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Here’s what the industry should know." property="og:description" name="description"/><meta content="https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/the-influence-of-woke-consumers-on-fashion" name="url" property="og:url"/><meta content="index,follow,all" name="robots"/><meta content="https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/the%20influence%20of%20woke%20consumers%20on%20fashion/influence-woke-consumers-fashion-1536x1536-500.jpg" property="og:image" name="image"/><meta content="{37764CAC-76E2-4B9D-9064-696B481254D4}" name="sid"/><link href="https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/the-influence-of-woke-consumers-on-fashion" rel="canonical"/><meta content="Consumer & Retail" name="practice-name"/><meta content="N23" name="practice-code"/><meta content="summary_large_image" name="twitter:card"/><meta content="@mckinsey" name="twitter:site"/><title>The influence of Gen Z on fashion | McKinsey</title><meta content="Insights & Publications" name="sections"/><meta content="The influence of &lsquo;woke&rsquo; consumers on fashion" name="twitter:title"/><meta content="Gen Z fashion trends are rooted in social and environmental issues. 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data-component="mdc-c-module-wrapper" data-module-theme="dark" data-module-background="deep-blue" data-module-category="AnchoredHero" class="ArticleDefault_mck-c-article-default__SfYQE"><style></style><div data-component="mdc-c-background-image" class="mdc-c-bg-image___GJdv1_2734c4f background-image-article-default ArticleDefault_mck-c-article-default__parallax-container__fZ7Iq"></div><div class="ArticleDefault_mck-c-article-default__gradient__Uu21n"></div><div class="ArticleDefault_mck-c-article-default__wrapper-content__XOe9C"><div class="mck-o-container"><div class="mck-o-container--wrapped mck-o-container--mobile-spacing mdc-u-grid mdc-u-grid-col-lg-12"><div data-component="mdc-c-content-block" class="mdc-c-content-block___7p6Lu_2734c4f mdc-u-grid-col-lg-start-1 mdc-u-grid-col-lg-span-10"><div><h1 data-component="mdc-c-heading" class="mdc-c-heading___0fM1W_2734c4f mdc-u-ts-2 mck-u-animation-slide-down ArticleDefault_mck-c-article-default__heading__bv6rL"><div>The influence of ‘woke’ consumers on fashion</div></h1></div><div data-component="mdc-c-description" class="mdc-c-description___SrnQP_2734c4f mdc-u-ts-10 mck-u-animation-blur-in-800 ArticleDefault_mck-c-article-default__description__sjoe9"><div><time datetime="2019-02-12T00:00:00Z">February 12, 2019</time> | Article</div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="mck-o-container"><div class="mck-o-container--wrapped mck-o-container--mobile-spacing mdc-u-grid mdc-u-grid-gutter-xxl"><section data-layer-region="article-body-header" class="mdc-u-grid mdc-u-grid-col-md-12 mck-u-animation-blur-in-400 byline-share-container"><div class="mdc-u-grid-col-md-start-2 mdc-u-grid-col-md-end-8 mdc-u-grid-col-lg-start-3 mdc-u-grid-col-lg-end-8 mdc-u-ts-9"><span> </span><span class="AuthorsByLine_mck-c-authors-byline__author__XdrlD"><span class="AuthorsByLine_mck-c-authors-byline__no-wrap__Ced0j">Imran Amed </span></span><span class="AuthorsByLine_mck-c-authors-byline__author__XdrlD"><span class="AuthorsByLine_mck-c-authors-byline__no-wrap__Ced0j"><a data-component="mdc-c-link" href="/our-people/anita-balchandani" class="mdc-c-link-inline___7DRrt_2734c4f mdc-c-link-inline--secondary___YKoOK_2734c4f"><span class="mdc-c-link__label___Pfqtd_2734c4f">Anita Balchandani</span></a> </span></span><span class="AuthorsByLine_mck-c-authors-byline__author__XdrlD"><span class="AuthorsByLine_mck-c-authors-byline__no-wrap__Ced0j">Marco Beltrami </span></span><span class="AuthorsByLine_mck-c-authors-byline__author__XdrlD"><span class="AuthorsByLine_mck-c-authors-byline__no-wrap__Ced0j">Achim Berg </span></span><span class="AuthorsByLine_mck-c-authors-byline__author__XdrlD"><span class="AuthorsByLine_mck-c-authors-byline__no-wrap__Ced0j">Saskia Hedrich<span> </span></span></span><span class="AuthorsByLine_mck-c-authors-byline__author__XdrlD"><span class="AuthorsByLine_mck-c-authors-byline__no-wrap__Ced0j">Felix Rölkens</span></span></div><div class="mdc-u-grid-col-md-start-8 mdc-u-grid-col-md-end-12 mdc-u-grid-col-lg-start-8 mdc-u-grid-col-lg-end-11 ArticleContent_mck-c-article-content__share-tools__kWRRw"></div></section><section class="mdc-u-grid mdc-u-grid-col-md-12 mck-u-animation-blur-in-400"><div class="mdc-u-grid-col-md-start-2 mdc-u-grid-col-md-end-12 mdc-u-grid-col-lg-start-3 mdc-u-grid-col-lg-end-11"><div data-component="mdc-c-description" class="mdc-c-description___SrnQP_2734c4f mdc-u-ts-5"><div class="mck-u-links-inline">Shoppers, particularly younger ones, have social and environmental issues on their minds. Here’s what the fashion industry should know about the trend.</div></div></div></section><main data-layer-region="article-body" class="mdc-u-grid mdc-u-grid-gutter-xxl"><div class="mdc-u-grid mdc-u-grid-col-1 mdc-u-grid-col-md-12"><div class="mdc-u-grid-col-md-start-2 mdc-u-grid-col-md-end-12 mdc-u-grid-col-lg-start-3 mdc-u-grid-col-lg-end-11"><div class="mdc-o-content-body mck-u-dropcap"><div data-component="mdc-c-module-wrapper" data-module-theme="default" data-module-background="transparent" data-module-category="" class="DownloadsSidebar_mck-c-downloads-sidebar__iFmyt mck-o-xs-right-span"><div data-layer-region="downloads-right-rail"><h3 data-component="mdc-c-heading" class="mdc-c-heading___0fM1W_2734c4f mdc-c-heading--title___5qyOB_2734c4f mdc-c-heading--border___K8dj3_2734c4f"></h3><div><div data-component="mdc-c-link-container" class="mdc-c-link-container___xefGu_2734c4f"><a data-component="mdc-c-link" href="/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our insights/the influence of woke consumers on fashion/the-state-of-fashion-2019.pdf" class="DownloadsSidebar_mck-c-downloads-sidebar__download-link__fPqFQ mdc-c-link___lBbY1_2734c4f" target="_blank" data-layer-event-prefix="Download Link" data-layer-action="click" data-layer-report-type="" data-layer-file-name="the-state-of-fashion-2019" data-layer-report-name="the-state-of-fashion-2019>"><span data-component="mdc-c-icon" class="mdc-c-icon___oi7ef_2734c4f mdc-c-icon--size-md___yi5fA_2734c4f mck-download-icon"></span><span class="mdc-c-link__label___Pfqtd_2734c4f"> (PDF-3 MB)</span></a></div></div></div></div> <p><strong>Younger consumers are seriously concerned</strong> with social and environmental causes, which many regard as being the defining issues of our time. They increasingly back their beliefs with their shopping habits, favoring brands that are aligned with their values and avoiding those that don’t.</p>  <p>Brands are responding by integrating social and environmental themes into their products and services. The benefits of these policies are clear, but as the causes that some brands champion venture into controversial territory there are risks and consequences for those that fail to get it right. Against that background, in <a href="/sitecore/service/notfound.aspx?item=web%3a%7b7a51189f-7b7e-4ab0-a8a9-463d8d7d1d03%7d%40en">our latest <em>State of Fashion</em> report</a>—written in partnership with <a href="http://www.businessoffashion.com">the Business of Fashion (BoF)</a>—we dived deeply into the rise of “woke” consumers as one of ten trends the fashion industry should watch in 2019.</p> <p>Nine in ten <a href="/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-gen-z">Generation Z consumers</a> believe companies have a responsibility to address environmental and social issues. The inclusion of the latter is a departure from the views of the previous generation of millennials, which had a greener focus. The change is reflected in the higher profile of social issues and in campaigns such as #metoo, #blacklivesmatter, and #timesup, all of which have entered the mainstream lexicon over the past couple of years.</p> <p>The <a href="/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-for-companies">views of Gen Z</a> and millennial consumers are critical. Together, these cohorts represent around $350 billion of spending power in the United States alone (approximately $150 billion spent by Gen Z and around $200 billion by millennials); additionally, Gen Z will account for 40 percent of global consumers by 2020. But concern over environmental and social issues is not restricted to younger consumers. Some two-thirds of consumers worldwide say they would switch, avoid, or boycott brands based on their stance on controversial issues. Half of these regard themselves as activists, driven by passion. The other half are less dogmatic, tailoring their decision to the situation at hand.</p> <p>Still, the dynamics behind the numbers are compelling. Over the past three years a third of consumers worldwide have expanded the scope of their purchasing decisions to incorporate principled values and views. A new global ethos is emerging, and billions of people are using consumption as a means to express their deeply held beliefs.</p> <p>Signs of this evolving agenda can be found beyond consumer sentiment, too. Fashion companies are showing signs of getting “woke” (a phrase defined as “alert to injustice in society,” popularized on social media). For example, based on a “data scrape” of more than 2,000 fashion retailers, the appearance of the word “feminist” on homepages and newsletters increased by a factor of more than five from 2016 to 2018.</p> <p>Many brands and retailers, including Levi Strauss and Nike, are on board, and both companies have taken a clear stance on social issues in recent months—Nike supporting Colin Kaepernick, the face of the NFL’s “anthem protests,” and Levi’s fronting a campaign against gun violence. Gucci has also supported that cause, supporting a student-led march calling for more gun control.</p> <p>And American designer Jeremy Scott appeared at his New York Fashion Week show with a T-shirt urging, “Tell your senator no on Kavanaugh,” in reference to the then-embattled US Supreme Court justice undergoing confirmation hearings.</p> <p>In Asia, Fast Retailing, the parent company of Japanese retailer Uniqlo, has made efforts to hire refugees and, since 2016, has donated more than $5 million to the support of refugee initiatives in Asia. British retailer ASOS has taken a different approach to support refugees, launching an exclusive lingerie line in partnership with designer Katharine Hamnett and Help Refugees, a nongovernmental organization that will receive all profits from the initiative.</p> <p>Some fashion players have attached collections and ranges to specific causes—for example, H&M launched a Pride collection in 2018 in support of the LGBTQ+ community, and Balenciaga collaborated with World Food Programme, donning its slogan, “Saving Lives, Changing Lives.” And others have geared campaigns to reflect beliefs; in a 2018 campaign to promote diversity, for example, Moschino switched to using only models of color.</p> <p>Some companies are taking things a step further, putting purpose at the heart of their strategy and operations. There are growing numbers of B-Corporations, which are certified to have considered the impact of their decisions on people, society, and the planet (exhibit). Companies including Ben & Jerry’s, Danone, and Patagonia are B-certified. In the fashion, apparel, and beauty sector, the number of B-corps had risen to nearly 200 as of April 2018, compared with just seven in 2010. Athleta promises that 40 percent of its products are made of recycled and sustainable materials, while Allbirds and Eileen Fisher have made similar commitments. The former donates returned used shoes to charity. We would not be surprised if at least one $500 million–plus fashion company became a B-corp in 2019.</p> <div data-component="mdc-c-module-wrapper" data-module-theme="default" data-module-background="transparent" data-module-category="" class="mck-c-inline-module-container mck-o-sm-left-span"><div class="mdc-u-grid mdc-u-grid-gutter-lg mdc-u-grid-col-sm-1 mdc-u-grid--align-start mdc-u-mb-3 GenericItem_mck-c-generic-item__sGwKL"><div data-component="mdc-c-content-block" class="mdc-c-content-block___7p6Lu_2734c4f mdc-u-grid-gutter-xs GenericItem_mck-c-generic-item__content__gq1m0"><div class="mck-c-eyebrow mdc-u-ts-10"><span> </span></div></div></div><div class="mck-u-inline-module-border-top mck-u-inline-module-border-bottom"><picture data-component="mdc-c-picture" class="Exhibit_mck-c-exhibit__image__pyIDm"><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/the%20influence%20of%20woke%20consumers%20on%20fashion/svgz-influence-woke-consumers-fashion-ex1-inset.svgz?cq=50&cpy=Center"/><img alt="The number of B-corporations is on the rise. " src="/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/the%20influence%20of%20woke%20consumers%20on%20fashion/svgz-influence-woke-consumers-fashion-ex1-inset.svgz?cq=50&cpy=Center" loading="lazy"/></picture></div><div class="mck-u-sr-only"></div></div> <p>Notably, environmentally and socially focused companies are considered by younger cohorts to be better prospects as employers, and the vast majority say they would be more loyal to companies that are aligned with those values. Commitment to tracking organizational key performance indicators is critical, as LVMH has done, setting out to have equal gender representation among executive ranks by 2020. A commitment to values on a group level can have impact on its brands’ culture. As mentioned by Balenciaga chief executive, Cédric Charbit, “I think the fact the brand belongs to Kering, and having Kering expressing commitment towards sustainability and values as a group, makes a difference. You work in an environment where this matters, this exists, and we all are committed to this.”</p> <p>Not all causes that fashion brands advocate are universally popular, and these can come with significant risks. The NFL “anthem protest” was a divisive issue in the United States, creating a mixture of applause and backlash for Nike. Still, it created earned media exposure worth more than $163 million, within just days of the campaign launch. Besides potential controversy from supporting divisive causes, brands may also risk being perceived as hypocritical if they do not carefully ensure consistency in their messages and actions. In 2018, Primark was severely criticized and called unethical for releasing a line of Pride-themed T-shirts that were produced in Turkey, a country that is ranked the third worst in Europe for LGBTQ+ equality. Nike recently faced pressure from civil-society groups to ensure fair wages are paid to workers of suppliers in emerging markets.</p> <p>Another reason that brand alignment with causes can backfire is that discerning consumers can easily spot the difference between gimmicks and a genuine purpose that aligns with the values of the organization. Companies can expect consumers to closely examine the level of continuity across campaigns and the nature of their strategic and operational decisions, as well as their tone.</p> <div data-component="mdc-c-module-wrapper" data-module-theme="default" data-module-background="transparent" data-module-category="" class="mck-c-disruptor1up mck-o-md-center mck-u-inline-module-border-top mck-u-inline-module-border-bottom mck-u-screen-only" data-layer-region="disruptor-1up"><div class="mdc-u-grid mdc-u-grid-gutter-md mdc-u-grid-col-lg-12 mdc-u-grid-col-md-12 "><div class="mdc-u-grid-col-lg-span-4 mdc-u-grid-col-md-span-5 Disruptor1Up_mck-c-disruptor1up__image___2Gc4"><picture data-component="mdc-c-picture"><img alt="The State of Fashion 2019: A year of awakening" src="/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/the%20state%20of%20fashion%202019%20a%20year%20of%20awakening/state-of-fashion-2019-1536x1536-250.jpg?cq=50&mh=145&car=16:9&cpy=Center" loading="lazy"/></picture></div><div class="mdc-u-grid-col-lg-span-8 mdc-u-grid-col-md-span-7"><header data-component="mdc-c-header" class="mdc-c-header"><div class="mdc-c-header__block___i1Lg-_2734c4f"><h3 data-component="mdc-c-heading" class="mdc-c-heading___0fM1W_2734c4f"><div>The State of Fashion 2019: A year of awakening</div></h3></div></header><div data-component="mdc-c-link-container" class="mdc-c-link-container___xefGu_2734c4f mdc-c-link-container--display-column___X0HDD_2734c4f mck-c-disruptor1up__content Disruptor1Up_mck-c-disruptor1up__content--links__VV4lE mdc-u-grid-gutter-md"><a data-component="mdc-c-link" href="" class="mdc-c-link-cta___NBQVi_2734c4f"><span class="mdc-c-link__label___Pfqtd_2734c4f">Read the report</span><span data-component="mdc-c-icon" class="mdc-c-icon___oi7ef_2734c4f mck-link-arrow-right-icon"></span></a></div></div></div></div> <p>It is worth noting that right now the movement is much more pronounced in Western markets, and in certain territories it is not at all appropriate for brands to align with certain issues. While consumers in Western markets currently do tend to dominate the movement toward environmental and social conscience, that is likely to change. In the coming year we expect rising numbers of consumers in other markets to increase their levels of commitment. Darshan Mehta, founder and chief executive of Reliance Brands, a subsidiary of the Indian retail conglomerate Reliance Industries, believes “the number of voices is not enough to aggregate to anything significant [yet], but it’s a small wave and a tsunami may wash onto our shores [in India] in the years to come.”</p> <p>Despite the many associated risks, some large brands will be willing to court controversy to express beliefs, particularly luxury players, which will seek to attract younger consumer groups looking to trade up. There are clear benefits from doing so, and the more that companies express an authentic view, the more that those who don’t will be exposed. And while there is a counterargument that expression of controversial views may deter some customers, the calculation, of course, is that the loyalty rewarded by its remaining customers matters more.</p> <p><em>For more on all ten trends that will define the fashion agenda in 2019, see <a href="/sitecore/service/notfound.aspx?item=web%3a%7b7a51189f-7b7e-4ab0-a8a9-463d8d7d1d03%7d%40en"></a></em><a href="/sitecore/service/notfound.aspx?item=web%3a%7b7a51189f-7b7e-4ab0-a8a9-463d8d7d1d03%7d%40en">The State of Fashion 2019: A year of awakening</a>.</p></div><div class="container-placeholder"></div></div></div><div class="mdc-u-grid mdc-u-grid-gutter-xl"><section role="contentinfo" data-layer-region="article-about-authors" class="mdc-u-grid mdc-u-grid-col-md-12 AboutAuthor_mck-c-about-author__nRJzu"><div class="mdc-u-grid-col-md-start-2 mdc-u-grid-col-md-end-12 mdc-u-grid-col-lg-start-3 mdc-u-grid-col-lg-end-11"><h5 data-component="mdc-c-heading" class="mdc-c-heading___0fM1W_2734c4f mdc-c-heading--title___5qyOB_2734c4f mdc-c-heading--border___K8dj3_2734c4f mdc-u-align-center"></h5><div data-component="mdc-c-description" class="mdc-c-description___SrnQP_2734c4f mdc-u-ts-8 mck-u-links-inline mck-u-links-inline--secondary mdc-u-mt-5"><div><p><strong><a href="/our-people/anita-balchandani">Anita Balchandani</a></strong> is a partner in McKinsey’s London office, where <strong>Marco Beltrami</strong> is a consultant; <strong>Achim Berg</strong> is a senior partner in the Frankfurt office, <strong>Saskia Hedrich</strong> is a senior expert in the Munich office, and <strong>Felix Rölkens</strong> is an associate partner in the Berlin office. <strong>Imran Amed</strong> is the founder, editor-in-chief, and CEO of the Business of Fashion.</p></div></div></div></section><section class="mdc-u-grid mdc-u-grid-col-md-12 mck-u-screen-only"><div class="mdc-u-grid-col-md-start-2 mdc-u-grid-col-md-end-12 mdc-u-grid-col-lg-start-5 mdc-u-grid-col-lg-end-9"><h5 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class="RelatedArticle_mck-c-article-related__GGA76 mck-u-screen-only" data-layer-region="related-articles"><div class="mdc-o-container__wrapper is-wrapped mdc-u-spaced-mobile"><h5 data-component="mdc-c-heading" class="mdc-c-heading___0fM1W_2734c4f mdc-c-heading--title___5qyOB_2734c4f mdc-u-align-center">Related Articles</h5><div class="mdc-u-grid mdc-u-grid-col-md-2 RelatedArticle_items-container__s2uD0"><div class="mdc-u-grid mdc-u-grid-gutter-lg Card_card__diA2r Card_hover-effect__RGb9b"><div class="Card_wrapper-image__8b4P6"><a data-component="mdc-c-link" href="/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-for-companies" class="mdc-c-link___lBbY1_2734c4f"><picture data-component="mdc-c-picture" class="Card_wrapper-image__8b4P6"><style>.picture-uniqueKey-&lsqu-0 { aspect-ratio: 16/9 }</style><img alt="‘True Gen’: Generation Z and its implications for companies" class="picture-uniqueKey-&lsqu-0" 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runway</div></a></h6></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></main></div><script id="__NEXT_DATA__" type="application/json">{"props":{"pageProps":{"locale":"en","dictionary":{},"sitecoreContext":{"route":{"name":"The influence of woke consumers on fashion","displayName":"The influence of woke consumers on fashion","fields":null,"databaseName":"web","deviceId":"fe5d7fdf-89c0-4d99-9aa3-b5fbd009c9f3","itemId":"37764cac-76e2-4b9d-9064-696b481254d4","itemLanguage":"en","itemVersion":1,"layoutId":"ae753eb4-a035-40b4-83bf-4b4438df6742","templateId":"683910db-02ba-40ba-92e7-726c880160a9","templateName":"ArticleJSS","placeholders":{"jss-main":[{"uid":"232bb7e9-289f-492d-a916-2b6185e44a84","componentName":"ArticleTemplate","dataSource":"","fields":{"data":{"articleTemplate":{"title":{"jsonValue":{"value":"The influence of \u0026lsquo;woke\u0026rsquo; consumers on fashion"}},"sEOTitle":{"value":"The influence of Gen Z on fashion"},"description":{"jsonValue":{"value":"Shoppers, particularly younger ones, have social and environmental issues on their minds. Here\u0026rsquo;s what the fashion industry should know about the trend."}},"sEODescription":{"value":"Gen Z fashion trends are rooted in social and environmental issues. Here’s what the industry should know."},"displayDate":{"jsonValue":{"value":"2019-02-12T00:00:00Z"}},"body":{"value":"[[DownloadsSidebar]]\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYounger consumers are seriously concerned\u003c/strong\u003e with social and environmental causes, which many regard as being the defining issues of our time. They increasingly back their beliefs with their shopping habits, favoring brands that are aligned with their values and avoiding those that don\u0026rsquo;t.\u003c/p\u003e\n[[Video 1]]\n\u003cp\u003eBrands are responding by integrating social and environmental themes into their products and services. The benefits of these policies are clear, but as the causes that some brands champion venture into controversial territory there are risks and consequences for those that fail to get it right. Against that background, in \u003ca href=\"/sitecore/service/notfound.aspx?item=web%3a%7b7a51189f-7b7e-4ab0-a8a9-463d8d7d1d03%7d%40en\"\u003eour latest \u003cem\u003eState of Fashion\u003c/em\u003e report\u003c/a\u003e\u0026mdash;written in partnership with \u003ca href=\"http://www.businessoffashion.com\"\u003ethe Business of Fashion (BoF)\u003c/a\u003e\u0026mdash;we dived deeply into the rise of \u0026ldquo;woke\u0026rdquo; consumers as one of ten trends the fashion industry should watch in 2019.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNine in ten \u003ca href=\"/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-gen-z\"\u003eGeneration Z consumers\u003c/a\u003e\u0026nbsp;believe companies have a responsibility to address environmental and social issues. The inclusion of the latter is a departure from the views of the previous generation of millennials, which had a greener focus. The change is reflected in the higher profile of social issues and in campaigns such as #metoo, #blacklivesmatter, and #timesup, all of which have entered the mainstream lexicon over the past couple of years.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-for-companies\"\u003eviews of Gen Z\u003c/a\u003e and millennial consumers are critical. Together, these cohorts represent around $350 billion of spending power in the United States alone (approximately $150 billion spent by Gen Z and around $200 billion by millennials); additionally, Gen Z will account for 40 percent of global consumers by 2020. But concern over environmental and social issues is not restricted to younger consumers. Some two-thirds of consumers worldwide say they would switch, avoid, or boycott brands based on their stance on controversial issues. Half of these regard themselves as activists, driven by passion. The other half are less dogmatic, tailoring their decision to the situation at hand.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStill, the dynamics behind the numbers are compelling. Over the past three years a third of consumers worldwide have expanded the scope of their purchasing decisions to incorporate principled values and views. A new global ethos is emerging, and billions of people are using consumption as a means to express their deeply held beliefs.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSigns of this evolving agenda can be found beyond consumer sentiment, too. Fashion companies are showing signs of getting \u0026ldquo;woke\u0026rdquo; (a phrase defined as \u0026ldquo;alert to injustice in society,\u0026rdquo; popularized on social media). For example, based on a \u0026ldquo;data scrape\u0026rdquo; of more than 2,000 fashion retailers, the appearance of the word \u0026ldquo;feminist\u0026rdquo; on homepages and newsletters increased by a factor of more than five from 2016 to 2018.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMany brands and retailers, including Levi Strauss and Nike, are on board, and both companies have taken a clear stance on social issues in recent months\u0026mdash;Nike supporting Colin Kaepernick, the face of the NFL\u0026rsquo;s \u0026ldquo;anthem protests,\u0026rdquo; and Levi\u0026rsquo;s fronting a campaign against gun violence. Gucci has also supported that cause, supporting a student-led march calling for more gun control.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnd American designer Jeremy Scott appeared at his New York Fashion Week show with a T-shirt urging, \u0026ldquo;Tell your senator no on Kavanaugh,\u0026rdquo; in reference to the then-embattled US Supreme Court justice undergoing confirmation hearings.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn Asia, Fast Retailing, the parent company of Japanese retailer Uniqlo, has made efforts to hire refugees and, since 2016, has donated more than $5 million to the support of refugee initiatives in Asia. British retailer ASOS has taken a different approach to support refugees, launching an exclusive lingerie line in partnership with designer Katharine Hamnett and Help Refugees, a nongovernmental organization that will receive all profits from the initiative.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSome fashion players have attached collections and ranges to specific causes\u0026mdash;for example, H\u0026amp;M launched a Pride collection in 2018 in support of the LGBTQ+ community, and Balenciaga collaborated with World Food Programme, donning its slogan, \u0026ldquo;Saving Lives, Changing Lives.\u0026rdquo; And others have geared campaigns to reflect beliefs; in a 2018 campaign to promote diversity, for example, Moschino switched to using only models of color.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSome companies are taking things a step further, putting purpose at the heart of their strategy and operations. There are growing numbers of B-Corporations, which are certified to have considered the impact of their decisions on people, society, and the planet (exhibit). Companies including Ben \u0026amp; Jerry\u0026rsquo;s, Danone, and Patagonia are B-certified. In the fashion, apparel, and beauty sector, the number of B-corps had risen to nearly 200 as of April 2018, compared with just seven in 2010. Athleta promises that 40 percent of its products are made of recycled and sustainable materials, while Allbirds and Eileen Fisher have made similar commitments. The former donates returned used shoes to charity. We would not be surprised if at least one $500 million\u0026ndash;plus fashion company became a B-corp in 2019.\u003c/p\u003e\n[[Exhibit 1]]\n\u003cp\u003eNotably, environmentally and socially focused companies are considered by younger cohorts to be better prospects as employers, and the vast majority say they would be more loyal to companies that are aligned with those values. Commitment to tracking organizational key performance indicators is critical, as LVMH has done, setting out to have equal gender representation among executive ranks by 2020. A commitment to values on a group level can have impact on its brands\u0026rsquo; culture. As mentioned by Balenciaga chief executive, C\u0026eacute;dric Charbit, \u0026ldquo;I think the fact the brand belongs to Kering, and having Kering expressing commitment towards sustainability and values as a group, makes a difference. You work in an environment where this matters, this exists, and we all are committed to this.\u0026rdquo;\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot all causes that fashion brands advocate are universally popular, and these can come with significant risks. The NFL \u0026ldquo;anthem protest\u0026rdquo; was a divisive issue in the United States, creating a mixture of applause and backlash for Nike. Still, it created earned media exposure worth more than $163 million, within just days of the campaign launch. Besides potential controversy from supporting divisive causes, brands may also risk being perceived as hypocritical if they do not carefully ensure consistency in their messages and actions. In 2018, Primark was severely criticized and called unethical for releasing a line of Pride-themed T-shirts that were produced in Turkey, a country that is ranked the third worst in Europe for LGBTQ+ equality. Nike recently faced pressure from civil-society groups to ensure fair wages are paid to workers of suppliers in emerging markets.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother reason that brand alignment with causes can backfire is that discerning consumers can easily spot the difference between gimmicks and a genuine purpose that aligns with the values of the organization. Companies can expect consumers to closely examine the level of continuity across campaigns and the nature of their strategic and operational decisions, as well as their tone.\u003c/p\u003e\n[[Disruptor1UP dis1]]\n\u003cp\u003eIt is worth noting that right now the movement is much more pronounced in Western markets, and in certain territories it is not at all appropriate for brands to align with certain issues. While consumers in Western markets currently do tend to dominate the movement toward environmental and social conscience, that is likely to change. In the coming year we expect rising numbers of consumers in other markets to increase their levels of commitment. Darshan Mehta, founder and chief executive of Reliance Brands, a subsidiary of the Indian retail conglomerate Reliance Industries, believes \u0026ldquo;the number of voices is not enough to aggregate to anything significant [yet], but it\u0026rsquo;s a small wave and a tsunami may wash onto our shores [in India] in the years to come.\u0026rdquo;\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDespite the many associated risks, some large brands will be willing to court controversy to express beliefs, particularly luxury players, which will seek to attract younger consumer groups looking to trade up. There are clear benefits from doing so, and the more that companies express an authentic view, the more that those who don\u0026rsquo;t will be exposed. And while there is a counterargument that expression of controversial views may deter some customers, the calculation, of course, is that the loyalty rewarded by its remaining customers matters more.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eFor more on all ten trends that will define the fashion agenda in 2019, see \u003ca href=\"/sitecore/service/notfound.aspx?item=web%3a%7b7a51189f-7b7e-4ab0-a8a9-463d8d7d1d03%7d%40en\"\u003e\u003c/a\u003e\u003c/em\u003e\u003ca href=\"/sitecore/service/notfound.aspx?item=web%3a%7b7a51189f-7b7e-4ab0-a8a9-463d8d7d1d03%7d%40en\"\u003eThe State of Fashion 2019: A year of awakening\u003c/a\u003e.\u003c/p\u003e"},"isFullScreenInteractive":{"boolValue":false},"hideStickySocialShareBar":{"boolValue":false},"desktopID":{"value":""},"mobileID":{"value":""},"desktopURL":{"value":""},"mobileURL":{"value":""},"desktopPaddingPercentage":{"value":""},"mobilePaddingPercentage":{"value":""},"desktopOverrideHeight":{"value":""},"mobileOverrideHeight":{"value":""},"cerosOembedURL":{"value":""},"cerosRenderMode":{"targetItem":null},"cerosBackgroundColor":{"targetItem":null},"hideByLine":{"boolValue":false},"tableOfContentsTitle":{"value":"TABLE OF CONTENTS"},"accessStatus":{"targetItem":{"key":{"value":"AllUsers"},"value":{"value":"All Users"}}},"articleType":{"targetItem":{"displayName":"Article"}},"hasSpecialReport":{"boolValue":false},"contentType":{"targetItem":{"displayName":"Article"}},"sourcePublication":{"targetItem":null},"externalPublication":{"value":""},"mobileReady":{"boolValue":true},"forClientsOnly":{"boolValue":false},"excludeFromClientLink":{"boolValue":false},"originalPublishDate":{"jsonValue":{"value":"2019-02-12T00:00:00Z"}},"footnotes":{"value":""},"contributoryPractice":{"targetItems":[{"displayName":"Retail"}]},"aboutTheAuthors":{"value":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"/our-people/anita-balchandani\"\u003eAnita Balchandani\u003c/a\u003e\u003c/strong\u003e is a partner in McKinsey\u0026rsquo;s London office, where \u003cstrong\u003eMarco Beltrami\u003c/strong\u003e is a consultant; \u003cstrong\u003eAchim Berg\u003c/strong\u003e is a senior partner in the Frankfurt office, \u003cstrong\u003eSaskia Hedrich\u003c/strong\u003e is a senior expert in the Munich office, and \u003cstrong\u003eFelix R\u0026ouml;lkens\u003c/strong\u003e is an associate partner in the Berlin office. \u003cstrong\u003eImran Amed\u003c/strong\u003e is the founder, editor-in-chief, and CEO of the Business of Fashion.\u003c/p\u003e"},"authors":{"targetItems":[{"template":{"id":"3FBABDB63A094F68B1F8E1BBE1BA124E","name":"Author"},"id":"1139EEE0E0FD40DEBAF4CC4A3195AE58","name":"Imran Amed","authorTitle":{"value":"Imran Amed"},"description":{"value":""},"thumbnailImage":{"alt":"","src":null},"profile":{"targetItems":[]}},{"template":{"id":"3FBABDB63A094F68B1F8E1BBE1BA124E","name":"Author"},"id":"70FF2CC9CC1F48D7BF57958C224698DC","name":"Anita Balchandani","authorTitle":{"value":"Anita Balchandani"},"description":{"value":""},"thumbnailImage":{"alt":"","src":null},"profile":{"targetItems":[{"standardImage":{"src":"/~/media/mckinsey/our people/anita balchandani/anita-balchandani_profile_1536x1152.jpg","alt":"Anita Balchandani"},"emailLinks":{"value":"Anita_Balchandani@mckinsey.com"},"linkedInUrl":{"value":""},"description":{"value":"Leads our apparel, fashion, and luxury work in EMEA, with deep expertise in multichannel and digital transformation"},"locations":{"targetItems":[{"name":"London","displayName":"London"}]},"firmTitle":{"value":"Senior Partner"},"thumbnailImage":{"alt":"Anita Balchandani","src":"/~/media/mckinsey/our people/anita balchandani/anita-balchandani_headshot_988x741.jpg"},"url":{"path":"/our-people/anita-balchandani"}}]}},{"template":{"id":"3FBABDB63A094F68B1F8E1BBE1BA124E","name":"Author"},"id":"3C1F9DEF00FE42CF9D4C4A926DC9E12B","name":"Marco Beltrami","authorTitle":{"value":"Marco Beltrami"},"description":{"value":""},"thumbnailImage":{"alt":"","src":null},"profile":{"targetItems":[]}},{"template":{"id":"3FBABDB63A094F68B1F8E1BBE1BA124E","name":"Author"},"id":"81DBC2EA3FAB4C3AB419D1B85CEB9326","name":"Achim Berg","authorTitle":{"value":"Achim Berg"},"description":{"value":""},"thumbnailImage":{"alt":"","src":null},"profile":{"targetItems":[]}},{"template":{"id":"3FBABDB63A094F68B1F8E1BBE1BA124E","name":"Author"},"id":"12913B98C915444FA3697625D0A07D32","name":"Saskia Hedrich","authorTitle":{"value":"Saskia Hedrich"},"description":{"value":"A senior expert in McKinsey’s Apparel, Fashion and Luxury Group, Saskia works with fashion companies on strategy, sourcing optimization, merchandising transformation, and sustainability topics"},"thumbnailImage":{"alt":"Saskia Hedrich","src":"/~/media/mckinsey/our people/saskia hedrich/saskia-hedrich_profile_1536x1152.jpg"},"profile":{"targetItems":[]}},{"template":{"id":"3FBABDB63A094F68B1F8E1BBE1BA124E","name":"Author"},"id":"97A419211BA646F1A376A3E7C9A0C82E","name":"Felix Roelkens","authorTitle":{"value":"Felix Rölkens"},"description":{"value":""},"thumbnailImage":{"alt":"","src":null},"profile":{"targetItems":[]}}]},"nonPartnerAuthors":{"targetItems":[]},"interactiveToUse":{"targetItem":null},"enableArticleComponents":{"boolValue":false},"relatedArticles":{"targetItems":[{"sourcePublication":{"targetItem":null},"publicationSource":null,"externalPublication":{"value":""},"title":{"value":"\u0026lsquo;True Gen\u0026rsquo;: Generation Z and its implications for companies"},"url":{"path":"/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-for-companies"},"eyebrow":{"targetItem":{"name":"Article"}},"articleType":{"targetItem":{"name":"Article"}},"contentType":{"targetItem":{"name":"Article"}},"description":{"value":"The influence of Gen Z\u0026mdash;the first generation of true digital natives\u0026mdash;is expanding."},"standardImage":{"src":"/~/media/mckinsey/industries/consumer packaged goods/our insights/true gen generation z and its implications for companies/true-gen-generation-z-1536x1536-300.jpg","alt":"‘True Gen’: Generation Z and its implications for companies"},"heroImage":null,"thumbnailImage":null},{"sourcePublication":{"targetItem":null},"publicationSource":null,"externalPublication":{"value":""},"title":{"value":"Shattering the glass runway"},"url":{"path":"/industries/retail/our-insights/shattering-the-glass-runway"},"eyebrow":{"targetItem":{"name":"Report"}},"articleType":{"targetItem":{"name":"Report"}},"contentType":{"targetItem":{"name":"Article"}},"description":{"value":"Although many companies have committed to increasing gender diversity in the fashion industry, progress toward fixing it has been slow. 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