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button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 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xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23999'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 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button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' 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article-title-card-rectangle--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__container article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__image article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0ck7mgs.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0ck7mgs.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0ck7mgs.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0ck7mgs.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0ck7mgs.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0ck7mgs.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0ck7mgs.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0ck7mgs.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="The Lost Daughter bracingly showed the struggle of its heroine Leda as a young mother trying to retain her sense of self (Credit: Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0ck7mgs.jpg" alt="The Lost Daughter bracingly showed the struggle of its heroine Leda as a young mother trying to retain her sense of self (Credit: Alamy)" id=""/></picture><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__overlay article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--culture"></span></a></div><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/columns/film"><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--culture">Film</span></a><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed"><h2 class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header b-font-weight-300 article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">What no-one says about being a mother</h2></a><p class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author b-font-family-serif article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet b-reith-sans-font">By Laura Martin</p></div></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles rectangle-story-group__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="A very British vision of war?" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p082b33v.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cjz19y.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cjz19y.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" 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D'Silva</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="Hitchcock's most controversial thriller" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p082b33v.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cjs335.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cjs335.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cjs335.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cjs335.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cjs335.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cjs335.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cjs335.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cjs335.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cjs335.jpg" alt="(Credit: Alamy)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--culture"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--culture" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/columns/film"><span>Film</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" 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href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p082b33v.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0chtjnm.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0chtjnm.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0chtjnm.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0chtjnm.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chtjnm.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chtjnm.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0chtjnm.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0chtjnm.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Still from Resident Evil" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chtjnm.jpg" alt="Still from Resident Evil" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--culture"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--culture" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/tags/television"><span>Television</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july"><span>8 TV shows to watch this July</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--culture styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Amy Charles</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__full-width-image-article"><div data-bbc-container="full-width-image-article" data-bbc-title="The mysterious ancient culture for now" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"full-width-image-article","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="full-width-image-article"><div class="full-width-image-article__container full-width-image-article__container--desktop"><div class="full-width-image-article__image"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cb8th1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cb8th1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cb8th1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cb8th1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cb8th1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cb8th1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cb8th1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cb8th1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cb8th1.jpg" alt="(Credit: Alamy)" id=""/></picture><div class="full-width-image-article__background"></div></div><div class="full-width-image-article__text"><a class="full-width-image-article__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/the-collection"><span class="full-width-image-article-text__label b-reith-sans-font">The Collection</span></a><a class="full-width-image-article__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now"><h2 class="full-width-image-article-text__header b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 full-width-image-article-text__header--desktop">The mysterious ancient culture for now</h2></a><p class="full-width-image-article-text__author b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 full-width-image-article-text__author--desktop">By Beverley D'Silva</p></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__latest-articles"><div class="latest-articles__container latest-articles__rectangle latest-articles__container--desktop"><p class="latest-articles__editor b-reith-sans-font latest-articles__editor--desktop">Hot Topics</p><div class="latest-articles__articles latest-articles__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group rectangle-story-group--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__hero rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles-container"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The hidden images found in masterpieces" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-group__article-hero"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle b-reith-sans-font article-title-card-rectangle--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__container article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__image article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0chlj8l.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0chlj8l.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0chlj8l.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0chlj8l.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chlj8l.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chlj8l.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0chlj8l.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0chlj8l.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="The Lonesome Crouching Nude" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chlj8l.jpg" alt="The Lonesome Crouching Nude" id=""/></picture><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__overlay article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--culture"></span></a></div><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/columns/art"><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--culture">Art</span></a><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed"><h2 class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header b-font-weight-300 article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">The hidden images found in masterpieces</h2></a><p class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author b-font-family-serif article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet b-reith-sans-font">By Jo Lawson-Tancred</p></div></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles rectangle-story-group__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The US' first interracial love song" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p082b33v.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0chflbh.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0chflbh.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0chflbh.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0chflbh.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chflbh.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chflbh.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0chflbh.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0chflbh.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Judy Clay and Billy Vera" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chflbh.jpg" alt="Judy Clay and Billy Vera" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--culture"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--culture" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/columns/music"><span>Music</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song"><span>The US' first interracial love song</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--culture styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Diane Bernard</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="How teapots spread Russian propaganda" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p082b33v.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0chtzl3.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0chtzl3.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0chtzl3.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0chtzl3.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chtzl3.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chtzl3.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0chtzl3.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0chtzl3.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Deborah Nicholls-Lee/Hermitage Museum, Amsterdam)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chtzl3.jpg" alt="(Credit: Deborah Nicholls-Lee/Hermitage Museum, Amsterdam)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--culture"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--culture" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/columns/art"><span>Art</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda"><span>How teapots spread Russian propaganda</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--culture styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Deborah Nicholls-Lee</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="Who was the real Elvis Presley?" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p082b33v.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cgrpqw.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cgrpqw.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cgrpqw.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cgrpqw.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cgrpqw.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cgrpqw.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cgrpqw.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cgrpqw.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Elvis still" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cgrpqw.jpg" alt="Elvis still" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--culture"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--culture" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/columns/film"><span>Film</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley"><span>Who was the real Elvis Presley?</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--culture styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Kaleem Aftab</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></main></div></div> <script>window.__PWA_PRELOADED_STATE__ = 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Fernandez","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710011438\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F5g\u002F77\u002Fp05g77jy.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"The light, airy 1950s house of Katherina Voss and Enrique Arias has been lovingly restored. The mid-Century chairs surround a glass table on a wood base, crafted by Cuban carpenters, who also created the outdoor table. (Credit: Adrian Fernandez)","synopsisMedium":"Mid-Century moment","synopsisShort":"Mid-Century moment","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710011438\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp05g77jy.jpg","title":"HavanaLiving_p062_crop.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p05g77jy","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710011438\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp05g77jy.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679332},"p0bvj3sw":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bvj3sw","_id":"62b41ee91f4b7b1ce400a0b4","copyright":"Alamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710011438\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbv\u002Fj3\u002Fp0bvj3sw.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Alamy)","synopsisShort":"Plant","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710011438\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bvj3sw.jpg","title":"collection aalmy option b.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bvj3sw","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710011438\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bvj3sw.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679332}},"articles":{"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022","_id":"62b41fcb1f4b7b7152494bb1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Frebecca-laurence-and-lindsay-baker"],"bodyIntro":"Memoir, poetry and time travel stories are among the BBC Culture picks, write Rebecca Laurence and Lindsay Baker.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYoung Mungo by Douglas Stuart \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDouglas Stuart, the author of the Booker Prize-winning Shuggie Bain (2020), has won rapturous praise once again for his second novel, a heartbreaking queer love story between Protestant Mungo and Catholic James, who come together across the divided landscape of a Glasgow council estate in the post-Thatcher era. \"Young Mungo is a suspense story wrapped around a novel of acute psychological observation. It's hard to imagine a more disquieting and powerful work of fiction will be published anytime soon about the perils of being different,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.npr.org\u002F2022\u002F03\u002F29\u002F1089215299\u002Fbook-review-young-mungo-douglas-stuart\"\u003Esays Maureen Corrigan, book critic of NPR's Fresh Air\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"If the first novel announced Stuart as a novelist of great promise, this confirms him as a prodigious talent,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fapr\u002F03\u002Fyoung-mungo-by-douglas-stuart-review-another-weepy-from-a-writer-on-a-roll\"\u003Ewrites Alex Preston in The Observer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. (RL)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckhlzw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Candy House by Jennifer Egan\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Jennifer Egan's 2011 novel A Visit from the Goon Squad, Bix Bouton featured as a minor character. Now he is back as a tech visionary at the opening of The Candy House, as CEO of internet giant Mandala who is in search of his next \"utopian vision\". Bouton's invention, Own Your Unconscious, is the catalyst for the novel's exploration of the end of privacy in the digital age and how tech turns the world upside down. Meanwhile, the underlying temptation metaphor of Hansel and Gretel's \"candy house\" permeates the book. It is an \"exhilarating, deeply pleasurable\" novel, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.prospectmagazine.co.uk\u002Farts-and-books\u002Fthe-candy-house-jennifer-egan-review-prospect\"\u003Esays Prospect\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, while \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2022\u002F04\u002F06\u002Fbooks\u002Freview\u002Fjennifer-egan-the-candy-house.html\"\u003EThe New York Times calls it\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"a spectacular palace built out of rabbit holes\". (LB)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEither\u002FOr by Elif Batuman\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA sequel to her 2017 Pulitzer-Prize nominated debut, The Idiot, Batuman's semi-autobiographical second novel continues the adventures of Selin Karadag, a Russian literature student in her sophomore year at Harvard University in 1996. Using Kierkegaard's classic philosophical work as a starting point, Soren ponders the meaning of life through the Danish philosopher's theory of the choice between morality and hedonism, using her literature syllabus as her guide. \"Either\u002FOr is a sequel that amplifies the meaning of its predecessor while expanding its philosophical ambit,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtonpost.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002F05\u002F24\u002Feither-or-idiot-squel-elif-batuman\u002F\"\u003Ewrites Charles Arrowsmith in The Washington Post\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, while \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnewrepublic.com\u002Farticle\u002F166526\u002Felif-batumans-experiment-eventfulness-either-or\"\u003ESophie Haigney in The New Republic\u003C\u002Fa\u003E praises Batuman's \"brilliant, funny observations.\" (RL)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckhkvx"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EConstructing a Nervous System by Margo Jefferson\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn her follow-up to 2015's Negroland, Margo Jefferson blends criticism and memoir, recalling personal experiences and family members she has lost, as well as jazz luminaries, artists and writers she admires. The veteran critic draws on a rich life full of cultural experience, as well as new thinking about the part race has played in her life, and addresses the core theme of black female identity. \"Her approach is an almost poetic presentation of fragments of her experiences as they ricocheted off artists whose work and lives she has found meaningful,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtonpost.com\u002Foutlook\u002F2022\u002F04\u002F22\u002Fcritic-margo-jeffersons-memoir-life-is-refracted-through-art\u002F\"\u003Esays The Washington Post\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It's an extraordinary reading experience - the first book I recall wanting to reread immediately after reaching the end.\" Or, as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fmay\u002F01\u002Fconstructing-a-nervous-system-review-a-deeply-personal-account-of-black-female-identity\"\u003EThe Observer puts it\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \"It is impossible not to be stirred by her odes to fellow black American strivers of excellence.\" (LB)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIn Love: A Memoir of Love and Loss by Amy Bloom\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDescribed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fapr\u002F05\u002Fin-love-a-memoir-of-love-and-loss-by-amy-bloom-review-a-courageous-bittersweet-howl\"\u003Eby Hephzibah Anderson in The Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as \"a courageous howl of a memoir\" In Love… is the story of novelist and psychotherapist Bloom's journey to aid her husband to end his life, after a 2019 diagnosis of early-onset Alzheimer's. The narrative jumps back and forth, documenting the frustrations and administrative red tape Bloom encounters and the ethical considerations involved with assisted suicide, while drawing a vivid picture of her husband, the architect Brian Ameche, with wit, compassion and dark humour. The memoir acts as a powerful testament to the couple's \"stickily close\" and tender relationship, as Bloom, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fapr\u002F15\u002Fin-love-by-amy-bloom-review-a-moving-memoir-of-a-life-lived-together\"\u003Ewrites Salley Vickers, also in The Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \"has written about him [Brian] with all the brave-spirited, undaunted love to which the book bears stupendous witness.\" (RL)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ELove Marriage by Monica Ali\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe tragicomic novel Love Marriage tells the story of Yasmin, junior doctor and dutiful daughter, who, as her wedding day draws closer, begins to dismantle her own assumptions about the people around her. Both her and her fiance's family face an unravelling of secrets, lies and infidelities, and Yasmin must ask herself what a \"love marriage\" really means. Monica Ali's 2003 novel Brick Lane was shortlisted for the Booker Prize, and this is her most acclaimed book since then. It is a \"rich, sensitive and gloriously entertaining novel – her fifth, and possibly her best,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.the-tls.co.uk\u002Farticles\u002Flove-marriage-monica-ali-book-review-tash-aw\u002F\"\u003Esays the TLS\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and \"juggles so many questions and plot lines that we keep expecting one of them to break free and become detached… yet everything remains utterly coherent and convincing.\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spectator.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fat-last-a-literary-sexy-novel-love-marriage-by-monica-ali-reviewed\"\u003EThe Spectator praises the novel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E too: \"It dares to be deliberately funny,\" it says, and is \"absolutely terrific… genuinely touching.\" (LB)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckhk9w"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETiepolo Blue by James Cahill\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDon Lamb is a repressed 40-something Cambridge art historian working on a monograph about the the paintings of the eponymous 18th-Century Venetian master. It's 1994, the contemporary art world is rapidly changing, and after an embarrassing faux pas, Lamb is removed from Cambridge to manage a South London gallery, where he encounters Ben, a young artist who introduces him to the capital's hedonistic nightlife and a reckoning with his sexuality. Tiepolo Blue combines \"formal elegance with gripping storytelling,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ft.com\u002Fcontent\u002F45e4f770-2f1b-49d9-9d72-e74966902b29\"\u003Ewrites the FT\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"[Its] delicious unease and pervasive threat give this assured first novel great singularity and a kind of gothic edge,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fjun\u002F11\u002Ftiepolo-blue-by-james-cahill-review-a-bold-debut-of-psychosexual-awakening\"\u003Ewrites Michael Donkor in The Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. (RL)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFire Island: Love, Loss and Liberation in an American Paradise by Jack Parlett\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his meditative look back at the famous queer party island in New York, Jack Parlett adds his own autobiographical asides. The result is a place-based memoir about hedonism, reinvention and liberation that has been widely acclaimed. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2022\u002F06\u002F07\u002Fbooks\u002Freview\u002Ffire-island-jack-parlett.html\"\u003EThe New York Times says\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \"[Parlett's] concise, meticulously researched, century-spanning chronicle of queer life on Fire Island captures, with a plain-spoken yet lyric touch, the locale's power to stun and shame, to give pleasure and symbolise evanescence.\" Populated by the mid-century literati – WH Auden, James Baldwin, Patricia Highsmith all make appearances – the book explores the culture and hierarchies of Fire Island's communities. \"Utopias tend to be flawed in revealing ways,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.the-tls.co.uk\u002Farticles\u002Ffire-island-jack-parlett-book-review-tom-seymour-evans\u002F\"\u003Esays the TLS\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and this \"sets the tone for an island history that's deeply felt and keenly judged.\" (LB)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPure Colour by Sheila Heti\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA follow-up to her 2018 novel Motherhood, Sheila Heti's Pure Colour is billed as \"a book about the shape of life, from beginning to end,\" and combines the real with the abstract and surreal in its story of Mira. An aspiring art critic, she meets and falls in love with Annie, who opens up Mira's chest to a portal with her enormous power. Later, when her father dies, Mira transforms into a leaf for a long section. Pure Colour is \"simultaneously wise and silly, moving and inscrutable\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.npr.org\u002F2022\u002F02\u002F17\u002F1080574700\u002Fpure-colour-review-sheila-heti-lily-meyer\"\u003Ewrites Lily Meyer in NPR\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"The apocalypse written as trance, a sleepwalker's song about the end of all things… Pure Colour is an original, a book that says something new for our difficult times\", \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Ffeb\u002F16\u002Fpure-colour-by-sheila-heti-review-love-philosophy-and-foliage\"\u003Ewrites Anne Enright in The Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. (RL)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESea of Tranquillity by Emily St John Mandel\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe prescient 2014 novel Station Eleven – a dystopian story of a devastating pandemic – was a hit for Emily St John Mandel, winning the Arthur C Clarke award, and also spawning a TV series. Her new book, the time-travelling story Sea of Tranquillity, begins in 1912, with a listless young British immigrant starting a new life in Canada who, when wandering in the woods, experiences an incomprehensible paranormal event. The narrative moves forward to the present day, and then to two futuristic time zones, weaving together disparate threads. The novel has \"intellectual heft\", \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.scotsman.com\u002Farts-and-culture\u002Fbooks\u002Fbook-review-sea-of-tranquility-by-emily-st-john-mandel-3671931\"\u003Esays The Scotsman\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and \"St John Mandel is an intelligent, acute and sympathetic writer\". Sea of Tranquillity is, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fapr\u002F20\u002Fsea-of-tranquility-by-emily-st-john-mandel-review-time-travel-drama\"\u003Esays the Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"hugely ambitious in scope, yet also intimate and written with a graceful and beguiling fluency.\" (LB)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckhhz2"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMemphis by Tara M Stringfellow\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A rhapsodic hymn to black women,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2022\u002F04\u002F05\u002Fbooks\u002Freview\u002Fmemphis-tara-m-stringfellow.html\"\u003Ewrites Kia Corthron in the New York Times\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, of poet, storyteller and former lawyer Stringfellow's first novel, which spans 70 years and three generations: Hazel, daughters Miriam and August and granddaughter Joan. Memphis is, Stringfellow says, \"an ode to my city and the black women living here in it... full of mystery and magic and humour and grit.\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.irishtimes.com\u002Fculture\u002Fbooks\u002Fmemphis-honours-the-strength-creativity-and-resilience-of-black-women-1.4839061\"\u003EThe Irish Times praises Stringfellow\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \"Her women are vivid, formidable and funny, exposing the legacy of racial violence not just within the microcosm of family or the titular city, but nationally,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtonpost.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002F04\u002F13\u002Fmemphis-tara-stringfellow-book-review\u002F\"\u003Ewhile The Washington Post writes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \"With her richly impressionistic style, Stringfellow captures the changes transforming Memphis in the latter half of the 20th Century.” (RL)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETime is a Mother by Ocean Vuong\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his second poetry collection, written in the aftermath of his mother's death, Ocean Vuong contemplates personal loss, the meaning of family, and tenderness in the face of violence. The episodic poem Dear Rose addresses his dead mother about her journey as an immigrant from Vietnam to the US. \"Because Vuong plays with time by the millisecond – slowing down or speeding up old memories or conversations – he uncovers new enlightening details that have a life of their own,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fapr\u002F11\u002Ftime-is-a-mother-by-ocean-vuong-review-writing-that-demands-all-of-your-lungs\"\u003Esays The Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fartsfuse.org\u002F254373\u002Fpoetry-review-time-is-a-mother-grieving-through-language\u002F\"\u003EArtfuse describes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Time is a Mother as a \"dazzling investigation of love and loss, inspiring both nostalgia and release\", and says the poet's language, \"recognises the trauma of death, but also revels in the glory of life\". (LB)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cknx73"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EHow High We Go in the Dark by Sequoia Nagamatsu\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch of Nagamatsu's debut novel was completed before 2020, and its themes will strike readers with their prescience. Set in the near-future, a team of scientists in Siberia discover a mummified pre-historic female corpse they name \"Annie\", which holds a disease that sets off a catastrophic pandemic named \"the Arctic Plague\". Nagamatsu focuses on the human side of the crisis, leaping forward 6,000 years to reveal a society that has commercialised death, and the long-reaching legacy of past decisions. Expansive and genre-defying, it is told through discrete stories that slowly coalesce. \"Like a Polaroid photograph, How High We Go in the Dark takes time to show its true colours. When they finally appear, the effect is all the more dazzling,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fjan\u002F20\u002Fhow-high-we-go-in-the-dark-by-sequoia-nagamatsu-review-a-new-plague\"\u003Ewrites the Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It is, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2022\u002F01\u002F18\u002Fbooks\u002Freview\u002Fsequoia-nagamatsu-how-high-we-go-in-the-dark.html\"\u003Ewrites the New York Times\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"a book of sorrow for the destruction we're bringing on ourselves. Yet the novel reminds us there's still hope in human connections, despite our sadness.\" (RL)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBurning Questions by Margaret Atwood\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow in the seventh decade of her remarkable literary career, Margaret Atwood has written her third collection of essays that, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Finews.co.uk\u002Fculture\u002Fbooks\u002Fburning-questions-by-margaret-atwood-review-off-kilter-wit-and-an-eternally-fascinating-mind-1489366\"\u003Esays the i newspaper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"brims with enthusiasm and verve\". Broadly looking at events of the past two decades, the range of subjects is wide – from censorship and Obama, to #MeToo and zombies. And there are insights into her own craft and the function of fiction. As the i puts it: \"Atwood always makes the idea of big questions a little more digestible. You find yourself asking: what can fiction do? What can we do, generally?\" The essays are full of a \"droll, deadpan humour and an instinct for self-deprecation\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fmar\u002F03\u002Fburning-questions-by-margaret-atwood-review-wisdom-and-wonder\"\u003Esays the Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Atwood remains frank, honest and good company.\" (LB)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBless the Daughter Raised by a Voice in Her Head by Warsan Shire\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is Warsan Shire's long-awaited, first full-length poetry collection, after two pamphlets, Teaching My Mother How to Give Birth (2011) and Her Blue Body (2015). It arrives nearly six years after the Somali-British poet shot to world-wide fame collaborating with Beyoncé on the latter's ground-breaking visual albums, Lemonade (2016) and Black is King (2020). The poems in Bless the Daughter… draw from Shire's own experiences, bringing to vivid life black women's lives, motherhood and migration. \"Shire's strikingly beautiful imagery leverages the specificity of her own womanhood, love life, tussles with mental health, grief, family history, and stories from the Somali diaspora, to make them reverberate universally,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.telegraph.co.uk\u002Fbooks\u002Fwhat-to-read\u002Fbless-daughter-raised-voice-head-warsan-shire-review-not-just\u002F\"\u003Ewrites Dfiza Benson in The Telegraph\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. (RL)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c01hs5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIn the Margins: On the Pleasures of Reading and Writing by Elena Ferrante\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Margins is a collection of four essays in which \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20200828-the-remarkable-cult-of-elena-ferrante\"\u003Ethe best-selling, pseudonymous author\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the Neapolitan Quartet articulates how and why she writes – and her inspiration, struggles and evolution as both a writer and reader. Ranging from philosophical to practical, the essays give the reader an insight into the enigmatic author's mind, and include an exploration of what a writer is – less an embodied entity, she says, than a stream of \"pure sensibility that feeds on the alphabet\". As the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2022\u002F03\u002F15\u002Fbooks\u002Freview-in-margins-elena-ferrante.html\"\u003ENew York Times\u003C\u002Fa\u003E puts it: \"For those who wish to burrow gopher-like into the author's mind, Ferrante has prepared a tunnel.\" (LB)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMoon Witch, Spider King by Marlon James\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Booker Prize-winning novelist returns with part two of his Dark Star fantasy trilogy, after 2019's Black Leopard, Red Wolf, which the author initially described as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftime.com\u002F5521259\u002Fmarlon-james-black-leopard-red-wolf-book\u002F\"\u003E\"African Game of Thrones\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (he later insisted this was a joke). A female-centric counternarrative to the first novel, Moon Witch, Spider King follows Sogolon, the 177-year-old antihero, and Moon Witch of the title, on an epic and characteristically violent journey. \"Like an ancient African Lisbeth Salander,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ft.com\u002Fcontent\u002Ffee0dab1-5c2d-4181-9351-aa797f7a45bf\"\u003Ewrites the FT\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"she dedicates her lonesomeness to meting out lethal rough justice to men who harm women.\" Praising the novel in The New York Times, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2022\u002F02\u002F14\u002Fbooks\u002Freview\u002Fmarlon-james-moon-witch-spider-king.html\"\u003EEowyn Ivey writes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"the Moon Witch lit my path and showed me how a woman might navigate this dangerous, remarkable world\". (RL)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EOlga Dies Dreaming by Xochitl Gonzalez\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIdentity, elites, race and capitalism are the areas explored in this multi-layered novel, the first by Xochitl Gonzalez. This \"impressive debut\", says \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fjan\u002F09\u002Folga-dies-dreaming-by-xochitl-gonzalez-review-nuanced-novel-of-family-race-and-politics\"\u003Ethe Observer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is \"deeply satisfying and nuanced… a tender exploration of love in its many forms\". Set in New York City in the months around a devastating hurricane in Puerto Rico, Olga Dies Dreaming follows the story of wedding planner Olga and her congressman brother Prieto. Family strife, political corruption and the notion of the American dream all feature in this \"irresistibly warm yet entirely uncompromising\" novel, says \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theskinny.co.uk\u002Fbooks\u002Fbook-reviews\u002Folga-dies-dreaming-by-xochitl-gonzalez\"\u003EThe Skinny\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. (LB)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c07622"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGlory by NoViolet Bulawayo\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENoViolet Bulawayo became the first black African woman – and first Zimbabwean – to be shortlisted for the Booker Prize, for her 2013 debut, We Need New Names. Nine years later, Glory is an Orwell-inspired fable set in the animal kingdom of Jidada, which satirises the 2017 coup that toppled Zimbabwean President Robert Mugabe (Bulawayo has explained that Glory began its life as a non-fiction account of this history). As a fierce but comedic allegory, Glory can be seen as a companion piece to Wole Soyinka's 2021 satire of Nigerian society, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-wole-soyinka-the-books-that-really-change-the-world\"\u003EChronicles from the Land of the Happiest People on Earth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"By aiming the long, piercing gaze of this metaphor at the aftereffects of European imperialism in Africa, Bulawayo is really out-Orwelling Orwell,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2022\u002F03\u002F06\u002Fbooks\u002Freview\u002Fnoviolet-bulawayo-glory.html\"\u003Ewrites the New York Times\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Glory,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fmar\u002F23\u002Fglory-by-noviolet-bulawayo-review-a-zimbabwean-animal-farm\"\u003Ewrites the Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"with a flicker of hope at its end, is allegory, satire and fairytale rolled into one mighty punch\". (RL)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFrench Braid by Anne Tyler\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnne Tyler's 24th novel is \"an extraordinarily rich portrait of a family in flux,\" according to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.standard.co.uk\u002Fculture\u002Fbooks\u002Ffrench-braid-by-anne-tyler-book-review-b989563.html\"\u003EEvening Standard\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Tyler's set pieces seem undramatic, but her rhythms are masterly.\" The novel tells the story of the Garrett family across six decades, and like most of Tyler's works, is an ensemble piece that spans the generations, set in Baltimore. The story starts with a lakeside family holiday, where rifts emerge that are largely unvoiced, and that unravel in the lives of each family member as the years progress. It is \"thoroughly enjoyable,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fmar\u002F07\u002Ffrench-braid-by-anne-tyler-review-rifts-and-reunions-in-robins-nest\"\u003Esays the Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"and at this point any Tyler book is a gift\". French Braid is \"funny, poignant, generous… it suggests there's always new light to be shed, whatever the situation, with just another turn of the prism.\" (LB)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETo Paradise by Hanya Yanagihara\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYanagihara's highly-anticipated third novel follows her bestselling, Booker Prize-shortlisted 2015 breakthrough, A Little Life. To Paradise, which was released in January to both rapturous acclaim and cries of dissent, is, like its predecessor, lengthy (at 720 pages) and dwells on deep suffering rather than joy, which has drawn criticism in some parts. Multi-form, and spanning three centuries, it is a compelling and wildly ambitious work, offering no less than an alternate retelling of the US, through 1890s New York, Hawaii and a dystopian, late-21st Century. \"Resolution is not available here, but some of the most poignant feelings that literature can elicit certainly are,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vogue.com\u002Farticle\u002Fbest-books-2022\"\u003Ewrites Vogue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, while \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bostonglobe.com\u002F2022\u002F01\u002F06\u002Farts\u002Fhanya-yanagiharas-new-novel-ponders-freedom-loneliness\u002F\"\u003Ethe Boston Globe calls it\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"a rich, emotional, and thought-provoking read.\" (RL)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c01hhj"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe School for Good Mothers by Jessamine Chan \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrida Liu is a working single mother in a near future who makes the mistake of leaving her child alone at home for a couple of hours one afternoon. Authorities are summoned by the neighbours, and her daughter Harriet is taken from her. Frida is given the choice to either lose her child permanently, or to spend a year at a state-run re-education camp for mothers where inmates must care for eerily lifelike robot children, equipped with surveillance cameras. Calling this novel \"dystopian\" doesn't feel quite right, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wired.com\u002Fstory\u002Fschool-for-good-mothers-dystopian-reality\u002F\"\u003Esays Wired\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Near-dystopian, maybe? Ever-so-slightly speculative? This closeness to reality is what turns the book's emotional gut punch into a full knockout wallop.\" The School for Good Mothers is, says the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2022\u002F01\u002F11\u002Fbooks\u002Freview-school-for-good-mothers-jessamine-chan.html\"\u003ENew York Times\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"a chilling debut\". (LB)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Exhibitionist by Charlotte Mendelson\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Hanrahan family gather for a weekend as the patriarch Ray – artist and notorious egoist – prepares for a new exhibition of his art. Ray's three grown-up children and steadfast wife, Lucia, all have their own choices to make. This fifth novel by Mendelson has been longlisted for the Women's Prize, and has been highly praised. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fmar\u002F13\u002Fthe-exhibitionist-by-charlotte-mendelson-review-scenes-from-a-marriage\"\u003EThe Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E points to the author's \"succinct specificity of detail,\" and \"a precision of observation that made me laugh frequently and smile when I wasn't laughing\". According to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spectator.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fportrait-of-a-domestic-tyrant-the-exhibitionist-by-charlotte-mendelson-reviewed\"\u003ESpectator\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Mendelson excels at \"vivid, drily hilarious tales about messy families\". The Exhibitionist is \"a glorious ride. Mendelson observes the minutiae of human behaviour like a comic anthropologist.\" (LB) \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFree Love by Tessa Hadley\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2015\u002Faug\u002F28\u002Fthe-past-by-tessa-hadley-review\"\u003EDescribed by The Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2015 as \"one of this country's great contemporary novelists,\" British writer and academic Hadley has been quietly producing works of subtly powerful prose for two decades. Like her recent novels, The Past (2015) and Late in the Day (2019), Free Love – Hadley's eighth – explores intimate relationships, sexuality, memory and grief, through an apparently ordinary-looking suburban family. But, Hadley writes, \"under the placid surface of suburbia, something was unhinged.\" Set amid the culture clash of the late 1960s, the novel interrogates the counterculture's idealistic vision of sexual freedom, in, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Finews.co.uk\u002Fculture\u002Fbooks\u002Ffree-love-by-tessa-hadley-review-a-powerful-tale-of-personal-awakening-1413005\"\u003Ewrites the i newspaper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"a complex tale of personal awakening and a snapshot of a moment in time when the survivors of war were suddenly painted as relics by a new generation determined not to live under their dour and hesitant shadow.\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.npr.org\u002F2022\u002F02\u002F05\u002F1078241189\u002Ftessa-hadley-review-free-love-heller-mcalpin?t=1649331516367\"\u003ENPR writes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"Free Love is a fresh, moving evocation of the dawning of the Age of Aquarius.\" (RL)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBlack Cake by Charmaine Wilkerson\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA debut novel, Black Cake tells the backstory of an African-American family of Caribbean origin, and two siblings who are reunited after eight years of estrangement at their mother's funeral where they discover their unusual inheritance. The plot is driven by an omniscient narrator, dialogue and flashbacks. It is, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2022\u002F02\u002F01\u002Fbooks\u002Fgroup-text-black-cake-charmaine-wilkerson.html\"\u003Esays the New York Times\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, full of \"family secrets, big lies, great loves, bright colours and strong smells\". The themes of race , identity and family love are all incorporated, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.independent.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fbyron-caribbean-b2004219.html\"\u003Esays the Independent\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"but the fun is in the reading… Black Cake is a satisfying literary meal, heralding the arrival of a new novelist to watch.\" (LB)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAuē\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E by Becky Manawatu\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETold through several viewpoints, \u003Cem\u003EAuē\u003C\u002Fem\u003E tells the story of Māori siblings who have lost their parents, with each sibling telling their tale, and later their mother, Aroha, also telling hers from the afterlife. The novel has already won two awards in New Zealand, and is now gaining wider praise. \"The plot reveals are masterful,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2022\u002Fmar\u002F11\u002Faue-by-becky-manawatu-review-an-enthralling-new-zealand-bestseller\"\u003Esays The Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Auē has done well because it is expertly crafted, but also because it has something indefinable: enthralling, puzzling, gripping and familiar, yet otherworldly.\" (LB)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022-16"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":true,"displayDate":"2022-07-08T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The 26 best books of the year so far 2022","headlineShort":"The 26 best books of the year so far","image":["p0ckhm82"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Author","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Author","promoImage":["p0ckhm82"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":["tag\u002Fbooks"],"summaryLong":"Memoir, poetry and time travel stories are among the BBC Culture picks, write Rebecca Laurence and Lindsay Baker.","summaryShort":"Memoir, poetry and time travel stories are among the BBC Culture picks","tag":["tag\u002Fbooks"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-07T23:00:19.48953Z","entity":"article","guid":"11bacc55-642a-4f1c-a516-7d1398e22b0b","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-08T11:29:07.993785Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220407-the-best-books-of-the-year-2022","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679328},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed","_id":"62c6141e1f4b7b1c037bc50c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Flaura-martin"],"bodyIntro":"A wave of TV shows, films and books is now really getting to grips with the difficult, and sometimes shocking, realities of becoming a mother. Is it about time, asks Laura Martin.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"He'll bulldoze your life, destroy your relationships, and when he's got you completely to himself: he'll destroy you. It's what he does,\" says a wizened older lady to another woman, who, in a strange series of events, has had a baby literally drop into her arms. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july\"\u003E8 TV shows to watch this July\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20210622-false-positive-and-the-dramas-that-expose-our-primal-fears\"\u003EThe dramas exploring infertility\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-inside-kate-bushs-alternate-universe\"\u003EInside Kate Bush's alternate universe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis statement in the third episode of the brilliantly dark TV comedy-horror The Baby (available on HBO Max in the US now; premiering in the UK today) will likely ring true with anyone tending to a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20220131-the-science-of-safe-and-healthy-baby-sleep\"\u003Escreaming newborn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the sixth, seventh or eighth time in the middle of the night, and feeling like a reheated corpse the morning after – even if the predicament of its maternal protagonist may be somewhat extraordinary. In the show, despite his cherubic face and cute little yellow booties, the baby in question is destructive on an extreme scale: a murderous demon who brutally slays anyone who crosses him, giggling delightedly after each kill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ck7nnt"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMichelle De Swarte stars as Natasha, the straight-talking chef who gets pulled into the wild story when she catches a baby falling off a cliff. And while this surreal, often hilarious and gory British tale hooks you in with a plot full of twists and turns, the allegory it's presenting is crystal clear from the start: motherhood, at times, can be a total horror show.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Baby is part of a current wave of film, TV and literature interested in laying bare the difficult, sometimes shocking realities of being a mother, from those initial discussions around having children, through to pregnancy, labour, birth and then the all-encompassing, life-long experience of raising a child. What we're seeing now is the fuller, wider spectrum of motherhood represented in fiction. And if that takes readers and viewers to a dark place sometimes, it's a sign that society is finally opening up to truthful discussions around the traditionally emotive subject.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We were excited about the possibility of exploding cultural ideals around motherhood,\" says co-creator Siân Robins-Grace about the starting point for the series, \"and revealing the darker, violent or oppressive forces at play in that kind of ideal account of what motherhood should be. The genre of horror obviously allows you to take that to a really extreme place, and set up some really taboo situations to explore why they might be taboo.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I think a lot of ways that motherhood is depicted is thin and uncritical – Siân Robins-Grace","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHappily, breaking these taboos is something that's become especially prevalent of late. While classic films like Rosemary's Baby, The Omen and Mommie Dearest looked at the experience of motherhood as a horrifying one, the stereotype of a mother on screen has traditionally been a beatific, selfless stay-at-home wife, happily wedded to the idea that her life revolves around her children. As Robins-Grace says: \"I think a lot of ways that motherhood is depicted is thin and uncritical, and reinforces the idea that 'the mother' is cis, female, straight, middle-class, white, caring and nurturing.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer co-creator Lucy Gaymer adds that for her, the series – and genre – was a way to process her own internal battles about motherhood: \"The genesis of this idea comes from me being in my 30s and feeling really confused about whether I wanted to become a parent or not, and I didn't realise that until after we'd plotted episode one, when I was like, 'Oh, of course I had that idea as it represents what it would feel like for me to become a parent right now'. It definitely comes from that place of anxiety, and also of jealousy of people who seem to feel so clearly one way or another. That feeling of not being sure feels scary and sometimes isolating.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETapping into terror\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat anxiety and isolation that women might experience while contemplating one of the biggest life decisions there is (while having an undetermined biological deadline hanging over them: a subject explored with bracing honesty by the journalist Nell Frizzell in her recent book, The Panic Years) is arguably only then exacerbated by both the reality of pregnancy and raising a young child. These emotions are again explored in heightened, terrifying terms in the 2016 film Prevenge, another horror story in which a pregnant woman's foetus orders her to carry out a series of murders to avenge her partner's death. As the baby's chipmunk-esque voice threatens her (\"What did I say will happen if you don't do as I say? Blood will be shed, one way or another\") it's extreme and ridiculous of course, but, deep down, speaks to fears that many carry about the power that the living being inside them holds over them. As Ruth (Alice Lowe) says about missing an ultrasound scan: \"I don't want to know what's in there. I'm scared of her. I'm not even in control. It's like I'm some crap, banged out car and she's driving, I'm just the vehicle,\" she tries to explain to the patronising midwife, who replies with another platitude.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ck7mgs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile I've never procreated a homicidal infant, I have had two babies delivered prematurely by emergency C-section who both required a five-week-long stay in a NICU (neonatal intensive care unit) – and so slasher horror plot aside, the abject terror around labour and birth that the film depicts is something I can relate to. Even before my double traumatic labours, while pregnant with my first child, I remember feeling like the experience was akin to knowing you're going to be in a car crash, but you don't know when, or how bad it's going to be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnderstandably, it's hard to relax and \"enjoy the pregnancy\" as you're so often reminded by healthcare professionals, midwives and anyone else who happens to be walking past in the street. Portrayals in popular culture push the idea that babies are something that happen to you, rather than because of you. In Prevenge – aside from all the slash-and-kill sprees – it's implied that Ruth is already a bad mother as she's breaking the unspoken code of complying and not complaining, as her baby hasn't even been born yet. In an interview with\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.indiewire.com\u002F2017\u002F03\u002Falice-lowe-prevenge-horror-interview-1201795842\u002F\"\u003E Indiewire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Lowe – who was eight months' pregnant when she wrote, acted in and directed the film – said: \"I kind of took all my frustrations of what I was feeling… Suddenly, you're a mother and people think different about you and you don't have control over your job anymore. All of this stuff, I was feeling fairly grim and dark about, and I just put it in this film.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When my son was born, instead of speaking, I wrote. I found I could be truthful on the page in a way that I could not in conversation – Marianne Levy","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother mother breaking the code is Leda, the protagonist of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-film-review-the-lost-daughter\"\u003EThe Lost Daughter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Maggie Gyllenhaal's 2021 Netflix adaptation of Elena Ferrante's 2006 novel. While not a horror story, Leda (Olivia Colman) is regarded as something of a monster by the family she meets on the beach while holidaying in Greece – including the pregnant woman who she tells bluntly: \"Children are a crushing responsibility\". The character then flips the script on how mothers are expected to act with her unsettlingly unpredictable behaviour: she helps find a lost young girl on the beach to the relief of her family, only to steal her doll, watching the girl's devastation unfold, to play with at home. Over the course of the film, we discover she's behaved in this kind of impulsive way before, committing the most unthinkable, most transgressive of acts – in the eyes of much of society, anyway – and walking out of her family home, leaving her two young daughters behind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThrough flashbacks we see young Leda (Jessie Buckley) struggle as a young mum with her career, relationships, sexuality and personal sense of being, as well as some clearly unprocessed trauma from her own mother. The story asks the audience to confront an uncomfortable question: who was my mother before I was born? What were her desires, wills and opinions before she was in this role; and what has happened to those now?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESeeing the funny side\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen it comes to the frustrations of motherhood, the sitcoms Motherland and Workin' Moms explore this territory in a lighter fashion, foregrounding in a both realistic and hilarious way the manic juggle that parents – mainly mums, if we're being honest – are expected to undertake. Mistakes will inevitably be made, and then there's the guilt and shame to contend with when this happens. A nice touch in Motherland is the absence of children in the main: rather they're seen rushing past the screen, the tops of their heads just visible as they enter school. It's the perspective of a mother's gaze, not just on her offspring, but the entire circus of life that surrounds her. Like Leda, we also see Motherland's lead character Julia (Anna Maxwell Martin) furiously grappling with her identity as a mum in a way that feels painfully authentic; juggling parenthood with wanting to be seen as a PR dynamo in her career, and as a woman of desire when she has a crush on a visiting builder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ck7m5m"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother comedy-drama that has nailed the complications and conflicting emotions of the maternal experience is Australia's The Letdown. So much popular culture tells the story of pregnancy and birth – typically shown in a nice, neat, two-minute montage of a woman crying and screaming – and then wraps things up there. Which is why The Letdown was refreshingly unusual in starting its story when its lead character was two-months post-birth. Having been through a distressing labour, we see Audrey (Alison Bell) seriously minimising her experience and telling her mum-and-baby group: \"It was fine, thanks, in the end, C-section,\" while also emphasising she was \"not too posh to push. I didn't elect it.\" She's already guiltily justifying an experience that was out of her hands, in the hope that people don't judge her for it. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the show goes on through its two series, we're shown in both banal and excruciating detail how difficult it can be just to get through the day with a newborn, and the emotional weight of the first year that hangs heavy each day. Finally, fighting back tears, Audrey admits why she's struggling: \"It wasn't a great start. I kept arguing for a natural birth because I'd read all this stuff and… we nearly lost her.\" One of the other characters later suggests Audrey has PTSD – official figures estimate anywhere between\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nct.org.uk\u002Flabour-birth\u002Fyou-after-birth\u002Ftraumatic-birth-and-post-traumatic-stress-disorder\"\u003E three\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.postpartum.net\u002Flearn-more\u002Fpostpartum-post-traumatic-stress-disorder\u002F\"\u003E nine percent\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of women who give birth do, although it's likely that many more women are never diagnosed. For me, that PTSD hit home on my son's first birthday – while everyone was celebrating his arrival, I was experiencing upsetting flashbacks of the anniversary of one of the scariest days of my life. Everything ended up fine, I was reminded by my partner and well-meaning friends, and that's all that mattered, wasn't it?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"For me, the negative depiction of motherhood is that of the perfect mother, a woman brimming with endless tender love who never entertains a moment's negativity","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe experience of mothers struggling to convince themselves they're \"fine\" after what can be an ordeal at the best of times – and a near-death experience at the worst of times – is perceptively examined in Marianne Levy's new book, Don't Forget To Scream. In one anecdote, she explains: \"I got chatting to a mum at the school gate and I asked her about her experience of birth. 'Oh, it was awful,' she said. 'It's why I only have one. But, you know, it's fine.' 'Is it?' I said. She thought for a moment. 'No'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDon't Forget To Scream is a collection of essays making sense of the psychological shifts and heavy emotional turmoil of becoming a mother, which also reflect on why people are so unwilling to talk about these. \"After my daughter was born eight years ago, when I tried to tell people what was happening to me, they told me I was wrong, or mistaken,\" Levy tells BBC Culture, explaining what led her to write the book. \"It was as though, on becoming a mother, my language had lost its meaning. A few times, they literally walked away. So when my son was born four years later, instead of speaking, I wrote. I found I could be truthful on the page in a way that I could not in conversation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETaboo-busting writers\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELevy, with her honest and necessary writing, joins a series of other women who have also recently written visceral books about birth and bringing up children. Mother Ship by Francesa Segal, I Am Not Your Baby Mother by Candice Brathwaite, My Wild and Sleepless Nights by Clover Stroud, and What Have I Done? by Laura Dockrill are just a few books whose candour about early motherhood is indebted to the writer that arguably first paved the way for this line of memoir, Rachel Cusk's A Life’s Work: On Becoming A Mother (2001). Cusk – an acclaimed novelist – left London with her partner and small child, found herself pregnant once again, and wrote what one reviewer described as\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E\"akin to a war diary\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\". In an article for\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2008\u002Fmar\u002F21\u002Fbiography.women\"\u003E The Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2008, Cusk described the fall out from publishing: \"I was accused of child-hating, of postnatal depression, of shameless greed, of irresponsibility, of pretentiousness, of selfishness, of doom-mongering and, most often, of being too intellectual.\" But equally, she noted how she was also lauded for her frankness, quoting one appreciative critic who had written how \"Motherhood, as it is lived, is still individual, personal, private, and therefore deeply undervalued, sometimes even by those of us who move between the 'real' world of work and the shadow world of family life. Between these worlds, Cusk has crafted a work of beauty and wisdom.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ck7lhv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOther writers have notably been turning to fiction recently to portray motherhood in its most animalistic form – from the woman who metamorphosises into a dog in Rachel Yoder's Nightbitch (now being made into a film with Amy Adams) to the half-bird-half-human inspiration for Megan Hunter's tale of family life and adultery, The Harpy. Or they have gone dystopian, as with The School for Good Mothers by Jessamine Chan which examines the \"bad mother\" stereotype via the tale of a mother losing custody of her daughter and being sent to an institution in order to dwell on her failings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thetimes.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fmotherhood-doesnt-have-to-mean-misery-cbqf3trjt\"\u003E question that has been raised\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is: are all these depictions going too far toward the negative side of motherhood, to the exclusion of the positive? After all, there is, of course, a whole range of joyful experiences that mothers may have as well. However, Levy counters the idea that culture is becoming too negative about motherhood by questioning  what is truly a \"negative\" depiction in the first place: \"For me, the negative depiction is that of the perfect mother; the traditional image of a woman brimming with endless tender love who never entertains a moment's negativity (or, indeed, personality)... We seem to have removed the space for women to speak freely and openly about their experiences having and raising babies and children. The result is tremendously harmful. The consequences, for maternal mental health, the mental health of our children, and wider societal health, economics and equality, are appalling.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Levy mentions in her book, in 2018 Dr Catriona Jones, a lecturer in midwifery,\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thetimes.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fmumsnet-is-driving-fear-of-childbirth-expert-warns-fztj8qlth\"\u003E warned of \"fearmongering\" among women frightening each other about childbirth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on online forums such as Mumsnet: \"All you have to do is Google 'my experience of childbirth', and you are met with a tsunami of… women telling stories about childbirth — 'it's terrible, it's a bloodbath',\" she said, in a speech at the British Science Festival. \"I think that can be difficult to deal with\". But arguably Jones's warning reinforces the dated notion that women are too delicate to be told the truth about some people's maternal experiences. Instead, they are asked to become complicit in a silence around mothers' pain and anguish – from that very first post-birth cliché text message \"Mother and baby are doing well\", which Levy calls \"a lie\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe recent BBC\u002FAMC adaptation of Adam Kay's bestselling medical memoir, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220209-what-tv-medical-shows-get-right-and-wrong\"\u003EThis Is Going To Hurt\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which follows Kay's real-life experiences as a junior doctor on an Obstetrics and Gynaecology ward in a British hospital, also came under fire for its traumatic scenes of women giving birth, as well what \"positive birth\" expert Milli Hill called the\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E\"paternalistic, misogynistic attitude\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\" of Kay towards his female patients. But others argued the depiction of the maternal experience was creditable for being uncomfortably real.\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thetimes.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fthis-is-going-to-hurt-misogyny-on-the-maternity-ward-wqllbj2t9\"\u003E Times journalist Alice Jones\u003C\u002Fa\u003E wrote that she \"didn't feel angry watching This Is Going to Hurt, I felt glad that someone was telling the truth. Birth can be beautiful, but it's also brutal. What are we going to do about that?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECulture exploring the darker side of motherhood may also now have an extra resonance at a time when, in the US, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-us-canada-61804777\"\u003Esome states are intending to remove the constitutional right to an abortion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, after the Supreme Court overturned the case of Roe vs Wade. In one harrowing episode of The Baby, we see how the titular child's biological mother – Helen (Tanya Reynolds) – is held hostage and forced to give birth, in scenes reminiscent of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20180425-why-the-handmaids-tale-is-so-relevant-today\"\u003EThe Handmaid's Tale\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; Robins-Grace explains how differently that scene hits home for her now. \"It's sobering to realise that we were naive to believe, in a legislative way, that [abortion] was off the table.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore generally, the fact that current films, TV series and books might shock us and shatter our collective illusions about motherhood is only a good thing, says Levy. \"Popular culture finally seems to be waking up to the idea that mothers can be interesting, dynamic characters in their own right, front and centre to the story, with all the foibles and flaws and fascinating facets exhibited by the rest of humanity.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThe Baby is available on HBO Max in the US now, and airs on Sky Atlantic and NOW TV in the UK from today; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hachette.co.uk\u002Ftitles\u002Fmarianne-levy\u002Fdont-forget-to-scream\u002F9781474623650\u002F\"\u003EDon't Forget To Scream\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Marianne Levy is out on 21 July on Phoenix.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELove film and TV? Join \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002F440074069852291\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBBC Culture Film and TV Club\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E on Facebook, a community for cinephiles all over the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed-14"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffilm"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-07T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The painful truths about motherhood exposed","headlineShort":"What no-one says about being a mother","image":["p0ck7mmc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0ck7mgs"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A wave of TV shows, films and books is now really getting to grips with the difficult, and sometimes shocking, realities of becoming a mother. Is it about time, asks Laura Martin.","summaryShort":"The films, TV shows and books exposing the painful realities of having a child","tag":["tag\u002Ffamily-tree","tag\u002Fbooks","tag\u002Ftelevision"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-06T23:00:28.736329Z","entity":"article","guid":"b5f044b5-9800-40dd-9358-8bacbb188371","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-07T22:45:24.46531Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-the-painful-truths-about-motherhood-exposed","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679329},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell","_id":"62c4c2bf1f4b7b40c23d9922","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fbeverley-dsilva"],"bodyIntro":"The underrated masterpieces of Eric Ravilious offer a unique view of war – and peace – forcing us to \"look at war with a calm mind\". Beverley D'Silva explores his work, life and tragic death.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EHe was one of the greatest watercolourists of the 20th Century, loved for his paintings of famous English landmarks like the Westbury Horse, Beachy Head and the Long Man of Wilmington. He was a chronicler of mid-century British life, whose subject matter is now seen as the epitome of traditional Englishness: tea on the lawn, cricket on the green, and keeping the home fires burning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20161111-haunting-paintings-from-the-battlefields-of-war\"\u003EHaunting paintings from the battlefields of war\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220623-full-metal-jacket-and-kubrick-the-ultimate-anti-war-films\"\u003EThe ultimate anti-war films\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20170206-the-artists-who-fought-fascism\"\u003EThe story of a painting that fought Fascism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhile Eric Ravilious was a master painter, designer and engraver, his other great role was as a war artist. Among the finest and most prolific of his generation, he died while on active duty during World War Two. This year marks the 80th anniversary of his death which, with the release of a new film on Ravilious, his life and his war art, raises the question: what makes a great war artist?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjz0vw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Whitehorse painting by Ravilious","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EJoining the debate is Ai Weiwei, the Chinese artist and documentary filmmaker, himself a war artist, having made work responding to conflict. \"In my opinion, Eric Ravilious is great because he uses accessible language and a calm manner to express our understanding of the cruelty of life in reality, in such a way that everyone can relate to,\" he tells BBC Culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ERavilious's war art is outstanding for its \"innocence and purity\", observes Mr Ai. Certainly Ravilious's character – his lightheartedness and sense of joy – infuse the watercolour HMS Glorious in the Arctic, 1940, in which a ship sails forth, more pleasure cruiser than vessel of destruction, while planes glide gaily overhead in an exquisite composition of deceptive simplicity. Or his painting Dangerous Work at Low Tide, 1940, depicting naval officers at the oyster beds in Whitstable, Kent, on a mission to defuse a German mine. Ravilious's soft pastel colours, cartoon-like figures, tranquil tide pools and sky, can't help but also defuse the apparent danger or threat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"He often worked in very dangerous situations… painting on the deck of a military ship with Spitfires flying overhead, or moving at such speed his paints might be flying everywhere","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EContrast these soft-focus, dreamy visions with work by his war artist contemporaries, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tate.org.uk\u002Fart\u002Fartworks\u002Fmoore-shelterers-in-the-tube-n05712\"\u003EHenry Moore's Shelterers in the Tube\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, 1941, in which piles of dark bodies lie slumped on a sooty floor, or sitting bolt upright in a rictus of anxiety. Or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tate.org.uk\u002Fart\u002Fartworks\u002Fardizzone-scout-cars-of-a-regiment-of-hussars-liberating-a-stalag-n05674\"\u003EEdward Ardizzone's Scout Cars of a Regiment of Hussars Liberating a Stalag\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, 1945; a pathetic scene of starved, tortured figures clinging to wire, unable to leave. One wonders what Ravilious would have made of these assignments, given that he approached all subjects with a kind of irrepressible joy and optimism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ck5cxx"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ETo make sense of Ravilious's style, one has to look to his background and character. Ravilious was known as an affable personality who loved dancing and pub games, and was always whistling. He had an \"extraordinary Pan-like charm\", according to his artist friend, John Lake. Artist Edward Bawden, a lifelong friend he met at the Royal College of Art (RCA), where they both trained in the 1930s, called him \"the Boy\" because of his youthful vigour. The artist \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2011\u002Fapr\u002F30\u002Feric-ravilious-painting-landscape-watercolour\"\u003EDouglas Percy Bliss, another RCA friend, said\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \"I never saw him depressed… Even when he fell in love – and that was frequently – he was never submerged by disappointment. Cheerfulness kept creeping in.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ERavilious had met his future wife, Tirzah Garwood, when they were both at Eastbourne College. Tirzah, or Tush, was a brilliant artist and engraver in her own right. She was 18, he was 22. Aware of his reputation as a flirt, she was anxious when he asked her to go for a walk, as to how \"not-quite-a-gentleman might behave under such intimate circumstances\". He made a drawing of her, which seems to have won her confidence: they were married within a year. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EHe went into the design department at the RCA, which shaped him as an outstanding decorative designer and wood-engraver. His RCA teacher, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20161111-haunting-paintings-from-the-battlefields-of-war\"\u003EPaul Nash\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, had been a war artist in World War One, and would be one of his greatest influences. Struggling to make ends meet, it was his commercial work, such as his Wedgwood commemorative china for Edward VIII, George VI and Queen Elizabeth II, that paid the bills. He also designed jackets for books, magazines and a long run of covers for Wisden, the \"bible of cricket\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAs the threat of war loomed, Ravilious showed his anxiety about the impending conflict in a letter he wrote in September 1937, submitting work to the Artists Against Fascism and War exhibition: \"Dear Sir, please accept my painting… Like many artists I am drawn to war as a subject, but deeply troubled by it…\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ck5db7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tea at Furlongs by Ravilious","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhen war did break out in Europe, Kenneth Clark, then director of the National Gallery in London, appointed artists to respond to the conflict and to create a permanent record of war from an eye-witness point of view. More than 300 artists were commissioned by the War Artists Advisory Committee, the scheme Clark devised, including Stanley Spencer, Henry Moore, Bawden, Paul and John Nash. Ravilious got his commission on Christmas Eve, 1939.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAssigned to the Admiralty, Ravilious set to work, painting ships and submarines at the Royal Navy Barracks at Chatham and coastal defences at Newhaven. Posted abroad, he painted fjjords in Norway and aircrafts over Iceland, always working in his distinctive style. Ravilious created around 100 art works while on commission as a war artist. He seems to have loved his war-artist duty; \"I enjoyed it a lot, even the bombing which is wonderful fireworks,\" he reported in 1940, in the midst of a grim sea battle off Norway. The following year, by this time with the RAF, he wrote home: \"It was more lovely than words can say, flying over the moors and the coast today in an open plane, just floating on great curly clouds and perfectly still and cool.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EHis war art drew criticism from some of the military hierarchy for not tackling panoramic views or varying his work's shape and size, or for its detached or innocent stance. However, Alan Ross, in his book Colours of War, praised the detached stance of Ravilious's art: \"The battle area may be a long way off but this, tenuously, is where it all begins. In most of Ravilious's war pictures, ships and sea, aircraft and landscape blend together, camouflage having transformed machinery and nature into a single abstract.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EArt of war and peace\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EHowever, Ai Weiwei believes staying true to his style was one of Ravilious's greatest strengths: \"From his paintings I can see his firm control of the watercolour, [his] calm expression, attention to detail and meticulous care, showing his extraordinary insight and expression.\" He adds: \"He did not focus on style, but rather on his attitude and way of expression. He added a strong personal touch to the themes that he depicted. That is why he is great.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjyzsx"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"HMS Glorious by Ravilious","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn July 1940, an exhibition of war artists' work was hung in London's National Gallery. Paris Agar, a senior curator specialising in art at the Imperial War Museum (IWM), notes it was the first public exhibition of art from World War Two, and the speed of its display was a great achievement. Despite any criticism, Ravilious \"was the artist with most works on display\". The collection was later dispersed to galleries and museums all over the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFifty of the works Ravilious created as a war artist were retained in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iwm.org.uk\u002Fcollections\u002Fsearch?query=ravilious+&pageSize=30&media-records=records-with-media&style=list\"\u003Ethe IWM collection\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Using watercolour, he could work at speed,\" says Agar. \"His work showed people what was going on outside Britain – his art made in Norway in particular.\" Ravilious was \"a shining light… [whose] work is aesthetically pleasing and accessible,\" she says. He often worked in very dangerous situations; sometimes painting on the deck of a military ship with Spitfires flying overhead, or moving at such speed his paints might be flying everywhere; in the light of the midnight Sun, making him more of a target; and sketching the evacuation of Narvik in Norway from a ship that, a few days later, was sunk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn his last letter to his wife, Tirzah, he wrote from abroad of having \"an unbelievable lunch of caviar, pate and cheese\", and asked if she'd like a pair of gloves made of \"sealskin with fur on the back\", telling her to draw around her hand so he could get the size. \"Goodbye darling. Hope you feel well again,\" he signed off. This was three days before he took off on a search-and-rescue mission, on 2 September 1942. The plane he was flying in went missing off the coast of Iceland. The wreckage was never recovered. He was the first of three official war artists to die during the conflict.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThree decades after Ravilious's death, a portfolio of his art was discovered under fellow artist Edward Bawden's bed, where it had been stored for safekeeping. Ravilious had made a series of paintings and lithographs inside submarines, including Commander of a Submarine Looking Through a Periscope, featuring fine crosshatched lines and a graphic depiction of the officer's view above sea level; and The Ward Room, depicting a mess cabin, both made in 1941. Some of these had been rejected by the War Office.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjz0jp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Ravilious Commander painting","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"They were ahead of their time,\"  Margy Kinmonth, director of the documentary \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt21085046\u002F\"\u003EEric Ravilious: Drawn to War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, tells BBC Culture. She says the fact that many of these works went into private collections \"is part of the reason we know him so little\". Her film draws together many of the unseen artworks, and features interviews with Ai Weiwei, British artist Grayson Perry, and writers Alan Bennett and Robert MacFarlane, exploring what they feel made Ravilious a great – and underrated – artist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Ravilious's works give us an almost Surrealist sense because of their calmness, and a kind of a detached angle of an observer – Ai Weiwei","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EKinmonth, whose previous films include Royal Paintbox, made with Prince Charles on the subject of Royal art, and War Art with Eddie Redmayne, set out to make \"a portrait of a marriage\"; her script was based on Tirzah's autobiography, which she calls \"an important feminist document… powerful, strong, immediate, funny\". She also had full access to the family archive of photographs and Eric's letters: a prolific letter writer, he sometimes sent four or five a day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe writer and actor Alan Bennett says in the film that he has long tried to define what it is to be English, but is sure \"Ravilious is part of it\". He feels the artist \"might not be properly estimated… [and that's] because he's so easy to like. He's so loved yet he nevertheless is a shared secret\". He appreciates the childlike and innocent aspect to Ravilious's style, but notes a Surreal edginess in it, citing the 1939 painting Tea at Furlongs, the flint Sussex cottage Eric and Tirzah shared with artist Penny Angus: \"It's seemingly a very peaceful scene but its emptiness is ominous, and I think it could equally be called Munich, 1938.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjz5zj"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Royal Ark by Ravilious","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EArtist Grayson Perry recalls his time spent living in Great Bardfield, in north Essex, where Ravilious once lived and which was an important artists' community from 1930 to 1970. He says paintings, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcollections.vam.ac.uk\u002Fitem\u002FO75781\u002Fa-farmhouse-bedroom-watercolour-drawing-ravilious-eric\u002F\"\u003EA Farmhouse Bedroom 1939\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"take me back to my childhood, wandering in an imaginary world, across the stubble\", he says, to houses that \"didn't even have electricity… very primitive, you can almost smell the damp\". He concludes: \"What Ravilious does very well is he takes what seems like unprepossessing subjects and makes them into masterpieces.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe IWM continues to commission war artists to record conflicts in which Britain is involved. Agar highlights the work in recent decades by artists such as Linda Kitson, who was the first female artist to go into a war zone, when she responded to the Falklands War in the early 1980s; Peter Howson, who responded to the Bosnian war in the 1990s; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tate.org.uk\u002Fwhats-on\u002Ftate-britain\u002Flanglands-bell-zardads-dog\"\u003ELanglands & Bell\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2002 and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fartanddesign\u002Fgallery\u002F2014\u002Fjul\u002F16\u002Fmark-neville-afghanistan-exhibition-imperial-war-museum-london-in-pictures\"\u003EMark Neville\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2014, who both produced art about Afghanistan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn August 2020, Ai Weiwei's artwork \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iwm.org.uk\u002Fhistory\u002Fai-weiwei-on-history-of-bombs\"\u003EHistory of Bombs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was installed at IWM, which commissioned it. It was part of IWM's Refugees season, reflecting the personal stories of people forced to flee their homes owing to conflict. For the site-specific work, he covered the atrium's floor in fabric printed with images of bombs, including the Soviet Union's Tsar Bomba, the most powerful nuclear weapon ever made. He says he \"shares some common points\" with Ravilious because \"we are both phenomenologists,\" he says, referring to those who study phenomena and how we experience them. \"For History of Bombs… I researched who created these bombs, when they were used, and how to talk about the origin of war in a more conceptual and rational way.\" He says he relates this to Eric Ravilious's works \"[which] give us an almost Surrealist sense because of their calmness and a kind of a detached angle of an observer\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjyzx4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Painting by Ravilious","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAi Weiwei reiterates his belief in Ravilious as a great artist, and great war artist to boot. \"His war paintings are very much like childrens' depiction of war,\" he tells BBC Culture. \"I saw a lot of paintings by refugee children and adults in a refugee camp in Iraq. They are very similar to Eric Ravilious's paintings. In their respective ways, they all depicted war in an innocent and almost naïve manner. In fact, the brutality of war cannot be understood by everyone because it is inhuman and inhumane.\" He concludes: \"Seen in this light, what Eric Ravilious did was enable us to look at war with a calm mind. This is truly special.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.foxtrotfilms.com\u002Ffilms\u002Feric-ravilious-drawn-to-war\u002F\"\u003EEric Ravilious: Drawn to War is at selected UK cinemas now\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell-18"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fcolumn\u002Fart"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-06T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Eric Ravilious: A very British vision of war?","headlineShort":"A very British vision of war?","image":["p0ck0c6k"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Ravilious painting","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Ravilious painting","promoImage":["p0cjz19y"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":["tag\u002Fart-history"],"summaryLong":"The masterpieces of Eric Ravilious offer a unique view of war – and peace – forcing us to \"look at war with a calm mind\". Beverley D'Silva explores his work, life and tragic death.","summaryShort":"How the underrated masterpieces of Eric Ravilious offer a unique view of wartime","tag":["tag\u002Fart-history"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-05T23:01:01.371675Z","entity":"article","guid":"a695f254-eb1b-4114-8ab3-c0f137dc6053","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-06T11:30:17.559344Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-eric-ravilious-the-man-who-painted-while-bombs-fell","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679329},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made","_id":"62c3713c1f4b7b15895b135b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fmark-allison"],"bodyIntro":"1972's Frenzy was a serial-killer thriller more graphic and shocking than anything Hitchcock had directed before. Was it the movie he had always wanted to make, asks Mark Allison.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA child of the Victorian age, Alfred Hitchcock was always fascinated by stories of the elusive Jack the Ripper and other supposedly \"gentlemanly\" murderers who lived in plain sight but stalked their victims from the shadows. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E– \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-10-rillington-place-a-truly-horrifying-true-crime-classic\"\u003EA horrifying true-crime classic\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E– \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220617-the-troubling-legacy-of-the-lolita-story-60-years-on\"\u003EThe troubling legacy of Lolita\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20211014-netflixs-you-and-how-nice-guys-became-the-real-villains\"\u003EHow 'nice guys' became the villains\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis third feature, 1927's silent thriller The Lodger: A Story of the London Fog, brought this macabre fixation to the screen and set the tone for much of the director's lauded career. In 1972, 51 films and almost as many years on from The Lodger, Hitchcock returned to London for what was to be his penultimate film, and final great work, Frenzy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjs3k9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn the surface, this project bore everything that audiences could expect from the ageing auteur – a murdered blonde and an innocent man clearing his name, served with lashings of suspense – but with the greater permissiveness of early 1970s cinema came a much nastier tone than Hitchcock had ever attempted before. Without fear of censorship and facing competition from a new wave of exploitation cinema, from US splatter horror to the Italian \u003Cem\u003Egiallo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, Hitchcock unleashed all his voyeuristic impulses on this shockingly brutal film. The result is, perhaps, just the sort of horribly graphic murder story that he’d always wanted to make, if only he'd been allowed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHitchcock had entered the 1960s at the peak of his powers, with the tremendous success of Psycho (1960) followed closely by The Birds (1963). However, three subsequent critical and commercial misfires – Marnie (1964), Torn Curtain (1966), and Topaz (1969) – appeared to suggest that the master of suspense was falling out of step with modern moviegoers. European influences and the collapse of Hollywood's censorious \"Hays Code\" had ushered in an edgier, more graphic, and more cynical US cinema.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe film allowed the famously repressed Hitchcock to explore the darker sides of sexuality and violence that had always fascinated him – Raymond Foery\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The film allowed the famously repressed Hitchcock to explore the darker sides of sexuality and violence that had always fascinated him – Raymond Foery","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"In the 1930s and '40s Hitchcock often said that women were his main audience as they were the ones who chose what to see when on a date, but by the '60s and '70s that demographic had changed – the key audiences were young and male, and they wanted to see on screen what couldn't be shown on television, and this meant violence and nudity,\" Caroline Young, author of Hitchcock's Heroines, tells BBC Culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn need of another hit and keen to return to a more modest style in the vein of Psycho, Hitchcock recruited the successful English playwright Anthony Shaffer to adapt Arthur La Bern's 1966 novel Goodbye Piccadilly, Farewell Leicester Square. \"It is obvious upon reflection what must have attracted Hitchcock to it,\" writes Raymond Foery in his book Alfred Hitchcock's Frenzy: The Last Masterpiece. \"The 'wrong man' motif, the gruesome murders, the interplay between the police and the real criminal; all of these elements must have seemed quite familiar to Hitchcock.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA gritty homecoming\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrenzy was Hitchcock's first British film since 1950's Stage Fright, and the opening titles emphasise the director's homecoming with a grand aerial shot of the Thames, accompanied by Ron Goodwin's bombastic score. The rest of the film, however, adopts a more naturalistic aesthetic, a marked shift for Hitchcock. \"It has the cinematic look of the more documentary-like 1970s; cinematographer Gil Taylor (and the uncredited Len South) created a palette that looks a lot more like The French Connection than, say, North by Northwest,\" Foery tells BBC Culture. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA blackly comic tone is swiftly established when a political rally outside London County Hall is interrupted by a nude female cadaver washing up on the riverbank. As Patrick McGilligan notes grimly in his Hitchcock biography A Life in Darkness and Light, this was \"the buttocks shot Hitchcock had pursued since Psycho\" – such nudity having been entirely obscured during the latter's famous shower scene.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe deceased is the latest victim of the so-called \"necktie murderer\", a serial rapist-killer whose identity is eventually revealed to the audience as Bob Rusk, a psychotic Covent Garden greengrocer brilliantly played by Barry Foster. Rusk seems a prototype of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20211014-netflixs-you-and-how-nice-guys-became-the-real-villains\"\u003E\"nice guy\" villain trope\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. His suave, affable, and stylish exterior merely conceals a violent misogyny beneath. \"I think villains should be very attractive men. Otherwise they’d never get near their victims,\" Hitchcock told an audience at the University of Columbia Film School in June 1972. \"If you look at most of your cultural murderers, they're rather gentlemanly sort of fellows.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjs4xt"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDue to Rusk's conniving, his friend Richard Blaney (John Finch), a down-on-his-luck barman and former RAF pilot, is wrongly suspected of the killings and forced to go on the run with his girlfriend Babs (Anna Massey). Blaney is surely one of the most unlikeable heroes in cinema. Unlike the charismatic \"wrong men\" played by Jimmy Stewart and Cary Grant in Hitchcock's earlier thrillers, Blaney is scruffy, aggressive, and mean, and so it is little surprise how quickly he is condemned when circumstantial evidence gathers against him. \"Blaney is an angry, violent young man: we need time to sympathise with him,\" remarked Hitchcock in a 1972 interview with Ecran magazine. \"Life has been very hard on him.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHitchcock had struggled with the new wave of 1960s films stars; of his experience working with Paul Newman on Torn Curtain, Foery quotes Hitchcock complaining to François Truffaut, \"As you know, he’s a 'method' actor.\" Filming Frenzy in London allowed Hitchcock to cast lesser-known faces from the West End, which worked towards the film's grittier approach. \"It has no Hollywood walk of fame stars. No Cary Grant, no Jimmy Stewart, no Grace Kelly,\" says Foery. \"Instead, Hitchcock was able to work with theatrically-trained actors who easily responded to his direction.  No 'method' actors, no prima donnas, no celebrities… The result was a film populated by believable characters, 'ordinary' individuals rather than movie stars pretending to be ordinary.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Hitchcock's later films were marked by fetishised violence. I think it wasn't just a Hitchcock problem, but a problem with cinema at that time – Carolyn Young","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHitchcock's characteristically artful depictions of murder and violence are some of the most celebrated in his career, but the first on-screen killing in Frenzy is undoubtedly the director's most shocking and notorious. Blaney's ex-wife Brenda (Barbara Leigh-Hunt) falls victim to Rusk in a sequence that Donald Spoto describes in his Hitchcock biography The Dark Side of Genius as \"one of the most repellent examples of a detailed murder in the history of film.\" Rusk's rape and strangulation of Brenda unfolds in sickening detail – even from half a century's distance, it remains an excruciating watch. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a work of montage, the scene is a triumph on a par with the Psycho’s shower stabbing, but the gratuity of the violence and nudity is unlike anything else in Hitchcock's oeuvre. \"In contrast to Psycho, which in promotions and in the film itself had titillated spectators with hopes of seeing Janet Leigh's breasts but which had withheld the full sight of the desired objects, Frenzy shows an extreme closeup of the woman's breast as she struggles to pull her bra back over it, all the while murmuring the words of the psalm. It is anything but lovely; it is infinitely sad, pathetic, among the most disturbing scenes cinema has to offer,\" notes Tania Modleski in her excellent book The Women Who Knew Too Much, which considers Hitchcock via feminist theory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHitchcock was not the only mainstream filmmaker of the period to present sexual violence with shocking verisimilitude. The previous year had seen the release of Stanley Kubrick's A Clockwork Orange and Sam Peckinpah's Straw Dogs, while 1972 also brought Wes Craven's Last House on the Left and John Boorman’s Deliverance. \"The film allowed the famously repressed Hitchcock to explore the darker sides of sexuality and violence that had always fascinated him,\" says Foery. \"The zeitgeist of the era inhabits Frenzy and freed Hitchcock to bluntly reveal the depravity that harks back to the Jack the Ripper era that fascinated him as a child.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjs4mq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile promoting Frenzy, Hitchcock denied that was merely indulging a fad for increased nudity, lamenting that he had not been granted such a free hand with his earlier films. Speaking at the Columbia Film School, he regretted the presence of Janet Leigh's bra in Psycho, \"She should have been stripped, but then we weren’t allowed. There wasn't that 'permissiveness'.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EHow misogynistic is it?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe film's treatment of women was vehemently criticised at the time. A July 1972 article in the New York Times by Professor Victoria Sullivan asked \"Does Frenzy Degrade Women?\" Sullivan’s assessment was emphatic: \"I suspect that films like Frenzy may be sicker and more pernicious than your cheapie humdrum porno flick, because they are slicker, more artistically compelling versions of sado-masochistic fantasies.\" Meanwhile, America's National Organisation for Women gave the film one of their annual \"Keep Her in Her Place\" awards for male chauvinism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn The Women Who Knew Too Much, Modleski stops short of calling Hitchcock a misogynist, taking a more ambivalent view on Hitchcock's attitudes to women: \"It seems to me more useful, however, to consider Frenzy not simply as the reflection of the dirty mind of a frustrated old man nor even of a new 'freedom' in sexual mores, but rather as a cultural response to women's demands for sexual and social liberation, demands that were, after all, at their height in 1972 when Frenzy was made,\" she argues. \"...Hitchcock's fear and loathing of women is accompanied by a lucid understanding of – and even sympathy for – women’s problems in patriarchy.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's true that while Hitchcock was happy to indulge gruesome images of women being murdered and mutilated, his female characters were never underwritten, and in the case of Frenzy they are certainly the warmest and most sympathetic parts the script has to offer. \"Hitchcock's later films were marked by misogyny and fetishised violence, from the torture of Tippi Hedren and the rape scene in Marnie, to the brutal murders of women in Frenzy,\" Caroline Young tells BBC Culture. \"I think it wasn't just a Hitchcock problem, but a problem with cinema at that time. Violence was being meted out to women on screen; they were being punished for their increasing sense of agency and this was being reflected back to audiences. In Frenzy, Barbara Leigh-Hunt and Anna Massey's characters are both independent women with careers, and they are punished for that independence. But rather than showing two-dimensional characters, Hitchcock painted these women with complexity so that the audience can identify with them. It's as if he's trying to arouse, and then shock and shame the audience for their enjoyment of violence.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Hitchcock was the supremely calculating exploiter of the full range of the medium's possibilities – [and] the freedoms of post-1960 allowed him to widen his canvas – Charles Barr","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrenzy may be more explicit than Hitchcock's previous work, but he had explored male violence, and suggestions of sexual violence, throughout his career. \"I don't think of Frenzy as notably nastier than some of his other works – Shadow of a Doubt (1943) goes farther and deeper than Frenzy in this way,\" Sidney Gottlieb, editor of Hitchcock on Hitchcock and Hitchcock Annual, tells BBC Culture. \"And I don't think that Frenzy shows Hitchcock unleashed in a way that establishes a model different from his lifelong practice of using the 'graphic' not as the essence but as one element of a much more complex 'pure cinema' of stylisation, subtlety, and suggestion. Even the quite brutal – and yes, graphic – murder of Brenda is highly stylised, and the nudity, as shocking and attention-getting as it is, is far from the main element in the sequence.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, there is nothing else in the film as brutal as Brenda's murder – in fact, the later murder of Babs is a quite ingenious exercise in restraint. As Rusk escorts her into his flat with the chilling invitation, \"you're my type of woman,\" the door is closed on the audience and the camera slowly backs away from the scene into the busy street outside, a complex feat of camerawork which Hitchcock executes in one nauseating movement. The horribly inevitable crime has been set in motion, and this time Hitchcock refuses to indulge his audience with another exhibition of horror.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cjs3hp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I tend always to revert to the idea that Hitchcock was the supremely calculating exploiter of the full range of the medium's possibilities. Mainstream and avant-garde, Hollywood and non-Hollywood, montage and long-take, silent and sound, male focus and female focus, and so much more,\" Charles Barr, author of English Hitchcock, tells BBC Culture. \"The freedoms of post-1960 allowed him to widen his canvas, as it were, but without renouncing the eloquently allusive methods that he had been using and refining throughout his career.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrenzy premiered as the closing film at the 1972 Cannes Film Festival and received a broadly rapturous critical response. Many of the contemporary reviews betrayed a sense of relief that the great Hitchcock had not produced another dud. Gene Siskel wrote in the Chicago Tribune, \"Hitchcock, after a string of four indifferent films, is back providing grand entertainment,\" while the headline of Jay Cocks' review in Time Magazine declared the director was \"still the master\". The film would go on to outperform Psycho at the box office and become Hitchcock's most financially successful work for Universal. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFifty years on, Frenzy remains a chillingly effective thriller and a curious bookend to the murderous saga which commenced with The Lodger. It is drenched in Hitchcockian verve, and, paradoxically, unlike anything he had made before. \"Frenzy is steeped in the (English) past, yet contemporary in some of its ambitions, a testament to a director less encumbered by codes (of all sorts), but with complicated results that leave us wondering how well we ever really knew Hitchcock himself,\" Christine Sprengler, author of Hitchcock and Contemporary Art, tells BBC Culture.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Hitchcock had always been celebrated for his visions of male violence within aggressively patriarchal worlds, but with Frenzy he chose not to sugar the pill. Perhaps the film's savagery suggests how its director might always have operated in a less censorious industry – but then his final film, 1976's caper Family Plot, contains little of the nastiness which characterises Frenzy. It's more likely that Hitchcock was reluctant to age into the role of an antiquated heritage act, and even in the abrasive era of the New Hollywood, giallo, and exploitation cinema, the septuagenarian genius was still probing new ways of horrifying his audience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELove film and TV? Join \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002F440074069852291\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBBC Culture Film and TV Club\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Facebook, a community for cinephiles all over the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E page or message us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made-14"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffilm"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-05T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Frenzy at 50: The most violent film Hitchcock ever made","headlineShort":"Hitchcock's most controversial thriller","image":["p0cjs335"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"1972's Frenzy was a serial-killer thriller more graphic and shocking than anything Hitchcock had directed before. Was it the movie he had always wanted to make, asks Mark Allison.","summaryShort":"How the great director went ultra-violent with his penultimate film Frenzy","tag":["tag\u002Ffilm-history"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-04T23:00:58.980289Z","entity":"article","guid":"49b9f7ee-6cdb-423c-ab87-89c119e210e0","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-05T13:19:25.21274Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-frenzy-at-50-the-most-violent-film-hitchcock-ever-made","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679329},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july","_id":"62c21f9c1f4b7b04143e9324","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Famy-charles"],"bodyIntro":"From a Resident Evil series to new sitcom Uncoupled, with Neil Patrick Harris as a suddenly-single gay man in his 40s, Amy Charles lists this month's best shows to watch and stream.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"infographic","image":["p0chth9f"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Still from Black Bird","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E1. \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBlack Bird\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESentenced to 10 years in a minimum-security prison for drug dealing without the chance of parole, Jimmy Keene was set to wait out his stretch. But he's given the chance of a lifetime: to enter a maximum-security prison and befriend a suspected serial killer whose case is up for appeal, extract a confession and the locations of bodies from him, and then be given his freedom. Inspired by true events and adapted from Keene's memoir In with the Devil – co-written with investigative journalist Hillel Levin – Black Bird promises to be a psychological study of one man trying to extract answers from another, and work out whether he is telling the truth. Starring Taron Egerton (Rocketman) as Keene and Paul Walter Hauser (Richard Jewell) as Larry Hall, the killer in question, Black Bird is the creation of renowned novelist Dennis Lehane, whose books include Shutter Island and Mystic River, both themselves adapted into hit screen thrillers. The supporting cast includes the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fentertainment-arts-61600212\"\u003Elate, great Ray Liotta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, playing Egerton's father in one of his final screen roles, alongside Greg Kinnear (As Good As It Gets) and Sepideh Moafi (The Deuce). \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=aH1FOkJys3Y\"\u003EWatch the trailer for Black Bird here\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe first two episodes of Black Bird are released on Apple TV+ on 8 July, with the rest following weekly\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chtkvv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Still from Uncoupled","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E2. Uncoupled\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESeventeen years is a long time to spend with someone – and for 40-something Michael (Neil Patrick Harris), whose husband walks out on him, readjustment back to the single life after all that time in a relationship is no mean feat. This new comedy from Sex and the City and Emily in Paris creator Darren Star will see Michael trying to get to grips with a thoroughly changed dating world. The series got into hot water last year when it emerged that it had dropped a character – a Latina housekeeper – after backlash from actor Ada Maris, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvariety.com\u002F2021\u002Ftv\u002Fnews\u002Fada-maris-uncoupled-neil-patrick-harris-darren-star-1235110247\u002F\"\u003Ewho had read the script and told Variety\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the character was \"hurtful and derogatory\". \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fculture\u002F2021\u002Fdec\u002F15\u002Fno-one-loves-the-extreme-more-than-me-neil-patrick-harris-on-dad-life-desire-and-doogie-howser\"\u003ESpeaking to the Guardian, Harris said\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that he \"applauded\" Netflix for taking the step to remove the character. With Star's other shows bringing in legions of dedicated fans, Netflix will surely be banking on this to be a hit. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=NZEwlyPbTt4\"\u003EWatch the teaser trailer for Uncoupled here\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUncoupled is released on 29 July on Netflix\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chtk42"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Still from The Terminal List","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E3. \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Terminal List \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There's evil in this world, the likes of which you can't possibly imagine,\" says James Reece (Chris Pratt) in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=x9FvvsC0B5Q\"\u003Ethe trailer for this new revenge action-thriller\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Adapted from Jack Carr's best-selling novel of the same name, The Terminal List follows James Reece, a US Navy Seal who lost 12 colleagues during a covert mission. Back home with his family, Reece is traumatised, but determined to find out what happened to his platoon and take down the dark forces still at large. Pratt also serves as executive producer, and Constance Wu (Crazy Rich Asians), Taylor Kitsch (Friday Night Lights), Jeanne Tripplehorn (Mrs America) and Riley Keough (American Honey) make up just some of the star-studded cast. A review of the original book in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtontimes.com\u002Fnews\u002F2018\u002Fmar\u002F1\u002Fbook-review-the-terminal-list-by-jack-carr\u002F\"\u003EThe Washington Times said it\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"grabs you from the start and never lets go. The action is explosive. And the suspense will blindside you.\" Let's hope the same applies here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Terminal List is released on 1 July on Prime Video\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chtkf1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Still from The Rehearsal","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E4.   \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Rehearsal \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHow far would you go to reduce the uncertainties of everyday life? This new comedy explores the possibilities of rehearsing for life's biggest moments, using a construction crew, a team of actors, and seemingly unlimited resources. It's written, directed and starring Nathan Fielder – co-creator of cult series Nathan For You and executive producer of HBO's How to With John Wilson – who announced the release of the series to his 470,000+ Twitter followers with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fnathanfielder\u002Fstatus\u002F1537108581878837248\"\u003Ea short clip of the show featuring people watching a parent and baby\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on video monitors: so far, so mysterious. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.interviewmagazine.com\u002Fculture\u002Fnathan-fielder-louis-theroux-nathan-for-you-how-to-with-john-wilson\"\u003ESpeaking to Louis Theroux in Interview magazine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E two years ago, Fielder hinted at a change of pace in what he's creating, saying \"now, I'm working on new stuff that addresses more accurately where my head's currently at.\" If it is anything like his other comedy though, expect wince-inducing irreverence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Rehearsal premieres on 15 July on HBO and HBO Max in the US\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chtk9h"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Still from The Longest Night","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E5. The Longest Night\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's Christmas Eve at the Monte Baruca psychiatric prison in Madrid, where dangerous serial killer Simón Lago (Luis Callejo, The Fury of a Patient Man) is being held. An armed gang surround the prison and cut off communications, with the aim of capturing Lago. But warden Hugo (Alberto Ammann, Narcos) isn't going down without a fight. Created by Víctor Sierra and Xosé Morais, two of the creators of Néboa, and directed by Sky Rojo's Óscar Pedraza, this Spanish-language thriller series looks set to be chock-full of explosive, high-octane action. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=GW6HE08rTog\"\u003EWatch the trailer for The Longest Night here\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Longest Night is released on 8 July on Netflix\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chthv4"],"imageAlignment":"right","imageAltText":"Still from The Control Room","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E6.  \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Control Room \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen someone dials 999, life-and-death decisions are made very quickly. Set in Glasgow, The Control Room follows Gabe (played by Iain De Caestecker, Agents of Shield), a call handler whose world is turned upside down when he receives a call from a distressed woman who appears to know him. Gabe must work out who this woman is, and make decisions which could have life-altering consequences. Written by Nick Leather (Murdered For Being Different), this thriller also stars Joanna Vanderham (Warrior), Sharon Rooney (My Mad Fat Diary), Daniel Portman (Game of Thrones) and Taj Atwal (Line of Duty). Speaking when he was announced as the lead, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fmediacentre\u002F2021\u002Fthe-control-room-casting\"\u003EDe Caestecker said\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"The Control Room is one of the most exciting scripts I've ever read, I was on the edge of my seat the whole time so I'm thrilled to now be bringing it to life.\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=hHrCKNcq_yA\"\u003EWatch the trailer for The Control Room here\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Control Room will be released in July on BBC One and BBC iPlayer in the UK\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chtjyz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Still from Surface","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E7.  \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESurface\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBilled as a \"sexy, elevated thriller\", the San Francisco-set Surface sees Sophie (Gugu Mbatha-Raw, Belle) wake up from a traumatic head injury with severe memory loss following an apparent suicide attempt. As she's guided through recovery by her husband and friends, she begins to ask whether what they're telling her about her life is real. Created by Veronica West (High Fidelity), with direction from Sam Miller (I May Destroy You), it also stars Oliver Jackson-Cohen (The Haunting of Hill House), Stephan James (If Beale Street Could Talk), Ari Graynor (The Disaster Artist) and Marianne Jean-Baptiste (Without a Trace). The blurb for the show describes Surface as \"a story of self-discovery which contemplates if we are pre-programmed to become who we are, or if we choose our own identity,\" so expect major twists and turns as Sophie tries to find the truth. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=dH3yylTyB8M\"\u003EWatch the trailer for Surface here\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe first three episodes of Surface are released on Apple TV+ on 29 July, with the rest released weekly\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chtjwl"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Still from Resident Evil","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E8.  \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EResident Evil \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor more than 25 years, Resident Evil titles have been some of the gaming world's most popular. The survival horror franchise has spawned an empire of spin-offs including novels, six films, comics, and now, finally, after years of development, a live-action TV series. The show is set across two timelines: in the present-day, teenage siblings Jade (Ella Balinska) and Billie Wesker (Siena Agudong) move with their father Albert (John Wick's Lance Reddick) to New Racoon City, the home of the sinister Umbrella Corporation. Cut to 2036, and Earth is a very different place: there are now six billion zombies – people who have been infected with the so-called T-virus – and only 15 million humans left, as Jade fights for survival. Showrunner Andrew Dabb (Supernatural) \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgizmodo.com\u002Fresident-evil-trailer-netflix-interview-canon-wesker-1848912884\"\u003Etold Gizmodo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the show is true to the games' roots, saying: \"It's got the blood and the guts and the gore and the monsters and the secrets and the betrayals and all that stuff. And I hope people really respond to that.\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=uIdjcDTc9Vk\"\u003EWatch the trailer for Resident Evil here\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EResident Evil is released on 14 July on Netflix\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELove film and TV? Join \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002F440074069852291\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBBC Culture Film and TV Club\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E on Facebook, a community for cinephiles all over the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july-15"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-04T00:00:02Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"8 of the best TV shows to watch this July","headlineShort":"8 TV shows to watch this July","image":["p0chtjnm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Still from Resident Evil","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From a Resident Evil series to new sitcom Uncoupled, with Neil Patrick Harris as a suddenly-single gay man in his 40s, Amy Charles lists this month's best shows to watch and stream.","summaryShort":"Including a TV series of Resident Evil and a sitcom starring Neil Patrick Harris","tag":["tag\u002Ftelevision"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-03T23:00:25.439861Z","entity":"article","guid":"a54dd2ce-985f-4aac-a8fd-c9ea3c1d0fe0","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-03T23:00:25.439861Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-8-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-july","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679330},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now","_id":"62b41fcc1f4b7b110a3fbcf9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fbeverley-dsilva"],"bodyIntro":"Why does the first great Greek civilisation continue to inspire artists and designers today? Beverley D'Silva explores the Hellenistic revival and its roots with the ancient Minoans of Crete.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003ECorinthian columns; sculptures of goddesses and god-like figures; sun-baked buildings bleached bone white; geraniums planted in olive-oil cans; the obligatory cats lolling about – If you're dreaming of all things Greek, you're not alone. We're in the midst of a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbusiness.pinterest.com\u002Fen-gb\u002Fpinterest-predicts\u002F2022\u002Fhellenistic-revival\u002F\"\u003EHellenistic revival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a fascination with the Ancient Greek aesthetic that's being most keenly embraced by the post-millennial Gen Z, according to Pinterest. The site reports a rise in trending search terms searches such as Ancient Greek jewellery (up 120%) and wallpaper with an Aphrodite aesthetic (up 180%), and a triple increase in Greek statue art.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E More like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220513-what-defines-cultural-appropriation\"\u003EWhat defines cultural appropriation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220511-how-nature-and-extreme-wilding-can-re-boot-our-minds\"\u003EEight nature books to change your life\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220503-the-homes-that-bring-nature-indoors\"\u003EHow the 'new naturalists' live\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWe can but speculate as to why this should this be, but perhaps there's truth in the idea that the fantasy and opulence of magical Ancient Greece is highly attractive in a post-lockdown age – just as Dior's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20190129-the-formidable-women-behind-the-legendary-christian-dior\"\u003ENew Look\u003C\u002Fa\u003E marked a return to indulgent fashion following World War Two's austerity and utilitarian clothing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cb8t2d"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Interior","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIt's no surprise that the influence and impact of Ancient Greece resonates today. As defined by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fplace\u002Fancient-Greece\"\u003EBritannica\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the phrase refers to the northeastern Mediterranean region in the era between \"the end of the Mycenaean civilisation (1200BC) and the death of Alexander the Great (323BC)\", when it was one of the most important places in the world, according to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmedia.nationalgeographic.org\u002Fassets\u002Ffile\u002FAncient_Greece_posters_1_Part1.pdf\"\u003ENational Geographic\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The people of Hellas – as the lands of the Hellenes were called (the names Greece and Greek were conferred on them later by the Romans) were great thinkers, writers, warriors, actors, athletes, artists and politicians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ERoderick Beaton in his history book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2021\u002Fdec\u002F10\u002Fthe-greeks-by-roderick-beaton-review-a-global-history\"\u003EThe Greeks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, writes that the Greek civilisations were the \"origin of much of the arts, science, politics and law as we know them throughout the developed world today\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThink Aristotle in his studies of plants, animals and rocks; Herodotus in writing history; Socrates and Plato in philosophy. The Greeks pioneered democracy; reading with an alphabet; the Olympics; geometry and mathematical calculations; health innovations (the Hippocratic oath is still a standard of ethics for physicians); great architecture, like the Parthenon, Temple of Zeus and Acropolis; theatre, care of Greek comedy and tragedy; and language – with an estimated 150,000 English words still in use being derived from Greek words.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAll this before we've touched on religion and deities. For sheer fantasy value, what can beat the idea of a family of superpowers – such as Zeus, Hera, Aphrodite, Athena, Apollo and Poseidon – dwelling in a cloud palace above Mount Olympus, each controlling a different aspect of life? For some, such as Eric Weiner, author of The Socrates Express, a treatise on the ancients' philosophy and travel, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fonezero.medium.com\u002Fwhy-this-is-happening-in-the-21st-century-1806e9af17b8\"\u003EAncient Greeks have a lot to teach us\u003C\u002Fa\u003E about values today. In an essay on how technology can deceive us, especially in relation to war reporting, he writes: \"One way to build a brighter future is by revisiting the past. Ancient Greece in particular.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cb8v21"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Knossos fresco of bull","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWeiner adds: \"The Greeks, imperfect as they were, honoured beauty and justice and moral excellence, and so they cultivated these values. We honour speed and connectivity and portability, so that is what we get.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe first great Greek civilisation\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EHowever if the Ancient Greeks were high-achievers, they stood on the shoulders of giant civilisations that went before them, such as the Mycenaeans, whose story was told by Homer in the epic stories the Illiad and Odyssey. But arguably more fascinating, and certainly more mysterious, are the mighty Minoans. The first great Greek civilisation and the first literate one in Europe, the Minoans dwelt on Crete, the largest and most populated of the Greek islands, from 2200 to 1450BC. They were an \"advanced civilisation\" that lived in a \"land of prosperity and plenty\" writes Beaton.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Finds at the ancient city of Knossos revealed a civilisation of highly sophisticated seafarers, who made exquisite jewellery, pottery, sculpture and frescoes","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe Minoans came to light when the ancient city of Knossos on Crete was discovered in 1878 by Minos Kalokairinos, a native of the island and an amateur archeologist. It wasn't excavated until 1900, when the British archeologist Sir Arthur Evans bought the site. He and his team worked for 35 years on five acres of ruins, unveiling the Minoan palace complex, Europe's oldest city. Finds revealed a civilisation, which Evans named after the island's King Minos, of highly sophisticated seafarers, who invented advanced drains, porches and verandas to protect them from the elements, and made exquisite jewellery, pottery, sculpture and frescoes painted with animals such as dolphins and bulls.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhen news of the Minoans hit the press, it drew keen interest from scholars and artists globally. In 1933, the philosopher Georges Bataille and artist André Masson, both French, launched their avant-garde arts magazine, Minotaure. A mythological animal, part-bull, part-man, the minotaur dwelt in a labyrinth designed by Daedalus and his son Icarus, on the command of King Minos; the creature featured in their work, and that of Max Ernst, André Breton, and Pablo Picasso, who made many artworks of it. The minotaur's physical power and sexual energy, and its links to the unconscious, were aspects Picasso is said to have strongly related to himself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cb9t5q"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Knossos fresco of dolphins","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EFashion was fascinated by Minoan chic too: in 1912, Spanish fashion and textile designer Mariano Fortuny created a silk scarf titled Knossos, inspired by Ancient Cretan costumes, which made his name. The textiles of fashion designer Yannis Tseklenis, a big international brand, featured ancient Greek vases and Byzantine manuscripts; while Gianni Versace's bold, Hellenistic designs were a signature style, and became synonymous with 1970s and 80s Greek decadence. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EGiven the Minoans' influence on creatives, why do we seem to know less about them than other ancient civilisations? Nicoletta Momigliano, Professor of Aegean Studies at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fresearch-information.bris.ac.uk\u002Fen\u002Fpersons\u002Fnicoletta-momigliano\"\u003EUniversity of Bristol\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, tells BBC Culture that one reason is \"the Minoan civilisation was relatively circumscribed geographically, being found within the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean regions – so they didn't have the same geographical spread as the Romans, for example\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EShe adds: \"Also the Minoans' systems of writing – Linear A and Cretan Pictographic – have not been fully deciphered, and we do not know much about the languages they used. We have some written documents and can understand some of their content, but not much.\" It's difficult to decipher these texts, she says, because \"unless you have something like the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britishmuseum.org\u002Fcollection\u002Fegypt\u002Fexplore-rosetta-stone\"\u003ERosetta Stone\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, you need to have lots of documents, just as when you decipher codes, as they did at Bletchley Park during the Second World War\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E'Power, beauty and darkness'\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBut of all the finds at the Knossos ruins, one that caused the biggest sensation was the figures of the snake goddess. Found in 1903, the larger figure has a snake twining around its body and arms; a smaller figure holds snakes in each of her upraised hands. Both have bared breasts and bell-shaped skirts, said to suggest fertility and nature, while the snakes evoke the underworld.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cb8tqj"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Snake goddess figure","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAccording to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fheraklionmuseum.gr\u002Flanguage\u002Fen\u002Fhome\u002F\"\u003EHeraklion Archaeological Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Crete, where they're on permanent display, the snake goddesses are \"the most important cult objects from the Knossos Temple repositories\". They also beg the question: was ancient Crete a matriarchy? Kelly Macquire, in a podcast for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.worldhistory.org\u002FMinoan_Civilization\u002F\"\u003EAncient History Encyclopaedia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, says: \"Women were prominent in Minoan religion, more than any other civilisation, and we know this because of the snake goddess statues that have been found in Minoan contexts, and the prominence of priestesses in Minoan art\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBeaton, commenting on Crete's ancient palaces (of which Knossos was the biggest), writes: \"It is possible the greatest deity of them all is the lithe-waisted, bare-breasted goddess often represented on top of a pinnacle of rock, while wild animals or male humans gaze at her in adoration\". It's unclear whether the island was ruled by women but he adds: \"It is a striking fact the Greeks of the classical age reserved prime positions for dominant females in their \u003Cem\u003Estories, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ewhile largely excluding women from public roles or positions of authority in real life,\" he writes, and lists the myths that \"are full of powerful, feisty women\", such as Clytemnestra, Electra, Medea, Medusa and Minos's \"insatiable queen Pasiphae\", while adding some had \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-how-fear-sex-and-power-shaped-ancient-mythology\"\u003Etheir monstrous sides\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe snake goddess figures have beguiled artists, including US feminist artist Judy Chicago. Her artwork, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.brooklynmuseum.org\u002Fexhibitions\u002Fdinner_party\u002F\"\u003EThe Dinner Party\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (1974-79) is a conceptual piece in the shape of a triangle-shaped table, measuring almost 15 metres on each side, with 39 place settings, each representing a mythical, legendary or historical woman. One of the settings is a homage to the snake goddess, with its table runner embroidered with her name. According to the website of the Brooklyn Museum in New York City, where the work is a long-term installation, the design and colours of the setting's dinner plate, and that of its cutlery and chalice, are \"largely based on the Cretan snake goddesses statues\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Greek fashion and jewellery designer Sophia Kokosalaki channelled the snake goddess enigma and Minoan culture","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EIn more recent years, fashion designer Mary Katrantzou has infused her work with images of Minoan goddesses, while Greek fashion and jewellery designer Sophia Kokosalaki channelled the snake goddess enigma and Minoan culture more generally. Described by Vogue as \"the designer who gave fashion fire and spirit\", Kokosalaki sadly died in October 2019, aged 47. She was born in Athens, and trained at St Martin's in London, where she built her highly successful luxury brand of clothing and jewellery, always retaining \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vogue.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Farticle\u002Fsophia-kokosalaki-obituary\"\u003Ea passion for her home country and Crete\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where her parents were born. She said the snake goddess enigma was her \"favourite\", since she first saw her at the age six or seven. The goddess, with her \"exposed breasts, and tiny waist\" represented \"power, beauty and also an element of darkness [that] framed my aesthetic early on,\" she told  British Vogue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cb8v8p"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Jewellery by Sophia Kokosalaki","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EKokosalaki's name as a designer was sealed worldwide with her designs for the opening ceremony costumes for the Greek Olympics in Athens, 2004, and her designs drew high-profile fans such as Keira Knightley and Kate Hudson. Antony Baker, Kokosalaki's widower and business partner, is now director of the company they founded together in 1999, and has taken on the mantle of designer. Creating the designs himself has been easier than employing a designer, as he tells BBC Culture, \"I'm so clear about what she liked… Before Sophia died, she told me she wanted me to keep the brand going, for our daughter, Stelli,\" he says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWith the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sophiakokosalaki.com\u002F\"\u003Enew collection\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (autumn\u002Fwinter 2022\u002F23), it's clear Baker continues his late wife's vision, and the stunning pieces, wrought in gold, silver and pearls, were recently \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vogue.com\u002Farticle\u002Fsophia-kokosalaki-jewelry-collection-relaunch\"\u003Efeatured in Vogue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. They are inspired by seafaring artefacts like anchors, ropes and the sails of ships, associated with the Trojan War and Odysseus's voyage home. \"I looked into the boat that goes to Hades, and at how the boats were made, and the beautiful associations with that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003ESharing this passion for all things Cretan is Athens-based Katerina Frentzou, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrandingheritage.org\u002Fen\u002Fhomepage\u002F\"\u003EBranding Heritage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a showcase for contemporary Greek designers and artisans, among them \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrandingheritage.org\u002Fen\u002Fprojects\u002Fintangible-heritage\u002F\"\u003Etraditional weavers on Crete\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Branding Heritage's first exhibition, Contemporary Minoans, showcased how the civilisation's art, such as geometric and  labyrinthine patterns, lotus flower and bee symbols resonate today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cb8sks"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Lilah Clarke pot","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBranding Heritage's collection will launch as a virtual 3D museum in September; among its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrandingheritage.org\u002Fen\u002Fcollections\u002Fcontemporary-minoans\u002F\"\u003Edesigns\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are a necklace by Sophia Kokosalaki featuring silver votive knives; designer Ergon Mykonos's draped jacket over a gathered skirt with a bra top, trimmed with fabric printed with the snake goddess emblem; and Maria Sigma's handwoven textiles inspired by the Minotaur and Asterion. Not forgetting a clay vessel decorated with a giant octopus – inspired by a Minoan vessel, the pot is by Lilah Clarke, the granddaughter of Theodore Fyfe, an architect in Arthur Evans's team, combining ancient culture and modern sensibilities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIsn't that, after all, what these artisans and designers are doing today? Channelling a culture because of its beguiling mystery, which it will retain until we find a way to decipher its written texts. Until that day, we can continue to dream and to create, which is perhaps no bad thing. As Einstein famously said: \"The most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the source of all true art and science.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now-16"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fthe-collection"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-06T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The mysterious ancient civilisation that resonates now","headlineShort":"The mysterious ancient culture for now","image":["p0cb8th1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Knossos fresco","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Knossos fresco","promoImage":["p0cb8th1"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":["tag\u002Fhistory"],"summaryLong":"Why does the first great Greek civilisation continue to inspire artists and designers today? Beverley D'Silva explores the Hellenistic revival and its roots with the ancient Minoans.","summaryShort":"Why the first great Greek civilisation continues to inspire us today","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Fjewellery"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-05T23:00:54.275111Z","entity":"article","guid":"ad87d9dc-a726-4563-bfa4-983117f9e0c9","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-05T23:00:54.275111Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-the-mysterious-ancient-civilisation-that-resonates-now","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679330},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed","_id":"62bb8f0d1f4b7b4c5c68f521","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fjo-lawson-tancred"],"bodyIntro":"From ancient scrolls to Dutch Golden Age paintings, technologies are discovering new clues about the world's greatest art works.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe history of art is filled with lost masterpieces, paintings and artefacts that have been destroyed, altered or even painted over by the artist and discovered centuries later. After the devastating eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD, whole libraries of ancient scrolls were turned to charcoal and are now too fragile to be unrolled. One of Rembrandt's greatest masterpieces, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20190214-does-rembrandts-the-night-watch-reveal-a-murder-plot\"\u003EThe Night Watch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (1642), had panels chopped off each side in order to fit through the door of Amsterdam's Town Hall, where it was installed in 1715. We have long accepted that works such as these might never be known to us, but in recent years this assumption has been upended.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-       \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20190214-does-rembrandts-the-night-watch-reveal-a-murder-plot\"\u003EDoes The Night Watch reveal a murder plot?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-       \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20180314-the-secrets-of-girl-with-a-pearl-earring\"\u003EThe secrets of Girl with a Pearl Earring\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-       \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-how-fear-sex-and-power-shaped-ancient-mythology\"\u003EHow fear shaped ancient mythology\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Ftags\u002Fartificialintelligence\"\u003EAI\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Ftags\u002Fartificialintelligence\"\u003Emachine learning\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, has been woven into the rest of our daily lives, it's now taking a shot at resurrecting precious cultural artefacts once lost to the passage of time. For most of history it was not unusual for an artist to reuse canvases, which could be hard to come by. One project that has grabbed headlines in recent years, led by two science PhD students George Cann and Anthony Bourached, working under the name \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oxia-palus.com\u002Fresearch\"\u003EOxia Palus\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, has attempted to resurrect some of the works that are now known to us only through X-rays. Their AI-rendered images (the first was made public in 2019) aim to give back an idea of the lost painting's original colour and texture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It would be amazing to see all these masterpieces, which exist but that you'll never see because nobody is going to get a chisel out and scrape off part of a multi-million-pound painting – Anthony Bourached","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn one example, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhyperallergic.com\u002F654555\u002Foxia-palus-technology-reveals-hidden-modigliani-portrait\u002F\"\u003EModigliani's Portrait of a Girl\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (c 1917), they have brought into the light a woman that the artist once attempted to conceal. She is believed to be the English writer Beatrice Hastings, an ex-lover with whom he had a notoriously stormy relationship. He may well have tried to erase her memory once their affair ended in 1916 (although several portraits of her do survive).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe two researchers have converted their reconstructions into 3D prints that are being sold under the name NeoMasters. \"I think these have interested people because they like things that are new,\" Bourached tells BBC Culture. \"It would be amazing to see all these masterpieces, which exist but that you'll never see because nobody is going to get a chisel out and scrape off part of a multi-million-pound painting.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chmbrq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Modigliani's Portrait of a Girl","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe pair are wary, however, that news headlines can oversimplify their work. \"The story that grabs attention is 'AI reconstructs a painting', as if there's a button that we press and the whole process is done,\" says Bourached. This can give the impression that scientists are handing over complete authority to machines when, in fact, he says, \"there's lots of human input along the way\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe human contribution includes gathering a dataset of works by the artist for the machine to learn their style and cleaning up the X-ray image to remove elements from the surface painting. The resulting X-ray images are \"very much our interpretation of what's underneath,\" Cann tells BBC Culture. The pair describe it as a \"sloppy process\", just an experiment produced in their spare time with no funding. \"One of the points we want to make is that, even with a relatively naive approach, this is what can be done,\" adds Bourached. \"I'm hoping that other people will take this nascent field and do better things with it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBringing art and science together\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne barrier they came up against was the limited information provided by traditional X-rays, which were first used on paintings in the 19th Century. Conservators also take samples from the canvas to find out more about materials, pigments and possible damage but newer scanning technologies allow them to get all this information without touching the work.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFive years ago, the National Gallery in London acquired new state-of-the-art scanning equipment capable of capturing so much data about a single painting that most cultural organisations are poorly equipped to make much use of it. Some are now initiating cross-sector collaborations with universities that can offer superior computing facilities and broader expertise. As part of a recent partnership with University College London and Imperial College London, called Art Through the ICT Lens, or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fart-ict.github.io\u002Fartict\u002Findex.html\"\u003EARTICT\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the National Gallery has been producing much clearer images of Francisco de Goya's Doña Isabel de Porcel (c 1805), a fashionable young woman wearing a black \u003Cem\u003Emantilla \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(scarf). In 1980, a mysterious second portrait of a man in a waistcoat and jacket was discovered underneath. Getting a clearer image of the man has meant combining multiple scans from different regions of the electromagnetic spectrum, some of which reveal certain aspects of the painting better than others. At first, this process had to be done manually but thanks to this new research, it has now been handed over to a computer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chmb2c"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Goya, Doña Isabel de Porcel","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe UCL researchers, led by Dr Miguel Rodrigues, had previously worked on a similar project for the restoration of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20210428-the-ghent-altarpiece-an-unlikely-fruit-meaning-original-sin\"\u003EVan Eyck's Ghent Altarpiece\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (1432). The large-scale work is made up of many panels, some of which are double-sided so that it can be opened and closed. The exterior panels, showing the annunciation and a row of patrons and saints, were visible most of the year, but the altarpiece would be opened to reveal other religious figures and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20200201-is-this-the-first-view-of-god-the-father-in-art\"\u003Ethe Adoration of the Mystic Lamb\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on special feast days. The double-sided panels have produced layered X-rays that are particularly tricky to interpret, a problem for conservators hoping to study different layers of the painting. The algorithm developed by Rodrigues and his team managed to separate them into two distinct images.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chljtp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Jan Van Eyck, The Ghent Altarpiece restoration detail","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAchieving this with the murky X-rays of the Goya is a bigger challenge, as the researchers did not already have an idea of what the painting underneath should look like. Instead, they mixed up X-rays of other paintings to see if the algorithm could learn to separate them. In this case, the algorithm is known as a \"black box\", meaning it may produce good results but it is not always clear how. To try and understand this better, the team looked at outputs from different points in the learning process and experimented with how feeding the machine data in different ways might improve the output.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"One of the things that is particularly difficult to work out is what is good and what is better,\" Catherine Higgitt, Principal Scientific Officer at the National Gallery, tells BBC Culture. \"We're separating an image into two hypothetical images, but what is it we're trying to get? Is that something useful to a conservator – interested in damage, cracks and subsurface details – or something that looks as close to the image at the surface as possible?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The algorithms are not in and of themselves answering a question. They're feeding into a process – Catherine Higgitt","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EQuestions like these demonstrate the strength in collaboration between computer scientists and art experts, who guide the research in a useful direction. Everyone I speak to emphasises that humans are working closely with AI, not leaving it to its own devices. \"The algorithms are not in and of themselves answering a question. They're feeding into a process,\" says Higgitt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome scholars have disputed whether the Goya portrait has been correctly attributed to the artist. \"Understanding the lower portrait may help to more securely say whether it's by Goya or from the right period, even if we can't absolutely say which hand is involved,\" says Higgitt. For example, an art historian might hope to determine what the man beneath is wearing and what materials were used. So far, a much clearer sense of the man's face has been separated from the neck and headdress of the woman, revealing a serious expression beneath a set of dark eyebrows.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Conservation has always applied the available technology to the treatment of pictures,\" says Larry Keith, Head of Conservation at the National Gallery. \"It's not such a huge shift to look at technical advances now. It's part of the continuum going back at least 150 years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E'Unwrapping' ancient scrolls\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe hope is to produce a tool that will be applicable to other research problems across the heritage sector. Another promising development has been the scanning and \"virtual unwrapping\" of ancient scrolls that are far too delicate to be opened invasively. In this case CAT scans, generally used in medical contexts, combine X-ray images taken at different angles and can provide cross-sectional images of a scroll. A team at the University of Kentucky in the US are working on papyri scrolls found at Herculaneum and carbonised by Vesuvius.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESections of papyrus from the scans have been isolated in segments, which are then flattened and merged together, a process that is currently being done manually. Hopes that the metallic elements in the ink would show up in scans were frustrated, as the scroll's writers appear to have used carbon ink. Instead, the team made proxy rolled-up manuscripts using this ink and taught an algorithm to predict where it lies on the scans. The technique is still being perfected, but the team are in the initial stages of applying this to the virtually unwrapped Herculaneum scrolls, left unread since antiquity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chljff"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Papyri scrolls","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the 19th Century, a few scrolls were prised open by machines, offering a hint of what lay in wait. These were found to contain ancient Greek and Latin texts relating to Epicurean philosophy, predominantly by the poet \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20190705-the-beautiful-ancient-house-discovered-in-the-ashes\"\u003EPhilodemus\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Papyrologist and computer scientist James Brusuelas suggests that they may be the earliest surviving copies. Many classical texts are known to us today from medieval versions, but, according to Brusuelas, \"when doing things by hand, people make mistakes and Romans didn't necessarily think it was a terrible idea to make changes\". If we can read the scrolls, we might get one step closer to what the great philosophers actually wrote. \"I think the odds are fairly high that we could get something new, possibly even something we've never heard of before,\" he adds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile some of these research efforts are able to tell us what still exists but is hidden, others hope to infer what has been lost. In 2021, the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam invited the public to see an AI reconstruction of the lost panels from Rembrandt's The Night Watch. Before it was sliced up, the complete work was, luckily, copied by another artist Gerrit Lundens. The details that were lost are thankfully small, but in the complete version the captain, dressed in black and giving commands to the surrounding civic guardsmen, isn't standing at the centre but instead is further to the right\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is not like teaching a computer to write in the style of Shakespeare. That involves inventiveness and creativity and knowing what it's like to be human. This is more like a translation engine – Rob Erdmann","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe reconstruction was complicated by the many differences between the two works. \"There are changes in the palette and style, and Lundens' copy is less than 20% of full scale\", says the Rijksmuseum's senior scientist Rob Erdmann, who also notes that the copy is on panel whereas Rembrandt's is on canvas. His mission has been to reverse these effects by teaching the algorithm to convert Lundens' style into Rembrandt's. \"For example, the \u003Cem\u003Echiaroscuro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E lighting that he's well known for or the notion that his faces glow,\" he says. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The network even mimics the craquelure [tiny cracks] in the paint so I would say it's as scientific as it can be. Which is not to say it's perfect; technology will always improve.\" Erdmann adds, \"this is not like teaching a computer to write in the style of Shakespeare. That involves inventiveness and creativity and knowing what it's like to be human. This is more like a translation engine.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chmbjp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Night Watch","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENonetheless, there has been pushback on projects like these as some have questioned what claims to accuracy are being made or whether they have any value. One initiative by Google Arts & Culture to recolour Klimt's Faculty Paintings, which were destroyed in a fire and are known only through black-and-white photographs, is thought by some critics to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wsj.com\u002Farticles\u002Fklimt-vs-klimt-the-man-of-contradictions-google-arts-and-culture-gustav-klimt-art-nouveau-the-kiss-faculty-paintings-machine-learning-11636583036\"\u003Eexhibit excessive artistic licence\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and reduce the works to \"cartoons\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWorking already to correct for Lundens' own artistic flair, Erdmann has aimed to limit human aesthetic input, and though the final reconstructed image was approved by expert curators, it was chosen by the algorithm, not hand-picked by the experts from an array of options. \"What we were trying to do here is not say that this is definitively what the missing pieces would have looked like,\" Erdmann says. \"Rather, when the pieces were cut off it altered the composition in a meaningful way and we want the public to be able to temporarily suspend disbelief, in the same way as a good novel or movie asks you to suspend disbelief.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Facsimile helps people engage with the content or original appearance of works of art,\" says Keith. He recalls visiting exhibitions decades ago that used projectors to similar ends. An even earlier example from the National Gallery is Francesco Pesellino's Pistoia Santa Trinità altarpiece, which was taken apart in 1793. When it was reassembled after being gradually acquired by the gallery, a missing section was repainted in order to complete the composition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Now we have the ability to more convincingly reproduce missing constituents, it provides more curatorial opportunities to think about interpretation,\" says Keith. \"The question about how to present a picture remains unchanged, there's just new technology brought to bear on it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EProjects like these, which are upfront about their methods and clear about where the known work ends and the human or computer's interpretation begins, offer the opportunity for us to explore how a lost masterpiece might once have looked. These efforts are part of a long tradition of historical reconstructions, but in recent years they have been created and often experienced digitally, avoiding any need to alter the surviving work. The best attempts are openly inconclusive, acting primarily as a starting point for our own imaginations to fill in the blanks. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed-16"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fcolumn\u002Fart"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-29T00:30:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The hidden images found in masterpieces","headlineShort":"The hidden images found in masterpieces","image":["p0chlj8l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Lonesome Crouching Nude","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From ancient scrolls to Dutch Golden Age paintings, technologies are discovering new clues about the world's greatest art works.","summaryShort":"How technology can help uncover art's mysteries","tag":["tag\u002Fart-history"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-28T23:30:03.031165Z","entity":"article","guid":"e42104e7-7eb2-4f67-917e-cd78458c5178","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-29T16:04:11.848106Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-lost-masterpieces-being-revealed","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679331},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song","_id":"62ba36bb1f4b7b085f6f8fec","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fdiane-bernard"],"bodyIntro":"Today we take them for granted, but in the 1960s interracial duets were almost unheard of. Diane Bernard explores the forgotten story of Storybook Children, the taboo-busting song that became a hit.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn May of 1968, just a few weeks after Martin Luther King Jr's assassination, singing duo Billy Vera and Judy Clay entered the Apollo Theater in Harlem, then an all-black neighbourhood of New York. Vera had teamed up with gospel-and-soul diva Clay to sing their new hit love song, Storybook Children. When Apollo announcer Honi Coles saw the couple, he said to Billy Vera, \"The Apollo hasn't seen \u003Cem\u003Eyou\u003C\u002Fem\u003E before,\" Vera tells BBC Culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley\"\u003EWho was the real Elvis Presley?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-inside-kate-bushs-alternate-universe\"\u003EInside Kate Bush's alternate world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-the-music-most-embedded-in-our-psyches\"\u003EThe music embedded in our psyches\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EEver the showman, Coles told the couple to stand on opposite ends of the Apollo's storied stage. Judy came out first on the right, her floor-length cream-coloured gown shimmering under a spotlight. Then, the left spotlight shone on Vera as he stepped forward in an olive-green mohair suit and tie. When the audience saw the young white man, the entire auditorium gasped in shock. \"That's \u003Cem\u003Ehim\u003C\u002Fem\u003E? That skinny little white boy?\" Vera overheard someone in the crowd say. A major hit in the New York area, no one knew the male lead on Storybook Children was white. The couple burst into the song, serenading each other with powerful harmonies, building a gritty, emotional surge of heartrending longing: \"Why can't we be\u002F Like Storybook Children\u002F Runnin' through the rain\u002F Hand in hand\u002F Across the meadow?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chfkrp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Clay and Vera on stage","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"On stage they were electric,\" says blues singer Mabel John, who was on the same bill at the Apollo that week, and saw the duo's live performances: \"This being the first black woman and white guy teaming up together and singing at the Apollo – and they're not just making noise, they are making music. And the people stood to their feet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWith rioting surrounding Martin Luther King Jr's assassination still raging across the Hudson River in Newark, New Jersey, music history was being made in Harlem. America's first interracial singing duo to hit the Billboard charts was singing live for the very first time, playing five shows a day for seven days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"It was groundbreaking,\" says Vera, who became an R&B historian, winning a Grammy for writing liner notes to a Ray Charles CD box set. \"America was just on the verge of being ready for an interracial duo singing love songs – but they weren't quite there yet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBut for that night, and many others that week, Vera and Clay could hardly get off the stage, there were so many calls for encores, John says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAfter one of those sets, \"we finally came offstage and I saw [gospel great] Cissy Houston, Judy's adoptive aunt, with tears running down her cheeks, holding four-year-old Whitney,\" Vera says. They were so proud.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EVera and Clay released their single and album just three months after the 1967 US Supreme Court case Loving v Virginia, which legalised interracial marriage. Yet, few know of their accomplishment. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flovingday.org\u002F\"\u003ELoving Day\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an international holiday celebrating interracial love, which marks that case,  was earlier this month, also coinciding with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnationaltoday.com\u002Fafrican-american-music-appreciation-month\u002F\"\u003EAfrican American Music Month\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the US, and Vera and Clay's album represents a pioneering development in America's social and musical history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chfmkc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Clay and Vera backstage","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EToday, musical duos of different ethnicities are a usual part of the pop cultural landscape, but in the autumn of 1967, when the duo's album, also called Storybook Children, was released, it was a shock to see a white man and a black woman on an album cover, and singing a love song. Vera wrote the single, Storybook Children with songwriting legend Chip Taylor, who penned Angel of the Morning, Wild Thing and I Can't Let Go by The Hollies, among other hits. Taylor says the song was first inspired by seeing two children, a white boy and a black girl, holding hands walking through an open field in an area outside New York City. \"It was a time when that wasn't so acceptable and it was such a nice feeling, like a storybook,\" he tells BBC Culture. He says he couldn't wait to get into the city to write about them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"[These songs] help to surface histories of cross-racial connections that are not necessarily part of official histories – Gayle Wald","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EVera says after they finished writing the song, it actually became a song about adultery, although it was first inspired by a glimpse at the potential for race relations to heal. At the time, Taylor and Vera didn't necessarily seek out a black singer for the duet. They tried out several women, black and white, but no one blended well with Vera's voice. Then Vera turned to Atlantic Records producer, Jerry Wexler, who was in Memphis working with Aretha Franklin at the time, for advice. Wexler recommended a gospel soul powerhouse, Judy Clay, who was signed to Atlantic, but hadn't had much success on her own. In an audition, Clay's dynamic singing and Vera's smooth soul sound blended together perfectly. They recorded the song Storybook Children, and the album by the same name, in September 1967.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWith widespread radio airplay in New York City and surrounding East Coast areas, Storybook Children shot up the charts, and reached number 20 on the US R&B charts and 54 on the pop charts. It also reached number one on black stations in the city and number three on white stations, Vera says. \"Our audience was mainly middle-class black people and working-class white people,\" he adds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe duo was clearly in the vanguard. In 1967, when miscegenation laws were overturned in the US, just 3% of all newlyweds in the country were \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pewresearch.org\u002Fsocial-trends\u002F2017\u002F05\u002F18\u002Fintermarriage-in-the-u-s-50-years-after-loving-v-virginia\u002F\"\u003Emarried to someone of a different race\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or ethnicity, according to the Pew Research Center. Since then, intermarriage rates in the US have climbed, the centre reports, and by 2015 they stood at 17%. \"[Storybook Children] was radical,\" says Gayle Wald, historian and author of the 2006 biography, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fshoutsistershout.net\u002F\"\u003EShout, Sister, Shout!\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: The Untold Story of Rock-and-Roll Trailblazer Sister Rosetta Tharpe. \"It represented a hopeful narrative of some kind of attenuation of racism: it was a material enactment of King's hope for a beloved community.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chfkyt"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Clay and Vera","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBut Vera says the pair's influence was muted at the time. Music and television executives warned him the duo wouldn't get much TV airtime because Southern stations might lose sponsors if they showed a white man singing with a black woman on local television, especially a love song. The pair did however appear on one TV show in Detroit and a live show in Pittsburgh in the autumn of 1967 and winter of 1968 – as the song continued to rise on the charts. \"We also taped a TV show in New York with disc jockey Clay Cole, but they never aired our segment,\" Vera says. Some have said it was because we were an interracial couple, but we'll never know for sure, he adds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAnother impediment to their rise in pop stardom was that Judy Clay became pregnant at the time of the song's release, and so wasn't able to tour. Seeing the album cover, a close-up of a white man in a brown mohair suit standing behind an attractive black woman in a blue gown and large hoop earrings, cocking her head to one side, must have come as a surprise to the record-buying public. Yet, famed Colony Records on Broadway and 51st Street featured an entire window of the album cover, Vera says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECrossing boundaries\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EVera and Clay weren't the very first interracial duo to release a song together, however. In 1952, R&B guitarist and singer Sister Rosetta Tharpe teamed up with white country artist Red Foley to record the Christian-themed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmusic.si.edu\u002Fobject\u002Fnmaahc_2014.98.4ab\"\u003EHave a Little Talk with Jesus\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Decca Records, according to Wald's book. The song was released as a B-side and didn't get much public attention. However, \"the Tharpe\u002FFoley duet was profound,\" Wald tells BBC Culture. \"It shook up everything by crossing boundaries that had not been crossed before,\" she adds, especially in light of the US's miscegenation laws against interracial relationships. In many Southern states, what Tharpe and Foley did was so taboo it might have been considered illegal by some.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFrank Sinatra and Ella Fitzgerald had sung duets together, especially on Sinatra's TV shows in later the 1950s. But no interracial duo had recorded a record before Tharpe and Foley, Wald's research shows. \"It just runs against so many of the social and musical conventions of the time,\" US music historian Peter Guralnick tells BBC Culture.\"Storybook Children and Just a Little Talk with Jesus help to surface histories of cross-racial connections that are not necessarily part of official histories,\" says Wald. \"They help us understand American social and cultural life more fully.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chfmnx"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Appollo 1967","imageOrientation":"square","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAfter Storybook Children in 1967, the music industry began seeing more and more interracial duo releases. \"This was a time when pop music was starting to integrate more, with bands like Sly and the Family Stone, Wild Cherry and the Ohio Players just getting their start,\" Vera points out. \"But there's a difference between a big group integration and a couple singing a love song – there were all these taboos around interracial sex.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn 1976, mixed-race couple Leon and Mary Russell released The Wedding Album, and later that year the couple performed the single Satisfy You on national TV show Saturday Night Live, showing wider acceptance of integrated singers both in the music business and the culture at large.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAfter Rick James's hits with white soul singer Teena Marie in the 1980s, many more interracial duos recorded hits, from Al Green and Annie Lennox's 1988 Put a Little Love in Your Heart to 1998's If I Told You That by Whitney Houston and George Michael, with Houston following a trail blazed by her adoptive cousin, Clay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EUnfortunately, Storybook Children did not experience the widespread success of these later recordings. Part of that was timing: \"The culture was shifting more towards hippy influences and we were sort of old-school soul, even then,\" Vera says. \"We weren't wearing long hair and bell bottoms – we dressed like old rhythm and blues artists.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThen, a distribution deal between Atlantic and Stax records that allowed Clay and Vera to record together ended, and the labels chose not to renew the relationship. \"So Judy and I were no longer contractually allowed to sing or record together,\" Vera says. The next year, Clay was released from her Stax contract for the pair to record the country-tinged soul song Country Girl, City Man, which became another hit for the duo. When the Apollo asked the pair to return after the success of Country Girl, City Man, Clay refused, demanding more money. They never returned to the Apollo stage. Vera says Clay had developed a resentment grown out of frustration. Originally from gospel royalty, Clay grew up in North Carolina and in the late 1950s at just 14 years old, she moved up north to Newark, New Jersey. There, she joined New Hope Baptist Church, where music giant Dionne Warwick's mother, Lee Drinkard had formed her seminal gospel group the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsecondhandsongs.com\u002Fartist\u002F100015\"\u003EDrinkard Singers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"[Judy Clay's] contribution to the recording world and her performances should be recognised as something that was truly meaningful – Dionne Warwick","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"Being without parental guidance and on her own, my mother took her in to stay with our family,\" Warwick, who's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.express.co.uk\u002Fentertainment\u002Fmusic\u002F1587862\u002FDionne-Warwick-music-UK-tour-latest\"\u003Ecurrently on tour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the UK, tells BBC Culture. \"She was an integral part of the Drinkard Singers.\" Her vocal talent was \"incredible\", according to Warwick, \"and she was a fun person with a wonderful personality.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chfm06"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Clay and Vera outside Appollo","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAfter leaving the Drinkard Singers in the early 1960s, Clay recorded a few songs for Scepter Records, but they didn't chart. Meanwhile, the career of her adoptive sister, Dionne, was taking off. And other Drinkard Singers, including Cissy Houston, Dionne's aunt and Whitney Houston's mother, formed the Sweet Inspirations, singing backup on many Atlantic Records hits including the Storybook Children album. With her towering vocals, Clay wanted to be a star, too, Vera says. After Country Girl, City Man, Clay continued to sing back-up vocals for soul legends including Ray Charles, Wilson Pickett, Van Morrison and Aretha Franklin. She scored a hit with William Bell in 1970 with Private Number, which reached number eight in the UK singles charts, and did well in the US. But she never had the successful solo career she yearned for.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"Her contribution to the recording world with [Storybook Children] and her performances should be recognised as something that was truly meaningful,\" Warwick says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn 1979 after surgery for a brain tumor, Clay returned to her gospel roots. Then in 2001, she died in a car accident at age 62, never receiving the acclaim she deserved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EMore than 20 years after Storybook Children was released, in the 1980s, Billy Vera was producing albums for the Grammy award-winning soul singer, Lou Rawls. Rawls invited Vera along to an Apollo Theater event, and there they ran into legendary Harlem showman Ralph Cooper, who'd been affiliated with the Apollo since the 1930s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"He saw me and threw his arms around me,\" Vera says. \"He told me, 'your picture's in the lobby and will always be there.'\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"What you did was so important,\" he said. \"Welcome home.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song-14"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fcolumn\u002Fmusic"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-28T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The United States' first interracial love song","headlineShort":"The US' first interracial love song","image":["p0chflbh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Judy Clay and Billy Vera","promoImage":["p0chflbh"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":["tag\u002Fpop-music"],"summaryLong":"Today we take them for granted, but in the 1960s interracial duets were almost unheard of. Diane Bernard explores the forgotten story of the taboo-busting song, Storybook Children.","summaryShort":"How a taboo-busting duet became a hit and broke new ground","tag":["tag\u002Fpop-music"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-27T23:00:58.828507Z","entity":"article","guid":"584e259b-49f4-4612-bfc9-5d8eca45fe75","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-29T13:24:47.06178Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220627-the-uss-first-interracial-love-song","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679331},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda","_id":"62bce0be1f4b7b3e22338e8a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fdeborah-nicholls-lee"],"bodyIntro":"In 1917, pastoral scenes gave way to smoking chimneys and telegraph wires on porcelain manufactured by a factory in St Petersburg, writes Deborah Nicholls-Lee.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt is 1917 and in Russia the Bolsheviks have seized power, de-throning the Tsar and declaring a revolutionary communist regime that would transfer the means of production to the people. Within a year, the royal family and their entourage lie dead as imperialism is violently dismantled to make way for Russia's radical new future. But one important remnant of the old order remains: the Imperial Porcelain Manufactory (IPM) on the outskirts of the city now known as St Petersburg.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E - \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20170206-the-artists-who-fought-fascism\"\u003EHow a painting fought Fascism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E - \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20130703-can-propaganda-be-great-art\"\u003ECan propaganda be great art?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E - \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20180507-why-orwells-1984-could-be-about-now\"\u003EWhy Orwell's 1984 could be about now\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERenaming it the State Porcelain Manufactory, the Bolsheviks, under Vladimir Lenin, took control of this symbol of tsarist decadence, seeing surprising potential in it as a wheelhouse for artistic innovation and the production of propaganda. Stocks of unpainted, snow-white china became a tantalising canvas for avant-garde artists keen to express their utopian ideologies and rouse enthusiasm for the new socialist era, giving this delicate, bourgeois material an unexpected, almost contradictory, second life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chtxw6"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe IMP hallmark was scratched out or painted over and replaced with a cog (denoting industry and the worker's part of a greater whole) and a sickle and hammer, emblems that symbolised the union of worker and peasant and would feature on the Soviet Union's flag. Under the direction of artist and ceramicist Sergei Chekhonin, the motif would be integrated into many of the factory's designs, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sothebys.com\u002Fen\u002Fauctions\u002Fecatalogue\u002F2012\u002Frussian-art-n08844\u002Flot.142.html\"\u003Ehis own\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Increasing the country's productivity was at the heart of Leninist ideology and so it was that on this re-imagined porcelain, bold images of smoking chimneys, telegraph wires and tower blocks took the place of the pastoral scenes and intricate gilded heraldry the factory was once known for. They appear in a book published to accompany the broadest exhibition of the revolutionary porcelain story ever staged outside Russia, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdutchmuseumgiftshop.nl\u002Fthemes\u002Frussian-avant-garde-revolution-in-the-arts\u002F\"\u003ERussian Avant-Garde – Revolution in the Arts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which opened at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhermitage.nl\u002Fnl\u002F\"\u003EAmsterdam branch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hermitagemuseum.org\u002Fwps\u002Fportal\u002Fhermitage\"\u003EHermitage Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in January, but closed when the Russian invasion of Ukraine led the museum to cut ties with St Petersburg.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAgitation porcelain, as it became known, featured \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fd1inegp6v2yuxm.cloudfront.net\u002Froyal-academy\u002Fimage\u002Fupload\u002Fc_limit,cs_tinysrgb,dn_72,f_auto,fl_progressive.keep_iptc,w_1200\u002Fsssf2i9embwy7jgvq32s.jpg\"\u003Eeffigies of Lenin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and was decorated with calls to action. Its creators hoped to galvanise the proletariat, whose idealised hand-painted image also rolled off the − rather slow − production line. Emancipated workers now took centre stage, often as noble engines of industry, striding towards a radiant future, as seen in the plates of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmedia.britishmuseum.org\u002Fmedia\u002FRepository\u002FDocuments\u002F2014_10\u002F11_22\u002F9ed9cc45_d1b7_44c1_bdbf_a3c1016e0612\u002Fmid_00708523_001.jpg\"\u003EMikhail Adamovich\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (1921) and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.christies.com\u002Fen\u002Flot\u002Flot-6145496\"\u003EAnton Komashka\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (1923), or peasants jubilantly taking up arms, as in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sothebys.com\u002Fen\u002Fauctions\u002Fecatalogue\u002F2007\u002Frussian-pictures-works-of-art-and-icons-w07730\u002Flot.304.html\"\u003ENatalia Danko's 1922 figurine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chty8d"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn a curious twist, crockery once intended for the lavish feasts of the Romanovs was now emblazoned with militant Reds \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fp1.liveauctioneers.com\u002F241\u002F22852\u002F8015886_1_x.jpg?quality=80&version=1287769286\"\u003Etrampling upon their white ermine furs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Adamovich, 1923). Danko's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.christies.com\u002Fen\u002Flot\u002Flot-5327788\"\u003Eporcelain chess set\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (1923) used the same colour play, with a red army taking on a white skeleton king whose proletariat pawns are in chains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the porcelain plates' blocky constructivist artwork conveyed energy, explosions and destruction, the requisitioning of the factory was part of a softer approach to demonstrate the communists' respect for Russian patrimony, and ingratiate the precarious new regime with the powerful upper-middle classes whose support they depended on in order to govern. ''The main reason for the Bolsheviks to maintain the porcelain factory was the preservation of cultural heritage,'' historian and guest curator of the Hermitage exhibition, Dr Sjeng Scheijen, tells BBC Culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECultural currency\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe factory recruited the most visionary artists of their time, members of the Russian Avant-Garde such as Wassily Kandinsky and the suprematist Kazimir Malevich, whose abstract, geometric work – where feelings trumped figurativism – expressed a revolutionary artistic idiom that befitted the new regime. For the Avant-Garde, art had a role to play in every aspect of that new order, and they brought their unique style to diverse realms such as theatre, music, film and architecture. Ceramics were no different, and they were doubtless grateful for the regular income and prestigious connections the factory afforded during the harsh post-war period when famine, civil war and disease devastated so many Russian lives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chtyn4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAbove all, the artists were excited to experiment. ''Most of the time the artists were just looking at the forms and how they could integrate their own extremely revolutionary, abstract language that they had developed, into these particular forms,'' says Scheijen. Alexander Samokhvalov's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fi.pinimg.com\u002F564x\u002Fd4\u002Fab\u002F80\u002Fd4ab8004d4d915e562a092f531a840b1.jpg\"\u003EThe Seamstress\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E(1923) is a case in point. He makes the plate's circular shape part of the design, while the central composition, a dressmaker in her studio, echoes the geometric motifs of the plate's decorative border. ''They were real, independent artworks,'' adds Scheijen. ''If you only look at them from a utilitarian aspect, either as a [table] service or as a service to the state, you do them an injustice.''\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe creations were indeed far from commercial. ''They were too rare, too experimental,'' Birgit Boelens of the Hermitage Amsterdam tells BBC Culture. ''The individual pieces are of such a high quality that it took too long to mass produce them.'' Sets such as Malevich's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdyn1.heritagestatic.com\u002Flf?set=path%5B1%2F3%2F6%2F0%2F5%2F13605809%5D%2Csizedata%5B850x600%5D&call=url%5Bfile%3Aproduct.chain%5D\"\u003Ehalf-moon cups and chunky teapots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003Ewere too clumsy and outré for 1920s society and destined only for display, as were the hand-painted plates and jugs, whose delicate brushwork could not withstand regular use.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Despite the porcelain's revolutionary messages, the working people had very little contact with it, and for the most part it remained in the hands of wealthy collectors","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, despite the porcelain's revolutionary messages, the working people had very little contact with it, and for the most part it remained in the hands of wealthy collectors. Even the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fantiqueref.com\u002Findex.php\u002Fsoviet-porcelain\u002Frudolf-vilde\u002Fsoviet-porcelain-plate-help-the-hungry-by-vilde\u002F\"\u003Edesigns\u003C\u002Fa\u003E intended to raise money for the famine in the Volga region in the early 20s never made it to auction. Instead, pieces were showcased in European exhibitions, such as the 1925 \u003Cem\u003EExposition Universelle\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Paris, where Russian porcelain designers were awarded a gold medal. As models of artistic ingenuity, the pieces were extraordinary. As tools of propaganda, they were unavoidably flawed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the late 20s, when Joseph Stalin had ascended to power, rooted out all opposition and established a dictatorship, the use of art as a vehicle for propaganda only intensified, propping up a brutal regime with saccharine images of the leader surrounded by adoring children and merry communist youth brigades. Socialist realism was born, but it was inevitably inauthentic and prosaic. The requirement that all art be educational and popular had stifled artistic endeavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chtz0y"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E''Everything really changes in the beginning of the 30s when artists themselves come under real pressure because there is no independent artistry any more,'' explains Scheijen. ''If you are not part of a union, you can be seen as a parasite and be sent to a camp… If you would not completely conform, then you had a big problem.'' Art had lost its verve. \"You see how a great artistic culture dies because of the pressure,'' says Scheijen. ''When you go to the depositories of museums for the late 30s, it's really depressing.''\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EForced famine, mass incarceration and summary executions had left the utopian vision of 1917 in tatters. Socialism had failed and revolutionary art had done nothing to better the lives of the poor. For Boelens, the survival of these highly prized porcelain pieces and the fact that they are now enjoyed by so many is nevertheless testimony to the importance and success of their art. \"We appreciate these pieces so much,'' she says. ''The positive thing about this exhibition is we gave them, after all these years, a voice.''\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was a unique phenomenon and so the fact that it happened gives us something to celebrate,'' agrees Scheijen. ''Imagine if the Wedgewood factory employed Picasso, Matisse, Kandinsky and all the great modernists at the same time and let them do whatever they wanted? That's an amazing thing, and it only happened there.''\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThe Hermitage Museum's book Russian Avant-Garde – Revolution in the Arts is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdutchmuseumgiftshop.nl\u002Fthemes\u002Frussian-avant-garde-revolution-in-the-arts\u002F\"\u003Eavailable for international order\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda-10"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fcolumn\u002Fart"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-30T08:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"How teapots were used to spread Russian propaganda","headlineShort":"How teapots spread Russian propaganda","image":["p0chtzl3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":["tag\u002Fart-history"],"summaryLong":"In 1917, pastoral scenes gave way to smoking chimneys and telegraph wires on porcelain manufactured by a factory in St Petersburg, writes Deborah Nicholls-Lee.","summaryShort":"A surprising source of radical art","tag":["tag\u002Fart-history"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-29T23:30:51.984161Z","entity":"article","guid":"5e1ea9ef-04ea-4739-9892-650692e66c34","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-30T14:26:06.328402Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220629-how-teapots-were-used-to-spread-russian-propaganda","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679331},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley","_id":"62b8e5051f4b7b3e2327ef84","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fkaleem-aftab"],"bodyIntro":"How does the portrayal of 'The King' in Baz Luhrmann's new biopic compare to the reality? Kaleem Aftab explores the complex debate around Presley, civil rights and cultural appropriation, or assimilation.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220526-elvis-review-a-hyperactive-sensory-overload\"\u003EBaz Luhrmann's Elvis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which was released last week, is an immensely entertaining look at the life and times of Elvis Presley, made with all the razzmatazz and whiplash-inducing camera pans that one would expect from the acclaimed director of Romeo + Juliet and Moulin Rouge. The story is narrated from the perspective of Elvis's manager Colonel Tom Parker, played by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20210208-is-tom-hanks-part-of-a-dying-breed-of-genuine-movie-stars\"\u003ETom Hanks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Parker is portrayed as an unreliable narrator, who helped Elvis go from a poor background to become the \"King of rock 'n' roll\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220526-elvis-review-a-hyperactive-sensory-overload\"\u003E'A hyperactive sensory overload'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-inside-kate-bushs-alternate-universe\"\u003EInside Kate Bush's alternate world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-the-music-most-embedded-in-our-psyches\"\u003EThe music embedded in our psyches\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHanks's Parker is a savvy businessman who, alongside Sam Phillips (Josh McConville) of Sun Records, sees in Elvis a musician who can bring rock 'n' roll, a sound developing in black underground clubs, to the mainstream US. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWarning: This article contains language some readers may find offensive\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELuhrmann shows how Elvis turned songs – including Hound Dog, initially performed by Big Mama Thornton, and Arthur \"Big Boy\" Crudup's blues classic That's All Right – into Billboard chart hits. Elvis was renowned as a white singer who \"sounded black\". Commentators at the time said that he \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheconversation.com\u002Fchampion-or-copycat-elvis-presleys-ambiguous-relationship-with-black-america-82293\"\u003Eborrowed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E some of his infamous performance techniques from black musicians; his gyrating hips became the talk of the nation earning him the nickname \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fmusic\u002F2011\u002Fjun\u002F11\u002Felvis-presley-pelvis\"\u003EElvis the Pelvis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgy9bf"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Elvis still","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAustin Butler uncannily emulates Presley in a performance likely to make the actor a household name. The film portrays the singer's meteoric rise, and shows Parker taking half of his earnings, and being prompt to head off any potential problems. When there is a furore about Presley's hip movements, he cajoles the musician into creating a more family-friendly performing style. When Elvis wants to go on an international tour, it's Parker who lines up the legendary Las Vegas residency. Presley's frustrations are sated by his bank balance, even as he famously puts on weight, and his star begins to wane. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe biopic veers away from delving into Elvis's relationship with Priscilla Presley, focussing on his career and, interestingly, his relationship with the black community. Elvis was born impoverished, and grew up in the mostly black neighbourhood of Tupelo, Mississippi. He grew up around black people, and by the time he moved to Memphis, Tennessee, he was such a big fan of black music that he covered the songs he heard. He was friends with the blues singer songwriter BB King, played in the film by Kelvin Harrison Jr. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWithin this framework, the film claims that Elvis was instrumental in helping black people get equal rights in the US. It does this through Parker's narration, who acts as a mouthpiece for an idea formulated by Michael T Bertrand in his book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.press.uillinois.edu\u002Fbooks\u002F?id=p072703\"\u003ERace, Rock and Elvis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Bertrand contends that by singing songs hitherto attributed to black musicians, Elvis helped white southerners rethink their attitude to race, leading to an unacknowledged (well, at least until Luhrmann's film) impetus for white people to support the civil rights movement. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Elvis represented a generation that came up at a time when there was a lot of change going on in the South,\" Bertrand, who is also a professor of history at Tennessee State University, tells BBC Culture. \"One of the changes was to do with the evolution of black radio programming, and in the late 1940s teenagers like Elvis were tuning in [which gave them] a different type of perspective concerning race within a segregated society. As Elvis gets older, he has an appreciation of African-American culture and was drawn to black music in a way his grandparents would not have been. As he became popular, Elvis showed that it was 'okay' [for white people] to appreciate black culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Elvis and his peers in the South are the first white kids consuming rhythm and blues. That's a breakthrough, and there were huge ramifications in that,\" adds the author. In his view, rock 'n' roll and Elvis \"introduced a larger audience and a larger group of people to a culture that had been behind the veil of segregation. It opened up society in a positive way\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EElvis's contribution was through his actions rather than any big public statement, Bertrand believes. \"I don't think Elvis was political in the sense that he would go on marches and things like that. These musicians were worried about their careers first and did not make political statements. They made their statements with their choice of music. In the context of the segregation they lived under, that was a major statement. In the 50s, many rhythm and blues artists said they were happy Elvis opened doors because the music became accessible. The problem was that because he was white, he had accessibility to venues that some of his colleagues and contemporaries did not.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgrcl7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Elvis still","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut equally, other commentators have seen Elvis as a problematic figure regarding race, with accusations that he has appropriated black music, and some even going so far to state that he's a racist. An infamous and damning comment about Elvis regarding race can be found in Public Enemy's Fight the Power, a song written for Spike Lee's seminal film, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt0097216\u002F\"\u003EDo the Right Thing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in 1989. It contains the rap, \"Elvis was a hero to most, but he never meant shit to me. Straight up racist that sucker was simple and plain.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A lot of the history of pop is the history of black innovation being stolen by the white music business – Neil Kulkarni","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a shocking statement for many. The legend is that Elvis invented rock 'n' roll, and changed the soul of modern music. But here was Public Enemy's Chuck D, a popular black musician and lyricist, coming out against Elvis. Chuck D has been asked since to justify the lyrics on many occasions, and he's dialled back from this position that Elvis is \"straight-up racist\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever Chuck D has since put forward an argument that the exalted position of Elvis has come at the expense of black musicians, who have consequently not received their fair due. In Eugene Jarecki's 2017 documentary film The King , the Public Enemy lyricist argues, \"Sam Philips was a businessman. He tried to sell those records with black folks and couldn't. He found someone to sell a black sound to white face, he knew what to sell to America. That isn't a problem. Culture is to be shared. What I took offence to was that Elvis was no more of a king than Little Richard, Bo Diddley and Chuck Berry. So who is anointing him king?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor some, that makes Elvis the king of appropriation. Helen Kalowole's Guardian article \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fmusic\u002F2002\u002Faug\u002F15\u002Felvis25yearson.elvispresley\"\u003EHe Wasn't my King\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, argues that Presley's whiteness enabled him to get famous and rich by singing songs that went unheard when emanating from the black people who originated them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Michael Bertrand puts it: \"The appropriation thing will be an argument that follows [Elvis]. The music industry was extremely discriminatory. They understood that there were white and black teenagers listening to rhythm and blues, and they were looking for a white face to appeal to a wider audience and that was Presley. I think the industry is into appropriation and Elvis is into appreciation. When Elvis went into a recording studio, he didn’t write his own songs, he basically wanted to record everything on the radio that he liked.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The problem was that the music industry made him out to be the only rock 'n' roll figure. Elvis didn't think that, he appreciated black musicians. I run into a lot of people who like Elvis but have issues with how he was singled out when musicians such as Fats Domino, Little Richard and Chuck Berry made huge contributions.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgr5s7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Elvis at 2 years with parents","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChuck D suggests that the racism referenced in his rap lies elsewhere, in the systemic racism of the music industry, and that black culture is continually repackaged and sold to the public in a way that hides its black roots. \"I was persuaded that Elvis was another exploiter of black culture for white commercial gain by Chuck D,\" musicologist Neil Kulkarni, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguin.com.au\u002Fbooks\u002Fthe-periodic-table-of-hip-hop-9781473528406\"\u003EThe Periodic Table of Hip Hop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, tells BBC Culture. \"That line did make me think a lot about cultural appropriation. A lot of the history of pop is the history of black innovation being stolen by the white music business, cleaned out and packaged, and sold to white audiences. That's even true today. Whether Elvis was a racist or a civil rights hero, I think the truth is to be found in the middle.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBreaking barriers\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBroadcaster and journalist Jonathan Wingate visited Tupelo – where Elvis spent the first years of his life – for a programme for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb00pmdhv\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC Radio 5 Live\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"I spoke to a lot of people, one of whom was Sam Bell, his best friend until he left Tupelo, who told me that Elvis was not racist.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"White children could play with black children when they were small,\" music journalist Phil Sutcliffe tells BBC Culture. \"But then by convention and parental enforcement, they hit an age where they wouldn't be allowed to mix. That is the point where Elvis became remarkable because at that point, he didn't put up the barrier as convention would have dictated.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Elvis could not have existed without the blues… but whether you call that cultural appropriation, or just say it left an indelible influence on Elvis's style, is up for debate – Jonathan Wingate","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWingate tells BBC Culture, \"I think everything is about perception, and the cultural perception now is very different to what it was when Elvis first burst on to the spotlight. His relationship with African-American music is a complicated one.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When he first burst on to the airwaves, it was at the same time as all the campaigns against racial segregation in the American South were exploding everywhere. Elvis could not have existed without blues, rhythm and blues and gospel music. But whether you call that cultural appropriation – or just say it left an indelible influence on Elvis's style – is up for debate. I would just say he had impeccable taste.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgr5fs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Elvis still","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWingate can see how the film acclaims Elvis's role in the civil rights movement, even if he would not put it so boldly himself. \"A lot of America was segregated at the time, and you wonder how much that music would have been palatable to mainstream America at that point. Elvis somehow made things OK. I would say Elvis opened the doors to a lot of those artists.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWingate feels that Elvis did as much as was possible for him at the time. \"I don't think it's a surprise he didn't speak out,\" he says. \"My guess is that he wasn't politically aware… People like Tom Parker would not have let him do that as it would have been seen as too subversive.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When I teach my students,\" says Kulkarni, \"I show them two videos, Little Richard singing Tutti Frutti and Pat Boone singing the same song. Boone is your typical anodyne figure and that's the same old story of black innovation being marginalised and repackaged. Elvis is a somewhat more nuanced thing. The industry is always racist, but the artists themselves, that's more complex.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELe Gendre and Sutcliffe feel that having an impact is not enough to be exalted as a civil rights hero. \"I don't buy that at all,\" says Le Gendre. \"I think if you really want to contribute to civil rights, you should get on the front line and march. This is what was happening and needed at the time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"He did some support anonymously,\" says Kulkarni, \"that's great. It's a shame that such a huge figure couldn't be more supportive. I'm dubious about his role in the civil rights movement. The industry has a long history of finding white faces to repackage black faces for the mainstream, which still happens today. The use of black music with a white face is just how commerce works,\" argues Le Gendre. \"It's designed for people to have a good time, spend money, dance. They then go home. They don't go on marches or try to change America.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgr5dw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Elvis and Brook Benton","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat's not to say Presley didn't do anything – he did show support for black artists and causes. For instance, he attended the 1956 Goodwill Revue in Memphis, the WDIA radio station's annual benefit concert to help the city's deprived children. The all-black line-up featured the likes of BB King and other big stars of the era. Though Presley's record contract did not allow him to perform, he supported from the wings. And when invited on stage, he greeted the screaming crowds with a trademark rebellious twist of his hip. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flithub.com\u002Fwhen-young-elvis-met-the-legendary-b-b-king\u002F\"\u003EFor BB King\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Elvis's presence at the revue spoke volumes: \"I believe he was showing his roots. And he seemed proud of those roots,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOf course, there are always multiple perspectives on the life of a legendary figure, and Baz Luhrmann's film is just one interpretation. And each of us has our own perception of Elvis, the man, his music and what he did, or didn't, stand for.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELove film and TV? Join \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002F440074069852291\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBBC Culture Film and TV Club\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E on Facebook, a community for cinephiles all over the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley-14"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffilm"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-27T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Who was the real Elvis Presley?","headlineShort":"Who was the real Elvis Presley?","image":["p0cgrpqw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Elvis still","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Elvis still","promoImage":["p0cgrpqw"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":["tag\u002Fmusic"],"summaryLong":"How does the portrayal of 'The King' in Baz Luhrmann's new biopic compare to reality? Kaleem Aftab explores the complex debate around Presley, civil rights and cultural appropriation.","summaryShort":"How does the portrayal of 'The King' in Baz Luhrmann's film compare to reality?","tag":["tag\u002Fmusic"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-26T23:00:03.072558Z","entity":"article","guid":"e351fec9-50b7-498e-a54c-27e8f1f5850c","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-27T08:59:41.986892Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220624-who-was-the-real-elvis-presley","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679332},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20171013-inside-the-most-lovely-and-quirky-homes-of-havana":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20171013-inside-the-most-lovely-and-quirky-homes-of-havana","_id":"62b41fb91f4b7b08ff5efddc","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsay-baker"],"bodyIntro":"With an emphasis on mid-Century influences, along with Cuban ingenuity and flair, a new book Havana Living Today, by Hermes Mallea, explores the city’s most beautiful homes.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":["p05jvsvn"],"id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20171013-inside-the-most-lovely-and-quirky-homes-of-havana-0"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fdesigned"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-10-30T10:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Inside the most distinctive homes of Havana","headlineShort":"Havana’s most beautiful homes","image":["p05g77jy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p05g77jy"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With an emphasis on mid-Century influences, along with Cuban ingenuity and flair, a new book Havana Living Today, by Hermes Mallea, explores the city’s most beautiful homes.","summaryShort":"A surprising look inside some of Cuba’s most distinctive dwellings","tag":null,"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-04-30T14:49:21.51599Z","entity":"article","guid":"5cfc186c-d104-476f-80b7-c83d1de21ce9","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20171013-inside-the-most-lovely-and-quirky-homes-of-havana","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-24T12:03:10.238064Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20171013-inside-the-most-lovely-and-quirky-homes-of-havana","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679332},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today","_id":"62b41fdf1f4b7b7ab619256d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"From Neolithic times to the latest high-rise architecture, it is a mysterious symbol. Beverley D'Silva explores how the infinite, twisting spiral has influenced artists, thinkers and designers for millennia.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThey are to be found everywhere – in the structure of a snail's shell or a pine cone, or the whorl of our fingerprints; in the shape of the Dean's Staircase at St Paul's Cathedral, or the exterior and interior of the Guggenheim Museum in New York; in the tusk of the narwhal – or, indeed, the unicorn; winding through the heart of our \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.space.com\u002F22382-spiral-galaxy.html\"\u003Egalaxy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and in the double helix of our DNA.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201207-how-rest-and-relaxation-became-an-art\"\u003EHow rest and relaxation became an art\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-inside-the-homes-of-remarkable-artists-and-writers\"\u003EInside the homes of remarkable artists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-cottagecore-and-the-rise-of-the-modern-rural-fantasy\"\u003EHow rural bliss became a modern fantasy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThe spiral is one of the oldest geometric shapes found in the ancient world – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.euppublishing.com\u002Fdoi\u002Fabs\u002F10.3366\u002Fgas.1993.18.18.11\"\u003Epetroglyphs of the symbols \u003C\u002Fa\u003Edate back to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fglobaljournals.org\u002FGJHSS_Volume16\u002F6-Did-the-Spiral-Engravings.pdf\"\u003ENeolithic period\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and they are one of the most common patterns in nature, found in the path of draining water or the eye of a hurricane.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Shell","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThere are various types, such as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fartsandculture.google.com\u002Fentity\u002Flogarithmic-spiral\u002Fm0bmlp?hl=en\"\u003Elogarithmic spiral\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, first described by Albrecht Durer in 1525; the Archimedean spiral, so called after the 3rd-Century BC Greek mathematician; Fermat's spiral; the helix and the vortex, to name a few. They're prevalent in man-made structures in art, design and architecture, both secular and sacred – such as the 9th-Century Great Mosque of Samarra or the Vatican Museum's spiral staircase.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAnd this mesmerising form is having a moment, with the imminent launch of what promises to be an iconic new skyscraper in New York. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dezeen.com\u002F2021\u002F05\u002F07\u002Fspiral-supertall-skyscraper-big-paul-clemence\u002F\"\u003EThe Spiral\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a 66-floor structure that tapers skyward at 66 Hudson Boulevard; its build cost, including site purchase, was $3.2 billion, and at just over 1,000-ft tall, it's one of the tallest buildings in the city. Open-air garden terraces snake around the building – these double-height atriums on each floor, according to the publicity information, make a \"unique hybrid that intertwines a continuous green pathway\" spiralling up.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EDominyka Voelkle, an associate at BIG NYC, the architecture firm behind The Spiral, tells BBC Culture that it has \"a very striking silhouette – modern and recognisable and yet very 'old New York', reminiscent of stepped, setback skyscrapers such as the Rockefeller Centre\". The wellbeing and mental health of occupants were integral to the brief; Spiral's biophilic design – which gives access to outdoor space and better indoor air quality – contributes to that. \"The design will help occupants to find tranquility in a busy environment – and the greenery is there to be calming or provide a little reboot,\" says Voelkle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003ETrees and plants have been \"acclimatised\" upstate before being transplanted to the harsher Manhattan climate prior to planting; providing they take well and flourish, Spiral will be \"the first of its type and the highest vertical garden in the world,\" says Voelkle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"For Louise Bourgeois, spirals were more than a symbol to toy with – they were embedded in her psyche","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EArtists across the ages have taken inspiration from spirals. Leonardo da Vinci used spirals in many of his drawings, such as those of molluscs, not to mention his double-helix spiral staircase at Chateau de Chambord in France. Meanwhile, Chan Hwee Chong, a contemporary Singapore artist, makes \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.behance.net\u002Fgallery\u002F2267302\u002FFaber-Castell\"\u003Eillustrations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of famous paintings including Da Vinci's Mona Lisa or Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring using a continuous spiralling line.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EFor \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tate.org.uk\u002Fart\u002Fartworks\u002Fbourgeois-spirals-al00346\"\u003ELouise Bourgeois\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, spirals were more than a symbol to toy with – they were embedded in her psyche, representing the birth, life and rebirth cycle, and sometimes in her work referencing motherhood. The late French-American artist recalled how the spiral – as a potent, occasionally violent, symbol – impressed on her from a young age, and her working life in her family's tapestry restoration business in Paris. \"The spiral is important to me,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.moma.org\u002Fmomaorg\u002Fshared\u002Fpdfs\u002Flouise_bourgeois\u002Flb_essay_2017.pdf\"\u003Eshe said in 1994\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It is a twist. As a child, after washing tapestries in the river, I'd turn and twist and wring them… Later I'd dream of my father's mistress. I'd do it in my dreams by wringing her neck.\" She said she loved the spiral, and it \"represents control and freedom\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThe spider is another frequent motif Bourgeois used; her monumental steel spider sculpture Maman dominated the Turbine Hall in London's newly opened Tate Modern in May 2000. Spirals and spiders loom large in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.southbankcentre.co.uk\u002Fwhats-on\u002Fart-exhibitions\u002Flouise-bourgeois-woven-child\"\u003Ea current show at London's Hayward Gallery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E featuring Bourgeois's fabric art. It includes a sculpture, Spiral Woman, a motif she returned to repeatedly, in which a woman's upper body is trapped in a spiral, like a giant spider's prey. Bourgeois described drawing as \"a secretion, like a thread in a spider's web.\" Katie Guggenheim, assistant curator of The Woven Child, notes that the artist was in psychoanalysis for 30-odd years, and referenced that  throughout eight decades of her career. \"In fact, some of the works seem to be spiralling out of control into madness,\" she notes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Louise Bourgeois sculpture","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003ETaking the symbol into nature is Robert Smithson's Spiral Jetty, a giant spiral-shaped environmental artwork of 1,500ft by 15ft. Built with 6,000 tons of basalt at the mouth of a terminal basin in Great Salt Lake, Utah, where it will inevitably be eroded, it reflects Smithson's fascination with entropy. \"One could perhaps see it as a culturally collective symbol of the emergence of the feminine,\" notes the artist's website, which points out \"the spiral goes counter-clockwise, toward the unconscious\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThe Swiss psychiatrist and psychoanalyst Carl Jung, renowned for his work on symbols, archetypes and the collective unconscious, wrote: \"The spiral in psychology means that when you make a spiral you always come over the same point where you have been before, but never really the same, it is above or below, inside, outside, so it means growth.\" Jung visualised the unconscious process as moving \"spiral-wise round a centre, gradually getting closer, while the characteristics of the centre grow more and more distinct\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\"Serpent of energy\"\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EA fascination with consciousness and the psyche in the West no doubt contributed to the growing interest in meditation and yoga from the 1960s, such as the practice of kundalini yoga, in which the spiral plays a fundamental role: \"kundal\" is a Sanskrit word for spiral or coil, denoting a serpent of energy that coils up through the chakras. In the healing arts, a spiral represents connectivity to the divine. In Vortex healing, it is believed that a divine spiral energy is brought in through the heart to manifest healing and transformation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Vertigo, Jungle Book","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAround the same time, psychedelic art made good use of spirals and kaleidoscopic patterns to suggest the effect of hallucinogenic drugs and altered consciousness. This and the influence of psychoanalysis is clear in films such as Vertigo (1958)  in which director Alfred Hitchcock uses spirals to suggest the \"downward spiral\" into insanity of his main protagonist, Scottie; from the opening credits, a spiral whirling in a graphic eye hypnotises us as a man in silhouette tumbles into a well of psychosis. A spiral staircase triggers Scottie's vertigo and the score, by Bernard Herrmann, was \"built around spirals and circles – of fulfilment and despair\", \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fold.bfi.org.uk\u002Fsightandsound\u002Ffilmmusic\u002Fdetail.php?t=d&q=42\"\u003Eaccording to film director Martin Scorsese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And spiral or concentric eyes are animators' shorthand for madness – or hypnosis, such as the sinister scene when Kaa the snake in Jungle Book hypnotises Mowgli in order to eat him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Spirals are enigmatic, which is perhaps why they lend themselves to interpretations that are, as Jung put it, \"cosmic\"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EA nobler intention was at the heart of a New-York based African-American collective, Spiral, formed in 1963, as a direct response to the march on Washington for jobs and freedom rally. Led by Romare Bearden, Norman Lewis, Charles Alston and Hale Woodruff, its 15 members aimed to address how African-American artists should respond to the US's changing political and cultural scene. They chose an Archimedean spiral because, \"from a starting point, it moves outward embracing all directions, yet constantly upward\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EEmma Amos, Spiral's youngest and only female member, died in May 2020. But the group is still celebrated: fashion designer Duro Olowu wrote in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vogue.co.uk\u002Farts-and-lifestyle\u002Farticle\u002Fduro-olowu-emma-amos\"\u003EVogue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of how he was \"captivated\" by Amos's use of bold, vivid colour, and her \"ability to powerfully challenge sexism and racism… By addressing sexism, racism and stereotypes around black feminism, her paintings offer the kind of resilience and optimism for change that is so important now\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EA spiral logo was recently chosen by the new creative director of luxury fashion house Chloe, Gabriela Hearst, to flag up its most exquisite artisan pieces. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vogue.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fgallery\u002Fchloe-ss22\"\u003E\"Spirals are in,\" declared Vogue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in response. \"A nod to circularity, perhaps? Nothing is a coincidence in Hearst’s world; helixes are next season's most coveted motif.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Spiral staircase at the Vatican","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAstronomer Edward Hubble narrowed down galaxies into four shapes: elliptical, lenticular, irregular – and spiral. Of all the galaxies scientists have so far discovered, most are of the spiral type, \"twisted collections of stars and gas that often have beautiful shapes\", according to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.space.com\u002F22382-spiral-galaxy.html\"\u003Espace.com\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The Milky Way – our solar system – is an \"elegant spiral structure dominated by just two arms wrapping off the ends of a central bar of stars,\" says \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsolarsystem.nasa.gov\u002Fresources\u002F285\u002Fthe-milky-way-galaxy\u002F\"\u003ENasa Science\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Spirals are omnipresent, enduring and infinitely fascinating, but they are also enigmatic, which is perhaps why they lend themselves to interpretations that are, as Jung put it, \"cosmic\". Like black holes, they remain one of life's mysteries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.southbankcentre.co.uk\u002Fwhats-on\u002Fart-exhibitions\u002Flouise-bourgeois-woven-child\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELouise Bourgeois: The Woven Child\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is at The Hayward Gallery, London until 15 May 2022.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-21T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The ancient enigma that still resonates today","headlineShort":"The ancient enigma that resonates now","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Spiral ceiling","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Spiral ceiling","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":[],"summaryLong":"From Neolithic times to the latest architecture, it is a mysterious symbol. Beverley D'Silva explores how the spiral has influenced artists, thinkers and designers for millennia.","summaryShort":"From Neolithic times to today, it has been a mesmerising and mysterious symbol","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-21T00:00:47.714982Z","entity":"article","guid":"03ac9872-01ba-4eea-bc14-4735f0a3de02","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-04T09:16:16.119593Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679332},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom","_id":"62b41fcb1f4b7b052d0a5f4f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"How is the world of self-care and grooming bringing positive change? Bel Jacobs talks to the 'purpose-driven' creators who are making a difference – to mental health, communities and the planet.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERituals of beauty, wellbeing and self-care permeate cultures across history, encompassing ideas of identity and expression, transformation and restoration, cleansing and healing, culture and worth. From a nurturing new face cream to online meditation, beauty and wellbeing provide survival mechanisms, opportunities to take stock and rebalance during anxiety-filled times. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201207-how-rest-and-relaxation-became-an-art\"\u003EHow rest and relaxation became an art\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-inside-the-homes-of-remarkable-artists-and-writers\"\u003EInside the homes of remarkable artists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201113-why-gen-z-and-millennials-go-wild-for-vintage-clothes\"\u003EWhy buying vintage is 'the new luxury'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe pandemic has seen a spike in mental health issues – with 76 million more cases of anxiety, and 53 million more cases of depressive disorder, according to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef.org\u002Fpress-releases\u002Fimpact-covid-19-poor-mental-health-children-and-young-people-tip-iceberg\"\u003EUnicef \u003C\u002Fa\u003Eand Gallup. In troubled times, some beauty professionals have responded imaginatively. When A-list makeup artist\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.leepycroft.co.uk\u002F\"\u003E Lee Pycroft\u003C\u002Fa\u003E noticed rising stress levels among her clients, she retrained as a psychotherapist. She now offers combined makeovers and therapy. \"Makeupfulness\" is where makeup and mindfulness merge. \"Certain language techniques, active listening, reframes and questioning help a person calm down while I do their makeup, enabling them to think more clearly,\" Pycroft told \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.glamourmagazine.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fmakeupfulness-trend-merges-makeup-and-mindfulness\"\u003EGlamour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"I have witnessed women going through severe life challenges start to behave differently after a makeover and a chat. It might be that they go and do something kind for themselves, or are able to see their challenges from a different perspective as they have achieved some emotional flexibility around an issue.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Illustration grooming products","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2014, when Tom Chapman lost a friend to suicide, he launched the Lions Barber Collective, a barbering look-book project to raise awareness and funds for\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.glamourmagazine.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fworld-suicide-prevention-day-signs-how-to-help\"\u003E suicide prevention\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It's been joked about forever that hair pros are a cheap psychiatrist or counsellor, but in reality, we listen on average for 2,000 hours a year,\" he said. \"Imagine what we could achieve by training hair pros to be more successful in suicide prevention and mental health awareness.\" Working with psychiatrists, Chapman created the \"Barber Talk training\", enabling hair professionals to identify warning signs, ask the right questions, listen with empathy and, finally, guide those in need to the groups and resources that could help them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I've experienced first-hand the transformative power that formulations and treatments can have – Paul Gerrard","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis resonates deeply with Paul Gerrard, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhappypaul.co.uk\u002F#rec358045107\"\u003EHappy Paul\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a range of mood-enhancing male skincare. \"Happy Paul's journey has been like therapy,\" says Gerrard. \"I've suffered from depression since my early teens and I've experienced first-hand the transformative power that formulations, product and spa treatments can have. Yet wellness has become a luxury commodity afforded to the few.\" The brand was created, he says, to be accessible to all. \"To me, wellness is about looking after yourself, first and foremost, and that shouldn't be exclusive.\" Happy Paul's sustainable, vegan products – including an uplifting roll-on blend of bergamot, lemon and eucalyptus – encourage simple, rewarding acts of selfcare, with some of the profits going to mental-health charity Young Minds. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe pandemic is driving awareness and approval for more companies that support people and communities. Founded in 2018 by beauty writer Sali Hughes and beauty PR Jo Jones, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.beautybanks.org.uk\u002F\"\u003EBeauty Banks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E aims to tackle hygiene poverty in the UK and to establish being clean as a basic right. Young people can be particularly affected, say the duo, skipping school rather than going into class without washing their hair. Jones and Hughes had first-hand experience of the surplus the industry produces. Their plan: to ask their contacts to donate hygiene products to those in need via partnerships with more than 100 registered foodbanks, domestic abuse charities, homeless shelters, schools, NHS trusts and care-leaver associations. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Illustration beauty products","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We were furious and frustrated when we learned about hygiene poverty, so we decided to do something about it,\" writes Jones, on the charity’s website. \"Both Sali and I work in the beauty industry and know there is a lot of waste and, most importantly, a tremendous amount of generosity and kindness. So we leverage our connections, influence and skills to power Beauty Banks.\" An average delivery to a charity, catering for about 150 people, is worth around £500, and contains items many of us take for granted including soap and sanitary products. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd, as interest in self-care and community has soared, so too has concern for the planet. Successive reports about the climate and ecological crisis have put the global population on high alert and shoppers are asking serious questions about the things they buy every day. The beauty industry is a terrible offender: there are persistent issues of irresponsible sourcing and poisonous levels of ocean pollution, both via plastic packaging and the chemicals used in formulations. Some of our shampoos and shaving foams end up in oceans, and what’s bad for seabirds and coral is, perhaps unsurprisingly, bad for us.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe search is on for formulations and ingredients that protect and truly nourish, that work positively, not only for the bodies they're applied to but also the conditions in which they're grown and harvested. And For Weleda, founded in the 1920s by Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner and encompassing both beauty and naturopathic medicines, using biodynamic growing methods, the answer has always been clear: to go back to the source, back to nature. \"Natural ingredients work in harmony with the body, in a way petrochemical-derived synthetics do not,\" says Jayn Sterland, Weleda UK's managing director and chair of the British Beauty Council's Sustainable Beauty Coalition. \"A skin complaint is often a visible sign of imbalance. Applying a cream merely masks the problem. Using plant-based ingredients which are more skin compatible and work in harmony with the body can trigger our own healing capability.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Illustration bath","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELast year, in an effort to boost supplies of well-grown ingredients to the entire beauty sector, sustainable beauty brand Davines and the Rodale Institute launched a 10-hectare regenerative organic farm and research centre in Parma, Italy. \"You don't often think about where ingredients come from, and what the impact that production process has on our personal health and the health of the planet or the farmworkers,\" Rodale's chief executive Jeff Moyer told \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.voguebusiness.com\u002Fsustainability\u002Ffrom-farm-to-bottle-natural-beautys-next-step\"\u003EVogue Business\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, at the time. \"Expanding this idea [of regenerative agriculture] to go beyond just food and fibre is a great opportunity for all of us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA better world\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Sterland puts it: \"The holistic health benefits [of regenerative beauty] are well documented, both for the user and for the planet.\" And this is where the intersections between health, wellbeing and beauty start to take shape, and where the richest potential for beauty to have a positive impact on the world takes place. High street beauty brand Lush's technicolour windows and playful products belie the serious work that takes place behind the scenes. \"Biodiversity has always been important for us,\" says the brand's supply chain impact project manager Cadi Pink. \"One of our key strategies within sourcing, for example, has been to increase the diversity of materials we're using, in order to put less pressure on ecosystems [via industrial agriculture].\" The label has mapped out key \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fweare.lush.com\u002Fcreate-a-cosmetic-revolution-to-save-the-planet\u002F\"\u003Ebiodiversity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E hotspots around the world, where the brand is actively nurturing regenerative and agroforestry in practice.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Beauty illustration","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Sustainability initiatives often focus on minimising harm,\" adds James Atherton of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fweare.lush.com\u002Flush-life\u002Four-giving\u002Frefund\u002F\"\u003ELush Regenerative Fund, or Re:Fund\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Regeneration goes that extra step and asks: 'how do we add value and health to the ecologies and the social spaces that we're working in?' The opportunity now for the beauty industry is to align more on what we mean by regeneration,\" he continues. \"Often, we see it attached to tree planting or regenerative agriculture but there's this quote by [Brazilian trade union leader] Chico Mendes, 'environmentalism without class struggle is just gardening'. And I love that. We've always believed that, if you're working with grassroots communities, they are the experts. We're just there to offer support where we can.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne such community is the Laikipia Permaculture Centre, a collective of five Maasai women's groups, supported by the regenerative agriculture consultancy reNature, producing Aloe Secundiflora leaves for Lush in ways that combine traditional knowledge with the principles of permaculture. Aloe Secundiflora, originally used by the Maasai for healing and washing, can be processed into everything from shampoo and skin cream to shower gel. The women now produce their own cosmetics for the local market, which gives them additional income. As the demand for responsible beauty grows, harvesting natural ingredients well, with communities and nature in mind, will be vital.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The good news is that sustainable, ethical beauty – beauty that makes the world a better place – is set to surge","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe good news is that sustainable, ethical beauty – beauty that makes the world a better place – is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mintel.com\u002Fblog\u002Fbeauty-market-news\u002Fsustainable-skincare-in-2021-and-beyond\"\u003Eset to surge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.statista.com\u002Fstatistics\u002F673641\u002Fglobal-market-value-for-natural-cosmetics\u002F\"\u003E$34.5 billion in 2018 to $54.5 billion in 2027\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Alongside established names such as Weleda and Lush, a significant number of emerging dynamic brands are accelerating new futures in beauty with innovations in local ingredients, waterless formulas; even aiming at carbon neutrality. What makes these brands so right for these times is their holistic approach to beauty's problems, and their understanding that seemingly separate issues such as product formulation, social justice and environmental protection are fundamentally interlinked and connected. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDanish make-up brand Kjaer Weis is certified organic, working closely with its suppliers, while packing its products into smooth refillable, metal cases. BYBI invites customers to send back their skin booster bottles for them to be sterilised and used again. Wellness brand Haeckels, founded by beach warden Dom Bridges, harvests antibacterial seaweed from Margate beaches in the UK for its handmade skincare; its bottles are made from biodegradable algae; its outer packaging is grown from mushrooms. Brands including Pachamamai, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.boots.com\u002Fethique-pinkalicious-solid-shampoo-110g-10276256\"\u003EEthique\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Lush use condensed formulations to make solid bars, amplifying the efficiency of products while also reducing the need for unnecessary water in the mixtures (and the need for plastic bottles to hold those formulations).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"These purpose-driven beauty companies weave sustainability throughout their whole business, from sourcing and formulation through to independent product certification and paying employees a fair, real, living wage,\" says Sterland. For Lush, the potential of beauty to change the world is part of the brand's DNA. \"We very much see ourselves as campaigners,\" says spokesperson Jonnie Hatfield. \"It's not enough just to be against something any more. You really need to be making a difference.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-16T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Inside the ethical beauty boom","headlineShort":"Inside the ethical beauty boom","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Plant illustration","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Beauty illustration","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":[],"summaryLong":"How is the world of grooming and self-care bringing positive change? Bel Jacobs talks to the creators who are making a difference – to mental health, communities and the planet.","summaryShort":"How the world of self-care and grooming is bringing positive change","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-16T00:00:35.926537Z","entity":"article","guid":"761c6d2a-ee64-4261-937c-4ed53f4ad5d4","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-16T18:26:46.215009Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679332},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters","_id":"62b41fdd1f4b7b714831cd6d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Upcycling, visible mending and organising are among the ways fashionistas are giving their wardrobes a longer life. Bel Jacobs explores how caring for our clothes also means caring for the planet.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn her 2021 book Loved Clothes Last, Orsola de Castro, founder of the global campaign \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fashionrevolution.org\u002Fabout\u002F\"\u003EFashion Revolution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, issues a \u003Cem\u003Ecri de coeur\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. \"In my years of scouring second-hand clothing sorting warehouses I have seen hundreds of perfect pieces abandoned simply because of a broken zip. After all, what is the point of spending time and money repairing a broken zip when ultimately it is quicker, cheaper and infinitely more fun to buy a new piece, with a fully functioning zip? But can we please stop and consider what we are doing when we give up hope on the one that broke? And what happens when we choose to mend it instead?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today\"\u003EThe ancient enigma that still resonates\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom\"\u003EInside the ethical beauty boom\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E-          \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-inside-the-homes-of-remarkable-artists-and-writers\"\u003EInside the homes of remarkable artists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E          \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDe Castro's questions are just two of many confronting fashion in the 21st Century. It is increasingly hard to downplay the environmental and social damage the industry causes. Natural resource use rates are stratospheric, as are pollution and waste levels, while global supply chains are riven with exploitation. Finally, the sector is responsible for between two and eight percent of total \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.un.org\u002Fsustainabledevelopment\u002Fblog\u002F2019\u002F08\u002Factnow-for-zero-waste-fashion\u002F\"\u003Eglobal greenhouse gas emissions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, depending on which study you read. These are breathtaking facts, given that, after a certain point, this is an industry trading in non-essentials. Very few of us in fashion-consuming capitals around the world really need more clothes. Yet nonetheless, out they are churned, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcleanclothes.org\u002Ffashions-problems\u002Fwaste-and-pollution\"\u003Ebetween 80 to 100 billion pieces a year\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Planet Earth","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFashion is scrambling to meet the challenge with intricately researched roadmaps and reports that include a raft of plans to increase energy efficiency in supply chains, switch to renewables, invest in material innovation that sidesteps synthetics, ramp up social justice initiatives and address animal cruelty. But, while these efforts are well-meaning, they are pitted against an industry already megalithic in its impact. Most of those 80 to 100 billion items of clothing – a conservative estimate – already end up incinerated or in landfill after just a few wears. The pandemic delivered a blow; now, global fashion sales are on track to pick up momentum to just over 2019 levels, according to McKinsey Fashion Scenarios.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Where once our grandparents lived lives of thrift and repair, most consumers today have become acclimatised to a wear, break and chuck model","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIncreasingly, campaigners are arguing that one of the easiest ways of slashing fashion's impact is by buying less (far less, just three new pieces of clothing a year, according to campaign group Take the Jump), and by making the clothes we already own last longer. Basically, the fashion industry needs to shrink in size, substantially. For a generation of shoppers pumped up on constructed desires and instant gratification, this can be hard to envisage – but the figures are irrefutable. Research by environmental charity Wrap shows that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwrap.org.uk\u002Fresources\u002Fguide\u002Ftextiles\u002Fclothing\"\u003Eextending the life\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of an item of clothing by just nine months could cut its environmental impact by up to 10 percent; imagine what could be achieved over decades. Factors that contribute include buying good quality clothing, the willingness of owners to wear the same item over and over again, and their ability to take care of them. These may sound easy to achieve but if they were, we'd have done them already. Now, however, the stakes feel too frighteningly high not to try. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt has, after all, been just over a generation since we have lost the fine art of clothing maintenance. Where once our grandparents lived lives of thrift and repair, most consumers today have become acclimatised to a wear, break and chuck model. De Castro's perfect pieces with broken zips are symptoms of a profound disconnection from how clothing is made. But it is now more important than ever to ask why so much of our clothing is petroleum-based; whether the rayon in that jumper was sourced from ancient forests; what animal's fur has gone into that pom pom; why only a minority of garment workers are paid a living wage – and whether we still want a hand in driving all this destruction. De Castro subtitled her book \"how the joy of re-wearing and repairing your clothes can be a revolutionary act\". It's true. We need a revolution.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Orsola de Castro","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe first step is to re-encounter your own wardrobe; textile reuse charity Traid's 23 Percent Campaign was launched in 2019 to highlight the proportion of clothes Londoners left unworn in their wardrobes. Sam Weir is founder of Lotte.V1, a one-on-one styling service, aimed at rekindling our relationship to our clothing. \"Many of us don't use what we own because we've been taught to find style solutions through consumption,\" says the stylist, with a long track record in high-profile campaigns. \"Styling allows people to express themselves and have fun with clothing, without buying new; to push creativity and to truly wear their clothing. It's about learning to interact with fashion, outside of consumption, and it's forming relationships with our things.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhere do we start? \"Block off two hours one week and open up your wardrobe,\" she continues. \"Look for pieces you haven't worn in months or more. Maybe one is a formal blouse. This is where styling can help. Pair it with relaxed denim, something you'd only wear on a weekend. Add kitten heels and a blazer. Through styling, you've taken an item you've only worn in one setting, and made it work for countless others. Through creative styling, dresses can become skirts or tops; old becomes new again. It's as if you just went shopping, and yet you never left your wardrobe.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt helps if you've bought well to start with, says Mikha Mekler, lecturer in production management at London College of Fashion. \"The way we buy is the problem. If we buy quality, it lasts longer.\" Start by dodging fast fashion brands and their glossy, celebrity-laden advertising campaigns, and head straight for ethical labels that pride themselves on craftsmanship. Even then, check for yourself: the heft of an item and the quality of its details can tell you a lot. \"Test the garment,\" says Victoria Jenkins, garment technologist and founder of adaptive clothing label Unhidden. \"Pull it, tug on it, look at the stitching. Is it neat and tidy – or full of loose threads? Can you see 'grinning', where the thread is visible at tension points on the seam? Does the garment have hanger loops to stop it losing shape? Is there taping along a T-shirt shoulder to stop it from being distorted if it is hung up? Is the hem sturdy or can it be easily unpicked? Is there shading on the fabric; are there faults in the print beyond what you might expect?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Most sustainable clothing experts agree: wash clothes less – and wash them cooler","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe next step is care. In his 1954 essay Soap Powders and Detergents, semiotician Roland Barthes wrote about the use of foam – not strictly necessary in the cleaning process – in an advertisement for detergent: \"What matters is the art of having disguised the abrasive function of the detergent under the delicious image of a substance at once deep and airy which can govern the molecular order of the material without damaging it.\" The idea persists that washing somehow renews and refreshes but, in fact, as Barthes points out, it's quite destructive. Most sustainable clothing experts agree: wash clothes less – and wash them cooler, properly sorted, with gentle, natural laundry detergents, and inside out to prevent colour and prints fading.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2019, designer Stella McCartney put it best when \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Ffashion\u002F2019\u002Fjul\u002F07\u002Fstella-mccartney-its-not-like-i-am-here-for-an-easy-life\"\u003Eshe told The Observer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \"The rule is you do \u003Cem\u003Enot\u003C\u002Fem\u003E clean it. You let the dirt dry and you brush it off. Basically, in life, rule of thumb: if you don't absolutely have to clean anything, don't clean it. I wouldn't change my bra every day and I don't just chuck stuff into a washing machine because it's been worn. I am incredibly hygienic myself, but I'm not a fan of dry cleaning or any cleaning, really.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Garment care is still something people get wrong on a day-to-day basis,\" says Mekler. \"I wash a lot of garments, especially the finer things, even jeans, on a wool wash unless they're really dirty.\" Consider hanging lightly soiled pieces in the bathroom while you take a shower and allowing the steam to do the job. Avoid tumble drying; shake out your clothes and hang them out to dry. And then revel in the positive environmental benefits of your new routine. According to the EPA's energy efficiency programme \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.energystar.gov\u002Fabout\u002Forigins_mission\u002Fepas_role_energy_star\"\u003EEnergy Star\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the average washing machine uses 6,500 gallons of water a year, about half as much as you'd drink in a lifetime. Plus, every time we wash, we flush chemicals and microfibres from synthetic garments into overburdened waterways. Finally, most of the emissions produced during the \"in-use\" stage of an item's life cycle originate from washing and tumble drying. Cut that and you're basically a sustainable fashionista. \u003Cspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETo have and to hold\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce you've cleaned your clothes, resist the urge to throw them on the floor or ball them up at the back of the sofa. Correct storage does half the work of clothing care; top tips include keeping cleaned clothes away from sunlight and heat, in cool, dry spaces, with enough space between them to breathe. Professional organiser Katrina Hassan uses the KonMari Method of tidying. \"Awareness and positive habit change is at the heart of the process,\" she says. \"And a key principle is to store things so that you can see everything easily. When you know exactly what you own, you're far more likely to take care of it.\" Periodic assessments allow you to connect with your items and assess their quality over and over again. This is when it's time to start getting hands-on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Visible mending","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We’ve all put things away in a cupboard when a button has fallen off but it would be great if we could just do the basics like threading a needle, sewing on a button, mending a seam,\" argues sustainable consultant Tessa Solomons. \"[The lack of these skills] stops a lot of people at the first hurdle but these alone would save clothes being sent to landfill – or to charity shops where someone else has to deal with them. Plus, it gives you a great sense of achievement, to know that you've got that within your capability. It's a fantastic, joyful thing.\" There's no lack of online resources for the new sewer: both Repair What You Wear and Fixing Fashion Academy offer unintimidating video tutorials to entry-level skills; other sites such as The Clothes Doctor take it up a level with \"how to repair your bra\" and \"crochet a patch on jeans\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When you visibly repair something, it becomes individual. That changes our relationship to our clothing and builds connection with it – Tessa Solomons","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Watch videos specifically about what you want to mend,\" advises Solomons. \"And enjoy it. Get the things you need around you in one place. Put some lovely music on and take your time. Then it doesn't become a chore. It's a choice.\" Embrace visible mending, where people are encouraged to salvage their clothes in creative ways using contrasting coloured stitches, embroidered motifs and patching. Not only does it take the pressure out of trying to achieve perfection, it's fun. \"I've got a pair of dark blue trousers with a yellow button on them –  because I couldn't find a dark blue button to replace the lost one,\" says Solomons. \"Now I just love that button. It changes the whole thing.\" Raeburn, a label based in London that focuses on responsible and innovative design, hosts a variety of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.raeburndesign.co.uk\u002Fpages\u002Fraeburn-lab\"\u003Eworkshops\u003C\u002Fa\u003E where attendees are invited to design and customise their own items, using off-cuts from the atelier. But if this still feels tricky, \"employ the services of someone who loves mending,\" says Solomons. \"There are many people out there who are changing the way we think about mending, one stitch at a time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERepair specialists at ethical high-street label Toast rescue any Toast garment as part of a free \"renewal\" service. Online Reture Bespoke pairs broken pieces with talented young upcyclers. Janelle Hanna, design consultant at sustainable sourcing consultancy White Weft, launched a service to patch and repair denim during lockdown. \"I've been blown away by how popular it's been,\" she says. \"People aren't coming to me with one or two pairs of jeans; they're coming to me with five or six pairs they've not worn for a year, two years, three years, but they just didn't want to throw them away. People want options around repairs. And they just didn't know that it existed.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Organised wardrobe","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaking the decision to mend profoundly changes our relationship to a piece of clothing. \"When people choose to repair, they're investing in that item,\" says Solomons, whose own embroidery filips now decorate the clothes of dozens of clients. \"People come to me with items that have been in their wardrobes or in their families for a long time, that have had a life. When I add to that, they love it even more. That's everything to me.\" In a world of mass-produced goods, where thousands of items looking exactly the same pour out of factories, every minute of every day, promising ease and convenience, that's special. \"When you visibly repair something, it becomes individual,\" says Solomon. \"That changes our relationship to our clothing, and builds connection with it. The people who come to me have realised that their clothes have a value rather than a cost. And that value is something that we cannot put a price on.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe synergy with De Castro, the idea of the quiet revolution, is striking. \"Today, at the dawn of Generation Climate Breakdown, the #lovedclotheslast message we share when we mend and alter our clothes has gone beyond showing off sartorial originality,\" writes De Castro. \"It is now a statement that the act of caring for our clothes extends to the act of caring for our environment, and marks our gratitude by valuing the work of the people who make the things we wear.\" She continues: \"Keep the clothes you have with pride, minimise new acquisitions, and do it with the kind of infectious enthusiasm that radiates joy. Because the only things we need more of now are trees and whales and birds and bees – not clothes.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-31T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"How to be a sustainable fashion lover – and why it matters","headlineShort":"How to make your clothes last longer","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Clothing","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Clothing","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":[],"summaryLong":"Upcycling and organising are among the ways fashionistas are giving their wardrobes a longer life. Bel Jacobs explores how caring for our clothes also means caring for the planet.","summaryShort":"Upcycling, organising and other ways to care for clothing – and the planet","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-30T23:00:47.275641Z","entity":"article","guid":"f5804205-effd-4e19-a4d1-64a945718204","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-01T11:35:22.08413Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679332}},"tags":{"tag\u002Fbooks":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fbooks","_id":"62b420961f4b7b64b247b950","assetImage":[],"description":"Books","linkUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710011438\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fdbpedialite.org\u002Fthings\u002F3778","name":"Books","creationDateTime":"2015-06-25T11:22:18.081921Z","entity":"tag","guid":"8b78845d-0252-4934-9d81-996e6528ed8e","id":"tag\u002Fbooks","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:04:51.462195Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fbooks","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679329},"tag\u002Ffamily-tree":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Ffamily-tree","_id":"62c5b9621f4b7b1bda6ce502","assetImage":null,"description":"","linkUrl":"","name":"Family 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Travel’s latest stories about art history from around the world","linkUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710011438\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fdbpedialite.org\u002Fthings\u002F21207536","name":"Art history","creationDateTime":"2015-06-25T11:58:43.616832Z","entity":"tag","guid":"ceca9f2f-c657-418f-89c6-8bed9fedfb84","id":"tag\u002Fart-history","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:59:53.108479Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fart-history","cacheLastUpdated":1657415679331},"tag\u002Ffilm-history":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Ffilm-history","_id":"62b420971f4b7b5d34253cac","assetImage":null,"description":"","linkUrl":"","name":"Film 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fill="#FA6400" d="M422,424H258c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S256,422.552,256,422V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S257.448,88,258,88h164c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v332c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,424,422,424z"></path></g></svg><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710011438/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#6100A8" d="M134,400H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,398.552,76,398V162c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,160,78,160h56c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S136,161.448,136,162v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S134.552,400,134,400z"></path><path fill="#7222C6" 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