CINXE.COM

<!DOCTYPE html> <html class="client-nojs vector-feature-language-in-header-enabled vector-feature-language-in-main-page-header-disabled vector-feature-page-tools-pinned-disabled vector-feature-toc-pinned-clientpref-1 vector-feature-main-menu-pinned-disabled vector-feature-limited-width-clientpref-1 vector-feature-limited-width-content-enabled vector-feature-custom-font-size-clientpref-1 vector-feature-appearance-pinned-clientpref-1 vector-feature-night-mode-enabled skin-theme-clientpref-day vector-sticky-header-enabled vector-toc-available" lang="en" dir="ltr"> <head> <meta charset="UTF-8"> <title>1924 British Mount Everest expedition - Wikipedia</title> <script>(function(){var className="client-js vector-feature-language-in-header-enabled vector-feature-language-in-main-page-header-disabled vector-feature-page-tools-pinned-disabled vector-feature-toc-pinned-clientpref-1 vector-feature-main-menu-pinned-disabled vector-feature-limited-width-clientpref-1 vector-feature-limited-width-content-enabled vector-feature-custom-font-size-clientpref-1 vector-feature-appearance-pinned-clientpref-1 vector-feature-night-mode-enabled skin-theme-clientpref-day vector-sticky-header-enabled vector-toc-available";var cookie=document.cookie.match(/(?:^|; )enwikimwclientpreferences=([^;]+)/);if(cookie){cookie[1].split('%2C').forEach(function(pref){className=className.replace(new RegExp('(^| )'+pref.replace(/-clientpref-\w+$|[^\w-]+/g,'')+'-clientpref-\\w+( |$)'),'$1'+pref+'$2');});}document.documentElement.className=className;}());RLCONF={"wgBreakFrames":false,"wgSeparatorTransformTable":["",""],"wgDigitTransformTable":["",""],"wgDefaultDateFormat":"dmy", "wgMonthNames":["","January","February","March","April","May","June","July","August","September","October","November","December"],"wgRequestId":"2fdac641-9b5a-4dbe-b718-c4fcca033e55","wgCanonicalNamespace":"","wgCanonicalSpecialPageName":false,"wgNamespaceNumber":0,"wgPageName":"1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition","wgTitle":"1924 British Mount Everest expedition","wgCurRevisionId":1269650512,"wgRevisionId":1269650512,"wgArticleId":20562313,"wgIsArticle":true,"wgIsRedirect":false,"wgAction":"view","wgUserName":null,"wgUserGroups":["*"],"wgCategories":["Articles with short description","Short description is different from Wikidata","EngvarB from June 2019","Use dmy dates from December 2019","All articles with specifically marked weasel-worded phrases","Articles with specifically marked weasel-worded phrases from February 2020","All articles lacking reliable references","Articles lacking reliable references from February 2020","Mount Everest expeditions", "Mountaineering in the United Kingdom","1924 in science","Expeditions from the United Kingdom","Tibet–United Kingdom relations"],"wgPageViewLanguage":"en","wgPageContentLanguage":"en","wgPageContentModel":"wikitext","wgRelevantPageName":"1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition","wgRelevantArticleId":20562313,"wgIsProbablyEditable":true,"wgRelevantPageIsProbablyEditable":true,"wgRestrictionEdit":[],"wgRestrictionMove":[],"wgNoticeProject":"wikipedia","wgCiteReferencePreviewsActive":false,"wgFlaggedRevsParams":{"tags":{"status":{"levels":1}}},"wgMediaViewerOnClick":true,"wgMediaViewerEnabledByDefault":true,"wgPopupsFlags":0,"wgVisualEditor":{"pageLanguageCode":"en","pageLanguageDir":"ltr","pageVariantFallbacks":"en"},"wgMFDisplayWikibaseDescriptions":{"search":true,"watchlist":true,"tagline":false,"nearby":true},"wgWMESchemaEditAttemptStepOversample":false,"wgWMEPageLength":60000,"wgEditSubmitButtonLabelPublish":true,"wgULSPosition":"interlanguage","wgULSisCompactLinksEnabled":false, "wgVector2022LanguageInHeader":true,"wgULSisLanguageSelectorEmpty":false,"wgWikibaseItemId":"Q918286","wgCheckUserClientHintsHeadersJsApi":["brands","architecture","bitness","fullVersionList","mobile","model","platform","platformVersion"],"GEHomepageSuggestedEditsEnableTopics":true,"wgGETopicsMatchModeEnabled":false,"wgGEStructuredTaskRejectionReasonTextInputEnabled":false,"wgGELevelingUpEnabledForUser":false};RLSTATE={"ext.globalCssJs.user.styles":"ready","site.styles":"ready","user.styles":"ready","ext.globalCssJs.user":"ready","user":"ready","user.options":"loading","ext.cite.styles":"ready","skins.vector.search.codex.styles":"ready","skins.vector.styles":"ready","skins.vector.icons":"ready","jquery.makeCollapsible.styles":"ready","ext.wikimediamessages.styles":"ready","ext.visualEditor.desktopArticleTarget.noscript":"ready","ext.uls.interlanguage":"ready","wikibase.client.init":"ready","ext.wikimediaBadges":"ready"};RLPAGEMODULES=["ext.cite.ux-enhancements","mediawiki.page.media", "ext.scribunto.logs","site","mediawiki.page.ready","jquery.makeCollapsible","mediawiki.toc","skins.vector.js","ext.centralNotice.geoIP","ext.centralNotice.startUp","ext.gadget.ReferenceTooltips","ext.gadget.switcher","ext.urlShortener.toolbar","ext.centralauth.centralautologin","mmv.bootstrap","ext.popups","ext.visualEditor.desktopArticleTarget.init","ext.visualEditor.targetLoader","ext.echo.centralauth","ext.eventLogging","ext.wikimediaEvents","ext.navigationTiming","ext.uls.interface","ext.cx.eventlogging.campaigns","ext.cx.uls.quick.actions","wikibase.client.vector-2022","ext.checkUser.clientHints","ext.growthExperiments.SuggestedEditSession"];</script> <script>(RLQ=window.RLQ||[]).push(function(){mw.loader.impl(function(){return["user.options@12s5i",function($,jQuery,require,module){mw.user.tokens.set({"patrolToken":"+\\","watchToken":"+\\","csrfToken":"+\\"}); }];});});</script> <link rel="stylesheet" href="/w/load.php?lang=en&modules=ext.cite.styles%7Cext.uls.interlanguage%7Cext.visualEditor.desktopArticleTarget.noscript%7Cext.wikimediaBadges%7Cext.wikimediamessages.styles%7Cjquery.makeCollapsible.styles%7Cskins.vector.icons%2Cstyles%7Cskins.vector.search.codex.styles%7Cwikibase.client.init&only=styles&skin=vector-2022"> <script async="" src="/w/load.php?lang=en&modules=startup&only=scripts&raw=1&skin=vector-2022"></script> <meta name="ResourceLoaderDynamicStyles" content=""> <link rel="stylesheet" href="/w/load.php?lang=en&modules=site.styles&only=styles&skin=vector-2022"> <meta name="generator" content="MediaWiki 1.44.0-wmf.16"> <meta name="referrer" content="origin"> <meta name="referrer" content="origin-when-cross-origin"> <meta name="robots" content="max-image-preview:standard"> <meta name="format-detection" content="telephone=no"> <meta property="og:image" content="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d9/Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg/1200px-Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg"> <meta property="og:image:width" content="1200"> <meta property="og:image:height" content="798"> <meta property="og:image" content="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d9/Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg/800px-Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg"> <meta property="og:image:width" content="800"> <meta property="og:image:height" content="532"> <meta property="og:image" content="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d9/Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg/640px-Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg"> <meta property="og:image:width" content="640"> <meta property="og:image:height" content="425"> <meta name="viewport" content="width=1120"> <meta property="og:title" content="1924 British Mount Everest expedition - Wikipedia"> <meta property="og:type" content="website"> <link rel="preconnect" href="//upload.wikimedia.org"> <link rel="alternate" media="only screen and (max-width: 640px)" href="//en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition"> <link rel="alternate" type="application/x-wiki" title="Edit this page" href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit"> <link rel="apple-touch-icon" href="/static/apple-touch/wikipedia.png"> <link rel="icon" href="/static/favicon/wikipedia.ico"> <link rel="search" type="application/opensearchdescription+xml" href="/w/rest.php/v1/search" title="Wikipedia (en)"> <link rel="EditURI" type="application/rsd+xml" href="//en.wikipedia.org/w/api.php?action=rsd"> <link rel="canonical" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition"> <link rel="license" href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/deed.en"> <link rel="alternate" type="application/atom+xml" title="Wikipedia Atom feed" href="/w/index.php?title=Special:RecentChanges&feed=atom"> <link rel="dns-prefetch" href="//meta.wikimedia.org" /> <link rel="dns-prefetch" href="login.wikimedia.org"> </head> <body class="skin--responsive skin-vector skin-vector-search-vue mediawiki ltr sitedir-ltr mw-hide-empty-elt ns-0 ns-subject mw-editable page-1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition rootpage-1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition skin-vector-2022 action-view"><a class="mw-jump-link" href="#bodyContent">Jump to content</a> <div class="vector-header-container"> <header class="vector-header mw-header"> <div class="vector-header-start"> <nav class="vector-main-menu-landmark" aria-label="Site"> <div id="vector-main-menu-dropdown" class="vector-dropdown vector-main-menu-dropdown vector-button-flush-left vector-button-flush-right" title="Main menu" > <input type="checkbox" id="vector-main-menu-dropdown-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-vector-main-menu-dropdown" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox " aria-label="Main menu" > <label id="vector-main-menu-dropdown-label" for="vector-main-menu-dropdown-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only " aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-menu mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-menu"></span> <span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">Main menu</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div id="vector-main-menu-unpinned-container" class="vector-unpinned-container"> <div id="vector-main-menu" class="vector-main-menu vector-pinnable-element"> <div class="vector-pinnable-header vector-main-menu-pinnable-header vector-pinnable-header-unpinned" data-feature-name="main-menu-pinned" data-pinnable-element-id="vector-main-menu" data-pinned-container-id="vector-main-menu-pinned-container" data-unpinned-container-id="vector-main-menu-unpinned-container" > <div class="vector-pinnable-header-label">Main menu</div> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-pin-button" data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-main-menu.pin">move to sidebar</button> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-unpin-button" data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-main-menu.unpin">hide</button> </div> <div id="p-navigation" class="vector-menu mw-portlet mw-portlet-navigation" > <div class="vector-menu-heading"> Navigation </div> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="n-mainpage-description" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Main_Page" title="Visit the main page [z]" accesskey="z"><span>Main page</span></a></li><li id="n-contents" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents" title="Guides to browsing Wikipedia"><span>Contents</span></a></li><li id="n-currentevents" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Portal:Current_events" title="Articles related to current events"><span>Current events</span></a></li><li id="n-randompage" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Special:Random" title="Visit a randomly selected article [x]" accesskey="x"><span>Random article</span></a></li><li id="n-aboutsite" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:About" title="Learn about Wikipedia and how it works"><span>About Wikipedia</span></a></li><li id="n-contactpage" class="mw-list-item"><a href="//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Contact_us" title="How to contact Wikipedia"><span>Contact us</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> <div id="p-interaction" class="vector-menu mw-portlet mw-portlet-interaction" > <div class="vector-menu-heading"> Contribute </div> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="n-help" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Help:Contents" title="Guidance on how to use and edit Wikipedia"><span>Help</span></a></li><li id="n-introduction" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Help:Introduction" title="Learn how to edit Wikipedia"><span>Learn to edit</span></a></li><li id="n-portal" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:Community_portal" title="The hub for editors"><span>Community portal</span></a></li><li id="n-recentchanges" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Special:RecentChanges" title="A list of recent changes to Wikipedia [r]" accesskey="r"><span>Recent changes</span></a></li><li id="n-upload" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:File_upload_wizard" title="Add images or other media for use on Wikipedia"><span>Upload file</span></a></li><li id="n-specialpages" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Special:SpecialPages"><span>Special pages</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </nav> <a href="/wiki/Main_Page" class="mw-logo"> <img class="mw-logo-icon" src="/static/images/icons/wikipedia.png" alt="" aria-hidden="true" height="50" width="50"> <span class="mw-logo-container skin-invert"> <img class="mw-logo-wordmark" alt="Wikipedia" src="/static/images/mobile/copyright/wikipedia-wordmark-en.svg" style="width: 7.5em; height: 1.125em;"> <img class="mw-logo-tagline" alt="The Free Encyclopedia" src="/static/images/mobile/copyright/wikipedia-tagline-en.svg" width="117" height="13" style="width: 7.3125em; height: 0.8125em;"> </span> </a> </div> <div class="vector-header-end"> <div id="p-search" role="search" class="vector-search-box-vue vector-search-box-collapses vector-search-box-show-thumbnail vector-search-box-auto-expand-width vector-search-box"> <a href="/wiki/Special:Search" class="cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only search-toggle" title="Search Wikipedia [f]" accesskey="f"><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-search mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-search"></span> <span>Search</span> </a> <div class="vector-typeahead-search-container"> <div class="cdx-typeahead-search cdx-typeahead-search--show-thumbnail cdx-typeahead-search--auto-expand-width"> <form action="/w/index.php" id="searchform" class="cdx-search-input cdx-search-input--has-end-button"> <div id="simpleSearch" class="cdx-search-input__input-wrapper" data-search-loc="header-moved"> <div class="cdx-text-input cdx-text-input--has-start-icon"> <input class="cdx-text-input__input" type="search" name="search" placeholder="Search Wikipedia" aria-label="Search Wikipedia" autocapitalize="sentences" title="Search Wikipedia [f]" accesskey="f" id="searchInput" > <span class="cdx-text-input__icon cdx-text-input__start-icon"></span> </div> <input type="hidden" name="title" value="Special:Search"> </div> <button class="cdx-button cdx-search-input__end-button">Search</button> </form> </div> </div> </div> <nav class="vector-user-links vector-user-links-wide" aria-label="Personal tools"> <div class="vector-user-links-main"> <div id="p-vector-user-menu-preferences" class="vector-menu mw-portlet emptyPortlet" > <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> </ul> </div> </div> <div id="p-vector-user-menu-userpage" class="vector-menu mw-portlet emptyPortlet" > <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> </ul> </div> </div> <nav class="vector-appearance-landmark" aria-label="Appearance"> <div id="vector-appearance-dropdown" class="vector-dropdown " title="Change the appearance of the page's font size, width, and color" > <input type="checkbox" id="vector-appearance-dropdown-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-vector-appearance-dropdown" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox " aria-label="Appearance" > <label id="vector-appearance-dropdown-label" for="vector-appearance-dropdown-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only " aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-appearance mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-appearance"></span> <span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">Appearance</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div id="vector-appearance-unpinned-container" class="vector-unpinned-container"> </div> </div> </div> </nav> <div id="p-vector-user-menu-notifications" class="vector-menu mw-portlet emptyPortlet" > <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> </ul> </div> </div> <div id="p-vector-user-menu-overflow" class="vector-menu mw-portlet" > <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="pt-sitesupport-2" class="user-links-collapsible-item mw-list-item user-links-collapsible-item"><a data-mw="interface" href="https://donate.wikimedia.org/?wmf_source=donate&wmf_medium=sidebar&wmf_campaign=en.wikipedia.org&uselang=en" class=""><span>Donate</span></a> </li> <li id="pt-createaccount-2" class="user-links-collapsible-item mw-list-item user-links-collapsible-item"><a data-mw="interface" href="/w/index.php?title=Special:CreateAccount&returnto=1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" title="You are encouraged to create an account and log in; however, it is not mandatory" class=""><span>Create account</span></a> </li> <li id="pt-login-2" class="user-links-collapsible-item mw-list-item user-links-collapsible-item"><a data-mw="interface" href="/w/index.php?title=Special:UserLogin&returnto=1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" title="You're encouraged to log in; however, it's not mandatory. [o]" accesskey="o" class=""><span>Log in</span></a> </li> </ul> </div> </div> </div> <div id="vector-user-links-dropdown" class="vector-dropdown vector-user-menu vector-button-flush-right vector-user-menu-logged-out" title="Log in and more options" > <input type="checkbox" id="vector-user-links-dropdown-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-vector-user-links-dropdown" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox " aria-label="Personal tools" > <label id="vector-user-links-dropdown-label" for="vector-user-links-dropdown-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only " aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-ellipsis mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-ellipsis"></span> <span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">Personal tools</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div id="p-personal" class="vector-menu mw-portlet mw-portlet-personal user-links-collapsible-item" title="User menu" > <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="pt-sitesupport" class="user-links-collapsible-item mw-list-item"><a href="https://donate.wikimedia.org/?wmf_source=donate&wmf_medium=sidebar&wmf_campaign=en.wikipedia.org&uselang=en"><span>Donate</span></a></li><li id="pt-createaccount" class="user-links-collapsible-item mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Special:CreateAccount&returnto=1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" title="You are encouraged to create an account and log in; however, it is not mandatory"><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-userAdd mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-userAdd"></span> <span>Create account</span></a></li><li id="pt-login" class="user-links-collapsible-item mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Special:UserLogin&returnto=1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" title="You're encouraged to log in; however, it's not mandatory. [o]" accesskey="o"><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-logIn mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-logIn"></span> <span>Log in</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> <div id="p-user-menu-anon-editor" class="vector-menu mw-portlet mw-portlet-user-menu-anon-editor" > <div class="vector-menu-heading"> Pages for logged out editors <a href="/wiki/Help:Introduction" aria-label="Learn more about editing"><span>learn more</span></a> </div> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="pt-anoncontribs" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Special:MyContributions" title="A list of edits made from this IP address [y]" accesskey="y"><span>Contributions</span></a></li><li id="pt-anontalk" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Special:MyTalk" title="Discussion about edits from this IP address [n]" accesskey="n"><span>Talk</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> </div> </div> </nav> </div> </header> </div> <div class="mw-page-container"> <div class="mw-page-container-inner"> <div class="vector-sitenotice-container"> <div id="siteNotice"></div> </div> <div class="vector-column-start"> <div class="vector-main-menu-container"> <div id="mw-navigation"> <nav id="mw-panel" class="vector-main-menu-landmark" aria-label="Site"> <div id="vector-main-menu-pinned-container" class="vector-pinned-container"> </div> </nav> </div> </div> <div class="vector-sticky-pinned-container"> <nav id="mw-panel-toc" aria-label="Contents" data-event-name="ui.sidebar-toc" class="mw-table-of-contents-container vector-toc-landmark"> <div id="vector-toc-pinned-container" class="vector-pinned-container"> <div id="vector-toc" class="vector-toc vector-pinnable-element"> <div class="vector-pinnable-header vector-toc-pinnable-header vector-pinnable-header-pinned" data-feature-name="toc-pinned" data-pinnable-element-id="vector-toc" > <h2 class="vector-pinnable-header-label">Contents</h2> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-pin-button" data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-toc.pin">move to sidebar</button> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-unpin-button" data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-toc.unpin">hide</button> </div> <ul class="vector-toc-contents" id="mw-panel-toc-list"> <li id="toc-mw-content-text" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a href="#" class="vector-toc-link"> <div class="vector-toc-text">(Top)</div> </a> </li> <li id="toc-Background_and_motivation" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Background_and_motivation"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1</span> <span>Background and motivation</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Background_and_motivation-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Preparations" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Preparations"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">2</span> <span>Preparations</span> </div> </a> <button aria-controls="toc-Preparations-sublist" class="cdx-button cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only vector-toc-toggle"> <span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-expand"></span> <span>Toggle Preparations subsection</span> </button> <ul id="toc-Preparations-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Participants" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Participants"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">2.1</span> <span>Participants</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Participants-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Journey" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Journey"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">3</span> <span>Journey</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Journey-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Planned_access_route" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Planned_access_route"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">4</span> <span>Planned access route</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Planned_access_route-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Erection_of_the_camps" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Erection_of_the_camps"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">5</span> <span>Erection of the camps</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Erection_of_the_camps-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Summit_attempts" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Summit_attempts"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">6</span> <span>Summit attempts</span> </div> </a> <button aria-controls="toc-Summit_attempts-sublist" class="cdx-button cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only vector-toc-toggle"> <span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-expand"></span> <span>Toggle Summit attempts subsection</span> </button> <ul id="toc-Summit_attempts-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-First:_Mallory_and_Bruce" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#First:_Mallory_and_Bruce"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">6.1</span> <span>First: Mallory and Bruce</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-First:_Mallory_and_Bruce-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Second:_Norton_and_Somervell" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Second:_Norton_and_Somervell"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">6.2</span> <span>Second: Norton and Somervell</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Second:_Norton_and_Somervell-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Third:_Mallory_and_Irvine" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Third:_Mallory_and_Irvine"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">6.3</span> <span>Third: Mallory and Irvine</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Third:_Mallory_and_Irvine-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-After_the_expedition" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#After_the_expedition"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">7</span> <span>After the expedition</span> </div> </a> <button aria-controls="toc-After_the_expedition-sublist" class="cdx-button cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only vector-toc-toggle"> <span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-expand"></span> <span>Toggle After the expedition subsection</span> </button> <ul id="toc-After_the_expedition-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Odell's_sighting_of_Mallory_and_Irvine" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Odell's_sighting_of_Mallory_and_Irvine"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">7.1</span> <span>Odell's sighting of Mallory and Irvine</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Odell's_sighting_of_Mallory_and_Irvine-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Findings" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Findings"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">7.2</span> <span>Findings</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Findings-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-First_ascent_speculation" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#First_ascent_speculation"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">8</span> <span>First ascent speculation</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-First_ascent_speculation-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-See_also" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#See_also"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">9</span> <span>See also</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-See_also-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Bibliography" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Bibliography"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">10</span> <span>Bibliography</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Bibliography-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-References" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#References"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">11</span> <span>References</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-References-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </div> </div> </nav> </div> </div> <div class="mw-content-container"> <main id="content" class="mw-body"> <header class="mw-body-header vector-page-titlebar"> <nav aria-label="Contents" class="vector-toc-landmark"> <div id="vector-page-titlebar-toc" class="vector-dropdown vector-page-titlebar-toc vector-button-flush-left" title="Table of Contents" > <input type="checkbox" id="vector-page-titlebar-toc-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-vector-page-titlebar-toc" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox " aria-label="Toggle the table of contents" > <label id="vector-page-titlebar-toc-label" for="vector-page-titlebar-toc-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only " aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-listBullet mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-listBullet"></span> <span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">Toggle the table of contents</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div id="vector-page-titlebar-toc-unpinned-container" class="vector-unpinned-container"> </div> </div> </div> </nav> <h1 id="firstHeading" class="firstHeading mw-first-heading"><span class="mw-page-title-main">1924 British Mount Everest expedition</span></h1> <div id="p-lang-btn" class="vector-dropdown mw-portlet mw-portlet-lang" > <input type="checkbox" id="p-lang-btn-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-p-lang-btn" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox mw-interlanguage-selector" aria-label="Go to an article in another language. Available in 6 languages" > <label id="p-lang-btn-label" for="p-lang-btn-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--action-progressive mw-portlet-lang-heading-6" aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-language-progressive mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-language-progressive"></span> <span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">6 languages</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-de badge-Q17437796 badge-featuredarticle mw-list-item" title="featured article badge"><a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Britische_Mount-Everest-Expedition_1924" title="Britische Mount-Everest-Expedition 1924 – German" lang="de" hreflang="de" data-title="Britische Mount-Everest-Expedition 1924" data-language-autonym="Deutsch" data-language-local-name="German" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Deutsch</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-es mw-list-item"><a href="https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expedici%C3%B3n_brit%C3%A1nica_al_Everest_de_1924" title="Expedición británica al Everest de 1924 – Spanish" lang="es" hreflang="es" data-title="Expedición británica al Everest de 1924" data-language-autonym="Español" data-language-local-name="Spanish" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Español</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-fr mw-list-item"><a href="https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exp%C3%A9dition_britannique_%C3%A0_l%27Everest_de_1924" title="Expédition britannique à l'Everest de 1924 – French" lang="fr" hreflang="fr" data-title="Expédition britannique à l'Everest de 1924" data-language-autonym="Français" data-language-local-name="French" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Français</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-it mw-list-item"><a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spedizione_britannica_all%27Everest_del_1924" title="Spedizione britannica all'Everest del 1924 – Italian" lang="it" hreflang="it" data-title="Spedizione britannica all'Everest del 1924" data-language-autonym="Italiano" data-language-local-name="Italian" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Italiano</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-ro mw-list-item"><a href="https://ro.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expedi%C8%9Bia_britanic%C4%83_pe_Everest_din_1924" title="Expediția britanică pe Everest din 1924 – Romanian" lang="ro" hreflang="ro" data-title="Expediția britanică pe Everest din 1924" data-language-autonym="Română" data-language-local-name="Romanian" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Română</span></a></li><li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-ru badge-Q17437798 badge-goodarticle mw-list-item" title="good article badge"><a href="https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%91%D1%80%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B0%D0%BD%D1%81%D0%BA%D0%B0%D1%8F_%D1%8D%D0%BA%D1%81%D0%BF%D0%B5%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%86%D0%B8%D1%8F_%D0%BD%D0%B0_%D0%94%D0%B6%D0%BE%D0%BC%D0%BE%D0%BB%D1%83%D0%BD%D0%B3%D0%BC%D1%83_(1924)" title="Британская экспедиция на Джомолунгму (1924) – Russian" lang="ru" hreflang="ru" data-title="Британская экспедиция на Джомолунгму (1924)" data-language-autonym="Русский" data-language-local-name="Russian" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Русский</span></a></li> </ul> <div class="after-portlet after-portlet-lang"><span class="wb-langlinks-edit wb-langlinks-link"><a href="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Special:EntityPage/Q918286#sitelinks-wikipedia" title="Edit interlanguage links" class="wbc-editpage">Edit links</a></span></div> </div> </div> </div> </header> <div class="vector-page-toolbar"> <div class="vector-page-toolbar-container"> <div id="left-navigation"> <nav aria-label="Namespaces"> <div id="p-associated-pages" class="vector-menu vector-menu-tabs mw-portlet mw-portlet-associated-pages" > <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="ca-nstab-main" class="selected vector-tab-noicon mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="View the content page [c]" accesskey="c"><span>Article</span></a></li><li id="ca-talk" class="vector-tab-noicon mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Talk:1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" rel="discussion" title="Discuss improvements to the content page [t]" accesskey="t"><span>Talk</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> <div id="vector-variants-dropdown" class="vector-dropdown emptyPortlet" > <input type="checkbox" id="vector-variants-dropdown-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-vector-variants-dropdown" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox " aria-label="Change language variant" > <label id="vector-variants-dropdown-label" for="vector-variants-dropdown-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet" aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">English</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div id="p-variants" class="vector-menu mw-portlet mw-portlet-variants emptyPortlet" > <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> </ul> </div> </div> </div> </div> </nav> </div> <div id="right-navigation" class="vector-collapsible"> <nav aria-label="Views"> <div id="p-views" class="vector-menu vector-menu-tabs mw-portlet mw-portlet-views" > <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="ca-view" class="selected vector-tab-noicon mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition"><span>Read</span></a></li><li id="ca-edit" class="vector-tab-noicon mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit" title="Edit this page [e]" accesskey="e"><span>Edit</span></a></li><li id="ca-history" class="vector-tab-noicon mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=history" title="Past revisions of this page [h]" accesskey="h"><span>View history</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> </nav> <nav class="vector-page-tools-landmark" aria-label="Page tools"> <div id="vector-page-tools-dropdown" class="vector-dropdown vector-page-tools-dropdown" > <input type="checkbox" id="vector-page-tools-dropdown-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-vector-page-tools-dropdown" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox " aria-label="Tools" > <label id="vector-page-tools-dropdown-label" for="vector-page-tools-dropdown-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet" aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">Tools</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div id="vector-page-tools-unpinned-container" class="vector-unpinned-container"> <div id="vector-page-tools" class="vector-page-tools vector-pinnable-element"> <div class="vector-pinnable-header vector-page-tools-pinnable-header vector-pinnable-header-unpinned" data-feature-name="page-tools-pinned" data-pinnable-element-id="vector-page-tools" data-pinned-container-id="vector-page-tools-pinned-container" data-unpinned-container-id="vector-page-tools-unpinned-container" > <div class="vector-pinnable-header-label">Tools</div> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-pin-button" data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-page-tools.pin">move to sidebar</button> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-unpin-button" data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-page-tools.unpin">hide</button> </div> <div id="p-cactions" class="vector-menu mw-portlet mw-portlet-cactions emptyPortlet vector-has-collapsible-items" title="More options" > <div class="vector-menu-heading"> Actions </div> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="ca-more-view" class="selected vector-more-collapsible-item mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition"><span>Read</span></a></li><li id="ca-more-edit" class="vector-more-collapsible-item mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit" title="Edit this page [e]" accesskey="e"><span>Edit</span></a></li><li id="ca-more-history" class="vector-more-collapsible-item mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=history"><span>View history</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> <div id="p-tb" class="vector-menu mw-portlet mw-portlet-tb" > <div class="vector-menu-heading"> General </div> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="t-whatlinkshere" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Special:WhatLinksHere/1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="List of all English Wikipedia pages containing links to this page [j]" accesskey="j"><span>What links here</span></a></li><li id="t-recentchangeslinked" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Special:RecentChangesLinked/1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" rel="nofollow" title="Recent changes in pages linked from this page [k]" accesskey="k"><span>Related changes</span></a></li><li id="t-upload" class="mw-list-item"><a href="//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:File_Upload_Wizard" title="Upload files [u]" accesskey="u"><span>Upload file</span></a></li><li id="t-permalink" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&oldid=1269650512" title="Permanent link to this revision of this page"><span>Permanent link</span></a></li><li id="t-info" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=info" title="More information about this page"><span>Page information</span></a></li><li id="t-cite" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Special:CiteThisPage&page=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&id=1269650512&wpFormIdentifier=titleform" title="Information on how to cite this page"><span>Cite this page</span></a></li><li id="t-urlshortener" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Special:UrlShortener&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2F1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition"><span>Get shortened URL</span></a></li><li id="t-urlshortener-qrcode" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Special:QrCode&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2F1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition"><span>Download QR code</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> <div id="p-coll-print_export" class="vector-menu mw-portlet mw-portlet-coll-print_export" > <div class="vector-menu-heading"> Print/export </div> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="coll-download-as-rl" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Special:DownloadAsPdf&page=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=show-download-screen" title="Download this page as a PDF file"><span>Download as PDF</span></a></li><li id="t-print" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&printable=yes" title="Printable version of this page [p]" accesskey="p"><span>Printable version</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> <div id="p-wikibase-otherprojects" class="vector-menu mw-portlet mw-portlet-wikibase-otherprojects" > <div class="vector-menu-heading"> In other projects </div> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li class="wb-otherproject-link wb-otherproject-commons mw-list-item"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" hreflang="en"><span>Wikimedia Commons</span></a></li><li id="t-wikibase" class="wb-otherproject-link wb-otherproject-wikibase-dataitem mw-list-item"><a href="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Special:EntityPage/Q918286" title="Structured data on this page hosted by Wikidata [g]" accesskey="g"><span>Wikidata item</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </nav> </div> </div> </div> <div class="vector-column-end"> <div class="vector-sticky-pinned-container"> <nav class="vector-page-tools-landmark" aria-label="Page tools"> <div id="vector-page-tools-pinned-container" class="vector-pinned-container"> </div> </nav> <nav class="vector-appearance-landmark" aria-label="Appearance"> <div id="vector-appearance-pinned-container" class="vector-pinned-container"> <div id="vector-appearance" class="vector-appearance vector-pinnable-element"> <div class="vector-pinnable-header vector-appearance-pinnable-header vector-pinnable-header-pinned" data-feature-name="appearance-pinned" data-pinnable-element-id="vector-appearance" data-pinned-container-id="vector-appearance-pinned-container" data-unpinned-container-id="vector-appearance-unpinned-container" > <div class="vector-pinnable-header-label">Appearance</div> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-pin-button" data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-appearance.pin">move to sidebar</button> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-unpin-button" data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-appearance.unpin">hide</button> </div> </div> </div> </nav> </div> </div> <div id="bodyContent" class="vector-body" aria-labelledby="firstHeading" data-mw-ve-target-container> <div class="vector-body-before-content"> <div class="mw-indicators"> </div> <div id="siteSub" class="noprint">From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia</div> </div> <div id="contentSub"><div id="mw-content-subtitle"></div></div> <div id="mw-content-text" class="mw-body-content"><div class="mw-content-ltr mw-parser-output" lang="en" dir="ltr"><div class="shortdescription nomobile noexcerpt noprint searchaux" style="display:none">Attempt at first ascent of Mount Everest in 1924</div> <p class="mw-empty-elt"> </p> <figure typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d9/Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg/300px-Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg" decoding="async" width="300" height="199" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d9/Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg/450px-Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d9/Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg/600px-Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1300" data-file-height="864" /></a><figcaption>North face of Mount Everest</figcaption></figure> <p>The <b>1924 British Mount Everest expedition</b> was—after the <a href="/wiki/1922_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1922 British Mount Everest expedition">1922 British Mount Everest expedition</a>—the 2nd expedition with the goal of achieving the <a href="/wiki/First_ascent" title="First ascent">first ascent</a> of <a href="/wiki/Mount_Everest" title="Mount Everest">Mount Everest</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 1">: 1 </span></sup> After two summit attempts in which <a href="/wiki/Edward_Felix_Norton" class="mw-redirect" title="Edward Felix Norton">Edward Norton</a> set a <a href="/wiki/World_altitude_record_(mountaineering)" title="World altitude record (mountaineering)">world altitude record</a> of 8,572.8 metres (28,126 ft),<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 11">: 11 </span></sup> the mountaineers <a href="/wiki/George_Mallory" title="George Mallory">George Mallory</a> and <a href="/wiki/Andrew_Irvine_(mountaineer)" title="Andrew Irvine (mountaineer)">Andrew "Sandy" Irvine</a> disappeared on the third attempt. Their disappearance has given rise to the long-standing speculation of whether or not the pair might – under a narrow set of assumptions – have reached the summit.<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 1">: 1 </span></sup> Mallory's body was found in 1999 at 8,156 metres (26,760 ft), but the resulting clues did not provide any conclusive evidence as to whether the summit was reached.<sup id="cite_ref-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Irvine's partial remains were later found in 2024 by a <i><a href="/wiki/National_Geographic" title="National Geographic">National Geographic</a></i> team during a descent of the <a href="/wiki/Rongbuk_Glacier" title="Rongbuk Glacier">Rongbuk Glacier</a> by the north face.<sup id="cite_ref-auto_3-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto-3"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>3<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <meta property="mw:PageProp/toc" /> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Background_and_motivation">Background and motivation</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=1" title="Edit section: Background and motivation"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>At the beginning of the 20th century, the British participated in contests to be the first to reach the <a href="/wiki/North_Pole" title="North Pole">North</a> and <a href="/wiki/South_Pole" title="South Pole">South Poles</a>, without success. A desire to restore national prestige led to scrutiny and discussion of the possibility of "conquering the third pole" – making the first ascent of the highest mountain on Earth. </p><p>The southern side of the mountain, which is accessible from <a href="/wiki/Nepal" title="Nepal">Nepal</a> and today is the standard climbing route, was unavailable as Nepal was a "forbidden country" for westerners. Going to the north side was politically complex: it required the persistent intervention of the British-Indian government with the <a href="/wiki/Thubten_Gyatso,_13th_Dalai_Lama" class="mw-redirect" title="Thubten Gyatso, 13th Dalai Lama">Dalai Lama</a> regime in <a href="/wiki/Tibet" title="Tibet">Tibet</a> to allow British expedition activities. </p><p>A major handicap of all expeditions to the north side of Mount Everest is the tight time window between the end of winter and the start of the <a href="/wiki/Monsoon" title="Monsoon">monsoon</a> rains. To travel from <a href="/wiki/Darjeeling" title="Darjeeling">Darjeeling</a> in northern India over <a href="/wiki/Sikkim" title="Sikkim">Sikkim</a> to Tibet, it was necessary to climb high, long snow-laden passes east of the <a href="/wiki/Kangchenjunga" title="Kangchenjunga">Kangchenjunga</a> area. After this first step, a long journey followed through the valley of the <a href="/wiki/Arun_River_(Nepal)" class="mw-redirect" title="Arun River (Nepal)">Arun River</a> to the <a href="/wiki/Rongbuk_Glacier" title="Rongbuk Glacier">Rongbuk</a> valley near the north face of Mount Everest. Horses, donkeys, yaks, and dozens of local <a href="/wiki/Porter_(carrier)" title="Porter (carrier)">porters</a> provided transport. The expeditions arrived at Mount Everest in late April and only had until June before the monsoon began, allowing only six to eight weeks for <a href="/wiki/Altitude_acclimatisation" class="mw-redirect" title="Altitude acclimatisation">altitude acclimatisation</a>, setting up camps, and the actual climbing attempts. </p><p>A secondary task for the expedition was to <a href="/wiki/Surveying" title="Surveying">survey</a> the area around the <a href="/wiki/Rongbuk_Glacier" title="Rongbuk Glacier">West Rongbuk Glacier</a>. The <a href="/wiki/Survey_of_India" title="Survey of India">Survey of India</a> sent a <a href="/wiki/Gurkha" title="Gurkha">Gurkha</a> surveyor with the expedition who was assisted in climbing to the difficult areas to survey.<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 149">: 149 </span></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Preparations">Preparations</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=2" title="Edit section: Preparations"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Two expeditions preceded the 1924 effort. The <a href="/wiki/1921_British_Mount_Everest_reconnaissance_expedition" title="1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition">first in 1921</a> was an exploratory expedition led by <a href="/wiki/Harold_Raeburn" title="Harold Raeburn">Harold Raeburn</a> which described a potential route along the whole northeast ridge. Later George Mallory proposed a longer modified climb to the north col, then along the north ridge to reach the northeast ridge, and then on to the summit. This approach seemed to be the "easiest" terrain to reach the top. After they had discovered access to the base of the north col via the East <a href="/wiki/Rongbuk_Glacier" title="Rongbuk Glacier">Rongbuk Glacier</a>, the complete route was explored and appeared to be the superior option. Several attempts on Mallory's proposed route occurred during the 1922 expedition. </p><p>After this expedition, insufficient time for preparation and a lack of financial means prevented an expedition in 1923. The Common Everest Committee had lost £700 (equivalent to £50,429 in 2023) in the bankruptcy of the <a href="/wiki/Alliance_Bank_of_Simla" title="Alliance Bank of Simla">Alliance Bank of Simla</a>, causing the third expedition to be postponed until 1924.<sup id="cite_ref-MalGeh_4-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-MalGeh-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-GeoJou_5-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-GeoJou-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Like the two earlier expeditions, the 1924 expedition was also planned, financed and organised by the membership of the <a href="/wiki/Royal_Geographical_Society" title="Royal Geographical Society">Royal Geographical Society</a>, the <a href="/wiki/Alpine_Club" class="mw-redirect" title="Alpine Club">Alpine Club</a>, and a major contribution by Captain <a href="/wiki/John_Noel_(mountaineer)" class="mw-redirect" title="John Noel (mountaineer)">John Noel</a>, who thereby purchased all photographic rights. The <a href="/wiki/Mount_Everest_Committee" class="mw-redirect" title="Mount Everest Committee">Mount Everest Committee</a> which they formed used military strategies, with some military personnel. </p><p>One important change was the role of the porters. The 1922 expedition recognised several of them were capable of gaining great heights and quickly learning <a href="/wiki/Mountaineering" title="Mountaineering">mountaineering</a> skills. The changed climbing strategy increased their involvement, later culminating in an equal partnership of <a href="/wiki/Tenzing_Norgay" title="Tenzing Norgay">Tenzing Norgay</a> for the first known ascent in 1953 together with <a href="/wiki/Edmund_Hillary" title="Edmund Hillary">Edmund Hillary</a>. The gradual reversal in the system of "Sahib – Porter" from the earliest expeditions eventually led to a "professional – client" situation where the Sherpa "porters" are the mountaineering professionals to clients.<sup id="cite_ref-MalGeh_4-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-MalGeh-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Like the 1922 expedition, the 1924 expedition also brought <a href="/wiki/Bottled_oxygen_(climbing)" class="mw-redirect" title="Bottled oxygen (climbing)">bottled oxygen</a> to the mountain. The oxygen equipment had been improved during the two intervening years, but was still not very reliable, and there was no clear agreement whether to use this assistance at all. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Participants">Participants</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=3" title="Edit section: Participants"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The expedition was headed by the same leader as the 1922 expedition, General <a href="/wiki/Charles_Granville_Bruce" title="Charles Granville Bruce">Charles G. Bruce</a>. He was responsible for managing equipment and supplies, hiring porters and choosing the route to the mountain. </p><p>The question of which mountaineers would comprise the climbing party was no easy one. As a consequence of <a href="/wiki/World_War_I" title="World War I">World War I</a>, there was a lack of a whole generation of strong young men. George Mallory was again part of the mission, along with <a href="/wiki/Howard_Somervell" title="Howard Somervell">Howard Somervell</a>, <a href="/wiki/Edward_Felix_Norton" class="mw-redirect" title="Edward Felix Norton">Edward "Teddy" Norton</a> and <a href="/wiki/Geoffrey_Bruce_(mountaineer)" class="mw-redirect" title="Geoffrey Bruce (mountaineer)">Geoffrey Bruce</a>. <a href="/wiki/George_Finch_(chemist)" title="George Finch (chemist)">George Ingle Finch</a>, who had gained the record height in 1922, was proposed as a member but eventually was not included. The influential Secretary of the committee, <a href="/wiki/Arthur_Hinks" class="mw-redirect" title="Arthur Hinks">Arthur Hinks</a>, made it clear<sup class="noprint Inline-Template" style="white-space:nowrap;">[<i><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:Avoid_weasel_words" class="mw-redirect" title="Wikipedia:Avoid weasel words"><span title="The material in the vicinity of this tag may use weasel words or too-vague attribution. (February 2020)">to whom?</span></a></i>]</sup> that for an Australian to be first on Everest was not acceptable; the British wanted the climb to be an example of British spirit to lift morale. Mallory refused to climb again without Finch, but changed his mind after being personally persuaded by the <a href="/wiki/British_royal_family" title="British royal family">British royal family</a> at Hinks's request.<sup id="cite_ref-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The new members of the climbing team included <a href="/wiki/Noel_Odell" title="Noel Odell">Noel Odell</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-7"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>7<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Bentley_Beetham" title="Bentley Beetham">Bentley Beetham</a> and <a href="/wiki/John_de_Vars_Hazard" title="John de Vars Hazard">John de Vars Hazard</a>. <a href="/wiki/Andrew_Irvine_(mountaineer)" title="Andrew Irvine (mountaineer)">Andrew "Sandy" Irvine</a>, an engineering student whom Odell knew from an expedition to <a href="/wiki/Svalbard" title="Svalbard">Spitsbergen</a> in 1923, was a so-called "experiment" for the team and a test for "young blood" on the slopes of Mount Everest. Due to his technical and mechanical expertise, Irvine was able to enhance the capacities of the oxygen equipment, to decrease the weight, and to perform numerous repairs to it and other expedition equipment. </p><p>The participants were not only selected for their mountaineering abilities; the status of their families and any military experience or university degrees were also factors in the selection procedures. Military experience was of the highest importance in the public image and communication to the newspapers. Quaker-educated Richard B. Graham, b. 1893 (Bootham School, York, 1906–10) was also chosen, but resigned on being told that some members of the party objected to climbing with a man who had refused to fight in the war.<sup id="cite_ref-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-8"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="noprint Inline-Template noprint noexcerpt Template-Fact" style="white-space:nowrap;">[<i><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:NOTRS" class="mw-redirect" title="Wikipedia:NOTRS"><span title="This claim needs references to better sources. (February 2020)">better source needed</span></a></i>]</sup> </p><p>The full expedition team consisted of 60 porters<sup id="cite_ref-:0_9-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-9"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 0:32:34">: 0:32:34 </span></sup> and the following members: </p> <table class="wikitable"> <tbody><tr class="hintergrundfarbe6"> <th>Name </th> <th>Function </th> <th>Profession </th></tr> <tr> <td><a href="/wiki/Charles_Granville_Bruce" title="Charles Granville Bruce">Charles G. Bruce</a> </td> <td>head of expedition </td> <td>soldier (officer, <a href="/wiki/Brigadier-general_(United_Kingdom)" class="mw-redirect" title="Brigadier-general (United Kingdom)">Brigadier-General</a>) </td></tr> <tr> <td><a href="/wiki/Edward_F._Norton" title="Edward F. Norton">Edward F. Norton</a> </td> <td>deputy head of expedition, mountaineer </td> <td>soldier (officer, <a href="/wiki/Lieutenant_colonel_(United_Kingdom)" title="Lieutenant colonel (United Kingdom)">Lieutenant-Colonel</a>) </td></tr> <tr> <td><a href="/wiki/George_Mallory" title="George Mallory">George Mallory</a> </td> <td>mountaineer </td> <td>teacher </td></tr> <tr> <td><a href="/wiki/Bentley_Beetham" title="Bentley Beetham">Bentley Beetham</a> </td> <td>mountaineer </td> <td>teacher </td></tr> <tr> <td><a href="/wiki/Geoffrey_Bruce_(Indian_Army_officer)" class="mw-redirect" title="Geoffrey Bruce (Indian Army officer)">Geoffrey Bruce</a> </td> <td>mountaineer </td> <td>soldier (officer, <a href="/wiki/Captain_(British_Army_and_Royal_Marines)" title="Captain (British Army and Royal Marines)">Captain</a>) </td></tr> <tr> <td><a href="/wiki/John_de_Vars_Hazard" title="John de Vars Hazard">John de Vars Hazard</a> </td> <td>mountaineer </td> <td>engineer </td></tr> <tr> <td><a href="/wiki/Richard_Hingston" title="Richard Hingston">R.W.G. Hingston</a> </td> <td><a href="/wiki/Expedition_medicine" title="Expedition medicine">expedition doctor</a> </td> <td>medical doctor and soldier (officer, <a href="/wiki/Major_(United_Kingdom)" title="Major (United Kingdom)">Major</a>) </td></tr> <tr> <td><a href="/wiki/Andrew_Irvine_(mountaineer)" title="Andrew Irvine (mountaineer)">Andrew Irvine</a> </td> <td>mountaineer </td> <td>engineering student </td></tr> <tr> <td><a href="/wiki/John_Baptist_Lucius_Noel" title="John Baptist Lucius Noel">John B. L. Noel</a> </td> <td>photographer, movie camera operator </td> <td>soldier (officer, Captain) </td></tr> <tr> <td><a href="/wiki/Noel_Odell" title="Noel Odell">Noel E. Odell</a> </td> <td>mountaineer </td> <td>geologist </td></tr> <tr> <td><a href="/wiki/Edward_Oswald_Shebbeare" title="Edward Oswald Shebbeare">E. O. Shebbeare</a> </td> <td>transport officer, interpreter<sup id="cite_ref-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-10"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>10<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </td> <td>forester </td></tr> <tr> <td><a href="/wiki/Howard_Somervell" title="Howard Somervell">Dr. T. Howard Somervell</a> </td> <td>mountaineer </td> <td>medical doctor </td></tr></tbody></table> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Journey">Journey</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=4" title="Edit section: Journey"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Karte_Mount_Everest.png" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/cc/Karte_Mount_Everest.png/220px-Karte_Mount_Everest.png" decoding="async" width="220" height="220" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/cc/Karte_Mount_Everest.png/330px-Karte_Mount_Everest.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/cc/Karte_Mount_Everest.png/440px-Karte_Mount_Everest.png 2x" data-file-width="1000" data-file-height="1000" /></a><figcaption>Map of Mount Everest</figcaption></figure> <figure class="mw-default-size mw-halign-right" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Mount_Everest_from_Rombok_Gompa,_Tibet.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/01/Mount_Everest_from_Rombok_Gompa%2C_Tibet.jpg/220px-Mount_Everest_from_Rombok_Gompa%2C_Tibet.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="346" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/01/Mount_Everest_from_Rombok_Gompa%2C_Tibet.jpg/330px-Mount_Everest_from_Rombok_Gompa%2C_Tibet.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/01/Mount_Everest_from_Rombok_Gompa%2C_Tibet.jpg/440px-Mount_Everest_from_Rombok_Gompa%2C_Tibet.jpg 2x" data-file-width="651" data-file-height="1024" /></a><figcaption>Rombuk Gompa, at end of valley facing the north face of Mount Everest</figcaption></figure> <p>At the end of February 1924, Charles and Geoffrey Bruce, Norton and Shebbeare arrived in <a href="/wiki/Darjeeling" title="Darjeeling">Darjeeling</a> where they selected the porters from <a href="/wiki/Tibetan_people" class="mw-redirect" title="Tibetan people">Tibetans</a> and <a href="/wiki/Sherpa_people" title="Sherpa people">Sherpas</a>. They once again engaged the Tibetan born <a href="/wiki/Karma_Paul" title="Karma Paul">Karma Paul</a> for translation purposes and Gyalzen for <a href="/wiki/Sardar" title="Sardar">sardar</a> (leader of the porters) and purchased food and material. At the end of March 1924, all expedition members were assembled and the journey to Mount Everest began. They followed the same route as the 1921 and 1922 expeditions. To avoid overloading the <a href="/wiki/Dak_bungalows" class="mw-redirect" title="Dak bungalows">dak bungalows</a>, they travelled in two groups and arrived in <a href="/wiki/Yatung" title="Yatung">Yatung</a> at the beginning of April. <a href="/wiki/Phari_Dzong" class="mw-redirect" title="Phari Dzong">Phari Dzong</a> was reached on 5 April. After negotiations with Tibetan authorities, the main part of the expedition followed the known route to <a href="/wiki/Kampa_Dzong" title="Kampa Dzong">Kampa Dzong</a> while Charles Bruce and a smaller group chose an easier route. During this stage, Bruce was crippled with <a href="/wiki/Malaria" title="Malaria">malaria</a> and was forced to relinquish his leadership role to Norton. On 23 April the expedition reached <a href="/wiki/Shelkar" title="Shelkar">Shekar Dzong</a>. They arrived at the <a href="/wiki/Rongbuk_Monastery" title="Rongbuk Monastery">Rongbuk Monastery</a> on 28 April, some kilometres from the planned <a href="/wiki/Base_camp" class="mw-redirect" title="Base camp">base camp</a>. The <a href="/wiki/Lama" title="Lama">Lama</a> of Rongbuk Monastery was ill and could not speak with the British members and the porters or perform the Buddhist <a href="/wiki/Puja_(Buddhism)" class="mw-redirect" title="Puja (Buddhism)">puja</a> ceremonies. The following day the expedition reached the location of the base camp at the glacier end of the Rongbuk valley. Weather conditions were good during the approach but now the weather was cold and snowy. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Planned_access_route">Planned access route</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=5" title="Edit section: Planned access route"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>As the kingdom of <a href="/wiki/Nepal" title="Nepal">Nepal</a> was forbidden to foreigners, the British expeditions before the Second World War could only gain access to the north side of the mountain. In 1921, Mallory had seen a possible route from the <a href="/wiki/North_Col" title="North Col">North Col</a> to go to the top. This route follows the East Rongbuk Glacier to the North Col. From there, the windy ridges (North Ridge, Northeast Ridge) seemed to allow a practical route to the top. On the Northeast Ridge a formidable obstacle blocks the route in the form of steep cliff called the <i>Second Step</i> at 8,605 metres (28,230 ft), whose difficulty was unknown in 1924. The second step massive is a suddenly steeper stratum of rock with a total height of 30 metres (98 ft). The crux is a 5 metres (16 ft) cliff that was first verifiably climbed by the Chinese in 1960. Since 1975 it has been bridged with a ladder. After that point, the ridge route leads to the summit by a steep (45-degree) snow slope, the "triangular snow field" on the summit pyramid, and thence to the summit ridge. </p><p>The first men to travel this route to the summit were the Chinese in 1960, along the Northeast Ridge. The British since 1922 had made their ascent attempts significantly down the ridge, crossed the giant north face to the Great <a href="/wiki/Couloir" title="Couloir">Couloir</a> (later called the "<a href="/wiki/Norton_Couloir" title="Norton Couloir">Norton Couloir</a>"), climbed along the borderline of the couloir, and then attempted to reach the summit pyramid. This route was unsuccessful until <a href="/wiki/Reinhold_Messner" title="Reinhold Messner">Reinhold Messner</a> followed it for his solo ascent in 1980. The exact route of the Mallory and Irvine ascent is not known. They either used the natural Norton/Harris route—cutting diagonally through the Yellow Band ledges to the Northeast Ridge or, possibly, following the North Ridge straight up to the Northeast Ridge. It is unknown whether either of them reached the summit. The diagonal traverse of the northern face to breach the Second Step strata through the beginning of the Great (Norton) Couloir was a potential alternative to the ridge route, but it is rarely used. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Erection_of_the_camps">Erection of the camps</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=6" title="Edit section: Erection of the camps"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The positions of the high camps were planned before the expedition took place. Camp I (5400 m) was erected as an intermediate camp at the entrance of the East Rongbuk Glacier to the main valley. Camp II (about 6000 m) was erected as another intermediate camp, halfway to Camp III (advanced base camp, 6400 m) about 1 km from the icy slopes leading up to the North Col. </p><p>Supplies were transported by about 150 porters from base camp to advanced base camp. The porters were paid around one shilling per day. At the end of April, they expanded the camp positions, a job which was finished in the first week of May. </p><p>Further climbing activities were delayed because of a snow storm.<sup id="cite_ref-GeoJou_5-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-GeoJou-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> On 15 May, the expedition members received the blessings of the Lama at the Rongbuk Monastery. As the weather started to improve, Norton, Mallory, Somervell and Odell arrived on 19 May at Camp III. One day later, they started to fix ropes on the icy slopes to the North Col. They erected Camp IV on 21 May at a height of 7,000 metres (22,970 ft). </p><p>Once again the weather conditions deteriorated. <a href="/wiki/John_de_Vars_Hazard" title="John de Vars Hazard">John de Vars Hazard</a> remained in Camp IV on the North Col with twelve porters and little food. Eventually, Hazard was able to climb down, but only eight porters came with him. The other four porters, who had become ill, were rescued by Norton, Mallory and Somervell. The whole expedition returned to Camp I. There, fifteen porters who had demonstrated the most strength and competence in climbing were elected as so called "tigers".<sup id="cite_ref-MalGeh_4-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-MalGeh-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-GeoJou_5-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-GeoJou-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Summit_attempts">Summit attempts</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=7" title="Edit section: Summit attempts"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The first attempt was scheduled for Mallory and Bruce, and after that Somervell and Norton would get a chance. Odell and Irvine would support the summit teams from Camp IV on the North Col while Hazard provided support from Camp III. The supporters would also form the reserve teams for a third try. The first and second attempts were done without bottled oxygen.<sup id="cite_ref-GeoJou_5-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-GeoJou-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="First:_Mallory_and_Bruce">First: Mallory and Bruce</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=8" title="Edit section: First: Mallory and Bruce"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>On 1 June 1924 Mallory and Bruce began their first attempt from the North Col, supported by nine "tiger" porters. Camp IV was situated in a relatively protected space some 50 metres (160 ft) below the lip of the North Col; when they left the shelter of the ice walls they were exposed to harsh, icy winds sweeping across the <a href="/wiki/North_Face_(Everest)" title="North Face (Everest)">North Face</a>. Before they were able to install Camp V at 7,681 metres (25,200 ft), four porters abandoned their loads and turned back. While Mallory erected the platforms for the tents, Bruce and one tiger retrieved the abandoned loads. The following day, three tigers also objected to climbing higher, and the attempt was aborted without erecting Camp VI as planned at 8,170 metres (26,800 ft). Halfway down to Camp IV, the first summit team met Norton and Somervell who had just started their attempt.<sup id="cite_ref-MalGeh_4-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-MalGeh-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-GeoJou_5-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-GeoJou-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Second:_Norton_and_Somervell">Second: Norton and Somervell</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=9" title="Edit section: Second: Norton and Somervell"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The second attempt was started on 2 June by Norton and Somervell with the support of six porters. They were astonished to see Mallory and Bruce descending so early and wondered if their porters would also refuse to continue beyond Camp V. This fear was partially realised when two porters were sent "home" to Camp IV, but the other four porters and the two English climbers spent the night in Camp V. On the following day, three of the porters brought up the materials to establish Camp VI at 8,170 metres (26,800 ft) in a small niche. The porters were then sent back to Camp IV on the North Col. </p><p>On 4 June, Norton and Somervell were able to start their summit bid at 6:40 am, later than originally planned. A spilled water bottle caused the delay, and a new quantity had to be melted. But the litre of water each man took was wholly inadequate for their climb, and a chronic shortcoming of the pre-WWII climbs. Weather was ideal. After ascending the North Ridge more than 200 metres (660 ft), they decided to traverse the North Face diagonally but, not breathing supplemental oxygen, the effect of altitude forced them to stop frequently to rest. </p><p>Around 12 o'clock, Somervell was no longer able to climb higher. Norton continued alone and traversed to the deep gulley which leads to the eastern foot of the summit pyramid. This gulley was named "Norton Couloir" or "Great Couloir". During this solo climb, Somervell took one of the most remarkable photographs in mountaineering history. It shows Norton near his high point of 8,572.8 metres (28,126 ft) where he tried to climb over steep, icy terrain with some spots of fresh snow. This altitude established a confirmed world record climbing altitude which was not surpassed for another 28 years; the <a href="/wiki/1952_Swiss_Mount_Everest_Expedition" class="mw-redirect" title="1952 Swiss Mount Everest Expedition">1952 Swiss Mount Everest Expedition</a>, when <a href="/wiki/Raymond_Lambert" title="Raymond Lambert">Raymond Lambert</a> and <a href="/wiki/Tenzing_Norgay" title="Tenzing Norgay">Tenzing Norgay</a> reached 8,611 metres (28,251 ft) on the south side of Everest.<sup id="cite_ref-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-11"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>11<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The summit was less than 280 m (920 ft) above Norton when he decided to turn around because of increasing terrain difficulty, insufficient time and doubts of his remaining strength. He re-joined Somervell at 2 pm; and they descended. Shortly after they joined up, Somervell accidentally dropped his ice axe and it fell down the north face and out of view.<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 113">: 113 </span></sup> </p><p>While following Norton, Somervell suffered a severe problem with a blockage of his throat, and he sat down to await his death. In a desperate last attempt, he compressed his lungs with his arms, and suddenly disgorged the blockage – which he described as the lining of his throat. He then followed Norton, who was by now 30 minutes ahead, unaware of the life-threatening episode to his partner. </p><p>Below Camp V it had turned dark, but they managed to reach Camp IV at 9:30 pm and were using "<a href="/wiki/Electric_torches" class="mw-redirect" title="Electric torches">electric torches</a>".<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 115">: 115 </span></sup> They were offered oxygen bottles by Mallory (a sign of his conversion to the shunned aid) but their first wish was to drink water. During the night, Mallory discussed his plan with expedition leader Norton, to make a final attempt with Andrew Irvine and to use oxygen.<sup id="cite_ref-MalGeh_4-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-MalGeh-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-GeoJou_5-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-GeoJou-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>That night, Norton was struck with a severe pain in his eyes. By morning, he was completely <a href="/wiki/Photokeratitis" title="Photokeratitis">snow blind</a> and remained blinded for sixty hours. Norton remained in Camp IV on 5 June because he was most familiar with Nepalese and he assisted with co-ordinating the porters from his tent.<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 117">: 117 </span></sup> On 6 June, Norton was carried down to Camp III (Advanced Base Camp) by a group of six porters who took turns carrying him.<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 119">: 119 </span></sup> In the film, <i><a href="/wiki/The_Epic_of_Everest" title="The Epic of Everest">The Epic of Everest</a></i>, Norton is seen being carried by one of the porters into Camp III.<sup id="cite_ref-:0_9-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-9"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 01:07:29">: 01:07:29 </span></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Third:_Mallory_and_Irvine">Third: Mallory and Irvine</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=10" title="Edit section: Third: Mallory and Irvine"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>While Somervell and Norton ascended, Mallory and Bruce had climbed down to Camp III (ABC) and returned to the Camp IV (North Col) with oxygen. </p><p>On 5 June Mallory and Irvine were in Camp IV. Mallory spoke with Norton about his selection of Sandy Irvine as his climbing partner. Since Norton was the expedition leader after the illness of Bruce, and Mallory was the chief climber, he decided not to challenge Mallory's plan, in spite of Irvine's inexperience in high-altitude climbing. Irvine was not chosen primarily for his climbing abilities;<sup id="cite_ref-:1_12-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-12"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>12<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> rather, it was due to his practical skill with the oxygen equipment. Mallory and Irvine had also become fast friends since they shared a lot of time aboard ship to India, and Mallory considered the personable 22-year-old as "strong as an ox". </p><p>On 6 June, Mallory and Irvine departed for Camp V at 8:40 am with eight porters.<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 125">: 125 </span></sup> They carried the modified oxygen apparatus with two cylinders as well as a day's ration of food. Their load was estimated to be 25 lbs each. Odell took their picture, which would end up being the last close up picture taken of the pair alive.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_12-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-12"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>12<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The film <i>The Epic of Everest</i> captures a scene from that day of a party of ten people moving up the ridge, but at over two miles distance, only tiny figures can be seen.<sup id="cite_ref-:0_9-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-9"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> That evening shortly after 5 pm, four of the porters returned from Camp V with a note from Mallory which said, "There is no wind here, and things look hopeful."<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 125">: 125 </span></sup> </p><p> On 7 June, Odell and Nema, a porter, went to Camp V to support the summit team.<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 125">: 125 </span></sup> On the trip to Camp V, Odell picked up an oxygen-breathing set which had been abandoned by Irvine on the ridge only to discover that it was missing its mouthpiece.<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 126">: 126 </span></sup> Odell carried it up to Camp V in hopes of finding an extra mouthpiece there but did not find one.<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 126">: 126 </span></sup> Shortly after Odell arrived in Camp V, the four remaining porters who had assisted Mallory and Irvine returned from Camp VI. The porters gave Odell the following message:</p><blockquote><p>Dear Odell,---</p></blockquote><blockquote><p>We're awfully sorry to have left things in such a mess – our Unna Cooker rolled down the slope at the last moment. Be sure of getting back to IV to-morrow in time to evacuate before dark, as I hope to. In the tent I must have left a compass – for the Lord's sake rescue it: we are without. To here on 90 atmospheres for two days – so we'll probably go on two cylinders – but it's a bloody load for climbing. Perfect weather for the job! </p></blockquote><blockquote><p>Yours ever,</p></blockquote><blockquote><p>G Mallory<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 126">: 126 </span></sup><sup id="cite_ref-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-13"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>13<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></p></blockquote> <p>Another message carried by the porters read: </p> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1244412712">.mw-parser-output .templatequote{overflow:hidden;margin:1em 0;padding:0 32px}.mw-parser-output .templatequotecite{line-height:1.5em;text-align:left;margin-top:0}@media(min-width:500px){.mw-parser-output .templatequotecite{padding-left:1.6em}}</style><blockquote class="templatequote"><div class="poem"> <p>Dear Noel,<br /> We'll probably start early to-morrow (8th) to have clear weather. It won't be too early to start looking out for us either crossing the rockband under the pyramid or going up skyline at 8.0 p.m.<br /> Yours ever<br /> G Mallory </p> </div></blockquote> <p>(Mallory really meant 8<span class="nowrap"> </span>a.m., not 8<span class="nowrap"> </span>p.m.)<sup id="cite_ref-MalGeh_4-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-MalGeh-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-InTod_14-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-InTod-14"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>14<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Mallory referred to the climbers by their last names, thus, his letter to Odell starts, "Dear Odell" (Odell's first name is Noel), while his letter to John Noel starts "Dear Noel."<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 126">: 126 </span></sup> Nema was getting sick and Odell dispatched him and the remaining four porters back to Camp IV with a letter to Hazzard.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_12-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-12"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>12<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>John Noel received the letter and understood the mistake between "p.m." and "a.m.".<sup id="cite_ref-:2_15-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-15"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>15<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> He also knew the location Mallory was referring to, as he and Mallory had discussed it previously, and both the "skyline" and the "rockband" could be seen at the same time through the camera.<sup id="cite_ref-:0_9-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:0-9"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 1:11:53">: 1:11:53 </span></sup> </p><p>On 8 June, John Noel and two porters were at the photographic lookout point above Camp III (Advanced Base Camp) at 8<span class="nowrap"> </span>a.m. looking for the climbers. They took turns with a telescope, and if anything were seen, Noel would turn the camera on—which was already focused upon the agreed spot. They did not spot anyone and could see the summit ridge until 10<span class="nowrap"> </span>a.m. when clouds blocked the view.<sup id="cite_ref-:2_15-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:2-15"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>15<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>On the morning of 8 June, Odell awoke at 6:00 am, reporting that the night was largely free of wind and that he slept well.<sup id="cite_ref-Norton1924_1-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup class="reference nowrap"><span title="Page / location: 128">: 128 </span></sup> At 8:00 am, Odell started an ascent to Camp VI to make geological studies and to support Mallory and Irvine.<sup id="cite_ref-:1_12-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:1-12"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>12<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The mountain was swept by mists so he could not see the NE Ridge clearly along which Mallory and Irvine intended to climb. At 7900m (26,000-ft) he climbed over a small outcropping. At 12:50, the mists suddenly cleared. Odell noted in his diary, "saw M & I on the ridge, nearing base of final pyramide".<sup id="cite_ref-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-16"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>16<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In a first report on 5 July to <i><a href="/wiki/The_Times" title="The Times">The Times</a></i> he clarified this view. Odell was excited about having found the first fossils on Everest when there was a clearing in the weather and he saw the summit ridge and final pyramid of Everest. His eyes caught a tiny black dot which moved on a small snowcrest beneath a rock-step on the ridge. A second black dot was moving toward the first one. The first dot reached the crest of the ridge ("broke skyline"). He could not be certain if the second dot also did so.<sup id="cite_ref-17" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-17"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>17<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Odell's initial description, as published in The Times (‘…the place on the ridge mentioned is a prominent rock step, at a very short distance from the base of the final pyramid…’) can only be a reference to what is now known as the Third Step. But when the expedition leader, Norton, wrote his official history the following year it had been changed, and now referred to the two climbers reaching the base of the Second Step instead.<sup id="cite_ref-18" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-18"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>18<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> He was concerned because Mallory and Irvine seemed to be five hours behind their schedule. After this sighting, Odell continued on to Camp VI where he found the tent in chaotic disorder. At 2 p.m. an intense snow squall began. Odell went out in the squall hoping to signal the two climbers who he believed would by now be descending. He whistled and shouted, hoping to lead them back to the tent, but gave up because of the intense cold. Odell holed up in C-VI until the squall ended at 4<span class="nowrap"> </span>pm. He then scanned the mountain for Mallory and Irvine but saw no one. </p><p>Because the single C-VI tent could only sleep two, Mallory had advised Odell to leave Camp VI and return to Camp IV on the North Col. Odell left C-VI at 4:30 p.m. arrived at C-IV at 6:45 p.m. As they had not seen any sign from Mallory and Irvine then or the next day, Odell again climbed up the mountain together with two porters. Around 3:30 p.m., they arrived at Camp V and stayed for the night. The following day Odell again went alone to Camp VI which he found unchanged. He then climbed up to around 8200m but could not see any trace of the two missing climbers. In Camp VI he laid 6 blankets in a cross on the snow which was the signal for "No trace can be found, Given up hope, Awaiting orders" to the advanced base camp. Odell climbed down to Camp IV. In the morning of 11 June they started to leave the mountain by climbing down the icy slopes of north col to end the expedition. Five days later they said goodbye to the Lama at Rongbuk Monastery.<sup id="cite_ref-MalGeh_4-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-MalGeh-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-GeoJou_5-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-GeoJou-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="After_the_expedition">After the expedition</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=11" title="Edit section: After the expedition"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The expedition participants erected a memorial <a href="/wiki/Cairn" title="Cairn">cairn</a> in honour of the men who had died in the 1920s on Mount Everest. Mallory and Irvine became national heroes. <a href="/wiki/Magdalene_College,_Cambridge" title="Magdalene College, Cambridge">Magdalene College</a>, one of the constituent colleges of the <a href="/wiki/University_of_Cambridge" title="University of Cambridge">University of Cambridge</a>, where Mallory had studied, erected a memorial stone in one of its courts – a court renamed for Mallory. The <a href="/wiki/University_of_Oxford" title="University of Oxford">University of Oxford</a>, where Irvine studied, erected a memorial stone in his memory. In <a href="/wiki/St_Paul%27s_Cathedral" title="St Paul's Cathedral">St Paul's Cathedral</a> a ceremony took place which was attended by King <a href="/wiki/George_V" title="George V">George V</a> and other dignitaries, as well as the families and friends of the climbers. </p><p>The official film of the expedition <i><a href="/wiki/The_Epic_of_Everest" title="The Epic of Everest">The Epic of Everest</a></i>, produced by John Noel, caused a diplomatic controversy later known as the <a href="/wiki/Affair_of_the_Dancing_Lamas" title="Affair of the Dancing Lamas">Affair of the Dancing Lamas</a>. A group of monks was taken clandestinely from Tibet to perform a song and dance act before each showing of the film. This greatly offended the Tibetan authorities. Because of this and various unauthorised activities during the expedition, the Dalai Lama did not allow access for further expeditions until 1933.<sup id="cite_ref-19" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-19"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>19<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Odell's_sighting_of_Mallory_and_Irvine"><span id="Odell.27s_sighting_of_Mallory_and_Irvine"></span>Odell's sighting of Mallory and Irvine</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=12" title="Edit section: Odell's sighting of Mallory and Irvine"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>The opinion of the Everest climbing community began to challenge the location Odell claimed to have seen the two climbers. Many thought the <a href="/wiki/Second_Step" class="mw-redirect" title="Second Step">Second Step</a>, if not unclimbable, was at least not climbable in the five minutes Odell says he saw one of the two surmount it. Based on their position, both Odell and Norton believed that Mallory and Irvine had made it to the summit, with Odell sharing this belief with the newspapers after the expedition.<sup id="cite_ref-:3_20-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:3-20"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>20<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The expedition report was presented to <a href="/wiki/Martin_Conway,_1st_Baron_Conway_of_Allington" title="Martin Conway, 1st Baron Conway of Allington">Martin Conway</a>, a prominent politician and mountaineer, who expressed the opinion that the summit had been reached.<sup id="cite_ref-:4_21-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:4-21"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Conway's opinion was based on their location on the mountain and Mallory's exceptional mountaineering skill.<sup id="cite_ref-:4_21-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-:4-21"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Under social pressure from the climbing community Odell varied his opinion on several occasions as to the very spot where he had seen the two black dots. Most climbers believe he must have seen them climbing the far easier First Step. In the expedition report he wrote that the climbers were on the second-to-last step below the summit pyramid, indicating the famous and more difficult Second Step. Odell's account of the weather situation also varied. At first, he described that he could see the whole ridge and the summit. Later, he said that only a part of the ridge was free of mist. After viewing photographs of the 1933 expedition, Odell again said that he might have seen the two climbers at the Second Step.<sup id="cite_ref-MalGeh_4-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-MalGeh-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Shortly before his death in 1987, he admitted that since 1924 he had never been clear about the exact location along the northeast ridge where he had seen the black dots.<sup id="cite_ref-22" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-22"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>22<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>A recent theory suggests the two climbers were cresting the First Step after they had given up their climb and were already on the descent.<sup id="cite_ref-Holzel_23-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Holzel-23"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>23<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> They scrambled up the small hillock to take photographs of the remaining route, much as the French did in 1981, when they too were blocked from further progress. As to which step they were seen on, <a href="/wiki/Conrad_Anker" title="Conrad Anker">Conrad Anker</a> has stated that "it's hard to say because Odell was looking at it obliquely ... you're at altitude, the clouds were coming in" but that he believes "they were probably in the vicinity of the First Step when they turned back, because the First Step itself is very challenging and the Second Step is more challenging.... [T]o put them where they might have fallen in the evening and where Mallory's body is resting, because it's a traversing route, he couldn't have fallen off either the First or Second Step and ended up where he was at, they were well to the East of that descending the Yellow Band".<sup id="cite_ref-24" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-24"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>24<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Findings">Findings</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=13" title="Edit section: Findings"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-halign-right" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:North_face_marked.png" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/43/North_face_marked.png/400px-North_face_marked.png" decoding="async" width="400" height="300" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/43/North_face_marked.png/600px-North_face_marked.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/43/North_face_marked.png 2x" data-file-width="720" data-file-height="540" /></a><figcaption>North face of Mount Everest, routes and important spots.<br /> <table class="wikitable"> <tbody><tr> <td width="80" height="15" align="center" valign="bottom">Green line </td> <td width="700" valign="bottom">Normal route, mainly the Mallory route 1924, with high camps at 7700 and 8300 m, the current camp at 8300 m is a little bit west (2 triangles) </td></tr> <tr> <td height="15" align="center" valign="bottom">Red line </td> <td valign="bottom">Great Couloir or Norton Couloir </td></tr> <tr> <td height="15" align="center" valign="bottom">†1 </td> <td valign="bottom">Mallory found 1999 </td></tr> <tr> <td height="15" align="center" valign="bottom">? </td> <td valign="bottom">2nd step, foot at 8605m, height ca. 30 m, difficulty <a href="/wiki/Yosemite_Decimal_System" title="Yosemite Decimal System">5.9</a> or 5.10 </td></tr> <tr> <td height="15" align="center" valign="bottom">a) </td> <td valign="bottom">spot at ca. 8321 m which was <a href="/wiki/George_Ingle_Finch" class="mw-redirect" title="George Ingle Finch">George Ingle Finch</a>'s highest point with oxygen, 1922 </td></tr> <tr> <td height="15" align="center" valign="bottom">b) </td> <td valign="bottom">spot at 8,572.8 m at the western border of the couloir which Edward Felix Norton reached in 1924 without supplemental oxygen </td></tr></tbody></table></figcaption></figure> <figure class="mw-halign-right" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Kangshung-06.PNG" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/93/Kangshung-06.PNG/400px-Kangshung-06.PNG" decoding="async" width="400" height="263" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/93/Kangshung-06.PNG/600px-Kangshung-06.PNG 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/93/Kangshung-06.PNG/800px-Kangshung-06.PNG 2x" data-file-width="1157" data-file-height="761" /></a><figcaption>Kangshung face, Mount Everest from east. The typical route north, which is largely identical to the climb of Mallory and Irvine, is marked in green.</figcaption></figure> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1224211176">.mw-parser-output .quotebox{background-color:#F9F9F9;border:1px solid #aaa;box-sizing:border-box;padding:10px;font-size:88%;max-width:100%}.mw-parser-output .quotebox.floatleft{margin:.5em 1.4em .8em 0}.mw-parser-output .quotebox.floatright{margin:.5em 0 .8em 1.4em}.mw-parser-output .quotebox.centered{overflow:hidden;position:relative;margin:.5em auto .8em auto}.mw-parser-output .quotebox.floatleft span,.mw-parser-output .quotebox.floatright span{font-style:inherit}.mw-parser-output .quotebox>blockquote{margin:0;padding:0;border-left:0;font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit}.mw-parser-output .quotebox-title{text-align:center;font-size:110%;font-weight:bold}.mw-parser-output .quotebox-quote>:first-child{margin-top:0}.mw-parser-output .quotebox-quote:last-child>:last-child{margin-bottom:0}.mw-parser-output .quotebox-quote.quoted:before{font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;font-weight:bold;font-size:large;color:gray;content:" “ ";vertical-align:-45%;line-height:0}.mw-parser-output .quotebox-quote.quoted:after{font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;font-weight:bold;font-size:large;color:gray;content:" ” ";line-height:0}.mw-parser-output .quotebox .left-aligned{text-align:left}.mw-parser-output .quotebox .right-aligned{text-align:right}.mw-parser-output .quotebox .center-aligned{text-align:center}.mw-parser-output .quotebox .quote-title,.mw-parser-output .quotebox .quotebox-quote{display:block}.mw-parser-output .quotebox cite{display:block;font-style:normal}@media screen and (max-width:640px){.mw-parser-output .quotebox{width:100%!important;margin:0 0 .8em!important;float:none!important}}</style><div class="quotebox pullquote floatright" style="width:40%; ;"> <blockquote class="quotebox-quote left-aligned" style=""> <p>"Since my search for the two Oxford fellows, I feel convinced that it marks the scene of an accident to Mallory and Irvine. There is something else ... it's not to be written about, as the press would make an unpleasant sensation. I was scanning the face from the Base camp through a high-power telescope last year[1936] when I saw something queer in a gully below the scree shelf ... it was a long way away and very small ... but I've a <a href="/wiki/Visual_acuity" title="Visual acuity">six/six</a> eyesight, and I do not believe it was a rock ... when searching for the Oxford men on <a href="/wiki/Mont_Blanc" title="Mont Blanc">Mont Blanc</a>, we looked down onto a boulder-strewn <a href="/wiki/Glacier" title="Glacier">glacier</a> and saw something which wasn't a rock either—it proved to be two bodies. The object was at precisely the point where Mallory and Irvine would have fallen had they rolled on over the scree slopes below the yellow band. I think it is highly probable that we shall find further evidence next year." </p> </blockquote> <div style="padding-bottom: 0; padding-top: 0.5em"><cite class="left-aligned" style="">     — Frank Smythe, in a letter to Edward Norton, 4 September 1937.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTESmythe2013215–216_&_305_25-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTESmythe2013215–216_&_305-25"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>25<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130_&_290_notes_of_chapter_10,_no._10_26-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130_&_290_notes_of_chapter_10,_no._10-26"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>26<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></cite></div> </div> <p>Odell discovered the first evidence which might reveal something about the climb of Mallory and Irvine among the equipment in camps V and VI. In addition to Mallory's compass, which normally was a critical component for climbing activities, he discovered some oxygen bottles and spare parts. This situation suggests the possibility that there had been a problem with the oxygen equipment which might have caused a delayed start in the morning. A hand-generator electric lamp also remained in the tent – it was still in working order when it was found by the Ruttledge expedition nine years later. </p><p>During the 1933 British Mount Everest expedition, <a href="/wiki/Percy_Wyn-Harris" title="Percy Wyn-Harris">Percy Wyn-Harris</a> found the <a href="/wiki/Ice_axe" title="Ice axe">ice axe</a> of Irvine some 250 yards (230 metres) east of the First Step and 60 feet (20 metres) below the ridge. This location raises additional questions. The area is a 30-degree slab of rock with loose pebbles, according to Wyn-Harris. Expedition leader Hugh Ruttledge said: "We have naturally paid close attention to the problem. Firstly, it seems probable that the axe marked the scene of a fatal accident. For reasons already given, neither climber would be likely to abandon it deliberately on the slabs...its presence there would seem to indicate that it was accidentally dropped when a slip occurred or that its owner put it down in order to have both hands free to hold the rope".<sup id="cite_ref-27" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-27"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>In 1937, <a href="/wiki/Frank_Smythe" title="Frank Smythe">Frank Smythe</a> wrote to Edward Norton in reply to Norton's approbation of Smythe's book <a href="/wiki/Frank_Smythe#Bibliography" title="Frank Smythe"><i>Camp Six</i></a>, an account of the 1933 expedition.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130_&_290_notes_of_chapter_10,_no._10_26-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130_&_290_notes_of_chapter_10,_no._10-26"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>26<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Noted in his letter was the discovery of the ice axe in 1933 found below the crest of the Northeast Ridge, where Smythe felt certain it marked the scene of an accident to Mallory and Irvine.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTESmythe2013215–216_28-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTESmythe2013215–216-28"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>28<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130_29-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130-29"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Smythe disclosed that during the <a href="/wiki/1936_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1936 British Mount Everest expedition">1936 British Mount Everest expedition</a>, he scanned Everest's <a href="/wiki/North_Face_(Everest)" title="North Face (Everest)">North Face</a> with a high-powered <a href="/wiki/Telescope" title="Telescope">telescope</a> from Base Camp and spotted an object, which he presumed was the body of either Mallory or Irvine and it was not to be written about because he feared press <a href="/wiki/Sensationalism" title="Sensationalism">sensationalism</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTESmythe201311_&_215–216_30-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTESmythe201311_&_215–216-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>30<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130_29-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130-29"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>On the second summit climb of the Chinese in 1975, the Chinese mountaineer Wang Hongbao saw an "English dead" (body) at 8,100 m (26,575 ft). This news was officially denied by the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA), but this report to a Japanese climber, who passed it on to Tom Holzel led to the first <a href="/wiki/Mallory_and_Irvine_Research_Expedition" title="Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition">Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition</a> in 1986, which was unsuccessful due to bad weather. </p><p>In 1999, a new search expedition was mounted, founded by German Everest researcher Jochen Hemmleb, and led by Eric Simonson. Simonson had seen some very old oxygen bottles near the First Step during his first summit climb in 1991. One of these bottles was again found in 1999 and was one belonging to Mallory and Irvine, thus proving the two climbed at least as high as shortly below the First Step. Their location also suggests a climbing speed of approximately 275 vert-ft/hr, good time for the altitude and an indication the oxygen systems were working perfectly. The expedition also tried to reproduce Odell's position when he had seen Mallory and Irvine. The mountaineer Andy Politz later reported that they could clearly identify each of the three steps without any problems. During their meeting, the deputy leader of the expedition, <a href="/wiki/Xu_Jing_(mountaineer)" title="Xu Jing (mountaineer)">Xu Jing</a>, said that on his descent from the <a href="/wiki/Three_Steps" title="Three Steps">First Step</a>, he spotted a dead climber lying on his back, feet facing uphill, in a hollow or slot in the rock. Since no one other than Mallory and Irvine had ever been lost on the north side of Everest before 1960, and Mallory had been found much lower down, it was almost a certainty that Xu had discovered Irvine. However, the sighting was brief, and Xu was in desperate straits during the descent, and while he clearly remembered seeing the body, he was unclear about where it was.<sup id="cite_ref-Hellen_31-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Hellen-31"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>31<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-32" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-32"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-33" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>33<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>The most remarkable finding was the corpse of George Leigh Mallory at a height of 8,159 metres (26,768 ft). The lack of extreme injuries indicated he had not tumbled very far. His waist showed severe rope-jerk mottling, showing the two had been roped when they fell. Mallory's injuries were such that a walking descent was impossible: his right foot was nearly broken off and there was a golf ball-sized puncture wound in his forehead. His unbroken leg was on top of the broken one, as if to protect it. General Hospital neurosurgeon Dr. Elliot Schwamm believes it not possible that he would have been conscious after the forehead injury. There was no oxygen equipment near the body, but the oxygen bottles would have been empty by that time and discarded at a higher altitude to relinquish the heavy load. Mallory was not wearing snow goggles, although a pair was stored in his vest, which may indicate that he was on the way back by night. However, a contemporary photograph shows he had two sets of goggles when he started his summit climb. The image of his wife Ruth which he intended to put on the summit was not in his vest. He carried the picture throughout the whole expedition—a sign that he might have reached the top. Since his Kodak pocket camera was not found, there is no proof of a successful climb to the summit.<sup id="cite_ref-MalGeh_4-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-MalGeh-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-InTod_14-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-InTod-14"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>14<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>In September 2024, a National Geographic documentary team that included the photographer and director <a href="/wiki/Jimmy_Chin" title="Jimmy Chin">Jimmy Chin</a>, along with filmmakers and climbers Erich Roepke and Mark Fisher were descending the Central Rongbuk Glacier when they found an oxygen bottle marked with a date 1933. This artifact aroused their curiosity. Chin mentioned to Erich Roepke that if Andrew Comyn Irvine, or Sandy, as he was known, had fallen down the north face, his remains or his body could be nearby. The team speculated that if an oxygen canister had fallen off the mountain, “it probably fell down quite a bit farther than a body—more like a missile.”  Chin suspected that Irvine's remains could potentially be a few hundred yards up the glacier. In the following days, Chin and his team began taking a circuitous route across the folds and crevasses of the glacier. Erich then spotted a boot emerging from the ice.<sup id="cite_ref-auto_3-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-auto-3"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>3<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The remains were found at the Central Rongbuk Glacier which is at an altitude at least 7,000 feet lower than where Mallory's body was discovered.<sup id="cite_ref-34" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-34"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> A sock, with "A. C. Irvine" on a <a href="/wiki/Name_tag#Name_labels" title="Name tag">name tape</a>, was found along with a boot and a foot, emerging from the ice.<sup id="cite_ref-35" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-35"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>35<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-36" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-36"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>36<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The cameras remain missing.<sup id="cite_ref-37" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-37"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>37<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="First_ascent_speculation">First ascent speculation</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=14" title="Edit section: First ascent speculation"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Since 1924, there have been supporting claims and rumours that Mallory and Irvine had been successful and so were actually the first to reach the summit of Mount Everest.<sup id="cite_ref-38" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-38"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>38<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> One counter argument claims that their fleece, vests and trousers were of too poor a quality. In 2006, <a href="/wiki/Graham_Hoyland" title="Graham Hoyland">Graham Hoyland</a> climbed to 21,000 feet (6,400 m) in an exact reproduction of Mallory's original clothing for a field test. He stated in <i>Alpine Journal</i> that it functioned very well and was quite comfortable.<sup id="cite_ref-39" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-39"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>39<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Performance Clothing Research Centre at the University of Leeds tested the reproduced outfit thoroughly and "concluded that Mallory was sufficiently well insulated to operate effectively on Everest, provided he was moving and not forced to bivouac".<sup id="cite_ref-40" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-40"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>40<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Human thermo-regulation expert George Havenith of <a href="/wiki/Loughborough_University" title="Loughborough University">Loughborough University</a> (UK), has tested a rigorously accurate recreation of Mallory's clothing in a weather chamber. He concludes that the clothing is sufficient to −30 °C (−22 °F), though "If the wind speed had picked up, a common feature of weather on Everest, the insulation of the clothing would only just be sufficient to −10 °C (14 °F). Mallory would not have survived any deterioration in conditions."<sup id="cite_ref-41" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-41"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>41<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Odell's sighting is of especially high interest. The description of Odell's sighting and the current knowledge indicate Mallory's 5-minute surmounting of the Second Step is unlikely. This wall cannot be climbed as fast as described by Odell. Only the first and the third step can be climbed quickly. Odell said that they were at the foot of the summit pyramid, which contradicts a location at the First Step, but it is unlikely the pair could have started early enough to reach the Third Step by 12:50 pm. Since the First Step is far away from the Third Step, confusing them is also not likely. One suggestion proposes that Odell confused a sighting of birds for climbers, as occurred with <a href="/wiki/Eric_Shipton" title="Eric Shipton">Eric Shipton</a> in <a href="/wiki/1933_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1933 British Mount Everest expedition">1933</a>. </p><p>This speculation also involves theories concerning whether Mallory and Irvine could have managed to climb the Second Step. <a href="/wiki/%C3%92scar_Cadiach" title="Òscar Cadiach">Òscar Cadiach</a> was the first to climb it in 1985 <a href="/wiki/Free_climbing" title="Free climbing">free</a> and <a href="/wiki/Grade_(climbing)" title="Grade (climbing)">rated</a> it V+. <a href="/wiki/Conrad_Anker" title="Conrad Anker">Conrad Anker</a> led an experiment to <a href="/wiki/Free_climb" class="mw-redirect" title="Free climb">free climb</a> this section without using the "Chinese ladder" for assistance, since that equipment was not installed in 1924. In 1999, he did not manage a complete free climb as he put one foot briefly on the ladder when it blocked the only available foothold. At that time he rated the difficulty of the Second Step as 5.10—well outside of Mallory's capability. In June 2007, Anker returned as a member of the <a href="/wiki/Altitude_Everest_Expedition_2007" class="mw-redirect" title="Altitude Everest Expedition 2007">Altitude Everest Expedition 2007</a>, and with Leo Houlding successfully free-climbed the Second Step, after removing the "Chinese ladder" (which was later replaced).<sup id="cite_ref-reuters2007_42-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-reuters2007-42"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>42<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Houlding rated the climb at 5.9, just within Mallory's estimated capabilities. Theo Fritsche climbed the step free solo on-sight in 2001 and rated it V+.<sup id="cite_ref-43" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-43"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>43<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>An argument against the possible summit claim is the long distance from high camp VI to the summit. It is normally not possible to reach the summit before dark after starting in daylight. It was not until 1990 that <a href="/wiki/Ed_Viesturs" title="Ed Viesturs">Ed Viesturs</a> was able to reach the top from an equivalent distance as Mallory and Irvine planned. In addition, Viesturs knew the route, while for Mallory and Irvine it was completely unknown territory. Finally, Irvine was not an experienced climber and it is considered unlikely that Mallory had put his friend into such danger or would have aimed for the summit without calculating the risks. </p><p>Despite the discovery of Mallory's body in 1999, how and where exactly the two climbers lost their lives is still unknown.<sup id="cite_ref-MalGeh_4-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-MalGeh-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> </p><p>Modern climbers who take a very similar route start their summit bid from high camp at 8,300 m (27,230 ft) around midnight to avoid the risk of a second night on the descent or a highly risky <a href="/wiki/Bivouac_shelter" title="Bivouac shelter">bivouac</a> without the protection of a tent. They also use <a href="/wiki/Headlamp_(outdoor)" title="Headlamp (outdoor)">headlamps</a> during the dark, a technology which was not used by the early British climbers. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="See_also">See also</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=15" title="Edit section: See also"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/1922_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1922 British Mount Everest expedition">1922 British Mount Everest expedition</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Timeline_of_Mount_Everest_expeditions" title="Timeline of Mount Everest expeditions">Timeline of Mount Everest expeditions</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/List_of_20th-century_summiters_of_Mount_Everest" title="List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest">List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest</a></li></ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Bibliography">Bibliography</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=16" title="Edit section: Bibliography"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <ul><li><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1238218222">.mw-parser-output cite.citation{font-style:inherit;word-wrap:break-word}.mw-parser-output .citation q{quotes:"\"""\"""'""'"}.mw-parser-output .citation:target{background-color:rgba(0,127,255,0.133)}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-free.id-lock-free a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/65/Lock-green.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited.id-lock-limited a,.mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration.id-lock-registration a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d6/Lock-gray-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription.id-lock-subscription a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/aa/Lock-red-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4c/Wikisource-logo.svg")right 0.1em center/12px no-repeat}body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-free a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background-size:contain;padding:0 1em 0 0}.mw-parser-output .cs1-code{color:inherit;background:inherit;border:none;padding:inherit}.mw-parser-output .cs1-hidden-error{display:none;color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-visible-error{color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{display:none;color:#085;margin-left:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-left{padding-left:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-right{padding-right:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .citation .mw-selflink{font-weight:inherit}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .cs1-format{font-size:95%}html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}</style><cite id="CITEREFBreashearsSalkeld2000" class="citation book cs1">Breashears, David; Salkeld, Audrey (2000). <i>Mallorys Geheimnis. Was geschah am Mount Everest?</i>. Steiger. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/3-89652-220-5" title="Special:BookSources/3-89652-220-5"><bdi>3-89652-220-5</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Mallorys+Geheimnis.+Was+geschah+am+Mount+Everest%3F&rft.pub=Steiger&rft.date=2000&rft.isbn=3-89652-220-5&rft.aulast=Breashears&rft.aufirst=David&rft.au=Salkeld%2C+Audrey&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFHemmleb,_JochenJohnson,_Larry_A.Simonson,_Eric_R.2001" class="citation book cs1">Hemmleb, Jochen; Johnson, Larry A.; Simonson, Eric R. (2001). <i>Die Geister des Mount Everest: Die Suche nach Mallory und Irvine</i>. Frederking u. Thaler. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/3-89405-108-6" title="Special:BookSources/3-89405-108-6"><bdi>3-89405-108-6</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Die+Geister+des+Mount+Everest%3A+Die+Suche+nach+Mallory+und+Irvine&rft.pub=Frederking+u.+Thaler&rft.date=2001&rft.isbn=3-89405-108-6&rft.au=Hemmleb%2C+Jochen&rft.au=Johnson%2C+Larry+A.&rft.au=Simonson%2C+Eric+R.&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFHemmlebSimonson,_Eric2002" class="citation book cs1">Hemmleb, Jochen; Simonson, Eric (2002). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/detectivesonever0000hemm"><i>Detectives on Everest. The Story of the 2001 Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition</i></a> (1st ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers Books. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-89886-871-8" title="Special:BookSources/0-89886-871-8"><bdi>0-89886-871-8</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Detectives+on+Everest.+The+Story+of+the+2001+Mallory+%26+Irvine+Research+Expedition&rft.place=Seattle&rft.edition=1st&rft.pub=The+Mountaineers+Books&rft.date=2002&rft.isbn=0-89886-871-8&rft.aulast=Hemmleb&rft.aufirst=Jochen&rft.au=Simonson%2C+Eric&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Farchive.org%2Fdetails%2Fdetectivesonever0000hemm&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFHolzel,_TomSalkeld,_Audrey1999" class="citation book cs1">Holzel, Tom; Salkeld, Audrey (1999). <i>In der Todeszone. Das Geheimnis um George Mallory und die Erstbesteigung des Mount Everest</i>. Goldmann Wilhelm GmbH. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/3-442-15076-0" title="Special:BookSources/3-442-15076-0"><bdi>3-442-15076-0</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=In+der+Todeszone.+Das+Geheimnis+um+George+Mallory+und+die+Erstbesteigung+des+Mount+Everest&rft.pub=Goldmann+Wilhelm+GmbH&rft.date=1999&rft.isbn=3-442-15076-0&rft.au=Holzel%2C+Tom&rft.au=Salkeld%2C+Audrey&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></li> <li>Holzel, Tom and Salkeld, Audrey, co-authors (1996) <i>First on Everest: The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine</i>. New York: 1996 Henry Holt & Co. <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8050-0303-7" title="Special:BookSources/0-8050-0303-7">0-8050-0303-7</a></li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFHoyland2014" class="citation book cs1">Hoyland, Graham (2014). <span class="id-lock-registration" title="Free registration required"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/lasthoursonevere0000hoyl_z4b4"><i>Last Hours on Everest: The Gripping Story of Mallory & Irvine's Fatal Ascent</i></a></span>. Glasgow, UK: <a href="/wiki/William_Collins,_Sons" title="William Collins, Sons">William Collins</a>, an imprint of <a href="/wiki/HarperCollins" title="HarperCollins">HarperCollins</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-00-745574-4" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-00-745574-4"><bdi>978-0-00-745574-4</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Last+Hours+on+Everest%3A+The+Gripping+Story+of+Mallory+%26+Irvine%27s+Fatal+Ascent&rft.place=Glasgow%2C+UK&rft.pub=William+Collins%2C+an+imprint+of+HarperCollins&rft.date=2014&rft.isbn=978-0-00-745574-4&rft.aulast=Hoyland&rft.aufirst=Graham&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Farchive.org%2Fdetails%2Flasthoursonevere0000hoyl_z4b4&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFNorton2000" class="citation book cs1">Norton, Edward Felix (2000). <i>Bis zur Spitze des Mount Everest - Die Besteigung 1924</i>. Translated by Willi Rickmer Rickmers. Berlin: Sport Verlag. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/3-328-00872-1" title="Special:BookSources/3-328-00872-1"><bdi>3-328-00872-1</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Bis+zur+Spitze+des+Mount+Everest+-+Die+Besteigung+1924&rft.place=Berlin&rft.pub=Sport+Verlag&rft.date=2000&rft.isbn=3-328-00872-1&rft.aulast=Norton&rft.aufirst=Edward+Felix&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFUnsworth2000" class="citation book cs1">Unsworth, Walt (2000). <i>Everest - The Mountaineering History</i> (3rd ed.). Bâton Wicks. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-898573-40-1" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-898573-40-1"><bdi>978-1-898573-40-1</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Everest+-+The+Mountaineering+History&rft.edition=3rd&rft.pub=B%C3%A2ton+Wicks&rft.date=2000&rft.isbn=978-1-898573-40-1&rft.aulast=Unsworth&rft.aufirst=Walt&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></li> <li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFSmythe2013" class="citation book cs1">Smythe, Tony (2013). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=sfranQEACAAJ"><i>My Father, Frank: Unresting Spirit of Everest</i></a>. Foreword by <a href="/wiki/Doug_Scott" title="Doug Scott">Doug Scott</a> (1st ed.). Sheffield, UK: Bâton Wicks Publications. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-898573-87-6" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-898573-87-6"><bdi>978-1-898573-87-6</bdi></a>. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20230331164940/https://books.google.com/books?id=sfranQEACAAJ">Archived</a> from the original on 31 March 2023<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">31 March</span> 2023</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=My+Father%2C+Frank%3A+Unresting+Spirit+of+Everest&rft.place=Sheffield%2C+UK&rft.edition=1st&rft.pub=B%C3%A2ton+Wicks+Publications&rft.date=2013&rft.isbn=978-1-898573-87-6&rft.aulast=Smythe&rft.aufirst=Tony&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DsfranQEACAAJ&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></li></ul> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="References">References</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&action=edit&section=17" title="Edit section: References"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1239543626">.mw-parser-output .reflist{margin-bottom:0.5em;list-style-type:decimal}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .reflist{font-size:90%}}.mw-parser-output .reflist .references{font-size:100%;margin-bottom:0;list-style-type:inherit}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-2{column-width:30em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-3{column-width:25em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns{margin-top:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns ol{margin-top:0}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns li{page-break-inside:avoid;break-inside:avoid-column}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-alpha{list-style-type:upper-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-roman{list-style-type:upper-roman}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-alpha{list-style-type:lower-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-greek{list-style-type:lower-greek}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-roman{list-style-type:lower-roman}</style><div class="reflist"> <div class="mw-references-wrap mw-references-columns"><ol class="references"> <li id="cite_note-Norton1924-1"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-10"><sup><i><b>k</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-11"><sup><i><b>l</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-12"><sup><i><b>m</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-13"><sup><i><b>n</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-14"><sup><i><b>o</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-Norton1924_1-15"><sup><i><b>p</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFNorton1925" class="citation book cs1">Norton, E.F. (1925) [1924]. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://books.google.com/books?id=So_VAAAAMAAJ"><i>The Fight for Everest 1924</i></a>. New York: Longmans, Green & Company. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/81-7769-178-3" title="Special:BookSources/81-7769-178-3"><bdi>81-7769-178-3</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The+Fight+for+Everest+1924&rft.place=New+York&rft.pub=Longmans%2C+Green+%26+Company&rft.date=1925&rft.isbn=81-7769-178-3&rft.aulast=Norton&rft.aufirst=E.F.&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fbooks.google.com%2Fbooks%3Fid%3DSo_VAAAAMAAJ&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-2"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-2">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFHemmleb2002" class="citation book cs1">Hemmleb, Jochen (2002). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/detectivesonever0000hemm/page/11"><i>Detectives on Everest</i></a>. United States: The Mountaineers Books. pp. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/detectivesonever0000hemm/page/11">11</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-89886-871-8" title="Special:BookSources/0-89886-871-8"><bdi>0-89886-871-8</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Detectives+on+Everest&rft.place=United+States&rft.pages=11&rft.pub=The+Mountaineers+Books&rft.date=2002&rft.isbn=0-89886-871-8&rft.aulast=Hemmleb&rft.aufirst=Jochen&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Farchive.org%2Fdetails%2Fdetectivesonever0000hemm%2Fpage%2F11&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-auto-3"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-auto_3-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-auto_3-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/sandy-irvine-body-found-everest">"Remains of Sandy Irvine believed to have been found on Everest"</a>. <i>Adventure</i>. 11 October 2024<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">11 October</span> 2024</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=Adventure&rft.atitle=Remains+of+Sandy+Irvine+believed+to+have+been+found+on+Everest&rft.date=2024-10-11&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nationalgeographic.com%2Fadventure%2Farticle%2Fsandy-irvine-body-found-everest&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-MalGeh-4"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-MalGeh_4-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-MalGeh_4-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-MalGeh_4-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-MalGeh_4-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-MalGeh_4-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-MalGeh_4-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-MalGeh_4-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-MalGeh_4-7"><sup><i><b>h</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-MalGeh_4-8"><sup><i><b>i</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-MalGeh_4-9"><sup><i><b>j</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text">Breashears, Salkeld: Mallorys Geheimnis</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-GeoJou-5"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-GeoJou_5-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-GeoJou_5-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-GeoJou_5-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-GeoJou_5-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-GeoJou_5-4"><sup><i><b>e</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-GeoJou_5-5"><sup><i><b>f</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-GeoJou_5-6"><sup><i><b>g</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation journal cs1">"<i>The Mount Everest Expedition of 1924</i>". <i>The Geographical Journal</i>. <b>64</b> (6): 340. 1924. <a href="/wiki/Bibcode_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Bibcode (identifier)">Bibcode</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/1924GeogJ..63..340.">1924GeogJ..63..340.</a>. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.2307%2F1781412">10.2307/1781412</a>. <a href="/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="JSTOR (identifier)">JSTOR</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/1781916">1781916</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=The+Geographical+Journal&rft.atitle=The+Mount+Everest+Expedition+of+1924&rft.volume=64&rft.issue=6&rft.pages=340&rft.date=1924&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstor.org%2Fstable%2F1781916%23id-name%3DJSTOR&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.2307%2F1781412&rft_id=info%3Abibcode%2F1924GeogJ..63..340.&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-6"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-6">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation news cs1">"Treachery at the top of the World". <i><a href="/wiki/The_Advertiser_(Adelaide)" title="The Advertiser (Adelaide)">The Advertiser</a></i>. 21 February 2009. p. 3.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=The+Advertiser&rft.atitle=Treachery+at+the+top+of+the+World&rft.pages=3&rft.date=2009-02-21&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-7"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-7">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20110724225252/http://www.affimer.org/graphics/odell.jpg">"picture of Noel Odell"</a>. Archived from <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.affimer.org/graphics/odell.jpg">the original</a> <span class="cs1-format">(<a href="/wiki/JPEG" title="JPEG">JPEG</a>)</span> on 24 July 2011<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">28 March</span> 2009</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=unknown&rft.btitle=picture+of+Noel+Odell&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.affimer.org%2Fgraphics%2Fodell.jpg&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-8"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-8">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Bootham School Commemoration Scholarship Fund, 1879–1929, p. 24</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:0-9"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:0_9-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:0_9-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:0_9-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:0_9-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_M9b5t9tHBg">"The Epic of Everest (1924)"</a>. <i><a href="/wiki/YouTube" title="YouTube">YouTube</a></i>. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20170817013414/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_M9b5t9tHBg">Archived</a> from the original on 17 August 2017<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">16 April</span> 2017</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=YouTube&rft.atitle=The+Epic+of+Everest+%281924%29&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D_M9b5t9tHBg&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-10"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-10">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation news cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/viewer/bl/0000687/19240327/214/0008">"General Bruce's Cheery despatch"</a>. <i>Yorkshire Post and Leeds Intelligencer</i>. 27 March 1924. p. 8 – via <a href="/wiki/British_Newspaper_Archive" title="British Newspaper Archive">British Newspaper Archive</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Yorkshire+Post+and+Leeds+Intelligencer&rft.atitle=General+Bruce%27s+Cheery+despatch&rft.pages=8&rft.date=1924-03-27&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk%2Fviewer%2Fbl%2F0000687%2F19240327%2F214%2F0008&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-11"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-11">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Unsworth, pp. 289–290</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:1-12"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:1_12-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_12-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_12-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:1_12-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFBreashearsSalkeld1999" class="citation book cs1">Breashears, David; Salkeld, Audrey (1999). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/lastclimb00davi/page/172"><i>Last Climb: The Legendary Everest Expeditions of George Mallory</i></a>. Washington, DC: National Geographic Society. pp. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/lastclimb00davi/page/172">172–4</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7922-7538-1" title="Special:BookSources/0-7922-7538-1"><bdi>0-7922-7538-1</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Last+Climb%3A+The+Legendary+Everest+Expeditions+of+George+Mallory&rft.place=Washington%2C+DC&rft.pages=172-4&rft.pub=National+Geographic+Society&rft.date=1999&rft.isbn=0-7922-7538-1&rft.aulast=Breashears&rft.aufirst=David&rft.au=Salkeld%2C+Audrey&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Farchive.org%2Fdetails%2Flastclimb00davi%2Fpage%2F172&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-13"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-13">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://dalewrites.wordpress.com/2011/02/10/oxygen-use/">"Oxygen use"</a>. 10 February 2011. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20180319085058/https://dalewrites.wordpress.com/2011/02/10/oxygen-use/">Archived</a> from the original on 19 March 2018<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">7 May</span> 2017</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=unknown&rft.btitle=Oxygen+use&rft.date=2011-02-10&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fdalewrites.wordpress.com%2F2011%2F02%2F10%2Foxygen-use%2F&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-InTod-14"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-InTod_14-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-InTod_14-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text">Holzel, Salkeld: In der Todeszone</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:2-15"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:2_15-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:2_15-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFNoel1927" class="citation book cs1">Noel, J.B.L. (1927). <i>Through Tibet to Everest</i>. London: Edward Arnold & Co. pp. <span class="nowrap">261–</span>2.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Through+Tibet+to+Everest&rft.place=London&rft.pages=%3Cspan+class%3D%22nowrap%22%3E261-%3C%2Fspan%3E2&rft.pub=Edward+Arnold+%26+Co.&rft.date=1927&rft.aulast=Noel&rft.aufirst=J.B.L.&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-16"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-16">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFBreashearsSalkeld1999" class="citation book cs1">Breashears, David; Salkeld, Audrey (1999). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/lastclimb00davi/page/175"><i>Last Climb: The Legendary Everest Expeditions of George Mallory</i></a>. Washington, DC: National Geographic Society. pp. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/lastclimb00davi/page/175">175</a>. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7922-7538-1" title="Special:BookSources/0-7922-7538-1"><bdi>0-7922-7538-1</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Last+Climb%3A+The+Legendary+Everest+Expeditions+of+George+Mallory.&rft.place=Washington%2C+DC&rft.pages=175&rft.pub=National+Geographic+Society&rft.date=1999&rft.isbn=0-7922-7538-1&rft.aulast=Breashears&rft.aufirst=David&rft.au=Salkeld%2C+Audrey&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Farchive.org%2Fdetails%2Flastclimb00davi%2Fpage%2F175&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-17"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-17">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Breashears, Salkeld: Mallorys Geheimnis, page 174</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-18"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-18">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Norton: Bis zur Spitze des Mount Everest, page 124</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-19"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-19">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Unsworth, pp. 142–157</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:3-20"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-:3_20-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation news cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/viewer/bl/0000687/19240705/312/0012">"More Light on Everest Disaster"</a>. <i>Aberdeen Press and Journal</i>. 5 July 1924<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">15 April</span> 2017</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Aberdeen+Press+and+Journal&rft.atitle=More+Light+on+Everest+Disaster&rft.date=1924-07-05&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk%2Fviewer%2Fbl%2F0000687%2F19240705%2F312%2F0012&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-:4-21"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-:4_21-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-:4_21-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation news cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/viewer/bl/0001670/19240726/088/0005">"Mount Everest Expedition"</a>. <i>Warwick & Warwickshire Advertiser & Leamington Gazette</i>. 26 July 1924<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">15 April</span> 2017</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Warwick+%26+Warwickshire+Advertiser+%26+Leamington+Gazette&rft.atitle=Mount+Everest+Expedition&rft.date=1924-07-26&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk%2Fviewer%2Fbl%2F0001670%2F19240726%2F088%2F0005&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-22"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-22">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFBreashearsSalkeld1999" class="citation book cs1">Breashears, David; Salkeld, Audrey (1999). <span class="id-lock-registration" title="Free registration required"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/lastclimb00davi"><i>Last climb: the legendary Everest expeditions of George Mallory</i></a></span>. National Geographic Society. p. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/lastclimb00davi/page/203">203</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Last+climb%3A+the+legendary+Everest+expeditions+of+George+Mallory&rft.pages=203&rft.pub=National+Geographic+Society&rft.date=1999&rft.aulast=Breashears&rft.aufirst=David&rft.au=Salkeld%2C+Audrey&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Farchive.org%2Fdetails%2Flastclimb00davi&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-Holzel-23"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-Holzel_23-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFTom_Holzel2009" class="citation web cs1">Tom Holzel (18 April 2009). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20110717170303/http://www.velocitypress.com/CopyIrvine.shtml">"The Search for Andrew Irvine"</a>. Archived from <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.velocitypress.com/CopyIrvine.shtml">the original</a> on 17 July 2011<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">26 May</span> 2013</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=unknown&rft.btitle=The+Search+for+Andrew+Irvine&rft.date=2009-04-18&rft.au=Tom+Holzel&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.velocitypress.com%2FCopyIrvine.shtml&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-24"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-24">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFAnker,_Conrad2011" class="citation web cs1">Anker, Conrad (14 September 2011). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCE4Et78f_s&feature=player_detailpage#t=100s">"Conrad Anker on George Mallory (Part 5)"</a>. <i><a href="/wiki/YouTube" title="YouTube">YouTube</a></i>. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20140622085753/http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCE4Et78f_s&feature=player_detailpage#t=100s">Archived</a> from the original on 22 June 2014<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">26 May</span> 2013</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=YouTube&rft.atitle=Conrad+Anker+on+George+Mallory+%28Part+5%29&rft.date=2011-09-14&rft.au=Anker%2C+Conrad&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DoCE4Et78f_s%26feature%3Dplayer_detailpage%23t%3D100s&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTESmythe2013215–216_&_305-25"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTESmythe2013215–216_&_305_25-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFSmythe2013">Smythe 2013</a>, pp. 215–216 & 305.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130_&_290_notes_of_chapter_10,_no._10-26"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130_&_290_notes_of_chapter_10,_no._10_26-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130_&_290_notes_of_chapter_10,_no._10_26-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFHoyland2014">Hoyland 2014</a>, pp. 128–130 & 290 notes of chapter 10, no. 10.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-27"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-27">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Everest, 1933, p 145.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTESmythe2013215–216-28"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTESmythe2013215–216_28-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFSmythe2013">Smythe 2013</a>, pp. 215–216.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130-29"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130_29-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHoyland2014128–130_29-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFHoyland2014">Hoyland 2014</a>, pp. 128–130.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTESmythe201311_&_215–216-30"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTESmythe201311_&_215–216_30-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFSmythe2013">Smythe 2013</a>, pp. 11 & 215–216.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-Hellen-31"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-Hellen_31-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFHellen2024" class="citation web cs1">Hellen, Nicholas (9 August 2024). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.thetimes.com/article/body-may-prove-who-was-first-up-everest-mfj8bdzlk8l">"Body may prove who was first up Everest"</a>. <i>www.thetimes.com</i>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=www.thetimes.com&rft.atitle=Body+may+prove+who+was+first+up+Everest&rft.date=2024-08-09&rft.aulast=Hellen&rft.aufirst=Nicholas&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thetimes.com%2Farticle%2Fbody-may-prove-who-was-first-up-everest-mfj8bdzlk8l&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-32"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-32">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.affimer.org/hemmleb9.html">"Jochen Hemmleb: Was Andrew Irvine Found in 1960?"</a>. Affimer.org<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">11 February</span> 2012</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=unknown&rft.btitle=Jochen+Hemmleb%3A+Was+Andrew+Irvine+Found+in+1960%3F&rft.pub=Affimer.org&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.affimer.org%2Fhemmleb9.html&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-33"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-33">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.everestnews2004.com/malloryandirvine2004/stories2004/xijing12142004.htm">"Mallory and Irvine The Final Chapter: Xi Jing"</a>. Everestnews2004.com<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">11 February</span> 2012</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=unknown&rft.btitle=Mallory+and+Irvine+The+Final+Chapter%3A+Xi+Jing&rft.pub=Everestnews2004.com&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.everestnews2004.com%2Fmalloryandirvine2004%2Fstories2004%2Fxijing12142004.htm&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-34"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-34">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.msn.com/en-us/news/world/discovery-of-climber-s-boot-could-solve-mystery-of-who-conquered-everest-first/ar-AA1s5piS?ocid=msedgdhp&pc=U531&cvid=c5ce7cde7a514b93a3e73f5a57d87183&ei=25">MSN report discovery-of-climber-s-boot-could-solve-mystery-of-who-conquered-everest-first accessed 12 October 2024</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-35"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-35">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/sandy-irvine-body-found-everest">"Remains of Sandy Irvine believed to have been found on Everest"</a>. <i>National Geographic</i>. 11 October 2024<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">11 October</span> 2024</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=National+Geographic&rft.atitle=Remains+of+Sandy+Irvine+believed+to+have+been+found+on+Everest&rft.date=2024-10-11&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nationalgeographic.com%2Fadventure%2Farticle%2Fsandy-irvine-body-found-everest&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-36"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-36">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFWong2024" class="citation news cs1">Wong, Tessa (11 October 2024). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cy0g2p47xd5o">"Family tells of 'relief' after 1924 climber's foot found on Everest"</a>. <i>BBC News</i><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">11 October</span> 2024</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=BBC+News&rft.atitle=Family+tells+of+%27relief%27+after+1924+climber%27s+foot+found+on+Everest&rft.date=2024-10-11&rft.aulast=Wong&rft.aufirst=Tessa&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bbc.co.uk%2Fnews%2Farticles%2Fcy0g2p47xd5o&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-37"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-37">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation news cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.itv.com/news/2024-10-11/remains-of-british-explorer-found-on-mount-everest-100-years-after-disappearance?utm_medium=Social&utm_source=Twitter#Echobox=1728641858-1">"Remains of Everest explorer Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine found 100 years after disappearance"</a><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">11 October</span> 2024</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.atitle=Remains+of+Everest+explorer+Andrew+%27Sandy%27+Irvine+found+100+years+after+disappearance&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.itv.com%2Fnews%2F2024-10-11%2Fremains-of-british-explorer-found-on-mount-everest-100-years-after-disappearance%3Futm_medium%3DSocial%26utm_source%3DTwitter%23Echobox%3D1728641858-1&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-38"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-38">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFHemmlebJohnsonSimonson1999" class="citation book cs1">Hemmleb, Jochen; Johnson, Larry A.; Simonson, Eric R. (1999). <i>Ghosts of Everest: The Search for Mallory & Irvine</i>. Mountaineer Books. <a href="/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0898866995" title="Special:BookSources/978-0898866995"><bdi>978-0898866995</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Ghosts+of+Everest%3A+The+Search+for+Mallory+%26+Irvine&rft.pub=Mountaineer+Books&rft.date=1999&rft.isbn=978-0898866995&rft.aulast=Hemmleb&rft.aufirst=Jochen&rft.au=Johnson%2C+Larry+A.&rft.au=Simonson%2C+Eric+R.&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-39"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-39">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20090712041422/http://www.innovation-for-extremes.org/malloryMyths.html">"Dispatch about Hoyland's climb"</a>. Archived from <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.innovation-for-extremes.org/malloryMyths.html">the original</a> on 12 July 2009<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">26 May</span> 2013</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=unknown&rft.btitle=Dispatch+about+Hoyland%27s+climb&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.innovation-for-extremes.org%2FmalloryMyths.html&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-40"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-40">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.wemjournal.org/article/S1080-6032%2811%2900329-2/fulltext">"Mountain Clothing and Thermoregulation: A Look Back"</a><span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">30 November</span> 2023</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=unknown&rft.btitle=Mountain+Clothing+and+Thermoregulation%3A+A+Look+Back&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.wemjournal.org%2Farticle%2FS1080-6032%252811%252900329-2%2Ffulltext&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-41"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-41">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFHavenith,_George" class="citation web cs1">Havenith, George. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20130604052405/http://www.lboro.ac.uk/service/publicity/publications/view/springsummer08/mallory.html">"Unravelling the mystery of Mallory"</a>. <i>The View – Spring / Summer 2008</i>. Loughborough University. Archived from <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.lboro.ac.uk/service/publicity/publications/view/springsummer08/mallory.html">the original</a> on 4 June 2013<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">26 May</span> 2013</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=The+View+%E2%80%93+Spring+%2F+Summer+2008&rft.atitle=Unravelling+the+mystery+of+Mallory&rft.au=Havenith%2C+George&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lboro.ac.uk%2Fservice%2Fpublicity%2Fpublications%2Fview%2Fspringsummer08%2Fmallory.html&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-reuters2007-42"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-reuters2007_42-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"> <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation news cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.reuters.com/article/domesticNews/idUSDEL28082020070614">"Climbers staging Mallory Everest bid get cold feet"</a>. Reuters. 14 June 2007<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">12 October</span> 2019</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.atitle=Climbers+staging+Mallory+Everest+bid+get+cold+feet&rft.date=2007-06-14&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.reuters.com%2Farticle%2FdomesticNews%2FidUSDEL28082020070614&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-43"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-43">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=16061">"ExWeb Special: Ankers Everest team free-climbing the Second Step in the footprints of Mallory...Oscar Cadiach and Theo Fritsche"</a>. <i>ExplorersWeb</i>. 7 June 2007. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190719033437/https://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=16061">Archived</a> from the original on 19 July 2019<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">21 July</span> 2020</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=ExplorersWeb&rft.atitle=ExWeb+Special%3A+Ankers+Everest+team+free-climbing+the+Second+Step+in+the+footprints+of+Mallory...Oscar+Cadiach+and+Theo+Fritsche&rft.date=2007-06-07&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fexplorersweb.com%2Feverest_k2%2Fnews.php%3Fid%3D16061&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1924+British+Mount+Everest+expedition" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> </ol></div></div> <div class="navbox-styles"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1129693374">.mw-parser-output .hlist dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul{margin:0;padding:0}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt,.mw-parser-output .hlist li{margin:0;display:inline}.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline ul,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl ul,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol ul,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul ul{display:inline}.mw-parser-output .hlist .mw-empty-li{display:none}.mw-parser-output .hlist dt::after{content:": "}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist li::after{content:" · ";font-weight:bold}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist li:last-child::after{content:none}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd dd:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist dd dt:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist dd li:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt dd:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt dt:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt li:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist li dd:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist li dt:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist li li:first-child::before{content:" (";font-weight:normal}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd dd:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist dd dt:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist dd li:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt dd:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt dt:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt li:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist li dd:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist li dt:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist li li:last-child::after{content:")";font-weight:normal}.mw-parser-output .hlist ol{counter-reset:listitem}.mw-parser-output .hlist ol>li{counter-increment:listitem}.mw-parser-output .hlist ol>li::before{content:" "counter(listitem)"\a0 "}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd ol>li:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt ol>li:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist li ol>li:first-child::before{content:" ("counter(listitem)"\a0 "}</style><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1236075235">.mw-parser-output .navbox{box-sizing:border-box;border:1px solid #a2a9b1;width:100%;clear:both;font-size:88%;text-align:center;padding:1px;margin:1em auto 0}.mw-parser-output .navbox .navbox{margin-top:0}.mw-parser-output .navbox+.navbox,.mw-parser-output .navbox+.navbox-styles+.navbox{margin-top:-1px}.mw-parser-output .navbox-inner,.mw-parser-output .navbox-subgroup{width:100%}.mw-parser-output .navbox-group,.mw-parser-output .navbox-title,.mw-parser-output .navbox-abovebelow{padding:0.25em 1em;line-height:1.5em;text-align:center}.mw-parser-output .navbox-group{white-space:nowrap;text-align:right}.mw-parser-output .navbox,.mw-parser-output .navbox-subgroup{background-color:#fdfdfd}.mw-parser-output .navbox-list{line-height:1.5em;border-color:#fdfdfd}.mw-parser-output .navbox-list-with-group{text-align:left;border-left-width:2px;border-left-style:solid}.mw-parser-output tr+tr>.navbox-abovebelow,.mw-parser-output tr+tr>.navbox-group,.mw-parser-output tr+tr>.navbox-image,.mw-parser-output tr+tr>.navbox-list{border-top:2px solid #fdfdfd}.mw-parser-output .navbox-title{background-color:#ccf}.mw-parser-output .navbox-abovebelow,.mw-parser-output .navbox-group,.mw-parser-output .navbox-subgroup .navbox-title{background-color:#ddf}.mw-parser-output .navbox-subgroup .navbox-group,.mw-parser-output .navbox-subgroup .navbox-abovebelow{background-color:#e6e6ff}.mw-parser-output .navbox-even{background-color:#f7f7f7}.mw-parser-output .navbox-odd{background-color:transparent}.mw-parser-output .navbox .hlist td dl,.mw-parser-output .navbox .hlist td ol,.mw-parser-output .navbox .hlist td ul,.mw-parser-output .navbox td.hlist dl,.mw-parser-output .navbox td.hlist ol,.mw-parser-output .navbox td.hlist ul{padding:0.125em 0}.mw-parser-output .navbox .navbar{display:block;font-size:100%}.mw-parser-output .navbox-title .navbar{float:left;text-align:left;margin-right:0.5em}body.skin--responsive .mw-parser-output .navbox-image img{max-width:none!important}@media print{body.ns-0 .mw-parser-output .navbox{display:none!important}}</style></div><div role="navigation" class="navbox" aria-labelledby="Mount_Everest352" style="padding:3px"><table class="nowraplinks mw-collapsible mw-collapsed navbox-inner" style="border-spacing:0;background:transparent;color:inherit"><tbody><tr><th scope="col" class="navbox-title" colspan="3"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1239400231">.mw-parser-output .navbar{display:inline;font-size:88%;font-weight:normal}.mw-parser-output .navbar-collapse{float:left;text-align:left}.mw-parser-output .navbar-boxtext{word-spacing:0}.mw-parser-output .navbar ul{display:inline-block;white-space:nowrap;line-height:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-brackets::before{margin-right:-0.125em;content:"[ "}.mw-parser-output .navbar-brackets::after{margin-left:-0.125em;content:" ]"}.mw-parser-output .navbar li{word-spacing:-0.125em}.mw-parser-output .navbar a>span,.mw-parser-output .navbar a>abbr{text-decoration:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-mini abbr{font-variant:small-caps;border-bottom:none;text-decoration:none;cursor:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-ct-full{font-size:114%;margin:0 7em}.mw-parser-output .navbar-ct-mini{font-size:114%;margin:0 4em}html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .navbar li a abbr{color:var(--color-base)!important}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .navbar li a abbr{color:var(--color-base)!important}}@media print{.mw-parser-output .navbar{display:none!important}}</style><div class="navbar plainlinks hlist navbar-mini"><ul><li class="nv-view"><a href="/wiki/Template:Mount_Everest" title="Template:Mount Everest"><abbr title="View this template">v</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-talk"><a href="/wiki/Template_talk:Mount_Everest" title="Template talk:Mount Everest"><abbr title="Discuss this template">t</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-edit"><a href="/wiki/Special:EditPage/Template:Mount_Everest" title="Special:EditPage/Template:Mount Everest"><abbr title="Edit this template">e</abbr></a></li></ul></div><div id="Mount_Everest352" style="font-size:114%;margin:0 4em"><a href="/wiki/Mount_Everest" title="Mount Everest">Mount Everest</a></div></th></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Topography<br />and landmarks</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Everest_base_camps" title="Everest base camps">Base Camp</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Geneva_Spur" title="Geneva Spur">Geneva Spur</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hillary_Step" title="Hillary Step">Hillary Step</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hornbein_Couloir" title="Hornbein Couloir">Hornbein Couloir</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kangshung_Face" title="Kangshung Face">Kangshung Face</a> (East Face)</li> <li><a href="/wiki/Kangshung_Glacier" title="Kangshung Glacier">Kangshung Glacier</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Khumbu_Glacier" title="Khumbu Glacier">Khumbu Glacier</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Khumbu_Icefall" title="Khumbu Icefall">Khumbu Icefall</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lhakpa_La" class="mw-redirect" title="Lhakpa La">Lhakpa La</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lho_La" title="Lho La">Lho La</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/North_Col" title="North Col">North Col</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/North_Face_(Everest)" title="North Face (Everest)">North Face</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Norton_Couloir" title="Norton Couloir">Norton Couloir</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Rongbuk_Glacier" title="Rongbuk Glacier">Rongbuk Glacier</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/South_Col" title="South Col">South Col</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/South_Summit_(Everest)" class="mw-redirect" title="South Summit (Everest)">South Summit</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Three_Pinnacles" title="Three Pinnacles">Three Pinnacles</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Three_Steps" title="Three Steps">Three Steps</a> <ul><li>"<a href="/wiki/Green_Boots" title="Green Boots">Green Boots cave</a>"</li></ul></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Western_Cwm" title="Western Cwm">Western Cwm</a></li></ul> </div></td><td class="noviewer navbox-image" rowspan="9" style="width:1px;padding:0 0 0 2px"><div><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Everest_kalapatthar_crop.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4b/Everest_kalapatthar_crop.jpg/75px-Everest_kalapatthar_crop.jpg" decoding="async" width="75" height="92" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4b/Everest_kalapatthar_crop.jpg/113px-Everest_kalapatthar_crop.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4b/Everest_kalapatthar_crop.jpg/150px-Everest_kalapatthar_crop.jpg 2x" data-file-width="2299" data-file-height="2811" /></a></span></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/List_of_Mount_Everest_expeditions" title="List of Mount Everest expeditions">Expeditions</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/1921_British_Mount_Everest_reconnaissance_expedition" title="1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition">1921 British reconnaissance</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1922_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1922 British Mount Everest expedition">1922 British</a></li> <li><a class="mw-selflink selflink">1924 British</a> (<a href="/wiki/Affair_of_the_Dancing_Lamas" title="Affair of the Dancing Lamas">Affair of the Dancing Lamas</a>)</li> <li><a href="/wiki/Houston%E2%80%93Mount_Everest_flight_expedition" title="Houston–Mount Everest flight expedition">1933 British aerial reconnaissance</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1933_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1933 British Mount Everest expedition">1933 British</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1935_British_Mount_Everest_reconnaissance_expedition" title="1935 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition">1935 British</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1936_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1936 British Mount Everest expedition">1936 British</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1938_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1938 British Mount Everest expedition">1938 British</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mount_Everest_reconnaissance_from_Nepal" title="Mount Everest reconnaissance from Nepal">1950–52 British–Swiss–US reconnaissance</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1951_British_Mount_Everest_reconnaissance_expedition" title="1951 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition">1951 British</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1952_Swiss_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1952 Swiss Mount Everest expedition">1952 Swiss</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1953_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1953 British Mount Everest expedition">1953 British</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1960_Chinese_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1960 Chinese Mount Everest expedition">1960 Chinese</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1963_American_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1963 American Mount Everest expedition">1963 American</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1975_British_Mount_Everest_Southwest_Face_expedition" title="1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition">1975 British SW Face</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1976_British_and_Nepalese_Army_Expedition_to_Everest" title="1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest">1976 British–Nepalese SW Face</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1979_Yugoslav_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1979 Yugoslav Mount Everest expedition">1979 Yugoslav West Ridge</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1996_Indo-Tibetan_Border_Police_expedition_to_Mount_Everest" title="1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police expedition to Mount Everest">1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/2006_Philippine_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="2006 Philippine Mount Everest expedition">2006 Philippine</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/2007_Altitude_Everest_expedition" title="2007 Altitude Everest expedition">2007 Altitude Everest expedition</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Earth_Day_20_International_Peace_Climb" title="Earth Day 20 International Peace Climb">Earth Day 20 International Peace Climb</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mallory_and_Irvine_Research_Expedition" title="Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition">Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Notable <a href="/wiki/List_of_people_who_died_climbing_Mount_Everest" title="List of people who died climbing Mount Everest">fatalities</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Francys_Arsentiev" title="Francys Arsentiev">Francys Arsentiev (Sleeping Beauty)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Peter_Boardman" title="Peter Boardman">Peter Boardman</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Green_Boots" title="Green Boots">Green Boots</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sandy_Irvine" class="mw-redirect" title="Sandy Irvine">Sandy Irvine</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/George_Mallory" title="George Mallory">George Mallory</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hannelore_Schmatz" title="Hannelore Schmatz">Hannelore Schmatz</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/David_Sharp_(mountaineer)" title="David Sharp (mountaineer)">David Sharp</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Joe_Tasker" title="Joe Tasker">Joe Tasker</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Committees</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Joint_Himalayan_Committee" title="Joint Himalayan Committee">Joint Himalayan Committee</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mount_Everest_Committee" class="mw-redirect" title="Mount Everest Committee">Mount Everest Committee</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/List_of_media_related_to_Mount_Everest" class="mw-redirect" title="List of media related to Mount Everest">In media</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><i><a href="/wiki/Beyond_the_Edge_(2013_film)" title="Beyond the Edge (2013 film)">Beyond the Edge</a></i></li> <li><a href="/wiki/The_Climb_(book)" title="The Climb (book)"><i>The Climb</i> (book)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/The_Climb_(2007_film)" class="mw-redirect" title="The Climb (2007 film)"><i>The Climb</i> (2007 film)</a></li> <li><i><a href="/wiki/The_Epic_of_Everest" title="The Epic of Everest">The Epic of Everest</a></i></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Everest_(1998_film)" title="Everest (1998 film)"><i>Everest</i> (1998 film)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Everest_(2015_film)" title="Everest (2015 film)"><i>Everest</i> (2015 film)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Everest_(Indian_TV_series)" title="Everest (Indian TV series)"><i>Everest</i> (Indian TV series)</a></li> <li><i><a href="/wiki/Everest_%2782" title="Everest '82">Everest '82</a></i></li> <li><i><a href="/wiki/Everest:_Beyond_the_Limit" title="Everest: Beyond the Limit">Everest: Beyond the Limit</a></i></li> <li><a href="/wiki/EverestMax" title="EverestMax">EverestMax</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Expedition_Everest" title="Expedition Everest">Expedition Everest (roller coaster)</a></li> <li><i><a href="/wiki/Into_Thin_Air" title="Into Thin Air">Into Thin Air</a></i></li> <li><i><a href="/wiki/The_Man_Who_Skied_Down_Everest" title="The Man Who Skied Down Everest">The Man Who Skied Down Everest</a></i></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mount_Everest_webcam" title="Mount Everest webcam">Mount Everest webcam</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Paths_of_Glory_(Archer_novel)" title="Paths of Glory (Archer novel)"><i>Paths of Glory</i></a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Peak_(novel)" title="Peak (novel)"><i>Peak</i></a></li> <li><i><a href="/wiki/The_Conquest_of_Everest" title="The Conquest of Everest">The Conquest of Everest</a></i></li> <li><i><a href="/wiki/The_Wildest_Dream" title="The Wildest Dream">The Wildest Dream</a></i></li> <li><i><a href="/wiki/Wings_Over_Everest" title="Wings Over Everest">Wings Over Everest</a></i></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Timeline_of_Mount_Everest_expeditions" title="Timeline of Mount Everest expeditions">Years</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/1970_Mount_Everest_disaster" title="1970 Mount Everest disaster">1970 disaster</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1974_French_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1974 French Mount Everest expedition">1974 avalanche</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1988_Czechoslovak_-_New_Zealand_Mount_Everest_Southwest_Face_Expedition" title="1988 Czechoslovak - New Zealand Mount Everest Southwest Face Expedition">1988 disaster</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/1996_Mount_Everest_disaster" title="1996 Mount Everest disaster">1996 disaster</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mount_Everest_in_2012" title="Mount Everest in 2012">2012</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mount_Everest_in_2013" title="Mount Everest in 2013">2013</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/2014_Mount_Everest_ice_avalanche" title="2014 Mount Everest ice avalanche">2014 avalanche</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/2015_Mount_Everest_avalanches" title="2015 Mount Everest avalanches">2015 avalanches</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mount_Everest_in_2016" title="Mount Everest in 2016">2016</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mount_Everest_in_2017" title="Mount Everest in 2017">2017</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mount_Everest_in_2018" title="Mount Everest in 2018">2018</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Mount Everest massif</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Khumbutse" title="Khumbutse">Khumbutse</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lhotse" title="Lhotse">Lhotse</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lingtren" title="Lingtren">Lingtren</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Nuptse" title="Nuptse">Nuptse</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pumori" title="Pumori">Pumori</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/List_of_Mount_Everest_records" title="List of Mount Everest records">Records</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/List_of_Mount_Everest_summiters_by_number_of_times_to_the_summit" class="mw-redirect" title="List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit">Times to the summit</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/List_of_20th-century_summiters_of_Mount_Everest" title="List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest">20th-century summiters</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Mountain_guide" title="Mountain guide">Mountain guides</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/List_of_Mount_Everest_guides" title="List of Mount Everest guides">List of Mount Everest guides</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sherpa_people" title="Sherpa people">Sherpas</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table></div> <div class="navbox-styles"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1236075235"></div><div role="navigation" class="navbox authority-control" aria-labelledby="Authority_control_databases_frameless&#124;text-top&#124;10px&#124;alt=Edit_this_at_Wikidata&#124;link=https&#58;//www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q918286#identifiers&#124;class=noprint&#124;Edit_this_at_Wikidata596" style="padding:3px"><table class="nowraplinks hlist mw-collapsible autocollapse navbox-inner" style="border-spacing:0;background:transparent;color:inherit"><tbody><tr><th scope="col" class="navbox-title" colspan="2"><div id="Authority_control_databases_frameless&#124;text-top&#124;10px&#124;alt=Edit_this_at_Wikidata&#124;link=https&#58;//www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q918286#identifiers&#124;class=noprint&#124;Edit_this_at_Wikidata596" style="font-size:114%;margin:0 4em"><a href="/wiki/Help:Authority_control" title="Help:Authority control">Authority control databases</a> <span class="mw-valign-text-top noprint" typeof="mw:File/Frameless"><a href="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q918286#identifiers" title="Edit this at Wikidata"><img alt="Edit this at Wikidata" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/8/8a/OOjs_UI_icon_edit-ltr-progressive.svg/10px-OOjs_UI_icon_edit-ltr-progressive.svg.png" decoding="async" width="10" height="10" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/8/8a/OOjs_UI_icon_edit-ltr-progressive.svg/15px-OOjs_UI_icon_edit-ltr-progressive.svg.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/8/8a/OOjs_UI_icon_edit-ltr-progressive.svg/20px-OOjs_UI_icon_edit-ltr-progressive.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="20" data-file-height="20" /></a></span></div></th></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">International</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"><ul><li><span class="uid"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://viaf.org/viaf/130150447">VIAF</a></span></li></ul></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">National</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"><ul><li><span class="uid"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n00110230">United States</a></span></li><li><span class="uid"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.nli.org.il/en/authorities/987007524670605171">Israel</a></span></li></ul></div></td></tr></tbody></table></div>    </div><noscript><img src="https://login.wikimedia.org/wiki/Special:CentralAutoLogin/start?useformat=desktop&type=1x1&usesul3=0" alt="" width="1" height="1" style="border: none; position: absolute;"></noscript> <div class="printfooter" data-nosnippet="">Retrieved from "<a dir="ltr" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&oldid=1269650512">https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&oldid=1269650512</a>"</div></div> <div id="catlinks" class="catlinks" data-mw="interface"><div id="mw-normal-catlinks" class="mw-normal-catlinks"><a href="/wiki/Help:Category" title="Help:Category">Categories</a>: <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Category:Mount_Everest_expeditions" title="Category:Mount Everest expeditions">Mount Everest expeditions</a></li><li><a href="/wiki/Category:Mountaineering_in_the_United_Kingdom" title="Category:Mountaineering in the United Kingdom">Mountaineering in the United Kingdom</a></li><li><a href="/wiki/Category:1924_in_science" title="Category:1924 in science">1924 in science</a></li><li><a href="/wiki/Category:Expeditions_from_the_United_Kingdom" title="Category:Expeditions from the United Kingdom">Expeditions from the United Kingdom</a></li><li><a href="/wiki/Category:Tibet%E2%80%93United_Kingdom_relations" title="Category:Tibet–United Kingdom relations">Tibet–United Kingdom relations</a></li></ul></div><div id="mw-hidden-catlinks" class="mw-hidden-catlinks mw-hidden-cats-hidden">Hidden categories: <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description" title="Category:Articles with short description">Articles with short description</a></li><li><a href="/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata" title="Category:Short description is different from Wikidata">Short description is different from Wikidata</a></li><li><a href="/wiki/Category:EngvarB_from_June_2019" title="Category:EngvarB from June 2019">EngvarB from June 2019</a></li><li><a href="/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_December_2019" title="Category:Use dmy dates from December 2019">Use dmy dates from December 2019</a></li><li><a href="/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_specifically_marked_weasel-worded_phrases" title="Category:All articles with specifically marked weasel-worded phrases">All articles with specifically marked weasel-worded phrases</a></li><li><a href="/wiki/Category:Articles_with_specifically_marked_weasel-worded_phrases_from_February_2020" title="Category:Articles with specifically marked weasel-worded phrases from February 2020">Articles with specifically marked weasel-worded phrases from February 2020</a></li><li><a href="/wiki/Category:All_articles_lacking_reliable_references" title="Category:All articles lacking reliable references">All articles lacking reliable references</a></li><li><a href="/wiki/Category:Articles_lacking_reliable_references_from_February_2020" title="Category:Articles lacking reliable references from February 2020">Articles lacking reliable references from February 2020</a></li></ul></div></div> </div> </main> </div> <div class="mw-footer-container"> <footer id="footer" class="mw-footer" > <ul id="footer-info"> <li id="footer-info-lastmod"> This page was last edited on 15 January 2025, at 18:30<span class="anonymous-show"> (UTC)</span>.</li> <li id="footer-info-copyright">Text is available under the <a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:Text_of_the_Creative_Commons_Attribution-ShareAlike_4.0_International_License" title="Wikipedia:Text of the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License">Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 License</a>; additional terms may apply. By using this site, you agree to the <a href="https://foundation.wikimedia.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Policy:Terms_of_Use" class="extiw" title="foundation:Special:MyLanguage/Policy:Terms of Use">Terms of Use</a> and <a href="https://foundation.wikimedia.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Policy:Privacy_policy" class="extiw" title="foundation:Special:MyLanguage/Policy:Privacy policy">Privacy Policy</a>. Wikipedia® is a registered trademark of the <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://wikimediafoundation.org/">Wikimedia Foundation, Inc.</a>, a non-profit organization.</li> </ul> <ul id="footer-places"> <li id="footer-places-privacy"><a href="https://foundation.wikimedia.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Policy:Privacy_policy">Privacy policy</a></li> <li id="footer-places-about"><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:About">About Wikipedia</a></li> <li id="footer-places-disclaimers"><a href="/wiki/Wikipedia:General_disclaimer">Disclaimers</a></li> <li id="footer-places-contact"><a href="//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Contact_us">Contact Wikipedia</a></li> <li id="footer-places-wm-codeofconduct"><a href="https://foundation.wikimedia.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Policy:Universal_Code_of_Conduct">Code of Conduct</a></li> <li id="footer-places-developers"><a href="https://developer.wikimedia.org">Developers</a></li> <li id="footer-places-statslink"><a href="https://stats.wikimedia.org/#/en.wikipedia.org">Statistics</a></li> <li id="footer-places-cookiestatement"><a href="https://foundation.wikimedia.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Policy:Cookie_statement">Cookie statement</a></li> <li id="footer-places-mobileview"><a href="//en.m.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition&mobileaction=toggle_view_mobile" class="noprint stopMobileRedirectToggle">Mobile view</a></li> </ul> <ul id="footer-icons" class="noprint"> <li id="footer-copyrightico"><a href="https://wikimediafoundation.org/" class="cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button--enabled"><img src="/static/images/footer/wikimedia-button.svg" width="84" height="29" alt="Wikimedia Foundation" lang="en" loading="lazy"></a></li> <li id="footer-poweredbyico"><a href="https://www.mediawiki.org/" class="cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--size-large cdx-button--fake-button--enabled"><picture><source media="(min-width: 500px)" srcset="/w/resources/assets/poweredby_mediawiki.svg" width="88" height="31"><img src="/w/resources/assets/mediawiki_compact.svg" alt="Powered by MediaWiki" width="25" height="25" loading="lazy"></picture></a></li> </ul> </footer> </div> </div> </div> <div class="vector-header-container vector-sticky-header-container"> <div id="vector-sticky-header" class="vector-sticky-header"> <div class="vector-sticky-header-start"> <div class="vector-sticky-header-icon-start vector-button-flush-left vector-button-flush-right" aria-hidden="true"> <button class="cdx-button cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only vector-sticky-header-search-toggle" tabindex="-1" data-event-name="ui.vector-sticky-search-form.icon"><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-search mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-search"></span> <span>Search</span> </button> </div> <div role="search" class="vector-search-box-vue vector-search-box-show-thumbnail vector-search-box"> <div class="vector-typeahead-search-container"> <div class="cdx-typeahead-search cdx-typeahead-search--show-thumbnail"> <form action="/w/index.php" id="vector-sticky-search-form" class="cdx-search-input cdx-search-input--has-end-button"> <div class="cdx-search-input__input-wrapper" data-search-loc="header-moved"> <div class="cdx-text-input cdx-text-input--has-start-icon"> <input class="cdx-text-input__input" type="search" name="search" placeholder="Search Wikipedia"> <span class="cdx-text-input__icon cdx-text-input__start-icon"></span> </div> <input type="hidden" name="title" value="Special:Search"> </div> <button class="cdx-button cdx-search-input__end-button">Search</button> </form> </div> </div> </div> <div class="vector-sticky-header-context-bar"> <nav aria-label="Contents" class="vector-toc-landmark"> <div id="vector-sticky-header-toc" class="vector-dropdown mw-portlet mw-portlet-sticky-header-toc vector-sticky-header-toc vector-button-flush-left" > <input type="checkbox" id="vector-sticky-header-toc-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-vector-sticky-header-toc" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox " aria-label="Toggle the table of contents" > <label id="vector-sticky-header-toc-label" for="vector-sticky-header-toc-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only " aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-listBullet mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-listBullet"></span> <span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">Toggle the table of contents</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div id="vector-sticky-header-toc-unpinned-container" class="vector-unpinned-container"> </div> </div> </div> </nav> <div class="vector-sticky-header-context-bar-primary" aria-hidden="true" ><span class="mw-page-title-main">1924 British Mount Everest expedition</span></div> </div> </div> <div class="vector-sticky-header-end" aria-hidden="true"> <div class="vector-sticky-header-icons"> <a href="#" class="cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only" id="ca-talk-sticky-header" tabindex="-1" data-event-name="talk-sticky-header"><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-speechBubbles mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-speechBubbles"></span> <span></span> </a> <a href="#" class="cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only" id="ca-subject-sticky-header" tabindex="-1" data-event-name="subject-sticky-header"><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-article mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-article"></span> <span></span> </a> <a href="#" class="cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only" id="ca-history-sticky-header" tabindex="-1" data-event-name="history-sticky-header"><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-history mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-wikimedia-history"></span> <span></span> </a> <a href="#" class="cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only mw-watchlink" id="ca-watchstar-sticky-header" tabindex="-1" data-event-name="watch-sticky-header"><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-star mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-wikimedia-star"></span> <span></span> </a> <a href="#" class="cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only" id="ca-edit-sticky-header" tabindex="-1" data-event-name="wikitext-edit-sticky-header"><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-wikiText mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-wikimedia-wikiText"></span> <span></span> </a> <a href="#" class="cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only" id="ca-ve-edit-sticky-header" tabindex="-1" data-event-name="ve-edit-sticky-header"><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-edit mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-wikimedia-edit"></span> <span></span> </a> <a href="#" class="cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only" id="ca-viewsource-sticky-header" tabindex="-1" data-event-name="ve-edit-protected-sticky-header"><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-editLock mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-wikimedia-editLock"></span> <span></span> </a> </div> <div class="vector-sticky-header-buttons"> <button class="cdx-button cdx-button--weight-quiet mw-interlanguage-selector" id="p-lang-btn-sticky-header" tabindex="-1" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-p-lang-btn-sticky-header"><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-language mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-wikimedia-language"></span> <span>6 languages</span> </button> <a href="#" class="cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--action-progressive" id="ca-addsection-sticky-header" tabindex="-1" data-event-name="addsection-sticky-header"><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-speechBubbleAdd-progressive mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-speechBubbleAdd-progressive"></span> <span>Add topic</span> </a> </div> <div class="vector-sticky-header-icon-end"> <div class="vector-user-links"> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="vector-settings" id="p-dock-bottom"> <ul></ul> </div><script>(RLQ=window.RLQ||[]).push(function(){mw.config.set({"wgHostname":"mw-web.codfw.main-65b64b4b74-w8pqg","wgBackendResponseTime":145,"wgPageParseReport":{"limitreport":{"cputime":"0.905","walltime":"1.064","ppvisitednodes":{"value":10768,"limit":1000000},"postexpandincludesize":{"value":112589,"limit":2097152},"templateargumentsize":{"value":6488,"limit":2097152},"expansiondepth":{"value":21,"limit":100},"expensivefunctioncount":{"value":6,"limit":500},"unstrip-depth":{"value":1,"limit":20},"unstrip-size":{"value":151136,"limit":5000000},"entityaccesscount":{"value":1,"limit":400},"timingprofile":["100.00% 942.603 1 -total"," 18.76% 176.842 1 Template:Reflist"," 16.45% 155.035 15 Template:Cite_book"," 13.83% 130.379 19 Template:Rp"," 12.84% 121.059 19 Template:R/superscript"," 9.51% 89.678 1 Template:Mount_Everest"," 8.36% 78.762 1 Template:Navbox"," 8.10% 76.390 1 Template:Quote_box"," 7.62% 71.846 1 Template:Short_description"," 7.32% 69.040 14 Template:Cite_web"]},"scribunto":{"limitreport-timeusage":{"value":"0.484","limit":"10.000"},"limitreport-memusage":{"value":11110123,"limit":52428800},"limitreport-logs":"anchor_id_list = table#1 {\n [\"CITEREFAnker,_Conrad2011\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFBreashearsSalkeld1999\"] = 3,\n [\"CITEREFBreashearsSalkeld2000\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFHavenith,_George\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFHellen2024\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFHemmleb,_JochenJohnson,_Larry_A.Simonson,_Eric_R.2001\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFHemmleb2002\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFHemmlebJohnsonSimonson1999\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFHemmlebSimonson,_Eric2002\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFHolzel,_TomSalkeld,_Audrey1999\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFHoyland2014\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFNoel1927\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFNorton1925\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFNorton2000\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFSmythe2013\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFTom_Holzel2009\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFUnsworth2000\"] = 1,\n [\"CITEREFWong2024\"] = 1,\n}\ntemplate_list = table#1 {\n [\"Authority control\"] = 1,\n [\"Better source needed\"] = 1,\n [\"Cite book\"] = 15,\n [\"Cite journal\"] = 1,\n [\"Cite news\"] = 7,\n [\"Cite web\"] = 14,\n [\"Convert\"] = 20,\n [\"EngvarB\"] = 1,\n [\"Hair space\"] = 1,\n [\"ISBN\"] = 1,\n [\"In5\"] = 1,\n [\"Inflation\"] = 1,\n [\"Mount Everest\"] = 1,\n [\"Nbsp\"] = 5,\n [\"Poemquote\"] = 1,\n [\"Quote box\"] = 1,\n [\"Reflist\"] = 1,\n [\"Rp\"] = 19,\n [\"Sfn\"] = 7,\n [\"Short description\"] = 1,\n [\"Snd\"] = 2,\n [\"To whom?\"] = 1,\n [\"Use dmy dates\"] = 1,\n}\narticle_whitelist = table#1 {\n}\nciteref_patterns = table#1 {\n}\n"},"cachereport":{"origin":"mw-web.codfw.main-65b64b4b74-pmnnt","timestamp":"20250219125313","ttl":2592000,"transientcontent":false}}});});</script> <script type="application/ld+json">{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@type":"Article","name":"1924 British Mount Everest expedition","url":"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/1924_British_Mount_Everest_expedition","sameAs":"http:\/\/www.wikidata.org\/entity\/Q918286","mainEntity":"http:\/\/www.wikidata.org\/entity\/Q918286","author":{"@type":"Organization","name":"Contributors to Wikimedia projects"},"publisher":{"@type":"Organization","name":"Wikimedia Foundation, Inc.","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","url":"https:\/\/www.wikimedia.org\/static\/images\/wmf-hor-googpub.png"}},"datePublished":"2008-12-05T23:21:59Z","dateModified":"2025-01-15T18:30:20Z","image":"https:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/d\/d9\/Mount_Everest_North_Face.jpg","headline":"mountaineering expeditiong"}</script> </body> </html>