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The Cardinal's Ragu | The Splendid Table

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href="https://web.archive.org/web/20160222034344/http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/?url=http%3A//www.splendidtable.org/recipes/the-cardinals-ragu&amp;media=http%3A//www.splendidtable.org/sites/default/files/styles/lede_image/public/penne_0.jpg%3Fitok%3Dn4Qpi7P_&amp;description=The%20Cardinal%27s%20Ragu" class="social_link" id="pinterest_share_link"><span class="bg"></span><span class="msg">Share</span><span class="social_count"><i></i><u></u><span class="st-count">16</span></span></a><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/" class="social_link" id="print-link"><span class="bg"></span></a></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-lede-media"><span id="styles-0-0" class="styles file-styles lede_image"> <img itemprop="image" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20160222034344im_/http://www.splendidtable.org/sites/default/files/styles/lede_image/public/penne_0.jpg?itok=n4Qpi7P_" width="700"/></span></div><div class="field field-name-field-media-attribution">Ingram Publishing</div><div class="field field-name-body"><span itemprop="recipeInstructions"> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;">This ragu from the late 18th century tastes rich, brown and velvety with the surprise of cinnamon and tingly black pepper. The sauce blends well with tagliatelle, pappardelle, penne and garganelli pastas. Experience it as it was first made centuries ago by combining the ragu with hollow maccheroni-style pasta and baking it. You could, of course, simply serve it up without baking.</span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;">After trying the ragu with and without Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, I found cheese overwhelms the sauce's cinnamon and pepper, while its texture changes the ragu's silkiness.</span></div> <div><strong style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></strong></div> <div><em>A Little History </em></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;">This is one of the earliest of Emilia-Romagna's ragus to be served with pasta and was found in a small manuscript of 50 or so recipes written by Alberto Alvisi.</span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;">Between 1785 and 1800 Alvisi cooked for the Cardinal of Imola, Gregorio Chiaramonti. The Cardinal went on to be Pope Pio VII, while Alvisi dropped into obscurity.</span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;">Bolognese journalists Aureliano Bassani and Giancarlo Roversi discovered Alvisi’s manuscript in Bologna's archives, and published it some 180 years after the cardinal dined on this ragu.</span></div> <div><strong style="line-height: 1.538em;"><em><br/></em></strong></div> <div><em>Cook's Note: Using Other Meats:</em><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"> The original recipe offered the cook a choice of beef, veal shoulder, pork loin, or poultry giblets. Any of these could be substituted in equal amounts for the beef mentioned below.</span></div> <div><strong style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></strong></div> <div><strong style="line-height: 1.538em;">Ingredients</strong></div> <div> <ul><li class="ingredient"><span class="amount">2 tablespoons</span> <span class="name">rendered fat from salt pork</span></li> <li class="ingredient"><span class="amount">2 tablespoons</span> <span class="name">unsalted butter</span></li> <li class="ingredient"><span class="amount">l</span> medium <span class="name">onion</span>, minced</li> <li class="ingredient"><span class="amount">1-1/4 pounds</span> <span class="name">beef skirt steak</span>, or boneless chuck blade steak, trimmed of fat and cut into 1/4-inch dice</li> <li class="ingredient"><span class="amount">1/4 teaspoons</span> <span class="name">ground cinnamon</span></li> <li class="ingredient"><span class="amount">salt and freshly ground <span class="name">black pepper</span></span></li> <li class="ingredient"><span class="amount">2 tablespoons</span> <span class="name">flour</span></li> <li class="ingredient"><span class="amount">4-1/3 cups</span> a rich, homemade <span class="name">meat or poultry stock</span></li> <li class="ingredient"><span class="amount">Generous pinch each cinnamon and freshly ground black pepper </span></li> <li class="ingredient"><span class="amount">6 quarts</span> boiling, generously <span class="name">salted water</span></li> <li class="ingredient"><span class="amount">1 pound</span> imported Italian <span class="name">penne pasta</span></li> </ul></div> <div><strong style="line-height: 1.538em;">Instructions</strong></div> <div><strong style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></strong></div> <div><em>Working Ahead:</em><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"> The ragu can be made ahead. It holds well, covered, in the refrigerator for 2 days and freezes for a month. Skim off fat and reheat before serving. Taste for cinnamon and pepper before tossing with pasta. There should be a sparkle of pepper and soft back taste of cinnamon.</span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;">Combine the ragu and pasta in a casserole. It can wait a couple of hours before baking. Plan on about 30 to 45 minutes in a 350° oven.</span></div> <div><strong style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></strong></div> <div><em>Browning:</em><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"> Heat the pork fat and butter in a heavy four-quart saucepan over medium high heat. Stir in the meat and onions, turning heat up to high.</span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;">Use a wooden spatula to push apart pieces of meat as it first throws off moisture and then begins browning. Lower heat if meat threatens to burn, or if the brown glaze on the bottom of pan turns very dark.</span></div> <div><strong style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></strong></div> <div><em>Reducing and Simmering:</em><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"> Sprinkle the first quantity of cinnamon and a little salt and pepper over the meat and stir in a 1/2 cup of the stock. Scrape up the brown glaze with a wooden spatula as the stock bubbles slowly over medium heat. Once the stock has bubbled down to nothing, add another 1/2 cup of stock. Repeat the reduction once more, using another 1/2 cup stock.</span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;">Blend in the flour, cooking it over medium heat about 2 minutes. Pour in the remaining stock. Bring it to a very slow bubble.</span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;">Partially cover the pot and cook about 2-1/2 hours, or until meat is tender. Sauce should be the consistency of unwhipped heavy cream. Add water if it thickens too much, or threatens to stick and burn. Once it is done, remove from the heat and cover. Or store in the refrigerator.</span></div> <div><strong style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></strong></div> <div><em>Cooking the Pasta and Serving:</em><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"> Have the water at a full, rolling boil. Drop in the penne and cook, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes, or until slightly underdone. Drain immediately in a colander.</span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;">Have the ragu hot. Sprinkle sauce with second quantity of cinnamon and pepper. There should be a whisper of discernable cinnamon and a gentle tingle from the pepper. Toss the sauce with the hot pasta.</span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;">If you are going to bake it, turn into a buttered 4 quart casserole and bake at 350° for 30 minutes, or until hot.</span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></span></div> <div><span style="line-height: 1.538em;">If serving right away, turn the pasta back into the pasta pot, add the ragu and toss together over low heat for 3 minutes, or until pasta has absorbed a little of the ragu’s juices. Serve hot.</span></div> <div><strong style="line-height: 1.538em;"><br/></strong></div> <div><em>Wine Suggestions:</em><span style="line-height: 1.538em;"> From Emilia-Romagna drink a red Barbera or Merlot from the Colli Bolognese. Or have Piemonte's Barbera d’Asti or Alba, or a Dolcetto d'Alba.</span></div> </span></div><div class="field field-name-field-source"> <p>From <em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20160222034344/http://www.amazon.com/The-Splendid-Table-Emilia-Romagna-Heartland/dp/0688089631/?tag=tsplent-20">The Splendid Table: Recipes from Emilia-Romagna, the Heartland of Northern Italian Food</a></em> by Lynne Rossetto Kasper (Morrow, 1992). Copyright 1992 Lynne Rossetto Kasper. </p> </div><div class="field field-name-field-recipe-categories"><div class="label-inline">Categories:&nbsp;</div><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/recipes/pasta">Pasta</a></div><div class="field field-name-field-tags"><div class="label-inline">Tags:&nbsp;</div><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/tags/beef">beef</a><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/tags/butter">butter</a><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/tags/lard">lard</a><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/tags/stock">stock</a></div><div class="field field-name-field-prep-time"><div class="label-inline">Prep time:&nbsp;</div><time datetime="" itemprop="prepTime">15 minutes</time></div><div class="field field-name-field-cook-time"><div class="label-inline">Cook time:&nbsp;</div><time datetime="" itemprop="cookTime">4 hours</time></div><div class="field field-name-field-total-time"><div class="label-inline">Total time:&nbsp;</div><time datetime="" itemprop="totalTime">4 hours 15 minutes</time></div><div class="field field-name-field-yield"><div class="label-inline">Yield:&nbsp;</div><span itemprop="recipeYield">6 to 8 servings as a first course; and 8 as a main dish</span></div></div> </section><section id="block-views-byline-block" class="block block-views"> <div class="view view-byline view-id-byline view-display-id-block view-dom-id-bfc400c7dd04ace146e241b0ca92183d"> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first views-row-last cf"> <a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/bio/lynne-rossetto-kasper"><img class="lazy" data-src="https://web.archive.org/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/sites/default/files/styles/square_thumbnail/public/lrossettokasper1.jpg?itok=QGRVa_V2" src="/web/20160222034344im_/http://www.splendidtable.org/sites/default/themes/splendidtable/img/pixel.gif" width="180"/></a><div class="field field-name-field-lede"><p>Lynne Rossetto Kasper has won numerous awards as host of The Splendid Table, including two James Beard Foundation Awards (1998, 2008) for Best National Radio Show on Food, five Clarion Awards (2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2014) from Women in Communication, and a Gracie Allen Award in 2000 for Best Syndicated Talk Show.</p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </section><section id="block-disqus-disqus-comments" class="block block-disqus"> <div id="disqus_thread"><noscript><p><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20160222034344/http://splendidtable.disqus.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.splendidtable.org%2Frecipes%2Fthe-cardinals-ragu">View the discussion thread.</a></p></noscript></div> </section> </section> <aside class="sidebar one-third omega"> <section id="block-block-61" class="block block-block"> <div id="st-ad-1"></div> 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Do not change the div class name. --></div> </section> </aside> </div> <div class="polyptych container cf"> <section class="one-quarter"> <section id="block-views-nodequeue-1-block-1" class="block block-views"> <div class="view view-nodequeue-1 view-id-nodequeue_1 view-display-id-block_1 view-dom-id-3a5763b4a418f19cfa1c7281f641a17a"> <div class="view-content"> <ul class="list"><li><h2 class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/story/chef-yotam-ottolenghi-on-translating-restaurant-recipes-for-the-home-cook">Chef Yotam Ottolenghi on translating restaurant recipes for the home cook</a></h2><div class="field-content"><span id="styles-5-0" class="styles file-styles medium_square"> <img id="5" class="lazy" data-src="https://web.archive.org/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/sites/default/files/styles/medium_square/public/pistachio-pine-nut-crusted-halibut_NOPI_0.jpg?itok=R-JE2amh" src="/web/20160222034344im_/http://www.splendidtable.org/sites/default/themes/splendidtable/img/pixel.gif" width="300"/></span></div><p class="field-content">&quot;The dishes that are in the book have actually been cooked in the restaurant, in Nopi, for quite a few years,&quot; says Yotam Ottolenghi, co-author of the cookbook Nopi. &quot;We had to take them and turn things that are already in existence and served in the restaurant into something that home cooks can actually make.&quot;</p></li></ul> </div> </div> </section> </section> <section class="one-quarter"> <section id="block-views-nodequeue-3-block-1" class="block block-views"> <h2>Top Recipes</h2> <div class="view view-nodequeue-3 view-id-nodequeue_3 view-display-id-block_1 view-dom-id-bbb41561df0565d1837627bf6bfaaf9c"> <div class="view-content"> <ul class="list"><li><span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/recipes/arroz-con-pollo">Arroz con Pollo</a></span></li><li><span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/recipes/pistachio-and-pine-nut-crusted-halibut">Pistachio and Pine Nut-Crusted Halibut</a></span></li><li><span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/recipes/roasted-beet-fennel-and-citrus-salad">Roasted Beet, Fennel, and Citrus Salad </a></span></li><li><span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/recipes/foolproof-pan-pizza">Foolproof Pan Pizza</a></span></li><li><span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/recipes/gong-bao-chicken-with-peanuts">Gong Bao Chicken with Peanuts </a></span></li><li><span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/recipes/mandys-fragrant-raspberry-bubbly">Mandy’s Fragrant Raspberry Bubbly</a></span></li><li><span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/recipes/100-lebanese-tabbouleh">100% Lebanese Tabbouleh</a></span></li><li><span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/recipes/21st-century-mac-and-cheese">21st Century Mac and Cheese</a></span></li><li><span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/recipes/lemon-and-curry-leaf-rice">Lemon and Curry Leaf Rice</a></span></li><li><span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/recipes/banana-fritters">Banana Fritters</a></span></li></ul> </div> </div> </section> </section> <section class="one-quarter"> <section id="block-views-nodequeue-2-block-1" class="block block-views"> <div class="view view-nodequeue-2 view-id-nodequeue_2 view-display-id-block_1 view-dom-id-2e44dc12b5ec39381c20cb65939d2987"> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first views-row-last"> <h2 class="field-content"></h2><h2 class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/story/a-writer-explores-cubas-burgeoning-food-scene">A writer explores Cuba&#039;s burgeoning food scene</a></h2><div class="field-content"></div><div class="field-content"></div><div class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/story/a-writer-explores-cubas-burgeoning-food-scene"><span id="styles-6-0" class="styles file-styles medium_square"> <img id="6" class="lazy" data-src="https://web.archive.org/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/sites/default/files/styles/medium_square/public/8470672637_8bcc336028_k.jpg?itok=qcXEe-zU" src="/web/20160222034344im_/http://www.splendidtable.org/sites/default/themes/splendidtable/img/pixel.gif" width="300"/></span></a></div><div class="field-content">&quot;I arrived in Havana very much wanting my first meal to be what I thought of as authentic Cuban,&quot; says Tamar Adler, a contributing writer for Vogue Magazine. &quot;I was, at first, disappointed. Then I was just interested to find that the restaurants that were getting the best ingredients and doing the best job with hiring enough staff to really cook good food were entirely uninterested in doing traditional Cuban food.&quot;</div> </div> </div> </div> </section> </section> <section class="one-quarter"> <section id="block-views-home-blockquote-block" class="block block-views"> <div class="view view-home-blockquote view-id-home_blockquote view-display-id-block view-dom-id-dc680a21cae169684930f56e944ccab0"> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first views-row-last"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20160222034344/http://www.splendidtable.org/story/land-of-corn-syrup-and-honey-some-producers-are-blending-filtering-diluting"><div class="mod-a promo feat-pq"> <div class="box"> <blockquote> <p> “Some of this honey might not be 100 percent pure liquid gold.”</p> <address> <cite>Marina Marchese</cite>&nbsp; </address> </blockquote> </div> </div></a></span> </div> </div> </div> </section> </section> </div> <div class="fullbg"> <footer class="container cf"><section id="block-apm-footer-footer" class="block block-apm-footer"> <!--googleoff: index--> <!-- APM GLOBAL FOOTER START --> <div id="apmFooter"> <div id="apmFooterWrapper" class="apmFooterBackgroundColor"> <!-- START FOOTER COLOR BAR BLOCK --> <div id="apmFooterBar" class="apmFooterBarColor"> <span id="apmFooterBarImage"> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20160222034344/http://www.americanpublicmedia.org/"><img alt="American Public Media" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20160222034344im_/http://www.publicradio.org/config/cobrand/standard/images/apm002/apm_logo_h.png" id="apmWebLogoH"/></a> </span> <span id="apmFooterBarText" class="apmFooterBarTextColor">&copy; 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