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Poi è tutta una graduale scoperta, Pistoia, gioiello della..."/> <meta property="fb:pages" content="124918220854917" /> <meta property="fb:pages" content="102303571436989" /> <meta property="fb:pages" content="101402851533838" /> <meta property="fb:pages" content="100228861660069" /> <meta property="fb:pages" content="2188858207869460" /> <meta property="fb:app_id" content="602506186465830" /> <meta property="article:publisher" content="https://www.facebook.com/Messaggero.it/" /> <meta property="article:published_time" content="2025-02-27T04:20:04+0100" /> <meta property="article:modified_time" content="2025-02-27T04:20:04+0100" />  <meta name="twitter:card" content="summary_large_image" /> <meta name="twitter:url" content="https://www.ilmessaggero.it/viaggi/italia/pistoia_viaggi_toscana_citta_arte_cosa_vedere_mostre_in_programma-8682285.html" /> <meta name="twitter:site" content="@ilmessaggeroit" /> <meta name="twitter:title" content="Pistoia, in volo sul Medioevo: dove l'arte sa stupire" /> <meta name="twitter:description" content="Le macchie di marmo bianco e verde che assecondano la spinta aerea dell’architettura gotica colpiscono l’occhio, subito. Poi è tutta una graduale scoperta, Pistoia, gioiello della..." /> <meta name="twitter:image" content="https://statics.cedscdn.it/photos/MED/22/85/8682285_26213738_pistoria_cattedarale_di_san_zeno_dal_battistero.jpg" /> <meta name="twitter:label2" content="tempo di lettura" /><meta name="twitter:data2" content="6 minuti" />  <script type="application/ld+json"> { "@context":"http://schema.org", "@type":"NewsArticle", "mainEntityOfPage":{ "@type":"WebPage", "@id":"https://www.ilmessaggero.it/viaggi/italia/pistoia_viaggi_toscana_citta_arte_cosa_vedere_mostre_in_programma-8682285.html" }, "name":"Pistoia, in volo sul Medioevo: dove l'arte sa stupire", "inLanguage": "it_IT", "headline":"Pistoia, in volo sul Medioevo: dove l'arte sa stupire", "description":"Le macchie di marmo bianco e verde che assecondano la spinta aerea dell’architettura gotica...", "keywords":"arte, mostre, pistoia, toscana, turismo, viaggi", "articleSection":"Viaggi", "datePublished":"2025-02-27T04:20:04+0100", "dateModified":"2025-02-27T04:20:04+0100", "image": [ { "@type": "ImageObject", "url": "https://statics.cedscdn.it/photos/MED_HIGH/22/85/8682285_26213738_pistoria_cattedarale_di_san_zeno_dal_battistero.jpg", "width":1280, "height":701 }, { "@type": "ImageObject", "url": "https://statics.cedscdn.it/photos/PANORAMA_HIGH/22/85/8682285_26213738_pistoria_cattedarale_di_san_zeno_dal_battistero.jpg", "width": 1280, "height": 440 }, { "@type": "ImageObject", "url": "https://statics.cedscdn.it/photos/MED/22/85/8682285_26213738_pistoria_cattedarale_di_san_zeno_dal_battistero.jpg", "width": 620, "height": 340 } ], "thumbnailUrl": "https://statics.cedscdn.it/photos/THUMB/22/85/8682285_26213738_pistoria_cattedarale_di_san_zeno_dal_battistero.jpg", "author": { "@type": "Person", "name": "Laura Larcan", "url": "https://www.ilmessaggero.it/?p=redazione", "jobTitle": "Journalist" }, "articleBody":"Le macchie di marmo bianco e verde che assecondano la spinta aerea dell’architettura gotica colpiscono l’occhio, subito. Poi è tutta una graduale scoperta, Pistoia, gioiello della Toscana più fiera. Identità complessa, cresciuta nel Medioevo in competizione con Firenze per poi affermare un proprio personale orgoglio, tanto da calamitare nei propri cantieri fior di artisti come Nicola e Giovanni Pisano. Si respira un’aria di fine bellezza, dove le facciate dei palazzi e delle chiese echeggiano le linee del tempo. Come un manuale di storia dell’arte. Basta solo fermarsi nella piazza centrale del Duomo per cogliere l’essenza di questa città storica. «Il colpo d’occhio è quello di una piazza in cui il potere religioso convive con quello politico e giudiziario attraverso gli edifici che qui si affacciano», racconta il sindaco Alessandro Tomasi, che si fa cicerone speciale in questa passeggiata. PULPITI E RELIQUIE L’invito è ad alzare gli occhi verso il cielo, perché il cuore cittadino «è contornato dalla cinta verde dei vivai e sormontato dalle montagne - spiega il primo cittadino - A poche decine di minuti di macchina, infatti, ci sono i boschi della collina pistoiese, con i suoi borghi e le sue tradizioni». Scoprire e riscoprire, in fondo. Pistoia sfoggia le sue perle d’arte secolari, come tratto distintivo in questa porzione di nobile terra toscana. A partire da quel duetto da vertigine del Battistero di San Giovanni in corte con il campanile della cattedrale. «C’è la chiesa di San Giovanni Fuorcivitas, che proprio in questo periodo si può votare sul sito del Fai per scalare la classifica dei Luoghi del Cuore del Fondo ambientale italiano» indica Tomasi, che ricorda come Pistoia abbia la fama di città dei pulpiti, delle oreficerie medievali, di reliquie importanti che la trasformano in meta di pellegrinaggio («il frammento osseo di San Giacomo il Maggiore nel Duomo ne fanno crocevia di cammini», ricorda il sindaco). E delle maioliche di Luca della Robbia. «Nella chiesa di Sant’Andrea si può ammirare il pulpito di Giovanni Pisano, in San Bartolomeo in Pantano quello attribuito a Guido da Como. Tutti capolavori eccezionali, così come l’altare argenteo nella Cattedrale di San Zeno...». Ma l’idea ora è anche quella di rilanciarsi all'insegna dell'arte contemporanea in un dialogo innovativo e originale con la storia. IL MAESTRO Cuore è la Fondazione Pistoia Musei che si prepara ad accogliere una delle figure più influenti del panorama internazionale come il maestro francese Daniel Buren. Dall’8 marzo al 27 luglio, il famoso pittore e scultore, paladino delle geometrie a colori, punta ad offrire «un viaggio immersivo in un dialogo fluido con il tessuto urbano della città» (per dirla con i curatori) tra lavori storici e opere inedite, in collaborazione con la Galleria Continua. Tre sedi museali di Palazzo Buontalenti, Palazzo de’ Rossi, Antico Palazzo dei Vescovi, e non solo. «Il segno di Buren si può scoprire anche nel parco della Villa medicea La Magia, a Quarrata, dove da tempo c’è l’opera Muri fontane a 3 colori per un esagono», dice il sindaco che ricorda anche una curiosità: «Buren ha contribuito anche all’ideazione di alcuni elementi del nostro Padiglione di emodialisi. Adesso, con la mostra di Pistoia Musei, la suggestione si estende». La stagione aiuta a vivere Pistoia in tutte le sue declinazioni. «In questo momento all’Abetone si scia: la nostra montagna è sicuramente una tra le mete da scoprire sia adesso, con la neve, che durante l’estate. In città andiamo incontro a tanti eventi culturali importanti». LA GASTRONOMIA Se il folklore sacro e le notti jazz si animano d’estate (da ricordare), l’arte della gastronomia, qui a Pistoia, è l’altra esperienza che completa il viaggio. Fermarsi a degustare è più che un invito: «Potreste farlo sulla Sala - consiglia Tomasi - nel cuore cittadino, magari dopo un giro al mercato della frutta e della verdura. Ma lo potete fare in tanti altri luoghi spingendovi dalla Piana all’Orsigna, il paese di Tiziano Terzani, dove ancora oggi si produce la farina di castagne nei metati, con le castagne nostrane, ovviamente». Tutti d’accordo allora? La cucina tenta la sfida, nel temperamento dei residenti: «A volte, con autoironia, diciamo di noi pistoiesi che siamo polemici un po’ su tutto - riflette Tomasi - A me piace però precisare che qui sì, si discute tanto, ma alla fine, su ciò che conta davvero, siamo una comunità coesa, accogliente e generosa. E siamo soprattutto orgogliosi della nostra città...». Due esempi di eccellenze? Si producono qui, artigianalmente, i migliori piatti per batteria al mondo, così come i confetti birignoccoluti dell’antica pasticceria. Benvenuti a Pistoia, allora. L'ITINERARIO: LO SPETTACOLO DELLA NATURA NEI PARCHI ISPIRATI ALLE FAVOLE Bellezze al verde. Una manciata di minuti in macchina, e la scoperta è dietro l’albero. Il territorio intorno Pistoia è una continua esplorazione a cielo aperto. C’è il giardino addomesticato dall’estro artistico di scuola Rinascimentale. Spiccano i giochi d’acqua di fontane che gareggiano con la natura artisticamente selvaggia. E brilla il parco che accoglie installazioni di artisti contemporanei. Insomma, cartina alla mano, le tappe non mancano. «Pistoia e dintorni, per chi ama il verde, offrono tentazioni irresistibili. Anche senza voler fare acquisti, alcuni vivai sono veri e propri musei verdi: i miei preferiti sono lo storico Mati e, per gli agrumi, Oscar Tintori…..difficile uscire dalla visita senza una piantina!», racconta Alberta Campitelli, una lunga carriera nei Beni culturali e vice presidente dell’Associazione Parchi e Giardini d’Italia. ROMANTICISMO Tra storia e natura, l’effetto dell’incanto en plein air è una costante qui, in questo angolo di Toscana. «Ricchissimo è anche il verde storico, con giardini spettacolari e diversi tra loro, quasi un compendio della varietà che offre il nostro paese - commenta Campitelli, tra i massimi esperti in Italia di storia dei Giardini - In primo luogo il Giardino Puccini, ottocentesca e romantica creazione con laghetti, piccoli tempi, false rovine, proprietà della famiglia del celebre musicista Giacomo che amava soggiornarvi...». Spingendoci a Collodi, nome che evoca i mondi fantastici di uno dei massimi creatori di favole, l’avventura non manca. «Spettacolare e scenografica è la seicentesca Villa Garzoni a Collodi, trionfo del barocco - ricorda Alberta Campitelli - con scalee che collegano i terrazzamenti, effetti teatrali, fontane e grotte, giochi d’acqua, un labirinto tra i pochi superstiti, una catena d’acqua: il tutto popolato da statue allegoriche che ci conducono in mondo magico». E se volessimo spingerci fino al cuore della favola? Non si può non rendere omaggio a Pinocchio. Meta per grandi e piccini, che regala sempre una buonba dose di divertimento. «Non lontano, merita una visita, il Parco di Pinocchio, ideato negli anni cinquanta del secolo scorso per celebrare il protagonista della nostra fiaba più celebre - racconta Campitelli con l’entusiasmo nella voce - Un paesaggista come il celebre Pietro Porcinai, un architetto come Giovanni Michelucci, e uno scultore come Pietro Consagra, hanno raccontato gli episodi della vita del burattino in un dialogo impagabile tra le arti, con un percorso che incanta grandi e bambini». L’ESPERIMENTO Scarpe comode e una buona dose di curiosità, vale la pena anche godere dell’esperienza insolita, del tutto originale, di un viaggio naturale nell’arte contemporanea. «Per restare nel dialogo tra verde e arte, da non perdere è la Villa di Celle, a Santomaso - sottolinea Alberta Campitelli - dove Giuliano Gori, un imprenditore collezionista ha creato negli ultimi decenni del secolo scorso, nel parco di una villa ottocentesca, un museo di sculture all’aperto che comprende opere dei più grandi artisti contemporanei». 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}; } // dico che in qualche modo ho espresso un consenso, sta poi allo script decidere quale // verificando il parametro preference o meglio ancora usando i trigger specifici di sotto _trigger("cookielaw.accepted", preference); // triggero esplicito per ogni purposo /** * da usare in due modi * cookielaw_<n>_<accepted|denied> * cookielaw_<n> con @param bool true|false */ window.cookieLawPurposes = {}; for (var i=1; i<=5; i++) { // rendo questi valori accessibili window.cookieLawPurposes[i] = !!preference.purposes[i]; } // triggero gli eventi, serve dopo per aver popolato il cookieLawPurposes for (var i=1; i<=5; i++) { _trigger("cookielaw_" + i + "_" + (preference.purposes[i] ? 'accepted' : 'denied')); _trigger("cookielaw_" + i, !!preference.purposes[i]); } /* trigger anche per consensi TCF */ const tcf_delay_start_time = performance.now(); __tcfapi('getTCData', 2, function(tcdata,success) { const tcf_delay_end_time = performance.now(); console.log('TCF Delay: '+ (tcf_delay_end_time - tcf_delay_start_time) +'ms', tcdata.purpose.consents); window.tcfConsents = tcdata.purpose.consents; for (var i=1; i<=11; i++) { _trigger("tcf_" + i + "_" + (tcdata.purpose.consents[i] ? 'accepted' : 'denied')); } }); console.log('consent given', preference); } }, "banner": { "acceptButtonDisplay":true, "slideDown": false, "prependOnBody": false, "position": "top", "backgroundOverlay": true, "fontSize": "12px", "zIndex": 2147483647, "backgroundColor": "#333", "content": "<div id=\"iubenda-cs-title\">Informativa<\/div><div id=\"iubenda-cs-paragraph\"><p class=\"iub-p\">Questo sito intende fornire un'informazione di qualit\u00e0, grazie al lavoro della propria redazione e dei propri tecnici. Affinch\u00e8 ci\u00f2 sia possibile, facciamo ricorso alla pubblicit\u00e0 profilata, i cui ricavi consentono di offrire una parte dei contenuti gratuitamente. In mancanza di consenso alla pubblicit\u00e0 profilata, l'accesso ai nostri servizi avviene previa sottoscrizione di un abbonamento. Puoi scegliere se accedere ai contenuti gratuiti permettendoci di erogare pubblicit\u00e0 personalizzata o sottoscrivere un piano di abbonamento equivalente. Come indicato nella %{cookie_policy_link}, noi e terze parti facciamo uso di tecnologie, quali i cookie, per raccogliere ed elaborare dati personali dai dispositivi (ad esempio l'indirizzo IP, tracciamenti precisi dei dispositivi e della posizione geografica). Per installare i cookie che garantiscono le funzionalit\u00e0 tecniche, non \u00e8 necessario il tuo consenso. Con il tuo consenso, noi e alcune tra %{total_number_of_ads_vendors} terze parti presenti - inserzionisti nonch\u00e9 intermediari del mercato pubblicitario di volta in volta coinvolti -, potremo mostrarti pubblicit\u00e0 personalizzata, misurarne la performance, analizzare le nostre audience e migliorare i nostri prodotti e servizi. Puoi liberamente conferire, rifiutare o revocare il consenso a tutti o alcuni dei trattamenti facendo click sul pulsante %{advertising_preferences_link} sempre raggiungibile anche attraverso la nostra cookie policy. In caso di rifiuto integrale o delle singole finalit\u00e0 necessarie all'erogazione di pubblicit\u00e0 e di contenuti personalizzati, potrai scegliere di aderire a un piano di abbonamento. Puoi acconsentire direttamente all'uso delle tecnologie sopra menzionate facendo click su "ACCETTA E CONTINUA" o rifiutarne l'uso e abbonarti facendo click su "Opzioni Cookie".<\/p><\/div>", "innerHtmlCloseBtn": "Rifiuta e abbonati", "rejectButtonDisplay": false, "acceptButtonCaption": "ACCETTA E CONTINUA", "customizeButtonCaption": "Opzioni Cookie", "closeButtonDisplay": true, "customizeButtonColor": "Opzioni Cookie", "closeButtonRejects": true }, "i18n": { "it": { "per_purpose": { "widget_intro": "Il seguente pannello ti consente di esprimere le tue preferenze di consenso alle tecnologie di tracciamento che adottiamo per offrire le funzionalità e svolgere le attività sotto descritte. Per ottenere ulteriori informazioni in merito all'utilità e al funzionamento di tali strumenti di tracciamento, fai riferimento alla cookie policy. Puoi rivedere e modificare le tue scelte in qualsiasi momento. Tieni presente che il rifiuto del consenso per una finalità particolare può rendere le relative funzioni non disponibili." + "<br /><br />" + "L‘offerta gratuita di contenuti redazionali è possibile grazie al sostentamento che i siti e le app ricevono dalle inserzioni pubblicitarie. È perciò possibile che il consenso all’utilizzazione di cookie di profilazione pubblicitaria sia richiesto per poter avere accesso a tali contenuti gratuiti. In alternativa al consenso, potrai sottoscrivere un abbonamento dietro pagamento di un piccolo importo. Il rilascio del consenso, in mancanza di abbonamento, dà pieno accesso solo ai contenuti gratuiti, per cui, se non sei abbonato ma hai rilasciato il consenso facoltativo ai cookie di personalizzazione pubblicitaria, non potrai comunque accedere agli articoli riservati agli abbonati.", "purposes": { "5": { "name": "Marketing e Pubblicità" } }, "general_advertising_services": "Servizi di Marketing del Titolare" } } } }; // gestione apertura automatica (arrivando da AMP personalizzando il consenso) try { _waitFor('cookielaw.loaded', function() { if (window.location.href.match(/opencmp=true/)) { window.history.replaceState({}, '', window.location.href.replace(/opencmp=true/, '')); window.setTimeout(function() { _iub.cs.api.openPreferences(); }, 1000); } }); } catch(e) { console.warn(e); } </script> <script class="onjqueryloaded" type="text/plain" src="//cs.iubenda.com/sync/1916770.js" onload="_trigger('iubconsentmode_loaded')" async></script> <script class="oniubconsentmode_loaded" type="text/plain" src="//cdn.iubenda.com/cs/tcf/stub-v2.js" onload="_trigger('iubstub_loaded')" async></script> <script class="oniubstub_loaded" type="text/plain" src="//cdn.iubenda.com/cs/tcf/safe-tcf-v2.js" onload="_trigger('iubtcf_loaded')" async></script> <script class="oniubtcf_loaded" type="text/plain" src="//cdn.iubenda.com/cs/stable/iubenda_cs.js" onload="_trigger('cookielaw.loaded')" charset="UTF-8" async></script>  <style> /* fix temporaneo problema zindex */ div#iubenda-iframe { z-index: 2147483647 !important; } body #iubenda-cs-banner .iubenda-cs-opt-group button.iubenda-cs-customize-btn { background-color: #0073ce!important; color: #fff!important; } body #iubenda-cs-banner .iubenda-cs-opt-group button.iubenda-cs-customize-btn, body #iubenda-cs-banner .iubenda-cs-opt-group button.iubenda-cs-accept-btn { font-size: 13px !important; } #iubenda-cs-banner button.iubenda-cs-close-btn { border: 2px solid #eee!important; padding: 4px 10px!important; height: 28px!important; border-radius: 0!important; font-weight: bold !important; } body #purposes-content-container .purposes-header .purposes-header-title { font-size: 1em !important; text-transform: uppercase !important; } body #purposes-content-container .purposes-header .purposes-header-text { font-size: 14px !important; } </style> <script> // gestione webview iOS try { // temporaneamente qualsiasi chiamata da app (appId o uuid), poi solo disable_tracking=true if (/((appId|uuid)=|disable_tracking=true)/.test(document.location.href)) { sessionStorage.setItem('hideIubenda', true); } if (sessionStorage.getItem('hideIubenda')) { var hideIubendaStyle = document.createElement("style"); hideIubendaStyle.type = "text/css"; hideIubendaStyle.innerText = 'body #iubenda-cs-banner { display: none !important; }' document.head.appendChild(hideIubendaStyle); } } catch(e) { console.log("Errore nella gestione della webview anonima", e); } </script>  <script src="https://utils.cedsdigital.it/src/js/cmpConsentWall.js"></script>  <script type="text/javascript" src="/js/common.js?m783457" async></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://statics.cedscdn.it/utils/js/socialbar-sso.js" async onload="_trigger('socialbarloaded')"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="/js/slick.min.js?m784945" async onload="_trigger('slickloaded')"></script> <script async defer src="https://statics.cedscdn.it/utils/js/imageViewer_v2.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="/js/desktop/articolo.js?m783457" async></script> <script type="text/javascript"> var googletag = googletag || {}; googletag.cmd = googletag.cmd || []; (window.impostazioni_testata || {}).sezione_dfp = 'Viaggi'; (window.impostazioni_testata || {}).testata_dfp = 'Messaggero'; window.dfp_targetings = {"cluster":["0R341","F00D","UB50K"]}; var PREBID_TIMEOUT = 1500, APS_TIMEOUT = 1500; var pbjs = pbjs || {}; pbjs.que = pbjs.que || []; (function() { function prebid() { var adUnits = [{"code":"adv_Skin","ortb2Imp":{"ext":{"gpid":"adv_Skin"}},"mediaTypes":{"banner":{"sizes":[1920,1080]}},"bids":[{"bidder":"appnexus","params":{"placementId":"15330161"}}]},{"code":"adv_LdbMastheadPush","ortb2Imp":{"ext":{"gpid":"adv_LdbMastheadPush"}},"mediaTypes":{"banner":{"sizes":[[728,90],[970,90],[980,90],[970,250],[980,250]]}},"bids":[{"bidder":"appnexus","params":{"placementId":"11767969"}},{"bidder":"rubicon","params":{"accountId":"16836","siteId":"195950","zoneId":"1177826"}},{"bidder":"criteo","params":{"networkId":694}},{"bidder":"pubmatic","params":{"publisherId":"158069","adSlot":"1964568@980x250"}},{"bidder":"pubmatic","params":{"publisherId":"158069","adSlot":"1964567@980x90"}},{"bidder":"pubmatic","params":{"publisherId":"158069","adSlot":"1964566@970x250"}},{"bidder":"pubmatic","params":{"publisherId":"158069","adSlot":"1964565@728x90"}},{"bidder":"ix","params":{"siteId":"349214"}},{"bidder":"adf","params":{"mid":"1410978"}},{"bidder":"adasta","params":{"placementId":"29225690"}},{"bidder":"ogury","params":{"adUnitId":"wd-hb-stdb-ilmess-piemm-qg7xx2v8cjgb","assetKey":"OGY-EB4A6E8C26E7"}}]},{"code":"adv_BoxTop","ortb2Imp":{"ext":{"gpid":"adv_BoxTop"}},"mediaTypes":{"banner":{"sizes":[[300,250],[300,600]]}},"bids":[{"bidder":"appnexus","params":{"placementId":"11767704"}},{"bidder":"rubicon","params":{"accountId":"16836","siteId":"195950","zoneId":"1177830"}},{"bidder":"criteo","params":{"networkId":694}},{"bidder":"pubmatic","params":{"publisherId":"158069","adSlot":"1964563@300x250"}},{"bidder":"pubmatic","params":{"publisherId":"158069","adSlot":"1964564@300x600"}},{"bidder":"ix","params":{"siteId":"349215"}},{"bidder":"adf","params":{"mid":"1410963"}},{"bidder":"adasta","params":{"placementId":"29225688"}},{"bidder":"ogury","params":{"adUnitId":"wd-hb-stdb-ilmess-piemm-iznfbqbzbq7m","assetKey":"OGY-EB4A6E8C26E7"}}]},{"code":"adv_BoxBottom","ortb2Imp":{"ext":{"gpid":"adv_BoxBottom"}},"mediaTypes":{"banner":{"sizes":[[300,250],[300,251]]}},"bids":[{"bidder":"appnexus","params":{"placementId":"14768006"}},{"bidder":"rubicon","params":{"accountId":"16836","siteId":"195950","zoneId":"1177836"}},{"bidder":"criteo","params":{"networkId":694}},{"bidder":"pubmatic","params":{"publisherId":"158069","adSlot":"1964561@300x250"}},{"bidder":"ix","params":{"siteId":"349217"}},{"bidder":"adf","params":{"mid":"1410959"}},{"bidder":"adasta","params":{"placementId":"29225686"}},{"bidder":"ogury","params":{"adUnitId":"wd-hb-stdb-ilmess-piemm-qcsrbumszilq","assetKey":"OGY-EB4A6E8C26E7"}}]},{"code":"adv_PromoBox","ortb2Imp":{"ext":{"gpid":"adv_PromoBox"}},"mediaTypes":{"banner":{"sizes":[[300,100],[300,250],[300,252]]}},"bids":[{"bidder":"appnexus","params":{"placementId":"14768066"}},{"bidder":"rubicon","params":{"accountId":"16836","siteId":"195950","zoneId":"1177832"}},{"bidder":"criteo","params":{"networkId":694}},{"bidder":"pubmatic","params":{"publisherId":"158069","adSlot":"1964562@300x250"}},{"bidder":"ix","params":{"siteId":"349216"}},{"bidder":"adf","params":{"mid":"1410974"}},{"bidder":"adasta","params":{"placementId":"29225677"}},{"bidder":"ogury","params":{"adUnitId":"wd-hb-stdb-ilmess-piemm-qcsrbumszilq","assetKey":"OGY-EB4A6E8C26E7"}}]},{"code":"adv_BoxPromoAdv","ortb2Imp":{"ext":{"gpid":"adv_BoxPromoAdv"}},"mediaTypes":{"banner":{"sizes":[[300,101],[300,250],[300,254]]}},"bids":[]},{"code":"adv_Inread","ortb2Imp":{"ext":{"gpid":"adv_Inread"}},"mediaTypes":{"banner":{"sizes":[[300,250]]}},"bids":[{"bidder":"seedtag","params":{"publisherId":"7191-3749-01","adUnitId":"29083202","placement":"inArticle"}},{"bidder":"adasta","params":{"placementId":"29225695"}}]}]; (() => { function s(i, m, o, n) { n = typeof i == 'object'; if (n && i.length) { for (m=0; m < i.length; m++) { i[m] = s(i[m]); } } else if (n) { for (m in i) { if (m == '_consent') { for (o in i[m]) { if (doesPurposeHaveConsent(o)) { return i[m][o]; } } if (i[m]['0']) return i[m]['0']; } else { i[m] = s(i[m]); } } } return i; } adUnits = s(adUnits); })(); /* hashed email per ID5 */ let id5_pd_param = ''; if (getCookie("sha256_mail")){ id5_pd_param = btoa('1=' + getCookie("sha256_mail")); } var prebidConfig = { enableSendAllBids: false, targetingControls: { alwaysIncludeDeals: true }, bidderTimeout: PREBID_TIMEOUT, consentManagement: { gdpr: { cmpApi: 'iab', timeout: 800, defaultGdprScope: true } }, currency: { adServerCurrency: 'USD' }, priceGranularity: { buckets: [{ precision: 2, max: 2, increment: 0.01 }, { max: 4, increment: 0.02 }, { max: 8, increment: 0.05 }] }, userSync: { filterSettings: { iframe: { bidders: '*', filter: 'include' } }, syncsPerBidder: 0, userIds: [ { name: 'identityLink', params: { pid: '13951', notUse3P: false }, storage: { type: 'html5', name: 'idl_env', expires: 15, refreshInSeconds: 1800 } }, { name: 'id5Id', params: { partner: '1385', externalModuleUrl: 'https://cdn.id5-sync.com/api/1.0/id5PrebidModule.js', pd: id5_pd_param, abTesting: { enabled: true, controlGroupPct: 0.15 } }, storage: { type: 'html5', name: 'id5id', expires: 90, refreshInSeconds: 8*3600 } }, { name: 'pairId', params: { liveramp: { storageKey: '_lr_pairId' } } }, { name: 'tncId', params: { url: 'https://js.tncid.app/remote.min.js?providerId=49d5a9ce-b28e-4b69-bc49-2e058cdb2a12' }, storage: { type: 'cookie', name: 'tncid', expires: 365 } } ], auctionDelay: 50, syncDelay: 3000 }, timeoutBuffer: 300, useBidCache: true, 'rubicon': { singleRequest: true, netRevenue: true }, 'criteo': { fastBidVersion: 'latest' } }; Promise.all([ // PBJS ************************************************************************* new Promise((resolve, reject) => { loadScript("https://statics.cedscdn.it/utils/js/prebid9.26.0.js"); // ask for prebid pbjs.que.push(function() { //LIVERAMP ATS ANALYTICS pbjs.enableAnalytics([ { provider: "atsAnalytics", options: { pid: "13951" } }, { provider: "id5Analytics", options: { partnerId: 1385 } } ]); pbjs.addAdUnits(adUnits); // aggiungo i targeting come per la dfp (ma qui tramite keywords!) try { ((i,k) => { for (i=0; i < adUnits.length; i++) for (k=0; k < adUnits[i].bids.length; k++) if (adUnits[i].bids[k].bidder == 'appnexus') adUnits[i].bids[k].params.keywords = {category: "Viaggi"}; })(); } catch(e) { CED.warn(e); } pbjs.setConfig(prebidConfig); // Bidder Specific Config - Adasta pbjs.setBidderConfig({ "bidders": ['adasta'], "config": { "schain": { "validation": "relaxed", "config": { "ver":"1.0", "complete": 1, "nodes": [ { "asi":"adasta.it", "sid":"145", "hp":1 } ] } } } }); // Leggo se ho settato un cookie con la mail hashata let md5_mail = getCookie("md5_mail"); let sha256_mail = getCookie("sha256_mail"); // Bidder Specific Config - hashed mail for Criteo pbjs.setBidderConfig({ "bidders": ['criteo'], "config": { "ortb2": { "user": { "ext": { "data": { "eids": [ { "uids": [ { "id": md5_mail, "atype": 3, "ext": { "stype": "hemmd5" } }, { "id": sha256_mail, "atype": 3, "ext": { "stype": "hemsha256" } } ] } ] } } } } } }); pbjs.requestBids({ bidsBackHandler: () => { // Prebid bids returned CED.debug("Prebid Manager - pbjs finished!"); resolve(); // gestione adv non consensate, lo metto qui perche' devo per forza aspettare // che finisca il recupero dei bidder, il timeout non va bene! /* _waitOnceFor('cookielaw_5_denied', () => { CED.debug("Prebid Manager - adv cookie denied, starting adv no consent"); // render prebid ads without calling the AdServer renderPrebidAds(); }); */ } }); pbjs.bidderSettings = { standard: { storageAllowed: doesPurposeHaveConsent(5) } }; }); // or wait its secure-timeout // in case PBJS doesn't load setTimeout(() => { CED.debug("Prebid Manager - pbjs FAIL - timeout reached!"); resolve(); }, PREBID_TIMEOUT); }), // AMAZON PUBLISHER SERVICES (APS) *********************************************** new Promise((resolve, reject) => { _waitOnceFor('cookielaw_5_accepted', () => { // _waitOnceFor('cookielaw.accepted', () => { // load script !function(a9,a,p,s,t,A,g){if(a[a9])return;function q(c,r){a[a9]._Q.push([c,r])}a[a9]={init:function(){q("i",arguments)},fetchBids:function(){q("f",arguments)},setDisplayBids:function(){},targetingKeys:function(){return[]},_Q:[]};A=p.createElement(s);A.async=!0;A.src=t;g=p.getElementsByTagName(s)[0];g.parentNode.insertBefore(A,g)}("apstag",window,document,"script","//c.amazon-adsystem.com/aax2/apstag.js"); apstag.init({ pubID: '3695', adServer: 'googletag' }); apstag.fetchBids({ slots: [{"slotID":"adv_LdbMastheadPush","slotName":"/38681514/Messaggero/Viaggi/LdbMastheadPush","sizes":[[728,90],[980,90],[970,250],[980,250]]},{"slotID":"adv_BoxTop","slotName":"/38681514/Messaggero/Viaggi/BoxTop","sizes":[[300,250],[300,600]]},{"slotID":"adv_BoxBottom","slotName":"/38681514/Messaggero/Viaggi/BoxBottom","sizes":[[300,250]]},{"slotID":"adv_PromoBox","slotName":"/38681514/Messaggero/Viaggi/PromoBox","sizes":[[300,250]]},{"slotID":"adv_BoxPromoAdv","slotName":"/38681514/Messaggero/Viaggi/BoxPromoAdv","sizes":[[300,250]]},{"slotID":"adv_Inread","slotName":"/38681514/Messaggero/Viaggi/Inread","sizes":[[300,250]]}] }, function (bids) { googletag.cmd.push(function () { CED.debug("Prebid Manager - APS finished!"); apstag.setDisplayBids(); resolve(); }); } ); // or wait its secure-timeout // in case APS doesn't load setTimeout(function () { CED.debug("Prebid Manager - APS FAIL - timeout reached!"); resolve(); }, APS_TIMEOUT); }); // if cookielaw 5 NOT ACCEPTED resolve NOW // se non lo fai PREBID NON PARTIRA'!!!!!!! _waitOnceFor('cookielaw_5_denied', () => { CED.debug("Prebid Manager - APS FAIL - cookielaw 5 not accepted!"); resolve(); }); }) ]).then(() => { // PromiseAll RESOLVED ! ************************************************************ // yee all promises finished! CED.debug("Prebid Manager - ALL RESOLVED"); // _waitOnceFor('cookielaw_5_accepted', () => { _waitOnceFor('cookielaw.accepted', () => { CED.debug("Prebid Manager - Consent OK"); googletag.cmd.push(function () { pbjs.que.push(function() { pbjs.setTargetingForGPTAsync(); }); googletag.pubads().refresh(); }); }); }).catch((e) => { CED.error("Prebid Manager - ALL FAIL - ", e); }); } // ADV without consent var prebidAdUnitStatus = {}; // fetch and render winning bids function renderPrebidAds() { var winners = pbjs.getHighestCpmBids(); CED.debug("Prebid Manager - NO CONSENT - winners found", winners.length, winners); if (!winners || !winners.length) { return; } winners.forEach((bid, index) => { prebidSetAdUnitBidReady(bid['adUnitCode']); }); CED.debug("Prebid Manager - NO CONSENT - winners found", Object.keys(prebidAdUnitStatus)); // populate prebidAdUnitStatus with already ready advDiv try { var banners = document.getElementsByClassName('adv_banner'); for (var i=0; banners && i < banners.length; i++) { var adv_id = banners[i].id; prebidSetAdUnitDivReady(adv_id); } } catch(e) { CED.error("Prebid Manager - NO CONSENT - no adv_banner class elements found in DOM or other related error", e); } } // set "auction" finished flag for current adUnit. We need to wait the auction before render! function prebidSetAdUnitBidReady(adUnitCode) { if (!prebidAdUnitStatus[adUnitCode]) prebidAdUnitStatus[adUnitCode] = {prebidReady: false, divReady: false}; prebidAdUnitStatus[adUnitCode].prebidReady = true; // aggiungo l'adUnit all'array di advs (window.c_advs = window.c_advs || []).push(adUnitCode.replace('adv_', '')); // try to display the creative now prebidDisplayAdUnit(adUnitCode); } // set "div" ready in DOM flag for current adUnit. We need a DIV as wrap for the auction before render! function prebidSetAdUnitDivReady(adUnitCode) { if (!prebidAdUnitStatus[adUnitCode]) prebidAdUnitStatus[adUnitCode] = {prebidReady: false, divReady: false}; prebidAdUnitStatus[adUnitCode].divReady = true; // try to display the creative now prebidDisplayAdUnit(adUnitCode); } // checks that both flags are set, if so render the adUnit! function prebidDisplayAdUnit(adUnitCode) { // we need both if (prebidAdUnitStatus[adUnitCode].prebidReady && prebidAdUnitStatus[adUnitCode].divReady) { showPrebidAd(adUnitCode); } } // renders the adUnit in page! function showPrebidAd(adUnitCode) { var winners = pbjs.getHighestCpmBids(), bidToShow = false; winners.forEach((bid, index) => { if (bid['adUnitCode'] == adUnitCode) { bidToShow = bid; } }); var slotId = adUnitCode.replace('adv_', ''); if (!bidToShow) { CED.error("Prebid manager - NO CONSENT - trying to show adUnit", adUnitCode, " but no matching adUnit found in winner list", winners); _trigger("adv_render_ended_" + slotId, [null, "prebid_no_consent", true, [bidToShow.width, bidToShow.height]]); return; } CED.debug("Prebid Manager - NO CONSENT - showing adUnit", bidToShow); // create iframe var id_iframe = 'anon_' + adUnitCode; var adID = bidToShow['adId']; var iframe = document.createElement('iframe'); iframe.id = id_iframe; iframe.setAttribute('scrolling', 'no'); iframe.setAttribute('style', 'border:0'); iframe.setAttribute('marginwidth', '0'); iframe.setAttribute('marginheight', '0'); iframe.setAttribute('height', '0'); iframe.setAttribute('width', '0'); // insert into adUnit Div try { document.getElementById(adUnitCode).appendChild(iframe); } catch(e) { CED.error("Prebid manager - NO CONSENT - error inserting iframe into adUnit div", adUnitCode, e); _trigger("adv_render_ended_" + slotId, [document.getElementById(adUnitCode), "prebid_no_consent", true, [bidToShow.width, bidToShow.height]]); return; } var iframe_dom = iframe.contentWindow.document; if (bidToShow.mediaType == "native") { if (typeof CustomPrebidNativeRender == "function") { CED.debug("Prebid Manager - NO CONSENT - rendering adUnit through native render function", adUnitCode); // e' una funzione che possiamo definirci anche noi stessi dove vogliamo CustomPrebidNativeRender(bidToShow); } else { CED.warn("Prebid Manager - NO CONSENT - adUnit native render function `CustomPrebidNativeRender` not found", adUnitCode); } } else { CED.debug("Prebid Manager - NO CONSENT - rendering adUnit", adUnitCode); pbjs.renderAd(iframe_dom, adID); } _trigger("adv_render_ended_" + slotId, [document.getElementById(adUnitCode), "prebid_no_consent", false, [bidToShow.width, bidToShow.height]]); } // fine ADV NO CONSENT function advLoading(dfplazyload) { dfplazyload = typeof dfplazyload != "undefined" ? dfplazyload : impostazioni_testata.dfp.lazy; // NOTA: e' loaded, significa che aspetto SOLO che sia stato caricato, // potrei non avere ancora la scelta dell'utente // NOTA: in questi casi è fondamentale usare _waitOnceFor per evitare avii multipli // cookielaw-loaded && no_paywall || cookielaw-loaded && paywallmeter.paywall.pass || cookielaw-loaded && paywallmeter.paywall.hidden var cook_ok = 'cookielaw-loaded'; // giusto per renderlo più leggibile _waitOnceFor(cook_ok, function(){ // caricamento gpt.js loadScript('https://securepubads.g.doubleclick.net/tag/js/gpt.js', function() { CED.log('Gpt Loaded'); _waitOnceFor('cookielaw_1_accepted', prebid); }); googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.pubads().disableInitialLoad(); var urlocation = document.location.href.replace('http://', '').replace('https://', ''); var pos = urlocation.indexOf('^'); var urlkey = pos != -1 ? urlocation.substr(pos + 1, urlocation.length) : ""; googletag.pubads().setCookieOptions(1 * !cookieLaw.cookieAccepted()); googletag.defineSlot('/38681514/Messaggero/Viaggi/Premium',['fluid',[970,250],[980,250]],'adv_Premium').addService(googletag.pubads()); if (urlkey != "") googletag.pubads().setTargeting("UrlKey", urlkey); googletag.pubads().setTargeting("UrlFull", urlocation); let abbonato = getCookie("abbonato") || '0'; googletag.pubads().setTargeting("Abbonato", abbonato); googletag.pubads().setTargeting('argomento', "Toscana"); googletag.pubads().setTargeting('SubCategory','Italia'); ((forward_keys) => { forward_keys.forEach(k => { match = location.search.match(new RegExp("(\\?|&|#)"+k+"=([^&]+)")); if (match && match.length == 3) googletag.pubads().setTargeting(k, match[2]); }); })(['utm_campaign', 'utm_term', 'next_page']); googletag.pubads().setTargeting("pay", "1"); googletag.pubads().setTargeting("content_id", "ilmessaggero|Viaggi|8682285"); googletag.pubads().setTargeting('tipo',"articolo"); (function(x){ try{ var y = Object.keys(x); for (var i=0;i<y.length; i++) googletag.pubads().setTargeting(y[i], x[y[i]]); } catch(e) {CED.error(e)} })(window.dfp_targetings); if (dfplazyload == true) { // A) Enable with defaults. googletag.pubads().enableLazyLoad(); // B) Enable without lazy fetching. Additional calls override previous ones. //googletag.pubads().enableLazyLoad({fetchMarginPercent: -1}); // C) Enable lazy loading with... googletag.pubads().enableLazyLoad({ /* fetchMarginPercent: 80, // Fetch slots within 5 viewports. renderMarginPercent: 10, // Render slots within 2 viewports.*/ fetchMarginPercent: -1, renderMarginPercent: 150, }); googletag.pubads().enableSingleRequest(); } else { googletag.pubads().enableSingleRequest(); googletag.pubads().enableAsyncRendering(); } loadScript("https://statics.cedscdn.it/utils/js/AdRefresher.js"); /* PPID */ try { let wteid = document.cookie.match(/wt_gdpr_927615140575951=(\d+)/)[1]; if (wteid) { googletag.pubads().setPublisherProvidedId(md5(wteid)); } else { console.log("DFP, PPID non disponibile"); } } catch(e) { console.warn(e); } googletag.enableServices(); // gestisce tutto prebid, qui stai zitto! // if (dfplazyload && !cookieLaw.cookieAccepted()) { // googletag.pubads().refresh(); // } }); }); } function handleLoad() { if (impostazioni_testata.dfp.load_method == 'instant') { // le adv partono subito (sempre async, ma subito) advLoading(); } else if (impostazioni_testata.dfp.load_method == 'load') { // solo al load _waitOnceFor('load', advLoading); } else { // DEFAULT: le adv partono alla prima interazione o dopo il timeout inattività _waitOnceFor('first-interaction', advLoading); } } if (impostazioni_testata.load_on_cookielaw_accepted) { _waitOnceFor('cookielaw.accepted', handleLoad); } else { handleLoad(); } })(); </script> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/modules/socialbar/socialbar.css?m948923" /> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/modules/mega-menu/mega-menu.css?m784859" /> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/modules/optin_newsletter/optin_newsletter.css?m011822" /> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/modules/slider_articoli_orizzontale/slider_articoli_orizzontale.css?m784884" /> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" 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3.805.494 1.372.494.006 2.249.006 3.881c0 2.949 2.31 3.241 2.31 3.241C1.077 4.58 3.78 4.783 3.78 4.783z" /> </g> </g> </svg> </a>  <nav> <ul class="breadcrumbs"> <li><a href="https://www.ilmessaggero.it/viaggi/" class="sezione" title="Viaggi">Viaggi</a> </li> <li><a href="https://www.ilmessaggero.it/viaggi/italia/" class="sezione" title="Italia">Italia</a> </li> </ul> </nav> <span class="progress_title">Pistoia, in volo sul Medioevo: dove l'arte sa stupire</span> </div> </div> <div class="col-xs">  <h3 class="supertag_item"><a href="/t/toscana">TOSCANA</a></h3> </div> </div> </div> </div></header> <main class="wrapper container-fluid">  <section class="contenuto"> <article class="premium paid-content" id="content" data-progress> <header> <div class="row center-xs"> <div class="col-xs-10"> <h1 class="titolo">Pistoia, in volo sul Medioevo: dove l'arte sa stupire</h1> <h2 class="sottotitolo">Tra le più belle città della Toscana, vanta un’identità storica molto complessa, con monumenti vertiginosi che affondano le radici nel Trecento. Circondata da vivai e montagne come l’Abetone, adesso punta a rilanciare l’offerta con la creatività contemporanea</h2> </div> </div> <div class="row"> <div class="col-xs-12"> <figure class="main-photo big"> <img src="https://statics.cedscdn.it/photos/MED_HIGH/22/85/8682285_26213738_pistoria_cattedarale_di_san_zeno_dal_battistero.jpg" width="980" height="457" alt="" title="" /> </figure> </div> </div> </header> <div class="row center-xs"> <div class="col-xs-1 overlap round-sx"> <div id="share_bar_wrapper">  <div id="share_bar"> <div class="clearboth" style="width: 100%; height: 1px; margin-bottom: 0"></div> <ul class="share-item"> <li class="facebook"> <div class="icon ri-facebook-fill msg-art-fb "></div> </li> <li class="twitter"> <div class="icon ri-twitter-fill msg-art-tw"></div> </li> <li class="whatsapp"> <div class="icon ri-whatsapp-line msg-art-wa"></div> </li> <li class="telegram"> <div class="icon ri-telegram msg-art-te"></div> </li> <li class="mail"> <div class="icon ri-mail-line msg-art-em"></div> </li> <li class="print"> <div class="icon ri-print msg-art-print"></div> </li>  </ul> </div> </div> </div> <div class="col-xs-8 overlap"> <div class="row middle-xs firma-container"> <div class="col-xs-6 firma"> <span>di Laura Larcan</span> </div> <div class="col-xs-6 tempo">6 Minuti di Lettura</div> </div> <div class="col-xs-12 data-pubblicazione-bottom"> Giovedì 27 Febbraio 2025, 04:20 </div> <div id="riservato"> <img src="/img/logo_messaggero_premium.png?v=noresize" width="32" height="32" /> <span>Articolo riservato agli abbonati premium</span> </div> <div class="body-text"> <p><span>Le macchie di marmo bianco e verde che assecondano la spinta aerea dell’architettura gotica colpiscono l’occhio, subito. Poi è tutta una graduale scoperta, <strong>Pistoia, gioiello della Toscana più fiera</strong>. Identità complessa, cresciuta nel Medioevo in competizione con Firenze per poi affermare un proprio personale orgoglio, tanto da calamitare nei propri cantieri fior di artisti come Nicola e Giovanni Pisano. Si respira un’aria di fine bellezza, dove le facciate dei palazzi e delle chiese echeggiano le linee del tempo. Come un manuale di storia dell’arte. Basta solo fermarsi nella piazza centrale del Duomo per cogliere l’essenza di questa città storica. «Il colpo d’occhio è quello di una piazza in cui il potere religioso convive con quello politico e giudiziario attraverso gli edifici che qui si affacciano», racconta il sindaco <strong>Alessandro Tomasi</strong>, che si fa cicerone speciale in questa passeggiata.</span></p> <div id="adv_Premium" class="adv_banner" ></div>  <p> <h3><span>PULPITI E RELIQUIE </span></h3> </p><p><span>L’invito è ad alzare gli occhi verso il cielo, perché il cuore cittadino «è contornato dalla cinta verde dei vivai e sormontato dalle montagne - spiega il primo cittadino - A poche decine di minuti di macchina, infatti, ci sono i boschi della collina pistoiese, con i suoi borghi e le sue tradizioni». Scoprire e riscoprire, in fondo. Pistoia sfoggia le sue perle d’arte secolari, come tratto distintivo in questa porzione di nobile terra toscana. A partire da quel duetto da vertigine del Battistero di San Giovanni in corte con il campanile della cattedrale. «C’è la chiesa di San Giovanni Fuorcivitas, che proprio in questo periodo si può votare sul sito del Fai per scalare la classifica dei Luoghi del Cuore del Fondo ambientale italiano» indica Tomasi, che ricorda come Pistoia abbia la fama di città dei pulpiti, delle oreficerie medievali, di reliquie importanti che la trasformano in meta di pellegrinaggio («il frammento osseo di San Giacomo il Maggiore nel Duomo ne fanno crocevia di cammini», ricorda il sindaco). E delle maioliche di Luca della Robbia. «Nella chiesa di Sant’Andrea si può ammirare il pulpito di Giovanni Pisano, in San Bartolomeo in Pantano quello attribuito a Guido da Como. Tutti capolavori eccezionali, così come l’altare argenteo nella Cattedrale di San Zeno...». Ma l’idea ora è anche quella di rilanciarsi all'insegna dell'arte contemporanea in un dialogo innovativo e originale con la storia.</span></p><p> <h3><span>IL MAESTRO </span></h3> </p><p><span>Cuore è la Fondazione Pistoia Musei che si prepara ad accogliere una delle figure più influenti del panorama internazionale come il maestro francese Daniel Buren. Dall’8 marzo al 27 luglio, il famoso pittore e scultore, paladino delle geometrie a colori, punta ad offrire «un viaggio immersivo in un dialogo fluido con il tessuto urbano della città» (per dirla con i curatori) tra lavori storici e opere inedite, in collaborazione con la Galleria Continua. Tre sedi museali di Palazzo Buontalenti, Palazzo de’ Rossi, Antico Palazzo dei Vescovi, e non solo. «Il segno di Buren si può scoprire anche nel parco della Villa medicea La Magia, a Quarrata, dove da tempo c’è l’opera Muri fontane a 3 colori per un esagono», dice il sindaco che ricorda anche una curiosità: «Buren ha contribuito anche all’ideazione di alcuni elementi del nostro Padiglione di emodialisi. Adesso, con la mostra di Pistoia Musei, la suggestione si estende». La stagione aiuta a vivere Pistoia in tutte le sue declinazioni. «In questo momento all’Abetone si scia: la nostra montagna è sicuramente una tra le mete da scoprire sia adesso, con la neve, che durante l’estate. In città andiamo incontro a tanti eventi culturali importanti». </span></p><p> <h3><span>LA GASTRONOMIA </span></h3> </p><p><span>Se il folklore sacro e le notti jazz si animano d’estate (da ricordare), l’arte della gastronomia, qui a Pistoia, è l’altra esperienza che completa il viaggio. Fermarsi a degustare è più che un invito: «Potreste farlo sulla Sala - consiglia Tomasi - nel cuore cittadino, magari dopo un giro al mercato della frutta e della verdura. Ma lo potete fare in tanti altri luoghi spingendovi dalla Piana all’Orsigna, il paese di Tiziano Terzani, dove ancora oggi si produce la farina di castagne nei metati, con le castagne nostrane, ovviamente». Tutti d’accordo allora? La cucina tenta la sfida, nel temperamento dei residenti: «A volte, con autoironia, diciamo di noi pistoiesi che siamo polemici un po’ su tutto - riflette Tomasi - A me piace però precisare che qui sì, si discute tanto, ma alla fine, su ciò che conta davvero, siamo una comunità coesa, accogliente e generosa. E siamo soprattutto orgogliosi della nostra città...». Due esempi di eccellenze? Si producono qui, artigianalmente, i migliori piatti per batteria al mondo, così come i confetti birignoccoluti dell’antica pasticceria. Benvenuti a Pistoia, allora.</span></p><p> <h3><span>L'ITINERARIO: LO SPETTACOLO DELLA NATURA NEI PARCHI ISPIRATI ALLE FAVOLE</span></h3> </p><p><span><span>Bellezze al verde. Una manciata di minuti in macchina, e la scoperta è dietro l’albero. Il territorio intorno Pistoia è una continua esplorazione a cielo aperto. C’è il giardino addomesticato dall’estro artistico di scuola Rinascimentale. Spiccano i giochi d’acqua di fontane che gareggiano con la natura artisticamente selvaggia. E brilla il parco che accoglie installazioni di artisti contemporanei. Insomma, cartina alla mano, le tappe non mancano. «Pistoia e dintorni, per chi ama il verde, offrono tentazioni irresistibili. Anche senza voler fare acquisti, alcuni vivai sono veri e propri musei verdi: i miei preferiti sono lo storico Mati e, per gli agrumi, Oscar Tintori…..difficile uscire dalla visita senza una piantina!», racconta Alberta Campitelli, una lunga carriera nei Beni culturali e vice presidente dell’Associazione Parchi e Giardini d’Italia. </span></span></p><p> <h3><span><span>ROMANTICISMO </span></span></h3> </p><p><span><span>Tra storia e natura, l’effetto dell’incanto en plein air è una costante qui, in questo angolo di Toscana. «Ricchissimo è anche il verde storico, con giardini spettacolari e diversi tra loro, quasi un compendio della varietà che offre il nostro paese - commenta Campitelli, tra i massimi esperti in Italia di storia dei Giardini - In primo luogo il Giardino Puccini, ottocentesca e romantica creazione con laghetti, piccoli tempi, false rovine, proprietà della famiglia del celebre musicista Giacomo che amava soggiornarvi...». Spingendoci a Collodi, nome che evoca i mondi fantastici di uno dei massimi creatori di favole, l’avventura non manca. «Spettacolare e scenografica è la seicentesca Villa Garzoni a Collodi, trionfo del barocco - ricorda Alberta Campitelli - con scalee che collegano i terrazzamenti, effetti teatrali, fontane e grotte, giochi d’acqua, un labirinto tra i pochi superstiti, una catena d’acqua: il tutto popolato da statue allegoriche che ci conducono in mondo magico». E se volessimo spingerci fino al cuore della favola? Non si può non rendere omaggio a Pinocchio. Meta per grandi e piccini, che regala sempre una buonba dose di divertimento. «Non lontano, merita una visita, il Parco di Pinocchio, ideato negli anni cinquanta del secolo scorso per celebrare il protagonista della nostra fiaba più celebre - racconta Campitelli con l’entusiasmo nella voce - Un paesaggista come il celebre Pietro Porcinai, un architetto come Giovanni Michelucci, e uno scultore come Pietro Consagra, hanno raccontato gli episodi della vita del burattino in un dialogo impagabile tra le arti, con un percorso che incanta grandi e bambini». </span></span></p><p> <h3><span><span>L’ESPERIMENTO </span></span></h3> </p><p><span><span>Scarpe comode e una buona dose di curiosità, vale la pena anche godere dell’esperienza insolita, del tutto originale, di un viaggio naturale nell’arte contemporanea. «Per restare nel dialogo tra verde e arte, da non perdere è la Villa di Celle, a Santomaso - sottolinea Alberta Campitelli - dove Giuliano Gori, un imprenditore collezionista ha creato negli ultimi decenni del secolo scorso, nel parco di una villa ottocentesca, un museo di sculture all’aperto che comprende opere dei più grandi artisti contemporanei». </span></span></p> <div class="data-pubblicazione-bottom"> <div class="copy">© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA</div> </div> <div style="margin-bottom:20px;">  <div class="strip-box-optin nl-optinform optin-text optin-static" style="display:none" data-nl-id="6" data-nl="Viaggi"> <div class="bg-wrap "> <div> <div class="nl-optin-content-wrap"> <div class="nl-optin-header"> <img src="https://statics.cedscdn.it/utils/img/icons/mail-star.svg" width="25" alt="aggiornamenti" /> <b>Viaggi</b> - <b class="testata-color" >Newsletter</b> </div> <div class="nl-optin-content"> <span><i>Ogni Venerdì gli aggiornamenti su Viaggi</i></span> <span><b>Iscriviti</b> e ricevi le notizie via email</span> </div> <form action="/index.php?sez=utenti&p=iscrivi_newsletter&action=iscrivi&source=optin&nl=6" method="POST"> <div class="nl-flexme"> <input type="hidden" name="redirect_uri" value="https://www.ilmessaggero.it/newsletter" data-redirect-here="1" /> <input type="text" name="email" placeholder="Inserisci la tua email" data-mobile-placeholder="Email" class="toggleme" data-subscribed="0" data-logged="0" /> <input type="submit" class="testata-bg" name="from_box" value="ISCRIVITI" /> </div> </form> </div> <div class="testata-bg nl-optin-bg" ></div> </div> </div> <script> (function(el){ CedsWNV.watch(el, function(){ loadScript('/modules/optin_newsletter/module.min.js', () => { new CED.OptinNL(el); }); }); _trigger('toast.set', true) ; })(document.currentScript.parentElement); </script> </div> <style> .nl-optin-notext.nl-optinform .testata-bg { background: #b22222; } .nl-optin-notext.nl-optinform .bg-wrap>div .nl-optin-bg { opacity: 1; background: #eee; } </style>  </div> </div> </div> <div class="col-xs-1 overlap round-dx"></div> </div> </article> <div class="row"> <div class="col-xs-2"></div> <div class="col-xs-8">   <div id="outbrainWait"></div> <script type="text/plain" class="cookieLaw oncookielaw_1_accepted"> function getCurrentArticleUrl(c) { var murl = ""; if (murl) return murl; // try from canonical if (c = document.querySelector('link[rel="canonical"]')) { return c.href.replace(/"/g, '\''); } return document.location.href.split('?')[0].split('#')[0]; } function WidgetOutbrainTag() { var outbrainEl = document.getElementById('outbrain'); AdCodeOutbrain = '<div class="OUTBRAIN" data-src="'+getCurrentArticleUrl()+'" data-widget-id="AR_1" data-ob-template="IT_Ilmessaggero.it"></div>'; outbrainEl.insertAdjacentHTML("afterBegin", AdCodeOutbrain); loadScript('//widgets.outbrain.com/outbrain.js', function(){ // cerco il widget. 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