Calenda - Tailoring identities

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href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=277">Histoire culturelle</a></li> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=318">XIXe si猫cle</a></li> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=278">Histoire de l'art</a></li> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=280">脡tudes visuelles</a></li> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=233">Histoire des femmes</a></li> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=281">Identit茅s culturelles</a></li> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=276">Repr茅sentations</a></li> </ul> </div> </div> <div id="document" class="column"> <div id="main"> <div class="titles"> <h1 class="origt"><a href="1243476">Tailoring identities</a></h1> <p class="origd">Pour une histoire de la masculinisation de la mode f茅minine</p> <p class="origd altertitle">The long history of the masculinisation of womenswear</p> </div> <div class="mapuce2">*  *  *</div> <p id="pubdate"> Publi茅 le jeudi 20 mars 2025 </p> <div id="texte"> <div id="resume"> <p class="intitule">R茅sum茅</p> <div id="resume-1243476-fr" class="tabContent" lang="fr" xml:lang="fr"> <p style="text-align: left;">Cette journée d'étude a pour objectif de revenir sur la transformation du vestiaire fe虂minin du XV<sup>e</sup> au XX<sup>e</sup> siècle lorsqu'il emprunte à différents ressorts de mode masculine, ainsi que sur les pratiques de <em>cross-dressing</em>. Elle entend analyser comment l’art des tailleurs a accompagne虂 la de虂finition progressive d’une silhouette s’e虂loignant des apparences de la fe虂minite虂 normative, et examiner comment les emprunts au vestiaire masculin ont permis a虁 des personnes en dissidence avec les normes de genre d’exprimer inde虂pendance, re虂sistance ou appartenance – de manie虁re visible ou (quasiment) invisible. En se penchant sur l’intersection entre mode et identite虂(s), elle espère la varie虂te虂 des manie虁res par lesquelles le ve虃tement a permis les expressions individuelles, mais aussi combien il a e虂te虂, au-dela虁 d’elles, un moyen de re虂sistance et de ne虂gociation des normes sociales. </p> </div> </div> <div id="annonce"> <p class="intitule">Annonce</p> <div id="annonce-1243476-fr" class="tabContent" lang="fr" xml:lang="fr"> <h1>Argumentaire</h1> <p style="text-align: left;">La mode s’inscrit dans un syste虁me au sein duquel la mate虂rialite虂, les conditions de cre虂ation et les perceptions sociales des objets sont traverse虂es par les questions de genre. On a depuis longtemps analyse虂 combien le ve虃tement est tout a虁 la fois le lieu de l’expression et de la remise en cause des attendus sociaux, qu’il participe a虁 renforcer ou a虁 subvertir les normes de genres et les constructions binaires. Ainsi la question du genre dans la mode s’e虂tend-elle, bien au-dela虁 des ve虃tements eux-me虃mes, aux accessoires, aux e虂toffes, aux techniques de productions, jusqu’aux manie虁res dont on les expose, les commercialise et les consomme. Elle e虂claire la manie虁re dont la mode et le ve虃tement, a虁 travers l’histoire et une grande varie虂te虂 de contextes culturels, participent tout a虁 la fois a虁 structurer, de虂jouer ou contester les rapports de pouvoir. Comprendre, en ce sens, la mode comme une pratique et un lieu ou虁 se pensent ces enjeux met en lumie虁re sa capacite虂 a虁 interroger ou renverser les re虂cits dominants, et a虁 faire e虂merger des expressions dissidentes de l’identite虂.</p> <p style="text-align: left;">La tension entre mode et identite虂(s), en constante e虂volution, se lie particulie虁rement au phe虂nome虁ne de masculinisation de la mode fe虂minine, que fac抬onnent divers changements de paradigmes culturels, sociaux et esthe虂tiques, en Europe, depuis les de虂buts de l’e虁re moderne. Du XVe sie虁cle a虁 nos jours, en effet, le vestiaire fe虂minin n’a cesse虂 d’incorporer des e虂le虂ments du vestiaire masculin, remettant en question la rigidite虂 des normes vestimentaires et rede虂finissant les frontie虁res de l’apparence et du genre. </p> <p style="text-align: left;">Organise虂e par le Palais Galliera et la CPJ Fashion Heritage de l’Universite虂 Paris 1 Sorbonne/HiCSA, dans le cadre d’un projet de recherche lie虂 a虁 une exposition a虁 venir, la journe虂e d’e虂tude TAILORING IDENTITIES a pour objectif de revenir sur cette transformation du vestiaire fe虂minin, ainsi que sur les pratiques de cross-dressing. Elle entend analyser, d’une part, comment l’art des tailleurs et, chemin faisant, les industries de la mode ont accompagne虂 la de虂finition progressive d’une silhouette s’e虂loignant des apparences de la fe虂minite虂 normative. Elle souhaite examiner, d’autre part, comment les emprunts au vestiaire masculin ont permis a虁 des personnes en dissidence avec les normes de genre d’exprimer inde虂pendance, re虂sistance ou appartenance – de manie虁re visible ou (quasiment) invisible. En se penchant sur l’intersection entre mode et identite虂(s), nous souhaitons mettre en lumie虁re la varie虂te虂 des manie虁res par lesquelles le ve虃tement a permis les expressions individuelles, mais aussi combien il a e虂te虂, au-dela虁 d’elles, un moyen de re虂sistance et de ne虂gociation des normes sociales.</p> <p style="text-align: left;">En rassemblant des approches issues des e虂tudes de mode, des e虂tudes de genre et d’histoire culturelle, cette journe虂e d’e虂tude observera comment des notions telles que le style et le gou虃t ont e虂te虂 repense虂es au moyen de l’appropriation et de la re虂interpre虂tation d’e虂le虂ments du vestiaire masculin dans la mode fe虂minine. Elle se penchera e虂galement sur le ro虃le du ve虃tement comme moyen de re虂sistance et de mise en forme des identite虂s, avec un regard appuye虂 sur les modes lesbiennes et <em>gender-non conforming</em>, entre autres remises en cause des attendus normatifs en matie虁re de mode.</p> <p style="text-align: left;">Les the虁mes inte虂ressant particulie虁rement cette journe虂e d’e虂tude recouvrent, sans s’y limiter :</p> <ul> <li> <p>les pre虂ce虂dents historiques d’emprunts de la mode fe虂minine au ve虃tement masculin</p> </li> <li> <p>l’e虂volution de l’art des tailleurs et des savoir-faire dans la mode fe虂minine</p> </li> <li> <p>la mode comme outil pour interroger et fac抬onner les liens entre identite虂 et structures de pouvoir </p> </li> <li> <p>le ro虃le des repre虂sentations visuelles (photographie, mais aussi miniatures, arts graphiques, peinture, etc.) et litte虂raires dans la de虂finition d’identite虂s et de styles empruntant aux codes conside虂re虂s comme masculins dans le vestiaire fe虂minin</p> </li> <li> <p>des e虂tudes de cas portant sur une ou des personnes ayant particulie虁rement participe虂 a虁 faire bouger les lignes de la mode dite fe虂minine en empruntant au vestiaire masculin</p> </li> <li> <p>les de虂bats sur les modes <em>gender fluid</em> et leurs implications sociales et politiques</p> </li> </ul> <p style="text-align: left;">Les propositions de chercheureuses, conservateurices, cre虂ateurices et praticiennes dont les recherches ou la pratique cre虂ative se trouvent a虁 la croise虂e des questions de mode, genre et identite虂 seront bienvenues. On retiendra particulie虁rement les contributions pre虂sentant une perspective interdisciplinaire, nouant l’histoire de la mode aux enjeux des e虂tudes de genre, de la the虂orie queer, de la culture mate虂rielle et de la culture visuelle.</p> <h1>Conditions de soumission</h1> <p style="text-align: left;">Les propositions d’intervention sont a虁 envoyer a虁 Marta Franceschini, Emilie Hammen et Marine Kisiel a虁 l’adresse suivante: <strong>tailoringidentities@gmail.com</strong> sous la forme d’un unique document PDF comprenant une note d’intention (300 mots max) et une notice biographique (150 mots max).</p> <p style="text-align: left;">Merci d’intituler votre document comme suit <em>nom-pre虂nom-TI2025</em>.</p> <h3>Date limite d’envoi des propositions<span class="mce-nbsp-wrap" contenteditable="false"> </span>: 7 avril 2025 </h3> <p style="text-align: left;">Les intervenant·es retenu·es en seront informe虂·es avant le 16 avril 2025.</p> <p style="text-align: left;">La confe虂rence aura lieu Galerie Colbert (6 rue des Petits-Champs) a虁 Paris les <strong>30 juin et </strong><strong>1er juillet 2025</strong>.</p> <p style="text-align: left;">Pour toute question, vous pouvez nous e虂crire a虁 l’adresse<strong> tailoringidentities@gmail.com.</strong></p> <h1>Responsables scientifiques</h1> <ul> <li class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst">Marine Kisiel, conservatrice en charge du département XIX<sup>e</sup> siècle, Palais Galliera</li> <li class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">Emilie Hammen, professeur junior, CPJ Fashion Heritage, Université Paris 1 Panthéon Sorbonne</li> <li class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast">Marta Franceschini, European Fashion Heritage Association</li> </ul> </div> </div> <div id="categories" class="cat"> <p class="intitule">Cat茅gories</p> <ul> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=228">Histoire</a> (Cat茅gorie principale)</li> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=259">Esprit et Langage</a> > <a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=276">Repr茅sentations</a> > <a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=277">Histoire culturelle</a></li> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=302">P茅riodes</a> > <a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=317">脡poque contemporaine</a> > <a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=318">XIXe si猫cle</a></li> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=259">Esprit et Langage</a> > <a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=276">Repr茅sentations</a> > <a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=278">Histoire de l'art</a></li> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=259">Esprit et Langage</a> > <a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=276">Repr茅sentations</a> > <a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=280">脡tudes visuelles</a></li> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=259">Esprit et Langage</a> > <a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=276">Repr茅sentations</a> > <a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=281">Identit茅s culturelles</a></li> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=200">Soci茅t茅s</a> > <a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=228">Histoire</a> > <a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=233">Histoire des femmes</a></li> <li><a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=259">Esprit et Langage</a> > <a href="search?primary=fsubject&fsubject=276">Repr茅sentations</a></li> </ul> </div> <div id="eventformats"> <h2 class="intitule">Format de l'茅v茅nement</h2> <p>脡v茅nement hybride sur site et en ligne</p><br></div> <div id="dates"> <p class="intitule">Dates</p> <ul> <li>lundi 07 avril 2025</li> </ul> </div> <div id="attachments"> <p class="intitule">Fichiers attach茅s</p> <ul> <li><a href="1243491?file=1" target="_blank">POSTER - TAILORING IDENTITIES - MARCH 2025.jpg</a></li> </ul> </div> <div id="motscles"> <p class="intitule">Mots-cl茅s</p> <ul> <li>tailleur, tailoring, identit茅s, identities, genre, gender, cross-dressing, gender non-conforming, mode, fashion, masculinisation, normes, norms</li> </ul> </div> <div id="contacts"> <p class="intitule">Contacts</p> <ul> <li>Tailoring Identities Journ茅es d'茅tude<br/><em>courriel :</em> tailoringidentities [at] gmail [dot] com<br/></li> </ul> </div> <div id="source"> <p class="intitule">Source de l'information</p> <ul> <li>Marine Kisiel<br/><em>courriel :</em> marine [dot] kisiel [at] paris [dot] fr</li> </ul> </div> <div id="license"> <p class="intitule">Licence</p> <p><a rel="license" href="https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/"><img alt="CC0-1.0" class="cc" src="images/cc0-88x31.png" /></a> Cette annonce est mise 脿 disposition selon les termes de la <a rel="license" href="https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/">Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universel</a>.</p> </div> <div id="citation"> <p class="intitule">Pour citer cette annonce</p> <p>芦 Tailoring identities 禄, <span class="category">Appel 脿 contribution</span>, <em>Calenda</em>, Publi茅 le jeudi 20 mars 2025, <a class="url" href="https://doi.org/10.58079/13ivm">https://doi.org/10.58079/13ivm</a></p> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div id="news" class="column last"> <div id="imprimable"> <a id="impression" onclick="javascript:window.open('1243476?formatage=print', '', 'menubar=yes,toolbar=no,scrollbars=yes,width=800,height=600');return false;" href="1243476?formatage=print">Imprimer</a> <a id="signaler" 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