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Le 5 sfilate più cool dal terzo giorno di moda uomo a Parigi
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type="application/ld+json">{"@type":"NewsArticle","thumbnailUrl":"https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907285896-1516434848.jpg?crop=0.668xw:1.00xh;0.157xw,0&resize=100:*","datePublished":"2018-01-20T14:50:00Z","headline":"Le 5 sfilate più cool dal terzo giorno di moda uomo a Parigi","articleBody":" Maison Margiela Un simbolo: un quadrato con all’interno un triangolo dal cuore di cerchio. È l’icona creata ex novo da John Galliano per sigillare il suo debutto nell’uomo di Maison Margiela. Quell’icona che decora come un maxi murales la sala dello show. Quell’icona che torna come sigillo sulle sneakers di carattere. Quell’icona che svetta, intagliata, sulla schiena dei coat. Sinergy è la parola che racconta quel simbolo. Una sinergia tra universo maschile e femminile. Perché la prima stagione del creativo di Gibilterra al menswear della griffe prosegue il racconto donna. Capi scorticati e animati soltanto dal loro scheletro. Colori bold. Tracce space. Materie plastiche. Ricordi di atelier nelle citazioni all’Artisanal, il progetto alta moda del marchio. Echi di anni 40. Elementi della cultura british. Conditi con tracce street. Nelle Sms-Security Margiela sneaker o nelle tracolle XXL dalle logature imbiancate. Comme des Garçons Jurassic Park incontra 2001 Odissea nello spazio. Nel cuore del Thêatre de Chatelet in ristrutturazione sfilano le creature di Comme des Garçons, un po’ animale preistorico un po’ replicante immacolato da sci-fi. Il racconto di Rei Kawakubo è scandito da figure inquietanti, che indossano maschere di panno lenci che mimano le teste scheletriche di rinoceronti e mammuth, di triceratopi, velociraptor e stegosauri. Sono opere speciali realizzate per l’occasione dall’artista Shimoda Masakatsu. Il verbo predicato dalla designer è semplice: “White shock”. Indosso un mix che sconfina nel surreale. Tra fantasie che mimano le pagine di un fumetto e stampe parlanti ingrigite e impolverate. E poi patch dal retrogusto folk ma anche clash cromatici di gran carattere. A pulire lo sguardo il bianco latteo, kubrickiano. Ai piedi Nike immacolate e scarpe create insieme a George Cox. In testa parrucche rococó in cromatismi sbagliati. Per un damerino da navicella spaziale. Alexander McQueen Il racconto di un’eleganza tipicamente british contaminata da un tocco di subcultura modernista. Richiami alla scena musicale rock. Tracce di Savile Row e di un sartoriale fatto a regola d’arte. E poi citazioni agli urban cowboy irlandesi ma anche a un certo savoir faire prezioso, di mani che ricamano e che impreziosiscono i tessuti con frammenti di luce. \"Rinnovare i codici del tailoring, trasformarli e renderli nuovi”, parola di Sarah Burton, alla seconda passerella uomo di Alexander McQueen. Per un racconto che unisce quadrettati e damascati, in un'oscillazione tra sobrietà e stravaganza. La prima scandita nei suit da ufficio dalle forme più urbane, la seconda esaltata anche solo dai macro trench annodati in vita e svolazzanti come una gonna. Per arrivare al finale, dove il tuxedo da red carpet ha elementi gym e tracce da tuta active, nonostante sia illuminato dalla luce di jais neri, pronti a disegnare ramages fiorati. Junya Watanabe Funzionalità. Di uno zaino, di un borsone da viaggio che si trasforma in giacca, in coat, in giubbotto. Junya Watanabe scommette sul guardaroba utility per creare il suo autunno inverno 2018 19. E in un parcheggio sotterraneo svela i suoi workers dalle giacche antipioggia, decorate di strisce catarifrangenti. Non un guardaroba ma capi scelti per proteggere e regalare comfort alla figura maschile. Che si tratti di un giubbottone o di un paio di pant, tutto ha il sapore di un urbanwear evoluto. Comprese le collaborazioni di stagione. Con New Balance per le scarpe, con Levi’s per i jeans dal taglio baggy. E poi The North Face e Canada Goose oltre a Karrimor, Filson, Gloverall, Carhartt ed Heinrich Dinkelacker. A delineare una famiglia sempre più grande. Berluti Relax. In una scatola di velluto rosa polvere. Dove tra la nebbia di un mattino di inverno si muovono gli uomini, e qualche donna, in abiti Berluti. \"In un mondo in cui tutto è gridato e strillato mi piaceva l’idea di parlare a un uomo calmo. Sereno, cool... Un uomo di oggi ancorato alle sue certezze, che vive nel contemporaneo senza farsi travolgere\". Parola di Haider Ackermann che per delineare l’autunno inverno 2018 19 del marchio sceglie un guardaroba di pezzi conosciuti. Lussuosamente semplice nella sua normalità. A dipingere un’eleganza intima e riservata. Fatta di pezzi normali. Che si tratti del trench di pelle caramello o di un antipioggia superlight, di un cappotto in shearling nuvola o di un abito tagliato in sartoria, di un giubbino in pellame luxury o di un cappotto costruito in sartoria. Per delineare una semplicità a cinque stelle lusso.","wordCount":null,"articleSection":"Stile","image":[{"@type":"ImageObject","height":1200,"thumbnail":"https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907285896-1516434848.jpg?crop=0.668xw:1.00xh;0.157xw,0&resize=100:*","url":"https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907285896-1516434848.jpg?crop=0.668xw:1.00xh;0.157xw,0&resize=1200:*","width":1200},{"@type":"ImageObject","height":900,"thumbnail":"https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907285896-1516434848.jpg?crop=0.668xw:1.00xh;0.157xw,0&resize=100:*","url":"https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907285896-1516434848.jpg?crop=0.8873835732430144xw:1xh;center,top&resize=1200:*","width":1200},{"@type":"ImageObject","height":675,"thumbnail":"https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907285896-1516434848.jpg?crop=0.668xw:1.00xh;0.157xw,0&resize=100:*","url":"https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907285896-1516434848.jpg?crop=1xw:0.8451812977099237xh;center,top&resize=1200:*","width":1200}],"mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15376244/parigi-moda-uomo-sfilate-autunno-inverno-2018-2019/","@type":"WebPage"},"publisher":{"@type":"NewsMediaOrganization","name":"Esquire","sameAs":["https://twitter.com/esquireitalia","https://facebook.com/EsquireItalia","http://instagram.com/esquireitalia","https://it.pinterest.com/esquireitalia/"],"logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","url":"https://www.esquire.com/it/_assets/design-tokens/esquire/static/images/logos/logo-jsonld.f471601.png","width":312,"height":60},"parentOrganization":{"@type":"NewsMediaOrganization","name":"Hearst Corporation"}},"keywords":["content-type: Default","locale: IT","displayType: listicle"],"url":"https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15376244/parigi-moda-uomo-sfilate-autunno-inverno-2018-2019/","isBasedOn":"https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15376244/parigi-moda-uomo-sfilate-autunno-inverno-2018-2019/","description":"Il menswear dell'autunno inverno 2018 in cinque défilé che hanno animato la giornata, da Comme des Garçons a Berluti, da Maison Margiela a Alexander McQueen.","@context":"http://schema.org","about":{"@type":"ItemList","numberOfItems":5,"itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"item":{"@type":"Thing","name":"Maison Margiela","url":"https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15376244/parigi-moda-uomo-sfilate-autunno-inverno-2018-2019/#slide-1","description":"Un simbolo: un quadrato con all’interno un triangolo dal cuore di cerchio. È l’icona creata ex novo da John Galliano per sigillare il suo debutto nell’uomo di Maison Margiela. Quell’icona che decora come un maxi murales la sala dello show. Quell’icona che torna come sigillo sulle sneakers di carattere. Quell’icona che svetta, intagliata, sulla schiena dei coat. Sinergy è la parola che racconta quel simbolo. Una sinergia tra universo maschile e femminile. Perché la prima stagione del creativo di Gibilterra al menswear della griffe prosegue il racconto donna. Capi scorticati e animati soltanto dal loro scheletro. Colori bold. Tracce space. Materie plastiche. Ricordi di atelier nelle citazioni all’Artisanal, il progetto alta moda del marchio. Echi di anni 40. Elementi della cultura british. Conditi con tracce street. 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Tra fantasie che mimano le pagine di un fumetto e stampe parlanti ingrigite e impolverate. E poi patch dal retrogusto folk ma anche clash cromatici di gran carattere. A pulire lo sguardo il bianco latteo, kubrickiano. Ai piedi Nike immacolate e scarpe create insieme a George Cox. In testa parrucche rococó in cromatismi sbagliati. Per un damerino da navicella spaziale.","image":"https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-908033702-1516435051.jpg"}},{"@type":"ListItem","position":3,"item":{"@type":"Thing","name":"Alexander McQueen","url":"https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15376244/parigi-moda-uomo-sfilate-autunno-inverno-2018-2019/#slide-3","description":"Il racconto di un’eleganza tipicamente british contaminata da un tocco di subcultura modernista. Richiami alla scena musicale rock. Tracce di Savile Row e di un sartoriale fatto a regola d’arte. E poi citazioni agli urban cowboy irlandesi ma anche a un certo savoir faire prezioso, di mani che ricamano e che impreziosiscono i tessuti con frammenti di luce. \"Rinnovare i codici del tailoring, trasformarli e renderli nuovi”, parola di Sarah Burton, alla seconda passerella uomo di Alexander McQueen. Per un racconto che unisce quadrettati e damascati, in un'oscillazione tra sobrietà e stravaganza. La prima scandita nei suit da ufficio dalle forme più urbane, la seconda esaltata anche solo dai macro trench annodati in vita e svolazzanti come una gonna. Per arrivare al finale, dove il tuxedo da red carpet ha elementi gym e tracce da tuta active, nonostante sia illuminato dalla luce di jais neri, pronti a disegnare ramages fiorati. ","image":"https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/13b1dbdb-0a38-45a5-a3ae-de08e84f8224-1516472019.jpeg"}},{"@type":"ListItem","position":4,"item":{"@type":"Thing","name":"Junya Watanabe","url":"https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15376244/parigi-moda-uomo-sfilate-autunno-inverno-2018-2019/#slide-4","description":"Funzionalità. Di uno zaino, di un borsone da viaggio che si trasforma in giacca, in coat, in giubbotto. Junya Watanabe scommette sul guardaroba utility per creare il suo autunno inverno 2018 19. E in un parcheggio sotterraneo svela i suoi workers dalle giacche antipioggia, decorate di strisce catarifrangenti. Non un guardaroba ma capi scelti per proteggere e regalare comfort alla figura maschile. Che si tratti di un giubbottone o di un paio di pant, tutto ha il sapore di un urbanwear evoluto. Comprese le collaborazioni di stagione. Con New Balance per le scarpe, con Levi’s per i jeans dal taglio baggy. 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0;}.css-n9i6v4{display:inline-block;gap:0px;-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;width:-webkit-fit-content;width:-moz-fit-content;width:fit-content;border:0.0625rem solid black;padding:0.625rem;text-align:center;line-height:1.4;text-transform:uppercase;font-family:Lausanne,Lausanne-upcase-roboto,Lausanne-upcase-local,Arial,sans-serif;letter-spacing:0.045rem;-webkit-text-stroke:0.01rem;-webkit-transition:background 0.3s ease-in-out;transition:background 0.3s ease-in-out;}@media(max-width: 48rem){.css-n9i6v4{font-size:0.70028rem;line-height:2rem;}}@media(min-width: 48rem){.css-n9i6v4{font-size:0.75rem;line-height:2rem;}}.css-n9i6v4:hover{background-color:#D4D4D4;color:#000;}.css-c12m7n{display:inline-block;gap:0px;-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;width:-webkit-fit-content;width:-moz-fit-content;width:fit-content;border:0.0625rem solid 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dal terzo giorno di moda uomo a Parigi" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15376244/parigi-moda-uomo-sfilate-autunno-inverno-2018-2019/" class="e3morl60 css-93j5lg e1c1bym14"><span itemprop="name">Le 5 sfilate più cool dal terzo giorno di moda uomo a Parigi</span></a><meta itemprop="position" content="3"/></li></ol></nav><h1 class="css-12gzw4j e1f1sunr8"><span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-before" class="css-0 eagam8p0"></span>Le 5 sfilate più cool dal terzo giorno di moda uomo a Parigi<span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-after" class="css-0 eagam8p1"></span></h1><div class="css-iuammy e1f1sunr6"><p>Il menswear dell'autunno inverno 2018 in cinque défilé che hanno animato la giornata, da Comme des Garçons a Berluti, da Maison Margiela a Alexander McQueen.</p></div><div class="css-buz497 e1f1sunr5"><address class="css-12blbcx e1v8cotw2"><span data-theme-key="by-line-name" class="css-o8f6o3 e1v8cotw1">Di Giampietro Baudo</span><time class="css-180qcdc e1f1sunr4">Pubblicato: 20/01/2018</time></address></div><div class="no-print css-wkpw2c e1f1sunr11"><div data-journey-blur="true" class="content-header-actions css-18jz25a e1f1sunr10"></div></div></div></div></section></header><div data-journey-body="listicle" data-journey-hide="true" class="listicle-container content-container listicle-body-content css-4rmlxi e13lia4i20"><section data-ad-index="0" class="css-t6ry6e e13lia4i18"><section class="listicle-header css-eejppf e13lia4i17"><div class="css-1bw2h88 e13lia4i16"><div class="css-19di9js e13lia4i15"><div data-journey-blur="true" class="content-lead-image css-sm2oir e17huqc62"><div class="css-96439d e17huqc61"><section data-lazy-id="P0-5"><div class="css-p7qblm e1mlxuuw0"><picture class="css-1oxikel e1i0vlu30"><source srcset="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907285896-1516434848.jpg?crop=1.00xw:0.754xh;0,0.246xh&resize=1200:*" media="(min-width: 73.75rem)"/><source srcset="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907285896-1516434848.jpg?crop=1.00xw:0.754xh;0,0.246xh&resize=1024:*" media="(min-width: 64rem)"/><source srcset="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907285896-1516434848.jpg?crop=1.00xw:0.754xh;0,0.246xh&resize=980:*" media="(min-width: 48rem)"/><source srcset="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907285896-1516434848.jpg?crop=1.00xw:0.754xh;0,0.246xh&resize=640:*" media="(max-width: 48rem)"/><img src="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907285896-1516434848.jpg?crop=1.00xw:0.754xh;0,0.246xh&resize=640:*" alt="Performance, Stage, Fashion, Performance art, Performing arts, Event, Space, " title="Performance, Stage, Fashion, Performance art, Performing arts, Event, Space, " width="3543" height="2358" decoding="async" fetchPriority="high" sizes="100vw"/></picture><a target="_blank" rel="noopener" data-theme-key="base-link" 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class="standard-article-vertical-ad e13lia4i10 css-8d4de6 e19qkiag2"><div id="gpt-ad-vertical-top" class="ad-container css-rbetrv ewg5wdb1"></div></div></div></div><section id="slide-1" data-anchor-id="slide-1" data-journey-listicle-slide="true" class="css-1rz4ih8 e16kmapv8"><div data-journey-content="true" class="listicle-slides css-13j5f4r e16kmapv7"><div class="css-1l3nada e16kmapv6"><span class="css-baki89 e16kmapv2">1</span><h2 class="css-1w3symk e16kmapv5">Maison Margiela</h2><div class="css-ihgp0w eutn2uj2"><div class="css-7jdyxr e1nfup6f1"><img srcset="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907222112-1516435140.jpg?crop=0.5333333333333333xw:1xh;center,top&resize=480:* 640w, https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907222112-1516435140.jpg?crop=0.5333333333333333xw:1xh;center,top&resize=980:* 980w" alt="Runway, Fashion, Fashion show, Event, Public event, Jacket, Fashion design, Fashion model, " data-cy="slide-image-1" src="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-907222112-1516435140.jpg?crop=0.5333333333333333xw:1xh;center,top&resize=980:*" title="Runway, Fashion, Fashion show, Event, Public event, Jacket, Fashion design, Fashion model, " width="3543" height="2362" decoding="async" loading="lazy"/><figcaption data-theme-key="photo-credit-figcaption" class="css-1am3yn9 e1g9hcy40"><span class="css-td7rmj e1geg53v1">Getty Images</span></figcaption></div></div><div class="css-18oiw2p e16kmapv3"><div class="css-4o5u1 e16kmapv4"><p class="css-1nd4gv7 emevuu60">Un simbolo: un quadrato con all’interno un triangolo dal cuore di cerchio. È l’icona creata ex novo da John Galliano per sigillare il suo debutto nell’uomo di Maison Margiela. Quell’icona che decora come un maxi murales la sala dello show. Quell’icona che torna come sigillo sulle sneakers di carattere. Quell’icona che svetta, intagliata, sulla schiena dei coat. <em>Sinergy</em> è la parola che racconta quel simbolo. Una sinergia tra universo maschile e femminile. Perché la prima stagione del creativo di Gibilterra al menswear della griffe prosegue il racconto donna. Capi scorticati e animati soltanto dal loro scheletro. Colori bold. Tracce space. Materie plastiche. Ricordi di atelier nelle citazioni all’Artisanal, il progetto alta moda del marchio. Echi di anni 40. Elementi della cultura british. Conditi con tracce street. Nelle Sms-Security Margiela sneaker o nelle tracolle XXL dalle logature imbiancate.</p></div></div></div></div></section><section id="slide-2" data-anchor-id="slide-2" data-journey-listicle-slide="true" class="css-1rz4ih8 e16kmapv8"><div data-journey-content="true" class="listicle-slides css-13j5f4r e16kmapv7"><div class="css-1l3nada e16kmapv6"><span class="css-baki89 e16kmapv2">2</span><h2 class="css-1w3symk e16kmapv5">Comme des Garçons</h2><div class="css-ihgp0w eutn2uj2"><div class="css-7jdyxr e1nfup6f1"><img srcset="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-908033702-1516435051.jpg?crop=1xw:1xh;center,top&resize=480:* 640w, https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-908033702-1516435051.jpg?crop=1xw:1xh;center,top&resize=980:* 980w" alt="Fashion, Runway, Fashion show, Footwear, Event, Fashion design, Winter, Haute couture, Art, " data-cy="slide-image-2" src="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/gettyimages-908033702-1516435051.jpg?crop=1xw:1xh;center,top&resize=980:*" title="Fashion, Runway, Fashion show, Footwear, Event, Fashion design, Winter, Haute couture, Art, " width="2598" height="3898" decoding="async" loading="lazy"/><figcaption data-theme-key="photo-credit-figcaption" class="css-1am3yn9 e1g9hcy40"><span class="css-td7rmj e1geg53v1">Getty Images</span></figcaption></div></div><div class="css-18oiw2p e16kmapv3"><div class="css-4o5u1 e16kmapv4"><p class="css-1nd4gv7 emevuu60"><em>Jurassic Park</em> incontra <em>2001 Odissea nello spazio</em>. Nel cuore del Thêatre de Chatelet in ristrutturazione sfilano le creature di Comme des Garçons, un po’ animale preistorico un po’ replicante immacolato da sci-fi. Il racconto di Rei Kawakubo è scandito da figure inquietanti, che indossano maschere di panno lenci che mimano le teste scheletriche di rinoceronti e mammuth, di triceratopi, velociraptor e stegosauri. Sono opere speciali realizzate per l’occasione dall’artista Shimoda Masakatsu. Il verbo predicato dalla designer è semplice: “White shock”. Indosso un mix che sconfina nel surreale. Tra fantasie che mimano le pagine di un fumetto e stampe parlanti ingrigite e impolverate. E poi patch dal retrogusto folk ma anche clash cromatici di gran carattere. A pulire lo sguardo il bianco latteo, kubrickiano. Ai piedi Nike immacolate e scarpe create insieme a George Cox. In testa parrucche rococó in cromatismi sbagliati. Per un damerino da navicella spaziale.</p></div></div></div></div></section></section><div data-journey-unblur="true"><div data-journey-unblur="true" class="gpt-breaker-container breaker-ad breaker-ad listicle-slide-list-ad eutn2uj1 css-vroe5m e1spmc110"><div class="ad-disclaimer no-print css-16rzr84 e1caqep90">Pubblicità - Continua a leggere di seguito</div><div id="listicle-ad-breaker-0" class="ad-container css-rbetrv ewg5wdb1"></div></div></div><section data-ad-index="1" class="css-t6ry6e e13lia4i18"><section id="slide-3" data-anchor-id="slide-3" data-journey-listicle-slide="true" class="css-1rz4ih8 e16kmapv8"><div data-journey-content="true" class="listicle-slides css-13j5f4r e16kmapv7"><div class="css-1l3nada e16kmapv6"><span class="css-baki89 e16kmapv2">3</span><h2 class="css-1w3symk e16kmapv5">Alexander McQueen</h2><div class="css-ihgp0w eutn2uj2"><div class="css-7jdyxr e1nfup6f1"><img srcset="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/13b1dbdb-0a38-45a5-a3ae-de08e84f8224-1516472019.jpeg?crop=1.00xw:1.00xh;0,0&resize=480:* 640w, https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/13b1dbdb-0a38-45a5-a3ae-de08e84f8224-1516472019.jpeg?crop=1.00xw:1.00xh;0,0&resize=980:* 980w" alt="Fashion, Fashion model, Runway, Clothing, Fashion show, Haute couture, Event, Coat, Formal wear, Outerwear, " data-cy="slide-image-3" src="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/13b1dbdb-0a38-45a5-a3ae-de08e84f8224-1516472019.jpeg?crop=1.00xw:1.00xh;0,0&resize=980:*" title="Fashion, Fashion model, Runway, Clothing, Fashion show, Haute couture, Event, Coat, Formal wear, Outerwear, " width="647" height="1024" decoding="async" loading="lazy"/><figcaption data-theme-key="photo-credit-figcaption" class="css-1am3yn9 e1g9hcy40"><span class="css-td7rmj e1geg53v1">LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT</span></figcaption></div></div><div class="css-18oiw2p e16kmapv3"><div class="css-4o5u1 e16kmapv4"><p class="css-1nd4gv7 emevuu60">Il racconto di un’eleganza tipicamente british contaminata da un tocco di subcultura modernista. Richiami alla scena musicale rock. Tracce di Savile Row e di un sartoriale fatto a regola d’arte. E poi citazioni agli urban cowboy irlandesi ma anche a un certo savoir faire prezioso, di mani che ricamano e che impreziosiscono i tessuti con frammenti di luce. "Rinnovare i codici del tailoring, trasformarli e renderli nuovi”, parola di Sarah Burton, alla seconda passerella uomo di Alexander McQueen. Per un racconto che unisce quadrettati e damascati, in un'oscillazione tra sobrietà e stravaganza. La prima scandita nei suit da ufficio dalle forme più urbane, la seconda esaltata anche solo dai macro trench annodati in vita e svolazzanti come una gonna. Per arrivare al finale, dove il tuxedo da red carpet ha elementi gym e tracce da tuta active, nonostante sia illuminato dalla luce di jais neri, pronti a disegnare ramages fiorati. </p></div></div></div></div></section><section id="slide-4" data-anchor-id="slide-4" data-journey-listicle-slide="true" class="css-1rz4ih8 e16kmapv8"><div data-journey-content="true" class="listicle-slides css-13j5f4r e16kmapv7"><div class="css-1l3nada e16kmapv6"><span class="css-baki89 e16kmapv2">4</span><h2 class="css-1w3symk e16kmapv5">Junya Watanabe</h2><div class="css-ihgp0w eutn2uj2"><div class="css-7jdyxr e1nfup6f1"><img srcset="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/wat0179-1516435032.jpg?crop=1xw:1xh;center,top&resize=480:* 640w, https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/wat0179-1516435032.jpg?crop=1xw:1xh;center,top&resize=980:* 980w" alt="Fashion, Runway, Fashion show, Yellow, Winter, Public event, Event, Human, Jacket, Outerwear, " data-cy="slide-image-4" src="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/wat0179-1516435032.jpg?crop=1xw:1xh;center,top&resize=980:*" title="Fashion, Runway, Fashion show, Yellow, Winter, Public event, Event, Human, Jacket, Outerwear, " width="2000" height="3000" decoding="async" loading="lazy"/><figcaption data-theme-key="photo-credit-figcaption" class="css-1am3yn9 e1g9hcy40"><span data-theme-key="photo-credit-creditor" class="css-td7rmj e1geg53v2">Courtesy Junya Watanabe</span></figcaption></div></div><div class="css-18oiw2p e16kmapv3"><div class="css-4o5u1 e16kmapv4"><p class="css-1nd4gv7 emevuu60">Funzionalità. Di uno zaino, di un borsone da viaggio che si trasforma in giacca, in coat, in giubbotto. Junya Watanabe scommette sul guardaroba utility per creare il suo autunno inverno 2018 19. E in un parcheggio sotterraneo svela i suoi workers dalle giacche antipioggia, decorate di strisce catarifrangenti. Non un guardaroba ma capi scelti per proteggere e regalare comfort alla figura maschile. Che si tratti di un giubbottone o di un paio di pant, tutto ha il sapore di un urbanwear evoluto. Comprese le collaborazioni di stagione. Con New Balance per le scarpe, con Levi’s per i jeans dal taglio baggy. E poi The North Face e Canada Goose oltre a Karrimor, Filson, Gloverall, Carhartt ed Heinrich Dinkelacker. A delineare una famiglia sempre più grande.</p></div></div></div></div></section><div class="css-1sirylr eutn2uj0"><div class="vertical-ad right-rail-ad listicle--ad-rail css-80uhvq e13lia4i5"><div class="e13lia4i6 css-4z3bwe e19qkiag2"><div id="listicle-ad-rail-0" class="ad-container css-rbetrv ewg5wdb1"></div></div></div></div></section><div data-journey-unblur="true"><div data-journey-unblur="true" class="gpt-breaker-container breaker-ad breaker-ad listicle-slide-list-ad eutn2uj1 css-vroe5m e1spmc110"><div class="ad-disclaimer no-print css-16rzr84 e1caqep90">Pubblicità - Continua a leggere di seguito</div><div id="listicle-ad-breaker-1" class="ad-container css-rbetrv ewg5wdb1"></div></div></div><section data-ad-index="2" class="css-t6ry6e e13lia4i18"><section id="slide-5" data-anchor-id="slide-5" data-journey-listicle-slide="true" class="css-1rz4ih8 e16kmapv8"><div data-journey-content="true" class="listicle-slides css-13j5f4r e16kmapv7"><div class="css-1l3nada e16kmapv6"><span class="css-baki89 e16kmapv2">5</span><h2 class="css-1w3symk e16kmapv5">Berluti</h2><div class="css-ihgp0w eutn2uj2"><div class="css-7jdyxr e1nfup6f1"><img srcset="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/c93062b7-79dc-4d3a-82ef-0efce07345f9-1516442805.jpeg?crop=1xw:0.989242282507016xh;center,top&resize=480:* 640w, https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/c93062b7-79dc-4d3a-82ef-0efce07345f9-1516442805.jpeg?crop=1xw:0.989242282507016xh;center,top&resize=980:* 980w" alt="Fashion model, Fashion show, Runway, Fashion, Clothing, Outerwear, Fashion design, Public event, Coat, Human, " data-cy="slide-image-5" src="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/c93062b7-79dc-4d3a-82ef-0efce07345f9-1516442805.jpeg?crop=1xw:0.989242282507016xh;center,top&resize=980:*" title="Fashion model, Fashion show, Runway, Fashion, Clothing, Outerwear, Fashion design, Public event, Coat, Human, " width="705" height="1069" decoding="async" loading="lazy"/><figcaption data-theme-key="photo-credit-figcaption" class="css-1am3yn9 e1g9hcy40"><span data-theme-key="photo-credit-creditor" class="css-td7rmj e1geg53v2">Courtesy Berluti</span></figcaption></div></div><div class="css-18oiw2p e16kmapv3"><div class="css-4o5u1 e16kmapv4"><p class="css-1nd4gv7 emevuu60">Relax. In una scatola di velluto rosa polvere. Dove tra la nebbia di un mattino di inverno si muovono gli uomini, e qualche donna, in abiti Berluti. "In un mondo in cui tutto è gridato e strillato mi piaceva l’idea di parlare a un uomo calmo. Sereno, cool... Un uomo di oggi ancorato alle sue certezze, che vive nel contemporaneo senza farsi travolgere". Parola di Haider Ackermann che per delineare l’autunno inverno 2018 19 del marchio sceglie un guardaroba di pezzi conosciuti. Lussuosamente semplice nella sua normalità. A dipingere un’eleganza intima e riservata. Fatta di pezzi normali. Che si tratti del trench di pelle caramello o di un antipioggia superlight, di un cappotto in shearling nuvola o di un abito tagliato in sartoria, di un giubbino in pellame luxury o di un cappotto costruito in sartoria. Per delineare una semplicità a cinque stelle lusso.</p></div></div></div></div></section><div class="css-1sirylr eutn2uj0"><div class="vertical-ad right-rail-ad listicle--ad-rail css-80uhvq e13lia4i5"><div class="e13lia4i6 css-4z3bwe e19qkiag2"><div id="listicle-ad-rail-1" class="ad-container css-rbetrv ewg5wdb1"></div></div></div></div></section><section class="css-t6ry6e e13lia4i18"><div data-journey-blur="partial" class="css-1e54vvi e13lia4i9"><div class="css-16s525c e13lia4i8"></div></div></section></div><section data-lazy-id="P0-7"><div data-embed="watch-next" class="css-es6uyf e1a8voem5"><div data-journey-blur="partial" class="css-604vx7 e1a8voem4"><div class="css-1sowyjy e1a8voem3"><h6 class="css-7gp89l e1a8voem2"><span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-before" class="css-0 eagam8p0"></span><span class="css-0 e1a8voem1">Watch Next</span><span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-after" class="css-0 eagam8p1"></span></h6><h6 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e1c1bym14"><div class="css-ftsoqv ee4ms351"><img src="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/van-noten-1517498085.jpg?crop=0.502xw:1.00xh;0.423xw,0&resize=360:*" alt="People, Event, Fashion, Fun, Performance, Musical ensemble, Crowd, " title="People, Event, Fashion, Fun, Performance, Musical ensemble, Crowd, " width="100%" height="auto" decoding="async" loading="lazy"/></div><div data-theme-key="custom-item-content" class="css-1fxbbik ee4ms350"><p data-theme-key="custom-item-title" class="css-x91oc9 e10ip9lg6"><span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-before" class="css-0 eagam8p0"></span><span data-theme-key="custom-item-title-text" class="css-w4kh8a e10ip9lg5">Il video ipnotico delle stampe di Dries Van Noten</span><span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-after" class="css-0 eagam8p1"></span></p></div></a><a data-theme-key="custom-item" href="/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15854527/dior-homme-autunno-inverno-2018-2019-foto/" label 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data-vars-cta="4 Across Block 1" data-vars-ga-position="2" data-vars-ga-call-to-action="L'ultima giornata di Parigi Moda Uomo su Instagram" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15384306/parigi-moda-uomo-autunno-inverno-2018-instagram/" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Transporter" class="ee4ms352 css-191dage e1c1bym14"><div class="css-ftsoqv ee4ms351"><img src="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/collage-1516578901.jpg?crop=0.460xw:1.00xh;0.0272xw,0&resize=360:*" alt="Fashion, Event, Eyewear, Performance, Street fashion, Fashion design, " title="Fashion, Event, Eyewear, Performance, Street fashion, Fashion design, " width="100%" height="auto" decoding="async" loading="lazy"/></div><div data-theme-key="custom-item-content" class="css-1fxbbik ee4ms350"><p data-theme-key="custom-item-title" class="css-x91oc9 e10ip9lg6"><span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-before" class="css-0 eagam8p0"></span><span data-theme-key="custom-item-title-text" class="css-w4kh8a e10ip9lg5">L'ultima giornata di Parigi Moda Uomo su Instagram</span><span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-after" class="css-0 eagam8p1"></span></p></div></a><a data-theme-key="custom-item" href="/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15384353/parigi-moda-uomo-autunno-inverno-2018-19-streetstyle/" label data-vars-cta="4 Across Block 2" data-vars-ga-position="3" data-vars-ga-call-to-action="Il meglio dello streetstyle da Parigi" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15384353/parigi-moda-uomo-autunno-inverno-2018-19-streetstyle/" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Transporter" class="ee4ms352 css-191dage e1c1bym14"><div class="css-ftsoqv ee4ms351"><img src="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/paris-m-str-rf18-6050-1516579111.jpg?crop=0.668xw:1.00xh;0.167xw,0&resize=360:*" alt="Street fashion, Red, Photograph, Clothing, Fashion, Snapshot, Pink, Street, Footwear, Human, " title="Street fashion, 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data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15376332/moda-uomo-a-parigi-il-meglio-della-quarta-giornata-in-4-show/" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Transporter" class="ee4ms352 css-191dage e1c1bym14"><div class="css-ftsoqv ee4ms351"><img src="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/dior-homme-winter-2018-19-group-shot-c-danko-steiner-ext-1516525296.jpg?crop=0.415xw:1.00xh;0.292xw,0&resize=360:*" alt="Social group, Team, Event, Uniform, Crew, Performance, Official, Musical ensemble, Choir, " title="Social group, Team, Event, Uniform, Crew, Performance, Official, Musical ensemble, Choir, " width="100%" height="auto" decoding="async" loading="lazy"/></div><div data-theme-key="custom-item-content" class="css-1fxbbik ee4ms350"><p data-theme-key="custom-item-title" class="css-x91oc9 e10ip9lg6"><span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-before" class="css-0 eagam8p0"></span><span data-theme-key="custom-item-title-text" class="css-w4kh8a e10ip9lg5">Parigi, il meglio del quarto giorno di sfilate</span><span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-after" class="css-0 eagam8p1"></span></p></div></a></div></section><section class="css-1l0vm3i ezpcz1b0"><div data-theme-key="four-across-layout" class="css-2pe60q ezpcz1b1"><a data-theme-key="custom-item" href="/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15376287/moda-uomo-autunno-inverno-2018-2019-instagram-foto/" label data-vars-cta="4 Across Block 0" data-vars-ga-position="1" data-vars-ga-call-to-action="Parigi Moda Uomo, il giorno 4 su Instagram" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15376287/moda-uomo-autunno-inverno-2018-2019-instagram-foto/" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Transporter" class="ee4ms352 css-191dage e1c1bym14"><div class="css-ftsoqv ee4ms351"><img src="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/copllage-1516524306.jpg?crop=0.505xw:1.00xh;0,0&resize=360:*" alt="Footwear, Shoe, Leather, Jacket, Street fashion, Carmine, Athletic shoe, 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width="100%" height="auto" decoding="async" loading="lazy"/></div><div data-theme-key="custom-item-content" class="css-1fxbbik ee4ms350"><p data-theme-key="custom-item-title" class="css-x91oc9 e10ip9lg6"><span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-before" class="css-0 eagam8p0"></span><span data-theme-key="custom-item-title-text" class="css-w4kh8a e10ip9lg5">Lo stile di Parigi durante le sfilate del menswear</span><span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-after" class="css-0 eagam8p1"></span></p></div></a><a data-theme-key="custom-item" href="/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15376306/moda-uomo-autunno-inverno-2018-parigi-backstage/" label data-vars-cta="4 Across Block 3" data-vars-ga-position="4" data-vars-ga-call-to-action="Parigi, il backstage dal quarto giorno" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/g15376306/moda-uomo-autunno-inverno-2018-parigi-backstage/" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Transporter" class="ee4ms352 css-191dage e1c1bym14"><div class="css-ftsoqv ee4ms351"><img src="https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/browne-m-bks-rf18-6137-1516494582.jpg?crop=0.668xw:1.00xh;0.332xw,0&resize=360:*" alt="Red, Plaid, Design, Tartan, Pattern, " title="Red, Plaid, Design, Tartan, Pattern, " width="100%" height="auto" decoding="async" loading="lazy"/></div><div data-theme-key="custom-item-content" class="css-1fxbbik ee4ms350"><p data-theme-key="custom-item-title" class="css-x91oc9 e10ip9lg6"><span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-before" class="css-0 eagam8p0"></span><span data-theme-key="custom-item-title-text" class="css-w4kh8a e10ip9lg5">Parigi, il backstage dal quarto giorno</span><span aria-hidden="true" data-theme-key="title-design-element-after" class="css-0 eagam8p1"></span></p></div></a></div></section><div data-journey-unblur="true" class="gpt-breaker-container breaker-ad css-h7nhlk e1spmc110"><div class="ad-disclaimer no-print css-1ujyslc e1caqep90">Pubblicità - Continua a 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