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The company was established as '''Northwestern Knitting Company'''.<ref name=muns>{{cite book |url = http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/premiumwear-inc-history/ |title = International Directory of Company Histories |volume = 30 |publisher = St. James Press |year = 2000 }}</ref> It also was known as '''PremiumWear'''.<ref name=muns/> ==History== The company was started by George D. Munsing, who came to Minnesota from New York in 1886 to set up a textile factory, along with Frank H. Page and Edward O. Tuttle from the [[Massachusetts Institute of Technology]].<ref name=muns/> Munsing had been superintendent of the Rochester Knitting Works and had experimented with knit fabrics and ribbing, developing a process to plate silk on wool, thus making woolen long underwear — essential in cold climates — "itchless": much more comfortable. Munsing came to Minnesota to set up his factory, which manufactured products for women and men, because it was in the coldest region of the U.S., and the market for warm underwear presumably was going to be the best there.<ref name="amazon.com">{{cite web |first = Henry |last = Berry |title = Review of Susan Marks, ''In the Mood for Munsingwear: Minnesota's Claim to Underwear Fame'' |date = May 19, 2011 |url = https://www.amazon.com/Mood-Munsingwear-Minnesotas-Claim-Underwear/dp/0873518225 |access-date = September 15, 2014 }}</ref> Munsing also thought that the many Scandinavian immigrants in Minnesota would make it a suitable location. The mention of underwear was taboo in American society at the time.<ref name="pendle">{{cite web |last = Pendle |first = George |title = The 'Itchless' Innovation that Made Minneapolis the Capital of Underwear |work = AtlasObscura |date = March 7, 2016 |url = http://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/the-itchless-innovation-that-made-minneapolis-the-capital-of-underwear }}</ref> Patent attorney Amasa C. Paul served as Northwestern Knitting Company's president when it was incorporated on February 15, 1887, and Munsing was the vice president.<ref name=muns/> The Northwestern Knitting Company's ad for its products in the September 1897 issue of ''[[Ladies' Home Journal]]'' was the first to display underwear on a live model.<ref>Reproduced in {{cite book |first = Susan |last = Marks |title = In the Mood for Munsingwear: Minnesota's Claim to Underwear Fame |publisher = Minnesota Historical Society Press |year = 2011 |isbn = 0873518225 |page = 5 }}</ref> Munsing was a technologist, and the company received several patents, including those for a crocheting machine in 1891 and a [[union suit]] in the early 1890s. The union suit was the company's flagship product until the 1920s,<ref>{{cite web |title = Munsing Wear: An American Classic |url = http://www.dollhousebettie.com/index.php?option=com_myblog&Itemid=0&lang=en&show=256 |archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20180326203858/http://www.dollhousebettie.com/index.php?option=com_myblog&Itemid=0&lang=en&show=256 |archive-date = March 26, 2018 |access-date = September 15, 2014 }}</ref> when [[central heating]] made it less useful.<ref>{{harvp|Marks|2011|p= 73|ps=.}}</ref> It continued until 1969.<ref>{{cite news |first = Barb |last = Danson |title = Munsingwear: A Brief History |work = Tonka Times |date = September 2011 |page= 37 |url = http://www.qwsconsulting.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/TT-Sept-2011-Munsingwear.pdf |access-date = September 16, 2014 }}</ref> The cream-colored garment became iconic and was featured in the company's advertising, with children and adults outfitted in them; underwear ads had never used live models before.<ref name="pendle"/> In 1894, Munsing left the company.<ref name=muns/> In 1923, the company went public and changed its name to Munsingwear, Inc.<ref name=muns/> At the time, it was the largest manufacturer of underwear in the world.<ref>{{harvp|Marks|2011|p= 26|ps=.}}</ref> Its slogan was "Don't say underwear, say Munsingwear".<ref>{{cite news |first = Evadene Burris |last = Swanson |title = Don't Say 'Underwear,' Say 'Munsingwear |work = Hennepin County History |date =Winter 1987 |pages = 3–19 }}</ref> At its peak it was producing 30,000 garments per day.<ref>{{harvp|Danson|2011|p= 35|ps=.}}</ref> Its knitting mill was the largest west of the Allegheny Mountains.<ref>{{harvp|Marks|2011|p= 23|ps=.}}</ref> The company expanded into women's underwear in the 1920s, and starting in 1931, offered Foundettes, which used an elasticized yarn to produce a combination foundation garment that combined a brassiere and a girdle.<ref>{{harvp|Marks|2011|pp= 57–59, 73–81|ps=.}}</ref> Munsingwear was the largest employer of women in the state of Minnesota; at one point, 85% of its 3,000 employees were women.<ref>{{cite news |first = Sara |last = Boyd |title = Curiocity: 'Underwear: A Brief History' To Be Unveiled In May |publisher = CBS Minnesota |date = March 7, 2011 |url = http://minnesota.cbslocal.com/2011/03/07/curiocity-underwear-a-brief-history/ |access-date = September 15, 2014 }}</ref> By the 1920s, in part trying to avoid [[unionization]], Munsingwear offered many [[employee benefit|benefit]]s, some quite progressive for the time. It had a health clinic staffed by a full-time nurse, with regular visits from general practitioners, otolaryngologists (because of air quality problems), dental assistants, and dentists. All of this care was free.<ref>{{harvp|Marks|2011|p= 36|ps=.}}</ref> Munsingwear also offered access to health insurance; a branch of the [[Minneapolis Public Library]], which circulated 7,500 books a year; a large, fully staffed kitchen, which provided lunches to the entire work force (in shifts);<ref>{{harvp|Marks|2011|p= 39|ps=.}}</ref> an orchestra, which performed during Thursday lunch breaks; an on-site gymnasium; sports teams;<ref>{{harvp|Marks|2011|p= 40|ps=.}}</ref> and other benefits.<ref name="amazon.com"/><ref>{{cite web |last = Goetz |first = Katherine R. |title = Munsingwear |work = MNopedia |publisher = Minnesota Historical Society |url = http://www.mnopedia.org/group/munsingwear |access-date = September 15, 2014 }}</ref><ref>{{harvp|Marks|2011|pp= 39–43, 48|ps=.}}</ref> Its flagship product of recent years, patented in 1943,<ref>{{cite patent |country= US |number= 4173976 |status= patent |title= Pouch design brief |pubdate= November 13, 1979 |gdate= |fdate= |pridate= |inventor= |invent1= Bloomquist, Lynn M. H. |invent2= Brazil, Robert J. |assign1= Munsingwear, Inc. |assign2= |class= |url= http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&u=%2Fnetahtml%2FPTO%2Fsearch-bool.html&r=6&f=G&l=50&co1=AND&d=PTXT&s1=munsingwear&OS=munsingwear&RS=munsingwear}}</ref> was the "Kangaroo [[Briefs|brief]]", featuring a horizontal [[Fly (clothing)|fly]] and a contoured pouch, as seen in an advertisement showing all its styles of men's underwear available in 1969.<ref>{{cite news |title = Ermatinger's |type = Advertisement |url = https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=888&dat=19690224&id=e2JSAAAAIBAJ&sjid=w3sDAAAAIBAJ&pg=4178,3152522&hl=en |work = [[St. Petersburg Times]] |date = February 24, 1969 |page = 3B |via = Google News }}</ref> In 1951, the company merged with the Vassar Swiss Underwear Company, which became the Vassar division of Munsingwear.<ref>{{cite book |title = Landmark Designation Report, Vassar Swiss Underwear Building |publisher = City of Chicago |year = 2008 |url = http://www.cityofchicago.org/content/dam/city/depts/zlup/Historic_Preservation/Publications/Vassar_Swiss_Underwear_Co_Bldg.pdf |access-date = October 4, 2014 }}</ref> In 1955, the company began producing its Grand Slam golf shirt, with a Penguin logo. In the 1960s and 1970s, these were the best-selling golf shirts in the world. Munsingwear also added a line of women's golf, bowling, and fashion shirts.<ref>{{harvp|Marks|2011|p= 99|ps=.}}</ref> In 1991, the company filed for Chapter 11 reorganization. In 1996, it changed its name to PremiumWear and focused on specialty markets. PremiumWear was in turn bought by the Canadian clothesmaker [[John Forsyth (clothier)|John Forsyth]], which sought bankruptcy protection in 2013. The Munsingwear and Original Penguin brands are currently owned by [[Perry Ellis International|Perry Ellis]].<ref>{{harvp|Danson|2011|p= 37|ps=.}}</ref> ==''United States v. Munsingwear''== Following World War II, the United States sued Munsingwear for alleged violations of a price-fixing regulation, seeking, in separate counts, an injunction and treble damages.<ref>{{cite court |url = https://supreme.justia.com/cases/federal/us/340/36/ |litigants = United States v. Munsingwear, Inc. |vol = 340 |reporter= U.S. |opinion = 36 |date = 1950 |via = Justia.com |access-date = February 28, 2020 }}</ref> While the case was being held on appeal, the commodity involved was decontrolled and the case was rendered moot. The Supreme Court [[Vacated judgment|vacated]] the lower court's ruling, sent the case back to the lower court, and had them render the case moot. This practice has commonly become known as a ''Munsingwear'' vacatur.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.scotusblog.com/2008/06/practice-pointer-mootness-and-munsingwear-vacatur/ |title=Practice Pointer: Mootness and Munsingwear Vacatur |last= Millett |first= Pattie|date= June 10, 2008 |website= SCOTUSBlog |access-date= February 28, 2020}}</ref> ==Vassar Swiss Underwear Company== Vassar Swiss Underwear Company began operations in 1900 and was purchased by Northwestern Knitting Company in 1912.<ref name = "lm">{{cite web|title=Landmark Designation Report: Vassar Swiss Underwear Company Building|publisher=City of Chicago Department of Planning and Development|date=February 7, 2008|url=http://www.cityofchicago.org/content/dam/city/depts/zlup/Historic_Preservation/Publications/Vassar_Swiss_Underwear_Co_Bldg.pdf|accessdate = August 13, 2010}}</ref> The founders were George E. Rutledge, Emil A. Basener, and Frederick S. McCoy. The company started in [[Chicago]], but soon moved operations to [[Rochelle, Illinois]]. Shortly after the sale, Northwestern decided to ramp up production and moved Vassar Swiss back to Chicago, building a new plant, named the [[Vassar Swiss Underwear Company Building]].<ref name = "lm"/> Construction was completed in April of the following year.<ref name = "lm"/> Vassar Swiss prospered in its new location. Rutledge, now a vice president at parent company Northwestern, joined with other company designers to improve his original union suit design.<ref name = "lm"/> In 1923, the company constructed an addition on the western portion of their building, by the same architect, to house their box factory and shipping. Over the next four decades, the company shifted focus and products. Union suits became less popular, and [[briefs]] soon became the company's leading product. Vassar Swiss purchased the building from Stewart after having leased it since construction.<ref name = "lm"/> Rutledge retired in 1937. The company shortened its name to "Vassar Company" and, in 1951, "[[Vassarette]]."<ref name = "vassar">{{cite web| title = The Vassarette Story| publisher = Vanity Fair Brands| url = http://www.vassarette.com/pages/our_story.html| accessdate = August 19, 2010| archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20100831064748/http://www.vassarette.com/pages/our_story.html| archive-date = August 31, 2010| url-status = dead}}</ref> In 1967, production operations were moved from Chicago to [[Paris, Texas]],<ref name = "lm"/> and as of 2010, the Vassarette name is owned by Vanity Fair Brands and produces women's underwear.<ref name = "vassar"/> ==Archival material== The Minnesota Historical Society has a collection of over 3,500 pieces of Munsingwear, donated by the company when it shut down its factory in North Minneapolis, together with company papers, photos, salesman's samples, and premiums.<ref>{{harvp|Marks|2011|p= x|ps=.}}</ref> == See also == * [[Northwestern Knitting Company Factory building]] ==References== {{Reflist}} ==Further reading== {{refbegin|30em}} *{{cite news |last = Anderson |first = Marcia G. |title = Munsingwear: An Underwear for America |work = Minnesota History |date =Winter 1986 |pages = 152–161 |url = http://collections.mnhs.org/MNHistoryMagazine/articles/50/v50i04p152-161.pdf |access-date = September 15, 2014 }} *{{cite news |title = Betting on the Bang Theory |work = Corporate Report Minnesota |date = December 1979 |page = 65 }} *{{cite news |last = Beulke |first = Diane |title = Heads Roll As Munsingwear Tries for Another Comeback |work = Minneapolis/St. Paul CityBusiness |date = October 21, 1987 |pages = 1, 27 }} *{{cite news |last = Feyder |first = Susan |title = PremiumWear New Golf Shirt Won't Include the Penguin |work = Star Tribune |location = Minneapolis |date = January 9, 1998 |page = 1D }} *{{cite news |last = Hillbery |first = Rhonda |title = A Better Kind of Bankruptcy |work = Minneapolis/St. Paul CityBusiness |date = November 25, 1991 |pages = 11, 18 }} *{{cite news |last = Johnson |first = Ken |title = The Munsingwear Fit |work = Corporate Report Minnesota |date = February 1975 |pages = 29–30 }} *{{cite news |last = Merrill |first = Ann |title = Campbell Tailors a New Munsingwear |work = Minneapolis/St. Paul CityBusiness |date = September 17–23, 1990 |pages = 1, 22 }} *{{cite news |title = Munsingwear a Supreme Buy: Miami-Based Company Has Big Plans for Branded Golf Labels |work= Daily News Record |date = May 24, 1996 |page = 1 }} *{{cite news |title = Munsingwear Falls Deeper into Red |work = Daily News Record |date = April 9, 1996 |page = 9 }} *{{cite news |title = Munsingwear Reduces Loss in 4th Quarter to $298,000 |work= Daily News Record |date = March 13, 1995 |page = 2 }} *{{cite news |title = Munsingwear: Scoring on Comeback Course |work= Daily News Record |date = May 11, 1992 |page = 10 }} *{{cite news |title = Munsingwear Selling Marks for China, Vietnam, Macao |work= Daily News Record |date = July 2, 1996 |page = 10 }} *{{cite news |title = Munsingwear Sews Up Deal to Supply Sears with Shirts |work = Minneapolis/St. Paul CityBusiness |date = January 6–12, 1992 |pages = 1, 15 }} *{{cite news |title = Munsingwear Shows $1.2 Million Profit in Year |work= Daily News Record |date = February 19, 1993 |page = 2 }} *{{cite news |last = Peterson |first = Susan E. |title = Campbell Will Leave Munsingwear to Become CEO of Crystal Brands, a Larger Competitor |work = Star Tribune |location = Minneapolis |date = July 16, 1993 |page = 1D }} *{{cite news |title = PremiumWear Has Strong Quarter |work= Daily News Record |date = March 2, 1998 |page = 11 }} *{{cite news |title = PremiumWear, Inc. |work = Corporate Report Fact Book |year = 1999 |page = 377 }} *{{cite press release |title = PremiumWear Names James Murphy General Manager of Golf Division |publisher = PremiumWear |via = PR Newswire |date = July 28, 1999 }} *{{cite news |title = PremiumWear Net Skyrockets in 4th Quarter, Year |work = Daily News Record |date = April 9, 1999 |page = 12 }} *{{cite news |title = PremiumWear to Close N.C. Plant |work = Star Tribune |location = Minneapolis |date = April 27, 1999 |page = 3D }} *{{cite news |last = Souder |first = William |title = Munsingwear on the Mend |work = Corporate Report Minnesota |date= August 1981 |pages = 47–51, 134–140 }} *{{cite news |last = Trachtenberg |first = Jeffrey A. |title = The Minnow and the Basses |work = Forbes |date = February 25, 1985 |page = 75 }} *{{cite news |last = Tracy |first = Eleanor Johnson |title = Stodgy Munsingwear Changes Its Underwear |work = Fortune |date = September 3, 1984 |page = 67 }} *{{cite news |last = Youngblood |first = Dick |title = Smaller Is Better |work = Star Tribune |location = Minneapolis |date = January 26, 1998 |page = 1D }} {{refend}} ==External links== *Minnesota Historical Society, "[http://www.minnesotahistorycenter.org/exhibits/underwear-brief-history Underwear: A Brief History]" {{men's undergarments}} [[Category:Clothing brands of the United States]] [[Category:Underwear brands]] [[Category:Manufacturing companies based in Minneapolis]] [[Category:American companies established in 1886]] [[Category:Clothing companies established in 1886]] [[Category:1886 establishments in Minnesota]] </textarea><div class="templatesUsed"><div class="mw-templatesUsedExplanation"><p><span id="templatesused">Pages transcluded onto the current version of this page<span class="posteditwindowhelplinks"> (<a href="/wiki/Help:Transclusion" title="Help:Transclusion">help</a>)</span>:</span> </p></div><ul> <li><a href="/wiki/United_States_v._Munsingwear,_Inc." class="mw-redirect" title="United States v. 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