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type-page status-publish has-post-thumbnail entry" aria-label="Central Kazakhstan" itemscope itemtype="https://schema.org/CreativeWork"><header class="entry-header"><h1 class="entry-title" itemprop="headline">Central Kazakhstan</h1></header><div class="entry-content" itemprop="text"><div class="before-content"><section id="custom_html-11" class="widget_text widget widget_custom_html"><div class="widget_text widget-wrap"><div class="textwidget custom-html-widget"><script async src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-3683722614075610" crossorigin="anonymous"></script> <ins class="adsbygoogle" style="display:inline-block;width:300px;height:250px" data-ad-client="ca-pub-3683722614075610" data-ad-slot="2245724446"></ins> <script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div></div></section></div><p>People tend to look at a map of Kazakhstan and say: “Looks like there is nothing here in the middle, we can just pass through quickly.”</p><p>2 mistakes there. First off, there is something of interest. Secondly, you cannot pass through quickly. The distances are huge.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/soyuz-landing-snow-steppe.jpg"><img decoding="async" width="700" height="440" src="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/soyuz-landing-snow-steppe-700x440.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-65384"/></a><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">A Soyuz space capsule landing on the snowy steppe of Central Kazakhstan</figcaption></figure><p>Come here for solitude, for offroad expeditions, for the eery and obscure. Come here to sense the atmosphere of the endless steppe, and to discover Kazakh culture.</p><div class="in-article"><script async src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script> <ins class="adsbygoogle" style="display:block" data-ad-client="ca-pub-3683722614075610" data-ad-slot="3604170047" data-ad-format="auto" data-full-width-responsive="true"></ins> <script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div><div id="ez-toc-container" class="ez-toc-v2_0_68_1 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-custom ez-toc-container-direction"><p class="ez-toc-title">Table of Contents</p> <label for="ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-item-674c253ac386e" class="ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-label"><span class=""><span class="eztoc-hide" style="display:none;">Toggle</span><span class="ez-toc-icon-toggle-span"><svg style="fill: #0a0a0a;color:#0a0a0a" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="list-377408" width="20px" height="20px" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none"><path d="M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z" fill="currentColor"></path></svg><svg style="fill: #0a0a0a;color:#0a0a0a" class="arrow-unsorted-368013" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="10px" height="10px" viewBox="0 0 24 24" version="1.2" baseProfile="tiny"><path d="M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z"/></svg></span></span></label><input type="checkbox" id="ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-item-674c253ac386e" aria-label="Toggle" /><nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1 ' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class="ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1" href="#karaganda-and-around" title="Karaganda and around">Karaganda and around</a></li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class="ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2" href="#the-middle" title="The middle">The middle</a></li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class="ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3" href="#kyzylorda-aralsk-baikonur-aqtobe" title="Kyzylorda, Aralsk, Baikonur & Aqtobe">Kyzylorda, Aralsk, Baikonur & Aqtobe</a></li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class="ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4" href="#next-destinations" title="Next destinations">Next destinations</a></li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class="ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-5" href="#more-on-kazakhstan" title="More on Kazakhstan">More on Kazakhstan</a></li></ul></nav></div><h2 class="wp-block-heading"><span class="ez-toc-section" id="karaganda-and-around"></span>Karaganda and around<span class="ez-toc-section-end"></span></h2><p><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/karaganda/">Karaganda</a> is the pulsating heart of this nowhere-land, a surprisingly pleasant and progressive city. Its dark history of repression, as well as its current large-scale industries, are good reasons to visit the city and its satellite town <strong>Temirtau</strong>.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter"><a href="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/temirtau-steelworks.jpg"><img decoding="async" width="700" height="421" src="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/temirtau-steelworks-700x421.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-28461" srcset="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/temirtau-steelworks-700x421.jpg 700w, https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/temirtau-steelworks-150x90.jpg 150w, https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/temirtau-steelworks.jpg 1024w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /></a><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Gigantic, enormously polluting steelworks at Temirtau</figcaption></figure></div><p><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/karkaralinsk/">Karkaralinsk national park</a> and the Kent and Bugyly mountains are unspectacular, but very quiet, natural retreats from the harmful city smog, with some archaeological remains to boot.</p><p><strong>Bayanaul national park</strong> serves as the regional beach. Although there should be good hiking as well, it is best avoided in summer – the crowds suck all the enjoyment out of the place.</p><p>Stretching what counts as “around”, 400 km south of Karaganda lies the industrial beach town of <a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/balkhash/">Balkhash</a>. <a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/center/balkhash/">Lake Balkhash</a> is known for its fishing and birding, both of which are best on the southern side.</p><p><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/center/balkhash/bektau-ata/" data-type="page" data-id="77649">Bektau-Ata</a> is an unusual camp spot on the road to Almaty, while at <a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/priozersk/">Priozersk</a> you can visit ruins and missile museums from the Soviet Cold War defense program.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lake-balkhash.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="700" height="454" src="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/lake-balkhash.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-72950"/></a><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Lake Balkhash is wild and hot in summer</figcaption></figure><h2 class="wp-block-heading"><span class="ez-toc-section" id="the-middle"></span>The middle<span class="ez-toc-section-end"></span></h2><p>West of Karaganda lies another big mining town: <strong>Zhezkazgan</strong>. This really is the end of the line. From here, steppe explorers can try crossing to <a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/center/kyzylorda/">Kyzylorda</a>, or even <a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/center/kyzylorda/aralsk/">Aralsk</a>.</p><p>En route to Kyzylorda, you pass the <strong>Betpak-Dala</strong> desert, one of the few remaining places a herd of the embattled <strong>saiga</strong> still lives. If you head north instead, you can find mysterious “balbal” sculptures guarding the steppe around Ulytau.</p><div class="in-article"><script async src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script> <ins class="adsbygoogle" style="display:block" data-ad-client="ca-pub-3683722614075610" data-ad-slot="3376329967" data-ad-format="auto" data-full-width-responsive="true"></ins> <script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div><p><strong>Ulytau</strong> is known as the mythical heartland of Kazakhstan; this is where the nation was born. It is also known for having the best lamb in Kazakhstan. Though almost every region claims to have a spot like this, Ulytau is definitely the remotest of them all.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter"><a href="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Balbal-ulytau-e1367408515866.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="443" height="296" src="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Balbal-ulytau-e1367408515866.jpg" alt="Balbal-ulytau" class="wp-image-5281"/></a><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">An ancient balbal sculpture guarding the remote steppe around Ulytau</figcaption></figure></div><p>Undaunted overlanders might want to drive from Karaganda to <a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/ayagoz/">Ayagoz</a>. The road is absolutely horrible, which should serve as a good enough reason to do it.</p><h2 class="wp-block-heading"><span class="ez-toc-section" id="kyzylorda-aralsk-baikonur-aqtobe"></span>Kyzylorda, Aralsk, Baikonur & Aqtobe<span class="ez-toc-section-end"></span></h2><p>The main east-west highway runs from <strong>Shymkent </strong>to <a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/center/aktobe/">Aktobe</a>.</p><p>First stop is <a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/center/kyzylorda/">Kyzylorda</a>. Unfairly dubbed Kazakhstan’s most unattractive city, Kyzylorda is a provincial town with enough amenities to serve as a staging post en route to Aralsk, Baikonur and Aktobe.</p><div class="wp-block-image"><figure class="aligncenter"><a href="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/korkut-ata-monument.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="700" height="466" src="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/korkut-ata-monument-700x466.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-28459" srcset="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/korkut-ata-monument-700x466.jpg 700w, https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/korkut-ata-monument-150x100.jpg 150w, https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/korkut-ata-monument.jpg 800w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /></a><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Modernist Sufism at Korkut Ata near Kyzylorda, via <a href="https://eurasiaoverland.com/2011/05/14/28i/">Daniel Sprague</a></figcaption></figure></div><p>For those keen to explore the region’s smaller points of interest, there are mausoleums and ancient ruined cities galore in the wider <a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/center/kyzylorda/">Kyzylorda region</a>. It’s Kazakhstan’s most proudly Kazakh region; a good place to get off the beaten track and learn more about the culture of these Turkic steppe nomads, often so difficult to find in the more Slavicized cities of Kazakhstan.</p><p>Next stop en route is <a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/aralsk/">Aralsk</a>, the hub for visitors interested in seeing the <a href="https://caravanistan.com/uzbekistan/karakalpakstan/aral-sea/">Aral Sea</a> on the Kazakh side. After that comes the <strong>Baikonur Cosmodrome</strong>. It is still expensive and difficult to visit here, but if you are lucky, you can watch a rocket get launched into space, either while on a tour, or from outside of the closed city.</p><p><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/center/aktobe/">Aktobe</a> is definitely an off-beat destination. It is 100 km off the main highway, and most overlanders consequently avoid it by turning south towards <strong>Atyrau </strong>at Kandyagash.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/kazaly-train-station.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="700" height="470" src="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/kazaly-train-station-700x470.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-26629" srcset="https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/kazaly-train-station-700x470.jpg 700w, https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/kazaly-train-station-150x101.jpg 150w, https://caravanistan.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/kazaly-train-station.jpg 900w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /></a><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">The train station of Kazaly, a desert village halfway between Baikonur and Aralsk, is a leftover from the tsarist railway building projects to connect Turkestan to Russia</figcaption></figure><p>The <a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/center/aktobe/">Aktobe region</a> does have some, admittedly very niche points of interest, like a large meteor crater, steppe lakes, little mausoleums and a bunch of cretaceous mountains rising up from the plains. If you have a good 4WD or are up for renting one, these will prove interesting diversions  on your way to Russia or <a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/west/uralsk/">Uralsk</a>.</p><h2 class="wp-block-heading"><span class="ez-toc-section" id="next-destinations"></span>Next destinations<span class="ez-toc-section-end"></span></h2><ul class="wp-block-list"><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/almaty-region/">Almaty Region</a>: Kazakhstan’s most pleasant city, sat on the doorstep of a mountain range. Beyond, a landscape safari beckons.</li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/south/">The South</a>: Medieval mausoleums, and national parks sheltering tulips, birds, mountains and bears</li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/north/">The North</a>: Kazakhstan’s brash new capital stands in stark contrast to modest Altai</li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/west/">The West</a>: Oil towns, stark desert landscapes, and a cute Cossack town.</li></ul><h2 class="wp-block-heading"><span class="ez-toc-section" id="more-on-kazakhstan"></span>More on Kazakhstan<span class="ez-toc-section-end"></span></h2><ul class="wp-block-list"><li>The basics<ul class="wp-block-list"><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/">Kazakhstan starter guide</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/things-to-do/">Things to do</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/accommodation/kazakhstan/">Accommodation</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/budget/">Budget estimates</a>, <a href="https://caravanistan.com/phone-internet/kazakhstan/">communication</a> & <a href="https://caravanistan.com/money/kazakhstan/">banking</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/visa/kazakhstan">Visas</a> & <a href="https://caravanistan.com/border-crossings/kazakhstan/">border crossings</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/when-to-visit/">When to visit</a> & <a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/when-to-visit/events/">events calendar</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/books/" data-type="page" data-id="5900">Books</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/tours/kazakhstan/">Tours</a></li></ul></li><li>Transport<ul class="wp-block-list"><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/transport/driving/kazakhstan/">Self-driving</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/transport/train/kazakhstan/">Trains</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/transport/cycling/kazakhstan/">Cycling</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/transport/caspian-sea-ferry/" data-type="page" data-id="733">Caspian Sea Ferry</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/transport/taxi-apps/">Taxi apps</a></li></ul></li><li>Regions<ul class="wp-block-list"><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/north/">Northern Kazakhstan</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/center/">Central Kazakhstan</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/south/">Southern Kazakhstan</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/west/">Western Kazakhstan</a></li><li><a href="https://caravanistan.com/kazakhstan/almaty-region/">Almaty region</a></li></ul></li></ul></p></div><p style="font-style: italic;">Last updated on <time class="entry-modified-time" itemprop="dateModified" datetime="2023-06-30T11:39:10+06:00">June 30, 2023</time><br /></article></main></div></div><div 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