Μια βόλτα στο Τσουκούρτζουμα, την ωραιότερη γειτονιά της Κωνσταντινούπολης

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d="M10,0c-.2,0-.3,0-.5.2L2,5.9c-1,.7-1.5,1.8-1.5,3v9.8c0,.7.6,1.3,1.3,1.3h5.3c.7,0,1.3-.6,1.3-1.3v-5.1c0-.2.1-.3.3-.3h2.6c.2,0,.3.1.3.3v5.1c0,.7.6,1.3,1.3,1.3h5.3c.7,0,1.3-.6,1.3-1.3v-9.8c0-1.2-.6-2.3-1.5-3L10.5.2c-.1-.1-.3-.2-.5-.2ZM10,1.7l7,5.4c.6.4.9,1.1.9,1.8v9.5h-4.7v-4.9c0-1-.8-1.8-1.8-1.8h-2.6c-1,0-1.8.8-1.8,1.8v4.9H2.1v-9.5c0-.7.3-1.4.9-1.8L10,1.7Z"/></svg></a> <a href="/escape/2001/category" rel="category tag">ΤΑΞΙΔΙΑ</a> <a href="/escape/destination/2011/subcategory" rel="category tag">ΠΡΟΟΡΙΣΜΟΙ</a> </div> <h1 class="entry-title small-mt-1 small-mb-1">Μια βόλτα στο Τσουκούρτζουμα, την ωραιότερη γειτονιά της Κωνσταντινούπολης</h1> <div class="entry-summary single-summary"> <p>Γλυκό σαν το όνομά του, το Τσουκούρτζουμα είναι η γειτονιά των αντικέρ, του Μουσείου της Αθωότητας του Ορχάν Παμούκ και του ιστορικού ελληνικού σχολείου που λέγεται Ζωγράφειο.</p> </div> <div class="entry-meta u-items--center small-mt-1 medium-mt-2"> <span class="byline small-mt-1 small-mb-1"><a class="author-avatar" href="/author/5/hro-koynadh"><noscript><img data-del="avatar" alt="Ηρώ Κουνάδη" src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/authors/photos/5-kounadi600.jpg" class="avatar pp-user-avatar avatar-40 photo" height="40" width="40" /></noscript><img data-del="avatar" alt="Ηρώ Κουνάδη" src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/authors/photos/5-kounadi600.jpg" data-src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/authors/photos/5-kounadi600.jpg" class="avatar pp-user-avatar avatar-40 photo lazyloaded" height="40" width="40"></a><i>γράφει:</i><span class="author vcard"><a class="fn" href="/author/5/hro-koynadh">Ηρώ Κουνάδη</a></span></span> <span class="post-date posted-on"> <time class="entry-date published" datetime="2024-11-22T00:17:00+02:00">22 Νοεμβρίου 2024</time> </span> <span class="views-count" style="display:none"> <svg class="rpr-svg-icon icon-eye" width="17" height="17" aria-hidden="true" role="img" focusable="false" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 96 96"> <path d="M48,20c21.15,0,34.502,19.998,38.998,28C82.494,56.016,69.145,76,48,76C26.853,76,13.503,56.118,9.003,48.149 C13.5,40.101,26.853,20,48,20 M48,12C16,12,0,48.166,0,48.166S16,84,48,84s48-36,48-36S80,12,48,12L48,12z M48,40c4.411,0,8,3.589,8,8s-3.589,8-8,8s-8-3.589-8-8S43.589,40,48,40 M48,32c-8.836,0-16,7.164-16,16 c0,8.837,7.164,16,16,16c8.837,0,16-7.163,16-16C64,39.164,56.837,32,48,32L48,32z"></path> </svg> <span class="posted-on">Παλαιότερο των 360 ημερών</span> </span> </div> <div class="row social-sharing"> <div class="column small-12"> <div class="u-items--middle u-items--center iconslist icons-single-color"> <div class="sharethis-inline-share-buttons"></div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="small-mt-1 medium-mt-2"> <figure class="entry-image featured-image alignfull articleimg"> <noscript> <img src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/articles/photos/main/2008342-tzoukourtzouma1280.jpg" class="attachment-full size-full" alt="Μια βόλτα στο Τσουκούρτζουμα, την ωραιότερη γειτονιά της Κωνσταντινούπολης" /> </noscript> <img src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/articles/photos/main/2008342-tzoukourtzouma1280.jpg" data-src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/articles/photos/main/2008342-tzoukourtzouma1280.jpg" class="attachment-full size-full lazyloaded" alt="Μια βόλτα στο Τσουκούρτζουμα, την ωραιότερη γειτονιά της Κωνσταντινούπολης" width="1280" height="720"> <figcaption class="blocks-gallery-item__caption"></figcaption> </figure> </div> </div> </header> <div class="post-content"> <div class="article-body clearfix entry-content post-content__side-padding"> <div class="maintext" id="article"> <p>Τα λιθόστρωτα δρομάκια του κάνουν ζιγκ-ζαγκ ανάμεσα σε πολύχρωμα κτίρια του 19ου αιώνα με αψιδωτά παράθυρα, ξύλινα σαχνισιά και έρκερ –αυτές τις αρχιτεκτονικές προεξοχές, σαν κλειστά μπαλκόνια. Οι γάτες του λαγοκοιμούνται επάνω σε γραμμόφωνα και σωρούς από ρετρό βαλίτσες, που απλώνουν στα πεζοδρόμια οι αντικερί του. Από τα μπαράκια του ακούγονται έθνικ, ταξιδιάρικες μουσικές. Ένα αυτοκίνητο το δεκάλεπτο περνάει από εδώ, διακόπτοντας την ραχάτικη ησυχία που βασιλεύει. Σχεδόν εκπλήσσει η υπενθύμιση πως βρισκόμαστε ακόμα σε αιώνα στον οποίο υπάρχουν αυτοκίνητα.</p> <p>Το Τσουκούρτζουμα (Çukurcuma γράφεται στα τούρκικα) είναι <strong>η γειτονιά που έκανε διάσημη ο Ορχάν Παμούκ</strong>, πρώτα με το βιβλίο <strong>Το Μουσείο της Αθωότητας</strong>, που εκτυλίσσεται εδώ, και ύστερα με το ίδιο <a href="https://www.masumiyetmuzesi.org/en" target="_blank" rel="noopener">το Μουσείο</a>, το πρώτο μουσείο στην ιστορία της ανθρωπότητας που προέκυψε από ένα μυθιστόρημα, και το οποίο βρίσκεται μέχρι σήμερα σε ένα από τα μικρότερα δρομάκια της γειτονιάς. Στους χάρτες το Τσουκούρτζουμα το βρίσκεις <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/AE2ae2bfwM6HNC9TA" target="_blank" rel="noopener">εδώ</a>, στην περιοχή του Μπέγιογλου, δυο βήματα από την Ιστικλάλ, και δίπλα σε μια άλλη αγαπημένη γειτονιά, το Τζιχάνγκιρ με τα υπερκούλ μπαράκια του.</p> <p><img border="0" alt="" width="800" height="548" loading="lazy" class="lazy " data-src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/inlinepics/%CE%97%CF%81%CF%8E/%CE%A4%CE%B1%CE%BE%CE%AF%CE%B4%CE%B9%CE%B1/%CF%84%CF%83%CE%BF%CF%85%CE%BA%CE%BF%CF%8D%CF%81%CF%84%CE%B6%CE%BF%CF%85%CE%BC%CE%B1%203.jpg" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAP///wAAACH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw=="></p> <p><strong>Γνωστό για τις αντικερί του, που πολύ περισσότερο από μαγαζιά είναι αξιοθέατα</strong>, για τα café και τα εστιατόριά του, φυσικά για το προαναφερθέν μουσείο, αλλά πριν και πάνω και πέρα απ’ όλα για τις βόλτες στα δρομάκια του, κάτω από χρωματιστά παστέλ κτίρια που κάνουν τη γειτονιά να μοιάζει με σκηνικό από ταινία εποχής.</p> <p><img border="0" alt="" width="800" height="534" loading="lazy" class="lazy " data-src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/inlinepics/%CE%97%CF%81%CF%8E/%CE%A4%CE%B1%CE%BE%CE%AF%CE%B4%CE%B9%CE%B1/%CF%84%CF%83%CE%BF%CF%85%CE%BA%CE%BF%CF%8D%CF%81%CF%84%CE%B6%CE%BF%CF%85%CE%BC%CE%B1.jpg" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAP///wAAACH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw=="></p> <p><strong>Το παράξενο όνομά του σημαίνει «κοιλάδα της Παρασκευής»</strong>, κι είναι όντως σαν μικρή κοιλάδα το κοίλωμα ανάμεσα σε δύο λοφάκια που το φιλοξενεί. Στα χρόνια του Βυζαντίου το Τσουκούρτζουμα δεν κατοικούταν, κι ήταν εδώ που ο Μωάμεθ ο Πορθητής βρήκε από το 1453 την άπλα που χρειαζόταν για τις υπαίθριες παρασκευιάτικες προσευχές –εξ ου και Κοιλάδα της Παρασκευής.</p> <p><strong>Με τα χρόνια, η γειτονιά κατοικήθηκε από Έλληνες, Αρμένιους και Ευρωπαίους</strong>, που της άφησαν φεύγοντας κληροδότημα μια δυτικότροπη προοδευτικότητα η οποία αποτυπώνεται σταθερά στα αποτελέσματα των εκλογών –το Τσουκούρτζουμα ψηφίζει πάντα αριστερά.</p> <p><img border="0" alt="" width="800" height="533" loading="lazy" class="lazy " data-src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/inlinepics/%CE%97%CF%81%CF%8E/%CE%A4%CE%B1%CE%BE%CE%AF%CE%B4%CE%B9%CE%B1/%CF%84%CF%83%CE%BF%CF%85%CE%BA%CE%BF%CF%8D%CF%81%CF%84%CE%B6%CE%BF%CF%85%CE%BC%CE%B1%20%CE%B6%CF%89%CE%B3%CF%81%CE%AC%CF%86%CE%B5%CE%B9%CE%BF.jpg" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAP///wAAACH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw=="></p> <p><strong>Στη γειτονιά βρίσκεται και το αριστουργηματικό κτίριο του Ζωγράφειου Λυκείου</strong>, που χτίστηκε στα τέλη του 19ου αιώνα για να στεγάσει τους μαθητές της ελληνικής κοινότητας που είχαν πάψει να χωράνε στα άλλα δύο ελληνικά σχολεία, το Ζάππειο και το Σταυροδρόμι της Παναγίας –ενδεικτικά, αυτό το τελευταίο, είχε φτάσει εκείνες τις μέρες να αριθμεί περισσότερους από 800 μαθητές. Το όνομά του το πήρε το 1890 από τον μεγάλο δωρητή του, Χριστάκη Ζωγράφο, που ζούσε εκείνη την εποχή στο Παρίσι. Το σχολείο, στο οποίο φοίτησε μεταξύ άλλων ο Πατριάρχης Βαρθολομαίος, λειτουργεί κανονικά μέχρι σήμερα, αν και πλέον αριθμεί μόλις 45 μαθητές –για να έχεις ένα μέτρο σύγκρισης, πριν τα πογκρόμ του 1955, ο αριθμός αυτός ήταν 350.</p> <p><img border="0" alt="" width="800" height="534" loading="lazy" class="lazy " data-src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/inlinepics/%CE%97%CF%81%CF%8E/%CE%A4%CE%B1%CE%BE%CE%AF%CE%B4%CE%B9%CE%B1/%CF%84%CF%83%CE%BF%CF%85%CE%BA%CE%BF%CF%8D%CF%81%CF%84%CE%B6%CE%BF%CF%85%CE%BC%CE%B1%202.jpg" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAP///wAAACH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw=="></p> <p><strong>Ένα από τα χαρακτηριστικότερα δρομάκια της γειτονιάς, η οδός Αλγερίας</strong> (Cezayir, αν την ψάχνεις στους χάρτες) στα σκαλάκια της οποίας απλώνουν τα τραπέζια τους χαριτωμένα café και ψαγμένα εστιατόρια, δεν λεγόταν πάντα Αλγερίας. Στους παλιούς Κωνσταντινουπολίτες ήταν γνωστή ως οδός Γαλλίας. Όταν η Γαλλία αναγνώρισε επίσημα την γενοκτονία των Αρμενίων, το τουρκικό κράτος την μετονόμασε σε οδό Αλγερίας, σε ένα κλείσιμο ματιού που θα υπενθύμιζε στους Γάλλους τα δικά τους εγκλήματα.</p> <p><img border="0" alt="" width="800" height="397" loading="lazy" class="lazy " data-src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/inlinepics/%CE%97%CF%81%CF%8E/%CE%A4%CE%B1%CE%BE%CE%AF%CE%B4%CE%B9%CE%B1/cezayir%20cukurcuma.jpg" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAP///wAAACH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw=="> </p></div> </div> </div> <footer class="entry-footer"> <div id="fb-root"></div> <script async defer crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://connect.facebook.net/el_GR/sdk.js#xfbml=1&version=v13.0&appId=219691128053407&autoLogAppEvents=1" nonce="eHPsKRb8"></script> <div class="single-section fb-like u-items--middle u-items--center" data-href="https://www.in2life.gr/article/2008513/mia-volta-sto-tsoykoyrtzoyma-thn-oraioterh-geitonia-ths-konstantinoypolhs" data-width="300" data-layout="standard" data-action="like" data-size="large" data-share="false"></div> <div class="single-section single-section__author-box small-mt-2"> <div class="single-post-edit u-flex u-items--center u-items--middle"> <div class="single-post-edit__separator"></div> </div> <div class="row social-sharing"> <div class="column small-12 small-pb-2 medium-pb-3"> <div class="u-items--middle u-items--center iconslist icons-multi-color"> <div class="sharethis-inline-share-buttons"></div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="row small-mt-2 medium-mt-4 small-mb-4"><div class="column author-box text-center"><a class="author-avatar" href="/author/5/hro-koynadh"><noscript><img data-del="avatar" alt="Ηρώ Κουνάδη" src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/authors/photos/5-kounadi600.jpg" class="avatar pp-user-avatar avatar-96 photo" height="96" width="96" /></noscript><img data-del="avatar" alt="Ηρώ Κουνάδη" src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/authors/photos/5-kounadi600.jpg" data-src="https://www.in2life.gr/media/authors/photos/5-kounadi600.jpg" class="avatar pp-user-avatar avatar-96 photo ls-is-cached lazyloaded" height="96" width="96"></a><span class="byline"><span class="author main-font vcard"><a class="url fn n" href="/author/5/hro-koynadh">Ηρώ Κουνάδη</a></span></span><div class="post-content__side-padding text-center entry-summary"><p>Γεννήθηκε στον Πειραιά, μεγάλωσε στην αθάνατη ελληνική επαρχία που της έμαθε να εκτιμάει την Αθήνα. Αγαπάει τα ταξίδια, το θέατρο, τις γάτες της και τα βιβλία του Χούλιο Κορτάσαρ, και πιστεύει ακράδαντα στο ρητό που λέει ότι «οι μόνοι νορμάλ άνθρωποι είναι αυτοί που δεν ξέρεις καλά». Σπούδασε Επικοινωνία και ΜΜΕ στο Πανεπιστήμιο Αθηνών όταν ακόμα το internet το λέγαμε «νέα μέσα» και ήρθε στο in2life το 2006, για να γράφει για ταξίδια. 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