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Silkwoman - Wikipedia

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href="https://donate.wikimedia.org/wiki/Special:FundraiserRedirector?utm_source=donate&amp;utm_medium=sidebar&amp;utm_campaign=C13_en.wikipedia.org&amp;uselang=en" class=""><span>Donate</span></a> </li> <li id="pt-createaccount-2" class="user-links-collapsible-item mw-list-item user-links-collapsible-item"><a data-mw="interface" href="/w/index.php?title=Special:CreateAccount&amp;returnto=Silkwoman" title="You are encouraged to create an account and log in; however, it is not mandatory" class=""><span>Create account</span></a> </li> <li id="pt-login-2" class="user-links-collapsible-item mw-list-item user-links-collapsible-item"><a data-mw="interface" href="/w/index.php?title=Special:UserLogin&amp;returnto=Silkwoman" title="You&#039;re encouraged to log in; however, it&#039;s not mandatory. 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data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-toc.pin">move to sidebar</button> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-unpin-button" data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-toc.unpin">hide</button> </div> <ul class="vector-toc-contents" id="mw-panel-toc-list"> <li id="toc-mw-content-text" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1"> <a href="#" class="vector-toc-link"> <div class="vector-toc-text">(Top)</div> </a> </li> <li id="toc-Silkwomen_in_London" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Silkwomen_in_London"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">1</span> <span>Silkwomen in London</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Silkwomen_in_London-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Silkwomen_supplying_the_royal_wardrobe" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Silkwomen_supplying_the_royal_wardrobe"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">2</span> <span>Silkwomen supplying the royal wardrobe</span> </div> </a> <button aria-controls="toc-Silkwomen_supplying_the_royal_wardrobe-sublist" class="cdx-button cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only vector-toc-toggle"> <span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-expand"></span> <span>Toggle Silkwomen supplying the royal wardrobe subsection</span> </button> <ul id="toc-Silkwomen_supplying_the_royal_wardrobe-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> <li id="toc-Joan_Wilkinson_and_Mistress_Vaughan" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Joan_Wilkinson_and_Mistress_Vaughan"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">2.1</span> <span>Joan Wilkinson and Mistress Vaughan</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Joan_Wilkinson_and_Mistress_Vaughan-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Silkwomen_to_Mary_I,_Elizabeth_I,_and_Anne_of_Denmark" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Silkwomen_to_Mary_I,_Elizabeth_I,_and_Anne_of_Denmark"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">2.2</span> <span>Silkwomen to Mary I, Elizabeth I, and Anne of Denmark</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Silkwomen_to_Mary_I,_Elizabeth_I,_and_Anne_of_Denmark-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-Alice_Montague_and_the_clothes_of_Elizabeth_I" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-2"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#Alice_Montague_and_the_clothes_of_Elizabeth_I"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">2.3</span> <span>Alice Montague and the clothes of Elizabeth I</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-Alice_Montague_and_the_clothes_of_Elizabeth_I-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-References" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#References"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">3</span> <span>References</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-References-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> <li id="toc-External_links" class="vector-toc-list-item vector-toc-level-1 vector-toc-list-item-expanded"> <a class="vector-toc-link" href="#External_links"> <div class="vector-toc-text"> <span class="vector-toc-numb">4</span> <span>External links</span> </div> </a> <ul id="toc-External_links-sublist" class="vector-toc-list"> </ul> </li> </ul> </div> </div> </nav> </div> </div> <div class="mw-content-container"> <main id="content" class="mw-body"> <header class="mw-body-header vector-page-titlebar"> <nav aria-label="Contents" class="vector-toc-landmark"> <div id="vector-page-titlebar-toc" class="vector-dropdown vector-page-titlebar-toc vector-button-flush-left" > <input type="checkbox" id="vector-page-titlebar-toc-checkbox" role="button" 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class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-2"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> London silkwomen held some trading rights independently from their husbands and were exempted from some of the usual customs and laws of <a href="/wiki/Coverture" title="Coverture">coverture</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-3"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>3<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> The trade and craft of the silkwoman was encouraged by a <a href="/wiki/Importation_Act_1455" title="Importation Act 1455">statute</a> of <a href="/wiki/Henry_VI_of_England" title="Henry VI of England">Henry VI of England</a> as a countermeasure to imports of silk thread, and a suitable occupation for "young gentlewomen and other apprentices".<sup id="cite_ref-4" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-4"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <meta property="mw:PageProp/toc" /> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Silkwomen_in_London">Silkwomen in London</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Silkwoman&amp;action=edit&amp;section=1" title="Edit section: Silkwomen in London"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <figure class="mw-default-size mw-halign-right" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/wiki/File:Alice_Barnham_and_Her_Sons_Martin_and_Steven_1557.png" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/82/Alice_Barnham_and_Her_Sons_Martin_and_Steven_1557.png/220px-Alice_Barnham_and_Her_Sons_Martin_and_Steven_1557.png" decoding="async" width="220" height="263" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/82/Alice_Barnham_and_Her_Sons_Martin_and_Steven_1557.png/330px-Alice_Barnham_and_Her_Sons_Martin_and_Steven_1557.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/82/Alice_Barnham_and_Her_Sons_Martin_and_Steven_1557.png/440px-Alice_Barnham_and_Her_Sons_Martin_and_Steven_1557.png 2x" data-file-width="2143" data-file-height="2560" /></a><figcaption><a href="/wiki/Alice_Bradbridge" title="Alice Bradbridge">Alice Barnham Bradbridge</a> and her sons (c.1557), <a href="/wiki/Denver_Art_Museum" title="Denver Art Museum">Denver Art Museum</a></figcaption></figure> <p>In 1421 Alice Corsmaker paid 6s-8d to the <a href="/wiki/Worshipful_Company_of_Mercers" class="mw-redirect" title="Worshipful Company of Mercers">Mercer's Company of London</a> to trade as a silkwoman.<sup id="cite_ref-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-5"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> <a href="/wiki/Alice_Bradbridge" title="Alice Bradbridge">Alice Bradbridge</a> was recognised as a "sister" of the <a href="/wiki/Worshipful_Company_of_Drapers" title="Worshipful Company of Drapers">Worshipful Company of Drapers</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-6" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-6"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Silkwomen in London manufactured silk thread from raw silk imported from Italy, wove and sold ribbons, braids, cord, girdles, and trimmings, called "narrow ware",<sup id="cite_ref-7" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-7"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>7<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> and made other silk goods.<sup id="cite_ref-8" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-8"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> In the Elizabeth period, silkwomen also provided linen goods including lawn sleeves and <a href="/wiki/Partlet" title="Partlet">partlets</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-9"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Silkwomen_supplying_the_royal_wardrobe">Silkwomen supplying the royal wardrobe</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Silkwoman&amp;action=edit&amp;section=2" title="Edit section: Silkwomen supplying the royal wardrobe"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Emmot Norton and Matilde Dentorte were London silkwomen supplying the wardrobe of <a href="/wiki/Joan_of_Navarre,_Queen_of_England" title="Joan of Navarre, Queen of England">Joan of Navarre</a>, queen consort of <a href="/wiki/Henry_IV_of_England" title="Henry IV of England">Henry IV of England</a> with silk thread, cord, gilt silk ribbons or bands, and <a href="/wiki/Latten" title="Latten">latten</a> rings and fixings, in 1420, when she was a prisoner at <a href="/wiki/Leeds_Castle" title="Leeds Castle">Leeds Castle</a>. Four other women sold cloth for her gowns.<sup id="cite_ref-10" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-10"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>10<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Anne Claver (died 1489) was a silkwoman to <a href="/wiki/Edward_IV_of_England" class="mw-redirect" title="Edward IV of England">Edward IV</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-11"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>11<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> She supplied silk thread for sewing or embroidery, ribbons, a mantle of blue silk lace, and wove silk thread into laces and tassels to be applied to bookbindings. She made a silk fringe in yellow, green, red, white, and blue. She may have supplied five counterpoints for covering beds, with imagery, scripture, and verdure, and four "costerings" or wallhangings chequered in red and blue with roses, suns, and crowns.<sup id="cite_ref-12" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-12"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>12<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> She made tufts of silk to decorate the coronation gloves of <a href="/wiki/Richard_III" class="mw-redirect" title="Richard III">Richard III</a>, and buttons for his and <a href="/wiki/Anne_Neville" title="Anne Neville">Anne Neville</a>'s robes.<sup id="cite_ref-13" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-13"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>13<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Cecily Walcot worked on furnishings and decorations for the coronation of <a href="/wiki/Henry_VII_of_England" title="Henry VII of England">Henry VII</a> in October 1485. Walcot provided fringes of gold and silk thread for the royal canopy. Kateryn Champyon <i>alias</i> Claver made ribbons for the king's girdles, and Kateryn Walshe supplied fringes and ribbon, some in the green and white Tudor colours.<sup id="cite_ref-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-14"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>14<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Agnes Dey or Sey and Alice Claver provided red ribbons.<sup id="cite_ref-15" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-15"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>15<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-16"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>16<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Elizabeth Langton (whose mother-in-law <a href="/wiki/Jane_Langton_(silk_merchant)" title="Jane Langton (silk merchant)">Jane Langton</a> was also a silkwoman<sup id="cite_ref-Dale_17-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-Dale-17"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>17<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup>) , Elizabeth Lock, Jane Lock, Margaret Ashley, and Elizabeth Worssop supplied the royal wardrobe in the years 1498 to 1511.<sup id="cite_ref-18" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-18"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>18<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Elizabeth Lock provided black velvet hoods for <a href="/wiki/Lady_Catherine_Gordon" title="Lady Catherine Gordon">Lady Catherine Gordon</a>, the widow of <a href="/wiki/Perkin_Warbeck" title="Perkin Warbeck">Perkin Warbeck</a>, in October 1498 and in March 1499, and a crimson velvet bonnet in 1502,<sup id="cite_ref-19" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-19"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>19<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> and in November 1498 and April 1499 black velvet bonnets with a gold border and partlets for Lady Anne Percy, one the gentlewomen attending <a href="/wiki/Elizabeth_of_York" title="Elizabeth of York">Elizabeth of York</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-20" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-20"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>20<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Jane Lock made a crimson velvet bonnet for Catherine Gordon in 1503 and two velvet frontlets.<sup id="cite_ref-21" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-21"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Elizabeth Worssop made gold fringes for <a href="/wiki/Hose_(clothing)" title="Hose (clothing)">hose</a> worn by <a href="/wiki/Henry_VII_of_England" title="Henry VII of England">Henry VII</a> in 1510.<sup id="cite_ref-22" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-22"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>22<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> in November 1510 Margaret Ashley supplied coloured ribbons and sarcenet silk fabric in several colours for <a href="/wiki/Tippet" title="Tippet">tippets</a> worn by <a href="/wiki/Mary_Tudor,_Queen_of_France" title="Mary Tudor, Queen of France">Mary Tudor</a>, then known as the "Princess of Castile".<sup id="cite_ref-23" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-23"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>23<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Joan_Wilkinson_and_Mistress_Vaughan">Joan Wilkinson and Mistress Vaughan</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Silkwoman&amp;action=edit&amp;section=3" title="Edit section: Joan Wilkinson and Mistress Vaughan"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p><a href="/wiki/Joan_Wilkinson_(died_1556)" title="Joan Wilkinson (died 1556)">Joan or Jane Wilkinson</a> provided silks for <a href="/wiki/Anne_Boleyn" title="Anne Boleyn">Anne Boleyn</a>. After Anne Boleyn's arrest, her chaplain <a href="/wiki/William_Latymer" title="William Latymer">William Latymer</a> forwarded books that he had bought for her to Wilkinson.<sup id="cite_ref-24" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-24"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>24<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Margaret or Margery Guinet (died 1544), mother of <a href="/wiki/Anne_Locke" title="Anne Locke">Anne Locke</a>, was a silkwoman to Anne Boleyn, <a href="/wiki/Anne_of_Cleves" title="Anne of Cleves">Anne of Cleves</a>, and <a href="/wiki/Catherine_Parr" title="Catherine Parr">Catherine Parr</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-25" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-25"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>25<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> as the wife of <a href="/wiki/Stephen_Vaughan_(merchant)" title="Stephen Vaughan (merchant)">Stephen Vaughan</a> (merchant and MP) she known as "Mistress Vaughan".<sup id="cite_ref-26" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-26"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>26<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Vaughan recommended her work to <a href="/wiki/Thomas_Cromwell" title="Thomas Cromwell">Thomas Cromwell</a>, claiming that she had already devised certain works for Anne Boleyn but the they had been forwarded to her.<sup id="cite_ref-27" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-27"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Mistress Vaughan supplied crimson silk fringes for a <a href="/wiki/Close_stool" title="Close stool">close stool</a> and tawny satin and ribbon to line a coffer made for the Lady Mary by William Green in August 1537.<sup id="cite_ref-28" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-28"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>28<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> She provided supplies for saddlery for Anne of Cleves. Catherine Parr did not pay very promptly and her husband pursued the debts.<sup id="cite_ref-29" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-29"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Vaughan's second wife was also called Margery Vaughan. She was the widow of <a href="/wiki/Henry_Brinklow" title="Henry Brinklow">Henry Brinklow</a>. After Stephen Vaughan's death, she married <a href="/wiki/George_Rolle" title="George Rolle">George Rolle</a> (died 1552), and subsequently <a href="/wiki/Sir_Leonard_Chamberlain" title="Sir Leonard Chamberlain">Leonard Chamberlain</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-30" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-30"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>30<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>After the death of Margery Vaughan, Catherine Parr bought from the silkwoman Mistress Anne Shakerley, the wife of the mercer Rowland Shakerley.<sup id="cite_ref-31" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-31"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>31<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Silkwomen_to_Mary_I,_Elizabeth_I,_and_Anne_of_Denmark"><span id="Silkwomen_to_Mary_I.2C_Elizabeth_I.2C_and_Anne_of_Denmark"></span>Silkwomen to Mary I, Elizabeth I, and Anne of Denmark</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Silkwoman&amp;action=edit&amp;section=4" title="Edit section: Silkwomen to Mary I, Elizabeth I, and Anne of Denmark"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Marie Wilkinson was a silkwoman to <a href="/wiki/Mary_I_of_England" title="Mary I of England">Mary I of England</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-32" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-32"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> and was paid £200 in September 1553 by order of the <a href="/wiki/Privy_Council_of_England" title="Privy Council of England">Privy Council</a> probably for works for <a href="/wiki/Coronation_of_Mary_I_of_England" title="Coronation of Mary I of England">Mary's coronation</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-33" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-33"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>33<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Wilkinson also made clothes and shoes for <a href="/wiki/Jane_Foole" title="Jane Foole">Jane Foole</a>, and provided materials to the Queen's French-born embroiderer, Guillaume Brellant or Brallot, (who had come to London from Normandy by May 1524 and worked with the English embroiderers <a href="/wiki/William_Ibgrave" title="William Ibgrave">William Ibgrave</a> and Stephen Humble),<sup id="cite_ref-34" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-34"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> for a rich litter of black velvet. Mrs Baull or Ball and Mrs Malrye provided "silkwomen's stuff" for saddles.<sup id="cite_ref-35" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-35"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>35<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-36" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-36"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>36<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>While <a href="/wiki/Elizabeth_I" title="Elizabeth I">Princess Elizabeth</a> was at <a href="/wiki/Hatfield_House" title="Hatfield House">Hatfield House</a> in 1551, Elizabeth Slannyng brought her velvet and silks.<sup id="cite_ref-37" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-37"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>37<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Alice Smythe and Alice Montague served the royal wardrobe and Elizabeth I as queen.<sup id="cite_ref-38" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-38"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>38<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Montague supplied "bone lace wrought with silver and <a href="/wiki/Oes" title="Oes">spangles</a>" in June 1572 and Mrs Swegoo, perhaps a "tirewoman", worked on head dresses for actors in <i>The Masque of Discord and Peace</i>.<sup id="cite_ref-39" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-39"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>39<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-40" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-40"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>40<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p><a href="/wiki/Dorothy_Speckard" title="Dorothy Speckard">Dorothy Speckard</a> was Elizabeth's silkwoman from 1601. She washed and mended one the queen's favourite riding outfits, a <a href="/wiki/Safeguard_(costume)" title="Safeguard (costume)">safeguard</a> and <a href="/wiki/Jupe_(clothing)" title="Jupe (clothing)">jupe</a> embroidered with stars of Venice silver and gold wheat ears.<sup id="cite_ref-41" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-41"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>41<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Dorothy Speckard continued to work for <a href="/wiki/Anne_of_Denmark" title="Anne of Denmark">Anne of Denmark</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-42" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-42"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>42<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Another silkwoman serving Anne of Denmark in London was the French-born Esther or Hester Le Tellier née Granges, who is thought to have been the aunt of the miniature painter <a href="/wiki/David_des_Granges" title="David des Granges">David des Granges</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-43" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-43"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>43<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> She had an annual salary of £20 in 1606.<sup id="cite_ref-44" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-44"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>44<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Alice_Montague_and_the_clothes_of_Elizabeth_I">Alice Montague and the clothes of Elizabeth I</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Silkwoman&amp;action=edit&amp;section=5" title="Edit section: Alice Montague and the clothes of Elizabeth I"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <p>Alice Montague was paid for hemming and edging Elizabeth's partlets, and starching the queen's sleeves and <a href="/wiki/Ruff_(clothing)" title="Ruff (clothing)">ruffs</a>. She was paid for <a href="/wiki/Blackwork" title="Blackwork">blackwork</a> embroidery on the queen's smocks and collars.<sup id="cite_ref-45" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-45"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> In 1564, Alice Montague supplied plain Holland linen for the use of Elizabeth's laundry woman or laundress, "24 <a href="/wiki/Ell" title="Ell">elles</a> of holland for oure Laundresse to drie our Partelettes'.<sup id="cite_ref-46" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-46"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>46<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> Montague employed a woman "in altering and translating" the queen's partlets.<sup id="cite_ref-47" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-47"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>47<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>According to the chronicle of <a href="/wiki/Edmund_Howes" title="Edmund Howes">Edmund Howes</a>, in 1561 Montague gave Elizabeth her first pair of silk stockings as a New Year's Day gift.<sup id="cite_ref-48" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-48"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>48<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-49" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-49"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>49<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> In 1562, Montague provided a pewter metal doll for <a href="/wiki/Aura_Soltana" title="Aura Soltana">Aura Soltana</a>, a Russian girl at Elizabeth's court. The doll was given to <a href="/wiki/Kat_Ashley" title="Kat Ashley">Kat Ashley</a> suggesting that she looked after Aura Soltana.<sup id="cite_ref-50" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-50"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>In the 1560s Montague was owed £702 by <a href="/wiki/John_Tamworth" title="John Tamworth">John Tamworth</a>, a keeper of the Queen's privy purse. Tamworth reimbursed other suppliers and makers including the embroiderers David Smyth and William Middleton, Henry Herne the hosier, <a href="/wiki/Peter_Jonson" title="Peter Jonson">Garret Jonson</a> the shoemaker, Raphael Hammond the capper, and paid for gold lace supplied to the tailor <a href="/wiki/Walter_Fyshe" title="Walter Fyshe">Walter Fyshe</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-51" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-51"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>51<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-52" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-52"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>52<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p><p>Montague also made and provided lace and fringes for the linings and cushions of the coaches used by Elizabeth. The fabrics were embroidered by David Smyth.<sup id="cite_ref-53" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-53"><span class="cite-bracket">&#91;</span>53<span class="cite-bracket">&#93;</span></a></sup> </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="References">References</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Silkwoman&amp;action=edit&amp;section=6" title="Edit section: References"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1239543626">.mw-parser-output .reflist{margin-bottom:0.5em;list-style-type:decimal}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .reflist{font-size:90%}}.mw-parser-output .reflist .references{font-size:100%;margin-bottom:0;list-style-type:inherit}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-2{column-width:30em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-3{column-width:25em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns{margin-top:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns ol{margin-top:0}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns li{page-break-inside:avoid;break-inside:avoid-column}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-alpha{list-style-type:upper-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-roman{list-style-type:upper-roman}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-alpha{list-style-type:lower-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-greek{list-style-type:lower-greek}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-roman{list-style-type:lower-roman}</style><div class="reflist"> <div class="mw-references-wrap mw-references-columns"><ol class="references"> <li id="cite_note-1"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-1">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Kate Ash, 'Silkwomen', Gale Owen-Crocker, Elizabeth Coatsworth, <a href="/wiki/Maria_Hayward" title="Maria Hayward">Maria Hayward</a>, <i>Encyclopedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles of the British Isles</i> (Leiden: Brill, 2012, pp. 522-523.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-2"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-2">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Marian K. Dale, 'The London Silkwomen of the Fiftenth Century', <i>Econmomic History Review', 4 (1933), pp. 324-5.</i></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-3"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-3">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Amy Louise Erickson, 'Coverture and Capitalism', <i>History Workshop Journal</i>, 59:1 (2005), pp. 1-16: Tim Stretton, 'Women', Susan Doran &amp; Norman Jones', <i>The Elizabethan World</i> (Routledge, 2011), pp. 337, 341, 347.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-4"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-4">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Nicholas Harris Nicolas, <i>Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York: Wardrobe Accounts of Edward the Fourth</i> (London, 1830), p. 242.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-5"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-5">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Lisa Jefferson, <i>Medieval Account Books of the Mercers of London</i>, vol. 1 (Ashgate, 2009), p. 329.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-6"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-6">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Tim Stretton, 'Women', Susan Doran &amp; Norman Jones', <i>The Elizabethan World</i> (Routledge, 2011), pp. 337, 341, 347.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-7"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-7">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Kay Lacey, 'The Production of 'Narrow Ware by Silkwomen in Fourteenth and Fifteenth Century England', <i>Textile History</i>, 18:2 (1987), pp. 187-204: <a href="/wiki/Maria_Hayward" title="Maria Hayward">Maria Hayward</a>, <i>Great Wardrobe Accounts of Henry VII and Henry VIII</i> (London Record Society, 2012), p. xxxi.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-8"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-8">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Anne F. Sutton, 'Two dozen and more silkwomen of fifteenth-century London', <i>The Ricardian</i>, vol. 16 (2006), pp. 46-58.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-9"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-9">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="/wiki/Janet_Arnold" title="Janet Arnold">Janet Arnold</a>, <i>Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd</i> (Maney, 1988), p. 229.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-10"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-10">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Alec R. Myers, <i>Crown, household, and Parliament in fifteenth century England</i> (London: Hambledon, 1985), pp. 95-99, 121-3.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-11"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-11">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Anne F. Sutton, 'Alice Claver, Silkwoman, (d. 1489)', Caroline Barron, <i>Medieval London Widows, 1300-1500</i> (Hambeldon Press, 1994), p. 129.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-12"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-12">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Nicholas Harris Nicolas, <i>Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York: Wardrobe Accounts of Edward the Fourth</i> (London, 1830), pp. 117-8, 125, 242.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-13"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-13">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="/wiki/Anne_F._Sutton" title="Anne F. Sutton">Anne F. Sutton</a>, 'Alice Claver, Silkwoman of London and Maker of Mantle Laces for Richard III and Queen Anne', <i>The Ricardian</i>, 5 (1970), p. 24.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-14"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-14">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Leopold George Wickham Legg, <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/cu31924081293627/page/206/mode/2up"><i>English Coronation Records</i> (London, 1901), pp. 206-8</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-15"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-15">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">William Campbell, <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/materialsforhist02camp/page/14/mode/2up"><i>Materials for a history of the reign of Henry VII</i>, vol. 2 (London, 1887), p. 15</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-16"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-16">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Anne F. Sutton, 'Alice Claver, Silkwoman of London and Maker of Mantle Laces for Richard III and Queen Anne', <i>The Ricardian</i>, 5 (1970), p. 247, for Katherine Champyon <i>alias</i> Claver, and misreadings of 'Claver' by previous authors.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-Dale-17"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-Dale_17-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1238218222">.mw-parser-output cite.citation{font-style:inherit;word-wrap:break-word}.mw-parser-output .citation q{quotes:"\"""\"""'""'"}.mw-parser-output .citation:target{background-color:rgba(0,127,255,0.133)}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-free.id-lock-free a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/65/Lock-green.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited.id-lock-limited a,.mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration.id-lock-registration a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d6/Lock-gray-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription.id-lock-subscription a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/aa/Lock-red-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4c/Wikisource-logo.svg")right 0.1em center/12px no-repeat}body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-free a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background-size:contain;padding:0 1em 0 0}.mw-parser-output .cs1-code{color:inherit;background:inherit;border:none;padding:inherit}.mw-parser-output .cs1-hidden-error{display:none;color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-visible-error{color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{display:none;color:#085;margin-left:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-left{padding-left:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-right{padding-right:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .citation .mw-selflink{font-weight:inherit}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .cs1-format{font-size:95%}html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}</style><cite id="CITEREFDale1933" class="citation journal cs1">Dale, Marian K. (October 1933). "The London Silkwomen of the Fifteenth Century". <i>The Economic History Review</i>. <b>4</b> (3): 324–335. <a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.2307%2F2590651">10.2307/2590651</a>. <a href="/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="JSTOR (identifier)">JSTOR</a>&#160;<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/2590651">2590651</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&amp;rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&amp;rft.genre=article&amp;rft.jtitle=The+Economic+History+Review&amp;rft.atitle=The+London+Silkwomen+of+the+Fifteenth+Century&amp;rft.volume=4&amp;rft.issue=3&amp;rft.pages=324-335&amp;rft.date=1933-10&amp;rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.2307%2F2590651&amp;rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstor.org%2Fstable%2F2590651%23id-name%3DJSTOR&amp;rft.aulast=Dale&amp;rft.aufirst=Marian+K.&amp;rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3ASilkwoman" class="Z3988"></span></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-18"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-18">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Maria Hayward, <i>Great Wardrobe Accounts of Henry VII and Henry VIII</i> (London Record Society, 2012), p. xxxi.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-19"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-19">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Joseph Bain, <i>Calendar of Documents relating to Scotland, 1357-1509</i>, vol. 4, (Edinburgh, 1888), p. 420 no. 36.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-20"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-20">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Maria Hayward, <i>Great Wardrobe Accounts of Henry VII and Henry VIII</i> (London Record Society, 2012), pp. 10, 18, 38, 46.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-21"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-21">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/calendarofdocume04edin/page/420/mode/2up"><i>Celandar Documents Scotland</i>, 4, p. 420</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-22"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-22">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Maria Hayward, <i>Great Wardrobe Accounts of Henry VII and Henry VIII</i> (London Record Society, 2012), p. 85.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-23"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-23">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Maria Hayward, <i>Great Wardrobe Accounts of Henry VII and Henry VIII</i> (London Record Society, 2012), p. 91.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-24"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-24">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Maria Dowling, 'Chronickille of Anne Bulleyne', <i>Camden Miscellany</i>, XXX (1990), pp. 28–29. <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1017%2FS0068690500004591">10.1017/S0068690500004591</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-25"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-25">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Susan M. Felch, 'Deir Sister: The Letters of John Knox to Anne Vaughan Lok', <i>Renaissance and Reformation</i>, 19:4 (Fall 1995), p. 47.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-26"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-26">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Eleri Lynn, <i>Tudor Textiles</i> (Yale, 2020), p. 109.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-27"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-27">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Maria Hayward, <i>Dress at the court of Henry VIII</i> (Maney, 2007), pp. 35, 328.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-28"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-28">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">'Accounts of the Groom of the Stole', <i>The Antiquary</i>, 20 (London, 1889), p. 190.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-29"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-29">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Maria Hayward, <i>Dress at the court of Henry VIII</i> (Maney, 2007), pp. 328, 340.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-30"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-30">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.historyofparliamentonline.org/volume/1509-1558/member/vaughan-stephen-1502-49">'VAUGHAN, Stephen (by 1502-49), of St. Mary-le-Bow, London', <i>The History of Parliament: the House of Commons 1509-1558</i>, ed. S.T. Bindoff, 1982</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-31"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-31">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">David Starkey, <i>Inventory of Henry VIII</i> (London, 1998), p. 437.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-32"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-32">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Alison J. Carter, 'Mary Tudor's Wardrobe', <i>Costume</i>, 18 (1984), p. 25: <i>Calendar of Patent Rolls, Philip and Mary</i>, 1 (London, 1937), p. 285.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-33"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-33">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><i>Acts of the Privy Council</i>, 4 (London, 1892), p. 350.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-34"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-34">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="/wiki/Maria_Hayward" title="Maria Hayward">Maria Hayward</a>, <i>Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII</i> (Maney, 2007), 326–27.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-35"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-35">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">William Henry Hart, 'Expenses of the Royal Stables, circa 1554', <i>Gentleman's Magazine</i> (March 1861), pp. 278–9.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-36"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-36">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">John Nichols, <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/illustrationsofm00nich/page/n405/mode/2up"><i>llustrations of the manners and expences of antient times in England</i> (London, 1797), p. 22</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-37"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-37">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Viscount Strangford, <i>Household Expenses of the Princess Elizabeth During Her Residence at Hatfield</i> (London: Camden Society, 1852), pp. 32–33.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-38"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-38">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Patricia Wardle, 'Divers necessaries for his Majesty's use and service: Seamstresses to the Stuart Kings', <i>Costume</i>, 31:1 (January 1997), p. 16.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-39"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-39">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Margaret Jourdain, 'Lace as worn in England until the accession of James I', <i>The Burlington Magazine</i>, 10 (December 1906), p. 168: Martin Wiggins &amp; Catherine Richardson, <i>British Drama, 1533-1642</i>, vol. 2 (Oxford, 2012), p. 80 no. 521.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-40"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-40">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Albert Feuillerat, <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/DocumentsRelatingToTheOfficeOfThe/page/n179/mode/2up"><i>Documents Relating to the Office of the Revels in the Time of Queen Elizabeth</i> (Louvain, 1908), p. 156</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-41"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-41">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Janet Arnold, <i>Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd </i> (Maney, 1988), pp. 315–16.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-42"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-42">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Janet Arnold, <i>Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd</i> (Maney, 1988), pp. 229-227: Patricia Wardle, 'Divers necessaries for his Majesty's use and service: Seamstresses to the Stuart Kings', <i>Costume</i>, 31:1 (January 1997), p. 16.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-43"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-43">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">George Charles Williamson, <i>The History of Portrait Miniatures</i>, vol. 1 (London, 1904), p. 27.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-44"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-44">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Mary Edmond, 'Limners and Picturemakers', <i>Walpole Society</i>, 47 (1978-1980), p. 123.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-45"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-45">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Janet Arnold, <i>Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd</i> (Maney, 1988), p. 224.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-46"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-46">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Janet Arnold, <i>Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd</i> (Maney, 1988), pp. 223.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-47"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-47">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Janet Arnold, <i>Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd</i> (Maney, 1988), p. 223.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-48"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-48">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Natasha Korda, 'How to do things with shoes', Patricia Lennox &amp; Bella Mirabella, <i>Shakespeare and Costume</i> (Bloomsbury, 2015), p. 96.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-49"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-49">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/b30330300/page/867/mode/2up"><i>Annales, or, a generall chronicle of England</i> (London, 1631), p. 867</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-50"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-50">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="/wiki/Janet_Arnold" title="Janet Arnold">Janet Arnold</a>, <i>Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd</i> (Leeds, 1988), p. 107: <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015013472850&amp;view=1up&amp;seq=197">'Copy of an Original Order of Queen Elizabeth', <i>Gentleman's Magazine and Historical Chronicle</i>, 24 (London, 1754), p. 163</a>: <a href="/wiki/Bernadette_Andrea" title="Bernadette Andrea">Bernadette Andrea</a>, 'Ippolyta the Tartarian', Carole Levin, Anna Riehl Bertolet, Jo Eldridge Carney, eds, <i>A Biographical Encyclopedia of Early Modern Englishwomen</i> (Routledge, 2017), pp. 512-3.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-51"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-51">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">John Nichols, <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/progressesandpu01nichgoog/page/264/mode/2up"><i>Progresses of Elizabeth</i>, vol. 1 (London, 1823), pp. 270-271</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-52"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-52">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Elizabeth Goldring and others, eds, <i>John Nichols’s The Progresses and Public Processions of Queen Elizabeth I: A New Edition of the Early Modern Sources</i>, vol. 5 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2014), Appendix 16, Account of the Queen’s Purse, 1559-1569, ed. by Jayne Elisabeth Archer and trans. by Sarah Knight, pp. 244-55.</span> </li> <li id="cite_note-53"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-53">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="/wiki/J._T._Munby" title="J. T. Munby">Julian Munby</a>, 'Queen Elizabeth's Coaches: The Wardrobe on Wheels', <i>Antiquaries Journal</i>, 83 (September 2003), pp. 316, 319 <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><a href="/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.1017%2FS0003581500077726">10.1017/S0003581500077726</a></span> </li> </ol></div></div> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="External_links">External links</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Silkwoman&amp;action=edit&amp;section=7" title="Edit section: External links"><span>edit</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Anne_F._Sutton" title="Anne F. Sutton">Anne F. Sutton</a>, <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.thericardian.online/downloads/Ricardian/5-70/05.pdf">'Alice Claver, Silkwoman of London and Maker of Mantle Laces for Richard III and Queen Anne', <i>The Ricardian</i>, 5 (1970), pp. 243–47</a></li> <li><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/people-and-functions/professions-and-functions/silkwoman">'Silkwoman', Textile Research Centre, Leiden</a></li> <li><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://daily.jstor.org/the-silkwomen-of-medieval-london/">Matthew Wills, 'The Silkwomen of Medieval London', JSTOR Daily</a></li> <li><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b60009795/f2.item.zoom">Latin wardrobe account of Mary I of England including payments to Marie Wilkinson, BnF Gallica Anglais 176</a></li></ul> <div class="navbox-styles"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1129693374">.mw-parser-output .hlist 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abbr{color:var(--color-base)!important}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .navbar li a abbr{color:var(--color-base)!important}}@media print{.mw-parser-output .navbar{display:none!important}}</style><div class="navbar plainlinks hlist navbar-mini"><ul><li class="nv-view"><a href="/wiki/Template:Sewing" title="Template:Sewing"><abbr title="View this template">v</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-talk"><a href="/wiki/Template_talk:Sewing" title="Template talk:Sewing"><abbr title="Discuss this template">t</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-edit"><a href="/wiki/Special:EditPage/Template:Sewing" title="Special:EditPage/Template:Sewing"><abbr title="Edit this template">e</abbr></a></li></ul></div><div id="Sewing" style="font-size:114%;margin:0 4em"><a href="/wiki/Sewing" title="Sewing">Sewing</a></div></th></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Techniques</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Tack_(sewing)" title="Tack (sewing)">Basting</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Cut_(clothing)" title="Cut (clothing)">Cut</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Darning" title="Darning">Darning</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ease_(sewing)" title="Ease (sewing)">Ease</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Embellishment" title="Embellishment">Embellishment</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Fabric_tube_turning" title="Fabric tube turning">Fabric tube turning</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Floating_canvas" title="Floating canvas">Floating canvas</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Gather_(sewing)" title="Gather (sewing)">Gather</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Godet_(sewing)" title="Godet (sewing)">Godet</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Gore_(fabrics)" title="Gore (fabrics)">Gore (fabrics)</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Gusset" title="Gusset">Gusset</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Heirloom_sewing" title="Heirloom sewing">Heirloom sewing</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pleat" title="Pleat">Pleat</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Shirring" title="Shirring">Shirring</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Stitch_(textile_arts)" title="Stitch (textile arts)">Stitches</a><br />(<a href="/wiki/List_of_sewing_stitches" title="List of sewing stitches">list</a>)</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Backstitch" title="Backstitch">Backstitch</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bar_tack" title="Bar tack">Bar tack</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Blanket_stitch" title="Blanket stitch">Blanket</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Blind_stitch" title="Blind stitch">Blind stitch</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Buttonhole_stitch" title="Buttonhole stitch">Buttonhole</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Cross_stitches" title="Cross stitches">Catch stitch</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Chain_stitch" title="Chain stitch">Chain stitch</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Coverstitch" title="Coverstitch">Coverstitch</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Cross-stitch" title="Cross-stitch">Cross-stitch</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Embroidery_stitch" title="Embroidery stitch">Embroidery stitch</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hemstitch" title="Hemstitch">Hemstitch</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Lockstitch" title="Lockstitch">Lockstitch</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Overlock" title="Overlock">Overlock</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pad_stitch" title="Pad stitch">Pad stitch</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pick_stitch" title="Pick stitch">Pick stitch</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Rantering" title="Rantering">Rantering</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Running_stitch" class="mw-redirect" title="Running stitch">Running</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sashiko" title="Sashiko">Sashiko</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Stoating" title="Stoating">Stoating</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tack_(sewing)" title="Tack (sewing)">Tack</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Topstitch" title="Topstitch">Topstitch</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Zigzag_stitch" title="Zigzag stitch">Zigzag</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Seam_(sewing)" title="Seam (sewing)">Seams</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Neckline" title="Neckline">Neckline</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Felled_seam" title="Felled seam">Felled seam</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Seam_allowance" title="Seam allowance">Seam allowance</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Style_line" title="Style line">Style line</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><div class="hlist"><ul><li><a href="/wiki/Notions_(sewing)" title="Notions (sewing)">Notions</a></li><li><a href="/wiki/Trim_(sewing)" title="Trim (sewing)">Trim</a></li></ul></div></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Bias_tape" title="Bias tape">Bias tape</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Collar_stay" title="Collar stay">Collar stay</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Elastic_(notion)" title="Elastic (notion)">Elastic</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Galloon" title="Galloon">Galloon</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Grommet" title="Grommet">Grommet/eyelet</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Interfacing" title="Interfacing">Interfacing</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Passementerie" title="Passementerie">Passementerie</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Piping_(sewing)" title="Piping (sewing)">Piping</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Ruffle_(sewing)" title="Ruffle (sewing)">Ruffle</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Rickrack" title="Rickrack">Rickrack</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Self-fabric" title="Self-fabric">Self-fabric</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Soutache" title="Soutache">Soutache</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Twill_tape" title="Twill tape">Twill tape</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Wrights_(textile_manufacturers)" title="Wrights (textile manufacturers)">Wrights</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Closures</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Buckle" title="Buckle">Buckle</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Button" title="Button">Button</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Buttonhole" title="Buttonhole">Buttonhole</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Frog_(fastening)" title="Frog (fastening)">Frog</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hook-and-eye_closure" title="Hook-and-eye closure">Hook-and-eye</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Hook-and-loop_fastener" title="Hook-and-loop fastener">Hook-and-loop fastener</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Shank_(sewing)" title="Shank (sewing)">Shank</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Snap_fastener" title="Snap fastener">Snap</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Zipper" title="Zipper">Zipper</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Materials</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Grain_(textile)" title="Grain (textile)">Grain/bias</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Selvage" title="Selvage">Selvage</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Textile" title="Textile">Textile/fabric</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Thread_(yarn)" title="Thread (yarn)">Thread</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Yarn" title="Yarn">Yarn</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Tools</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Bobbin" title="Bobbin">Bobbin</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Dress_form" title="Dress form">Dress form</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Needlecase" title="Needlecase">Needlecase</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Needle_threader" title="Needle threader">Needle threader</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pattern_notcher" title="Pattern notcher">Pattern notcher</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pin" title="Pin">Pin</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pincushion" title="Pincushion">Pincushion</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pinking_shears" title="Pinking shears">Pinking shears</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Scissors" title="Scissors">Scissors</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Seam_ripper" title="Seam ripper">Seam ripper</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sewing_gauge" title="Sewing gauge">Sewing gauge</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sewing_needle" title="Sewing needle">Sewing needle</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Stitching_awl" title="Stitching awl">Stitching awl</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tailor%27s_ham" title="Tailor&#39;s ham">Tailor's ham</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tape_measure" title="Tape measure">Tape measure</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Thimble" title="Thimble">Thimble</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tracing_paper" title="Tracing paper">Tracing paper</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tracing_wheel" title="Tracing wheel">Tracing wheel</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><div class="hlist"><ul><li><a href="/wiki/List_of_sewing_occupations" title="List of sewing occupations">Trades</a></li><li>Suppliers</li></ul></div></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Cloth_merchant" title="Cloth merchant">Cloth merchant</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Draper" title="Draper">Draper</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Dressmaker" title="Dressmaker">Dressmaker</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Haberdasher" title="Haberdasher">Haberdasher</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Mercery" title="Mercery">Mercer</a></li> <li><a class="mw-selflink selflink">Silkwoman</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tailor" title="Tailor">Tailor</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Manufacturers</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"></div><table class="nowraplinks navbox-subgroup" style="border-spacing:0"><tbody><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Pattern_(sewing)" title="Pattern (sewing)">Patterns</a></th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Butterick_Publishing_Company" title="Butterick Publishing Company">Butterick</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Burda_Style" title="Burda Style">Burda</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Clothkits" title="Clothkits">Clothkits</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/McCall%27s" title="McCall&#39;s">McCall's</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Simplicity_Pattern" title="Simplicity Pattern">Simplicity</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%"><a href="/wiki/Sewing_machines" class="mw-redirect" title="Sewing machines">Machines</a><br />(<a href="/wiki/List_of_sewing_machine_brands" title="List of sewing machine brands">list</a>)</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em"> <ul><li><a href="/wiki/Barth%C3%A9lemy_Thimonnier" title="Barthélemy Thimonnier">Barthélemy Thimonnier</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Bernina_International" title="Bernina International">Bernina</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Brother_Industries" title="Brother Industries">Brother</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Elias_Howe" title="Elias Howe">Elias Howe</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Elna_(Swiss_company)" title="Elna (Swiss company)">Elna</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Feiyue_Group" title="Feiyue Group">Feiyue</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Frister_%26_Rossmann" title="Frister &amp; Rossmann">Frister &amp; Rossmann</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Janome" title="Janome">Janome</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Jones_Sewing_Machine_Company" title="Jones Sewing Machine Company">Jones</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Juki" title="Juki">Juki</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Merrow_Sewing_Machine_Company" title="Merrow Sewing Machine Company">Merrow</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/William_L._Grout" title="William L. Grout">New Home</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Pfaff" title="Pfaff">Pfaff</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Sewmor" title="Sewmor">Sewmor</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Singer_Corporation" title="Singer Corporation">Singer</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Tape_edge_machine" title="Tape edge machine">Tape edge machine</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/VSM_Group" title="VSM Group">Viking/Husqvarna</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/White_Sewing_Machine_Company" title="White Sewing Machine Company">White</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table><div></div></td></tr><tr><td class="navbox-abovebelow" colspan="2"><div> <ul><li><span class="noviewer" typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Commons-logo.svg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/12px-Commons-logo.svg.png" decoding="async" width="12" height="16" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/18px-Commons-logo.svg.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/24px-Commons-logo.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="1024" data-file-height="1376" /></a></span> Media related to <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Sewing" class="extiw" title="commons:Category:Sewing">Sewing</a> at Wikimedia Commons</li> <li><span class="nowrap"><span class="noviewer" typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/File:Emojione_1F458.svg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="icon" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ef/Emojione_1F458.svg/16px-Emojione_1F458.svg.png" decoding="async" width="16" height="16" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ef/Emojione_1F458.svg/24px-Emojione_1F458.svg.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ef/Emojione_1F458.svg/32px-Emojione_1F458.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="512" data-file-height="512" /></a></span> </span><a href="/wiki/Portal:Clothing" title="Portal:Clothing">Clothing&#32;portal</a></li> <li><a href="/wiki/Glossary_of_sewing_terms" title="Glossary of sewing terms">Glossary of terms</a></li></ul> </div></td></tr></tbody></table></div> <!-- NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐648c847f85‐8htlp Cached time: 20241203121208 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.385 seconds Real time usage: 0.607 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1231/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 27940/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 736/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 45661/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.198/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4240489/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 --> <!-- Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 510.873 1 -total 37.35% 190.802 1 Template:Sewing 30.11% 153.837 1 Template:Reflist 26.97% 137.801 1 Template:Short_description 25.24% 128.959 2 Template:Navbox 20.20% 103.214 1 Template:Cite_journal 13.14% 67.149 3 Template:Main_other 12.53% 63.992 1 Template:SDcat 10.64% 54.334 2 Template:Pagetype 7.43% 37.974 2 Template:Hlist --> <!-- Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:72473027:|#|:idhash:canonical and timestamp 20241203121208 and revision id 1234197303. 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