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button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 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xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23999'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 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button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' 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d="M122,304H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,302.552,76,302v-92c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,208,78,208h44c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S124,209.448,124,210v92c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S122.552,304,122,304z"></path><path fill="#D24712" d="M230,376h-80c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S148,374.552,148,374V138c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S149.448,136,150,136h80c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S232,137.448,232,138v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S230.552,376,230,376z"></path><path fill="#FA6400" d="M422,424H258c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S256,422.552,256,422V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S257.448,88,258,88h164c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v332c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,424,422,424z"></path></g></svg><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" 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href="/web/20220525081235/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><span>Food & Hospitality</span><span class="article-labels__delimiter b-font-weight-300"> | </span></a><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220525081235/https://www.bbc.com/travel/tags/food-drink">Food & Drink</a></div></div><div class="article-headline__text b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300" tabindex="-1">Brazil: The last frontier of gastronomy?</div><div class="article-share-tools"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/mailto:/?subject=Shared from BBC:Brazil:%20The%20last%20frontier%20of%20gastronomy?&body=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bbc.com%2Ftravel%2Farticle%2F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy%3Focid%3Dww.social.link.email" class="email-icon gelicon--mail" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" id=""><span class="screen-reader-only">Share using Email</span><div id="EmailIcon"></div></a><a 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href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/https://www.linkedin.com/shareArticle?mini=true&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bbc.com%2Ftravel%2Farticle%2F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy%3Focid%3Dww.social.link.linkedin&title=Brazil:%20The%20last%20frontier%20of%20gastronomy?" class="linkedin-icon gelicon--linkedin" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" id=""><span class="screen-reader-only">Share on Linkedin</span><div id="LinkedInIcon"></div></a></div></div><div class="copyright__text b-reith-sans-font">(Image credit: INTERFOTO/Alamy)</div><div class="hero-image"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0gl.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0gl.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0gl.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0gl.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0gl.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0gl.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0gl.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0gl.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Many of Brazil’s food experts believe that manioc is the foundation of the country’s cuisine (Credit: INTERFOTO/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0gl.jpg" alt="Many of Brazil’s food experts believe that manioc is the foundation of the country’s cuisine (Credit: INTERFOTO/Alamy)" id=""/></picture></div></div><div class="article__container"><div class="article__main"><div class="article__subcontainer"><article class="article__body"><div class="article__author-unit"><div class="author-unit"><div class="author-unit__container author-unit__container--desktop"><a class="author-unit__text b-font-family-serif" target="" rel="" id="">By Janet Forman</a><span class="b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300">8th October 2019</span></div><div class="author-unit__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--large"></div></div></div></div><div class="article__body-content"><div class="article__intro b-font-family-serif">As Brazil’s food community unites to help save ancient ingredients, it has inspired new ways to use them, sending a wave of madly inventive cuisine across the country.</div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="drop-capped b-reith-sans-font drop-capped--travel">C</div><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--drop-capped body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>Chefs and researchers are stunned: those ancient tales of little-known South American flora with magical-sounding properties turned out to be true.</p><p><em>Jambú</em>, for example, a grassy-flavoured herb that traditional cooks pair with duck is also a tingling anaesthetic. “Here we say, ‘it makes you tremble’,” revealed Joanna Martins, head of the <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://www.institutopaulomartins.org.br/" target="_blank">Paulo Martins Institute</a> for the study of indigenous and Amazonian ingredients. Scientists are investigating the plant for use in toothpaste, pharmaceuticals and even erotic wares, she said.</p><p><em>Crajiru</em> vine, whose leaves are consumed as a tea and is also used as body paint, impresses agronomist and farmer Keila Malvezzi da Silva for its ability to increase iron absorption.</p><p>And many chefs are fascinated by <em>ora-pro-nobis</em>, a member of the cactus family known as “poor people’s meat” for its 25% protein content and for having four times the Vitamin C of oranges.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--landscape"><div id="travel/article/20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-p07ml0cm"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0cm.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0cm.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0cm.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0cm.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0cm.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0cm.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0cm.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0cm.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Brazil’s chefs are turning to indigenous ingredients to save the country’s endangered products and culinary skills before they vanish (Credit: age fotostock/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0cm.jpg" alt="Brazil’s chefs are turning to indigenous ingredients to save the country’s endangered products and culinary skills before they vanish (Credit: age fotostock/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">Brazil’s chefs are turning to indigenous ingredients to save the country’s endangered products and culinary skills before they vanish (Credit: age fotostock/Alamy)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p><strong>You may also be interested in:</strong><br/>• <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/https://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america-49433767" target="_blank">The Amazon in Brazil is on fire – how bad is it?</a><br/>• <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20181127-the-acai-seller-who-got-a-record-deal" target="_blank">The acai seller who got a record deal</a><br/>• <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://www.bbc.com/travel/gallery/20180917-the-rarest-fabric-on-earth" target="_blank">A plan to preserve Peru’s prized vicuna</a></p><p><em>“</em>These [indigenous] communities possess a profound knowledge of the forest – an understanding we haven’t even dreamed of,” said chef Alex Atala. A former punk-rocker, Atala is as renowned for his study of Brazil’s indigenous ingredients as for restaurant <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://domrestaurante.com.br/pt-br/home.html" target="_blank">D.O.M.</a>’s two Michelin stars.</p><p>When I entered the São Paulo restaurant’s dining room, I saw bare glass tables supported by tree stumps, decor ranging from tomes by French chef August Escoffier to Elvis albums, and guests sporting suits and T-shirts, pearls and tattoos. I got the distinct sense that nothing here was going to be ordinary.</p><p>But after consuming intriguing, yet accessible, locally inspired dishes such as flower “ceviche” made with stingless bee honey and humped-backed Zebu beef, so tender it’s served with a spoon, I was stopped dead in my tracks by dessert: there were ants on my plate. I closed my eyes and downed the first little creature. After the disquieting sensation of scratchy legs brushing my throat came a surprise in the form of a mouth-filling burst of citrus and ginger. My gastronomic journey to Brazil had begun with a bungee jump out of my comfort zone.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--landscape"><div id="travel/article/20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-p07ml0d1"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0d1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0d1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0d1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0d1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0d1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0d1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0d1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0d1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="The Amazon is considered by chefs to be “the last frontier of gastronomy” (Credit: imageBROKER/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0d1.jpg" alt="The Amazon is considered by chefs to be “the last frontier of gastronomy” (Credit: imageBROKER/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">The Amazon is considered by chefs to be “the last frontier of gastronomy” (Credit: imageBROKER/Alamy)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>Brazil is a vast, fecund land, with much of the most remote parts of its 8.5 million sq km known only to inhabitants of indigenous communities and <em>quilombos</em>, settlements created by former African slaves. Brazil is said to possess 20% of the Earth’s species, which compels the food community to learn all it can.</p><p>For Catalan chef Ferran Adrià, considered one of the world’s best and most pioneering chefs, the Amazon is “the last frontier of gastronomy”.</p><p>Yet, this still-unlocked treasure chest – that is deeply embedded in rural Brazilian culture and is the economic support system of many villages – is being threatened by <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/https://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america-49433767" target="_blank">devastating forest fires</a>, cattle ranching, mining, logging and other forms of human intrusion.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__pull-quote"><blockquote class="inline-quote b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 inline-quote--travel"><h2 class="simple-header b-reith-sans-font b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 simple-header--serif-light-italic simple-p-tag--medium simple-p-tag--quote">These indigenous communities possess a profound knowledge of the forest – an understanding we haven’t even dreamed of</h2></blockquote></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>Some worry that the proliferation of processed food is threatening indigenous cuisine. “The fast food movement broke into our way of feeding ourselves and we have to reverse that,” said chef Irene Nunes, who runs the hillside <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/https://www.facebook.com/caminhodasgeraissap/" target="_blank">Caminho das Gerais</a> restaurant several hours from São Paulo, where she puts her own twist on rustic cuisine.</p><p>In an effort to save the country’s endangered products and culinary skills before they vanish, Brazil’s most prominent gastronomy professionals are taking action. Near the end of 2018, Georges Schnyder, head of <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://www.slowfoodbrasil.com/" target="_blank">Slow Food Brasil</a>, proclaimed the Pledge in Defense of the Culinary Culture of Brasil. Akin to the 2004 <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://www.newnordicfood.org/" target="_blank">Manifesto for the New Nordic Kitchen</a> signed by 12 Nordic chefs, including world-renowned Danish chef René Redzepi, it reaches far beyond cuisine to preserve this country’s agrarian roots.</p><p>“Cooking is not about having a recipe,” Schnyder asserted. “It’s culture, it’s sustainability, and this ‘manifesto’ is designed to recognise family growers as the basis of the food chain, and assure that their children can remain in the fields.”</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--landscape"><div id="travel/article/20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-p07ml0dw"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0dw.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0dw.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0dw.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0dw.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0dw.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0dw.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0dw.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0dw.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Brazil is said to possess 20% of the Earth’s species (Credit: Octavio Campos Salles/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0dw.jpg" alt="Brazil is said to possess 20% of the Earth’s species (Credit: Octavio Campos Salles/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">Brazil is said to possess 20% of the Earth’s species (Credit: Octavio Campos Salles/Alamy)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>As fires rage in the Amazon, the need to act is even more pressing. According to Atala, “There is a significant increase in deforested areas, and we must deal with this problem responsibly and not turn the issue into an ideological dispute.”</p><p><strong>Preserving traditions</strong></p><p>In support of the Pledge, many chefs are launching parallel careers as explorers, travelling deep into the country’s hinterlands to find and help preserve indigenous plants and artisan products by using them in their restaurants – often elevating or transforming them – and which in turn supports local producers.</p><p>In São Paolo, there’s a futuristic air to Michelin-starred <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://manimanioca.com.br/" target="_blank">Maní</a>, where model-turned-chef Helena Rizzo transforms local ingredients like <em>manioc</em> (cassava) into such uniquely daring dishes that patrons wait willingly for hours to eat. Rizzo has said she feels it’s crazy to think that 90% of the world’s diet comes from only a handful of species such as corn, rice and wheat. “Ingredients like arrowroot and <em>mangarito</em> [a relative of the yam], are important not only as ingredients but as a part of culture and food biodiversity. We still can find and cook with them, but I don’t know until when. We have already lost so many ingredients...”</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--landscape"><div id="travel/article/20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-p07ml0b3"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0b3.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0b3.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0b3.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0b3.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0b3.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0b3.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0b3.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0b3.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="The Pledge in Defense of the Culinary Culture of Brasil is designed to recognise family growers as the basis of the food chain (Credit: imageBROKER/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0b3.jpg" alt="The Pledge in Defense of the Culinary Culture of Brasil is designed to recognise family growers as the basis of the food chain (Credit: imageBROKER/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">The Pledge in Defense of the Culinary Culture of Brasil is designed to recognise family growers as the basis of the food chain (Credit: imageBROKER/Alamy)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>Many of Brazil’s food experts believe that manioc is the foundation of the country’s cuisine. Its myriad monikers, such as <em>mani, maniva, aipim, mandioca </em>and<em> macaxeira,</em> and countless by-products, including tapioca<em>, polvilhos </em>(tapioca flour), <em>tucupí</em> (a yellow sauce) and<em> tiquira</em> (an alcoholic beverage), are a testament to its ubiquity. While not yet endangered, manioc is so crucial to Brazilian cuisine that the Pledge specifically cites it as “the iconic product of our ancestral and indigenous culture”.</p><p>“It’s the one ingredient that has always been present in all social classes,” said Atala. “We peel it, grate it and press it to obtain a starch [that] we call tapioca. When fermented, the broth becomes tucupí<em>,</em> and the pulp is transformed into manioc flour. Its versatility is impressive.”</p><p>Chef Tereza Paim’s Salvador restaurant is another safe harbour for traditional foods. At <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://www.casadetereza.com.br/" target="_blank">Casa de Tereza</a>, she uses hand-drawn <em>dendê</em> oil (palm oil), turning any left over from cooking into soap for customers and employees to use. She believes that this oil, brought to Brazil by the Portuguese from Africa during the slave trade, is an ingredient that must never be lost, as its distinctive scent of violets and wine-red colour is a hallmark of traditional Brazilian cuisine, particularly in Bahia state.</p><p>She calls it “number one of my heart”, and sees its reddish hue as “painting our food with the colour palette of sunset at All Saints Bay”, the body of water fringing part of the city of Salvador, where food and culture imported during the slave era still thrive. According to Paim, local dendê oil “tells us every day that we are Afro-descendants”.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--landscape"><div id="travel/article/20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-p07ml097"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml097.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml097.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml097.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml097.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml097.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml097.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml097.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml097.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Renowned chefs in Brazil are creating locally inspired dishes, such as chef Alex Atala’s flower “ceviche” (Credit: Janet Forman)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml097.jpg" alt="Renowned chefs in Brazil are creating locally inspired dishes, such as chef Alex Atala’s flower “ceviche” (Credit: Janet Forman)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">Renowned chefs in Brazil are creating locally inspired dishes, such as chef Alex Atala’s flower “ceviche” (Credit: Janet Forman)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p><strong>A mixed heritage</strong></p><p>Brazilians are immensely proud of their multi-ethnic heritage. It’s a country inhabited by people of widely diverse backgrounds, from Africa, Asia, Europe and the Middle East, along with more than 200 indigenous populations who also come from vastly different regions ranging from the Amazon’s rainforests to the savannas of the Cerrado to the watery Pantanal. All of their culinary wisdom has co-mingled to create a unique mother cuisine that modern Brazilian gastronomy advocates aim to honour, preserve and evolve for the future.</p><p>Just as Brazil’s population has come from all over the globe, so have many of its ingredients and cooking techniques. The seeds of <em>guandu</em> beans, for example, which improve the soil and add nitrogen to crops, are thought to have arrived hidden in the hair of slaves, said agronomist Malvezzi da Silva. And, according to Paim, the first “Brazilian” cooks were slaves in the kitchens of Portuguese nobility, who creatively adapted Portuguese, African and indigenous cuisines to available ingredients.</p><p>Indeed, some foods became a secret language for these slaves, who created sanctified dishes for <em>Candomblé,</em> a religion with African roots. According to chef Bel Coelho, these preparations are considered so sacred that they can only be cooked by a <em>yabasse, </em>a woman who has dedicated her life to learning the highly specific preferences of each Orixá, or representative of the Candomblé deity. The closest visitors may get to experiencing this fare is through tasting dinners at Coelho’s São Paulo restaurant <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/https://www.instagram.com/clandestinobr/?hl=en" target="_blank">Clandestino</a>, where she has devised her own recipes inspired by yabasse cooks. The restaurant is open only for one week each month; dining is by reservation only; and the exact dates are chosen one month in advance.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--landscape"><div id="travel/article/20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-p07ml0gl"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0gl.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0gl.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0gl.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0gl.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0gl.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0gl.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0gl.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0gl.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Many of Brazil’s food experts believe that manioc is the foundation of the country’s cuisine (Credit: INTERFOTO/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0gl.jpg" alt="Many of Brazil’s food experts believe that manioc is the foundation of the country’s cuisine (Credit: INTERFOTO/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">Many of Brazil’s food experts believe that manioc is the foundation of the country’s cuisine (Credit: INTERFOTO/Alamy)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>Chef Telma Shiraishi of São Paulo’s <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://www.aizome.com.br/site/" target="_blank">Restaurant Aizomê</a>, and now the Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador in Brazil, represents another populous group: immigrants from Japan. “Like many others, my grandparents came to Brazil as land workers on the coffee plantations,” she noted. “From my point of view, this country is formed by the fusion of native cultures and those of the varied populations that arrived over the centuries, creating this mosaic.”</p><p>“Even people who came in search of riches have left us immense treasures,” said chef Mônica Rangel of restaurant <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://www.gostocomgosto.com.br/" target="_blank">Gosto com Gosto</a>, 200km north-west of Rio de Janeiro.</p><p>Rangel believes that while they originally came to profit from Brazil’s natural resources, these mostly European people enriched the land by making use of it – such as by raising cattle and starting small cheese factories – and added their own cultural flourishes to traditional Brazilian foods.</p><p>Through its cuisine, Brazil has managed to embrace many cultures and nations. “It’s the kitchen of the <em>tropeiro</em> [drovers always on the move] but also of the court,” said Rangel. “And it is amidst these many historical flavours that the chef finds space to exercise fearless creativity.”</p><p><strong>Adapting the past to preserve the future</strong></p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__pull-quote"><blockquote class="inline-quote b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 inline-quote--travel"><h2 class="simple-header b-reith-sans-font b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 simple-header--serif-light-italic simple-p-tag--medium simple-p-tag--quote">Even people who came in search of riches have left us immense treasures</h2></blockquote></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>These prescient chefs believe that employing creativity – rather than strictly preserving traditions – will help Brazil’s culinary values endure. Indeed, their Pledge specifically defends “a free, creative cuisine that is open to influences and individual expressions”.</p><p>At Maní, Rizzo is inspired by indigenous peoples’ practice of cooking fish on banana leaf, but substitutes leaf of elephant ear, a nonconventional edible plant in the same family as mangarito. And Shiraishi gives traditional Japanese pickles a Brazilian spin using <em>maxixe</em>, a cucumber brought from Africa during the slave trade, and substituting <em>cachaça</em> (a distilled spirit made from sugarcane) for sake.</p><p>Some chefs are transforming indigenous ingredients into otherworldly dishes rarely seen on high-end degustation menus. Coelho, for instance, recreates <em>acarajé</em>, a black-eyed pea and bean dumpling traditionally made for Iansã, the goddess of wind and lightning, using the same ingredients of dendê oil, coconut milk, coriander, chilli and peanuts, but with molecular gastronomy techniques. For her version, Coelho makes a very thin black-eyed pea soup, then adds alginate and calcic, a calcium salt, to create a “liquid sphere”.</p><p>Paim addresses modern health concerns with her Shrimp Bobo dish, using manioc and dendê oil to create a creamy stew that is both gluten and lactose free.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--landscape"><div id="travel/article/20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-p07ml0dp"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0dp.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml0dp.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0dp.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml0dp.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0dp.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0dp.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0dp.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml0dp.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Brazil’s multi-ethnic culinary wisdom created a unique mother cuisine that modern Brazilian gastronomy advocates aim to honour (Credit: ton koene/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml0dp.jpg" alt="Brazil’s multi-ethnic culinary wisdom created a unique mother cuisine that modern Brazilian gastronomy advocates aim to honour (Credit: ton koene/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">Brazil’s multi-ethnic culinary wisdom created a unique mother cuisine that modern Brazilian gastronomy advocates aim to honour (Credit: ton koene/Alamy)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>Generally speaking, these Brazilian chefs believe their efforts to preserve and evolve culinary products and practices can have an impact far beyond their restaurant kitchens. And as such, several chefs are laying plans for the future in support of local communities and their ingredients.</p><p>Chef Ana Bueno of <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://restaurantebananadaterra.com.br/" target="_blank">Banana da Terra</a> in Paraty, for example, has established the <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://escoladecomer.com.br/" target="_blank">School of Eating</a> in Paraty to improve the nutrition of schoolchildren and educate them about healthy eating and local agriculture.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__pull-quote"><blockquote class="inline-quote b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 inline-quote--travel"><h2 class="simple-header b-reith-sans-font b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 simple-header--serif-light-italic simple-p-tag--medium simple-p-tag--quote">Preserving and sharing the food wisdom of our ancestors can offer solutions to some of the most pressing sustainability challenges we face today</h2></blockquote></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>And Rangel organised the <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://www.mauagastronomico.com.br/" target="_blank">Pinhão Festival</a> to celebrate the nut of the endangered Araucária tree. Over the last 26 years, the fete has grown from a one-woman enterprise at Rangel’s restaurant into a nationally known event that involves 42 restaurants, draws celebrity chefs and has helped transform Brazil’s Visconde de Mauádistrict in the countryside of Rio de Janeiro state into a thriving tourism centre.</p><p>“Preserving and sharing the food wisdom of our ancestors can offer solutions to some of the most pressing sustainability challenges we face today,” said chef Manu Buffara, a farmer’s daughter who now runs <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://www.restaurantemanu.com.br/" target="_blank">Restaurant Manu</a> in her native town of Curitiba<strong>.</strong> “Much of what is lost is forgotten,” she warned, so we must continually revisit our culture and our roots.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--landscape"><div id="travel/article/20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-p07ml087"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml087.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p07ml087.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml087.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p07ml087.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml087.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml087.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml087.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p07ml087.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Chefs believe that employing creativity – rather than strictly preserving traditions – will help Brazil’s culinary values endure (Credit: Janet Forman)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p07ml087.jpg" alt="Chefs believe that employing creativity – rather than strictly preserving traditions – will help Brazil’s culinary values endure (Credit: Janet Forman)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">Chefs believe that employing creativity – rather than strictly preserving traditions – will help Brazil’s culinary values endure (Credit: Janet Forman)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>Yet, even as they respect their country’s culinary roots, Brazil’s chefs thrive on innovation. Inspired to use ancient ingredients in new ways they are galvanising one another, sending a wave of madly inventive cuisine across the country.</p><p>There’s poetry in the way Brazilians speak of food, lifting this basic human need to a far higher plane. In the words of Malvezzi da Silva: “Food is the bond of the human being with nature, through which we are regaining consciousness of who we are and where we should go.”</p><p><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/ancient-eats" target="_blank">Ancient Eats</a><em> is a BBC Travel series that puts trendy foods back into their ‘authentic’ context, exploring the cultures and traditions where they were born.</em></p><p><em>Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on </em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/https://www.facebook.com/BBCTravel/" target="_blank">Facebook</a><em>, or follow us on </em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/https://twitter.com/BBC_Travel" target="_blank">Twitter</a><em> and </em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/https://www.instagram.com/bbc_travel/" target="_blank">Instagram</a><em>.</em></p><p><em>If you liked this story, </em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/http://pages.emails.bbc.com/subscribe/?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup" target="_blank">sign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter</a><em> called "The Essential List". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.</em></p><p><em></em></p></div><div><p></p></div></div></div></div><div class="article__end"><div class="article-end article-end--desktop"><div class="article-end__line--long"><div class="styled-line styled-line--travel styled-line--medium"></div></div><div class="article-end__share-tools"><div class="article-share-tools article-share-tools--popout article-share-tools--dark"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220525081235/mailto:/?subject=Shared from BBC:Brazil:%20The%20last%20frontier%20of%20gastronomy?&body=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bbc.com%2Ftravel%2Farticle%2F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy%3Focid%3Dww.social.link.email" class="email-icon gelicon--mail" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" id=""><span class="screen-reader-only">Share using Email</span><div id="EmailIcon"></div></a><a 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Eveleigh)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0c03px1","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c03px1.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355541},"p0bz59g4":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bz59g4","_id":"6267de9e1f4b7b0ccb51d29a","copyright":"Haris Čalkić","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbz\u002F59\u002Fp0bz59g4.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Haris Čalkić)","synopsisMedium":"Preserved in glass jars, ajvar is considered a \"winter food\" but is eaten year-round (Credit: Haris Čalkić)","synopsisShort":"Preserved in glass jars, ajvar is considered a \"winter food\" but is eaten year-round","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bz59g4.jpg","title":"Preserved in glass jars, ajvar is considered a \"winter food\" but is eaten year-round","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bz59g4","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bz59g4.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355542},"p0bz59j8":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bz59j8","_id":"6267de4c1f4b7b5ad67cdab2","copyright":"Haris Čalkić","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbz\u002F59\u002Fp0bz59j8.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Haris Čalkić)","synopsisMedium":"Whether the ajvar will have a sweet or spicy taste depends on the type of pepper used (Credit: Haris Čalkić)","synopsisShort":"Whether the ajvar will have a sweet or spicy taste depends on the type of pepper used","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bz59j8.jpg","title":"Whether the ajvar will have a sweet or spicy taste depends on the type of pepper used","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bz59j8","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bz59j8.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355542},"p0bz59dz":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bz59dz","_id":"6267de4d1f4b7b52a96e7dfd","copyright":"Haris Čalkić","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbz\u002F59\u002Fp0bz59dz.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Haris Čalkić)","synopsisMedium":"The ajvar vegetables are cooked, peeled and then ground together with the remaining ingredients (Credit: Haris Čalkić)","synopsisShort":"The ajvar vegetables are cooked, peeled and then ground together","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bz59dz.jpg","title":"The ajvar vegetables are cooked, peeled and then ground together with the remaining ingredients","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bz59dz","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bz59dz.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355542},"p0bz59fk":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bz59fk","_id":"6267de5a1f4b7b671c12c1c0","copyright":"Haris Čalkić","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbz\u002F59\u002Fp0bz59fk.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Haris Čalkić)","synopsisMedium":"Growing in popularity, ajvar is suitable for vegetarians and vegans and doesn't contain gluten (Credit: Haris Čalkić)","synopsisShort":"Ajvar is suitable for vegetarians and vegans and doesn't contain gluten","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bz59fk.jpg","title":"Growing in popularity, ajvar is suitable for vegetarians and vegans and doesn't contain gluten","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bz59fk","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bz59fk.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355542},"p0bz59hc":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bz59hc","_id":"6267de741f4b7b6735592a02","copyright":"Haris Čalkić","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbz\u002F59\u002Fp0bz59hc.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Haris Čalkić)","synopsisMedium":"Ajvar has become a source of pride and comfort, and offers a sense of belonging (Credit: Haris Čalkić)","synopsisShort":"Ajvar has become a source of pride and comfort, and offers a sense of belonging","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bz59hc.jpg","title":"Ajvar has become a source of pride and comfort, and offers a sense of belonging","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bz59hc","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bz59hc.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355542},"p0bz59gn":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bz59gn","_id":"6267de4d1f4b7b526b3f2163","copyright":"Haris Čalkić","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbz\u002F59\u002Fp0bz59gn.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Haris Čalkić)","synopsisMedium":"Ajvar is a widely popular vegetable delicacy in the Balkans (Credit: Haris Čalkić)","synopsisShort":"Ajvar is a widely popular vegetable delicacy in the Balkans","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bz59gn.jpg","title":"Ajvar is a widely popular vegetable delicacy in the Balkans","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bz59gn","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220525081235\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bz59gn.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355542}},"articles":{"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy","_id":"6267df6f1f4b7b1d951072a3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjanet-forman"],"bodyIntro":"As Brazil’s food community unites to help save ancient ingredients, it has inspired new ways to use them, sending a wave of madly inventive cuisine across the country.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChefs and researchers are stunned: those ancient tales of little-known South American flora with magical-sounding properties turned out to be true.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJambú\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, for example, a grassy-flavoured herb that traditional cooks pair with duck is also a tingling anaesthetic. “Here we say, ‘it makes you tremble’,” revealed Joanna Martins, head of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.institutopaulomartins.org.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPaulo Martins Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the study of indigenous and Amazonian ingredients. Scientists are investigating the plant for use in toothpaste, pharmaceuticals and even erotic wares, she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECrajiru\u003C\u002Fem\u003E vine, whose leaves are consumed as a tea and is also used as body paint, impresses agronomist and farmer Keila Malvezzi da Silva for its ability to increase iron absorption.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd many chefs are fascinated by \u003Cem\u003Eora-pro-nobis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a member of the cactus family known as “poor people’s meat” for its 25% protein content and for having four times the Vitamin C of oranges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07ml0cm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-latin-america-49433767\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Amazon in Brazil is on fire – how bad is it?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181127-the-acai-seller-who-got-a-record-deal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe acai seller who got a record deal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180917-the-rarest-fabric-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA plan to preserve Peru’s prized vicuna\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E“\u003C\u002Fem\u003EThese [indigenous] communities possess a profound knowledge of the forest – an understanding we haven’t even dreamed of,” said chef Alex Atala. A former punk-rocker, Atala is as renowned for his study of Brazil’s indigenous ingredients as for restaurant \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fdomrestaurante.com.br\u002Fpt-br\u002Fhome.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ED.O.M.\u003C\u002Fa\u003E’s two Michelin stars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I entered the São Paulo restaurant’s dining room, I saw bare glass tables supported by tree stumps, decor ranging from tomes by French chef August Escoffier to Elvis albums, and guests sporting suits and T-shirts, pearls and tattoos. I got the distinct sense that nothing here was going to be ordinary.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut after consuming intriguing, yet accessible, locally inspired dishes such as flower “ceviche” made with stingless bee honey and humped-backed Zebu beef, so tender it’s served with a spoon, I was stopped dead in my tracks by dessert: there were ants on my plate. I closed my eyes and downed the first little creature. After the disquieting sensation of scratchy legs brushing my throat came a surprise in the form of a mouth-filling burst of citrus and ginger. My gastronomic journey to Brazil had begun with a bungee jump out of my comfort zone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07ml0d1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBrazil is a vast, fecund land, with much of the most remote parts of its 8.5 million sq km known only to inhabitants of indigenous communities and \u003Cem\u003Equilombos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, settlements created by former African slaves. Brazil is said to possess 20% of the Earth’s species, which compels the food community to learn all it can.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Catalan chef Ferran Adrià, considered one of the world’s best and most pioneering chefs, the Amazon is “the last frontier of gastronomy”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet, this still-unlocked treasure chest – that is deeply embedded in rural Brazilian culture and is the economic support system of many villages – is being threatened by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-latin-america-49433767\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edevastating forest fires\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, cattle ranching, mining, logging and other forms of human intrusion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"These indigenous communities possess a profound knowledge of the forest – an understanding we haven’t even dreamed of","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome worry that the proliferation of processed food is threatening indigenous cuisine. “The fast food movement broke into our way of feeding ourselves and we have to reverse that,” said chef Irene Nunes, who runs the hillside \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fcaminhodasgeraissap\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECaminho das Gerais\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant several hours from São Paulo, where she puts her own twist on rustic cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn an effort to save the country’s endangered products and culinary skills before they vanish, Brazil’s most prominent gastronomy professionals are taking action. Near the end of 2018, Georges Schnyder, head of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.slowfoodbrasil.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlow Food Brasil\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, proclaimed the Pledge in Defense of the Culinary Culture of Brasil. Akin to the 2004 \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.newnordicfood.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EManifesto for the New Nordic Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E signed by 12 Nordic chefs, including world-renowned Danish chef René Redzepi, it reaches far beyond cuisine to preserve this country’s agrarian roots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Cooking is not about having a recipe,” Schnyder asserted. “It’s culture, it’s sustainability, and this ‘manifesto’ is designed to recognise family growers as the basis of the food chain, and assure that their children can remain in the fields.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07ml0dw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs fires rage in the Amazon, the need to act is even more pressing. According to Atala, “There is a significant increase in deforested areas, and we must deal with this problem responsibly and not turn the issue into an ideological dispute.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPreserving traditions\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn support of the Pledge, many chefs are launching parallel careers as explorers, travelling deep into the country’s hinterlands to find and help preserve indigenous plants and artisan products by using them in their restaurants – often elevating or transforming them – and which in turn supports local producers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn São Paolo, there’s a futuristic air to Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fmanimanioca.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EManí\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where model-turned-chef Helena Rizzo transforms local ingredients like \u003Cem\u003Emanioc\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (cassava) into such uniquely daring dishes that patrons wait willingly for hours to eat. Rizzo has said she feels it’s crazy to think that 90% of the world’s diet comes from only a handful of species such as corn, rice and wheat. “Ingredients like arrowroot and \u003Cem\u003Emangarito\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [a relative of the yam], are important not only as ingredients but as a part of culture and food biodiversity. We still can find and cook with them, but I don’t know until when. We have already lost so many ingredients...”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07ml0b3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany of Brazil’s food experts believe that manioc is the foundation of the country’s cuisine. Its myriad monikers, such as \u003Cem\u003Emani, maniva, aipim, mandioca \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eand\u003Cem\u003E macaxeira,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and countless by-products, including tapioca\u003Cem\u003E, polvilhos \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(tapioca flour), \u003Cem\u003Etucupí\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a yellow sauce) and\u003Cem\u003E tiquira\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (an alcoholic beverage), are a testament to its ubiquity. While not yet endangered, manioc is so crucial to Brazilian cuisine that the Pledge specifically cites it as “the iconic product of our ancestral and indigenous culture”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s the one ingredient that has always been present in all social classes,” said Atala. “We peel it, grate it and press it to obtain a starch [that] we call tapioca. When fermented, the broth becomes tucupí\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and the pulp is transformed into manioc flour. Its versatility is impressive.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EChef Tereza Paim’s Salvador restaurant is another safe harbour for traditional foods. At \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.casadetereza.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECasa de Tereza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, she uses hand-drawn \u003Cem\u003Edendê\u003C\u002Fem\u003E oil (palm oil), turning any left over from cooking into soap for customers and employees to use. She believes that this oil, brought to Brazil by the Portuguese from Africa during the slave trade, is an ingredient that must never be lost, as its distinctive scent of violets and wine-red colour is a hallmark of traditional Brazilian cuisine, particularly in Bahia state.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShe calls it “number one of my heart”, and sees its reddish hue as “painting our food with the colour palette of sunset at All Saints Bay”, the body of water fringing part of the city of Salvador, where food and culture imported during the slave era still thrive. According to Paim, local dendê oil “tells us every day that we are Afro-descendants”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07ml097"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA mixed heritage\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBrazilians are immensely proud of their multi-ethnic heritage. It’s a country inhabited by people of widely diverse backgrounds, from Africa, Asia, Europe and the Middle East, along with more than 200 indigenous populations who also come from vastly different regions ranging from the Amazon’s rainforests to the savannas of the Cerrado to the watery Pantanal. All of their culinary wisdom has co-mingled to create a unique mother cuisine that modern Brazilian gastronomy advocates aim to honour, preserve and evolve for the future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJust as Brazil’s population has come from all over the globe, so have many of its ingredients and cooking techniques. The seeds of \u003Cem\u003Eguandu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E beans, for example, which improve the soil and add nitrogen to crops, are thought to have arrived hidden in the hair of slaves, said agronomist Malvezzi da Silva. And, according to Paim, the first “Brazilian” cooks were slaves in the kitchens of Portuguese nobility, who creatively adapted Portuguese, African and indigenous cuisines to available ingredients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, some foods became a secret language for these slaves, who created sanctified dishes for \u003Cem\u003ECandomblé,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a religion with African roots. According to chef Bel Coelho, these preparations are considered so sacred that they can only be cooked by a \u003Cem\u003Eyabasse, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ea woman who has dedicated her life to learning the highly specific preferences of each Orixá, or representative of the Candomblé deity. The closest visitors may get to experiencing this fare is through tasting dinners at Coelho’s São Paulo restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fclandestinobr\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClandestino\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where she has devised her own recipes inspired by yabasse cooks. The restaurant is open only for one week each month; dining is by reservation only; and the exact dates are chosen one month in advance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07ml0gl"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChef Telma Shiraishi of São Paulo’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.aizome.com.br\u002Fsite\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERestaurant Aizomê\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and now the Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador in Brazil, represents another populous group: immigrants from Japan. “Like many others, my grandparents came to Brazil as land workers on the coffee plantations,” she noted. “From my point of view, this country is formed by the fusion of native cultures and those of the varied populations that arrived over the centuries, creating this mosaic.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Even people who came in search of riches have left us immense treasures,” said chef Mônica Rangel of restaurant \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gostocomgosto.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGosto com Gosto\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, 200km north-west of Rio de Janeiro.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERangel believes that while they originally came to profit from Brazil’s natural resources, these mostly European people enriched the land by making use of it – such as by raising cattle and starting small cheese factories – and added their own cultural flourishes to traditional Brazilian foods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThrough its cuisine, Brazil has managed to embrace many cultures and nations. “It’s the kitchen of the \u003Cem\u003Etropeiro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [drovers always on the move] but also of the court,” said Rangel. “And it is amidst these many historical flavours that the chef finds space to exercise fearless creativity.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAdapting the past to preserve the future\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Even people who came in search of riches have left us immense treasures","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese prescient chefs believe that employing creativity – rather than strictly preserving traditions – will help Brazil’s culinary values endure. Indeed, their Pledge specifically defends “a free, creative cuisine that is open to influences and individual expressions”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt Maní, Rizzo is inspired by indigenous peoples’ practice of cooking fish on banana leaf, but substitutes leaf of elephant ear, a nonconventional edible plant in the same family as mangarito. And Shiraishi gives traditional Japanese pickles a Brazilian spin using \u003Cem\u003Emaxixe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a cucumber brought from Africa during the slave trade, and substituting \u003Cem\u003Ecachaça\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a distilled spirit made from sugarcane) for sake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome chefs are transforming indigenous ingredients into otherworldly dishes rarely seen on high-end degustation menus. Coelho, for instance, recreates \u003Cem\u003Eacarajé\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a black-eyed pea and bean dumpling traditionally made for Iansã, the goddess of wind and lightning, using the same ingredients of dendê oil, coconut milk, coriander, chilli and peanuts, but with molecular gastronomy techniques. For her version, Coelho makes a very thin black-eyed pea soup, then adds alginate and calcic, a calcium salt, to create a “liquid sphere”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPaim addresses modern health concerns with her Shrimp Bobo dish, using manioc and dendê oil to create a creamy stew that is both gluten and lactose free.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07ml0dp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGenerally speaking, these Brazilian chefs believe their efforts to preserve and evolve culinary products and practices can have an impact far beyond their restaurant kitchens. And as such, several chefs are laying plans for the future in support of local communities and their ingredients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EChef Ana Bueno of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Frestaurantebananadaterra.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBanana da Terra\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Paraty, for example, has established the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fescoladecomer.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchool of Eating\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Paraty to improve the nutrition of schoolchildren and educate them about healthy eating and local agriculture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Preserving and sharing the food wisdom of our ancestors can offer solutions to some of the most pressing sustainability challenges we face today","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd Rangel organised the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.mauagastronomico.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPinhão Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to celebrate the nut of the endangered Araucária tree. Over the last 26 years, the fete has grown from a one-woman enterprise at Rangel’s restaurant into a nationally known event that involves 42 restaurants, draws celebrity chefs and has helped transform Brazil’s Visconde de Mauádistrict in the countryside of Rio de Janeiro state into a thriving tourism centre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Preserving and sharing the food wisdom of our ancestors can offer solutions to some of the most pressing sustainability challenges we face today,” said chef Manu Buffara, a farmer’s daughter who now runs \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.restaurantemanu.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERestaurant Manu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in her native town of Curitiba\u003Cstrong\u003E.\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E “Much of what is lost is forgotten,” she warned, so we must continually revisit our culture and our roots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07ml087"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, even as they respect their country’s culinary roots, Brazil’s chefs thrive on innovation. Inspired to use ancient ingredients in new ways they are galvanising one another, sending a wave of madly inventive cuisine across the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere’s poetry in the way Brazilians speak of food, lifting this basic human need to a far higher plane. In the words of Malvezzi da Silva: “Food is the bond of the human being with nature, through which we are regaining consciousness of who we are and where we should go.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-eats\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Eats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that puts trendy foods back into their ‘authentic’ context, exploring the cultures and traditions where they were born.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy-22"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-eats"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-10-08T18:29:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Brazil: The last frontier of gastronomy?","headlineShort":"The last frontier of gastronomy?","image":["p07ml0gl"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6267dfc91f4b7b565656c4b5"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p07ml0gl"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"As Brazil’s food community unites to help save ancient ingredients, it has inspired new ways to use them, sending a wave of madly inventive cuisine across the country.","summaryShort":"This still unlocked treasure chest is being threatened","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fcultural-traditions"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:38:33.029754Z","entity":"article","guid":"d6992ea3-4f6f-41cc-a6a7-508ac4d19ac1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:57:36.368656Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191007-brazil-the-last-frontier-of-gastronomy","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbrazil"],"destinationStat":"south-america_brazil","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355431},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate","_id":"6267df821f4b7b2995507575","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Pure Nacional tree once at the heart of South America’s chocolate industry was believed to have been lost forever – until it was recently rediscovered by accident.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETravelling to the Marañón Canyon in northern Peru is like stepping back in time. Mud-brick houses dot the hilly landscape. Electricity, which arrived in this area just three years ago, is only available in a few homes, and supply can be inconsistent. It only works about five days a week and you never know which five days these will be. And with few paved roads, residents of this remote region rely on mules and bicycles for transportation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat the Marañón Canyon has remained relatively untouched by modernity has been a blessing, as it is here that the Pure Nacional tree, which produces some of the world’s rarest cacao, has flourished.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190722-the-worlds-most-expensive-wine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world’s most expensive wine?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190710-the-strange-story-of-britains-oldest-sweet\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBritain’s oldest (and oddest) sweet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180924-indias-rare-tea-picked-under-a-full-moon\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe mystical tea that fetches $1,850\u002Fkg\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis ancient cacao tree originated in the Amazon jungle and holds the distinction of being the oldest and rarest variety, its existence dating back at least 5,300 years. Between the 17th and 19th Centuries, the Pure Nacional was widely cultivated in Ecuador, where its coveted pods helped fuel what was then the world’s largest supply of cacao. But then disaster struck: disease spread through Ecuador’s cacao forests, decimating the highly susceptible Pure Nacional. Through cross-breeding with hardier cacao varieties, farmers were able to eventually stop the spread of the disease, but the new, cross-bred trees no longer produced the high-quality cacao of the Pure Nacional.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy the early 20th Century, experts declared the Pure Nacional tree extinct, and it was believed that its delectable cacao was lost forever.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUntil recently.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2007, two Americans, Dan Pearson and his stepson Brian Horsley, were supplying gear and food to mining companies around the Marañón Canyon in northern Peru near the Ecuador border when they happened upon a strange-looking tree that had football-sized pods growing out of its trunk. Perplexed and unsure what they were looking at, Pearson and Horsley sent several samples to the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) to get some answers. To everyone’s amazement, the samples were confirmed to belong to the Pure Nacional tree.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENestled among the jagged Andean peaks, the Marañón River (which happens to be the headwater of the Amazon River) has carved the Marañón Canyon, creating a natural boundary that saved a small group of Pure Nacional trees from disease. Nobody could quite believe that these two men had stumbled upon the long-lost cacao tree. “When they called with genetic test results and asked, ‘Are you sitting down?’ I knew we had found something special,” Pearson said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECacao trees originated in the Amazon rainforest, which stretches across much of modern-day Peru. But unlike the Mayas and Aztecs, who fermented, roasted and ground cacao to make a bitter drink used in religious rituals, Peru’s ancient Incas aren’t thought to have widely consumed it. Sixteenth-Century Spanish missionaries considered the Mayan beverage to be rather loathsome, but when sugar was added to it after it was shipped to Spain, chocolate became a hit the world over and a global industry was born – an industry that for the next few centuries was dominated by chocolate produced with beans of the Pure Nacional..\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I knew we had found something special","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat’s because, while most cacao tree pods contain only purple beans, the Pure Nacional trees also produce white beans renowned for their fruity, floral flavour and lack of bitterness. Having survived in isolation for a century, the Pure Nacional trees in the Marañón Canyon developed a genetic mutation causing them to produce pods with a significantly higher white bean-to-purple bean ratio than the trees that had been cultivated in Ecuador centuries before.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFinding these trees was the beginning of Pearson and Horsley’s journey into the world of chocolate. The tree that Pearson and Horsley stumbled upon still stands on the property of a local farmer named Don Fortunato. Using seedlings from what they now call the “mother tree”, the two men founded \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.maranonchocolate.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMarañón Chocolate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and began to propagate the Pure Nacional population in the canyon. Working with local farmers like Fortunato, Pearson and Horsley learned how to care for the trees at their nursery and how to ferment and dry the precious cacao beans once they had been harvested.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOnce these steps had been mastered, Pearson then travelled to Switzerland to have the beans made into a one-of-a-kind chocolate by a renowned chocolate maker. This chocolatier, who Pearson prefers not to name, had been recommended to him by Franz Ziegler, an award-winning author and world-renowned pastry chef, and his colleague Paul Edwards of Chef Rubber, a culinary supply company.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In our combined 50 years of working with chocolate, we have never tasted flavours like this,” Zeigler and Edwards said \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.prnewswire.com\u002Fnews-releases\u002Fchocolate-thought-to-be-extinct-rediscovered-in-peru-112189619.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ein a 2011 statement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E when the chocolate was unveiled at the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) in the United States. “We had to experience this ourselves so we both travelled to Peru, met the farm families, saw the trees, the white beans and the genetic test and then watched the next evolution in post-harvesting processing that they developed. We saw the past and the future of chocolate.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Pearson and Horsley continue to cultivate their Pure Nacional trees and harvest the cacao beans according to local tradition – a process that visitors can witness between mid-January and early June. During harvest season, more than 400 farmers who supply beans to Marañón Chocolate rise at dawn to hand cut the pods from the trees using long bamboo poles with curved blades at their tips. The pods are left unopened until either Pearson or Horsley arrive to inspect the pods and ensure they contain the correct proportion of white beans. The beans are then extracted by hand, and Pearson or Horsley purchase them from the farmers on the spot, paying almost 50% above the local market price to support the farmers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe harvested beans are carried a few kilometres from the farms to the Marañón Chocolate processing facility, first by \u003Cem\u003Eburros\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (small donkeys) and then by motorcycle. They are then dried and fermented before being shipped to the chocolate maker in Switzerland. There, the beans are further processed using an antique conching machine (a machine designed to mix and aerate liquid chocolate) from 1879 to produce the final product: Fortunato No 4. Marañón Chocolate’s signature product is named in honour of Don Fortunato, and because the USDA declared the fourth genetic sample that was sent by Pearson for testing to be the legendary lost cacao.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's the Rolex of chocolate","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChocolate experts around the world have commended Fortunato No 4 for its rich flavour, smooth texture and lack of bitterness. Swiss pastry chef Roger Von Rotz described it as “the Rolex of chocolate”, while Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio said upon sampling it: “I just tried the best chocolate I’ve had in my whole life.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe sale of Fortunato No 4 is limited to elite chocolate makers who then mould it into consumer-friendly creations and make it available to buyers through online sales channels or in their local stores. You can acquire chocolate made from Pure Nacional pods from vendors like \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.moonstruckchocolate.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoonstruck Chocolate Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the US, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fanvers-chocolate.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHouse of Anvers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Australia and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.solkiki.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESolkiki Chocolatemaker\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the UK. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo be the home of the world’s rarest chocolate fills the Marañón Canyon community with great pride. Thanks to their unique cacao beans, their stature has increased internationally as a result of the recognition they have received from world-renowned chocolatiers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDon Fortunato, who collects royalties from sales of Fortunato No 4, is a particularly happy man. “It has helped me financially and it has made me famous,” he said with a proud smile on his face. To this day he continues to care for the Pure Nacional tree on his property, watching over the “mother” of the chocolate that came back from the dead.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECORRECTION:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E A previous version of this story implied that the Mayans lived in Peru. They lived in Mexico and Central America. We regret the error.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-09-17T19:12:18Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The world’s most exquisite chocolate?","headlineShort":"The ‘Rolex’ of chocolate","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Pure Nacional tree once at the heart of South America’s chocolate industry was believed to have been lost forever – until it was recently rediscovered by accident.","summaryShort":"“We have never tasted flavours like this”","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:37:42.571963Z","entity":"article","guid":"16e85e2a-e098-4efa-8114-58ce62c334de","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:56:44.151084Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355532},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community","_id":"6267df971f4b7b334a3b2eb4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"When West Africans on their way to the New World’s slave markets escaped in 1635, they intermarried with Caribbean islanders to create a new and distinct culture.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe boats came at dawn along the shores of the town of Dangriga on the coast of Belize.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOnboard, vibrantly dressed men, women and children carried homemade flags and waved bright green fronds of coconut palm branches as they approached the shore. On land, a crowd waited, ready to cheer as feet stepped out of the boats to touch sand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We were never enslaved – that is a point of pride for the Garifuna people","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a similar morning in 1832, the Garifuna people – descendants of Carib, Arawak and West African people – made the same journey from St Vincent Island in the Caribbean, finally able to call Belize home after being turned away by the British government three times. Every year on 19 November, the Garifuna celebrate Garifuna Settlement Day, marking their arrival in Belize (which was then a British colony) and their many contributions to the Belizean landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith this re-enactment of the boat landing, as well as oral history intoned by village elders and music, dancing and food, the national holiday attracts visitors from throughout Belize and the world. It immerses them in why the culture is so unique – and why its people are fighting to keep their heritage alive in an increasingly modern world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180904-the-sinking-islands-of-the-southern-us\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe US islands of slave descendants\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180821-malana-a-himalayan-village-shrouded-in-myth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe descendants of Alexander the Great?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180813-guna-yala-the-islands-where-women-make-the-rules\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe islands with a ‘third gender’\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAsk most Garifuna people and historians about the creation of the Garifuna people, and the common story is that West Africans on their way to the New World’s slave markets escaped after two ships wrecked in 1635. Of the hundreds of slaves, those who managed to survive swam to the Caribbean island of St Vincent where they were welcomed by the Carib and Arawak people and created a distinct culture of food, music, dance and language.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.garifunaheritagefoundation.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGarifuna American Heritage Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Los Angeles suggests Mali Empire Africans may have arrived on the island as early as the 1200s and the shipwrecks just added to the population. Other historians say the shipwreck story is the result of centuries of oral storytelling and that St Vincent wasn’t even near any regular slave trade routes. Whatever the truth, the shipwreck belief remains the ‘accepted’ history for the majority of Garifuna people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We were never enslaved,” said H Gilbert Swaso, former mayor of Dangriga and historian of the Garifuna culture. “That is a point of pride for the Garifuna people.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA 1660 British peace treaty granted ‘perpetual possession’ of the Caribbean island of St Vincent to the Garifuna, but less than 10 years later broke the treaty and reclaimed the island. In 1796, after years of raids and skirmishes with the British, the Garifuna – who were by then the dominant population on the island after generations of intermarrying with the islanders – were defeated, then deported and marooned on the Spanish-owned Honduran island of Roatán.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite being left on a strange shore, they again flourished, and again they were persecuted. Following \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-latin-america-18954311\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea republican revolt in Honduras in 1821\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Garifuna took flight once more, and in 1832, arrived on the Belize coast. They embraced their new home with optimism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The Garifuna requested to settle in Belize and were turned away three times,” Swaso said. “At some point, the government admitted the Garifuna to Belize, but they had to stay away from the main cities, and if they did enter the city, they needed a pass. So, the Garifuna settled south, and one of the largest settlements was in Dangriga and then Punta Gorda.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe fight to have the Garifuna culture recognised officially by the Belize government wasn’t easy. Even though they were accepted into the country, the Garifuna were discriminated against and fought to keep their heritage. The Garifuna language, which comes from the Arawak and Carib languages of their island ancestors, was discouraged in schools, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fngcbelize.org\u002Fthe-culture\u002Freligion-and-spirituality\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etheir spirituality\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was condemned by churches.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When the Garifuna suffered spiritual discrimination by the Roman Catholics [which was then Belize’s dominant religion], we incorporated some of their saints into our religion and survived,” Swaso said. “When we were discriminated from entering cities, we created our own cities. When we were discriminated against in schools, we became teachers and lawyers and doctors. We will accommodate and change what is necessary for us to survive without sacrificing our culture.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the global population of Garifuna is about 300,000, with many found in Belize and Honduras as well as parts of Guatemala and Nicaragua. According to a 2010 census report published by \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fsib.org.bz\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2017\u002F05\u002FCensus_Report_2010.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Statistical Institute of Belize\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, of the county’s total population of around 324,500, an estimated 6.1% are Garifuna. Today, the Garifuna are accepted and celebrated in Belize and are involved in every aspect of life, serving as teachers, doctors, government officials and business owners. The first official celebration of Settlement Day was in 1941 in the Stann Creek district, according to Swaso. Two years later, in 1943, Punta Gorda, located 167km south, was also granted the holiday. And in 1977, Garifuna Settlement Day officially became a public holiday throughout Belize. Honduras has a similar celebration that is celebrated on 12 April, the date the Garifuna were marooned on Roatán.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn this day in Belize, Swaso explained that the re-enactment of the boat landing is followed by a special mass attended only by the Garifuna and high-ranking government officials.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen, the party starts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHands pound on the drums and hips snap like scarves to the thumping paranda and punta rhythms – a blend of Caribbean and African beats – while the eateries serve up traditional dishes like cow foot soup and \u003Cem\u003Ehudut\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a coconut milk stew made with beaten plantains and vegetables like okra).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We are a very visual people, and we have floats depicting the culture with drumming and music,” Swaso told me. “Once the parade is over, the streets become a carnival with food, crafts, different drinks and things like that. There is a lot of music and dancing and festivities.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe colourful costumes and traditional dance have turned Settlement Day into a ‘mini-Rio’, and the celebrations often continue into the next day. Thousands of people flood into the Garifuna towns from districts all over Belize and the world, making it one of the country’s biggest international events.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s also the perfect time to taste dishes found only in the Garifuna culture, which are as much of a draw as the pageantry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Our food is very different from the rest of Belize,” Swaso said. “Our food is organic, clean. Hudut is one of our main dishes, prepared using organic ingredients like ripe and green plantains that are boiled and then beaten and then mixed together. We grate fresh coconut to make a gravy, and it’s spiced with basil, oregano and okra. Everything comes from the land or the sea – that is how the Garifuna eat, by and large.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe explained that Garifuna still use traditional fishing and farming methods put in place by ancestors, like line fishing or diving for rock lobsters (only harvesting the mature ones). Plantains are still beaten by hand, and cassava bread is prepared in much the same way as the Garifuna women did it hundreds of years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Swaso, that simplicity and respect for nature gives the cuisine – which draws from local crops like cassava and plantains – its distinct flavour and personality.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESwaso, as well as many others, have a personal mission to pass on the Garifuna culture to children and outsiders. To help keep his heritage alive he hosts cultural music and dance classes, speaks on the history of his people and pushes for Garifuna to be taught in schools.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There is not going to be an end to anything – we evolve","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Swaso is worried that the Garifuna language, like so many other ethnic languages, will disappear. Despite Unesco proclaiming it (as well as Garifuna music and dance) to be among the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fich.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002FRL\u002Flanguage-dance-and-music-of-the-garifuna-00001\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMasterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2001, most young people don’t speak the tongue, preferring to speak Caribbean Creole, Spanish and English instead.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“While it appears we are losing our culture, different aspects of our culture will always remain,” Swaso said. “There is not going to be an end to anything. We evolve. It will allow us to continue to live our traditional way of life.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEditor's Note:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E This story appeared on BBC.com Homepage with a summary misstating that the Garifuna was the only Afro-Caribbean community that was not enslaved. We regret the error.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Four-unique-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOur Unique World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that celebrates what makes us different and distinctive by exploring offbeat subcultures and obscure communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-11-19T20:16:30Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Belize’s thriving Afro-Caribbean community","headlineShort":"The shipwreck that created a culture","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"When West Africans on their way to the New World’s slave markets escaped in 1635, they intermarried with Caribbean islanders to create a new and distinct culture.","summaryShort":"They’ve needed to constantly change and adapt to find a home","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:25:49.616308Z","entity":"article","guid":"249a1536-d799-4c5f-9a26-6b47e83b2cff","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:39:55.084409Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355532},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions","_id":"6267dfc01f4b7b4ec9277996","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Alfajores are synonymous with Argentina – the biggest producer and consumer – where they are as central to the national culinary identity as steak and Malbec.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChocolatier Maria Romero's eyes gleamed as she drifted back to her childhood in Quilmes, a city in Buenos Aires province, and her first encounters with \u003Cem\u003Ealfajores\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. “My first memory of eating them was when I was little,” she said. “We had these \u003Cem\u003Ekioscos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [small convenience stores] inside the school and would run over at breaktime to buy an alfajor. I have a very strong memory of standing and listening to the children shouting out the names of the different brands – Jorgito, Capitán del Espacio, Fantoche. If you were hungry, needed something sweet, felt sad, you bought one. Sometimes you just need an alfajor to survive.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn its most common form, an Argentine alfajor is a pair of soft, crumbly biscuits sandwiching a layer of \u003Cem\u003Edulce de leche\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a thick, super-sweet caramel-like confection) and covered with chocolate or dusted with sugar or desiccated coconut. Romero describes alfajores as “biscakes” – a cross between a biscuit and a cake – and has turned them into a career. After working for the likes of the Savoy in London, luxury chocolate-makers Artisan du Chocolat and Rococo and the Hilton in Buenos Aires, she now runs UK-based \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsurchocolates.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESur Chocolates\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which produces gourmet alfajores.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERomero places alfajores alongside Malbec wine, beef and \u003Cem\u003Eyerba mate\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (an incredibly popular herbal tea) in Argentina’s culinary pantheon – and she’s not alone. Approximately one billion alfajores are sold in Argentina every year, according to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fturismo.buenosaires.gob.ar\u002Fen\u002Farticle\u002Falfajor-nation’s-passion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBuenos Aires tourist board\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and hundreds of varieties are available in kioscos, supermarkets and bakeries across the country, from the icy realms of Tierra del Fuego in the far south to the high, arid plains of Jujuy in the extreme north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You can find them everywhere,” said Buenos Aires-based food writer and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpickupthefork.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPick Up The Fork\u003C\u002Fa\u003E blogger Allie Lazar. “Every kiosco sells a great selection of alfajores. Most Argentines have quite the sweet tooth and dulce de leche is basically a national treasure, so alfajores have long been the perfect quick treat or snack. They’re also a great accompaniment to contrast yerba mate, which tends to be quite bitter.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200616-the-complex-origins-of-beloved-churros\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe fried dough the world loves\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170910-the-remote-ranch-at-the-bottom-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe remote ranch at the bottom of the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200506-a-javanese-dish-to-banish-the-plague\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe dish that ended the plague\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlfajores are an integral part of Argentine popular culture, appearing in works as diverse as Jorge Luis Borges’ short story The Aleph and the much-loved Mafalda comic strip. When he was a youngster, one of Lionel Messi’s coaches rewarded him with alfajores for every goal he scored. They are so central to Argentine life that the national constitution was reputedly written in an \u003Cem\u003Ealfajorería\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (alfajores shop) in the mid-19th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough they are a relatively simple product, alfajores have a long and complex history. Facundo Calabró, creator of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcatadordealfajores.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECatador de alfajores\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Taster of alfajores) blog and author of the book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.planetadelibros.com.ar\u002Flibro-en-busca-del-alfajor-perdido\u002F281916\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEn busca del alfajor perdido\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (In search of the lost alfajor), explains that they date to at least the 8th Century, when an Arabic biscuit featuring sugar, syrup, nuts and cinnamon arrived in the Iberian peninsula during the Moorish conquest. Versions from Andalusia and Murcia subsequently evolved, taking the name\u003Cem\u003E alajú \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eor alfajor\u003Cem\u003E – \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ederived, some linguists believe, from the Arabic word \u003Cem\u003Eal-fakher\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (“luxurious”) or the old Arabic word\u003Cem\u003E al-huasu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (“filled” or “stuffed”). Cylindrical in shape and made from ground almonds, hazelnuts, breadcrumbs, sugar, honey and spices such as cinnamon, these versions are still traditionally eaten in parts of Spain at Christmas  and in some areas are available year-round.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut alfajores really came into their own in Latin America. “In the 16th Century, during the [colonial period], the alfajor arrived from the south of Spain and spread throughout the Americas, mostly through the convents. It began to hybridise, taking the ingredients of each region and losing others,” said Calabró. Alfajores in Puerto Rico are typically made from ground cassava, for example; while Chile, Peru and Mexico – among others – use their own versions of dulce de leche. But although they are now found across Latin America, they are synonymous, above all, with Argentina, the biggest producer and consumer of the product.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Sometimes you just need an alfajor to survive","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, alfajores in Argentina are far removed from their Spanish and Arabic predecessors. The most common home-made version – and the style generally found in bakeries – are known as \u003Cem\u003Ealfajores de maicena\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, with a dulce de leche filling and a dusting of sugar or desiccated coconut. “But like most foods that came to Argentina, alfajores have been given provincial twists,” said Paula Delgado and Claudio Ortiz, chefs at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.estancialospotreros.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEstancia Los Potreros\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which will publish its first cookbook in 2021. “Our chefs go back to recipes they have been taught by their mothers, aunts, grandmothers. Here in Córdoba province, alfajores are typically filled with a sweet quince paste. All of our \u003Cem\u003Egauchos \u003C\u002Fem\u003E[cowboys], cooks, cleaners and staff sit down in the afternoon to discuss life and politics over alfajores and mate tea. They’re a big part of Argentine culture.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe most famous type of shop-bought alfajor is the \u003Cem\u003Emarplatense\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which is filled with dulce de leche and covered with chocolate. It takes its name from the coastal city of Mar del Plata, birthplace of leading brand \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.havanna.com.ar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHavanna\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which opened its first bakery in 1947 and now has shops and cafes across Argentina. But there are countless variations beyond the classic marplatense. Rummage through the shelves of a kiosco and you’ll find ones covered with a sugar glaze, meringue or yoghurt; filled with jams, ganache, mousse or peanut butter; and flavoured with coffee, fruits, nuts or spirits such as rum or whiskey. There are vegan, gluten-free, rice-cake and even triple-decker versions. People form deep attachments to particular brands, according to Romero’s husband Emanuel: “Argentinians need to belong to one side or the other. Like in football, for example, you support Boca or River. With alfajores, it’s kind of the same – you belong to a brand and you defend them.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite their popularity in Argentina and elsewhere in Latin America, alfajores are relatively little known in the rest of the world, though this is starting to change. Havanna opened a shop in Florida, its first in the US, in 2017. “There are also Havanna stores in Spain, and over 100 in the rest of Latin America,” said Mariano Oliva, CEO of Havanna USA. “We sell about half a million alfajores a year in the US, and have a plan – on hold for now [because of Covid] – to open more locations. Alfajores have phenomenal potential.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the UK, Romero’s creative alfajores – yerba mate, Malbec, and dark chocolate and mint are just some of the flavours – have also proved a hit. “Our dream is to take [alfajores] everywhere,” she told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet while alfajores expand globally, the question of why exactly they are so popular in Argentina remains unanswered. Delgado and Ortiz put it down to the national sweet tooth; Oliva suggests a strong emotional attachment that develops in childhood; and Romero believes it is due to a “shared passion”. For Calabró, the reasons behind the Argentine love of alfajores remain a “great mystery”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It is obvious that they are part of our collective identity,” he said. “[But] do we love \u003Cem\u003Ealfajores\u003C\u002Fem\u003E because they are part of our identity or are they part of our identity because, for some strange reason, we decided to love them? There is still no answer.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERecipe: Mar del Plata-style alfajores\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Maria Romero of \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsurchocolates.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ESur Chocolates\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E110g unsalted butter\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E80g icing sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EZest of half an orange\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E40g eggs\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1tbs honey\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E200g self-raising flour\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E5g cocoa powder\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E500g dulce de leche (ideally \u003Cem\u003Edulce de leche\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Erepostero\u003C\u002Fem\u003E)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E600g 70% dark chocolate\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EMakes 20 alfajores\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUsing a food processor or mixer, blend the butter, orange zest and icing sugar. Then add the egg and honey and continue mixing until pale and creamy. Finally, add the flour and cocoa powder and mix together without overworking the dough. Cover the dough in clingfilm or parchment paper and chill in the fridge for at least two hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERoll out the dough to 2mm thick and cut out rounds with a 6cm cutter. Place the biscuits on a tray lined with baking paper, leaving a bit of space between each one, and bake for six minutes at 190C.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOnce the biscuits are cool, fill a piping bag with dulce de leche and use it to cover one side of the first biscuit. Turn a second biscuit upside down (to ensure the outer sides of the alfajores are both as flat as possible), place it on top of the first one and press down gently. Repeat with the rest of the biscuits. For the best results, leave for 24 hours, but if you can’t wait, it’s fine to go straight to the coating.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcgoodfood.com\u002Fhowto\u002Fguide\u002Fhow-temper-chocolate\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETemper the chocolate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and then submerge the alfajores one at a time. Make sure each one is fully coated with chocolate, using a palate knife to remove excess from the top and smoothing the base on the rim of the bowl, and then place carefully on a tray lined with greaseproof paper or cellophane. Once the chocolate dries, the alfajores are ready to eat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-06T21:14:09Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The gooey 'biscake' eaten by millions","headlineShort":"The gooey 'biscake' eaten by millions","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Alfajores are synonymous with Argentina – the biggest producer and consumer – where they are as central to the national culinary identity as steak and Malbec.","summaryShort":"The Arabic biscuit that became Argentina's favourite snack","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:59:45.888268Z","entity":"article","guid":"62fae5d8-63bb-4e75-b226-d48a766e35f5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:20:37.520494Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355538},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate","_id":"628ab7b91f4b7b558545c0b1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmaggie-downs"],"bodyIntro":"There are nearly a dozen artisan chocolate companies in Belize taking cacao from bean to bar, part of a robust movement to reclaim the small country's rich chocolate heritage.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe earthen road is a great sweep of brown that slices through the rural landscape of southern Belize. The surface is pitted and pock-marked, lumpy enough that it looks like a nutty chocolate bar. So, it's only fitting that this path leads to Abelina Cho, known to many as the \"Chocolate Queen\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen we met, she was apron-clad in the kitchen, where she cooked with no recipes and presented the type of feast she makes whenever visitors come: shredded hearts of palm with turmeric root, tender sauteed greens, tomato salad, beans, coconut rice, spiced chicken, a heaping bowl of fried plantains. And of course, chocolate. On this day the Chocolate Queen prepared it in 14 different styles, including chocolate with cardamom, a chocolate liqueur and a hot ceremonial beverage. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECho lives in San Felipe, a village of 330 households and five churches. It's located within the Toledo district, Belize's agricultural centre, where bountiful crops include bananas and corn. Here, the soaring rainforest trees make leafy jungle canopies, the rivers run clear and thatched-roof houses of Maya families dot the hillsides. This is also the cradle of chocolate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECacao – the principal ingredient for chocolate – was both consumed and used as currency by ancient Maya royalty and political elites throughout the historical region of Mesoamerica, which included southern North America and most of Central America. But not all those areas were suitable for cultivating cacao.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EArchaeological evidence points to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.world-archaeology.com\u002Fworld\u002Fsouth-america\u002Fbelize\u002Fchocolate-earliest-evidence-belize\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBelize as the earliest hub of cacao cultivation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where Maya were \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F11253992_Archaeology_Cacao_usage_by_the_earliest_Maya_civilization\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edrinking cacao beverages as far back as 600 BCE\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Spouted ceramic vessels that look like ancient teapots, excavated intact at the archaeological site of Colha in Belize, still contain cacao residue. Cacao wood charcoal dating to the same period (600 BCE to 250 CE) has also been found at several sites throughout the region. (Cacao usage can be traced back even further to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.history.com\u002Ftopics\u002Fancient-americas\u002Fhistory-of-chocolate\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOlmecs of southern Mexico\u003C\u002Fa\u003E around 1500 BCE, but it's unclear how that civilisation consumed it, and it's the Maya who are credited with fermenting, drying and grinding the beans for consumption.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5xx4n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough cacao has been around in some form for millennia, for Cho and other small-batch producers, it's also very much a part of the present – and a key to the future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECho, along with her husband, Juan, are the owners of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fixcacaomayabelizeanchocolate.com\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIxcacao\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a small-batch chocolate company that celebrates chocolate the way Maya have enjoyed it for ages. This chocolate is not milky or sugary sweet. It's as dark as midnight. At first bite, the confection is solid, but it melts with a surprising silkiness and fine texture. Then comes the wallop of flavour, bitter and rich like freshly brewed black coffee, with a lingering fruit-like aftertaste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Cacao is so important to our culture that it is our culture. You cannot separate it.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Cacao is so important to our culture that it \u003Cem\u003Eis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E our culture,\" she said. \"You cannot separate it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough these rainforests are chocolate's origin story, once cacao was brought to Europe in the 1500s, colonisation \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.inquiriesjournal.com\u002Farticles\u002F1669\u002Fcacao-cravings-europes-assimilation-and-europeanization-of-chocolate-drinking-from-mesoamerica-1492-1700-ce\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eshifted the narrative\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to European chocolate manufacturers instead. Over time, the confection became more closely associated with countries like Belgium and Switzerland rather than the places that produced the beans. But the Maya in Belize never stopped making chocolate, and the trees continued to bear fruit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5xx17"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMore recently, the lens has turned back toward Belize a couple times. US-based \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thehersheycompany.com\u002Fen_us\u002Fhome.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHershey\u003C\u002Fa\u003E had a presence here from the 1980s to the early 1990s, then abandoned the project when the price of cacao dropped. In 1994, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.snackworks.com\u002Fbrands\u002Fgreen-and-blacks?Brand=GREEN%20BLACKS\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreen & Black's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (now owned by Mondelez International) created Maya Gold – organic, fair-trade chocolate bars with cacao sourced from the Toledo district – but manufactured in other countries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow, there are nearly a dozen artisan chocolate companies in Belize taking cacao from bean to bar, part of a robust movement to reclaim the small country's rich chocolate heritage. What's notable about this effort is that the focus is squarely on Belizean growers, producers and makers, who are making exquisite chocolate using traditional methods, drawing upon a long Maya history. (They are \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fixcacaomayabelizeanchocolate.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIxcacao\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fcottontreechocolate\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECotton Tree Chocolate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ajawchocolate.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAJAW Chocolate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fcheilmayanproducts\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECheil Mayan Chocolate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpeople\u002FGoss-Chocolate\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGoss Chocolate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbelizechocolatecompany.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBelize Chocolate Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lamanaichocolate.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELamanai Chocolate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dragonchocolate.com\u002Fevents-community\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDragon Chocolate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FLaEspecialChocolate\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Especial Chocolate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmohochocolate\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoho Chocolate Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.copaltreelodge.com\u002Fagritourism-experiences\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECopal Tree\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo bring high-quality cacao beyond Belize's borders, two major suppliers, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.uncommoncacao.com\u002Fmaya-mountain-cacao-operation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaya Mountain Cacao\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.belizetcga.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EToledo Cacao Growers Association\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, work directly with hundreds of small farms to source premium, organic beans. Their efforts have nearly doubled the amount of cacao exports within the past five years. Internationally, Maya Mountain Cacao has received acclaim for its innovative methods that centralise the post-harvest processing, streamlining production and increasing market access for growers. In this direct trade model, the farmers sell \"wet\" (unfermented) cacao seeds to Maya Mountain Cacao, then the cacao is fermented and dried in a central location, allowing for higher quality control, a consistent product and more revenue for the farmers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll of this is to say: chocolate in Belize is having a moment. The annual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBelizeChocolateFestival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBelize Chocolate Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E will soon return after a two-year hiatus. Many luxury resorts, like the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chaacreek.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELodge at Chaa Creek\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, boast chocolate-themed facials, massages and body wraps on their spa menus. And a growing number of tour operators and cacao farms offer chocolate experiences for visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5xwj3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIxcacao was among the first to host such tours. When I visited, Juan, a fifth-generation farmer, walked eagerly around his plentiful acreage. Despite the crushing humidity, he moved with such energy that it looked like someone was pulling him forward with a hook.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn the farm, the cacao trees weren't planted in neat rows or grouped together. No land was cleared. Instead, it was a mélange of trees and plants, tangles of vines, abundant ferns, blooming orchids. The bilimbi trees overflowed with green, thumb-shaped sour fruits. Spiky jackfruits grew to the size of basketballs. Allspice bushes burst with shiny purple berries. The bird peppers were just starting to ripen, turning from green to orange to red in the unwavering sunshine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Chocolate will save the rainforest!","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJuan knows every plant. As he moved, he plucked leaves from bushes, crushed them and inhaled the scent. He ripped bark from the cinnamon tree and pointed to tiny cashew apples on another tree. \"Chocolate will save the rainforest!\" proclaimed the slogan on his T-shirt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Chos, like many Maya farmers, are proponents of sustainable agriculture and employ indigenous permaculture principles. Their land is such a model of biodiversity, university students from all over the world visit the farm to learn from them. At the cornerstone of their belief system is that cacao trees, with their shallow roots, prevent erosion and enrich the soil for native fruit trees and other crops. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When we talk about chocolate saving the rainforest, it's not a gimmick,\" Juan said. \"These are the sustainable practices that keep our community strong.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5xx37"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEverything that goes into Ixcacao chocolate, from cacao to vanilla to sugar, is sourced right here on site.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAround us, cacao pods dangled from low tree branches. Some had holes bored into the side. The smaller holes are left by woodpeckers or sapsuckers. Larger holes are from howler monkeys. Juan joked that's how the ancient Maya discovered cacao.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Imagine someone watching the monkeys eat these beans,\" he said. \"They see the monkeys get happier, more energetic, so they want to eat those beans too!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe cacao pod is shaped like a slender American football, and they're hefty, about 500g each. Juan snapped one pod off the tree and cracked the firm husk on a rock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach pod produces about 35 to 50 cacao seeds, with slippery white pulp coating each one. That pulp is the fruit. We each slipped an almond-shaped seed out of the pod and sucked on the pulp. It was not chocolatey. Rather, the taste was tropical, vaguely like mango and banana mashed together. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJuan bit his seed in half, then held it out. It was a mottled purple colour. I chewed my own seed; it was soft in texture, bitter and nutty in flavour. Again, not close to chocolate at this point.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce the cacao is harvested, the fruit is fermented for six days. During that time, the sweet pulp becomes watery and slides away, leaving just the seeds behind. Those seeds are sun-dried for two weeks. They are then roasted, shelled and finally winnowed to remove the hard-shell pieces from the roasted beans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5xx2d"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor a long time, Cho ground the cacao by hand, rubbing a stone handle along a stone slab called a \u003Cem\u003Ematate\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, like a horizontal mortar and pestle. This is serious work; it takes about five hours to grind the roasted beans into a creamy paste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Growing up, she was Wonder Woman, taking care of me and my sister, grinding cacao for hours next to the stove where beans were roasting,\" said Cho's son, Henry. \"It was hot and exhausting, and she did it all.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow Cho has a machine that does the work so she can tend to other aspects of the business. The matate, a wedding gift that has been passed down the family for generations, is still used to grind corn and spices – and to teach tourists the laborious and traditional process of making chocolate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is the tool that binds the Chocolate Queen with ancient Maya royals, but it's also the reason Belize chocolate will have its day again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Every time we make chocolate drinks for breakfast, every time we greet a friend or visitor with chocolate, it connects us to our history and ties us to our culture,\" Cho said. \"We always have chocolate.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-05-23T10:19:59Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The world's true cradle of chocolate","headlineShort":"The world's true cradle of chocolate","image":["p0c5xwjy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"31.7645989","longitude":"-106.4942255","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6267dfc91f4b7b565656c4b5"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0c5xwjy"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190916-the-worlds-most-exquisite-chocolate","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181118-belizes-thriving-afro-caribbean-community","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"There are nearly a dozen artisan chocolate companies in Belize taking cacao from bean to bar, part of a robust movement to reclaim the small country's rich chocolate heritage.","summaryShort":"\"Cacao is so important to our culture that it is our culture\"","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-22T22:22:31.822838Z","entity":"article","guid":"5dccc7ee-7720-4fa0-b655-9efb24575038","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-24T13:32:09.148706Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220522-belize-the-worlds-true-cradle-of-chocolate","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbelize","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-america"],"destinationStat":"central-america_belize_south-america","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355531},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons","_id":"6282d5e31f4b7b2403098bb6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fhugh-tucker"],"bodyIntro":"The recipe for Macarons des Sœurs is only passed on orally to the succeeding pâtissier, who is the only one who makes the macaron, \"alone and away from prying eyes\".","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Lorraine, in the north-east of France, the small city of Nancy slumbered on the bank of the river Meurthe. Before the city awakened, a fog crept off the water and settled over the streets. The occasional roar of a scooter interrupted the silence, and two people sat on the steps of the famous Place Stanislas. But otherwise, the boulevards and squares were still.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt seemed hard to believe that anyone could be working, but a stone's throw from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nancy-tourisme.fr\u002Fen\u002Foffers\u002Fhotel-de-ville-de-nancy-nancy-en-2037186\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHôtel de Ville\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, pâtissier Nicolas Genot toiled alone and unobserved to produce the veritable Macarons des S&oelig;urs, using a recipe unchanged for more than two centuries that he alone holds in his head.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELater, as the frantic rush to offices and classrooms was underway, the fruits of his labour were displayed in the large glass window of his pâtisserie, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.macaron-de-nancy.com\u002Ffr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaison des S&oelig;urs Macarons\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. They sat alongside other local specialities such as the little jars of syrup-soaked \u003Cem\u003Ebaba au rhum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E cakes and cellophane bags of bright \u003Cem\u003EBergamotes de Nancy\u003C\u002Fem\u003E candies, but it's the macarons that are the reason for his shop's fame.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They are essentially the top half of their more famous counterpart.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnlike the better-known, pastel-coloured \"Paris\" macaron, which comes in a variety of shapes, colours and flavours, the Macarons des S&oelig;urs have no ganache, are a uniform pale brown, are finely cracked on top and taste like toasted almonds. They are essentially the top half of their more famous counterpart.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEating them is an exercise in history; the recipe has never changed in the 230 years since their invention, and it has only ever been passed to the succeeding pâtissier of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.macaron-de-nancy.com\u002Ffr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaison des S&oelig;urs Macarons\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"The recipe and the secret are passed on orally, they've never been written down, and, in the contract with the new pâtissier, both sides swear to never teach the making to anybody else,\" explained Genot. \"The owner of the pâtisserie is the only one who makes the macaron, alone and away from prying eyes.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5b59l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe kitchens of monasteries and abbeys across Europe have been responsible for the invention of more than a few popular pastries and desserts, including the famous Portuguese egg tart, the \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpasteisdebelem.pt\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epastel de nata\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, and the rum and vanilla flavoured \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fus.france.fr\u002Fen\u002Fbordeaux\u002Flist\u002Fbest-canneles-bordeaux\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecannelé\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E from Bordeaux, to give just two examples. This baking ingenuity grew out of the reliance on the sale of products to raise money for the upkeep of their religious orders, as well as simply having the time and opportunity to experiment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESimilarly, the original Macarons des S&oelig;urs were created by two 18th Century nuns, Marguerite Gaillot and Marie Morlot, who lived in an abbey in the heart of Nancy. It's possible one of the nuns brought some form of the recipe with them upon joining the sisterhood and then perfected it. In 1792, a decree abolishing religious congregations led to their expulsion from the abbey. The nuns fled and took refuge with a local doctor, supporting themselves by making and selling their macarons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince then, the Macarons des S&oelig;urs have been sold in the city without interruption. When Marguerite died, Marie passed the secret to her niece and the business remained in the family for another three generations. The business was passed to the Aptel family in 1935 and the premises moved from the site of the original pâtisserie to the location it occupies today. Jean-Marie Genot purchased the business in 1991 before passing it, and the secret of the macaron, to his son Nicolas in 2000.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5b5b7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe lasting success of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.macaron-de-nancy.com\u002Ffr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaison des S&oelig;urs Macarons\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a testament to the recipe and the skill and quality of its production. \"We always use the same, top-quality ingredients – for example, we refuse to buy almonds produced anywhere outside Provence and we're investing in the production of almond trees to sustain our needs,\" said Genot. \"Our customers know this and come to us for this unique taste.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Macarons des Sœurs are a unique type of macaron","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut while the Macarons des S&oelig;urs are a unique type of macaron, the treat potentially existed many centuries before.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe word \"macaronic\" describes the mixing of different languages in speech, prose and poetry. The term is thought to have originated in 15th Century Italy, stemming from the word \u003Cem\u003Emaccarona\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a kind of stodgy dumpling, which is the provenance of the French word \u003Cem\u003Emacaron. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EWith a bit of artistic license, macaronic is the perfect word to describe the mixed origins of the macaron itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5b5c2"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA widely held belief is that Catherine de' Medici introduced the macaron to the tables of the royal court of France in the 16th Century, although food historian Marie Josèphe Moncorgé disputes this. \"This is just a legend,\" she said. \"In general, pastries with almonds are often of Arabic origin, they then moved on to Catalonia and Italy before arriving organically in France.\" Given the Italian origin of the word and the existence of recipes describing a macaron-like pastry brought to Sicily by Arab soldiers before the 13th Century, this seems likely. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrancois Rabelais' satirical work, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FGargantua-and-Pantagruel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGargantua and Pantagruel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is credited with introducing several new words to the French language. It's also thought to be the first recorded mention of the macaron as a dessert, so we can be sure that it had made its way to France by the middle of the 16th Century. But it's unlikely that the definite story of its origin will ever be known; as food historian Dr Annie Gray said: \"There's rarely a definitive answer, only ever a gradual development.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, what we do know for sure is that nearly 140 years after the two nuns started selling the sweet treat in Nancy, the macaron was transformed. In 1930, Pierre Desfontaines, a Parisian pâtissier, took two traditional macarons and sandwiched them together using ganache, creating the famous \"Paris\" macaron that can now be found all over the world, everywhere from the finest pâtisseries to McDonald's.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5b4sg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite being overtaken in popularity by its successor, the legacy of the Macaron des S&oelig;urs can still be seen in Nancy. Walk to the quartier Charles III and you can visit the Rue des S&oelig;urs Macarons, named in honour of the site of the sisters' original bakery; or wait by the gilded gates of Place Stanislas and watch passers-by clutching the white and gold boxes from the Maison des S&oelig;urs Macarons. Its wider significance as a progenitor to the delicacy recognisable the world over as something quintessentially French is keenly felt by Genot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Of course, it's a big responsibility,\" he observed. \"My mission, like that of my predecessors and my successors, is to respect, protect and value this tradition and this unique recipe.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place's heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-05-17T10:52:27Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The true origin of French macarons","headlineShort":"The French macaron shrouded in secrecy","image":["p0c5b4c5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.6924329","longitude":"6.1793434","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6267dfc91f4b7b565656c4b5"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0c5b5c2"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180723-whats-in-a-name-frances-fight-over-chocolate-pastry"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The recipe for Macarons des Sœurs is only passed on orally to the succeeding pâtissier, who is the only one who makes the macaron, \"alone and away from prying eyes\".","summaryShort":"The recipe hasn't changed since its invention 230 years ago","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-16T22:53:05.860036Z","entity":"article","guid":"af1d26c6-3464-46c0-8aa5-a03c91ac111e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-17T02:12:22.111234Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355534,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ffrance","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_france_europe"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit","_id":"6267dfcc1f4b7b5244114483","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjonathan-shipley"],"bodyIntro":"Across large swaths of North America, an ancient fruit is growing wild but largely forgotten. However, a community of foodies, farmers and scientists is eagerly trying to change that.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Where, oh where, is pretty little Suzie? Where, oh where, is pretty little Suzie? Where, oh where, is pretty little Suzie?\" asks the traditional folk song. \"Way down yonder in the pawpaw patch.\"\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ESuzie knows more about pawpaws than most, it seems. North America's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhgic.clemson.edu\u002Ffactsheet\u002Fpawpaw\u002F%20%20\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elargest native edible tree fruit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E grows wild in 26 US states, including Texas, Ohio, West Virginia, New York and Michigan and all the way up to Ontario, Canada. Yet most people have never heard of it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat's because pawpaws have never been sold on a large scale. Commercial farmers have long shunned them because they need a special growing environment of low, wet areas and because they spoil only a few days after harvest – so you won't see the yellow-green fruit next to the grapes at the grocery store. Nevertheless, a community of avid pawpaw fans across the US – from festival organisers and chefs to scientists and independent farmers – is expanding the love for this forgotten fruit, and they want you to love it too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They are so delicious,\" said Michael Judd, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FLOVE-PAWPAWS-Manual-Growing-Pawpaws-ebook\u002Fdp\u002FB07RZ8VQYR\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFor the Love of Paw Paws: A Mini Manual for Growing and Caring for Paw Paws – From Seed to Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. During the harvest season (typically a few weeks in late summer or early autumn), his diet consists mainly of pawpaws taken right off the branch. \"It's a nutrient-rich superfood,\" he added, listing off the pawpaw's many attributes: antioxidants, all the amino acids, magnesium, copper, zinc, iron, potassium, phosphorus, vitamin C.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo help get the word out, Judd will be hosting his seventh annual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ecologiadesign.com\u002F2022\u002F03\u002F01\u002Fpaw-paw-festival-longcreek-homestead\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epawpaw festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E this September, on his farm in Frederick, Maryland, which includes tastings, jam making, pawpaw ice cream, music, lectures and more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c27dy3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn even larger festival in Ohio has been drawing fans since 1999. \"Last year we had close to 10,000 visitors,\" said Chris Chmiel, co-owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fintegrationacres.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIntegration Acres\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Albany, Ohio, where he grows pawpaws, ships pawpaw products and helps organise the village's annual festival. \"People attend every year, and it has become a family tradition to many. We also host a pawpaw cook-off, best pawpaw competition and a pawpaw eating competition. The pawpaw beer has been a huge success for the festival!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChmiel stumbled on the pawpaw as a college student, and it influenced the course of his studies and his career in sustainable agriculture. He even has a tattoo of the fruit on his arm. \"It's a tropical fruit growing right here in Appalachia… it's sort of the king of the native plants around here,\" he said in a 2018 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=eeoE1R7Xk8s\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETEDx Talk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe pawpaw is in the same family as the custard apple, cherimoya, sweetsop, soursop and ylang-ylang. It's a subtropical fruit that migrated north from Central America, and it is atypical; the only member of the family not confined to the tropics.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe earliest fossil evidence of pawpaws originated in the Miocene Epoch, about 23 to 5.3 million years ago in what is now Colorado. Over time, the climate has had warming periods, expanding the range of tropical areas north and, by extension, the pawpaw. Additionally, scientists have hypothesised that pawpaws were dispersed northward by megafauna, like mastodons, mammoths and sloths, sabre-toothed cats and giant beavers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere is evidence that humans played a role in pawpaw dispersal as well. \"Natives in the eastern half of the country have always used pawpaws,\" said \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhum.ku.edu\u002Fdevon-abbott-mihesuah\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDr Devon Mihesuah\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a citizen of the Choctaw Nation who holds the Cora Lee Beers Price professorship in International Cultural Understanding at the University of Kansas. \"Iroquois reportedly mashed pawpaws and made the flesh into cakes and then dried them in the sun. They were used as a travel food or mixed with water into cornbread.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1541, Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto took note of Native Americans cultivating it east of the Mississippi River. George Washington wrote in his diary in 1785: \"Planted all my cedars, all my pawpaw, and two honey locust trees.\" (Though there's no historical documentation, it is said chilled pawpaw was Washington's favourite dessert.) In 1786, when Thomas Jefferson was minister to France, he had pawpaw seeds and plants shipped from Virginia to friends in Europe. A journal entry from the explorers Lewis and Clark dated 18 September 1806 recorded that the men were \"entirely out of provisions\" but \"appear perfectly contented\", living \"very well on the pappaws.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe fruit's texture has been compared to custard, and the flavour is \"a blend of banana and mango, with undertones of vanilla, caramel, pineapple, coconut and melon, depending on the cultivar\", said Sheri Crabtree, a horticulture and research extension associate at Kentucky State University's pawpaw research programme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c22d9n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany an aficionado will tell you that the mango-shaped orbs – yellow-green on the outside with gold-orange flesh, and 7 to 13cm long with a weight of up to half a kilogram – are best enjoyed hand-picked off the tree. But for now, it's nearly impossible to find them at a local grocery store; instead, farmers sell the fresh fruit or its frozen pulp online direct to consumers or at local farmer's markets. Pawpaw trees are also sold by nurseries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScientists are at work, though, learning more about the pawpaw and finding ways to make it more economically viable. Iowa State University is developing a pawpaw variety with a longer shelf life and a larger fruit with fewer seeds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKentucky State University has a pawpaw programme too. \"We're interested in pawpaw from an ecological standpoint as a native plant that is losing habitat, and from a horticultural standpoint as a unique high-value fruit crop that can be grown sustainably since it's well suited for the climate,\" said Crabtree. She noted that over the past 20 years she's seen awareness of the fruit grow, driven by the shift toward sustainable and local food production and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.slowfood.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlow Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E movement. Some of that attention is also driven by efforts to honour indigenous foods. As Mihesuah pointed out, \"Tribes are attempting to protect and revitalise their traditional food sources, and pawpaws are an important part.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChefs and brewers in the food and beverage world are also raising awareness. Taylor Knapp is the chef behind \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pawpawpopup.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPAWPAW\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a pop-up restaurant dedicated to showcasing ingredients farmed, fished and foraged on the North Fork of Long Island in New York. His frequently changing menu has included dishes like local duck breast with pawpaw sauce, a pawpaw sundae with black walnut caramel and burnt orange meringue, and pawpaw and white chocolate bon bons. Clearly Knapp, like many others, is a devotee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Pawpaws are an incredible native fruit that rivals the most sought-after exotic specimens we ship in from around the world,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c35pn2"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, it seems that pawpaws are becoming more and more fashionable. Tim Luscher of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fsigluscherbrewery.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESig Luscher Brewery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Frankfort, Kentucky, crafts pawpaw beer. Alicia Burton of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fjepthacreed.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJeptha Creed Distillery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Shelbyville, Kentucky, makes pawpaw brandy. Chef and culinary educator Sara Bir recently wrote \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbeltpublishing.com\u002Fproducts\u002Fthe-pocket-pawpaw-cookbook?_pos=1&_sid=082f8ea67&_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Pocket Pawpaw Cookbook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"At their best, pawpaws are custardy. Therefore, I love them in baked custards and chilled, dairy-based desserts,\" she said. \"They also do well in tropically inspired savoury foods – a pawpaw beurre blanc spiked with habanero pepper to serve with shrimp, say.\" And Minnesota-based chef Alan Bergo, a noted forager and hunter of obscure wild foods, has taken a shine to the fruit, sharing recipes for pawpaw \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fforagerchef.com\u002Fpaw-paw-panna-cotta\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epanna cotta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and pawpaw \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fforagerchef.com\u002Fpaw-paw-cheesecake\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Echeesecake\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on his website.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's an enthusiastic collection of hard-working individuals eager to put the pawpaw on a bigger stage. George Washington would be pleased.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EForgotten Foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offers hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life through cooking and cultivation.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-6"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-26T20:29:56Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The revival of a forgotten American fruit","headlineShort":"The fruit that once fed mastodons","image":["p0c22djw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6267dfc91f4b7b565656c4b5"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Across large swaths of North America, an ancient fruit is growing wild but largely forgotten. However, a community of foodies, farmers and scientists is eagerly trying to change that.","summaryShort":"Ancient beasts ate it, now humans want North America's forgotten fruit too","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fconservation","tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Ffestivals"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-25T20:31:41.806083Z","entity":"article","guid":"f3205f48-02d5-43bd-8a76-65d8ec48cb5c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-23T13:03:25.240383Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355539,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line","_id":"6267df821f4b7b29844253d3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Not only did Tama’s sweet nature and photogenic features make her popular with commuters on the Kishigawa railway, but the ‘cat master’ became so famous she was knighted.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a bright May morning at Japan’s Idakiso train station, a small cat basked in the sun as her photo was taken by a group of tourists before getting a tummy tickle from a toddler. While the white, tan and black kitten purred and meowed in the arms of a visitor, one of the station workers looked on with a grin, interjecting only to gently reposition the cat’s brimmed conductor hat whenever it threatened to slip over her eyes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I sometimes forget that she is my boss","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Having her around the station makes everyone happy,” he said, as the cat playfully swiped at a tourist’s iPhone. “I sometimes forget that she is my boss.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeet Yontama, the latest in a line of feline stationmasters that has helped save the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wakayama-dentetsu.co.jp\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKishigawa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E railway line in Japan’s Wakayama prefecture, a largely mountainous and rural part of the country famous for temple-studded hillsides and sacred pilgrimage trails.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis story began in the late 1990s with a young calico cat called Tama. The kitten lived near Kishi Station – the final of 14 stops on a 14.3km line that connects small communities to Wakayama City, the region’s hub – and would frequently hang out by the railway, soaking up affection from commuters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170531-the-asian-city-obsessed-with-cats\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Asian city obsessed with cats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171102-the-cats-who-rule-rome\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe cats who rule Rome\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181009-japans-special-take-on-a-packed-lunch\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan’s ultimate travel food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver the years, Tama’s sweet nature and photogenic features made her popular with the commuters, and adoring onlookers affectionately began referring to her as Kishi’s ‘stationmaster’. But by the mid-2000s, a combination of low ridership and financial problems threatened to close down the rural rail line, and the line’s 14 stations were finally unstaffed in 2006.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut fortunately, it wasn’t the end for the railway or the beloved feline’s role in it. “In 2006, the current president of the Wakayama Electric Railway, Mitsunobu Kojima, was asked by residents to revive the Kishigawa Line after the previous owner had announced it was to be abolished,” said Keiko Yamaki, an executive for Ryobi, the company that owns the Wakayama Electric Railway. Yamaki explained that the owner of a local convenience store near Kishi Station, who had become Tama’s guardian, had also decided to move on, but before leaving he requested that the railway look after Tama. “Our president has always been a dog person, but when he met Tama that was it,” Yamaki said, while swiping through images on her phone of Kojima happily cuddling the station’s ‘cat master’. “He fell for her.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn a big way. Soon after adopting Tama, Kojima ordered a customised stationmaster’s hat for his little cat, and in January 2007 he officially named Tama the ‘Stationmaster of Kishi Station’ – the first feline stationmaster in Japan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs stationmaster, one of Tama’s duties was to be the face of the railway and appear in promotional material and media coverage. She also got paws-on at the station, sometimes greeting passengers from atop a table set up by the ticket gates or from the behind the glass window of her ‘office’ – a converted ticket booth equipped with a litter tray and bed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETama was so adored by riders and railway staff that a painted portrait of her was soon commissioned, which now hangs alongside numerous glossy photos of her in Kishi Station’s souvenir shop – where visitors can buy everything from Tama badges and keyrings to Tama-branded candy. In lieu of a ‘salary’, Tama got all the cat food she needed. She received a promotion, too: in 2008, she became a ‘super station manager’ and was even knighted by the prefecture’s governor. In the process, she received a dark blue ceremonial gown with white lace neck ruffles, and thousands of tourists began coming to the small, single-platform station to see her.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, according to a 2008 study by Katsuhiro Miyamoto, professor at Kansai University's School of Accountancy, Tama’s purring presence at the station is estimated to have attracted 55,000 more riders on the Kishigawa Line than were expected in 2007, and during her full reign as stationmaster from 2007 until 2015, she contributed upwards of 1.1bn yen (£7.85m) to the local economy. With the help of its whiskered manager, Wakayama Electric Railway says the annual number of passengers on the Kishigawa Line has increased by almost 300,000 from 2006.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo capitalise on the region’s Tama craze, in 2010 the railway hired award-winning industrial designer Eiji Mitooka – known for his sleek Japanese bullet trains – to completely redesign the train’s exteriors and interiors as a Tama-themed line. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wakayama-dentetsu.co.jp\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETamaden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E railway was born.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn an ode to Tama, the outsides of Tamaden’s two white carriages are now decorated with paw prints and 101 cartoon images of Tama, including Tama enjoying a satisfying stretch, cheerfully licking a paw and mischievously poised to pounce. The front of the train even has little whiskers, while inside are old-fashioned wooden floors and shelves of children’s books. As a finishing touch, when the doors open at each station, a few meows purr through the PA system – an actual recording of Tama.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Having her around the station makes everyone happy","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy the time Tama passed away in 2015, she was 16 years old and had appeared in prominent TV shows, magazines and newspapers across Japan. Thousands of people attended her funeral at the station, leaving piles of flower bouquets and cans of tuna outside. The ‘Honourable Eternal Station Master’, as she is now called, was then memorialised with a phone box-sized shrine on Kishi’s platform, and in the Japanese Shinto religious tradition, she was elevated to the status of a goddess of the Wakayama Electric Railway. In honour of what would have been Tama’s 18th birthday in 2017, she even had her own commemorative \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fdoodles\u002Ftamas-18th-birthday\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGoogle Doodle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And four years after her death, her \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FekichoTAMA?ref_src=twsrc%5Egoogle%7Ctwcamp%5Eserp%7Ctwgr%5Eauthor\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter account\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has more than 80,000 followers and is still growing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The Tamaden really has become very popular with people of all ages,” Yamaki said. “We see lots of children and families and older people bringing their grandchildren. But also people into trains, couples and lots of overseas travellers come to ride the trains and see the stationmasters.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENowadays, one of Tama’s former apprentices, eight-year-old Nitama (literally: ‘Tama Two’), serves as the Kishi stationmaster, with four-year-old Yontama (‘Tama Four’) functioning as her feline assistant five stations away in Idakiso. Both work 10:00 to 16:00 with two days off a week: Monday and Friday for Yontama; Wednesday and Thursday for Nitama. And Tama Three? She’s currently an employee of Japan’s Okayama Electric Tramway and serves as the acting director of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.okayama-kido.co.jp\u002Fokadenmuseum\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOkaden Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Tama and her successors have played a major part in the Kishigawa Line’s revival, Yamaki is keen to point out that the railway’s revival hasn’t solely been due to the cats. The railway also hired Mitooka to create several other themed trains to help attract tourists, including a strawberry train (Ichigo Densha) and a pickled plum train (Umeboshi Densha) – both fruits that Wakayama is well known for.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2009, Mitooka also designed a new building for Kishi Station, a small thatched structure in the shape of a cat’s head. Little ears stick up from the roof, the entrance serves as a mouth and two oval windows rising from the slanted roof resemble eyes – each glowing yellow when the lights are on in the evenings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The station comes alive as a cat when the eyes light up,” Yamaki said. “They say cats ward off evil and misfortune. Maybe the station does.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaybe so. After all, throughout history, cats have been considered to be spiritual animals and a symbol of good luck in Japan. The famous Maneki-neko cat figurines, with their beckoning left paw, are said to bring good fortune to businesses, which has led them to be placed inside storefront windows across the globe. There are also shrines and statues across Japan dedicated to cats – such as Nekogami (Cat God) Shrine in Kagoshima, where two cats were enshrined by a feudal warlord in honour of their military service. More than 10 Japanese ‘\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fallabout-japan.com\u002Fen\u002Farticle\u002F3882\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecat islands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E’, where hundreds of felines roam free, have become popular tourist destinations; as have Tokyo’s many \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20120402-worldwide-weird-feline-fun-in-japans-cat-cafes\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epay-to-pet cat cafes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And this is to say nothing of Hello Kitty, one of Japan’s most beloved cartoon characters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn a nation that seems especially fond of felines, Tama and her successors have not only brought plenty of good fortune to the Kishigawa Line, they’ve also carved a place in many Japanese people’s hearts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut what does Yontama think about it all? She just looked up and sweetly meowed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-05-22T22:25:48.114Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The cat who saved a Japanese rail line","headlineShort":"How this cat saved a train line","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"34.204360","longitude":"135.251486","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Not only did Tama’s sweet nature and photogenic features make her popular with commuters on the Kishigawa railway, but the ‘cat master’ became so famous she was knighted.","summaryShort":"She’s so famous she was knighted","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:32:59.874158Z","entity":"article","guid":"3c2866d2-20c3-4cfb-a9aa-d88db1c4c456","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:49:34.337586Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355533},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors","_id":"628571111f4b7b66f8654b01","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Frussell-thomas"],"bodyIntro":"Eaten right off the coals, yaki-imo (roasted sweet potatoes) are a beloved centuries-old food, whether they're served by old-fashioned street vendors or modern \"imo\" girls and boys.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EYaki-imo…\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" The forlorn cry of the roasted sweet potato vendor echoed through the canyons of concrete and tiled buildings in a Tokyo suburb. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=2B3fc41Ou8Y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epre-recorded song\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, bookended with spoken claims of \"\u003Cem\u003Eoishii, oishii\" \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(delicious, delicious), flowed from speakers on a stubby flatbed \u003Cem\u003Ekei\u003C\u002Fem\u003E truck. This small vehicle, a ubiquitous part of working-class Japan, had been converted into a vessel for \u003Cem\u003Eidōhanbai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (literally, mobile sales).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EComplete with an oven and an awning, plus a price list and colourful advertising, the truck trundled slowly around the perimeter of a park on a chilly March evening. It paused outside an apartment block, engine idling. A mother and child stopped, and, after a brief exchange with the vendor, they sauntered off with warm sweet potatoes in hand. The truck lingered a moment longer and then slowly drove on. The song, its rising and falling intonation like a lament, started up again: yaki-imo…\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a country better known for its sushi, sashimi and noodle dishes, the simple roasted sweet potato – or yaki-imo – doesn't garner as much attention. But this hearty vegetable, yet another import in a sizeable list of historical introductions to the island nation (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.japan-guide.com\u002Fe\u002Fe2042.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eramen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for example), has long been a beloved winter snack eaten in the cold months after its harvest. A favourite in Japan since the 1600s, yaki-imo's moist, chewy texture and burnt-caramel scent still inspire nostalgia – as do the trucks that are gradually disappearing as sweet potato sales move to convenience stores and supermarkets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It is quite a rare treat to hear the song of those travelling peddlers,\" said Aiko Tanaka, food researcher and director of the Japan Food Studies College in Osaka.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, not only are fewer kei trucks out there, but you may not even hear them coming. \"The biggest factor behind the decrease in the song is noise complaints,\" said one vendor, Kōki Ono, who has been selling sweet potatoes for almost two years. \"Plus, \u003Cem\u003Ehiki-uri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E sales [those from mobile peddlers in general] are also declining.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c76ppd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAsuri Kamatani, president of modern yaki-imo outlet \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhimitsu-na-yakiimo.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHimitsu na Yakiimo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Secret Roasted Sweet Potato), has noticed the same thing. \"Certainly, compared to the Showa era [1926-89], the \u003Cem\u003Eojisan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [uncle] with his roasted sweet potato truck is rarely seen,\" she said. \"It's not an easy profession because it requires physical strength and time. So, it's a tough job for older people.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose who still trundle along have had to adapt. Ono's truck, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FOonoya919\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOono-ya,\u003C\u002Fa\u003E haunts busy spots along the Odakyu Line, a railway route that stretches from Shinjuku to the south-west suburbs of Tokyo, and the Nambu Line that serves Tokyo's Ota Ward and parts of neighbouring Kawasaki. \"The simple style of yaki-imo hasn't changed much,\" he said, the signage on his truck revealing that the potatoes only come in small, medium, large or oversized, with no condiments. One thing he has changed, though, is his strategy: emblazoned on Ono's truck is a Twitter bird and a QR code, anachronistic additions to an otherwise retro sales method and snack.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESweet potatoes originated in Central and South America, and scholars have some theories that they came to Japan in approximately the 17th Century. \"The earliest historical reference to sweet potato in Japan seems to be in the diary of Richard Cocks in 1615,\" said Eric Rath, professor of Japanese history at University of Kansas and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FJapans-Cuisines-Food-Place-Identity\u002Fdp\u002F1780236433\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's Cuisines: Food, Place and Identity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Cocks, the director of the British East India Company's outpost in Hirado, wrote that he'd received the potatoes from honorary samurai William Adams, recorded as the first English person in Japan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERath said there's some evidence they might have already been available in the Ryukyu Kingdom (today's Okinawa) as early as 1605, via the Philippines and then China. Another account holds that in 1611, Ryukyuan King Sho Nei sent a gift of sweet potatoes to Satsuma Domain, a powerful political entity in southern Kyushu, which had invaded his kingdom and taken over his land – one result of which is that the orange tubers sometimes still bear the name \u003Cem\u003Esatsuma-imo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (potato from Satsuma).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of their path to get there, over time, roasted sweet potatoes proved very popular in Japan. Stalls were set up at the main guard buildings in post towns along important highways, and their sweetness and aroma – and their affordability – caught on. Signs at stalls sometimes advertised them as \"\u003Cem\u003Ekuri-yori-umai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (better than chestnuts). \"In Tokyo, many ate them mixed with \u003Cem\u003Eokayu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (porridge made of rice and barley),\" Rath said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c76pf2"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe snack became so well-loved that on 8 May 1891, Tokyo newspaper Yomiuri Shimbun called them \"the \u003Cem\u003Ekasutera\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [Portuguese-inspired sponge cake] for students and the \u003Cem\u003Eyōkan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [a hard, jelly-like sweet made from red beans] for alley society.\" The insinuation was that cooked sweet potatoes were a worthy, cheap alternative to otherwise refined sweet treats available at the time. As the century turned, students started influencing the way sweet potatoes were prepared. \u003Cem\u003EDaigaku-imo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (university sweet potatoes) were wedges slathered in molasses, so named because they were originally sold and eaten in Kanda, near Tokyo University. \"By 1905, there were 1,300 yaki-imo places in Tokyo,\" Rath said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs yaki-imo became a staple winter food for low-income areas, sweet potato specialty stores and vendors boomed in the early 20th Century. But in 1942, the wartime Staple Food Control Act rationed the sale of various foods, including rice and sweet potatoes, and many sweet potato shops were closed. Nevertheless, they became a key staple during World War Two, when crops like wheat and barley were even scarcer. \"Sweet potato flour was used as a substitute for wheat flour,\" Rath explained. \"From 1944, public lands were converted into potato patches, and sweet potatoes would replace the meagre rice allotments in public rations by 1945.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFollowing a post-war revision to the Staple Food Control Act, which released sweet potatoes from government regulation, vendors returned to the streets. They soon started to use a small oven fitted directly onto the back of the kei trucks, and these peaked in popularity over the next couple of decades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Yaki-imo served as a kind of fast food for the common people until around 1970, when American-style snack foods and fast-food restaurants began to appear in Japan,\" Tanaka said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOno's success, however, is proof that the classic food still has a following. \"It is a tradition of autumn and winter in Japan,\" he said, adding that his sales average around 100 yaki-imo per day, and his customer base stretches from seven to 90 years old.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOno credited the continued popularity of roasted sweet potatoes not only to their longstanding heritage, but also to the fact that they're a healthy, unadulterated and comforting fast food – particularly in the midst of the pandemic. \"Since people have been spending more time at home, the focus has very much been on easy-to-purchase health foods, and many customers have visited the truck,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c76prs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKamatani has found success too, but by going a different way. For her, she felt that the snack's old-school image needed to change. \"Young women like sweet potatoes, but they have this image as 'old-fashioned' or 'lame', and people think 'I want to eat them, but they're embarrassing to buy',\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo subvert that reputation, she focused on \u003Cem\u003Eonkochishin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – an idiom meaning \"learning new ideas from the past\" – and started her venture with a stylish, tricked-out, pink VW campervan in 2018. Fast-forward to 2021, and her business has moved into a permanent (and still pink) storefront in the fashionable Omotesando district of Tokyo. \"All of the sales staff, the imo [potato] girls and imo boys, are influencers,\" she explained. \"They're cool, fashionable young men and women.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite Kamitani's modern approach, she recognised the allure of those old-school vendors. \"I don't think [they] will disappear,\" she said. \"Because they are 'rare', there are some customers who are fascinated by that sense of rarity and want to buy from them, so there is a certain demand.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those willing, starting a yaki-imo truck is relatively easy. Unlike other gastronomic enterprises in Japan, no food licence is needed – only a permit to sell from the truck. There's even a company called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.yakiimo.org\u002Fproducts.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYaki-imo Kobo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Yaki-imo Workshop) that provides information for potential vendors and sells everything they'll need to set up a mobile shop – including cassette tapes of the yaki-imo song.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think there's a growing appreciation and nostalgia for food vendors that will allow them to continue,\" Rath said. \"The yaki-imo seller is one of the harbingers of the seasons... It's hard to imagine an urban landscape without them.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Tanaka, the secret is simplicity: roasted sweet potatoes are naturally sweet and can be eaten straight off the coals. It's nutritious, filling and \"a great snack alternative to junk food\", she said. \"Yaki-imo is and always will be a heart-warming treat that holds many fond memories.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-6"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-05-19T00:52:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The endurance of Japan's simple street snack","headlineShort":"Japan's simple, centuries-old snack","image":["p0c7jc63"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"35.6681621","longitude":"139.6004401","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6267dfc91f4b7b565656c4b5"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0c7jc63"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220516-the-true-origin-of-french-macarons","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190522-the-cat-who-saved-a-japanese-rail-line"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Eaten right off the coals, yaki-imo (roasted sweet potatoes) are a beloved centuries-old food, whether they're served by old-fashioned street vendors or modern \"imo\" girls and boys.","summaryShort":"It's a straightforward street food with an iconic theme song","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fcity"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-18T22:19:43.38136Z","entity":"article","guid":"ae1501f3-878b-46f6-b3b5-c3c9df636557","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-20T17:09:35.314407Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ftokyo","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fjapan","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_japan_tokyo_asia_japan_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355533},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette","_id":"6267dfa81f4b7b3e5257e5b5","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Every year, Paris holds a Grand Prix to crown the city’s best baguette – and in recent years, the winners have been bakers whose ‘origins’ are far from France.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStroll through Paris first thing in the morning, and you’ll see lines of people snaking out of their local boulangeries for their morning bread. That’s because, throughout France, getting up early and buying a baguette is more than second nature; it’s a way of life. According to the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.observatoiredupain.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EObservatoire du Pain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (yes, France has a scientific ‘Bread Observatory’), the French consume 320 baguettes every second – that’s an average of half a baguette per person per day and 10 billion every year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s no surprise, then, that France takes its baguettes seriously. In fact, every April since 1994, a jury of experts has been gathering in Paris for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.paris.fr\u002Fprixdelabaguette\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Grand Prix de la Baguette\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: a competition to determine who makes the very best in the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190804-why-the-french-love-to-say-no\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy the French love to say no\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190404-the-massive-cost-of-saving-notre-dame\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe massive cost of saving Notre-Dame\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180205-how-waterford-blaa-changed-breakfast-in-ireland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe bread that changed how the Irish eat breakfast\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEach year, some 200 bakers in Paris enter the competition, delivering two of their best baguettes to a panel of expert jurors first thing in the morning. The baguettes are inspected to ensure that they measure between 55-65cm in length and weigh between 250-300g. Less than half of the 400-plus baguettes that are entered into the competition meet these strict criteria and move on to round two: judging.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the next round, the 14-member jury – which includes culinary journalists, the previous year’s winner and a few lucky volunteers – analyse the remaining loaves based on five distinct categories: \u003Cem\u003Ela cuisson \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(baking), \u003Cem\u003El’aspect\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (appearance), \u003Cem\u003El’odeur \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(smell), \u003Cem\u003Ele goût\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (taste) and the oh-so-French \u003Cem\u003Ela mie\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (crumb). A baguette’s crumb should be tender but not damp; spring back when pressed; and exhibit the large, irregular holes that show it has been allowed to slowly ferment and develop flavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You could have exactly the same recipe, and if one person is more passionate than the other, they’ll have a better result","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELast year’s champion, Mahmoud M’Seddi, was the youngest-ever winner of the annual competition, at age 27. “I was lucky enough to grow up in a bakery,” recounted M’Seddi, as he led me past his irregular, hand-formed loaves at his small Boulangerie M’Seddi Moulins des Prés, in the 13th arrondissement. “I grew up with my parents, as opposed to kids who were in day care or with nannies. I was always in the bakery.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EM’Seddi’s passion for baking is palpable and stems from his father. Originally from Tunisia, M’Seddi’s father arrived in France in the late 1980s while pursuing a degree in electrical engineering. “During his school vacation, he came to Paris to work in a bakery to make some pocket money, and he fell in love [with bread making]. He didn’t finish his studies. Instead, he started working as a baker,“ M’Seddi recounted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EM’Seddi has fond memories of watching his father turn dough into baton-shaped baguettes and working alongside him as a child.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It was like being a magician,” he recalled. “That’s how I saw myself when I was small, mixing things together. I had so much fun doing it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough his mother warned him against becoming a professional baker because of the gruelling hours and lack of holiday time, M’Seddi decided to join the family business. M’Seddi and his father now run three Parisian bakeries: Boulangerie M’Seddi Moulin des Près, located just south of the picturesque Butte aux Cailles neighbourhood; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBoulangerie-Maison-Mseddi-347075965661506\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBoulangerie Maison M’Seddi Tolbiac\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a few hundred metres away; and Boulangerie Maison M’Seddi in the 14th arrondissement.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EM’Seddi gets up each day at 04:00 to begin preparing the dough for his now-famous loaves, which are made entirely by hand. Fat in shape and lightly caramelised on the outside, they are the epitome of what a truly good Parisian baguette should be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut he keeps the secrets of his perfect baguette under wraps. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I won’t tell,” said M’Seddi with a wry smile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to 2017 winner Sami Bouattour, baguette perfection is just as elusive as M’Seddi is making it out to be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When I was on the jury,” Bouattour said, “it was easy to pick the 10 or 20 baguettes that stood out. But after that, when you’re comparing number three and number eight, the differences are so small.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor M’Seddi, the magic that makes his baguette stand out from the billions of others consumed in France each year is simple: passion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You could have exactly the same recipe,” he said. “And if one person is more passionate than the other, they’ll have a better result. Even if you’ve done exactly the same thing, it won’t be the same. It’s like magic.” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EM’Seddi has earned the right to place a large, gold decal in his bakery window advertising his status as a champion of the baguette. But that’s not all. Each year’s winner also has the honour of supplying the president of France with his daily bread – a privilege M’Seddi proudly shared with the public by publishing videos on social media of his early-morning routine toting a basket of fresh baguettes towards the immense Elysée Palace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEmmanuel Macron is evidently quite passionate about France’s loaf-making legacy: in 2018, the president \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-42674724\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einsisted\u003C\u002Fa\u003E the French baguette be granted Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage status. Neapolitan pizza, Croatian gingerbread and flatbread from Central Asia already appear on the Unesco list. But according to Macron, “the baguette is the envy of the whole world”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut while there are few symbols as quintessentially French as the baguette, its status – and quality – have been \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20131007-the-death-of-the-french-baguette\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Euncertain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in recent years. Beginning in the 1950s, bakers began looking for shortcuts to make baguettes more quickly: relying on frozen, pre-made dough; and baking baguettes in moulds rather than free form. Instead of the crispy-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside loaves that M’Seddi bakes every morning, these pale, doughy baguettes became stale almost the moment they cooled down. By the 1990s, they had become the norm for bakers and Parisians. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Those bakers at that time were happy,” said Bouattour, as he led me past the fresh loaves at his \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FArletteetColette\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArlette & Colette\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Paris’ 17th arrondissement. “But it killed our profession.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn an attempt to save traditional French baguettes from widespread industrialisation, France passed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.legifrance.gouv.fr\u002FaffichTexte.do?cidTexte=JORFTEXT000000727617\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Décret Pain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (‘The Bread Decree’) in 1993, establishing that, by law, an authentic \u003Cem\u003Ebaguette de tradition\u003C\u002Fem\u003E must be made by hand, sold in the same place it’s baked and only made with water, wheat flour, yeast and salt. Today, these new ‘traditional baguettes’ make up about half of the baguettes sold in large French cities – and are the specimens judged in the competition that has taken place every year since 1994.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet, today, some claim that supermarket bread, far cheaper than loaves purchased at bakeries, is edging artisans out of the marketplace. After all, reports French radio station \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.europe1.fr\u002Fsociete\u002Fen-france-les-petites-boulangeries-sont-dans-le-petrin-3346799\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEurope 1\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, 1,200 small bakeries in France close every year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s shameful,” M’Seddi said. “It’s bread. It’s France. You need to buy it in a bakery, where people get up early, where they make it by hand.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to winning this illustrious competition, Bouattour and M’Seddi have a few other things in common. Both forewent the traditional trade school that many aspiring French bakers enter at age 16. Both have been professional bakers for less than a decade (as has this year’s winner, former engineer Fabrice Leroy). And both are first-generation Frenchmen with what Bouattour euphemistically dubs ‘origins’: family backgrounds from elsewhere – or in their cases, Tunisia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEvoking one’s ethnic background is taboo in nominally egalitarian France. The government has not collected racial or religious information from its citizens since the 1970s (a policy that stems in no small part from censuses performed during France’s Nazi occupation). But while France’s official political stance is intended to engender equality, its reality of beaches \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-37173673\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eforbidding burkinis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and naturalisation offices offering to ‘\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.service-public.fr\u002Fparticuliers\u002Fvosdroits\u002FF10528\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrenchify\u003C\u002Fa\u003E’ new citizens’ names seems to tell those with ‘origins’ one thing: assimilate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt Arlette & Colette, Bouattour sells a range of breads, pastries and viennoiseries, all made by hand each day and all using certified organic ingredients. “Sometimes we get clients coming in saying, ‘The neighbourhood is full of Tunisians – thank God you guys are here!’” he said, referring to him and his wife, who works alongside him in the bakery. “But we have Tunisian origins too.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, Le Grand Prix de la Baguette contest does a fairly good job of creating an even playing field for participating bakers, regardless of their backgrounds or experience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“All the baguettes were numbered, so we had no idea about who we were evaluating,” explained Meg Zimbeck, founder of restaurant review site \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fparisbymouth.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParis by Mouth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, of her experience as a past jury member. “The biggest potential problem is palate fatigue. We tasted \u003Cem\u003Ea lot\u003C\u002Fem\u003E of baguettes.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EInterestingly, before M’Seddi’s victory in 2018, three of the last four years’ winners were also French bakers of African origins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDjibril Bodian is the baker behind picturesque Montmartre’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Flegrenierapain.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Grenier à Pain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E bakery. Also a son of a baker – and a first-generation Frenchman of Senegalese origin – Bodian decided at age 16 to follow in his father’s footsteps. Almost immediately, his bakery school teachers recognised his natural aptitude for the trade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When I became a baker 22 years ago, no-one thought that a baguette could bring you to the Elysée Palace","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The teacher started using me as a good example, saying to the others, ‘Do it like Djibril!’,” he recalled. “It made me feel recognised, but it also put pressure on me. I didn’t want to disappoint him.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a rule, the baker who wins the Le Grand Prix de la Baguette competition is not allowed to compete for the following four years. But after earning the title of Paris’ best baguette in 2010, Bodian said, “I had only one desire: to enter again as quickly as possible. So for four years, while people might have thought I was resting on my laurels, I was already working, trying to improve.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2015, Bodian won the contest for a second time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It was an immense pleasure and an honour,” he said, laughing. “But when I became a baker 22 years ago, no-one thought that a baguette could bring you to the Elysée Palace.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBodian credits his success to both his Senegalese background and values and his French training.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I stopped thinking of myself as a foreigner a long time ago, but my origins make me the person I am today,” he said. “We all start with the same tools, the same teachers, but some people are going to understand things differently. That has nothing to do with origins; that’s just talent.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We need to make people proud to be French","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBodian, Bouattour and M’Seddi’s stories echo those of France’s 2018 World Cup winning team. Since more than half the roster was comprised of players with African heritage, the victory triggered a national \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-africa-44885923\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edebate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E over French identity and led many of the team’s players to assertively lay claim to their Frenchness. Much like these players, Bodian notes that the Grand Prix’s participants and results represent France as it is today: a diverse and multicultural country made up of people who are proud to be French.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Whoever wins the contest is a winner,” M’Seddi said. “He’s a champion, whether he’s descended from immigrants or not.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd while he brushes off the importance of evoking one’s foreign roots, he does admit that there is a certain element of pride when someone of foreign origin takes top prize.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“That’s someone who’s passionate about French culture, who has become integrated as a French person,” he said. “We need to make people proud to be French.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat better way to do so than by tearing into a baguette?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-08-26T14:13:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The perfect French baguette","headlineShort":"The perfect French baguette","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Every year, Paris holds a Grand Prix to crown the city’s best baguette – and in recent years, the winners have been bakers whose ‘origins’ are far from France.","summaryShort":"It's so good that it’s hand-delivered to the French president each morning","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:36:41.998522Z","entity":"article","guid":"8741a0c3-9839-4f87-8e98-24f7e136c9c5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:55:14.299283Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355535},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill","_id":"6267df9d1f4b7b304424839e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"video","assetVideo":[],"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In France's Basque country, a quaint bakery still uses old methods to make the region's beloved shortbread cake. The sights and sounds of the mill and bakery keep people coming.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"You'll have to move quickly,\" Gerard Lhuillier told me as I stepped inside \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.moulindebassilour.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoulin de Bassilour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, camera in hand. \"The cakes are almost done!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt 08:00 on a weekday morning, the quaint bakery in the French Basque village of Bidart is buzzing. Many hands shuffle dozens of round cake tins from one station to another in perfect synchronisation. Owner and head baker Lhuillier stamps circles in a layer of dough. Another baker spreads the filling – either black cherry jam or yellow pastry cream. As the cakes get their tops, the team comes together to seal the layers with a fork. A metallic scratching sound fills the room.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Basque cakes are topped with dough and then sealed with a fork","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe rounds of raw dough, now shiny from a brush of egg wash, are loaded onto wooden planks and carried to the brick oven. These 150 traditional shortbread cakes – called \u003Cem\u003EGâteau Basque\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – are the bakery's pride and joy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGâteau Basque has become an emblem of the French Basque Country, a region known for fierce cultural pride. Like the trendy \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Ffood\u002Frecipes\u002Fbasque_burnt_cheesecake_12442\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eburnt Basque cheesecake\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that hails from the nearby Spanish coast, the popularity of the Gâteau Basque lies in its elegant simplicity and a recent interest by international visitors looking to sample a decidedly regional treat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the exact origins of the recipe are unclear, legend has it that a Basque woman named Marianne Hirigoyen is to thank for the modern version of the cake. Originally from a thermal village called Cambo-les-Bains, Hirigoyen began to make and sell her Gâteau Basque in the market of Bayonne sometime around the 1830s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the next century, the cake remained a traditional dessert eaten after Sunday dinners as each household's recipe was passed down from one generation to the next.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gâteau Basque has become an emblem of the French Basque Country","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen tourists began to discover the Basque coast in the 1960s, they brought back tales of beautiful beaches and a crumbly, cream-filled cake that couldn't be found anywhere else. In recent years, Gâteau Basque has become a tourist attraction in its own right, and today the cake is proudly displayed in bakery windows around the region. At Moulin de Bassilour, however, visitors and locals come for more than just a taste of the bakery's signature item: here, passers-by get a first-hand look at how the cake was made generations ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen the frenzy of baking had almost subsided, Lhuillier brought me into the bakery's front room where thick stone walls braced by wooden beams keep the air cool even in summer. Two large mills sat dormant in the centre of the room. Through the window, I could see that the stream running under the bakery was still.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Passers-by get a first-hand look at how the cake was made generations ago","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELhuillier poured a sack of wheat into the hopper. He pulled on a long, metal lever, and water gushed almost instantly. The stones began to turn. What could have been mistaken for a museum only seconds ago is now overcome by a symphony of clicks and whirring. Through a crack in the floor, I could see the water splashing violently against the mill's wooden paddles. Out of the grinding table came a chalky, fine powder: flour to be used in the next day's cakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe water mill was constructed around 1741, Lhuillier told me, and sits on a canal that was dug by hand specifically for that purpose. For almost 200 years, the mill remained two simple rooms with an oven only big enough for a few loaves of bread. Farmers could pay the mill owner to grind their harvests.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gerard Lhuillier makes flour from a water mill that was constructed around 1741","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 1934, the grandmother of Lhuillier's wife arrived in Bidart with her seven children and saw an opportunity. Using her traditional Gâteau Basque recipe, she began to make and sell cakes to support her family. When she retired, she handed over the business to her son.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1994, after having trained as a mechanic and served in the army, Lhuillier found himself working in a hardware store. Although he had never baked before, he jumped at the chance to buy the bakery and the original recipes along with it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190825-the-perfect-french-baguette\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe perfect French baguette\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180723-whats-in-a-name-frances-fight-over-chocolate-pastry\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrance's fight over chocolate pastry\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200520-rice-pudding-a-simple-french-dish-made-from-pantry-staples\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA simple French dish made from pantry staples\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis in-laws were hesitant, but Lhuillier convinced them that his love for tinkering with all things mechanical was the perfect match for the historical operation. In the years that followed, Lhuillier added a more modern atelier to the bakery and invited the Basque country's growing number of tourists to come and see the mill at work. Maintaining a centuries-old water mill in functioning condition is not easy, but Lhuillier says it's been a life-long passion project.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I know I will die before I finish everything that I need to do and want to do,\" he said. \"But I've already done quite a bit and that gives me great satisfaction.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's unclear what will happen to the mill once Lhuillier can no longer be its champion. He doesn't see a clear successor but says the threats to the mill's existence stretch beyond a question of inheritance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"At Moulin de Bassilour, visitors get a first-hand look at how the Gâteau Basque is made","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESince the early 2000s, environmentalist groups in France have alleged that water mills, even historical ones, bear some responsibility for the decline in native fish populations. In the past decade, dozens of water mills have been disassembled or otherwise rendered inoperational as local governments decide that the environmental damage outweighs the need for preservation of the heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELhuillier believes the environmental groups are turning a blind eye to the real culprit for the lack of fish – pesticides and pollution that are far less visible than the paddles of a water mill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Sixty years ago, there were fish. That means the water wheel didn't bother them,\" he said. \"I'm worried that when I'm gone, the mill will stop. It's a battle.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn a sunny summer day, questions about the mill's future seem a distant worry. Customers wander around the millstones before heading into the bakery to buy the fresh-baked goods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm sending these to Paris!\" one woman explained, as her two golden brown cakes were wrapped in white wax paper and tied with ribbon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile many visitors enjoy the black cherry filling, Lhuillier says that the pastry cream flavour is actually the more traditional of the two varieties since it uses the same, simple ingredients found in the dough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The typical fillings for Gâteau Basque are either black cherry jam or yellow pastry cream","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's a cake from grandma's house with the ingredients of the farm: milk, flour, eggs. It's passed down in families,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUp until the 1980s, Moulin de Bassilour made its fruit-filled version of the cake with apricot jam. Now, Lhuillier uses a local black cherry variety, which is another traditional flavour. His homemade pastry cream still remains the best seller.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Many bakers flavour their pastry cream with almond, but on a farm we would never start to add an ingredient that costs a lot of money,\" he said. \"Our flavouring is a bit of rum because in Basque country there's always a bit of rum on hand for cooling down the coffee.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELhuillier says his commitment to the simplicity of the recipe is what keeps the bakery going year after year, and he feels proud to continue the tradition of his region. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We haven't changed the recipe for more than 60 years but each generation that passes likes it, he said. \"It's a Gâteau Basque that pleases the palettes of people who come from everywhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-09T20:19:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Basque cake made with a 280-year-old water mill","headlineShort":"A sweet emblem of French Basque Country","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gâteau Basque has become an emblem of the French Basque Country","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"43.4331177","longitude":"-1.5729942","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Gâteau Basque has become an emblem of the French Basque Country","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In France's Basque country, a quaint bakery still uses old methods to make the region's beloved shortbread cake. The sights and sounds of the mill and bakery keep people coming.","summaryShort":"People come here for more than just a taste of the bakery's signature item","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-08T20:20:11.529239Z","entity":"article","guid":"cb46981a-b6e7-4ff7-8491-ceb0c948e9de","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:30:37.462544Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355535},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180723-whats-in-a-name-frances-fight-over-chocolate-pastry":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180723-whats-in-a-name-frances-fight-over-chocolate-pastry","_id":"6267dfb81f4b7b357d59cd80","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"video","assetVideo":[],"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Known as a ‘pain au chocolat’ in Paris and a ‘chocolatine’ in south-west France, this ubiquitous, flaky pastry is now at the heart of a parliamentary debate.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ffood-wars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFood Wars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture’s identity.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180723-whats-in-a-name-frances-fight-over-chocolate-pastry-0"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-07-24T15:08:42Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"What’s in a name: France’s fight over chocolate pastry","headlineShort":"France's outrage over a pastry","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Known as a ‘pain au chocolat’ in Paris and a ‘chocolatine’ in south-west France, this ubiquitous, flaky pastry is now at the heart of a parliamentary debate.","summaryShort":"The debate has climbed all the way to the French Parliament","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:20:47.399925Z","entity":"article","guid":"4e2ca54b-27b1-4959-9113-604c22aadd7b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180723-whats-in-a-name-frances-fight-over-chocolate-pastry","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:33:32.6909Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180723-whats-in-a-name-frances-fight-over-chocolate-pastry","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355535},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191218-the-worlds-most-radical-chef":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191218-the-worlds-most-radical-chef","_id":"6267df831f4b7b297f31dbad","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Spanish chef Ángel León is on a mission to promote sustainability by turning to the ocean’s vast untapped resources to redefine how we eat seafood.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChef Ángel León wants to change how people think about seafood, and by all accounts, he’s succeeding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHis three-Michelin-starred restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.aponiente.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAponiente\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, has made waves around the world by using high-tech methods to creatively transform seemingly inedible parts of the ocean into masterfully crafted 20- and 22-course tasting menus that almost exclusively incorporate ingredients from the sea. Bread is made from scratch using seawater; discarded scraps from commercial fishermen are used to make seafood bourguignon and a charcuterie board; microscopic bright-green plankton are engineered into paella; and edible crustacean shells come swimming in bowls filled with stunning bioluminescent light produced by underwater organisms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191218-the-worlds-most-radical-chef-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191218-the-worlds-most-radical-chef-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocated in an old tide mill just off the Guadalete river and marsh lands of El Puerto de Santa María in south-west Spain, the experimental restaurant relies on its surroundings for its unique ingredients. In a world of overfishing, climate fluctuation and endangered ecosystems, Aponiente’s mission is to promote sustainability while introducing diners to the ocean’s vast untapped resources. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs such, León turns to tossed out and overlooked “marine waste” and “humble products” like marine sugars and sea vegetables that largely go uncultivated to show how there is an entire culinary universe swimming in the ocean that people are unaware of. After being named the best chef in Spain by the Royal Academy of Gastronomy in 2014, León recently received the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.finedininglovers.com\u002Farticle\u002Fchef-angel-leon-aponiente-michelin-sustainability-award\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMichelin Guide Spain & Portugal 2020 Sustainability Award\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for his commitment to sustainable culinary practices. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith dishes that glow in the dark and courses that are are as visually stunning as they are appetizing, Aponiente’s immersive three-hour tasting menus are more than just dinner and a show; they’re a journey into unchartered culinary waters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Video by \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ERafael Estefania\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, text by Bernadette Young)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191218-the-worlds-most-radical-chef-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-12-19T20:30:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The world’s most radical chef?","headlineShort":"The world’s best seafood restaurant","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Spanish chef Ángel León is on a mission to promote sustainability by turning to the ocean’s vast untapped resources to redefine how we eat seafood.","summaryShort":"How one chef is transforming the ocean’s ‘trash’ into 20-course feasts","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:42:21.383554Z","entity":"article","guid":"26303b9d-4cb7-4470-b893-55508627ae11","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191218-the-worlds-most-radical-chef","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:01:39.640787Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191218-the-worlds-most-radical-chef","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355536},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","_id":"6267e0311f4b7b6a3b306900","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Gluten-free, sweet and nutritionally dense, tiger nuts are being hailed as a rising \"superfood\". But in Valencia, Spain, these tasty tubers have been popular for centuries.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStretching across the drying room in a vast, rippled expanse, the tiger nuts seemed almost like desert dunes. I'd come to Valencia towards the end of their harvesting and found the sight of this immense volume – hundreds upon thousands, perhaps even millions – impressive. Singling one out, however, I was surprised to discover a small, wrinkled form that looked distinctly less inspiring. Where tiger nuts are concerned, it turns out, appearances really are deceiving.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFirstly they're not actually nuts, despite being firm and brown, but tubers of the sedge plant \u003Cem\u003ECyperus esculentus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. And in spite of their peculiar misshapen looks, they're considered the ultimate health food. \"They're packed full of nutrients like fibre and iron, making them great for gut health, and are gluten and lactose-free too,\" said Ani de la Prida, who co-founded \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thetigernutcompany.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Tiger Nut Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2016. Rumour says they even boost libido.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlso very moreish (as I've realised), with a creamy texture and sweet nutty aftertaste, tiger nuts have been \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goodhousekeeping.com\u002Fhealth\u002Fdiet-nutrition\u002Fa20706671\u002Fhealth-benefits-of-tiger-nuts\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehailed as a rising \"superfood\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Good Housekeeping magazine in the US . Yet in Spain, where they're known as \"\u003Cem\u003Echufas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\", these plant powerhouses have been popular for centuries – particularly in Valencia, whose beloved chufa-based drink \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E dates to the 13th Century. So integral is this milky beverage to Valencian culture that, alongside cafes and ice cream parlours, it's served up in its own specialist stores known as \u003Cem\u003Ehorchaterías\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Horchateria Daniel in Valencia's Colón Market","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHorchata is indelibly linked to Valencia's success in tiger nut cultivation, a practice that began in Ancient Egypt (the tubers have even been found buried in pharaohs' tombs) before spreading throughout wider North Africa; from there it was introduced into Valencia following the Muslim conquest of Hispania in 711. Cultivation took hold in L'Horta Nord, part of a vast agricultural region on the city's outskirts, known in English as \"The Orchard\". It now takes place across 19 towns in the area, where the sandy soil coupled with Valencia's temperate climate makes for ideal growing conditions. About 5.3 million kilograms of tiger nuts are produced here, 90% of which are covered by a special \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fen.chufadevalencia.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDenomination of Origin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E status designed to regulate quality among regional products in the European Union.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpain's ingenious water maze\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe vegetable outlawed by royalty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe real reason why Spaniards eat late\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELegend claims that James I of Aragon, King of Valencia from 1238 to 1276, was served horchata by a young woman in the L'Horta Nord town of Alboraya. She introduced it as \"\u003Cem\u003Ellet de xufa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (Valencian for \"chufa milk\"), to which he replied \"\u003Cem\u003ELlet no, això és or xata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E!\"(\"That's not milk, that's gold, pretty girl!\"). Tempting as the fable is, the word \"horchata\" actually stems from the Latin \u003Cem\u003Ehordeata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"of barley\": the term was originally coined for a barley-based drink but has since come to signify a range of \"plant milk\" beverages across the world, also including versions such as Mexico's \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata de arroz\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rice). Regardless, inspired by the tale of Valencia's enthusiastic king, \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata de chufa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is still affectionally nicknamed \"white gold\" to this day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI tried my first glass in the city's Colón Market, a striking Art Nouveau edifice that recalls renowned Catalonian architect Antoni Gaudí, and instantly could see the appeal. Sweet, cool and refreshing, it's essentially like drinking tiger nuts – after all, the only other primary ingredient is water – and contains all their nutritional properties to boot. The only caveat was the extra sugar, something I'd argue isn't needed but is a popular addition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Tiger nut crops in front of Alquería El Machistre in L'Horta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Valencians have a sweet tooth,\" laughed Toni Peinado, co-owner at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhorchateria-daniel.es\u002F\"\u003EHorchatería Daniel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in whose second branch I was sitting. Arguably Valencia's most famous horchatería company, it was founded by Alboraya-born Daniel Tortajada, one of the first people to start selling horchata, in 1949: previously, perhaps because tiger nut cultivation was too labour-intensive before the widespread use of machinery, it had largely been a non-commercial drink made in homes for family events and festive days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter selling horchata from his house and the local market, Tortajada launched his first standalone premise in 1979 on what would come to be known as the Avenida de la Horchata (Horchata Avenue), a road connecting Valencia and the nearby town of Alboraya. He was also instrumental in founding the Association of Artisan Horchata Makers, becoming its first president and soliciting Denomination of Origin status for the region's tiger nuts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince then, two more generations of Tortajadas have taken the reins of the business, which has received everyone from surrealist artist Salvador Dalí to actor Vigo Mortensen throughout its illustrious history. Now, also encompassing two Valencia sites alongside its Alboraya flagship store, the brand has continued its enterprising spirit with a diverse range of tiger nut products spanning cosmetics to bakery goods. The latter is particularly apt as it was founder Daniel, Peinado told me, who inspired the custom of accompanying horchata with \u003Cem\u003Efartons\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – long, spongy buns designed for dunking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Enjoying a glass of horchata and some fartons is one of our favourite ways to socialise,\" he said, \"much like with the British and their tea.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Fartons laid out at Horchateria Santa Catalina in Valencia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitvalencia.com\u002Fen\u002Fwhat-to-do-valencia\u002Fgastronomy\u002Fwhat-to-eat\u002Fesmorzaret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhile the inventor of horchata de chufa is unknown, 13th-Century records show a comparable drink being made near Valencia: it's clearly imbued with history and tradition, and the same can be said for the L'Horta region in which tiger nuts are farmed. Listed as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fgiahs\u002Fgiahsaroundtheworld\u002Fdesignated-sites\u002Feurope-and-central-asia\u002Fhistorical-waterscape-of-lhorta-de-valencia\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003EGlobally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"The Orchard\" is famed for its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eancient Arabic irrigation system\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – which sees farmers don black dress and gather weekly for the Water Court, a Unesco-inscribed practice dating back more than 1,000 years – and is the birthplace of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitvalencia.com\u002Fen\u002Fwhat-to-do-valencia\u002Fgastronomy\u002Fwhat-to-eat\u002Fesmorzaret\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eesmorzaret\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Valencian \"mid-morning snack\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Enjoying a glass of horchata and some fartons is one of our favourite ways to socialise","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis melange of paddies and plantations just outside of Valencia is also home to distinctive regional architecture, from humble \u003Cem\u003Ebarraca\u003C\u002Fem\u003E farmhouses with steeply pitched roofs to \u003Cem\u003Ealquerías\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the grand country residences typically occupied by wealthy landowners. It's one of these, Alquería El Machistre, that houses the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.comunitatvalenciana.com\u002Fen\u002Fvalencia\u002Falboraia-alboraya\u002Fmuseums\u002Fmuseo-de-la-horchata\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseum of Horchata and Tiger Nuts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: based near the town of Alboraya in the chufa stronghold of L'Horta Nord, it opened in 2007 and can be visited by appointment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisits  include a tour of the 11th-Century alquería itself, a sprawling white-washed manor whose largely 18th-Century interior reflects historical local trades like silk and ceramics. When I arrived on an unusually overcast day, I was led round by affable guide Victoria Buzón before heading to the horchata museum, situated in a small but information-packed room with adjoining interior courtyard. Here, I learned that the tiger nut plant likely originated in West Africa, where it was used in medicinal potions. \"Nowadays, West Africa has its own versions of horchata de chufa,\" said Buzón, \"though its chufas are bigger and have less flavour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBuzón also explained how tiger nuts are cultivated in L'Horta Nord. It's a slow, meticulous process that begins with planting between March and May, when temperatures are gentler with lots of humidity. Tubers are then collected from November to January with a harvester, after which the ground is burned to manage further spread: considered an invasive species (and a weed in much of the world), \u003Cem\u003ECyperus esculentus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E must be carefully managed. Once washed, the tiger nuts are dried for about three months in specially ventilated buildings known as \"\u003Cem\u003Ecambras\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" before being manually sorted to remove any damaged specimens or impurities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"B&W photo of men harvesting tiger nuts in L'Horta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn contrast, making horchata is relatively straightforward: cleansed tiger nuts are soaked for eight to 12 hours before being ground and added to water. Next, the macerated mixture is pressed and sifted to create the final extract, to which sugar is usually added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet within this deceptively simple concoction lie millennia of painstaking labour and royal legends, Pharaonic burials and age-old traditions. Stir in tiger nuts' extensive health benefits and it's easy to see how this potent Valencian super-drink really can be considered \"white gold\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-25T00:14:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Spain's 'white gold' super-drink","headlineShort":"Spain's 'white gold' super-drink","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.466667","longitude":"-0.375000","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Gluten-free, sweet and nutritionally dense, tiger nuts are being hailed as a rising \"superfood\". But in Valencia, Spain, these tasty tubers have been popular for centuries.","summaryShort":"This sweet, milky beverage is gluten-free and nutritionally dense","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-24T20:23:45.028552Z","entity":"article","guid":"e6871a28-806a-4166-8132-3de1f0e724e9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-24T20:23:45.028552Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355537},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late","_id":"6267df7a1f4b7b1f8d295b0f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Many travellers believe Spain’s late mealtimes are a reflection of the country’s laidback attitude, but that couldn’t be further from the truth.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt is 10pm in the Madrid neighbourhood of La Latina, one of the city’s oldest areas, and the cobbled streets thrum with the sounds of people enjoying plates of \u003Cem\u003Egambas al ajillo \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(garlic prawns) and \u003Cem\u003Ecocido Madrileño \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a hearty chickpea, pork and chorizo stew). Restaurants are bustling at an hour when, in most other countries, chefs would be hanging up their aprons for the night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile travellers might attribute Spain’s late mealtimes to the country’s laidback Mediterranean attitude, the real reason is a little more peculiar. Spaniards are living in the wrong time zone, and have been for more than 70 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGlance at a map and you’ll realise that Spain – sitting, as it does, along the same longitude as the UK, Portugal and Morocco – should be in Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). But Spain goes by Central European Time (CET), putting it in sync with the Serbian capital Belgrade, more than 2,500km east of Madrid.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Spaniards are living in the wrong time zone, and have been for more than 70 years.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESo why are Spaniards living behind their geographic time zone?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 1940, General Francisco Franco changed Spain’s time zone, moving the clocks one hour forward in solidarity with Nazi Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Spaniards, who at the time were utterly devastated by the Spanish Civil War, complaining about the change did not even cross their minds. They continued to eat at the same time, but because the clocks had changed, their 1pm lunches became 2pm lunches, and they were suddenly eating their 8pm dinners at 9pm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter World War II ended, the clocks were never changed back. However, in 2016, Spanish Prime Minister Mariano Rajoy \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fmagazine-35995972\"\u003Eannounced\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the government was working on a plan to implement a new workday schedule ending at 6pm as opposed to 8pm. One important element of the plan was evaluating the possibility of changing Spain’s time zone from CET to GMT – something that has sparked a heated discussion throughout the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBeing 60 minutes behind the correct time zone means the sun rises later and sets later, bestowing Spain with gloriously long summer evenings and 10pm sunsets. Those who run Spain’s tourist resorts believe that more sunlight is a large draw for visitors. The regional government of the Balearic Islands ‒ which include Mallorca, Menorca and Ibiza ‒ is strongly against returning to GMT and has even campaigned to maintain year-round summer time (CET+1) to allow visitors to take full advantage of the region’s mild winter climate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut for many Spaniards, living in the wrong time zone has resulted in sleep deprivation and decreased productivity. The typical Spanish work day begins at 9am; after a two-hour lunch break between 2 and 4pm, employees return to work, ending their day around 8pm. The later working hours force Spaniards to save their social lives for the late hours. Prime-time television doesn’t start until 10:30pm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, in the northwestern region of Galicia, the sun doesn’t rise until after 9am in winter, meaning that residents are starting their day in the dark.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The fact that the time in Spain doesn’t correspond to the sun affects health, especially sleep,” said José Luis Casero, president of the National Commission for the Rationalization of Spanish Schedules, an organisation that has been campaigning for Spain to return to the correct time zone since 2006. “If we changed time zones, the sun would rise one hour earlier and we’d wake up more naturally, meal times would be one hour earlier and we’d get an extra hour’s sleep.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESpaniards have traditionally coped with their late nights by taking a mid-morning coffee break and a two-hour lunch break, giving them the opportunity to enjoy one of the country’s most famous traditions: the siesta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It doesn’t fit with reality.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChanging the workday would threaten Spaniards’ customary naptime, although whether or not citizens would mind is still up for debate. A January 2017 \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.simplelogica.com\u002Fiop\u002Fiop16020_la_siesta_entre_los_espa%C3%B1oles.asp\"\u003Estudy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by research company Simple Lógica found that less than 18% of Spaniards nap regularly, while nearly 60% never take a siesta. In fact, business owners in many of the country’s major cities and holiday resorts remain open during the midday break to cater to tourists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, those who do nap express frustration when changes in their daily routine prevent them from sleeping mid-day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We should really banish the siesta in Spain because it doesn’t fit with reality,” Casero said. “And with the change of time zone bringing meal times forward and giving us an extra hour of sleep, there would be less need for a rest at midday.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen it comes down to it, economist Nuria Chinchilla, an expert in work-life balance at the Instituto de Estudios Superiores de la Empresa business school in Barcelona, feels that quality of life for Spaniards is more pressing than preserving an extra hour or two of evening light for tourists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We have continuous jetlag,” she said. “Tourism will always be there and tourists don’t care. The number of hours of sunlight will be the same, whether it is an extra hour in the morning or in the evening.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin over three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-05-08T14:17:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The real reason why Spaniards eat late","headlineShort":"The strange reason Spaniards eat late","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Many travellers believe Spain’s late mealtimes are a reflection of the country’s laidback attitude, but that couldn’t be further from the truth.","summaryShort":"Spain’s famous late-night culture is not as traditional as you may think","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:00:52.985685Z","entity":"article","guid":"5377831d-ec43-49d0-bd82-dab7e76c692e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:08:11.079579Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355537},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela","_id":"627c3db81f4b7b457575a1d7","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsofia-perez"],"bodyIntro":"Now that the Galician chef has glimpsed an existence that is about more than just work, she won't go back. \"To be happy in the kitchen, you have to be happy outside of it.\"","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter its cathedral, Santiago de Compostela's most visited destination is the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mercadodeabastosdesantiago.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMercado de Abastos\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the city's main food market, but chef Lucía Freitas doesn't have to embark on a pilgrimage to get there – it's directly across the street from her flagship restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frestaurante.covermanager.com\u002Fa-tafona\u002F\"\u003EA Tafona\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Her workday begins in the Mercado, scrutinising the fruit, making small talk with her favourite chicken farmer or eying a basket of red peppers so shiny they look like they've been polished. Built in 1941, the market is currently home to about 70 producers and artisans who sell seafood, meat, cheese, produce and other quality comestibles from the region of Galicia in north-westernmost Spain, a mountainous web of coastal villages and lush green valleys.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Freitas, however, the Mercado is more than just a place to buy ingredients; it's an endless source of inspiration. All her projects, including two restaurants and a third on the way, are rooted here, and it has been a lifeline during the most challenging periods of her career, thanks to the \u003Cem\u003Epaisanas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rural women) who sell their wares in the stalls that line the old granite corridors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we walked through those halls last October, she nodded toward a seafood merchant at the end of a row. \"I couldn't have survived without women like Mari Carmen. She saw me here every day when I was pregnant, with my belly out to here,\" said Freitas, gesturing in front of her. \"She knew I was a single mom and that I was struggling to keep my restaurant afloat, so she'd sell me the most amazing fish at cost.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese days, when Freitas visits the market with Mauro, her six-year-old son, the paisanas dote on the boy as if he were the Mercado's collective child. Privately, she told me about some of the challenges these women have faced and the bonds she has forged with them. Her respect is evident. \"They are warriors,\" she said. \"They know what it means to have to fight for things.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo does Freitas. Even as she was working 18-hour days at A Tafona, the restaurant's inexpensive \u003Cem\u003Emenú del día\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a set price menu typically with a choice of appetiser, main and dessert) was strangling the business financially. Then, in 2016, about a month after she gave birth, her co-chef and business partner abruptly left the venture. She remembers the conversation she had with her father as if it were yesterday. \"I was holding my son in my arms and crying out of sheer frustration. If I could barely keep the restaurant afloat while working nonstop with a partner, how was I going to do it alone?\" But somehow, he convinced her to hold onto her dream a little bit longer, and a few days later, everything began to change.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5t9d4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat's when an acquaintance visited A Tafona for dinner accompanied by Marco González, a New York City restaurateur with local roots who, along with his two brothers, was looking to establish a Galician eatery in the Big Apple in memory of their parents. González was impressed by Freitas' work, and when they chatted after the meal, he asked her to consider designing the menu and kitchen of what would eventually become \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tominonyc.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETomiño\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in Manhattan's Little Italy neighbourhood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBefore leaving that day, he told her to determine her consulting fee. When the two reconvened a few weeks later, she was still in the throes of postpartum hormones and only getting a few hours of sleep per night, with the baby waking up constantly. She couldn't bring herself to utter the proposed figure, for fear it would seem ridiculously large. González, however, assumed she was playing hardball, so he scribbled something down on a piece of paper and passed it to her. \"He had added a ZERO at the end of the amount I was about to ask for,\" she said, her eyes widening. \"I put on my best poker face, but as soon as he left, my entire team and I started hugging each other. It was as if we'd won the lottery.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot only did the consulting project boost her visibility, but it also provided the capital she needed to begin revamping her Santiago restaurant and designing the kinds of tasting menus she'd always dreamt of offering. In 2018, a little more than a year after making the changes, A Tafona earned its first Michelin star. (Tomiño also earned Michelin's Bib Gourmand and a slew of rave reviews for her line-up of traditional Galician tapas.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5tbh8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFreitas began cooking at home at a young age alongside her father. An intensely introverted child, she was also a devoted viewer of Basque chef Karlos Arguiñano, Spain's most well-known TV chef, who has been on the air for more than 30 years. After school, she would head home to watch his show and then attempt to make some of the dishes she'd seen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt 19, she decided to attend culinary school in Bilbao, where she learned traditional cooking, which she believes is essential before one can think about creating \"vanguard\" cuisine. The experience also helped her lose some of her shyness. \"I let go of those labels I'd given myself and started focusing on what I love,\" she said. \"That's when I began to flourish.\" She went on to work for some of Spain's biggest names, including chef \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fespaisucre.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJordi Butrón\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Barcelona, chef \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mugaritz.com\u002Fen\u002Fandoni-luis-aduriz\u002Fco-1276143453\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAndoni Luis Aduriz\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in San Sebastián and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcellercanroca.com\u002Fen\u002Fthe-roca-brothers\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoca brothers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Girona.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter returning home and opening A Tafona, Freitas' relentless work schedule made it nearly impossible to travel, but she soaked up everything she could from the few trips she was able to take. Some of her dishes have roots in those experiences, and her keen sense of smell and vivid taste memory allow her to know exactly how various flavours will work together even before she's tested them. Also, ditching the menu's à la carte options freed her from worrying about what would sell, which allowed her to create more of the vegetable-focused dishes she loves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5tkqn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFreitas' menus at A Tafona are a deft blend of all her strengths as a chef. Although they vary daily, they always include at least a few of her \u003Cem\u003Ecromatísmos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which are built around a particular colour, like her yellow-orange composition of carrots, olives, cucumbers and slightly piquant guindilla peppers, pickled with a kombucha-based vinegar made from a tea of lemony herbs. The end result was notable for its bold vegetal flavours and a freshness that runs through much of her cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer food also features many subtle nods to local classics. \u003Cem\u003ELacón con grelos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is the kind of rustic fare that has warmed Galician farmers for centuries during the region's damp, piercing winters; typically, it is a hearty stew of dry cured ham and mustard greens with boiled potatoes, but Freitas reimagines it as a mini-snack of thinly shredded dried pork that she fries into a nest-like shape and serves atop a crisp sheet of fried kale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The richness that comes from that intersection of cultures is intense","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe day I visited, lunch began with several of these bite-sized creations, which are meant to be eaten with your hands. They included a fresh fig filled with a parfait of duck liver, herbs and Pedro Ximénez wine – the dessert sherry adding its signature sweet and syrupy notes – as well as Freitas' version of nigiri, a single slice of monkfish liver soaked overnight in milk (the lactose-free kind, so that her customers with that dietary intolerance can still enjoy the dish). It was served atop a small mound of vinegared rice and a picture-perfect perilla leaf, the fish's surface glossy from a mahogany slick of sweetened soy sauce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5t9m5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe menu also included a small empanadilla – the spiritual love child of the puffed-up \u003Cem\u003Epuri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E breads she sampled in India and Galicia's traditional large-format empanadas, pizza-sized pies stuffed with meat or fish mixed with a sofrito mixture that's heavy on the onions and peppers. It's unlikely that my Galician-émigré parents would have recognised their traditional empanada in Freitas' perfectly shaped globe filled with \u003Cem\u003Ebacalao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (dried and salted cod) and raisins, but the spirit of her dish felt very much in keeping with the character of Santiago, a city that has long been a crossroads for visitors from all over the world. \"The richness that comes from that intersection of cultures is intense,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond the inspiration that she derives from local culinary traditions, her cuisine is also an homage to region's first-rate ingredients, like the produce she buys from the paisanas or grows in her parents' garden, and the pristine fish and shellfish harvested from the icy-cold waters off Galicia's jagged, inlet-carved coastline. During our market visit, Freitas stopped at Mari Carmen's stall and purchased a whole bonito, which appeared in my lunch, the fish cooked slowly under a salamander, lacquered with an amber soy-sauce-cured egg yolk and accented with \u003Cem\u003Ekatsuobushi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (dried bonito flakes) – yielding an elegant balance of creaminess, salinity and smoke.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I like to work with contrasts and complexity, but then there's also that bonito,\" she said. \"I never would have offered it in the past, for fear it would seem too simple.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5t9m1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile her success has earned her the freedom and courage to experiment, that confidence was hard won, forged by struggles like a host of serious food sensitivities – including but not limited to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cdc.gov\u002Fparasites\u002Fanisakiasis\u002Findex.html#:~:text=Anisakiasis%20is%20a%20parasitic%20disease,humans%20eat%20raw%20or%20undercooked.\"\u003Eanisakiasis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as well as lactose, fructose and gluten intolerances – which often leave her physically depleted. Despite this, she considers herself lucky because her ailments are not the kind that regularly send people to hospital in anaphylactic shock. Somehow, she works around the situation, taking only miniscule bites of forbidden items while she is working the line or testing a new dish. The rest of her diet is extremely plain (mostly farm-raised chicken and fish whose provenance she can trace), and she never eats right before service, as a precaution.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother challenge has come from being a woman in an industry dominated by men. The problem has never been her ability, but rather the attitudes and behaviour of some of her male counterparts. She told me about attending a big culinary event in Galicia a few years ago where she was one of four women (along with more than 20 men) and was assigned to lead a discussion on gender differences. When it came time for her to address the group, she spoke honestly about the ways that women are segregated into pastry and rarely allowed to lead the main area of professional kitchens. As she spoke, a significant number of the men openly jeered and mocked her, even some she had previously admired.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"These guys always talk about how their cooking has been inspired by their mothers and grandmothers,\" she said, \"but then you ask them how many women work on their teams, and you just have to laugh.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5tbm0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the experience was crushing at the time, it ultimately motivated her to work even harder and lift other women up along with her. Now that she has hit her professional stride, she seems unstoppable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"These guys always talk about how their cooking has been inspired by their mothers and grandmothers, but then you ask them how many women work on their teams, and you just have to laugh.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough Freitas thinks the attention chefs receive these days is absurd, she uses her platform to advocate for hospitality workers in general, and female producers in particular, making it a point to speak at high-profile events like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gastrofeminas.com\u002Fen\"\u003EFéminAs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. At the first iteration of this now annual conference focused on women chefs, sommeliers, farmers, ranchers and others, held last autumn in the neighbouring region of Asturias, she encouraged participants to communicate with and promote each other across all branches of the culinary field. For example, when she is up on the stage for her culinary demos, she will often use dishware created by Galician ceramicists, and then share these women's stories with the audience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWherever she goes, she is a fierce and loyal supporter of Galicia's food producers and artisans, especially its farmers and fisherwomen, and she urges them to charge more for their premium goods. \"Sometimes, a paisana will ask me to pay two euros for a product, and I'll say, 'No, I'm giving you four, because it's worth it. Value yourself, and value your work.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5t9bl"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's a message she has carried halfway around the world, thanks to the support of an influential mentor named Mari Watanabe, a writer and food historian who Freitas refers to as her \"Japanese mother\". When Watanabe first visited A Tafona several years ago, the two women became fast friends. \"I admired her strength of will, to be running her own restaurant at that age, and as a single mother,\" said Watanabe. \"I also liked her minimalist style of cooking. It reminded me of Japan.\" She pointed out that the so-called Rias Coast of Japan's Iwate Prefecture was given that moniker due to its resemblance to Galicia's \u003Cem\u003Erías \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(inlets), like those of the latter's famed Rías Baixas wine region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2018, Watanabe brought Freitas to Japan to speak at a conference she'd organised on the island of Hokkaido. One of only a few foreigners and the only woman to present, the Galician chef regaled the audience with tales of her team, her producers and her beloved homeland, a memory that stands out for Watanabe. \"In Japan, we love our country, but that kind of direct connection to a specific region is not seen here very often, and I think it's beautiful. Lucía's passion for Galicia gives her a lot of strength, and it supports the work she's doing.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn that trip and subsequent visits, Freitas met food producers, artisans and culinary peers all over Japan and shared her own experiences as a woman in the industry. She also told them about a Spanish organisation called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fasociacionmeg.es\u002Fen\u002Fwhat-is-meg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMujeres en Gastronomía\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which ultimately inspired Watanabe and two of her friends to establish something similar in Japan, under the acronym WIG, or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwig-japan.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWomen in Gastronomy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5tb2r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Freitas has certainly influenced others, she has also gained a great deal from these interactions, but probably the most significant recent impact on her career has been the pandemic. Previously, she nearly lived (and sometimes slept) at her restaurant, but lockdown allowed her to spend uninterrupted days with Mauro, which radically altered her perspective. \"It was the first time I really felt like his mother instead of the aunt who rarely gets to see him. I couldn't even take him to school before, because I was always working by then.\" Now that she has glimpsed an existence that is about more than just work, she won't go back. \"To be happy in the kitchen, you have to be happy outside of it,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"To be happy in the kitchen, you have to be happy outside of it.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShe has seen many talented female chefs leave the profession when they decide to have children, but they are not the only ones negatively affected by industry expectations. \"These women want to be mothers, but beyond that, men today also want to be fathers,\" she said. \"The pandemic has been very positive in this regard, because we all want a life that's bigger than our jobs. Which means I have to charge more to hire enough people so that each person doesn't have to work crazy hours. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEarlier in her career, Freitas toiled in some hierarchical, almost militaristic kitchens, and she refuses to repeat the mistakes she witnessed. \"When you mature, you realise that people are not more loyal to you because you're a jerk,\" she said. \"My team is my family.\" Currently, all but one of those team members are women, and she ensures they don't get pigeonholed in the dessert realm, if they have other aspirations. (Even though Freitas and her original co-chef were equals, many people assumed he was the lead and she was the pastry chef, simply by virtue of their genders.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5t9lv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn a country where it's not unusual to start dinner at 23:00, she forbids customers from ordering her tasting menu after 21:30 so her staff can get home at a decent hour. \"It doesn't matter if you're the King of Spain or the Pope,\" she said, adding that diners are informed of the rule when they make their reservations. \"People understand schedules. The bank closes at 2pm [14:00], and if you get there at 2:10pm [14:10], the doors are going to be locked. Either we sell ourselves at any price, or we change the current reality.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs for her reality, Freitas continues to grow her mini empire. While designing the menu for New York's Tomiño gave her the chance to branch out to traditional Galician food, at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.luciafreitas.es\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELume\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which she opened in July 2020 and is located in the Mercado, she's created a \"gastronomic bar\" with a six- to eight-course tapas menu that's all about fusion. Her newest spot, Lume Next Door, which is expected to open by the end of the year, will focus on à la carte options of grilled dishes – such as pizzas made with local grains, including Galician staples like rye and corn, as well as local seawater and creamy Arzúa-Ulloa cow's-milk cheese in lieu of mozzarella. She also makes gourmet ice creams for home delivery, as well as other artisanal products that are sold directly to consumers, such as chocolates and her gorgeous \u003Cem\u003Eturrón\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (nougat), a Spanish Christmas treat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough she just turned 40 in March, Freitas shows no signs of slowing down. A few days after her birthday, the global Paris-based \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.intergastronom.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAcadémie Internationale de la Gastronomie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E named her \"Chef of the Future\". While an honour like this might exert pressure on some, she seems unperturbed by the gauntlet that's been thrown at her feet. \"Your food evolves with your life,\" she said, \"and I'm not afraid of anything now.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5tbhd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGalician Mussels in Citrus Escabeche with Red Lentil Soup \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E(serves 4)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Chef Lucía Freitas (adapted for BBC Travel)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients for the composed dish:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E20 mussels in citrus escabeche (see below for sub-recipe)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E300g of red lentil soup (see below for sub-recipe)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E120g young carrots\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E80g bok choy\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E40g grapefruit segments\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E40g blood orange segments\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ECoriander leaves, carrot fronds and mini-basil (for garnish)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EOrange peel, freshly zested (for garnish)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMussels in citrus escabeche\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E2 leeks\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 carrots\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 yellow onions\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 litre of olive oil (not extra virgin)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 head of garlic, split in half\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 lemon (peel and juice)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E10 black peppercorns\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 green cardamom pods\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 stalk of lemongrass, slightly crushed to release the flavour\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 makrut lime leaves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E15g chopped fresh ginger\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E15g chopped fresh galangal\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E150ml dry white wine\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E250ml apple cider vinegar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E25g pimentón (smoked paprika)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E500g cleaned mussels\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJulienne the leeks, carrots and onions. Confit the vegetables in the oil for 20 minutes over a low heat along with the garlic, lemon (peel and juice), pepper, cardamom, lemongrass, lime leaves, ginger and galangal. Once the vegetables are poached, pour in the wine and vinegar to stop the cooking process, and bring the whole mixture to a boil. After it boils, remove from heat and stir in the pimentón. Let the mixture rest overnight in the fridge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe next day, strain the mixture through cheesecloth, reserving the vegetables and escabeche liquid separately. Steam the mussels to open them and extract them from the shells. Add the mussels to the escabeche liquid and let them rest in the fridge for at least 24 hours. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERed lentil soup\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E300g red lentils\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 litre vegetable stock\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp turmeric powder\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 bay leaf\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tomato\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 yellow onion\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 garlic cloves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E35g fresh chopped ginger\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp cumin seed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp mustard seed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 dried guindilla pepper\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 bunch of fresh coriander, chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp pimentón (smoked paprika)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp garam masala\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyondu.us\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYondu sauce\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a naturally fermented, gluten- and lactose-free seasoning made from soybeans and vegetable stock; you can substitute with half the amount of soy sauce)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECook lentils in the stock, adding the turmeric and bay leaf. Finely dice the tomato, onion and garlic, and sauté in olive oil like a sofrito until lightly caramelised. Add the ginger, cumin, mustard, guindilla and coriander, and cook over low heat for a few minutes. Stir in the pimentón, garam masala and Yondu sauce, then add the lentils and broth. Allow the mixture to cook for 10 more minutes over low heat so that the spices release their flavours, taking care not to burn them. Purée everything in a blender, strain and reserve soup for the plating of final dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAssembly and plating of final composed dish:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPurée the reserved vegetables (the ones that were strained out of the escabeche) until creamy. Briefly cook the carrots and bok choy lightlyin a pan or steamer and dress them with some of the escabeche liquid. Drizzle ¼ of the vegetable purée into each person's dish, top with carrots, bok choy and mussels. Add a few slices of grapefruit and blood orange, as well as some coriander, carrot fronds and mini basil leaves. Add some freshly zested orange to each dish and then pour one-fourth of the red-lentil soup into each dish.\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela-26"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-05-12T10:49:30Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Lucía Freitas: The star chef of Santiago de Compostela","headlineShort":"A chef changing Spain's dining culture","image":["p0c5tbqh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"42.8807152","longitude":"-8.5421444","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6267dfc91f4b7b565656c4b5"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0c5tbqh"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191218-the-worlds-most-radical-chef","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Now that the Galician chef has glimpsed an existence that is about more than just work, she won't go back. \"To be happy in the kitchen, you have to be happy outside of it.\"","summaryShort":"She's been called the \"Chef of the Future\"","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Frestaurant"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-11T22:50:15.151322Z","entity":"article","guid":"b7881a01-db35-4906-a3ba-49f04c0fe9a6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-13T12:46:02.14887Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-luca-freitas-the-star-chef-of-santiago-de-compostela","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fspain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_spain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355536},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza","_id":"6267df871f4b7b263418c625","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"“Pizza fritta”, the lesser-known cousin of Neapolitan pizza, emerged as a result of poverty amid World War Two and was known as “the pizza of the people”.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe first time I met 82-year-old Fernanda Miano was on a sweltering afternoon in early August. She was sitting in a plastic chair and smoking a cigarette in an alleyway outside a \u003Cem\u003Ebasso\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (street-level home) that she operates as a humble food stall in the historic Naples neighbourhood of Quartieri Spagnoli. It’s called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tripadvisor.co.uk\u002FRestaurant_Review-g187785-d13002238-Reviews-Pizze_Fritte_da_Fernanda-Naples_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPizza Fritta da Fernanda\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the menu consists of just \u003Cem\u003Epizza fritta\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fried pizza) in two sizes: \u003Cem\u003Egrande\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (large) for €3 and \u003Cem\u003Epiccola\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (small) for €2.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMiano, who is lovingly referred to by locals and tourists as “Nonna Fernanda”, learned from her mother how to make pizza fritta on this very street, where the family business has been running for decades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI ordered a grande pizza fritta from her, unaware that it was going to be as big as my head. Miano put out her cigarette, gestured for me to sit in the chair she was vacating and got to work. She moved quickly, using her fingers to knead dough that was made of Tipo 00 extra-fine flour, yeast, water and a pinch of salt. She then added scoops of crushed tomatoes, pork scratchings, mozzarella and ricotta. Another piece of dough was added as a top layer. Finally, the concoction was flash fried in oil until the filling had melted and the outside was crisp and puffy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMiano wrapped the end result in paper and handed it to me. She watched as I bit into it and she asked, “\u003Cem\u003EBuono\u003C\u002Fem\u003E?” (“Good?”). I nodded. She flashed a proud and knowing look, something between a smile and a smirk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200415-how-to-make-pizza-like-a-neapolitan-master\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow to make pizza like a Neapolitan master\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200211-where-to-go-for-real-italian-food-in-new-york\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENew York's 'real' Little Italy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171120-georgias-addictive-cousin-to-pizza\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGeorgia's addictive cousin to pizza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen most people think of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200415-how-to-make-pizza-like-a-neapolitan-master\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENeapolitan pizza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, also known as Naples-style pizza, they think of thin-crust pizza baked in a wood-fired brick oven. The dish is so highly regarded that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-42264437\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E granted it World Heritage status\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E in 2017. Neapolitan pizza is also the inspiration behind New York-style pizza, which Italian immigrants introduced to the United States in the early 20th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPizza fritta is the lesser-known cousin of Neapolitan pizza. It emerged as a result of poverty during World War Two, when Naples suffered roughly 200 air raids by the Allies, according to Simone Cinotto, associate professor of modern history at the Università di Scienze Gastronomiche in Pollenzo, Italy, and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.press.uillinois.edu\u002Fbooks\u002Fcatalog\u002F64zwy3ne9780252037733.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Italian American Table: Food, Family, and Community in New York City\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Pizza fritta really looks like a wartime food,” Cinotto said. “There were no ingredients for making pizza and many of the ovens were actually destroyed by the bombings… People had to get creative and ingenious to find replacements for missing ingredients.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUnable to access – let alone afford – traditional pizza, locals began deep-frying dough and using lower-quality ingredients – such as anchovies and broccoli – purchased spoiled or out of season to make what became known as pizza fritta. The less desirable parts of vegetables, like artichoke stems, were also used. “Whatever you fry becomes palatable,” Cinotto said. He added that the technology and market for fried foods existed and was documented in Italy since well before World War Two, but that pizza fritta was likely a specific result that emerged from the crisis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDubbed “the pizza of the people”, street vendors – including Miano’s family – sold the item to struggling customers as “\u003Cem\u003Ea ogge a otto\u003C\u002Fem\u003E”, meaning they could eat it that day and pay for it eight days later. The phenomenon even made its way into Vittorio de Sica’s 1954 film L'Oro di Napoli (The Gold of Naples), which contains six chapters set in the city. In the chapter “Pizze a Credito” (Pizza on Credit), a young Sophia Loren portrayed a pizza fritta maker cheating on her husband. She shot to international stardom shortly after.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut not everyone is convinced that pizza fritta’s origins are as straightforward as portrayed in popular culture. “If you look at [Italian] recipe books, even from the 1500s, you do find fried food, fried dough,” said Fabio Parasecoli, professor of food studies in the Department of Nutrition and Food Studies at New York University. “I'm not totally convinced about the theory that it suddenly sprung up after World War Two because there was no food around and it was easier to fry than bake. [Yes], that’s all true. But I think [pizza fritta] was built on [cooking] traditions that were already there.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese traditions of frying food, however, dipped in popularity over time. Cinotto notes that people in Italy started to become more health-conscious in the 1980s and ‘90s. He also cites pizza fritta’s affiliation with the lower classes as a reason for it losing its allure during this time period.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Pizza fritta is the lesser-known cousin of Neapolitan pizza","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Cinotto, the urban, middle class in the south of the country, where pizza fritta was common, did not view fried food favourably again until the last decade. He says that’s when trendy Naples restaurants reintroduced it on their menus and photos of pizza fritta garnered attention on social media.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of those popular pizzerias is owned by 27-year-old \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.isabelladecham.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIsabella de Cham\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. She opened her eponymous, all-women-run restaurant two years ago in Naples’ Rione Sanità neighbourhood after working at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sorbillo.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPizzeria Gino Sorbillo \u003C\u002Fa\u003Eat and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Flamasardona\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Masardona\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, both hot spots hailed for their pizza fritta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“I have always liked pizza fritta. When I was little, I would always have pizza fritta on Sunday mornings,” she recalled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut De Cham says she noticed that when she first entered the food industry, many people viewed her favourite dish as “junk food” and avoided it. She decided that she wanted to elevate pizza fritta’s image from “old-school” ingredients – like Nonna Fernanda’s pork scratchings – and created a menu dedicated to elegant variations such as crispy octopus, seared escarole and Stilton cheese.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Our slogan is ‘Pizza fritta like you have never eaten it before’,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile it may be difficult to determine pizza fritta’s exact origins, 22-year-old Francesca Stanziola, a Naples local who manages the bed and breakfast \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museo19.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseo19\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, believes the food is an emblem of Neapolitan pride. She, like many of her friends, has parents and grandparents eager to pass on the stories about the city’s traditions and history – including pizza fritta. She says it’s especially important because her generation could be the last to experience the people and businesses that survived World War Two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStanziola, in fact, was the one who suggested I visit Miano’s no-frills stall during my stay in Naples.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Fernanda is a true Neapolitan woman. There aren’t many people like her left,” she told me. “If you visit Naples and want to understand and appreciate its history, you have to try pizza fritta like hers.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Pizza fritta really looks like a wartime food","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I returned a few weeks later to see Miano again, she was sitting again in the plastic chair outside her store, this time sans cigarette. She agreed to tell me more about herself, but only after I ordered three pizza fritta from her. “I’m very busy and can only talk to you when I’m working,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMiano was not surprised that I was curious about her. In 2018, British chef Jamie Oliver \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fjamieoliver\u002Fstatus\u002F1034108285048127491\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evisited her\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to learn how to make pizza fritta himself. She was featured on his TV show Jamie Cooks Italian, which prompted a surge in tourists visiting her shop. But Miano seemed more pleased about her status as a local legend. She beamed whenever a neighbour stopped to chat or someone waved from a motorbike as they whizzed by. I noticed that this happened very frequently.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I was already famous here before he [Oliver] came,” Miano declared, as if reading my mind. And again, she flashed me that proud and knowing look, something between a smile and a smirk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-11-17T21:00:43Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Italy's beloved 'fried pizza'","headlineShort":"Italy's beloved 'pizza of the people'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"“Pizza fritta”, the lesser-known cousin of Neapolitan pizza, emerged as a result of poverty amid World War Two and was known as “the pizza of the people”.","summaryShort":"Fried pizza is the lesser-known cousin of Neapolitan pizza","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:57:47.881678Z","entity":"article","guid":"db5c779d-147f-4b76-96e3-343021b31363","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:18:19.880386Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355537},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual","_id":"6267df741f4b7b1d7e46606f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A favourite accompaniment to barbecued meat, chimichurri stands as a national anthem for all those who were born in or migrated to the vast lands of Argentina.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMartina Ezcurra sprinkled coarse salt on the large flank steak in front of her, then massaged it in with her hands. With a smile, she told me that even if men claim to be the \u003Cem\u003Easador\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (South American barbecue master), it is Argentine women who prepare the best meat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENext to the seasoned steak on the marble kitchen table stood a bowl filled with the chimichurri she had prepared earlier that morning: a blend of finely chopped parsley, oregano, ground chilli and minced garlic mixed with vinegar and vegetable oil. The bright green sauce looked like Italian pesto but was something else entirely. And later that day, I would learn to spread it on the roasted meat like a priest anointing something with holy oil.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Ezcurra's courtyard at her \u003Cem\u003Econventillo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a type of shared home in Buenos Aires where 19th-Century Italian immigrants once lived – her family and friends sat and chatted while awaiting the feast that was to come. In the back of the open space, surrounded by lush green trees, Ezcurra's son Joaquin tended to the hot coals and meat, asking for a steady replenishment of Malbec: it takes hours to cook an asado and it's custom to never let the asador's glass go dry. When Joaquin brought the first cuts of steak to the table on a wooden chopping board, everyone reached for a serving. He assembled a plate for me, following something that resembled a ritual: first he grabbed a piece of warm bread, then he chose a slice of meat and finally he spread on a generous spoonful of chimichurri.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's also used as a go-to flavouring for just about any kind of meat dish in Argentina","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt first, the chimichurri tasted refreshing and grassy, but then it revealed a lingering spiciness and pungency from the garlic. It was my first time trying the green sauce and I was amazed by how harmoniously it blended with the flavours of the savoury and smoky beef. I complimented Joaquin and his mother, who in exchange said, with a smile, that I was now part of the family, as though I'd fulfilled a rite of passage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile chimichurri is a classic accompaniment to steak, it's also used as a go-to flavouring for just about any kind of meat dish in Argentina, from \u003Cem\u003Echoripan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (grilled chorizo) to meat empanadas. During my travels in the country, chimichurri was a constant presence. It hit my nose during a walk at the San Telmo Fair, an antique fair held in Buenos Aires on Sundays. It was in a jar on the counter of a choripan vendor at the entrance of the Bombonera, the Boca Juniors football stadium. It was on tasting tables of the Mendoza region's vineyards; at road-side restaurants throughout the desert highlands of Salta and Jujuy; and near an open fire cooking \u003Cem\u003Ecordero al palo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (slow-roasted lamb) amidst Patagonian winds. It was everywhere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere are various legends about the birth of chimichurri and its name, with the most famous claiming that it was 19th-Century Irish immigrant James (Jimmy) McCurry, who, longing for Worcestershire sauce – a popular condiment in the UK and Ireland that's made of vinegar, molasses, garlic, anchovies and other ingredients – decided to create another flavoursome condiment with local ingredients. Supposedly, the sauce took his name \"Jimmy McCurry\", which became \"chimichurri\" with Argentinian pronunciation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOthers believe the name \"chimichurri\" came about in the early 1800s during the failed British invasion of Rio de la Plata, the estuary that separates Argentina from Uruguay, when captive British soldiers asked for condiments by saying, \"give me the curry\", which Argentines translated into \"chimichurri\". Still another story alleges that the sauce arrived in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries with Basque migrants, who with their millenary \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewood-fired grilling culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E brought along \u003Cem\u003Etximitxurri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (pronounced \"cheemeechooree\"), a Basque-style herb sauce that typically includes herbs, olive oil, vinegar, garlic and Espelette pepper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd though many Argentines would proudly claim that it was their own grandmother who invented the sauce, some say that its roots go back to before Christopher Columbus came to the Americas in 1492. According to Daniel Balmaceda, an Argentinian historian and author, the word \"chimichurri\" comes from the Quechua, an Indigenous population who have lived in the Andean region of northern Argentina since well before the arrival of Europeans. \"It was a generic term used to describe strong sauces to accompany and conserve different kinds of meat,\" Balmaceda said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhether of Irish, English, Basque or Quechua origin, by the end of the 19th Century, chimichurri was used primarily to accompany, and often cover, the strong taste of freshly butchered meat cooked on the barbecue, which was brought to the country by Spanish immigrants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere barbecue culture began\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe gooey \"biscake\" eaten by millions\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160426-how-to-eat-steak-like-a-brazilian\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow to eat steak like a Brazilian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDonato De Santis, one of the hosts of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fchannel\u002FUCsf7o62bd1t0zy8csOPm1xg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMasterChef Celebrity Argentina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, said that today, as Argentines eat about \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.weforum.org\u002Fagenda\u002F2018\u002F08\u002Fthese-countries-eat-the-most-meat-03bdf469-f40a-41e3-ade7-fe4ddb2a709a\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E86kg of meat per capita a year\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (placing them third in the world ranking), chimichurri is ever-present in every Argentine family. \"It conserves an intense love,\" De Santis said. According to him, preparing chimichurri is a ritual, and families exchange it with pride; it is both an excuse for a conversation and a form of cultural exchange. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Chimichurri means friendship, and in Argentina, this has a meaning that does not exist in other places of the world,\" said Eduardo Massa Alcantara, an Argentine chef and a TV host. According to him, friends meet for a beer in England and coffee in Italy, but in Argentina, people invite each over for an asado. And they gather to barbecue despite the polarising political beliefs that are prevalent in the country due to its nine bankruptcies since becoming independent from Spain in 1816 and tensions between left-wing populist and right-wing dictatorial beliefs. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Argentinian gastronomy is like Argentina, it's polarising","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome say that opposition is just a part of Argentinian culture, including its food. \"Argentinian gastronomy is like Argentina, it's polarising,\" said Maria De Los Angeles Anglesio, a 33-year-old Argentinian gastronome. \"Dulce de leche (caramel) is extremely sweet, \u003Cem\u003Emate\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (tea) is very bitter, asado is full umami, and if you're not used to it, chimichurri is a strong sauce too.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, instead of creating division, chimichurri brings Argentines together. The sauce stands as a national anthem for all those who were born or migrated to the vast lands of Argentina. It represents a time when the country was the land of hope, which the English travel writer Bruce Chatwin described in his book In Patagonia as the land of fugitives, of those looking for a better life, of those following a dream.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"There are as many kinds of chimichurri as there are inhabitants in the Republic of Argentina,\" said Alcantara, who is also one of the judges of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=25C8FEFDNks\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChimichurri Cup\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a competition held every October at the San Isidro gastronomic fair \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lanacion.com.ar\u002Fsociedad\u002Fbocas-abiertas-el-festival-gastronomico-que-copo-san-isidro-nid2294577\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBocas Abiertas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Famous chefs, asado lovers and even children show their passion for asado by submitting their chimichurri for competition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlcantara said that some people add warm water to help the oil and vinegar emulsify, while others boil the oregano before mixing it with the other herbs. Some Argentines keep a pre-refrigerated liquid base on hand for any occurrence. A few others resort to extreme measures such as burying bottles of chimichurri underground to age and develop the sauce's flavour, adding an air of mysticism to the process. Many avoid using strong tasting oils like olive oil that eclipse the other ingredients' flavours, preferring to use lighter oils like sunflower.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlcantara, along with other judges, blind tastes hundreds of chimichurris before crowning a winner. For him, the best chimichurri has balanced flavours and complements the taste of the meat without overpowering it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn recent decades, the love for chimichurri has swelled beyond Argentina's borders. Argentinian restaurants have been established worldwide such as New York's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.buenosairesnyc.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBuenos Aires\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgauchorestaurants.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGaucho\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in London, and the sauce has been popularised in cookbooks, online articles and recipes, and how-to videos on YouTube.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet, most Argentines would argue that the best chimichurri can only be found in Argentina, particularly at an asado. From Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego to Iguazu Falls, locals gather to celebrate friendship and food on a Sunday afternoon, stoking the fire, uncorking bottles of Malbec and spreading on generous spoonfuls of the beloved condiment. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-06-01T21:48:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Chimichurri: The Argentinian sauce eaten as a ritual","headlineShort":"Did an Irishman invent chimichurri?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A favourite accompaniment to barbecued meat, chimichurri stands as a national anthem for all those who were born in or migrated to the vast lands of Argentina.","summaryShort":"It represents a time when the country was the land of hope","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:06:55.14625Z","entity":"article","guid":"5e588483-dc09-42fb-819a-9f9cd04d6773","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:28:19.754404Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355538},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping","_id":"627996691f4b7b2ef649159b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famy-booth"],"bodyIntro":"A century ago, Italian immigrants in Argentina's capital gave pizza an unusual new topping: a chickpea pancake known as \"fainá\".","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt a bustling counter inside \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fguerrin.com.ar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGüerrín\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a central Buenos Aires pizzeria, a young server in a red-and-white uniform dished out slices. Laid out before him was an abundance of thick, golden pizzas, their toppings a bright blend of green olives, red peppers and crispy melted cheese. The queue reached almost to the door, as he cut the portions with movements as lean and efficient as a juggler, the wedges disappearing in minutes. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEvery so often, he turned to a stack of what look like crumbly pieces of pizza base and flicked a portion onto a slice as he served it. The result looked like a pizza sandwich, the mozzarella melting slowly out from between the layers. This extra topping isn't actually from pizza at all but a thick, baked chickpea pancake called \u003Cem\u003Efainá\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMade from just chickpea flour, water, oil, salt and pepper, fainá is not complicated. At one of the restaurant's enormous ovens, I watched as a chef whisked the ingredients into a dribbly batter, poured it into a flat, round metal pan and carefully pushed it into the oven on a long, metal peel. Over the next five minutes or so, large bubbles pulsated on the surface. In the back corner, a blazing log fire heated the oven to almost 400C. The whole kitchen was sweltering and the aroma of baking suffused the air. When the fainá came out of the oven, it was golden-yellow with dark patches, like a harvest Moon. It would serve 20 to 30 people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's really classic for porteños, people from Buenos Aires","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt Güerrín, they go through 600-700 portions of fainá a day, according to Mauricio Nunes Aleixo, the restaurant's night shift manager. \"It's really classic for \u003Cem\u003Eporteños\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, people from Buenos Aires,\" he said. \"It's different for people from the other provinces; sometimes they don't even know what it is.\" (Fainá is also eaten with pizza in Uruguay, which is just across the River Plate from Buenos Aires and has close cultural ties to the city.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5h1jj"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith five ovens, seating for 800 and premises that stretch the depth of an entire city block, Güerrín is a palace to pizza. It's located on Avenida Corrientes, a theatre district that's the Argentine capital's answer to Broadway or the West End. The restaurant has long been frequented by people from all walks of life, from glamorous thespians to hippy backpackers. Previous customers even include former presidents Raúl Alfonsín and Mauricio Macri, according to Nunes Aleixo. But no matter who's eating it, \u003Cem\u003Eporteño \u003C\u002Fem\u003Epizza is decidedly humble in origin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENicknamed \u003Cem\u003Epizza a caballo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (horseback pizza), pizza topped with fainá likely developed in working-class Italian migrant \u003Cem\u003Ebarrios\u003C\u002Fem\u003E such as La Boca, probably in the early 20th Century according to Carina Perticone, a semiologist and anthropologist researching literary representations of local food at Argentina's Universidad Nacional de las Artes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe recipe for fainá arrived with Genovese migrants, who came from northern Italy to Buenos Aires in the 19th Century. In Italian, the chickpea pancake is known as \u003Cem\u003Efarinata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the word \u003Cem\u003Efarina\u003C\u002Fem\u003E means \"flour\"), and the name \"fainá\" stems from the Genovese dialect. By the turn of the century, fainá could be found in the stores and street stands of the La Boca, Mercado de Abasto and Paseo de Julio districts, according to Perticone. By 1926, a baker nicknamed \"Tuñín\" was selling fainá and \u003Cem\u003Efugazza\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, another pizza-like favourite made of dough and onions, to fans heading to games at the Boca Juniors football club in the dockside barrio of La Boca.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5h1wy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It was like a place to stop by, to eat standing up. But all the famous Boca football figures passed through there; it was very popular,\" Perticone said. In immigrant barrios with large Italian populations, fainá was \"the original Buenos Aires street food\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe'll probably never know for sure why porteños started eating fainá on top of their pizza. Perticone suggests it might have been a practical way for hurried workers to eat on the go. Chickpeas were a cheap source of protein for the working class who didn't always have access to meat, added Francesca Capelli, a sociolinguist at the Salvador University's School of Modern Languages research institute.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In Italy, \"it wouldn't even occur to anyone\" to eat fainá like that","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne thing is for sure: in Italy, \"it wouldn't even occur to anyone\" to eat fainá like that, Capelli said. Unorthodox? Perhaps. But the pair are a good fit: the subtle, creamy texture of the fainá softens the acidity of the tomato sauce and moderates the greasy tang of the cheese.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5h1ww"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt first, the polite society of Buenos Aires took a dim view of Italian immigrants and their food. \"There was a really strong anti-Italian sentiment, People thought they were mafiosos,\" Capelli said, pointing out that the notorious Galiffi gang was kidnapping and extorting in the Argentine city of Rosario in the 1920s and '30s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, porteños soon started to abandon their snobbery towards pizza and fainá, and pizzerias started to pop up all over the city. Pizza and fainá are often accompanied with sweet muscat wine, and the trio was immortalised in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=ojn0_8mbD3g\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea song by Buenos Aires blues band Memphis La Blusera\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which paints the food-and-drink pairing as a universal companion to the bustle of people coming and going from the theatres along Avenida Corrientes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Tuñín's \u003Cem\u003Efainería\u003C\u002Fem\u003E became so popular that politicians, artists, footballers, businessmen went, but workers and tango dancers went too. The classes mixed,\" Perticone said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5h1x4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pizzerialoscampeones.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELos Campeones\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a pizzeria five blocks from the Boca Juniors stadium, it's clear that the link between fainá, football and popular culture remains alive and well. The walls are a mosaic of photos of sporting greats. The night I was there, the team was playing a Copa Libertadores match, and the waitstaff's eyes were glued to the game.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A slice of pizza and fainá… is something that the average worker can treat themself to without having to spend a lot of money,\" said Matías Menéndez, a manager at Los Campeones. \"Football in this country encompasses a wide range of social classes, and when they go to a game, everyone goes to see the same thing, to enjoy a football match.\" The pizza goes hand in hand with the match, he added. \"We have clients who don't go to the game without stopping by for a slice.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA good fainá has to have \"a creaminess, but the base and the top [should be] crispy\", Menéndez said. On the counter behind him, a fresh fainá was slightly singed around the edges, as though someone had ironed it for too long.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe recommends heating the tray with a little oil before adding the batter to stop it from sticking and giving it a quick bang on the kitchen counter to make sure the mixture is even with no holes. \"It's like a good omelette, it looks very easy but it isn't,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c5h1r9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, creative variants of fainá are cropping up in cafes across the city. Spring onions are a popular and typically Argentine addition, according to Perticone, but some restaurants serve it with pizza toppings and even stuffings such as ham and peppers. The plethora of cheese-free offerings make it a great option for vegan and lactose-free diners. It's usually gluten-free, although some restaurants do add a little wheat flour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFainá may have started life in Buenos Aires as an Italian import, but today, it has become an indisputably porteño classic with serious staying power. And the city's slice wouldn't be the same without it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place's heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-05-10T10:30:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Buenos Aires' unusual pizza topping","headlineShort":"Buenos Aires' unusual pizza ritual","image":["p0c5h1wr"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-34.6375881","longitude":"-58.3704502","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6267dfc91f4b7b565656c4b5"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0c5h1wy"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201116-italys-beloved-fried-pizza","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210531-chimichurri-the-argentinian-sauce-eaten-as-a-ritual","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210105-the-gooey-biscake-eaten-by-millions"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A century ago, Italian immigrants in Argentina's capital gave pizza an unusual new topping: a chickpea pancake known as \"fainá\".","summaryShort":"\"The result looked like a pizza sandwich\"","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-09T22:31:51.8478Z","entity":"article","guid":"8fb4bee9-4dae-411a-8067-d35f815663ce","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-10T13:11:57.450866Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220509-fain-buenos-aires-unusual-pizza-topping","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbuenos-aires","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fargentina","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-america"],"destinationStat":"south-america_argentina_buenos-aires_south-america_argentina_south-america","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355537},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food","_id":"6267df991f4b7b354c136ba9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Food-loving Malaysians have been known to debate the best local food spots for hours. But one thing they all agree on is that the best char kway teow can be found in Penang.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp0934fy3.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I've been making \u003Cem\u003Echar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Ekway teow\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for more than 60 years; people come from all over the world to taste it. I'm so proud knowing they've travelled to my hometown of Penang for my food. Even though we don't speak the same language, when I see them finishing their plate, I know they are happy.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Tan Chooi Hong (Uncle Tan), street food cook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was 35C in the shade, and Tan Chooi Hong, hunched over a blazing hot wok, hadn’t broken a sweat. Flames from the charcoal sparked and danced up the side of the wok, crackling as he added the ingredients one by one, just as his father taught him almost 60 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EChar kway teow\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, Malaysia’s most famous street food, is a simple rice noodle dish made with soy sauce, eggs, cockles, bean sprouts, Chinese sausage and a couple of shrimp. It’s common throughout the country – devoured at roadside stalls or feasted on at hawker centres – but there is only one “king” of char kway teow, and he’s in Penang.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUncle Tan, as he’s known, is a sturdy 79-year-old with a shock of white hair and an all-knowing glimmer in his eye. He’s been cooking this single dish from a wok-cart attached to a bicycle and pushed into place on the side of Siam Road in central George Town for decades. “I don’t remember how old I was when I started. But char kway teow is all I know,” said Uncle Tan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUncle Tan’s unlikely fame began in 2012 when he was interviewed by a local who put the story on Facebook. His decades of cooking experience, combined with layered flavours of smoky-unctuous noodles perfectly balanced with the salty-sweet Chinese sausage, quickly got the younger generation of foodies salivating. Nothing is better than a simple noodle dish with an interesting backstory, and young Penangites ate it up. The article went viral and people began flying to the island just to taste his dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2015, celebrity chef Martin Yan, known for his \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyancancook.com\u002Fhome\u002F\"\u003EYan Can Cook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E TV show, visited the stall for his TV show Taste of Malaysia. If that fame didn’t cement Uncle Tan’s title as king, placing 14th (out of 50) at the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwsfcongress.com\u002Faward-2017-winners\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld Street Food Congress in 2017\u003C\u002Fa\u003E certainly did. Today, his roadside wok-cart is a fixture in the food scene and he’s widely revered as serving up the most delicious, flavoursome char kway teow in Malaysia, churning out hundreds of plates a day with people waiting in line for hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUncle Tan is unfazed by his fame and prefers to keep a low profile. Humble and shy, he can’t understand what all the fuss is about and doesn’t think his version is any better than anoyone else’s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“My dad didn’t go to school to learn any skills. It wasn’t an option. He had to work for his father, so he worked by his side cooking char kway teow every day,” his daughter, Tan Evelyn, told me. “And he’s never stopped.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191111-where-is-malaysias-national-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's contentious rice dish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170808-the-truth-about-japanese-tempura\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe truth about Japanese tempura\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201216-the-mysterious-origin-of-zanzibar-pizza\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe mysterious origin of Zanzibar pizza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe ingredients of char kway teow are so simple that it takes a lot of skill to get it right. The main ingredient is flat rice noodles. No self-respecting char kway teow stall would use dried noodles, so Uncle Tan gets bags of the fresh, chewy goodness delivered by scooter regularly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI watched as he skillfully added one ingredient at a time, just by feel and sight. He threw a large handful of slippery noodles in the blisteringly hot wok and used a wide metal spatula to spin them around in the garlic and lard waiting for them. After pushing the noodles up the side of the pan, he expertly cracked an egg into the middle, breaking it with the spatula to let the yolk ooze into the noodles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA few soy sauce dashes, a spoonful of chilli sauce and a little water created a silky sauce that the noodles absorbed. Then Uncle Tan tossed in a couple of shrimp and a few slices of sweet \u003Cem\u003Elap cheong\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or Chinese sausage. Finally, a smattering of cockles got a spin in the wok. He topped it all with a handful of crunchy bean sprouts, chives and small homemade croutons made of crispy pork fat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe eyed the steaming noodles for the perfect consistency and then scooped them onto a melamine plate and started all over again. The whole process was lightning fast – less than two minutes – and Uncle Tan made it look effortless.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile many stalls use gas, Uncle Tan cooks on charcoal, frying one order at a time for maximum flavour and \u003Cem\u003Ewok hei\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which translates to “breath of the wok”. Wok hei is the smoky depth of flavour that charcoal adds to the dish and is expertly created by cooking the right portion over the right temperature. It’s something that gas heat cannot achieve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome people say that charcoal is the secret to Uncle Tan’s success, but, “they like my father’s char kway teow better than others because he’s perfected it over 60 years,” said Evelyn. “Other stalls use charcoal and the same ingredients, but no-one has his skill. Not even my brother Kean Huat who learned from him.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOthers try to attribute Uncle’s success to a secret sauce. “I promise. There is no secret sauce; it’s his wok skill,” said Evelyn. “I also cannot fry as my brother or dad. My brother has been working for years learning from my dad, and his skills are still improving. It takes a lifetime. Just ask my dad.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If I give you the same ingredients, you cannot make the same taste as me,” agreed Uncle Tan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven though char kway teow has become synonymous with Penang street food, its origins lie in China. In the 19th Century, the Chinese diaspora brought over Teochew and Hokkien people from Guangdong and Fujian provinces on China’s south-eastern coast. During that same time, Penang grew under British rule and it became a bustling entrepot providing greater employment opportunites. The Hokkien people came to work in the rubber plantations and as traders and merchants, while the Teochew found jobs in the tin mines and as fisherman. With them came some of their kitchen staples like soy sauce, bean curd and noodles called \u003Cem\u003Ekway teow\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn Hokkien, the word char means “stir-fried”\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and kway teow means “rice cake strips”, referring to the noodles. What had begun in China’s south-eastern provinces as a simple noodle dish with pork, fish sauce and soy sauce was transformed into a seafood delight once it hit the island’s shores. Initially, it was sold at night by fisherman and cockle gatherers trying to make an extra buck. Instead of the traditional ingredients, they used what was plentiful to create a revised version of the dish. It was a poor man’s food and the other Chinese immigrants devoured it as something fast, cheap and tasty to sustain them for hours under the hot sun. The dish became a labourer’s staple.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When the waves of Teochew and Hokkien immigrants came from China, they came alone, leaving their wives and families behind. Since there was no-one to cook for them, they survived on cheap street food,” said Nazlina Hussin, a Penangite culinary specialist and author. “From wok to plate, char kway teow takes no time. These men could stop for lunch, eat and be back to work within a few minutes.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo this day, most of the Chinese in Penang are of Hokkien and Teochew descent. It’s the only place in Malaysia where Hokkien is commonly spoken, which is why char kway teow has remained so closely linked to Penang. And although you can find the dish outside of Penang, locals say it’s not as good unless a Hokkien or Teochew makes it. That’s why people fly here from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore and wait in line for hours, in the hot sun, to try Uncle Tan’s char kway teow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s that good.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPlus, he’s one of the oldest char kway teow legends in Malaysia. There is a reverence in that. “Most customers come here for my dad. People say he’s a char kway teow idol. So, if he’s not cooking, they keep on driving,” said Evelyn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2018, for the first time in nearly 60 years, Uncle Tan took a break. On doctor’s orders after cataract surgery, he closed his shop for six months, and his devotees, like those of any idol or guru, went berserk. The whole island almost had a breakdown, with stories in local media lamenting his sudden overnight retirement. “Today we’ve had to endure the greatest loss of mankind,” \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpenangfoodie.com\u002Fbid-goodbye-to-siam-road-char-koay-teow-video\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewrote culinary website Penang Foodie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “Siam Road Char Koay Teow is believed to be closed down for good.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUncle Tan’s son took over for a brief moment and locals weren’t kind to him; Penangites are loyal foodies and they wanted the master's char kway teow. After six months of ever-more grandiose gossip, “We had to find a place; we couldn’t let the people down,” declared Evelyn. Instead of going back to his original roadside spot, they decided to find a premises on the same street. Today Uncle Tan still cooks from a bike pushcart with a wok attached; it’s just parked in front of his shop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"He’s widely revered as serving up the most delicious, flavoursome char kway teow in Malaysia","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Now, my son and I can take turns cooking. When I get tired, I can sit down and watch Kean Huat try to perfect my dish,” he said with a wink. “It isn’t easy. But he’s a third-generation char kway teow cook, and even though he didn’t start as young as I did, he’ll be able to perfect his skills one day too.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUncle Tan’s char kway teow is not only Penang’s history on a plate; it’s his family’s history as well. Hopefully, Kean Huat will live up to his father’s reputation and teach future generations how to follow in the king’s footsteps.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut until then, “I have no plans to retire. As long as I can still stand and cook over the wok, I’ll be here on Jalan Siam,” laughed Uncle Tan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EHow to try it\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYou can find Uncle Tan’s shop at 82 Siam Road, George Town, about one block off the corner with Anson Road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeat the queues by heading there around 14:30, right at the end of Uncle Tan’s shift. He works from 12:00-15:00, before handing it over to his son who cooks until 18:30. Note: the shop is closed on Sunday and Monday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-13"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":true,"displayDate":"2021-01-19T21:49:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Malaysia’s humble ‘king of noodles’","headlineShort":"Malaysia’s humble ‘king of noodles’","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"5.4141","longitude":"100.3288","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Food-loving Malaysians have been known to debate the best local food spots for hours. But one thing they all agree on is that the best char kway teow can be found in Penang.","summaryShort":"He churns out hundreds of plates a day, and it’s the only thing he cooks","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:00:26.711547Z","entity":"article","guid":"7e900232-4e0f-4207-9aba-94ed3b8997be","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:21:23.37022Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355538},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes","_id":"6267df751f4b7b1069751383","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Serving up a rarely changing menu of quirky Canto-European concoctions, the cha chaan teng is at the heart of the city's singular cultural identity.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-china-60474342\"\u003Ea fifth wave\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the Covid-19 pandemic washing over Hong Kong, all restaurants in the city have been ordered to pull down their shutters by 18:00. Daytime business in the city's \u003Cem\u003Echa chaan tengs\u003C\u002Fem\u003E has mostly remained brisk, however. The quirky, no-nonsense cafes have long served up affordable staples to busy people needing to get in, chow down and get out in a hurry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe cha chaan teng – or \"tea restaurant\" – is the Hong Kong equivalent of the \"greasy spoon\" cafe, or perhaps the American diner. Frequented by everyone from tough construction workers to sharp-suited bankers to roughing-it celebs craving the cheap dishes they were brought up on, they offer a rarely changing menu of what has been called \"soy sauce Western food\": lowbrow, sometimes unusual but always comforting East-West hybrid fare that fuses the thriftier ends of the culinary traditions of two very different worlds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EModest but popular cha chaan teng dishes include fried eggs and spam in macaroni soup, sweet-pastry chicken pies, Hong Kong-style spaghetti Bolognese and baked pork chop rice (a not-so-secret ingredient often used in the latter two: ketchup), often washed down with strong black tea enriched with canned evaporated milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll are delivered superfast by cranky, harried staff in stark, egalitarian surroundings. Think Formica tables and foldout stools, bathroom-tiled walls and retina-searing strip lighting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Mido Cafe on Temple Street, Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon, Hong Kong","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo understand the origins of the cha chaan teng, one must look to when Hong Kong was under British colonial rule. In the years after World War Two and with the communist revolution in China, refugees flooded into the territory seeking respite from conflict and poverty. Between 1945 and 1951 alone, Hong Kong's population swelled from 600,000 to more than two million.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe menu preferences of Mayfair and Manchester had long been available in Britain's Far-East possessions, but the full-service European restaurants serving up such treats were prohibitively expensive for most Chinese. While life was tough for many in Hong Kong, there was, however, work with a burgeoning manufacturing industry – notably in textiles, toys and other plastic goods – and the opportunity for social mobility. Many profitable China businesses – and their cash – had also fled cities such as Shanghai to continue operating from the more stable British outpost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Western food became popular first with the wealthy Chinese and then eventually with the poor, who saw it as something exotic, although not necessarily delicious","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy the late 1950s, with incomes rising and tastes becoming more adventurous, Hong Kong's working-class diet became increasingly influenced by European customs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Western food became popular first with the wealthy Chinese and then eventually with the poor, who saw it as something exotic, although not necessarily delicious,\" said Susan Jung, previously food and drinks editor at Hong Kong's South China Morning Post newspaper, and who has covered the local dining scene for more than 25 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMilk was occasionally added to tea, Jung said, sometimes to be accompanied by cakes, sandwiches and other foreign confections. And so, the cha chaan teng was born, characterised by Canto-European concoctions that have variously been described as eccentric, weird, even trashy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Satay beef instant noodles in Hong Kong cha chaan teng","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\"The food they serve is certainly unique and much of it came about through British colonisation, when they brought ingredients, cooking methods – such as baking – and dishes that the local Chinese were unfamiliar with,\" said Jung.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESuch dishes common to pretty much every cha chaan teng today include satay beef macaroni, curry-sauce chicken wings with crinkle-cut chips, fish chowder and fluffy scrambled egg sandwiches – always using the cheapest white bread and often with the crusts neatly cut off, as with English afternoon tea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"British custard tarts changed to Chinese egg tarts,\" added Jung. Borscht, the vegetable soup initially introduced to China by Russians fleeing revolution for Shanghai in the early 20th Century, and then to Hong Kong with revolution in China, remains popular in cha chaan teng. \"But now the red tinge in the soup comes from tomato, not beetroot,\" Jung said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history\"\u003EThe icy side to Hong Kong history\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAre Japan's 7-Elevens the best in the world?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe berry that keeps Asia looking young\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Anthony Bourdain swooped into town to shoot an episode of CNN's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fexplorepartsunknown.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParts Unknown\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2018, the New Yorker and his crew dropped by China Cafe, a family-run cha chaan teng that opened in the densely populated neighbourhood of Mong Kong in 1964 (it closed in 2019).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBourdain went for the noodles with spam and fried eggs in soup, and the \u003Cem\u003Esai do si\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or \"western toast\". Preparation of this artery-clogging delight, Jung explained, can vary greatly with the cha chaan teng. \"Usually it's two slices of cheap white sandwich bread layered with peanut butter, then dipped in egg and fried,\" she said. \"It's then topped with butter, golden syrup and sometimes condensed milk.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A worker prepares \"pantyhose\" milk tea at the Lan Fong Yuen tea-diner","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBourdain also sampled a pineapple bun – a cheap cha chaan teng snack that, Jung revealed, actually contains no pineapple. \"It's an unfilled bun with a sugary, crumbly topping that is supposed to be scored in a pattern that resembles the markings of a pineapple, but many places don't bother with that anymore,\" she said. \"It's especially delicious when you have the pineapple bun split in half, with a thick slab of cool butter inside. It goes wonderfully with hot or cold milk tea, depending on the weather.\"\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E And when youthful Hong Kong democracy campaigner Joshua Wong was interviewed for the Financial Times' regular \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ft.com\u002Fcontent\u002F11b3cfba-f70a-11e9-a79c-bc9acae3b654\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELunch with the FT\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" slot, with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-china-49317695\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHong Kong's anti-government protests\u003C\u002Fa\u003E about to reach their dramatic peak in November 2019, it was no surprise that the PR-savvy activist pulled up a plastic stool at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.tripadvisor.com.hk\u002FRestaurant_Review-g294217-d17395600-Reviews-Tak_Yu_Cha_ChaanTeng-Hong_Kong.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETak Yu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a popular-with-the-people cafe hidden away in a down-and-dirty Wanchai backstreet. Wong coupled his fried rice with a cup of Hong Kong-style milk tea, which is a silky and aromatic cha chaan teng specialty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"As you can probably figure out from the price of a cup [usually about HK$20], the tea leaves aren't the best quality, so preparation is very important in making a good milk tea,\" said Jung, explaining that the Hong Kong drink is brewed strong and filtered several times – often through a long, stocking-like strainer – to make it smoother.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Smoothness is the most important part of good milk tea. It shouldn't be coarse or astringent,\" she added. \"It's served with evaporated milk, which also smooths out the tea and makes it richer than it would be with fresh milk.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDrinks are central to the cha chaan teng experience, said Jung. Other popular beverages include \u003Cem\u003Eyuenyeung\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an acquired-taste concoction made from two-parts milk tea and one-part black coffee. Then there's hot Coca-Cola with lemon and ginger; hot water with raw egg and sugar; and 7-Up with lemon slices marinated in salt (good for a sore throat, apparently). And \"red bean ice\", a signature cha chaan teng drink contrived from sweetened red beans, evaporated milk, vanilla ice cream and crushed ice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Three pineapple buns on a serving dish","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith the local Cantonese cuisine also native to nearby Macau and China's neighbouring Guangdong province, the cha chaan teng is arguably Hong Kong's only unique dining experience. Though there are now such cafes in the Chinatowns around the world, the reliable cha chaan teng is at the heart of the city's singular cultural identity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravellers to Hong Kong frequently make a beeline for the most iconic cha chaan teng, which is\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003EInstagram-favoured \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002F%E7%BE%8E%E9%83%BD%E9%A3%B1%E5%AE%A4-Mido-Cafe-674985912688558\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMido Cafe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Kowloon's Yau Ma Tei neighbourhood, with its unaffected, retro interior pretty much unchanged since the 1950s. Now, however, like so much of what makes Hong Kong special, the cha chaan teng are under threat, gradually disappearing as a result of climbing rents over the past decade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs early as 2007, in fact, Hong Kong lawmaker Choy So Yuk saw a need to preserve the city's cha chaan tengs, proposing to the local legislative council that the cafes be put forward for inclusion on Unesco's Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Her proposal came about after a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.scmp.com\u002Farticle\u002F619524\u002Ftea-cafes-un-heritage-menu\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHong Kong poll\u003C\u002Fa\u003E found that seven out of 10 Hong Kong people believed their favourite cafes did not enjoy the recognition they deserved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Even many mainland [Chinese] tourists do not know cha chaan teng,\" Choy said at the time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey will, however, have likely seen them many times before on screen. Very few Hong Kong movies and TV dramas are without at least a scene shot in a cha chaan teng, with Mido Cafe providing a nostalgic backdrop in outings ranging from Wong Kar-wai's seminal Days of Being Wild to the brilliantly named Revolving Doors of Vengeance. China Cafe, meanwhile, proved a moody location for Johnnie To-directed action flicks PTU, Election and Fulltime Killer, as well as for gooey romance Endless Love and zesty comedy Once Upon a Time in Triad Society.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A Hong Kong local style old restaurant \"cha chaan teng\"","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut in the end, the cha chaan teng was not added to Unesco's illustrious list, perhaps because of their humble, proletarian and decidedly unglamorous nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Why would the United Nations care about this place?\" shrugged office worker Tony, over a rushed breakfast of processed ham and fried egg noodle soup, at a bustling eatery on the edge of Hong Kong's high-rise financial district. \"It's just another cha chaan teng. Hong Kong has hundreds of them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-11T10:24:13Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Hong Kong's 'greasy spoon' cafes","headlineShort":"Asia's version of the 'greasy spoon'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"22.286394","longitude":"114.149139","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Serving up a rarely changing menu of quirky Canto-European concoctions, the cha chaan teng is at the heart of the city's singular cultural identity.","summaryShort":"It's perhaps the only uniquely Hong Kong dining experience","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-10T21:24:34.145598Z","entity":"article","guid":"43b4db53-f8a4-4cb0-8255-8795aab688f5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-10T21:31:16.625418Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355538},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people","_id":"6267dfb31f4b7b356500da25","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Veddas were traditionally forest dwellers, who foraged, hunted and lived in close-knit groups in caves in the dense jungles of Sri Lanka. But most people haven't heard of them.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"This is our cave,\" said the man. He was tall with curly, shoulder-length hair and his lower lip was caked red with the areca nut he was chewing. An orange sarong was tied around his waist and a small axe was slung over his left shoulder. He pointed at a dimly lit rock shelter guarded by swaying trees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is where the children lived,\" he said, gesturing to a dark corner, \"and here, the men and women. You see the top there,\" he continued, showing a sun-lit platform sheathed by scattered boulders. \"That's where our leader slept, and we burnt wild boars, deer and rabbits to eat.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGunabandilaaththo belongs to the Vedda community, the earliest known aboriginal people of Sri Lanka. For centuries, his people \u003Cspan\u003Ewere forest dwellers\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E who foraged, hunted and lived in close-knit groups in caves in the dense jungles of Sri Lanka, relocating from one cave to another when someone from the group died. After one's death, they laid the body on the cave floor and covered it with leaves while gathering by a large tree to pray for the deceased; and offered wild meat, honey and wild tubers to their ancestors and the deities of the trees, rivers and jungles. \"We prayed for their afterlife so that their souls will belong to the deities; they will look after us,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the Vedda live scattered in tiny settlements in the Hunnasgiriya hills in central Sri Lanka up to the coastal lowlands in the island's east. However, long before Indo-Aryans – who are now the dominant Sinhalese-Buddhist people – came to Sri Lanka from India around 543 BCE, the Vedda lived all around the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite being Sri Lanka's earliest inhabitants, many people know little to nothing about them. For many centuries, Veddas were stigmatised and oppressed by the Sinhalese rule, and limited only to tourist interest. Today Veddas are thought to account for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jstage.jst.go.jp\u002Farticle\u002Fase\u002F128\u002F3\u002F128_200428\u002F_html\u002F-char\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eless than 1%\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the national population.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Late Physician Richard Lionel Spittel with the Veddas of Rathugala","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs with many indigenous groups, there's little evidence to suggest their origins. Archaeologists \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Froar.media\u002Fenglish\u002Flife\u002Fhistory\u002Fthe-life-and-times-of-balangoda-man\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econnect their gene pool\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to a prehistoric human called Balangoda Man, who lived 48,000-3,800 years ago and was named after the historical sites in the town of Balangoda – where his skeleton was first discovered – 160km from Colombo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGunabandilaaththo belongs to the Danigala Maha Bandaralage lineage of Vedda, a Sinhalese title given to them by the kings of the Kandyan kingdom (1476-1818). Originally, they lived in eastern Sri Lanka, in the Danigala mountain and the surrounding forests. But the construction of Senanayaka Samudra – the biggest man-made lake in Sri Lanka – in 1949, displaced this Vedda community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210502-the-unsolved-mystery-of-sri-lankas-stargate\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe unsolved mystery of Sri Lanka's 'Stargate'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's forgotten indigenous people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA 'luxury resort' from 1,500 years ago\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We lost some of our original forest homes because of the reservoir,\" said Kiribandilaaththo, who also belongs to the Danigala Maha Bandaralage lineage. During that time, seven families from Danigala came to live in a cave in Rathugala village in eastern Sri Lanka, which Gunabandilaaththo had shown me earlier. \"My \u003Cem\u003Eammilaaththo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and \u003Cem\u003Eappilaaththo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (mother and father)... they were part of that group,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"[The government] had asked our ancestors whether they liked to eat rice,\" Gunabandilaaththo added, explaining that the government encouraged them to relocate to Sinhalese villages for rice farming. Most Veddas agreed; those who did not – including the seven Rathugala families – received no compensation from the government.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose that relocated had little choice but to assimilate into Sinhalese culture and intermarry with the Sinhalese. Because many Sinhalese people considered them backward and uncultured, most of them, Gunbandilaaththo said, changed their names to hide their Vedda heritage. Even their language evolved, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Froar.media\u002Fenglish\u002Flife\u002Fculture-identities\u002Fvedda-language-sri-lanka\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eadapting Sinhalese words to communicate with others\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Gunabandilaaththo shows their hunting skills to visitors at Wild Glamping Gal Oya.","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the seven families who lived in the Rathugala cave held onto their traditions for a little longer, living in the jungle and hunting and foraging for food, they gradually mingled with Sinhalese farmers and Muslim traders from nearby towns. When food was scarce in the jungle, Gunabandilaatho's parents cultivated grains like corn, finger millet, mung beans and black-eyed peas. \"We slowly started losing our way of life,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut now, things are slowly changing, with the Vedda community reclaiming their heritage along with renewed interest in these first people of Sri Lanka. \"The Sinhalese used to look down upon us,\" Gunabandilaaththo said, \"but things have changed now. People are more educated, and they are interested in knowing about us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe department of archaeology and the ministry of heritage built the Veddas Heritage Centre in Rathugala just before the pandemic, where Gunabandilaatho will be leading tours for visitors, starting in April.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EProud to share his culture and traditions, Gunabandilaattho took me into the centre's small mud cottages, which are next to the cave where their ancestors resided. One was decorated with black-and-white pictures captured by the physician Richard Lionel Spittel, who often visited the Vedda habitats in the early 1900s. Another was decked with pictures of caves, a map of their original homes and statues of Veddas. Visitors can also request to see traditional ritual dances or to listen to their prayers and music.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We want to pass our cultural elements to our younger generations,\" Kiribandilaaththo said, explaining that he's happy to have the centre. Although briefly halted by the pandemic, Kiribandilaaththo conducts indigenous classes for 22 Vedda children every weekend at the centre, teaching them about their way of life and their language and traditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Typical house of vedda people living in Sri Lanka","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When we were small, our parents took us to the jungle. They showed us the caves, where to drink water, and how to find our food so we would never go hungry. They showed us the streams that never dried up. So, when we go to the jungle now, we can tell if an elephant or a wild bear is near us; we smell them,\" Gunabandilaaththo said. \"We want to give the same knowledge to our small children.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We teach children to never pluck a flower or a leaf from a tree if you don't have any use for it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, most Vedda people are Buddhists, but their animist beliefs are still deeply etched in them. \"We teach children to never pluck a flower or a leaf from a tree if you don't have any use for it,\" Gunabandilaaththo said, \"and never cut trees near a river stream because it will dry up.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUmayangana Pujani Gunasekara, an indigenous food researcher and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dailynews.lk\u002F2018\u002F08\u002F30\u002Ftc\u002F161092\u002Findigenous-diet\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVedi Janayage Sampradayika Ahara Thakshnaya\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Traditional Food Technology of the Sri Lankan Vedda), explained that for a long time, Veddas have been viewed as a tourist interest in Sri Lanka. The community in Dambana, a village 65km from Rathugala and home to the Vedda of Uru Warige lineage, for example, is heavily commercialised. \"Most people complain that Veddas ask for money to even explain about their history and traditions,\" Gunasekara said. \"But you can't blame them. When \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fir.kdu.ac.lk\u002Fbitstream\u002Fhandle\u002F345\u002F5071\u002FFOL-112-118.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egovernment regulations like Forest Ordinance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E came into place, they couldn't go hunting in the jungles. They lost their environmentally conscious traditional lifestyle and their access to foodways. So, they needed a way to survive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECurrently, Veddas in Dambana have to haggle to sell their crafts to tourists, who often visit the village to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dailymirror.lk\u002Farticle\u002F-People-visit-me-only-for-a-selfie-and-I-don-t-like-it-Uru-varige-Wannila-Aththo-135553.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etake photos with the chieftain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"But, of course, authorities can have a tourism framework where it uplifts the community, both economically and socially, allowing them to preserve their heritage,\" Gunasekara said. Both Gunabandilaaththo and Kiribandilaaththo are also hopeful that tourism can bring a positive change to the community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Kiribandilaaththo at the Veddas Heritage Centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe newly opened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.themeresorts.com\u002Fwild-glamping-gal-oya.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWild Glamping Gal Oya\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where visitors can stay in luxury tents in the forests around Rathgula, is already doing that: 13 staffers, including the hotel's chef, are Vedda people from Rathugala, while the hotel's onsite organic farm employs several others. \"Some of these young people used to move away for jobs, but they are working here now,\" said Gunabandilaaththo, who also guides hotel guests on hiking tours and sometimes takes visitors to Danigala, their original home. \"People come from Colombo – and they are excited to know about our culture and hike our mountains with us.\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Vedda staff members, who are mostly in their 20s, conduct cooking sessions for guests, preparing dishes stemming from their culinary traditions like smoked meat, wood-fired cassava roots and finger millet roti. That's because while many young Veddas know little of their heritage and traditions, a love for their cuisine remains strong. Many still go foraging in the jungle for days at a time, sleep in the caves, and fish and hunt wild animals to cook over fire. They bring back wild meat, honey and wild tubers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I still cook our food for my children and grandchildren,\" said Dayawathi, whose mother is Vedda and father is Sinhalese. She cooks curry for breakfast made of corn, wing beans, spine gourd and black-eyed peas, very different to the creamy vegetable curries made with coconut milk found in most island homes. While most Sri Lankan dishes are spice-laden, Dayawathi said she doesn't add spices. \"Instead, we mash green chillies and make a paste and eat it with helapa, which is a soft, steamed traditional finger millet dough wrapped in leaves.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"For lunch, we sometimes add a piece of smoked meat to the same curry,\" Gunabandilaaththo added, explaining that they also preserve smoked wild meat in honey poured into a gourd. \"I mostly eat steamed jackfruit and wild meat, and I've never been to the doctor,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, as the second chieftain of the Rathugala Veddas, Gunabandilaaththo \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fceylontoday.lk\u002Fnews\u002Fvedda-community-diminishing-at-a-rapid-pace\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eunderstands that they need recognition and support\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Not only does Sri Lanka not have specific laws to protect its indigenous people, but government acts continue to prevent them from accessing their traditional hunting grounds – and a 2017 UN Human Rights review highlighted that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.upr-info.org\u002Fsites\u002Fdefault\u002Ffiles\u002Fgeneral-document\u002Fpdf\u002Frights_of_indigenous_people_factsheet_srilanka_2017.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVeddas are economically and politically marginalised\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A carved slab of granite at the Veddas Heritage Centre in Rathugala","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The government has always abandoned us. If they recognise us and our very existence, it would help us preserve our culture better,\" Gunabandilaaththo said, explaining that his community conducts a monthly meeting to talk about the need to preserve their traditions. Some young people feel strongly about their heritage, he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We were here before King Wijaya [the first Aryan king] came. We are the oldest living inhabitants in the country – and I want everyone to know that we exist here. I want everyone to know that we have our language, and we want to take it forward.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Four-unique-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EOur Unique World\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that celebrates what makes us different and distinctive by exploring offbeat subcultures and obscure communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-28T10:18:59Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Sri Lanka's last indigenous people","headlineShort":"Sri Lanka's last indigenous people","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"6.927079","longitude":"79.861244","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Veddas were traditionally forest dwellers, who foraged, hunted and lived in close-knit groups in caves in the dense jungles of Sri Lanka. But most people haven't heard of them.","summaryShort":"They're Sri Lanka's earliest inhabitants – but most people haven't heard of them","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-27T21:19:56.906089Z","entity":"article","guid":"7b31f66e-3b8e-4244-84ec-4d8cef79525d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-29T20:10:37.157945Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355539},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka","_id":"626efae21f4b7b042c1aa022","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdemi-perera"],"bodyIntro":"These prawn-topped lentil fritters are beloved throughout Sri Lanka, managing to bring together locals across ethnicities, religion and class.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the train pulled into Peradeniya Junction station in central Sri Lanka, the man sitting opposite me leapt out of his seat and leaned out of the window, placing his thumb and forefinger in his mouth and whistling loudly. A \u003Cem\u003Evade\u003C\u002Fem\u003E seller soon appeared outside, removed a basket from the top of his head and handed it to the passenger. The man quickly pulled out a fragrant fritter along with a small bag of fiery sambol, leaving money behind, and then passed the basket to other hungry passengers, who did the same before returning the basket back to the seller through the window.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the train chugged away, everyone settled back in to their seats and contentedly crunched on what I'd later learn were \u003Cem\u003Eisso vade\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: lentil patties topped with fresh prawns and deep-fried to create one of the most delicious street foods you could ever find on an island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIsso (prawn) vade (pattie) are beloved throughout Sri Lanka, and their popularity can perhaps be attributed to their deeply familiar and simple ingredients: lentils and prawns, along with onions and curry leaves. Topped with a spicy sambol – made of chopped onions, tomatoes, green chillies and lime juice – plus chilli sauce for extra punch, each fritter has the perfect balance of crispy texture, zesty aroma and spicy flavour. And at Rs 50 to 70 (12p to 18p) each, they are an inexpensive, tasty treat for the masses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe most famous isso vade are sold from carts along Galle Face, a seafront promenade in Colombo. Each evening, when the gentle breeze, which has travelled for miles over the Indian Ocean, finally encounters land and cools the city, thousands gather here to spend time with family and friends. They walk up and down the promenade, sizing up each isso vade seller to decide which one has the best offering – usually the one with the largest crowd.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c3xzp5"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERashintha Rodrigo, co-owner of UK's Sri Lankan street food restaurant chain \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thecoconut-tree.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Coconut Tree\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, reminisces about eating isso vade on Galle Face. \"I'd go to the kite festivals on Galle Face with friends, and we always ate isso vade together. No matter how much you ate them, they never lost their novelty. I think that's because no one makes isso vade at home. They are in every sense, a street food; you only buy them outside.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough isso vade is now sold at every beach, seafront, train station or public space where people might gather, the much-loved street food has humble beginnings that tell a larger story about Sri Lanka's history and culinary culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Chef Publis Silva of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mountlaviniahotel.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMount Lavinia Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, lentil vade (sans prawns) were introduced to Sri Lanka from southern India. This, he says, likely happened during the time Sri Lanka was under British rule, between 1796 and 1948, and South Indian labourers were brought over to work on tea plantations. These workers settled in the mountainous Central Highlands and established small settlements that would later be identified as the Hill Country Tamil community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESri Lankan food blogger \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fchannel\u002FUCVz1bXiY1pz6Fz_Osm0YYBA\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cspan\u003EAnoma Wijetunga\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E agrees. Vade, she explained, is traditionally made of ground masoor dal (red lentils), which doesn't grow in Sri Lanka but in India; therefore, this is a food which most certainly crossed the ocean to arrive in Sri Lanka.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c3xznn"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Workers who arrived from South India only ever used dal when making vade,\" Wijetunga said. \"They never use prawns. And that is how this community still makes them. As for how they spread to the rest of the island, I think it might have been when the men folk began selling them on the trains. Of course, that too is something that came over from India and still happens there to this day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJesmin Arumugam, who grew up in the Hill Country and is central team manager at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftealeaftrust.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Tea Leaf Trust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an educational organisation for young people in Sri Lankan tea estates, remembers her mother making vade at home during every Hindu festival over the years. \"The times that she made isso vade, we'd always eat it with a green chilli chutney and a cup of very sweet milk tea,\" she reminisced fondly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Silva, however, what makes isso vade unique to Sri Lanka is the addition of green chillies and curry leaves (\u003Cem\u003Ekarapincha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) into the ground lentil mix. Although karapincha grows in India, Sri Lankan cookery incorporates the leaves into almost every savoury dish, creating a distinctive, zesty aroma. The addition of freshwater prawns to the vade also made sense. Although they are less common than sea water prawns, they are thicker and withstand deep frying much better. A prawn topping also made the vade more visually appealing than a plain lentil patty. The use of chillies, said Silva, is mostly for colour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Sri Lankans have always adapted every foreign food that was ever introduced to the island","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Sri Lankans have always adapted every foreign food that was ever introduced to the island. We like to stamp our own identity on them,\" he said. \"And we are a nation that eats with our hands, so the gritty texture of isso vade [from the lentils] is very pleasing to Sri Lankans. We also have a culture of sitting outside for early evening chats with friends and neighbours, and vade gave us something to chew on as we did so.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c3xzm5"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, Sri Lanka is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-61028138\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ein the midst of an economic crisis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. With food prices soaring and sellers unable to pass on the costs to customers who will not pay more than a few rupees for street food, many isso vade sellers have seen their profits decrease. While most will turn to alternative means of income, some vow to remain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMani, a vade seller on Galle Face, has watched the transformation of Colombo from small city to restless capital from behind his street food cart since 1965. \"I was just 13 years old when I started making isso vade at home and selling them to support my family. Now, once expenses are considered, we make only a small profit each month. But I would never consider another trade because if I'm not on Galle Face, my customers will not eat anywhere else. This is something to be proud of,\" he told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI myself have beloved memories of biting through the crispy exterior, the soft, gritty centre tasting of well-seasoned lentils with the delectable flavour of chopped onions, curry leaves and savoury prawns fried in their shells. It's incredible to think that vade, in its original form, crossed an ocean with an immigrant community to arrive on this tiny island far from home. No one could have known that this spicy snack would go on to unite Sri Lankans across ethnicities, religion and class as they sit with friends to watch the sun go down.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf this tasty snack can't survive the enomic crisis, it is not merely a street food and livelihoods that are threatened, but two centuries of history will be lost alongside it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c3xzld"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-05-02T10:25:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Isso vade: The spicy snack that unites Sri Lanka","headlineShort":"The fritters that are sacrilege to shun","image":["p0c3xzpc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"6.927079","longitude":"79.861244","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6267dfc91f4b7b565656c4b5"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0c3xzm5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220327-sri-lankas-last-indigenous-people"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"These prawn-topped lentil fritters are beloved throughout Sri Lanka, managing to bring together locals across ethnicities, religion and class.","summaryShort":"\"One of the most delicious street foods you could ever find on an island\"","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-01T21:25:36.849393Z","entity":"article","guid":"4016a594-f418-432c-9e0f-cffae590dbdc","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-03T13:00:20.602684Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsri-lanka","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_sri-lanka_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355538},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims","_id":"6267dfc71f4b7b357d59cdad","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Maamoul is made at the end of both Lent and Ramadan, leading up to Easter and Eid al Fitr. But this year, the biscuit is extra sweet as both religions enjoy it at the same time.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis spring, along the ancient streets of the holy cities of Jerusalem and Bethlehem, a sweet smell wafts through the air. Inside, people's homes are hives of activity as extended family members and neighbours come together to make a biscuit-like treat that's very special to both Muslims and Christians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You can't have Easter without \u003Cem\u003Emaamoul\u003C\u002Fem\u003E because it brings the happiness,\" said Rawan Ghattas, a Christian from Bethlehem, who works with famed local chef \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fadikattan.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFadi Kattan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike Ghattas, Rawan Bazbazat, a Muslim art teacher and jewellery maker from Jerusalem, has been baking the sweet since she was a child with her mother. \"On Eid al Fitr, we always have to make maamoul. We can't celebrate this holiday without it,\" Bazbazat said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMaamoul is made from a dough of semolina and ghee (though butter can be used as a substitute) and flavoured with \u003Cem\u003Emahlab\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (crushed cherry seeds, which are found inside the pits) and mastic (also known as Arabic Gum), which is the resin from the acacia tree. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the delicate shortcrust-style sweet melts in your mouth, its design adds even more decadence. Before baking, the dough is either stuffed with pistachios drizzled with rosewater, walnuts mixed with sugar and cinnamon, or dates that have been ground to a paste with a little oil or butter. As Anissa Helou, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcookswithoutborders.com\u002Fnew-story\u002F2020\u002F4\u002F27\u002Fanissa-helous-feast-food-of-the-islamic-world-delivers-delicious-inspiration-during-ramadan-and-beyond\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFeast Food of the Islamic World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E described it to me, \"The date maamoul is like having a cream-filled biscuit, but less fluffy.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach of the three flavours is then placed into its own specific wooden mould called a \u003Cem\u003Eqalab\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or formed by hand using a spiked tong called a \u003Cem\u003Emalqat.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E The date maamoul traditionally has a circular shape with a flat top; the pistachio version is more like a pointy ellipse; while the walnut-flavoured biscuit is a smaller circle with a domed top.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEach year, Christian and Muslim families across the Palestinian territories and the greater Middle East make maamoul, as well as its simpler cousin \u003Cem\u003Eka'ak\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a flat, round biscuit made from the same dough – in the days leading up to Easter and Eid al Fitr. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Christian holiday of Easter, observed this year on 17 April, follows Lent – an observance recognising the 40 days Jesus spent in the desert fasting – when believers traditionally abstain from animal products and alcohol for the same number of days. Eid al Fitr, meaning \"the feast of breaking the fast\", which starts on 2 May this year, is an Islamic celebration signifying the end of Ramadan, a month of fasting from dawn to sunset.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You go to the Old City [of Jerusalem] and you find both the Christians and Muslims fasting – it's special","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"This year, both Ramadan and Lent are together which is nice; you go to the Old City [of Jerusalem] and you find both the Christians and Muslims fasting – it's special,\" said Bazbazat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith extended family all together in one house, the jobs for making the maamoul are divided between groups. Some make the dough (which is left for one day in the refrigerator before being formed), some make the designs, and some are experts at knowing the right time to pull the sweet out of the oven.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor many who celebrate Easter or Eid al Fitr, maamoul creates beautiful memories.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We are three families plus all the neighbours; each day, we make the maamoul in one of the houses,\" Ghattas said, expressing what she views as a time of happiness and communal celebration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Bazbazat's family home, she and her five sisters, aunt, cousin, mother and grandmother make maamoul in the lead up to Eid al Fitr. \"Sometimes you feel very hungry when you're making it – you want to taste everything – but no one can touch it until the first day of Eid, then you can eat anything you want,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGhattas remembers trying to shape the dough into flowers when she was young, inspired by her mum who makes perfect decorations. At midnight, marking the end of 40 days of fasting, she and her family raise coloured hard-boiled eggs and knock them together (with the goal of being the last person left with an unbroken egg), and then rejoice in eating them as well as the long-awaited maamoul.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuslim families generally spend the first day of Eid together, and as is custom, send plates of ka'ak and maamoul dusted with powdered sugar to their neighbours – including Christians, who also send the biscuits to their neighbours at Easter. The next day, they welcome guests into their homes and offer coffee along with the delicious sweet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Christians and Muslims in Jerusalem have a lot to share. They live in the same houses, they're in the same city. We are like one,\" Bazbazat said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Palestinian territories, some of the main ingredients of maamoul, namely dates and walnuts, are grown locally. The dates, the best type being Mejdool, come from Jericho and the farms in the Jordan Valley, in the east of the West Bank. While most people have walnut trees In their gardens, they also grow abundantly on the region's hilltops – from Al-Khalil (also known as Hebron) in the south to Jenin in the north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFadi Kattan, an internationally known chef and founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hoshalsyrian.com\u002Ffawda-cafe-restaurant\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFawda Restaurant & Café\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Bethlehem – which showcases traditional recipes and local ingredients with a modern twist – links the smell of maamoul to the memory of his grandmother making it when he was young.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Every attempt I made to try and decorate ka'ak and maamoul would ruin whatever she and her neighbours were doing, so I was nicely told to sit away and enjoy the smell,\" Kattan remembered, adding he was allowed to crush the walnuts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe says the smell, which occurs as the ghee cooks with the mastic and mahlab, is \"like something being caramelised, but there's nothing being caramelised\". There's really no replacement for mastic's flavour in baking, and as Kattan said, it's \"an uncompromising one\". \"You can use orange blossom or rose petal water, but it's not the same thing. Mastic has a sweet, earthy flavour – I cannot describe it,\" he said. \"If you played with pine trees when you were younger, that little sap that would seep out when it's cut, that's what it tastes like.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, Helou, who grew up in Lebanon, flavours her dough with orange blossom and rose waters (instead of mastic), and only puts mahlab in ka'ak, showing how the recipes can vary by baker and regions. \"[Mahlab] has a very strong taste. If you use it in the dough for maamoul, it interferes with the flavour of the cinnamon, fragrant waters and the walnut stuffing,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=01OFDuB1hDs\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECharles Perry\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, food writer and expert on medieval Arabic cuisine, \"maamoul is descended from a Persian stuffed cookie called \u003Cem\u003Ekulachag\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which appears in medieval Arabic cookbooks as \u003Cem\u003Ekulayja\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\" They were made from a dough with added butter or another fat like lard then rolled out to be moulded into elaborate designs of fish, birds, gazelles and geometrical patterns.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs culinary influences spread due to trade at the time, it's possible that maamoul has other relatives or ancestors. For example, when Egypt was ruled by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FMamluk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMamluks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an army of slave soldiers, from 1250-1517, a book titled \u003Cem\u003EZahr al-hadiqa fi ' l-at'ima al-aniqa'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (flowers in the garden of elegant foods) – written by Ibn Mubarak Shah, which was later translated into English by Professor Daniel Newman and published as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsaqibooks.com\u002Fbooks\u002Fsaqi\u002Fthe-sultans-feast\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Sultan's Feast\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2020 – details a recipe of a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Featlikeasultan.com\u002Fmedieval-egyptian-date-filled-biscuit-كعك-بالعجوة-kak-bi-l-ajwa\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emedieval Egyptian date-filled biscuit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E flavoured with aromatics like rose water, saffron and spices.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to historian Charles al Hayek, who runs a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fchannel\u002FUCbMXXx8BWLCS-3cfi9V9tpA\u002Fvideos\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYouTube channel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fheritage_and_roots\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram account\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dedicated to Middle Eastern culture, the tradition of handing out sweets for Eid al Fitr began during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FFatimid-dynasty\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFatimid Caliphate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the 10th to 12th Centuries, when the Caliph, or state, would gift them to everyone including servants following Eid morning prayers. As Sawsan (no surname) from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchefindisguise.com\u002F2018\u002F06\u002F10\u002Fthe-mystery-of-the-moulds-and-an-eid-recipe-round-up\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChef in Disguise website\u003C\u002Fa\u003E wrote, the sweets were decorated with phrases like \u003Cem\u003Ekol o oshkor\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (eat and be thankful) and \u003Cem\u003Ebel shukr tadoom al neam\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (with gratitude blessings are preserved). However, when the Ottoman Empire ended in 1922 and there was no longer an Islamic caliph, the tradition shifted from being a royal custom to one among private households\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMany, including Kattan, say that the patterns on the different maamoul moulds – such as the date mould's burning sun, or star, depending on your interpretation – were originally affiliated with ancient religions that worshipped nature. However, in Christian tradition, the date-stuffed maamoul (which has a circular shape) came to represent the crown of thorns placed on Jesus' head, while the pistachio maamoul is said to resemble the temple where Jesus was laid to rest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere isn't any particular symbolism in Islam relating to the design but the shape of the maamoul is still very special to those like Bazbazat. \"When I finish one of the pieces of maamoul and I look at it, I think 'wow, I'm an artist',\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile many families make maamoul at home, the biscuit is also available in most Arabic sweet shops during Easter or Eid al Fitr, often sold by the kilo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Palestinian city of Ramallah, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Feiffel_sweets_palestine\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEiffel Sweets\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is one of the oldest sweet shops making maamoul and is highly recommend by many residents. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Finstagram.com\u002Fakersweets1946?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAker Sweets\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another well-known shop in town, has multiple locations. In Jerusalem, the oldest shop, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCXZJSzfFYn5\u002F?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EZalatimo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, was established in 1860 and now has shops in Jordan (and also delivers to the United States via Amazon). Those living outside the region, however, can head to their local Middle Eastern bakery or try making the holiday biscuits themselves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, many professional bakers such as Ahmad Shaqier from Eiffel Sweets believes that homemade maamoul has an intangible quality unmatched by those made at the shops. \"It's a tradition found within the Palestinian families,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a kid, Shaqier used to carry the trays of maamoul made by his mum on top of his head to the nearby \u003Cem\u003EFurn al Arabi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a traditional bakery that uses wood ovens, for them to be baked. \"I always ate a couple of fresh ones before I took it all home. The memories related to maamoul are imprinted in a person's mind.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMaamoul recipe \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E(yields 20 walnut and 20 date biscuits)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Fadi Kattan of Fawda Restaurant & Café (adapted for BBC Travel)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETime required: overnight plus three hours of making\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the dough:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1.5 cups coarse semolina\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1.5 cups fine semolina\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E¼ tbsp ground Arabic gum (mastic)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E½ ground mahlab (cherry seeds)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 cup melted ghee \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1½ tsp yeast\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E½ tsp sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E½ cup warm water\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the walnut stuffing:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3oz chopped walnuts\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E¼ tsp ground cinnamon\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the date stuffing:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4oz date paste\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp olive oil\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFor the dough:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EMix the sugar, mahlab (cherry seeds), mastic (Arabic gum) and semolinas in a large bowl. Add the melted ghee and mix well to have the ghee absorbed by the semolina.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ELeave overnight, covered to infuse.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EThe next day, mix the warm water, yeast and sugar in a small bowl. After 15 minutes, add the yeast mixture to the semolina mix and knead well.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ECover and leave to rest for an hour.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESeparate the dough into roughly two halves, one for the date stuffing and one for the walnut stuffing.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFor the date filling\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E: \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EMix the date paste and olive oil, and then form into 20 small identical balls.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESeparate the dough into 20 identical-sized balls.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ETake a ball of dough in your palm and flatten it into a circle, and then place the date ball in the middle and fold the dough around it.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EUse the mould to create a design or spiked tongs to decorate the top of the cookie in symmetrical shapes.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESpace evenly on an oven tray lined with baking paper.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFor the walnut filling\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EAdd the sugar and cinnamon to chopped walnuts, and reserve in a bowl.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESeparate the dough into 20 identical-sized balls.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ETake a ball of the dough in your hand and cup around it while using your finger from the other hand to hollow its centre. With a spoon, fill that cavity with the walnut mixture and then seal the bottom with the dough. You will end up with a dome on one side and a flat surface on the other side.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EPlace into the wooden mould or use the spiked tongs to decorate the side of the dome and then arrange it on an over tray lined with baking paper.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBaking and serving:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ELeave [both oven trays] to rest for 45 minutes while you preheat oven to 430°F (about 220°C).\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EBake for 12 minutes or until the top colour is slightly golden and the bottom is golden.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ELeave to cool before conserving in an airtight container.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EDust with powdered sugar to garnish.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-14T18:51:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Maamoul: A sweet celebration for Christians and Muslims","headlineShort":"The Easter treat uniting two religions","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"31.9472859","longitude":"34.6667345","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Maamoul is made at the end of both Lent and Ramadan, leading up to Easter and Eid al Fitr. But this year, the biscuit is extra sweet as both religions enjoy it at the same time.","summaryShort":"This year, both religions get to enjoy making it at the same time","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-13T20:22:42.276818Z","entity":"article","guid":"12d04cb8-12c1-4904-be84-d52ce04f0d28","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-15T12:40:11.051761Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355539},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","_id":"6267df881f4b7b2c18455137","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Menton was once the top lemon growing region in all of Europe but had seen a steep decline over the centuries. Recently, however, producers are again seeing the fruit's potential.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you want to know just how attached the people of the coastal town of Menton are to their beloved lemon, look no further than the legend that credits its arrival on the French Riviera to Eve. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExpelled from the garden of Eden, the story goes, Eve plucked a lemon to take with her on the journey. Adam, fearing eternal condemnation, begged her to throw it away, which she obliged to do only in a spot of her choosing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd thus, she found Menton, situated on the gleaming Bay of Garavan where the Alps rescind from the water just enough to create slopes with an east-west alignment – the perfect conditions for cultivating lemons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the legend itself is impossible to authenticate, the symbolism of the paradisiacal lemon is embedded in the folklore of this seaside town of about 30,000 inhabitants, where the bus line is called \"Zeste\" and a lemon motif seems the logical choice for many local businesses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe town swells to nearly double its size during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fete-du-citron.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFête du Citron\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an annual festival held in February celebrating the history and culture of citrus growing in the region, most notably of the Menton lemon, an officially recognised species that differs from Corsican, Spanish or Italian varieties in terms of its mild flavour and large, round shape with bumpy skin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe allure of the festival lies in its floats and sculptures, each with more than three tonnes of lemons and oranges rubber-banded to a wire framework shaped to match the year's theme. The Fête du Citron stands apart from other Carnival events in France in that municipal workers who spend most of the year maintaining city buildings are also the ones who prepare the floats and sculptures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETitled Operas and Dances, the 2022 edition marked a triumphant return for the festival after it was cancelled midway through in 2020 due to the coronavirus pandemic. The Sunday parade was a jubilee of blaring marching bands, vibrant performers and six floats covered in lemons and oranges, some as tall as 10m, sculpted to represent the Samba, Can-can, Haka, Matachines, Salsa and Kathakali dance styles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe French take on a trendy 'superfood'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe cake made with a 280-year-old water mill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs French cuisine forever changed?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom the floats, performers in costume worked alongside smiling city employees in neon-green safety vests to shower a seemingly infinite amount of confetti on the 15,000 spectators, whose outstretched arms made it clear they couldn't get enough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the party raged on in the valley, the terraced hillsides overlooking the town harboured a harsher reality: Menton was once the leading lemon-growing region in all of Europe, but today, only about 15 producers remain. All the fruit for the Fête du Citron's sculptures and floats must be imported from Spain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The annual production of Menton lemons is between 100 and 120 tonnes. In this period, we need between 150 and 180 tonnes of lemons and oranges. So, the production of Menton lemons wouldn't be enough to create the whole of the Fête du Citron,\" said Christophe Ghiena, the city's director of technical services, who added that the remaining citrus is sold at discounted prices after the festival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAside from its Biblical legend, the documented story of the Menton lemon's rise and fall began with its arrival from Spain in the 15th Century. The fruit quickly adapted to Menton's temperate microclimate created by the unique combination of a protective mountain range and proximity to the ocean. By the end of the 18th Century, the region was estimated to produce one million lemons annually, said David Rousseau, director of Menton's heritage department.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In the 17th, 18th and 19th Centuries, the lemon was really the fortune of the city of Menton. Lemons were exported all the way to the United States, to Russia. It was a production of global scale,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was a production of global scale","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Menton lemon's decline began at the end of the French Revolution, when laws that had protected it against competition from other lemon-producing regions were lifted. The second blow came in the 19th Century, when the arrival of British winter tourists prompted the construction of hotels and villas on land used for citrus terraces. Finally, in the 1950s, an unusual cold snap spelled the Menton lemon's demise. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There was a big freeze in Menton and in France, which killed the remaining lemon trees,\" Rousseau said. \"It was in the 1980s that the lemon began to come back thanks to several producers who saw the lemon had potential and relaunched its production.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne such grower is Laurent Gannac. Originally from the southwest of France, Gannac arrived in Menton in 1988 to work as a landscaper. He said that every time he brought lemon trees to clients in the area, he'd get the same question: Is this a \u003Cem\u003EMenton\u003C\u002Fem\u003E lemon?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I had scientific, agricultural training and I'd never even heard of a Menton lemon,\" he said. \"So, I'd say to them 'Well, I brought it from Menton so I guess it's a Menton lemon if you want.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe soon became curious about the species and, in 1991, he planted his first Menton lemon tree. At the time, the few remaining producers questioned why a young person would be interested in a seemingly bygone product, Gannac said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Gannac and his son own 750 trees on 2.5 hectares of land with the goal of reaching 1,000 trees in the next three years. Although his operation pales in comparison to the output of producers in Spain or Italy, Gannac is proud to call himself the first person in recent years to live entirely off the Menton lemon. Yet, he is one of very few.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"To plant 400 trees here means to start with a site that's completely abandoned, clear it, level the terraces, create irrigation reservoirs and fence it to protect from wild boars,\" he said. \"It's a lot of work, especially when you consider it takes eight years to recoup the investment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, Gannac says he believes the tide is changing, thanks in large part to an effort by local officials, growers and other stakeholders to achieve the European Union's Protected Geographical Indication for the Menton lemon, which it received in 2015.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough he had been cultivating the Menton lemon for nearly two decades at the time, it was during this process that Gannac was confronted with the uniqueness of the species during a visit to France's National Institute for Agricultural Research. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I always thought the Mentonnais were a little biased about their lemon,\" he said. \"When I had the chance to go from tree to tree and taste each lemon, I realised that the real Menton lemon is actually different from others in its scent, sweetness and peel that is so mild it can be eaten.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Menton lemon has also been praised for its thick skin and high essential oil content which makes it a favourite of well-known chefs like Mauro Colagreco at the helm of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mirazur.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMirazur\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Menton restaurant ranked number one in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eater.com\u002Fworlds-50-best-restaurants-awards\u002F2019\u002F6\u002F25\u002F18714984\u002Fworlds-50-best-restaurants-2019\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld's 50 Best in 2019\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"The Menton lemon is a very rare product. It has a different flavour and texture from the lemons you find elsewhere and can even be eaten directly from the tree (as a fruit). In our five gardens, we want to keep this exceptional variety. Each year we plant new trees to perpetuate the culture,\" Colagreco said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhen in season, the chef uses the fruit in dishes like a Menton lemon tart or a \u003Cem\u003Etourbillon \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(swirl) of fish larvae with Menton lemon and chives. He also produces a lemon confit to \"remember the flavour all year long\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EColagreco is not the only chef who has become an ambassador of the species. Luisa Delpiano-Inversi is the founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pastapiemonte.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPasta Piemonte\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Menton-based pasta producer that opened in 2013. Shortly thereafter, Delpiano-Inversi found success with her Menton lemon ravioli, an unexpected combination that she now ships across France for those who live far from the Riviera to experience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"This lemon resembles no other,\" she wrote in her 2017 \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.apple.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on the topic. \"Its juice is intensely fragrant with a semi-acidic flavour and no bitterness.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGannac said he remembers a time when the Menton lemon was little more than a pretext used to draw in tourists during the Fête du Citron, which began in 1934. As French consumers become increasingly interested in local products, Gannac now credits the Fête with giving him an opportunity to meet his customers and speak about the uniqueness of his fruit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERousseau agrees that the recent editions of the Fête du Citron have helped bring more awareness to the Menton lemon. Many of this year's guided tours of lemon terraces were sold out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The visitors are a lot more interested in the story of the Menton lemon than before. Before they came mostly to see the sculptures and attend the parade,\" he said. \"Today, they really wish to discover the city and not just come to see the floats.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps the most promising result of the local effort to revitalise the species can be found in the enthusiasm of the next generation of lemon growers, among them Laetita Sepicacchi, a Menton native who began cultivating her family's property in 2015 in collaboration with the city's initiative to plant more trees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The visitors are a lot more interested in the story of the Menton lemon than before","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the time, Sepicacchi was working in Paris and often travelled home to Menton to rest and recharge. It was during one of these visits that she realised the terraces of the former vineyard were the perfect place to continue the tradition of lemon cultivation. While she waits for her 35 young trees to reach maturity, Sepicacchi harvests about 100kg of fruit per year from three older trees. She sells her lemons to individuals and French and European grocers, although some of her clients have also been reputable perfume producers interested in the essential oils of her lemons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This project allows me to rediscover and transmit a cultural heritage,\" she said. \"It's as if the roots of the trees are grounded in a heritage and an identity at a time when the world is steeped in virtual culture, which can sometimes be materialistic and individualistic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Sepicacchi reflects on her ultimate goal to cultivate the Menton lemon, she imagines a day when lemon trees can once again define the local landscape and support the town's economy, maybe even resembling the French poet Stéphen Liégeard's 1887 description: \"little valleys that leave to the breeze the care to shake passers-by, the heady smell of lemon trees.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EForgotten Foods\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E offers hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life through cooking and cultivation.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-29T14:20:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The return of France's lost lemon","headlineShort":"How a French town lost its lemons","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.7960375","longitude":"7.4636967","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Menton was once the top lemon growing region in all of Europe but had seen a steep decline over the centuries. Recently, however, producers are again seeing the fruit's potential.","summaryShort":"Sadly, all its fruit must be imported from Spain","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-28T14:22:42.099931Z","entity":"article","guid":"abb3da5b-bea2-4a48-b080-e9b5e8891c25","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-29T06:41:49.702209Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355539},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk","_id":"6267df7a1f4b7b21983c93ec","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"This little-known delicacy from Serbia, made with milk believed to slow down the ageing process and boost virility, is the most expensive cheese in the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESlobodan Simić lounged on the crude wooden bench in Zasavica Special Nature Reserve’s dining room like the caterpillar from Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, holding court and puffing on the quarter-bent Calabash-style briar pipe that dangled delicately from his teeth. Tanned creases ran down his face like tributaries, and his eyes sparkled with mischief.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Rakia?” he said, offering me a shot of the strong Balkan brandy that is often drunk in the morning, even before coffee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“\u003Cem\u003ENe, hvala\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,” I replied, shaking my head and thanking him. Instead, I accepted a cup of thick Turkish coffee accompanied by a shot glass of donkey milk from Zasavica’s herd. It was my first time tasting the sweet milk; I was even more eager to try the donkey cheese, a delicacy I’d learned about a few years back when rumours swirled that Serbian tennis ace Novak Djokovic was buying up their entire stock for his restaurants. Although the rumours were untrue, they brought global attention to Zasavica – and Serbia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite being a nature lover, Simić never set out to create a farm. Twenty years ago, the former MP-turned-conservationist remembered that he’d heard about some wetlands in west-central Serbia. His ex-wife’s parents, who lived in a nearby village, took him to see them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I fell in love immediately,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EZasavica, named after the river that runs through it, is located just 90km northwest of Belgrade, but the 1,825-hectare area was virtually undiscovered. The place is ripe for bird watching, and in the summer, hues are so vibrant they seem otherworldly. With the help of his political contacts, Simić transformed the wild marshland into a nature reserve in 1997.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThree years later, Simić was at a fair in the nearby town of Ruma and saw some abused Balkan donkeys. No longer needed for work or transportation, they’d been beaten and were in bad shape. He had the idea to rescue them and bring them to Zasavica. Today, 180 Balkan donkeys, smaller than most donkeys and marked with crosses on their backs, roam the verdant marshland. Other native animals were added, including the Mangalica, related to the Hungarian “curly pig”, and the Podolian cow, originating from the European wild cow. Beavers were also reintroduced to the area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We lost contact with animals, and we need that contact,” Simić said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut I’d come for the donkeys. More specifically, for the donkey milk cheese, which is the most expensive cheese in the world due to the extremely low milk yield of the \u003Cem\u003Emagarica\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (female donkey): just 300 millilitres per day. Rich in vitamins and minerals, donkey milk is believed to slow down the ageing process and has been used as an immunity booster in the Balkans since ancient times. Cleopatra allegedly even bathed in it. It is also purported to boost virility.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If you drink our milk, you can even sleep with your own wife,” joked Simić, who has been married three times.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESimić had the notion to produce donkey milk cheese a few years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“He is full of crazy ideas, but he is always right,” said farm manager Jovan Vukadinović, a formidable former traffic police chief with a near-white moustache that resembled a bristle brush.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo one had produced cheese from donkey milk before, and it took some experimentation. Stevan Marinković, a dairy technologist, was brought in to consult. Donkey milk doesn’t have enough casein to make cheese, so he compensated by adding goat milk to the mix. The winning formula, which Marinković is in the process of patenting, turned out to be 60% donkey milk and 40% goat milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut despite there being no established rules for donkey milk (or donkey milk cheese) in Serbia, concerns arose over the use of unpasteurized milk, and Zasavica was forced to stop factory production of the cheese.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the meantime, until official regulations are determined, local cheese makers Zoran Nedić, Momčilo Budimirović and his assistant, Milena, are producing small amounts of donkey cheese with milk pasteurized at low levels for Zasavica in a room adjacent to Budimirović’s kitchen in the nearby village of Glu&scaron;ci.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI sat at Budimirović’s dining table with Nedić, Vukadinović and Simić, who were chatting in rapid Serbian. \u003Cem\u003EDomaće crno vino\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (domestic red wine) and a wedge of white cheese were on the table.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Is this donkey cheese?” I asked. Vukadinović shook his head. “Goat cheese, so you can taste the difference.” It was tangy and crumbly, with a dark \u003Cem\u003Ekora od hrast \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(oak bark) rind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen, without much ceremony, Budimirović brought out a much smaller bell-shaped chunk of \u003Cem\u003Emagareći sir\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (donkey cheese). It had a yellowish tinge, and was less crumbly than the goat cheese. This piece, the size of a cupcake, would sell for 50 euros, I was told. Nedić cut me a slice. Its flavour was sweet, clean and mild, unlike any cheese I had ever tasted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe headed to the cheese room to see how it was made. That day, the trio of cheese makers were crafting goat cheese, but they explained donkey cheese is essentially made the same way – although the exact method is a secret. Rennet is added to the milk to help it coagulate, and the curds are strained and hand packed into moulds. The cheese stays in the mould for 24 hours, then it is removed and refrigerated in a large trailer cooler in Budimirović’s yard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EZasavica also sells donkey milk cosmetics, such as donkey milk soap and anti-ageing face creams, which contain essential fatty acids and high levels of vitamin A; and donkey milk liqueur that tastes like milky Limoncello.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe reserve, which has been supported by international grants, is working to become self-sustaining. Selling animal products is part of that plan, as is camping: Zasavica was rated among the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.camping-zasavica.com\u002Fcamping-zasavica-amongst-100-best-campsites-in-europe\u002F250\"\u003E100 best campsites in Europe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2013 and 2014.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We made something in the middle of the nothing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“We made something in the middle of the nothing,” Vukadinović said. “We always have to find new ways to survive. It’s easy when they say ‘sustainable tourism’, but it’s not easy. We want to be the best. We know we can’t change the world, we can’t change Serbia, but we always want to do just a little better than normal. That is our mission.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJust before I left, Vukadinović and I took a walk through the reserve. Donkeys grazed on shrubbery and frolicked in the grass. They nuzzled, cleaned each other and nursed. A grey donkey ambled toward me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“She’s pregnant,” Vukadinović said. “A magarica can be pregnant for more than a year.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI reached out and rubbed her forehead, fingering her coarse hair. She nuzzled my hand and leaned her body into mine. When we turned to leave she followed me, nudging for more attention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“They are very intelligent and social,” Vukadinović said. He bent down and hugged her neck. “This is very good for the stress.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe sat down at a picnic table for lunch. Sun illuminated the flat landscape, highlighting various shades of green – moss, pine, fern – against a clear blue sky. Frogs sang. A stork soared overhead, landing on her nest atop Zasavica’s 18m-high watchtower.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVukadinović brought out a plate of cured meats: Mangalica sausage, speck and donkey sausage. I cringed a little. “Try it,” he urged, gesturing to the donkey sausage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis was one of their products I had \u003Cem\u003Enot\u003C\u002Fem\u003E planned to sample. “How do you choose which donkeys are made into sausage?” I said. He explained that male donkeys sometimes become interested in their daughters, and then “it’s sausage time for them.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI speared a mottled slice with a toothpick. The fatty meat was tough and slightly gamey. Even eating an incestuous donkey felt wrong after communing with these gentle creatures – but Zasavica embraces the cycle of life, replete with its imperfections.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHere you can go back to a way of living that has all but disappeared, when people cured their own meats and made their own cheese. You can experience virgin nature. You can believe, even for a moment, the local legend: on this land there was too much sun from Christ, which forever marked the Balkan donkey with a cross pattern on its coat, running down its spine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=tvl.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called “If You Only Read 6 Things This Week”. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital, Travel and Autos, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-16"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2016-07-27T19:51:42Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A cheese made from… donkey milk?","headlineShort":"The most expensive cheese in the world?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"44.9517","longitude":"19.5017","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This little-known delicacy from Serbia, made with milk believed to slow down the ageing process and boost virility, is the most expensive cheese in the world.","summaryShort":"It's made with milk believed to slow down the ageing process and boost virility","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T22:46:14.774417Z","entity":"article","guid":"fa6e5d8a-ed4f-4c26-a5e4-5d3ac31db3f2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T07:08:52.317363Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355542},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine","_id":"6267df881f4b7b1f8b32bf81","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Pastrami, schnitzel, gefilte fish: Jewish food isn't often known as plant-based. But there is a long tradition of Ashkenazi Jewish vegetarianism – one a new crop of chefs is reviving.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAbout an hour has gone by: time to take the gefilte fish and carrots out of the boiling water. In another pot, I've got potatoes and pickles simmering in stock and brine; I stir in a hefty dollop of sour cream to cut the acidity and top the soup  with a sprinkling of fresh chopped dill. Tomorrow, I'll be cooking a leek frittata for breakfast and schnitzel breaded with matzo meal for dinner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI'm swimming in shtetl nostalgia – Ashkenazi Jews have been making versions of these recipes for decades. Gefilte fish (an appetiser made from poached fish), for example, has been a favourite since they first settled on the banks of the German Rhine in the 11th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut there's a key difference. I'm making vegetarian versions of these dishes. And, in doing so, I know I'm closer to the traditions of my ancestors than I would be with the stacked \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160218-is-nycs-most-iconic-sandwich-dying\"\u003Epastrami\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160218-is-nycs-most-iconic-sandwich-dying\"\u003E sandwiches\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that have become the standard-bearer of Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor my Ashkenazi ancestors, the towers of meat you can find at the Jewish deli were nonexistent. Instead, their kitchens would be full of fresh, regional and seasonal vegetables, an assortment of pickles and, if they were lucky, some dairy. Meat and fish were expensive rarities until the industrialisation of meat production in the early 20th Century. That's why the gefilte fish I'm making now is a vegetarian imitation adapted from a century-old recipe using a purée of salsify (oyster plant), cashews and onion mixed with eggs and matzo meal, shaped into disc-like quenelles for poaching, then topped with one sliced carrot and sinus-clearing horseradish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInstead of veal, the schnitzel is a cut of celeriac root covered in flour, egg wash and matzo meal that browns after a few minutes on a hot skillet – as instructed by an 84-year-old recipe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt may come as a surprise to fans of the Jewish deli, but the values of vegetarianism have long been espoused and cherished by Ashkenazi Jewish cooks. And these values are returning from the sidelines. From Los Angeles, California and Cleveland, Ohio, to New York's Lower East Side and Brooklyn – where most Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants first settled and many sold pickles from pushcarts – a new generation of Jewish sandwich slingers and cookbook authors are promoting \"plant-forward\" eating.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn doing so, they're embodying many of the beliefs spelled out by the likes of chef Fania Lewando in her 1938 cookbook \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyivo.org\u002FThe-Vilna-Vegetarian-Cookbook\"\u003EThe Vilna Vegetarian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – and revolutionising modern Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine by taking it back to its roots (pun intended).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Vilna Vegetarian\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEve Jochnowitz is a culinary ethnographer based in New York City's Greenwich Village where she grew up. She published a translation of Lewando's Yiddish-language cookbook in 2015, including around 400 vegetarian recipes.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are sections expected of most any cookbook, like salads – with earthy dishes based on radishes and red cabbage – and soups ranging from a puréed carrot soup to bran borscht. Then come the unmistakably Jewish sections, like latkes (10 kinds) and Passover foods. There is even a section labelled \"Kugels with Cholents\", with 11 different ways to make the traditional Jewish casserole to go with the Sabbath stew left to simmer overnight – that way, it's ready for Shabbat lunch without lifting a finger.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the foreword to The Vilna Vegetarian, celebrated cookbook author Joan Nathan writes that the Yiddish and German kosher cookbooks of the 1930s offered vegetarian recipes in response to anti-Semitic laws outlawing the traditional Jewish ritual of slaughtering animals. But vegetarianism in Jewish cuisine goes back as far as the Talmud, the compilation of rabbinic debate on Jewish law, philosophy and biblical interpretation that was produced between the 3rd and 8th Centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENora Rubel is co-founder of the vegan Jewish deli \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.grassfedrochester.com\u002F\"\u003EGrass Fed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Rochester, New York, and a Jewish studies professor at the University of Rochester where she researches American Jewish culture, culinary history and religion. She noted that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sefaria.org\u002FPesachim.114b.1?lang=bi\"\u003Ethe Talmud allows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the use of a beet on a Passover Seder plate instead of a shank bone. Knowledge like this, Rubel said, can embolden Jewish vegetarians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This shows us that [our ancestors] were already talking about this a long time ago,\" Rubel said. \"This is part of our culinary lineage.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECenturies later, in 1938, Lewando continued that lineage in what is today Vilnius, Lithuania, where she owned a kosher dairy restaurant, ran a kosher cooking school and supervised a vegetarian kosher kitchen on an ocean liner that travelled between Gydnia, Poland, and New York City. In the introduction to her cookbook, she wrote of the importance of being resourceful and never throwing anything away because \"everything can be made into food\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe also connected vegetarianism to Jewish values.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"From the humanitarian principle of '\u003Cem\u003Etsar baaley khayim'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (not killing living creatures), it would be desirable to replace meat with a purely vegetarian cuisine,\" Lewando wrote. (It's worth noting that Lewando's translation is contested, with some saying it means not causing undue pain to animals, given that meat also plays a role in historic Jewish culture.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ELand of abundance\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat happened between the 1930s and today? After all, salads full of garden vegetables and resourceful soups are hardly what come to mind when people think of Ashkenazi Jewish food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Meat was super cheap in America,\" said Jeffrey Yoskowitz, Jewish food expert and the co-founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.orderpapaya.com\u002F\"\u003EPapaya\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a plant-based food delivery platform featuring meals from top chefs at vegan and non-vegan restaurants. \"The idea of eating this giant mega sandwich of beef is just the ultimate symbol of abundance and the affluence of America.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, that abundance made not eating meat a mockable offence, said Jochnowitz. \"There is a Yiddish saying: '\u003Cem\u003EDos beste milkhiks iz a shtikl fleysh'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" she said. \"The best dairy is a piece of meat.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn reality, eating meat on rare occasions was the norm throughout Ashkenazi Jewish history up until their arrival to the United States and the industrialisation of meat that drove down prices. Before then, meat was not something most Jews in Eastern Europe could afford in the 18th, 19th and early 20th Centuries. Coupled with meat shortages and lack of access to kosher meat, most Jews were what Jochnowitz calls \"de facto vegetarians\", though they likely would not have thought of themselves as such.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"People look at Jewish delis as the place where you get traditional home-cooked Jewish foods, but immigrant Ashkenazi Jewish mothers didn't want children going to the deli,\" said Yoskowitz. \"My grandmother didn't want my father going to the deli because these weren't the foods at home.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe deli meats and knishes (stuffed dough balls) of the Jewish-American deli were junk food in the eyes of Yoskowitz's Poland-born grandmother. It's no surprise his grandmother would take such a strict view considering she was herself a vegetarian. She'd take her son, Yoskowitz's father, to the Catskills in Upstate New York for a summer vacation stays at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Funtappedcities.com\u002F2017\u002F10\u002F05\u002F10-abandoned-resorts-from-the-borscht-belt-in-catskills-new-york\u002F4\u002F\"\u003EThe Vegetarian Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a resort founded in the early 20th Century. There was vegetarian chopped liver, blueberries with sour cream and radishes and other vegetables from the hotel garden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's a story Yoskowitz touches on in his 2016 award-winning cookbook \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gefilteria.com\u002Fgefilte-manifesto\"\u003EThe Gefilte Manifesto\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where he and his co-author Liz Alpern revisit traditional, Old World Jewish foods with new recipes. The emphasis of the book is on embracing the resourceful techniques of our Ashkenazi Jewish ancestors, such as pickling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, it was pickling that first got Yoskowitz hooked on rediscovering Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine 15 years ago, at the organic Jewish farm \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fadamahfarmcsafallsvillage.weebly.com\u002Fthe-farm.html\"\u003EAdamah\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Connecticut. It made him question why neither pickling nor the connection between harvests and sustainability weren't more intrinsically connected to Ashkenazi Jewish culinary history. \"I felt like that story wasn't being told through the delis,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECulinary nostalgia\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe urge to rediscover traditional recipes might be even stronger among Ashkenazi Jews than other cultures because of the Holocaust, said Yoskowitz. The loss of their culinary homeland and the murder of so many families, he said, created a tenuous connection to the places where Ashkenazi families lived for centuries and – in some ways – froze Ashkenazi cuisine in time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe contrasted the Jewish experience to that of Italians. While Italians also immigrated to the Lower East Side, many often would travel back and forth to their homeland, importing a number of ingredients to the US with them. Lower East Side Jews, on the other hand, only imported dried mushrooms, thanks partly to the fact that they couldn't recreate the local terroir or forest floor of their homeland in New York City. Then the Holocaust decimated the unmarked boundaries of Yiddishland that stretched from France across Central Europe to the edges of Eastern Europe; for many, the pain severed any connection they had had.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"A whole new culture had to be forged,\" said Yoskowitz. \"But because of that, the nostalgia for the past grows stronger and stronger.\"    \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo it's fitting that a number of new vegan Jewish delis pay homage to the owners' grandparents – like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.benandesthers.com\u002F\"\u003EBen & Esther\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.benandesthers.com\u002F\"\u003E'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.benandesthers.com\u002F\"\u003Es\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Portland, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.samandgerties.com\u002F\"\u003ESam & Gertie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.samandgerties.com\u002F\"\u003E'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.samandgerties.com\u002F\"\u003Es\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Chicago and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmortandbettys.com\u002F\"\u003EMort & Betty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmortandbettys.com\u002F\"\u003E'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmortandbettys.com\u002F\"\u003Es\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Los Angeles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Vilna Vegetarian continues to influence her cooking, said Mort & Betty’s owner Megan Tucker. She often refers to the book for recipes or to see how a specific ingredient was used.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I love the procedure in the pickled cucumbers recipe,\" Tucker said. \"Scalding a barrel, covering the bottom with horseradish leaves and finishing by pounding a stopper into the top and placing it in the sun for two days.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Cleveland, Ohio, meanwhile, a refurbished mid-19th Century firehouse has become a haven of nostalgic aromas and spices. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flarderdb.com\u002F\"\u003ELarder Delicatessen and Bakery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E chef Jeremy Umansky also credits The Vilna Vegetarian for showing him how his ancestors truly would have eaten, using plants first and meat only on special occasions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUmansky, too, is fascinated by pickling. He uses koji, a Japanese mould that speeds up the curing process and gives vegetables a smoky, savoury flavour with a texture that resembles meat. (In 2020, he even co-authored the book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chelseagreen.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fkoji-alchemy\u002F\"\u003EKoji Alchemy: Rediscovering the Magic of Mold-Based Fermentation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.) Koji is an essential ingredient to his vegan pastrami, which features mushrooms that are cured with salt before being spiced and smoked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENobody can say for certain where Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine is headed next. But there's no doubt it'll be far more complex and multifaceted than most deli fanatics could imagine. Fruits and vegetables from the garden will be front and centre – whether salted, seasoned, roasted or pickled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor that, we can thank this new generation of cooks who are circling back and taking their cues from the seeds planted by our ancestors. Whatever the result, it will be delicious.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-22T10:43:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A return to vegetarian Jewish cuisine","headlineShort":"A return to vegetarian Jewish cuisine","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Pastrami, schnitzel, gefilte fish: Jewish food isn't often known as plant-based. But there is a long tradition of Ashkenazi Jewish vegetarianism – one a new crop of chefs is reviving.","summaryShort":"Modern chefs are going back to recipes from a 1938 cookbook","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-21T21:44:05.565964Z","entity":"article","guid":"40ae5520-cb66-46a9-ae43-c7cfd8c3ad65","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T09:16:24.349192Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355540},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims","_id":"6267df801f4b7b1d992465ba","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"For more than 100 years, the synagogues in Kolkata, India, have been cared for by Muslims in a shining example of friendship uniting faith.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Birth of the ‘Baghdadis’","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor nearly 140 years, from 1772 to 1911, Kolkata was the capital of British India – a bustling commercial city on the bank of the Hugli River in the heart of West Bengal. Its strategic position, roughly 150km upstream from the Bay of Bengal, not only brought foreign trade, but also enticed several foreign communities – from Chinese to Armenians to Greeks – to migrate to the thriving city. Among them were Jews from the Middle East.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKnown as ‘Baghdadis’ or ‘Baghdadi Jews’ because of their origins in modern-day Iraq, Syria and other Arabic-speaking places, Jewish immigrants began settling in Kolkata in 1798 after a trader named Shalom Cohen came in search of riches. As news spread of Cohen’s success in the trade of diamonds, silk, indigo, opium and cotton, Kolkata’s Jewish population grew rapidly, and by the early 1900s, thousands of Jews were living harmoniously alongside Kolkata’s many Hindus and Muslims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Disappearing act","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter World War Two, as many as 5,000 Jews resided in Kolkata. During the community’s peak in the 1940s, Kolkata was home to five synagogues, as well many Jewish businesses, newspapers and schools. Today, what was once India’s largest Judaic community has dwindled to fewer than 24 people, as many Baghdadi Jews have immigrated to Israel, the US, Britain, Canada and Australia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet, while Kolkata’s Judaic population ages and shrinks, its remaining community continues a cross-cultural tradition that has existed for the past three generations: its three remaining houses of worship are maintained and cared for by Muslim men.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Family across faiths","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EClimbing the marble staircase and pushing past the stained glass window of Kolkata’s Beth El Synagogue, built in 1856, visitors may come across a rare sight: a team of four white-clad Muslim men busy polishing the wooden balconies, sweeping the chequered marble floors and ensuring that the Star of David and seven-pointed menorah adorning the building’s sand-coloured facade are clean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESeveral of the caretakers, such as Siraj Khan, a third-generation Muslim employee whose family has been maintaining the synagogue for more than 120 years, have grown up alongside Beth El’s few remaining members. According to AM Cohen, general secretary of Kolkata’s Jewish Community Affairs, Khan and the other Muslim caretakers of the city’s synagogues are considered part of the Jewish family.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Religious relatives","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust 300m from Beth El, one of Kolkata’s other remaining synagogues, Magen David, a towering Italian Renaissance-style red-brick building, is also maintained by four different Muslim men whose families have looked over the temple for generations. Like at Beth El, after the caretakers unlock the doors and turn on the altar lights, illuminating Hebrew inscriptions of the Ten Commandments, the workers often gather in a courtyard to unfurl a prayer rug towards Mecca and bend in prostration to Allah.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Jael Silliman, one of Kolkata’s last remaining Jews and author of the digital archive \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.jewishcalcutta.in\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERecalling Jewish Calcutta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which aims to preserve the memories and legacy of the city’s Jewish community, there has always been a cultural familiarity between Muslims and Jews in Kolkata, as the earliest Jewish immigrants to the city spoke Judeo-Arabic and wore Arabic attire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBeyond Kolkata, the two religions have a long history of overlap. Fittingly, during the tumultuous years before and during World War Two, many European Jews fled Nazi Germany and found safe refuge in Kolkata. Like their Jewish Middle-Eastern predecessors, these newly arrived European refugees soon found that they had a lot in common with the Muslims who made up Kolkata’s largest minority group – from similarities between kosher and halal food to their music and dance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Special bond","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“God is everywhere, be it a mosque, temple, church or synagogue, and working in this quaint synagogue is a service to God that I do wholeheartedly,” said Khan (pictured), whose grandfather and father cared for the Beth El Synagogue, and who now maintains it alongside his brother.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“His name or form is not to be differentiated when the language of love and kindness is spoken. And this special bond is what I feel with this synagogue.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Melting pot","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWest Bengal is home to India’s third-highest concentration of Muslims, and Kolkata, its capital, has always been something of a haven for religious tolerance. While the majority of the 4.5 million population is Hindu, Muslims, Christians, Jews, Buddhists and Sikhs from across the world have long co-existed in the so-called ‘City of Joy’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, it’s not uncommon in Kolkata for Hindus to join Muslims in mosques to celebrate the Eid-al-Adha ‘Festival of Sacrifice’ – one of the holiest Islamic holidays. The Jewish Girls’ School that was established in Kolkata in 1881 is now predominantly Muslim. And every year during the holy Hindu celebration of Durga Puja and the Christian Christmas festivities, a sea of Bengali revellers, regardless of religion, routinely take to the streets to dance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Fading away","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to AM Cohen, a few factors led to Kolkata’s Jewish population disappearing after the end of World War Two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFirst, India’s independence from Britain in 1947 signalled an uncertain time for India’s Jews. Banks and businesses became nationalised, and many Jewish property owners, fearing their assets may be taken by the Indian government, moved to Britain or the US. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn addition, the creation of the state of Israel in 1948 spurred a steady migration of Jews from India and from around the world to the new country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Uncertain future","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Kolkata’s dwindling Jewish population faces a very uncertain future. While both the Beth El and Magen David synagogues are now recognised as protected heritage buildings by the Archaeological Survey of India, they – along with the city’s oldest synagogue, Neveh Shalom – haven’t held regular Saturday services since the late 1980s due to a lack of attendance. According to the Jewish \u003Cem\u003Eminyan \u003C\u002Fem\u003Econgregational quorum, 10 adult males must be present to sanctify public prayer, and there aren’t enough Jewish men left.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the 1940s, Ian Zachariah, treasurer of Emunah Calcutta Jewish Trust, remembers that the wooden seats at Kolkata’s synagogues used to be filled with hundreds of worshippers during the High Holidays of Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur. Now, the three buildings are only open by special appointment or by asking one of the Muslim caretakers, who are paid to look after the temples by the Emunah Calcutta Jewish Trust, to enter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf the 24 or so Jews who continue to live in Kolkata, most are over the age of 50 and older than their Muslim brethren who continue to maintain the synagogues.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"An Indian inspiration","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs violence and political tension against Jews and Muslims continue to draw headlines throughout much of the world, Kolkata’s Muslim caretakers and their commitment to looking after these Jewish synagogues are a reminder that these two communities share much in common, and the importance of loving one’s neighbour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKolkata’s Jewish population may soon fade away, but as long as there is someone to care for the temples, open the doors and let visitors in, a part of their heritage will live on thanks to their Muslim brothers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EVideo by Kalpana Pradhan, text by Sreya Chatterjee.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fbreaking-barriers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBreaking Barriers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series featuring inspiring tales of unity and humanity in theatres of dispute and division.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-04-18T19:40:01Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Indian synagogues preserved by Muslims","headlineShort":"The synagogues preserved by Muslims","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For more than 100 years, the synagogues in Kolkata, India, have been cared for by Muslims in a shining example of friendship uniting faith.","summaryShort":"As Kolkata’s Jewish population dwindles, a symbol of harmony unites religions","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:33:21.517678Z","entity":"article","guid":"2af36186-f27c-46d7-a3b9-360876e43842","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:47:34.153892Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355540},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin","_id":"6267dfc71f4b7b4ae70b48a5","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Although the heavily-Hindu city is well known for its substantial Muslim and Christian populations, its lesser-known native Paradesi Jewish community is fast-dwindling.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the small neighbourhood of Mattancherry in the South Indian city of Cochin, Kashmiri shopkeepers in Islamic dress stand in front of shops emblazoned with banners reading “Shalom!” Inside, Hindu statues and shawls vie for space with Jewish stars, menorahs and mezuzahs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough this multiculturalism might seem strange, the majority-Hindu city is well known for its substantial Muslim and Christian populations. Less known is that there’s also a fast-dwindling native Jewish community, known as the Paradesi (Foreign) Jews, who once populated the neighbourhood’s Jew Town area. At its peak in the 1950s, there were a total of 250 Jews in the thriving Jew Town community\u003Cem\u003E;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E then most immigrated to newly founded Israel. Today, only six Paradesi Jews remain here; most are in their 80s and only one is of child-bearing age.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough little known, India’s Jews have a long history in this part of the world, reputedly first arriving as the descendants of traders from the time of King Solomon’s reign (circa 970 to 931 BC) and landing in present day Kodungallur, 47km to the north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESometime between 379 and 1000 (date contested), the then Chera Dynasty king, Bhaskara Ravi Varma, bestowed a gift of copper plates to the tribe, giving 72 privileges to the community, including the freedom to practice their religion and tax exemption “as long as the world and the moon exist”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the 14th Century, the Jewish community and temple moved south to Cochin due to flooding further north, and in 1344 they built Kochangadi Synagogue, Cochin’s first synagogue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 1492, a group of Sephardic Jews expelled from the Iberian Peninsula came to Cochin; and since then the community has continued to assimilate incredibly successfully. During Portuguese persecution in the 16th Century, they were granted sanctuary by the Hindu Rajah of Cochin, Keshava Rama Varma. The present day \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.keralatourism.org\u002Fkochi\u002Fparadeso-synagogue-mattancherry.php\"\u003EParadesi synagogue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was built in 1568 on land granted by Varma, and the Jew Town neighbourhood built up around it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe community’s absolute acceptance was shown in 1968, when the synagogue celebrated its 400th anniversary of refuge and was given a \u003Cem\u003Emazeltov\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (congratulations) by then Prime Minister of India, Indira Gandhi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut despite being able to call this land home, the dwindling Paradesi community looks set to disappear.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUpon arriving in Jew Town, I headed straight to Synagogue Lane, the main thoroughfare, expecting to find rows of vibrant Jewish shops and synagogues. But there was only one authentic Judaica shop left among all the tourist traps: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fjewishmonumentskerala.blogspot.com.au\u002F2011\u002F08\u002Fsarah-jacob-cohens-hand-embroidery-shop.html\"\u003ESarah’s Embroidery Shoppe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The store’s iron-gated windows were decorated with Jewish stars of David, while the bars were painted white and blue in honour of the Israeli flag. As a practicing half-Jew from New York who’d read about the lonely existence of my tribe in the southern Indian state of Kerala, my heart sang when I entered and saw Hebrew writing on the walls and \u003Cem\u003Echallah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (ritual bread) covers for sale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe middle-aged Muslim shopkeeper, Thaha Ibrahim, explained that Sarah Cohen, the elderly Jewish owner, had always been passionate about embroidery, making shawls and headscarves as a hobby for the community’s weddings and ceremonies – and eventually opening her own shop in the 1980s. Although Cohen used to hand make all the mezuzahs and challah covers herself, her hands now shake too much, forcing Ibrahim to take over. He’s also training other Muslim, Hindu and Christian locals the embroidery skills that Cohen taught him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI watched him demonstrate how to print the ink patterns for the challah covers. Ibrahim said he’s been intrigued by Judaism since childhood, when his father used to work next door at the postcard shop. His smile and eyes betrayed a deep love for Cohen and the Jewish community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA few years back, Ibrahim and his friend Thoufeek Zakriya documented the history of the tribe in an exhibition and film called the Jews of Malabar (an old name for the region). Today, fellow Muslim Zakriya is one of the few historians for the Jews of Kerala, voluntarily maintaining \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fjewsofmalabar.blogspot.in\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Ea blog\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FJews-of-Malabar\u002F143173142419133?fref=ts\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook page\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, also called the Jews of Malabar. In contrast to the conflict seen elsewhere between Jews and Muslims, the two communities here have been peaceful and integrated for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIbrahim led me into the adjoining room to meet 93-year-old Cohen, who was seated in the window singing her daily Hebrew prayers from a very weathered \u003Cem\u003Esiddur\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (prayerbook). She wore a floral green housedress and a pink handmade \u003Cem\u003Ekippa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (traditional head covering for Jewish men). I learned that Cohen used to cover her hair in the traditional way with lace or a shawl, but since her hands have become too frail to affix those to her white and grey strands, she now wears a kippa in memory of her late husband, Jacob.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHer necklace was not the traditional Jewish star or \u003Cem\u003Echai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the Jewish symbol for life), but Hebrew letters spelling “\u003Cem\u003EShaddai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E”, which means Almighty. I later learned other unusual characteristics of the Cochin Jewry, many of which are derived from Hinduism: they enter the synagogue barefoot, wear special coloured clothing for festivals and celebrate Simcha Torah as a fire ceremony more similar to Hannukah or the Hindu festival of Diwali. Most unusual is that the Cochin Jews have no rabbis, and the community is led entirely by male elders. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECohen stopped singing. “Do you want to learn?” she asked me. “I’ll teach you.” Unlike other Orthodox women from the diaspora, Cochin Jewish women are not forbidden to sing in mixed gender crowds or in public. In fact, the Jews of Cochin have a long tradition of singing prayers and devotional hymns.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs she began to sing in Judeo-Malayalam, the traditional language of the Cochin Jews, a group of local Indian Catholic school students, dressed in saris and accompanied by a nun in full habit, watched through the window in awe. When she finished, I played her some classic Jewish chants on my phone, many of which she’d never heard before. One we both knew was the Shema (Hear, Oh Israel, our God is One) by Kirtan Rabbi, a contemporary rabbi who uses the Hindu prayer beats and styles of kirtan. The cultural mix seemed perfectly fitting. She then became immersed in her prayers again, and Ibrahim pointed me to my next stop: the tribe’s last functioning house of worship, the Paradesi synagogue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter removing my shoes and paying my five rupees to enter, I was greeted by the youngest member of the tiny Jewish population, Yael Halleguah. She was exotic looking, with pale skin and a full head of tight black curls. At 42 years old and with no children, the lineage of the Paradesi Jews will sadly end with her.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI also met Joy KJ, a Malayalee Christian who has been in charge of the 400-year-old temple for more than 25 years, his position passed to him by his father via his great-grandfather. Extremely protective of the site, he proudly showed me the tiled floors imported from China in 1762, the handknit Oriental rug from the last emperor of Ethiopia and the candle lamps from Belgium.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe most familiar area to me was the \u003Cem\u003Ebimah,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or pulpit. But, there was no rabbi to stand at the bimah, only elders who still ran the synagogue. There was an upstairs section of the synagogue for women, with a single prayer book laid open that looked like it had not been used in years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe place felt like a living museum: indeed services are held only when there is a \u003Cem\u003Eminyan (\u003C\u002Fem\u003Ea group of 10 men needed to form a prayer service), now only possible with the inclusion of Jewish male visitors. So the beautiful synagogue is usually empty, save for the tourists who come to marvel at its beauty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut the copper plates are still there, safely locked in a secret location, as is the sign from the original Kochangadi Synagogue on the temple’s outer wall that reads that the temple was built in the Hebrew year of 5105 as “an abode for the spirit of God”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter visiting this incredible town and witnessing the harmony between all faiths, it seems that: “for all religions” should be added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECorrection:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E An earlier version of this piece did not specify which Jewish community is at risk. Although there are a number of Jews left in Cochin, this piece focusses on Jew Town in Mattancherry, and its remaining resident Paradesi Jews, rather than the Malabar Jews or others who live outside of Jew Town. Once this clarification was made, it introduced several new errors into the piece, including the number of Jews in Jew Town in 1950. All errors have since been fixed.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin-10"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2015-10-22T19:23:58Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The last six Paradesi Jews of Cochin","headlineShort":"South India's disappearing tribe","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although the heavily-Hindu city is well known for its substantial Muslim and Christian populations, its lesser-known native Paradesi Jewish community is fast-dwindling.","summaryShort":"Cochin's native Paradesi Jewish community looks set to disappear","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T22:28:07.323713Z","entity":"article","guid":"4cdef3ce-2846-4714-98f1-5e3d03eb1b4f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T01:31:06.974922Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355540},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food","_id":"6267dfa41f4b7b35866f2a93","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanita-rao-kashi"],"bodyIntro":"Separated by geography and language, there's not much that might seem to connect India's five dwindling Jewish communities – except praying in Hebrew, and food.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEast of the Hooghly River in the Indian city of Kolkata sits Barabazar, a wholesale market whose history goes back to the 18th Century. Everything – from spices, clothes and electronics to salvaged doors and second-hand furniture – is traded here. Amidst this bustling grid of roads, at the corner of Brabourne Road and Canning Street, sits the imposing Magen David Synagogue. Adjacent to it is the city's oldest existing synagogue, Neveh Shalom Synagogue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBuilt in Italian Renaissance style in the late-19th Century with bright brick finish, beige trim, arches and a pointed tower, Magen David is striking. Inside, chequered floors, ornate pillars, shimmering chandeliers and stained-glass windows make for a memorable image. However, the synagogue is deserted on most days, and hardly any religious activity takes place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKolkata is home to the Baghdadi Jews, who were once abundant enough to warrant five synagogues; now there aren't enough for a \u003Cem\u003Eminyan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (minimum [10] male Jews required for liturgical purposes). Magen David and the smaller Beth El Synagogue on nearby Pollock Street were both classified as protected monuments and renovated by the Archaeological Survey of India in 2017. Today, they are tourist destinations, and kept open for the odd visitor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe story of disappearing Jewish populations finds echoes elsewhere in India. Esther David's recent book, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fharpercollins.co.in\u002Fproduct\u002Fbene-appetit\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBene Appetit: The Cuisine of Indian Jews\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is an attempt to preserve the culinary traditions of these diminishing communities. Jews are believed to have first arrived in India about 2,000 years ago, according to David. Since then, until two centuries ago, waves of Jewish immigrants continued to come here from various parts of the world, fleeing persecution and looking for better livelihoods. Once they landed, they settled in disparate corners of the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe largest group, the Bene Israel Jewish community, is spread over Mumbai and Pune in Maharashtra and parts of Gujarat; while Malabar or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECochin Jews can be found in in Kerala\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBaghdadi Jews settled in Kolkata\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; Bene Ephraim Jews near Machilipatnam, Andhra Pradesh; and Bnei Menashe Jews in Manipur and Mizoram. By 1940, an estimated 50,000 Jews called India home. But widespread immigration to Israel in the 1950s slowly whittled away the numbers and it is estimated that fewer than 5,000 remain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0by85fw"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPredictably, they amalgamated into the local communities and adapted the local language and culinary influences. So much so that each community is now distinct. No two speak the same language and much of their food varies widely. Yet, certain points of overlap remain: all five communities continue to pray in Hebrew and all maintain the dietary laws – which includes no mixing of dairy and meat, no pork, no shellfish, no fish without scales – that are fundamental to the religion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The food of the Indian Jews has regional influences, but [while Jewish cuisine elsewhere usually has a meat element] their staple diet is fish [with scales] and rice,\" David explained, noting that Indian Jews end a meal with sweets made with coconut milk or fruit so as to not mix dairy with meat. \"Because kosher meat is not always available, many of them follow a vegetarian diet,\" she added. The cookbook does list a number of meat dishes, but these are cooked occasionally, on special and festive occasions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe last Paradesi Jews of Cochin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA return to vegetarian Jewish cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Indian synagogues preserved by Muslims\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther distinctive adjustments David notes, include swapping challah for chapatis (unleavened bread) – taking care not to cook or smear it with ghee, as is usually done in India, if served with meat – and using homemade grape juice\u002Fsherbet for the Shabbat ceremony due to the unavailability of kosher wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAn award-winning author and artist from the Bene Israel Jewish community, David confessed that she had only a passing interest in food. One of her previous works, Book of Rachel, has a protagonist who turns to cooking and each chapter begins with a Jewish recipe. Yet, a cookbook was never on the radar for David. A trip to the town of Alibaug (outside Mumbai, and Bene Israel homeland) to meet with a source changed things. The aromas and taste from dishes made by her source took her back to childhood and unlocked long forgotten memories. Hence the first line of Bene Appetit: \"Food is memory\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe exact moment of deciding to write a cookbook on Indian Jewish cuisine, however, occurred far away from home, in Paris, at the launch of one of her novels, where she cooked Bene Israel Jewish dishes and started thinking of documenting Indian Jewish dishes across the country. Back home, she reached out to the communities, travelled and met people, and collected their recipes. When the pandemic hit, work progressed online, and the book was published in 2021.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0by84w0"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe arc in the food story of each of the five communities is a factor of history. In Kolkata, the change in cuisine possibly happened soon after the Iraqi Jewish immigrants arrived and discovered Indian spices. Author Sonal Ved, in her book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpenguin.co.in\u002Fbook\u002Fwhose-samosa-is-it-anyway\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhose Samosa Is It Anyway? The Story of Where \"Indian\" Food Really Came From\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, says when they arrived in the 1800s, they probably knew only such ingredients as chilli and garlic. When they discovered the rest, it \"gave rise to a whole new hybrid Jewish cuisine, which had preparations like \u003Cem\u003Earook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (meaning \"veined\" in Hebrew and Arabic), rice balls flavoured with garam masala; \u003Cem\u003Epantras\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, beef-stuffed pancakes sprinkled with turmeric, ginger and garam masala; \u003Cem\u003Ehanse mukhmura\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a duck-based dish where the meat is cooked with almonds, raisins, bay leaf, tamarind paste and ginger root; and \u003Cem\u003Ealoo-m-kalla murgi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, pot-roasted chicken with potatoes.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the other end of the country, Mattancherry is a tiny locality south of Kochi on the Kerala coast that's home to Jew Town, a mishmash of a few streets with shops selling antiques, spices, knickknacks and local handicrafts, interspersed with cafes and eateries. At the end of Synagogue Lane is the 17th-Century Paradesi (foreign) Synagogue, built with sloped tiled roofs, blue and white willow-patterned tiles, Belgian chandeliers, Jewish symbols and four scrolls of the Torah.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOutside, the humid coastal air carries the aromas of spices, something that Kerala has always had in abundance. As a trading community, the Malabar Jews sensed an opportunity and ended up controlling the local spice trade. Unsurprisingly, Malabari Jewish cuisine today is redolent with spices and tempered with coconut milk (an essential part of traditional Kerala cuisine), which works well with Jewish dietary laws. Here you'll find Malabar Jews eating flavoursome curries made with fish, chicken and vegetables, as well as sambhar (lentil and vegetable gravy), eaten with rice. There are also \u003Cem\u003Eappam\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rice hoppers), \u003Cem\u003Emeen pollichathu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (green fish curry), Jewish fish kofta curry, chicken in coconut curry; and puddings and \u003Cem\u003Epayasam\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a kind of porridge) made coconut milk. An unusual dish is \u003Cem\u003Epastel\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, something similar to an empanada, stuffed with minced chicken.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn western India, home to the Bene Israeli Jews, the local influences are unmistakable. \u003Cem\u003EPoha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (beaten rice) is a familiar Maharashtrian staple used to make breakfast and snacks, but also finds a strong presence in local Jewish food. The poha is washed and mixed with grated coconut, an array of dry fruits and nuts and chopped seasonal fruit, and forms an integral part of the \u003Cem\u003Emalida\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a local Jewish thanksgiving ceremony). But there are also unusual dishes such as \u003Cem\u003Echik-cha-halwa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a signature Bene Israeli sweet made by reducing wheat extract and coconut milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0by84vp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn India's east coast, Machilipatnam, a little port town in Andhra Pradesh's Krishna district, and a few other nearby rural towns are home to the Bene Ephraim Jews, a population of a mere 50. Andhra's fiery food (Andhra Pradesh is India's largest producer of chillies) finds its way into the local Jewish cuisine, with spicy curries accompanying local Andhra dishes that fit into the Jewish tradition, such as tamarind rice, lemon rice, biryani, chicken with \u003Cem\u003Egongura\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (tangy roselle leaves), sambhar, chutneys and a sweet called \u003Cem\u003Ebobbatlu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a flat, round wheat envelope with a sweet lentil filling).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd in India's north-east, the Bnei Menashe Jews in Manipur and Mizoram rely on rice – which is a local staple and eaten for all meals, including breakfast – and accompaniments cooked with fiery red or green chillies as is the local practice. These include such dishes as bamboo-cooked fish, bamboo shoot sauce, a variety of greens including colocasia stir fry and mustard leaves, \u003Cem\u003Eotenga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a dish made with elephant apple), rice \u003Cem\u003Epuris\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fried puffed bread) and even an egg chutney and rice pudding made with local black rice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was both surprising and heartening at the same time. Indian Jews are united by their food heritage","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlong with recipes, David's book also documents how Jews of each region celebrate Jewish festivals and traditions (Shabbat, Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur, Passover, Hanukkah and others) and have adopted cultural aspects from the local communities, such as \u003Cem\u003Emehendi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (henna designs traditionally drawn on the bride's – and other women's – hands and legs during a Hindu wedding) and the wearing of saris and bangles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor David, travelling from community to community, and faced with language and geographical differences, it was the similarities that stood out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was both surprising and heartening at the same time,\" she said. \"Indian Jews are united by their food heritage.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-25T18:50:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The surprising landscape of Indian Jewish food","headlineShort":"The surprising cuisine of Indian Jews","image":["p0by85qg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"9.939093","longitude":"76.270523","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6267dfc91f4b7b565656c4b5"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190417-the-indian-synagogues-preserved-by-muslims","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20150914-the-last-six-jews-of-cochin"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Separated by geography and language, there's not much that might seem to connect India's five dwindling Jewish communities – except praying in Hebrew, and food.","summaryShort":"While the dishes might be vastly different, they're connected by one thing","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-24T19:17:52.813345Z","entity":"article","guid":"a60f352f-8370-4fe7-88f9-148d00a31ee0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-26T18:25:17.589043Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220424-the-surprising-landscape-of-indian-jewish-food","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Findia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_india_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355539},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad","_id":"6267df991f4b7b3044248391","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"An English market town celebrates the punchy plant with an extravagant annual watercress festival and pristine heritage railway.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a sunny July day and I felt as though I was standing in a 19th-Century film set. The whistle of the steam train sounded as I waited on the perfectly preserved Victorian platform at Alresford station in Hampshire. The pale yellow and green station palette, barley twist lamp posts and original signage was virtually the same scene as 100 years ago, and colourful blooms amplified the serene setting. The historical hissing sound marked the beginning of my journey back in time to when the county's famed watercress began to spread nationwide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough watercress may not be frequently used in many countries, in Britain, where it has been cultivated commercially for hundreds of years, it is a commonplace and popular addition at mealtimes. Related to the mustard family, its Latin name, \u003Cem\u003ENasturtium officinale\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, is aptly translated as \"nose twister\", which anyone crunching on its punchy, peppery leaves can attest. Traditionally it's used as the base of watercress soup or to perk up salads and sandwiches, while more modern uses include watercress pesto or hummus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWatercress is undeniably nutritious. Rich in vitamin A (from beta-carotene) and vitamin C, a source of calcium, iron and vitamin E, it also contains useful amounts of vitamin K and vitamin B6. It was known for its health benefits by the ancient Greeks and Romans, and named as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wwf.org.uk\u002Fsites\u002Fdefault\u002Ffiles\u002F2019-02\u002FKnorr_Future_50_Report_FINAL_Online.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFuture 50 Foods in a 2019 report by the World Wildlife Federation and Knorr\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which considered it a \"superfood\" and noted its versatility: \"both the delicate green leaves and paler stems can be eaten sautéed or fresh, and are great mixed in soups, salads, tarts and omelettes\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe handsome market town of Alresford has been the home of watercress for centuries, with the flat, chalky downlands offering the perfect conditions for the plants to flourish. It's known as \"the watercress capital of the UK,\" said Andy Elworthy, senior farms manager at local producer \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vitacress.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVitacress Salads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. He explained that the area provides a constant supply of crystal-clear chalk spring water in which the cress grows, containing essential minerals such as calcium, which is required by the plant. \"The water comes out the ground at a constant 10 to 11C,\" he added, \"which is necessary to protect the crop during winter and cool it in summer.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWatercress was far too perishable to be transported by horse and cart along poor roads since its delicate leaves are best delivered quickly for freshness. It was the opening of Britain's public railways in the 19th Century – particularly the Mid-Hants railway link in 1865, which connected Alresford to London – that ensured its nationwide success. The new rail links meant that watercress could be rapidly transported to the capital and beyond; and while the Mid-Hants railway transported freight from turnips to racehorses, it was soon dubbed the \"Watercress Line\" owing to the huge quantities sent to London's Covent Garden Market each day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Steam train on the heritage Watercress Line, Alresford","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Watercress is equally a symbol of poverty and of great entrepreneurship in the history of London,\" said culinary historian Regula Ysewijn. In fact, watercress was nicknamed \"poor man's bread\" by the Victorians, and street sellers in London sold bunches of it in paper cones to be eaten as a snack, jazzing up what would have been, for many, a plain diet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Watercress is equally a symbol of poverty and of great entrepreneurship in the history of London","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIts popularity continued over the decades. During both world wars, watercress sandwiches in Britain at high tea became a national institution as people rejoiced in homegrown, healthy produce. And in 2003, in a bid to get Brits to eat more greens and to view watercress as more than a garnish, the campaign \"Not Just a Bit on the Side\" from British farmers restarted its notoriety. Even today in the most quintessential place for afternoon tea in London – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theritzlondon.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Ritz\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – an egg mayonnaise, chopped shallots and watercress brioche roll always features on the menu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe English vegetable picked by candlelight\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190710-the-strange-story-of-britains-oldest-sweet\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe strange story of Britain's oldest sweet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210810-englands-delectable-fleeting-vegetable\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEngland's delectable, fleeting vegetable\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the 20-mile Mid-Hants line was closed in 1973 due to British Rail discontinuing loss-making branch lines, volunteers raised finances and eventually reopened it in 1985 as a heritage line, running a 10-mile route from Alresford to Alton.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, visitors flock to Alresford to travel on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwatercressline.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWatercress Line\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, lured by the quintessentially English countryside and Georgian town with pastel-coloured mansions, as well as for the opportunity to learn about the history of the railway and its historical link to watercress.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring my July visit, I noticed the original sidings that would have linked the main railway track to the busy goods yard, in what is now the station car park. This is where the watercress would have been unloaded onto train wagons by farmers, who would bring the watercress by horse and cart from local farms and pack it into wooden boxes with ice and water to prevent it from perishing. A handwritten note detailing the watercress' final destination would be attached to the outside of the wagon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The railway allowed the commercialism of watercress, which occurs naturally in the area, and the cress was taken to London, Southampton, Nottingham and Northampton in four to five hours,\" said Simon Baggott, general manager of the Watercress Line. \"We think Amazon is amazing, but railways were delivering fast even in those days.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBaggott told me that out of their fleet of steam and diesel locomotives, the oldest train in working condition here is 97 years old and the station is still lit by gas. \"The train wagons that were used were built in Eastleigh, 15 miles away; we have an example of a typical wagon from that period – all wooden apart from the wheels and suspension items. They were much smaller than today, so if you didn't have a locomotive, you could use a horse to shunt the wagons around,\" he explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Morris dancers and entertainers at the Alresford Watercress Festival","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe entire hop-on-and-off train journey is curated with care, from the smartly dressed train conductor waving us off from the platform to the lovingly restored wooden cabin to the jam-packed information boards, education rooms and viewing galleries illuminating the past. Although it wasn't open when I visited, due to Covid, Baggott told me that the onboard dining service – called the Watercress Bell – always serves a watercress course, whether a crisp salad in summer or vibrant soup in winter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those who prefer walking, The Watercress Way charity, established in 2016, promotes public awareness and use of the old Watercress Line (and the defunct Didcot-Newbury-Southampton Railway) with a 27-mile waymarked circular route for walkers. Running alongside disused sections of track, the route passes through magnificent rolling chalk Hampshire downland as well as Alresford itself, where you can see the buildings that rose from the ashes of the great fires of the 17th Century and, on the outskirts, a 1980 eel trapping house and disused watercress beds where locals would have left honesty boxes outside years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is only fitting that watercress is celebrated here with an extravagant event, and the\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.watercressfestival.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E Alresford Watercress Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which takes place each May, does just that. It started life in 2006 with just a few traders; 15 years on, it covers the four main streets in the town centre and features more than 180 stalls from local artisan food to crafts. Highlights include the Watercress King and Queen parade with a horse and cart holding a newly harvested crop, watercress recipe demonstrations and a Watercress Eating Championship (last year's winner Glen Walsh ate an 80g bag in 27.75 seconds in a socially distanced competition in someone's back garden). There is also a \"Most Awesome Use Of Watercress\" contest, with past entrants presenting watercress hummus, pork and apple watercress sausages and watercress pesto-filled scotch eggs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisitors will also find watercress on many local menus. Whilst eating a cheese and watercress scone from a nearby farm shop, my eyes came alive and my nose wrinkled with the tingling peppery taste. My thoughts turned back to where my journey began, onboard The Watercress Line, where the window views over watercress beds served as a picturesque reminder of the town's long history with the ingredient.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Historic photo of watercress workers in Alresford, Hampshire","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-09-27T10:17:09Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"England's 'nose-twisting' superfood salad","headlineShort":"The UK's love of 'poor man's bread'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Farmer examining his watercress crop for quality control before harvest. Alresford","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.0856","longitude":"-1.1656","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Farmer examining his watercress crop for quality control before harvest. Alresford","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"An English market town celebrates the punchy plant with an extravagant annual watercress festival and pristine heritage railway.","summaryShort":"It's now deemed a superfood","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-26T23:17:44.935158Z","entity":"article","guid":"d419e8a4-85c9-4762-9d0a-61ab0874482f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T04:21:06.75178Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355541},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","_id":"6267dfc21f4b7b4f15414767","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Dubbed the \"food of kings\", the unassuming green gloop called molokhia was once outlawed in Egypt because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's easy to swallow, so Egyptian mothers feed their babies on it after nursing,\" remarked Emad Farag, an employee at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marriott.com.au\u002Fhotels\u002Ftravel\u002Fcaixr-the-st-regis-cairo\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe St. Regis Cairo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as I slurped another spoonful of the mysterious moss-coloured soup. Of all the things I'd imagined I'd be dining on in Cairo's swankiest new hotel, \"posh baby food\" was not it. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut this uniquely gummy concoction \u003Cem\u003Eis no ordinary baby food. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EPronounced \"mo-lo-h-i-a\", but spelt innumerable ways, the unassuming green gloop was once the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers. Originating from the word \u003Cem\u003Emulukia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"that which belongs to the royals\", legend has it that a healing soup made from the molokhia plant nursed an Egyptian ruler back to health in the 10th Century. And so, a stew worthy of pharaohs was born, and a royal veggie was crowned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"As far back as you can trace the roots, people ate what was local, and what is local along the Nile is molokhia,\" food historian-cum-food health writer Michelle Berriedale-Johnson said. To this day, 95% of Egyptians live along the fabled river's life-giving banks and arc-shaped delta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia is a staple of every Egyptian kitchen","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"They were eating \u003Cem\u003Eful \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a hearty fava bean stew) and molokhia in pharaonic times, and they're eatingful and molokhia now, because that's what grows and what suits their diet and the climate,\" Berriedale-Johnson continued. \"You'll get leaves in some of the tomb paintings,\" she said of the saw-toothed leaf vegetable that belongs to the mallow family. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.ch\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FTreasure_Trove_of_Benefits_and_Variety_a.html?id=fIJ1DwAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=kp_read_button&hl=en&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETreasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table: A Fourteenth-Century Egyptian Cookbook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, author Nawal Nasrallah writes: \"The ancient Egyptians left no culinary recipes, but food remains from their tombs and coffin murals, that depict baking and other food-related activities, testify to the sophisticated level of their cuisine… These depictions also reveal the abundance of their produce such as Jew's mallow (mulukhiyya).\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite its plentiful supply, molokhia wasn't always available to the masses. According to folklore, the Caliph of Cairo (one of Egypt's rulers from the 10th Century Fatimid dynasty) outlawed consumption of the viscous soup because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect on women.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The molokhia plant grows along the Nile is sold at markets in Egypt","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo longer the preserve of pharaohs, these days molokhia is a staple of every Egyptian kitchen. While the official national dish is \u003Cem\u003Ekoshary\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a vegetarian medley of rice, chickpeas, macaroni and lentils) most Egyptians consider molokhia to be the country's emblematic meal. The earthy and grassy flavoured at-home dish is ordinarily eaten in the evening – paired with rice, bread or meat. However, some purists (and children) will consume molokhia neat, as a lunchtime soup. It's also a regular fixture on the menus of no-frills Egyptian restaurants like Cairo's El Prince on Talaat Harb Street.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Molokhia's for the rich and the poor","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's not an expensive vegetable,\" Farag said. \"Molokhia's for the rich and the poor.\" In Aswan's Sharia as-Souq, I queued alongside a construction worker, bank manager and taxi driver to buy bunches of it from a rusty wheelbarrow manned by Mahmoud. The 15-year-old market vendor told me he sells 110 EGP ($7) of molokhia daily, harvested on his family's one-hectare plot in nearby \u003Cem\u003EAbu El\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E-\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EReesh.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world\"\u003EThe world's best falafel?\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170323-the-deadly-dish-people-love-to-eat\"\u003EThe deadly dish people love to eat\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200329-bahariya-and-farafra-egypts-bizarre-desert-landscape\"\u003EEgypt's bizarre desert landscape\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELuckier stallholders get to shelter from the stifling sun under rainbow parasols lining the bazaar's seven blocks, which run parallel to the Nile. I followed my nose to Al Reda spice store on Saad Zaghloul Street, where burlap sacks overflowed with dried hibiscus flowers, cumin and dried molokhia. The store's third-generation owner Moustafa Mohammed told me that while his ancestors made\u003Cem\u003Emolokhia nashfa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which uses dried versus fresh leaves, he mops up his molokhia with baladi (Egypt's ancient answer to pita).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Moustafa Mohammed, who sells dried molokhia, is Al Reda spice store's owner","imageOrientation":"portrait","pullQuote":"Moustafa Mohammed, who sells dried molokhia, is Al Reda spice store's owner\np09r4dc2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFamily traditions and geography dictate how and what is eaten with molokhia. In coastal cities like Alexandria, locals devour \u003Cem\u003Emolokhia bel gambary\u003C\u002Fem\u003E with shrimps. Meanwhile, in the country's rural hinterland, it's paired with poached rabbit – a meat of the privileged few in ancient Egypt. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETarek Helmy – a semi-retired consultant from Cairo – folds the green gloop into rice, as his father did.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Even the eating of molokhia can be different from one house to another,\" Helmy told me over a lavish lunch at his home in a gated community on Cairo's fringes. The invitation came about after a serendipitous meeting with one of Helmy's close friends in Luxor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHelmy is one of a growing number of upper middle-class Egyptians who've traded Cairo's relentless din and dust for greened suburbia. Despite having deep pockets, he still delights in eating the slimy soup twice a week. \"Good molokhia sticks to the rice rather than separating into a watery pool on the plate,\" he explained. \"I even flew my mother over to Dubai, when I lived there, to teach my cook how to make molokhia!\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The makhrata, a mezzaluna-like utensil was created specifically for shredding molokhia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStepping into Helmy's spotless kitchen, I watched as his cook (also named Tarek), worked up a sweat rocking an arched blade to and fro over fresh molokhia leaves. Known as a \u003Cem\u003Emakhrata, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe mezzaluna-like utensil was created specifically for shredding molokhia. It's a laborious task, which, it transpires, is key to molokhia's uniquely mucilaginous (gum-like) texture – one that has tourists either loving or loathing the dish. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those who can stomach the slime, their gut and waistline will thank them later. \"It (molokhia) has all kinds of good digestive virtues,\" Berriedale-Johnson said. A recent study published in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fabs\u002Fpii\u002FS0378874120301756\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJournal of Ethnopharmacology\u003C\u002Fa\u003E reveals that its leaves can even prevent gut inflammation and obesity. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA superfood without the cult following or jacked-up prices, molokhia is packed with Vitamin C, E, potassium, iron and fibre. \"It [molokhia] also contains certain antioxidant carotenoids and antioxidant elements, making a well-rounded and highly beneficial addition to your diet,\" Cairo-based child nutritionist Mai Amer told me of the nutritional powerhouse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tarek Helmy (here, with a friend) eats molokhia twice a week with rice","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack in the kitchen, I joined Tarek over a sublime-smelling stove. \"If you hear the \u003Cem\u003Etsas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a sizzle), you're doing it right,\" he said, ladling the molokhia into a simmering pan of garlic, ground coriander and melted ghee. \"I add in some tomato for tartness and sweetness.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch like molokhia's regional variations, chefs have their own riffs on the recipe. Mohammed Fatih, a chef at Aswan's Makka Restaurant (located on Abtal el Tahrir Street) revealed, \"My secret is to cook a broth base made with bones from the inside of a cow's tail and simmer it for three hours.\" The freshly-minced molokhia is then slowly added to the broth. Meanwhile, Luxor-born head chef Hussein Mustafa (who works on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sanctuaryretreats.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESanctuary Retreat's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E trio of luxury Nile river yachts) asserts the importance of provenance. \"The best molokhia is grown amongst sugar cane fields. That's why molokhia is better in the south (of Egypt) than the north.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you hear the tsas (a sizzle), you're doing it right","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFayoum, which lies 100km south-west of Cairo in Middle Egypt is a lush oasis, where desert dunes give way to swaying palms, natural sulphur springs and endless green fields. Pharaoh Amenemhat III (1818-1770 BCE) eyed up the area's agricultural potential, and 3,500 years later, Fayoum's glut of molokhia farmers continue to work its fertile land. Wall-to-wall sunshine and the well-drained soil are perfect conditions for molokhia, which grows here from May to August in as little as 60 days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe two-metre-high, super-green is also cultivated on Cairo's dusty, abandoned roof terraces. Malik Tag, head of smart farming at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fschaduf.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchaduf\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, gave me a tour of the social enterprise's rooftop headquarters (located in the upmarket neighbourhood of \u003Cem\u003EMaadi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E),where new urban garden concepts are being trialled. Molokhia was one of the first vegetables to be grown as part of Schaduf's community-led hydroponic farming projects, he said. \"The initiative(s) enabled low-income families to sell leafy greens (including molokhia) to the city's high-end supermarkets.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEleven kilometres away in the outlying city of Giza, I met with 27-year-old receptionist Mimi Melad, a self-proclaimed stickler for tradition when it comes to molokhia. \"I always cook with fresh (molokhia) from a stall on Al-Haram Street near my home,\" she said. \"And I do the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(pronounced \"\u003C\u002Fem\u003Echa-h'a\") every time,\" she continued, referring to an age-old cooking ritual still practised today by some Egyptian women. Believed to make the dish more flavoursome, the cook leaned over the steaming molokhia, mouthing the words \"\u003Cem\u003Eshahe't el mulukhiyah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003Ewhile making an audible gasp, before clamping the pan's lid shut.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My mother, grandmother and her mother all did the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" Melad said, brimming with pride. Something tells me the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't\u003C\u002Fem\u003E will be around in another four generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-03T17:06:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A superfood fit for a pharaoh","headlineShort":"The vegetable outlawed by royalty","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"26.8349263","longitude":"26.3814652","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Dubbed the \"food of kings\", the unassuming green gloop called molokhia was once outlawed in Egypt because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect.","summaryShort":"The unassuming green gloop was once the \"food of kings\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-02T17:27:12.915103Z","entity":"article","guid":"01cd7f09-3422-48b4-a167-92e1e0b9f972","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:31:55.602601Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355541},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood","_id":"6267dfcb1f4b7b521a4c3cd6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Japanese have long hailed natto as a superfood – but its ammonia-like smell and mucus-like consistency make the fermented soybean dish a turnoff for many.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery day without fail, my 65-year-old mother prepares a dish that many people would say looks, smells and tastes revolting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Nattō is very stinky. You definitely notice the smell.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENattō is a traditional Japanese food made from fermented soybeans. It has an ammonia-like smell and mucus-like consistency that makes it polarising, even among people who grow up with it. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchosa.nifty.com\u002Fgourmet\u002Fchosa_report_A20170929\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA 2017 survey by Nifty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Japanese internet service provider, found that only about 62% of Japanese people actually enjoy nattō. It also revealed that 13% actively dislike the taste. Regardless, many eat it anyway because of the health benefits.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Nattō is \u003Cem\u003Every\u003C\u002Fem\u003E stinky. You definitely notice the smell,” said Yuki Gomi, a Japanese chef who runs the cooking school \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yukiskitchen.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYuki’s Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in London. “But I always have it in my fridge.” She says it’s a staple in her home, the same way that cheese and yoghurt is readily available in many Western households.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Japanese have long hailed nattō as a superfood and believe that consumption is linked to improved blood flow and reduced risk of stroke – factors that are particularly appealing in a country that is home to one of the world’s oldest populations. My mother often boasts that nattō keeps her blood “\u003Cem\u003Esara sara\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” (silky). Japanese news site \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoranews24.com\u002F2020\u002F02\u002F01\u002Fa-pack-of-natto-fermented-japanese-soybeans-a-day-keeps-the-death-away-according-to-study\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESoraNews24\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has gone as far as to declare that \"a pack of natto a day keeps the death away”. Hitoshi Shirakawa, professor of nutrition and food science at Tohoku University's Graduate School of Agricultural Science in Sendai, muses this is “probably true”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe cites \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bmj.com\u002Fcontent\u002F368\u002Fbmj.m34\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea long-term study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published in the British Medical Journal earlier this year: researchers at the National Cancer Center in Tokyo found that men and women who ate fermented soy-based foods like nattō on a daily basis reduced their risk of dying from a stroke or heart attack by 10%. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Fermented soybean foods are less likely to lose [nutritional] components during processing, which is considered to be one of the reasons for the clear association between nattō consumption and [a reduced] risk of cardiovascular diseases,” Shirakawa said. Those nutritional components include plenty of protein, iron and dietary fibre, which have positive effects on blood pressure and weight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENattō might even help people feel and look younger. One serving (roughly 40-50g) has the same levels of vitamin K as the daily requirement set by the Japanese government and may help prevent osteoporosis. Nattō is also packed with vitamin B6 and vitamin E, which Shirakawa says boosts cell turnover and slows skin aging.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200519-japans-forgotten-indigenous-people\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's forgotten people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200629-where-barbecue-culture-began\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere barbecue culture began\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170808-the-truth-about-japanese-tempura\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe truth about Japanese tempura\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut fermented soybeans were an integral part of the Japanese diet long before its nutritional benefits were understood. Dr Samuel Yamashita, professor of Japanese history at Pomona College in Claremont, California, says the food was first introduced to Japan from China during the Nara period (710-784AD).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The historical record in Japan suggests that although nattō was introduced in the 700s, it became popular among both aristocrats and warriors in the Kamakura period (1192-1333) and became important, together with tofu, in the Buddhist-inspired vegetarian cuisine that emerged in the succeeding Muromachi period (1338-1573),” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYamashita says nattō evolved into a staple in the Japanese diet by the Edo period (1603-1867), when it appeared in cookbooks and started being prepared in the home. Soybeans were soaked in water, boiled or steamed, then blended with the bacterium \u003Cem\u003EBacillus subtilis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. They were then wrapped in straw and left to ferment for about a day, depending on the season and temperature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When you add nattō to your recipes, it manages to add both rich and mellow notes to the food","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday nattō involves far less preparation and is available in convenience stores and supermarkets throughout Japan. A set of nattō, typically containing three small polystyrene foam containers, costs about 100 to 300 yen (£0.75 to £2.25). Each container has a single serving of nattō and tiny packets of \u003Cem\u003Etare\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a soy sauce blend) and \u003Cem\u003Ekarashi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (hot mustard).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo prepare nattō, you simply stir the three items and then pour the sticky concoction over a bowl of steamed white rice. Other ingredients commonly used to spruce up the dish are chopped \u003Cem\u003Enegi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (spring onions) and raw egg. When you lift your chopsticks to eat the end result, each bite is trailed by sticky strings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Japan, it’s most common to eat nattō for breakfast. My mother isn’t particularly fond of the taste, but consumes a bowl each morning, solely for its nutritional benefits. Akemi Fukuta, a jewellery salesperson in Tokyo’s Ginza district, says she eats it several times a week because she finds it both healthy and delicious. Gomi likes to make nattō for her four-year-old daughter’s dinner and says it’s a godsend for busy mothers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome people, like Mayuko Suzuki, have an entirely different level of appreciation for the simple dish. She eats nattō two to three times a day and has made a career out of being a “nattō influencer”. Known on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fchannel\u002FUCRvE_HMTo9d3bEdXR49JvUg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYouTube\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fnatto_musume_\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as Nattō Musume (Nattō Girl), Suzuki promotes restaurants serving unusual nattō-inspired dishes and shares her own recipes containing the slimy soybeans. She regularly shares photos of dubious combinations like nattō pasta, nattō pizza and even nattō gelato.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I like the unique taste that the fermentation brings,” she explained. “When you add nattō to your recipes, it manages to add both rich and mellow notes to the food.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGiven her enthusiasm, it’s no surprise that Suzuki has made three visits to \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sendainatto.jp\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESendai-ya\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an all-you-can-eat nattō restaurant in Tokyo. For about 900 yen (£6.75), customers can devour several variations on the dish, including edamame nattō, \u003Cem\u003Egoma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sesame) nattō and \u003Cem\u003Ewakame\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (seaweed) nattō. The business also sells an unlikely dessert: nattō doughnuts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESendai-ya president Itō Hidefumi is the third generation of his family to take over the business, which was established in the Yamanashi prefecture in 1961. He says Sendai-ya expanded to Japan’s capital as a response to customer demand. There are also several vending machines containing Sendai-ya’s nattō products in the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It’s very rewarding to take over a family business that provides people with such a healthy product,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite its reputation as a superfood, however, nattō has failed to gain popularity outside of Japan. It has, however, attracted enough attention to end up in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdisgustingfoodmuseum.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDisgusting Food Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Malmö, Sweden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The two things that most people find problematic with nattō are the sliminess and the smell,” said museum director Andreas Ahrens. “It does contain bacteria that’s also found in dirt, so it has that earthy kind of smell to it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What we find disgusting and delicious is very cultural","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Disgusting Food Museum features nattō alongside dishes like \u003Cem\u003Ecuy\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (roasted guinea pigs from Peru) and \u003Cem\u003Ecasu marzu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (maggot-infested cheese from Sardinia). The exhibit also includes American snacks like Pop-Tarts and Twinkies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“What we find disgusting and delicious is very cultural,” Ahrens said. “It all depends on what we grew up with and what we are conditioned to like. Something like nattō is a very good example of that.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGomi understands that sentiment all too well. She remembers being hesitant to include a recipe for nattō \u003Cem\u003Emaki\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sushi rolls) in her 2013 book Sushi at Home: The Beginner’s Guide to Perfect, Simple Sushi. “I was scared that people wouldn’t like such stinky stuff. I was almost embarrassed,” she admitted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Gomi says that she’s since seen an uptick in students who come to her cooking classes and want to know more about nattō.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“More people are traveling to Japan and staying in \u003Cem\u003Eryokan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (traditional Japanese inns) that serve nattō for breakfast,” she said. “They come back and tell me they had some strange, sticky stuff… some of them hate it. I don’t blame them. But some of them say they quite like it and want to know where they can buy it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGomi says it makes her hopeful that her non-Japanese peers will come to appreciate nattō as much as she does.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I'd love to see it more widely available in places like a farmer's market,” she said. “There is certainly a trend towards fermented food [and drink], such as kimchi, kefir and kombucha. It feels like nattō’s time is just around the corner.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBBC Travel’s\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwell-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E Well World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a global take on wellness that explores different ways that cultures the world over strive for a healthy lifestyle.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-28T20:54:34Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Japan’s most polarising superfood?","headlineShort":"A superfood to 'keep death away'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Japanese have long hailed natto as a superfood – but its ammonia-like smell and mucus-like consistency make the fermented soybean dish a turnoff for many.","summaryShort":"Its ammonia-like smell and mucus-like consistency makes it polarising","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:52:49.364466Z","entity":"article","guid":"8cc07d3c-44e1-4beb-b29c-052d72902eb9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:13:18.185473Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355541},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood","_id":"6267df881f4b7b26033455c3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmark-eveleigh"],"bodyIntro":"During Covid-19, people once again began to latch onto the benefits of moringa, a tree that's a highly nutritious food, medicine and magical talisman all rolled into one.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Look at how fine those leaves are,\" said Dika Nanta, pointing up to the waving branches of a spindly tree. \"They're so wispy that at first glance it's hard to imagine why Balinese people sometimes call this tree 'the broomstick of the gods'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe moringa tree (\u003Cem\u003EMoringa oleifera\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) we were looking at really was quite unremarkable – less statuesque than the rambutan tree nearby and far less imposing than the mango trees on the other side of the road. Yet moringa (\u003Cem\u003Edaun kelor\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Bahasa Indonesia) was once believed to have such intense magical properties that a simple sprig of this \"broomstick of the gods\" would be used to brush the evil spirits away from the resting place of a deceased person.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENanta, who graduated from Udayana University with a bachelor's degree in landscape architecture, grew up in a village near Ubud (considered Bali's spiritual heartland) and recalls eating moringa regularly as a child, most often boiled in a spicy stew. More recently, in his official capacity as \"Botanical Guru\" at the new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rafflesbali.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERaffles Bali\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, he has become fascinated by both the science and traditional beliefs behind what he refers to as \"Bali's tree of life\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Moringa was traditionally a common part of the Balinese diet,\" he said. \"It began to fall into disuse long before modern science latched onto the spectacular nutritional benefits of what is now known in the West as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fhealth-48138772\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea superfood\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F302558538_Potential_uses_of_Moringa_oleifera_and_an_examination_of_antibiotic_efficacy_conferred_by_M_oleifera_seed_and_leaf_extracts_using_crude_extraction_techniques_available_to_underserved_indigenous_popula\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2013 study on traditional uses of \u003Cem\u003EMoringa oleifera\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published in International Journal of Phytotherapy Research, the plant's dried leaves contain seven times the Vitamin C of oranges, nine times more protein than yoghurt, 10 times more Vitamin A than carrots and 15 times the potassium of bananas. It's thought to have 17 times more calcium than milk and 25 times more iron than spinach.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c03pwq"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETraditionally, most Balinese family compounds were protected with a moringa tree. It was a highly nutritious food, medicine and a magical talisman all rolled into one. Over the course of recent decades, it came to be considered as merely peasant food – and as part of old mystical superstitions. However, during the Covid-19 pandemic, as the workforce of Bali's crashed tourism industry returned to live off the land, people once again began to latch onto the benefits of the marvellous tree that grows like a weed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHaving heard about moringa's nutritional benefits, my wife and I started eating it on a daily basis during the pandemic. It grows freely in the west Balinese village where we lived, and we quickly realised that it was incredibly versatile as a cooking ingredient.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEaten alone, moringa leaves are reminiscent of peppery spinach but Balinese cooks typically add a variety of freshly pounded local herbs and spices to the simmering vegetables to serve as a leafy stew. We dropped raw leaves into smoothies; cooked them in omelettes, soups, stews and curries; and chopped them to create delicious, peppery seasoning for egg mayonnaise sandwiches and salads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI planted two 6ft cuttings and within a year and a half they were taller than our two-storey house. Much of our fence line became a living, edible fence of moringa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite the fact that the plant is freely available almost anywhere on the island, you'd rarely, if ever, see it as an ingredient in \u003Cem\u003Ewarungs\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (local eateries), let alone on a tourist menu. However, a few chefs, perhaps tempted by a nutritious and flavourful ingredient that is freely available, are reviving the tradition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMoringa features on the ever-changing menu at the increasingly famous tourist spot \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Frastacafemedewi\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERasta Café Medewi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the west coast surf-town of Medewi. \"I try to cook whatever local produce is in season and moringa is almost indispensable in that it's available year-round,\" said Nafisha Dewi, the café's chef, as she prepared soup made with moringa leaves, pumpkin, aromatic ginger (known sometimes as sand ginger), garlic, shallots, candlenut, chilli, coriander, lemongrass and coconut milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c03pwd"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Bali is predominantly Hindu, this western side of the island also has a large Muslim population. Dewi was Hindu until she married her husband Rasta and entered the Muslim faith, but both recall moringa being a favourite family dish during their childhoods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We used it not only as food but also often as medicine,\" Dewi explained as I tucked into a second helping of her delicious soup. \"My mother would treat our bruises with ground moringa leaves mixed with salt.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's so pure that just a handful of these tiny leaves can cancel the effect of black magic","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"That's right, we still also mash the leaves to put on cuts,\" Rasta interrupted. As a hired driver, he often visits other Indonesian islands. \"The only people I know who don't eat moringa are the West Javanese,\" he recalled. \"They believe so strongly in the magical cleansing power of moringa that they use it to wash dead bodies before burial. They think it's very strange that we Balinese eat it!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBoth Dewi and Rasta also agreed that witches and sorcerers – aspects of Balinese belief that, even today, remain very real – can never eat moringa: \"Anyone who's involved in black magic must avoid the tree at all costs,\" Dewi said. \"It's so pure that just a handful of these tiny leaves can cancel the effect of black magic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile native to northern India, 13 species of moringa are found throughout the world, from Bangladesh to Burkina Faso to Brazil, where they are used as traditional cures for everything from conjunctivitis to gonorrhoea to malaria. The tree is known in English as \"drumstick tree\" (due to the shape of the seed pods) or \"horseradish tree\" (as its roots taste similar to horseradish), but the fact that it's also commonly referred to as \"mother's best friend\" and the \"never die tree\" would seem to imply that its benefits were not entirely unknown to the British.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf there is one disadvantage to moringa, it's the high nitrogen content in the leaves. Although this makes them excellent fertiliser, fresh leaves begin to break down within minutes of being picked, which means that distribution is really only viable in dehydrated form. While gardeners in northern climes have lately been experimenting with growing this hardy plant, it is most often available only as relatively expensive powder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c03pw8"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We're very lucky to have easy access to fresh moringa on Bali,\" said Australian-born chef Dom Hammond. As research and development chef at the island's iconic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpotatohead.co\u002Fseminyak\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPotato Head complex\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, she has experimented widely with the use of local ingredients in plant-based fine dining. \"One amazing thing about moringa though is that apparently it doesn't lose any nutrients in the drying process, so moringa powder is equally nutritious. It seems that this plant could be a solution to food shortages and nutrition all over the world.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKnown for its innovative approach to protecting the environment, Potato Head serves \"zero-waste\" cocktails (enhanced with offcuts and trimmings from fruit used in the kitchen) with moringa salt; while the menu at the complex's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kaum.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKaum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant boasts a Central Javanese soup with moringa leaves, snake gourd and fresh coconut cooked in turmeric broth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There's so much you can do with the leaves, but I've been experimenting with other parts of the plant too,\" Hammond said. \"Once the flowers are dried you can even fry them as a delicious alternative to mushrooms.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, the Balinese use every part of the tree. While the leaves are most commonly boiled for soup or \u003Cem\u003Ejamu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a medicinal pick-me-up drink), the sword-like seed pods can be stir-fried or used in a stew. It's said that the root is poisonous but that a small section brewed as tea is a remedy for intestinal worms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It seems that this plant could be a solution to food shortages and nutrition all over the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd perhaps because Balinese farmers noticed that the tree seemed to be almost impregnable to parasites and insects, the bark is often chopped and mixed with uncooked rice, aromatic ginger and water to create a traditional skin-enhancing body scrub.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When I was a kid, my grandma used to cut the moringa bark into bite-size pieces,\" Nanta told me, \"then she'd chew it into a paste and rub it over our skin.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c03pw6"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBalinese chef I Made Tantra Wijaya recalls the same remedy. However, these days, with infinitely more finesse, he incorporates moringa into the raw-food menu at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffivelementsbali.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFivelements Retreat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Wijaya's colleague Chef Ni Putu Yuliastuty now harvests moringa in the retreat's kitchen-garden every day and has become an expert at using it in smoothies, vegetable-based green juices, soups and salads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Even though we grew up with this plant as part of our diet, I never realised it was so versatile,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's peppery so it adds good flavour to anything,\" Wijaya added, as the pair worked together in the kitchen. \"Sometimes with natural medicines we say, 'more bitter more better'. In the old days, Balinese women would wean their babies off the breast by smearing juice from moringa leaves around their nipples. Times have changed though. These days they're more likely to use toothpaste.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt seems that there are potentially endless uses for moringa and, while the Balinese are steadily reviving a few of the most time-proven, it's amazing to realise that the rest of the world is yet to open its eyes to the full potential of the \"tree of life\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EForgotten Foods\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eoffers hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life though cooking and cultivation.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-22T01:46:01Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The return of Bali's lost 'superfood'","headlineShort":"The return of Bali's lost 'superfood'","image":["p0c03px1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-8.409518","longitude":"115.188919","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6267dfc91f4b7b565656c4b5"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0c03px1"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"During Covid-19, people once again began to latch onto the benefits of moringa, a tree that's a highly nutritious food, medicine and magical talisman all rolled into one.","summaryShort":"It was once believed to have intense magical properties","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fwellness"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-20T20:25:26.117812Z","entity":"article","guid":"96f7b10c-bd70-416e-a9e5-9b8883e219ff","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-26T01:41:55.202271Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbali","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Findonesia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_indonesia_bali_asia_indonesia_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355541},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands","_id":"6267df971f4b7b304424837e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"‘People have not come to this world to be on their own, nor to make desserts on their own’","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWinters are dear to 53-year-old Azemina Ahmedbegović. Not because she is a big fan of snow or the cold, but because when she was growing up in the central Bosnian city of Visoko, this is when important social events would take place. These were special occasions, where friends and family would come together for \u003Cem\u003Ećetenija\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a traditional Bosnian dessert made of sugar, flour and lemon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EĆetenija is simple in ingredients but complicated in making. It requires multiple pairs of hands to pull the sugar dough through roasted flour, turning it into a wool-like paste. Coordinated teamwork is crucial; one wrong move and the paste can easily snap.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat is why at traditional Bosnian ‘sitting parties’, called \u003Cem\u003Esijelo,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E like the ones hosted by Ahmedbegović’s parents, guests would participate in the making of ćetenija. Some made the paste and pulled it; or played traditional music, sang or danced. Others cheered for ćetenija-makers or teased them,or did nothing but eat it once it was made. But they all would have a lot of fun. “It was easier to get through winters that way,” Ahmedbegović recalled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181003-the-secret-story-behind-turkish-delight\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secret story behind Turkish delight\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170802-the-dessert-thats-blocked-at-borders\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Palestinian dessert few can enjoy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190121-a-chinese-sweet-thats-a-homophone-for-reunion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe sweet name despised by a president\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMany winters have now passed, and Ahmedbegović now lives in the city of Gračanica in north-eastern Bosnia, where she has started her own family. In the meantime, sijelos and group ćetenija-making activities have been replaced by TV and the internet in most Bosnian households. People who still organise sijelos, like Ahmedbegović’s sister in Visoko, live far from her. Her new friends and colleagues in Gračanica didn’t know much about ćetenija as it’s not a common practice in that part of the country. So Ahmedbegović decided to teach them how to do it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFirst, she explained, the flour is roasted until lightly browned. Then, sugar and lemon juice are heated together, and, when caramelised, shaped into a ring by hands greased with oil. There should be just enough lemon to give the paste the right consistency, but not so much as to make it break. While the sugar paste is still elastic, it is placed onto the roasted flour and shaped it into a thinner ring that’s repeatedly pulled until it becomes a fine floss. It is usually done by three to six people, mostly women, who sit around a \u003Cem\u003Esofra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a round, low table. The room must be cold so that the paste can be ‘flossed’ without breaking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We took it from our homes out to the streets","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe process can take hours, so team members who get tired are often replaced by others. Meanwhile, other guests drink Bosnian coffee and sing traditional Bosnian songs. Once it has cooled down, ćetenija\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ewhich tastes like starchy candy floss, is cut in small pieces and served on small plates to the guests.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe fun ritual easily made its way to Ahmedbegović’s friends’ hearts, which convinced her to organise public performances of ćetenija-making through the ‘\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gracanickokeranje.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGračaničko keranje\u003C\u002Fa\u003E’ women’s association she runs in Gračanica. “We took it from our homes out to the streets,” said Ahmedbegović, happy to keep the tradition alive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlong with Ahmedbegović’s association, more and more organisations across the country run public events to showcase the beauty of this plain yet tasty ‘Bosnian candy’. Performers usually wear traditional clothes and play \u003Cem\u003Esevdah \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(traditional folk music) during the shows in order to preserve the ceremony of ćetenija-making as part of Bosnian heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECultural association ‘4T’ from Tarevci in Bosnia’s north-east is one such organisation. Mustafa Mustajbegović, the association president, is proud to have learned the skill of pulling sugar when he was a young man at sijelo parties in his home town of Tarevci. Now 63, Mustajbegović is passing on the tradition to younger generations through public ćetenija-making performances as well as team competitions, which brings a supplementary element of fun. His association has so far hosted 15 ‘Ćetenijada’ competitions in Tarevci and organised three of them in the capital of Sarajevo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe winners are those whose ćetenija has the thinnest thread. But it’s not so much about winning as it is about socialising. “It’s about how it’s made,” Mustajbegović said, explaining that his competitions include a ‘Maxi ćetenijas’ version, which must be made by 10 to 12 people. In theory, ćetenija can be pulled by a single person, but “people have not come to this world to be on their own, nor to make desserts on their own,” Mustajbegović added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn his book The Bosnian Cook: Traditional Cuisine in Bosnia and Herzegovina, author Alija Laki&scaron;ić put ćetenija in the ‘\u003Cem\u003Ejela za sijela’\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (‘meals for social gatherings’) section. And when you watch how it’s made, ćetenija’s thread-like appearance being pulled by multiple hands is reminiscent of a wire carrying connections among people. Journalist Pavle Pavlović even \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oslobodjenje.ba\u002Fdosjei\u002Fteme\u002Fzicara-i-cetenija\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewrote\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that ‘ćetenija was the first example of a social network, connecting people before Facebook’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Ćetenija makes people connected to each other,” agreed Amna Sofić, president of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpreporod.zenica\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBosniak Cultural Community Preporod Zenica\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another organisation that manages occasional ćetenija-making events. Friendship, and even romance, is at its core.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the past, when the tradition was widely popular, young men and women would often flirt during ćetenija\u003Cem\u003E-\u003C\u002Fem\u003Emaking evenings. Young men would play pranks, such as putting a pinch of salt in the pot of sugar (which was usually cooling down in a separate room), to attract the attention of a girl they liked. In more advanced love cases, couples would guard the pot of sugar together, taking the opportunity to be alone. “You are made by beautiful girls so they could gather their dear boys. Naughty boys have salted the sugar, and treated themselves,” says one of the traditional Bosnian songs usually sung during ćetenija evenings. (\u003Cem\u003E“Tebe su pravile lijepe djevojke da bi okupile svoje drage momke. Momci alčak bili - &scaron;ećer posolili, posolili pa se sami počastili.”\u003C\u002Fem\u003E)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough ćetenija is a beloved dessert in Bosnia, most of the rest of the world has not yet heard of it. That’s because, despite its undeniable charm, Bosnian authorities don’t do much to promote the country’s cultural heritage, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbalkans.aljazeera.net\u002Fvijesti\u002Fnematerijalno-kulturno-naslijede-bogatstvo-koje-se-mora-cuvati\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to a 2018 Al Jazeera report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The national preliminary list of intangible cultural heritage, which is a prerequisite for Unesco nomination, doesn’t contain any traditional cuisine. Some associations, such as Bosniak Cultural Community Preporod Zenica, are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftntportal.ba\u002F2018\u002F12\u002Fsnimljen-i-dokumentarni-film-o-ceteniji-poslastica-bosanskohercegovacke-tradicije-foto\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eproposing that the Bosnian government\u003C\u002Fa\u003E puts ćetenija on the preliminary list.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut for it to happen “a lot of effort, knowledge and awareness of one’s own cultural identity is needed,” according to retired university professor Enes Kujundžić, author of the book Sofra: Traditional Bosnian cuisine from cultural perspective.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The role of cultural institutions, such as museums, libraries, institutes for the protection of heritage, and others, is particularly important,” Kujundžić said. “That is, however, missing in Bosnia and that is a problem.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA governmental lack of interest might stand in the way of ćetenija’s international glory. But as long as there are memories of old times, the tradition will be carried on by individuals and local associations. And ćetenija will keep connecting people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-ritual-of-eating\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Ritual of Eating\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that explores interesting culinary rituals and food etiquette around the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-02-07T15:15:05Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Bosnia’s intriguing dessert made by 12 hands","headlineShort":"The dessert you can’t make alone","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"‘People have not come to this world to be on their own, nor to make desserts on their own’","summaryShort":"Coordinated teamwork is crucial; one wrong move and it can easily snap","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:28:50.524042Z","entity":"article","guid":"8cefc27e-699b-4e13-8bbf-7de9c95db0ae","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:43:57.655473Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355542},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak","_id":"6267df751f4b7b1f4a55e0d2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Boasting the US' largest Bosnian population, St Louis, Missouri, has been shaped by the subtle but abundant influence of a community not found in such numbers outside Europe.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe retro sign on top of the two-storey brick building in St Louis, Missouri, reads \"Lemmons Fine Food\" with a giant arrow pointing towards the door. At night, the sign's light casts red and green reflections on the windows, diverting attention from a mural of a can of beer covering the right side of the building.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKnown for ice-cold beer and heaping plates of fried chicken, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lemmonsrestaurant.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELemmons\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is inextricably linked to St Louis' history, having been a fixture on this rough-around-the-edges stretch of Gravois Avenue in South City since the 1940s. And though beer remains on tap, when the Grbic family took ownership in 2014, a new history began: one with Bosnians deeply embedded into the fabric, changing the landscape of what a restaurant – and a city – can become.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFull of small, cosy brick houses packed tightly on narrow streets, the landscape in the South City neighbourhood known as Bevo Mill had shifted long before Sulejman and Ermina Grbic owned Lemmons. It was still shifting in 1998, when they purchased what is now \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.grbicrestaurant.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGrbic\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – St Louis' longest-running Bosnian restaurant – just a few streets away. At that time, a dwindling population had left South City's business district a ghost town, with boarded-up windows and little hope that anyone would pump much-needed life into its economy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the revival came when Bosnian refugees began settling in St Louis after fleeing the former Yugoslavia during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fevent\u002FBosnian-War\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBosnian War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which lasted from 1992 to 1995, took the lives of an estimated 100,000 people and displaced more than two million more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMany Bosnians settled in Bevo Mill so that they could be closer to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iistl.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInternational Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an immigrant support organisation that, along with Catholic Charities USA, sponsored refugees, helping them learn English and find jobs and housing. St Louis' lower cost of living and support mechanisms allowed for greater success, and many Bosnians living in other parts of the country moved here too, for better opportunities. Today, St Louis boasts the US' largest Bosnian population, making up an estimated 50,000 to 70,000 of the city's 2.8 million metropolitan population.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Man cooking Balkan food in truck","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a result of this influx, says Ben Moore, professor emeritus and senior researcher at the Center for Bosnian Studies at Fontbonne University, \"the Bosnian community has had a subtle, but abundant influence, which has become deeply integrated into the fabric of St Louis.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Bosnian community has had a subtle, but abundant influence, which has become deeply integrated into the fabric of St Louis","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe most straightforward way to experience that influence is by exploring Little Bosnia in Bevo Mill. In the 1990s, when an area bank gave loans to Bosnian refugees with no credit, Little Bosnia grew into Bosnian-owned butcher shops, markets, coffee shops, auto shops, restaurants, trucking companies, an insurance agency and, until a few years ago, the largest US-based Bosnian language newspaper in the country. Across from the Chamber of Commerce, you'll also find an ornate wood and stone fountain replica of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sarajevo-tourism.com\u002Fbascarsija-and-sebilj-fountain\"\u003Ethe Sebilj in Sarajevo's Ba&scaron;čar&scaron;ija Square\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe couscous meal built on generosity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe dessert you can't make alone\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210830-the-chef-preserving-gullah-culture-through-storytelling\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe chef preserving Gullah culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot far past the Sebilj, you can pick up \u003Cem\u003Ehurma&scaron;ice\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – butter cookies soaked in sugar syrup till they become soft as cake – at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fprofile.php?id=100063696814651\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EZlatne Kapi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E bakery and cafe; then visit Iriskic Brothers butcher shop next door, where you will find lamb and steak along with international grocery items. Europa Market, a block away, sells European chocolates, beverages, fruit preserves and \u003Cem\u003Eajvar,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a condiment made of peppers and aubergine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDown the road at Lemmons (which is temporarily closed due to pandemic-related challenges), Senada Grbic – a Cordon Bleu-trained chef and one of the Grbic's children – stayed true to the restaurant's fried chicken history by adding a Balkan twist: fried chicken schnitzel – buttermilk-brined chicken breast, pounded thin, then breaded and fried. Her pizza fusion – flatbread with the masterfully spiced \u003Cem\u003Ećevapi \u003C\u002Fem\u003Esausage, mozzarella and feta butter – is as creative as her chicken wings marinated in \u003Cem\u003Erakija,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E Bosnian plum brandy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few streets away at Grbic, Sulejman and Ermina serve up Bosnian comfort food like \u003Cem\u003Etarhana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a Balkan soup made of sourdough noodles, ground beef and vegetables in a bright tomato broth; \u003Cem\u003Ećevapi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E tucked into tender pieces of the Bosnian bread \u003Cem\u003Elepinja\u003C\u002Fem\u003E; and plates of steaming \u003Cem\u003Esarma, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Emildly pickled cabbage leaves wrapped around meat and rice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Grbic is one of the key centres of Bosnian culture in St Louis,\" said Moore, who has dedicated his career to documenting Bosnian war stories so that history will not be lost. \"It's a restaurant as well as a music, graduation and wedding venue – having become a place where the Bosnian community has formed itself as such.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"St Louis' replica of the Sebilj in Sarajevo","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn this profoundly beautiful space, with intricate brickwork and high, wooden ceilings, there's a nod to the city's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gatewayarch.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGateway Arch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E everywhere you look. Sulejman was so captivated by St Louis' famed landmark – the country's tallest monument and the tallest arch in the world – when he first arrived in the 1970s that he incorporated arches into the restaurant design.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EErmina – known by everyone as \"Mama\" – has been running Grbic's kitchen since it opened in 2002, offering warmth and hospitality to homesick Bosnians as well as those in the community for whom the cuisine is new. Before the pandemic, she could be seen flitting about the 260-seat dining room, handing out hugs and cookies, making everyone feel like guests in her home. Her walnut biscuits, which she still makes every weekend, are delicate and tender, perfumed by spices so familiar they curl like a smile around your tongue. Each bite melts as quickly as powdered snow but leaves behind a feeling of profound comfort, which is the exact effect Mama has on everyone she meets. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"She is made of love and compassion,\" said Senada, who has taken the reins from the now-retired Mama and runs the kitchen at Grbic alongside her brother, Ermin, while Lemmons is on pause.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESulejman, who hired Bosnian carpenters and masons for Grbic's four-year construction, shares Mama's kindness. \"When refugees started arriving in the '90s, my dad would tell me we were going to the airport to look for people who don't have a place to live,\" Senada recalled, explaining that because of their established life in St Louis, having settled here in the 1980s as some of the first Bosnians in St Louis, her parents were well prepared to support new immigrants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESulejman would hold up a sign that read \"refugees welcome\", and when people would come home with him, Mama would cook day and night, all while going to her full-time job at 03:30 each morning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We had just four bedrooms and one bathroom, but at one time, there were 20 of us in that apartment,\" said Senada. \"We helped with translation and found people jobs, housing and doctor's appointments. One family would come through and move out, and people would call from Iowa and other places and ask if we'd accept them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe answer, of course, was always yes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Frontage of Lemmons restaurant in St Louis","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"In 1998, when Bosnian refugees who lived in Germany were told they had to go back, former US Secretary of State, Madeleine Albright, made arrangements for them to come to the US. By that point, St Louis had become an attractive destination for Bosnians,\" said Moore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEdo Nalic, who runs the nationally acclaimed \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.balkantreatbox.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBalkan Treat Box\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with his wife, American chef, Loryn Nalic, was living with his family in Germany after the Bosnian War and came to St Louis through Albright's arrangement. The couple started with a food truck that travelled across the city, introducing more people to Balkan cuisine and becoming its ambassadors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It would have been easier for me to cook anything else, but I chose this. It's the food I love to cook","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Right now, where we're at in food culture in [the US], Bosnian food is undiscovered, really,\" said Loryn. \"It's comforting and familiar, yet just different enough to be intriguing. After you eat it, you think about it and want to have it again. It would have been easier for me to cook anything else, but I chose this. It's the food I love to cook.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Bosnians patronise their community's restaurants, so too do non-Bosnian locals. Longtime restaurant critic Joe Bonwich so loved the Grbic family – and frequently wrote about the importance of their restaurant to St Louis – that when he passed away in 2017, his celebration of life was held in their restaurant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBonwich never wanted Little Bosnia to remain a secret. Its businesses are nondescript and scrappy – a part of the concrete jungle that is South City – and it can't compete with the fancy tree-lined streets full of boutiques and high-rises in other parts of St Louis. But if you wrote off this stretch of Gravois Avenue as just any other street, you'd be missing what Moore calls the subtle but abundant influence of a population not found in such numbers outside Europe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"To understand the influence is like peeling an onion,\" he said. \"The things Bosnians have brought us are very beautiful, like \u003Cem\u003Eburek \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eand the Sebilj, but beneath all that is tragedy. Therefore, the influence of Bosnians is complicated, and takes a while to understand. We haven't experienced what they've experienced, but they've changed us, and it has been infused into this city.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Front of Grbic restaurant in St Louis","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven still, there will never be a bowl of goulash that could ever take the place of home for the thousands of Bosnians in St Louis who lost everything in the war. There is nothing that can erase the unspeakable tragedies they witnessed and the profound sense of loss that follows them every day of their lives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Everybody lost someone, and everybody lost their country in the war,\" said Moore. \"To be able to create a new home in the face of such profound loss is the most remarkable thing I've ever witnessed in my entire life. It is an unbelievable testament to what Bosnians are capable of, and what human beings are capable of.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-17T14:05:08.345Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"St Louis: The US city transformed by heartbreak","headlineShort":"The US city transformed by heartbreak","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"38.6270","longitude":"90.1994","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Boasting the US' largest Bosnian population, St Louis, Missouri, has been shaped by the subtle but abundant influence of a community not found in such numbers outside Europe.","summaryShort":"Tragedy and sorrow have been infused into the city's landscape","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-17T14:05:29.667123Z","entity":"article","guid":"d523cbf0-9dc5-4491-b95a-0202c6a060d3","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:26.019875Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355542},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans","_id":"6267df881f4b7b21bb25b81a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flidija-pisker"],"bodyIntro":"Similar to how hummus is viewed in the Arab world, practically every Balkan country claims ajvar – a popular vegetable spread based on roasted red peppers – as its own.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust a decade ago, Melisa Hasanspahić from the eastern Bosnian town of Goražde could not have imagined that today she would be running a food production business based on a recipe she inherited from her mother. However, her life changed when she started selling jars of her homemade \u003Cem\u003Eajvar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a widely popular vegetable delicacy, which she had previously only gifted to her loved ones. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I love ajvar; I've always adored it,\" said Hasanspahić, now a food entrepreneur, whom family, friends and customers jokingly refer to as \"Lady Ajvar\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe orange spread, based on roasted red peppers, is not only adored by Hasanspahić but also by the whole of Bosnia and Herzegovina – and the entire Balkan region – where other \"Ladies Ajvar\" like her give away or sell homemade ajvar in their communities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut while Hasanspahić uses red peppers and aubergine to make it, some argue that \"real\" ajvar should only consist of four ingredients: red pepper, oil, salt and vinegar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERecipes, however, depend on the region and the cook. Some, for instance, require the addition of garlic, others red onions, carrots and tomatoes. Some do not mention vinegar but suggest adding sugar. And many differ on whether the vegetables should be roasted, baked, boiled or even ground fresh. Whether the ajvar will have a sweet or spicy taste depends on the type of pepper used.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the first known published ajvar recipe, found in the Great Serbian Cookbook from the 19th Century, author Katarina Popović mentions both peppers and aubergine. Yet, Serbians usually make ajvar only from red peppers, while citizens of North Macedonia are typically the ones who also use aubergine. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bz59g4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe discrepancy between this first documented recipe and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fserbian\u002Flat\u002Fsvet-50895736\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe current method of preparation in Serbia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is likely related to the fact that people have moved around the region and shared food traditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESimilar to how \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171211-who-invented-hummus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehummus is viewed in the Arab world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, practically every Balkan country claims ajvar as its own. Dua Lipa, a British singer of Kosovo origin, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=l9qacGzTJXc\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereferred to ajvar as an Albanian dish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in a 2020 interview, which infuriated some Serbians who insist that ajvar is Serbian, which in turn upset some citizens of North Macedonia who say it belongs to them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHeated ajvar debates have been sparked before, such as when the Slovenian media reported on the attempt of a Slovenian food company to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sta.si\u002F308983\u002Fmakedonski-revolt-proti-slovenski-zasciti-imena-ajvar\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eprotect the name \"ajvar\" in the German market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; and when RTS (Radio Television of Serbia) reported that a Serbian ajvar producer would \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rts.rs\u002Fpage\u002Fstories\u002Fsr\u002Fstory\u002F57\u002Fsrbija-danas\u002F1741280\u002Ffalsifikovan-leskovacki-ajvar.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efile a lawsuit against one from North Macedonia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for falsely branding and selling its product as \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fark-of-taste-slow-food\u002Fajvar-from-leskovac\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELeskovac Ajvar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" (a famous ajvar produced in southern Serbia's city of Leskovac).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch like the 2003 Bulgarian documentary \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt0387926\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhose Is This Song?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E about a popular folk song that all Balkan nations claim as theirs, the battle over ajvar depicts the tragicomic nationalism ever present in the conflict-ridden region. In the countries that emerged from the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Feurope\u002F4997380.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edisintegration of the former Yugoslavia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the 1990s, cultural and culinary heritage helped form a sense of identity, and every country longs to prove that what used to be a common good is exclusively its own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bz59j8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile there's little consensus over what constitutes the \"true\" recipe for ajvar, or which nation it officially belongs to, one thing that's for certain is that homemade ajvar is always produced in autumn – between September and October – during the \"pepper season\". The vegetables are individually cooked, peeled and then ground together with the remaining ingredients. Preserved in glass jars, ajvar is considered a \"winter food\" but is generally eaten year-round.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe versatile treat can be used as a topping, condiment, side dish or main course, although it's often served as part of \u003Cem\u003Emeza\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a Balkan appetiser platter with cheese, salami and other cured meats, or with \u003Cem\u003Ećevapi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Balkan minced meat sticks). It can be mixed with broth, served with steak or poured over omelettes, risotto or pasta. With a silky texture and salty-sweet flavour, it's pleasing even when simply spread on a slice of bread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The word \"ajvar\" comes from the Turkish word havyar, which means \"caviar\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe word \"ajvar\" comes from the Turkish word \u003Cem\u003Ehavyar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"caviar\". According to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fserbian\u002Flat\u002Fsvet-50895736\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esome explanations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it bears that name because peppers and oil were expensive and considered a luxury in Belgrade at the end of the 19th Century and \u003Cem\u003Ekafana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (traditional Serbian eateries) marketed the orange spread on their menus as \"red pepper caviar\". Now, however, vegetables cost much less and thus ajvar is very affordable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Ajvar is made of peppers that are available to practically everyone; it's easy to make; it's relatively cheap… It can be a main course and a side dish – it's the caviar for the poor,\" said ethnologist Slađana Rajković, who is an adviser at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmuzejleskovac.rs\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Leskovac.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bz59dz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAcross the Balkans, ajvar has come to represent much more than just food; it's also a source of pride and comfort, and offers a sense of belonging. During autumn and winter, for example, people across the Balkans gather at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fexplore\u002Ftags\u002Fajvarijada\u002F?hl=it\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eajvar festivals\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and ajvar-making competitions to celebrate the spread. Ajvar's appreciation is also apparent in the online world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We can show the world what the Balkan power is if we could get #ajvar trending,\" said Bosnian writer Aleksandar Hemon, who recently \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FSashaHemon\u002Fstatus\u002F1487131157992853506\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etweeted an image of jars of different types of ajvar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. His followers started posting their own jars and commenting on different versions of it in his thread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt has also been trending within Balkan pop culture. Croatian musician Tonči Huljić wrote a witty song about an attempt to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=06xb2cuBZEY\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\"smuggle\" a jar of ajvar into the European Union\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which has strict food import rules. A group of Serbian musicians expressed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=En9TafENn-Y&t=111s\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea more intimate relationship with ajvar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in a song whose chorus translates to \"Ajvar – five letters; ajvar – one colour; a jar full of serenity that is only mine\". And last year's Kosovo-Albanian feature film \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt13648212\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHive\u003C\u002Fa\u003E followed the true story of Kosovo war widow Fahrije Hoti, who founded an ajvar production company in her village to help widows regain their lives and become empowered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the recent award-winning Serbian film \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt7531860\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAjvar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a love story about a Serbian couple living in Sweden – the popular dish symbolises family, love and nostalgia, in which the introduction states that ajvar is \"commonly found in the suitcases of Serbian emigrants\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's precisely because of Balkans expatriates, many of whom live in Scandinavia, that ajvar has become popularised in northern European supermarkets, kitchens and even languages. The word \"ajvar\" has been entered into \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsvenska.se\u002Fso\u002F?id=100597&pz=5\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwedish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fordnet.dk\u002Fddo\u002Fordbog?query=ajvar\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDanish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dictionaries, where it generally is defined as \"a pepper cream with Balkan origins\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bz59fk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.slowfood.it\u002Fpresentazione\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETerra Madre Salone del Gusto\u003C\u002Fa\u003E festivals organised by the International Slow Food Foundation based in Italy, ajvar is dubbed as \u003Cem\u003Esalsa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"sauce\" in Italian). \"We would always sell all the jars [of ajvar] we would take with us,\" said Jasmina &Scaron;ahović, president of the Bosnian women's association \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fudruzenje.zena.emina\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEmina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which has been presenting ajvar and other Balkan foods at the events for several years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EApart from being a traditional food, ajvar – whose ingredients naturally fit into modern dietary trends – seems to have a bright future. It's suitable for vegetarians and vegans and doesn't contain gluten. Some vegan food and travel websites, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyummyplants.com\u002Fproduct-reviews\u002Faccidentally-vegan\u002Faccidentally-vegan-ajvar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYummy Plants\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.simplyhealthyvegan.com\u002Fcreamy-ajvar-pasta\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESimply Healthy Vegan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.slavicvegan.com\u002F2020\u002F11\u002F14\u002Fhomemade-ajvar-balkan-vegetable-caviar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlavic Vegan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fminimalist-traveller.com\u002F2020\u002F04\u002F08\u002Fajvar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMinimalist Traveller\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, recommend it to their followers. Recognising its market potential, the Croatian food company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.podravka.hr\u002Finspiracija\u002Fajvar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPodravka\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for example, has started branding its ajvar as a vegan product.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In line with the growing demand for vegan and organic food, more and more restaurants are including ajvar on their menus","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn line with the growing demand for vegan and organic food, more and more restaurants are including ajvar on their menus. \"It could not have come more naturally,\" said Željka Kisić, manager of vegan \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvegehop.hr\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVegehop restoran\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Croatia's capital of Zagreb. \"Ajvar is a special food that is difficult to avoid in our traditional cuisine and especially in a vegan diet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegional tourism companies are also seeing ajvar's potential and are targeting vegetarian visitors curious about Balkan cuisine, which is heavily dependent on meat and dairy products. For example, participants in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffoodtourbelgrade.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFood and Culture Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Serbian capital Belgrade can try ajvar and learn about its links to local culture. South of Belgrade, in North Macedonia's capital of Skopje, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fskopjewalkingtours.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESkopje Walking Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E uses a similar concept by offering tailor-made vegetarian and vegan food tours that include ajvar tastings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bz59hc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"A few months before the pandemic, I came up with the idea to start doing Ajvar tours,\" said Elena Mitkovska, the company's founder. \"My family and I were preparing ajvar in our backyard and I told them it would be a wonderful idea to host travellers next year and show them the whole process, but then Covid-19 broke out.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMitkovska hopes to launch her Ajvar tour this coming autumn, which will be an all-day programme that allows guests to participate in the whole ajvar-making process, from cleaning the peppers and cooking to enjoying a family-style lunch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Over the years, I have realised that people are looking for an experience in which they can have a personal touch with the local reality, and there is nothing more local and traditional than making ajvar in someone's home,\" Mitkovska added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJudging by travellers' reactions so far, Mitkovska believes that her Ajvar tours will be successful. And like many people in the Balkans, she cannot wait for autumn to come.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Falready-vegan\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAlready Vegan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that highlights dishes and cuisines from around the world that have been historically and culturally animal-free for eons.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Falready-vegan","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-18T20:04:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Ajvar: The vegan 'caviar' of the Balkans","headlineShort":"The Balkans' answer to hummus","image":["p0bz59gn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.669695","longitude":"18.9659567","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6267dfc91f4b7b565656c4b5"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bz59gn"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Similar to how hummus is viewed in the Arab world, practically every Balkan country claims ajvar – a popular vegetable spread based on roasted red peppers – as its own.","summaryShort":"This vegetable spread has sparked heated debates","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-17T20:06:31.476813Z","entity":"article","guid":"bd0f527d-321e-43f9-b195-2560ab9ee37f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-19T13:11:59.923383Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbosnia-and-herzegovina","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fserbia"],"destinationStat":"europe_europe_bosnia-and-herzegovina_europe_serbia","cacheLastUpdated":1653466355541}},"tags":{"tag\u002Ffood-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Ffood-drink","_id":"6267e0081f4b7b717102e01a","assetImage":["p017lhrv"],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest food and drink stories 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