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A Krementchouk, la guerre a fortifié le patriotisme ukrainien

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src="https://img.lemde.fr/2023/07/04/0/134/1036/1036/320/320/75/0/7733f02_294169-3329463.jpg" alt="Rescuers work at a site of a shopping mall hit by a Russian missile strike, as Russia's attack on Ukraine continues, in Kremenchuk, in Poltava region, Ukraine June 27, 2022. Picture taken June 27, 2022. REUTERS/Anna Voitenko" title="Anna Voitenko / REUTERS" sizes="100vw" height="320" width="640" > </picture> <figcaption class="article__copyright"> Anna Voitenko / REUTERS </figcaption> </figure> </section> <section class="article__heading"> <div class="article__breadcrumb"> </div> <div class="article__header-wrap"> <ul class="breadcrumb breadcrumb--longform"> <li class="breadcrumb__parent breadcrumb__parent--after js-breadcrumb"> <a class="logo__m-le-mag logo__m-le-mag--article" href="https://www.lemonde.fr/m-le-mag/"> <span class="sr-only">M le mag</span> </a> </a> </li> <li class="breadcrumb__child--article js-breadcrumb"> <a class="logo__crise-ukrainienne logo__crise-ukrainienne--article" href="https://www.lemonde.fr/crise-ukrainienne/"> Guerre en Ukraine </a> </li> </ul> <h1 class="article__title">A Krementchouk, la guerre a fortifié le patriotisme ukrainien</h1> <span class="meta__authors meta__authors--longform"> Par&nbsp;<a class="article__author-link" href="/signataires/anna-koriagina/">Anna Koriagina</a> </span> <section class="meta__date-reading"> <span class="meta__publisher">Publié le 07 juillet 2023 à 11h00, modifié le 13 novembre 2023 à 11h46</span> <p class="meta__reading-time meta__reading-time--header meta__reading-time--longform"> <span class="icon__reading-time"></span> <span><span class="sr-only">Temps de </span>Lecture 4 min.</span> <a class="meta__article-en-fr-url meta__article-en-fr-url--longform js-lang-switcher" href="/en/m-le-mag/article/2023/07/08/inside-kremenchuk-the-small-town-where-russia-s-war-has-strengthened-ukrainian-patriotism_6046623_117.html" hreflang="en"> <span class="meta__article-en-fr-url-link">Read in English</span> </a> </p> </section> <section class="article__info"> <section class="article__meta"><p class="article__status"><span class="icon__premium"></span>Article réservé aux abonnés</p> <div class="share-btns meta meta__social "> <button class="js-lmd-modal-gift-not-sub-toggler 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class="article__kicker">Reportage</span>L’attaque du centre commercial de la ville ouvrière, le 27 juin 2022 à 200 kilomètres de la ligne de front, a marqué les esprits. Longtemps sous domination soviétique, la cité rebaptise aujourd’hui ses rues des noms des soldats morts sur le front.</p></section> </section> </div> </section> <section class="article__content article__content--restricted"> <p class="article__paragraph article__paragraph--lf">Un dimanche soir d’été à Krementchouk, une ville de 220 000 habitants, au centre de l’Ukraine, à 300 kilomètres de Kiev et à 200 kilomètres de la ligne de front. Un DJ fait tourner ses disques sur la place de l’Indépendance, les musiciens de rue jouent au bord du Dniepr. Des badauds prennent en photo le coucher de soleil ou se baignent dans le fleuve. Les sirènes retentissent. Elles avaient déjà hurlé le 27 juin 2022, quand u<a href="https://www.lemonde.fr/international/article/2022/06/29/centre-commercial-de-krementchouk-en-ukraine-moscou-fait-ca-pour-nous-pousser-a-renoncer_6132517_3210.html">ne frappe de missile russe avait détruit le vaste centre commercial Amstor</a>. Les secouristes avaient fouillé les décombres pendant six jours. Bilan : 22 morts, 59 blessés. Alors, ce dimanche, certains pressent le pas pour se protéger, d’autres sortent leur portable pour surveiller via les chaînes Telegram la trajectoire des missiles. <em>« C’est bon, ça vole plutôt à l’est. »</em> Une heure plus tard, l’alerte est levée. Une voix crie : <em>« Gloire à la défense antiaérienne ! »</em></p> <p class="article__paragraph article__paragraph--lf">Le lendemain, déambulation sur l’esplanade du Palais de la culture, où au début des années 2000, Volodymyr Zelensky, le président ukrainien <a href="https://www.lemonde.fr/international/article/2023/02/20/volodymyr-zelensky-les-annees-russes_6162511_3210.html">alors comédien, se produisait régulièrement</a>. Au programme : un concert, un spectacle pour enfants, et, ce lundi, des obsèques. Hommes et femmes en tenue de deuil arrivent des œillets à la main. Hommage est rendu à Igor Kholodniak, combattant du régiment Azov et <a href="https://www.lemonde.fr/international/article/2022/05/17/guerre-en-ukraine-la-reddition-des-heros-d-azovstal_6126462_3210.html">défenseur de l’usine Azovstal à Marioupol,</a> mort le 29 juillet 2022 <a href="https://www.lemonde.fr/international/article/2022/07/29/bain-de-sang-dans-une-prison-parmi-des-prisonniers-de-guerre-ukrainiens_6136615_3210.html">dans l’explosion de la prison d’Olenivka</a>, dans l’enclave du Donbass, où il était emprisonné avec ses camarades.</p> <div id="inread_top" class="dfp-slot dfp__slot dfp__inread dfp-unloaded" data-format="inread_top" aria-hidden="true"></div> <p class="article__paragraph article__paragraph--lf">Oleg Kravtchenko, chauffeur de convoi funéraire, se tient au milieu d’un groupe de militaires. <em>« Le mois de juin a été calme, </em>commente-t-il en tirant sur sa cigarette. <em>Par contre, en mai, on enterrait un soldat chaque jour. »</em> A la sortie du cercueil, l’assemblée pose le genou gauche à terre : un hommage cosaque aux morts à la guerre. Sur la voiture d’Oleg Kravtchenko qui emporte le corps, un grand panneau : « Les héros ne meurent pas », une épitaphe née sur la place Maïdan, à Kiev, lors de la révolution de 2014. Au cimetière, à côté des tombes des soldats, une allée longe des sépultures qui toutes ont la même date de décès : les victimes du bombardement du centre commercial d’Amstor.</p> <h2 class="article__sub-title">Conversion soviétique</h2> <p class="article__paragraph article__paragraph--lf">Dans un café, Darya Kokhanivska, 20 ans, cheveux roux rayonnants et tee-shirt rose rayé, sirote son latte. Laryssa, sa mère, est la seule victime du bombardement d’Amstor dont le corps n’a jamais été retrouvé. Son mari et ses trois filles –­ Darya est la cadette – ont attendu six mois avant qu’elle soit officiellement déclarée morte. <em>« Nous avons décidé de ne pas faire de tombe symbolique. On se recueille devant une photo de maman chez nous, c’est déjà ça. »</em></p> <p class="reading-mode-only "><strong>Il vous reste 63.76% de cet article à lire. 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