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History of clothing and fashion Research Papers - Academia.edu
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overflow: hidden; text-overflow: ellipsis; -webkit-line-clamp: 3; -webkit-box-orient: vertical; }</style><div class="col-xs-12 clearfix"><div class="u-floatLeft"><h1 class="PageHeader-title u-m0x u-fs30">History of clothing and fashion</h1><div class="u-tcGrayDark">22,200 Followers</div><div class="u-tcGrayDark u-mt2x">Recent papers in <b>History of clothing and fashion</b></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="TabbedNavigation"><div class="container"><div class="row"><div class="col-xs-12 clearfix"><ul class="nav u-m0x u-p0x list-inline u-displayFlex"><li class="active"><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">Top Papers</a></li><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion/MostCited">Most Cited Papers</a></li><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion/MostDownloaded">Most Downloaded Papers</a></li><li><a href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion/MostRecent">Newest Papers</a></li><li><a class="" href="https://www.academia.edu/People/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">People</a></li></ul></div><style type="text/css">ul.nav{flex-direction:row}@media(max-width: 567px){ul.nav{flex-direction:column}.TabbedNavigation li{max-width:100%}.TabbedNavigation li.active{background-color:var(--background-grey, #dddde2)}.TabbedNavigation li.active:before,.TabbedNavigation li.active:after{display:none}}</style></div></div></div><div class="container"><div class="row"><div class="col-xs-12"><div class="u-displayFlex"><div class="u-flexGrow1"><div class="works"><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_43904724" data-work_id="43904724" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/43904724/Dressed_for_Action_Flying_Clothing_in_British_Propaganda_Material_Depicting_Royal_Air_Force_Aviators_1939_1945">Dressed for Action: Flying Clothing in British Propaganda Material Depicting Royal Air Force Aviators, 1939-1945</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Throughout the Second World War, a wide variety of methods were used to promote the actions and characters of the aviators in the Royal Air Force in Britain. In particular, flying clothing was repeatedly included in visual representations... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_43904724" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Throughout the Second World War, a wide variety of methods were used to promote the actions and characters of the aviators in the Royal Air Force in Britain. In particular, flying clothing was repeatedly included in visual representations of these aviators to encourage their recognition and appreciation by the British public. This article examines visual representations of Royal Air Force aviators and their flying clothing in material including posters and films produced for domestic consumption in Britain during the Second World War (1939 1945). It is argued that the symbolic use of flying clothing in visual material produced and circulated during this period can be divided into three categories of use as propaganda: as a symbol to aid audiences' identification of aviators; as a means to invite interest and fascination with the Royal Air Force; and as a visual representation to characterise and contextualise depictions of aviators and their surroundings. This usage served to promote Royal Air Force aviators in a manner that encouraged recruitment as well as enhanced popular support for the Royal Air Force and its contribution to Britain's war effort.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/43904724" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="450780ec06114f84e8c775b128b81dae" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":64228410,"asset_id":43904724,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/64228410/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5MSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="25208360" href="https://uq.academia.edu/LiamBarnsdale">Liam Barnsdale</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="25208360" type="text/json">{"id":25208360,"first_name":"Liam","last_name":"Barnsdale","domain_name":"uq","page_name":"LiamBarnsdale","display_name":"Liam Barnsdale","profile_url":"https://uq.academia.edu/LiamBarnsdale?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/25208360/18996648/18942388/s65_liam.barnsdale.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_43904724 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="43904724"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 43904724, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_43904724", }); 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In particular, flying clothing was repeatedly included in visual representations of these aviators to encourage their recognition and appreciation by the British public. This article examines visual representations of Royal Air Force aviators and their flying clothing in material including posters and films produced for domestic consumption in Britain during the Second World War (1939 1945). It is argued that the symbolic use of flying clothing in visual material produced and circulated during this period can be divided into three categories of use as propaganda: as a symbol to aid audiences' identification of aviators; as a means to invite interest and fascination with the Royal Air Force; and as a visual representation to characterise and contextualise depictions of aviators and their surroundings. This usage served to promote Royal Air Force aviators in a manner that encouraged recruitment as well as enhanced popular support for the Royal Air Force and its contribution to Britain's war effort.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":64228410,"asset_id":43904724,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":25208360,"first_name":"Liam","last_name":"Barnsdale","domain_name":"uq","page_name":"LiamBarnsdale","display_name":"Liam Barnsdale","profile_url":"https://uq.academia.edu/LiamBarnsdale?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/25208360/18996648/18942388/s65_liam.barnsdale.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":128,"name":"History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":133,"name":"Military History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Military_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":3356,"name":"Propaganda","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Propaganda?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":12739,"name":"Second World War","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Second_World_War?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":63917,"name":"Aviation History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Aviation_History?f_ri=177724"},{"id":159761,"name":"Military Uniforms","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Military_Uniforms?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_26468974" data-work_id="26468974" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/26468974/2008_PICCOLO_PACI_S_Storia_delle_vesti_liturgiche_Forma_Immagine_e_Funzione_Ancora_Milano_pdf">2008, PICCOLO PACI S., Storia delle vesti liturgiche, Forma, Immagine e Funzione, Ancora, Milano.pdf</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Il libro analizza le vesti liturgiche cristiane dal punto di vista storico, simbolico ed iconografico. Il testo, rigoroso e documentato, approfondisce in particolare il rapporto tra uomo e corpo, tra corpo e società, tra corpo e vestire... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_26468974" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Il libro analizza le vesti liturgiche cristiane dal punto di vista storico, simbolico ed iconografico. Il testo, rigoroso e documentato, approfondisce in particolare il rapporto tra uomo e corpo, tra corpo e società, tra corpo e vestire liturgico, Il volume è diviso in due parti, di cui la seconda nello specifico presenta la storia e l'evoluzione dei singoli 'capi' dell'abbigliamento liturgico cattolico. Il testo è illustrato con disegni al tratto dell'autrice.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/26468974" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="9c831dadf8997da169db3882cd371bd1" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":67507851,"asset_id":26468974,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/67507851/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5MSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="16120046" href="https://fitnyc.academia.edu/SaraPaciPiccolo">Sara Paci Piccolo</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="16120046" type="text/json">{"id":16120046,"first_name":"Sara","last_name":"Paci Piccolo","domain_name":"fitnyc","page_name":"SaraPaciPiccolo","display_name":"Sara Paci Piccolo","profile_url":"https://fitnyc.academia.edu/SaraPaciPiccolo?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/16120046/4375493/25653058/s65_sara.paci.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_26468974 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="26468974"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 26468974, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_26468974", }); 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Il testo, rigoroso e documentato, approfondisce in particolare il rapporto tra uomo e corpo, tra corpo e società, tra corpo e vestire liturgico, Il volume è diviso in due parti, di cui la seconda nello specifico presenta la storia e l'evoluzione dei singoli 'capi' dell'abbigliamento liturgico cattolico. Il testo è illustrato con disegni al tratto dell'autrice.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":67507851,"asset_id":26468974,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":16120046,"first_name":"Sara","last_name":"Paci Piccolo","domain_name":"fitnyc","page_name":"SaraPaciPiccolo","display_name":"Sara Paci Piccolo","profile_url":"https://fitnyc.academia.edu/SaraPaciPiccolo?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/16120046/4375493/25653058/s65_sara.paci.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":217,"name":"Sociology of Religion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Sociology_of_Religion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":13966,"name":"History of Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Art?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":16733,"name":"Costume (Anthropology)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Costume_Anthropology_?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":89696,"name":"Storia della chiesa","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Storia_della_chiesa?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":97839,"name":"STORIA DELL'ARTE","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/STORIA_DELLARTE?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":689113,"name":"History of the Church","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_the_Church?f_ri=177724"},{"id":694018,"name":"Storia culturale e sociale del Medioevo","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Storia_culturale_e_sociale_del_Medioevo?f_ri=177724"},{"id":2386713,"name":"Storia della Chiesa antica e medievale","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Storia_della_Chiesa_antica_e_medievale?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_4719151" data-work_id="4719151" 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})();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_15051493 coauthored" data-work_id="15051493" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/15051493/The_D%C3%A4tgen_trousers">The Dätgen trousers</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">To compare the trousers of Daetgen with other excavated trousers from the first millennium AD, a new study of the pattern-cutting and the analyses of the material and weave was conducted. The reconstruction of the history of the... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_15051493" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">To compare the trousers of Daetgen with other excavated trousers from the first millennium AD, a new study of the pattern-cutting and the analyses of the material and weave was conducted. The reconstruction of the history of the conservation turned out to be necessary to figure out understand the original seams. The study of the pattern cutting shows that the cut of the Daetgen trousers differs from the other woolen trousers found in Northern Germany, which have a more developed cut. However, the cut of the trousers is similar to linen trousers from Egypt and Syria (6th – 7th century AD). On the basis of a replica, the fit and the size of this exceptionally preserved garment was examinated.<br /><br />In: K. Grömer and F. Pritchard (eds.) 2015: Aspects of the Design, Production and Use of Textiles and Clothing from the Bronze Age to the Early Modern Era. NESAT XII. The North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles, 21st – 24th May 2014 in Hallstatt, Austria. Archaeolingua Main Series 33. Budapest 2015.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/15051493" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="9aa3d4ad4c7ee315eaa747fb0e2d1503" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":38700656,"asset_id":15051493,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/38700656/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5MSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="2734370" href="https://cambridge.academia.edu/AnneKwaspen">Anne Kwaspen</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="2734370" type="text/json">{"id":2734370,"first_name":"Anne","last_name":"Kwaspen","domain_name":"cambridge","page_name":"AnneKwaspen","display_name":"Anne Kwaspen","profile_url":"https://cambridge.academia.edu/AnneKwaspen?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/2734370/883731/1103632/s65_anne.kwaspen.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-15051493">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-15051493"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://independent.academia.edu/GabrieleZink">Gabriele Zink</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-15051493'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-15051493').html(); } } new HoverPopover(popoverSettings); })();</script></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_15051493 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="15051493"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 15051493, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_15051493", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_15051493 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 15051493; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_15051493"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_15051493 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="15051493"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 15051493; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=15051493]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_15051493").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_15051493").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="15051493"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">4</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2320" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles">Textiles</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2320" type="text/json">{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="6039" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textile_Archaeology">Textile Archaeology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="6039" type="text/json">{"id":6039,"name":"Textile Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textile_Archaeology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="118681" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeological_textiles_and_clothing">Archaeological textiles and clothing</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="118681" type="text/json">{"id":118681,"name":"Archaeological textiles and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeological_textiles_and_clothing?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="177724" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="177724" type="text/json">{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=15051493]'), work: {"id":15051493,"title":"The Dätgen trousers","created_at":"2015-08-20T02:38:27.113-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/15051493/The_D%C3%A4tgen_trousers?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_15051493","summary":" To compare the trousers of Daetgen with other excavated trousers from the first millennium AD, a new study of the pattern-cutting and the analyses of the material and weave was conducted. The reconstruction of the history of the conservation turned out to be necessary to figure out understand the original seams. The study of the pattern cutting shows that the cut of the Daetgen trousers differs from the other woolen trousers found in Northern Germany, which have a more developed cut. However, the cut of the trousers is similar to linen trousers from Egypt and Syria (6th – 7th century AD). On the basis of a replica, the fit and the size of this exceptionally preserved garment was examinated.\n\nIn: K. Grömer and F. Pritchard (eds.) 2015: Aspects of the Design, Production and Use of Textiles and Clothing from the Bronze Age to the Early Modern Era. NESAT XII. The North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles, 21st – 24th May 2014 in Hallstatt, Austria. Archaeolingua Main Series 33. Budapest 2015.\n\n\n\n\n","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":38700656,"asset_id":15051493,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":2734370,"first_name":"Anne","last_name":"Kwaspen","domain_name":"cambridge","page_name":"AnneKwaspen","display_name":"Anne Kwaspen","profile_url":"https://cambridge.academia.edu/AnneKwaspen?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/2734370/883731/1103632/s65_anne.kwaspen.jpg"},{"id":34493534,"first_name":"Gabriele","last_name":"Zink","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"GabrieleZink","display_name":"Gabriele Zink","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/GabrieleZink?f_ri=177724","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":6039,"name":"Textile Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textile_Archaeology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":118681,"name":"Archaeological textiles and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeological_textiles_and_clothing?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_26599058" data-work_id="26599058" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/26599058/Un_Abito_per_Osanna_in_IN_GLORIA_1515_2015_OSANNA_ANDREASI_D_A_M_A_N_T_O_V_A_">Un Abito per Osanna, in "IN GLORIA 1515 -2015. OSANNA ANDREASI D A M A N T O V A "</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Elisa Tosi Brandi e Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols presentano uno studio relativo ad uno dei più antichi abiti alla moda rinvenuto in Italia. Si tratta di una veste femminile appartenuta alla beata Osanna Andreasi da Mantova, consigliera di... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_26599058" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Elisa Tosi Brandi e Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols presentano uno studio relativo ad uno dei più antichi abiti alla moda rinvenuto in Italia. Si tratta di una veste femminile appartenuta alla beata Osanna Andreasi da Mantova, consigliera di Isabella d'Este e "santa di corte" dei Gonzaga, risalente alla seconda metà del XV secolo. <br />Le due autrici hanno studiato insieme il caso, precisamente Elisa Tosi Brandi si è occupata del contesto storico e sociale, Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols dello studio della fonte materiale e della sua ricostruzione ora esposta presso Casa Andreasi. <br /> <br />Elisa Tosi Brandi and Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols present a study of the oldest trendy clothes found in Italy. It is a woman's dress belonged to the Blessed Osanna Andreasi from Mantua, counselor of the Gonzaga court, dating from the second half of the fifteenth century. <br />The two authors have studied together the case, namely Elisa Tosi Brandi took over the historical and social context, Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols the study of the material source and its reconstruction, now display at Casa Andreasi.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/26599058" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="4dbb507880e034fe4005e6c5c66e3eb4" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":46886382,"asset_id":26599058,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/46886382/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5MSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="17453324" href="https://unibo.academia.edu/ElisaTosiBrandi">Elisa Tosi Brandi</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="17453324" type="text/json">{"id":17453324,"first_name":"Elisa","last_name":"Tosi Brandi","domain_name":"unibo","page_name":"ElisaTosiBrandi","display_name":"Elisa Tosi Brandi","profile_url":"https://unibo.academia.edu/ElisaTosiBrandi?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/17453324/8971434/19368450/s65_elisa.tosi_brandi.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_26599058 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="26599058"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 26599058, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_26599058", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=26599058]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_26599058").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_26599058").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="26599058"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">12</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1446" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History">Medieval History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1446" type="text/json">{"id":1446,"name":"Medieval History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1650" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Dress">Medieval Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1650" type="text/json">{"id":1650,"name":"Medieval Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Dress?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1727" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History">Early Modern History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1727" type="text/json">{"id":1727,"name":"Early Modern History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=26599058]'), work: {"id":26599058,"title":"Un Abito per Osanna, in \"IN GLORIA 1515 -2015. OSANNA ANDREASI D A M A N T O V A \"","created_at":"2016-06-29T06:44:06.153-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/26599058/Un_Abito_per_Osanna_in_IN_GLORIA_1515_2015_OSANNA_ANDREASI_D_A_M_A_N_T_O_V_A_?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_26599058","summary":"Elisa Tosi Brandi e Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols presentano uno studio relativo ad uno dei più antichi abiti alla moda rinvenuto in Italia. Si tratta di una veste femminile appartenuta alla beata Osanna Andreasi da Mantova, consigliera di Isabella d'Este e \"santa di corte\" dei Gonzaga, risalente alla seconda metà del XV secolo.\r\nLe due autrici hanno studiato insieme il caso, precisamente Elisa Tosi Brandi si è occupata del contesto storico e sociale, Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols dello studio della fonte materiale e della sua ricostruzione ora esposta presso Casa Andreasi.\r\n\r\nElisa Tosi Brandi and Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols present a study of the oldest trendy clothes found in Italy. It is a woman's dress belonged to the Blessed Osanna Andreasi from Mantua, counselor of the Gonzaga court, dating from the second half of the fifteenth century.\r\nThe two authors have studied together the case, namely Elisa Tosi Brandi took over the historical and social context, Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols the study of the material source and its reconstruction, now display at Casa Andreasi.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":46886382,"asset_id":26599058,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":17453324,"first_name":"Elisa","last_name":"Tosi Brandi","domain_name":"unibo","page_name":"ElisaTosiBrandi","display_name":"Elisa Tosi Brandi","profile_url":"https://unibo.academia.edu/ElisaTosiBrandi?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/17453324/8971434/19368450/s65_elisa.tosi_brandi.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":1446,"name":"Medieval History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":1650,"name":"Medieval Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Dress?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":1727,"name":"Early Modern History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":2853,"name":"Medieval Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Studies?f_ri=177724"},{"id":13658,"name":"Dress and the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body?f_ri=177724"},{"id":21622,"name":"Dress and identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_identity?f_ri=177724"},{"id":25719,"name":"Religious History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Religious_History?f_ri=177724"},{"id":86962,"name":"Fashion,textile and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_textile_and_clothing?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":267812,"name":"Medieval Textiles and Clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Textiles_and_Clothing?f_ri=177724"},{"id":2417113,"name":"Santi domenicani","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Santi_domenicani?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_39978157" data-work_id="39978157" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/39978157/Rabiega_K_2019_Viking_Dress_Code_Textile_and_leather_clothing_in_Scandinavia_Szczecin_Triglav">Rabiega, K. 2019. Viking Dress Code. Textile and leather clothing in Scandinavia. Szczecin: Triglav.</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/39978157" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="c220346ec7f4c973c8655c07260c8719" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":60169218,"asset_id":39978157,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/60169218/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5MSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="825908" href="https://uksw.academia.edu/KamilRabiega">Kamil Rabiega</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="825908" type="text/json">{"id":825908,"first_name":"Kamil","last_name":"Rabiega","domain_name":"uksw","page_name":"KamilRabiega","display_name":"Kamil Rabiega","profile_url":"https://uksw.academia.edu/KamilRabiega?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/825908/287749/1121745/s65_kamil.rabiega.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_39978157 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="39978157"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 39978157, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_39978157", }); 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Viking Dress Code. Textile and leather clothing in Scandinavia. Szczecin: Triglav.","created_at":"2019-07-31T05:25:36.517-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/39978157/Rabiega_K_2019_Viking_Dress_Code_Textile_and_leather_clothing_in_Scandinavia_Szczecin_Triglav?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_39978157","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":60169218,"asset_id":39978157,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":825908,"first_name":"Kamil","last_name":"Rabiega","domain_name":"uksw","page_name":"KamilRabiega","display_name":"Kamil Rabiega","profile_url":"https://uksw.academia.edu/KamilRabiega?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/825908/287749/1121745/s65_kamil.rabiega.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":392,"name":"Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":8878,"name":"Costume and Identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Costume_and_Identity?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":11904,"name":"Viking Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Viking_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":14253,"name":"Viking Age Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Viking_Age_Archaeology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":38420,"name":"Viking Age Scandinavia","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Viking_Age_Scandinavia?f_ri=177724"},{"id":51642,"name":"Reenactment","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Reenactment?f_ri=177724"},{"id":81964,"name":"Clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothing?f_ri=177724"},{"id":90114,"name":"Vikings","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Vikings?f_ri=177724"},{"id":96912,"name":"Viking Age","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Viking_Age?f_ri=177724"},{"id":97538,"name":"Material Culture of the Viking age","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_of_the_Viking_age?f_ri=177724"},{"id":118681,"name":"Archaeological textiles and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeological_textiles_and_clothing?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":1003766,"name":"Costume Reconstruction","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Costume_Reconstruction?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_39412404" data-work_id="39412404" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/39412404/COMPARATIVE_ANALYSIS_OF_RUSSIAN_PRE_PETRINE_COSTUME_AND_EUROPEAN_RENAISSANCE_COSTUME">COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF RUSSIAN PRE-PETRINE COSTUME AND EUROPEAN RENAISSANCE COSTUME</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">The main purpose of this article is to compare Russian women’s costume of the pre-Petrine period and European Renaissance costume. The authors analyzed written sources on the subject, investigated shapes and constructions of historical... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_39412404" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">The main purpose of this article is to compare Russian women’s costume of the pre-Petrine period and European Renaissance costume. The authors analyzed written sources on the subject, investigated shapes and constructions of historical garments, as well as decoration methods and materials that was being used for tailoring.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/39412404" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="33d1e9964422a410c66b279e58d95d4f" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":59557507,"asset_id":39412404,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/59557507/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5MSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="67730880" href="https://sutd-ru.academia.edu/AlekseiMoskvin">Aleksei Moskvin</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="67730880" type="text/json">{"id":67730880,"first_name":"Aleksei","last_name":"Moskvin","domain_name":"sutd-ru","page_name":"AlekseiMoskvin","display_name":"Aleksei Moskvin","profile_url":"https://sutd-ru.academia.edu/AlekseiMoskvin?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/67730880/17610466/17665198/s65_aleksei.moskvin.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_39412404 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="39412404"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 39412404, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_39412404", }); 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The authors analyzed written sources on the subject, investigated shapes and constructions of historical garments, as well as decoration methods and materials that was being used for tailoring.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":59557507,"asset_id":39412404,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":67730880,"first_name":"Aleksei","last_name":"Moskvin","domain_name":"sutd-ru","page_name":"AlekseiMoskvin","display_name":"Aleksei Moskvin","profile_url":"https://sutd-ru.academia.edu/AlekseiMoskvin?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/67730880/17610466/17665198/s65_aleksei.moskvin.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":406918,"name":"Apparel Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Apparel_Industry?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":670772,"name":"Textile and Apparel Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textile_and_Apparel_Industry?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_25324596" data-work_id="25324596" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/25324596/Osmanl%C4%B1_%C4%B0stanbulunda_Giyim_Ku%C5%9Fam">Osmanlı İstanbul'unda Giyim Kuşam</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/25324596" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="4e1e1c78200e8e940df44946e1287c72" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":45623179,"asset_id":25324596,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/45623179/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5MSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="140340" href="https://marmara.academia.edu/BetulIpsirliArgit">Betül İpşirli Argıt</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="140340" type="text/json">{"id":140340,"first_name":"Betül","last_name":"İpşirli Argıt","domain_name":"marmara","page_name":"BetulIpsirliArgit","display_name":"Betül İpşirli Argıt","profile_url":"https://marmara.academia.edu/BetulIpsirliArgit?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/140340/971815/6936859/s65_betul.ipsirli_argit.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_25324596 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="25324596"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 25324596, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_25324596", }); 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I just can't get the appendices uploaded because of their size! Anyone interested, please drop me a note and I will... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_10974178" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">MA thesis researching the socio-political dimensions of Mongolian attire in the Mongolian Empire and Yuan dynasty. <br /> <br />I just can't get the appendices uploaded because of their size! <br />Anyone interested, please drop me a note and I will e-mail them on to you!</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/10974178" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="84dadc41dbaf3fa07d87e54636e235e8" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":36719194,"asset_id":10974178,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/36719194/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5MSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="24587019" href="https://independent.academia.edu/ulrikeherold">ulrike herold</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="24587019" type="text/json">{"id":24587019,"first_name":"ulrike","last_name":"herold","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"ulrikeherold","display_name":"ulrike herold","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/ulrikeherold?f_ri=177724","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_10974178 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="10974178"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 10974178, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_10974178", }); 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Gelehrte unter sich und ihresgleichen.</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/43955283" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="dbf1ca10a973ab89991b803c1959a2bd" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":64281843,"asset_id":43955283,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/64281843/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5MSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="41218141" href="https://uni-duesseldorf.academia.edu/AndreavonH%C3%BClsenEsch">Andrea von Hülsen-Esch</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="41218141" type="text/json">{"id":41218141,"first_name":"Andrea","last_name":"von Hülsen-Esch","domain_name":"uni-duesseldorf","page_name":"AndreavonHülsenEsch","display_name":"Andrea von Hülsen-Esch","profile_url":"https://uni-duesseldorf.academia.edu/AndreavonH%C3%BClsenEsch?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/41218141/35050878/87636892/s65_andrea.von_h_lsen-esch.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_43955283 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="43955283"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 43955283, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_43955283", }); 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Eds. Francisco Fernández de Alba and Marcela T. Garcés. Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2021, pp. 35-58.</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/45659128" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="868b8dc6a7f44274183d3d1128559b09" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":67693831,"asset_id":45659128,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/67693831/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5MSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="42168924" href="https://citytech-cuny.academia.edu/In%C3%A9sCorujoMart%C3%ADn">Inés Corujo Martín</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="42168924" type="text/json">{"id":42168924,"first_name":"Inés","last_name":"Corujo Martín","domain_name":"citytech-cuny","page_name":"InésCorujoMartín","display_name":"Inés Corujo Martín","profile_url":"https://citytech-cuny.academia.edu/In%C3%A9sCorujoMart%C3%ADn?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/42168924/12481678/64029142/s65_in_s.corujo-mart_n.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_45659128 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="45659128"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 45659128, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_45659128", }); 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Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2021, pp. 35-58.","created_at":"2021-04-01T10:51:01.629-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/45659128/_Accessorizing_the_Nation_Mantillas_Cultural_Identity_and_Modern_Spain_Fashioning_Spain_From_Mantillas_to_Rosal%C3%ADa_Eds_Francisco_Fern%C3%A1ndez_de_Alba_and_Marcela_T_Garc%C3%A9s_Bloomsbury_Visual_Arts_2021_pp_35_58?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_45659128","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":67693831,"asset_id":45659128,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":42168924,"first_name":"Inés","last_name":"Corujo Martín","domain_name":"citytech-cuny","page_name":"InésCorujoMartín","display_name":"Inés Corujo Martín","profile_url":"https://citytech-cuny.academia.edu/In%C3%A9sCorujoMart%C3%ADn?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/42168924/12481678/64029142/s65_in_s.corujo-mart_n.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":49663,"name":"Women and Gender Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Women_and_Gender_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":50951,"name":"Visual and Material Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_and_Material_Culture?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_32842408" data-work_id="32842408" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/32842408/%D8%AA%D8%A7%D8%B1%D9%8A%D8%AE_%D9%85%D9%87%D9%86%D8%A9_%D8%A7%D9%84%D9%82%D8%B5%D8%A7%D8%B1%D9%8A%D9%86_%D9%81%D9%8A_%D8%A7%D9%84%D8%A8%D8%AD%D8%B1%D9%8A%D9%86_%D8%AF%D8%B1%D8%A7%D8%B3%D8%A9_%D8%AA%D8%A7%D8%B1%D9%8A%D8%AE%D9%8A%D8%A9_%D8%AA%D8%AD%D9%84%D9%8A%D9%84%D9%8A%D8%A9">تاريخ مهنة القصارين في البحرين: دراسة تاريخية تحليلية</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/32842408" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="3f1b07868f217187027f40b4d1aa59a3" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":52989733,"asset_id":32842408,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/52989733/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5MSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="1116218" href="https://independent.academia.edu/jamri">H. 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M. Hussain","last_name":"حسين محمد حسين","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"jamri","display_name":"H. M. Hussain حسين محمد حسين","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/jamri?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1116218/389623/473447/s65__._.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":16903,"name":"Traditional Crafts","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Traditional_Crafts?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":35764,"name":"Folk Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Folk_Culture?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":52210,"name":"Bahrain","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Bahrain?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":531917,"name":"Bahrain History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Bahrain_History?f_ri=177724"},{"id":581956,"name":"Bahrain archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Bahrain_archaeology?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_31907073" data-work_id="31907073" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/31907073/Fashion_s_from_the_Northwest_Coast_Nuu_chah_nulth_Design_Iterations">Fashion(s) from the Northwest Coast: Nuu-chah-nulth Design Iterations</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Carved and painted onto wood, stone, bone, animal skins or metal, woven and knit into cloth, material culture from Northwest Coast Native peoples has historically been a one-of-a-kind iteration and a declaration of of familial rights and... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_31907073" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Carved and painted onto wood, stone, bone, animal skins or metal, woven and knit into cloth, material culture from Northwest Coast Native peoples has historically been a one-of-a-kind iteration and a declaration of of familial rights and privileges. These items adorned public and private spaces, including the body, and were traditionally produced by hand. In recent years, some designs have been serialized and mass produced through new technologies like silk screen and digital printing, adorning everything from coffee mugs to t-shirts, sunglasses, jewelry and other garments (Roth 2012; Roth 2015). This chapter explores the history of Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations specifically and analyzes their distinctive aesthetics and design practice through the lens of fashion theory. The chapter concludes with a discussion of contemporary Nuu-chah-nulth designers and the circulation of their work. I ask: how does fashion operate within Nuu-chah-nulth social organization and how has ongoing colonialism and hybridization of prestige and capitalist economies transformed Nuu-chah-nulth fashion systems and design ideas? The findings discussed in this chapter draw from ongoing ethnographic research (beginning in October 2009) and archival- and museum-based research at both major and minor institutional repositories in the United States, Canada, Germany and England.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/31907073" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="069330eb54e00d7273e17e0e8ecbb09d" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":52189837,"asset_id":31907073,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/52189837/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5MSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="397741" href="https://cornell.academia.edu/DeniseNicoleGreen">Denise Nicole Green</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="397741" type="text/json">{"id":397741,"first_name":"Denise Nicole","last_name":"Green","domain_name":"cornell","page_name":"DeniseNicoleGreen","display_name":"Denise Nicole Green","profile_url":"https://cornell.academia.edu/DeniseNicoleGreen?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/397741/98966/16514370/s65_denise_nicole.green.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_31907073 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="31907073"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 31907073, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_31907073", }); 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These items adorned public and private spaces, including the body, and were traditionally produced by hand. In recent years, some designs have been serialized and mass produced through new technologies like silk screen and digital printing, adorning everything from coffee mugs to t-shirts, sunglasses, jewelry and other garments (Roth 2012; Roth 2015). This chapter explores the history of Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations specifically and analyzes their distinctive aesthetics and design practice through the lens of fashion theory. The chapter concludes with a discussion of contemporary Nuu-chah-nulth designers and the circulation of their work. I ask: how does fashion operate within Nuu-chah-nulth social organization and how has ongoing colonialism and hybridization of prestige and capitalist economies transformed Nuu-chah-nulth fashion systems and design ideas? The findings discussed in this chapter draw from ongoing ethnographic research (beginning in October 2009) and archival- and museum-based research at both major and minor institutional repositories in the United States, Canada, Germany and England. ","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":52189837,"asset_id":31907073,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":397741,"first_name":"Denise Nicole","last_name":"Green","domain_name":"cornell","page_name":"DeniseNicoleGreen","display_name":"Denise Nicole Green","profile_url":"https://cornell.academia.edu/DeniseNicoleGreen?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/397741/98966/16514370/s65_denise_nicole.green.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":8878,"name":"Costume and Identity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Costume_and_Identity?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":35590,"name":"Textile Design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textile_Design?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":37665,"name":"First Nations of Canada","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/First_Nations_of_Canada?f_ri=177724"},{"id":41128,"name":"First Nations History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/First_Nations_History?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":483328,"name":"Traditional Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Traditional_Dress?f_ri=177724"},{"id":548201,"name":"Pacific Northwest Coast Native Americans","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Pacific_Northwest_Coast_Native_Americans?f_ri=177724"},{"id":782823,"name":"Pacific Northwest Coast Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Pacific_Northwest_Coast_Art?f_ri=177724"},{"id":2661242,"name":"Nuu-chah-nulth","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Nuu-chah-nulth?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_2652702" data-work_id="2652702" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/2652702/FRED_CARLIN_THE_UNKNOWN_FOUNDER_OF_THE_FIRST_FRENCH_FASHION_PREDICTION_COMPANY_1902_1991">FRED CARLIN : THE UNKNOWN FOUNDER OF THE FIRST FRENCH FASHION PREDICTION COMPANY 1902 - 1991 </a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/2652702" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="941e133ae033c076d9543cd0a2b16f56" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":30654214,"asset_id":2652702,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/30654214/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5MSw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="3029259" href="https://eur.academia.edu/ThierryMaillet">Thierry Maillet</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="3029259" type="text/json">{"id":3029259,"first_name":"Thierry","last_name":"Maillet","domain_name":"eur","page_name":"ThierryMaillet","display_name":"Thierry Maillet","profile_url":"https://eur.academia.edu/ThierryMaillet?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/3029259/996129/1246071/s65_thierry.maillet.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_2652702 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="2652702"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 2652702, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_2652702", }); 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How the New York Times Reported the Changing Dress of Women","created_at":"2022-06-21T10:02:32.736-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/81995772/Who_s_Wearing_the_Pants_How_the_New_York_Times_Reported_the_Changing_Dress_of_Women?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_81995772","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":87844570,"asset_id":81995772,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":204337,"first_name":"Kimberly","last_name":"Voss","domain_name":"ucf","page_name":"KimberlyVoss","display_name":"Kimberly Voss","profile_url":"https://ucf.academia.edu/KimberlyVoss?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/204337/98103/3497797/s65_kimberly.voss.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":10453,"name":"Feminism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Feminism?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":41671,"name":"Clothing Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothing_Culture?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":61887,"name":"Social Behavior Through Clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Social_Behavior_Through_Clothing?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":81964,"name":"Clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothing?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_65754223" data-work_id="65754223" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/65754223/Entre_l_exclusivitat_i_la_democratitzaci%C3%B3_del_vestit_apunt_sobre_els_inicis_del_disseny_de_moda_a_Catalunya">Entre l' exclusivitat i la democratització del vestit: apunt sobre els inicis del disseny de moda a Catalunya</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest">This paper discuses about the democratisation and the exclusivity of fashion at the end of the 19th century.</div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/65754223" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="27272253" href="https://independentresearcher.academia.edu/LauraCasalValls">Laura Casal-Valls</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="27272253" type="text/json">{"id":27272253,"first_name":"Laura","last_name":"Casal-Valls","domain_name":"independentresearcher","page_name":"LauraCasalValls","display_name":"Laura Casal-Valls","profile_url":"https://independentresearcher.academia.edu/LauraCasalValls?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/27272253/7746072/8684241/s65_laura.casal-valls.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_65754223 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="65754223"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 65754223, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_65754223", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=65754223]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_65754223").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_65754223").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="65754223"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">6</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="128" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History">History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="128" type="text/json">{"id":128,"name":"History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="18241" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Mentality">History of Mentality</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="18241" type="text/json">{"id":18241,"name":"History of Mentality","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Mentality?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="177724" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="177724" type="text/json">{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=65754223]'), work: {"id":65754223,"title":"Entre l' exclusivitat i la democratització del vestit: apunt sobre els inicis del disseny de moda a Catalunya","created_at":"2021-12-23T15:41:26.883-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/65754223/Entre_l_exclusivitat_i_la_democratitzaci%C3%B3_del_vestit_apunt_sobre_els_inicis_del_disseny_de_moda_a_Catalunya?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_65754223","summary":"This paper discuses about the democratisation and the exclusivity of fashion at the end of the 19th century.","downloadable_attachments":[],"ordered_authors":[{"id":27272253,"first_name":"Laura","last_name":"Casal-Valls","domain_name":"independentresearcher","page_name":"LauraCasalValls","display_name":"Laura Casal-Valls","profile_url":"https://independentresearcher.academia.edu/LauraCasalValls?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/27272253/7746072/8684241/s65_laura.casal-valls.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":128,"name":"History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":18241,"name":"History of Mentality","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Mentality?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":467563,"name":"Historia del pensamiento económico","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historia_del_pensamiento_econ%C3%B3mico?f_ri=177724"},{"id":2172121,"name":"Revista de Catalunya","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Revista_de_Catalunya?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_32793386" data-work_id="32793386" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/32793386/Dressing_modern_identity_Victorian_style_re_imagined_in_the_Angelica_Garnett_Gift">Dressing modern identity: Victorian style re-imagined in the Angelica Garnett Gift</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">This article discusses recent finds in the Angelica Garnett Gift of 8000 previously unseen works of art by Bloomsbury artists Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, donated to The Charleston Trust in 2008. The Charleston Trust cares for... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_32793386" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">This article discusses recent finds in the Angelica Garnett Gift of 8000 previously unseen works of art by Bloomsbury artists Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, donated to The Charleston Trust in 2008. The Charleston Trust cares for Charleston House, the Sussex home of Bell and Grant, and the collection of their and their contemporaries’ artworks. The Angelica Garnett Gift has emphasized the overlooked importance of dress to the work and lives of Bell and Grant and calls for more attention on the sartorials of Bloomsbury. This article aims to spark discussion in this understudied field, focusing on two examples found in the Gift, which reinterpret and reclaim the Victorian styles of the top hat and the fan to express possibilities of modern identity. These works interrogate how dress can negotiate experiences of both gender and modernity while also revealing understudied artistic and design processes, for Duncan Grant with the Omega Workshops and Vanessa Bell later in life. The style of the Bloomsbury Group continues to inspire designers today who find their modernist dress equally suitable to express the contemporary moment.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/32793386" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="31253339" href="https://exeter.academia.edu/ZoeWolstenholme">Zoe Wolstenholme</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="31253339" type="text/json">{"id":31253339,"first_name":"Zoe","last_name":"Wolstenholme","domain_name":"exeter","page_name":"ZoeWolstenholme","display_name":"Zoe Wolstenholme","profile_url":"https://exeter.academia.edu/ZoeWolstenholme?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/31253339/9194770/17367574/s65_zoe.wolstenholme.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_32793386 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="32793386"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 32793386, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_32793386", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_32793386 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 32793386; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_32793386"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_32793386 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="32793386"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 32793386; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=32793386]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_32793386").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_32793386").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="32793386"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">3</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="16767" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Modernism">Modernism</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="16767" type="text/json">{"id":16767,"name":"Modernism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Modernism?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="51355" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Bloomsbury_Group">Bloomsbury Group</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="51355" type="text/json">{"id":51355,"name":"Bloomsbury Group","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Bloomsbury_Group?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="177724" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="177724" type="text/json">{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=32793386]'), work: {"id":32793386,"title":"Dressing modern identity: Victorian style re-imagined in the Angelica Garnett Gift","created_at":"2017-05-03T02:14:27.205-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/32793386/Dressing_modern_identity_Victorian_style_re_imagined_in_the_Angelica_Garnett_Gift?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_32793386","summary":"This article discusses recent finds in the Angelica Garnett Gift of 8000 previously unseen works of art by Bloomsbury artists Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, donated to The Charleston Trust in 2008. The Charleston Trust cares for Charleston House, the Sussex home of Bell and Grant, and the collection of their and their contemporaries’ artworks. The Angelica Garnett Gift has emphasized the overlooked importance of dress to the work and lives of Bell and Grant and calls for more attention on the sartorials of Bloomsbury. This article aims to spark discussion in this understudied field, focusing on two examples found in the Gift, which reinterpret and reclaim the Victorian styles of the top hat and the fan to express possibilities of modern identity. These works interrogate how dress can negotiate experiences of both gender and modernity while also revealing understudied artistic and design processes, for Duncan Grant with the Omega Workshops and Vanessa Bell later in life. The style of the Bloomsbury Group continues to inspire designers today who find their modernist dress equally suitable to express the contemporary moment.","downloadable_attachments":[],"ordered_authors":[{"id":31253339,"first_name":"Zoe","last_name":"Wolstenholme","domain_name":"exeter","page_name":"ZoeWolstenholme","display_name":"Zoe Wolstenholme","profile_url":"https://exeter.academia.edu/ZoeWolstenholme?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/31253339/9194770/17367574/s65_zoe.wolstenholme.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":16767,"name":"Modernism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Modernism?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":51355,"name":"Bloomsbury Group","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Bloomsbury_Group?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_35889926" data-work_id="35889926" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/35889926/Being_Prepared_Aspects_of_Dress_and_Dressing">Being Prepared: Aspects of Dress and Dressing</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Book review. Michael Carter: Being Prepared: Aspects of Dress and Dressing. Sydney: Puncher & Wattmann, 2017, 210 pp., ISBN 978-1-9221-8694-2. The meanings of dress, clothing and fashion are so intermingled nowadays that it is hard to... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_35889926" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Book review. Michael Carter: Being Prepared: Aspects of Dress and Dressing. Sydney: Puncher & Wattmann, 2017, 210 pp., ISBN 978-1-9221-8694-2.<br /><br />The meanings of dress, clothing and fashion are so intermingled nowadays that it is hard to speak about one without inferring the others. Dress is mainly about appearance, the visual, while fashion includes the social meanings and functions of dress. Clothing occupies a central place in contemporary dress and fashion, but clothing is also a technology with properties and functions unrelated to dress and fashion. For these reasons, the overlap between dress and clothing can create problems when considering questions of origins.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/35889926" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="99b30f03fc4fc60a3b503ed48e6d6e76" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":68382216,"asset_id":35889926,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/68382216/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="26989126" href="https://sydney.academia.edu/IanGilligan">Ian Gilligan</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="26989126" type="text/json">{"id":26989126,"first_name":"Ian","last_name":"Gilligan","domain_name":"sydney","page_name":"IanGilligan","display_name":"Ian Gilligan","profile_url":"https://sydney.academia.edu/IanGilligan?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/26989126/7576028/110088399/s65_ian.gilligan.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_35889926 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="35889926"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 35889926, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_35889926", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=35889926]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_35889926").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_35889926").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="35889926"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">21</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="392" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology">Archaeology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="392" type="text/json">{"id":392,"name":"Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="767" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology">Anthropology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="767" type="text/json">{"id":767,"name":"Anthropology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="915" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History">Art History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="915" type="text/json">{"id":915,"name":"Art History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1094" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design">Fashion design</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1094" type="text/json">{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=35889926]'), work: {"id":35889926,"title":"Being Prepared: Aspects of Dress and Dressing","created_at":"2018-02-10T17:10:17.953-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/35889926/Being_Prepared_Aspects_of_Dress_and_Dressing?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_35889926","summary":"Book review. Michael Carter: Being Prepared: Aspects of Dress and Dressing. Sydney: Puncher \u0026 Wattmann, 2017, 210 pp., ISBN 978-1-9221-8694-2.\n\nThe meanings of dress, clothing and fashion are so intermingled nowadays that it is hard to speak about one without inferring the others. Dress is mainly about appearance, the visual, while fashion includes the social meanings and functions of dress. Clothing occupies a central place in contemporary dress and fashion, but clothing is also a technology with properties and functions unrelated to dress and fashion. For these reasons, the overlap between dress and clothing can create problems when considering questions of origins.\n","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":68382216,"asset_id":35889926,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":26989126,"first_name":"Ian","last_name":"Gilligan","domain_name":"sydney","page_name":"IanGilligan","display_name":"Ian Gilligan","profile_url":"https://sydney.academia.edu/IanGilligan?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/26989126/7576028/110088399/s65_ian.gilligan.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":392,"name":"Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":767,"name":"Anthropology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":915,"name":"Art History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":1386,"name":"Art Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_Theory?f_ri=177724"},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=177724"},{"id":1434,"name":"Dress Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_Studies?f_ri=177724"},{"id":1436,"name":"Anthropology of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Anthropology_of_Dress?f_ri=177724"},{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=177724"},{"id":1512,"name":"Climate Change","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Climate_Change?f_ri=177724"},{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=177724"},{"id":3255,"name":"Climate Change Adaptation","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Climate_Change_Adaptation?f_ri=177724"},{"id":5290,"name":"Philosophy of Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Philosophy_of_Art?f_ri=177724"},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724"},{"id":13658,"name":"Dress and the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body?f_ri=177724"},{"id":18822,"name":"Dress and Personal Adornment (Archaeology)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_Personal_Adornment_Archaeology_?f_ri=177724"},{"id":30254,"name":"Pleistocene","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Pleistocene?f_ri=177724"},{"id":81964,"name":"Clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothing?f_ri=177724"},{"id":86962,"name":"Fashion,textile and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_textile_and_clothing?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_40176502" data-work_id="40176502" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/40176502/TEXTILES_AND_SOCIAL_STATUS_THE_CASE_OF_LATE_MEDIEVAL_ELBL%C4%84G">TEXTILES AND SOCIAL STATUS. THE CASE OF LATE MEDIEVAL ELBLĄG</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">High quality textiles were unquestionably one of the most luxurious goods in the Middle Ages. Expensive fabrics, especially silks are recognised as indicators of the owner's high social status. The excavations conducted in Elbląg (Elbing)... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_40176502" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">High quality textiles were unquestionably one of the most luxurious goods in the Middle Ages. Expensive fabrics, especially silks are recognised as indicators of the owner's high social status. The excavations conducted in Elbląg (Elbing) gave rise to a very interesting collection of textiles. The fact that most of these finds came from parcels with well-known historical background offers a rare opportunity to relate the discovered textiles to their owners. It is also possible to link certain types of fabrics mentioned in written sources to actual archaeological finds. Combining archaeological and historical data enables us to shed some light on the question of using expensive textiles by townspeople in a late medieval Hanseatic town. A great correspondence of these sources as far as textile evidence is concerned can be observed: types of textiles listed in the sumptuary laws were successfully identified in the excavated evidence.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/40176502" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="0662d5ced4067d0fd8ecb232ce14ef8b" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":60398710,"asset_id":40176502,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/60398710/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="57060088" href="https://iaepan.academia.edu/AnnaRybarczyk">Anna Rybarczyk</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="57060088" type="text/json">{"id":57060088,"first_name":"Anna","last_name":"Rybarczyk","domain_name":"iaepan","page_name":"AnnaRybarczyk","display_name":"Anna Rybarczyk","profile_url":"https://iaepan.academia.edu/AnnaRybarczyk?f_ri=177724","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_40176502 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="40176502"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 40176502, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_40176502", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_40176502 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40176502; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_40176502"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_40176502 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="40176502"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40176502; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=40176502]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_40176502").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_40176502").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="40176502"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">9</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="128" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History">History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="128" type="text/json">{"id":128,"name":"History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="392" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology">Archaeology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="392" type="text/json">{"id":392,"name":"Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2320" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles">Textiles</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2320" type="text/json">{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="7870" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Archaeology">Medieval Archaeology</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="7870" type="text/json">{"id":7870,"name":"Medieval Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Archaeology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=40176502]'), work: {"id":40176502,"title":"TEXTILES AND SOCIAL STATUS. THE CASE OF LATE MEDIEVAL ELBLĄG","created_at":"2019-08-26T05:48:12.508-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/40176502/TEXTILES_AND_SOCIAL_STATUS_THE_CASE_OF_LATE_MEDIEVAL_ELBL%C4%84G?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_40176502","summary":"High quality textiles were unquestionably one of the most luxurious goods in the Middle Ages. Expensive fabrics, especially silks are recognised as indicators of the owner's high social status. The excavations conducted in Elbląg (Elbing) gave rise to a very interesting collection of textiles. The fact that most of these finds came from parcels with well-known historical background offers a rare opportunity to relate the discovered textiles to their owners. It is also possible to link certain types of fabrics mentioned in written sources to actual archaeological finds. Combining archaeological and historical data enables us to shed some light on the question of using expensive textiles by townspeople in a late medieval Hanseatic town. A great correspondence of these sources as far as textile evidence is concerned can be observed: types of textiles listed in the sumptuary laws were successfully identified in the excavated evidence.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":60398710,"asset_id":40176502,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":57060088,"first_name":"Anna","last_name":"Rybarczyk","domain_name":"iaepan","page_name":"AnnaRybarczyk","display_name":"Anna Rybarczyk","profile_url":"https://iaepan.academia.edu/AnnaRybarczyk?f_ri=177724","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":128,"name":"History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":392,"name":"Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":2320,"name":"Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Textiles?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":7870,"name":"Medieval Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Archaeology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":81894,"name":"Middle Ages","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Middle_Ages?f_ri=177724"},{"id":118681,"name":"Archaeological textiles and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeological_textiles_and_clothing?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":205746,"name":"Elbląg","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Elblag?f_ri=177724"},{"id":267812,"name":"Medieval Textiles and Clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Textiles_and_Clothing?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_42262599" data-work_id="42262599" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/42262599/La_est%C3%A9tica_en_Frida_Kahlo_representaciones_simb%C3%B3licas_de_la_indumentaria_Mesoamericana">La estética en Frida Kahlo: representaciones simbólicas de la indumentaria Mesoamericana</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Resumen: En el presente estudio analizamos la vestimenta de la pintora mexicana Frida Kahlo (1907-1954), enfatizando en la ornamentación de sus vestidos y blusas bordadas, centradas en los rasgos propios de la mujer mexicana. A través de... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_42262599" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Resumen: En el presente estudio analizamos la vestimenta de la pintora mexicana Frida Kahlo (1907-1954), enfatizando en la ornamentación de sus vestidos y blusas bordadas, centradas en los rasgos propios de la mujer mexicana. A través de este trabajo reflexionamos sobre las relaciones de la artista y las influencias en la moda. Así, revisamos esta nueva idea de la mujer indígena como modelo de distinción y originalidad en Europa y América, tanto de principios del siglo XX hasta la actualidad. De este modo, Frida es una de las primeras precursoras de una moda propiamente mesoamericana.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/42262599" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="327fc137499b1cc035771ce37acd8d7a" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":62414713,"asset_id":42262599,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/62414713/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="109405260" href="https://uahurtado.academia.edu/AndreaMoreno">Sonia Martínez Moreno</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="109405260" type="text/json">{"id":109405260,"first_name":"Sonia","last_name":"Martínez Moreno","domain_name":"uahurtado","page_name":"AndreaMoreno","display_name":"Sonia Martínez Moreno","profile_url":"https://uahurtado.academia.edu/AndreaMoreno?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/109405260/41580743/42444970/s65_sonia.mart_nez_moreno.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_42262599 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="42262599"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 42262599, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_42262599", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=42262599]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_42262599").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_42262599").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="42262599"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">10</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="188" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies">Cultural Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="188" type="text/json">{"id":188,"name":"Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="808" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Aesthetics">Aesthetics</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="808" type="text/json">{"id":808,"name":"Aesthetics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Aesthetics?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="915" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History">Art History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="915" type="text/json">{"id":915,"name":"Art History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2395" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Mexican_Studies">Mexican Studies</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="2395" type="text/json">{"id":2395,"name":"Mexican Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Mexican_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=42262599]'), work: {"id":42262599,"title":"La estética en Frida Kahlo: representaciones simbólicas de la indumentaria Mesoamericana","created_at":"2020-03-19T11:08:01.140-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/42262599/La_est%C3%A9tica_en_Frida_Kahlo_representaciones_simb%C3%B3licas_de_la_indumentaria_Mesoamericana?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_42262599","summary":"Resumen: En el presente estudio analizamos la vestimenta de la pintora mexicana Frida Kahlo (1907-1954), enfatizando en la ornamentación de sus vestidos y blusas bordadas, centradas en los rasgos propios de la mujer mexicana. A través de este trabajo reflexionamos sobre las relaciones de la artista y las influencias en la moda. Así, revisamos esta nueva idea de la mujer indígena como modelo de distinción y originalidad en Europa y América, tanto de principios del siglo XX hasta la actualidad. De este modo, Frida es una de las primeras precursoras de una moda propiamente mesoamericana.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":62414713,"asset_id":42262599,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":109405260,"first_name":"Sonia","last_name":"Martínez Moreno","domain_name":"uahurtado","page_name":"AndreaMoreno","display_name":"Sonia Martínez Moreno","profile_url":"https://uahurtado.academia.edu/AndreaMoreno?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/109405260/41580743/42444970/s65_sonia.mart_nez_moreno.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":188,"name":"Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":808,"name":"Aesthetics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Aesthetics?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":915,"name":"Art History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Art_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":2395,"name":"Mexican Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Mexican_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":3051,"name":"Contemporary Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Contemporary_Art?f_ri=177724"},{"id":14573,"name":"Mexican Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Mexican_Art?f_ri=177724"},{"id":29961,"name":"Frida Kahlo","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Frida_Kahlo?f_ri=177724"},{"id":123693,"name":"Symbols","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Symbols?f_ri=177724"},{"id":145250,"name":"Mexican culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Mexican_culture?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_35595361 coauthored" data-work_id="35595361" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/35595361/Modernization_of_Medieval_costume_reconstruction_methods_based_on_patterns_analysis">Modernization of Medieval costume reconstruction methods based on patterns analysis</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/35595361" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="eb749d10f0811de50dc6c752515e77b3" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":55461609,"asset_id":35595361,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/55461609/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="67730880" href="https://sutd-ru.academia.edu/AlekseiMoskvin">Aleksei Moskvin</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="67730880" type="text/json">{"id":67730880,"first_name":"Aleksei","last_name":"Moskvin","domain_name":"sutd-ru","page_name":"AlekseiMoskvin","display_name":"Aleksei Moskvin","profile_url":"https://sutd-ru.academia.edu/AlekseiMoskvin?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/67730880/17610466/17665198/s65_aleksei.moskvin.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-35595361">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-35595361"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://independent.academia.edu/%D0%95%D0%94%D1%83%D0%B1%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%B0">Екатерина Дубова</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-35595361'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-35595361').html(); 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container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_35595361 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="35595361"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 35595361; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=35595361]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_35595361").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_35595361").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="35595361"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">3</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5255" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Costume">History of Costume</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5255" type="text/json">{"id":5255,"name":"History of Costume","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Costume?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="177724" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="177724" type="text/json">{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=35595361]'), work: {"id":35595361,"title":"Modernization of Medieval costume reconstruction methods based on patterns analysis","created_at":"2018-01-06T08:45:59.997-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/35595361/Modernization_of_Medieval_costume_reconstruction_methods_based_on_patterns_analysis?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_35595361","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":55461609,"asset_id":35595361,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":67730880,"first_name":"Aleksei","last_name":"Moskvin","domain_name":"sutd-ru","page_name":"AlekseiMoskvin","display_name":"Aleksei Moskvin","profile_url":"https://sutd-ru.academia.edu/AlekseiMoskvin?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/67730880/17610466/17665198/s65_aleksei.moskvin.jpg"},{"id":75171772,"first_name":"Екатерина","last_name":"Дубова","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"ЕДубова","display_name":"Екатерина Дубова","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/%D0%95%D0%94%D1%83%D0%B1%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%B0?f_ri=177724","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":5255,"name":"History of Costume","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Costume?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_43808351" data-work_id="43808351" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/43808351/Fanning_the_flames_of_the_French_Revolution_a_curious_case_of_handheld_fans">Fanning the flames of the French Revolution: a curious case of handheld fans</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Elevating the fan to the status of a byword for the Ancien Régime went hand in glove with an expansion of a sign language which coordinated the rituals at the French court. It was forbidden to open a fan in the presence of the sovereign... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_43808351" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Elevating the fan to the status of a byword for the Ancien Régime went hand in glove with an expansion of a sign language which coordinated the rituals at the French court. It was forbidden to open a fan in the presence of the sovereign unless one was making a keynote speech in which case a fan was used as an articulatory aid for demonstration. After 1789, as an attribute of superfluous mores of the French aristocracy, a fan became the subject of satires which mocked the anachronism of the pre-revolutionary dress code. <br /> <br />By looking at several examples of fans which continued to circulate in revolutionary France, I argue that fans not only remained an accessory of great predilection in the 1790s but more importantly the fan was granted a new set of meanings thanks to its intrinsic properties. <br /> <br />In a broader context, my discussion on the use of fans during the Revolution will suggest some ways of thinking about a highly complex issue: what happened to objects regarded as indispensable attributes of a freshly overturned monarchy in the aftermath of the Revolution?</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/43808351" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="6cd13f6c1491acaf8a7c645228626f40" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":89239155,"asset_id":43808351,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/89239155/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="164711928" href="https://ucl.academia.edu/AdamWieclawski">Adam Wieclawski</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="164711928" type="text/json">{"id":164711928,"first_name":"Adam","last_name":"Wieclawski","domain_name":"ucl","page_name":"AdamWieclawski","display_name":"Adam Wieclawski","profile_url":"https://ucl.academia.edu/AdamWieclawski?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/164711928/46507415/101637003/s65_adam.wieclawski.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_43808351 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="43808351"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 43808351, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_43808351", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=43808351]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_43808351").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_43808351").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="43808351"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">17</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="863" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_Studies">Visual Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="863" type="text/json">{"id":863,"name":"Visual Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1181" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/French_History">French History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1181" type="text/json">{"id":1181,"name":"French History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/French_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="4652" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/French_Revolution">French Revolution</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="4652" type="text/json">{"id":4652,"name":"French Revolution","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/French_Revolution?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="4653" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historiography_of_the_French_Revolution">Historiography of the French Revolution</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="4653" type="text/json">{"id":4653,"name":"Historiography of the French Revolution","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historiography_of_the_French_Revolution?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=43808351]'), work: {"id":43808351,"title":"Fanning the flames of the French Revolution: a curious case of handheld fans","created_at":"2020-08-08T04:01:15.866-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/43808351/Fanning_the_flames_of_the_French_Revolution_a_curious_case_of_handheld_fans?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_43808351","summary":"Elevating the fan to the status of a byword for the Ancien Régime went hand in glove with an expansion of a sign language which coordinated the rituals at the French court. It was forbidden to open a fan in the presence of the sovereign unless one was making a keynote speech in which case a fan was used as an articulatory aid for demonstration. After 1789, as an attribute of superfluous mores of the French aristocracy, a fan became the subject of satires which mocked the anachronism of the pre-revolutionary dress code. \r\n\r\nBy looking at several examples of fans which continued to circulate in revolutionary France, I argue that fans not only remained an accessory of great predilection in the 1790s but more importantly the fan was granted a new set of meanings thanks to its intrinsic properties. \r\n\r\nIn a broader context, my discussion on the use of fans during the Revolution will suggest some ways of thinking about a highly complex issue: what happened to objects regarded as indispensable attributes of a freshly overturned monarchy in the aftermath of the Revolution? ","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":89239155,"asset_id":43808351,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":164711928,"first_name":"Adam","last_name":"Wieclawski","domain_name":"ucl","page_name":"AdamWieclawski","display_name":"Adam Wieclawski","profile_url":"https://ucl.academia.edu/AdamWieclawski?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/164711928/46507415/101637003/s65_adam.wieclawski.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":863,"name":"Visual Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":1181,"name":"French History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/French_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":4652,"name":"French Revolution","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/French_Revolution?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":4653,"name":"Historiography of the French Revolution","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historiography_of_the_French_Revolution?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":28374,"name":"Visual and Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_and_Cultural_Studies?f_ri=177724"},{"id":52162,"name":"18th Century Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/18th_Century_Fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":64132,"name":"Visual Antropology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_Antropology?f_ri=177724"},{"id":64633,"name":"Society","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Society?f_ri=177724"},{"id":167496,"name":"Marie Antoinette","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Marie_Antoinette?f_ri=177724"},{"id":172275,"name":"Jacques-Louis David","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Jacques-Louis_David?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":187490,"name":"Fans","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fans?f_ri=177724"},{"id":209232,"name":"European Hand Fans","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/European_Hand_Fans?f_ri=177724"},{"id":233901,"name":"History of Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":461372,"name":"Louis XVI","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Louis_XVI?f_ri=177724"},{"id":1034522,"name":"French Royal Court","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/French_Royal_Court?f_ri=177724"},{"id":2239207,"name":"French Revolutionary Architecture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/French_Revolutionary_Architecture?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_38239172" data-work_id="38239172" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/38239172/The_Games_Children_Play_Bruegel_s_Fun_Lady_Emelote_of_Calais_pdf">The Games Children Play Bruegel’s Fun - Lady Emelote of Calais.pdf</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">A Documentation paper for my entry in the Kingdom of Ealdormere Pentathlon competition in 2017. This paper is about the creation and hand sewing of a girls’ clothing – Flemish 1560 - Girl’s Smock, Kirtle, Gown/coat, Hat and Apron based on... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_38239172" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">A Documentation paper for my entry in the Kingdom of Ealdormere Pentathlon competition in 2017. This paper is about the creation and hand sewing of a girls’ clothing – Flemish 1560 - Girl’s Smock, Kirtle, Gown/coat, Hat and Apron based on a child in Pieter Bruegel The Elder’s Children’s Games painting.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/38239172" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="92e6de70a0e0f3713c226dcca8b5519b" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":58280770,"asset_id":38239172,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/58280770/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="21809475" href="https://uottawa.academia.edu/EmeloteofCalais">Erin A Thornton</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="21809475" type="text/json">{"id":21809475,"first_name":"Erin","last_name":"Thornton","domain_name":"uottawa","page_name":"EmeloteofCalais","display_name":"Erin A Thornton","profile_url":"https://uottawa.academia.edu/EmeloteofCalais?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/21809475/7505076/105964318/s65_erin.thornton.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_38239172 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="38239172"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 38239172, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_38239172", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_38239172 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 38239172; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_38239172"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_38239172 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="38239172"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 38239172; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=38239172]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_38239172").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_38239172").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="38239172"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="395" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Experimental_Archaeology">Experimental Archaeology</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="395" type="text/json">{"id":395,"name":"Experimental Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Experimental_Archaeology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2987" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Renaissance_Studies">Renaissance Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2987" type="text/json">{"id":2987,"name":"Renaissance Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Renaissance_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="14802" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/16th_Century_Netherlandish_Art">16th Century Netherlandish Art</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="14802" type="text/json">{"id":14802,"name":"16th Century Netherlandish Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/16th_Century_Netherlandish_Art?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="177724" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="177724" type="text/json">{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=38239172]'), work: {"id":38239172,"title":"The Games Children Play Bruegel’s Fun - Lady Emelote of Calais.pdf","created_at":"2019-01-28T17:23:07.641-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/38239172/The_Games_Children_Play_Bruegel_s_Fun_Lady_Emelote_of_Calais_pdf?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_38239172","summary":"A Documentation paper for my entry in the Kingdom of Ealdormere Pentathlon competition in 2017. This paper is about the creation and hand sewing of a girls’ clothing – Flemish 1560 - Girl’s Smock, Kirtle, Gown/coat, Hat and Apron based on a child in Pieter Bruegel The Elder’s Children’s Games painting.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":58280770,"asset_id":38239172,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":21809475,"first_name":"Erin","last_name":"Thornton","domain_name":"uottawa","page_name":"EmeloteofCalais","display_name":"Erin A Thornton","profile_url":"https://uottawa.academia.edu/EmeloteofCalais?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/21809475/7505076/105964318/s65_erin.thornton.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":395,"name":"Experimental Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Experimental_Archaeology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":2987,"name":"Renaissance Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Renaissance_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":14802,"name":"16th Century Netherlandish Art","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/16th_Century_Netherlandish_Art?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":645722,"name":"Historical Clothing and Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historical_Clothing_and_Textiles?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_30219816" data-work_id="30219816" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/30219816/Prodigal_Years_Negotiating_Luxury_and_Fashioning_Identity_in_a_Seventeenth_century_Account_Book_Luxury_3_1_2_2016_7_31">Prodigal Years? Negotiating Luxury and Fashioning Identity in a Seventeenth-century Account Book, Luxury, 3:1-2 (2016), 7-31.</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Focusing on the account book of the MP and antiquary Sir Edward Dering (1598–1644), which covers the decade of his life in which he came of age, was knighted, and embarked on an ambitious political and courtly career, this article argues... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_30219816" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Focusing on the account book of the MP and antiquary Sir Edward Dering (1598–1644), which covers the decade of his life in which he came of age, was knighted, and embarked on an ambitious political and courtly career, this article argues that his account book was a space in which Dering recorded momentous life events and meditated upon his purchases. Dering reveled in his attire, spending a great deal of money on it, as well as taking the time to record each element of its construction and decorative design in minute detail. Purchasing luxury goods – particularly clothing – was an important way for an ambitious politician to express his social, emotional and political links to patrons, and to show his suitability for promotion. While he begins the account book in 1619 by chastising himself for spending too much in a “prodigal year,” by the end of the account book in 1628, Dering seems content to buy expensive goods, including a costly linen damask tablecloth depicting the story of the prodigal son. This article traces Dering’s acquisition of luxury goods at home in Kent, in London and overseas, and places him in relation to contemporary discourses of luxury and prodigality. It argues that Dering’s consumption of luxury goods was part of a wider project of self-definition, which included having his portrait painted, and even forging his family history.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/30219816" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="64b84d276ab83f17be33b90550b6b32a" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":50678603,"asset_id":30219816,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/50678603/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="2171457" href="https://ucl.academia.edu/SophiePitman">Sophie Pitman</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="2171457" type="text/json">{"id":2171457,"first_name":"Sophie","last_name":"Pitman","domain_name":"ucl","page_name":"SophiePitman","display_name":"Sophie Pitman","profile_url":"https://ucl.academia.edu/SophiePitman?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/2171457/739358/21570834/s65_sophie.pitman.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_30219816 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="30219816"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 30219816, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_30219816", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_30219816 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 30219816; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_30219816"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_30219816 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="30219816"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 30219816; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=30219816]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_30219816").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_30219816").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="30219816"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">14</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1727" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History">Early Modern History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1727" type="text/json">{"id":1727,"name":"Early Modern History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2473" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies">Material Culture Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2473" type="text/json">{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="7238" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Heraldry">Heraldry</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="7238" type="text/json">{"id":7238,"name":"Heraldry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Heraldry?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="7297" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Autobiography">Autobiography</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="7297" type="text/json">{"id":7297,"name":"Autobiography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Autobiography?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=30219816]'), work: {"id":30219816,"title":"Prodigal Years? Negotiating Luxury and Fashioning Identity in a Seventeenth-century Account Book, Luxury, 3:1-2 (2016), 7-31.","created_at":"2016-12-02T07:15:41.054-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/30219816/Prodigal_Years_Negotiating_Luxury_and_Fashioning_Identity_in_a_Seventeenth_century_Account_Book_Luxury_3_1_2_2016_7_31?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_30219816","summary":"Focusing on the account book of the MP and antiquary Sir Edward Dering (1598–1644), which covers the decade of his life in which he came of age, was knighted, and embarked on an ambitious political and courtly career, this article argues that his account book was a space in which Dering recorded momentous life events and meditated upon his purchases. Dering reveled in his attire, spending a great deal of money on it, as well as taking the time to record each element of its construction and decorative design in minute detail. Purchasing luxury goods – particularly clothing – was an important way for an ambitious politician to express his social, emotional and political links to patrons, and to show his suitability for promotion. While he begins the account book in 1619 by chastising himself for spending too much in a “prodigal year,” by the end of the account book in 1628, Dering seems content to buy expensive goods, including a costly linen damask tablecloth depicting the story of the prodigal son. This article traces Dering’s acquisition of luxury goods at home in Kent, in London and overseas, and places him in relation to contemporary discourses of luxury and prodigality. It argues that Dering’s consumption of luxury goods was part of a wider project of self-definition, which included having his portrait painted, and even forging his family history.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":50678603,"asset_id":30219816,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":2171457,"first_name":"Sophie","last_name":"Pitman","domain_name":"ucl","page_name":"SophiePitman","display_name":"Sophie Pitman","profile_url":"https://ucl.academia.edu/SophiePitman?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/2171457/739358/21570834/s65_sophie.pitman.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1727,"name":"Early Modern History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":7238,"name":"Heraldry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Heraldry?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":7297,"name":"Autobiography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Autobiography?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":7321,"name":"History Of London","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_Of_London?f_ri=177724"},{"id":7353,"name":"Early Modern England","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_England?f_ri=177724"},{"id":9538,"name":"Consumer Behavior","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Consumer_Behavior?f_ri=177724"},{"id":13666,"name":"Consumer Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Consumer_Culture?f_ri=177724"},{"id":20485,"name":"Forgery, Fakery, Fraud","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Forgery_Fakery_Fraud?f_ri=177724"},{"id":25552,"name":"Consumption and Material Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Consumption_and_Material_Culture?f_ri=177724"},{"id":55695,"name":"Consumer Goods","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Consumer_Goods?f_ri=177724"},{"id":60199,"name":"Luxury","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Luxury?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":750676,"name":"Prodigal Son","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Prodigal_Son?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_40510022" data-work_id="40510022" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/40510022/EXTRAITS_Paris_Figures_de_mode_XIVe_XXIe_si%C3%A8cle_ce_que_disent_nos_v%C3%AAtements_Paris_%C3%89ditions_Parigramme_2019">EXTRAITS. « Paris - Figures de mode. XIVe-XXIe siècle, ce que disent nos vêtements », Paris, Éditions Parigramme, 2019</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">« Un vêtement nouveau, révolutionnant les garde-robes, vient rarement de nulle part. Le pourpoint du gentilhomme de cour est emprunté au chevalier en armure, le talon est masculin avant de devenir un symbole de féminité, le pantalon des... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_40510022" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">« Un vêtement nouveau, révolutionnant les garde-robes, vient rarement de nulle part. Le pourpoint du gentilhomme de cour est emprunté au chevalier en armure, le talon est masculin avant de devenir un symbole de féminité, le pantalon des hommes de 1789 déclasse la culotte aristocratique, la redingote n'est autre que le riding coat d'Outre-Manche adapté à la vie urbaine, la marinière conquiert la terre ferme... Ainsi vont les vestiaires : un vêtement s'impose en même temps qu'il passe d'un sexe à un autre, d'un pays à son voisin, d'une classe ou d'une profession à toute la société. En se détachant de sa fonction première, il se charge de codes et devient éloquent.<br />Dans ce jeu des adoptions et des transferts, Paris, capitale de la mode et plaque sensible de l'histoire, occupe une place toute particulière. Des uniformes militaires aux vêtements de travail, Soline Anthore Baptiste raconte l'histoire de ces étonnants détournements à travers soixante-dix pièces iconiques de la mode. » (Extrait de la 4ème de couverture)</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/40510022" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="46cb96faf19fd78533ed70c5b91d1fc9" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":60782402,"asset_id":40510022,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/60782402/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="9008493" href="https://unive.academia.edu/SolineAnthore">Soline Anthore</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="9008493" type="text/json">{"id":9008493,"first_name":"Soline","last_name":"Anthore","domain_name":"unive","page_name":"SolineAnthore","display_name":"Soline Anthore","profile_url":"https://unive.academia.edu/SolineAnthore?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/9008493/3345897/29752479/s65_soline.anthore.jpeg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_40510022 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="40510022"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 40510022, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_40510022", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_40510022 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40510022; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_40510022"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_40510022 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="40510022"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40510022; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=40510022]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_40510022").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_40510022").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="40510022"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="91839" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Paris">Paris</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="91839" type="text/json">{"id":91839,"name":"Paris","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Paris?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="177724" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="177724" type="text/json">{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="645722" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historical_Clothing_and_Textiles">Historical Clothing and Textiles</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="645722" type="text/json">{"id":645722,"name":"Historical Clothing and Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historical_Clothing_and_Textiles?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=40510022]'), work: {"id":40510022,"title":"EXTRAITS. « Paris - Figures de mode. XIVe-XXIe siècle, ce que disent nos vêtements », Paris, Éditions Parigramme, 2019","created_at":"2019-10-03T02:38:43.710-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/40510022/EXTRAITS_Paris_Figures_de_mode_XIVe_XXIe_si%C3%A8cle_ce_que_disent_nos_v%C3%AAtements_Paris_%C3%89ditions_Parigramme_2019?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_40510022","summary":"« Un vêtement nouveau, révolutionnant les garde-robes, vient rarement de nulle part. Le pourpoint du gentilhomme de cour est emprunté au chevalier en armure, le talon est masculin avant de devenir un symbole de féminité, le pantalon des hommes de 1789 déclasse la culotte aristocratique, la redingote n'est autre que le riding coat d'Outre-Manche adapté à la vie urbaine, la marinière conquiert la terre ferme... Ainsi vont les vestiaires : un vêtement s'impose en même temps qu'il passe d'un sexe à un autre, d'un pays à son voisin, d'une classe ou d'une profession à toute la société. En se détachant de sa fonction première, il se charge de codes et devient éloquent.\nDans ce jeu des adoptions et des transferts, Paris, capitale de la mode et plaque sensible de l'histoire, occupe une place toute particulière. Des uniformes militaires aux vêtements de travail, Soline Anthore Baptiste raconte l'histoire de ces étonnants détournements à travers soixante-dix pièces iconiques de la mode. » (Extrait de la 4ème de couverture)","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":60782402,"asset_id":40510022,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":9008493,"first_name":"Soline","last_name":"Anthore","domain_name":"unive","page_name":"SolineAnthore","display_name":"Soline Anthore","profile_url":"https://unive.academia.edu/SolineAnthore?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/9008493/3345897/29752479/s65_soline.anthore.jpeg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":91839,"name":"Paris","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Paris?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":645722,"name":"Historical Clothing and Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historical_Clothing_and_Textiles?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":911497,"name":"Histoire De La Mode","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Histoire_De_La_Mode?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_43890030" data-work_id="43890030" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/43890030/A_Cultural_History_of_Taylor_Swift_s_Aran_Sweater_RTE_">A Cultural History of Taylor Swift’s Aran Sweater (RTE)</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">RTE (Irish national broadcaster online article) How Swift’s album title (Folklore) and the accompanying photoshoot’s Aran sweater were calculated to signal authenticity.... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_43890030" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">RTE (Irish national broadcaster online article) How Swift’s album title (Folklore) and the accompanying photoshoot’s Aran sweater were calculated to signal authenticity.<br /><a href="https://www.rte.ie/brainstorm/2020/0817/1159600-aran-jumper-taylor-swift-fashion-ireland-steve-mcqueen-marilyn-monroe-clancy-brothers/" rel="nofollow">https://www.rte.ie/brainstorm/2020/0817/1159600-aran-jumper-taylor-swift-fashion-ireland-steve-mcqueen-marilyn-monroe-clancy-brothers/</a></div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li 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muchos caso posando ante el pincel que... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_40571500" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Las futuras monjas se preparaban para despedirse de la vida secular, entre otras cosas, alistando el mejor traje que usarían en su vida, mismo que sería empleado en la ceremonia de toma de velo y en muchos caso posando ante el pincel que las plasmaría para la posteridad y recuerdo de la familia. Esta breve entrada reúne algunos datos de estos actos en la Nueva España del siglo XVIII (hoy México) y evidencia el cuidado que las familias ponían en el magnífico vestuario mundano que acompañaría a la religiosa.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/40571500" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="354b10b18be514ce019495462492fbf5" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":65471006,"asset_id":40571500,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/65471006/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="6714963" href="https://unam1.academia.edu/MarthaSandovalVillegas">Martha Sandoval-Villegas</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="6714963" type="text/json">{"id":6714963,"first_name":"Martha","last_name":"Sandoval-Villegas","domain_name":"unam1","page_name":"MarthaSandovalVillegas","display_name":"Martha Sandoval-Villegas","profile_url":"https://unam1.academia.edu/MarthaSandovalVillegas?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/6714963/5183469/36002057/s65_martha.sandoval-villegas.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_40571500 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="40571500"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 40571500, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_40571500", }); 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itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/10037500/Dressing_the_Older_Woman_in_Post_Mao_China_Perspectives_from_Official_Feminist_Mass_Media_and_Ordinary_Chinese_Women">Dressing the Older Woman in Post-Mao China: Perspectives from Official Feminist Mass Media and Ordinary Chinese Women</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">This article examines Chinese discourses on dressing the aging female body as a window into the tensions involved in the historical transformation of habitus in early post-Mao China. Drawing on Chinese media articles and ethnographic... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_10037500" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">This article examines Chinese discourses on dressing the aging female body as a window into the tensions involved in the historical transformation of habitus in early post-Mao China. Drawing on Chinese media articles and ethnographic interviews conducted with Chinese women in their 40s-60s, the analysis compares depictions of new official ideals for older women’s dress that appeared in Chinese government-sponsored feminist mass media with ordinary older Chinese women’s personal sensibilities about dress. Assessing the applicability of dominant western feminist theories of gender, dress, and age, this article provides a historicized culture-specific application of practice theory, examining older women’s struggles with competing moral logics associated with past and present, and with official media versus personal experience. 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data-has-card-for-ri="1433" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="3858" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Photography">Fashion Photography</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="3858" type="text/json">{"id":3858,"name":"Fashion Photography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Photography?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=41276334]'), work: {"id":41276334,"title":"Interview with David Sims","created_at":"2019-12-12T07:59:51.768-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/41276334/Interview_with_David_Sims?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_41276334","summary":null,"downloadable_attachments":[{"id":61495666,"asset_id":41276334,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":38991984,"first_name":"William","last_name":"Simmons","domain_name":"harvard","page_name":"WilliamJSimmons","display_name":"William J Simmons","profile_url":"https://harvard.academia.edu/WilliamJSimmons?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/38991984/18151288/18139044/s65_william.simmons.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion 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Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/International_History_of_Fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":825941,"name":"Fashion Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Industry?f_ri=177724"},{"id":958225,"name":"Editorial Photography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Editorial_Photography?f_ri=177724"},{"id":2024985,"name":"Fashion models and art photography","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_models_and_art_photography?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_23006295" data-work_id="23006295" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/23006295/Violas_Missing_Clothes_The_Eunuch_Early_Modern_Clothing_and_Twelfth_Nights_Incomplete_Ending">Viola's Missing Clothes: The Eunuch, Early Modern Clothing, and Twelfth Night's Incomplete Ending</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">This paper examines the incomplete ending of Shakespeare's Twelfth Night created by the absence of Viola's female clothing and its relation to the antitheatrical and cultural fear that an actor could become the role he played. When Viola... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_23006295" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">This paper examines the incomplete ending of Shakespeare's Twelfth Night created by the absence of Viola's female clothing and its relation to the antitheatrical and cultural fear that an actor could become the role he played. When Viola lands in Illyria, she tells the captain that she will disguise herself as a eunuch and seek protection. Yet scholars have been at a loss as to what happens to Viola's plan; her eunuch disguise is often dismissed as an abandoned idea whose first mention was never amended. A dismissal of Viola's castrated identity, however, glosses over the troublesome rejection of the female Viola at the play's closure: the denial of her " woman's weeds " —strangely held by the captain in Act 1 who is strangely imprisoned by Malvolio—inhibits the genre's ritualized removal of disguise and return to the world beyond Viola's performance: Viola, instead of marrying Orsino, leaves the stage called " boy " and " Cesario, " continuing to bear the performed identity of the eunuch who is able to feel desire but never able to consummate it, her name and femaleness denied until a hypothetical " golden time " beyond the play's end. Working primarily with early modern theories of clothing alongside the text of Twelfth Night, I argue that Viola's continued performance of the eunuch theatrically presents the transformative power of costumes and their link to selfhood, a power that, without a change from his character's costume to his original clothes, makes an actor's adopted role difficult, if not impossible, to strip away.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/23006295" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="4fd9d652c10ba0e377d159fb747a8958" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":43518940,"asset_id":23006295,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/43518940/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="36932250" href="https://nyu.academia.edu/ChristinaSquitieri">Christina M Squitieri</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="36932250" type="text/json">{"id":36932250,"first_name":"Christina","last_name":"Squitieri","domain_name":"nyu","page_name":"ChristinaSquitieri","display_name":"Christina M Squitieri","profile_url":"https://nyu.academia.edu/ChristinaSquitieri?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/36932250/10531023/19064900/s65_christina.squitieri.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_23006295 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="23006295"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 23006295, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_23006295", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=23006295]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_23006295").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_23006295").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="23006295"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">11</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="3146" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Shakespeare">Shakespeare</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="3146" type="text/json">{"id":3146,"name":"Shakespeare","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Shakespeare?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5272" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Identity_Culture_">Identity (Culture)</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5272" type="text/json">{"id":5272,"name":"Identity (Culture)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Identity_Culture_?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5348" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Transformation">Transformation</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5348" type="text/json">{"id":5348,"name":"Transformation","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Transformation?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="9043" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Performance">Performance</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="9043" type="text/json">{"id":9043,"name":"Performance","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Performance?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=23006295]'), work: {"id":23006295,"title":"Viola's Missing Clothes: The Eunuch, Early Modern Clothing, and Twelfth Night's Incomplete Ending","created_at":"2016-03-08T12:39:54.584-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/23006295/Violas_Missing_Clothes_The_Eunuch_Early_Modern_Clothing_and_Twelfth_Nights_Incomplete_Ending?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_23006295","summary":"This paper examines the incomplete ending of Shakespeare's Twelfth Night created by the absence of Viola's female clothing and its relation to the antitheatrical and cultural fear that an actor could become the role he played. When Viola lands in Illyria, she tells the captain that she will disguise herself as a eunuch and seek protection. Yet scholars have been at a loss as to what happens to Viola's plan; her eunuch disguise is often dismissed as an abandoned idea whose first mention was never amended. A dismissal of Viola's castrated identity, however, glosses over the troublesome rejection of the female Viola at the play's closure: the denial of her \" woman's weeds \" —strangely held by the captain in Act 1 who is strangely imprisoned by Malvolio—inhibits the genre's ritualized removal of disguise and return to the world beyond Viola's performance: Viola, instead of marrying Orsino, leaves the stage called \" boy \" and \" Cesario, \" continuing to bear the performed identity of the eunuch who is able to feel desire but never able to consummate it, her name and femaleness denied until a hypothetical \" golden time \" beyond the play's end. Working primarily with early modern theories of clothing alongside the text of Twelfth Night, I argue that Viola's continued performance of the eunuch theatrically presents the transformative power of costumes and their link to selfhood, a power that, without a change from his character's costume to his original clothes, makes an actor's adopted role difficult, if not impossible, to strip away.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":43518940,"asset_id":23006295,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":36932250,"first_name":"Christina","last_name":"Squitieri","domain_name":"nyu","page_name":"ChristinaSquitieri","display_name":"Christina M Squitieri","profile_url":"https://nyu.academia.edu/ChristinaSquitieri?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/36932250/10531023/19064900/s65_christina.squitieri.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":3146,"name":"Shakespeare","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Shakespeare?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":5272,"name":"Identity (Culture)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Identity_Culture_?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":5348,"name":"Transformation","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Transformation?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":9043,"name":"Performance","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Performance?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":19456,"name":"Early Modern English drama","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Early_Modern_English_drama?f_ri=177724"},{"id":41671,"name":"Clothing Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothing_Culture?f_ri=177724"},{"id":99418,"name":"William Shakespeare","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/William_Shakespeare?f_ri=177724"},{"id":104686,"name":"Twelfth Night","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Twelfth_Night?f_ri=177724"},{"id":133620,"name":"Eunuchs","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Eunuchs?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":505895,"name":"Antitheatricalist Writings","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Antitheatricalist_Writings?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_40705936" data-work_id="40705936" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/40705936/As_marchandes_de_modes_e_o_vestido_chemise_%C3%A0_la_reine_1750_1790_">As marchandes de modes e o vestido chemise à la reine (1750-1790)</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">As marchandes de modes e o vestido chemise à la reine (1750-1790) Felipe Goebel* Revista Achiote.com-Revista Eletrônica de Moda v. v. 6, p. 76-93, 2018 RESUMO: O presente artigo analisa as mudanças estruturais do setor de produção de bens... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_40705936" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">As marchandes de modes e o vestido chemise à la reine (1750-1790) Felipe Goebel* Revista Achiote.com-Revista Eletrônica de Moda v. v. 6, p. 76-93, 2018 RESUMO: O presente artigo analisa as mudanças estruturais do setor de produção de bens indumentários no final do século XVIII na França. Busca elucidar as questões relacionadas ao surgimento de uma nova profissão e guilda feminina-marchandes de modes-responsável pela criação de tendências de estilo a serem seguidas e como isso foi fundamental para o alvorecer do sistema de moda. Palavras-chave: Moda; História da Moda; Antigo Regime. ABSTRACT: The present article analyzes the structural changes of the sector of production of clothing goods in the late eighteenth century in France. We try elucidate questions related to the emergence of a new feminine profession and guild-marchandes de modes-responsible for the creation of style trends to be followed and how this was fundamental to the dawn of a fashion system. "A moda é uma arte", declarou Mercier no Tableau de Paris. "Querida, triunfante arte, a qual, nesse século, tem recebido honras e distinções. Essa arte entra nos palácios de reis, onde recebe lisonjeiras boas vindas. A marchande de modes passa pelos guardas, para penetrar no apartamento onde a alta nobreza não pode entrar." 1 A moda historicamente detém uma poderosa força econômica na França, mas foi somente no final do século XVIII que ela passou a ser denominada, em jornais e revistas, como uma arte e não como um mero ramo do comercio. E os "artistas" responsáveis por essa chamada nova forma de arte eram exclusivamente mulheres, constituíam uma guilda independente e eram chamadas de marchandes de modes. As marchandes de modes são filhas do Setecentos. Antes do século XVIII, elas não se distinguiam dos merciers (mercadores de tecidos) e das couturières (costureiras). Isso devia-se as tradicionais Leis Suntuárias que definiam estritas leis reguladoras de guildas e afazeres, o que fazia com que os diversos ramos da economia indumentária fossem bem definidos e se aglutinassem. De fato, marchande de modes era uma definição tão nova no começo do Setecentos que os contemporâneos se esforçavam para defini-la. A Encyclopédie chama a atenção: "elas estabeleceram-se e se denominam dessa forma há muito pouco tempo; somente desde que deixaram inteiramente o comércio de artigos relacionados a roupa (la mercerie) e assumiram os negócios da moda (les affaires de la mode). 2 Uma importante distinção começava a ser feita entre roupas e moda, entre o processo técnico de cortar e costurar e o reino mais criativo de decorar e estilizar os trajes de um indivíduo. *Bacharel em História e mestrando em História Social no PPGHIS-UFRJ</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/40705936" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="09f2a8882739e9258ee8a1d023061fde" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":60990426,"asset_id":40705936,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/60990426/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="1025780" href="https://unirio.academia.edu/FelipeGoebel">Felipe Goebel</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="1025780" type="text/json">{"id":1025780,"first_name":"Felipe","last_name":"Goebel","domain_name":"unirio","page_name":"FelipeGoebel","display_name":"Felipe Goebel","profile_url":"https://unirio.academia.edu/FelipeGoebel?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1025780/1891185/145974630/s65_felipe.goebel.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_40705936 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="40705936"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 40705936, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_40705936", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_40705936 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40705936; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_40705936"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_40705936 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="40705936"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40705936; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=40705936]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_40705936").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_40705936").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="40705936"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">4</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="177724" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="177724" type="text/json">{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="214252" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historia_da_Moda">História da Moda</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="214252" type="text/json">{"id":214252,"name":"História da Moda","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historia_da_Moda?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="243136" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_system">Fashion system</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="243136" type="text/json">{"id":243136,"name":"Fashion system","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_system?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=40705936]'), work: {"id":40705936,"title":"As marchandes de modes e o vestido chemise à la reine (1750-1790)","created_at":"2019-10-22T23:01:00.406-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/40705936/As_marchandes_de_modes_e_o_vestido_chemise_%C3%A0_la_reine_1750_1790_?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_40705936","summary":"As marchandes de modes e o vestido chemise à la reine (1750-1790) Felipe Goebel* Revista Achiote.com-Revista Eletrônica de Moda v. v. 6, p. 76-93, 2018 RESUMO: O presente artigo analisa as mudanças estruturais do setor de produção de bens indumentários no final do século XVIII na França. Busca elucidar as questões relacionadas ao surgimento de uma nova profissão e guilda feminina-marchandes de modes-responsável pela criação de tendências de estilo a serem seguidas e como isso foi fundamental para o alvorecer do sistema de moda. Palavras-chave: Moda; História da Moda; Antigo Regime. ABSTRACT: The present article analyzes the structural changes of the sector of production of clothing goods in the late eighteenth century in France. We try elucidate questions related to the emergence of a new feminine profession and guild-marchandes de modes-responsible for the creation of style trends to be followed and how this was fundamental to the dawn of a fashion system. \"A moda é uma arte\", declarou Mercier no Tableau de Paris. \"Querida, triunfante arte, a qual, nesse século, tem recebido honras e distinções. Essa arte entra nos palácios de reis, onde recebe lisonjeiras boas vindas. A marchande de modes passa pelos guardas, para penetrar no apartamento onde a alta nobreza não pode entrar.\" 1 A moda historicamente detém uma poderosa força econômica na França, mas foi somente no final do século XVIII que ela passou a ser denominada, em jornais e revistas, como uma arte e não como um mero ramo do comercio. E os \"artistas\" responsáveis por essa chamada nova forma de arte eram exclusivamente mulheres, constituíam uma guilda independente e eram chamadas de marchandes de modes. As marchandes de modes são filhas do Setecentos. Antes do século XVIII, elas não se distinguiam dos merciers (mercadores de tecidos) e das couturières (costureiras). Isso devia-se as tradicionais Leis Suntuárias que definiam estritas leis reguladoras de guildas e afazeres, o que fazia com que os diversos ramos da economia indumentária fossem bem definidos e se aglutinassem. De fato, marchande de modes era uma definição tão nova no começo do Setecentos que os contemporâneos se esforçavam para defini-la. A Encyclopédie chama a atenção: \"elas estabeleceram-se e se denominam dessa forma há muito pouco tempo; somente desde que deixaram inteiramente o comércio de artigos relacionados a roupa (la mercerie) e assumiram os negócios da moda (les affaires de la mode). 2 Uma importante distinção começava a ser feita entre roupas e moda, entre o processo técnico de cortar e costurar e o reino mais criativo de decorar e estilizar os trajes de um indivíduo. *Bacharel em História e mestrando em História Social no PPGHIS-UFRJ","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":60990426,"asset_id":40705936,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":1025780,"first_name":"Felipe","last_name":"Goebel","domain_name":"unirio","page_name":"FelipeGoebel","display_name":"Felipe Goebel","profile_url":"https://unirio.academia.edu/FelipeGoebel?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/1025780/1891185/145974630/s65_felipe.goebel.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":214252,"name":"História da Moda","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historia_da_Moda?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":243136,"name":"Fashion system","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_system?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_15138763" data-work_id="15138763" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/15138763/Jak_vznikal_model_od%C4%9Bvu_Polyxeny_z_Pern%C5%A1tejna_2013">Jak vznikal model oděvu Polyxeny z Pernštejna, 2013</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest">PILNÁ, V. Jak vznikal model oděvu Polyxeny z Pernštejna. Zprávy památkové péče, 2013, roč. 73, č. 2, s. 113-116. ISSN: 1210-5538</div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/15138763" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="b7ff60dca01857cb01a8b4affbc3f5aa" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":39631072,"asset_id":15138763,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/39631072/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="34031775" href="https://npu.academia.edu/VeronikaPiln%C3%A1">Veronika Pilná</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="34031775" type="text/json">{"id":34031775,"first_name":"Veronika","last_name":"Pilná","domain_name":"npu","page_name":"VeronikaPilná","display_name":"Veronika Pilná","profile_url":"https://npu.academia.edu/VeronikaPiln%C3%A1?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/34031775/9995531/11147853/s65_veronika.piln_.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_15138763 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="15138763"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 15138763, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_15138763", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_15138763 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 15138763; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_15138763"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_15138763 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="15138763"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 15138763; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=15138763]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_15138763").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_15138763").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="15138763"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">3</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="177724" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="177724" type="text/json">{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="233901" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Fashion">History of Fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="233901" type="text/json">{"id":233901,"name":"History of Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=15138763]'), work: {"id":15138763,"title":"Jak vznikal model oděvu Polyxeny z Pernštejna, 2013","created_at":"2015-08-24T02:38:03.242-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/15138763/Jak_vznikal_model_od%C4%9Bvu_Polyxeny_z_Pern%C5%A1tejna_2013?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_15138763","summary":"PILNÁ, V. Jak vznikal model oděvu Polyxeny z Pernštejna. Zprávy památkové péče, 2013, roč. 73, č. 2, s. 113-116. ISSN: 1210-5538","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":39631072,"asset_id":15138763,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":34031775,"first_name":"Veronika","last_name":"Pilná","domain_name":"npu","page_name":"VeronikaPilná","display_name":"Veronika Pilná","profile_url":"https://npu.academia.edu/VeronikaPiln%C3%A1?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/34031775/9995531/11147853/s65_veronika.piln_.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":233901,"name":"History of Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_35260127" data-work_id="35260127" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/35260127/G_d_Bless_The_Dead_A_Calling_of_Names_pdf">G-d Bless The Dead: A Calling of Names.pdf</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">At the time [I wrote] this essay, I [was] completing a dissertation chapter that focuses on the " I Am… " t-shirts popularized over the past two decades. In the process I [was] forced to contend with the verbal and grammatical limitations... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_35260127" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">At the time [I wrote] this essay, I [was] completing a dissertation chapter that focuses on the " I Am… " t-shirts popularized over the past two decades. In the process I [was] forced to contend with the verbal and grammatical limitations of remembrance. This [absence of t-shirts focusing on black womxn] mirrors how women's issues are relegated to an afterthought in not only broad ranging political engagement, but also academic scholarship. [This essay formed the foundation of another dissertation chapter, "A Calling of Names", which focused on t-shirts that featured black women and black LBGT victims of police violence.] <br /> <br />Both chapters are part of my book manuscript in progress, COTTON FRAMED REVOLUTIONARIES: T-SHIRT CULTURE AND THE BLACK PROTEST TRADITION. <br /> <br />Citations: <br />1. McNair, Kimberly L. “G-d Bless the Dead: A Calling of Names,” The Diaspora Newsletter, a special collection: INSURGENCY: The Black Matter(s) Issue, Fall 2014 – Winter 2015 Edition, December 2014. Print & Web. <br />2. McNair, Kimberly L. "Cotton Framed Revolutionaries: T-Shirt Culture and the Black Protest Tradition.” PhD Dissertation, University of California, Berkeley, 2017. ProQuest.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/35260127" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="82ae2d693dcaadf3e0591b1dee5613a3" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":55120343,"asset_id":35260127,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/55120343/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="589567" href="https://stanford.academia.edu/KimberlyMcNair">Kimberly McNair</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="589567" type="text/json">{"id":589567,"first_name":"Kimberly","last_name":"McNair","domain_name":"stanford","page_name":"KimberlyMcNair","display_name":"Kimberly McNair","profile_url":"https://stanford.academia.edu/KimberlyMcNair?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/589567/3998723/17822618/s65_kimberly.mcnair.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_35260127 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="35260127"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 35260127, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_35260127", }); 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In the process I [was] forced to contend with the verbal and grammatical limitations of remembrance. This [absence of t-shirts focusing on black womxn] mirrors how women's issues are relegated to an afterthought in not only broad ranging political engagement, but also academic scholarship. [This essay formed the foundation of another dissertation chapter, \"A Calling of Names\", which focused on t-shirts that featured black women and black LBGT victims of police violence.]\r\n\r\nBoth chapters are part of my book manuscript in progress, COTTON FRAMED REVOLUTIONARIES: T-SHIRT CULTURE AND THE BLACK PROTEST TRADITION.\r\n\r\nCitations: \r\n1. McNair, Kimberly L. “G-d Bless the Dead: A Calling of Names,” The Diaspora Newsletter, a special collection: INSURGENCY: The Black Matter(s) Issue, Fall 2014 – Winter 2015 Edition, December 2014. Print \u0026 Web. \r\n2. McNair, Kimberly L. \"Cotton Framed Revolutionaries: T-Shirt Culture and the Black Protest Tradition.” PhD Dissertation, University of California, Berkeley, 2017. ProQuest. ","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":55120343,"asset_id":35260127,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":589567,"first_name":"Kimberly","last_name":"McNair","domain_name":"stanford","page_name":"KimberlyMcNair","display_name":"Kimberly McNair","profile_url":"https://stanford.academia.edu/KimberlyMcNair?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/589567/3998723/17822618/s65_kimberly.mcnair.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":208,"name":"Social Movements","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Social_Movements?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":296,"name":"Black Studies Or African American Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Black_Studies_Or_African_American_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":934,"name":"Media and Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Media_and_Cultural_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":11751,"name":"African American Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/African_American_Culture?f_ri=177724"},{"id":14413,"name":"Womanism","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womanism?f_ri=177724"},{"id":41671,"name":"Clothing Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothing_Culture?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":316717,"name":"Material History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_History?f_ri=177724"},{"id":584132,"name":"Black Feminisms","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Black_Feminisms?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_13070166 coauthored" data-work_id="13070166" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/13070166/The_Ancient_Felting_Techniques_in_Xinjiang">The Ancient Felting Techniques in Xinjiang</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Dated back to 8000 years ago, the felting techniques were originated from the fiber processing skills used by nomadic tribes in ancient Central Asia. Xinjiang, located in Northwest China, is one of the earliest regions in China using the... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_13070166" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Dated back to 8000 years ago, the felting techniques were originated from the fiber processing skills used by nomadic tribes in ancient Central Asia. Xinjiang, located in Northwest China, is one of the earliest regions in China using the felts. Since the Bronze Age, the residents of ancient Xinjiang had mastered the primitive felting techniques, which had been constantly improved during the latter course of history, leading to the felts with era characteristics. This paper puts archaeological evidences and historical documents together as its research materials, reviews the history development of the felting techniques in the ancient Xinjiang, and represents the main features of the felting techniques in different eras.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/13070166" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="18c2c7706f9757115f55e7bf627963f2" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":37936227,"asset_id":13070166,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/37936227/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="32492979" href="https://independent.academia.edu/XiangyangBian">Xiangyang Bian</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="32492979" type="text/json">{"id":32492979,"first_name":"Xiangyang","last_name":"Bian","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"XiangyangBian","display_name":"Xiangyang Bian","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/XiangyangBian?f_ri=177724","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-13070166">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-13070166"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://donghua.academia.edu/xiaoyuxin">xiaoyu xin</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-13070166'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-13070166').html(); 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Xinjiang, located in Northwest China, is one of the earliest regions in China using the felts. Since the Bronze Age, the residents of ancient Xinjiang had mastered the primitive felting techniques, which had been constantly improved during the latter course of history, leading to the felts with era characteristics. This paper puts archaeological evidences and historical documents together as its research materials, reviews the history development of the felting techniques in the ancient Xinjiang, and represents the main features of the felting techniques in different eras.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":37936227,"asset_id":13070166,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":32492979,"first_name":"Xiangyang","last_name":"Bian","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"XiangyangBian","display_name":"Xiangyang Bian","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/XiangyangBian?f_ri=177724","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"},{"id":3374810,"first_name":"xiaoyu","last_name":"xin","domain_name":"donghua","page_name":"xiaoyuxin","display_name":"xiaoyu xin","profile_url":"https://donghua.academia.edu/xiaoyuxin?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/3374810/1159774/1452527/s65_xiaoyu.xin.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":5255,"name":"History of Costume","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Costume?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":7231,"name":"Silk Road","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Silk_Road?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":7240,"name":"Silk Road Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Silk_Road_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":12017,"name":"Xinjiang","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Xinjiang?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":27026,"name":"Ancient Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ancient_Textiles?f_ri=177724"},{"id":33106,"name":"Ancient Craftmanship (Archaeology)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ancient_Craftmanship_Archaeology_?f_ri=177724"},{"id":43955,"name":"Ancient Textile Technology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Ancient_Textile_Technology?f_ri=177724"},{"id":118681,"name":"Archaeological textiles and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Archaeological_textiles_and_clothing?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_37901794" data-work_id="37901794" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/37901794/Identidad_y_Est%C3%A9tica_la_Antig%C3%BCedad_cl%C3%A1sica_en_la_moda_italiana_contempor%C3%A1nea">Identidad y Estética: la Antigüedad clásica en la moda italiana contemporánea</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Come esposto nel corso del Seminario “Comunicare l’antico Oggi”, tenutosi il 13 e 14 giugno 2018 presso la Escuela Española de Historia y Arqueología en Roma - CSIC, nel nostro contemporaneo sono disponibili numerosi strumenti che... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_37901794" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Come esposto nel corso del Seminario “Comunicare l’antico Oggi”, tenutosi il 13 e 14 giugno 2018 presso la Escuela Española de Historia y Arqueología en Roma - CSIC, nel nostro contemporaneo sono disponibili numerosi strumenti che permettono di diffondere e far conoscere la cultura dell’antico. Nella società odierna, che ha una delle sue principali caratteristiche nel valore dell’immagine, la moda gioca un ruolo fondamentale come veicolo di divulgazione di cultura e come generatore di identità collettive. Per questo motivo si tratta anche di uno strumento adeguato per la diffusione dell’immagine dell’Antichità, in maniera rinnovata, aggiornata e conforme ai tempi moderni, avendo tale ambito una speciale visibilità in Italia. Prova di ciò sono le collezioni di alcuni stilisti italiani come Versace, Valentino e Dolce & Gabbana, che raccogliendo la forza visiva delle risorse all’antichità, hanno contribuito a plasmare un valore estetico per l’Italia contemporanea che assimila la bellezza italiana attuale con quella classica e, in qualche modo, genera una recupero di identità quando la si distingue, ad esempio, dal resto delle mode europee. Antichità, moda e identità compongono, quindi, un trinomio chiave nell’attuale cultura italiana.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/37901794" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="fe3bf6dd3b0ba521f163135a4c8ab918" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":57911623,"asset_id":37901794,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/57911623/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="3826054" href="https://uam.academia.edu/PalomaMart%C3%ADnEsperanza">Paloma Martín-Esperanza</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="3826054" type="text/json">{"id":3826054,"first_name":"Paloma","last_name":"Martín-Esperanza","domain_name":"uam","page_name":"PalomaMartínEsperanza","display_name":"Paloma Martín-Esperanza","profile_url":"https://uam.academia.edu/PalomaMart%C3%ADnEsperanza?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/3826054/1396464/19399427/s65_paloma.mart_n-esperanza.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_37901794 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="37901794"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 37901794, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_37901794", }); 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Nella società odierna, che ha una delle sue principali caratteristiche nel valore dell’immagine, la moda gioca un ruolo fondamentale come veicolo di divulgazione di cultura e come generatore di identità collettive. Per questo motivo si tratta anche di uno strumento adeguato per la diffusione dell’immagine dell’Antichità, in maniera rinnovata, aggiornata e conforme ai tempi moderni, avendo tale ambito una speciale visibilità in Italia. Prova di ciò sono le collezioni di alcuni stilisti italiani come Versace, Valentino e Dolce \u0026 Gabbana, che raccogliendo la forza visiva delle risorse all’antichità, hanno contribuito a plasmare un valore estetico per l’Italia contemporanea che assimila la bellezza italiana attuale con quella classica e, in qualche modo, genera una recupero di identità quando la si distingue, ad esempio, dal resto delle mode europee. Antichità, moda e identità compongono, quindi, un trinomio chiave nell’attuale cultura italiana. \n\n ","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":57911623,"asset_id":37901794,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":3826054,"first_name":"Paloma","last_name":"Martín-Esperanza","domain_name":"uam","page_name":"PalomaMartínEsperanza","display_name":"Paloma Martín-Esperanza","profile_url":"https://uam.academia.edu/PalomaMart%C3%ADnEsperanza?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/3826054/1396464/19399427/s65_paloma.mart_n-esperanza.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":393,"name":"Classical Archaeology","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Classical_Archaeology?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":816,"name":"Classics","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Classics?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":997,"name":"Reception Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Reception_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":5272,"name":"Identity (Culture)","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Identity_Culture_?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724"},{"id":22599,"name":"Classical Reception Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Classical_Reception_Studies?f_ri=177724"},{"id":38945,"name":"Arqueología","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Arqueolog%C3%ADa?f_ri=177724"},{"id":39073,"name":"Reception of Antiquity","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Reception_of_Antiquity?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":612557,"name":"Estudios de Recepción","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Estudios_de_Recepcion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_49162162" data-work_id="49162162" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/49162162/Bent_out_of_Shape_Perpetuation_of_Corset_Myths_in_Media_By_O_Jol">Bent out of Shape: Perpetuation of Corset Myths in Media By O. Jol</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">There is a war afoot. One fought with pins and needles, cameras and cartoons. In the following article, I will begin with the history of the corset as an object plagued by misinformation, then I will introduce the misrepresentation of the... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_49162162" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">There is a war afoot. One fought with pins and needles, cameras and cartoons. In the following article, I will begin with the history of the corset as an object plagued by misinformation, then I will introduce the misrepresentation of the corset in moving pictures as an abuse of history. To conclude, I will look at the corset's treatment in media as a case study for the capacity of visual media to shape popular perception of history, offering a possible answer to the question: should ahistoricity in film be treated as a dangerous trend, or artistic expression?</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/49162162" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="dd2ccbb75c47efd7cb65cc9049434c77" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":67549278,"asset_id":49162162,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/67549278/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="100456838" href="https://uottawa.academia.edu/OJol">Olivia Jol</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="100456838" type="text/json">{"id":100456838,"first_name":"Olivia","last_name":"Jol","domain_name":"uottawa","page_name":"OJol","display_name":"Olivia Jol","profile_url":"https://uottawa.academia.edu/OJol?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/100456838/24833722/52316601/s65_olivia.jol.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_49162162 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="49162162"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 49162162, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_49162162", }); 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To conclude, I will look at the corset's treatment in media as a case study for the capacity of visual media to shape popular perception of history, offering a possible answer to the question: should ahistoricity in film be treated as a dangerous trend, or artistic expression?","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":67549278,"asset_id":49162162,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":100456838,"first_name":"Olivia","last_name":"Jol","domain_name":"uottawa","page_name":"OJol","display_name":"Olivia Jol","profile_url":"https://uottawa.academia.edu/OJol?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/100456838/24833722/52316601/s65_olivia.jol.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":1138,"name":"Women's Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion 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Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Women_and_Culture?f_ri=177724"},{"id":49663,"name":"Women and Gender Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Women_and_Gender_Studies?f_ri=177724"},{"id":50494,"name":"Women's Entrepreneurship","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Womens_Entrepreneurship?f_ri=177724"},{"id":61262,"name":"Trends and issues in global fashion/ apparel industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Trends_and_issues_in_global_fashion_apparel_industry?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":523981,"name":"Corsets","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Corsets?f_ri=177724"},{"id":638520,"name":"Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":767435,"name":"Corsetry in the Archaeological Record","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Corsetry_in_the_Archaeological_Record?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_53206233" data-work_id="53206233" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/53206233/The_Pocket_A_Hidden_History_of_Womens_Lives_1660_1900">The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women's Lives, 1660-1900</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/53206233" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i 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itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="34996550" href="https://arts-london.academia.edu/JessicaHarpley">Jessica Harpley</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="34996550" type="text/json">{"id":34996550,"first_name":"Jessica","last_name":"Harpley","domain_name":"arts-london","page_name":"JessicaHarpley","display_name":"Jessica Harpley","profile_url":"https://arts-london.academia.edu/JessicaHarpley?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/34996550/49795305/37782940/s65_jessica.harpley.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_53206233 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="53206233"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 53206233, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_53206233", }); });</script></li><li 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var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=53206233]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_53206233").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_53206233").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="53206233"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">11</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2272" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_History">Gender History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2272" type="text/json">{"id":2272,"name":"Gender History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gender_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5231" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Eighteenth_Century_History">Eighteenth Century History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5231" type="text/json">{"id":5231,"name":"Eighteenth Century History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Eighteenth_Century_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5256" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles">History of Textiles</a><script 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History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724"},{"id":33457,"name":"Material Culture","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture?f_ri=177724"},{"id":36432,"name":"Gendered Bodies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Gendered_Bodies?f_ri=177724"},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724"},{"id":260004,"name":"Long eighteenth-century","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Long_eighteenth-century?f_ri=177724"},{"id":1749622,"name":"Pockets","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Pockets?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_39752923 coauthored" data-work_id="39752923" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/39752923/Georgia_OKeeffe_Living_Modern_exhibition_review_">Georgia O'Keeffe: Living Modern (exhibition review)</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/39752923" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="f8f9dd646502df75677b9ad05bcc4a6e" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":60818226,"asset_id":39752923,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/60818226/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="30047529" href="https://csuohio.academia.edu/SamanthaBaskind">Samantha Baskind</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="30047529" type="text/json">{"id":30047529,"first_name":"Samantha","last_name":"Baskind","domain_name":"csuohio","page_name":"SamanthaBaskind","display_name":"Samantha 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InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="39752923"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 39752923; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=39752923]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_39752923").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_39752923").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="39752923"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="2473" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies">Material Culture Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="2473" type="text/json">{"id":2473,"name":"Material Culture Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Material_Culture_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="14082" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/American_art_Art_of_the_United_States">American art/ Art of the United States</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="14082" type="text/json">{"id":14082,"name":"American art/ Art of the United States","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/American_art_Art_of_the_United_States?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="81964" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothing">Clothing</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="81964" type="text/json">{"id":81964,"name":"Clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothing?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="105745" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Georgia_OKeeffe">Georgia O'Keeffe</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="105745" type="text/json">{"id":105745,"name":"Georgia O'Keeffe","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Georgia_OKeeffe?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=39752923]'), work: {"id":39752923,"title":"Georgia O'Keeffe: Living Modern (exhibition 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u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_41269462 coauthored" data-work_id="41269462" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/41269462/RECONSTRUCTION_OF_HISTORICAL_TEXTILE_FABRICS_AND_DRESSES_IN_VIRTUAL_REALITY">RECONSTRUCTION OF HISTORICAL TEXTILE FABRICS AND DRESSES IN VIRTUAL REALITY</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Main aim is to create a method of virtual reconstruction of historical clothes. We applied 2D CAD, Clo3D, and CG tools to find the relationship between outline shape of skirt, properties and construction of garments and textile materials.... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_41269462" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Main aim is to create a method of virtual reconstruction of historical clothes. We applied 2D CAD, Clo3D, and CG tools to find the relationship between outline shape of skirt, properties and construction of garments and textile materials. We used contemporary fabrics which are similar to historical prototypes by changing physical and mechanical properties. New method includes 3D-to-2D flattening; finding the air gaps in "avatar-skirt" system; choosing textile materials and number of underskirt garments; generating of digital replica. The adequacy of historical prototypes to its virtual replica is full due to CAD, new developed modules, and data base.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/41269462" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="47ad136507b1c84e9f4f9eb30763800a" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":61488117,"asset_id":41269462,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/61488117/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="67730880" href="https://sutd-ru.academia.edu/AlekseiMoskvin">Aleksei Moskvin</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="67730880" type="text/json">{"id":67730880,"first_name":"Aleksei","last_name":"Moskvin","domain_name":"sutd-ru","page_name":"AlekseiMoskvin","display_name":"Aleksei Moskvin","profile_url":"https://sutd-ru.academia.edu/AlekseiMoskvin?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/67730880/17610466/17665198/s65_aleksei.moskvin.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-41269462">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-41269462"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://independent.academia.edu/MariiaMoskvina">Mariia Moskvina</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-41269462'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-41269462').html(); 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container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_41269462 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="41269462"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 41269462; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=41269462]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_41269462").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_41269462").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="41269462"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">7</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1437" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress">History of Dress</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1437" type="text/json">{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="5256" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles">History of Textiles</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="5256" type="text/json">{"id":5256,"name":"History of Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="13658" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body">Dress and the Body</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="13658" type="text/json">{"id":13658,"name":"Dress and the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="177724" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="177724" type="text/json">{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=41269462]'), work: {"id":41269462,"title":"RECONSTRUCTION OF HISTORICAL TEXTILE FABRICS AND DRESSES IN VIRTUAL REALITY","created_at":"2019-12-11T12:26:11.280-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/41269462/RECONSTRUCTION_OF_HISTORICAL_TEXTILE_FABRICS_AND_DRESSES_IN_VIRTUAL_REALITY?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_41269462","summary":"Main aim is to create a method of virtual reconstruction of historical clothes. We applied 2D CAD, Clo3D, and CG tools to find the relationship between outline shape of skirt, properties and construction of garments and textile materials. We used contemporary fabrics which are similar to historical prototypes by changing physical and mechanical properties. New method includes 3D-to-2D flattening; finding the air gaps in \"avatar-skirt\" system; choosing textile materials and number of underskirt garments; generating of digital replica. The adequacy of historical prototypes to its virtual replica is full due to CAD, new developed modules, and data base.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":61488117,"asset_id":41269462,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":67730880,"first_name":"Aleksei","last_name":"Moskvin","domain_name":"sutd-ru","page_name":"AlekseiMoskvin","display_name":"Aleksei Moskvin","profile_url":"https://sutd-ru.academia.edu/AlekseiMoskvin?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/67730880/17610466/17665198/s65_aleksei.moskvin.jpg"},{"id":67768198,"first_name":"Mariia","last_name":"Moskvina","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"MariiaMoskvina","display_name":"Mariia Moskvina","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/MariiaMoskvina?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/67768198/18744170/38923452/s65_mariia.moskvina.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1437,"name":"History of Dress","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Dress?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":5256,"name":"History of Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":13658,"name":"Dress and the Body","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Dress_and_the_Body?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":406918,"name":"Apparel Industry","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Apparel_Industry?f_ri=177724"},{"id":645722,"name":"Historical Clothing and Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Historical_Clothing_and_Textiles?f_ri=177724"},{"id":917150,"name":"Clothes Making","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Clothes_Making?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_40335692" data-work_id="40335692" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/40335692/La_articulaci%C3%B3n_de_las_clases_sociales_de_la_monarqu%C3%ADa_hisp%C3%A1nica_a_trav%C3%A9s_de_las_pragm%C3%A1ticas_de_los_Austrias_en_el_lujo_y_en_el_vestir">La articulación de las clases sociales de la monarquía hispánica a través de las pragmáticas de los Austrias en el lujo y en el vestir</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Resumen: En el cuadro del confl icto entre la decadente nobleza hispánica de los siglos XV-XVII y la emergente burguesía comercial y productora, la indumenta-ria se afi rma como un documento historiográfi co, pero también como un de los... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_40335692" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Resumen: En el cuadro del confl icto entre la decadente nobleza hispánica de los siglos XV-XVII y la emergente burguesía comercial y productora, la indumenta-ria se afi rma como un documento historiográfi co, pero también como un de los centros mismos del confl icto. La burguesía verá en la exhibición del lujo una de las vías para apoyar su ascenso en la pirámide social, mientras que la nobleza tra-tará de limitar esta estrategia recurriendo a los viejos argumentos que legitiman la desigualdad y, por lo tanto, su hegemonía. La intervención de la monarquía a través de leyes pragmáticas, buscando proteger sus propios intereses, completa el panorama de esta crisis. Abstract: In the context of the confl ict between the decadent Spanish nobility of the XV-XVII centuries and the emerging commercial and productive bourgeoisie, clothing is affi rmed as a historiographical document, but also as one of the very centers of this confl ict itself. Bourgeoisie will see the luxury exhibition as one of the ways to support its own climbing in the social pyramid, while nobility will try to limit this strategy by appealing to the old arguments that legitimize inequality and, therefore, its hegemony. The intervention of the monarchy through pragmatic laws, seeking to protect their own interests, completes the panorama of that crisis.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/40335692" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="d61ddafd22d273577e015261eaf82d72" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":60579594,"asset_id":40335692,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/60579594/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="21911729" href="https://independent.academia.edu/AlbaRSilgo">Alba R. Silgo</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="21911729" type="text/json">{"id":21911729,"first_name":"Alba","last_name":"R. Silgo","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"AlbaRSilgo","display_name":"Alba R. Silgo","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/AlbaRSilgo?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/21911729/9812136/146079728/s65_alba.r._silgo.png"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_40335692 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="40335692"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 40335692, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_40335692", }); });</script></li><li class="js-percentile-work_40335692 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden u-tcGrayDark"><span class="percentile-widget hidden"><span class="u-mr2x percentile-widget" style="display: none">•</span><span class="u-mr2x work-percentile"></span></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40335692; window.Academia.workPercentilesFetcher.queue(workId, function (percentileText) { var container = $(".js-percentile-work_40335692"); container.find('.work-percentile').text(percentileText.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + percentileText.slice(1)); container.find('.percentile-widget').show(); container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_40335692 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="40335692"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 40335692; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=40335692]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_40335692").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_40335692").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="40335692"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">5</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="86962" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_textile_and_clothing">Fashion,textile and clothing</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="86962" type="text/json">{"id":86962,"name":"Fashion,textile and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_textile_and_clothing?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="177724" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="177724" type="text/json">{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=40335692]'), work: {"id":40335692,"title":"La articulación de las clases sociales de la monarquía hispánica a través de las pragmáticas de los Austrias en el lujo y en el vestir","created_at":"2019-09-13T01:52:04.943-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/40335692/La_articulaci%C3%B3n_de_las_clases_sociales_de_la_monarqu%C3%ADa_hisp%C3%A1nica_a_trav%C3%A9s_de_las_pragm%C3%A1ticas_de_los_Austrias_en_el_lujo_y_en_el_vestir?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_40335692","summary":"Resumen: En el cuadro del confl icto entre la decadente nobleza hispánica de los siglos XV-XVII y la emergente burguesía comercial y productora, la indumenta-ria se afi rma como un documento historiográfi co, pero también como un de los centros mismos del confl icto. La burguesía verá en la exhibición del lujo una de las vías para apoyar su ascenso en la pirámide social, mientras que la nobleza tra-tará de limitar esta estrategia recurriendo a los viejos argumentos que legitiman la desigualdad y, por lo tanto, su hegemonía. La intervención de la monarquía a través de leyes pragmáticas, buscando proteger sus propios intereses, completa el panorama de esta crisis. Abstract: In the context of the confl ict between the decadent Spanish nobility of the XV-XVII centuries and the emerging commercial and productive bourgeoisie, clothing is affi rmed as a historiographical document, but also as one of the very centers of this confl ict itself. Bourgeoisie will see the luxury exhibition as one of the ways to support its own climbing in the social pyramid, while nobility will try to limit this strategy by appealing to the old arguments that legitimize inequality and, therefore, its hegemony. The intervention of the monarchy through pragmatic laws, seeking to protect their own interests, completes the panorama of that crisis.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":60579594,"asset_id":40335692,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":21911729,"first_name":"Alba","last_name":"R. Silgo","domain_name":"independent","page_name":"AlbaRSilgo","display_name":"Alba R. Silgo","profile_url":"https://independent.academia.edu/AlbaRSilgo?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/21911729/9812136/146079728/s65_alba.r._silgo.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":86962,"name":"Fashion,textile and clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_textile_and_clothing?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":267812,"name":"Medieval Textiles and Clothing","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Medieval_Textiles_and_Clothing?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_15024872 coauthored" data-work_id="15024872" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/15024872/Kyn%C5%BEvartsk%C3%A9_st%C5%99ev%C3%ADce_z_p%C5%99edb%C4%9Blohorsk%C3%A9ho_obdob%C3%AD_2011">Kynžvartské střevíce z předbělohorského období, 2011</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">s Martinou Ohlídalovou, NM Zprávy památkové péče 2011/71, číslo: 6, str: 428–432 Rubrika: Materiálie, studie - URL pro citaci: <a href="http://zpp.npu.cz/clanek-6626" rel="nofollow">http://zpp.npu.cz/clanek-6626</a> EN: One of the more peculiar and unique items of the Kynžvart castle fund is... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_15024872" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">s Martinou Ohlídalovou, NM <br />Zprávy památkové péče 2011/71, číslo: 6, str: 428–432 <br />Rubrika: Materiálie, studie - URL pro citaci: <a href="http://zpp.npu.cz/clanek-6626" rel="nofollow">http://zpp.npu.cz/clanek-6626</a> <br /> <br />EN: One of the more peculiar and unique items of the Kynžvart castle fund is two examples of preserved shoes from the beginning of the 17th century. These are pairs of ladies' and men's shoes on long-term loan to the castle's exhibition in Velhartice, where they illustrate early Renaissance fashion in the Renaissance bedroom. The paper describes these two important exhibits in detail and presents the results of their technological and material analyses. It goes on to address the unclear origin of the shoes, their iconography, and preserved analogies. The results presented in the study acquaint the reader with the production and history of ladies' and men's shoes from the Kynžvart Castle fund and add information to provide a wider perspective on historical fashion and the history of footwear. <br /> <br />DE: Zu den Raritäten des Mobiliarfonds auf Schloss Kynžvart gehören zwei erhaltene Schuhexemplare aus dem frühen 17. Jahrhundert. Es handelte sich um je einen Damen- und Herrenschuh, die langfristig an die Dauerschau auf der Burg in Velhartice ausgeliehen wurden, wo sie in einem Renaissance-Schlafgemach die Mode der frühen Neuzeit illustrieren. Der Beitrag widmet sich eingehend der Beschreibung beider dieser bedeutenden Schaustücke und präsentiert auch die Resultate von deren Technologie- und Materialanalyse. Ferner befasst er sich mit dem Studium ihrer ungeklärten Herkunft, ihrer Ikonographie sowie erhaltenen Gegenstücken. Die Studienresultate präsentieren Herstellung und Geschichte des Damen- und Herrenschuhs aus dem Mobiliarfond von Schloss Kynžvart und tragen aufschlussreich zu einer breiteren Sicht der historischen Mode und Schuhwerkgeschichte bei. <br /> <br />CZ: Ke zvláštnostem a unikátům mobiliárního fondu zámku Kynžvart patří dva exempláře dochované obuvi z počátku 17. století. Jedná se o dámský a pánský střevíc dlouhodobě zapůjčený do expozice hradu ve Velharticích, kde v renesanční ložnici ilustrují módu raného novověku. Příspěvek se detailně věnuje popisu obou těchto významné exponátů a prezentuje výsledky jejich technologického a materiálového rozboru. Dále se zabývá studiem nejasného původu střevíců, jejich ikonografií a dochovanými analogiemi. Výsledky prezentované studie přibližují výrobu a historii dámského a pánského střevíce z mobiliárního fondu Kynžvartského zámku a informačně přispívají do širšího pohledu historické módy a dějin obuvi.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/15024872" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="b1e8607dd0532eb310a894896b6f0698" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":38511000,"asset_id":15024872,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/38511000/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="34031775" href="https://npu.academia.edu/VeronikaPiln%C3%A1">Veronika Pilná</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="34031775" type="text/json">{"id":34031775,"first_name":"Veronika","last_name":"Pilná","domain_name":"npu","page_name":"VeronikaPilná","display_name":"Veronika Pilná","profile_url":"https://npu.academia.edu/VeronikaPiln%C3%A1?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/34031775/9995531/11147853/s65_veronika.piln_.jpg"}</script></span></span><span class="u-displayInlineBlock InlineList-item-text"> and <span class="u-textDecorationUnderline u-clickable InlineList-item-text js-work-more-authors-15024872">+1</span><div class="hidden js-additional-users-15024872"><div><span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a href="https://vscht.academia.edu/MartinaOhl%C3%ADdalov%C3%A1">Martina Ohlídalová</a></span></div></div></span><script>(function(){ var popoverSettings = { el: $('.js-work-more-authors-15024872'), placement: 'bottom', hide_delay: 200, html: true, content: function(){ return $('.js-additional-users-15024872').html(); 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container.find('.percentile-widget').removeClass('hidden'); }); });</script></li><li class="js-view-count-work_15024872 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><div><span><span class="js-view-count view-count u-mr2x" data-work-id="15024872"><i class="fa fa-spinner fa-spin"></i></span><script>$(function () { var workId = 15024872; window.Academia.workViewCountsFetcher.queue(workId, function (count) { var description = window.$h.commaizeInt(count) + " " + window.$h.pluralize(count, 'View'); $(".js-view-count[data-work-id=15024872]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_15024872").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_15024872").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="15024872"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">2</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl9x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="177724" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="177724" type="text/json">{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=15024872]'), work: {"id":15024872,"title":"Kynžvartské střevíce z předbělohorského období, 2011","created_at":"2015-08-18T21:53:24.634-07:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/15024872/Kyn%C5%BEvartsk%C3%A9_st%C5%99ev%C3%ADce_z_p%C5%99edb%C4%9Blohorsk%C3%A9ho_obdob%C3%AD_2011?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_15024872","summary":"s Martinou Ohlídalovou, NM\r\nZprávy památkové péče 2011/71, číslo: 6, str: 428–432\r\nRubrika: Materiálie, studie - URL pro citaci: http://zpp.npu.cz/clanek-6626\r\n\r\nEN: One of the more peculiar and unique items of the Kynžvart castle fund is two examples of preserved shoes from the beginning of the 17th century. These are pairs of ladies' and men's shoes on long-term loan to the castle's exhibition in Velhartice, where they illustrate early Renaissance fashion in the Renaissance bedroom. The paper describes these two important exhibits in detail and presents the results of their technological and material analyses. It goes on to address the unclear origin of the shoes, their iconography, and preserved analogies. The results presented in the study acquaint the reader with the production and history of ladies' and men's shoes from the Kynžvart Castle fund and add information to provide a wider perspective on historical fashion and the history of footwear.\r\n\r\nDE: Zu den Raritäten des Mobiliarfonds auf Schloss Kynžvart gehören zwei erhaltene Schuhexemplare aus dem frühen 17. Jahrhundert. Es handelte sich um je einen Damen- und Herrenschuh, die langfristig an die Dauerschau auf der Burg in Velhartice ausgeliehen wurden, wo sie in einem Renaissance-Schlafgemach die Mode der frühen Neuzeit illustrieren. Der Beitrag widmet sich eingehend der Beschreibung beider dieser bedeutenden Schaustücke und präsentiert auch die Resultate von deren Technologie- und Materialanalyse. Ferner befasst er sich mit dem Studium ihrer ungeklärten Herkunft, ihrer Ikonographie sowie erhaltenen Gegenstücken. Die Studienresultate präsentieren Herstellung und Geschichte des Damen- und Herrenschuhs aus dem Mobiliarfond von Schloss Kynžvart und tragen aufschlussreich zu einer breiteren Sicht der historischen Mode und Schuhwerkgeschichte bei. \r\n\r\nCZ: Ke zvláštnostem a unikátům mobiliárního fondu zámku Kynžvart patří dva exempláře dochované obuvi z počátku 17. století. Jedná se o dámský a pánský střevíc dlouhodobě zapůjčený do expozice hradu ve Velharticích, kde v renesanční ložnici ilustrují módu raného novověku. Příspěvek se detailně věnuje popisu obou těchto významné exponátů a prezentuje výsledky jejich technologického a materiálového rozboru. Dále se zabývá studiem nejasného původu střevíců, jejich ikonografií a dochovanými analogiemi. Výsledky prezentované studie přibližují výrobu a historii dámského a pánského střevíce z mobiliárního fondu Kynžvartského zámku a informačně přispívají do širšího pohledu historické módy a dějin obuvi.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":38511000,"asset_id":15024872,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":34031775,"first_name":"Veronika","last_name":"Pilná","domain_name":"npu","page_name":"VeronikaPilná","display_name":"Veronika Pilná","profile_url":"https://npu.academia.edu/VeronikaPiln%C3%A1?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/34031775/9995531/11147853/s65_veronika.piln_.jpg"},{"id":34282395,"first_name":"Martina","last_name":"Ohlídalová","domain_name":"vscht","page_name":"MartinaOhlídalová","display_name":"Martina Ohlídalová","profile_url":"https://vscht.academia.edu/MartinaOhl%C3%ADdalov%C3%A1?f_ri=177724","photo":"/images/s65_no_pic.png"}],"research_interests":[{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_9448949" data-work_id="9448949" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/9448949/_2015_De_lhabit_au_costume_L_image_du_v%C3%AAtement_comme_marqueur_de_temporalit%C3%A9_">[2015] « De l'habit au costume : L’image du vêtement comme marqueur de temporalité »,</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Le chapitre part d'une réflexion sur la relation qu'entretiennent le vêtement et le temps dans notre culture visuelle. Une iconographie vestimentaire spécifiquement dédiée à l'habit apparaît en effet à la Renaissance. Petit à petit, dans... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_9448949" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Le chapitre part d'une réflexion sur la relation qu'entretiennent le vêtement et le temps dans notre culture visuelle. Une iconographie vestimentaire spécifiquement dédiée à l'habit apparaît en effet à la Renaissance. Petit à petit, dans la représentation par l'image, l'habit passe du statut d'emblème identifiant l'espace à celui d'identifiant du temps, temps historique et temps de la mode. Intégré à un discours historique au XIXe siècle, l'habit se fait costume et intègre l'échelle du temps dont il se fait le marqueur visuel dans les ouvrages illustrés consacrés à son histoire propre et à l'instruction à l'histoire nationale. Le cinéma s'empare au XXe siècle de la narration historique et use de l'apparence des personnages comme un marqueur de temporalités dans le genre du « film à costumes ».</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/9448949" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="465b5ffbde7e03d1ba7fe18f62dd9f43" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":57321573,"asset_id":9448949,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/57321573/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="15466775" href="https://univ-lille.academia.edu/IsabelleParesys">Isabelle Paresys</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="15466775" type="text/json">{"id":15466775,"first_name":"Isabelle","last_name":"Paresys","domain_name":"univ-lille","page_name":"IsabelleParesys","display_name":"Isabelle Paresys","profile_url":"https://univ-lille.academia.edu/IsabelleParesys?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/15466775/4176364/158452716/s65_isabelle.paresys.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_9448949 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="9448949"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 9448949, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_9448949", }); 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$(".js-view-count[data-work-id=9448949]").text(description); $(".js-view-count-work_9448949").attr('title', description).tooltip(); }); });</script></span><script>$(function() { $(".js-view-count-work_9448949").removeClass('hidden') })</script></div></li><li class="InlineList-item u-positionRelative" style="max-width: 250px"><div class="u-positionAbsolute" data-has-card-for-ri-list="9448949"><i class="fa fa-tag InlineList-item-icon u-positionRelative"></i> <a class="InlineList-item-text u-positionRelative">11</a> </div><span class="InlineList-item-text u-textTruncate u-pl10x"><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="136" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History">Cultural History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="136" type="text/json">{"id":136,"name":"Cultural History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="188" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies">Cultural Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="188" type="text/json">{"id":188,"name":"Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="863" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_Studies">Visual Studies</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="863" type="text/json">{"id":863,"name":"Visual Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="1433" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory">Fashion Theory</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="1433" type="text/json">{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion Theory","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_Theory?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=9448949]'), work: {"id":9448949,"title":"[2015] « De l'habit au costume : L’image du vêtement comme marqueur de temporalité »,","created_at":"2014-11-22T18:49:41.312-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/9448949/_2015_De_lhabit_au_costume_L_image_du_v%C3%AAtement_comme_marqueur_de_temporalit%C3%A9_?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_9448949","summary":"Le chapitre part d'une réflexion sur la relation qu'entretiennent le vêtement et le temps dans notre culture visuelle. Une iconographie vestimentaire spécifiquement dédiée à l'habit apparaît en effet à la Renaissance. Petit à petit, dans la représentation par l'image, l'habit passe du statut d'emblème identifiant l'espace à celui d'identifiant du temps, temps historique et temps de la mode. Intégré à un discours historique au XIXe siècle, l'habit se fait costume et intègre l'échelle du temps dont il se fait le marqueur visuel dans les ouvrages illustrés consacrés à son histoire propre et à l'instruction à l'histoire nationale. Le cinéma s'empare au XXe siècle de la narration historique et use de l'apparence des personnages comme un marqueur de temporalités dans le genre du « film à costumes ». ","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":57321573,"asset_id":9448949,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":15466775,"first_name":"Isabelle","last_name":"Paresys","domain_name":"univ-lille","page_name":"IsabelleParesys","display_name":"Isabelle Paresys","profile_url":"https://univ-lille.academia.edu/IsabelleParesys?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/15466775/4176364/158452716/s65_isabelle.paresys.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":136,"name":"Cultural History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":188,"name":"Cultural Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Cultural_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":863,"name":"Visual Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Visual_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":1433,"name":"Fashion 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data-has-card-for-ri="177724" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion">History of clothing and fashion</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="177724" type="text/json">{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="416127" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Court_Studies">Court Studies</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="416127" type="text/json">{"id":416127,"name":"Court Studies","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Court_Studies?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=8040956]'), work: {"id":8040956,"title":"[2011]« Se vêtir à la cour en Europe (1400-1815), une introduction 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itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/44739235/Fashion_Design_Course_Principles_Practice_and_Techniques_The_Practical_Guide_for_Aspiring_Fashion_Designers">Fashion Design Course: Principles, Practice, and Techniques: The Practical Guide for Aspiring Fashion Designers.</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">Textbook examines fashion design through theory- and skill-based applications. Diverse approaches to the design process and research methods, historical context, textiles and knitwear, portfolio structures, and professional development... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_44739235" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">Textbook examines fashion design through theory- and skill-based applications. Diverse approaches to the design process and research methods, historical context, textiles and knitwear, portfolio structures, and professional development are reviewed. Featured on international college-level required reading lists. Translated into 9 languages including Chinese, Portuguese, Italian, Spanish, Czech, and German. Over 120,000 copies sold globally.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/44739235" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="f1b7f3daddc20a289e28dfb4d2892402" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":99547448,"asset_id":44739235,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/99547448/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="46393171" href="https://mitpressjournals.academia.edu/StevenFaerm">Steven Faerm</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="46393171" type="text/json">{"id":46393171,"first_name":"Steven","last_name":"Faerm","domain_name":"mitpressjournals","page_name":"StevenFaerm","display_name":"Steven Faerm","profile_url":"https://mitpressjournals.academia.edu/StevenFaerm?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/46393171/32721438/29461512/s65_steven.faerm.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_44739235 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="44739235"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 44739235, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_44739235", }); 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Diverse approaches to the design process and research methods, historical context, textiles and knitwear, portfolio structures, and professional development are reviewed. Featured on international college-level required reading lists. Translated into 9 languages including Chinese, Portuguese, Italian, Spanish, Czech, and German. Over 120,000 copies sold globally.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":99547448,"asset_id":44739235,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":46393171,"first_name":"Steven","last_name":"Faerm","domain_name":"mitpressjournals","page_name":"StevenFaerm","display_name":"Steven Faerm","profile_url":"https://mitpressjournals.academia.edu/StevenFaerm?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/46393171/32721438/29461512/s65_steven.faerm.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1094,"name":"Fashion design","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_design?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":1903,"name":"Design education","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design_education?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":156119,"name":"Global Fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Global_Fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":177724,"name":"History of clothing and fashion","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_clothing_and_fashion?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false},{"id":618244,"name":"Design Sketching","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Design_Sketching?f_ri=177724"},{"id":2753682,"name":"fashion design education","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/fashion_design_education?f_ri=177724"}]}, }) } })();</script></ul></li></ul></div></div><div class="u-borderBottom1 u-borderColorGrayLighter"><div class="clearfix u-pv7x u-mb0x js-work-card work_29323764" data-work_id="29323764" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="https://schema.org/ScholarlyArticle"><div class="header"><div class="title u-fontSerif u-fs22 u-lineHeight1_3"><a class="u-tcGrayDarkest js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/29323764/Society_Steeped_in_Fashion_Department_Stores_and_Tea_Rooms_at_the_Turn_of_the_Twentieth_Century">Society Steeped in Fashion: Department Stores and Tea Rooms at the Turn of the Twentieth Century</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest"><div class="summarized">The advent of the tea room during the adolescence of the department store is not of little significance. This short essay compares two chapters by different authors, from different books, exploring the ways that turn-of-the-century tea... <a class="more_link u-tcGrayDark u-linkUnstyled" data-container=".work_29323764" data-show=".complete" data-hide=".summarized" data-more-link-behavior="true" href="#">more</a></div><div class="complete hidden">The advent of the tea room during the adolescence of the department store is not of little significance. This short essay compares two chapters by different authors, from different books, exploring the ways that turn-of-the-century tea rooms and department stores introduced material wealth and 'feminine sensibilities' that complicated social hierarchies. Gender, class and perceived moral goodness play into a new social structure that valued specific behaviors and tastes. Though these new institutions played a supposedly democratizing or gentrifying role, we shall see they often precluded access to the very groups they were meant to elevate.</div></div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/29323764" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="85816841496acdd6c56a51e454dcff5b" rel="nofollow" data-download="{"attachment_id":49763429,"asset_id":29323764,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false,"track":null,"button_location":"work_strip","source":null,"hide_modal":null}" class="Button Button--sm Button--inverseGreen js-download-button prompt_button doc_download" href="https://www.academia.edu/attachments/49763429/download_file?st=MTczMzI2MzM5Miw4LjIyMi4yMDguMTQ2&s=work_strip"><i class="fa fa-arrow-circle-o-down fa-lg"></i><span class="u-textUppercase u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Download</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><ul class="InlineList InlineList--bordered u-ph0x"><li class="InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered"><span class="InlineList-item-text">by <span itemscope="itemscope" itemprop="author" itemtype="https://schema.org/Person"><a class="u-tcGrayDark u-fw700" data-has-card-for-user="27170503" href="https://uoguelph.academia.edu/JackFallon">Jack Fallon</a><script data-card-contents-for-user="27170503" type="text/json">{"id":27170503,"first_name":"Jack","last_name":"Fallon","domain_name":"uoguelph","page_name":"JackFallon","display_name":"Jack Fallon","profile_url":"https://uoguelph.academia.edu/JackFallon?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/27170503/7689452/12581365/s65_jack.fallon.jpg"}</script></span></span></li><li class="js-paper-rank-work_29323764 InlineList-item InlineList-item--bordered hidden"><span class="js-paper-rank-view hidden u-tcGrayDark" data-paper-rank-work-id="29323764"><i class="u-m1x fa fa-bar-chart"></i><strong class="js-paper-rank"></strong></span><script>$(function() { new Works.PaperRankView({ workId: 29323764, container: ".js-paper-rank-work_29323764", }); 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js-work-link" href="https://www.academia.edu/10003690/_Designing_Synthetics_Promoting_Brands_Dorothy_Liebes_DuPont_Fibres_and_Post_war_American_Interiors_">"Designing Synthetics, Promoting Brands: Dorothy Liebes, DuPont Fibres and Post-war American Interiors"</a></div></div><div class="u-pb4x u-mt3x"><div class="summary u-fs14 u-fw300 u-lineHeight1_5 u-tcGrayDarkest">Article in the "Journal of Design History" 21, no. 1 (2008): 75-99.</div></div><ul class="InlineList u-ph0x u-fs13"><li class="InlineList-item logged_in_only"><div class="share_on_academia_work_button"><a class="academia_share Button Button--inverseBlue Button--sm js-bookmark-button" data-academia-share="Work/10003690" data-share-source="work_strip" data-spinner="small_white_hide_contents"><i class="fa fa-plus"></i><span class="work-strip-link-text u-ml1x" data-content="button_text">Bookmark</span></a></div></li><li class="InlineList-item"><div class="download"><a id="538670a0969728f34d79de91a76d62e2" rel="nofollow" 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type="text/json">{"id":5256,"name":"History of Textiles","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/History_of_Textiles?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="8357" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History">Fashion History</a>, <script data-card-contents-for-ri="8357" type="text/json">{"id":8357,"name":"Fashion History","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Fashion_History?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script><a class="InlineList-item-text" data-has-card-for-ri="80670" href="https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Synthetic_Fibers">Synthetic Fibers</a><script data-card-contents-for-ri="80670" type="text/json">{"id":80670,"name":"Synthetic Fibers","url":"https://www.academia.edu/Documents/in/Synthetic_Fibers?f_ri=177724","nofollow":false}</script></span></li><script>(function(){ if (true) { new Aedu.ResearchInterestListCard({ el: $('*[data-has-card-for-ri-list=10003690]'), work: {"id":10003690,"title":"\"Designing Synthetics, Promoting Brands: Dorothy Liebes, DuPont Fibres and Post-war American Interiors\"","created_at":"2015-01-04T11:44:09.509-08:00","url":"https://www.academia.edu/10003690/_Designing_Synthetics_Promoting_Brands_Dorothy_Liebes_DuPont_Fibres_and_Post_war_American_Interiors_?f_ri=177724","dom_id":"work_10003690","summary":"Article in the \"Journal of Design History\" 21, no. 1 (2008): 75-99.","downloadable_attachments":[{"id":36141564,"asset_id":10003690,"asset_type":"Work","always_allow_download":false}],"ordered_authors":[{"id":148374,"first_name":"Regina Lee","last_name":"Blaszczyk","domain_name":"leeds","page_name":"ReginaLeeBlaszczyk","display_name":"Regina Lee Blaszczyk","profile_url":"https://leeds.academia.edu/ReginaLeeBlaszczyk?f_ri=177724","photo":"https://0.academia-photos.com/148374/6564517/7422059/s65_regina_lee.blaszczyk.jpg"}],"research_interests":[{"id":1632,"name":"Design 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