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wine production has experienced strong growth and moved upmarket. In 2022, the creation of its first appellation, Judean Hills, was a crowning moment for producers in search of their own identity. </p> </div> <p class="meta meta__publisher meta__publisher--header" id="js-authors-trigger"> <span class="meta__author meta__author--header" id="js-authors-list"> By <a class="article__author-link" href="/en/signataires/laure-gasparotto/">Laure Gasparotto</a> </span> </p> <section class="meta__date-reading"> <span class="meta__date meta__date--header">Published on May 14, 2023, at 2:00 pm (Paris)</span> <p class="meta__reading-time meta__reading-time--header"> <span class="icon__reading-time"></span> <span>4 min read</span> </p> <a class="meta__article-en-fr-url js-lang-switcher" href="/m-styles/article/2023/04/27/en-israel-le-succes-des-petits-vignerons-fait-des-emules_6171256_4497319.html" hreflang="fr"> <span class="meta__article-en-fr-url-link">Lire en français</span> </a> </section> <div class="share-btns meta meta__social meta__social--lmi"> <div 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aria-live="assertive" aria-atomic="true"> <span class="meta__icon-container"> <span class="icon__link"></span> </span> <span class="meta__label-sub">Copy link</span> </button> </li> </ul> </div> </div> </div> </header> <p class="article__status"><span class="icon__premium"></span>Subscribers only</p> <section class="article__wrapper article__content--restricted-media article__wrapper--premium"> <article class="article__content old__article-content-single"> <figure class="article__media"> <picture class="article__media"> <source srcset=" https://img.lemde.fr/2023/04/18/0/0/5760/3840/556/0/75/0/38ab1f9_1681820093308-judean-winers5.jpg 556w, https://img.lemde.fr/2023/04/18/0/0/5760/3840/600/0/75/0/38ab1f9_1681820093308-judean-winers5.jpg 600w, https://img.lemde.fr/2023/04/18/0/0/5760/3840/664/0/75/0/38ab1f9_1681820093308-judean-winers5.jpg 664w, https://img.lemde.fr/2023/04/18/0/0/5760/3840/700/0/75/0/38ab1f9_1681820093308-judean-winers5.jpg 700w, https://img.lemde.fr/2023/04/18/0/0/5760/3840/800/0/75/0/38ab1f9_1681820093308-judean-winers5.jpg 800w" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 556px, 100vw" alt="From left to right, the four winemakers who contributed to the recognition of the Judean Hills appellation, Eran Pick, Golan Flam, Doron Rav Hon and Eli Ben Zaken, in Ben Zaken's vineyards in Judea, Israel, in 2016." width="664" height="443"> <img src="https://img.lemde.fr/2023/04/18/0/0/5760/3840/664/0/75/0/38ab1f9_1681820093308-judean-winers5.jpg" alt="From left to right, the four winemakers who contributed to the recognition of the Judean Hills appellation, Eran Pick, Golan Flam, Doron Rav Hon and Eli Ben Zaken, in Ben Zaken's vineyards in Judea, Israel, in 2016." sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 556px, 100vw" width="664" height="443"> </picture> <noscript> <img src="https://img.lemde.fr/2023/04/18/0/0/5760/3840/664/0/75/0/38ab1f9_1681820093308-judean-winers5.jpg" alt="From left to right, the four winemakers who contributed to the recognition of the Judean Hills appellation, Eran Pick, Golan Flam, Doron Rav Hon and Eli Ben Zaken, in Ben Zaken's vineyards in Judea, Israel, in 2016."> </noscript> <figcaption class="article__legend" aria-hidden="true">From left to right, the four winemakers who contributed to the recognition of the Judean Hills appellation, Eran Pick, Golan Flam, Doron Rav Hon and Eli Ben Zaken, in Ben Zaken's vineyards in Judea, Israel, in 2016. <span class="article__credit" aria-hidden="true">DAN PEREZ</span> </figcaption> </figure> <p class="article__paragraph ">The history of Israeli wine is very old but chaotic, with long stretches of inactivity and a few rebirths linked to its complicated past and the successive conflicts of recent decades. Like in neighboring Lebanon, traces of wine production can be found well before our era, including vestiges of over 2,000-year-old wine presses, but vines laid dormant for centuries following Islam's arrival in Palestine. Only in the second half<strong> </strong>of the 19<sup>th</sup> century did the wine industry begin to structure itself with the support of Baron James de Rothschild (1792-1868), but this momentum was quickly destroyed by phylloxera. In the 1950s, the sector rebounded when European winegrowers settled and built a few large wine-growing entities. The final stage began with the creation of small estates, first at the end of the 1980s and then especially at the turn of the millennium, which breathed new life into the industry.</p> <div id="inread_top" class="dfp-slot dfp__slot dfp__inread dfp-unloaded" data-format="inread_top" aria-hidden="true"></div> <p class="article__paragraph ">This history has led to a contrasting viticultural landscape, with on one side a "big five" – Carmel, Barkan, Golan Heights, Teperberg and Binyamina – accounting for 80% of all production, and on the other some 300 wineries, many of which were created just 20 or 30 years ago. Production is in line with the scale of a country twice the size of the Ile-de-France region: 8,000 hectares and 40 million bottles per year – by comparison, France produces well over a hundred times more.</p> <p class="article__paragraph ">Vineyards have fled the hot plains and their dry soils for the hills at higher altitudes to seek cooler temperatures. Most of them are located in northern Israel near the Lebanese border, where the Galilee highlands are swept by the breezes from Mount Hermon. Not far away, the Golan Heights and its water-rich mountains are home to a few hundred hectares of plantations. A handful of estates are also present in the southern Negev region, at least where the land lies between 500 and 1,000 meters above sea level. In 2022, they applied for an appellation to have their wines' uniqueness recognized.</p> <p class="article__paragraph ">And then there is Judea. Here, in the hills of Jerusalem in central Israel, is where the country's wine renaissance is happening. As a symbol, its producers obtained in August 2020 the country's first official appellation, Judean Hills, produced by passionate winemakers heading small private wineries, some of which have gained worldwide notoriety.</p> <section class="catcher catcher--favoris"> <div class="catcher__content"><span class="catcher__title catcher__title--hide">Read more</span><span class="catcher__desc"> <span class="icon__premium"><span class="sr-only">Subscribers only</span></span> <a href="https://www.lemonde.fr/en/economy/article/2023/02/14/french-wines-and-spirits-set-new-export-record_6015768_19.html" class="js-article-read-also catcher--favoris__link" data-premium="1">French wines and spirits set new export record</a> </span> </div> </section> <h2 class="article__sub-title">The all-important kosher label</h2> <p class="article__paragraph ">One of the pioneers of this revival is Eli Ben Zaken, the bright-eyed, white-haired and patriarchal-bearded figurehead of the Judean wine industry with his Domaine du Castel, located on a hill near Jerusalem. In a book released in February, <em>Domaine du Castel. The Biography</em>, journalist Adam S. Montefiore tells the story of this winemaker and his estate that have contributed to spreading Israeli wine's recognition beyond its borders.</p> <p class="reading-mode-only "><strong>You have 59.7% of this article left to read. 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