CINXE.COM

<!DOCTYPE html> <html lang="en" xmlns:fb="http://www.facebook.com/2008/fbml" class="wf-loading"> <head prefix="og: https://ogp.me/ns# fb: https://ogp.me/ns/fb# academia: https://ogp.me/ns/fb/academia#"> <meta charset="utf-8"> <meta name=viewport content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"> <meta rel="search" type="application/opensearchdescription+xml" href="/open_search.xml" title="Academia.edu"> <title>History of Dress Research Papers - Academia.edu</title>  <link href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/favicon-production.ico" rel="shortcut icon" type="image/vnd.microsoft.icon"> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" sizes="57x57" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/apple-touch-icon-57x57.png"> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" sizes="60x60" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/apple-touch-icon-60x60.png"> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" sizes="72x72" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/apple-touch-icon-72x72.png"> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" sizes="76x76" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/apple-touch-icon-76x76.png"> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" sizes="114x114" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/apple-touch-icon-114x114.png"> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" sizes="120x120" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/apple-touch-icon-120x120.png"> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" sizes="144x144" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/apple-touch-icon-144x144.png"> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" sizes="152x152" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/apple-touch-icon-152x152.png"> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" sizes="180x180" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/apple-touch-icon-180x180.png"> <link rel="icon" type="image/png" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/favicon-32x32.png" sizes="32x32"> <link rel="icon" type="image/png" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/favicon-194x194.png" sizes="194x194"> <link rel="icon" type="image/png" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/favicon-96x96.png" sizes="96x96"> <link rel="icon" type="image/png" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/android-chrome-192x192.png" sizes="192x192"> <link rel="icon" type="image/png" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/favicon-16x16.png" sizes="16x16"> <link rel="manifest" href="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/manifest.json"> <meta name="msapplication-TileColor" content="#2b5797"> <meta name="msapplication-TileImage" content="//a.academia-assets.com/images/favicons/mstile-144x144.png"> <meta name="theme-color" content="#ffffff"> <script> window.performance && window.performance.measure && window.performance.measure("Time To First Byte", "requestStart", "responseStart"); </script> <script> (function() { if (!window.URLSearchParams || !window.history || !window.history.replaceState) { return; } var searchParams = new URLSearchParams(window.location.search); var paramsToDelete = [ 'fs', 'sm', 'swp', 'iid', 'nbs', 'rcc', // related content category 'rcpos', // related content carousel position 'rcpg', // related carousel page 'rchid', // related content hit id 'f_ri', // research interest id, for SEO tracking 'f_fri', // featured research interest, for SEO tracking (param key without value) 'f_rid', // from research interest directory for SEO tracking 'f_loswp', // from research interest pills on LOSWP sidebar for SEO tracking 'rhid', // referrring hit id ]; if (paramsToDelete.every((key) => searchParams.get(key) === null)) { return; } paramsToDelete.forEach((key) => { searchParams.delete(key); }); var cleanUrl = new URL(window.location.href); cleanUrl.search = searchParams.toString(); history.replaceState({}, document.title, cleanUrl); })(); </script> <script async src="https://www.googletagmanager.com/gtag/js?id=G-5VKX33P2DS"></script> <script> window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-5VKX33P2DS', { cookie_domain: 'academia.edu', send_page_view: false, }); gtag('event', 'page_view', { 'controller': "by_tag", 'action': "show_one", 'controller_action': 'by_tag#show_one', 'logged_in': 'false', 'edge': 'unknown', // Send nil if there is no A/B test bucket, in case some records get logged // with missing data - that way we can distinguish between the two cases. // ab_test_bucket should be of the form <ab_test_name>:<bucket> 'ab_test_bucket': null, }) </script> <script type="text/javascript"> window.sendUserTiming = function(timingName) { if (!(window.performance && window.performance.measure)) return; var entries = window.performance.getEntriesByName(timingName, "measure"); if (entries.length !== 1) return; var timingValue = Math.round(entries[0].duration); gtag('event', 'timing_complete', { name: timingName, value: timingValue, event_category: 'User-centric', }); }; window.sendUserTiming("Time To First Byte"); </script> <meta name="csrf-param" content="authenticity_token" /> <meta name="csrf-token" content="6BSOS4Ee6B8RP4op9uRTFzTQscghD1sL+ronECnMcNZbL3FSNTW0rMoCJpFbcR6UHAUMaj8eEtOLkwPXtw8NIg==" /> <link href="/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?after=50%2C39001516" rel="next" /><link crossorigin="" href="https://fonts.gstatic.com/" rel="preconnect" /><link href="https://fonts.googleapis.com/css2?family=DM+Sans:ital,opsz,wght@0,9..40,100..1000;1,9..40,100..1000&family=Gupter:wght@400;500;700&family=IBM+Plex+Mono:wght@300;400&family=Material+Symbols+Outlined:opsz,wght,FILL,GRAD@20,400,0,0&display=swap" rel="stylesheet" /><link rel="stylesheet" media="all" href="//a.academia-assets.com/assets/design_system/common-10fa40af19d25203774df2d4a03b9b5771b45109c2304968038e88a81d1215c5.css" /> <meta name="description" content="View History of Dress Research Papers on Academia.edu for free." /> <meta name="google-site-verification" content="bKJMBZA7E43xhDOopFZkssMMkBRjvYERV-NaN4R6mrs" /> <script> var $controller_name = 'by_tag'; var $action_name = "show_one"; var $rails_env = 'production'; var $app_rev = '49879c2402910372f4abc62630a427bbe033d190'; var $domain = 'academia.edu'; var $app_host = "academia.edu"; var $asset_host = "academia-assets.com"; var $start_time = new Date().getTime(); var $recaptcha_key = "6LdxlRMTAAAAADnu_zyLhLg0YF9uACwz78shpjJB"; var $recaptcha_invisible_key = "6Lf3KHUUAAAAACggoMpmGJdQDtiyrjVlvGJ6BbAj"; var $disableClientRecordHit = false; </script> <script> window.Aedu = { hit_data: null }; window.Aedu.SiteStats = {"premium_universities_count":15276,"monthly_visitors":"112 million","monthly_visitor_count":112794806,"monthly_visitor_count_in_millions":112,"user_count":277195523,"paper_count":55203019,"paper_count_in_millions":55,"page_count":432000000,"page_count_in_millions":432,"pdf_count":16500000,"pdf_count_in_millions":16}; window.Aedu.serverRenderTime = new Date(1732476578000); window.Aedu.timeDifference = new Date().getTime() - 1732476578000; window.Aedu.isUsingCssV1 = false; window.Aedu.enableLocalization = true; window.Aedu.activateFullstory = false; window.Aedu.serviceAvailability = { status: {"attention_db":"on","bibliography_db":"on","contacts_db":"on","email_db":"on","indexability_db":"on","mentions_db":"on","news_db":"on","notifications_db":"on","offsite_mentions_db":"on","redshift":"on","redshift_exports_db":"on","related_works_db":"on","ring_db":"on","user_tests_db":"on"}, serviceEnabled: function(service) { return this.status[service] === "on"; }, readEnabled: function(service) { return this.serviceEnabled(service) || this.status[service] === "read_only"; }, }; window.Aedu.viewApmTrace = function() { // Check if x-apm-trace-id meta tag is set, and open the trace in APM // in a new window if it is. var apmTraceId = document.head.querySelector('meta[name="x-apm-trace-id"]'); if (apmTraceId) { var traceId = apmTraceId.content; // Use trace ID to construct URL, an example URL looks like: // https://app.datadoghq.com/apm/traces?query=trace_id%31298410148923562634 var apmUrl = 'https://app.datadoghq.com/apm/traces?query=trace_id%3A' + traceId; window.open(apmUrl, '_blank'); } }; </script>  <link href="https://fonts.googleapis.com/css?family=Roboto:100,100i,300,300i,400,400i,500,500i,700,700i,900,900i" rel="stylesheet"> <link href="//maxcdn.bootstrapcdn.com/font-awesome/4.3.0/css/font-awesome.min.css" rel="stylesheet"> <link rel="stylesheet" media="all" href="//a.academia-assets.com/assets/libraries-a9675dcb01ec4ef6aa807ba772c7a5a00c1820d3ff661c1038a20f80d06bb4e4.css" /> <link rel="stylesheet" media="all" href="//a.academia-assets.com/assets/academia-296162c7af6fd81dcdd76f1a94f1fad04fb5f647401337d136fe8b68742170b1.css" /> <link rel="stylesheet" media="all" href="//a.academia-assets.com/assets/design_system_legacy-056a9113b9a0f5343d013b29ee1929d5a18be35fdcdceb616600b4db8bd20054.css" /> <script src="//a.academia-assets.com/assets/webpack_bundles/runtime-bundle-005434038af4252ca37c527588411a3d6a0eabb5f727fac83f8bbe7fd88d93bb.js"></script> <script src="//a.academia-assets.com/assets/webpack_bundles/webpack_libraries_and_infrequently_changed.wjs-bundle-8d53a22151f33ab413d88fa1c02f979c3f8706d470fc1bced09852c72a9f3454.js"></script> <script src="//a.academia-assets.com/assets/webpack_bundles/core_webpack.wjs-bundle-f8fe82512740391f81c9e8cc48220144024b425b359b08194e316f4de070b9e8.js"></script> <script src="//a.academia-assets.com/assets/webpack_bundles/sentry.wjs-bundle-5fe03fddca915c8ba0f7edbe64c194308e8ce5abaed7bffe1255ff37549c4808.js"></script> <script> jade = window.jade || {}; jade.helpers = window.$h; jade._ = window._; </script>  <script id="tag-manager-head-root">(function(w,d,s,l,i){w[l]=w[l]||[];w[l].push({'gtm.start': new Date().getTime(),event:'gtm.js'});var f=d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0], j=d.createElement(s),dl=l!='dataLayer'?'&l='+l:'';j.async=true;j.src= 'https://www.googletagmanager.com/gtm.js?id='+i+dl;f.parentNode.insertBefore(j,f); })(window,document,'script','dataLayer_old','GTM-5G9JF7Z');</script>  <script> window.gptadslots = []; window.googletag = window.googletag || {}; window.googletag.cmd = window.googletag.cmd || []; </script> <script type="text/javascript"> // TODO(jacob): This should be defined, may be rare load order problem. // Checking if null is just a quick fix, will default to en if unset. // Better fix is to run this immedietely after I18n is set. if (window.I18n != null) { I18n.defaultLocale = "en"; I18n.locale = "en"; I18n.fallbacks = true; } </script> <link rel="canonical" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress" /> </head>   <body class='c-by_tag a-show_one logged_out u-bgColorWhite'>  <div id="fb-root"></div><script>window.fbAsyncInit = function() { FB.init({ appId: "2369844204", version: "v8.0", status: true, cookie: true, xfbml: true }); // Additional initialization code. if (window.InitFacebook) { // facebook.ts already loaded, set it up. window.InitFacebook(); } else { // Set a flag for facebook.ts to find when it loads. window.academiaAuthReadyFacebook = true; } };</script><script>window.fbAsyncLoad = function() { // Protection against double calling of this function if (window.FB) { return; } (function(d, s, id){ var js, fjs = d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0]; if (d.getElementById(id)) {return;} js = d.createElement(s); js.id = id; js.src = "//connect.facebook.net/en_US/sdk.js"; fjs.parentNode.insertBefore(js, fjs); }(document, 'script', 'facebook-jssdk')); } if (!window.defer_facebook) { // Autoload if not deferred window.fbAsyncLoad(); } else { // Defer loading by 5 seconds setTimeout(function() { window.fbAsyncLoad(); }, 5000); }</script> <div id="google-root"></div><script>window.loadGoogle = function() { if (window.InitGoogle) { // google.ts already loaded, set it up. window.InitGoogle("331998490334-rsn3chp12mbkiqhl6e7lu2q0mlbu0f1b"); } else { // Set a flag for google.ts to use when it loads. window.GoogleClientID = "331998490334-rsn3chp12mbkiqhl6e7lu2q0mlbu0f1b"; } };</script><script>window.googleAsyncLoad = function() { // Protection against double calling of this function (function(d) { var js; var id = 'google-jssdk'; var ref = d.getElementsByTagName('script')[0]; if (d.getElementById(id)) { return; } js = d.createElement('script'); js.id = id; js.async = true; js.onload = loadGoogle; js.src = "https://accounts.google.com/gsi/client" ref.parentNode.insertBefore(js, ref); }(document)); } if (!window.defer_google) { // Autoload if not deferred window.googleAsyncLoad(); } else { // Defer loading by 5 seconds setTimeout(function() { window.googleAsyncLoad(); }, 5000); }</script> <div id="tag-manager-body-root">  <noscript><iframe src="https://www.googletagmanager.com/ns.html?id=GTM-5G9JF7Z" height="0" width="0" style="display:none;visibility:hidden"></iframe></noscript>   <script> window.addEventListener('load', function() { if (document.querySelector('input[name="commit"]')) { document.querySelector('input[name="commit"]').addEventListener('click', function() { gtag('event', 'click', { event_category: 'button', event_label: 'Log In' }) }) } }); </script> </div> <script>var _comscore = _comscore || []; _comscore.push({ c1: "2", c2: "26766707" }); (function() { var s = document.createElement("script"), el = document.getElementsByTagName("script")[0]; s.async = true; s.src = (document.location.protocol == "https:" ? "https://sb" : "http://b") + ".scorecardresearch.com/beacon.js"; el.parentNode.insertBefore(s, el); })();</script><img src="https://sb.scorecardresearch.com/p?c1=2&c2=26766707&cv=2.0&cj=1" style="position: absolute; visibility: hidden" /> <div id='react-modal'></div> <div class='DesignSystem'> <a class='u-showOnFocus' href='#site'> Skip to main content </a> </div> <div id="upgrade_ie_banner" style="display: none;"><p>Academia.edu no longer supports Internet Explorer.</p><p>To browse Academia.edu and the wider internet faster and more securely, please take a few seconds to <a href="https://www.academia.edu/upgrade-browser">upgrade your browser</a>.</p></div><script>// Show this banner for all versions of IE if (!!window.MSInputMethodContext || /(MSIE)/.test(navigator.userAgent)) { document.getElementById('upgrade_ie_banner').style.display = 'block'; }</script> <div class="DesignSystem bootstrap ShrinkableNav no-sm no-md"><div class="navbar navbar-default main-header"><div class="container-wrapper" id="main-header-container"><div class="container"><div class="navbar-header"><div class="nav-left-wrapper u-mt0x"><div class="nav-logo"><a data-main-header-link-target="logo_home" href="https://www.academia.edu/"><img class="visible-xs-inline-block" style="height: 24px;" alt="Academia.edu" src="//a.academia-assets.com/images/academia-logo-redesign-2015-A.svg" width="24" height="24" /><img width="145.2" height="18" class="hidden-xs" style="height: 24px;" alt="Academia.edu" src="//a.academia-assets.com/images/academia-logo-redesign-2015.svg" /></a></div><div class="nav-search"><div class="SiteSearch-wrapper select2-no-default-pills"><form class="js-SiteSearch-form DesignSystem" action="https://www.academia.edu/search" accept-charset="UTF-8" method="get"><input name="utf8" type="hidden" value="✓" autocomplete="off" /><i class="SiteSearch-icon fa fa-search u-fw700 u-positionAbsolute u-tcGrayDark"></i><input class="js-SiteSearch-form-input SiteSearch-form-input form-control" data-main-header-click-target="search_input" name="q" placeholder="Search" type="text" value="" /></form></div></div></div><div class="nav-right-wrapper pull-right"><ul class="NavLinks js-main-nav list-unstyled"><li class="NavLinks-link"><a class="js-header-login-url Button Button--inverseGray Button--sm u-mb4x" id="nav_log_in" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/login">Log In</a></li><li class="NavLinks-link u-p0x"><a class="Button Button--inverseGray Button--sm u-mb4x" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/signup">Sign Up</a></li></ul><button class="hidden-lg hidden-md hidden-sm u-ml4x navbar-toggle collapsed" data-target=".js-mobile-header-links" data-toggle="collapse" type="button"><span class="icon-bar"></span><span class="icon-bar"></span><span class="icon-bar"></span></button></div></div><div class="collapse navbar-collapse js-mobile-header-links"><ul class="nav navbar-nav"><li class="u-borderColorGrayLight u-borderBottom1"><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/login">Log In</a></li><li class="u-borderColorGrayLight u-borderBottom1"><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/signup">Sign Up</a></li><li class="u-borderColorGrayLight u-borderBottom1 js-mobile-nav-expand-trigger"><a href="#">more&nbsp<span class="caret"></span></a></li><li><ul class="js-mobile-nav-expand-section nav navbar-nav u-m0x collapse"><li class="u-borderColorGrayLight u-borderBottom1"><a rel="false" href="https://www.academia.edu/about">About</a></li><li class="u-borderColorGrayLight u-borderBottom1"><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/press">Press</a></li><li class="u-borderColorGrayLight u-borderBottom1"><a rel="nofollow" href="https://medium.com/@academia">Blog</a></li><li class="u-borderColorGrayLight u-borderBottom1"><a rel="false" href="https://www.academia.edu/documents">Papers</a></li><li class="u-borderColorGrayLight u-borderBottom1"><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/terms">Terms</a></li><li class="u-borderColorGrayLight u-borderBottom1"><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/privacy">Privacy</a></li><li class="u-borderColorGrayLight u-borderBottom1"><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/copyright">Copyright</a></li><li class="u-borderColorGrayLight u-borderBottom1"><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/hiring"><i class="fa fa-briefcase"></i> We're Hiring!</a></li><li class="u-borderColorGrayLight u-borderBottom1"><a rel="nofollow" href="https://support.academia.edu/"><i class="fa fa-question-circle"></i> Help Center</a></li><li class="js-mobile-nav-collapse-trigger u-borderColorGrayLight u-borderBottom1 dropup" style="display:none"><a href="#">less&nbsp<span class="caret"></span></a></li></ul></li></ul></div></div></div><script>(function(){ var $moreLink = $(".js-mobile-nav-expand-trigger"); var $lessLink = $(".js-mobile-nav-collapse-trigger"); var $section = $('.js-mobile-nav-expand-section'); $moreLink.click(function(ev){ ev.preventDefault(); $moreLink.hide(); $lessLink.show(); $section.collapse('show'); }); $lessLink.click(function(ev){ ev.preventDefault(); $moreLink.show(); $lessLink.hide(); $section.collapse('hide'); }); })() if ($a.is_logged_in() || false) { new Aedu.NavigationController({ el: '.js-main-nav', showHighlightedNotification: false }); } else { $(".js-header-login-url").attr("href", $a.loginUrlWithRedirect()); } Aedu.autocompleteSearch = new AutocompleteSearch({el: '.js-SiteSearch-form'});</script></div></div> <div id='site' class='fixed'> <div id="content" class="clearfix"> <script>document.addEventListener('DOMContentLoaded', function(){ var $dismissible = $(".dismissible_banner"); $dismissible.click(function(ev) { $dismissible.hide(); }); });</script> <div class="DesignSystem" style="margin-top:-40px"><div class="PageHeader"><div class="container"><div class="row"><style type="text/css">.sor-abstract { display: -webkit-box; overflow: hidden; text-overflow: ellipsis; -webkit-line-clamp: 3; -webkit-box-orient: vertical; }</style><div class="col-xs-12 clearfix"><div class="u-floatLeft"><h1 class="PageHeader-title u-m0x u-fs30">History of Dress</h1><div class="u-tcGrayDark">10,956 Followers</div><div class="u-tcGrayDark u-mt2x">Recent papers in <b>History of Dress</b></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="TabbedNavigation"><div class="container"><div class="row"><div class="col-xs-12 clearfix"><ul class="nav u-m0x u-p0x list-inline u-displayFlex"><li class="active"><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">Top Papers</a></li><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress/MostCited">Most Cited Papers</a></li><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress/MostDownloaded">Most Downloaded Papers</a></li><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress/MostRecent">Newest Papers</a></li><li><a class="" href="https://www.academia.edu/People/History_of_Dress">People</a></li></ul></div><style type="text/css">ul.nav{flex-direction:row}@media(max-width: 567px){ul.nav{flex-direction:column}.TabbedNavigation li{max-width:100%}.TabbedNavigation li.active{background-color:var(--background-grey, #dddde2)}.TabbedNavigation li.active:before,.TabbedNavigation li.active:after{display:none}}</style></div></div></div><div class="container"><div class="row"><div class="col-xs-12"><div class="u-displayFlex"><div class="u-flexGrow1"><div class="works"><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_14995373 coauthored" data-work_id="14995373" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/14995373/_He_is_of_no_account_if_he_have_not_a_velvet_or_taffeta_hat_A_survey_of_excavated_sixteenth_century_knitted_caps">"He is of no account... if he have not a velvet or taffeta hat": A survey of excavated sixteenth-century knitted caps</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">"There are relatively few garments from the sixteenth century available for study and those that are have been well researched and reported (for example, Arnold, 1988, 1989 and 2008), and tend to belong to dress collections. This paper... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_14995373" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">"There are relatively few garments from the sixteenth century available for study and those that are have been well researched and reported (for example, Arnold, 1988, 1989 and 2008), and tend to belong to dress collections. This paper presents new insights into the largely overlooked and surprising number of extant examples of knitted caps from the Tudor era from archaeological contexts. <br /> <br />A total of 104 knitted items of sixteenth century headwear were identified in European collections as far flung as Eire and Croatia. Some were preserved in peat bogs, others shipwrecked and many more unearthed during building work in cities. The caps and their linings show a surprising homogeneity, given that knitting patterns do not appear to have been circulated until later eras and most cappers learned their trade by eye and experience . The caps were surveyed between 2010 and 2013, using new methods of collaborative investigation to draw the disparate groups together, and modern approaches to glean new information from objects that had not been systematically analysed, although they had been in museum collections for a long time. <br /> <br />The paper concentrates on the 53 examples at the Museum of London, which are now published online, all from early urban archaeological digs in the City of London. They represent a very well-preserved specimen collection sadly without detailed provenance and yet revealing a range of techniques, yarns, colours, finishing quality, and knitting tensions. Comparison with other extant examples provides clear guidance on different constructions with typical features and techniques from which clear classifications were deduced. The paper also looks at the value of using a large group of excavated garments as an intersection between methods used to analyse earlier archaeological textiles, and early modern clothing held in dress collections. <br /> <br />This paper aims to demonstrate what can be learned from these unusual surviving specimens of lower-class sixteenth century dress and suggest what more could be discovered through applying current techniques of fibre and dye analysis.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/14995373" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="1aa02ebe72ac92f05ff43f833fc0a531" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":103384633,"asset_id":14995373,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/103384633/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="2605531" href="https://independent.academia.edu/JaneMalcolmDavies">Jane Malcolm-Davies</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="2605531" type="text/json">{"id":2605531,"first_name":"Jane","last_name":"Malcolm-Davies","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"JaneMalcolmDavies","display_name":"Jane Malcolm-Davies","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/JaneMalcolmDavies?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/2605531/822254/12291394/s65_jane.malcolm-davies.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-14995373">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-14995373"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://fitnyc.academia.edu/HilaryDavidson">Hilary Davidson</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-14995373'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-14995373').html(); } } new HoverPopover(popoverSettings); })();</script></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_14995373 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="14995373"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 14995373, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_14995373", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_14995373 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 14995373; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_14995373"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_14995373 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="14995373"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 14995373; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=14995373]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_14995373").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_14995373").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="14995373"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">6</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="392" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology">Archaeology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="392" type="text/json">{"id":392,"name":"Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1727" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History">Early Modern History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1727" type="text/json">{"id":1727,"name":"Early Modern History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10304" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Tudor_History">Tudor History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="10304" type="text/json">{"id":10304,"name":"Tudor History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Tudor_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=14995373]'), work: {"id":14995373,"title":"\"He is of no account... if he have not a velvet or taffeta hat\": A survey of excavated sixteenth-century knitted caps","created_at":"2015-08-17T18:15:10.345-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/14995373/_He_is_of_no_account_if_he_have_not_a_velvet_or_taffeta_hat_A_survey_of_excavated_sixteenth_century_knitted_caps?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_14995373","summary":"\"There are relatively few garments from the sixteenth century available for study and those that are have been well researched and reported (for example, Arnold, 1988, 1989 and 2008), and tend to belong to dress collections. This paper presents new insights into the largely overlooked and surprising number of extant examples of knitted caps from the Tudor era from archaeological contexts. \r\n\r\nA total of 104 knitted items of sixteenth century headwear were identified in European collections as far flung as Eire and Croatia. Some were preserved in peat bogs, others shipwrecked and many more unearthed during building work in cities. The caps and their linings show a surprising homogeneity, given that knitting patterns do not appear to have been circulated until later eras and most cappers learned their trade by eye and experience . The caps were surveyed between 2010 and 2013, using new methods of collaborative investigation to draw the disparate groups together, and modern approaches to glean new information from objects that had not been systematically analysed, although they had been in museum collections for a long time. \r\n\r\nThe paper concentrates on the 53 examples at the Museum of London, which are now published online, all from early urban archaeological digs in the City of London. They represent a very well-preserved specimen collection sadly without detailed provenance and yet revealing a range of techniques, yarns, colours, finishing quality, and knitting tensions. Comparison with other extant examples provides clear guidance on different constructions with typical features and techniques from which clear classifications were deduced. The paper also looks at the value of using a large group of excavated garments as an intersection between methods used to analyse earlier archaeological textiles, and early modern clothing held in dress collections. \r\n\r\nThis paper aims to demonstrate what can be learned from these unusual surviving specimens of lower-class sixteenth century dress and suggest what more could be discovered through applying current techniques of fibre and dye analysis. ","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":103384633,"asset_id":14995373,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":2605531,"first_name":"Jane","last_name":"Malcolm-Davies","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"JaneMalcolmDavies","display_name":"Jane Malcolm-Davies","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/JaneMalcolmDavies?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/2605531/822254/12291394/s65_jane.malcolm-davies.jpg"},{"id":707458,"first_name":"Hilary","last_name":"Davidson","domain_name":"fitnyc","page_name":"HilaryDavidson","display_name":"Hilary Davidson","profile_url":"https://fitnyc.academia.edu/HilaryDavidson?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/707458/892789/26849418/s65_hilary.davidson.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":392,"name":"Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1727,"name":"Early Modern History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":10304,"name":"Tudor History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Tudor_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":118681,"name":"Archaeological textiles and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeological_textiles_and_clothing?f_ri=1437"},{"id":163338,"name":"Knitting History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Knitting_History?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_43235812" data-work_id="43235812" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/43235812/Fashion_Theology_Baylor_University_Press_2020_">Fashion Theology (Baylor University Press, 2020)</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">What is fashion? Where does it come from? Why has it come to permeate modern life? In the last half century, questions like these have drawn serious academic reflection, resulting in a new field of research-fashion studies-and generating... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_43235812" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">What is fashion? Where does it come from? Why has it come to permeate modern life? In the last half century, questions like these have drawn serious academic reflection, resulting in a new field of research-fashion studies-and generating a rich multidisciplinary discussion. Yet theology's voice has been conspicuously absent in this conversation. The time has finally come for theology to break her silence and join this decades-long conversation. Fashion Theology is the first of its kind: a serious and long-overdue account of the dynamic relationship between theology and fashion. Chronicling the epic journey from ancient Christian sources to current developments in fashion studies, cultural theologian Robert Covolo navigates the rich history of Christian thought as well as recent political, social, aesthetic, literary, and performance theory. Far from mere disparity or quick resolution, Covolo demonstrates that fashion and theology inhabit a mutual terrain that has, until recently, scarcely been imagined. Covolo retraces the way theologians have taken up fashion across history, unveiling how Christian thinkers have been fascinated with fashion well before the academy's current focus, and bringing these insights into the conversation with fashion itself: the logic by which fashion operates, how fashion shapes our world, and the way fashion imperceptibly molds our personal lives. Within fashion's realms reside some of life's greatest challenges: the foundations of political power, the basis for social order, the nature of aesthetics, how we inhabit time, and the means by which we tell stories about our lives-challenges, it turns out, that theologians also explore. Fashion favors the bold; theology demands humility. Holding the two together, Fashion Theology trailblazes an interdisciplinary path informed by a thoughtful engagement with the Christian witness. For those traversing this spectacle of unexpected crossroads and hotly contested terrain, the promise of fashion theology awaits with its myriad unexplored vistas.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/43235812" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="5248a84ae13f19df969e38a950bae5fe" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":63505460,"asset_id":43235812,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/63505460/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="442425" href="https://vu-nl.academia.edu/RobertCovolo">Robert Covolo</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="442425" type="text/json">{"id":442425,"first_name":"Robert","last_name":"Covolo","domain_name":"vu-nl","page_name":"RobertCovolo","display_name":"Robert Covolo","profile_url":"https://vu-nl.academia.edu/RobertCovolo?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/442425/142385/34398766/s65_robert.covolo.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_43235812 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="43235812"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 43235812, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_43235812", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_43235812 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 43235812; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_43235812"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_43235812 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="43235812"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 43235812; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=43235812]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_43235812").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_43235812").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="43235812"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">20</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10467" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Public_Sphere">Public Sphere</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="10467" type="text/json">{"id":10467,"name":"Public Sphere","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Public_Sphere?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=43235812]'), work: {"id":43235812,"title":"Fashion Theology (Baylor University Press, 2020)","created_at":"2020-06-02T09:06:25.522-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/43235812/Fashion_Theology_Baylor_University_Press_2020_?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_43235812","summary":"What is fashion? Where does it come from? Why has it come to permeate modern life? In the last half century, questions like these have drawn serious academic reflection, resulting in a new field of research-fashion studies-and generating a rich multidisciplinary discussion. Yet theology's voice has been conspicuously absent in this conversation. The time has finally come for theology to break her silence and join this decades-long conversation. Fashion Theology is the first of its kind: a serious and long-overdue account of the dynamic relationship between theology and fashion. Chronicling the epic journey from ancient Christian sources to current developments in fashion studies, cultural theologian Robert Covolo navigates the rich history of Christian thought as well as recent political, social, aesthetic, literary, and performance theory. Far from mere disparity or quick resolution, Covolo demonstrates that fashion and theology inhabit a mutual terrain that has, until recently, scarcely been imagined. Covolo retraces the way theologians have taken up fashion across history, unveiling how Christian thinkers have been fascinated with fashion well before the academy's current focus, and bringing these insights into the conversation with fashion itself: the logic by which fashion operates, how fashion shapes our world, and the way fashion imperceptibly molds our personal lives. Within fashion's realms reside some of life's greatest challenges: the foundations of political power, the basis for social order, the nature of aesthetics, how we inhabit time, and the means by which we tell stories about our lives-challenges, it turns out, that theologians also explore. Fashion favors the bold; theology demands humility. Holding the two together, Fashion Theology trailblazes an interdisciplinary path informed by a thoughtful engagement with the Christian witness. For those traversing this spectacle of unexpected crossroads and hotly contested terrain, the promise of fashion theology awaits with its myriad unexplored vistas.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":63505460,"asset_id":43235812,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":442425,"first_name":"Robert","last_name":"Covolo","domain_name":"vu-nl","page_name":"RobertCovolo","display_name":"Robert Covolo","profile_url":"https://vu-nl.academia.edu/RobertCovolo?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/442425/142385/34398766/s65_robert.covolo.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":10467,"name":"Public Sphere","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Public_Sphere?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":10857,"name":"Theological Aesthetics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Theological_Aesthetics?f_ri=1437"},{"id":11932,"name":"Secularization","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Secularization?f_ri=1437"},{"id":17964,"name":"Philosophy Of Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Philosophy_Of_Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437"},{"id":243140,"name":"Fashion and Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_Art?f_ri=1437"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":745779,"name":"Philosophy and Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Philosophy_and_Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1135850,"name":"Catholic Imagination","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Catholic_Imagination?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2025079,"name":"Fashion and philosophy","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_philosophy?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3442136,"name":"Protestant Theology and Aesthetics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Protestant_Theology_and_Aesthetics?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3626465,"name":"Fashion Theology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theology?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3671834,"name":"Calvin and Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Calvin_and_Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3671835,"name":"Aquinas and Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Aquinas_and_Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3671836,"name":"Kuyper and Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Kuyper_and_Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3671837,"name":"Augustine and Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Augustine_and_Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3671838,"name":"Barth and Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Barth_and_Fashion?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_36896628 coauthored" data-work_id="36896628" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/36896628/Dressed_for_Ritual_Dressed_for_Life_A_Migration_Period_Grave_from_Sande_in_Norway">Dressed for Ritual, Dressed for Life. A Migration-Period Grave from Sande in Norway</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">A RICHLY FURNISHED grave from the migration period in Norway is our starting point for a discussion of the impact of dress in life and death. The Sande farm is situated on the southern tip of Norway on the Lista peninsula, an area... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_36896628" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">A RICHLY FURNISHED grave from the migration period in Norway is our starting point for a discussion of the impact of dress in life and death. The Sande farm is situated on the southern tip of Norway on the Lista peninsula, an area renowned for its many rich finds from the migration period. A high-status grave from Sande in Vest-Agder was excavated in 2005 and was found to be lavishly equipped, not least in terms of jewellery items and dress fittings. Some remarkable textile remains were also preserved. The types of adornment and their position in the grave strongly suggest this was the burial of a woman, while the jewellery and textiles and their composition, style and appearance, all offer valuable information on the story of the individual and the dress code of the time. This article offers the first detailed exploration of this burial and its assemblage, and an in-depth discussion of the surviving textile fragments and dress equipment as evidence of a form of dress and display that may have operated in life and death.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/36896628" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="817f404f3865269345fc8a517e7d964c" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":56848771,"asset_id":36896628,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/56848771/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="1115776" href="https://uio.academia.edu/MarianneVedeler">Marianne Vedeler</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="1115776" type="text/json">{"id":1115776,"first_name":"Marianne","last_name":"Vedeler","domain_name":"uio","page_name":"MarianneVedeler","display_name":"Marianne Vedeler","profile_url":"https://uio.academia.edu/MarianneVedeler?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1115776/753361/936352/s65_marianne.vedeler.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-36896628">+2</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-36896628"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://uio.academia.edu/IngunnMaritR%C3%B8stad">Ingunn Marit Røstad</a></span></div><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://stavanger.academia.edu/ElnaSivKristoffersen">Elna Siv Kristoffersen</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-36896628'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-36896628').html(); } } new HoverPopover(popoverSettings); })();</script></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_36896628 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="36896628"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 36896628, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_36896628", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_36896628 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 36896628; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_36896628"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_36896628 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="36896628"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 36896628; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=36896628]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_36896628").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_36896628").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="36896628"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="392" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology">Archaeology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="392" type="text/json">{"id":392,"name":"Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1446" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History">Medieval History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1446" type="text/json">{"id":1446,"name":"Medieval History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2320" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles">Textiles</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="2320" type="text/json">{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=36896628]'), work: {"id":36896628,"title":"Dressed for Ritual, Dressed for Life. A Migration-Period Grave from Sande in Norway","created_at":"2018-06-22T10:40:55.755-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/36896628/Dressed_for_Ritual_Dressed_for_Life_A_Migration_Period_Grave_from_Sande_in_Norway?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_36896628","summary":"A RICHLY FURNISHED grave from the migration period in Norway is our starting point for a discussion of the impact of dress in life and death. The Sande farm is situated on the southern tip of Norway on the Lista peninsula, an area renowned for its many rich finds from the migration period. A high-status grave from Sande in Vest-Agder was excavated in 2005 and was found to be lavishly equipped, not least in terms of jewellery items and dress fittings. Some remarkable textile remains were also preserved. The types of adornment and their position in the grave strongly suggest this was the burial of a woman, while the jewellery and textiles and their composition, style and appearance, all offer valuable information on the story of the individual and the dress code of the time. This article offers the first detailed exploration of this burial and its assemblage, and an in-depth discussion of the surviving textile fragments and dress equipment as evidence of a form of dress and display that may have operated in life and death. ","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":56848771,"asset_id":36896628,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":1115776,"first_name":"Marianne","last_name":"Vedeler","domain_name":"uio","page_name":"MarianneVedeler","display_name":"Marianne Vedeler","profile_url":"https://uio.academia.edu/MarianneVedeler?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1115776/753361/936352/s65_marianne.vedeler.jpg"},{"id":37927800,"first_name":"Ingunn Marit","last_name":"Røstad","domain_name":"uio","page_name":"IngunnMaritRøstad","display_name":"Ingunn Marit Røstad","profile_url":"https://uio.academia.edu/IngunnMaritR%C3%B8stad?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/37927800/17850372/18024262/s65_ingunn_marit.r_stad.jpg"},{"id":33755265,"first_name":"Elna Siv","last_name":"Kristoffersen","domain_name":"stavanger","page_name":"ElnaSivKristoffersen","display_name":"Elna Siv Kristoffersen","profile_url":"https://stavanger.academia.edu/ElnaSivKristoffersen?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/33755265/51170411/55570021/s65_elna_siv.kristoffersen.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":392,"name":"Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1446,"name":"Medieval History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":7870,"name":"Medieval Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Archaeology?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_30702592" data-work_id="30702592" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/30702592/Gods_and_Garments_Textiles_in_Greek_Sanctuaries_in_the_7th_to_the_1st_Centuries_BC">Gods and Garments. Textiles in Greek Sanctuaries in the 7th to the 1st Centuries BC</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Textiles comprise a vast and wide category of material culture and constitute a crucial part of the ancient economy. Yet, studies of classical antiquity still often leave out this important category of material culture, partly due to the... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_30702592" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Textiles comprise a vast and wide category of material culture and constitute a crucial part of the ancient economy. Yet, studies of classical antiquity still often leave out this important category of material culture, partly due to the textiles themselves being only rarely preserved in the archaeological record. This neglect is also prevalent in scholarship on ancient Greek religion and ritual, although it is one of the most vibrant and rapidly developing branches of classical scholarship. The aim of the present enquiry is, therefore, to introduce textiles into the study of ancient Greek religion and thereby illuminate the roles textiles played in the performance of Greek ritual and their wider consequences.<br /> <br />Among the questions posed are how and where we can detect the use of textiles in the sanctuaries, and how they were used in rituals including their impact on the performance of these rituals and the people involved. Chapters centre on three themes: first, the dedication of textiles and clothing accessories in Greek sanctuaries is investigated through a thorough examination of the temple inventories. Second, the use of textiles to dress ancient cult images is explored. The examination of Hellenistic and Roman copies of ancient cult images from Asia Minor as well as depictions of cult images in vase-painting in collocation with written sources illustrates the existence of this particular ritual custom in ancient Greece. Third, the existence of dress codes in the Greek sanctuaries is addressed through an investigation of the existence of particular attire for ritual personnel as well as visitors to the sanctuaries with the help of iconography and written sources.<br /> <br />By merging the study of Greek religion and the study of textiles, the current study illustrates how textiles are, indeed, central materialisations of Greek cult, by reason of their capacity to accentuate and epitomize aspects of identity, spirituality, position in the religious system, by their forms as links between the maker, user, wearer, but also as key material agents in the performance of rituals and communication with the divine.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/30702592" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="f908b4ccd55c717d887bcf2177b6c3ae" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":52045476,"asset_id":30702592,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/52045476/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="341995" href="https://glyptoteket.academia.edu/CecilieBr%C3%B8ns">Cecilie Brøns</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="341995" type="text/json">{"id":341995,"first_name":"Cecilie","last_name":"Brøns","domain_name":"glyptoteket","page_name":"CecilieBrøns","display_name":"Cecilie Brøns","profile_url":"https://glyptoteket.academia.edu/CecilieBr%C3%B8ns?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/341995/235536/9102573/s65_cecilie.br_ns.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_30702592 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="30702592"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 30702592, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_30702592", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_30702592 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 30702592; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_30702592"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_30702592 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="30702592"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 30702592; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=30702592]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_30702592").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_30702592").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="30702592"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">10</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="393" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Classical_Archaeology">Classical Archaeology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="393" type="text/json">{"id":393,"name":"Classical Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Classical_Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10104" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ancient_Religion">Ancient Religion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10104" type="text/json">{"id":10104,"name":"Ancient Religion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ancient_Religion?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="18118" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ancient_Greek_Religion">Ancient Greek Religion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="18118" type="text/json">{"id":18118,"name":"Ancient Greek Religion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ancient_Greek_Religion?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=30702592]'), work: {"id":30702592,"title":"Gods and Garments. Textiles in Greek Sanctuaries in the 7th to the 1st Centuries BC","created_at":"2017-01-02T02:15:36.316-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/30702592/Gods_and_Garments_Textiles_in_Greek_Sanctuaries_in_the_7th_to_the_1st_Centuries_BC?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_30702592","summary":"\nTextiles comprise a vast and wide category of material culture and constitute a crucial part of the ancient economy. Yet, studies of classical antiquity still often leave out this important category of material culture, partly due to the textiles themselves being only rarely preserved in the archaeological record. This neglect is also prevalent in scholarship on ancient Greek religion and ritual, although it is one of the most vibrant and rapidly developing branches of classical scholarship. The aim of the present enquiry is, therefore, to introduce textiles into the study of ancient Greek religion and thereby illuminate the roles textiles played in the performance of Greek ritual and their wider consequences.\n \nAmong the questions posed are how and where we can detect the use of textiles in the sanctuaries, and how they were used in rituals including their impact on the performance of these rituals and the people involved. Chapters centre on three themes: first, the dedication of textiles and clothing accessories in Greek sanctuaries is investigated through a thorough examination of the temple inventories. Second, the use of textiles to dress ancient cult images is explored. The examination of Hellenistic and Roman copies of ancient cult images from Asia Minor as well as depictions of cult images in vase-painting in collocation with written sources illustrates the existence of this particular ritual custom in ancient Greece. Third, the existence of dress codes in the Greek sanctuaries is addressed through an investigation of the existence of particular attire for ritual personnel as well as visitors to the sanctuaries with the help of iconography and written sources.\n \nBy merging the study of Greek religion and the study of textiles, the current study illustrates how textiles are, indeed, central materialisations of Greek cult, by reason of their capacity to accentuate and epitomize aspects of identity, spirituality, position in the religious system, by their forms as links between the maker, user, wearer, but also as key material agents in the performance of rituals and communication with the divine.\n","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":52045476,"asset_id":30702592,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":341995,"first_name":"Cecilie","last_name":"Brøns","domain_name":"glyptoteket","page_name":"CecilieBrøns","display_name":"Cecilie Brøns","profile_url":"https://glyptoteket.academia.edu/CecilieBr%C3%B8ns?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/341995/235536/9102573/s65_cecilie.br_ns.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":393,"name":"Classical Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Classical_Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":10104,"name":"Ancient Religion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ancient_Religion?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":18118,"name":"Ancient Greek Religion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ancient_Greek_Religion?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":27026,"name":"Ancient Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ancient_Textiles?f_ri=1437"},{"id":58756,"name":"Greek sanctuaries","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Greek_sanctuaries?f_ri=1437"},{"id":354018,"name":"Votive offerings","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Votive_offerings?f_ri=1437"},{"id":414909,"name":"Ancient Greek Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ancient_Greek_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":548826,"name":"Dress codes","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_codes?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1428650,"name":"Clothing and Dress in the Ancient World","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothing_and_Dress_in_the_Ancient_World?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_35477391" data-work_id="35477391" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/35477391/_Adorning_the_Buddhas_The_Ceremonial_Regalia_of_the_Da%C5%9Ba_Sthavira_%C4%80jus_from_Kw%C4%81_Bah%C4%81_Nepal_">"Adorning the Buddhas: The Ceremonial Regalia of the Daśa Sthavira Ājus from Kwā Bahā, Nepal"</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Membership in Newar Buddhist monasteries includes individuals from the Vajrācārya and Śākya castes who serve as Tantric Buddhist householder monks. Of this population, the ten eldest members of each monastery are known as the Daśa... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_35477391" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Membership in Newar Buddhist monasteries includes individuals from the Vajrācārya and Śākya castes who serve as Tantric Buddhist householder monks. Of this population, the ten eldest members of each monastery are known as the Daśa Sthavira Ājus (Ten Elders of the Highest Esteem). Because of their position, these Ājus are the ritual specialists for their communities and serve as exemplars of the monastic ideal in Newar society. This paper explores the ways in which Newar Buddhists at the Kwā Bahā monastic complex in Patan, Nepal, utilize ceremonial dress to reinforce their Buddhist identity and publicly reaffirm their ancient Buddhist heritage in Nepal. This study, the first to analyze the Ājus’ ceremonial regalia, provides an analysis of the garments, headdresses, and ornaments worn by these figures to explain the ways in which dress embeds Buddhist iconographic symbolism into Newar visual culture. Additionally, this paper demonstrates that the ritual veneration of the Ājus gives their regalia agency, reinforcing their public, ritual role as living embodiments of buddhahood. [PDF of article available in link]</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/35477391" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="0a5cdef847cf00df9cefd4a2134b70d8" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":55762305,"asset_id":35477391,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/55762305/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="280153" href="https://scad.academia.edu/KerryLucindaBrown">Kerry Lucinda Brown</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="280153" type="text/json">{"id":280153,"first_name":"Kerry Lucinda","last_name":"Brown","domain_name":"scad","page_name":"KerryLucindaBrown","display_name":"Kerry Lucinda Brown","profile_url":"https://scad.academia.edu/KerryLucindaBrown?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/280153/57392/4339091/s65_kerry_lucinda.brown.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_35477391 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="35477391"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 35477391, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_35477391", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_35477391 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 35477391; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_35477391"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_35477391 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="35477391"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 35477391; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=35477391]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_35477391").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_35477391").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="35477391"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">23</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="113" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Buddhism">Buddhism</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="113" type="text/json">{"id":113,"name":"Buddhism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Buddhism?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="915" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History">Art History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="915" type="text/json">{"id":915,"name":"Art History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2132" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Heritage">Cultural Heritage</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="2132" type="text/json">{"id":2132,"name":"Cultural Heritage","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Heritage?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=35477391]'), work: {"id":35477391,"title":"\"Adorning the Buddhas: The Ceremonial Regalia of the Daśa Sthavira Ājus from Kwā Bahā, Nepal\"","created_at":"2017-12-20T05:54:37.665-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/35477391/_Adorning_the_Buddhas_The_Ceremonial_Regalia_of_the_Da%C5%9Ba_Sthavira_%C4%80jus_from_Kw%C4%81_Bah%C4%81_Nepal_?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_35477391","summary":"Membership in Newar Buddhist monasteries includes individuals from the Vajrācārya and Śākya castes who serve as Tantric Buddhist householder monks. Of this population, the ten eldest members of each monastery are known as the Daśa Sthavira Ājus (Ten Elders of the Highest Esteem). Because of their position, these Ājus are the ritual specialists for their communities and serve as exemplars of the monastic ideal in Newar society. This paper explores the ways in which Newar Buddhists at the Kwā Bahā monastic complex in Patan, Nepal, utilize ceremonial dress to reinforce their Buddhist identity and publicly reaffirm their ancient Buddhist heritage in Nepal. This study, the first to analyze the Ājus’ ceremonial regalia, provides an analysis of the garments, headdresses, and ornaments worn by these figures to explain the ways in which dress embeds Buddhist iconographic symbolism into Newar visual culture. Additionally, this paper demonstrates that the ritual veneration of the Ājus gives their regalia agency, reinforcing their public, ritual role as living embodiments of buddhahood. [PDF of article available in link]","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":55762305,"asset_id":35477391,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":280153,"first_name":"Kerry Lucinda","last_name":"Brown","domain_name":"scad","page_name":"KerryLucindaBrown","display_name":"Kerry Lucinda Brown","profile_url":"https://scad.academia.edu/KerryLucindaBrown?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/280153/57392/4339091/s65_kerry_lucinda.brown.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":113,"name":"Buddhism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Buddhism?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":915,"name":"Art History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2132,"name":"Cultural Heritage","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Heritage?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2337,"name":"Performance Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Performance_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2906,"name":"Buddhist Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Buddhist_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3499,"name":"Social and Cultural Anthropology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Social_and_Cultural_Anthropology?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3558,"name":"South Asian Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/South_Asian_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":6713,"name":"Tantric Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Tantric_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":6718,"name":"Newar Buddhism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Newar_Buddhism?f_ri=1437"},{"id":15945,"name":"Himalayan Civilization-Nepal","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Himalayan_Civilization-Nepal?f_ri=1437"},{"id":16946,"name":"Nepal","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Nepal?f_ri=1437"},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437"},{"id":30535,"name":"Site-Specific Art and Performance","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Site-Specific_Art_and_Performance?f_ri=1437"},{"id":111232,"name":"Tantric Buddhism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Tantric_Buddhism?f_ri=1437"},{"id":232639,"name":"Newars","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Newars?f_ri=1437"},{"id":257250,"name":"Mahayana Buddhism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Mahayana_Buddhism?f_ri=1437"},{"id":274425,"name":"Nepalese Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Nepalese_Art?f_ri=1437"},{"id":566957,"name":"Art and Ritual","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_and_Ritual?f_ri=1437"},{"id":612900,"name":"Himalayan studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Himalayan_studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1048526,"name":"Newar Rituals","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Newar_Rituals?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1324466,"name":"Buddhism and Himalayan Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Buddhism_and_Himalayan_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2856256,"name":"Regalia","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Regalia?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_26599058" data-work_id="26599058" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/26599058/Un_Abito_per_Osanna_in_IN_GLORIA_1515_2015_OSANNA_ANDREASI_D_A_M_A_N_T_O_V_A_">Un Abito per Osanna, in "IN GLORIA 1515 -2015. OSANNA ANDREASI D A M A N T O V A "</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Elisa Tosi Brandi e Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols presentano uno studio relativo ad uno dei più antichi abiti alla moda rinvenuto in Italia. Si tratta di una veste femminile appartenuta alla beata Osanna Andreasi da Mantova, consigliera di... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_26599058" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Elisa Tosi Brandi e Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols presentano uno studio relativo ad uno dei più antichi abiti alla moda rinvenuto in Italia. Si tratta di una veste femminile appartenuta alla beata Osanna Andreasi da Mantova, consigliera di Isabella d'Este e "santa di corte" dei Gonzaga, risalente alla seconda metà del XV secolo. <br />Le due autrici hanno studiato insieme il caso, precisamente Elisa Tosi Brandi si è occupata del contesto storico e sociale, Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols dello studio della fonte materiale e della sua ricostruzione ora esposta presso Casa Andreasi. <br /> <br />Elisa Tosi Brandi and Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols present a study of the oldest trendy clothes found in Italy. It is a woman's dress belonged to the Blessed Osanna Andreasi from Mantua, counselor of the Gonzaga court, dating from the second half of the fifteenth century. <br />The two authors have studied together the case, namely Elisa Tosi Brandi took over the historical and social context, Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols the study of the material source and its reconstruction, now display at Casa Andreasi.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/26599058" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="3f8c0646d16abda93e9c8a2ddae07a1d" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":46886382,"asset_id":26599058,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/46886382/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="17453324" href="https://unibo.academia.edu/ElisaTosiBrandi">Elisa Tosi Brandi</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="17453324" type="text/json">{"id":17453324,"first_name":"Elisa","last_name":"Tosi Brandi","domain_name":"unibo","page_name":"ElisaTosiBrandi","display_name":"Elisa Tosi Brandi","profile_url":"https://unibo.academia.edu/ElisaTosiBrandi?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/17453324/8971434/19368450/s65_elisa.tosi_brandi.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_26599058 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="26599058"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 26599058, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_26599058", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_26599058 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 26599058; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_26599058"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_26599058 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="26599058"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 26599058; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=26599058]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_26599058").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_26599058").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="26599058"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">12</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1446" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History">Medieval History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1446" type="text/json">{"id":1446,"name":"Medieval History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1650" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Dress">Medieval Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1650" type="text/json">{"id":1650,"name":"Medieval Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1727" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History">Early Modern History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1727" type="text/json">{"id":1727,"name":"Early Modern History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=26599058]'), work: {"id":26599058,"title":"Un Abito per Osanna, in \"IN GLORIA 1515 -2015. OSANNA ANDREASI D A M A N T O V A \"","created_at":"2016-06-29T06:44:06.153-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/26599058/Un_Abito_per_Osanna_in_IN_GLORIA_1515_2015_OSANNA_ANDREASI_D_A_M_A_N_T_O_V_A_?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_26599058","summary":"Elisa Tosi Brandi e Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols presentano uno studio relativo ad uno dei più antichi abiti alla moda rinvenuto in Italia. Si tratta di una veste femminile appartenuta alla beata Osanna Andreasi da Mantova, consigliera di Isabella d'Este e \"santa di corte\" dei Gonzaga, risalente alla seconda metà del XV secolo.\r\nLe due autrici hanno studiato insieme il caso, precisamente Elisa Tosi Brandi si è occupata del contesto storico e sociale, Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols dello studio della fonte materiale e della sua ricostruzione ora esposta presso Casa Andreasi.\r\n\r\nElisa Tosi Brandi and Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols present a study of the oldest trendy clothes found in Italy. It is a woman's dress belonged to the Blessed Osanna Andreasi from Mantua, counselor of the Gonzaga court, dating from the second half of the fifteenth century.\r\nThe two authors have studied together the case, namely Elisa Tosi Brandi took over the historical and social context, Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols the study of the material source and its reconstruction, now display at Casa Andreasi.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":46886382,"asset_id":26599058,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":17453324,"first_name":"Elisa","last_name":"Tosi Brandi","domain_name":"unibo","page_name":"ElisaTosiBrandi","display_name":"Elisa Tosi Brandi","profile_url":"https://unibo.academia.edu/ElisaTosiBrandi?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/17453324/8971434/19368450/s65_elisa.tosi_brandi.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1446,"name":"Medieval History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1650,"name":"Medieval Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1727,"name":"Early Modern History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2853,"name":"Medieval Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":13658,"name":"Dress and the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body?f_ri=1437"},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437"},{"id":25719,"name":"Religious History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Religious_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":86962,"name":"Fashion,textile and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_textile_and_clothing?f_ri=1437"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":267812,"name":"Medieval Textiles and Clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Textiles_and_Clothing?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2417113,"name":"Santi domenicani","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Santi_domenicani?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_36050084" data-work_id="36050084" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/36050084/PhD_dissertation_The_Culture_of_Dress_History_in_France_The_Past_in_Fashion_1814_1900">PhD dissertation: The Culture of Dress History in France: The Past in Fashion, 1814-1900.</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">"The Culture of Dress History in France: The Past in Fashion, 1814-1900," studies the role of historic dress and dress history in creating knowledge about the past in nineteenth century France. This research examined how the practice of... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_36050084" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">"The Culture of Dress History in France: The Past in Fashion, 1814-1900," studies the role of historic dress and dress history in creating knowledge about the past in nineteenth century France. This research examined how the practice of writing about, collecting, exhibiting, making, and representing historic and historicizing dress helped the French visualize their past. The conceptual questions raised by looking at the way that people observed and used historic artifacts not only expands the history of studying artifacts but also contributes to our thinking about how to study an artifact. <br /> <br />Directed by Peter Miller and Michele Majer. 433 pages. Defended in September, 2015. Registered in ProQuest in 2016.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/36050084" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="749948a25bb5006eb1f423efb61203ae" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":55935967,"asset_id":36050084,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/55935967/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="9792997" href="https://ugent.academia.edu/MaudeBassKrueger">Maude Bass-Krueger</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="9792997" type="text/json">{"id":9792997,"first_name":"Maude","last_name":"Bass-Krueger","domain_name":"ugent","page_name":"MaudeBassKrueger","display_name":"Maude Bass-Krueger","profile_url":"https://ugent.academia.edu/MaudeBassKrueger?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/9792997/3058712/12416777/s65_maude.bass-krueger.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_36050084 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="36050084"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 36050084, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_36050084", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_36050084 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 36050084; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_36050084"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_36050084 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="36050084"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 36050084; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=36050084]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_36050084").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_36050084").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="36050084"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">10</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="136" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History">Cultural History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="136" type="text/json">{"id":136,"name":"Cultural History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="392" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology">Archaeology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="392" type="text/json">{"id":392,"name":"Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1181" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/French_History">French History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1181" type="text/json">{"id":1181,"name":"French History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/French_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=36050084]'), work: {"id":36050084,"title":"PhD dissertation: The Culture of Dress History in France: The Past in Fashion, 1814-1900.","created_at":"2018-03-01T03:47:20.192-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/36050084/PhD_dissertation_The_Culture_of_Dress_History_in_France_The_Past_in_Fashion_1814_1900?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_36050084","summary":"\"The Culture of Dress History in France: The Past in Fashion, 1814-1900,\" studies the role of historic dress and dress history in creating knowledge about the past in nineteenth century France. This research examined how the practice of writing about, collecting, exhibiting, making, and representing historic and historicizing dress helped the French visualize their past. The conceptual questions raised by looking at the way that people observed and used historic artifacts not only expands the history of studying artifacts but also contributes to our thinking about how to study an artifact. \r\n\r\nDirected by Peter Miller and Michele Majer. 433 pages. Defended in September, 2015. Registered in ProQuest in 2016.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":55935967,"asset_id":36050084,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":9792997,"first_name":"Maude","last_name":"Bass-Krueger","domain_name":"ugent","page_name":"MaudeBassKrueger","display_name":"Maude Bass-Krueger","profile_url":"https://ugent.academia.edu/MaudeBassKrueger?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/9792997/3058712/12416777/s65_maude.bass-krueger.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":136,"name":"Cultural History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":392,"name":"Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1181,"name":"French History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/French_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1629,"name":"French Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/French_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2326,"name":"Nineteenth Century Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Nineteenth_Century_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":50968,"name":"Fashion Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":52072,"name":"History of Collecting","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Collecting?f_ri=1437"},{"id":226095,"name":"History of Exhibitions","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Exhibitions?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_33606966" data-work_id="33606966" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/33606966/Ond%C5%99ej_Stoli%C4%8Dka_Clothing_as_a_Means_of_Representation_of_Baroque_Nobles_in_Central_Europe_1650_1700_The_Journal_of_Dress_History_Volume_1_Issue_1_Spring_2017_The_Association_of_Dress_Historians_London_pp_100_106">Ondřej Stolička, ‘Clothing as a Means of Representation of Baroque Nobles in Central Europe, 1650–1700’, The Journal of Dress History, Volume 1, Issue 1, Spring 2017, The Association of Dress Historians, London, pp. 100–106.</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/33606966" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="7ba9f274e61594d52730dd88d9f3993c" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":53626081,"asset_id":33606966,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/53626081/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="9400775" href="https://cas-cz.academia.edu/OndrejLeeStolicka">Ondrej Lee Stolicka</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="9400775" type="text/json">{"id":9400775,"first_name":"Ondrej","last_name":"Lee Stolicka","domain_name":"cas-cz","page_name":"OndrejLeeStolicka","display_name":"Ondrej Lee Stolicka","profile_url":"https://cas-cz.academia.edu/OndrejLeeStolicka?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/9400775/2996681/151984246/s65_ondrej.lee_stolicka.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_33606966 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="33606966"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 33606966, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_33606966", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_33606966 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 33606966; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_33606966"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_33606966 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="33606966"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 33606966; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=33606966]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_33606966").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_33606966").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="33606966"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">4</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5431" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Seventeenth_Century">Seventeenth Century</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5431" type="text/json">{"id":5431,"name":"Seventeenth Century","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Seventeenth_Century?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="6326" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Central_European_history">Central European history</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="6326" type="text/json">{"id":6326,"name":"Central European history","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Central_European_history?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1738441" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Schwarzenberg">Schwarzenberg</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1738441" type="text/json">{"id":1738441,"name":"Schwarzenberg","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Schwarzenberg?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=33606966]'), work: {"id":33606966,"title":"Ondřej Stolička, ‘Clothing as a Means of Representation of Baroque Nobles in Central Europe, 1650–1700’, The Journal of Dress History, Volume 1, Issue 1, Spring 2017, The Association of Dress Historians, London, pp. 100–106.","created_at":"2017-06-22T08:15:14.970-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/33606966/Ond%C5%99ej_Stoli%C4%8Dka_Clothing_as_a_Means_of_Representation_of_Baroque_Nobles_in_Central_Europe_1650_1700_The_Journal_of_Dress_History_Volume_1_Issue_1_Spring_2017_The_Association_of_Dress_Historians_London_pp_100_106?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_33606966","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":53626081,"asset_id":33606966,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":9400775,"first_name":"Ondrej","last_name":"Lee Stolicka","domain_name":"cas-cz","page_name":"OndrejLeeStolicka","display_name":"Ondrej Lee Stolicka","profile_url":"https://cas-cz.academia.edu/OndrejLeeStolicka?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/9400775/2996681/151984246/s65_ondrej.lee_stolicka.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":5431,"name":"Seventeenth Century","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Seventeenth_Century?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":6326,"name":"Central European history","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Central_European_history?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1738441,"name":"Schwarzenberg","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Schwarzenberg?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_35134536" data-work_id="35134536" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/35134536/Vestidas_e_afeitas_para_serem_virtuosas_as_mulheres_na_Castela_dos_s%C3%A9culos_XIV_e_XV_S%C3%A3o_Carlos_EdUFSCar_2017_Dressed_and_adorned_to_be_virtuous_women_in_Castile_of_the_fourteenth_and_fifteenth_centuries">Vestidas e afeitas para serem virtuosas: as mulheres na Castela dos séculos XIV e XV. São Carlos: EdUFSCar, 2017. / Dressed and adorned to be virtuous: women in Castile of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Na Castela dos séculos XIV e XV, as vestimentas e os adornos das mulheres passaram a ser alvo de uma série de prescrições que visavam à sua moralização. Com o intuito de evitar as faltas no cuidado da aparência, foram estabelecidas,... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_35134536" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Na Castela dos séculos XIV e XV, as vestimentas e os adornos das mulheres passaram a ser alvo de uma série de prescrições que visavam à sua moralização. Com o intuito de evitar as faltas no cuidado da aparência, foram estabelecidas, durante os dois séculos, diversas leis e regras por meio das quais as mulheres deveriam se guiar e serem guiadas por seus responsáveis para alcançarem um uso moderado, virtuoso e proveitoso dos vestidos e afeites. A partir dos problemas apontados em diversos escritos da época, normativos e edificantes, a proposta central do livro é inquirir sobre os valores e as especificações que deveriam pautar a conduta das castelhanas no trato de sua aparência. ISBN: 978-85-7600-481-3// [Dressed and adorned to be virtuous: women in Castile of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries]. In the Castile of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the garments and adornments of women have been targeted in a series of prescriptions aimed at their moralization. In order to avoid such shortcomings were established during the two centuries, various laws and rules by which women should guide and be guided by their leaders to achieve a moderate, virtuous and useful use of dresses and adornments. From the problems identified in various writings of the time, normative and edifying, the central aim of this research is to inquire about the values and specifications that should guide the conduct of Castilian women in dealing with their appearance.// Imagem da capa/cover image: Sarga de Santa Ana, século XV, ©Museo de La Rioja, Espanha. <a href="http://www.edufscar.com.br/vestidas-e-afeitas-para-serem-virtuosas-as-mulheres-na-castela-nos-seculos-xiv-e-xv" rel="nofollow">http://www.edufscar.com.br/vestidas-e-afeitas-para-serem-virtuosas-as-mulheres-na-castela-nos-seculos-xiv-e-xv</a></div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/35134536" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="bee136d0a424496f4363f23b696db053" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":67666362,"asset_id":35134536,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/67666362/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="1303701" href="https://unesp.academia.edu/ThiagoAlvarado">Thiago Henrique Alvarado</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="1303701" type="text/json">{"id":1303701,"first_name":"Thiago","last_name":"Henrique Alvarado","domain_name":"unesp","page_name":"ThiagoAlvarado","display_name":"Thiago Henrique Alvarado","profile_url":"https://unesp.academia.edu/ThiagoAlvarado?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1303701/481446/19641436/s65_thiago.henrique_alvarado.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_35134536 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="35134536"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 35134536, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_35134536", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_35134536 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 35134536; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_35134536"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_35134536 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="35134536"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 35134536; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=35134536]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_35134536").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_35134536").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="35134536"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">14</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1446" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History">Medieval History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1446" type="text/json">{"id":1446,"name":"Medieval History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1726" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_History">Women's History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1726" type="text/json">{"id":1726,"name":"Women's History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="6859" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Iberian_History">Medieval Iberian History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="6859" type="text/json">{"id":6859,"name":"Medieval Iberian History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Iberian_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=35134536]'), work: {"id":35134536,"title":"Vestidas e afeitas para serem virtuosas: as mulheres na Castela dos séculos XIV e XV. São Carlos: EdUFSCar, 2017. / Dressed and adorned to be virtuous: women in Castile of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries","created_at":"2017-11-13T07:55:30.363-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/35134536/Vestidas_e_afeitas_para_serem_virtuosas_as_mulheres_na_Castela_dos_s%C3%A9culos_XIV_e_XV_S%C3%A3o_Carlos_EdUFSCar_2017_Dressed_and_adorned_to_be_virtuous_women_in_Castile_of_the_fourteenth_and_fifteenth_centuries?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_35134536","summary":"Na Castela dos séculos XIV e XV, as vestimentas e os adornos das mulheres passaram a ser alvo de uma série de prescrições que visavam à sua moralização. Com o intuito de evitar as faltas no cuidado da aparência, foram estabelecidas, durante os dois séculos, diversas leis e regras por meio das quais as mulheres deveriam se guiar e serem guiadas por seus responsáveis para alcançarem um uso moderado, virtuoso e proveitoso dos vestidos e afeites. A partir dos problemas apontados em diversos escritos da época, normativos e edificantes, a proposta central do livro é inquirir sobre os valores e as especificações que deveriam pautar a conduta das castelhanas no trato de sua aparência. ISBN: 978-85-7600-481-3// [Dressed and adorned to be virtuous: women in Castile of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries]. In the Castile of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the garments and adornments of women have been targeted in a series of prescriptions aimed at their moralization. In order to avoid such shortcomings were established during the two centuries, various laws and rules by which women should guide and be guided by their leaders to achieve a moderate, virtuous and useful use of dresses and adornments. From the problems identified in various writings of the time, normative and edifying, the central aim of this research is to inquire about the values and specifications that should guide the conduct of Castilian women in dealing with their appearance.// Imagem da capa/cover image: Sarga de Santa Ana, século XV, ©Museo de La Rioja, Espanha. http://www.edufscar.com.br/vestidas-e-afeitas-para-serem-virtuosas-as-mulheres-na-castela-nos-seculos-xiv-e-xv\r\n","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":67666362,"asset_id":35134536,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":1303701,"first_name":"Thiago","last_name":"Henrique Alvarado","domain_name":"unesp","page_name":"ThiagoAlvarado","display_name":"Thiago Henrique Alvarado","profile_url":"https://unesp.academia.edu/ThiagoAlvarado?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1303701/481446/19641436/s65_thiago.henrique_alvarado.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1446,"name":"Medieval History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1726,"name":"Women's History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":6859,"name":"Medieval Iberian History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Iberian_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":38851,"name":"Medieval Spain","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Spain?f_ri=1437"},{"id":79357,"name":"Historia medieval de España","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historia_medieval_de_Espana?f_ri=1437"},{"id":81894,"name":"Middle Ages","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Middle_Ages?f_ri=1437"},{"id":139702,"name":"Edad Media","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Edad_Media?f_ri=1437"},{"id":300568,"name":"Sumptuary Legislation","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sumptuary_Legislation?f_ri=1437"},{"id":332531,"name":"Castilla","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Castilla?f_ri=1437"},{"id":510332,"name":"Historia de Castilla","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historia_de_Castilla?f_ri=1437"},{"id":731260,"name":"Historia Del Vestido","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historia_Del_Vestido?f_ri=1437"},{"id":866669,"name":"Histoire du Vêtement","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Histoire_du_Vetement?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2514364,"name":"Lois somptuaires","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Lois_somptuaires?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_35889926" data-work_id="35889926" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/35889926/Being_Prepared_Aspects_of_Dress_and_Dressing">Being Prepared: Aspects of Dress and Dressing</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Book review. Michael Carter: Being Prepared: Aspects of Dress and Dressing. Sydney: Puncher & Wattmann, 2017, 210 pp., ISBN 978-1-9221-8694-2. The meanings of dress, clothing and fashion are so intermingled nowadays that it is hard to... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_35889926" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Book review. Michael Carter: Being Prepared: Aspects of Dress and Dressing. Sydney: Puncher & Wattmann, 2017, 210 pp., ISBN 978-1-9221-8694-2.<br /><br />The meanings of dress, clothing and fashion are so intermingled nowadays that it is hard to speak about one without inferring the others. Dress is mainly about appearance, the visual, while fashion includes the social meanings and functions of dress. Clothing occupies a central place in contemporary dress and fashion, but clothing is also a technology with properties and functions unrelated to dress and fashion. For these reasons, the overlap between dress and clothing can create problems when considering questions of origins.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/35889926" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="2637cb0bb2dfef820a480bfdff37647a" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":68382216,"asset_id":35889926,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/68382216/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="26989126" href="https://sydney.academia.edu/IanGilligan">Ian Gilligan</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="26989126" type="text/json">{"id":26989126,"first_name":"Ian","last_name":"Gilligan","domain_name":"sydney","page_name":"IanGilligan","display_name":"Ian Gilligan","profile_url":"https://sydney.academia.edu/IanGilligan?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/26989126/7576028/110088399/s65_ian.gilligan.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_35889926 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="35889926"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 35889926, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_35889926", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_35889926 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 35889926; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_35889926"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_35889926 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="35889926"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 35889926; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=35889926]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_35889926").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_35889926").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="35889926"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">21</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="392" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology">Archaeology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="392" type="text/json">{"id":392,"name":"Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="767" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology">Anthropology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="767" type="text/json">{"id":767,"name":"Anthropology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="915" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History">Art History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="915" type="text/json">{"id":915,"name":"Art History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1094" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design">Fashion design</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1094" type="text/json">{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=35889926]'), work: {"id":35889926,"title":"Being Prepared: Aspects of Dress and Dressing","created_at":"2018-02-10T17:10:17.953-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/35889926/Being_Prepared_Aspects_of_Dress_and_Dressing?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_35889926","summary":"Book review. Michael Carter: Being Prepared: Aspects of Dress and Dressing. Sydney: Puncher \u0026 Wattmann, 2017, 210 pp., ISBN 978-1-9221-8694-2.\n\nThe meanings of dress, clothing and fashion are so intermingled nowadays that it is hard to speak about one without inferring the others. Dress is mainly about appearance, the visual, while fashion includes the social meanings and functions of dress. Clothing occupies a central place in contemporary dress and fashion, but clothing is also a technology with properties and functions unrelated to dress and fashion. For these reasons, the overlap between dress and clothing can create problems when considering questions of origins.\n","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":68382216,"asset_id":35889926,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":26989126,"first_name":"Ian","last_name":"Gilligan","domain_name":"sydney","page_name":"IanGilligan","display_name":"Ian Gilligan","profile_url":"https://sydney.academia.edu/IanGilligan?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/26989126/7576028/110088399/s65_ian.gilligan.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":392,"name":"Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":767,"name":"Anthropology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":915,"name":"Art History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1386,"name":"Art Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_Theory?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1436,"name":"Anthropology of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology_of_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1512,"name":"Climate Change","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Climate_Change?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3255,"name":"Climate Change Adaptation","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Climate_Change_Adaptation?f_ri=1437"},{"id":5290,"name":"Philosophy of Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Philosophy_of_Art?f_ri=1437"},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":13658,"name":"Dress and the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body?f_ri=1437"},{"id":18822,"name":"Dress and Personal Adornment (Archaeology)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_Personal_Adornment_Archaeology_?f_ri=1437"},{"id":30254,"name":"Pleistocene","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Pleistocene?f_ri=1437"},{"id":81964,"name":"Clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothing?f_ri=1437"},{"id":86962,"name":"Fashion,textile and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_textile_and_clothing?f_ri=1437"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_10462302" data-work_id="10462302" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/10462302/_United_States_Hawaii_Encyclopedia_of_National_Dress_Traditional_Clothing_around_the_World_Ed_Jill_Condra_Santa_Barbara_CA_ABCCLIO_2013_ABCCLIO_eBook_Collection_Web_11_Jun_2013">"United States: Hawaii." Encyclopedia of National Dress: Traditional Clothing around the World. Ed. Jill Condra. Santa Barbara, CA: ABCCLIO, 2013. ABCCLIO eBook Collection. Web. 11 Jun 2013.</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/10462302" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="f5a744f8e3971b3cce70429abf7d0d41" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":36492943,"asset_id":10462302,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/36492943/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="380700" href="https://eduorbrooklyn-cuny.academia.edu/JenniferBall">Jennifer Ball</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="380700" type="text/json">{"id":380700,"first_name":"Jennifer","last_name":"Ball","domain_name":"eduorbrooklyn-cuny","page_name":"JenniferBall","display_name":"Jennifer Ball","profile_url":"https://eduorbrooklyn-cuny.academia.edu/JenniferBall?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/380700/2541608/15412681/s65_jennifer.ball.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_10462302 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="10462302"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 10462302, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_10462302", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_10462302 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 10462302; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_10462302"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_10462302 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="10462302"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 10462302; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=10462302]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_10462302").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_10462302").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="10462302"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="21622" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity">Dress and identity</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="21622" type="text/json">{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="33815" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Hawaiian_Studies">Hawaiian Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="33815" type="text/json">{"id":33815,"name":"Hawaiian Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Hawaiian_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="86962" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_textile_and_clothing">Fashion,textile and clothing</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="86962" type="text/json">{"id":86962,"name":"Fashion,textile and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_textile_and_clothing?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=10462302]'), work: {"id":10462302,"title":"\"United States: Hawaii.\" Encyclopedia of National Dress: Traditional Clothing around the World. Ed. Jill Condra. Santa Barbara, CA: ABCCLIO, 2013. ABCCLIO eBook Collection. Web. 11 Jun 2013.","created_at":"2015-02-02T13:13:00.400-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/10462302/_United_States_Hawaii_Encyclopedia_of_National_Dress_Traditional_Clothing_around_the_World_Ed_Jill_Condra_Santa_Barbara_CA_ABCCLIO_2013_ABCCLIO_eBook_Collection_Web_11_Jun_2013?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_10462302","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":36492943,"asset_id":10462302,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":380700,"first_name":"Jennifer","last_name":"Ball","domain_name":"eduorbrooklyn-cuny","page_name":"JenniferBall","display_name":"Jennifer Ball","profile_url":"https://eduorbrooklyn-cuny.academia.edu/JenniferBall?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/380700/2541608/15412681/s65_jennifer.ball.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":33815,"name":"Hawaiian Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Hawaiian_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":86962,"name":"Fashion,textile and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_textile_and_clothing?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":241889,"name":"Hawaiian culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Hawaiian_culture?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_452926" data-work_id="452926" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/452926/S_Botta_a_cura_di_Abiti_corpi_identit%C3%A0_Significati_e_valenze_profonde_del_vestire_Societ%C3%A0_Editrice_Fiorentina_Firenze_2009">S. Botta (a cura di), Abiti, corpi, identità. Significati e valenze profonde del vestire, Società Editrice Fiorentina, Firenze 2009.</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">"… questo volume ambisce ad indagare con scrupolo, e in diversi contesti storici, quelle logiche e dinamiche che conducono le culture alla definizione di una significatività degli abiti. Le più diverse strategie vestimentarie appaiono... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_452926" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">"… questo volume ambisce ad indagare con scrupolo, e in diversi contesti storici, quelle logiche e dinamiche che conducono le culture alla definizione di una significatività degli abiti. Le più <br />diverse strategie vestimentarie appaiono infatti quali dispositivi di importanza decisiva nella produzione di quelle regolarità e continuità che caratterizzano i comportamenti collettivi. Risulta dunque,in tutta la sua evidenza, la necessità di indagare gli abiti e il loro uso culturale quali fatti di natura sistemica, capaci di generare una precipua forma di comunicazione sociale che, sebbene di natura indiretta, costituisce uno dei principali strumenti di produzione di quelle norme del vivere collettivo nelle quali si depositano i valori condivisi dei gruppi…"</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/452926" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="2702cf234ebfd64823d4cd06db58b07b" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":2018568,"asset_id":452926,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/2018568/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="158541" href="https://uniroma1.academia.edu/SergioBotta">Sergio Botta</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="158541" type="text/json">{"id":158541,"first_name":"Sergio","last_name":"Botta","domain_name":"uniroma1","page_name":"SergioBotta","display_name":"Sergio Botta","profile_url":"https://uniroma1.academia.edu/SergioBotta?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/158541/2294893/70299085/s65_sergio.botta.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_452926 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="452926"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 452926, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_452926", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_452926 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 452926; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_452926"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_452926 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="452926"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 452926; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=452926]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_452926").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_452926").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="452926"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">6</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="122" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Comparative_Religion">Comparative Religion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="122" type="text/json">{"id":122,"name":"Comparative Religion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Comparative_Religion?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1434" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies">Dress Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1434" type="text/json">{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2059" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Religion">History of Religion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="2059" type="text/json">{"id":2059,"name":"History of Religion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Religion?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=452926]'), work: {"id":452926,"title":"S. Botta (a cura di), Abiti, corpi, identità. Significati e valenze profonde del vestire, Società Editrice Fiorentina, Firenze 2009.","created_at":"2011-02-22T17:49:08.341-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/452926/S_Botta_a_cura_di_Abiti_corpi_identit%C3%A0_Significati_e_valenze_profonde_del_vestire_Societ%C3%A0_Editrice_Fiorentina_Firenze_2009?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_452926","summary":"\"… questo volume ambisce ad indagare con scrupolo, e in diversi contesti storici, quelle logiche e dinamiche che conducono le culture alla definizione di una significatività degli abiti. Le più \r\ndiverse strategie vestimentarie appaiono infatti quali dispositivi di importanza decisiva nella produzione di quelle regolarità e continuità che caratterizzano i comportamenti collettivi. Risulta dunque,in tutta la sua evidenza, la necessità di indagare gli abiti e il loro uso culturale quali fatti di natura sistemica, capaci di generare una precipua forma di comunicazione sociale che, sebbene di natura indiretta, costituisce uno dei principali strumenti di produzione di quelle norme del vivere collettivo nelle quali si depositano i valori condivisi dei gruppi…\"","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":2018568,"asset_id":452926,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":158541,"first_name":"Sergio","last_name":"Botta","domain_name":"uniroma1","page_name":"SergioBotta","display_name":"Sergio Botta","profile_url":"https://uniroma1.academia.edu/SergioBotta?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/158541/2294893/70299085/s65_sergio.botta.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":122,"name":"Comparative Religion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Comparative_Religion?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2059,"name":"History of Religion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Religion?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":10099,"name":"History of Religions","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Religions?f_ri=1437"},{"id":13658,"name":"Dress and the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_43000186" data-work_id="43000186" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/43000186/%D0%A1%D1%8A%D0%B2%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%BC%D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%BD%D0%B8_%D0%BC%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%BD%D0%B8_%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B8%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%B5_%D0%A1%D1%82%D0%B8%D0%BB_%D0%B8_%D0%BC%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B0_Contemporary_Fashion_Styles_Fashion_and_Style">Съвременни модни стилове. Стил и мода / Contemporary Fashion Styles. Fashion and Style</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Мода и стил - това са понятия, неразривно свързани едно с друго. Между тези две явления има и винаги е имало симбиоза. Модата се променя постоянно, а въвеждането на нови модни стилове се случва ежедневно. Стилът обаче надхвърля честите... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_43000186" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Мода и стил - това са понятия, неразривно свързани едно с друго. Между тези<br />две явления има и винаги е имало симбиоза. Модата се променя постоянно, а<br />въвеждането на нови модни стилове се случва ежедневно. Стилът обаче надхвърля честите промени, тенденции и капризи, които изпълват и характеризират модата. Стилът започва като мода, но устоява на модните и годишните промени, а част от естетически издържаните елементи отекват през сезоните и десетилетията. Стилът е по-устойчивото явление в модата, но както и тя самата, той може да е на модната сцена дори само година-две, а след това да остави своите следи в историята. Модата, според Гари Бест е просто „преследване на новости заради самата себе си".</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/43000186" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="f6726b5e2f6004dc5d1de9be86d81262" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":63263133,"asset_id":43000186,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/63263133/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="106961216" href="https://newbulgarian.academia.edu/ChristinaSavova">Christina Savova</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="106961216" type="text/json">{"id":106961216,"first_name":"Christina","last_name":"Savova","domain_name":"newbulgarian","page_name":"ChristinaSavova","display_name":"Christina Savova","profile_url":"https://newbulgarian.academia.edu/ChristinaSavova?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/106961216/24712355/23573977/s65_christina.savova.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_43000186 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="43000186"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 43000186, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_43000186", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_43000186 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 43000186; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_43000186"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_43000186 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="43000186"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 43000186; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=43000186]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_43000186").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_43000186").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="43000186"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">13</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1094" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design">Fashion design</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1094" type="text/json">{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1434" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies">Dress Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1434" type="text/json">{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1436" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology_of_Dress">Anthropology of Dress</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1436" type="text/json">{"id":1436,"name":"Anthropology of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=43000186]'), work: {"id":43000186,"title":"Съвременни модни стилове. Стил и мода / Contemporary Fashion Styles. Fashion and Style","created_at":"2020-05-10T12:07:33.826-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/43000186/%D0%A1%D1%8A%D0%B2%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%BC%D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%BD%D0%B8_%D0%BC%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%BD%D0%B8_%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B8%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%B5_%D0%A1%D1%82%D0%B8%D0%BB_%D0%B8_%D0%BC%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B0_Contemporary_Fashion_Styles_Fashion_and_Style?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_43000186","summary":"Мода и стил - това са понятия, неразривно свързани едно с друго. Между тези\nдве явления има и винаги е имало симбиоза. Модата се променя постоянно, а\nвъвеждането на нови модни стилове се случва ежедневно. Стилът обаче надхвърля честите промени, тенденции и капризи, които изпълват и характеризират модата. Стилът започва като мода, но устоява на модните и годишните промени, а част от естетически издържаните елементи отекват през сезоните и десетилетията. Стилът е по-устойчивото явление в модата, но както и тя самата, той може да е на модната сцена дори само година-две, а след това да остави своите следи в историята. Модата, според Гари Бест е просто „преследване на новости заради самата себе си\".","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":63263133,"asset_id":43000186,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":106961216,"first_name":"Christina","last_name":"Savova","domain_name":"newbulgarian","page_name":"ChristinaSavova","display_name":"Christina Savova","profile_url":"https://newbulgarian.academia.edu/ChristinaSavova?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/106961216/24712355/23573977/s65_christina.savova.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1436,"name":"Anthropology of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437"},{"id":50968,"name":"Fashion Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":227705,"name":"Clothes","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothes?f_ri=1437"},{"id":256024,"name":"History and Theory of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_and_Theory_of_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":531101,"name":"Cultural Studies, Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies_Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1778523,"name":"Fashion and Style","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_Style?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_30424839" data-work_id="30424839" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/30424839/DRESS_FOR_DEFERENCE_AND_DISSENT_HATS_AND_THE_DECLINE_OF_HAT_HONOUR">DRESS FOR DEFERENCE AND DISSENT: HATS AND THE DECLINE OF HAT HONOUR</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Explores the use of hats in seventeenth and eighteenth-century England for the expression of either deference or dissent. Changing manners of meeting and greeting testified to slow social changes. Hat honour gradually attenuated from the... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_30424839" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Explores the use of hats in seventeenth and eighteenth-century England for the expression of either deference or dissent. Changing manners of meeting and greeting testified to slow social changes. Hat honour gradually attenuated from the full flourish to a more limited acknowledgement. The curtsy for women similarly changed into a more cursory bob. A final section identifies too the slow advent of the egalitarian handshake.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/30424839" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="3c07e82960a18123ef9847ddc099516d" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":50868560,"asset_id":30424839,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/50868560/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="22469501" href="https://royalholloway.academia.edu/PenelopeCorfield">Penelope J Corfield</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="22469501" type="text/json">{"id":22469501,"first_name":"Penelope","last_name":"Corfield","domain_name":"royalholloway","page_name":"PenelopeCorfield","display_name":"Penelope J Corfield","profile_url":"https://royalholloway.academia.edu/PenelopeCorfield?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/22469501/7746026/8684181/s65_penelope.corfield.jpg_oh_19168ff3dcbe3ab864a828cf21db4951_oe_55757970___gda___1435133298_a97079d2a7b5a1342ac3ad34720732d8"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_30424839 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="30424839"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 30424839, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_30424839", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_30424839 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 30424839; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_30424839"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_30424839 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="30424839"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 30424839; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=30424839]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_30424839").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_30424839").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="30424839"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">7</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="128" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History">History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="128" type="text/json">{"id":128,"name":"History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="21622" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity">Dress and identity</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="21622" type="text/json">{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="102730" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dissent">Dissent</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="102730" type="text/json">{"id":102730,"name":"Dissent","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dissent?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=30424839]'), work: {"id":30424839,"title":"DRESS FOR DEFERENCE AND DISSENT: HATS AND THE DECLINE OF HAT HONOUR","created_at":"2016-12-13T09:52:03.777-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/30424839/DRESS_FOR_DEFERENCE_AND_DISSENT_HATS_AND_THE_DECLINE_OF_HAT_HONOUR?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_30424839","summary":"Explores the use of hats in seventeenth and eighteenth-century England for the expression of either deference or dissent. Changing manners of meeting and greeting testified to slow social changes. Hat honour gradually attenuated from the full flourish to a more limited acknowledgement. The curtsy for women similarly changed into a more cursory bob. A final section identifies too the slow advent of the egalitarian handshake.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":50868560,"asset_id":30424839,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":22469501,"first_name":"Penelope","last_name":"Corfield","domain_name":"royalholloway","page_name":"PenelopeCorfield","display_name":"Penelope J Corfield","profile_url":"https://royalholloway.academia.edu/PenelopeCorfield?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/22469501/7746026/8684181/s65_penelope.corfield.jpg_oh_19168ff3dcbe3ab864a828cf21db4951_oe_55757970___gda___1435133298_a97079d2a7b5a1342ac3ad34720732d8"}],"research_interests":[{"id":128,"name":"History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":102730,"name":"Dissent","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dissent?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":686527,"name":"Hats","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Hats?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1205696,"name":"Deference","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Deference?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1708629,"name":"Greetings and farewells","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Greetings_and_farewells?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_33427484" data-work_id="33427484" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/33427484/The_Queen_of_France_and_the_Capital_of_Cultural_Heritage_In_Joan_Lluis_Palos_Magdalena_S_Sanchez_Eds_Early_Modern_Dynastic_Marriages_and_Cultural_Transfer_pp_45_65_Surrey_Ashgate">The Queen of France and the Capital of Cultural Heritage. In Joan Lluis Palos, Magdalena S. Sanchez (Eds.), Early Modern Dynastic Marriages and Cultural Transfer, (pp. 45-65). Surrey: Ashgate.</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/33427484" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="cc0bf791fefed72a4e4c66cd267164ad" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":53478519,"asset_id":33427484,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/53478519/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="43222657" href="https://sydney.academia.edu/MarkdeVitis">Mark de Vitis</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="43222657" type="text/json">{"id":43222657,"first_name":"Mark","last_name":"de Vitis","domain_name":"sydney","page_name":"MarkdeVitis","display_name":"Mark de Vitis","profile_url":"https://sydney.academia.edu/MarkdeVitis?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/43222657/16730388/17005311/s65_mark.de_vitis.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_33427484 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="33427484"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 33427484, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_33427484", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_33427484 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 33427484; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_33427484"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_33427484 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="33427484"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 33427484; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=33427484]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_33427484").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_33427484").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="33427484"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">6</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2132" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Heritage">Cultural Heritage</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2132" type="text/json">{"id":2132,"name":"Cultural Heritage","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Heritage?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5272" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Identity_Culture_">Identity (Culture)</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5272" type="text/json">{"id":5272,"name":"Identity (Culture)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Identity_Culture_?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5431" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Seventeenth_Century">Seventeenth Century</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="5431" type="text/json">{"id":5431,"name":"Seventeenth Century","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Seventeenth_Century?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=33427484]'), work: {"id":33427484,"title":"The Queen of France and the Capital of Cultural Heritage. In Joan Lluis Palos, Magdalena S. Sanchez (Eds.), Early Modern Dynastic Marriages and Cultural Transfer, (pp. 45-65). Surrey: Ashgate.","created_at":"2017-06-12T13:58:34.807-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/33427484/The_Queen_of_France_and_the_Capital_of_Cultural_Heritage_In_Joan_Lluis_Palos_Magdalena_S_Sanchez_Eds_Early_Modern_Dynastic_Marriages_and_Cultural_Transfer_pp_45_65_Surrey_Ashgate?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_33427484","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":53478519,"asset_id":33427484,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":43222657,"first_name":"Mark","last_name":"de Vitis","domain_name":"sydney","page_name":"MarkdeVitis","display_name":"Mark de Vitis","profile_url":"https://sydney.academia.edu/MarkdeVitis?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/43222657/16730388/17005311/s65_mark.de_vitis.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2132,"name":"Cultural Heritage","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Heritage?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":5272,"name":"Identity (Culture)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Identity_Culture_?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":5431,"name":"Seventeenth Century","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Seventeenth_Century?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437"},{"id":62490,"name":"Louis XIV","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Louis_XIV?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_406941 coauthored" data-work_id="406941" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/406941/Gender_Taste_and_Material_Culture_in_Britain_and_North_America_1700_1830_with_Amanda_Vickery_New_Haven_Yale_University_Press_2006_">Gender, Taste and Material Culture in Britain and North America, 1700-1830 (with Amanda Vickery, New Haven, Yale University Press, 2006)</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Between 1700 and 1830, men and women in the English-speaking territories framing the Atlantic gained unprecedented access to material things. The British Atlantic was an empire of goods, held together not just by political authority and a... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_406941" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Between 1700 and 1830, men and women in the English-speaking territories framing the Atlantic gained unprecedented access to material things. The British Atlantic was an empire of goods, held together not just by political authority and a common language, but by a shared material culture nourished by constant flows of commodities. Diets expanded to include exotic luxuries such as tea and sugar, the fruits of mercantile and colonial expansion. Homes were furnished with novel goods, like clocks and earthenware teapots, the products of British industrial ingenuity. This groundbreaking book compares these developments in Britain and North America, bringing together a multi-disciplinary group of scholars to consider basic questions about women, men, and objects in these regions. In asking who did the shopping, how things were used, and why they became the subject of political dispute, the essays show the profound significance of everyday objects in the eighteenth-century Atlantic world.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/406941" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="3b078471d2f7b4630f84b8bb2d0fc7cf" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":35836312,"asset_id":406941,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/35836312/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="270097" href="https://herts.academia.edu/JohnStyles">John Styles</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="270097" type="text/json">{"id":270097,"first_name":"John","last_name":"Styles","domain_name":"herts","page_name":"JohnStyles","display_name":"John Styles","profile_url":"https://herts.academia.edu/JohnStyles?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/270097/56231/45044972/s65_john.styles.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-406941">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-406941"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://qmul.academia.edu/AmandaVickery">Amanda J Vickery</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-406941'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-406941').html(); } } new HoverPopover(popoverSettings); })();</script></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_406941 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="406941"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 406941, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_406941", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_406941 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 406941; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_406941"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_406941 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="406941"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 406941; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=406941]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_406941").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_406941").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="406941"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">12</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="137" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Economic_History">Economic History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="137" type="text/json">{"id":137,"name":"Economic History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Economic_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1563" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Consumers_and_Consumption">Consumers & Consumption</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1563" type="text/json">{"id":1563,"name":"Consumers \u0026 Consumption","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Consumers_and_Consumption?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1632" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design_History">Design History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1632" type="text/json">{"id":1632,"name":"Design History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=406941]'), work: {"id":406941,"title":"Gender, Taste and Material Culture in Britain and North America, 1700-1830 (with Amanda Vickery, New Haven, Yale University Press, 2006)","created_at":"2011-01-09T18:03:52.288-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/406941/Gender_Taste_and_Material_Culture_in_Britain_and_North_America_1700_1830_with_Amanda_Vickery_New_Haven_Yale_University_Press_2006_?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_406941","summary":"Between 1700 and 1830, men and women in the English-speaking territories framing the Atlantic gained unprecedented access to material things. The British Atlantic was an empire of goods, held together not just by political authority and a common language, but by a shared material culture nourished by constant flows of commodities. Diets expanded to include exotic luxuries such as tea and sugar, the fruits of mercantile and colonial expansion. Homes were furnished with novel goods, like clocks and earthenware teapots, the products of British industrial ingenuity. This groundbreaking book compares these developments in Britain and North America, bringing together a multi-disciplinary group of scholars to consider basic questions about women, men, and objects in these regions. In asking who did the shopping, how things were used, and why they became the subject of political dispute, the essays show the profound significance of everyday objects in the eighteenth-century Atlantic world.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":35836312,"asset_id":406941,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":270097,"first_name":"John","last_name":"Styles","domain_name":"herts","page_name":"JohnStyles","display_name":"John Styles","profile_url":"https://herts.academia.edu/JohnStyles?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/270097/56231/45044972/s65_john.styles.jpg"},{"id":306231,"first_name":"Amanda","last_name":"Vickery","domain_name":"qmul","page_name":"AmandaVickery","display_name":"Amanda J Vickery","profile_url":"https://qmul.academia.edu/AmandaVickery?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/306231/61749/2843600/s65_amanda.vickery.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":137,"name":"Economic History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Economic_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1563,"name":"Consumers \u0026 Consumption","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Consumers_and_Consumption?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1632,"name":"Design History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1726,"name":"Women's History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2272,"name":"Gender History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":5231,"name":"Eighteenth Century History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Eighteenth_Century_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":5256,"name":"History of Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles?f_ri=1437"},{"id":6325,"name":"Consumerism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Consumerism?f_ri=1437"},{"id":7721,"name":"Eighteenth-Century British History and Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Eighteenth-Century_British_History_and_Culture?f_ri=1437"},{"id":25361,"name":"Fashion (History)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History_?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_41886499" data-work_id="41886499" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/41886499/Referring_to_Regional_Dress_Dutch_Traditional_Costumes_as_Recurring_Inspiration_for_Contemporary_Fashion_Design">Referring to Regional Dress: Dutch Traditional Costumes as Recurring Inspiration for Contemporary Fashion Design</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/41886499" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="78a2c0dadda3b34c0d7f009e1b726c5b" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":64880981,"asset_id":41886499,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/64880981/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="15455481" href="https://thehagueuniversity.academia.edu/MartaKarg%C3%B3l">Marta Kargól</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="15455481" type="text/json">{"id":15455481,"first_name":"Marta","last_name":"Kargól","domain_name":"thehagueuniversity","page_name":"MartaKargól","display_name":"Marta Kargól","profile_url":"https://thehagueuniversity.academia.edu/MartaKarg%C3%B3l?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/15455481/4173501/4860497/s65_marta.karg_l.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_41886499 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="41886499"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 41886499, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_41886499", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_41886499 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 41886499; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_41886499"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_41886499 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="41886499"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 41886499; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=41886499]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_41886499").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_41886499").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="41886499"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1094" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design">Fashion design</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1094" type="text/json">{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1434" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies">Dress Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1434" type="text/json">{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=41886499]'), work: {"id":41886499,"title":"Referring to Regional Dress: Dutch Traditional Costumes as Recurring Inspiration for Contemporary Fashion Design","created_at":"2020-02-06T12:10:33.414-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/41886499/Referring_to_Regional_Dress_Dutch_Traditional_Costumes_as_Recurring_Inspiration_for_Contemporary_Fashion_Design?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_41886499","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":64880981,"asset_id":41886499,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":15455481,"first_name":"Marta","last_name":"Kargól","domain_name":"thehagueuniversity","page_name":"MartaKargól","display_name":"Marta Kargól","profile_url":"https://thehagueuniversity.academia.edu/MartaKarg%C3%B3l?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/15455481/4173501/4860497/s65_marta.karg_l.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_30871719 coauthored" data-work_id="30871719" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/30871719/_2016_Los_textiles_elaborados_con_cuentas_perforadas_de_Montelirio_The_Montelirio_Beaded_Textiles_In_Fern%C3%A1ndez_Fl%C3%B3rez_A_Garc%C3%ADa_Sanju%C3%A1n_L_and_D%C3%ADaz_Zorita_Bonilla_M_Montelirio_Un_gran_monumento_megal%C3%ADtico_de_la_Edad_del_Cobre_Sevilla_Junta_de_Andalucia_345_364">(2016) Los textiles elaborados con cuentas perforadas de Montelirio [The Montelirio Beaded Textiles]. In: Fernández Flórez, A, García Sanjuán, L & Díaz-Zorita Bonilla, M. "Montelirio. Un gran monumento megalítico de la Edad del Cobre". Sevilla: Junta de Andalucia, 345-364.</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Abstract: This chapter (written in Spanish) provides a general characterization of the garments with beads documented in the Montelirio tholos, including considerations of their manufacture and use in mortuary practices. Firstly, the... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_30871719" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Abstract: This chapter (written in Spanish) provides a general characterization of the garments with beads documented in the Montelirio tholos, including considerations of their manufacture and use in mortuary practices. Firstly, the contexts in which the beads were found, the position and distribution of the latter, also in association with specific individuals, are described with attention to the post-depositional processes that affected the formation of the archaeological deposits. Secondly, the techniques of bead manufacture and assemblage deployed to create elaborate garments, as well as the characteristics of the latter, are examined in light of the evidence provided by the beads, their location, and distribution. The chapter concludes with some preliminary thoughts on the social dimension of the manufacture of such elaborate garments with beads, which most probably required organized craftsmanship, and their use in the mortuary practices developed in the Montelirio tholos.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/30871719" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="3c31ff348710dbaff02731d2d81a8cce" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":51298384,"asset_id":30871719,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/51298384/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="117531" href="https://durham.academia.edu/MartaD%C3%ADazGuardamino">Marta Diaz-Guardamino</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="117531" type="text/json">{"id":117531,"first_name":"Marta","last_name":"Diaz-Guardamino","domain_name":"durham","page_name":"MartaDíazGuardamino","display_name":"Marta Diaz-Guardamino","profile_url":"https://durham.academia.edu/MartaD%C3%ADazGuardamino?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/117531/31576/131472053/s65_marta.d_az-guardamino.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-30871719">+2</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-30871719"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://canterbury.academia.edu/EleanorWilliams">Ellie Williams</a></span></div><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://us.academia.edu/JoseAngelGarrido">José Ángel Garrido Cordero</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-30871719'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-30871719').html(); } } new HoverPopover(popoverSettings); })();</script></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_30871719 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="30871719"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 30871719, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_30871719", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_30871719 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 30871719; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_30871719"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_30871719 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="30871719"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 30871719; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=30871719]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_30871719").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_30871719").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="30871719"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">15</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8516" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Funerary_Archaeology">Funerary Archaeology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8516" type="text/json">{"id":8516,"name":"Funerary Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Funerary_Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="11199" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Neolithic_Archaeology">Neolithic Archaeology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="11199" type="text/json">{"id":11199,"name":"Neolithic Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Neolithic_Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="12587" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Neolithic_and_Chalcolithic_Archaeology">Neolithic & Chalcolithic Archaeology</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="12587" type="text/json">{"id":12587,"name":"Neolithic \u0026 Chalcolithic Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Neolithic_and_Chalcolithic_Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=30871719]'), work: {"id":30871719,"title":"(2016) Los textiles elaborados con cuentas perforadas de Montelirio [The Montelirio Beaded Textiles]. In: Fernández Flórez, A, García Sanjuán, L \u0026 Díaz-Zorita Bonilla, M. \"Montelirio. Un gran monumento megalítico de la Edad del Cobre\". Sevilla: Junta de Andalucia, 345-364.","created_at":"2017-01-11T02:29:59.579-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/30871719/_2016_Los_textiles_elaborados_con_cuentas_perforadas_de_Montelirio_The_Montelirio_Beaded_Textiles_In_Fern%C3%A1ndez_Fl%C3%B3rez_A_Garc%C3%ADa_Sanju%C3%A1n_L_and_D%C3%ADaz_Zorita_Bonilla_M_Montelirio_Un_gran_monumento_megal%C3%ADtico_de_la_Edad_del_Cobre_Sevilla_Junta_de_Andalucia_345_364?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_30871719","summary":"Abstract: This chapter (written in Spanish) provides a general characterization of the garments with beads documented in the Montelirio tholos, including considerations of their manufacture and use in mortuary practices. Firstly, the contexts in which the beads were found, the position and distribution of the latter, also in association with specific individuals, are described with attention to the post-depositional processes that affected the formation of the archaeological deposits. Secondly, the techniques of bead manufacture and assemblage deployed to create elaborate garments, as well as the characteristics of the latter, are examined in light of the evidence provided by the beads, their location, and distribution. The chapter concludes with some preliminary thoughts on the social dimension of the manufacture of such elaborate garments with beads, which most probably required organized craftsmanship, and their use in the mortuary practices developed in the Montelirio tholos.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":51298384,"asset_id":30871719,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":117531,"first_name":"Marta","last_name":"Diaz-Guardamino","domain_name":"durham","page_name":"MartaDíazGuardamino","display_name":"Marta Diaz-Guardamino","profile_url":"https://durham.academia.edu/MartaD%C3%ADazGuardamino?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/117531/31576/131472053/s65_marta.d_az-guardamino.jpg"},{"id":279540,"first_name":"Ellie","last_name":"Williams","domain_name":"canterbury","page_name":"EleanorWilliams","display_name":"Ellie Williams","profile_url":"https://canterbury.academia.edu/EleanorWilliams?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/279540/60372/52085682/s65_ellie.williams.jpeg"},{"id":3145989,"first_name":"José Ángel","last_name":"Garrido Cordero","domain_name":"us","page_name":"JoseAngelGarrido","display_name":"José Ángel Garrido Cordero","profile_url":"https://us.academia.edu/JoseAngelGarrido?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/3145989/1218013/1523570/s65_jose_angel.garrido.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":8516,"name":"Funerary Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Funerary_Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":11199,"name":"Neolithic Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Neolithic_Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":12587,"name":"Neolithic \u0026 Chalcolithic Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Neolithic_and_Chalcolithic_Archaeology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":12591,"name":"Chalcolithic Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Chalcolithic_Archaeology?f_ri=1437"},{"id":17515,"name":"Digital imaging","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Digital_imaging?f_ri=1437"},{"id":18822,"name":"Dress and Personal Adornment (Archaeology)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_Personal_Adornment_Archaeology_?f_ri=1437"},{"id":22571,"name":"Iberian Prehistory (Archaeology)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Iberian_Prehistory_Archaeology_?f_ri=1437"},{"id":22825,"name":"Archaeology of the Iberian Peninsula","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology_of_the_Iberian_Peninsula?f_ri=1437"},{"id":25828,"name":"Digital Photogrammetry applied to Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Digital_Photogrammetry_applied_to_Archaeology?f_ri=1437"},{"id":33326,"name":"Archaeology of Ritual","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology_of_Ritual?f_ri=1437"},{"id":57161,"name":"Funerary Practices","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Funerary_Practices?f_ri=1437"},{"id":86719,"name":"Copper age","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Copper_age?f_ri=1437"},{"id":353161,"name":"Prehistoric Textiles, Dyeing, Weaving","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Prehistoric_Textiles_Dyeing_Weaving?f_ri=1437"},{"id":598961,"name":"Valencina de la Concepción (Seville, Spain)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Valencina_de_la_Concepcion_Seville_Spain_?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_45148015" data-work_id="45148015" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/45148015/Fashion_Plastic_and_Myths_in_Color">Fashion, Plastic and Myths in Color</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">This short article examines a photograph in a 1956 catalogue for the French department store Galeries Lafayette in the context of the country’s postwar modernization, Paris renovations and the development of the readymade garment... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_45148015" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">This short article examines a photograph in a 1956 catalogue for the French department store Galeries Lafayette in the context of the country’s postwar modernization, Paris renovations and the development of the readymade garment industry. It relates the production of image to the construction and dissemination of fashion and femininity in the print media. In particular, it notes how the use of changing technologies in image production, notably Kodachrome color film, shaped and exposed these constructions. Drawing on the notion of myth, as formulated by Roland Barthes, this article asks how the image spoke to modernity’s inherent contradictions, notably between old and new, in its depiction of bodies, plastic and synthetic fabric. Finally, it shows why this was particularly relevant in the culture of postwar France.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/45148015" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="3a2f570d628b4d7eebfc8e4161f4b4de" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":66223361,"asset_id":45148015,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/66223361/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="993382" href="https://vermillionmediany.academia.edu/AlexisRomano">Alexis Romano</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="993382" type="text/json">{"id":993382,"first_name":"Alexis","last_name":"Romano","domain_name":"vermillionmediany","page_name":"AlexisRomano","display_name":"Alexis Romano","profile_url":"https://vermillionmediany.academia.edu/AlexisRomano?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/993382/463188/71607832/s65_alexis.romano.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_45148015 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="45148015"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 45148015, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_45148015", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_45148015 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 45148015; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_45148015"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_45148015 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="45148015"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 45148015; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=45148015]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_45148015").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_45148015").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="45148015"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">20</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="696" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_Studies">Gender Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="696" type="text/json">{"id":696,"name":"Gender Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="915" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History">Art History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="915" type="text/json">{"id":915,"name":"Art History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1138" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies">Women's Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1138" type="text/json">{"id":1138,"name":"Women's Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=45148015]'), work: {"id":45148015,"title":"Fashion, Plastic and Myths in Color","created_at":"2021-02-18T09:07:31.211-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/45148015/Fashion_Plastic_and_Myths_in_Color?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_45148015","summary":"This short article examines a photograph in a 1956 catalogue for the French department store Galeries Lafayette in the context of the country’s postwar modernization, Paris renovations and the development of the readymade garment industry. It relates the production of image to the construction and dissemination of fashion and femininity in the print media. In particular, it notes how the use of changing technologies in image production, notably Kodachrome color film, shaped and exposed these constructions. Drawing on the notion of myth, as formulated by Roland Barthes, this article asks how the image spoke to modernity’s inherent contradictions, notably between old and new, in its depiction of bodies, plastic and synthetic fabric. Finally, it shows why this was particularly relevant in the culture of postwar France.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":66223361,"asset_id":45148015,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":993382,"first_name":"Alexis","last_name":"Romano","domain_name":"vermillionmediany","page_name":"AlexisRomano","display_name":"Alexis Romano","profile_url":"https://vermillionmediany.academia.edu/AlexisRomano?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/993382/463188/71607832/s65_alexis.romano.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":696,"name":"Gender Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":915,"name":"Art History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1138,"name":"Women's Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1589,"name":"Photography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Photography?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1726,"name":"Women's History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3225,"name":"Visual Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_Culture?f_ri=1437"},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":8491,"name":"Roland Barthes","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Roland_Barthes?f_ri=1437"},{"id":10503,"name":"Photography Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Photography_Theory?f_ri=1437"},{"id":20079,"name":"History of photography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_photography?f_ri=1437"},{"id":66245,"name":"Women's Magazines","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Magazines?f_ri=1437"},{"id":91839,"name":"Paris","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Paris?f_ri=1437"},{"id":323348,"name":"Dress History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":323475,"name":"Kodachrome","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Kodachrome?f_ri=1437"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":698752,"name":"Midcentury Modernism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Midcentury_Modernism?f_ri=1437"},{"id":777881,"name":"History of Color Photography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Color_Photography?f_ri=1437"},{"id":881239,"name":"History of Postwar France","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Postwar_France?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_8254339" data-work_id="8254339" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/8254339/Impossible_Fashions_Making_and_Wearing_Late_Sixteenth_Century_Clothing">Impossible Fashions? Making and Wearing Late Sixteenth-Century Clothing</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/8254339" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="1717163" href="https://qmul.academia.edu/RebeccaUnsworth">Rebecca Unsworth</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="1717163" type="text/json">{"id":1717163,"first_name":"Rebecca","last_name":"Unsworth","domain_name":"qmul","page_name":"RebeccaUnsworth","display_name":"Rebecca Unsworth","profile_url":"https://qmul.academia.edu/RebeccaUnsworth?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1717163/595963/2388747/s65_rebecca.unsworth.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_8254339 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="8254339"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 8254339, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_8254339", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_8254339 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 8254339; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_8254339"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_8254339 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="8254339"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 8254339; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=8254339]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_8254339").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_8254339").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="8254339"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">8</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1727" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History">Early Modern History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1727" type="text/json">{"id":1727,"name":"Early Modern History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="7353" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_England">Early Modern England</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="7353" type="text/json">{"id":7353,"name":"Early Modern England","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_England?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=8254339]'), work: {"id":8254339,"title":"Impossible Fashions? Making and Wearing Late Sixteenth-Century Clothing","created_at":"2014-09-09T01:05:14.077-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/8254339/Impossible_Fashions_Making_and_Wearing_Late_Sixteenth_Century_Clothing?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_8254339","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[],"ordered_authors":[{"id":1717163,"first_name":"Rebecca","last_name":"Unsworth","domain_name":"qmul","page_name":"RebeccaUnsworth","display_name":"Rebecca Unsworth","profile_url":"https://qmul.academia.edu/RebeccaUnsworth?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1717163/595963/2388747/s65_rebecca.unsworth.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1727,"name":"Early Modern History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":7353,"name":"Early Modern England","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_England?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437"},{"id":234371,"name":"Historical Tailoring Techniques","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historical_Tailoring_Techniques?f_ri=1437"},{"id":345925,"name":"Sixteenth Century History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sixteenth_Century_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_53206233" data-work_id="53206233" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/53206233/The_Pocket_A_Hidden_History_of_Womens_Lives_1660_1900">The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women's Lives, 1660-1900</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/53206233" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="16cf14f67804d8e967b75806fe281a8d" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":70103785,"asset_id":53206233,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/70103785/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="34996550" href="https://arts-london.academia.edu/JessicaHarpley">Jessica Harpley</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="34996550" type="text/json">{"id":34996550,"first_name":"Jessica","last_name":"Harpley","domain_name":"arts-london","page_name":"JessicaHarpley","display_name":"Jessica Harpley","profile_url":"https://arts-london.academia.edu/JessicaHarpley?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/34996550/49795305/37782940/s65_jessica.harpley.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_53206233 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="53206233"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 53206233, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_53206233", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_53206233 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 53206233; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_53206233"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_53206233 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="53206233"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 53206233; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=53206233]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_53206233").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_53206233").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="53206233"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">11</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2272" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_History">Gender History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2272" type="text/json">{"id":2272,"name":"Gender History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5231" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Eighteenth_Century_History">Eighteenth Century History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5231" type="text/json">{"id":5231,"name":"Eighteenth Century History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Eighteenth_Century_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5256" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles">History of Textiles</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="5256" type="text/json">{"id":5256,"name":"History of Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=53206233]'), work: {"id":53206233,"title":"The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women's Lives, 1660-1900","created_at":"2021-09-22T02:06:36.555-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/53206233/The_Pocket_A_Hidden_History_of_Womens_Lives_1660_1900?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_53206233","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":70103785,"asset_id":53206233,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":34996550,"first_name":"Jessica","last_name":"Harpley","domain_name":"arts-london","page_name":"JessicaHarpley","display_name":"Jessica Harpley","profile_url":"https://arts-london.academia.edu/JessicaHarpley?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/34996550/49795305/37782940/s65_jessica.harpley.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2272,"name":"Gender History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":5231,"name":"Eighteenth Century History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Eighteenth_Century_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":5256,"name":"History of Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":7721,"name":"Eighteenth-Century British History and Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Eighteenth-Century_British_History_and_Culture?f_ri=1437"},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":33457,"name":"Material Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture?f_ri=1437"},{"id":36432,"name":"Gendered Bodies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gendered_Bodies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":260004,"name":"Long eighteenth-century","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Long_eighteenth-century?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1749622,"name":"Pockets","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Pockets?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_41269462 coauthored" data-work_id="41269462" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/41269462/RECONSTRUCTION_OF_HISTORICAL_TEXTILE_FABRICS_AND_DRESSES_IN_VIRTUAL_REALITY">RECONSTRUCTION OF HISTORICAL TEXTILE FABRICS AND DRESSES IN VIRTUAL REALITY</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Main aim is to create a method of virtual reconstruction of historical clothes. We applied 2D CAD, Clo3D, and CG tools to find the relationship between outline shape of skirt, properties and construction of garments and textile materials.... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_41269462" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Main aim is to create a method of virtual reconstruction of historical clothes. We applied 2D CAD, Clo3D, and CG tools to find the relationship between outline shape of skirt, properties and construction of garments and textile materials. We used contemporary fabrics which are similar to historical prototypes by changing physical and mechanical properties. New method includes 3D-to-2D flattening; finding the air gaps in "avatar-skirt" system; choosing textile materials and number of underskirt garments; generating of digital replica. The adequacy of historical prototypes to its virtual replica is full due to CAD, new developed modules, and data base.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/41269462" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="80db21c31af79c48be157f5228d7c373" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":61488117,"asset_id":41269462,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/61488117/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="67730880" href="https://sutd-ru.academia.edu/AlekseiMoskvin">Aleksei Moskvin</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="67730880" type="text/json">{"id":67730880,"first_name":"Aleksei","last_name":"Moskvin","domain_name":"sutd-ru","page_name":"AlekseiMoskvin","display_name":"Aleksei Moskvin","profile_url":"https://sutd-ru.academia.edu/AlekseiMoskvin?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/67730880/17610466/17665198/s65_aleksei.moskvin.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-41269462">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-41269462"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://independent.academia.edu/MariiaMoskvina">Mariia Moskvina</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-41269462'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-41269462').html(); } } new HoverPopover(popoverSettings); })();</script></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_41269462 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="41269462"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 41269462, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_41269462", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_41269462 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 41269462; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_41269462"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_41269462 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="41269462"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 41269462; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=41269462]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_41269462").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_41269462").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="41269462"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">7</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5256" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles">History of Textiles</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5256" type="text/json">{"id":5256,"name":"History of Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="13658" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body">Dress and the Body</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="13658" type="text/json">{"id":13658,"name":"Dress and the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="177724" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="177724" type="text/json">{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=41269462]'), work: {"id":41269462,"title":"RECONSTRUCTION OF HISTORICAL TEXTILE FABRICS AND DRESSES IN VIRTUAL REALITY","created_at":"2019-12-11T12:26:11.280-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/41269462/RECONSTRUCTION_OF_HISTORICAL_TEXTILE_FABRICS_AND_DRESSES_IN_VIRTUAL_REALITY?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_41269462","summary":"Main aim is to create a method of virtual reconstruction of historical clothes. We applied 2D CAD, Clo3D, and CG tools to find the relationship between outline shape of skirt, properties and construction of garments and textile materials. We used contemporary fabrics which are similar to historical prototypes by changing physical and mechanical properties. New method includes 3D-to-2D flattening; finding the air gaps in \"avatar-skirt\" system; choosing textile materials and number of underskirt garments; generating of digital replica. The adequacy of historical prototypes to its virtual replica is full due to CAD, new developed modules, and data base.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":61488117,"asset_id":41269462,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":67730880,"first_name":"Aleksei","last_name":"Moskvin","domain_name":"sutd-ru","page_name":"AlekseiMoskvin","display_name":"Aleksei Moskvin","profile_url":"https://sutd-ru.academia.edu/AlekseiMoskvin?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/67730880/17610466/17665198/s65_aleksei.moskvin.jpg"},{"id":67768198,"first_name":"Mariia","last_name":"Moskvina","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"MariiaMoskvina","display_name":"Mariia Moskvina","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/MariiaMoskvina?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/67768198/18744170/38923452/s65_mariia.moskvina.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":5256,"name":"History of Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":13658,"name":"Dress and the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":406918,"name":"Apparel Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Apparel_Industry?f_ri=1437"},{"id":645722,"name":"Historical Clothing and Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historical_Clothing_and_Textiles?f_ri=1437"},{"id":917150,"name":"Clothes Making","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothes_Making?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_12162669" data-work_id="12162669" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/12162669/Fashion_and_the_Senses_Symposium_2015">Fashion & the Senses Symposium 2015</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">The Fashion & the Senses Symposium held at LCF on 27th March 2015 was an international multi-disciplinary forum for industry professionals, practitioners, academics and postgraduate students with a shared interest in this emerging field -... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_12162669" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">The Fashion & the Senses Symposium held at LCF on 27th March 2015 was an international multi-disciplinary forum for industry professionals, practitioners, academics and postgraduate students with a shared interest in this emerging field - fashion and the senses. It was co-organised by Sara Chong Kwan, Associate Lecturer in Cultural and Historical studies at LCF and a final year PhD candidate, and Bethan Alexander,  Course Director of the MA in Fashion Retail Management at LCF.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/12162669" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="2be0ebce2b09494199adeda2057f2d16" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":37465282,"asset_id":12162669,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/37465282/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="11708968" href="https://arts-london.academia.edu/SaraChongKwan">Sara Chong Kwan</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="11708968" type="text/json">{"id":11708968,"first_name":"Sara","last_name":"Chong Kwan","domain_name":"arts-london","page_name":"SaraChongKwan","display_name":"Sara Chong Kwan","profile_url":"https://arts-london.academia.edu/SaraChongKwan?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/11708968/3443571/6802897/s65_sara.chong_kwan.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_12162669 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="12162669"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 12162669, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_12162669", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_12162669 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 12162669; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_12162669"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_12162669 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="12162669"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 12162669; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=12162669]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_12162669").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_12162669").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="12162669"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">30</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="767" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology">Anthropology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="767" type="text/json">{"id":767,"name":"Anthropology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1094" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design">Fashion design</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1094" type="text/json">{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1237" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Social_Sciences">Social Sciences</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1237" type="text/json">{"id":1237,"name":"Social Sciences","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Social_Sciences?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=12162669]'), work: {"id":12162669,"title":"Fashion \u0026 the Senses Symposium 2015","created_at":"2015-04-30T02:26:29.392-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/12162669/Fashion_and_the_Senses_Symposium_2015?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_12162669","summary":"The Fashion \u0026 the Senses Symposium held at LCF on 27th March 2015 was an international multi-disciplinary forum for industry professionals, practitioners, academics and postgraduate students with a shared interest in this emerging field - fashion and the senses. It was co-organised by Sara Chong Kwan, Associate Lecturer in Cultural and Historical studies at LCF and a final year PhD candidate, and Bethan Alexander, Course Director of the MA in Fashion Retail Management at LCF.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":37465282,"asset_id":12162669,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":11708968,"first_name":"Sara","last_name":"Chong Kwan","domain_name":"arts-london","page_name":"SaraChongKwan","display_name":"Sara Chong Kwan","profile_url":"https://arts-london.academia.edu/SaraChongKwan?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/11708968/3443571/6802897/s65_sara.chong_kwan.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":767,"name":"Anthropology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1237,"name":"Social Sciences","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Social_Sciences?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2748,"name":"Sensory Neuroscience","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sensory_Neuroscience?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3858,"name":"Fashion Photography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Photography?f_ri=1437"},{"id":7212,"name":"Sound studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sound_studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":9750,"name":"Textiles Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles_Design?f_ri=1437"},{"id":9964,"name":"Well-Being","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Well-Being?f_ri=1437"},{"id":27903,"name":"Affect (Cultural Theory)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Affect_Cultural_Theory_?f_ri=1437"},{"id":50968,"name":"Fashion Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":53298,"name":"Fashion Marketing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Marketing?f_ri=1437"},{"id":59608,"name":"Sensory Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sensory_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":91829,"name":"Crossmodal Senses","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Crossmodal_Senses?f_ri=1437"},{"id":102164,"name":"Sensory Marketing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sensory_Marketing?f_ri=1437"},{"id":102880,"name":"Wearable Technology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Wearable_Technology?f_ri=1437"},{"id":116880,"name":"Fashion Retailing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Retailing?f_ri=1437"},{"id":262118,"name":"Scent and Senses","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Scent_and_Senses?f_ri=1437"},{"id":665028,"name":"Sensory Branding","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sensory_Branding?f_ri=1437"},{"id":699588,"name":"Textile Futures","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textile_Futures?f_ri=1437"},{"id":825941,"name":"Fashion Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Industry?f_ri=1437"},{"id":912452,"name":"Sustainable Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sustainable_Textiles?f_ri=1437"},{"id":956357,"name":"Body Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Body_Cultural_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1003445,"name":"Materials Research and Analysis","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Materials_Research_and_Analysis?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1204514,"name":"Fashion Practice","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Practice?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1459746,"name":"Fashion Curation","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Curation?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_45100116 coauthored" data-work_id="45100116" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/45100116/Experimental_computer_modelling_of_UV_maps_of_1940s_dresses_for_pattern_drafting">Experimental computer modelling of UV-maps of 1940s dresses for pattern drafting</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">The article presents the results of experimental computer modeling of various silhouette shapes of women's dresses to determine the possibilities of using the UV-unwrap technology in generating pattern blocks of historical clothing. By... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_45100116" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">The article presents the results of experimental computer modeling of various silhouette shapes of women's dresses to determine the possibilities of using the UV-unwrap technology in generating pattern blocks of historical clothing. By using an example of six dresses, a scheme and sequence of application of 3DSMax software commands for modifying the contours of the UV-maps to coincide with the contours of the dress details was developed. The scheme converts the UV-maps of women's clothing into a pattern block. The results are of significant importance for studying historical clothing through its 3D scans from the standpoint of engineering, digital exhibitions and analytical reconstruction.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/45100116" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="b9df18b4fedc7dd478b1eba33e5572dd" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":68983017,"asset_id":45100116,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/68983017/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="67768198" href="https://independent.academia.edu/MariiaMoskvina">Mariia Moskvina</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="67768198" type="text/json">{"id":67768198,"first_name":"Mariia","last_name":"Moskvina","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"MariiaMoskvina","display_name":"Mariia Moskvina","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/MariiaMoskvina?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/67768198/18744170/38923452/s65_mariia.moskvina.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-45100116">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-45100116"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://independent.academia.edu/ARMiroshnikova">A.R. Miroshnikova</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-45100116'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-45100116').html(); } } new HoverPopover(popoverSettings); })();</script></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_45100116 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="45100116"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 45100116, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_45100116", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_45100116 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 45100116; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_45100116"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_45100116 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="45100116"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 45100116; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=45100116]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_45100116").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_45100116").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="45100116"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="145616" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Digitisation">Digitisation</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="145616" type="text/json">{"id":145616,"name":"Digitisation","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Digitisation?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="225527" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Garments_Manufacturing">Garments Manufacturing</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="225527" type="text/json">{"id":225527,"name":"Garments Manufacturing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Garments_Manufacturing?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="406918" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Apparel_Industry">Apparel Industry</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="406918" type="text/json">{"id":406918,"name":"Apparel Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Apparel_Industry?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=45100116]'), work: {"id":45100116,"title":"Experimental computer modelling of UV-maps of 1940s dresses for pattern drafting","created_at":"2021-02-11T04:38:23.874-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/45100116/Experimental_computer_modelling_of_UV_maps_of_1940s_dresses_for_pattern_drafting?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_45100116","summary":"The article presents the results of experimental computer modeling of various silhouette shapes of women's dresses to determine the possibilities of using the UV-unwrap technology in generating pattern blocks of historical clothing. By using an example of six dresses, a scheme and sequence of application of 3DSMax software commands for modifying the contours of the UV-maps to coincide with the contours of the dress details was developed. The scheme converts the UV-maps of women's clothing into a pattern block. The results are of significant importance for studying historical clothing through its 3D scans from the standpoint of engineering, digital exhibitions and analytical reconstruction.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":68983017,"asset_id":45100116,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":67768198,"first_name":"Mariia","last_name":"Moskvina","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"MariiaMoskvina","display_name":"Mariia Moskvina","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/MariiaMoskvina?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/67768198/18744170/38923452/s65_mariia.moskvina.jpg"},{"id":185914593,"first_name":"A.R.","last_name":"Miroshnikova","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"ARMiroshnikova","display_name":"A.R. Miroshnikova","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/ARMiroshnikova?f_ri=1437","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":145616,"name":"Digitisation","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Digitisation?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":225527,"name":"Garments Manufacturing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Garments_Manufacturing?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":406918,"name":"Apparel Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Apparel_Industry?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":688802,"name":"Historical Costume","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historical_Costume?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_9448949" data-work_id="9448949" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/9448949/_2015_De_lhabit_au_costume_L_image_du_v%C3%AAtement_comme_marqueur_de_temporalit%C3%A9_">[2015] « De l'habit au costume : L’image du vêtement comme marqueur de temporalité »,</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Le chapitre part d'une réflexion sur la relation qu'entretiennent le vêtement et le temps dans notre culture visuelle. Une iconographie vestimentaire spécifiquement dédiée à l'habit apparaît en effet à la Renaissance. Petit à petit, dans... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_9448949" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Le chapitre part d'une réflexion sur la relation qu'entretiennent le vêtement et le temps dans notre culture visuelle. Une iconographie vestimentaire spécifiquement dédiée à l'habit apparaît en effet à la Renaissance. Petit à petit, dans la représentation par l'image, l'habit passe du statut d'emblème identifiant l'espace à celui d'identifiant du temps, temps historique et temps de la mode. Intégré à un discours historique au XIXe siècle, l'habit se fait costume et intègre l'échelle du temps dont il se fait le marqueur visuel dans les ouvrages illustrés consacrés à son histoire propre et à l'instruction à l'histoire nationale. Le cinéma s'empare au XXe siècle de la narration historique et use de l'apparence des personnages comme un marqueur de temporalités dans le genre du « film à costumes ».</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/9448949" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="bfa651716fce9b8507136071ae4dffc1" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":57321573,"asset_id":9448949,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/57321573/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="15466775" href="https://univ-lille.academia.edu/IsabelleParesys">Isabelle Paresys</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="15466775" type="text/json">{"id":15466775,"first_name":"Isabelle","last_name":"Paresys","domain_name":"univ-lille","page_name":"IsabelleParesys","display_name":"Isabelle Paresys","profile_url":"https://univ-lille.academia.edu/IsabelleParesys?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/15466775/4176364/158452716/s65_isabelle.paresys.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_9448949 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="9448949"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 9448949, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_9448949", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_9448949 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 9448949; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_9448949"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_9448949 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="9448949"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 9448949; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=9448949]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_9448949").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_9448949").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="9448949"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">12</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="136" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History">Cultural History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="136" type="text/json">{"id":136,"name":"Cultural History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="188" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies">Cultural Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="188" type="text/json">{"id":188,"name":"Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="863" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_Studies">Visual Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="863" type="text/json">{"id":863,"name":"Visual Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=9448949]'), work: {"id":9448949,"title":"[2015] « De l'habit au costume : L’image du vêtement comme marqueur de temporalité »,","created_at":"2014-11-22T18:49:41.312-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/9448949/_2015_De_lhabit_au_costume_L_image_du_v%C3%AAtement_comme_marqueur_de_temporalit%C3%A9_?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_9448949","summary":"Le chapitre part d'une réflexion sur la relation qu'entretiennent le vêtement et le temps dans notre culture visuelle. Une iconographie vestimentaire spécifiquement dédiée à l'habit apparaît en effet à la Renaissance. Petit à petit, dans la représentation par l'image, l'habit passe du statut d'emblème identifiant l'espace à celui d'identifiant du temps, temps historique et temps de la mode. Intégré à un discours historique au XIXe siècle, l'habit se fait costume et intègre l'échelle du temps dont il se fait le marqueur visuel dans les ouvrages illustrés consacrés à son histoire propre et à l'instruction à l'histoire nationale. Le cinéma s'empare au XXe siècle de la narration historique et use de l'apparence des personnages comme un marqueur de temporalités dans le genre du « film à costumes ». ","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":57321573,"asset_id":9448949,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":15466775,"first_name":"Isabelle","last_name":"Paresys","domain_name":"univ-lille","page_name":"IsabelleParesys","display_name":"Isabelle Paresys","profile_url":"https://univ-lille.academia.edu/IsabelleParesys?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/15466775/4176364/158452716/s65_isabelle.paresys.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":136,"name":"Cultural History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":188,"name":"Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":863,"name":"Visual Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3225,"name":"Visual Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_Culture?f_ri=1437"},{"id":5255,"name":"History of Costume","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Costume?f_ri=1437"},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":8855,"name":"Costume and Identity in FIlm","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Costume_and_Identity_in_FIlm?f_ri=1437"},{"id":43776,"name":"Movies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Movies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_22051887" data-work_id="22051887" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/22051887/At_Home_with_Postwar_Cocktail_Culture_and_the_Cocktail_Dress">At Home with Postwar Cocktail Culture and the Cocktail Dress</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Cocktail culture in the postwar United States thrived through the mid-1960s and thanks to an expanded middle class, consumerism also increased. Affordable goods, accessible recipes, and concentrated suburban communities where material... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_22051887" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Cocktail culture in the postwar United States thrived through the mid-1960s and thanks to an expanded middle class, consumerism also increased.  Affordable goods, accessible recipes, and concentrated suburban communities where material wealth could be put on display emerged to create an atmosphere primed for the home cocktail party.  Looking at popular postwar media, I examine the convergence of these different elements showing that the cocktail dress powerfully signifies shifting cultural norms creating opportunities for social success or failure. <br /> <br />This article was published as a chapter in The Shaken and the Stirred: The Year's Work in Cocktail Culture edited by Stephen Schneider and Craig N. Owens, Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2020, pp. 121-144. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or distributed, in any form, by any means, electronic, mechanical, photographic, or otherwise, without the prior permission of Indiana University Press. For re-use, please contact the Copyright Clearance Center (<a href="http://www.copyright.com" rel="nofollow">www.copyright.com</a>, 508-744-3350). For all other permissions, please visit <a href="http://iupress.indiana.edu.”" rel="nofollow">http://iupress.indiana.edu.”</a></div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/22051887" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="13a81ef42713baaec4a6a9e88dbde151" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":80065950,"asset_id":22051887,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/80065950/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="8724490" href="https://independent.academia.edu/LoriHallAraujo">Lori Hall-Araujo</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="8724490" type="text/json">{"id":8724490,"first_name":"Lori","last_name":"Hall-Araujo","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"LoriHallAraujo","display_name":"Lori Hall-Araujo","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/LoriHallAraujo?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/8724490/3266871/65127680/s65_lori.hall-araujo.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_22051887 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="22051887"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 22051887, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_22051887", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_22051887 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 22051887; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_22051887"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_22051887 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="22051887"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 22051887; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=22051887]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_22051887").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_22051887").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="22051887"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">7</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1434" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies">Dress Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1434" type="text/json">{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2337" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Performance_Studies">Performance Studies</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="2337" type="text/json">{"id":2337,"name":"Performance Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Performance_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=22051887]'), work: {"id":22051887,"title":"At Home with Postwar Cocktail Culture and the Cocktail Dress","created_at":"2016-02-16T07:16:48.719-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/22051887/At_Home_with_Postwar_Cocktail_Culture_and_the_Cocktail_Dress?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_22051887","summary":"Cocktail culture in the postwar United States thrived through the mid-1960s and thanks to an expanded middle class, consumerism also increased. Affordable goods, accessible recipes, and concentrated suburban communities where material wealth could be put on display emerged to create an atmosphere primed for the home cocktail party. Looking at popular postwar media, I examine the convergence of these different elements showing that the cocktail dress powerfully signifies shifting cultural norms creating opportunities for social success or failure.\r\n\r\nThis article was published as a chapter in The Shaken and the Stirred: The Year's Work in Cocktail Culture edited by Stephen Schneider and Craig N. Owens, Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2020, pp. 121-144. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, or distributed, in any form, by any means, electronic, mechanical, photographic, or otherwise, without the prior permission of Indiana University Press. For re-use, please contact the Copyright Clearance Center (www.copyright.com, 508-744-3350). For all other permissions, please visit http://iupress.indiana.edu.”","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":80065950,"asset_id":22051887,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":8724490,"first_name":"Lori","last_name":"Hall-Araujo","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"LoriHallAraujo","display_name":"Lori Hall-Araujo","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/LoriHallAraujo?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/8724490/3266871/65127680/s65_lori.hall-araujo.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2337,"name":"Performance Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Performance_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437"},{"id":320196,"name":"Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":468531,"name":"Cocktail","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cocktail?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_4568792" data-work_id="4568792" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/4568792/%D0%90%D0%9D%D0%A2%D0%A0%D0%95%D0%A1%D0%9E%D0%9B%D0%98_%D0%9F%D0%90%D0%9C%D0%AF%D0%A2%D0%98_%D0%92%D0%9E%D0%A1%D0%9F%D0%9E%D0%9C%D0%98%D0%9D%D0%90%D0%9D%D0%98%D0%AF_%D0%9E_%D0%9A%D0%9E%D0%A1%D0%A2%D0%AE%D0%9C%D0%95_1990_%D0%93%D0%9E_%D0%93%D0%9E%D0%94%D0%90_%D0%9D%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B5_%D0%BB%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D1%80%D0%B0%D1%82%D1%83%D1%80%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B5_%D0%BE%D0%B1%D0%BE%D0%B7%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%B5_%D0%BD%D0%BD_81_82_">АНТРЕСОЛИ ПАМЯТИ: ВОСПОМИНАНИЯ О КОСТЮМЕ 1990-ГО ГОДА ("Новое литературное обозрение", нн. 81-82)</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/4568792" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="0118b8bef54d2bd13e3d9331ce14d556" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":31943104,"asset_id":4568792,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/31943104/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="3826386" href="https://hse-ru.academia.edu/LinorGoralik">Linor Goralik</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="3826386" type="text/json">{"id":3826386,"first_name":"Linor","last_name":"Goralik","domain_name":"hse-ru","page_name":"LinorGoralik","display_name":"Linor Goralik","profile_url":"https://hse-ru.academia.edu/LinorGoralik?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/3826386/1396692/1717481/s65_linor.goralik.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_4568792 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="4568792"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 4568792, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_4568792", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_4568792 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 4568792; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_4568792"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_4568792 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="4568792"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 4568792; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=4568792]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_4568792").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_4568792").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="4568792"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">12</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="9154" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_the_USSR">History of the USSR</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="9154" type="text/json">{"id":9154,"name":"History of the USSR","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_the_USSR?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="21622" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity">Dress and identity</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="21622" type="text/json">{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="61347" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/DIY_culture">DIY culture</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="61347" type="text/json">{"id":61347,"name":"DIY culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/DIY_culture?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=4568792]'), work: {"id":4568792,"title":"АНТРЕСОЛИ ПАМЯТИ: ВОСПОМИНАНИЯ О КОСТЮМЕ 1990-ГО ГОДА (\"Новое литературное обозрение\", нн. 81-82)","created_at":"2013-09-23T22:25:41.908-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/4568792/%D0%90%D0%9D%D0%A2%D0%A0%D0%95%D0%A1%D0%9E%D0%9B%D0%98_%D0%9F%D0%90%D0%9C%D0%AF%D0%A2%D0%98_%D0%92%D0%9E%D0%A1%D0%9F%D0%9E%D0%9C%D0%98%D0%9D%D0%90%D0%9D%D0%98%D0%AF_%D0%9E_%D0%9A%D0%9E%D0%A1%D0%A2%D0%AE%D0%9C%D0%95_1990_%D0%93%D0%9E_%D0%93%D0%9E%D0%94%D0%90_%D0%9D%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B5_%D0%BB%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D1%80%D0%B0%D1%82%D1%83%D1%80%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B5_%D0%BE%D0%B1%D0%BE%D0%B7%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%B5_%D0%BD%D0%BD_81_82_?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_4568792","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":31943104,"asset_id":4568792,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":3826386,"first_name":"Linor","last_name":"Goralik","domain_name":"hse-ru","page_name":"LinorGoralik","display_name":"Linor Goralik","profile_url":"https://hse-ru.academia.edu/LinorGoralik?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/3826386/1396692/1717481/s65_linor.goralik.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":9154,"name":"History of the USSR","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_the_USSR?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":61347,"name":"DIY culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/DIY_culture?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":72564,"name":"Perestroika","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Perestroika?f_ri=1437"},{"id":236970,"name":"Creative Consumers","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Creative_Consumers?f_ri=1437"},{"id":254540,"name":"Refashion, Textiles Recycling, Redesign","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Refashion_Textiles_Recycling_Redesign?f_ri=1437"},{"id":994938,"name":"Identity and Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Identity_and_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1128001,"name":"Late USSR","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Late_USSR?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1128002,"name":"Dress In USSR","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_In_USSR?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1128003,"name":"Dress and Creative Consumption","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_Creative_Consumption?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1128004,"name":"Poverty and Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Poverty_and_Dress?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_50085553" data-work_id="50085553" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/50085553/Fear_or_Fashion_The_Archaeology_of_Australian_Convict_Uniforms">Fear or Fashion?: The Archaeology of Australian Convict Uniforms</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Between 1788 and 1868 Great Britain transported thousands to its penal colonies in New South Wales (Australia). During their sentence they worked as indentured labourers. Contemporary Australian cultural narrative says convicts wore... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_50085553" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Between 1788 and 1868 Great Britain transported thousands to its penal colonies in New South Wales (Australia). During their sentence they worked as indentured labourers. Contemporary Australian cultural narrative says convicts wore clothing marked prominently to denote their prisoner status. However, research into archaeological artefacts from Hyde Park Barracks in Sydney has challenged this idea, and suggested more nuanced narratives about how convicted people negotiated fear and fashion in their government-issued clothing. <br /><br />Second-offence convicts wore distinctive ‘punishment suits’, made from coarse woollen fabric that went over ordinary clothing, identifying the wearer as a convict. However, most wore everyday government-issued convict clothing, which attempted to create a uniform of penal identity. Surviving convict shirts are made from striped cotton fabric, and one does have a single black arrow stamped on it. But this arrow is discreet and marks the shirt, not the wearer. Further research into 225 scraps of convict shirts at the Barracks has shown that this convict ‘uniform’ actually fits into broader trends of British working men’s dress. The informal practices convicts built up around supposed prison clothing undermine and complicate the established narratives of the fear, control and supposed uniformity of convict ‘fashion’ in New South Wales.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/50085553" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="6acd1b8e37847fc2344de45989a2b0c1" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":68202280,"asset_id":50085553,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/68202280/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="707458" href="https://fitnyc.academia.edu/HilaryDavidson">Hilary Davidson</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="707458" type="text/json">{"id":707458,"first_name":"Hilary","last_name":"Davidson","domain_name":"fitnyc","page_name":"HilaryDavidson","display_name":"Hilary Davidson","profile_url":"https://fitnyc.academia.edu/HilaryDavidson?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/707458/892789/26849418/s65_hilary.davidson.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_50085553 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="50085553"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 50085553, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_50085553", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_50085553 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 50085553; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_50085553"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_50085553 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="50085553"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 50085553; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=50085553]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_50085553").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_50085553").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="50085553"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">8</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2473" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies">Material Culture Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2473" type="text/json">{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="18659" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Australian_History">Australian History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="18659" type="text/json">{"id":18659,"name":"Australian History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Australian_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="33457" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture">Material Culture</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="33457" type="text/json">{"id":33457,"name":"Material Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=50085553]'), work: {"id":50085553,"title":"Fear or Fashion?: The Archaeology of Australian Convict Uniforms","created_at":"2021-07-19T18:41:25.894-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/50085553/Fear_or_Fashion_The_Archaeology_of_Australian_Convict_Uniforms?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_50085553","summary":"Between 1788 and 1868 Great Britain transported thousands to its penal colonies in New South Wales (Australia). During their sentence they worked as indentured labourers. Contemporary Australian cultural narrative says convicts wore clothing marked prominently to denote their prisoner status. However, research into archaeological artefacts from Hyde Park Barracks in Sydney has challenged this idea, and suggested more nuanced narratives about how convicted people negotiated fear and fashion in their government-issued clothing. \n\nSecond-offence convicts wore distinctive ‘punishment suits’, made from coarse woollen fabric that went over ordinary clothing, identifying the wearer as a convict. However, most wore everyday government-issued convict clothing, which attempted to create a uniform of penal identity. Surviving convict shirts are made from striped cotton fabric, and one does have a single black arrow stamped on it. But this arrow is discreet and marks the shirt, not the wearer. Further research into 225 scraps of convict shirts at the Barracks has shown that this convict ‘uniform’ actually fits into broader trends of British working men’s dress. The informal practices convicts built up around supposed prison clothing undermine and complicate the established narratives of the fear, control and supposed uniformity of convict ‘fashion’ in New South Wales. \n","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":68202280,"asset_id":50085553,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":707458,"first_name":"Hilary","last_name":"Davidson","domain_name":"fitnyc","page_name":"HilaryDavidson","display_name":"Hilary Davidson","profile_url":"https://fitnyc.academia.edu/HilaryDavidson?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/707458/892789/26849418/s65_hilary.davidson.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":18659,"name":"Australian History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Australian_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":33457,"name":"Material Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":50088,"name":"Punishment and Prisons","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Punishment_and_Prisons?f_ri=1437"},{"id":128448,"name":"History of Crime and Punishment","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Crime_and_Punishment?f_ri=1437"},{"id":149100,"name":"Convicts","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Convicts?f_ri=1437"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_29597418" data-work_id="29597418" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/29597418/Animal_motifs_on_Asian_textiles_used_by_the_Greek_Church_an_afterlife_of_Byzantine_iconography">Animal motifs on Asian textiles used by the Greek Church: an afterlife of Byzantine iconography?</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/29597418" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="bb5f1e3ab20d7b5cb5c70e0e12b5dcc6" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":50038986,"asset_id":29597418,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/50038986/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="26579003" href="https://auth.academia.edu/NikolaosVryzidis">Nikolaos Vryzidis</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="26579003" type="text/json">{"id":26579003,"first_name":"Nikolaos","last_name":"Vryzidis","domain_name":"auth","page_name":"NikolaosVryzidis","display_name":"Nikolaos Vryzidis","profile_url":"https://auth.academia.edu/NikolaosVryzidis?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/26579003/7396777/38156862/s65_nikolaos.vryzidis.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_29597418 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="29597418"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 29597418, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_29597418", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_29597418 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 29597418; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_29597418"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_29597418 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="29597418"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 29597418; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=29597418]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_29597418").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_29597418").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="29597418"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">15</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2320" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles">Textiles</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2320" type="text/json">{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2986" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_culture_of_religion">Material culture of religion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2986" type="text/json">{"id":2986,"name":"Material culture of religion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_culture_of_religion?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8032" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cross-Cultural_Studies">Cross-Cultural Studies</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="8032" type="text/json">{"id":8032,"name":"Cross-Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cross-Cultural_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=29597418]'), work: {"id":29597418,"title":"Animal motifs on Asian textiles used by the Greek Church: an afterlife of Byzantine iconography?","created_at":"2016-11-01T14:03:16.423-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/29597418/Animal_motifs_on_Asian_textiles_used_by_the_Greek_Church_an_afterlife_of_Byzantine_iconography?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_29597418","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":50038986,"asset_id":29597418,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":26579003,"first_name":"Nikolaos","last_name":"Vryzidis","domain_name":"auth","page_name":"NikolaosVryzidis","display_name":"Nikolaos Vryzidis","profile_url":"https://auth.academia.edu/NikolaosVryzidis?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/26579003/7396777/38156862/s65_nikolaos.vryzidis.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2986,"name":"Material culture of religion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_culture_of_religion?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":8032,"name":"Cross-Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cross-Cultural_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":15054,"name":"Early modern cross-cultural encounters","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_modern_cross-cultural_encounters?f_ri=1437"},{"id":38193,"name":"Textiles (Art History)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles_Art_History_?f_ri=1437"},{"id":129397,"name":"Islamic textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Islamic_textiles?f_ri=1437"},{"id":251842,"name":"Interaction of cultures through the textile medium","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Interaction_of_cultures_through_the_textile_medium?f_ri=1437"},{"id":255238,"name":"Chinese textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Chinese_textiles?f_ri=1437"},{"id":256024,"name":"History and Theory of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_and_Theory_of_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":687971,"name":"Cross-Cultural Exchange In the Medieval Mediterranean","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cross-Cultural_Exchange_In_the_Medieval_Mediterranean?f_ri=1437"},{"id":689234,"name":"Afterlife of Byzantium","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Afterlife_of_Byzantium?f_ri=1437"},{"id":834779,"name":"Persian Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Persian_Textiles?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1090985,"name":"Ottoman Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ottoman_Textiles?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1321068,"name":"Byzantine Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Byzantine_Textiles?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_40014463" data-work_id="40014463" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/40014463/A_Cipher_of_A_and_C_set_on_the_one_Syde_with_diamonds_Anna_of_Denmark_s_Jewellery_and_the_Politics_of_Dynastic_Display">A ‘Cipher of A and C set on the one Syde with diamonds’: Anna of Denmark’s Jewellery and the Politics of Dynastic Display</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">This chapter discusses the ways in which figurative pieces of jewellery could function as statements of identity, allegiance, and belonging for early modern royal women. Focussing on the example of Anna of Denmark (1574-1619), queen... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_40014463" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">This chapter discusses the ways in which figurative pieces of jewellery could function as statements of identity, allegiance, and belonging for early modern royal women. Focussing on the example of Anna of Denmark (1574-1619), queen consort of King James VI and I (1566-1625), it examines extant jewellery accounts and portraits to establish patterns in her patronage and modes of representation. In so doing, it extends our understanding of the type and frequency of Anna’s jewellery purchases; arguing that she strategically used her bodily display to visualise her dynastic identity and her support for a Stuart-Habsburg marriage alliance. The possibility that this was a practice learnt at her natal court in Denmark is addressed, along with the role that jewellery played for the Stuart queen consort in the highly politicised world of gift-exchange.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/40014463" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="254187ecba23daee10dbfcd2cfca0467" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":97243353,"asset_id":40014463,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/97243353/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="3306836" href="https://yale.academia.edu/JemmaField">Jemma Field</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="3306836" type="text/json">{"id":3306836,"first_name":"Jemma","last_name":"Field","domain_name":"yale","page_name":"JemmaField","display_name":"Jemma Field","profile_url":"https://yale.academia.edu/JemmaField?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/3306836/1101873/8407494/s65_jemma.field.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_40014463 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="40014463"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 40014463, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_40014463", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_40014463 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40014463; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_40014463"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_40014463 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="40014463"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40014463; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=40014463]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_40014463").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_40014463").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="40014463"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="972" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Self_and_Identity">Self and Identity</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="972" type="text/json">{"id":972,"name":"Self and Identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Self_and_Identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5272" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Identity_Culture_">Identity (Culture)</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5272" type="text/json">{"id":5272,"name":"Identity (Culture)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Identity_Culture_?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="51306" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Jewellery">Jewellery</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="51306" type="text/json">{"id":51306,"name":"Jewellery","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Jewellery?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=40014463]'), work: {"id":40014463,"title":"A ‘Cipher of A and C set on the one Syde with diamonds’: Anna of Denmark’s Jewellery and the Politics of Dynastic Display","created_at":"2019-08-05T08:04:37.135-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/40014463/A_Cipher_of_A_and_C_set_on_the_one_Syde_with_diamonds_Anna_of_Denmark_s_Jewellery_and_the_Politics_of_Dynastic_Display?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_40014463","summary":"This chapter discusses the ways in which figurative pieces of jewellery could function as statements of identity, allegiance, and belonging for early modern royal women. Focussing on the example of Anna of Denmark (1574-1619), queen consort of King James VI and I (1566-1625), it examines extant jewellery accounts and portraits to establish patterns in her patronage and modes of representation. In so doing, it extends our understanding of the type and frequency of Anna’s jewellery purchases; arguing that she strategically used her bodily display to visualise her dynastic identity and her support for a Stuart-Habsburg marriage alliance. The possibility that this was a practice learnt at her natal court in Denmark is addressed, along with the role that jewellery played for the Stuart queen consort in the highly politicised world of gift-exchange.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":97243353,"asset_id":40014463,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":3306836,"first_name":"Jemma","last_name":"Field","domain_name":"yale","page_name":"JemmaField","display_name":"Jemma Field","profile_url":"https://yale.academia.edu/JemmaField?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/3306836/1101873/8407494/s65_jemma.field.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":972,"name":"Self and Identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Self_and_Identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":5272,"name":"Identity (Culture)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Identity_Culture_?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":51306,"name":"Jewellery","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Jewellery?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":528143,"name":"Anna of Denmark","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anna_of_Denmark?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_40014399" data-work_id="40014399" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/40014399/Dressing_a_Queen_The_Wardrobe_of_Anna_of_Denmark_at_the_Scottish_Court_of_King_James_VI_1590_1603">Dressing a Queen: The Wardrobe of Anna of Denmark at the Scottish Court of King James VI, 1590–1603</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Based on untapped archival material in the National Archives (London) and the National Records of Scotland (Edinburgh), and supplemented by a new analysis of the portraits of Anna of Denmark (1574-1619), this article provides information... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_40014399" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Based on untapped archival material in the National Archives (London) and the National Records of Scotland (Edinburgh), and supplemented by a new analysis of the portraits of Anna of Denmark (1574-1619), this article provides information about the fabrics, fashions and costs of clothing worn by the consort of James VI during her early years in Scotland. It sheds light on the Queen’s trousseau, her strategic use of clothing to demonstrate territorial, political and/or factional allegiance, and the artificers involved in the construction of the royal wardrobe. Providing details of the Stuarts’ high level of expenditure on clothing, this article highlights the political currency of the Queen’s sartorial display, and it contributes to our growing understanding of clothing at the Scottish court at the turn of the seventeenth century.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/40014399" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="948218955ec252ea87aaf0795c3ab835" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":97243284,"asset_id":40014399,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/97243284/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="3306836" href="https://yale.academia.edu/JemmaField">Jemma Field</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="3306836" type="text/json">{"id":3306836,"first_name":"Jemma","last_name":"Field","domain_name":"yale","page_name":"JemmaField","display_name":"Jemma Field","profile_url":"https://yale.academia.edu/JemmaField?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/3306836/1101873/8407494/s65_jemma.field.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_40014399 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="40014399"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 40014399, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_40014399", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_40014399 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40014399; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_40014399"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_40014399 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="40014399"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40014399; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=40014399]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_40014399").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_40014399").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="40014399"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5255" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Costume">History of Costume</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5255" type="text/json">{"id":5255,"name":"History of Costume","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Costume?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="21622" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity">Dress and identity</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="21622" type="text/json">{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="35731" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Women_and_Culture">Women and Culture</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="35731" type="text/json">{"id":35731,"name":"Women and Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Women_and_Culture?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=40014399]'), work: {"id":40014399,"title":"Dressing a Queen: The Wardrobe of Anna of Denmark at the Scottish Court of King James VI, 1590–1603","created_at":"2019-08-05T07:56:27.952-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/40014399/Dressing_a_Queen_The_Wardrobe_of_Anna_of_Denmark_at_the_Scottish_Court_of_King_James_VI_1590_1603?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_40014399","summary":"Based on untapped archival material in the National Archives (London) and the National Records of Scotland (Edinburgh), and supplemented by a new analysis of the portraits of Anna of Denmark (1574-1619), this article provides information about the fabrics, fashions and costs of clothing worn by the consort of James VI during her early years in Scotland. It sheds light on the Queen’s trousseau, her strategic use of clothing to demonstrate territorial, political and/or factional allegiance, and the artificers involved in the construction of the royal wardrobe. Providing details of the Stuarts’ high level of expenditure on clothing, this article highlights the political currency of the Queen’s sartorial display, and it contributes to our growing understanding of clothing at the Scottish court at the turn of the seventeenth century.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":97243284,"asset_id":40014399,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":3306836,"first_name":"Jemma","last_name":"Field","domain_name":"yale","page_name":"JemmaField","display_name":"Jemma Field","profile_url":"https://yale.academia.edu/JemmaField?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/3306836/1101873/8407494/s65_jemma.field.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":5255,"name":"History of Costume","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Costume?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":35731,"name":"Women and Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Women_and_Culture?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":528143,"name":"Anna of Denmark","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anna_of_Denmark?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_68595273" data-work_id="68595273" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/68595273/The_Shakespearean_Ruff">The "Shakespearean" Ruff</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">An association between Shakespeare and the Elizabethan ruff is an accepted fact in the modern Western cultural imagination. Depictions of the playwright wearing this garment are commonplace, and the ruff operates independently in popular... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_68595273" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">An association between Shakespeare and the Elizabethan ruff is an accepted fact in the modern Western cultural imagination. Depictions of the playwright wearing this garment are commonplace, and the ruff operates independently in popular culture as a symbol of “Shakespearean” qualities. This article dismantles the long-assumed Shakespeare/ruff pairing and examines the latent assumptions behind the garment’s past and present uses. First, I consider the ruff’s role as a core component of the Shakespeare “brand,” highlighting that in modern popular culture this garment has the effect of equating the “Shakespearean” with antiquation. I then show the extent to which the ruff’s internationally recognized Shakespeare associations conflict with the garment’s original, early modern uses. Elizabethan dramatists appear to have eschewed the ornamental garment in their own self-styling, and used the ruff in their plays to signal pride, excess, sexual violence, or foreignness. Finally, I scrutinize recent Shakespeare productions to ascertain how contemporary directors, designers, and dramaturgs have shaped and manipulated the ruff’s associations in performance. Several twenty-first-century stagings have featured Elizabethan costumes in an attempt to minimize problems that arise when the plays are presented out of their time, inadvertently repurposing the ruff as an indicator of historicization. However, multiple recent productions have used this iconic garment deliberately to challenge several of the ruff’s modern associations: the National Theatre’s 2017 Twelfth Night used ruffs to playfully reject ideas of “conventional” Shakespearean performance, while Shakespeare’s Globe’s contemporaneous Othello included the garment to accentuate the “schism” that emerges when a problematic historical text is reperformed today. Ultimately, this article illustrates the extent to which costume design has shaped—and continues to shape—our modern image of Shakespeare and his period.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/68595273" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="3e49d1366d710ffed32ab79aaf36f3a3" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":79021083,"asset_id":68595273,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/79021083/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="38847347" href="https://rwcmd.academia.edu/EllaHawkins">Ella Hawkins</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="38847347" type="text/json">{"id":38847347,"first_name":"Ella","last_name":"Hawkins","domain_name":"rwcmd","page_name":"EllaHawkins","display_name":"Ella Hawkins","profile_url":"https://rwcmd.academia.edu/EllaHawkins?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/38847347/15885048/35596975/s65_ella.hawkins.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_68595273 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="68595273"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 68595273, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_68595273", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_68595273 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 68595273; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_68595273"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_68595273 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="68595273"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 68595273; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=68595273]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_68595273").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_68595273").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="68595273"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">8</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1331" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design_Theatre_Studies_">Design (Theatre Studies)</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1331" type="text/json">{"id":1331,"name":"Design (Theatre Studies)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design_Theatre_Studies_?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1332" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Theatre_History">Theatre History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1332" type="text/json">{"id":1332,"name":"Theatre History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Theatre_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2337" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Performance_Studies">Performance Studies</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="2337" type="text/json">{"id":2337,"name":"Performance Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Performance_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=68595273]'), work: {"id":68595273,"title":"The \"Shakespearean\" Ruff","created_at":"2022-01-18T03:13:26.648-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/68595273/The_Shakespearean_Ruff?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_68595273","summary":"An association between Shakespeare and the Elizabethan ruff is an accepted fact in the modern Western cultural imagination. Depictions of the playwright wearing this garment are commonplace, and the ruff operates independently in popular culture as a symbol of “Shakespearean” qualities. This article dismantles the long-assumed Shakespeare/ruff pairing and examines the latent assumptions behind the garment’s past and present uses. First, I consider the ruff’s role as a core component of the Shakespeare “brand,” highlighting that in modern popular culture this garment has the effect of equating the “Shakespearean” with antiquation. I then show the extent to which the ruff’s internationally recognized Shakespeare associations conflict with the garment’s original, early modern uses. Elizabethan dramatists appear to have eschewed the ornamental garment in their own self-styling, and used the ruff in their plays to signal pride, excess, sexual violence, or foreignness. Finally, I scrutinize recent Shakespeare productions to ascertain how contemporary directors, designers, and dramaturgs have shaped and manipulated the ruff’s associations in performance. Several twenty-first-century stagings have featured Elizabethan costumes in an attempt to minimize problems that arise when the plays are presented out of their time, inadvertently repurposing the ruff as an indicator of historicization. However, multiple recent productions have used this iconic garment deliberately to challenge several of the ruff’s modern associations: the National Theatre’s 2017 Twelfth Night used ruffs to playfully reject ideas of “conventional” Shakespearean performance, while Shakespeare’s Globe’s contemporaneous Othello included the garment to accentuate the “schism” that emerges when a problematic historical text is reperformed today. Ultimately, this article illustrates the extent to which costume design has shaped—and continues to shape—our modern image of Shakespeare and his period.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":79021083,"asset_id":68595273,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":38847347,"first_name":"Ella","last_name":"Hawkins","domain_name":"rwcmd","page_name":"EllaHawkins","display_name":"Ella Hawkins","profile_url":"https://rwcmd.academia.edu/EllaHawkins?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/38847347/15885048/35596975/s65_ella.hawkins.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1331,"name":"Design (Theatre Studies)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design_Theatre_Studies_?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1332,"name":"Theatre History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Theatre_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2337,"name":"Performance Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Performance_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":3146,"name":"Shakespeare","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Shakespeare?f_ri=1437"},{"id":19456,"name":"Early Modern English drama","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_English_drama?f_ri=1437"},{"id":25973,"name":"Costume Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Costume_Design?f_ri=1437"},{"id":959905,"name":"Early Modern Clothing and Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_Clothing_and_Fashion-1?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_2369491" data-work_id="2369491" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/2369491/Propriety_Practicality_and_Pleasure_the_parameters_of_womens_dress_1000_1204">Propriety, Practicality and Pleasure: the parameters of women's dress 1000 – 1204</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/2369491" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="6c60632981a6c6ce638f1a5115074e30" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":44425780,"asset_id":2369491,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/44425780/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="2999692" href="https://independent.academia.edu/TimothyDawson">Timothy G Dawson</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="2999692" type="text/json">{"id":2999692,"first_name":"Timothy","last_name":"Dawson","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"TimothyDawson","display_name":"Timothy G Dawson","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/TimothyDawson?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/2999692/989765/39029381/s65_timothy.dawson.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_2369491 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="2369491"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 2369491, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_2369491", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_2369491 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 2369491; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_2369491"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_2369491 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="2369491"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 2369491; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=2369491]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_2369491").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_2369491").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="2369491"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">3</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1650" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Dress">Medieval Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1650" type="text/json">{"id":1650,"name":"Medieval Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10091" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Byzantine_Studies">Byzantine Studies</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="10091" type="text/json">{"id":10091,"name":"Byzantine Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Byzantine_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=2369491]'), work: {"id":2369491,"title":"Propriety, Practicality and Pleasure: the parameters of women's dress 1000 – 1204","created_at":"2013-01-06T19:17:11.914-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/2369491/Propriety_Practicality_and_Pleasure_the_parameters_of_womens_dress_1000_1204?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_2369491","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":44425780,"asset_id":2369491,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false},{"id":44425779,"asset_id":2369491,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":2999692,"first_name":"Timothy","last_name":"Dawson","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"TimothyDawson","display_name":"Timothy G Dawson","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/TimothyDawson?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/2999692/989765/39029381/s65_timothy.dawson.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1650,"name":"Medieval Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":10091,"name":"Byzantine Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Byzantine_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_69322314" data-work_id="69322314" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/69322314/Kl%C3%A4derna_och_m%C3%A4nniskan_i_medeltidens_Sverige_och_Norge">Kläderna och människan i medeltidens Sverige och Norge</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">&quot;Eva Andersson, Kläderna och människan i medeltidens Sverige och Norge. Avhandlingar från Historiska institutionen i Göteborg 47 (Göteborg 2006) 284 pages. Written in Swedish with an English summary (Clothing and the individual in... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_69322314" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">&quot;Eva Andersson, Kläderna och människan i medeltidens Sverige och Norge. Avhandlingar från Historiska institutionen i Göteborg 47 (Göteborg 2006) 284 pages. Written in Swedish with an English summary (Clothing and the individual in Mediaeval Sweden and Norway). ISBN 91-88614-60-3; ISSN 1100-6781 The manner of dress in Norway and Sweden between 1200 and 1500 is investigated in this dissertation. The main sources are Norwegian and Swedish charters, mainly wills. Clothes mentioned in them are analysed with the help of pictorial sources and preserved garments. As well as the particular garments, the complete dress and its development over time is studied. The clothing materials mentioned and changes over time are discussed. Comparison is also made with European fashion and manners of dress. Dress is also studied as an expression of social categories; how dress differed between the estates and between the sexes and how it was used to signal status and gender is examined. In this investigation the results from the first part of the dissertation is used, but also other sources, like sumptuary regulations and courtly literature. Previous research has seen the dress of the lower estates in Scandinavia as fixed and unaffected by contemporary fashion. In this dissertation it is shown that the spread of the fashionable ideal in dress reached far, both socially and geographically. The same types of garments were, to a large extent, worn by all levels of society, the difference lay in which materials they were made from. One of clothing’s most persistent functions is to express and signal differences between men and women. How this is done is, however, culture specific and changes over time. In the Middle Ages with few exceptions men and women wore the same types of garments. Primarily, gender was signalled with headgear and other items of clothing that did not emphasize the physical differences between the sexes. The question of how gender was signalled in clothing is in the dissertation tied to theories about how bodies and sex was perceived in the Middle Ages. As a result of this study we get a deeper understanding not only of the manner of dress, but also of how gender and status were perceived in mediaeval Norway and Sweden &quot;</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/69322314" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="769367" href="https://gu-se.academia.edu/EvaAndersson">Eva Andersson</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="769367" type="text/json">{"id":769367,"first_name":"Eva","last_name":"Andersson","domain_name":"gu-se","page_name":"EvaAndersson","display_name":"Eva Andersson","profile_url":"https://gu-se.academia.edu/EvaAndersson?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/769367/260509/2456349/s65_eva.andersson.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_69322314 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="69322314"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 69322314, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_69322314", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_69322314 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 69322314; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_69322314"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_69322314 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="69322314"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 69322314; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=69322314]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_69322314").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_69322314").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="69322314"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">13</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="128" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History">History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="128" type="text/json">{"id":128,"name":"History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1446" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History">Medieval History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1446" type="text/json">{"id":1446,"name":"Medieval History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=69322314]'), work: {"id":69322314,"title":"Kläderna och människan i medeltidens Sverige och Norge","created_at":"2022-01-24T00:16:48.858-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/69322314/Kl%C3%A4derna_och_m%C3%A4nniskan_i_medeltidens_Sverige_och_Norge?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_69322314","summary":"\u0026quot;Eva Andersson, Kläderna och människan i medeltidens Sverige och Norge. Avhandlingar från Historiska institutionen i Göteborg 47 (Göteborg 2006) 284 pages. Written in Swedish with an English summary (Clothing and the individual in Mediaeval Sweden and Norway). ISBN 91-88614-60-3; ISSN 1100-6781 The manner of dress in Norway and Sweden between 1200 and 1500 is investigated in this dissertation. The main sources are Norwegian and Swedish charters, mainly wills. Clothes mentioned in them are analysed with the help of pictorial sources and preserved garments. As well as the particular garments, the complete dress and its development over time is studied. The clothing materials mentioned and changes over time are discussed. Comparison is also made with European fashion and manners of dress. Dress is also studied as an expression of social categories; how dress differed between the estates and between the sexes and how it was used to signal status and gender is examined. In this investigation the results from the first part of the dissertation is used, but also other sources, like sumptuary regulations and courtly literature. Previous research has seen the dress of the lower estates in Scandinavia as fixed and unaffected by contemporary fashion. In this dissertation it is shown that the spread of the fashionable ideal in dress reached far, both socially and geographically. The same types of garments were, to a large extent, worn by all levels of society, the difference lay in which materials they were made from. One of clothing’s most persistent functions is to express and signal differences between men and women. How this is done is, however, culture specific and changes over time. In the Middle Ages with few exceptions men and women wore the same types of garments. Primarily, gender was signalled with headgear and other items of clothing that did not emphasize the physical differences between the sexes. The question of how gender was signalled in clothing is in the dissertation tied to theories about how bodies and sex was perceived in the Middle Ages. As a result of this study we get a deeper understanding not only of the manner of dress, but also of how gender and status were perceived in mediaeval Norway and Sweden \u0026quot;","downloadable_attachments":[],"ordered_authors":[{"id":769367,"first_name":"Eva","last_name":"Andersson","domain_name":"gu-se","page_name":"EvaAndersson","display_name":"Eva Andersson","profile_url":"https://gu-se.academia.edu/EvaAndersson?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/769367/260509/2456349/s65_eva.andersson.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":128,"name":"History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1446,"name":"Medieval History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":9288,"name":"Medieval Scandinavia","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Scandinavia?f_ri=1437"},{"id":27208,"name":"Social Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Social_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":77936,"name":"Text","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Text?f_ri=1437"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":292136,"name":"Crannogs","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Crannogs?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1003759,"name":"Early Medieval Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Medieval_Textiles?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1003765,"name":"Scandinavian Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Scandinavian_Textiles?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1003766,"name":"Costume Reconstruction","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Costume_Reconstruction?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1003769,"name":"Archaeology of Early Medieval Ireland and Scotland","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology_of_Early_Medieval_Ireland_and_Scotland?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_42948634" data-work_id="42948634" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/42948634/Lorenzo_Lotto_Drapery_Possessed">Lorenzo Lotto: Drapery Possessed</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">This chapter of my book "Veiled Presence" explores how Lotto's images of the clothed body communicate a novel sense of being-in-the-world. In Lotto's paintings dress or drapery is possessed in both senses of the word: it proclaims... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_42948634" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">This chapter of my book "Veiled Presence" explores how Lotto's images of the clothed body communicate a novel sense of being-in-the-world. In Lotto's paintings dress or drapery is possessed in both senses of the word: it proclaims ownership, but it is also stirred by strange animation. The intimate textiles of domestic life, including veils, kerchiefs and towels energize Lotto's smaller religious paintings, while his larger ones are enlivened by the movement of ritual drapes, such as vestments, altar cloths and curtains.  Such cloths function at times as "transitional objects", mediating between the real, the fictive and the imaginary.  Clothes disguise and drapery may hide or withold, as when a cloth is laid over a mirror.  It signals both remembering and forgetting.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/42948634" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="25a33479e0b915377b9494a58c518c5e" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":63203616,"asset_id":42948634,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/63203616/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="70970607" href="https://courtauld.academia.edu/PaulHills">Paul Hills</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="70970607" type="text/json">{"id":70970607,"first_name":"Paul","last_name":"Hills","domain_name":"courtauld","page_name":"PaulHills","display_name":"Paul Hills","profile_url":"https://courtauld.academia.edu/PaulHills?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/70970607/21797760/21097496/s65_paul.hills.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_42948634 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="42948634"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 42948634, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_42948634", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_42948634 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 42948634; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_42948634"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_42948634 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="42948634"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 42948634; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=42948634]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_42948634").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_42948634").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="42948634"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">15</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="875" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Portraits">Portraits</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="875" type="text/json">{"id":875,"name":"Portraits","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Portraits?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="13658" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body">Dress and the Body</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="13658" type="text/json">{"id":13658,"name":"Dress and the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="21622" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity">Dress and identity</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="21622" type="text/json">{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=42948634]'), work: {"id":42948634,"title":"Lorenzo Lotto: Drapery Possessed","created_at":"2020-05-05T05:16:28.583-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/42948634/Lorenzo_Lotto_Drapery_Possessed?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_42948634","summary":"This chapter of my book \"Veiled Presence\" explores how Lotto's images of the clothed body communicate a novel sense of being-in-the-world. In Lotto's paintings dress or drapery is possessed in both senses of the word: it proclaims ownership, but it is also stirred by strange animation. The intimate textiles of domestic life, including veils, kerchiefs and towels energize Lotto's smaller religious paintings, while his larger ones are enlivened by the movement of ritual drapes, such as vestments, altar cloths and curtains. Such cloths function at times as \"transitional objects\", mediating between the real, the fictive and the imaginary. Clothes disguise and drapery may hide or withold, as when a cloth is laid over a mirror. It signals both remembering and forgetting. ","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":63203616,"asset_id":42948634,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":70970607,"first_name":"Paul","last_name":"Hills","domain_name":"courtauld","page_name":"PaulHills","display_name":"Paul Hills","profile_url":"https://courtauld.academia.edu/PaulHills?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/70970607/21797760/21097496/s65_paul.hills.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":875,"name":"Portraits","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Portraits?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":13658,"name":"Dress and the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":34263,"name":"Donald W. Winnicott","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Donald_W._Winnicott?f_ri=1437"},{"id":46858,"name":"Memory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Memory?f_ri=1437"},{"id":73223,"name":"Wolfgang Iser","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Wolfgang_Iser?f_ri=1437"},{"id":96218,"name":"Venetian Renaissance art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Venetian_Renaissance_art?f_ri=1437"},{"id":119006,"name":"Shroud","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Shroud?f_ri=1437"},{"id":181821,"name":"Castiglione Baldassarre","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Castiglione_Baldassarre?f_ri=1437"},{"id":237492,"name":"Drapery","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Drapery?f_ri=1437"},{"id":321416,"name":"Lorenzo Lotto","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Lorenzo_Lotto?f_ri=1437"},{"id":533928,"name":"Proximity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Proximity?f_ri=1437"},{"id":674157,"name":"Renaissance dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Renaissance_dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2677062,"name":"Fra Bartolommeo","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fra_Bartolommeo?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_47840340" data-work_id="47840340" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/47840340/Ottoman_Design_in_the_West_A_Visual_History_of_Cultural_Exchange_by_Charlotte_A_Jirousek">Ottoman Design in the West: A Visual History of Cultural Exchange by Charlotte A. Jirousek</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/47840340" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="673aa48f4731017f6c1cbe966565bfec" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":66756302,"asset_id":47840340,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/66756302/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="8534326" href="https://bcu.academia.edu/NazliAlimen">Nazli Alimen</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="8534326" type="text/json">{"id":8534326,"first_name":"Nazli","last_name":"Alimen","domain_name":"bcu","page_name":"NazliAlimen","display_name":"Nazli Alimen","profile_url":"https://bcu.academia.edu/NazliAlimen?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/8534326/3126109/19126530/s65_nazli.alimen.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_47840340 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="47840340"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 47840340, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_47840340", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_47840340 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 47840340; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_47840340"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_47840340 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="47840340"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 47840340; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=47840340]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_47840340").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_47840340").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="47840340"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">19</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="131" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/European_History">European History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="131" type="text/json">{"id":131,"name":"European History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/European_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="383" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/European_Studies">European Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="383" type="text/json">{"id":383,"name":"European Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/European_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1187" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ottoman_History">Ottoman History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1187" type="text/json">{"id":1187,"name":"Ottoman History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ottoman_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1434" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies">Dress Studies</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1434" type="text/json">{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=47840340]'), work: {"id":47840340,"title":"Ottoman Design in the West: A Visual History of Cultural Exchange by Charlotte A. Jirousek","created_at":"2021-05-01T07:01:38.708-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/47840340/Ottoman_Design_in_the_West_A_Visual_History_of_Cultural_Exchange_by_Charlotte_A_Jirousek?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_47840340","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":66756302,"asset_id":47840340,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":8534326,"first_name":"Nazli","last_name":"Alimen","domain_name":"bcu","page_name":"NazliAlimen","display_name":"Nazli Alimen","profile_url":"https://bcu.academia.edu/NazliAlimen?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/8534326/3126109/19126530/s65_nazli.alimen.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":131,"name":"European History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/European_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":383,"name":"European Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/European_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1187,"name":"Ottoman History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ottoman_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1727,"name":"Early Modern History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":5255,"name":"History of Costume","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Costume?f_ri=1437"},{"id":7354,"name":"Early Modern Europe","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_Europe?f_ri=1437"},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":11208,"name":"Ottoman Empire","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ottoman_Empire?f_ri=1437"},{"id":24613,"name":"Costume (Art History)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Costume_Art_History_?f_ri=1437"},{"id":26558,"name":"Visual Arts","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_Arts?f_ri=1437"},{"id":28495,"name":"Islam and Christianity: relations and exchange of ideas","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Islam_and_Christianity_relations_and_exchange_of_ideas?f_ri=1437"},{"id":29426,"name":"Cultural Exchange","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Exchange?f_ri=1437"},{"id":31467,"name":"Economic and Social History of the Ottoman Empire","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Economic_and_Social_History_of_the_Ottoman_Empire?f_ri=1437"},{"id":37114,"name":"Islam and the West","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Islam_and_the_West-1?f_ri=1437"},{"id":75826,"name":"Europe","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Europe?f_ri=1437"},{"id":156119,"name":"Global Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Global_Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_1981631" data-work_id="1981631" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/1981631/Clothing_consumption_in_16th_and_17th_century_Stockholm">Clothing consumption in 16th and 17th century Stockholm</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/1981631" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="a6a1ba3c2d203c38090cd796fb4a6ac1" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":28687377,"asset_id":1981631,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/28687377/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="769367" href="https://gu-se.academia.edu/EvaAndersson">Eva Andersson</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="769367" type="text/json">{"id":769367,"first_name":"Eva","last_name":"Andersson","domain_name":"gu-se","page_name":"EvaAndersson","display_name":"Eva Andersson","profile_url":"https://gu-se.academia.edu/EvaAndersson?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/769367/260509/2456349/s65_eva.andersson.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_1981631 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="1981631"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 1981631, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_1981631", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_1981631 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 1981631; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_1981631"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_1981631 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="1981631"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 1981631; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=1981631]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_1981631").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_1981631").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="1981631"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">3</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="27395" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Swedish_History">Swedish History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="27395" type="text/json">{"id":27395,"name":"Swedish History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Swedish_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=1981631]'), work: {"id":1981631,"title":"Clothing consumption in 16th and 17th century Stockholm","created_at":"2012-09-30T02:12:12.568-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/1981631/Clothing_consumption_in_16th_and_17th_century_Stockholm?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_1981631","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":28687377,"asset_id":1981631,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":769367,"first_name":"Eva","last_name":"Andersson","domain_name":"gu-se","page_name":"EvaAndersson","display_name":"Eva Andersson","profile_url":"https://gu-se.academia.edu/EvaAndersson?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/769367/260509/2456349/s65_eva.andersson.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":27395,"name":"Swedish History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Swedish_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_39288241" data-work_id="39288241" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/39288241/Disciplining_the_Female_Student_Body_Consequential_Transference_in_Arguments_for_School_Dress_Codes">Disciplining the Female Student Body: Consequential Transference in Arguments for School Dress Codes</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Based on an examination of news coverage from 2013 to mid-2018, this article analyzes rhetoric in favor of school dress code policies. I illustrate how women’s bodies are problematized in order to manifest grounds for regulating female... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_39288241" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Based on an examination of news coverage from 2013 to mid-2018, this article analyzes rhetoric in favor of school dress code policies. I illustrate how women’s bodies are problematized in order to manifest<br />grounds for regulating female attire. By employing pragmatic lines of argument, pro-dress code rhetors foster what I term consequential transference. Because pragmatic arguments rely on identifying consequences, questions of agency are implicit, as presuppositions of who is responsible for the consequences are embedded into the fabric of the discourse. In this case, dress code defenders paint female immodesty as responsible for several harmful potentialities, including negative social judgments, sexual harassment, and the distraction of male students in the classroom. I assert that pragmatic argumentation is a serviceable tool for underwriting misogynistic culture because consequential transference warrants female regulation and punishment by diminishing the accountability of other actors.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/39288241" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="c88fc4ffa53c3381613173cdd8ee09c3" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":59424795,"asset_id":39288241,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/59424795/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="24841963" href="https://uark.academia.edu/MeredithNevilleShepard">Meredith Neville-Shepard</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="24841963" type="text/json">{"id":24841963,"first_name":"Meredith","last_name":"Neville-Shepard","domain_name":"uark","page_name":"MeredithNevilleShepard","display_name":"Meredith Neville-Shepard","profile_url":"https://uark.academia.edu/MeredithNevilleShepard?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/24841963/9818505/125763040/s65_meredith.neville-shepard.jpeg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_39288241 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="39288241"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 39288241, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_39288241", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_39288241 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 39288241; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_39288241"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_39288241 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="39288241"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 39288241; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=39288241]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_39288241").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_39288241").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="39288241"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">20</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="859" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Communication">Communication</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="859" type="text/json">{"id":859,"name":"Communication","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Communication?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="953" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Rhetoric">Rhetoric</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="953" type="text/json">{"id":953,"name":"Rhetoric","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Rhetoric?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1138" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies">Women's Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1138" type="text/json">{"id":1138,"name":"Women's Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1192" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Feminist_Theory">Feminist Theory</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1192" type="text/json">{"id":1192,"name":"Feminist Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Feminist_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=39288241]'), work: {"id":39288241,"title":"Disciplining the Female Student Body: Consequential Transference in Arguments for School Dress Codes","created_at":"2019-05-28T09:31:27.313-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/39288241/Disciplining_the_Female_Student_Body_Consequential_Transference_in_Arguments_for_School_Dress_Codes?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_39288241","summary":"Based on an examination of news coverage from 2013 to mid-2018, this article analyzes rhetoric in favor of school dress code policies. I illustrate how women’s bodies are problematized in order to manifest\ngrounds for regulating female attire. By employing pragmatic lines of argument, pro-dress code rhetors foster what I term consequential transference. Because pragmatic arguments rely on identifying consequences, questions of agency are implicit, as presuppositions of who is responsible for the consequences are embedded into the fabric of the discourse. In this case, dress code defenders paint female immodesty as responsible for several harmful potentialities, including negative social judgments, sexual harassment, and the distraction of male students in the classroom. I assert that pragmatic argumentation is a serviceable tool for underwriting misogynistic culture because consequential transference warrants female regulation and punishment by diminishing the accountability of other actors.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":59424795,"asset_id":39288241,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":24841963,"first_name":"Meredith","last_name":"Neville-Shepard","domain_name":"uark","page_name":"MeredithNevilleShepard","display_name":"Meredith Neville-Shepard","profile_url":"https://uark.academia.edu/MeredithNevilleShepard?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/24841963/9818505/125763040/s65_meredith.neville-shepard.jpeg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":859,"name":"Communication","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Communication?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":953,"name":"Rhetoric","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Rhetoric?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1138,"name":"Women's Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1192,"name":"Feminist Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Feminist_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":4586,"name":"Women's Rights","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Rights?f_ri=1437"},{"id":4958,"name":"Bodies and Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Bodies_and_Culture?f_ri=1437"},{"id":8612,"name":"Argumentation","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Argumentation?f_ri=1437"},{"id":8882,"name":"Women","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Women?f_ri=1437"},{"id":9477,"name":"Rhetorical Criticism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Rhetorical_Criticism?f_ri=1437"},{"id":10453,"name":"Feminism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Feminism?f_ri=1437"},{"id":13658,"name":"Dress and the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body?f_ri=1437"},{"id":23036,"name":"Argumentation Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Argumentation_Theory?f_ri=1437"},{"id":38503,"name":"Politics of the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Politics_of_the_Body?f_ri=1437"},{"id":39673,"name":"Feminism and Social Justice","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Feminism_and_Social_Justice?f_ri=1437"},{"id":49663,"name":"Women and Gender Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Women_and_Gender_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":359325,"name":"CHAÏM PERELMAN","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/CHA%C3%8FM_PERELMAN?f_ri=1437"},{"id":548826,"name":"Dress codes","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_codes?f_ri=1437"},{"id":592917,"name":"Female body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Female_body?f_ri=1437"},{"id":615894,"name":"Victim Blaming","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Victim_Blaming?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_39820119" data-work_id="39820119" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/39820119/The_Mobility_of_People_and_Things_in_the_Early_Modern_Mediterranean_The_Art_of_Travel_Ed_Elisabeth_A_Fraser_Paperback_edition_now_available">The Mobility of People and Things in the Early Modern Mediterranean: The Art of Travel. Ed. Elisabeth A. Fraser. Paperback edition now available.</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">For centuries artists, diplomats, and merchants served as cultural intermediaries in the Mediterranean. Stationed in port cities and other entrepôts of the Mediterranean, these go-betweens forged intercultural connections even as they... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_39820119" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">For centuries artists, diplomats, and merchants served as cultural intermediaries in the Mediterranean. Stationed in port cities and other entrepôts of the Mediterranean, these go-betweens forged intercultural connections even as they negotiated and sometimes promoted cultural misunderstandings. They also moved objects of all kinds across time and space. This volume considers how the mobility of art and material culture is intertwined with greater Mediterranean networks from 1580 to 1880. Contributors see the movement of people and objects as transformational, emphasizing the trajectory of objects over single points of origin, multiplicity over unity, and mutability over stasis.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/39820119" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="059815d00a465219695a0af2847cdef7" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":60006265,"asset_id":39820119,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/60006265/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="5145257" href="https://usf.academia.edu/ElisabethFraser">Elisabeth Fraser</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="5145257" type="text/json">{"id":5145257,"first_name":"Elisabeth","last_name":"Fraser","domain_name":"usf","page_name":"ElisabethFraser","display_name":"Elisabeth Fraser","profile_url":"https://usf.academia.edu/ElisabethFraser?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/5145257/2268810/2651502/s65_elisabeth.fraser.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_39820119 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="39820119"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 39820119, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_39820119", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_39820119 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 39820119; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_39820119"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_39820119 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="39820119"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 39820119; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=39820119]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_39820119").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_39820119").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="39820119"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">20</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="915" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History">Art History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="915" type="text/json">{"id":915,"name":"Art History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1187" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ottoman_History">Ottoman History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1187" type="text/json">{"id":1187,"name":"Ottoman History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ottoman_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1589" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Photography">Photography</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1589" type="text/json">{"id":1589,"name":"Photography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Photography?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=39820119]'), work: {"id":39820119,"title":"The Mobility of People and Things in the Early Modern Mediterranean: The Art of Travel. Ed. Elisabeth A. Fraser. Paperback edition now available.","created_at":"2019-07-14T09:44:23.253-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/39820119/The_Mobility_of_People_and_Things_in_the_Early_Modern_Mediterranean_The_Art_of_Travel_Ed_Elisabeth_A_Fraser_Paperback_edition_now_available?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_39820119","summary":"For centuries artists, diplomats, and merchants served as cultural intermediaries in the Mediterranean. Stationed in port cities and other entrepôts of the Mediterranean, these go-betweens forged intercultural connections even as they negotiated and sometimes promoted cultural misunderstandings. They also moved objects of all kinds across time and space. This volume considers how the mobility of art and material culture is intertwined with greater Mediterranean networks from 1580 to 1880. Contributors see the movement of people and objects as transformational, emphasizing the trajectory of objects over single points of origin, multiplicity over unity, and mutability over stasis.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":60006265,"asset_id":39820119,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":5145257,"first_name":"Elisabeth","last_name":"Fraser","domain_name":"usf","page_name":"ElisabethFraser","display_name":"Elisabeth Fraser","profile_url":"https://usf.academia.edu/ElisabethFraser?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/5145257/2268810/2651502/s65_elisabeth.fraser.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":915,"name":"Art History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1187,"name":"Ottoman History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ottoman_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1589,"name":"Photography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Photography?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1629,"name":"French Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/French_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2016,"name":"Middle East \u0026 North Africa","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Middle_East_and_North_Africa?f_ri=1437"},{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3180,"name":"International Trade","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/International_Trade?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3999,"name":"Coffee","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Coffee?f_ri=1437"},{"id":5255,"name":"History of Costume","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Costume?f_ri=1437"},{"id":5256,"name":"History of Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles?f_ri=1437"},{"id":6283,"name":"History of Slavery","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Slavery?f_ri=1437"},{"id":6952,"name":"Mediterranean Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Mediterranean_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":8916,"name":"Islamic Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Islamic_Art?f_ri=1437"},{"id":9071,"name":"Embroidery","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Embroidery?f_ri=1437"},{"id":13334,"name":"Global History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Global_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":27363,"name":"Poland","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Poland?f_ri=1437"},{"id":29565,"name":"Persian Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Persian_Culture?f_ri=1437"},{"id":58998,"name":"Transcultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Transcultural_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":62467,"name":"Piracy","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Piracy?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_22782505" data-work_id="22782505" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/22782505/Kirsti_Kasnio_muodin_arkkitehti">Kirsti Kasnio muodin arkkitehti</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Kirsti Kasnio (1937–2014) became a fashion designer at the mature age of over 50 years after having worked as an architect and a scenographer. This study sought answers to the following questions: 1) What is the relationship between... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_22782505" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Kirsti Kasnio (1937–2014) became a fashion designer at the mature age of over 50 years after having worked as an architect and a scenographer. This study sought answers to the following questions:<br />1) What is the relationship between fashion and architecture in the designer’s thoughts and work?<br />2) What was Kirsti Kasnio’s inspiration for her fashion creations, and how did she sketch them?<br />3) How were the pleated dresses constructed, and what was their shape? <br />In order to answer these questions, I used a case study strategy with several corpora of data and different types of analysis. A brief look into Kirsti Kasnio’s family background and her work as an architect and scenographer helps to understand why her fashion career started so late.  <br />One important corpus of data consists of in-depth interviews and other discussions with Kirsti Kasnio. Other corpora of data consist of sketches, pictures used for inspiration, photographs taken by Kasnio herself during her design process, photographs of finished creations taken by professional photographers, media data from newspapers, magazines, and a TV program. The last but not least important corpus consists of her fashion creations. The five analyzed dresses represent well the core of Kasnio’s fashion and her work, as she wanted it to be seen.<br /><br />Tutkimuksessa on kysymys arkkitehti-lavastaja-muotisuunnittelija Kirsti Kasnion (1937–2014) työstä erityisesti sinä aikana, jolloin hän toimi muotisuunnittelijana 2000-luvulla. Kirsti Kasnion suunnittelutyön kohteita olivat ylelliset turkisasusteet sekä ilta- ja muut juhlapuvut, joiden tunnusomainen valmistustekniikka oli pliseeraus.<br />Tutkimus etsii vastausta kysymyksiin:<br />1) Millainen oli muodin ja arkkitehtuurin yhteys arkkitehti-muotisuunnittelijan ajatuksissa ja töissä? <br />2) Millainen oli muotisuunnittelija Kirsti Kasnion suunnitteluprosessi ja luonnostelutapa? <br />3) Millainen on Kirsti Kasnion omaperäisten pliseerattujen pukujen muoto ja rakenne?<br />Tutkimus sivuaa suppeasti myös Kirsti Kasnion perhetaustaa, työtä arkkitehtinä ja lavastajana sekä muotiyrityksen toiminnan periaatteita ja turkissuunnittelua.<br />Kyseessä on tapaustutkimus, jonka aineistoina ovat haastattelut, media-aineisto, konkreettiset puvut sekä arkistoaineisto, johon kuuluu runsaasti suunnittelijan piirtämiä luonnoksia, puvuis-ta otettuja valokuvia sekä kirjoitettuja dokumentteja.<br /><br />avainsanat<br /><br />arkkitehtuuri, lavastus, muoti, vaatteet, suunnittelu, luonnokset, pliseeraus, turkikset<br /><br />architecture, scenography, fashion, clothing, design, sketching, pleating, fur</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/22782505" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="46b9060419078520e4020360cef524b5" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":43337584,"asset_id":22782505,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/43337584/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="44318232" href="https://helsinki.academia.edu/RitvaKoskennurmiSivonen">Ritva Koskennurmi-Sivonen</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="44318232" type="text/json">{"id":44318232,"first_name":"Ritva","last_name":"Koskennurmi-Sivonen","domain_name":"helsinki","page_name":"RitvaKoskennurmiSivonen","display_name":"Ritva Koskennurmi-Sivonen","profile_url":"https://helsinki.academia.edu/RitvaKoskennurmiSivonen?f_ri=1437","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_22782505 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="22782505"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 22782505, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_22782505", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_22782505 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 22782505; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_22782505"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_22782505 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="22782505"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 22782505; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=22782505]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_22782505").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_22782505").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="22782505"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1094" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design">Fashion design</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1094" type="text/json">{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1434" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies">Dress Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1434" type="text/json">{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=22782505]'), work: {"id":22782505,"title":"Kirsti Kasnio muodin arkkitehti","created_at":"2016-03-03T21:35:24.096-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/22782505/Kirsti_Kasnio_muodin_arkkitehti?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_22782505","summary":"Kirsti Kasnio (1937–2014) became a fashion designer at the mature age of over 50 years after having worked as an architect and a scenographer. This study sought answers to the following questions:\n1) What is the relationship between fashion and architecture in the designer’s thoughts and work?\n2) What was Kirsti Kasnio’s inspiration for her fashion creations, and how did she sketch them?\n3) How were the pleated dresses constructed, and what was their shape? \nIn order to answer these questions, I used a case study strategy with several corpora of data and different types of analysis. A brief look into Kirsti Kasnio’s family background and her work as an architect and scenographer helps to understand why her fashion career started so late. \nOne important corpus of data consists of in-depth interviews and other discussions with Kirsti Kasnio. Other corpora of data consist of sketches, pictures used for inspiration, photographs taken by Kasnio herself during her design process, photographs of finished creations taken by professional photographers, media data from newspapers, magazines, and a TV program. The last but not least important corpus consists of her fashion creations. The five analyzed dresses represent well the core of Kasnio’s fashion and her work, as she wanted it to be seen.\n\nTutkimuksessa on kysymys arkkitehti-lavastaja-muotisuunnittelija Kirsti Kasnion (1937–2014) työstä erityisesti sinä aikana, jolloin hän toimi muotisuunnittelijana 2000-luvulla. Kirsti Kasnion suunnittelutyön kohteita olivat ylelliset turkisasusteet sekä ilta- ja muut juhlapuvut, joiden tunnusomainen valmistustekniikka oli pliseeraus.\nTutkimus etsii vastausta kysymyksiin:\n1) Millainen oli muodin ja arkkitehtuurin yhteys arkkitehti-muotisuunnittelijan ajatuksissa ja töissä? \n2) Millainen oli muotisuunnittelija Kirsti Kasnion suunnitteluprosessi ja luonnostelutapa? \n3) Millainen on Kirsti Kasnion omaperäisten pliseerattujen pukujen muoto ja rakenne?\nTutkimus sivuaa suppeasti myös Kirsti Kasnion perhetaustaa, työtä arkkitehtinä ja lavastajana sekä muotiyrityksen toiminnan periaatteita ja turkissuunnittelua.\nKyseessä on tapaustutkimus, jonka aineistoina ovat haastattelut, media-aineisto, konkreettiset puvut sekä arkistoaineisto, johon kuuluu runsaasti suunnittelijan piirtämiä luonnoksia, puvuis-ta otettuja valokuvia sekä kirjoitettuja dokumentteja.\n\navainsanat\n\narkkitehtuuri, lavastus, muoti, vaatteet, suunnittelu, luonnokset, pliseeraus, turkikset\n\narchitecture, scenography, fashion, clothing, design, sketching, pleating, fur\n\n\n","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":43337584,"asset_id":22782505,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":44318232,"first_name":"Ritva","last_name":"Koskennurmi-Sivonen","domain_name":"helsinki","page_name":"RitvaKoskennurmiSivonen","display_name":"Ritva Koskennurmi-Sivonen","profile_url":"https://helsinki.academia.edu/RitvaKoskennurmiSivonen?f_ri=1437","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_6930342" data-work_id="6930342" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/6930342/History_of_Dress_The_Western_World_and_Greece_from_Prehistoric_Times_until_the_Renaissance_In_Greek_%CE%99%CF%83%CF%84%CE%BF%CF%81%CE%AF%CE%B1_%CF%84%CE%B7%CF%82_%CE%95%CE%BD%CE%B4%CF%85%CE%BC%CE%B1%CF%83%CE%AF%CE%B1%CF%82_%CE%9F_%CE%94%CF%85%CF%84%CE%B9%CE%BA%CF%8C%CF%82_%CE%9A%CF%8C%CF%83%CE%BC%CE%BF%CF%82_%CE%BA%CE%B1%CE%B9_%CE%B7_%CE%95%CE%BB%CE%BB%CE%AC%CE%B4%CE%B1_%CE%B1%CF%80%CF%8C_%CF%84%CE%BF%CF%85%CF%82_%CE%A0%CF%81%CE%BF%CF%8A%CF%83%CF%84%CE%BF%CF%81%CE%B9%CE%BA%CE%BF%CF%8D%CF%82_%CE%A7%CF%81%CF%8C%CE%BD%CE%BF%CF%85%CF%82_%CF%89%CF%82_%CF%84%CE%B7%CE%BD_%CE%91%CE%BD%CE%B1%CE%B3%CE%AD%CE%BD%CE%BD%CE%B7%CF%83%CE%B7">History of Dress - The Western World and Greece from Prehistoric Times until the Renaissance (In Greek: Ιστορία της Ενδυμασίας - Ο Δυτικός Κόσμος και η Ελλάδα από τους Προϊστορικούς Χρόνους ως την Αναγέννηση</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/6930342" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="ec2265daa1988abfbe7643322066e8db" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":33603868,"asset_id":6930342,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/33603868/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="679614" href="https://aalto-fi.academia.edu/SofiaPantouvaki">Sofia Pantouvaki</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="679614" type="text/json">{"id":679614,"first_name":"Sofia","last_name":"Pantouvaki","domain_name":"aalto-fi","page_name":"SofiaPantouvaki","display_name":"Sofia Pantouvaki","profile_url":"https://aalto-fi.academia.edu/SofiaPantouvaki?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/679614/839105/1042375/s65_sofia.pantouvaki.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_6930342 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="6930342"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 6930342, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_6930342", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_6930342 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 6930342; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_6930342"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_6930342 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="6930342"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 6930342; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=6930342]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_6930342").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_6930342").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="6930342"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">8</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="828" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Greek_History">Greek History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="828" type="text/json">{"id":828,"name":"Greek History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Greek_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1094" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design">Fashion design</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1094" type="text/json">{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1434" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies">Dress Studies</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1434" type="text/json">{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=6930342]'), work: {"id":6930342,"title":"History of Dress - The Western World and Greece from Prehistoric Times until the Renaissance (In Greek: Ιστορία της Ενδυμασίας - Ο Δυτικός Κόσμος και η Ελλάδα από τους Προϊστορικούς Χρόνους ως την Αναγέννηση","created_at":"2014-05-01T05:52:14.003-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/6930342/History_of_Dress_The_Western_World_and_Greece_from_Prehistoric_Times_until_the_Renaissance_In_Greek_%CE%99%CF%83%CF%84%CE%BF%CF%81%CE%AF%CE%B1_%CF%84%CE%B7%CF%82_%CE%95%CE%BD%CE%B4%CF%85%CE%BC%CE%B1%CF%83%CE%AF%CE%B1%CF%82_%CE%9F_%CE%94%CF%85%CF%84%CE%B9%CE%BA%CF%8C%CF%82_%CE%9A%CF%8C%CF%83%CE%BC%CE%BF%CF%82_%CE%BA%CE%B1%CE%B9_%CE%B7_%CE%95%CE%BB%CE%BB%CE%AC%CE%B4%CE%B1_%CE%B1%CF%80%CF%8C_%CF%84%CE%BF%CF%85%CF%82_%CE%A0%CF%81%CE%BF%CF%8A%CF%83%CF%84%CE%BF%CF%81%CE%B9%CE%BA%CE%BF%CF%8D%CF%82_%CE%A7%CF%81%CF%8C%CE%BD%CE%BF%CF%85%CF%82_%CF%89%CF%82_%CF%84%CE%B7%CE%BD_%CE%91%CE%BD%CE%B1%CE%B3%CE%AD%CE%BD%CE%BD%CE%B7%CF%83%CE%B7?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_6930342","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":33603868,"asset_id":6930342,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":679614,"first_name":"Sofia","last_name":"Pantouvaki","domain_name":"aalto-fi","page_name":"SofiaPantouvaki","display_name":"Sofia Pantouvaki","profile_url":"https://aalto-fi.academia.edu/SofiaPantouvaki?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/679614/839105/1042375/s65_sofia.pantouvaki.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":828,"name":"Greek History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Greek_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":48044,"name":"Greece","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Greece?f_ri=1437"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_12892397" data-work_id="12892397" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/12892397/Hva_gj%C3%B8r_gjenstandsbiografien_refleksjoner_rundt_en_brokadkjole_og_dens_tider_2015_">Hva gjør gjenstandsbiografien? - refleksjoner rundt en brokadkjole og dens tider (2015)</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/12892397" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="c7666f673a9ef02bb01760ae752876b9" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":37868881,"asset_id":12892397,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/37868881/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="4370838" href="https://tmforsk.academia.edu/AnneSofieHjemdahl">Anne-Sofie Hjemdahl</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="4370838" type="text/json">{"id":4370838,"first_name":"Anne-Sofie","last_name":"Hjemdahl","domain_name":"tmforsk","page_name":"AnneSofieHjemdahl","display_name":"Anne-Sofie Hjemdahl","profile_url":"https://tmforsk.academia.edu/AnneSofieHjemdahl?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/4370838/1765220/2109323/s65_anne-sofie.hjemdahl.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_12892397 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="12892397"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 12892397, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_12892397", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_12892397 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 12892397; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_12892397"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_12892397 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="12892397"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 12892397; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=12892397]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_12892397").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_12892397").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="12892397"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">6</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2473" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies">Material Culture Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2473" type="text/json">{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="3148" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Actor_Network_Theory">Actor Network Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="3148" type="text/json">{"id":3148,"name":"Actor Network Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Actor_Network_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="7063" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Museums">History of Museums</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="7063" type="text/json">{"id":7063,"name":"History of Museums","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Museums?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=12892397]'), work: {"id":12892397,"title":"Hva gjør gjenstandsbiografien? - refleksjoner rundt en brokadkjole og dens tider (2015)","created_at":"2015-06-09T14:29:46.470-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/12892397/Hva_gj%C3%B8r_gjenstandsbiografien_refleksjoner_rundt_en_brokadkjole_og_dens_tider_2015_?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_12892397","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":37868881,"asset_id":12892397,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":4370838,"first_name":"Anne-Sofie","last_name":"Hjemdahl","domain_name":"tmforsk","page_name":"AnneSofieHjemdahl","display_name":"Anne-Sofie Hjemdahl","profile_url":"https://tmforsk.academia.edu/AnneSofieHjemdahl?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/4370838/1765220/2109323/s65_anne-sofie.hjemdahl.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":3148,"name":"Actor Network Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Actor_Network_Theory?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":7063,"name":"History of Museums","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Museums?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":13658,"name":"Dress and the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body?f_ri=1437"},{"id":24016,"name":"Museology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Museology?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_45145865" data-work_id="45145865" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/45145865/The_Journal_of_Dress_History_Volume_2_Issue_3_Autumn">The Journal of Dress History Volume 2 Issue 3 Autumn</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/45145865" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="8685127e43a12e59e249ee1699386467" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":65719306,"asset_id":45145865,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/65719306/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="148933644" href="https://nottingham.academia.edu/LauraP%C3%A9rezHern%C3%A1ndez">Laura Pérez Hernández</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="148933644" type="text/json">{"id":148933644,"first_name":"Laura","last_name":"Pérez Hernández","domain_name":"nottingham","page_name":"LauraPérezHernández","display_name":"Laura Pérez Hernández","profile_url":"https://nottingham.academia.edu/LauraP%C3%A9rezHern%C3%A1ndez?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/148933644/98237246/120293199/s65_laura.p_rez_hern_ndez.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_45145865 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="45145865"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 45145865, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_45145865", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_45145865 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 45145865; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_45145865"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_45145865 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="45145865"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 45145865; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=45145865]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_45145865").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_45145865").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="45145865"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">2</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="21622" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity">Dress and identity</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="21622" type="text/json">{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=45145865]'), work: {"id":45145865,"title":"The Journal of Dress History Volume 2 Issue 3 Autumn","created_at":"2021-02-18T02:25:59.010-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/45145865/The_Journal_of_Dress_History_Volume_2_Issue_3_Autumn?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_45145865","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":65719306,"asset_id":45145865,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":148933644,"first_name":"Laura","last_name":"Pérez Hernández","domain_name":"nottingham","page_name":"LauraPérezHernández","display_name":"Laura Pérez Hernández","profile_url":"https://nottingham.academia.edu/LauraP%C3%A9rezHern%C3%A1ndez?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/148933644/98237246/120293199/s65_laura.p_rez_hern_ndez.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_11051465" data-work_id="11051465" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/11051465/Black_and_the_Royal_Image">Black and the Royal Image</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/11051465" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="feefdab9d0a7a286d01fccf8fe5e8141" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":36757259,"asset_id":11051465,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/36757259/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="12949430" href="https://ceeh.academia.edu/Jos%C3%A9LuisColomer">José Luis Colomer</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="12949430" type="text/json">{"id":12949430,"first_name":"José Luis","last_name":"Colomer","domain_name":"ceeh","page_name":"JoséLuisColomer","display_name":"José Luis Colomer","profile_url":"https://ceeh.academia.edu/Jos%C3%A9LuisColomer?f_ri=1437","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_11051465 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="11051465"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 11051465, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_11051465", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_11051465 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 11051465; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_11051465"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_11051465 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="11051465"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 11051465; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=11051465]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_11051465").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_11051465").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="11051465"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">18</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="6633" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Habsburg_Studies">Habsburg Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="6633" type="text/json">{"id":6633,"name":"Habsburg Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Habsburg_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="21622" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity">Dress and identity</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="21622" type="text/json">{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=11051465]'), work: {"id":11051465,"title":"Black and the Royal Image","created_at":"2015-02-24T09:30:51.401-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/11051465/Black_and_the_Royal_Image?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_11051465","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":36757259,"asset_id":11051465,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":12949430,"first_name":"José Luis","last_name":"Colomer","domain_name":"ceeh","page_name":"JoséLuisColomer","display_name":"José Luis Colomer","profile_url":"https://ceeh.academia.edu/Jos%C3%A9LuisColomer?f_ri=1437","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":6633,"name":"Habsburg Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Habsburg_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":42064,"name":"Charles V","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Charles_V?f_ri=1437"},{"id":75368,"name":"Philip IV","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Philip_IV?f_ri=1437"},{"id":76714,"name":"Color","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Color?f_ri=1437"},{"id":113518,"name":"Color Psychology and Use of Colour","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Color_Psychology_and_Use_of_Colour?f_ri=1437"},{"id":395874,"name":"Felipe IV","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Felipe_IV?f_ri=1437"},{"id":416127,"name":"Court Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Court_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":441725,"name":"Felipe III","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Felipe_III?f_ri=1437"},{"id":513728,"name":"Philip III of Spain","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Philip_III_of_Spain?f_ri=1437"},{"id":524509,"name":"Protocol and etiquette","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Protocol_and_etiquette?f_ri=1437"},{"id":540484,"name":"Habsburgs","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Habsburgs?f_ri=1437"},{"id":594838,"name":"Philip II of Spain","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Philip_II_of_Spain?f_ri=1437"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":822808,"name":"Emperor Charles V","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Emperor_Charles_V?f_ri=1437"},{"id":908458,"name":"Spanish Habsburgs","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Spanish_Habsburgs?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_43706033" data-work_id="43706033" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/43706033/The_Historiography_of_Women_s_Fashion_from_1942_1955">The Historiography of Women’s Fashion from 1942-1955</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Fashion from 1942 to 1955 responded to World War II and Postwar USA in a way that became a reflection of a new American ideology. Fashion became a form of reflecting ones patriotism. These Utility styles and military uniforms offered... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_43706033" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Fashion from 1942 to 1955 responded to World War II and Postwar USA in a way that became a reflection of a new American ideology. Fashion became a form of reflecting ones patriotism. These Utility styles and military uniforms offered strict guidelines for the rationing of fashion in wartime while simultaneously creating feminine styles women could make themselves. Postwar fashion attitudes responded to restrictions with the “rebel” and “beatnik” styles of the 1950s. Europe designers Christian Dior and Coco Chanel developed new styles later sold in New York department stores that were used for Hollywood films. Historical analyses of reputable scholars are used in both sociology of fashion and historical observation of the varying styles from wartime to postwar America. This essay seeks to establish the meaning behind these fashions and their significance in relation to the ideology and response to major world events from the women who wore them.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/43706033" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="b538dbfe5d7a3ee5719fbbf3278d8656" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":64011562,"asset_id":43706033,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/64011562/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="142007897" href="https://eou.academia.edu/TabathaGroveDow">Tabatha Grove-Dow</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="142007897" type="text/json">{"id":142007897,"first_name":"Tabatha","last_name":"Grove-Dow","domain_name":"eou","page_name":"TabathaGroveDow","display_name":"Tabatha Grove-Dow","profile_url":"https://eou.academia.edu/TabathaGroveDow?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/142007897/41248181/35777685/s65_tabatha.grove-dow.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_43706033 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="43706033"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 43706033, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_43706033", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_43706033 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 43706033; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_43706033"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_43706033 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="43706033"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 43706033; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=43706033]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_43706033").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_43706033").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="43706033"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">9</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1138" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies">Women's Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1138" type="text/json">{"id":1138,"name":"Women's Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="78983" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/WWII">WWII</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="78983" type="text/json">{"id":78983,"name":"WWII","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/WWII?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="267722" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/WWII_intelligence">WWII intelligence</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="267722" type="text/json">{"id":267722,"name":"WWII intelligence","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/WWII_intelligence?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=43706033]'), work: {"id":43706033,"title":"The Historiography of Women’s Fashion from 1942-1955","created_at":"2020-07-24T14:59:58.715-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/43706033/The_Historiography_of_Women_s_Fashion_from_1942_1955?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_43706033","summary":"Fashion from 1942 to 1955 responded to World War II and Postwar USA in a way that became a reflection of a new American ideology. Fashion became a form of reflecting ones patriotism. These Utility styles and military uniforms offered strict guidelines for the rationing of fashion in wartime while simultaneously creating feminine styles women could make themselves. Postwar fashion attitudes responded to restrictions with the “rebel” and “beatnik” styles of the 1950s. Europe designers Christian Dior and Coco Chanel developed new styles later sold in New York department stores that were used for Hollywood films. Historical analyses of reputable scholars are used in both sociology of fashion and historical observation of the varying styles from wartime to postwar America. This essay seeks to establish the meaning behind these fashions and their significance in relation to the ideology and response to major world events from the women who wore them.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":64011562,"asset_id":43706033,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":142007897,"first_name":"Tabatha","last_name":"Grove-Dow","domain_name":"eou","page_name":"TabathaGroveDow","display_name":"Tabatha Grove-Dow","profile_url":"https://eou.academia.edu/TabathaGroveDow?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/142007897/41248181/35777685/s65_tabatha.grove-dow.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1138,"name":"Women's Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":78983,"name":"WWII","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/WWII?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":267722,"name":"WWII intelligence","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/WWII_intelligence?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":508417,"name":"1950s Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/1950s_Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":567670,"name":"Fashion and Identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_and_Identity?f_ri=1437"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1288362,"name":"Womens History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_History-22?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3722248,"name":"1940s fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/1940s_fashion?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_36087231" data-work_id="36087231" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/36087231/Clothing_the_Archbishop_Church_Dress_and_Vestments_in_Ravenna_between_Late_Antiquity_and_the_Middle_Ages">Clothing the Archbishop: Church Dress and Vestments in Ravenna between Late Antiquity and the Middle Ages</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/36087231" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="73ce630a1cabf7ac2522423fafe10108" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":55976451,"asset_id":36087231,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/55976451/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="541379" href="https://unibo.academia.edu/MariaCristinaCarile">Maria Cristina Carile</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="541379" type="text/json">{"id":541379,"first_name":"Maria Cristina","last_name":"Carile","domain_name":"unibo","page_name":"MariaCristinaCarile","display_name":"Maria Cristina Carile","profile_url":"https://unibo.academia.edu/MariaCristinaCarile?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/541379/194432/3127265/s65_m.cristina.carile.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_36087231 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="36087231"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 36087231, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_36087231", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_36087231 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 36087231; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_36087231"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_36087231 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="36087231"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 36087231; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=36087231]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_36087231").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_36087231").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="36087231"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">9</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="136" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History">Cultural History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="136" type="text/json">{"id":136,"name":"Cultural History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="991" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Late_Antique_and_Byzantine_Studies">Late Antique and Byzantine Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="991" type="text/json">{"id":991,"name":"Late Antique and Byzantine Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Late_Antique_and_Byzantine_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="21622" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity">Dress and identity</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="21622" type="text/json">{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=36087231]'), work: {"id":36087231,"title":"Clothing the Archbishop: Church Dress and Vestments in Ravenna between Late Antiquity and the Middle Ages","created_at":"2018-03-06T00:16:28.794-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/36087231/Clothing_the_Archbishop_Church_Dress_and_Vestments_in_Ravenna_between_Late_Antiquity_and_the_Middle_Ages?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_36087231","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":55976451,"asset_id":36087231,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":541379,"first_name":"Maria Cristina","last_name":"Carile","domain_name":"unibo","page_name":"MariaCristinaCarile","display_name":"Maria Cristina Carile","profile_url":"https://unibo.academia.edu/MariaCristinaCarile?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/541379/194432/3127265/s65_m.cristina.carile.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":136,"name":"Cultural History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":991,"name":"Late Antique and Byzantine Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Late_Antique_and_Byzantine_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":81373,"name":"Ravenna","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ravenna?f_ri=1437"},{"id":99656,"name":"San Vitale Ravenna","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/San_Vitale_Ravenna?f_ri=1437"},{"id":125431,"name":"Byzantine art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Byzantine_art?f_ri=1437"},{"id":267812,"name":"Medieval Textiles and Clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Textiles_and_Clothing?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1531772,"name":"Sant'Apollinare in Classe Ravenna","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/SantApollinare_in_Classe_Ravenna?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_11583493" data-work_id="11583493" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/11583493/The_Fabric_of_American_Literary_Realism_Readymade_Clothing_Social_Mobility_and_Assimilation">The Fabric of American Literary Realism: Readymade Clothing, Social Mobility and Assimilation</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/11583493" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="b8bcfdf8bf5f12bc09ed9c0028358905" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":37501717,"asset_id":11583493,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/37501717/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="27159859" href="https://kettering.academia.edu/BabakElahi">Babak Elahi</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="27159859" type="text/json">{"id":27159859,"first_name":"Babak","last_name":"Elahi","domain_name":"kettering","page_name":"BabakElahi","display_name":"Babak Elahi","profile_url":"https://kettering.academia.edu/BabakElahi?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/27159859/7990909/13005183/s65_babak.elahi.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_11583493 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="11583493"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 11583493, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_11583493", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_11583493 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 11583493; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_11583493"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_11583493 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="11583493"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 11583493; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=11583493]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_11583493").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_11583493").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="11583493"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="10" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/American_Literature">American Literature</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="10" type="text/json">{"id":10,"name":"American Literature","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/American_Literature?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2473" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies">Material Culture Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2473" type="text/json">{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2858" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Popular_Culture">Popular Culture</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="2858" type="text/json">{"id":2858,"name":"Popular Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Popular_Culture?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=11583493]'), work: {"id":11583493,"title":"The Fabric of American Literary Realism: Readymade Clothing, Social Mobility and Assimilation","created_at":"2015-03-22T05:54:37.756-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/11583493/The_Fabric_of_American_Literary_Realism_Readymade_Clothing_Social_Mobility_and_Assimilation?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_11583493","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":37501717,"asset_id":11583493,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":27159859,"first_name":"Babak","last_name":"Elahi","domain_name":"kettering","page_name":"BabakElahi","display_name":"Babak Elahi","profile_url":"https://kettering.academia.edu/BabakElahi?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/27159859/7990909/13005183/s65_babak.elahi.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":10,"name":"American Literature","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/American_Literature?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2858,"name":"Popular Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Popular_Culture?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":401563,"name":"American Literary Realism, Naturalism, and Modernism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/American_Literary_Realism_Naturalism_and_Modernism?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_37667350" data-work_id="37667350" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/37667350/_Take_measure_of_your_wide_and_flaunting_garments_The_farthingale_gender_and_the_consumption_of_space_in_Elizabethan_and_Jacobean_England">"Take measure of your wide and flaunting garments": The farthingale, gender and the consumption of space in Elizabethan and Jacobean England</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Farthingales were large stiffened structures placed beneath a woman’s skirts in order to push them out and enlarge the lower half of the body. During the Elizabethan and Jacobean periods in England criticisms of these garments... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_37667350" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Farthingales were large stiffened structures placed beneath a woman’s skirts in order to push them out and enlarge the lower half of the body. During the Elizabethan and Jacobean periods in England criticisms of these garments increasingly focused on their spatial ramifications, decrying their monstrous size and inconvenience. Nonetheless farthingales served important social and cultural functions for women in early modern England, shaping and defining status and wealth in both court and urban spaces. Using surviving textual and visual sources, as well as engaging with the process of historical dress reconstruction, this article argues that spatial anxieties relating to farthingales were less about the actual size of this garment and more related to older fears concerning the ability of farthingales to create intimate personal spaces around the female body, mask the appropriation of social status, and physically displace men. In turn, these anxieties led to the establishment of a common and enduring trope regarding the monstrous size of these garments as women in farthingales were perceived to be challenging their social and gendered place in the world.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/37667350" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="67df961d707314320c196731ee538440" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":64787895,"asset_id":37667350,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/64787895/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3Nyw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="3370312" href="https://acu-au.academia.edu/SarahBendall">Sarah A Bendall</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="3370312" type="text/json">{"id":3370312,"first_name":"Sarah","last_name":"Bendall","domain_name":"acu-au","page_name":"SarahBendall","display_name":"Sarah A Bendall","profile_url":"https://acu-au.academia.edu/SarahBendall?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/3370312/1133856/109271271/s65_sarah.bendall.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_37667350 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="37667350"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 37667350, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_37667350", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_37667350 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 37667350; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_37667350"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_37667350 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="37667350"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 37667350; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=37667350]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_37667350").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_37667350").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="37667350"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">8</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="696" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_Studies">Gender Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="696" type="text/json">{"id":696,"name":"Gender Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1138" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies">Women's Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1138" type="text/json">{"id":1138,"name":"Women's Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2473" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies">Material Culture Studies</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="2473" type="text/json">{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=37667350]'), work: {"id":37667350,"title":"\"Take measure of your wide and flaunting garments\": The farthingale, gender and the consumption of space in Elizabethan and Jacobean England","created_at":"2018-10-29T04:00:01.143-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/37667350/_Take_measure_of_your_wide_and_flaunting_garments_The_farthingale_gender_and_the_consumption_of_space_in_Elizabethan_and_Jacobean_England?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_37667350","summary":"Farthingales were large stiffened structures placed beneath a woman’s skirts in order to push them out and enlarge the lower half of the body. During the Elizabethan and Jacobean periods in England criticisms of these garments increasingly focused on their spatial ramifications, decrying their monstrous size and inconvenience. Nonetheless farthingales served important social and cultural functions for women in early modern England, shaping and defining status and wealth in both court and urban spaces. Using surviving textual and visual sources, as well as engaging with the process of historical dress reconstruction, this article argues that spatial anxieties relating to farthingales were less about the actual size of this garment and more related to older fears concerning the ability of farthingales to create intimate personal spaces around the female body, mask the appropriation of social status, and physically displace men. In turn, these anxieties led to the establishment of a common and enduring trope regarding the monstrous size of these garments as women in farthingales were perceived to be challenging their social and gendered place in the world.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":64787895,"asset_id":37667350,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":3370312,"first_name":"Sarah","last_name":"Bendall","domain_name":"acu-au","page_name":"SarahBendall","display_name":"Sarah A Bendall","profile_url":"https://acu-au.academia.edu/SarahBendall?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/3370312/1133856/109271271/s65_sarah.bendall.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":696,"name":"Gender Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1138,"name":"Women's Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2987,"name":"Renaissance Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Renaissance_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":60390,"name":"Jacobean theatre","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Jacobean_theatre?f_ri=1437"},{"id":252743,"name":"Elizabethan England","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Elizabethan_England?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1288362,"name":"Womens History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_History-22?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_41623381" data-work_id="41623381" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/41623381/Robe_et_culottes_courtes_lhabit_fait_il_le_sexe">Robe et culottes courtes : l'habit fait-il le sexe?</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest">L'histoire de l'habillement d'enfant racontée par la perspective de la problématique du genre, du 18e au 20e siècle. <br /><br />Ouvrage édité par Anne Dafflon Novelle</div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/41623381" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="da24952f381332c65284561643d754f9" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":61779821,"asset_id":41623381,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/61779821/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3OCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="116623244" href="https://head.academia.edu/EFischer">Elizabeth Fischer</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="116623244" type="text/json">{"id":116623244,"first_name":"Elizabeth","last_name":"Fischer","domain_name":"head","page_name":"EFischer","display_name":"Elizabeth Fischer","profile_url":"https://head.academia.edu/EFischer?f_ri=1437","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_41623381 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="41623381"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 41623381, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_41623381", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_41623381 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 41623381; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_41623381"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_41623381 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="41623381"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 41623381; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=41623381]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_41623381").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_41623381").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="41623381"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">4</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1231" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sociology_of_Children_and_Childhood">Sociology of Children and Childhood</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1231" type="text/json">{"id":1231,"name":"Sociology of Children and Childhood","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sociology_of_Children_and_Childhood?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="7024" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender">Gender</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="7024" type="text/json">{"id":7024,"name":"Gender","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2668723" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Skirt_trousers_and_dress">Skirt, trousers and dress</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="2668723" type="text/json">{"id":2668723,"name":"Skirt, trousers and dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Skirt_trousers_and_dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=41623381]'), work: {"id":41623381,"title":"Robe et culottes courtes : l'habit fait-il le sexe?","created_at":"2020-01-14T03:48:55.279-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/41623381/Robe_et_culottes_courtes_lhabit_fait_il_le_sexe?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_41623381","summary":"L'histoire de l'habillement d'enfant racontée par la perspective de la problématique du genre, du 18e au 20e siècle. \n\nOuvrage édité par Anne Dafflon Novelle","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":61779821,"asset_id":41623381,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":116623244,"first_name":"Elizabeth","last_name":"Fischer","domain_name":"head","page_name":"EFischer","display_name":"Elizabeth Fischer","profile_url":"https://head.academia.edu/EFischer?f_ri=1437","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1231,"name":"Sociology of Children and Childhood","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sociology_of_Children_and_Childhood?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":7024,"name":"Gender","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":2668723,"name":"Skirt, trousers and dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Skirt_trousers_and_dress?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_39001516" data-work_id="39001516" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/39001516/Reawakening_the_Sleeping_Beauties_of_Haute_Couture_The_Case_of_Guy_and_Arnaud_de_Lummen">Reawakening the 'Sleeping Beauties' of Haute Couture: The Case of Guy and Arnaud de Lummen</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/39001516" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="198b45ce36348861ec047461efff138e" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":59108994,"asset_id":39001516,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/59108994/download_file?st=MTczMjQ3NjU3OCw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="23746336" href="https://independentresearcher.academia.edu/JohannaZanon">Johanna Zanon</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="23746336" type="text/json">{"id":23746336,"first_name":"Johanna","last_name":"Zanon","domain_name":"independentresearcher","page_name":"JohannaZanon","display_name":"Johanna Zanon","profile_url":"https://independentresearcher.academia.edu/JohannaZanon?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/23746336/6435281/31924739/s65_johanna.zanon.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_39001516 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="39001516"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 39001516, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_39001516", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_39001516 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 39001516; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_39001516"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_39001516 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="39001516"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 39001516; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=39001516]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_39001516").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_39001516").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="39001516"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i>  <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">19</a>  </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="38" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Management">Management</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="38" type="text/json">{"id":38,"name":"Management","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Management?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="39" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Marketing">Marketing</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="39" type="text/json">{"id":39,"name":"Marketing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Marketing?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="128" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History">History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="128" type="text/json">{"id":128,"name":"History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="136" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History">Cultural History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="136" type="text/json">{"id":136,"name":"Cultural History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=39001516]'), work: {"id":39001516,"title":"Reawakening the 'Sleeping Beauties' of Haute Couture: The Case of Guy and Arnaud de Lummen","created_at":"2019-05-02T05:33:18.170-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/39001516/Reawakening_the_Sleeping_Beauties_of_Haute_Couture_The_Case_of_Guy_and_Arnaud_de_Lummen?f_ri=1437","dom_id":"work_39001516","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":59108994,"asset_id":39001516,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":23746336,"first_name":"Johanna","last_name":"Zanon","domain_name":"independentresearcher","page_name":"JohannaZanon","display_name":"Johanna Zanon","profile_url":"https://independentresearcher.academia.edu/JohannaZanon?f_ri=1437","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/23746336/6435281/31924739/s65_johanna.zanon.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":38,"name":"Management","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Management?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":39,"name":"Marketing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Marketing?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":128,"name":"History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":136,"name":"Cultural History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History?f_ri=1437","nofollow":false},{"id":188,"name":"Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1074,"name":"Organizational Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Organizational_Theory?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=1437"},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3479,"name":"Business History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Business_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":3516,"name":"Contemporary History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Contemporary_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=1437"},{"id":13340,"name":"Pierre Bourdieu","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Pierre_Bourdieu?f_ri=1437"},{"id":23735,"name":"Branding","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Branding?f_ri=1437"},{"id":50968,"name":"Fashion Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Studies?f_ri=1437"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":358378,"name":"Fashion Business","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Business?f_ri=1437"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=1437"},{"id":825941,"name":"Fashion Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Industry?f_ri=1437"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div></div><div class="u-taCenter Pagination"><ul class="pagination"><li class="next_page"><a href="/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?after=50%2C39001516" rel="next">Next</a></li><li class="last next"><a href="/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?page=last">Last »</a></li></ul></div></div><div class="hidden-xs hidden-sm"><div class="u-pl6x"><div style="width: 300px;"><div class="panel panel-flat u-mt7x"><div class="panel-heading u-p5x"><div class="u-tcGrayDark u-taCenter u-fw700 u-textUppercase">Related Topics</div></div><ul class="list-group"><li class="list-group-item media_v2 u-mt0x u-p3x"><div class="media-body"><div class="u-tcGrayDarker u-fw700"><a class="u-tcGrayDarker" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity">Dress and identity</a></div></div><div class="media-right media-middle"><a class="u-tcGreen u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-follow-ri-id="21622">Follow</a><a class="u-tcGray u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-unfollow-ri-id="21622">Following</a></div></li><li class="list-group-item media_v2 u-mt0x u-p3x"><div class="media-body"><div class="u-tcGrayDarker u-fw700"><a class="u-tcGrayDarker" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a></div></div><div class="media-right media-middle"><a class="u-tcGreen u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-follow-ri-id="8357">Follow</a><a class="u-tcGray u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-unfollow-ri-id="8357">Following</a></div></li><li class="list-group-item media_v2 u-mt0x u-p3x"><div class="media-body"><div class="u-tcGrayDarker u-fw700"><a class="u-tcGrayDarker" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles">History of Textiles</a></div></div><div class="media-right media-middle"><a class="u-tcGreen u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-follow-ri-id="5256">Follow</a><a class="u-tcGray u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-unfollow-ri-id="5256">Following</a></div></li><li class="list-group-item media_v2 u-mt0x u-p3x"><div class="media-body"><div class="u-tcGrayDarker u-fw700"><a class="u-tcGrayDarker" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Costume">History of Costume</a></div></div><div class="media-right media-middle"><a class="u-tcGreen u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-follow-ri-id="5255">Follow</a><a class="u-tcGray u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-unfollow-ri-id="5255">Following</a></div></li><li class="list-group-item media_v2 u-mt0x u-p3x"><div class="media-body"><div class="u-tcGrayDarker u-fw700"><a class="u-tcGrayDarker" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies">Dress Studies</a></div></div><div class="media-right media-middle"><a class="u-tcGreen u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-follow-ri-id="1434">Follow</a><a class="u-tcGray u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-unfollow-ri-id="1434">Following</a></div></li><li class="list-group-item media_v2 u-mt0x u-p3x"><div class="media-body"><div class="u-tcGrayDarker u-fw700"><a class="u-tcGrayDarker" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a></div></div><div class="media-right media-middle"><a class="u-tcGreen u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-follow-ri-id="177724">Follow</a><a class="u-tcGray u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-unfollow-ri-id="177724">Following</a></div></li><li class="list-group-item media_v2 u-mt0x u-p3x"><div class="media-body"><div class="u-tcGrayDarker u-fw700"><a class="u-tcGrayDarker" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body">Dress and the Body</a></div></div><div class="media-right media-middle"><a class="u-tcGreen u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-follow-ri-id="13658">Follow</a><a class="u-tcGray u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-unfollow-ri-id="13658">Following</a></div></li><li class="list-group-item media_v2 u-mt0x u-p3x"><div class="media-body"><div class="u-tcGrayDarker u-fw700"><a class="u-tcGrayDarker" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a></div></div><div class="media-right media-middle"><a class="u-tcGreen u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-follow-ri-id="1433">Follow</a><a class="u-tcGray u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-unfollow-ri-id="1433">Following</a></div></li><li class="list-group-item media_v2 u-mt0x u-p3x"><div class="media-body"><div class="u-tcGrayDarker u-fw700"><a class="u-tcGrayDarker" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Dress">Medieval Dress</a></div></div><div class="media-right media-middle"><a class="u-tcGreen u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-follow-ri-id="1650">Follow</a><a class="u-tcGray u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-unfollow-ri-id="1650">Following</a></div></li><li class="list-group-item media_v2 u-mt0x u-p3x"><div class="media-body"><div class="u-tcGrayDarker u-fw700"><a class="u-tcGrayDarker" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Costume_and_Identity">Costume and Identity</a></div></div><div class="media-right media-middle"><a class="u-tcGreen u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-follow-ri-id="8878">Follow</a><a class="u-tcGray u-textDecorationNone u-linkUnstyled u-fw500 hidden" data-unfollow-ri-id="8878">Following</a></div></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div></div><script>// MIT License // Copyright © 2011 Sebastian Tschan, https://blueimp.net // Permission is hereby granted, free of charge, to any person obtaining a copy of // this software and associated documentation files (the "Software"), to deal in // the Software without restriction, including without limitation the rights to // use, copy, modify, merge, publish, distribute, sublicense, and/or sell copies of // the Software, and to permit persons to whom the Software is furnished to do so, // subject to the following conditions: // The above copyright notice and this permission notice shall be included in all // copies or substantial portions of the Software. // THE SOFTWARE IS PROVIDED "AS IS", WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR // IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS // FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND NONINFRINGEMENT. IN NO EVENT SHALL THE AUTHORS OR // COPYRIGHT HOLDERS BE LIABLE FOR ANY CLAIM, DAMAGES OR OTHER LIABILITY, WHETHER // IN AN ACTION OF CONTRACT, TORT OR OTHERWISE, ARISING FROM, OUT OF OR IN // CONNECTION WITH THE SOFTWARE OR THE USE OR OTHER DEALINGS IN THE SOFTWARE. !function(n){"use strict";function d(n,t){var r=(65535&n)+(65535&t);return(n>>16)+(t>>16)+(r>>16)<<16|65535&r}function f(n,t,r,e,o,u){return d((c=d(d(t,n),d(e,u)))<<(f=o)|c>>>32-f,r);var c,f}function l(n,t,r,e,o,u,c){return f(t&r|~t&e,n,t,o,u,c)}function v(n,t,r,e,o,u,c){return f(t&e|r&~e,n,t,o,u,c)}function g(n,t,r,e,o,u,c){return f(t^r^e,n,t,o,u,c)}function m(n,t,r,e,o,u,c){return f(r^(t|~e),n,t,o,u,c)}function i(n,t){var r,e,o,u;n[t>>5]|=128<<t%32,n[14+(t+64>>>9<<4)]=t;for(var c=1732584193,f=-271733879,i=-1732584194,a=271733878,h=0;h<n.length;h+=16)c=l(r=c,e=f,o=i,u=a,n[h],7,-680876936),a=l(a,c,f,i,n[h+1],12,-389564586),i=l(i,a,c,f,n[h+2],17,606105819),f=l(f,i,a,c,n[h+3],22,-1044525330),c=l(c,f,i,a,n[h+4],7,-176418897),a=l(a,c,f,i,n[h+5],12,1200080426),i=l(i,a,c,f,n[h+6],17,-1473231341),f=l(f,i,a,c,n[h+7],22,-45705983),c=l(c,f,i,a,n[h+8],7,1770035416),a=l(a,c,f,i,n[h+9],12,-1958414417),i=l(i,a,c,f,n[h+10],17,-42063),f=l(f,i,a,c,n[h+11],22,-1990404162),c=l(c,f,i,a,n[h+12],7,1804603682),a=l(a,c,f,i,n[h+13],12,-40341101),i=l(i,a,c,f,n[h+14],17,-1502002290),c=v(c,f=l(f,i,a,c,n[h+15],22,1236535329),i,a,n[h+1],5,-165796510),a=v(a,c,f,i,n[h+6],9,-1069501632),i=v(i,a,c,f,n[h+11],14,643717713),f=v(f,i,a,c,n[h],20,-373897302),c=v(c,f,i,a,n[h+5],5,-701558691),a=v(a,c,f,i,n[h+10],9,38016083),i=v(i,a,c,f,n[h+15],14,-660478335),f=v(f,i,a,c,n[h+4],20,-405537848),c=v(c,f,i,a,n[h+9],5,568446438),a=v(a,c,f,i,n[h+14],9,-1019803690),i=v(i,a,c,f,n[h+3],14,-187363961),f=v(f,i,a,c,n[h+8],20,1163531501),c=v(c,f,i,a,n[h+13],5,-1444681467),a=v(a,c,f,i,n[h+2],9,-51403784),i=v(i,a,c,f,n[h+7],14,1735328473),c=g(c,f=v(f,i,a,c,n[h+12],20,-1926607734),i,a,n[h+5],4,-378558),a=g(a,c,f,i,n[h+8],11,-2022574463),i=g(i,a,c,f,n[h+11],16,1839030562),f=g(f,i,a,c,n[h+14],23,-35309556),c=g(c,f,i,a,n[h+1],4,-1530992060),a=g(a,c,f,i,n[h+4],11,1272893353),i=g(i,a,c,f,n[h+7],16,-155497632),f=g(f,i,a,c,n[h+10],23,-1094730640),c=g(c,f,i,a,n[h+13],4,681279174),a=g(a,c,f,i,n[h],11,-358537222),i=g(i,a,c,f,n[h+3],16,-722521979),f=g(f,i,a,c,n[h+6],23,76029189),c=g(c,f,i,a,n[h+9],4,-640364487),a=g(a,c,f,i,n[h+12],11,-421815835),i=g(i,a,c,f,n[h+15],16,530742520),c=m(c,f=g(f,i,a,c,n[h+2],23,-995338651),i,a,n[h],6,-198630844),a=m(a,c,f,i,n[h+7],10,1126891415),i=m(i,a,c,f,n[h+14],15,-1416354905),f=m(f,i,a,c,n[h+5],21,-57434055),c=m(c,f,i,a,n[h+12],6,1700485571),a=m(a,c,f,i,n[h+3],10,-1894986606),i=m(i,a,c,f,n[h+10],15,-1051523),f=m(f,i,a,c,n[h+1],21,-2054922799),c=m(c,f,i,a,n[h+8],6,1873313359),a=m(a,c,f,i,n[h+15],10,-30611744),i=m(i,a,c,f,n[h+6],15,-1560198380),f=m(f,i,a,c,n[h+13],21,1309151649),c=m(c,f,i,a,n[h+4],6,-145523070),a=m(a,c,f,i,n[h+11],10,-1120210379),i=m(i,a,c,f,n[h+2],15,718787259),f=m(f,i,a,c,n[h+9],21,-343485551),c=d(c,r),f=d(f,e),i=d(i,o),a=d(a,u);return[c,f,i,a]}function a(n){for(var t="",r=32*n.length,e=0;e<r;e+=8)t+=String.fromCharCode(n[e>>5]>>>e%32&255);return t}function h(n){var t=[];for(t[(n.length>>2)-1]=void 0,e=0;e<t.length;e+=1)t[e]=0;for(var r=8*n.length,e=0;e<r;e+=8)t[e>>5]|=(255&n.charCodeAt(e/8))<<e%32;return t}function e(n){for(var t,r="0123456789abcdef",e="",o=0;o<n.length;o+=1)t=n.charCodeAt(o),e+=r.charAt(t>>>4&15)+r.charAt(15&t);return e}function r(n){return unescape(encodeURIComponent(n))}function o(n){return a(i(h(t=r(n)),8*t.length));var t}function u(n,t){return function(n,t){var r,e,o=h(n),u=[],c=[];for(u[15]=c[15]=void 0,16<o.length&&(o=i(o,8*n.length)),r=0;r<16;r+=1)u[r]=909522486^o[r],c[r]=1549556828^o[r];return e=i(u.concat(h(t)),512+8*t.length),a(i(c.concat(e),640))}(r(n),r(t))}function t(n,t,r){return t?r?u(t,n):e(u(t,n)):r?o(n):e(o(n))}"function"==typeof define&&define.amd?define(function(){return t}):"object"==typeof module&&module.exports?module.exports=t:n.md5=t}(this);</script><script>window.AbTest = (function() { return { 'ab_test': (uniqueId, test_name, buckets) => { let override = new URLSearchParams(window.location.search).get(`ab_test[${test_name}]`); if ( override ) { return override; } const bucketNames = buckets.map((bucket) => { return typeof bucket === 'string' ? bucket : Object.keys(bucket)[0]; }); const weights = buckets.map((bucket) => { return typeof bucket === 'string' ? 1 : Object.values(bucket)[0]; }); const total = weights.reduce((sum, weight) => sum + weight); const hash = md5(`${uniqueId}${test_name}`); const hashNum = parseInt(hash.slice(-12), 16); let bucketPoint = total * (hashNum % 100000) / 100000; const bucket = bucketNames.find((_, i) => { if (weights[i] > bucketPoint) { return true; } bucketPoint -= weights[i]; return false; }); return bucket; } }; })();</script><div data-auto_select="false" data-client_id="331998490334-rsn3chp12mbkiqhl6e7lu2q0mlbu0f1b" data-landing_url="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress" data-login_uri="https://www.academia.edu/registrations/google_one_tap" data-moment_callback="onGoogleOneTapEvent" id="g_id_onload"></div><script>function onGoogleOneTapEvent(event) { var momentType = event.getMomentType(); var momentReason = null; if (event.isNotDisplayed()) { momentReason = event.getNotDisplayedReason(); } else if (event.isSkippedMoment()) { momentReason = event.getSkippedReason(); } else if (event.isDismissedMoment()) { momentReason = event.getDismissedReason(); } Aedu.arbitraryEvents.write('GoogleOneTapEvent', { moment_type: momentType, moment_reason: momentReason, }); }</script><script>(function() { var auvid = unescape( document.cookie .split(/; ?/) .find((s) => s.startsWith('auvid')) .substring(6)); var bucket = AbTest.ab_test(auvid, 'lo_ri_one_tap_google_sign_on', ['control', 'one_tap_google_sign_on']); if (bucket === 'control') return; var oneTapTag = document.createElement('script') oneTapTag.async = true oneTapTag.defer = true oneTapTag.src = 'https://accounts.google.com/gsi/client' document.body.appendChild(oneTapTag) })();</script></div></div></div> </div> <div class="bootstrap login"><div class="modal fade login-modal" id="login-modal"><div class="login-modal-dialog modal-dialog"><div class="modal-content"><div class="modal-header"><button class="close close" data-dismiss="modal" type="button"><span aria-hidden="true">×</span><span class="sr-only">Close</span></button><h4 class="modal-title text-center"><strong>Log In</strong></h4></div><div class="modal-body"><div class="row"><div class="col-xs-10 col-xs-offset-1"><button class="btn btn-fb btn-lg btn-block btn-v-center-content" id="login-facebook-oauth-button"><svg style="float: left; width: 19px; line-height: 1em; margin-right: .3em;" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false" data-prefix="fab" data-icon="facebook-square" class="svg-inline--fa fa-facebook-square fa-w-14" role="img" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 448 512"><path fill="currentColor" d="M400 32H48A48 48 0 0 0 0 80v352a48 48 0 0 0 48 48h137.25V327.69h-63V256h63v-54.64c0-62.15 37-96.48 93.67-96.48 27.14 0 55.52 4.84 55.52 4.84v61h-31.27c-30.81 0-40.42 19.12-40.42 38.73V256h68.78l-11 71.69h-57.78V480H400a48 48 0 0 0 48-48V80a48 48 0 0 0-48-48z"></path></svg><small><strong>Log in</strong> with <strong>Facebook</strong></small></button><br /><button class="btn btn-google btn-lg btn-block btn-v-center-content" id="login-google-oauth-button"><svg style="float: left; width: 22px; line-height: 1em; margin-right: .3em;" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false" data-prefix="fab" data-icon="google-plus" class="svg-inline--fa fa-google-plus fa-w-16" role="img" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512"><path fill="currentColor" d="M256,8C119.1,8,8,119.1,8,256S119.1,504,256,504,504,392.9,504,256,392.9,8,256,8ZM185.3,380a124,124,0,0,1,0-248c31.3,0,60.1,11,83,32.3l-33.6,32.6c-13.2-12.9-31.3-19.1-49.4-19.1-42.9,0-77.2,35.5-77.2,78.1S142.3,334,185.3,334c32.6,0,64.9-19.1,70.1-53.3H185.3V238.1H302.2a109.2,109.2,0,0,1,1.9,20.7c0,70.8-47.5,121.2-118.8,121.2ZM415.5,273.8v35.5H380V273.8H344.5V238.3H380V202.8h35.5v35.5h35.2v35.5Z"></path></svg><small><strong>Log in</strong> with <strong>Google</strong></small></button><br /><style type="text/css">.sign-in-with-apple-button { width: 100%; height: 52px; border-radius: 3px; border: 1px solid black; cursor: pointer; }</style><script src="https://appleid.cdn-apple.com/appleauth/static/jsapi/appleid/1/en_US/appleid.auth.js" type="text/javascript"></script><div class="sign-in-with-apple-button" data-border="false" data-color="white" id="appleid-signin"><span   ="Sign Up with Apple" class="u-fs11"></span></div><script>AppleID.auth.init({ clientId: 'edu.academia.applesignon', scope: 'name email', redirectURI: 'https://www.academia.edu/sessions', state: "791a2d1049912c737c597b7078ed500701d5d7c25295509fc887857ae4bf0fd9", });</script><script>// Hacky way of checking if on fast loswp if (window.loswp == null) { (function() { const Google = window?.Aedu?.Auth?.OauthButton?.Login?.Google; const Facebook = window?.Aedu?.Auth?.OauthButton?.Login?.Facebook; if (Google) { new Google({ el: '#login-google-oauth-button', rememberMeCheckboxId: 'remember_me', track: null }); } if (Facebook) { new Facebook({ el: '#login-facebook-oauth-button', rememberMeCheckboxId: 'remember_me', track: null }); } })(); }</script></div></div></div><div class="modal-body"><div class="row"><div class="col-xs-10 col-xs-offset-1"><div class="hr-heading login-hr-heading"><span class="hr-heading-text">or</span></div></div></div></div><div class="modal-body"><div class="row"><div class="col-xs-10 col-xs-offset-1"><form class="js-login-form" action="https://www.academia.edu/sessions" accept-charset="UTF-8" method="post"><input name="utf8" type="hidden" value="✓" autocomplete="off" /><input type="hidden" name="authenticity_token" value="yZcjViyGVLGZ8KK/NNRfa3tnikYG4AEFt1y4UQPF+Sp6rNxPmK0IAkLNDgeZQRLoU7I35BjxSN3GdZyWnQaE3g==" autocomplete="off" /><div class="form-group"><label class="control-label" for="login-modal-email-input" style="font-size: 14px;">Email</label><input class="form-control" id="login-modal-email-input" name="login" type="email" /></div><div class="form-group"><label class="control-label" for="login-modal-password-input" style="font-size: 14px;">Password</label><input class="form-control" id="login-modal-password-input" name="password" type="password" /></div><input type="hidden" name="post_login_redirect_url" id="post_login_redirect_url" value="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress" autocomplete="off" /><div class="checkbox"><label><input type="checkbox" name="remember_me" id="remember_me" value="1" checked="checked" /><small style="font-size: 12px; margin-top: 2px; display: inline-block;">Remember me on this computer</small></label></div><br><input type="submit" name="commit" value="Log In" class="btn btn-primary btn-block btn-lg js-login-submit" data-disable-with="Log In" /></br></form><script>typeof window?.Aedu?.recaptchaManagedForm === 'function' && window.Aedu.recaptchaManagedForm( document.querySelector('.js-login-form'), document.querySelector('.js-login-submit') );</script><small style="font-size: 12px;"><br />or <a data-target="#login-modal-reset-password-container" data-toggle="collapse" href="javascript:void(0)">reset password</a></small><div class="collapse" id="login-modal-reset-password-container"><br /><div class="well margin-0x"><form class="js-password-reset-form" action="https://www.academia.edu/reset_password" accept-charset="UTF-8" method="post"><input name="utf8" type="hidden" value="✓" autocomplete="off" /><input type="hidden" name="authenticity_token" value="jUrPvEoBpo3eC/xjOpkWIoiN6w+ILnrIpU/lmW3TBcI+cTCl/ir6PgU2UNuXDFuhoFhWrZY/MxDUZsFe8xB4Ng==" autocomplete="off" /><p>Enter the email address you signed up with and we'll email you a reset link.</p><div class="form-group"><input class="form-control" name="email" type="email" /></div><script src="https://recaptcha.net/recaptcha/api.js" async defer></script> <script> var invisibleRecaptchaSubmit = function () { var closestForm = function (ele) { var curEle = ele.parentNode; while (curEle.nodeName !== 'FORM' && curEle.nodeName !== 'BODY'){ curEle = curEle.parentNode; } return curEle.nodeName === 'FORM' ? curEle : null }; var eles = document.getElementsByClassName('g-recaptcha'); if (eles.length > 0) { var form = closestForm(eles[0]); if (form) { form.submit(); } } }; </script> <input type="submit" data-sitekey="6Lf3KHUUAAAAACggoMpmGJdQDtiyrjVlvGJ6BbAj" data-callback="invisibleRecaptchaSubmit" class="g-recaptcha btn btn-primary btn-block" value="Email me a link" value=""/> </form></div></div><script> require.config({ waitSeconds: 90 })(["https://a.academia-assets.com/assets/collapse-45805421cf446ca5adf7aaa1935b08a3a8d1d9a6cc5d91a62a2a3a00b20b3e6a.js"], function() { // from javascript_helper.rb $("#login-modal-reset-password-container").on("shown.bs.collapse", function() { $(this).find("input[type=email]").focus(); }); }); </script> </div></div></div><div class="modal-footer"><div class="text-center"><small style="font-size: 12px;">Need an account? <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/signup">Click here to sign up</a></small></div></div></div></div></div></div><script>// If we are on subdomain or non-bootstrapped page, redirect to login page instead of showing modal (function(){ if (typeof $ === 'undefined') return; var host = window.location.hostname; if ((host === $domain || host === "www."+$domain) && (typeof $().modal === 'function')) { $("#nav_log_in").click(function(e) { // Don't follow the link and open the modal e.preventDefault(); $("#login-modal").on('shown.bs.modal', function() { $(this).find("#login-modal-email-input").focus() }).modal('show'); }); } })()</script> <div class="bootstrap" id="footer"><div class="footer-content clearfix text-center padding-top-7x" style="width:100%;"><ul class="footer-links-secondary footer-links-wide list-inline margin-bottom-1x"><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/about">About</a></li><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/press">Press</a></li><li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://medium.com/academia">Blog</a></li><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/documents">Papers</a></li><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/topics">Topics</a></li><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/journals">Academia.edu Journals</a></li><li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/hiring"><svg style="width: 13px; height: 13px;" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false" data-prefix="fas" data-icon="briefcase" class="svg-inline--fa fa-briefcase fa-w-16" role="img" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512"><path fill="currentColor" d="M320 336c0 8.84-7.16 16-16 16h-96c-8.84 0-16-7.16-16-16v-48H0v144c0 25.6 22.4 48 48 48h416c25.6 0 48-22.4 48-48V288H320v48zm144-208h-80V80c0-25.6-22.4-48-48-48H176c-25.6 0-48 22.4-48 48v48H48c-25.6 0-48 22.4-48 48v80h512v-80c0-25.6-22.4-48-48-48zm-144 0H192V96h128v32z"></path></svg> <strong>We're Hiring!</strong></a></li><li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://support.academia.edu/"><svg style="width: 12px; height: 12px;" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false" data-prefix="fas" data-icon="question-circle" class="svg-inline--fa fa-question-circle fa-w-16" role="img" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512"><path fill="currentColor" d="M504 256c0 136.997-111.043 248-248 248S8 392.997 8 256C8 119.083 119.043 8 256 8s248 111.083 248 248zM262.655 90c-54.497 0-89.255 22.957-116.549 63.758-3.536 5.286-2.353 12.415 2.715 16.258l34.699 26.31c5.205 3.947 12.621 3.008 16.665-2.122 17.864-22.658 30.113-35.797 57.303-35.797 20.429 0 45.698 13.148 45.698 32.958 0 14.976-12.363 22.667-32.534 33.976C247.128 238.528 216 254.941 216 296v4c0 6.627 5.373 12 12 12h56c6.627 0 12-5.373 12-12v-1.333c0-28.462 83.186-29.647 83.186-106.667 0-58.002-60.165-102-116.531-102zM256 338c-25.365 0-46 20.635-46 46 0 25.364 20.635 46 46 46s46-20.636 46-46c0-25.365-20.635-46-46-46z"></path></svg> <strong>Help Center</strong></a></li></ul><ul class="footer-links-tertiary list-inline margin-bottom-1x"><li class="small">Find new research papers in:</li><li class="small"><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Physics">Physics</a></li><li class="small"><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Chemistry">Chemistry</a></li><li class="small"><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Biology">Biology</a></li><li class="small"><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Health_Sciences">Health Sciences</a></li><li class="small"><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ecology">Ecology</a></li><li class="small"><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Earth_Sciences">Earth Sciences</a></li><li class="small"><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cognitive_Science">Cognitive Science</a></li><li class="small"><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Mathematics">Mathematics</a></li><li class="small"><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Computer_Science">Computer Science</a></li></ul></div></div><div class="DesignSystem" id="credit" style="width:100%;"><ul class="u-pl0x footer-links-legal list-inline"><li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/terms">Terms</a></li><li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/privacy">Privacy</a></li><li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.academia.edu/copyright">Copyright</a></li><li>Academia ©2024</li></ul></div><script> //<![CDATA[ window.detect_gmtoffset = true; window.Academia && window.Academia.set_gmtoffset && Academia.set_gmtoffset('/gmtoffset'); //]]> </script> <div id='overlay_background'></div> <div id='bootstrap-modal-container' class='bootstrap'></div> <div id='ds-modal-container' class='bootstrap DesignSystem'></div> <div id='full-screen-modal'></div> </div> </body> </html>