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aria-label="User navigation"> </nav> </div> </header> <main id="content" class="mw-body"> <div class="banner-container"> <div id="siteNotice"></div> </div> <div class="pre-content heading-holder"> <div class="page-heading"> <h1 id="firstHeading" class="firstHeading mw-first-heading"><span class="mw-page-title-main">Russia leather</span></h1> <div class="tagline"></div> </div> <ul id="p-associated-pages" class="minerva__tab-container"> <li class="minerva__tab selected mw-list-item"> <a class="minerva__tab-text" href="/wiki/Russia_leather" rel="" data-event-name="tabs.main">Article</a> </li> <li class="minerva__tab mw-list-item"> <a class="minerva__tab-text" href="/wiki/Talk:Russia_leather" rel="discussion" data-event-name="tabs.talk">Talk</a> </li> </ul> <nav class="page-actions-menu"> <ul id="p-views" class="page-actions-menu__list"> <li id="language-selector" class="page-actions-menu__list-item"> <a role="button" href="#p-lang" data-mw="interface" data-event-name="menu.languages" title="Language" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet language-selector"> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--language"></span> <span>Language</span> </a> </li> <li id="page-actions-watch" class="page-actions-menu__list-item"> <a role="button" id="ca-watch" href="/w/index.php?title=Special:UserLogin&returnto=Russia+leather" data-event-name="menu.watch" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet menu__item--page-actions-watch"> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--star"></span> <span>Watch</span> </a> </li> <li id="page-actions-edit" class="page-actions-menu__list-item"> <a role="button" id="ca-edit" href="/w/index.php?title=Russia_leather&action=edit" data-event-name="menu.edit" data-mw="interface" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet edit-page menu__item--page-actions-edit"> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--edit"></span> <span>Edit</span> </a> </li> </ul> </nav>  <div id="mw-content-subtitle"></div> </div> <div id="bodyContent" class="content"> <div id="mw-content-text" class="mw-body-content"><script>function mfTempOpenSection(id){var block=document.getElementById("mf-section-"+id);block.className+=" open-block";block.previousSibling.className+=" open-block";}</script><div class="mw-content-ltr mw-parser-output" lang="en" dir="ltr"><section class="mf-section-0" id="mf-section-0"> <p><b>Russia leather</b> (<a href="/wiki/Russian_language" title="Russian language">Russian</a>: <span lang="ru">юфть</span> or <i>yuft</i>) is a particular form of bark-tanned cow <a href="/wiki/Leather" title="Leather">leather</a>. It is distinguished from other types of leather by a processing step that takes place after <a href="/wiki/Tanning_(leather)" title="Tanning (leather)">tanning</a>, where <a href="/wiki/Birch" title="Birch">birch</a> oil is worked into the rear face of the leather. This produces a leather that is hard-wearing, flexible and resistant to water.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The oil impregnation also deters insect damage. This leather was a major <a href="/wiki/Export_good" class="mw-redirect" title="Export good">export good</a> from <a href="/wiki/Russia" title="Russia">Russia</a> in the 17th and 18th centuries because of its high quality, its usefulness for a range of purposes, and the difficulty of replicating its manufacture elsewhere. It was an important item of trade for the <a href="/wiki/Muscovy_Company" title="Muscovy Company">Muscovy Company</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-Chinnery,_Russia_leather_2-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Chinnery,_Russia_leather-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In German-speaking countries, this leather was also known by the name <b>Juchten</b> or <b>Juften</b>. </p> <div id="toc" class="toc" role="navigation" aria-labelledby="mw-toc-heading"><input type="checkbox" role="button" id="toctogglecheckbox" class="toctogglecheckbox" style="display:none"><div class="toctitle" lang="en" dir="ltr"><h2 id="mw-toc-heading">Contents</h2><span class="toctogglespan"><label class="toctogglelabel" for="toctogglecheckbox"></label></span></div> <ul> <li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-1"><a href="#Production"><span class="tocnumber">1</span> <span class="toctext">Production</span></a> <ul> <li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-2"><a href="#Tanning"><span class="tocnumber">1.1</span> <span class="toctext">Tanning</span></a></li> <li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-3"><a href="#Oiling"><span class="tocnumber">1.2</span> <span class="toctext">Oiling</span></a> <ul> <li class="toclevel-3 tocsection-4"><a href="#Birch_oil"><span class="tocnumber">1.2.1</span> <span class="toctext">Birch oil</span></a></li> </ul> </li> <li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-5"><a href="#Dyeing"><span class="tocnumber">1.3</span> <span class="toctext">Dyeing</span></a></li> <li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-6"><a href="#Secrecy_of_its_manufacture"><span class="tocnumber">1.4</span> <span class="toctext">Secrecy of its manufacture</span></a></li> </ul> </li> <li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-7"><a href="#Uses"><span class="tocnumber">2</span> <span class="toctext">Uses</span></a> <ul> <li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-8"><a href="#Chairs"><span class="tocnumber">2.1</span> <span class="toctext">Chairs</span></a></li> <li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-9"><a href="#Footwear"><span class="tocnumber">2.2</span> <span class="toctext">Footwear</span></a></li> </ul> </li> <li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-10"><a href="#Perfume"><span class="tocnumber">3</span> <span class="toctext">Perfume</span></a></li> <li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-11"><a href="#Notes"><span class="tocnumber">4</span> <span class="toctext">Notes</span></a></li> <li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-12"><a href="#References"><span class="tocnumber">5</span> <span class="toctext">References</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </section><div class="mw-heading mw-heading2 section-heading" onclick="mfTempOpenSection(1)"><span class="indicator mf-icon mf-icon-expand mf-icon--small"></span><h2 id="Production">Production</h2><span class="mw-editsection"> <a role="button" href="/w/index.php?title=Russia_leather&action=edit&section=1" title="Edit section: Production" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet "> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--edit"></span> <span>edit</span> </a> </span> </div><section class="mf-section-1 collapsible-block" id="mf-section-1"> <p>Producing the leather involved three processes:<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <ul><li>Tanning the leather. This was a bark tanning process, similar to other vegetable-tanned leather.</li> <li>Saturating the tanned hide with birch oil. This is the most distinctive part of the process, giving Russia leather its water resistance and distinctive smell.</li> <li>Dyeing the leather either red or black. This was not an essential part of the process, but was characteristic.</li></ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Tanning">Tanning</h3><span class="mw-editsection"> <a role="button" href="/w/index.php?title=Russia_leather&action=edit&section=2" title="Edit section: Tanning" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet "> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--edit"></span> <span>edit</span> </a> </span> </div> <p>The tanning process was unexceptional amongst other <a href="/wiki/Vegetable_tanning" class="mw-redirect" title="Vegetable tanning">vegetable tanning</a> process using <a href="/wiki/Tanbark" title="Tanbark">tree bark</a>. It followed the usual steps of long soaking and cleaning in water, <a href="/wiki/Liming_(leather_processing)" title="Liming (leather processing)">liming</a> to remove hair, and then the tanning itself. </p><p>Tanning steeps the leather in a solution of <a href="/wiki/Tanbark" title="Tanbark">tanbark</a> for around five weeks, with twice daily agitation and weekly replacement of the 'tan', or tanning solution. A great quantity of tanbark is required, around 2,880 litres for 150 hides.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-3"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>i<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The tanbark used in Russia was the poplar willow <i><a href="/w/index.php?title=Salix_arenaria&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Salix arenaria (page does not exist)">Salix arenaria</a></i> or in <a href="/wiki/Siberia" title="Siberia">Siberia</a> the more readily available <a href="/wiki/Bast_fibre" title="Bast fibre">bast</a> (dark inner bark, beneath the papery bark) of the birch tree;<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> it was also reported that spruce bark would be equally effective.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Oiling">Oiling</h3><span class="mw-editsection"> <a role="button" href="/w/index.php?title=Russia_leather&action=edit&section=3" title="Edit section: Oiling" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet "> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--edit"></span> <span>edit</span> </a> </span> </div> <p>The <a href="/wiki/Oiling_(leather_processing)" title="Oiling (leather processing)">oiling</a> process is what really distinguishes Russia leather from others. Birch oil is applied to the flesh side of the leather, soaking through completely and saturating the leather entirely. Care is taken that it is only applied to one side of the leather, keeping it away from the grain side to avoid discolouration and poor dyeing later.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Pinniped" title="Pinniped">Seal</a> oil is also reported to have been used.<sup id="cite_ref-Chinnery,_Russia_leather_2-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Chinnery,_Russia_leather-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The production of Russia leather is thus a <a href="/wiki/Currier" title="Currier">currying</a> or curing process, more than merely tanning. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading4"><h4 id="Birch_oil">Birch oil</h4><span class="mw-editsection"> <a role="button" href="/w/index.php?title=Russia_leather&action=edit&section=4" title="Edit section: Birch oil" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet "> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--edit"></span> <span>edit</span> </a> </span> </div> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1236090951">.mw-parser-output .hatnote{font-style:italic}.mw-parser-output div.hatnote{padding-left:1.6em;margin-bottom:0.5em}.mw-parser-output .hatnote i{font-style:normal}.mw-parser-output .hatnote+link+.hatnote{margin-top:-0.5em}@media print{body.ns-0 .mw-parser-output .hatnote{display:none!important}}</style><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Further information: <a href="/wiki/Birch_tar" class="mw-redirect" title="Birch tar">Birch tar</a></div> <p>Production of <i> 'degot' </i>, the birch oil or <a href="/wiki/Birch_tar" class="mw-redirect" title="Birch tar">birch tar</a> for leathermaking was a specialist craft and practised by only a few villages that then supplied other leathermaking sites. It was a partial <a href="/wiki/Pyrolysis" title="Pyrolysis">pyrolysis</a> and <a href="/wiki/Distillation" title="Distillation">distillation</a> process, similar to the making of <a href="/wiki/Turpentine" title="Turpentine">turpentine</a>. </p><p>The papery birch bark was peeled from standing trees and collected. Trees were carefully chosen, older trees being favoured. The season for collecting bark was in late June, when there was the most <a href="/wiki/Sap" title="Sap">sap</a>. This bark was then pressed flat under weights and left for a week. </p><p>Distillation was performed by a process akin to <a href="/wiki/Charcoal_burning" class="mw-redirect" title="Charcoal burning">charcoal burning</a>, involving the entire village in a group effort. A large, shallow conical pit was dug, 100 feet (30 m) in diameter and lined with clay. A central drain was constructed, with an underground lined drain leading outwards to a collection pit beyond the burning pit. This drain was protected by a strainer dome to avoid ash entering the tar drain and to separate the burning bark from the flammable tar. The pit was then stacked with carefully arranged layers of birch bark, above an insulating and filtering layer of <a href="/wiki/Tilia" title="Tilia">linden</a> husks. The bark was very carefully stacked, so that there was no airspace between layers and so combustion could be controlled. A completed pit might be filled ten or twenty feet high (3–6 m). An airtight cover of earth, animal dung and damp fireproof material was placed over the pit, in the manner of a <a href="/wiki/Charcoal_clamp" class="mw-redirect" title="Charcoal clamp">charcoal clamp</a>. A fire of straw was then lit in the centre, spreading slowly outwards into the birch bark.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Most of the bark burners would then watch the burn proceeding, carefully sealing air leaks in any areas that were burning too fast. The tar ran down through the bark, filtered through the linden and then through the clay drain and into the collection pit. Others would ladle the collected tar from the pit and into barrels. A burn could go on for ten days continuously, day and night. A quantity of five hundred<i> 'fuhren' </i>of birch bark could give three thousand buckets of tar.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>A smaller-scale process was also carried out by some individuals using a kettle-like clay pot a couple of feet high.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>It was considered, even into the nineteenth century, that although the manufacture of 'Russia leather' could be successfully undertaken in the rest of Europe, production of the necessary birch oil would still require import from Russia or Poland.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> It was likely that other tree species could be found that would produce an oil with similar preservative properties, but the distinctive aroma of genuine Russia leather would require the traditional birch. </p><p><a href="/wiki/Cedar_oil" title="Cedar oil">Cedar oil</a> is still used today as a similar preservative ingredient in leather treatments applied to finished leathergoods, such as an ingredient in <a href="/wiki/British_Museum_leather_dressing" title="British Museum leather dressing">British Museum leather dressing</a>. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Dyeing">Dyeing</h3><span class="mw-editsection"> <a role="button" href="/w/index.php?title=Russia_leather&action=edit&section=5" title="Edit section: Dyeing" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet "> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--edit"></span> <span>edit</span> </a> </span> </div> <p>Before dyeing, the leather was softened by soaking with <a href="/wiki/Alum" title="Alum">alum</a> water and mechanical working.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>In later years, Russia leather was tooled to give a decorative surface texture. This was done by rolling it with a grooved brass roller, usually twice in slightly different directions to give a cross-hatched effect.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The usual colour of dyeing was red and this was performed with an alkaline liquor made by boiling chips of a dye wood,<i> 'fernambuk'</i>.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> This is described as red <a href="/wiki/Sandalwood" title="Sandalwood">sandalwood</a> (<i><a href="/wiki/Santalum" title="Santalum">Santalum</a> sp.</i>),<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> but by the dark colour resulting in the leather has also been identified as <a href="/wiki/Logwood" class="mw-redirect" title="Logwood">logwood</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>ii<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>A black leather was also produced, although in smaller quantity. This was considered a coarser, more utilitarian product and was usually applied to the horsehide Russia leather also produced for weatherproof exterior equipment such as horse harnesses. Two forms of dye were used, both based on black <a href="/w/index.php?title=Iron_tannate&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Iron tannate (page does not exist)">iron tannates</a> produced by reaction of iron salts with residual <a href="/wiki/Tannin" title="Tannin">tannin</a> in the leather. A similar colour is found in <a href="/wiki/Iron_gall_ink" title="Iron gall ink">iron gall ink</a>. The first dye used the normal fernambuk dye, with the addition of <a href="/wiki/Iron(II)_sulfate" title="Iron(II) sulfate">iron(II) sulfate</a> or <i><a href="/wiki/Green_vitriol" class="mw-redirect" title="Green vitriol">green vitriol</a></i>. This dye turned black immediately, reacting with tannin in the red dyewood.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The second, cheaper, black dye was produced by scrap iron dissolving into an acidic liquor, usually stale <a href="/wiki/Kvass" title="Kvass">kvass</a> (<i>quas</i> at that time), the ubiquitous Russian ryebread beer. This dye has no distinct colour to begin with but relies on reaction with the tannins of the leather. This cheaper dye is also <a href="/w/index.php?title=Fugitive_(dye)&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Fugitive (dye) (page does not exist)">fugitive</a> and fades in time to a rust-red colour.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Secrecy_of_its_manufacture">Secrecy of its manufacture</h3><span class="mw-editsection"> <a role="button" href="/w/index.php?title=Russia_leather&action=edit&section=6" title="Edit section: Secrecy of its manufacture" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet "> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--edit"></span> <span>edit</span> </a> </span> </div> <p>Although its manufacture does not appear to have been preserved as a secret, it was a process that could not be replicated outside Russia, despite attempts. Production gradually moved to other countries during the 19th century. In 1807, von Meidinger, who worked for an early Russia leather factory in <a href="/wiki/Vienna" title="Vienna">Vienna</a>, learned details of the process from a Russian tanner and described it. His view was that this process, once known and understood, could be replicated in Germany.<sup id="cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>In 1874, <a href="/wiki/Marshall_Jewell#U.S._Minister_to_Russia" title="Marshall Jewell">Marshall Jewell, U.S. Minister to Russia</a>, who was also a currier by trade, discovered the recipe and published it openly in the USA, rather than profiting personally by it.<sup id="cite_ref-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>3<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> </section><div class="mw-heading mw-heading2 section-heading" onclick="mfTempOpenSection(2)"><span class="indicator mf-icon mf-icon-expand mf-icon--small"></span><h2 id="Uses">Uses</h2><span class="mw-editsection"> <a role="button" href="/w/index.php?title=Russia_leather&action=edit&section=7" title="Edit section: Uses" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet "> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--edit"></span> <span>edit</span> </a> </span> </div><section class="mf-section-2 collapsible-block" id="mf-section-2"> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Chairs">Chairs</h3><span class="mw-editsection"> <a role="button" href="/w/index.php?title=Russia_leather&action=edit&section=8" title="Edit section: Chairs" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet "> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--edit"></span> <span>edit</span> </a> </span> </div> <p><a href="/wiki/Upholstery" title="Upholstery">Upholstered</a> <a href="/wiki/Chair" title="Chair">chairs</a> first began to become common in the 17th century, in the later period of the <a href="/w/index.php?title=Age_of_Oak&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Age of Oak (page does not exist)">Age of Oak</a>. These used expensive fabrics as a covering, costing far more than the wooden frame of the chair. Other, cheaper, chairs were extensively carved in wood – any sort of chair, rather than a <a href="/wiki/Stool_(seat)" title="Stool (seat)">stool</a>, was a luxury item. Leather, and Russia leather, was also used as an upholstery material.<sup id="cite_ref-Chinnery,_Russia_leather_2-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Chinnery,_Russia_leather-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The use of Russia leather in particular was encouraged by the <a href="/wiki/English_Civil_War" title="English Civil War">English Civil War</a> and the <a href="/wiki/Puritan" class="mw-redirect" title="Puritan">Puritan</a> styles it encouraged. Plain leather upholstery, even though an expensive item, was seen as less ostentatious and so more acceptable than either fabric or carving. </p><p>Leather was applied to simple <a href="/wiki/Backstool" class="mw-redirect" title="Backstool">backstools</a>, a chair with vertical rear posts and simple crosswise rails. These would be a commonplace chair today, but at the time it was more usual for chairs to have a solid wooden back. The leather was stretched across between the rails and nailed into place with large headed brass nails. Such undecorated chairs are a characteristic furniture style of the <a href="/wiki/Interregnum_(England)" title="Interregnum (England)">Interregnum</a> period. Only Russia leather was flexible enough to be used in this way. Inferior leathers, when used, would crack across the edges of the frame. A better technique with such leathers was to support the leather from beneath with interwoven strips of canvas webbing.<sup id="cite_ref-Chinnery,_Russia_leather_2-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Chinnery,_Russia_leather-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The odour of birch oil was recognised in the completed chairs and considered as a mark of quality. Russia leather chairs have been remarkably hard-wearing and examples have lasted in use into the 19th century, without recovering. When finally worn out, this was often by the surface of the leather having worn right through into a hole, still without any structural cracking of the leather, as a less flexible hide would fail. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Footwear">Footwear</h3><span class="mw-editsection"> <a role="button" href="/w/index.php?title=Russia_leather&action=edit&section=9" title="Edit section: Footwear" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet "> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--edit"></span> <span>edit</span> </a> </span> </div> <p>Russia leather was (and still is) commonly used for production of footwear. In Russia itself, it was usually used to make <a href="/wiki/Jackboots" class="mw-redirect" title="Jackboots">high boots (sapogi)</a>. In this craft, Russia leather was usually divided into two sorts: the more expensive <i>yalovka</i> (produced from calf skin) and the cheaper <i>yuft</i> (from all other kinds of animal skins). In Soviet times, yalovka leather was used to make army officers' field "Chrome" boots<sup id="cite_ref-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>iii<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>, and yuft leather, in combination with an artificial leather substitute called <a href="/wiki/Kirza" title="Kirza">kirza</a>, was used for the enlisted men's boots. Only high-ranking officers or the <a href="/wiki/Nomenklatura" title="Nomenklatura">nomenklatura</a> would have access to boots made from the quality of true russia leather. </p> </section><div class="mw-heading mw-heading2 section-heading" onclick="mfTempOpenSection(3)"><span class="indicator mf-icon mf-icon-expand mf-icon--small"></span><h2 id="Perfume">Perfume</h2><span class="mw-editsection"> <a role="button" href="/w/index.php?title=Russia_leather&action=edit&section=10" title="Edit section: Perfume" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet "> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--edit"></span> <span>edit</span> </a> </span> </div><section class="mf-section-3 collapsible-block" id="mf-section-3"> <p>The distinctive birch oil aroma, and its connotations of high quality, led to its use as a deliberate fragrance. </p> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Coco_Chanel" title="Coco Chanel">Coco Chanel</a>'s <i><a href="/wiki/Cuir_de_Russie" title="Cuir de Russie">Cuir de Russie</a></i> perfume, from 1927.</li> <li><a href="/wiki/PZ_Cussons" title="PZ Cussons">Cussons</a>' <a href="/wiki/Imperial_Leather" title="Imperial Leather">Imperial Leather</a> soap, from 1938</li> <li>The French perfume company, Parfums Regence, produces the male fragrance, Kölnisch Juchten</li></ul> </section><div class="mw-heading mw-heading2 section-heading" onclick="mfTempOpenSection(4)"><span class="indicator mf-icon mf-icon-expand mf-icon--small"></span><h2 id="Notes">Notes</h2><span class="mw-editsection"> <a role="button" href="/w/index.php?title=Russia_leather&action=edit&section=11" title="Edit section: Notes" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet "> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--edit"></span> <span>edit</span> </a> </span> </div><section class="mf-section-4 collapsible-block" id="mf-section-4"> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1239543626">.mw-parser-output .reflist{margin-bottom:0.5em;list-style-type:decimal}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .reflist{font-size:90%}}.mw-parser-output .reflist .references{font-size:100%;margin-bottom:0;list-style-type:inherit}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-2{column-width:30em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-3{column-width:25em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns{margin-top:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns ol{margin-top:0}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns li{page-break-inside:avoid;break-inside:avoid-column}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-alpha{list-style-type:upper-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-roman{list-style-type:upper-roman}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-alpha{list-style-type:lower-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-greek{list-style-type:lower-greek}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-roman{list-style-type:lower-roman}</style><div class="reflist reflist-lower-roman"> <div class="mw-references-wrap"><ol class="references"> <li id="cite_note-3"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-3">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">This is the quantity of <i>bark</i> required to make the tan mixture. The liquid volume is considerably more than this.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-4"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-4">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">The use of <a href="/wiki/Logwood" class="mw-redirect" title="Logwood">logwood</a> is unlikely for dyeing here, for two reasons. First, logwood gives a deep red, but only in acidic solutions. In an alkaline dye bath, logwood gives a blue colour. The dyeing process for Russia leather was based on lime, i.e., strongly alkaline. Second, sandalwood is produced across the Indian subcontinent, with trade routes into Russia via Afghanistan. Logwood is a <a href="/wiki/New_World" title="New World">New World</a> species of <a href="/wiki/Central_America" title="Central America">Central America</a>.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-6"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-6">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">i.e. cheap <a href="/wiki/Chrome_tanning" class="mw-redirect" title="Chrome tanning">chrome-tanned leather</a>, albeit made from an animal hide.</span> </li> </ol></div></div> </section><div class="mw-heading mw-heading2 section-heading" onclick="mfTempOpenSection(5)"><span class="indicator mf-icon mf-icon-expand mf-icon--small"></span><h2 id="References">References</h2><span class="mw-editsection"> <a role="button" href="/w/index.php?title=Russia_leather&action=edit&section=12" title="Edit section: References" class="cdx-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--icon-only cdx-button--weight-quiet "> <span class="minerva-icon minerva-icon--edit"></span> <span>edit</span> </a> </span> </div><section class="mf-section-5 collapsible-block" id="mf-section-5"> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1239543626"><div class="reflist"> <div class="mw-references-wrap"><ol class="references"> <li id="cite_note-HCC,_Juchten-1"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-11"><sup><i><b>l</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-12"><sup><i><b>m</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-13"><sup><i><b>n</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-14"><sup><i><b>o</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-15"><sup><i><b>p</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-HCC,_Juchten_1-16"><sup><i><b>q</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1238218222">.mw-parser-output cite.citation{font-style:inherit;word-wrap:break-word}.mw-parser-output .citation q{quotes:"\"""\"""'""'"}.mw-parser-output .citation:target{background-color:rgba(0,127,255,0.133)}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-free.id-lock-free a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/65/Lock-green.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited.id-lock-limited a,.mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration.id-lock-registration a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d6/Lock-gray-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription.id-lock-subscription a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/aa/Lock-red-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4c/Wikisource-logo.svg")right 0.1em center/12px no-repeat}body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-free a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background-size:contain;padding:0 1em 0 0}.mw-parser-output .cs1-code{color:inherit;background:inherit;border:none;padding:inherit}.mw-parser-output .cs1-hidden-error{display:none;color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-visible-error{color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{display:none;color:#085;margin-left:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-left{padding-left:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-right{padding-right:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .citation .mw-selflink{font-weight:inherit}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .cs1-format{font-size:95%}html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}</style><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.thehcc.org/Jucten.pdf">"Production of Russia Leather"</a> <span class="cs1-format">(PDF)</span>. The Honourable Cordwainers' Company. 1807.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=unknown&rft.btitle=Production+of+Russia+Leather&rft.pub=The+Honourable+Cordwainers%27+Company&rft.date=1807&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thehcc.org%2FJucten.pdf&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3ARussia+leather" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-Chinnery,_Russia_leather-2"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-Chinnery,_Russia_leather_2-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Chinnery,_Russia_leather_2-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Chinnery,_Russia_leather_2-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Chinnery,_Russia_leather_2-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFChinnery" class="citation book cs1">Chinnery, Victor (1979). <i>Oak Furniture: The British Tradition</i>. Woodbridge, Suffolk: Antique Collector's Club. pp. <span class="nowrap">135–</span>139. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-902028-61-8" title="Special:BookSources/0-902028-61-8"><bdi>0-902028-61-8</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Oak+Furniture%3A+The+British+Tradition&rft.place=Woodbridge%2C+Suffolk&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E135-%3C%2Fspan%3E139&rft.pub=Antique+Collector%27s+Club&rft.date=1979&rft.isbn=0-902028-61-8&rft.aulast=Chinnery&rft.aufirst=Victor&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3ARussia+leather" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-5"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-5">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFHolloway1885" class="citation book cs1">Holloway, Laura Carter (1885). <i>Famous American Fortunes and the Men who Have Made Them</i>. p. 443.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Famous+American+Fortunes+and+the+Men+who+Have+Made+Them&rft.pages=443&rft.date=1885&rft.aulast=Holloway&rft.aufirst=Laura+Carter&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3ARussia+leather" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> </ol></div></div> <div class="navbox-styles"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1129693374">.mw-parser-output .hlist dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul{margin:0;padding:0}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt,.mw-parser-output .hlist li{margin:0;display:inline}.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline ul,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl 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