백종원·안성재는 한 입 먹어보고 정말 ‘딱!’ 느꼈을까? [The 5]

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The 5가 묻고 기자가 답합니다.<br><br>지난 8일 막을 내린 넷플릭스 요리경연 ‘흑백요리사’의 인기가 여전히 뜨겁습니다. 우승자 권성준 셰프(나폴리맛피아)가 운영하는 식당엔 모바일 애플리케이션 예약이 시작되자마자 10만명 넘는 인원이 몰렸습니다. 출연 셰프와 편의점이 협업한 제품도 예약이 매진됐습니다. 심사위원과 참여자 중 미슐랭(미쉐린) 별을 단 식당의 셰프가 많아서 미슐랭까지 덩달아 관심을 받고 있는데요. 푸드 저널리스트 박미향 기자에게 흑백요리사 관람평과 함께 미슐랭의 세계에 대해 물어봤습니다.<br><br>(한겨레 ‘오늘의 스페셜’ 연재 구독하기)<br><br><strong style="display: block; margin: 20px 0; font-weight: 900; font-size: 22px; line-height: 1.3; letter-spacing: normal; color: #111; word-break: keep-all; word-wrap: break-word; padding: 18px 0; border-top: 1px solid #707070; border-bottom: 1px solid #707070; ">[The 1] 흑백요리사 봤나요? 어땠어요?</strong><br><b>박미향 기자:</b> 사실 처음엔 계급이라는 단어가 거슬렸어요. 중식, 양식, 한식 등 요리 분야는 완전 다른 세상이거든요. ‘공정한 잣대가 과연 가능할까’라는 의문이 들었죠. 더군다나 음식에 점수를 매기거나 ‘레스토랑 줄 세우기’ 하는 게 이젠 큰 의미가 없는 일이거든요. 누구나 자기만의 최고의 식당이 있기 마련이니까요.<br><br>그런데 막상 보니까 계급은 예능적 장치일 뿐이고 장점이 많은 프로그램이더라고요. 요리란 무엇인가. 요리사가 새로운 음식을 만들 때 어떤 노력을 들이는가. 세상에 없는 요리는 어떤 과정을 거쳐 만들어지는가. 요리사는 아티스트처럼 예술적 감성까지 가진 이들이라는 걸 잘 보여줬잖아요. 식재료를 고르는 것부터 섬세한 손질까지 잘 보여줬고, 소스 하나를 바꾸는 게 맛에 어떤 영향을 미치는지도 사람들이 보면서 알게 됐고요. 요리사가 갖춰야 할 가장 중요한 덕목이 체력이라는 것도요. 여기에 수익을 내야 하니 비즈니스적인 감도 장착해야 하는 사람이 요리사란 점도 알게 됐죠. 덕분에 사람들이 요리에 관심을 갖게 됐고, 요리사라는 직업도 잘 이해하게 된 거 같아서 좋아요.<br><br>참여했던 셰프들은 요즘 경기 탓에 외식업이 안 좋았는데 도움이 됐다고 하더라고요. <b>침체한 외식업에 붐</b>을 일으키는 데 큰 역할을 하고 있다고요. 다만, 여기에 나온 식당들 말고 다른 식당들에까지 관심이 다 번져갔으면 좋겠다고 하더군요. 저도 같은 생각인데, 사실 이 점은 조금 물음표예요. 흑수저 식당들도 본래 영업이 잘 되는 곳이에요. 몰리는 데만 더 몰리는 상황이 되지 않을까 하는 걱정이 앞서긴 해요.<br><br><span class="end_photo_org"><div class="nbd_im_w _LAZY_LOADING_WRAP "> <div class="nbd_a _LAZY_LOADING_ERROR_HIDE" id="img_a2"> <img id="img2" data-src="https://imgnews.pstatic.net/image/028/2024/10/11/0002710976_002_20241012121206922.jpg?type=w860" class="_LAZY_LOADING _LAZY_LOADING_INIT_HIDE" alt="미쉐린 가이드" style="display: none;" /> </div> </div><em class="img_desc">미쉐린 가이드</em></span><br><strong style="display: block; margin: 20px 0; font-weight: 900; font-size: 22px; line-height: 1.3; letter-spacing: normal; color: #111; word-break: keep-all; word-wrap: break-word; padding: 18px 0; border-top: 1px solid #707070; border-bottom: 1px solid #707070; ">[The 2] 음식을 입에 넣으면 백종원, 안성재 심사위원처럼 ‘딱!’ 느낌이 오나요?</strong><br><b>박미향 기자:</b> 맛에 대한 경험치를 엄청 늘린 사람은 먹으면 판단할 수 있어요. 저도 20년 넘게 굉장히 많은 음식을 먹었는데요. <b>딱 먹으면 셰프가 탄탄하게 기초 실력을 닦은 사람인지 아닌지, 허세로 그럴싸하게 유명 요리사 흉내만 낸 건 아닌지 정도는 구별</b>이 돼요. 결국 공부랑 똑같아요. 많이 먹다 보면 알게 되는 거죠. 이 사람이 조리 기술을 잘 연마해 기초가 단단한 사람인가, 독학으로 노력해 실력을 쌓은 사람인가, 천재과로 타고난 요리사인가, 중구난방으로 하거나 유명한 사람을 흉내 낸 건 아닌가….<br><br>‘맛은 주관적이다’, ‘나에게 맛있는 게 당신에게는 맛이 없을 수 있지 않나’ 하는 의문을 제기할 수도 있는데, 틀린 말은 아니에요. 이런 생각은 좀 다른 영역인 거 같아요. 안성재 셰프나 백종원 대표처럼 이른바 ‘업’으로 하는 이들 세계와 다른 거죠. 일로 음식을 보는 이는 확실한 판단 기준이 있어야 하고, 이는 공부하듯 노력하면 실력이 느는 거죠. 저도 음식이 ‘일’인 사람이고요. 이번에 흑백요리사를 보면서 떨어질 셰프를 어느 정도는 맞췄는데요. 저 사람은 보고 들은 게 저 정도겠구나, 그래서 저 정도의 음식을 만드는구나, 양념을 저 정도로 올리면 맛의 조화가 깨질 텐데…. <b>떨어질 셰프들이 보이더라</b>고요.<br><br><strong style="display: block; margin: 20px 0; font-weight: 900; font-size: 22px; line-height: 1.3; letter-spacing: normal; color: #111; word-break: keep-all; word-wrap: break-word; padding: 18px 0; border-top: 1px solid #707070; border-bottom: 1px solid #707070; ">[The 3] 흑백요리사를 보니까 ‘미슐랭 1스타’도 대단한 거더라고요. 미슐랭은 뭔가요? 어떻게 평가하죠?</strong><br><b>박미향 기자:</b> 프랑스 타이어 회사 미쉐린이 매년 발간하는 식당 평가서에요. 1스타는 요리가 훌륭한 곳, 2스타는 요리가 훌륭해서 멀리 찾아갈 만한 곳이에요. 대망의 <b>3스타는 요리가 매우 훌륭해 특별한 여행을 떠날 가치가 있는 곳</b>을 뜻해요. 그 식당 방문을 목적으로 다른 나라에서 찾아갈 법하단 거죠.<br><br>레스토랑이 미슐랭 별을 받으면 비즈니스에 도움이 돼요. 대부분 수익 창출로 이어지거든요. 손님이 느는 것뿐만 아니라, 거대한 기업이나 세계적 브랜드들과 협업 비즈니스가 많아질 수 있어요. 미슐랭 별은 확실히 보증 수표가 되죠. 요샌 자본가가 레스토랑에 투자해 수익을 보려고도 하는데요. 자기 돈을 잘 불려줄 유명 셰프를 필요로 하기도 하고요. 그들에게 미슐랭 별은 하나의 조건이 되기도 해요.<br><br>한국에선 2016년 서울편이 출시되며 평가가 시작됐어요. 당시 한식당 라연과 가온이 첫 3스타를 달며 화제를 모았죠. 지난 2월엔 두 번째 도시로 부산이 선정됐어요. 올해 기준 국내 미슐랭 식당은 서울에 177개, 부산에 43개 있고요. 평가원이 누군지는 알 수 없어요. 2016년 처음 미슐랭 가이드가 출간될 당시, 셰프들 사이에서 소문은 있었어요. ‘프랑스 사람 한 명과 한국인 한 명이 다니는데, 저 사람들 아니냐?’ 이런 짐작이요. 하지만 확인은 안 됐죠. 지금도 마찬가지고요.<br><br>옛날에는 미슐랭에 아주 확실한 권위가 있었어요. 별 수가 떨어진 셰프가 자살하는 사건이 있었을 정도로요. 하지만 지금은 참고할 만한 정보라고 보는 게 맞을 거 같아요. 미슐랭 식당에 굉장히 많이 가봤지만, 어떤 곳은 제가 느끼기에 왜 별을 받았지? 여긴 아닌데? 싶은 곳도 있었거든요. <b>여행자의 관점에서 여행 기간에 한 끼 정도는 고급식을 먹고 싶어지잖아요. 그럴 때 참고</b>가 된다고 보면 좋아요.<br><br><strong style="display: block; margin: 20px 0; font-weight: 900; font-size: 22px; line-height: 1.3; letter-spacing: normal; color: #111; word-break: keep-all; word-wrap: break-word; padding: 18px 0; border-top: 1px solid #707070; border-bottom: 1px solid #707070; ">[The 4] 미슐랭 식당 중엔 ‘파인 다이닝’이 많더라고요. 정확히 뭐죠?</strong><br><b>박미향 기자:</b> 셰프가 질 좋은 식재료로 만든 음식을 최상급 서비스로 제공하는 식당을 뜻하는데요. 기본적으로 서양에서 온 식문화예요. 사실 파인다이닝은 우리와는 조금 잘 안 맞기도 해요. 대부분의 파인다이닝은 7~14 코스로 구성돼요. 와인과 함께해야 하고요. 보통 식사 시간이 4~5시간 넘게 걸리죠. 반면 우리나라는 한 상 차림이 중심이잖아요. 한 번에 차려 먹고 치우는 식이요. 우린 반찬 문화 국가고요. 밥상의 음식을 나눠 먹는 식이잖아요. 음식을 하나씩 각자 받는 서양식 식문화와는 조금 다르죠.<br><br><b>파인다이닝은 한 끼에 저녁 기준 25~30만원</b> 정도 하는데요. 이번에 흑백요리사를 봐도, 한 접시를 만들려고 (남은) 식재료를 다 버리기도 하잖아요. 재료 로스(손실)가 많아요. 또 가장 좋은 재료를 쓰려고 하고 인건비도 많이 들어요. 아무리 작은 파인다이닝이어도 주방에 셰프를 중심으로 7~8명은 있고 소믈리에(레스토랑에서 손님이 주문한 요리와 어울리는 와인을 추천하는 전문가)도 반드시 있어야 해요. 직원이 최소 10명은 돼야 하는 거죠. 여기에 고급스러운 인테리어 비용도 만만치 않게 들어가요. 그게 다 음식 값에 들어가는 거죠.<br><br><span class="end_photo_org"><div class="nbd_im_w _LAZY_LOADING_WRAP "> <div class="nbd_a _LAZY_LOADING_ERROR_HIDE" id="img_a3"> <img id="img3" data-src="https://imgnews.pstatic.net/image/028/2024/10/11/0002710976_003_20241012121206952.jpg?type=w860" class="_LAZY_LOADING _LAZY_LOADING_INIT_HIDE" alt="서울시 송파구 ‘소피텔 앰배서더 서울’의 은대구 요리. 박미향 기자" style="display: none;" /> </div> </div><em class="img_desc">서울시 송파구 ‘소피텔 앰배서더 서울’의 은대구 요리. 박미향 기자</em></span><br><strong style="display: block; margin: 20px 0; font-weight: 900; font-size: 22px; line-height: 1.3; letter-spacing: normal; color: #111; word-break: keep-all; word-wrap: break-word; padding: 18px 0; border-top: 1px solid #707070; border-bottom: 1px solid #707070; ">[The 5] 국내 1호 미슐랭 3스타인 가온이 작년에 폐업했잖아요. 흑백요리사 심사위원 안성재 셰프의 3스타 모수는 휴업 중이고요. 파인다이닝 운영이 쉽지 않은 걸까요?</strong><br><b>박미향 기자:</b> 사실 식당이 문을 닫는 건 그렇게 큰일이 아니에요. 셰프 개인 사정이 있을 수 있고, 물론 수익 때문일 수도 있고요. 가온은 화요를 만드는 회사 ‘광주요’가 운영한 파인다이닝인데 회사 사정이 있었던 거 같아요. 안성재 셰프의 모수는 특이한 케이스입니다. 씨제이(CJ)제일제당과 계약이 끝났는데 연장이 안 된 것에 가까워요. 이걸 경영난으로 인한 파인다이닝 폐업의 케이스로 봐도 될지는 의문이에요.<br><br>한국에 파인다이닝이란 이름을 붙일 식당이 그렇게 많지는 않아요. 전체 외식업계에서 보면요. <b>코로나를 겪으면서 파인다이닝 시장도 양극화</b>가 심해졌죠. 많이 가는 탑 식당들에는 엄청 몰리고, 다른 곳은 운영이 힘들어요. 그래서 조금 더 대중적인 음식으로 세컨드 브랜드를 낸 오너 셰프도 있고, 아예 폐업하고 햄버거나 간편식을 내는 쪽으로 방향을 잡은 이도 있어요.<br><br>아직 안정적으로 자리 잡았다고 볼 수 없지만 성장 가능성은 있다고 봐요. 물론 비관론도 많지만요. 일단 우리나라 요리사들의 실력이 매우 출중해요. 최근 몇 년간 부쩍 성장했지요. 특히 한국에 여행 오려는 외국인이 많아지고 있는 점이 주목되는데요. 코로나 때 침체됐지만, 요즘 한국이 외국인들 사이 힙한 여행지가 됐잖아요. 케이(K)팝 콘텐츠의 인기 때문에요. 한국 미슐랭에 올라간 고급 파인다이닝도 한번 경험해보고 싶다! 이런 니즈(수요)가 있어요. 여행은 보는 것 이상으로 먹는 게 중요하니까요. 흑백요리사의 인기도 여기에 기여할 거로 보여요.<br><br><b>▶[The 5]에 다 담지 못한 맛 평가의 세계를 휘클리에서 읽어보세요. 주간 뉴스레터 휘클리 구독하기. 검색창에 ‘휘클리’를 쳐보세요.</b><br><br> </article> </div> <div class="byline"> <p class="byline_p"> <span class="byline_s">송경화 기자 freehwa@hani.co.kr, 권지담 기자 gonji@hani.co.kr</span> </p> </div> <div class="newsct_journalist"> <div class="newsct_journalist_inner"> <h4 class="blind">기자 프로필</h4> <div class="media_journalistcard _JOURNALIST_CARD _MORE_WRAP"> <div id="JOURNALIST_CARD_LIST" class="media_journalistcard_inner"> <div class="media_journalistcard_item _SUBSCRIBE_ELE" data-subscribe-type="JOURNALIST" data-current-subscribe="true"> <div class="media_journalistcard_item_inner"> <div class="media_journalistcard_intro"> <div class="media_journalistcard_summary"> <span class="media_journalistcard_summary_press _LAZY_LOADING_WRAP" data-show-type="block"> <img data-src="https://mimgnews.pstatic.net/image/upload/office_logo/028/2024/02/26/logo_028_6_20240226102940.png" height="24" alt="한겨레" title="" class="media_journalistcard_summary_press_img light_type _LAZY_LOADING _LAZY_LOADING_INIT_HIDE _LAZY_LOADING_ERROR_HIDE" style="display:none;"> <em class="media_journalistcard_summary_press_text light_type _LAZY_LOADING_ERROR_SHOW" style="display: none;">한겨레</em> <img data-src="https://mimgnews.pstatic.net/image/upload/office_logo/028/2024/02/26/dark_logo_028_6_20240226102955.png" 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alt=""></span><em>한겨레</em>가 이 기사의 댓글 정책을 결정합니다. <span class="changecmt_info"> <button type="button" class="changecmt_info_icon _layer_notice_btn _TOGGLE" data-target="_COMMENT_NOTICE_INFO_LAYER" data-classValue="is_hidden">안내</button><span id="_COMMENT_NOTICE_INFO_LAYER" class="changecmt_layer _layer_notice is_hidden"> <strong class="changecmt_info_title"><span class="changecmt_ico_help"></span>댓글 정책 언론사별 선택제</strong> <span class="changecmt_info_txt">섹션별로 기사의 댓글 제공여부와 정렬방식을 <br>언론사가 직접 결정합니다. 기사 섹션 정보가<br>정치/선거를 포함하는 경우 정치/선거섹션 정책이<br>적용됩니다. 단, 운영규정에 따른<br>삭제나 이용제한 조치는 네이버가 직접<br>수행합니다.</span> <button class="changecmt_btn_info_close _close_layer _TOGGLE" data-target="_COMMENT_NOTICE_INFO_LAYER" data-classValue="is_hidden">레이어 닫기</button> </span> </span> </p> </div> <div id="cbox_module" class="_COMMENT _COMMENT_HIDE"> </div><div class="rankingnews mobile_hidden is_hidden _TEMPLATE" data-grid-template-column-aside="true" data-template-id="OFFICE_HEADLINE_FLAT"> <div class="ra_head"> 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type="x-tmpl-mustache" class="_MODAL_LAYER_TEMPLATE_FOR_NOTIFICATION_ALL"> <div class="m_dimmed"></div> <div class="m_notification"> <strong class="mn_ok">구독완료</strong> <div class="mn_text"> <h4 class="mn_h">언론사의 주요 뉴스를 <br> <span class="m_em">알림</span>으로 받아 보시겠습니까?</h4> <ul class="mn_list"> {{#officeInfos}} <li class="mn_item"> <div class="mn_head"> <div class="mn_img"> <img src="{{logo}}" alt="" onerror="this.outerHTML='<span class="no_image"></span>'"> </div> <div class="mn_name">{{officeName}}</div> </div> <div class="mn_body"> <button type="button" class="mn_noti _ALL_OFFICES_NOTIFICATION_ITEM" data-oid="{{officeId}}" data-clk-add="notchnon" data-clk-remove="notchnoff">알림받기 사용함</button> </div> </li> {{/officeInfos}} </ul> </div> <div class="mn_btns"> <button type="button" class="mn_btn _MODAL_LAYER_NEGATIVE" data-clk="{{nclk}}no">닫기</button> <button type="button" class="mn_btn as_em _MODAL_LAYER_POSITIVE _CHANNEL_BANNER_ITEM_NOTICE_COMPLETE" data-clk="{{nclk}}yes">완료</button> 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class="nds_dialog_text">{{content.title}}</p> {{/isTextType}} {{#isTitleType}} <strong class="nds_dialog_title"> <span class="nds_dialog_title_ellipsis">{{content.headTitle}}</span> {{content.title}} </strong> <p class="nds_dialog_description">{{content.description}}</p> {{/isTitleType}} </div> <div class="nds_dialog_button_area"> <div class="nds_button_main_action as_layout_5_5"> {{#isCancel}} <button type="button" class="nds_button_wide _MODAL_CANCEL"{{#content.clk.cancelClk}} data-clk="{{content.clk.cancelClk}}"{{/content.clk.cancelClk}}> {{content.cancelMessage}} </button> {{/isCancel}} <button type="button" class="nds_button_wide as_primary _MODAL_CONFIRM"{{#content.clk.confirmClk}} data-clk="{{content.clk.confirmClk}}"{{/content.clk.confirmClk}}> {{content.confirmMessage}} </button> </div> </div> </div> </div> </script> <div id="_MODAL_TOAST" style="display: none;"></div> <script type="x-tmpl-mustache" class="_MODAL_TOAST_TEMPLATE"> <div class="nds_popover_toast as_center"> <div class="nds_toast_text_area"> <div class="nds_toast_text_area"><span class="nds_toast_ellipsis_text"><strong>{{toastTitle}}</strong></span> {{toastMessage}}</div> </div> </div> </script> <div id="_TICKER_LAYER_FOR_NOTIFICATION" class="ticker" style="display: none;"></div> <script type="x-tmpl-mustache" class="_TICKER_LAYER_TEMPLATE_FOR_NOTIFICATION"> {{#officeInfos}} <p class="t_inner"><em class="t_point">{{officeName}}</em> 언론사 알림이 설정되었습니다.</p> {{/officeInfos}} </script> <script src="https://static-nnews.pstatic.net/js/min/20250227/library.min.js" crossorigin="anonymous" onerror="neloSender.sendErrorToNelo('스크립트 로딩 에러 : ' + this.src);"></script> <script src="https://static-nnews.pstatic.net/js/min/20250227/read.min.js" crossorigin="anonymous" onerror="neloSender.sendErrorToNelo('스크립트 로딩 에러 : ' + this.src);"></script> <script> window.ntm = window.ntm || []; var ntmOption = {}; if (ntmOption) { var section = {"id":"103","name":"생활"}; var redirectSection = {"id":"103","name":"생활"}; 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