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Phulkari - Wikipedia

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<span>Origin</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Origin-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Features" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Features"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">3</span> <span>Features</span> </div> </a> <button aria-controls="toc-Features-sublist" class="cdx-button cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only vector-toc-toggle"> <span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-expand"></span> <span>Toggle Features subsection</span> </button> <ul id="toc-Features-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Fabrics" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Fabrics"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">3.1</span> <span>Fabrics</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Fabrics-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Patterns" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Patterns"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">3.2</span> <span>Patterns</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Patterns-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Types" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Types"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">4</span> <span>Types</span> </div> </a> <button aria-controls="toc-Types-sublist" class="cdx-button cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only vector-toc-toggle"> <span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-expand"></span> <span>Toggle Types subsection</span> </button> <ul id="toc-Types-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Bagh" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Bagh"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">4.1</span> <span>Bagh</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Bagh-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Chope_and_subhar" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Chope_and_subhar"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">4.2</span> <span>Chope and subhar</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Chope_and_subhar-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Darshan_dwar" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Darshan_dwar"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">4.3</span> <span>Darshan dwar</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Darshan_dwar-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Sainchi" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Sainchi"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">4.4</span> <span>Sainchi</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Sainchi-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Tilpatra" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Tilpatra"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">4.5</span> <span>Tilpatra</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Tilpatra-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Neelak" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Neelak"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">4.6</span> <span>Neelak</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Neelak-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Chhamaas" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Chhamaas"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">4.7</span> <span>Chhamaas</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Chhamaas-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Phulkari_of_South_and_Southwestern_Punjab_region" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Phulkari_of_South_and_Southwestern_Punjab_region"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">4.8</span> <span>Phulkari of South and Southwestern Punjab region</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Phulkari_of_South_and_Southwestern_Punjab_region-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Usage" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Usage"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">5</span> <span>Usage</span> </div> </a> <button aria-controls="toc-Usage-sublist" class="cdx-button cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only vector-toc-toggle"> <span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-expand"></span> <span>Toggle Usage subsection</span> </button> <ul id="toc-Usage-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Revival_and_exhibitions" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Revival_and_exhibitions"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">5.1</span> <span>Revival and exhibitions</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Revival_and_exhibitions-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Phulkari_chowk" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Phulkari_chowk"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">5.2</span> <span>Phulkari chowk</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Phulkari_chowk-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-See_also" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#See_also"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">6</span> <span>See also</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-See_also-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-References" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#References"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">7</span> <span>References</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-References-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-External_links" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#External_links"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">8</span> <span>External links</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-External_links-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </div> </div> </nav> </div> </div> <div class="mw-content-container"> <main id="content" class="mw-body"> <header class="mw-body-header vector-page-titlebar"> <nav aria-label="Contents" class="vector-toc-landmark"> <div id="vector-page-titlebar-toc" class="vector-dropdown vector-page-titlebar-toc vector-button-flush-left" > <input type="checkbox" id="vector-page-titlebar-toc-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-vector-page-titlebar-toc" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox " aria-label="Toggle the table of contents" > <label id="vector-page-titlebar-toc-label" for="vector-page-titlebar-toc-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only " aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-listBullet mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-listBullet"></span> <span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">Toggle the table of contents</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div id="vector-page-titlebar-toc-unpinned-container" class="vector-unpinned-container"> </div> </div> </div> </nav> <h1 id="firstHeading" class="firstHeading mw-first-heading"><span class="mw-page-title-main">Phulkari</span></h1> <div id="p-lang-btn" class="vector-dropdown mw-portlet mw-portlet-lang" > <input type="checkbox" id="p-lang-btn-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-p-lang-btn" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox 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href="https://hi.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E0%A4%AB%E0%A5%81%E0%A4%B2%E0%A4%95%E0%A4%BE%E0%A4%B0%E0%A5%80" title="फुलकारी – Hindi" lang="hi" hreflang="hi" data-title="फुलकारी" data-language-autonym="हिन्दी" data-language-local-name="Hindi" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>हिन्दी</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-ml mw-list-item"><a href="https://ml.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E0%B4%AB%E0%B5%81%E0%B5%BD%E0%B4%95%E0%B4%BE%E0%B4%B0%E0%B4%BF" title="ഫുൽകാരി – Malayalam" lang="ml" hreflang="ml" data-title="ഫുൽകാരി" data-language-autonym="മലയാളം" data-language-local-name="Malayalam" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>മലയാളം</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-nl mw-list-item"><a href="https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phulkari" title="Phulkari – Dutch" lang="nl" hreflang="nl" data-title="Phulkari" data-language-autonym="Nederlands" data-language-local-name="Dutch" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Nederlands</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-or mw-list-item"><a href="https://or.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E0%AC%AB%E0%AD%81%E0%AC%B2%E0%AC%95%E0%AC%B0%E0%AC%BF" title="ଫୁଲକରି – Odia" lang="or" hreflang="or" data-title="ଫୁଲକରି" data-language-autonym="ଓଡ଼ିଆ" data-language-local-name="Odia" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>ଓଡ଼ିଆ</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-pa mw-list-item"><a href="https://pa.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E0%A8%AB%E0%A9%81%E0%A8%B2%E0%A8%95%E0%A8%BE%E0%A8%B0%E0%A9%80" title="ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀ – Punjabi" lang="pa" hreflang="pa" data-title="ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀ" data-language-autonym="ਪੰਜਾਬੀ" data-language-local-name="Punjabi" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>ਪੰਜਾਬੀ</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-pnb mw-list-item"><a href="https://pnb.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D9%BE%DA%BE%D9%84%DA%A9%D8%A7%D8%B1%DB%8C" title="پھلکاری – Western Punjabi" lang="pnb" hreflang="pnb" data-title="پھلکاری" data-language-autonym="پنجابی" data-language-local-name="Western Punjabi" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>پنجابی</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-ta mw-list-item"><a href="https://ta.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E0%AE%AA%E0%AF%82%E0%AE%B2%E0%AF%8D%E0%AE%95%E0%AE%BE%E0%AE%B0%E0%AE%BF_(%E0%AE%AA%E0%AF%82%E0%AE%AA%E0%AF%8D%E0%AE%AA%E0%AE%BF%E0%AE%A9%E0%AF%8D%E0%AE%A9%E0%AE%B2%E0%AF%8D)" title="பூல்காரி (பூப்பின்னல்) – Tamil" lang="ta" hreflang="ta" data-title="பூல்காரி (பூப்பின்னல்)" data-language-autonym="தமிழ்" data-language-local-name="Tamil" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>தமிழ்</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-te mw-list-item"><a href="https://te.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E0%B0%AB%E0%B1%81%E0%B0%B2%E0%B1%8D%E0%B0%95%E0%B0%BE%E0%B0%B0%E0%B1%80" title="ఫుల్కారీ – Telugu" lang="te" hreflang="te" data-title="ఫుల్కారీ" data-language-autonym="తెలుగు" data-language-local-name="Telugu" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>తెలుగు</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-ur mw-list-item"><a href="https://ur.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D9%BE%DA%BE%D9%84%DA%A9%D8%A7%D8%B1%DB%8C" title="پھلکاری – Urdu" lang="ur" hreflang="ur" data-title="پھلکاری" data-language-autonym="اردو" data-language-local-name="Urdu" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>اردو</span></a></li> </ul> <div class="after-portlet after-portlet-lang"><span class="wb-langlinks-edit wb-langlinks-link"><a href="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Special:EntityPage/Q7188325#sitelinks-wikipedia" title="Edit interlanguage links" class="wbc-editpage">Edit links</a></span></div> </div> </div> </div> </header> <div class="vector-page-toolbar"> <div class="vector-page-toolbar-container"> <div id="left-navigation"> <nav aria-label="Namespaces"> <div id="p-associated-pages" class="vector-menu vector-menu-tabs mw-portlet mw-portlet-associated-pages" > <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="ca-nstab-main" class="selected vector-tab-noicon mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Phulkari" title="View the 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</div> </div> <div id="bodyContent" class="vector-body" aria-labelledby="firstHeading" data-mw-ve-target-container> <div class="vector-body-before-content"> <div class="mw-indicators"> </div> <div id="siteSub" class="noprint">From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia</div> </div> <div id="contentSub"><div id="mw-content-subtitle"></div></div> <div id="mw-content-text" class="mw-body-content"><div class="mw-content-ltr mw-parser-output" lang="en" dir="ltr"><div class="shortdescription nomobile noexcerpt noprint searchaux" style="display:none">Folk embroidery of the Punjab</div> <p class="mw-empty-elt"> </p> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Contemporary_Phulkari_design.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/71/Contemporary_Phulkari_design.jpg/220px-Contemporary_Phulkari_design.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="165" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/71/Contemporary_Phulkari_design.jpg/330px-Contemporary_Phulkari_design.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/71/Contemporary_Phulkari_design.jpg/440px-Contemporary_Phulkari_design.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3264" data-file-height="2448" /></a><figcaption>Contemporary Phulkari design and embroidery at retail dealer's store in <a href="/wiki/Patiala" title="Patiala">Patiala, Punjab</a> (India), 2015</figcaption></figure><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1129693374">.mw-parser-output .hlist dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul{margin:0;padding:0}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt,.mw-parser-output .hlist li{margin:0;display:inline}.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline ul,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl 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.sidebar-list-title-c{padding:0 0.4em;text-align:center;margin:0 3.3em}@media(max-width:640px){body.mediawiki .mw-parser-output .sidebar{width:100%!important;clear:both;float:none!important;margin-left:0!important;margin-right:0!important}}body.skin--responsive .mw-parser-output .sidebar a>img{max-width:none!important}@media screen{html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .sidebar:not(.notheme) .sidebar-list-title,html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .sidebar:not(.notheme) .sidebar-title-with-pretitle{background:transparent!important}html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .sidebar:not(.notheme) .sidebar-title-with-pretitle a{color:var(--color-progressive)!important}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .sidebar:not(.notheme) .sidebar-list-title,html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .sidebar:not(.notheme) .sidebar-title-with-pretitle{background:transparent!important}html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .sidebar:not(.notheme) .sidebar-title-with-pretitle a{color:var(--color-progressive)!important}}@media print{body.ns-0 .mw-parser-output .sidebar{display:none!important}}</style><table class="sidebar sidebar-collapse nomobile nowraplinks hlist"><tbody><tr><td class="sidebar-pretitle">Part of <a href="/wiki/Category:Punjabi_culture" title="Category:Punjabi culture">a series</a> on</td></tr><tr><th class="sidebar-title-with-pretitle" style="font-size:145%;font-weight:heavy;"><a href="/wiki/Punjabis" title="Punjabis">Punjabis</a></th></tr><tr><td class="sidebar-image" style="padding-bottom:1.0em;"><figure class="mw-halign-center" typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/Punjab_region" title="Punjab region"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e5/Punjabi_example.svg/85px-Punjabi_example.svg.png" decoding="async" width="85" height="95" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e5/Punjabi_example.svg/128px-Punjabi_example.svg.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e5/Punjabi_example.svg/170px-Punjabi_example.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="600" data-file-height="670" /></a><figcaption></figcaption></figure></td></tr><tr><td class="sidebar-content" style="padding:0.2em 0 0.6em;font-size:95%;"> <div class="sidebar-list mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"><div class="sidebar-list-title" style="border-top:1px solid #aaa;;color: var(--color-base)"><a href="/wiki/History_of_Punjab" title="History of Punjab">History</a></div><div class="sidebar-list-content mw-collapsible-content"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_folklore" title="Punjabi folklore">Folklore</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_language" title="Punjabi language">Language</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_dialects" class="mw-redirect" title="Punjabi dialects">Dialects</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjab" title="Punjab">Punjab</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabis" title="Punjabis">Punjabis</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_nationalism" title="Punjabi nationalism">Nationalism</a></li></ul></div></div></td> </tr><tr><td class="sidebar-content" style="padding:0.2em 0 0.6em;font-size:95%;"> <div class="sidebar-list mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"><div class="sidebar-list-title" style="border-top:1px solid #aaa;;color: var(--color-base)"><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_diaspora" title="Punjabi diaspora">Diaspora</a></div><div class="sidebar-list-content mw-collapsible-content"><i>Asia</i> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Punjabis_in_Afghanistan" title="Punjabis in Afghanistan">Afghanistan</a></li></ul> <p><i>Europe</i> </p> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/British_Punjabis" title="British Punjabis">United Kingdom</a></li></ul> <p><i>North America</i> </p> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_Americans" title="Punjabi Americans">United States</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_Mexican_Americans" title="Punjabi Mexican Americans">Mexican American</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_Canadians" title="Punjabi Canadians">Canada</a></li></ul> <p><i>Oceania</i> </p> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_Australians" title="Punjabi Australians">Australia</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_New_Zealanders" title="Punjabi New Zealanders">New Zealand</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_Malaysians" title="Punjabi Malaysians">Malaysia</a></li></ul></div></div></td> </tr><tr><td class="sidebar-content" style="padding:0.2em 0 0.6em;font-size:95%;"> <div class="sidebar-list mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"><div class="sidebar-list-title" style="border-top:1px solid #aaa;;color: var(--color-base)"><a href="/wiki/Culture_of_Punjab" class="mw-redirect" title="Culture of Punjab">Culture</a></div><div class="sidebar-list-content mw-collapsible-content"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_clothing" title="Punjabi clothing">Clothing</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_cuisine" title="Punjabi cuisine">Cuisine</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Folk_dances_of_Punjab" title="Folk dances of Punjab">Dance</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_festivals" title="Punjabi festivals">Festivals</a> (<a href="/wiki/List_of_fairs_and_festivals_in_Punjab,_India" title="List of fairs and festivals in Punjab, India">India</a> • <a href="/wiki/Punjabi_festivals_(Pakistan)" title="Punjabi festivals (Pakistan)">Pakistan</a>)</li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_literature" title="Punjabi literature">Literature</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/List_of_Punjabi_media" title="List of Punjabi media">Media</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Music_of_Punjab" title="Music of Punjab">Music</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Religion_in_the_Punjab" title="Religion in the Punjab">Religion</a> (<a href="/wiki/Folk_practices_in_Punjab" title="Folk practices in Punjab">Folk religion</a>)</li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_Kabaddi" class="mw-redirect" title="Punjabi Kabaddi">Sport</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/List_of_Punjabi-language_television_channels" title="List of Punjabi-language television channels">Television</a></li></ul></div></div></td> </tr><tr><td class="sidebar-content" style="padding:0.2em 0 0.6em;font-size:95%;"> <div class="sidebar-list mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"><div class="sidebar-list-title" style="border-top:1px solid #aaa;;color: var(--color-base)">Regions</div><div class="sidebar-list-content mw-collapsible-content"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Majha" title="Majha">Majha</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Malwa_(Punjab)" title="Malwa (Punjab)">Malwa</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Doaba" title="Doaba">Doaba</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Puadh" title="Puadh">Puadh</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bagar_tract" class="mw-redirect" title="Bagar tract">Bagar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pothohar_Plateau" title="Pothohar Plateau">Pothwar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Derajat" title="Derajat">Derajat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bhatiore" title="Bhatiore">Bhatiore</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bhattiana" title="Bhattiana">Bhattiana</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chhachh" title="Chhachh">Chhachh</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kachhi_(Punjab)" title="Kachhi (Punjab)">Kachhi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Doab#The_Punjab_Doabs" title="Doab">Doabs</a> (<a href="/wiki/Sindh_Sagar_Doab" title="Sindh Sagar Doab">Sindh Sagar</a> • <a href="/wiki/Chaj_Doab" title="Chaj Doab">Chaj</a> • <a href="/wiki/Rachna_Doab" title="Rachna Doab">Rachna</a> • <a href="/wiki/Bari_Doab" class="mw-redirect" title="Bari Doab">Bari</a> • <a href="/wiki/Bist_Doab" class="mw-redirect" title="Bist Doab">Bist</a>)</li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bar_Region" title="Bar Region">Bars</a> (<a href="/wiki/Sandal_Bar" title="Sandal Bar">Sandal</a> • <a href="/wiki/Kirana_Bar" title="Kirana Bar">Kirana</a> • <a href="/wiki/Neeli_Bar" title="Neeli Bar">Neeli</a> • <a href="/wiki/Ganji_Bar" title="Ganji Bar">Ganji</a> • <a href="/wiki/Gondal_Bar" class="mw-redirect" title="Gondal Bar">Gondal</a> • <a href="/wiki/Jungle_Bar" class="mw-redirect" title="Jungle Bar">Jungle</a>)</li></ul></div></div></td> </tr><tr><td class="sidebar-below" style="border-top:1px solid #0047AB;border-bottom:1px solid #0047AB;font-size:95%;"> <span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/Portal:Punjab" title="Portal:Punjab"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/Punjab_map_%28topographic%29_with_cities.png/50px-Punjab_map_%28topographic%29_with_cities.png" decoding="async" width="50" height="50" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/Punjab_map_%28topographic%29_with_cities.png/75px-Punjab_map_%28topographic%29_with_cities.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/Punjab_map_%28topographic%29_with_cities.png/100px-Punjab_map_%28topographic%29_with_cities.png 2x" data-file-width="526" data-file-height="527" /></a></span><br /><a href="/wiki/Portal:Punjab" title="Portal:Punjab">Punjab portal</a></td></tr><tr><td class="sidebar-navbar"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1239400231">.mw-parser-output .navbar{display:inline;font-size:88%;font-weight:normal}.mw-parser-output .navbar-collapse{float:left;text-align:left}.mw-parser-output .navbar-boxtext{word-spacing:0}.mw-parser-output .navbar ul{display:inline-block;white-space:nowrap;line-height:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-brackets::before{margin-right:-0.125em;content:"[ "}.mw-parser-output .navbar-brackets::after{margin-left:-0.125em;content:" ]"}.mw-parser-output .navbar li{word-spacing:-0.125em}.mw-parser-output .navbar a>span,.mw-parser-output .navbar a>abbr{text-decoration:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-mini abbr{font-variant:small-caps;border-bottom:none;text-decoration:none;cursor:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-ct-full{font-size:114%;margin:0 7em}.mw-parser-output .navbar-ct-mini{font-size:114%;margin:0 4em}html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .navbar li a abbr{color:var(--color-base)!important}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .navbar li a abbr{color:var(--color-base)!important}}@media print{.mw-parser-output .navbar{display:none!important}}</style><div class="navbar plainlinks hlist navbar-mini"><ul><li class="nv-view"><a href="/wiki/Template:Punjabis" title="Template:Punjabis"><abbr title="View this template">v</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-talk"><a href="/wiki/Template_talk:Punjabis" title="Template talk:Punjabis"><abbr title="Discuss this template">t</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-edit"><a href="/wiki/Special:EditPage/Template:Punjabis" title="Special:EditPage/Template:Punjabis"><abbr title="Edit this template">e</abbr></a></li></ul></div></td></tr></tbody></table> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:PDL_Phulkari.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/60/PDL_Phulkari.jpg/220px-PDL_Phulkari.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="121" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/60/PDL_Phulkari.jpg/330px-PDL_Phulkari.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/60/PDL_Phulkari.jpg/440px-PDL_Phulkari.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2000" data-file-height="1103" /></a><figcaption>Handwoven Phulkari design from the <a href="/wiki/Punjab" title="Punjab">Punjab</a> region, Digitized by <a href="/wiki/Panjab_Digital_Library" title="Panjab Digital Library">Panjab Digital Library</a>.</figcaption></figure> <p><b>Phulkari</b> (<a href="/wiki/Gurmukhi" title="Gurmukhi">Gurmukhi</a>: <span lang="pa">ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀ</span>; <a href="/wiki/Shahmukhi" title="Shahmukhi">Shahmukhi</a>: <span lang="pa"><span class="Nastaliq" dir="rtl" title="Nastaliq" style="font-family: &#39;Jameel Noori Nastaleeq&#39;, &#39;Urdu Typesetting&#39;, &#39;Noto Nastaliq Urdu&#39;, &#39;Noto Nastaliq Urdu Draft&#39;, &#39;Hussaini Nastaleeq&#39;, &#39;AlQalam Taj Nastaleeq&#39;, IranNastaliq, &#39;Awami Nastaliq&#39;, &#39;Awami Nastaliq Beta3&#39;, &#39;Awami Nastaliq Beta2&#39;, &#39;Awami Nastaliq Beta1&#39;, &#39;Nafees Nastaleeq&#39;, &#39;Nafees Nastaleeq v1.01&#39;, &#39;Pak Nastaleeq&#39;, &#39;PDMS_Jauhar&#39;, &#39;Alvi Lahori Nastaleeq&#39;; font-size: 110%; font-style: normal;">پھلکاری</span></span>) refers to the folk embroidery of the <a href="/wiki/Punjab" title="Punjab">Punjab region</a> and <b>Gulkari</b> of <a href="/wiki/Sindh" title="Sindh">Sindh</a> in <a href="/wiki/South_Asia" title="South Asia">South Asia</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-1"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-2"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-3"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>3<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Although <i>phulkari</i> means 'floral work', the designs include not only flowers but also cover <a href="/wiki/Motif_(textile_arts)" title="Motif (textile arts)">motifs</a> and geometrical shapes.<sup id="cite_ref-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-4"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> The main characteristics of phulkari embroidery are use of <a href="/wiki/Darning" title="Darning">darn stitch</a> on the wrong side of coarse <a href="/wiki/Cotton" title="Cotton">cotton</a> cloth with coloured silken thread. </p><p>The traditional varieties of phulkaris are large items of cloth and include chope, tilpatr, neelak, and bagh.<sup id="cite_ref-tri_5-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-tri-5"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Some make the distinction that phulkari only refers to sparingly-embroidered flowers, where the base cloth is still visible, while an intricately embroidered flower pattern that covers the entire garment is known as a <b>bagh</b> ('large garden').<sup id="cite_ref-:0_6-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-6"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated1_7-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated1-7"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>7<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-tri_5-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-tri-5"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <figure class="mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Intricate_Phulkari_embroidery_for_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US,_2019.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bf/Intricate_Phulkari_embroidery_for_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US%2C_2019.jpg/250px-Intricate_Phulkari_embroidery_for_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US%2C_2019.jpg" decoding="async" width="250" height="143" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bf/Intricate_Phulkari_embroidery_for_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US%2C_2019.jpg/375px-Intricate_Phulkari_embroidery_for_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US%2C_2019.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bf/Intricate_Phulkari_embroidery_for_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US%2C_2019.jpg/500px-Intricate_Phulkari_embroidery_for_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US%2C_2019.jpg 2x" data-file-width="810" data-file-height="464" /></a><figcaption>Phulkari Dupatta, created for Kanya Aagman (Arrival of the Bride) at a traditional Punjabi wedding in the US.</figcaption></figure> <p>The craft of phulkari has undergone changes over the centuries. According to Pal (1960), the traditional method of embroidering a phulkari and its widespread use in <a href="/wiki/Punjab,_India" title="Punjab, India">Punjab, India</a>, declined by the 1950s.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Traditionally, women would embroider phulkaris without using <a href="/wiki/Stencil" title="Stencil">stencils</a>. Pal (1960) states that women would clean their courtyards and invite friends and family to ceremonially begin the process of embroidering a phulkari. Folk songs would be sung on this occasion.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> "Ih Phulkari Meri Maan Ne Kadhi / Is Noo Ghut Ghut Japhiyan Paawan" ('This Phulkari was embroidered by my mother, I embrace it warmly'). Folk songs like these are indicative of the emotional attachment the girl had to the Phulkari embroidered by her mother or grandmother, or aunts.<sup id="cite_ref-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari_9-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari-9"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Phulkari and bagh embroidery has influenced the embroidery of <a href="/wiki/Gujarat" title="Gujarat">Gujarat</a> known as <i><b>heer bharat</b></i> in its use of geometrical motifs and stitchery.<sup id="cite_ref-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-10"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>10<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <meta property="mw:PageProp/toc" /> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Etymology">Etymology</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=1" title="Edit section: Etymology"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p><i>Phulkari</i> is made of two words: <i>phul</i> means 'flower' and <i>akari</i> means 'shape'. Phulkari meant the shape/direction of flowers which symbolized life. In Punjab, it was popularly believed that the birth of girl child in the family was auspicious. The mother and grandmothers would start embroidering Phulkari dupattas upon her birth because they believed that she would be the creator for future generations. Originally Phulkari was done with real flowers. Silk and Mulmul (soft cotton muslin) fabrics were used because of their purity and longevity. It was believed that the virtue and character of a woman gave shape to the Phulkari.<sup class="noprint Inline-Template Template-Fact" style="white-space:nowrap;">&#91;<i><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed" title="Wikipedia:Citation needed"><span title="This claim needs references to reliable sources. (March 2023)">citation needed</span></a></i>&#93;</sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Origin">Origin</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=2" title="Edit section: Origin"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Silk_threads_used_for_embroidering_Phulkari.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/29/Silk_threads_used_for_embroidering_Phulkari.jpg/200px-Silk_threads_used_for_embroidering_Phulkari.jpg" decoding="async" width="200" height="150" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/29/Silk_threads_used_for_embroidering_Phulkari.jpg/300px-Silk_threads_used_for_embroidering_Phulkari.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/29/Silk_threads_used_for_embroidering_Phulkari.jpg/400px-Silk_threads_used_for_embroidering_Phulkari.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3264" data-file-height="2448" /></a><figcaption>Silk embroidery floss (Patt), Rajpura Punjab (India), 2015</figcaption></figure> <p>There are different theories about the origin of phulkari. One such belief is that this embroidery was prevalent in different parts of the country as far back as the 7th century CE but survived only in Punjab. Motifs similar to the ones found in Phulkari are also found in <i><a href="/wiki/Kasidakari" title="Kasidakari">Kashida</a></i> of Bihar and some of the embroideries of Rajasthan. Another thought is that this style of embroidery came from Iran where it was called <i>Gulkari</i>, also meaning floral work.<sup id="cite_ref-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-11"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>11<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-tribuneindia.com_12-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-tribuneindia.com-12"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>12<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> However, Pal (1960) notes that the styles of Phulkari are distinct to Gulkari work.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>There is reference to phulkari in ancient texts, folk legends, and literature of Punjab. In <i><a href="/wiki/Harshacharita" title="Harshacharita">Harishcharitra</a></i>, the biography of the Emperor <a href="/wiki/Harshavardhana" class="mw-redirect" title="Harshavardhana">Harshavardhana</a> (590-647 CE), the last ruler of great ancient Indian <a href="/wiki/Vardhana" class="mw-redirect" title="Vardhana">Vardhana</a> empire, the seventh-century chronicler Bana wrote, "Some people were embroidering flowers and leaves on the cloth from the reverse side," which is a technical description of Phulkari embroidery.<sup id="cite_ref-The_Fading_Art_of_Phulkari_13-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-The_Fading_Art_of_Phulkari-13"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>13<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>However, the earliest reference to the word <i>phulkari</i> is in Punjabi literature in the 18th century <a href="/wiki/Waris_Shah" title="Waris Shah">Waris Shah</a>'s version of <i><a href="/wiki/Heer_Ranjha" title="Heer Ranjha">Heer Ranjha</a></i>, a legendary Punjabi tragic romance, which describes the wedding trousseau of the female protagonist Heer and lists various clothing items with phulkari embroidery. The first extensive English publication on phulkari was by <a href="/wiki/Flora_Annie_Steel" title="Flora Annie Steel">Flora Annie Steel</a> in 1880 where she describes the various styles and exhibited the varieties in picture form.<sup id="cite_ref-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-14"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>14<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> In its present form, phulkari embroidery has been popular since the 15th century.<sup id="cite_ref-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-15"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>15<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Pal (1960) believes that no matter its origin, phulkari work is distinctive and uniquely Punjabi.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Features">Features</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=3" title="Edit section: Features"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Fabrics">Fabrics</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=4" title="Edit section: Fabrics"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Photograph_of_a_Patiala_Punjabi_woman_in_Phulkari,_ca.1900.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/04/Photograph_of_a_Patiala_Punjabi_woman_in_Phulkari%2C_ca.1900.jpg/220px-Photograph_of_a_Patiala_Punjabi_woman_in_Phulkari%2C_ca.1900.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="346" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/04/Photograph_of_a_Patiala_Punjabi_woman_in_Phulkari%2C_ca.1900.jpg/330px-Photograph_of_a_Patiala_Punjabi_woman_in_Phulkari%2C_ca.1900.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/04/Photograph_of_a_Patiala_Punjabi_woman_in_Phulkari%2C_ca.1900.jpg/440px-Photograph_of_a_Patiala_Punjabi_woman_in_Phulkari%2C_ca.1900.jpg 2x" data-file-width="634" data-file-height="998" /></a><figcaption>Photograph of a Patiala Punjabi woman in Phulkari, ca.1900</figcaption></figure> <p>Various coarse structured fabrics such as <a href="/wiki/Khaddar" class="mw-redirect" title="Khaddar">khaddar</a>, <a href="/wiki/Dosuti" title="Dosuti">dasuti</a>, and khaddar casement were used for embroidery work, including phulkari.<sup id="cite_ref-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-16"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>16<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> According to the employment of phulkari types "chaddar," "bhagh," or "chope," these khaddar characteristics vary in thickness, weight, and loose or firmly woven structures. The first was a loosely woven khaddar with coarse yarns, which stood in contrast to "Halwan" (a lightweight and finely woven Khaddar), and the third was "Chaunsa Khaddar," which was woven with finer yarns and was chosen for "Bhag".<sup id="cite_ref-17" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-17"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>17<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Phulkari was essentially a product of domestic work done by the women of the household. The fabric on which Phulkari embroidery was done was hand spun <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">khaddar</i></span> (a handloomed plain-weave cotton fabric). Cotton was grown throughout Punjab plains and after a series of simple processes it was spun into yarn by the women on the <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Charkha_(spinning_wheel)" class="mw-redirect" title="Charkha (spinning wheel)">charkha</a></i></span> (spinning wheel). After making the yarn it was dyed by the <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">lalari</i></span> (dyer) and woven by the <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">jullaha</i></span> (weaver). </p><p> Traditionally, use of coarse khaddar fabric made it easy to count the yarn. The base khaddar cloth used in <a href="/wiki/Punjab_(Pakistan)" class="mw-redirect" title="Punjab (Pakistan)">Western Punjab</a> was finer than what was used in <a href="/wiki/Doaba" title="Doaba">Central Punjab</a>. The fabric was woven in widths, which were narrow, as the width of the loom was such. Thus, the fabric had to be stitched lengthwise to make the desired width, which was later embroidered. This practice of stitching two pieces was common among textiles of Punjab in the early 20th century. In <a href="/wiki/West_Punjab" title="West Punjab">West Punjab</a> (now in Pakistan), two or three pieces of cloth were first folded and joined, leading to distorted designs. In <a href="/wiki/East_Punjab" title="East Punjab">East Punjab</a> (now Punjab, Haryana, and part of Himachal Pradesh), they were joined first and then embroidered.</p><figure typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Phulkari_from_Punjab,_India,_20th_century,_khadi,_silk,_plain_weave,_embroidery,_Honolulu_Museum_of_Art.JPG" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/Phulkari_from_Punjab%2C_India%2C_20th_century%2C_khadi%2C_silk%2C_plain_weave%2C_embroidery%2C_Honolulu_Museum_of_Art.JPG/140px-Phulkari_from_Punjab%2C_India%2C_20th_century%2C_khadi%2C_silk%2C_plain_weave%2C_embroidery%2C_Honolulu_Museum_of_Art.JPG" decoding="async" width="140" height="271" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/Phulkari_from_Punjab%2C_India%2C_20th_century%2C_khadi%2C_silk%2C_plain_weave%2C_embroidery%2C_Honolulu_Museum_of_Art.JPG/210px-Phulkari_from_Punjab%2C_India%2C_20th_century%2C_khadi%2C_silk%2C_plain_weave%2C_embroidery%2C_Honolulu_Museum_of_Art.JPG 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/Phulkari_from_Punjab%2C_India%2C_20th_century%2C_khadi%2C_silk%2C_plain_weave%2C_embroidery%2C_Honolulu_Museum_of_Art.JPG/280px-Phulkari_from_Punjab%2C_India%2C_20th_century%2C_khadi%2C_silk%2C_plain_weave%2C_embroidery%2C_Honolulu_Museum_of_Art.JPG 2x" data-file-width="1788" data-file-height="3456" /></a><figcaption>20th-century Phulkari from Punjab (India), Honolulu Museum of Art</figcaption></figure> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Patterns">Patterns</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=5" title="Edit section: Patterns"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Women_embroidering_Phulkari_in_Rajpura,_Punjab_(India),_2015.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2e/Women_embroidering_Phulkari_in_Rajpura%2C_Punjab_%28India%29%2C_2015.jpg/200px-Women_embroidering_Phulkari_in_Rajpura%2C_Punjab_%28India%29%2C_2015.jpg" decoding="async" width="200" height="95" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2e/Women_embroidering_Phulkari_in_Rajpura%2C_Punjab_%28India%29%2C_2015.jpg/300px-Women_embroidering_Phulkari_in_Rajpura%2C_Punjab_%28India%29%2C_2015.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2e/Women_embroidering_Phulkari_in_Rajpura%2C_Punjab_%28India%29%2C_2015.jpg/400px-Women_embroidering_Phulkari_in_Rajpura%2C_Punjab_%28India%29%2C_2015.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2148" data-file-height="1017" /></a><figcaption>Women artisans embroidering with Patt in Rajpura, Punjab (India), 2015</figcaption></figure> <p>The hallmark of Phulkari is, making innumerable patterns by using long and short darn stitches. There were no pattern books and embroidery was worked entirely from the reverse of the fabric. The designs were not traced. Techniques and patterns were not documented but transmitted from word of mouth and each regional group was identified with the style of embroidery or design<sup id="cite_ref-tribuneindia.com_12-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-tribuneindia.com-12"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>12<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> The <a href="/wiki/Embroidery" title="Embroidery">embroidery</a> is done with floss silk thread. Soft untwisted silk floss called <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">patt</i></span>, was used for embroidery. The thread came from <a href="/wiki/Kashmir" title="Kashmir">Kashmir</a>, <a href="/wiki/Afghanistan" title="Afghanistan">Afghanistan</a>, and Bengal and was dyed in the big cities by the <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">lalaris</i></span>. The best quality <a href="/wiki/Silk" title="Silk">silk</a> came from <a href="/wiki/China" title="China">China</a>. The village ladies obtained the thread from hawkers or peddlers who went from village to village selling daily needs items.<sup id="cite_ref-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari_9-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari-9"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>The most favoured colour was red and its shades, because red is considered auspicious by both Hindus and Sikhs of Punjab.<sup id="cite_ref-18" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-18"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>18<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Madder brown, rust red, or indigo were the usual background colours for a base for the embroideries. White was used in Bagh by elderly ladies and widows. Black and blue were less preferred in <a href="/wiki/Punjab_(Pakistan)" class="mw-redirect" title="Punjab (Pakistan)">Western Punjab</a>, whereas white was less commonly used in <a href="/wiki/East_Punjab" title="East Punjab">East Punjab</a>. <a href="/wiki/Geometrical" class="mw-redirect" title="Geometrical">Geometrical</a> patterns are usually embroidered on the Phulkaris. Phulkari depicted scenes from everyday life in the villages. Animals and birds represented success, beauty, pride, and goodwill and different fruits symbolized wealth, prosperity, and fertility.<sup id="cite_ref-The_Fading_Art_of_Phulkari_13-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-The_Fading_Art_of_Phulkari-13"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>13<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Wheat" title="Wheat">Wheat</a> and <a href="/wiki/Barley" title="Barley">barley</a> stalks with ears were also common <a href="/wiki/Motif_(art)" class="mw-redirect" title="Motif (art)">motifs</a>. No <a href="/wiki/Religion" title="Religion">religious</a> subjects or <a href="/wiki/Durbar_(court)" title="Durbar (court)">darbar</a> (Sikh temple hall) scenes were embroidered. The decorated end of a scarf or shawl, the <a href="https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/pallu#Noun" class="extiw" title="wikt:pallu">pallu</a>, has separate panels of exquisite Phulkari workmanship with striking designs.<sup class="noprint Inline-Template Template-Fact" style="white-space:nowrap;">&#91;<i><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed" title="Wikipedia:Citation needed"><span title="This claim needs references to reliable sources. (March 2023)">citation needed</span></a></i>&#93;</sup> </p><p>Despite the fact that this embroidery was not originally done on a commercial scale, some of it did find a market abroad in the 19th century. The embroideries for shawls or <i><a href="/wiki/Ghagra" class="mw-redirect" title="Ghagra">ghagras</a></i> (a long full decorated skirt) were used to make curtains for European homes. Specimens of phulkari cloth from different regions of Punjab were sent to <a href="/wiki/Colonial_and_Indian_Exhibition" title="Colonial and Indian Exhibition">Colonial and Indian Exhibition</a>, held under the British regime. By the end of the 19th century, Phulkaris and Baghs had found a market in Europe and America. There were firms in <a href="/wiki/Amritsar" title="Amritsar">Amritsar</a> where Phulkari work of any shape or size could be ordered. Some of the firms procured orders from Europe for supplying Phulkari on a commercial scale. The newer market dictated the changes in designs and color combinations.<sup id="cite_ref-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari_9-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari-9"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Some commented that the Europeanized versions of Phulkari were not Indian at all. The embroideries were in black, green, and red and the stitches of embroidery were an inch in length.<sup id="cite_ref-19" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-19"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>19<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Types">Types</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=6" title="Edit section: Types"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Pal (1960) describes the following traditional varieties of Phulkari: <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">bagh</i></span> ('<a href="/wiki/Bagh_(garden)" class="mw-redirect" title="Bagh (garden)">garden</a>'), <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">chope</i></span>, <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">subhar</i></span>, <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">sainchi</i></span>, <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">tilpatra</i></span>, <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">neelal</i></span>, <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Ghoonghat" title="Ghoonghat">ghungat</a> bagh</i></span>, and <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">chammas</i></span>. He also describes the materials used, colours, and stitching techniques. The traditional cloth would be <a href="/wiki/Khaddar" class="mw-redirect" title="Khaddar">khaddar</a> using hand-spun cotton. The cotton would be weaved professionally to create a heavy material. Lighter versions called <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">halvaan</i></span> were also used. Pal noted that <a href="/wiki/Khaddi" class="mw-redirect" title="Khaddi">khaddi</a> material was also becoming popular. The colours were red, white, golden yellow, green, and deep blue. Natural methods would be used to dye the material w such as utilising flowers. A popular method was to use the <a href="/wiki/Rubia_cordifolia" title="Rubia cordifolia">Rubia cordifolia</a> tree known as <i>Indian madder</i> and <i>Majith</i> in Punjabi. Unspun silk thread known as <i>patt</i> would be used to embroider the designs using the double stitch known in Punjabi as dasuti tropa, <a href="/wiki/Herringbone_stitch" title="Herringbone stitch">herringbone stitch</a> and <a href="/wiki/Satin_stitch" title="Satin stitch">satin stitch</a>. Long and short stitches would be employed. No stencil would be used to embroider the designs.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Women would gather to embroider phulkaris. Traditional folk songs would be sung by the group. Pal also gives one instance of a woman putting one grain of wheat to one side for every stitch she made. When the phulkari was complete, the lady donated the grains away. Sometimes, different styles can be seen on one phulkari. This is because each girl would use her own imagination to stitch a design, perhaps to remind the girl when she gets married of her friends who helped stitch the phulkari.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Thind (2005) mentions another variety: the bawan bagh where more than one bagh style is used on one cloth. Many of the varieties are part of museum exhibitions and private collections. Thind makes reference to the contributions made by <a href="/wiki/Mohinder_Singh_Randhawa" title="Mohinder Singh Randhawa">Mohinder Singh Randhawa</a> in promoting the preservation of Phulkari art. He also mentions private collections where he has seen various motifs including the Harmandir Sahib (Golden Temple) embroidered in a Phulkari.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated3_20-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated3-20"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>20<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> &#160; </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Bagh">Bagh</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=7" title="Edit section: Bagh"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Bagh (meaning '<a href="/wiki/Persian_gardens#Bāgh" title="Persian gardens">large garden</a>') is a style wherein the entire surface is embroidered. By working with <a href="/wiki/Darning" title="Darning">darning</a> stitch, numerous designs are made by use of horizontal, vertical, and diagonal stitches. </p><p>Some make the distinction that phulkari only refers to sparingly-embroidered flowers, whereas a large, intricately embroidered flower pattern is known as a bagh.<sup id="cite_ref-:0_6-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-6"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated1_7-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated1-7"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>7<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> That is to say, in other varieties of phulkari, the base cloth is still visible, whereas in a bagh, the embroidery covers the entire garment so that the base cloth is not visible.<sup id="cite_ref-tri_5-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-tri-5"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Similarly, in contemporary modern designs, simple and sparsely embroidered <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn"><a href="/wiki/Dupatta" title="Dupatta">dupattas</a></i></span> (long scarf), <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">odhinis</i></span> (oversized long scarf), and <a href="/wiki/Shawl" title="Shawl">shawls</a>, made for everyday use, are referred to as phulkaris, whereas clothing items that cover the entire body, made for special and <a href="/wiki/Ceremony" title="Ceremony">ceremonial</a> occasions such as weddings are called baghs. </p><p>There were many kinds of bagh depending on its usage, such <a href="/wiki/Ghoonghat" title="Ghoonghat">ghungat</a> bagh and vari da bagh. In many cases the designs were inspired by what the embroiderer saw around them. The kitchen provided the designs of many baghs—belan (rolling pin) bagh, mirchi (chilli) bagh, gobhi (<a href="/wiki/Cauliflower" title="Cauliflower">cauliflower</a>) bagh, <a href="/wiki/Karela" class="mw-redirect" title="Karela">karela</a> (bitter gourd) bagh, and dabbi (metal container) bagh. Others like Dilli Darwaza, Shalimar Char, and Chaurasia Baghs depicted the layout of well-known <a href="/wiki/Mughal_garden" title="Mughal garden">Mughal gardens</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-tribuneindia.com_12-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-tribuneindia.com-12"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>12<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> The scattered work on the fabric is called <i>adha bagh</i> (half garden). The work done with white or yellow silk floss on cotton <i>khaddar</i> that starts from the center of the fabric and spreads to the whole fabric is called "Chashm-e-Bulbul". </p><p>Historically, the exquisite embroidery for baghs are known to have been made in the districts of <a href="/wiki/Hazara_District" title="Hazara District">Hazara</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Peshawar" title="Peshawar">Peshawar</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Sialkot" title="Sialkot">Sialkot</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Jhelum" title="Jhelum">Jhelum</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Rawalpindi" title="Rawalpindi">Rawalpindi</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Multan" title="Multan">Multan</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Amritsar" title="Amritsar">Amritsar</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Jalandhar" title="Jalandhar">Jalandhar</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Sialkot" title="Sialkot">Sialkot</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Ludhiana" title="Ludhiana">Ludhiana</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Gujranwala" title="Gujranwala">Gujranwala</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Kasur" title="Kasur">Kasur</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Gujrat,_Pakistan" title="Gujrat, Pakistan">Gujrat</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Chiniot" title="Chiniot">Chiniot</a><sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated2_21-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated2-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> and <a href="/wiki/Chakwal" title="Chakwal">Chakwal</a> of the <a href="/wiki/Punjab_region" class="mw-redirect" title="Punjab region">Punjab region</a>. </p><p><b>Ghunghat bagh</b> </p><p> Originating in <a href="/wiki/Rawalpindi" title="Rawalpindi">Rawalpindi</a>, the <a href="/wiki/Ghoonghat" title="Ghoonghat">ghunghat</a> bagh is heavily embroidered around the centre on the edge to be worn over the head. The embroidered centre is then pulled over the face so as to form an embroidered veil.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup></p><figure class="mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Antique_Museum_Quality_Chope_Phulkari_courtesy_the_Wovensouls_collection,_Singapore.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/16/Antique_Museum_Quality_Chope_Phulkari_courtesy_the_Wovensouls_collection%2C_Singapore.jpg/140px-Antique_Museum_Quality_Chope_Phulkari_courtesy_the_Wovensouls_collection%2C_Singapore.jpg" decoding="async" width="140" height="186" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/16/Antique_Museum_Quality_Chope_Phulkari_courtesy_the_Wovensouls_collection%2C_Singapore.jpg/210px-Antique_Museum_Quality_Chope_Phulkari_courtesy_the_Wovensouls_collection%2C_Singapore.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/16/Antique_Museum_Quality_Chope_Phulkari_courtesy_the_Wovensouls_collection%2C_Singapore.jpg/280px-Antique_Museum_Quality_Chope_Phulkari_courtesy_the_Wovensouls_collection%2C_Singapore.jpg 2x" data-file-width="734" data-file-height="976" /></a><figcaption>Antique Chope created using Holbein stitch that results in the same visual on the front and the back of the textile. Courtesy: The Wovensouls collection</figcaption></figure> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Chope_and_subhar">Chope and subhar</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=8" title="Edit section: Chope and subhar"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The two styles of <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">chope</i></span> and <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">subhar</i></span> are worn by brides. The chope is embroidered on both sides of the cloth. </p><p><i>Chope</i> traditionally is embroidered on red with yellow. Two fabric panels are joined that have similar patterns embroidered on both ends. The only motifs embroidered on both selvage are a series of triangles with the base towards the selvage and pointing inwards. The design is worked with small squares in a step-ladder fashion.<sup id="cite_ref-22" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-22"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>22<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Only the borders and the four edges of the cloth are embroidered in fine embroidery.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> The <span title="Punjabi-language romanization"><i lang="pa-Latn">subhar</i></span> has a central motif and four motifs on the corners.<sup id="cite_ref-23" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-23"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>23<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Darshan_dwar">Darshan dwar</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=9" title="Edit section: Darshan dwar"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Darshan dwar is a type of Phulkari which was made as an offering or bhet (presentation). It has panelled architectural design. The pillars and the top of the gate are filled with latticed geometrical patterns. Sometimes human beings are also shown standing at the gate.<sup id="cite_ref-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari_9-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari-9"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Sainchi">Sainchi</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=10" title="Edit section: Sainchi"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Hand_embroidered_Phulkari_from_Punjab,_2015.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/89/Hand_embroidered_Phulkari_from_Punjab%2C_2015.jpg/220px-Hand_embroidered_Phulkari_from_Punjab%2C_2015.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="164" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/89/Hand_embroidered_Phulkari_from_Punjab%2C_2015.jpg/330px-Hand_embroidered_Phulkari_from_Punjab%2C_2015.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/89/Hand_embroidered_Phulkari_from_Punjab%2C_2015.jpg/440px-Hand_embroidered_Phulkari_from_Punjab%2C_2015.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2592" data-file-height="1936" /></a><figcaption>Close-up of a rare contemporary chope made in <a href="/wiki/Rajpura" title="Rajpura">Rajpura</a>, Punjab (India) in 2015</figcaption></figure> <p>This is the only style where the outlines of the figures are drawn using black ink. It is then filled by embroidering with darn stitch. In other styles, there are no patterns drawn and the work was done only by counting the threads from the back. Sainchi was popular in Bathinda and Faridkot districts.<sup id="cite_ref-24" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-24"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>24<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Sainchi phulkari was also popular in and around <a href="/wiki/Ferozepur" class="mw-redirect" title="Ferozepur">Ferozepur</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Sainchi embroidery draws inspiration from village life and depict various scenes of everyday village life such as a man ploughing, lying on a charpai (jute cot), playing chaupar (a cross and circle board game), smoking hookah, or guests drinking sharbat (sweet cordial). Common themes also include women performing chores like churning milk, grinding wheat flour on the chakki (hand mill), and working on the charkha (spinning wheel). Women also embroidered scenes which they found interesting, such as a British official coming to a village or women carrying an umbrella and walking along with memsahib (the wife of a British official). Birds, trains, circuses as well as scenes from popular Punjabi legends like Sohni Mahiwal and Sassi-Punnun were often depicted<sup id="cite_ref-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari_9-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari-9"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> The style also incorporates jewellery designs of bracelets, earrings, rings and necklaces. Pal (1960) believes that such designs did no form part of the traditional method of embroidering Phulkaris but expressed a woman's wish to have such items of jewellery.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated1_7-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated1-7"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>7<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Tilpatra">Tilpatra</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=11" title="Edit section: Tilpatra"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The term <i>tilpatra</i> (<a href="/wiki/Till_seeds" class="mw-redirect" title="Till seeds"><i>til</i></a> + <a href="/wiki/P%C4%81tra" class="mw-redirect" title="Pātra"><i>patra</i></a>) means 'the spreading of seeds'.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> The tilpatra has decorative embroidery which is spread out as if spreading sesame seeds.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated1_7-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated1-7"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>7<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Neelak">Neelak</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=12" title="Edit section: Neelak"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Neelak phulkari is made of a black or red background with yellow or bright red embroidery. The color of the phulkari is mixed with metals.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Chhamaas">Chhamaas</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=13" title="Edit section: Chhamaas"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The Chhaamas phulkari hails from <a href="/wiki/Rohtak" title="Rohtak">Rohtak</a>, <a href="/wiki/Gurgaon" title="Gurgaon">Gurgaon</a>, <a href="/wiki/Hisar_(city)" title="Hisar (city)">Hissar</a>, and <a href="/wiki/Delhi" title="Delhi">Delhi</a>. The Chaamas Phulkari incorporates mirrors which are sewn into the cloth with yellow, grey, or blue thread.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Phulkari_of_South_and_Southwestern_Punjab_region">Phulkari of South and Southwestern Punjab region</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=14" title="Edit section: Phulkari of South and Southwestern Punjab region"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The phulkari of south and southwestern <a href="/wiki/Punjab_region" class="mw-redirect" title="Punjab region">Punjab</a> in India and Pakistan has wide edges upon which designs of animals and birds are embroidered. As is the case of the chope, the edges are embroidered on both sides of the cloth.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Usage">Usage</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=15" title="Edit section: Usage"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Traditionally, phulkari garments were part of a girl's wedding <a href="/wiki/Dowry" title="Dowry">trousseau</a>. Its motifs were expressive of her emotions and the number of phulkari pieces defined the status of the family.<sup id="cite_ref-25" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-25"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>25<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p> According to Blurton (2003), "angular satin-stitch baghs (shawls) and phulkaris (shawls similar to baghs, but less heavily embroidered)" up to 20 pieces would form part of a brides dowry. The items would be gifted by the bride's father, uncles and mother-in-law. Blurton further states that it took many years for the baghs and phulkaris to be embroidered. Traditionally women would begin to embroider the bhagh when their grandsons were born to be give to their future brides.<sup id="cite_ref-26" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-26"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>26<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup></p><figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:USAID%E2%80%99s_Entrepreneurs_Project_(13424662403).jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c4/USAID%E2%80%99s_Entrepreneurs_Project_%2813424662403%29.jpg/220px-USAID%E2%80%99s_Entrepreneurs_Project_%2813424662403%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="147" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c4/USAID%E2%80%99s_Entrepreneurs_Project_%2813424662403%29.jpg/330px-USAID%E2%80%99s_Entrepreneurs_Project_%2813424662403%29.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c4/USAID%E2%80%99s_Entrepreneurs_Project_%2813424662403%29.jpg/440px-USAID%E2%80%99s_Entrepreneurs_Project_%2813424662403%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2100" data-file-height="1400" /></a><figcaption>A dress from Sindh embroidery of Phulkari called Gulkari in Sindhi. </figcaption></figure> <p>Accordingly, in the past, as soon as a girl was born, mothers and grandmothers would start embroidering Baghs and Phulkaris, which were to be given away at the time of marriage. Depending on the status of the family, the parents would give dowry of 11 to 101 Baghs and Phulkaris. It was also passed from one generation to the next as an heirloom.<sup id="cite_ref-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari_9-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari-9"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Phulkaris and bagh were worn by women all over Punjab during marriage festivals and other joyous occasions. They were embroidered by the women for their own use and use of other family members and were not for sale in the market.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated1_7-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated1-7"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>7<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Thus, it was purely a domestic <a href="/wiki/Art" title="Art">art</a> which not only satisfied their inner urge for creation but brought colour into day-to-day life. In this way, it is a <a href="/wiki/Folk_art" title="Folk art">folk art</a>. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Revival_and_exhibitions">Revival and exhibitions</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=16" title="Edit section: Revival and exhibitions"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Phulkari_used_for_decoration_at_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9f/Phulkari_used_for_decoration_at_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US.jpg/220px-Phulkari_used_for_decoration_at_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="330" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9f/Phulkari_used_for_decoration_at_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US.jpg/330px-Phulkari_used_for_decoration_at_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9f/Phulkari_used_for_decoration_at_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US.jpg/440px-Phulkari_used_for_decoration_at_a_Punjabi_wedding_in_the_US.jpg 2x" data-file-width="4207" data-file-height="6310" /></a><figcaption>Modern use of Phulkari dupatta for Mandap column decoration at Punjabi wedding in the US, 2019</figcaption></figure><figure class="mw-default-size mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Award_winning_Phulkari_embroiderer_in_Patiala_shows_the_contemporary_embroidery_technique.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b0/Award_winning_Phulkari_embroiderer_in_Patiala_shows_the_contemporary_embroidery_technique.jpg/220px-Award_winning_Phulkari_embroiderer_in_Patiala_shows_the_contemporary_embroidery_technique.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="164" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b0/Award_winning_Phulkari_embroiderer_in_Patiala_shows_the_contemporary_embroidery_technique.jpg/330px-Award_winning_Phulkari_embroiderer_in_Patiala_shows_the_contemporary_embroidery_technique.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b0/Award_winning_Phulkari_embroiderer_in_Patiala_shows_the_contemporary_embroidery_technique.jpg/440px-Award_winning_Phulkari_embroiderer_in_Patiala_shows_the_contemporary_embroidery_technique.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2592" data-file-height="1936" /></a><figcaption>Award-winning Phulkari embroiderer in Patiala, Punjab (India) demonstrates first step of the contemporary embroidery technique, 2015</figcaption></figure> <p>Fifty-two different types of phulkari existed at one point in time, but they have now been reduced to less than a handful. In olden days, women could embroider without the use of the tracing blocks. Most contemporary embroiderers can no longer do so and use tracing blocks. According to handloom and handicraft traditions expert <a href="/wiki/Jasleen_Dhamija" title="Jasleen Dhamija">Jasleen Dhamija</a>, "The embroidery form became more or less extinct. Nobody promoted these."<sup id="cite_ref-27" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-27"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Poor treatment from the Indian fashion industry has also been partially blamed for its decline. </p><p> Noting the value of traditional phulkaris, Aryan (1983) collected the garments noting their spectacular artwork.<sup id="cite_ref-28" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-28"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>28<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Such efforts to preserve the art of Phulkari has influenced its revival.</p><figure class="mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Women_in_Punjab,_India_embroidering_using_a_tracing,_2015.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/42/Women_in_Punjab%2C_India_embroidering_using_a_tracing%2C_2015.jpg/140px-Women_in_Punjab%2C_India_embroidering_using_a_tracing%2C_2015.jpg" decoding="async" width="140" height="149" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/42/Women_in_Punjab%2C_India_embroidering_using_a_tracing%2C_2015.jpg/211px-Women_in_Punjab%2C_India_embroidering_using_a_tracing%2C_2015.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/42/Women_in_Punjab%2C_India_embroidering_using_a_tracing%2C_2015.jpg/280px-Women_in_Punjab%2C_India_embroidering_using_a_tracing%2C_2015.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1677" data-file-height="1784" /></a><figcaption>Woman artisan in Rajpura, Punjab (India) embroidering Phulkari using a tracing, 2015</figcaption></figure> <p>Pal (1960) states that, despite there being a reduction in the art for the last 50 years in undivided Punjab, girls and women still continued to embroider phulkaris in the then Punjab comprising modern <a href="/wiki/Punjab,_India" title="Punjab, India">Punjab, India</a>, <a href="/wiki/Haryana" title="Haryana">Haryana</a> and parts of <a href="/wiki/Himachal_Pradesh" title="Himachal Pradesh">Himachal Pradesh</a> to at least the 1950s. In villages far away from the cities, Phulkaris such as the chope were still given to brides hailing from traditional families. However, he noted a marked loss of interest in the craft as a whole. Phulkaris could be seen hanging on walls using nails, being placed on the ground when religious figures attended villages, being used in the fields to collect crops and being used as rags. Phulkaris were being sold at cheap rates to collectors from overseas who would then sell them at higher rates. Women would give away lighter Phulkaris to servants. Pal believed that the Punjab is a progressive state of India but it did not value its traditional crafts. Renewed interest has only resulted from the refugee crisis after the 1947 partition whereby organisations encouraged women to embroider Phulkaris to make ends meet.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated10_8-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated10-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Thind (2005) believes that it is Pal's chapter that triggered a serious interest in preserving the dying tradition of Phulkari. People began to take note of the folk art. Thind also noted private collectors preserving traditional Phulkaris. In his visit to the U.K. in 1980, Thind saw a private collection of Phulkaris with various motifs. He also mentions work by local organisations in Punjab (India). Various books have also been written on the subject either wholly dedicated to the subject or in chapters. The renewed interest can be seen in girls and women wearing Phulkari scarfs and carrying Phulkari bags. However, the new method of embroidering Phulkaris is distinct from the traditional method. Phulkaris are now embroidered using machines and modern materials.<sup id="cite_ref-autogenerated3_20-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-autogenerated3-20"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>20<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>In 2011, after a five-year-long legal case, Phulkari was awarded the <a href="/wiki/Geographical_indication" title="Geographical indication">geographical indication</a> (GI) status in India, which means that after that only registered traders and manufacturers, from the states of Punjab, Haryana, and <a href="/wiki/Rajasthan" title="Rajasthan">Rajasthan</a> would be able to use the term for the traditional craft, and the patent information centre (PIC) of Punjab State Council for Science and Technology<sup id="cite_ref-29" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-29"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> would issue a logo or hologram to distinguish the product.<sup id="cite_ref-30" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-30"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>30<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p> Over the years, the Indian and Punjab governments have been working towards promotion of phulkari embroidery, by organizing special training programs, fairs, and exhibitions.<sup id="cite_ref-tri_5-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-tri-5"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Since most of the women artisans creating phulkari are in the unorganized sector or work through middlemen, they do not make much money compared to an actual selling price of their product. To overcome this, Punjab Small Industries and Export Corporation (PSIEC)<sup id="cite_ref-31" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-31"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>31<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> formed women self-help groups and cooperatives to sell directly and make more profits.<sup id="cite_ref-32" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-32"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Their products retail at PHULKARI- Punjab Government Emporiums<sup id="cite_ref-33" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-33"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>33<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> in New Delhi, Chandigarh, Patiala, Kolktata, and Amritsar. The Patiala Handicraft Workshop Cooperative Industrial Society Ltd.<sup id="cite_ref-34" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-34"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> (Society for Rural Women Empowerment) founded a Phulkari cluster in 1997. 880 Phulkari artisans are now part of the cluster and over 10,000 women have been trained in Phulkari embroidery. </p><figure class="mw-default-size mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Close-up_of_contemporary_Phulkari_embroidery_technique_.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/62/Close-up_of_contemporary_Phulkari_embroidery_technique_.jpg/220px-Close-up_of_contemporary_Phulkari_embroidery_technique_.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="165" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/62/Close-up_of_contemporary_Phulkari_embroidery_technique_.jpg/330px-Close-up_of_contemporary_Phulkari_embroidery_technique_.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/62/Close-up_of_contemporary_Phulkari_embroidery_technique_.jpg/440px-Close-up_of_contemporary_Phulkari_embroidery_technique_.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3264" data-file-height="2448" /></a><figcaption>Close-up of tracing on cloth - a contemporary Phulkari embroidery technique by female artisan in Rajpura, Punjab (India), 2015</figcaption></figure> <p>There are several non-profits in Punjab that promote Phulkari to empower women by providing a source of livelihood. The Nabha Foundation launched the Phulkari Traditional Craft Program in 2007<sup id="cite_ref-35" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-35"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>35<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> to "empower the marginalized rural woman, generate sustainable home based employment." The Phulkari Makers of Bassi Pathana <sup id="cite_ref-36" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-36"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>36<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> is a financially independent self-group which evolved from the vocational training initiatives at Mehar Baba Charitable Trust in 2009. Artisan markets like Dilli Haat<sup id="cite_ref-37" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-37"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>37<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> in New Delhi feature stalls by India several National Award winners like Mrs. Lajwanti Devi from Patiala who was awarded the Rashtrapati Award in 1995 for her embroidery.<sup id="cite_ref-38" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-38"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>38<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Phulkari products can also be found at occasional bazaars at Dastkar,<sup id="cite_ref-39" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-39"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>39<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> at Diwali melas, at the Lota Shop at the National Crafts Museum<sup id="cite_ref-40" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-40"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>40<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> in New Delhi, the Punjab Handloom Emporium in Ludhiana,<sup id="cite_ref-41" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-41"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>41<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> and in some private chains like 1469.<sup id="cite_ref-42" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-42"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>42<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Garg (2017) in her study of the prevalence of the Phulkari craft in Punjab (India) notes that there are various units set up in Patiala district where mainly women reported that they have been carrying on the work set up by their mothers and grandmothers. The respondents also stated that Phulkari work was particularly carried out after the arrival of refugees in Patiala after 1947 from West Punjab.<sup id="cite_ref-43" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-43"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>43<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Some modern fashion designers are incorporating this embroidery into their designs, and its use has spread beyond traditional <i><a href="/wiki/Salwar_kameez" class="mw-redirect" title="Salwar kameez">salwar kameez</a></i> and <i><a href="/wiki/Dupatta" title="Dupatta">dupatta</a></i> to accessories like jackets, handbags, cushion covers, table-mats, shoes, slipper, <i><a href="/wiki/Jutti" title="Jutti">juttis</a></i>, and children's clothes.<sup id="cite_ref-tri_5-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-tri-5"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-44" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-44"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>44<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Phulkaris are now sold online on popular retail and fashion websites and apps and can be found in the homes of Punjabis as well as Indian handloom aficionados. Kaur and Gupta (2016) state that the traditional khaddar material has now been replaced by fine materials such as chiffon and silk for the base. The traditional Pat thread has been replaced by synthetic silk thread. All types of dark and light colours are used. This revival can be used to design the interiors of buildings such as Phulkari style curtains or Phulkari work on lamps to enhance the use of Phulkari.<sup id="cite_ref-45" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-45"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>In Pakistan, Madan and Phul (2016) noted that the Phulkari work of the Punjab was revived in <a href="/wiki/Hazara_region" title="Hazara region">Hazara</a> (of undivided Punjab but now in <a href="/wiki/Khyber_Pakhtunkhwa" title="Khyber Pakhtunkhwa">Khyber Pakhtunkhwa</a>) on the initiative of an NGO. However, the Phulkaris produced on a commercial level are not of the same quality as the traditional craft. But the revival has helped poor rural families.<sup id="cite_ref-46" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-46"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>46<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>The biggest challenge to hand-embroidered Phulkaris today is that the market is flooded with relatively inexpensive machine made Phulkaris manufactured in factories in Amritsar and Ludhiana. As consumers become less discerning and as there is improvisation and innovation in machine embroidery, even stalls at Dilli Haat have begun retailing machine made Phulkaris on synthetic fabrics along with high quality hand embroidered Phulkaris. Phulkari embroidery is a painstaking and time-consuming art that strains the eyes, and, as many women work indoors with poor lighting, it leads to the deterioration of their eyesight over time. Relatively low remunerations have made it an economically unviable option for many young women who do not want to take it up as a means of livelihood. </p><p>There are limited books on Phulkari available online or in bookstores for purchase. The library at Punjabi University, Patiala has extensive reading material on Phulkaris.<sup id="cite_ref-47" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-47"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>47<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Indira_Gandhi_National_Centre_for_the_Arts" title="Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts">Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts</a> (IGNCA) acquired a collection of selected phulkari for its archives in 1994.<sup id="cite_ref-exp_48-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-exp-48"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>48<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> The Textile Gallery at the National Crafts Museum<sup id="cite_ref-49" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-49"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>49<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> has a very extensive collection of Phulkaris. The Philadelphia Museum of Art has a permanent exhibition featuring Phulkaris from the museum's Jill and Sheldon Bonovitz Collection and contemporary designs by Bollywood celebrity designer Manish Malhotra.<sup id="cite_ref-50" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-50"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Phulkari_chowk"><span class="anchor" id="Phulkari_and_chowk_poorana_floor_art"></span>Phulkari chowk</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=17" title="Edit section: Phulkari chowk"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1236090951">.mw-parser-output .hatnote{font-style:italic}.mw-parser-output div.hatnote{padding-left:1.6em;margin-bottom:0.5em}.mw-parser-output .hatnote i{font-style:normal}.mw-parser-output .hatnote+link+.hatnote{margin-top:-0.5em}@media print{body.ns-0 .mw-parser-output .hatnote{display:none!important}}</style><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">See also: <a href="/wiki/Chowk_poorana" title="Chowk poorana">Chowk poorana</a></div> <p>In the Punjab, temporary art using flour, called <a href="/wiki/Chowk_poorana" title="Chowk poorana">chowk poorana</a>, is drawn on the floor for ceremonial or decorative purposes. </p><p>Sometimes chowk poorana is drawn in Punjabi courtyards using flour and colours. The designs drawn are the motifs embroidered on phulkaris. Green is used for the branches and leaves, and white, red and yellow is used for the flowers.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_51-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-51"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>51<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Such chowk is called the <b>phulkari chowk</b>. There are different types of chowk but the starting point is a square made with flour. However, any design can be made within the square such as circles or triangular shapes. Dots are drawn using red <a href="/wiki/Sindoor" title="Sindoor">sindoor</a> (<a href="/wiki/Vermilion" title="Vermilion">vermilion</a>).<sup id="cite_ref-:1_51-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-51"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>51<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="See_also">See also</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=18" title="Edit section: See also"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Embroidery_of_India" title="Embroidery of India">Embroidery of India</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Trinjan" title="Trinjan">Trinjan</a></li></ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="References">References</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=19" title="Edit section: References"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1239543626">.mw-parser-output .reflist{margin-bottom:0.5em;list-style-type:decimal}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .reflist{font-size:90%}}.mw-parser-output .reflist .references{font-size:100%;margin-bottom:0;list-style-type:inherit}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-2{column-width:30em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-3{column-width:25em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns{margin-top:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns ol{margin-top:0}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns li{page-break-inside:avoid;break-inside:avoid-column}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-alpha{list-style-type:upper-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-roman{list-style-type:upper-roman}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-alpha{list-style-type:lower-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-greek{list-style-type:lower-greek}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-roman{list-style-type:lower-roman}</style><div class="reflist"> <div class="mw-references-wrap mw-references-columns"><ol class="references"> <li id="cite_note-1"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-1">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1238218222">.mw-parser-output cite.citation{font-style:inherit;word-wrap:break-word}.mw-parser-output .citation q{quotes:"\"""\"""'""'"}.mw-parser-output .citation:target{background-color:rgba(0,127,255,0.133)}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-free.id-lock-free a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/65/Lock-green.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited.id-lock-limited a,.mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration.id-lock-registration a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d6/Lock-gray-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription.id-lock-subscription a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/aa/Lock-red-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4c/Wikisource-logo.svg")right 0.1em center/12px no-repeat}body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-free a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background-size:contain;padding:0 1em 0 0}.mw-parser-output .cs1-code{color:inherit;background:inherit;border:none;padding:inherit}.mw-parser-output .cs1-hidden-error{display:none;color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-visible-error{color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{display:none;color:#085;margin-left:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-left{padding-left:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-right{padding-right:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .citation .mw-selflink{font-weight:inherit}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .cs1-format{font-size:95%}html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}</style><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.liveauctioneers.com/price-result/an-orange-floss-silk-embroidered-phulkari-sindh/">"LiveAuctioneers: Online Auctions for Arts, Antiques &amp; Collectibles"</a>. <i>LiveAuctioneers</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. 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Patiala: Patiala University.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari-9"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari_9-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari_9-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari_9-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari_9-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari_9-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-The_past_and_present_of_Phulkari_9-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation news cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.tribuneindia.com/news/comment/the-past-and-present-of-phulkari/50112.html">"The past and present of Phulkari"</a>. <i>The Tribune</i>. 6 March 2015<span class="reference-accessdate">. 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Routledge <a rel="nofollow" class="external autonumber" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=ZiMxDwAAQBAJ&amp;q=steel&amp;pg=PT240">[2]</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-15"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-15">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20070604193853/http://www.indian-embroidery.com/phulkari-embroidery.html">"Phulkari embroidery"</a>. Archived from <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.indian-embroidery.com/phulkari-embroidery.html">the original</a> on 4 June 2007<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">15 June</span> 2007</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&amp;rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&amp;rft.genre=unknown&amp;rft.btitle=Phulkari+embroidery&amp;rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.indian-embroidery.com%2Fphulkari-embroidery.html&amp;rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3APhulkari" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-16"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-16">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFGrewal1988" class="citation book cs1">Grewal, Neelam (1988). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=7XgrAAAAMAAJ&amp;q=Khaddar+casement+for+phulkari"><i>The Needle Lore: Traditional Embroideries of Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan</i></a>. 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(1996) Traditional Embroideries of India</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-24"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-24">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">(2014) Kaur, Rajinder and Gupta, Ila (2014) Phulkari and Bagh folk art of Punjab: a study of changing designs from traditional to contemporary time. Researchgate <a rel="nofollow" class="external autonumber" href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/316433155_Phulkari_and_Bagh_folk_art_of_Punjab_a_study_of_changing_designs_from_traditional_to_contemporary_time">[4]</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-25"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-25">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.vogue.in/content/everyones-talking-about-phulkari">"Everyone's talking about: Phulkari"</a>. 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Shodhganga <a rel="nofollow" class="external autonumber" href="http://hdl.handle.net/10603/225951">[7]</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-44"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-44">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFPoonam_Bajaj2013" class="citation news cs1">Poonam Bajaj (25 March 2013). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20130328075712/http://www.deccanchronicle.com/130325/lifestyle-fashionbeauty/article/blooming-tales-phulkari">"Blooming tales of Phulkari"</a>. Deccan Chronicle. Archived from <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.deccanchronicle.com/130325/lifestyle-fashionbeauty/article/blooming-tales-phulkari">the original</a> on 28 March 2013<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">23 April</span> 2013</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&amp;rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&amp;rft.genre=article&amp;rft.atitle=Blooming+tales+of+Phulkari&amp;rft.date=2013-03-25&amp;rft.au=Poonam+Bajaj&amp;rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.deccanchronicle.com%2F130325%2Flifestyle-fashionbeauty%2Farticle%2Fblooming-tales-phulkari&amp;rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3APhulkari" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-45"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-45">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Kaur, Rajinder and Gupta, Ila (2016) The Implementation of Phulkari Embroidert pattern in Interior Decoration in Understanding Built Environment: Proceedings of the National Conference on Sustainable Built Environment 2015. Springer <a rel="nofollow" class="external autonumber" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=VZbLDQAAQBAJ&amp;q=phulkari+&amp;pg=PA175">[8]</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-46"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-46">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Madan, Arwaha, and Phul, Savitribhai (2016) Chapter 17 Innovation and Craft revival in Exploring the Benefits of Creativity in Education, Media, and the Arts.IGI Global <a rel="nofollow" class="external autonumber" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=5VSiDAAAQBAJ&amp;q=phulkari&amp;pg=PA382">[9]</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-47"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-47">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.punjabiuniversity.ac.in/">"Punjabi University, Patiala | Higher Education Institute | NAAC "A" Grade | Punjab"</a>. <i>www.punjabiuniversity.ac.in</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. 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Retrieved <span class="nowrap">23 April</span> 2013</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&amp;rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&amp;rft.genre=article&amp;rft.atitle=Phulkari%2C+Then+and+Now&amp;rft.date=2013-04-19&amp;rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.indianexpress.com%2Fnews%2Fphulkari-then-and-now%2F1104457%2F&amp;rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3APhulkari" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-49"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-49">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/art-and-culture/national-crafts-museum-delhi-things-to-see-6157814/">"National Crafts Museum: Away from Delhi's chaos, history in all its glory"</a>. <i>The Indian Express</i>. 9 December 2019<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">31 January</span> 2020</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&amp;rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&amp;rft.genre=unknown&amp;rft.jtitle=The+Indian+Express&amp;rft.atitle=National+Crafts+Museum%3A+Away+from+Delhi%27s+chaos%2C+history+in+all+its+glory&amp;rft.date=2019-12-09&amp;rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Findianexpress.com%2Farticle%2Flifestyle%2Fart-and-culture%2Fnational-crafts-museum-delhi-things-to-see-6157814%2F&amp;rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3APhulkari" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-50"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-50">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/857.html">"Philadelphia Museum of Art - Exhibitions - Phulkari: The Embroidered Textiles of Punjab from the Jill and Sheldon Bonovitz Collection"</a>. <i>www.philamuseum.org</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">31 January</span> 2020</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&amp;rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&amp;rft.genre=unknown&amp;rft.jtitle=www.philamuseum.org&amp;rft.atitle=Philadelphia+Museum+of+Art+-+Exhibitions+-+Phulkari%3A+The+Embroidered+Textiles+of+Punjab+from+the+Jill+and+Sheldon+Bonovitz+Collection&amp;rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.philamuseum.org%2Fexhibitions%2F857.html&amp;rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3APhulkari" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:1-51"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:1_51-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_51-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text">Bedi, Wanjara Singh (2001)Waṇajārā Bedī dī ātama kathā. Arasi Publications <a rel="nofollow" class="external autonumber" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=JvI1AAAAMAAJ&amp;q=+%E0%A8%AB%E0%A9%81%E0%A8%B2%E0%A8%95%E0%A8%BE%E0%A8%B0%E0%A9%80">[10]</a></span> </li> </ol></div></div> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="External_links">External links</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Phulkari&amp;action=edit&amp;section=20" title="Edit section: External links"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1235681985">.mw-parser-output .side-box{margin:4px 0;box-sizing:border-box;border:1px solid #aaa;font-size:88%;line-height:1.25em;background-color:var(--background-color-interactive-subtle,#f8f9fa);display:flow-root}.mw-parser-output .side-box-abovebelow,.mw-parser-output .side-box-text{padding:0.25em 0.9em}.mw-parser-output .side-box-image{padding:2px 0 2px 0.9em;text-align:center}.mw-parser-output .side-box-imageright{padding:2px 0.9em 2px 0;text-align:center}@media(min-width:500px){.mw-parser-output .side-box-flex{display:flex;align-items:center}.mw-parser-output .side-box-text{flex:1;min-width:0}}@media(min-width:720px){.mw-parser-output .side-box{width:238px}.mw-parser-output .side-box-right{clear:right;float:right;margin-left:1em}.mw-parser-output .side-box-left{margin-right:1em}}</style><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1237033735">@media print{body.ns-0 .mw-parser-output .sistersitebox{display:none!important}}@media screen{html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .sistersitebox img[src*="Wiktionary-logo-en-v2.svg"]{background-color:white}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .sistersitebox img[src*="Wiktionary-logo-en-v2.svg"]{background-color:white}}</style><div class="side-box side-box-right plainlinks sistersitebox"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1126788409">.mw-parser-output .plainlist ol,.mw-parser-output .plainlist ul{line-height:inherit;list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}.mw-parser-output .plainlist ol li,.mw-parser-output .plainlist ul li{margin-bottom:0}</style> <div class="side-box-flex"> <div class="side-box-image"><span class="noviewer" typeof="mw:File"><span><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/30px-Commons-logo.svg.png" decoding="async" width="30" height="40" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/45px-Commons-logo.svg.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/59px-Commons-logo.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="1024" data-file-height="1376" /></span></span></div> <div class="side-box-text plainlist">Wikimedia Commons has media related to <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Phulkari" class="extiw" title="commons:Category:Phulkari">Phulkari</a></span>.</div></div> </div> <ul><li><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.indianheritage.biz/files/PHULKARI-IH.pdf">Phulkari- Ancient Textile of Punjab</a></li> <li><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.hali.com/news/phulkari-exhibition-turin/">Phulkari exhibition, Turin</a>, 2016</li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="Na" class="citation book cs1">Shailaja D. Naik (1996). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=oNAwl-jS3gwC&amp;q=phulkari&amp;pg=PA103">"Phulkari of Punjab"</a>. <i>Traditional Embroideries Of India</i>. APH Publishing. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a>&#160;<a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/8170247314" title="Special:BookSources/8170247314"><bdi>8170247314</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&amp;rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&amp;rft.genre=bookitem&amp;rft.atitle=Phulkari+of+Punjab&amp;rft.btitle=Traditional+Embroideries+Of+India&amp;rft.pub=APH+Publishing&amp;rft.date=1996&amp;rft.isbn=8170247314&amp;rft.au=Shailaja+D.+Naik&amp;rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DoNAwl-jS3gwC%26q%3Dphulkari%26pg%3DPA103&amp;rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3APhulkari" class="Z3988"></span></li> <li>Darielle Mason (Editor, Contributor), Cristin McKnight Sethi (Contributor), <i>Phulkari: The Embroidered Textiles of Punjab from the Jill and Sheldon Bonovitz Collection</i>, Yale University Press (18 April 2017), <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a>&#160;<a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0300225907" title="Special:BookSources/978-0300225907">978-0300225907</a></li> <li>S. S. Hitkari, <i>Phulkari: The Folk Art of the Punjab,</i> Phulkari Publications, 1980, <a rel="nofollow" class="external free" href="https://www.si.edu/object/siris_sil_875793">https://www.si.edu/object/siris_sil_875793</a></li> <li>Punjab Emporium Ludhiana, Punjab, India <a rel="nofollow" class="external free" href="http://punjabhandloomemporium.in/">http://punjabhandloomemporium.in/</a></li> <li>PHULKARI - Punjab Government Emporiums, India <a rel="nofollow" class="external free" href="http://psiec.punjab.gov.in/phulkari.html">http://psiec.punjab.gov.in/phulkari.html</a></li> <li>Phulkari Cluster, Rajpura, Punjab, India <a rel="nofollow" class="external free" href="http://www.phulkariindia.com/cluster.html">http://www.phulkariindia.com/cluster.html</a></li> <li>Women Empowerment Through Phulkari Program, The Nabha Foundation, Punjab, India <a rel="nofollow" class="external free" href="https://thenabhafoundation.org/women-empowerment/">https://thenabhafoundation.org/women-empowerment/</a></li> <li>Phulkari Makers Bassi Pathana (PMBP), Mehar Baba Charitable Trust, Punjab, India <a rel="nofollow" class="external free" href="http://www.mbtrust.org/phulkari-makers.html">http://www.mbtrust.org/phulkari-makers.html</a></li> <li>Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts, New Delhi, India <a rel="nofollow" class="external free" href="http://ignca.gov.in/">http://ignca.gov.in/</a></li> <li>National Crafts Museum &amp; Hastkala Academy, New Delhi, India, <a rel="nofollow" class="external free" href="https://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/art-and-culture/national-crafts-museum-delhi-things-to-see-6157814/">https://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/art-and-culture/national-crafts-museum-delhi-things-to-see-6157814/</a></li> <li>The Jill and Sheldon Bonovitz Collection, The Philadelphia Museum of Art, <a rel="nofollow" class="external free" href="https://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/2013/768.html?page=3">https://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/2013/768.html?page=3</a></li></ul> <div class="navbox-styles"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1236075235">.mw-parser-output .navbox{box-sizing:border-box;border:1px solid #a2a9b1;width:100%;clear:both;font-size:88%;text-align:center;padding:1px;margin:1em auto 0}.mw-parser-output .navbox .navbox{margin-top:0}.mw-parser-output .navbox+.navbox,.mw-parser-output .navbox+.navbox-styles+.navbox{margin-top:-1px}.mw-parser-output .navbox-inner,.mw-parser-output .navbox-subgroup{width:100%}.mw-parser-output .navbox-group,.mw-parser-output .navbox-title,.mw-parser-output .navbox-abovebelow{padding:0.25em 1em;line-height:1.5em;text-align:center}.mw-parser-output .navbox-group{white-space:nowrap;text-align:right}.mw-parser-output .navbox,.mw-parser-output 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dl,.mw-parser-output .navbox td.hlist ol,.mw-parser-output .navbox td.hlist ul{padding:0.125em 0}.mw-parser-output .navbox .navbar{display:block;font-size:100%}.mw-parser-output .navbox-title .navbar{float:left;text-align:left;margin-right:0.5em}body.skin--responsive .mw-parser-output .navbox-image img{max-width:none!important}@media print{body.ns-0 .mw-parser-output .navbox{display:none!important}}</style></div><div role="navigation" class="navbox" aria-labelledby="State_of_Punjab,_India" style="padding:3px"><table class="nowraplinks mw-collapsible autocollapse navbox-inner" style="border-spacing:0;background:transparent;color:inherit"><tbody><tr><th scope="col" class="navbox-title" colspan="3"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1239400231"><div class="navbar plainlinks hlist navbar-mini"><ul><li class="nv-view"><a href="/wiki/Template:Punjab,_India" title="Template:Punjab, India"><abbr title="View this template">v</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-talk"><a href="/wiki/Template_talk:Punjab,_India" title="Template talk:Punjab, India"><abbr title="Discuss this template">t</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-edit"><a href="/wiki/Special:EditPage/Template:Punjab,_India" title="Special:EditPage/Template:Punjab, India"><abbr title="Edit this template">e</abbr></a></li></ul></div><div id="State_of_Punjab,_India" style="font-size:114%;margin:0 4em"><a href="/wiki/States_and_union_territories_of_India" title="States and union territories of India">State</a> of <a href="/wiki/Punjab,_India" title="Punjab, India">Punjab, India</a></div></th></tr><tr><td class="navbox-abovebelow" colspan="3"><div><a href="/wiki/List_of_state_and_union_territory_capitals_in_India" title="List of state and union territory capitals in India">Capital</a>: <b><a href="/wiki/Chandigarh" title="Chandigarh">Chandigarh</a></b></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Category:Punjab,_India" title="Category:Punjab, India">Topics</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Demographics_of_Punjab,_India" title="Demographics of Punjab, India">Demographics</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Economy_of_Punjab,_India" title="Economy of Punjab, India">Economy</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Education_in_Punjab,_India" title="Education in Punjab, India">Education</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/History_of_Punjab" title="History of Punjab">History</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Porus" title="Porus">King Porus</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabis" title="Punjabis">People</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tourism_in_Punjab,_India" title="Tourism in Punjab, India">Tourism</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Music_of_Punjab" title="Music of Punjab">Music</a></li></ul> </div></td><td class="noviewer navbox-image" rowspan="6" style="width:1px;padding:0 0 0 2px"><div><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Punjab_in_India.png" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/28/Punjab_in_India.png/50px-Punjab_in_India.png" decoding="async" width="50" height="61" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/28/Punjab_in_India.png/75px-Punjab_in_India.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/28/Punjab_in_India.png/100px-Punjab_in_India.png 2x" data-file-width="350" data-file-height="426" /></a></span></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Public_administration" title="Public administration">Administration</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Government_of_Punjab,_India" title="Government of Punjab, India">Government</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjab_Legislative_Assembly" title="Punjab Legislative Assembly">Legislative Assembly</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/List_of_chief_ministers_of_Punjab,_India" title="List of chief ministers of Punjab, India">Chief Ministers</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/List_of_governors_of_Punjab,_India" title="List of governors of Punjab, India">Governors</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Raj_Bhavan,_Punjab" title="Raj Bhavan, Punjab">Raj Bhavan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjab_Police_(India)" title="Punjab Police (India)">Police</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_culture" title="Punjabi culture">Culture</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_cinema" title="Punjabi cinema">Cinema</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_cuisine" title="Punjabi cuisine">Cuisine</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Folk_dances_of_Punjab" title="Folk dances of Punjab">Folk dances</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bhangra_(dance)" title="Bhangra (dance)">Bhangra</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Giddha" title="Giddha">Giddha</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Aawat_pauni" title="Aawat pauni">Aawat pauni</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tipri_dance_(Punjab)" title="Tipri dance (Punjab)">Tipri dance (Punjab)</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_folklore" title="Punjabi folklore">Folklore</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Folk_practices_in_Punjab" title="Folk practices in Punjab">Folk practices</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Sanjhi" title="Sanjhi">Sanjhi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Gogaji" title="Gogaji">Gogaji</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chhapar_Mela" title="Chhapar Mela">Chhapar Mela</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sakhi_Sarwar_(saint)" title="Sakhi Sarwar (saint)">Sakhi Sarwar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_fasts" class="mw-redirect" title="Punjabi fasts">Punjabi fasts</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_language" title="Punjabi language">Language</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Gurmukhi" title="Gurmukhi">Gurmukhi</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Music_of_Punjab" title="Music of Punjab">Music</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Bhangra_(music)" title="Bhangra (music)">Bhangra</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Folk_music_of_Punjab" title="Folk music of Punjab">Folk music</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_clothing" title="Punjabi clothing">Dress</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Salwar" title="Salwar">Salwar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_ghagra_suit" title="Punjabi ghagra suit">Punjabi ghagra suit</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Patiala_salwar" title="Patiala salwar">Patiala salwar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_Tamba_and_Kurta" title="Punjabi Tamba and Kurta">Punjabi Tamba and Kurta</a></li> <li><a class="mw-selflink selflink">Phulkari</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jutti" title="Jutti">Jutti</a></li></ul></li> <li>Calendars <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_calendar" title="Punjabi calendar">Punjabi calendar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Nanakshahi_calendar" title="Nanakshahi calendar">Nanakshahi calendar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Vikram_Samvat" title="Vikram Samvat">Bikrami calendar</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/List_of_fairs_and_festivals_in_Punjab,_India" title="List of fairs and festivals in Punjab, India">Fairs and festivals</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_festivals" title="Punjabi festivals">Punjabi festivals</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Lohri" title="Lohri">Lohri</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Basant_(festival)" title="Basant (festival)">Basant</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Maghi" title="Maghi">Maghi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Holi" title="Holi">Holi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Teeyan" title="Teeyan">Teeyan</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Rakhri" class="mw-redirect" title="Rakhri">Rakhri</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Vaisakhi" title="Vaisakhi">Vaisakhi</a></li></ul></li> <li>Religious festivals <ul><li><a href="/wiki/List_of_Hindu_festivals_in_Punjab" title="List of Hindu festivals in Punjab">Hindu festivals</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/List_of_Sikh_festivals" title="List of Sikh festivals">Sikh festivals</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_sports_(India)" class="mw-redirect" title="Punjabi sports (India)">Sports</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Kabaddi" title="Kabaddi">Kabaddi</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kabaddi_in_India" title="Kabaddi in India">Kabaddi in India</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Qila_Raipur_Sports_Festival" title="Qila Raipur Sports Festival">Qila Raipur Sports Festival</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_kabaddi" title="Punjabi kabaddi">Punjabi kabaddi</a></li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_nationalism" title="Punjabi nationalism">Punjabi nationalism</a> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Punjabi_Suba_movement" title="Punjabi Suba movement">Punjabi Suba movement</a></li></ul></li> <li>Folk arts and crafts <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Chowk_poorana" title="Chowk poorana">Chowk poorana</a></li> <li><a class="mw-selflink selflink">Phulkari</a></li></ul></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Divisions</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li>Patiala</li> <li>Rupnagar</li> <li>Jalandhar</li> <li>Faridkot</li> <li>Firozpur</li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/List_of_districts_of_Punjab,_India" title="List of districts of Punjab, India">Districts</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Mohali_district" title="Mohali district">SAS Nagar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Amritsar_district" title="Amritsar district">Sri Amritsar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Barnala_district" title="Barnala district">Barnala</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bathinda_district" title="Bathinda district">Bathinda</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Faridkot_district" title="Faridkot district">Faridkot </a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fatehgarh_Sahib_district" title="Fatehgarh Sahib district">Fatehgarh Sahib</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fazilka_district" title="Fazilka district">Fazilka</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Firozpur_district" title="Firozpur district">Firozpur </a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Gurdaspur_district" title="Gurdaspur district">Gurdaspur</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hoshiarpur_district" title="Hoshiarpur district">Hoshiarpur</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jalandhar_district" title="Jalandhar district">Jalandhar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kapurthala_district" title="Kapurthala district">Kapurthala </a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ludhiana_district" title="Ludhiana district">Ludhiana</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mansa_district,_India" title="Mansa district, India">Mansa</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Moga_district" title="Moga district">Moga</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pathankot_district" title="Pathankot district">Pathankot</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Patiala_district" title="Patiala district">Patiala</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sri_Muktsar_Sahib_district" title="Sri Muktsar Sahib district">Sri Muktsar Sahib</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Rupnagar_district" title="Rupnagar district">Rupnagar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sangrur_district" title="Sangrur district">Sangrur</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Shaheed_Bhagat_Singh_Nagar_district" title="Shaheed Bhagat Singh Nagar district">Shaheed Bhagat Singh Nagar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tarn_Taran_district" title="Tarn Taran district">Tarn Taran Sahib</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/List_of_cities_in_Chandigarh_and_Punjab,_India_by_population" class="mw-redirect" title="List of cities in Chandigarh and Punjab, India by population">Major cities</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Ludhiana" title="Ludhiana">Ludhiana</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Amritsar" title="Amritsar">Amritsar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jalandhar" title="Jalandhar">Jalandhar</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Patiala" title="Patiala">Patiala</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bathinda" title="Bathinda">Bathinda</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hoshiarpur" title="Hoshiarpur">Hoshiarpur</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mohali" title="Mohali">Mohali</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Batala" title="Batala">Batala</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pathankot" title="Pathankot">Pathankot</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Moga,_Punjab" title="Moga, Punjab">Moga</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table></div> <div class="navbox-styles"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236075235"></div><div role="navigation" class="navbox" 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