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<!DOCTYPE html><html lang="en-US"><head><title>Watch This Korean Spot is LA’s Hottest New Restaurant | On The Line | Bon Appétit</title><meta charSet="utf-8"/><meta content="IE=edge" http-equiv="X-UA-Compatible"/><meta name="msapplication-tap-highlight" content="no"/><meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"/><meta name="author" content="Condé Nast"/><meta name="copyright" content="Copyright (c) Condé Nast 2024"/><meta name="description" content="“People say this is inspired by Buddhist temple cuisine. I try to reflect and put that spirit into what we are doing.” Today, Bon Appétit spends a day on the line with Chef Kwang Uh, co-owner of Baroo in Los Angeles. After gaining a loyal following during their first iteration in a mini mall, Baroo has returned after a few years away with a sophisticated tasting menu and a much bigger venue, earning the title of LA Times' best restaurant of the year during their first year back."/><meta name="id"/><meta name="keywords" content=""/><meta name="news_keywords" content=""/><meta name="robots" content="index, follow, noarchive, max-image-preview:large"/><meta name="content-type" content="video"/><meta name="parsely-post-id"/><meta name="parsely-metadata" content="{"description":"“People say this is inspired by Buddhist temple cuisine. I try to reflect and put that spirit into what we are doing.” Today, Bon Appétit spends a day on the line with Chef Kwang Uh, co-owner of Baroo in Los Angeles. After gaining a loyal following during their first iteration in a mini mall, Baroo has returned after a few years away with a sophisticated tasting menu and a much bigger venue, earning the title of LA Times' best restaurant of the year during their first year back."}"/><meta property="og:description" content=""/><meta property="og:image" content="https://dwgyu36up6iuz.cloudfront.net/heru80fdn/image/upload/c_fill,d_placeholder_bonappetit.png,fl_progressive,g_face,h_1080,q_80,w_1920/v1730135199/bonappetit_ba-on-the-line-baroo.jpg"/><meta property="og:site_name" content="Bon Appétit"/><meta property="og:title" content="This Korean Spot is LA’s Hottest New Restaurant"/><meta property="og:type" content="video"/><meta property="og:url" content="https://www.bonappetit.com/video/watch/on-the-line-this-korean-spot-is-las-best-new-restaurant"/><meta property="article:content_tier" content="free"/><meta http-equiv="content-language" content="en-US"/><meta property="article:author" content="Condé 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inspired by Buddhist temple cuisine. I try to reflect and put that spirit into what we are doing.” Today, Bon Appétit spends a day on the line with Chef Kwang Uh, co-owner of Baroo in Los Angeles. After gaining a loyal following during their first iteration in a mini mall, Baroo has returned after a few years away with a sophisticated tasting menu and a much bigger venue, earning the title of LA Times' best restaurant of the year during their first year back. ","thumbnailUrl":["https://dwgyu36up6iuz.cloudfront.net/heru80fdn/image/upload/c_fill,d_placeholder_bonappetit.png,fl_progressive,g_face,h_1080,q_80,w_1920/v1730135199/bonappetit_ba-on-the-line-baroo.jpg"],"uploadDate":"2024-10-29T16:00:00Z","duration":"PT00H13M35S"}</script><figure class="CneVideoEmbedFigure-kCfJjN cXJJqp cne-video-embed"><div id="video-container" data-testid="script-container"></div></figure></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK ieHMWX grid grid-items-1"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--item grid-layout__details"><div><ul data-test="SeriesRubricWrapper" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ SeriesRubricWrapper-hXyKBk iUEiRd kRuYgY egwoVl"><li><a href="/video/series/on-the-line">On The Line</a></li><li><span aria-hidden="true"> | </span></li><li>Season 1</li><li><span aria-hidden="true"> | </span></li><li>Episode 45</li></ul><h1 class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GridDetailsHed-gvhQzS iUEiRd bgGAQZ hed">This Korean Spot is LA’s Hottest New Restaurant</h1><div class="TabsWrapper-dIUrJy WGGxK tabs-component TabAndTabSectionWrapper-fDshys bLiyrJ align-left" role="tablist"><nav aria-label="Secondary" tabindex="-1" class="NavigationWrapper-bFftAs dhaCkX" data-testid="navigation"><ul class="NavigationListWrapper-gWXLVS xcFFY navigation__list" data-testid="navigation__list"><li class="NavigationListItemWrapper-cxLZKD eyFDxF navigation__list-item" data-testid="navigation__list-item"><a role="tab" tabindex="0" aria-selected="true" class="NavigationInternalLink-cWEaeo bqehMO watch-page--tab-link watch-page--tab-link--active watch-page--tab-link--disabled navigation__link" href="#about" data-testid="navigation__internal-link">About</a></li></ul></nav><span class="NavigationDivider-fEDnwq ixXXMs navigation__divider"></span><div class="TabsContentWrapper-jnMXFX bWCRYg"><div role="tabpanel" tabindex="0" class="TabsPanel-dugBWX bQJFHA"><div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ About-dxeYVs iUEiRd jVkrac kpScjZ"><div>“People say this is inspired by Buddhist temple cuisine. I try to reflect and put that spirit into what we are doing.” Today, Bon Appétit spends a day on the line with Chef Kwang Uh, co-owner of Baroo in Los Angeles. After gaining a loyal following during their first iteration in a mini mall, Baroo has returned after a few years away with a sophisticated tasting menu and a much bigger venue, earning the title of LA Times' best restaurant of the year during their first year back. </div><p class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ AboutDate-iizOQc iUEiRd jAXOro fCmonT">Released on 10/29/2024</p></div><div class="TranscriptWrapper-hGQQXY eVMnyn"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ TranscriptHeading-hfjqKn bmzxCs jrbRwr">Transcript</div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ TranscriptSectionWrapper-AzyBZ iUEiRd bgGAQZ ihiywf"><p>[bright cheery music]</p><p>Baroo is a modern Korean restaurant.</p><p>People say this is inspired by Buddhist temple cuisine,</p><p>I try to reflect and I try to put that spirit</p><p>into what we are doing.</p><p>Fermentation is really integral part of cooking in Baroo,</p><p>because all the dish has at least one fermented ingredients.</p><p>As a restaurant chef and owner,</p><p>having tasting menu restaurant is all the time my dream.</p><p>I try to keep it inspiring for everyone,</p><p>including me and our team and our guest.</p><p>[bright cheery music]</p><p>Hello, my name is Kwang, and this is my wife, Mina Park,</p><p>we are running the restaurant together, Baroo, in LA.</p><p>We have a lot of things to do today, so let's get going.</p><p>[bright cheery music]</p><p>So this is Baroo, and to me, it's very luxurious</p><p>than previous restaurant right next to 7-Eleven,</p><p>which had only three people working</p><p>and then very small space.</p><p>When people from the old Baroo come, they say,</p><p>Oh, this is so different.</p><p>Yes, it's so different.</p><p>It's 8:30 in the morning,</p><p>as head chef, I'm the first to arrive here.</p><p>When I first come in the morning,</p><p>I check everything is in place and then make it tidy.</p><p>People say like control freak, yeah, it used to happen,</p><p>now I kind of try to let it go.</p><p>Just checking the walk-in cooler.</p><p>So this is produce, this is cold, hot,</p><p>and family, and this fermentation.</p><p>Sometime it's a little bit messed up,</p><p>but today is pretty good.</p><p>Also, this is service station.</p><p>This is kind of my time to wake up for the day,</p><p>also Buddhist monk said,</p><p>Every part of your life is kind of meditation.</p><p>So to me, it's not really matter,</p><p>I really prefer like this way.</p><p>All the leftover napkin,</p><p>we are doing laundry at home, Mina and me.</p><p>So we have a whiteboard, we write down something we need,</p><p>and then we go shopping.</p><p>There wasn't too much stuff, just few things today.</p><p>We got Korean melon,</p><p>with this we are making dongchimi</p><p>which is kind of Korean radish kimchi.</p><p>We got some beef short rib,</p><p>when you go to Korean market, there are a lot of scrub</p><p>and you can get really cheap price.</p><p>So, Shaun, this is kind of urgent,</p><p>so we need to take out all the blood,</p><p>so we need to put some sugar and then cold water,</p><p>we need to soak it.</p><p>And then this is just kind of family meal.</p><p>And then also we have kid,</p><p>this is his paper he did last night,</p><p>so he ask, please put this one in his desk.</p><p>Everything looks good and tidy,</p><p>so now it's the time to see our AM team.</p><p>In the morning, they are usually doing all kinds of sauce,</p><p>all kinds of prep, which takes lot of time and labor.</p><p>There's only two people.</p><p>So now we are making bugak,</p><p>bugak is kind of Korean traditional snack,</p><p>this is a very expensive seaweed imported from Korea.</p><p>We are spreading the rice porridge,</p><p>and then we have giant fan setting up there,</p><p>and then we gonna dehydrate.</p><p>Once completely dehydrated,</p><p>we deep fry, and then that rice porridge is popped up,</p><p>and that is gonna make crispy snack.</p><p>He is the master of doing this,</p><p>so I don't even need to check.</p><p>So this is inventory list,</p><p>and anything we need to order, we put it here,</p><p>there's a condiment, and the farmer's market,</p><p>and then prep list, we also put it here.</p><p>Most important part is actually communication</p><p>with each other, with AM and PM.</p><p>Did you guys talk last night to PM team?</p><p>Yeah.</p><p>So, what do we have?</p><p>We're going XO, beef jus- Okay.</p><p>And then we're doing the almond cream as well</p><p>for the dessert.</p><p>Did you guys check</p><p>today's reservation? Yeah.</p><p>How many vegetarian?</p><p>I believe there's one. Just one,</p><p>one vegan.</p><p>Yeah, one vegan. Vegan, okay.</p><p>Now, it's 9:40 and I am checking the reservation</p><p>and then email.</p><p>So today, our cover is 68.</p><p>Since we are selected restaurant of the year</p><p>of the LA Times, we book pretty much every single night.</p><p>Yeah, I think tonight- And also, I talk to Mina</p><p>about today's plan.</p><p>So, we run the restaurant together,</p><p>he takes care of the culinary side.</p><p>Metaphorically, she's the mother of the restaurant.</p><p>I am pretty quiet boy, quiet guy,</p><p>so all the important job, what I'm not really good at,</p><p>she's doing actually the most important job.</p><p>[bright cheery music]</p><p>So I can see the cod being delivered.</p><p>We have a live lobster, we don't usually get,</p><p>so it's just for R&D,</p><p>and then this one is the sol and scallop,</p><p>and then also we have a black cod.</p><p>Our sous chef, Matt, he is checking quality</p><p>and the freshness.</p><p>When there's a head, you can see the eyes and the gills,</p><p>and I check on the invoice, quantity and price,</p><p>and today, everything looks really good.</p><p>[bright cheery music]</p><p>Matt is going to butcher,</p><p>and then we're gonna make soy-braised black cod,</p><p>this is actually one of the people's favorite.</p><p>It goes with dongchimi, which is Korean melon kimchi,</p><p>the papaya chip, and citrus fawn.</p><p>It's 10:00 AM, so my job is checking fermentation.</p><p>So this one is part of our rice dishes,</p><p>we pickle watermelon, radish, rose,</p><p>and citra peppercorn inside.</p><p>Texture should be crunch from the freshness,</p><p>and then taste wise, between over ripened,</p><p>and then ripened,</p><p>so I can taste a little bit of funkiness.</p><p>This radish is done, so I think it's done.</p><p>It's the summertime, so it's pretty good condition</p><p>to grow beneficial bacteria and the microorganism.</p><p>And the second thing is lemon verbena kombucha,</p><p>we strain it and then make some kind of foam,</p><p>and then we put on top</p><p>of the watermelon and tomato gazpacho.</p><p>I'm gonna just check, it's gonna be ready.</p><p>Wow, it's good.</p><p>So this is basically, you try to squeeze out the moisture</p><p>from the tofu, and then cover with ssamjang.</p><p>We use this tofu as kind of backbone</p><p>of our vegetarian and vegan menu sauce.</p><p>If it's kind of really aged well,</p><p>it tastes like blue cheese,</p><p>it tastes really savory umami,</p><p>and little bit of sour, good sour,</p><p>that's what I'm looking for.</p><p>One thing I found really strange</p><p>when I first enter United States,</p><p>people think fermentation is very strange thing,</p><p>but because I am from Korea, it's just kind of natural.</p><p>When I start, they really open</p><p>and awake my perception about fermentation.</p><p>They try to do everything, like roasting,</p><p>deep frying, and then dehydrating, and then ground it,</p><p>and then make it even some kind of water.</p><p>They are trying to apply all kinds of cooking technique,</p><p>interpret into totally different culture of people.</p><p>And I wanna make this fermented condiments,</p><p>because these ingredients are the most important part</p><p>of the Korean cooking.</p><p>Cheonggukjang, fermented soybean paste,</p><p>ganjang, soon to be soy sauce,</p><p>and then this one is gochujang, this one looks also good.</p><p>I open the lid, sun is going to shine,</p><p>it's really good for all the fermented condiments.</p><p>So we are done with the fermentation check.</p><p>At least once a week, when I go to farmer's market</p><p>and then see something interesting,</p><p>I try to do some kind of fermentation,</p><p>we got golden egg for prawn, and birabel,</p><p>and Korean gaji-namul.</p><p>This strainer is very typical Korean,</p><p>every household who's making kimchi have this one.</p><p>Once it's drained, we're gonna cut it,</p><p>we're gonna seed it, stem off,</p><p>and then we're gonna make fermentation.</p><p>There are two different kinds, one is just cover with sugar,</p><p>let it sit, so all the sugar's gonna melt</p><p>and then it will turn into liquid,</p><p>it's like a syrup, but it has microorganism.</p><p>If we have some kind of grill of the seasonal vegetable,</p><p>we can just marinate in this syrup.</p><p>And the second is lacto-fermentation,</p><p>mixed with salt, without oxygen, and then a department.</p><p>And it's gonna be done, usually this weather,</p><p>I can say two, three days.</p><p>I'm gonna wrapping up this fermentation.</p><p>Our PM team is arriving now, it's around noon,</p><p>so now it's gonna be seven people.</p><p>When PM cook arrive,</p><p>I usually check everything's going properly,</p><p>but every day is pretty good.</p><p>Big difference is the length of time,</p><p>so what AM do is more time consuming</p><p>and labor intensive job,</p><p>but what PM do is more like maybe two, three hours job,</p><p>cutting, shredding, picking up the orbs, and then be ready.</p><p>While they are doing preparation for the service,</p><p>I just check every single components of dishes,</p><p>and then I taste.</p><p>So this is the aehobak, which is a kind of baby squash</p><p>we use for the rice dishes in panchan for jangsari.</p><p>Panchan is kind of tray with a lot of the side dishes,</p><p>and then rice and soup.</p><p>This is radish.</p><p>And then naengi naber, naengi is a shepherd's purse.</p><p>Tasting looks great, so we can move on.</p><p>Now it's at three o'clock,</p><p>so now we are gonna work on the R&D.</p><p>We really try to change the menu as much as possible,</p><p>but it's been our year.</p><p>As head chef, the researching and menu development</p><p>is really important.</p><p>Yesterday I kinda marinate pork neck,</p><p>I'm gonna just grill and then check how's the texture,</p><p>and then how's the seasoning.</p><p>This one is the jam lettuce, we gonna grill this one.</p><p>This jam lettuce can be solo, or it can be garnish.</p><p>So, now I'm gonna try to use this next dish as appetizer,</p><p>we are making lobster bisque in Korean way,</p><p>made with fermented soybean paste and with a grain.</p><p>So, this is already cooked lentil,</p><p>and then pork meat,</p><p>we're gonna cook it down a little bit more.</p><p>I'm trying to think about kind of hybrid way</p><p>of the maybe Italian risotto,</p><p>and then our version of the fermented soybean stew.</p><p>I try to think about all different kinds of the flavor,</p><p>saltiness, sweetness, bitter, sweet, sour, umami,</p><p>and then also I'm trying to think about</p><p>what other fermented good in the walk-in cooler</p><p>are gonna be well paired with this.</p><p>For the protein side, I'm gonna make a fried lobster.</p><p>The batter is typical, but we put it</p><p>in the nitrogen charger,</p><p>it also really make gloppy aerated, better.</p><p>So we are gonna deep fry the lobster.</p><p>[bright exciting music]</p><p>Mm.</p><p>Actually, it's better than I expected.</p><p>Anyone want to try this one?</p><p>We could increase salinity.</p><p>Yeah, increase the salinity.</p><p>The sweetness is good,</p><p>it's actually really sweet- Sweetness?</p><p>[Chef] Not a lot of sweetness.</p><p>Actually, I like this one more.</p><p>I'm thinking about to glaze</p><p>with some kind of fermented fruit-</p><p>Uh-huh. Or baste over jus,</p><p>and then glaze it, and then it can go well with a solo,</p><p>but it can also go well with any kind of protein, I think.</p><p>So this one, try to have it all together,</p><p>like a grain and then soup and then the pickle radish.</p><p>I accent it with olive oil,</p><p>but I'm thinking about something in my mind,</p><p>it's kind of lemongrass,</p><p>but we are using lemongrass in the black cod.</p><p>You can use a liquid.</p><p>For the foam, yeah. Yeah, 'cause it has</p><p>a nice pink color. That's also a good idea.</p><p>We make a lighter idea, yeah, that's a good idea too.</p><p>Great tasting menu session with our team, part of the team,</p><p>so everything was good,</p><p>but there are absolutely more things to work on it.</p><p>And then now it's four o'clock,</p><p>it is almost about to have family meal.</p><p>It's 5:15, everyone is back from the break,</p><p>and then we have 15 minutes to open.</p><p>So, we're gonna have pre-shift meeting now.</p><p>So tonight we have 69 covers,</p><p>we have 11 birthdays, one anniversary,</p><p>we have one vegan at 7:30,</p><p>and no other vegetarians tonight.</p><p>Have a good service, everyone.</p><p>Good service. Have a good service.</p><p>[hands clapping]</p><p>Right now, we are about to start the service,</p><p>so my role today is expo.</p><p>Manage all the tickets,</p><p>and also dispense all the dishes to the right table,</p><p>and then I need to make sure also dishes clean,</p><p>this is just wipe the plate.</p><p>I mean, I don't mind to do the expo,</p><p>but sometime kind of joke, they don't like me in the expo,</p><p>sometime I made a mistake.</p><p>So, first guest is about to arrive.</p><p>Thank you so much, we need to be ready,</p><p>so you guys need to be out now.</p><p>Bye.</p><p>[bright exciting music]</p></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fLDozG grid--item grid-layout__aside"><div data-testid="CneVideoWatchPageRightRail" class="CneVideoWatchPageRightRail-euEnLY eXgeBv"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CneVideoWatchPageRightRailHeading-kpouzA iUEiRd kRuYgY eQghcW right-rail__heading">Up Next</div><ul 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