CINXE.COM

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data-toggler=".shown"></div> <div class="topper"> <div class="article-media-title default "> <div class="inner"> <div class="aritcle-titles-container"> <div class="inner"> <div class="slug"><a href="https://daily.jstor.org/category/politics/">Politics & History</a></div> <h1 class="entry-title">Colonialism Created Navy Blue</h1> <div class="subtitle"> <p>The indigo dye that created the Royal Navy’s signature uniform color was only possible because of imperialism and slavery.</p> </div> </div> </div> <div class="featured-img-container"> <div class="inner"> <img width="1050" height="700" src="https://daily.jstor.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/how_navy_blue_was_popularized_through_colonialism_1050x700.jpg" class="vertical-featured-img wp-post-image" alt="Sir Charles Knowles, an officer of the Royal Navy" decoding="async" loading="lazy" /> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="article-meta-container grid-container"> <div class="grid-x grid-margin-x"> <div class="feature-img-attribution cell small-12"> <div class="caption">Sir Charles Knowles, an officer of the Royal Navy</div> <div class="attribution">via <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Capt_Sir_Charles_Henry_Knowles_Bt.jpg">Wikimedia Commons</a>/Jonathan Aprea</div> </div> <div class="article-share cell small-12"> <div class="article-share-container-compact article-top"> <span><span><svg id="share-icon" width="11" height="11" viewBox="0 0 11 11" fill="none" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"> <path d="M5.49994 0L9.90971 4.43359L8.93744 5.41111L6.1875 2.64632V8.23515H4.8125V2.64619L2.06244 5.41111L1.09016 4.43359L5.49994 0Z"/> <path d="M1.375 7.54394V9.61758H9.625V7.54394H11V11H0V7.54394H1.375Z"/> </svg></span> Share</span> <div class="share-options"> <a href="javascript:navigator.clipboard.writeText('https%3A%2F%2Fdaily.jstor.org%2Fcolonialism-created-navy-blue%2F')" onClick="this.innerHTML=this.innerHTML.replace('Copy link', 'Link copied')"><span class="icon"><svg width="11" height="12" viewBox="0 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href="https://api.whatsapp.com/send?text=Colonialism+Created+Navy+Blue https%3A%2F%2Fdaily.jstor.org%2Fcolonialism-created-navy-blue%2F"><span class="icon"><i class="fab fa-whatsapp"></i></span>WhatsApp</a> <a class="article-share__link article-share__link--email" target="_blank" rel="noopener" href="mailto:?subject=Colonialism%20Created%20Navy%20Blue&body=The%20indigo%20dye%20that%20created%20the%20Royal%20Navy%27s%20signature%20uniform%20color%20was%20only%20possible%20because%20of%20imperialism%20and%20slavery.%0D%0A%0D%0A%20Read%20More: https%3A%2F%2Fdaily.jstor.org%2Fcolonialism-created-navy-blue%2F"><span class="icon"><i class="fas fa-envelope"></i></span>Email</a> </div> </div> </div> <div class="article-meta cell small-12"> <div class="article-authors byline"><span>By: </span> <a href="https://daily.jstor.org/daily-author/allison-meier/">Allison C. Meier</a> </div> <div class="article-date"> <time class="timestamp timestamp--published" datetime="2019-05-25T08:02:31-04:00">May 25, 2019</time> <time class="timestamp--updated" datetime="2019-05-30T19:08:02-04:00">May 30, 2019</time> </div> <div class="article-reading-time"> <i class="fas fa-clock"></i> 3 minutes </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="grid-container"> <div class="main-grid grid-x grid-margin-x"> <main class="main-content cell small-12 medium-8" id="main"> <article id="post-99473" class="post-99473 post type-post status-publish format-standard has-post-thumbnail hentry category-politics category-quirky-history tag-clothing tag-color pub_tag-journal-of-asia-pacific-pop-culture pub_tag-the-economic-history-review pub_tag-the-journal-of-economic-history daily_article_types-quick-reads do-drop-cap"> <div class="entry-content"> <div class="j-icon"> The <span class="jcitation"></span> icon indicates free access to the linked research on JSTOR. </div> <p>In the second half of the eighteenth century, the Royal Navy sailed the world in service of the expansion and enforcement of the British Empire. Its officers were decked out in a deep blue, now known as navy blue. The rich hue was a recent development, and one that wouldn’t have been possible in previous centuries when the color was more scarce.</p><p class="membership-incontent-banner"><a href="https://about.jstor.org/mailings/teaching/?utm_campaign=T+L_opt-ins&utm_source=JSTORDaily_banner&utm_medium=digital_ad "><img decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-305864 show-for-large" src="https://daily.jstor.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/teaching_resources_in_text_1588.jpg" alt="JSTOR Teaching Resources" width="800" height="196"><img class="hide-for-large" src="https://daily.jstor.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/teaching_resources_in_text_mobile_800.jpg" alt="JSTOR Teaching Resources" /></a></p> <p>Researchers Adam Geczy, Vicki Karaminas, and Justine Taylor explain in the <a href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.5325/jasiapacipopcult.1.2.0141?mag=colonialism-created-navy-blue" class="jcitation" ><em>Journal of Asia-Pacific Pop Culture</em></a>:</p> <blockquote><p>In 1748, the British Royal Navy adopted dark blue officer’s uniforms, which would become the basis of the naval dress of other countries…The blue of seamen’s uniforms, so ubiquitous now as to be taken for granted, is not due to the corollary with the color and that of the sky and sea. The explanation is far more logistical, relating back to the British colonization of India and the expansion of the East India Trading Company after the victory over the French in the Seven Years’ War (1756–63).</p></blockquote> <p>The rich color came from the indigo plant, <em>Indigofera tinctoria, </em>which was native to India, and thus available to the British after they had colonized the country. It had been in use in Europe since the late thirteenth century. “Indigo was then not only plentiful and affordable [in the 18th century], but unlike other dyes was particularly color fast, outclassing other colors in withstanding extensive exposure to sun and salt water.”</p> <aside class="pull-quote center"> <div class="pull-quote__text tweetable">The woad cultivators campaigned aggressively against indigo, declaring it “was properly ‘food for the devil’ and was also poisonous.”</div> </aside> <p>Blue dye had existed in England, but it was often made from the flowering plant woad. Even when the more versatile indigo became accessible, there was some resistance to the imported blue, including from the woad cultivators. Historian Dauril Alden notes in <em>The Journal of Economic History</em> that the woad cultivators campaigned aggressively against indigo, declaring:</p> <blockquote><p>[it] was properly <a href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/2116392?mag=colonialism-created-navy-blue" class="jcitation" >“food for the devil” and was also poisonous</a>, as in fact it was (particularly to the woadmen). By the end of the sixteenth century, they had succeeded in persuading governments in the Germanies, France, and England to prohibit use of the so-called “devil’s dye.”</p></blockquote> <p>Still, they could not hold off the popularity of indigo for long, especially as dyers discovered its potential. “<a href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/2592624?mag=colonialism-created-navy-blue" class="jcitation" >Different textiles required different treatment and even different dyes</a> to achieve a given colour,” writes historian Susan Fairlie in <em>The Economic History Review</em>. Wool is the easiest to dye, while silk, cotton, and linen are each a bit harder and need varying amounts of dyes like woad. “The only fast attractive dye which worked equally on all four, with minor differences in preparation, was indigo.”</p> <div class="daily_email_signup weekly-digest "> <h4>Weekly Digest</h4> <div class="wpcf7 no-js" id="wpcf7-f50708-p99473-o2" lang="en-US" dir="ltr"> <div class="screen-reader-response"><p role="status" aria-live="polite" aria-atomic="true"></p> <ul></ul></div> <form action="/colonialism-created-navy-blue/#wpcf7-f50708-p99473-o2" method="post" class="wpcf7-form init" aria-label="Contact form" novalidate="novalidate" data-status="init"> <div style="display: none;"> <input type="hidden" name="_wpcf7" value="50708" /> <input type="hidden" name="_wpcf7_version" value="5.9.8" /> <input type="hidden" name="_wpcf7_locale" value="en_US" /> <input type="hidden" name="_wpcf7_unit_tag" value="wpcf7-f50708-p99473-o2" /> <input type="hidden" name="_wpcf7_container_post" value="99473" /> <input type="hidden" name="_wpcf7_posted_data_hash" value="" /> </div> <p class="info-text"><br /> Get your fix of JSTOR Daily’s best stories in your inbox each Thursday. </p> <div class="flex-wrapper"> <p><span class="wpcf7-form-control-wrap" data-name="your-email"><input size="40" maxlength="400" class="wpcf7-form-control wpcf7-email wpcf7-validates-as-required wpcf7-text wpcf7-validates-as-email" aria-required="true" aria-invalid="false" placeholder="Your Email" value="" type="email" name="your-email" /></span><input class="wpcf7-form-control wpcf7-submit has-spinner button" type="submit" value="Subscribe" /> </p> </div> <div> <p><input type="hidden" class="wpcf7-redirect" name="wpcf7-redirect" value="/thank-you-weekly-newsletters/" /><input type="hidden" class="form-name" name="form-name" value="newsletter_signup_weekly_digest" /> </p> </div> <p class="email-additional"><br /> <a href="https://about.jstor.org/privacy/" target="_blank">Privacy Policy</a>   <a href="http://www.jstor.org/contact-us/" target="_blank">Contact Us</a><br /> You may unsubscribe at any time by clicking on the provided link on any marketing message. </p><p style="display: none !important;" class="akismet-fields-container" data-prefix="_wpcf7_ak_"><label>Δ<textarea name="_wpcf7_ak_hp_textarea" cols="45" rows="8" maxlength="100"></textarea></label><input type="hidden" id="ak_js_2" name="_wpcf7_ak_js" value="8"/><script>document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() );</script></p><input type='hidden' class='wpcf7-pum' value='{"closepopup":true,"closedelay":2,"openpopup":false,"openpopup_id":0}' /><div class="wpcf7-response-output" aria-hidden="true"></div> </form> </div> </div> <p>With that flexibility, indigo began to be used much more widely. By the eighteenth century it was a major import to England. <a href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/27771617?mag=colonialism-created-navy-blue" class="jcitation" >Economic historian R. C. Nash writes in </a><em>The Economic History Review:</em></p> <blockquote><p><span style="font-size: inherit">Indigo, ‘the most famous of all dyes’, was the most widely used dyestuff in the </span><span style="font-size: inherit">eighteenth-century European textile industry. From the late sixteenth century Europe’s indigo supplies came from India and from the more volatile output of the Spanish American Empire. By c. 1620, Europe’s indigo imports amounted to </span><span style="font-size: inherit">least 500,000 lbs. per year.</span></p></blockquote> <p>Eventually, South Carolina emerged as a leading indigo producer, when the crop was introduced as part of the plantation system in the eighteenth century. “In combination with rice, indigo underpinned the threefold increase in the colony’s exports in the generation before the American Revolution and was also mainly responsible for the striking gains in slave-labour productivity made in the same period,” Nash states. Enslaved people were integral to the forced labor that allowed for the spread of indigo into the dye markets and onto clothing.</p> <p>Navy blue, meanwhile, endures as a color of authority today, worn by everyone from police to military officers, centuries after its promotion as the uniform of imperial expansion.</p> </div>  <div class="feedback-solicitation">Have a correction or comment about this article? <br /><a href='/contact-us?[from_url]'>Please contact us.</a></div> <div class="entry-tags hide-for-small-only"><span class="post_tag"><a href="https://daily.jstor.org/tag/clothing/">clothing</a></span><span class="post_tag"><a href="https://daily.jstor.org/tag/color/">color</a></span><span class="pub_tag"><a href="https://daily.jstor.org/pub_tag/journal-of-asia-pacific-pop-culture/">Journal of Asia-Pacific Pop Culture</a></span><span class="pub_tag"><a href="https://daily.jstor.org/pub_tag/the-economic-history-review/">The Economic History Review</a></span><span class="pub_tag"><a href="https://daily.jstor.org/pub_tag/the-journal-of-economic-history/">The Journal of Economic History</a></span></div> <div class="article-citations-container"><a class="anchor" id="resources"></a> <div class="jstor-logo"> <img src="/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/jstor-logo@2x.png" alt="JSTOR logo" width="65" height="90" > </div> <div class="article-citations"> <h2>Resources</h2> <p class="text-tight"> JSTOR is a digital library for scholars, researchers, and students. 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