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フィオレンティーナをフィレンツェで 骨付きステーキの香りに心奪われる | 朝日新聞デジタルマガジン&[and]

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一皿の料理にかける愛も情熱も並々ならないものです。食べてみると、美味しさの奥深くにどこか知らない隠し味がある。イタリアで暮らす俳優・渡辺早織さんがそんなイタリアの愛に溢れた料理と、とっておきの味の秘密にせまるイタリア料理紀行です。" /> <!-- facebook --> <meta property="og:title" content="フィオレンティーナをフィレンツェで 骨付きステーキの香りに心奪われる | 朝日新聞デジタルマガジン&[and]" /> <meta property="og:description" content="イタリアはなんといっても愛の国! 一皿の料理にかける愛も情熱も並々ならないものです。食べてみると、美味しさの奥深くにどこか知らない隠し味がある。イタリアで暮らす俳優・渡辺早織さんがそんなイタリアの愛に溢れた料理と、とっておきの味の秘密にせまるイタリア料理紀行です。" /> <meta property="og:url" content="https://www.asahi.com/and/article/20241126/425230014/" /> <meta property="og:site_name" content="朝日新聞デジタルマガジン&[and]" /> <meta property="og:image" content="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/TFV_IMG_2941.jpg" /> <meta property="og:locale" content="ja_JP" /> <meta property="og:type" content="article" /> <meta property="fb:app_id" content="1590304517905876" /> <!-- twitter --> <meta name="twitter:title" content="フィオレンティーナをフィレンツェで 骨付きステーキの香りに心奪われる | 朝日新聞デジタルマガジン&[and]" /> <meta name="twitter:description" content="イタリアはなんといっても愛の国! 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mod-inner wide"> <div class="l-article-hero-head mod-inner narrow"> <h1 class="l-article-ttl">フィオレンティーナをフィレンツェで 骨付きステーキの香りに心奪われる</h1> <div class="l-article-meta"> <div class="l-article-meta-left"> <a href="https://www.asahi.com/and/food/" class="l-article-category">FOOD</a> <time class="l-article-published" datetime="2024-11-26">2024.11.26</time> <div class="l-article-meta-border"></div> <div class="l-article-overview"> <a href="javascript:void(0)" id="js-article-hero-like-btn" class="l-article-favorite js-like-btn"> <img src="https://www.asahi.com/and/wp-content/themes/and/assets/img/ico_heart.svg" alt="" class="js-img2svg"> <span class="js-like-btn-count"></span> </a><!-- /.l-article-favorite --> <a href="javascript:void(0)" id="js-article-hero-comment-btn" class="l-article-comment"> <img src="https://www.asahi.com/and/wp-content/themes/and/assets/img/ico_comment.svg" alt="" class="js-img2svg"> <span class="js-comment-count">1</span> </a><!-- /.l-article-comment --> </div><!-- /.l-article-overview --> </div><!-- /.l-article-meta-left --> </div><!-- /.l-article-meta --> <div class="l-article-bookmark js-article-bookmark"><img src="https://www.asahi.com/and/wp-content/themes/and/assets/img/ico_bookmark.svg" class="js-img2svg" alt=""></div> </div><!-- /.l-article-inner-head --> <figure class="l-article-thumb"> <img src="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/TOP_IMG_2941.jpg" alt=""> <figcaption>フィレンツェの旧市街を一望できるミケランジェロ広場</figcaption> </figure> <!-- /.l-article-thumb --> </div><!-- /.l-article-hero --> </div><!-- /.l-article-contents-head --> <div class="l-article-author"> <div class="mod-inner"> <ul class="l-article-author-list"> <li class="l-article-author-item mod-author single travel js-has-common-link"> <figure class="mod-author-thumb"><a href="https://www.asahi.com/and/creators/saori_watanabe/"><img src="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/480.480profile.jpg" alt="渡辺早織"></a></figure> <div class="mod-author-right"> <div class="mod-author-right-top"> <div class="mod-author-name"><a href="https://www.asahi.com/and/creators/saori_watanabe/" class="js-ttl-link">渡辺早織</a></div> <span class="mod-author-job">俳優・タレント</span> </div><!-- /.mod-author-right-top --> <p class="mod-author-desc">モデルとして2007年デビュー。その後、ドラマ/映画/CM/テレビ番組にてレギュラー出演をするな …</p> </div><!-- /.mod-author-right --> </li><!-- /.mod-author-right --> </ul><!-- /.l-article-author-list --> </div><!-- /.mod-inner --> </div><!-- /.l-article-author --> <div class="l-article-inner" id="js-article-inner"> <div class="l-article-wrap" id="js-article-wrap"> <div class="l-article-main"> <!-- cxenseparse_start --> <div class="l-article-body"> <!-- ここから本文 --> <div class="wp-block-group mod-box is-layout-flow wp-block-group-is-layout-flow"><div class="wp-block-group__inner-container"> <p>イタリアはなんといっても愛の国! 一皿の料理にかける愛も情熱も並々ならないものです。食べてみると、美味しさの奥深くにどこか知らない隠し味がある。イタリアで暮らす俳優・渡辺早織さんがそんなイタリアの愛に溢れた料理と、とっておきの味の秘密にせまるイタリア料理紀行です。</p> </div></div> <p>花の都フィレンツェ。</p> <p>世界中の人々を魅了しつづけるイタリアの中でも人気の観光都市。</p> <p>ご多分にもれず、当時16歳だった私もこの街に憧れて、イタリアに夢を見た。</p> <p>将来はフィレンツェのドゥオーモで結婚式を挙げたいな。</p> <p>そんなことを考えていたのはもう随分と前の話だ。</p> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" width="770" height="513" src="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2942.jpg" alt="フィオレンティーナをフィレンツェで 骨付きステーキの香りに心奪われる" class="wp-image-425233723" srcset="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2942.jpg 770w, https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2942.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 770px) 100vw, 770px"><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">フィレンツェのドゥオーモ、サンタ・マリア・デル・フィオーレ大聖堂はいつ見ても美しい</figcaption></figure><h2 class="wp-block-heading">5~6cmの厚みで1kg以上</h2> <p>「おいしいフィオレンティーナが食べたい!」</p> <p>月日が流れフィレンツェへ向かう目的はすっかり変わってしまった。</p> <p>それでも「いいね! とびきりのお店に行こう!」と張り切って、車で一緒に食の遠征に出てくれる夫と出会ったのだから、結婚式こそこの大聖堂で挙げてはいないものの、あながち夢は叶(かな)ったと言えなくもないだろう。</p> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" width="770" height="513" src="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2938.jpg" alt="フィオレンティーナをフィレンツェで 骨付きステーキの香りに心奪われる" class="wp-image-425233724" srcset="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2938.jpg 770w, https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2938.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 770px) 100vw, 770px"><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">フィオレンティーナ</figcaption></figure><p>フィオレンティーナとは骨付きの分厚いステーキのことで、正式にはビステッカ・アッラ・フィオレンティーナ(bistecca alla fiorentina)。</p> <p>ここフィレンツェの一番の名物料理と言える。</p> <p>「フィレンツェ風(=フィオレンティーナ)」と呼ぶには特別な基準があり、伝統的にはキアニーナという種類の白い牛の肉を使うこと、最低でも2週間は熟成させること、そして5~6cmの厚みで1kg以上のかたまりにカットして焼くことなどがある。</p> <p>その見た目はテーブルに運ばれてきた時にわっと歓声があがるほど迫力満点だ。</p> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" width="770" height="513" src="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2940.jpg" alt="フィオレンティーナをフィレンツェで 骨付きステーキの香りに心奪われる" class="wp-image-425233725" srcset="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2940.jpg 770w, https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2940.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 770px) 100vw, 770px"><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">純白が美しいキアニーナ種</figcaption></figure><p>ここトスカーナ州の料理といえばやはり肉料理だ。</p> <p>州都フィレンツェの中心地こそ厳かな教会や歴史的芸術品が華やかにあふれているが、少し離れればたちまちに田園風景が広がり、子供のころに絵本で見たようなそこに立つだけでゆったりと温かい気持ちになれる、そんなのどかな景色が街とは違う美しさで私たちを包んでくれる。</p> <p>この豊かな緑と土壌がワインはもちろん、牛や豚の畜産業を盛んにし、今日もトスカーナの食文化を支えているのだ。</p> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" width="770" height="513" src="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2944.jpg" alt="フィオレンティーナをフィレンツェで 骨付きステーキの香りに心奪われる" class="wp-image-425233726" srcset="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2944.jpg 770w, https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2944.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 770px) 100vw, 770px"><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">念願のフィオレンティーナを前にしたらこの表情</figcaption></figure><h2 class="wp-block-heading">香ばしくもどこか甘い香りの秘密は?</h2> <p>「これこれ、これが食べたかったの!」</p> <p>仏のような笑顔でにこにこ見守る夫を前にさっそく大口をあけて口いっぱいに頬張(ほおば)る。</p> <p>じゅわっと口の中で音が聞こえそうなほどにあふれる肉汁と、カリッと焼けた表面に対して中心部はすっと歯がとおるやわらかな食感。</p> <p>「んん~」と思わず目を閉じてうなる。なんておいしいんだろうか。</p> <p>和牛とはまた違うおいしさで、脂身の少ない赤身肉だからこそパクパクと食べ進めてしまう。</p> <p>この肉の持つうまみをかみしめ夢中になっていたら、ついに最後まで塩を振らずに食べ切ってしまった。</p> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" width="770" height="513" src="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2939.jpg" alt="フィオレンティーナをフィレンツェで 骨付きステーキの香りに心奪われる" class="wp-image-425233727" srcset="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2939.jpg 770w, https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2939.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 770px) 100vw, 770px"><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">キラキラと輝く断面</figcaption></figure><div class="wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-layout-1 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex"> <div class="wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow"> <p>このお肉自体のおいしさにも感激しきりなのだが、もう一つ驚くのはその香りの良さだ。</p> <p>力強い肉の香りというよりは、香ばしくもどこか甘く、すーっと鼻の中に入っては体全体を魅了する心奪われる香りなのだ。</p> <p>きっとさくらの木や何かおいしい香りの木の炭火を使っているのだろう。</p> </div> <div class="wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow"> <!-- /57465213/www.asahi.com/and_t/SP/kiji_rect_1st, /57465213/www.asahi.com/and_t/PC/kiji_rect_1st --> <div id="kiji_rect_1st"> <script> googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('kiji_rect_1st'); }); </script> </div> </div> </div> <p>自分なりに仮説を立てて、骨についた一番おいしいであろう部分の肉もきっちりそいで食べ終えて、お店の人にたずねてみた。</p> <p>「あまりに良い香りなので…何の木で炭火にしているのですか?」</p> <p>そうすると店員さんは少し怪訝(けげん)な顔をして、</p> <p>「普通の木だよ。普通の炭火で焼いているんだ」</p> <p>そう言って忙しそうに別のテーブルへと去っていってしまった。</p> <p>つまりはこの味も香りも全て肉がもつ特有のものなのだ。</p> <p>何の味付けもせずにただひたすらに食べてしまったこの肉そのもののおいしさなのだ。</p> <p>ふと向かう道中に見た美しき田園風景が頭をよぎる。</p> <p>この地で育ち、この地の草を食(は)み、おだやかな環境で育ったあの白い牛たちを。</p> <p>なんだかすごく合点がいった。</p> <p>フィオレンティーナのおいしさの秘密は土地にあり。</p> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" width="770" height="513" src="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2943.jpg" alt="フィオレンティーナをフィレンツェで 骨付きステーキの香りに心奪われる" class="wp-image-425233728" srcset="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2943.jpg 770w, https://www.asahicom.jp/and/data/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/RIMG_2943.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 770px) 100vw, 770px"><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">トスカーナの田園風景</figcaption></figure><p>「食べすぎちゃったね」</p> <p>おなかをさすりながらも、とびきりの笑顔の夫の横顔が今日の日を物語っている。</p> <p>顔に当たる夜風はひんやりと冷たいが、今日はなんだか心地いい。</p> <p>すっかり暗くなった夜のフィレンツェをゆっくりゆっくり歩いた。<span class="end_mark"><img decoding="async" src="https://www.asahi.com/and/wp-content/themes/and/assets/img/ico_end_paragraph.svg" alt=""></span></p> <p>フィレンツェの動画は<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zza9cJbY23s" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">こちら</a></p> <div class="mod-center"> 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<span class="js-comment-count">1</span> </div><!-- /.l-article-commentbar-length --> <div class="l-article-commentbar-middle-top-links"> <a href="javascript:void(0)" class="js-show-login-modal-btn js-is-guest"><b>ログイン</b></a> <a href="/and/guide/#chapter_3" target="_blank">利用規約</a> </div><!-- /.l-article-commentbar-middle-top-links --> </div><!-- /.l-article-commentbar-middle-top --> <div class="comment-form l-article-commentbar-form"> <textarea rows="8" class="mod-textarea" disabled="disabled"></textarea> <p class="form-submit"><button class="submit mod-btn elongate round travel" disabled="disabled" value="送信する">送信する</button></p> </div> <p class="l-article-commentbar-login-suggest js-is-guest">&MEMBER(登録無料)としてログインすると<br>コメントを書き込めるようになります。</p> </div><!-- /.l-article-commentbar-middle --> <div class="l-article-commentbar-bottom"> <div class="l-article-commentbar-bottom-sort"> <select name="" id=""> <option value="">評価の高い順 ▼</option> <option value="desc">最新順 ▼</option> <option value="asc">古い順 ▼</option> </select> </div> <ul id="js-article-comment-list" class="l-article-commentbar-bottom-list"> <li class="comment byuser comment-author-guest1 even thread-even depth-1 l-article-commentbar-bottom-item" id="comment-3725"> <div class="l-article-commentbar-bottom-top"> <div class="l-article-commentbar-bottom-author"> <figure class="l-article-commentbar-bottom-author-thumb"><img src="https://placehold.jp/ededed/cccccc/500x500.png?text=NO%20IMAGE"></figure><div class="l-article-commentbar-bottom-author-right"> <div class="l-article-commentbar-bottom-author-name 0">Takaさん</div> <time class="l-article-commentbar-bottom-published" datetime="2024-11-28 17:35:43">2024年11月28日 5:35 PM</time> </div> </div> <div class="l-article-commentbar-bottom-top-right"> <a href="javascript:void(0)" class="l-article-commentbar-bottom-like js-like-btn js-like-comment" data-cid="3725"><img src="https://www.asahicom.jp/and/wp-content/themes/and/assets/img/ico_like.svg" alt="" 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href="javascript:void(0)" type="submit" class="mod-btn black xl round arrow border-gray">ログイン</button> <p>&MEMBER登録は<a href="https://digital.asahi.com/and/member/signup" class="mod-inlinelink">こちら</a></p> </div> <!-- /.mod-modal-submit --> </form> <!-- /.mod-modal-form --> </div> <!-- /.mod-modal-body --> </div> <!-- /.mod-modal-contents --> </div> <!-- /.mod-modal-overlay --> </div> <!-- /.mod-modal --> <div id="js-mile-modal" class="mod-modal"> <div class="mod-modal-overlay"> <div class="mod-modal-contents"> <div id="js-mile-modal-close" class="mod-modal-close"><span></span></div> <div class="mod-modal-body"> <h2 class="mod-modal-heading">&MILEの加算アクション</h2> <div class="mod-sub-block bg-gray"> <ul class="dot_list"> <li>&MEMBER新規登録:<b class="color-navy">100マイル</b> </li> <li>記事に「LIKE」を押す:<b class="color-navy">10マイル</b> </li> <li>コメントの投稿:<b class="color-navy">30マイル</b> </li> <li>自分のコメントに「LIKE」がつく:<b class="color-navy">10マイル</b> </li> <p class="small_comment" 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