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Watch A Day At Portland's Best Mexican Restaurant | On The Line | Bon Appétit
<!DOCTYPE html><html lang="en-US"><head><title>Watch A Day At Portland's Best Mexican Restaurant | On The Line | Bon Appétit</title><meta charSet="utf-8"/><meta content="IE=edge" http-equiv="X-UA-Compatible"/><meta name="msapplication-tap-highlight" content="no"/><meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"/><meta name="author" content="Condé Nast"/><meta name="copyright" content="Copyright (c) Condé Nast 2024"/><meta name="description" content="Spend a day behind the scenes at República in Portland, OR with founder and co-owner Angel Medina and see how he and his staff work to be the best "storytellers" of Mexican food they can be."/><meta name="id"/><meta name="keywords" content=""/><meta name="news_keywords" content=""/><meta name="robots" content="index, follow, noarchive, max-image-preview:large"/><meta name="content-type" content="video"/><meta name="parsely-post-id"/><meta name="parsely-metadata" content="{"description":"Spend a day behind the scenes at 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scenes at República in Portland, OR with founder and co-owner Angel Medina and see how he and his staff work to be the best \"storytellers\" of Mexican food they can be.","thumbnailUrl":["https://dwgyu36up6iuz.cloudfront.net/heru80fdn/image/upload/c_fill,d_placeholder_bonappetit.png,fl_progressive,g_face,h_1080,q_80,w_1920/v1663189745/bonappetit_on-the-line-a-day-at-a-mexican-restaurant-with-a-new-menu-every-week.jpg"],"uploadDate":"2022-09-14T12:00:00Z","duration":"PT00H13M11S"}</script><figure class="CneVideoEmbedFigure-kCfJjN cXJJqp cne-video-embed"><div id="video-container" data-testid="script-container"></div></figure></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK ieHMWX grid grid-items-1"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--item grid-layout__details"><div><ul data-test="SeriesRubricWrapper" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ SeriesRubricWrapper-hXyKBk iUEiRd kRuYgY egwoVl"><li><a href="/video/series/on-the-line">On The Line</a></li><li><span aria-hidden="true"> | </span></li><li>Season 1</li><li><span aria-hidden="true"> | </span></li><li>Episode 5</li></ul><h1 class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GridDetailsHed-gvhQzS iUEiRd bgGAQZ hed">A Day At Portland's Best Mexican Restaurant</h1><div class="TabsWrapper-dIUrJy WGGxK tabs-component TabAndTabSectionWrapper-fDshys bLiyrJ align-left" role="tablist"><nav aria-label="Secondary" tabindex="-1" class="NavigationWrapper-bFftAs dhaCkX" data-testid="navigation"><ul class="NavigationListWrapper-gWXLVS xcFFY navigation__list" data-testid="navigation__list"><li class="NavigationListItemWrapper-cxLZKD eyFDxF navigation__list-item" data-testid="navigation__list-item"><a role="tab" tabindex="0" aria-selected="true" class="NavigationInternalLink-cWEaeo bqehMO watch-page--tab-link watch-page--tab-link--active watch-page--tab-link--disabled navigation__link" href="#about" data-testid="navigation__internal-link">About</a></li></ul></nav><span class="NavigationDivider-fEDnwq ixXXMs navigation__divider"></span><div class="TabsContentWrapper-jnMXFX bWCRYg"><div role="tabpanel" tabindex="0" class="TabsPanel-dugBWX bQJFHA"><div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ About-dxeYVs iUEiRd jVkrac kpScjZ"><div>Spend a day behind the scenes at República in Portland, OR with founder and co-owner Angel Medina and see how he and his staff work to be the best "storytellers" of Mexican food they can be.</div><p class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ AboutDate-iizOQc iUEiRd jAXOro fCmonT">Released on 09/14/2022</p></div><div class="TranscriptWrapper-hGQQXY eVMnyn"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ TranscriptHeading-hfjqKn bmzxCs jrbRwr">Transcript</div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ TranscriptSectionWrapper-AzyBZ iUEiRd bgGAQZ ihiywf"><p>[Angel] Republica's concept is based on seasonality,</p><p>meaning that every week you'll have one dish,</p><p>and the next week that dish will be completely gone</p><p>because the components have changed.</p><p>We wanted to be the best storytellers</p><p>about Mexican food and this culture.</p><p>That's why we call our servers storytellers.</p><p>My job is just to make sure that</p><p>that vision is being followed through.</p><p>[bright music]</p><p>Hola, my name is Angel Medina,</p><p>I am the founder and co-owner of Republica.</p><p>Come on in.</p><p>It's 9 AM on a Thursday,</p><p>right about now, I QC some ingredients,</p><p>I meet with my chefs,</p><p>I make sure things are in place.</p><p>As you can see here, this is an open kitchen.</p><p>We wanted to do that intentionally because we wanted</p><p>to show the people that work behind here.</p><p>The other thing you'll notice is</p><p>it's an all-electric kitchen,</p><p>which some people will be limited by that,</p><p>but for us, it gives us precision.</p><p>Most of the heat is coming from that element</p><p>of the two ovens that you see there.</p><p>Our menu changes very often.</p><p>We have 13 or 14 different courses just about every night,</p><p>which means that, right about now, Chef Lauro's downstairs,</p><p>trying out some new ingredients,</p><p>some things that he just picked up from the market.</p><p>We're gonna try it, follow me.</p><p>[bright music]</p><p>Down this way.</p><p>What's up, chef?</p><p>Hey Angel, how are ya?</p><p>This is my dear friend, co-owner, Chef Lauro Romero.</p><p>How's it going?</p><p>You're creating something new, I take it?</p><p>Yeah, you didn't get my email? [laughs]</p><p>No, I didn't get your, shut up.</p><p>What do you got?</p><p>So we're gonna roll out with escamoles.</p><p>It's a food from central Mexico.</p><p>It's essentially ant larvae.</p><p>You're basically digging in, bare arms, if you're good.</p><p>Yeah.</p><p>Going into those holes, pulling out the nest of ants,</p><p>taking the larvae.</p><p>We gonna do it kind of like with arborio,</p><p>some short grain, it's gonna be creamy,</p><p>we're gonna put some poblanos in there.</p><p>We're gonna make it a paste and a little bit</p><p>of the squash blossoms on top,</p><p>to just add a little freshness.</p><p>And even though this is now called Mexican caviar,</p><p>this, 20 years ago, only farmers eat it, you know?</p><p>Are these from this morning?</p><p>Well, we picked those up in the airport yesterday.</p><p>Nice.</p><p>So one of my favorite things in the world, chicatanas.</p><p>In the first rainy season, in the summer,</p><p>in central Mexico, it rains so hard that</p><p>everything gets flooded, and these ants come out.</p><p>There's about two weeks to harvest them.</p><p>In this case, we're actually using them on a tostada,</p><p>so we have a fish that is cured with chicatanas</p><p>and a little bit of coffee.</p><p>Once the dish is final, we put a dome on top of it,</p><p>and then we smoke it with the chicatana</p><p>and a little bit of apple wood smoke.</p><p>There is like the funkiness, there is the earthiness</p><p>from it, and then the sweetness of the wood</p><p>keeps transporting you to this place</p><p>where you're toasting chicatanas, and it's rainy,</p><p>so you smell a little bit of earth sweetness,</p><p>and that's kind of the idea behind this.</p><p>These are things that we want to have on the menu,</p><p>that we want to pay the respect to the cuisine</p><p>in bringing these things, it's not cheap.</p><p>It's honestly a pain in the ass to go to the airport</p><p>every time 'cause they don't get delivered.</p><p>And the airport's a good hour trip.</p><p>Honestly, fruit and vegetables taste</p><p>a lot different when they're in season.</p><p>This is why we really focus on sustainability here.</p><p>Our menu changes constantly based on ingredients</p><p>that are popping up.</p><p>The one thing that doesn't change, however,</p><p>is the corn for masa.</p><p>We have our nixtamalization program that happens</p><p>right about now, right at 11, down the street</p><p>at our other restaurant, so follow me.</p><p>You ready?</p><p>I'll meet you there in a second.</p><p>I gotta put this away.</p><p>Okay.</p><p>We opened Fondita in May of this year, 2022.</p><p>Again, continuing to focus on those things</p><p>that use corn, right?</p><p>So right now it's 11:00 AM.</p><p>We already have some stuff nixtamalizing.</p><p>For us, corn, it's such an important piece of everything</p><p>that we do, in our entire tortillas, memelas,</p><p>and anything that's corn-based is made outta here.</p><p>Nixtamalization, the process itself, is a three-day process,</p><p>usually, essentially what it does is</p><p>it breaks down the corn.</p><p>In here, you have an alkaline solution.</p><p>The alkaline will help to essentially break it all down</p><p>and get you to a texture where it's soft enough.</p><p>As you can see, she's already making</p><p>those tortillas for us right now.</p><p>This is something that we do for everybody,</p><p>everything is made on the spot, as you order it.</p><p>You have three types of masa here,</p><p>a blue corn, a yellow corn, and a white corn.</p><p>This is all the corn that comes in from Mexico</p><p>that we nixtamalize in-house.</p><p>So Lauro just got here, we're gonna continue</p><p>with the process.</p><p>If you break it down, you'll see that it</p><p>starts starting to gelatinize.</p><p>It should look a little bit like, almost like al dente,</p><p>right, you have like a little starch in the middle,</p><p>but everything else is kind of gelatinized.</p><p>And that helps with elasticity of the masa,</p><p>that's what's gonna make it stick together.</p><p>So I'm gonna rinse it off a little bit,</p><p>and then we gonna put it into the molino.</p><p>This comes from Oaxaca specifically.</p><p>So the next step, we're gonna grind it.</p><p>It's gonna get loud.</p><p>[molino grinds]</p><p>In here, you have two big volcanic stones.</p><p>The friction of it grinds it, so the corn itself,</p><p>as you see there, falls in between, breaking it down.</p><p>It's soft enough because of the nixtamalization.</p><p>Essentially, what we're doing is we're rolling it up,</p><p>reintegrating it all together, so that eventually</p><p>you get this thing that most people are familiar with.</p><p>Something like this, which is masa.</p><p>The assembly line goes masa, press, and then here.</p><p>Oh, that's good.</p><p>This is our quesadilla.</p><p>Looks a little different than</p><p>the quesadillas you're used to.</p><p>Four types of corn, just to highlight the beauty of the corn</p><p>that we bring from Mexico.</p><p>All nixtamalized at different stages,</p><p>because it's so different.</p><p>You have different type of sweetness,</p><p>you have a different type of saltiness to it.</p><p>The beauty of it is that the texture is all the same,</p><p>which is the most important piece.</p><p>And what states are represented?</p><p>So you got Oaxaca, Tlaxcala in here,</p><p>and two Estado de Mexico with this, too.</p><p>Woo hoo hoo ho hoo, queso or quesillo, as we know it.</p><p>Oh, that's so good. Wow.</p><p>It's food that belonged to the Toltecs and Olmecs</p><p>and Zapotecs and Mayans, and we're able to give you</p><p>different varieties and even different techniques</p><p>that we still use in modern-day Mexican cuisine.</p><p>It's 12 o'clock, I gotta get back to Republica,</p><p>which is just about three blocks away.</p><p>I'm meeting with Don Miguel, I'll see you there.</p><p>Five o'clock somewhere, that's right.</p><p>I'm meeting here with Maestro Miguel,</p><p>we're gonna taste some wines,</p><p>we're gonna drink some mezcal.</p><p>He's one of the few Mexican-born and -raised</p><p>somme's in this country.</p><p>What do you have today, Miguel?</p><p>We're gonna start with wine,</p><p>and we're gonna then go to some agaves.</p><p>Wines here is Mexican, BIPOC, female, queer,</p><p>minority-driven.</p><p>Not a lot of people know that Queretaro can make wines,</p><p>not a lot of people know Mexico can make wines.</p><p>But in Mexico we have 32 states,</p><p>out of those, 14 already make wine.</p><p>So now we're going to start with Vinos Barrigon.</p><p>By the way, did you see how much he poured me?</p><p>This is my first, this is, it's still noon.</p><p>Part of the commitment that we have over here.</p><p>[Angel laughs]</p><p>We are using this tonight with the chicatana.</p><p>This matches the texture of it, and the high acid help us</p><p>clean the palette while invites you to get another sip</p><p>and another bite, hopefully.</p><p>This stuff is probably the only time that you're</p><p>gonna find this here in the US, and for us,</p><p>it's been a goal bringing wines from not</p><p>just the Baja region, but also focusing on places</p><p>like Queretaro, Guanajuato.</p><p>Mexico is actually it's the first place</p><p>where grapes were planted in the Americas, correct?</p><p>Yeah. Yeah.</p><p>So it's been around for almost 500 years.</p><p>Wine was born in what you know these days as Mexico,</p><p>back in the day Nueva España,</p><p>and for every ten Native American slave humans</p><p>that you had on your vicinity or your territory,</p><p>you had to plant one grapevine.</p><p>Pretty knowledgeable human being here.</p><p>We're gonna try some mezcal.</p><p>So now a new batch of Derrumbes Salmiana.</p><p>It's super spicy as you can see, a little bit</p><p>of that green bell pepper.</p><p>Quite rich, definitely.</p><p>It often tastes, when you open it,</p><p>it smells like a can of chiles, and then when you try it,</p><p>it tastes like a can of bell peppers.</p><p>So this is a method that I use sometimes when I have to</p><p>drink a lot or taste a lot of different spirits,</p><p>dipping your pinkie, or any kind of finger,</p><p>and then rubbing it against your skin.</p><p>It helps the alcohol evaporate.</p><p>There's an evolution, and it's quite nice to see</p><p>how it changes from that first to the second</p><p>and the third nose.</p><p>Okay y'all, it's 1:30 PM, I'm gonna take this last sip,</p><p>and I gotta get over to the other side</p><p>and meet with our executive pastry chef.</p><p>[bright music]</p><p>[Olivia] Okay, so I have one-</p><p>Wait, hold on, can I tell the people who you are first?</p><p>Oh sorry, yeah.</p><p>I'm just kidding.</p><p>I was excited about desserts.</p><p>Here with me is Chef Olivia.</p><p>Hi! What are we doing?</p><p>Okay, so I have one dessert that I think is</p><p>pretty much ready to go and has already gone</p><p>through other vetting. Okay.</p><p>So I will plate that up for you,</p><p>the other one is in its very first stages.</p><p>So I'll do the strawberry one first.</p><p>It's gonna be our dulce de leche coconut candied peanuts.</p><p>One of the staple crops in Mexico, one of the oldest.</p><p>Kind of fluffy light coconut cake.</p><p>It is gonna be all plant-based.</p><p>It's gonna keep it really nice and light for summer.</p><p>Strawberries, then I'm going to be using</p><p>something called nata de coco.</p><p>So then a little serrano, candied, for some heat.</p><p>My final element is a coconut and avocado sorbet.</p><p>So one of the hardest challenges here,</p><p>the work done by Chef Olivia, mostly because one,</p><p>you're not from this culture, so it takes a lot more effort</p><p>to go out there, to research these things,</p><p>and figure out whether or not they're historically connected</p><p>to what we're trying to present here.</p><p>The other is that these are original desserts, you know,</p><p>it's pretty easy to take a tiramisu,</p><p>or a tres leches cake, and modify it,</p><p>and add some sort of component that's trending.</p><p>How did you get it so fluffy without, you said it's vegan?</p><p>I mean, it has baking powder, which makes it fluffy,</p><p>but the food in what is now Mexico was almost</p><p>entirely vegan once upon a time.</p><p>Thoughts? It's great.</p><p>It's ready to go.</p><p>All right, this definitely has to go on the menu, for sure.</p><p>So the next one, it's a little more in its baby stages,</p><p>but it is gonna be a beet and cocoa butter atole.</p><p>So atole is a masa-based drink.</p><p>It has been drunk since the Aztecs.</p><p>We have some Oregon peaches that are</p><p>in the beginning of season, so some candied walnuts.</p><p>Mexico's the fifth-highest producer of walnuts.</p><p>I just have some sourdough bread for a bit of tang</p><p>and a little bit of texture.</p><p>So then just a bit of a sourdough ice cream.</p><p>Ready?</p><p>Oh no, it needs lime zest. [gasps]</p><p>Lime zest?</p><p>Very important.</p><p>So adds a little brightness,</p><p>a little bit of something unexpected.</p><p>You're gonna need a knife.</p><p>It's messy.</p><p>It's supposed to be messy.</p><p>Oh.</p><p>Is it good?</p><p>No, I'm just kidding, it's great.</p><p>Fantastic.</p><p>First thing, the atole's fantastic, but it's warm.</p><p>It's quite a contrast between the ice cream and the atole.</p><p>The walnuts are great but they're overpowering,</p><p>because they're so big.</p><p>So there's no way to really break those up.</p><p>I don't know if it's ready for tonight,</p><p>but it's pretty fantastic.</p><p>Okay, we'll keep the other one on until,</p><p>shoot for Monday. Okay.</p><p>It's 3:00 PM, and our front of house staff</p><p>is starting to arrive.</p><p>We still have to print menus, and then we gotta talk</p><p>about these dishes, we got a few dishes, as you've seen</p><p>from the day, that we have to add and a lot of education</p><p>that we have to go through, so I'm gonna take this with me.</p><p>Chef, thank you.</p><p>Just printing the last one.</p><p>Okay, we're good.</p><p>Probably should have spell-checked before I printed,</p><p>but that's okay.</p><p>So we're about to do our lineup, but before I do that,</p><p>I'm gonna go home and change,</p><p>so that I look professional for y'all.</p><p>[upbeat music]</p><p>[Angel] Anything else, are you good?</p><p>[speaking Spanish]</p><p>[upbeat music]</p><p>Let's go, 4:30 and it's our lineup time.</p><p>This is when we gather everybody and we do one last,</p><p>well, one last check on everything</p><p>that we're supposed to know by five o'clock today.</p><p>So come on over here.</p><p>All right team, get over here, everybody.</p><p>And I hope you're taking notes.</p><p>At five o'clock, A1, no shrimp, no cheese.</p><p>We have two new dishes today, arroz verde with escamoles.</p><p>This is ant larvae.</p><p>[Juan] You know, really emphasize the fact that, you know,</p><p>escamoles are super important to the gastronomy in Mexico.</p><p>That, along with every insect that you see up here,</p><p>you know.</p><p>Ten minutes to go time, everybody have a great service.</p><p>People are showing up, let's go.</p><p>[upbeat music]</p><p>[Angel] This dish comes from Chef Lalo.</p><p>He grew up in poverty.</p><p>His mom would make him something called atun.</p><p>Our chicatana tostada, it's Kampachi.</p><p>We've cured it in coffee, as well as the chicatana ants.</p><p>Aguachile itself translates directly to</p><p>water chile in Spanish.</p><p>We use the smoke to bring about the scent</p><p>after a heavy rainfall, as that's when the chicatana ants</p><p>are known to come outta the 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