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<!DOCTYPE html><html lang="en" class="no-js"><head><meta charSet="utf-8"/><meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width"/><title>Thank the Ottoman Empire for the taco al pastor - The World from PRX</title><meta name="description" content="Taco al pastor, the classic Mexican street food that’s popular in the US, has roots in a surprising place: the Middle East. Thanks to immigrants from the former Ottoman Empire, the classic street dish of shawarma morphed into the beloved taco of today."/><link rel="canonical" href="https://theworld.org/stories/2015/05/06/taco-youre-eating-got-its-start-middle-east"/><meta property="fb:admins" content="16800048"/><meta property="fb:app_id" content="619002999344013"/><meta property="og:site_name" content="The World from PRX"/><meta property="og:type" content="article"/><meta property="og:title" content="Thank the Ottoman Empire for the taco al pastor - The World from PRX"/><meta property="og:url" content="https://theworld.org/stories/2015/05/06/taco-youre-eating-got-its-start-middle-east"/><meta property="og:description" content="Taco al pastor, the classic Mexican street food that’s popular in the US, has roots in a surprising place: the Middle East. Thanks to immigrants from the former Ottoman Empire, the classic street dish of shawarma morphed into the beloved taco of today."/><meta property="og:image" content="https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/story/images/5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg"/><meta property="og:image:width" content="2560"/><meta property="og:image:height" content="2560"/><meta name="twitter:account_id" content="24953039"/><meta name="twitter:card" content="summary_large_image"/><link rel="preload" as="image" imageSrcSet="/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2F5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg&w=370&q=75 370w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2F5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg&w=400&q=75 400w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2F5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg&w=568&q=75 568w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2F5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg&w=600&q=75 600w, 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7.245-8.338V54.228c0-5.616-1.27-8.337-7.245-8.337h-11.775V37.37h34.417Zm519.088 0v103.332c0 5.62 1.244 8.337 7.113 8.337h11.381v8.521h-52.284v-8.52h11.557c5.874 0 7.113-2.717 7.113-8.338V54.228c0-5.616-4.264-8.337-7.113-8.337H848.61V37.37h33.79ZM730.78 78.735c-22.559 0-29.656 17.068-29.656 36.68 0 19.614 7.097 36.682 29.657 36.682 22.557 0 29.65-17.068 29.65-36.681 0-19.613-7.093-36.681-29.65-36.681Zm209.908 1.56c-18.363 0-25.747 16.923-25.747 35.123 0 20.743 7.202 35.118 23.77 35.118 20.348 0 27.733-16.923 27.733-35.118 0-18.2-7.385-35.122-25.756-35.122Zm-457.918-1.56c-16.641 0-24.336 13.63-24.336 29.657h47.601c0-16.027-6.98-29.657-23.265-29.657Z"></path></svg></a><div class="mui-style-122lw0e-grow"></div><a class="MuiButtonBase-root MuiButton-root MuiButton-contained MuiButton-containedSecondary MuiButton-sizeMedium MuiButton-containedSizeMedium MuiButton-disableElevation MuiButton-root MuiButton-contained MuiButton-containedSecondary MuiButton-sizeMedium MuiButton-containedSizeMedium MuiButton-disableElevation mui-style-1c42mce" tabindex="0" href="https://give.prx.org/give/324469/#!/donation/checkout?c_src=Referral&c_src2=website-donate-heart" referrerPolicy="no-referrer-when-downgrade"><span class="MuiButton-startIcon MuiButton-iconSizeMedium mui-style-1l6c7y9"><svg class="MuiSvgIcon-root MuiSvgIcon-fontSizeMedium mui-style-vubbuv" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true" viewBox="0 0 24 24" data-testid="FavoriteSharpIcon"><path d="m12 21.35-1.45-1.32C5.4 15.36 2 12.28 2 8.5 2 5.42 4.42 3 7.5 3c1.74 0 3.41.81 4.5 2.09C13.09 3.81 14.76 3 16.5 3 19.58 3 22 5.42 22 8.5c0 3.78-3.4 6.86-8.55 11.54z"></path></svg></span>Donate</a><a class="MuiButtonBase-root MuiIconButton-root MuiIconButton-colorSecondary MuiIconButton-sizeSmall mui-style-r81od1" tabindex="0" href="https://give.prx.org/give/324469/#!/donation/checkout?c_src=Referral&c_src2=website-donate-heart" aria-label="Donate" referrerPolicy="no-referrer-when-downgrade"><svg 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mui-style-16xip4g-title">Thank the Ottoman Empire for the taco al pastor</h1></div><div class="MuiBox-root mui-style-tqq250-heading"><div class="MuiBox-root mui-style-jpal2p-info"><a class="MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-inherit MuiLink-root MuiLink-underlineNone mui-style-vpwljh-programLink-root" href="/programs/the-world">The World</a><div class="MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-subtitle1 mui-style-12p5gbo-date"><time dateTime="2015-05-06T20:36:04.000Z">May 6, 2015</time></div><div class="MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-subtitle2 mui-style-6bug3s-date"> Updated on <time dateTime="2015-05-08T22:30:00.000Z">May 8, 2015</time></div><ul class="mui-style-fol0bf-byline"><li class="mui-style-lloic3-bylineItem">By <span class="MuiBox-root mui-style-j9gegf-bylinePeople"><span class="MuiBox-root mui-style-1pajl0l-bylinePerson"><a class="MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-inherit MuiLink-root MuiLink-underlineNone mui-style-7ydf1b-bylineLink-root" href="/contributors/daniel-estrin">Daniel Estrin</a></span><span class="MuiBox-root mui-style-1pajl0l-bylinePerson"><a class="MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-inherit MuiLink-root MuiLink-underlineNone mui-style-7ydf1b-bylineLink-root" href="/contributors/deena-prichep">Deena Prichep</a></span></span></li></ul></div><div class="MuiBox-root mui-style-1vh14gn-audio"><div class="MuiBox-root mui-style-d0bi7-root" data-variant="default" data-size="medium"></div></div></div></header><audio class="mui-style-1orlj4t-root" src="https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/1nodefieldrefprogram/segment-audio/0507201508.mp3" controls="" preload="none"></audio></div><div class="MuiGrid-root MuiGrid-item MuiGrid-grid-xs-12 mui-style-pkj5ak"><div class="MuiBox-root mui-style-1z102bq-main"><div class="MuiBox-root mui-style-1o1qzts-content"><figure class="mui-style-1sl8xxb-root"><span style="box-sizing:border-box;display:block;overflow:hidden;width:initial;height:initial;background:none;opacity:1;border:0;margin:0;padding:0;position:relative"><span style="box-sizing:border-box;display:block;width:initial;height:initial;background:none;opacity:1;border:0;margin:0;padding:0;padding-top:56.25%"></span><img alt="Tacos al pastor from Carmela's Mexican Restaurant in Beaumont, Texas." sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, (max-width: 960px) 560px, (max-width: 1280px) 600px, 920px" srcSet="/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2F5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg&w=370&q=75 370w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2F5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg&w=400&q=75 400w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2F5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg&w=568&q=75 568w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2F5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg&w=600&q=75 600w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2F5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg&w=808&q=75 808w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2F5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg&w=960&q=75 960w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2F5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg&w=1280&q=75 1280w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2F5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg&w=1920&q=75 1920w" src="/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2F5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg&w=1920&q=75" decoding="async" data-nimg="responsive" class="mui-style-1on4rhl-imageWrapper" style="position:absolute;top:0;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;box-sizing:border-box;padding:0;border:none;margin:auto;display:block;width:0;height:0;min-width:100%;max-width:100%;min-height:100%;max-height:100%;object-fit:cover"/></span><figcaption class="MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-caption mui-style-qhz92n-footer"><div class="MuiBox-root mui-style-sexsrf-caption"><p>Tacos al pastor from Carmela's Mexican Restaurant in Beaumont, Texas.</p></div><span class="MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-caption mui-style-10p0ja1-root">Randy Edwards/CC BY-NC-ND 2.0</span></figcaption></figure><div class="MuiBox-root mui-style-121ps65-body"><p>At the Supermercado Mexico in Portland, Oregon, you’ll find a turning spit of pork, basted with chili and onions, dripping fat and flavor. Shave some off into a tortilla and you’ve got a <em>taco al pastor</em>, the classic Mexican street food.</p><p>It’s a similar scene halfway across the world in Jerusalem. At the hole-in-the-wall Al Waary restaurant, there’s a vertical rotisserie of beef spinning next to the flames, flavored by tangy vinegar. Shave some off into a pita, and you’ve got shawarma — the quintessential Middle Eastern street meat.</p><p>If you're thinking these beloved dishes might be linked, you're right. So we hit the street food trail to find out, starting in Jerusalem.</p><p>“Shawarma is very, very interesting,” says Ali Qleibo, a Palestinian anthropologist, sitting at the Al Waary shawarma joint. The origin of the word shawarma comes from the Turkish word <em>çevirme, </em>which means "turning."</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-full"> <img alt="Ali Qleibo, a Palestinian anthropologist, in front of Al Waary shawarma stand in Jerusalem." loading="lazy" width="2560" height="2560" decoding="async" data-nimg="1" class="wp-image-236090" style="color:transparent" sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, (max-width: 960px) 560px, (max-width: 1280px) 600px, 920px" srcSet="/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2F11.JPG&w=370&q=75 370w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2F11.JPG&w=400&q=75 400w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2F11.JPG&w=568&q=75 568w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2F11.JPG&w=600&q=75 600w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2F11.JPG&w=808&q=75 808w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2F11.JPG&w=960&q=75 960w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2F11.JPG&w=1280&q=75 1280w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2F11.JPG&w=1920&q=75 1920w" src="/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2F11.JPG&w=1920&q=75"/> <figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Ali Qleibo, a Palestinian anthropologist, in front of Al Waary shawarma stand in Jerusalem.<span class="media-credit">Daniel Estrin</span></figcaption> </figure><div class="edit-entity cta_border cta_align-right" data-entity-id="80053" data-entity-title="Story Act: Translations of Ottoman taco" data-entity-type="node">[[entity_id:"80053" entity_type:"node" entity_title:"Story Act: Translations of Ottoman taco"]]</div><p>You can find some version of shawarma everywhere in the Middle East where the Ottoman Empire once reigned.</p><p>“Turks call it döner kebab; Greeks call it gyro; Iraqis call it kas,” Qleibo says. “This shows you the all-pervasive influence of the Ottoman Empire, because all the subjects of the Ottoman Empire eat shawarma even though they call it by different names.”</p><p>Of course, the people of the Ottoman Empire didn’t all stay there. About 36,000 people under Ottoman rule left for Mexico between the late 19th and early 20th century.</p><p>“People came from as far as Egypt. I found some people [who] came from Iraq,” says Theresa Alfaro-Velcamp, a history professor at Sonoma State University who has tracked the migration of Middle Easterners to Mexico. “The majority came from the Levant, as it was called during that time, which is now modern-day Lebanon and Syria.”</p><p>The migrants left for the usual reasons: looking for economic opportunity, dodging army conscription and escaping sectarian violence. And when they arrived, they brought their food with them. “By the 1930s, there were restaurants that served shawarma,” says Jeffrey Pilcher, a historian and author of the book "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Taco-Global-History-Mexican/dp/0199740062">Planet Taco</a>."</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-full"> <img alt="A shawarma sandwich in Jerusalem. Swap in pork for lamb, and a tortilla for a pita, and you've got the Mexican classic, Taco al Pastor." loading="lazy" width="2560" height="2560" decoding="async" data-nimg="1" class="wp-image-236091" style="color:transparent" sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, (max-width: 960px) 560px, (max-width: 1280px) 600px, 920px" srcSet="/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2FCROPshawarma.jpg&w=370&q=75 370w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2FCROPshawarma.jpg&w=400&q=75 400w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2FCROPshawarma.jpg&w=568&q=75 568w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2FCROPshawarma.jpg&w=600&q=75 600w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2FCROPshawarma.jpg&w=808&q=75 808w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2FCROPshawarma.jpg&w=960&q=75 960w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2FCROPshawarma.jpg&w=1280&q=75 1280w, /_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2FCROPshawarma.jpg&w=1920&q=75 1920w" src="/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.pri.org%2Fs3fs-public%2Fstory%2Fimages%2FCROPshawarma.jpg&w=1920&q=75"/> <figcaption class="wp-element-caption">A shawarma sandwich in Jerusalem. Swap in pork for lamb, and a tortilla for a pita, and you've got the Mexican classic, Taco al Pastor.<span class="media-credit">Daniel Estrin</span></figcaption> </figure><p>Then the cuisine morphed: “During the 1960s, the Mexican-born children of these Lebanese migrants … start opening up their own restaurants, and they start to create a kind of a hybrid cuisine," Pilcher says.</p><p>“They take the technology that they grew up with in these Lebanese restaurants, the vertical rotisserie — but instead of using lamb, they use pork,” Pilcher says. “They marinate it in a red chili sauce, which gives it that distinctive color, and they cook these up and serve them and call them tacos al pastor.”</p><div class="edit-entity cta_align-left cta_no-icon" data-entity-id="79990" data-entity-title="StoryAct: Mexican Chinese food" data-entity-type="node">[[entity_id:"79990" entity_type:"node" entity_title:"StoryAct: Mexican Chinese food"]]</div><p>Even the term "al pastor,"which means "in the style of the shepherd," is a nod to the original Middle Eastern lamb version of the dish.</p><p>When Mexico’s economy boomed after World War II, tacos al pastor moved from small towns to bigger cities and eventually into the US.</p><p>The fact that this classic dish was a relatively recent import from the Middle East doesn’t necessarily make it any less Mexican, adds Pilcher, the taco historian. “Authenticity isn’t always something that dates back to the ancient Aztecs and Mayas,” he says. “That meaning of Mexico is continually being recreated in every generation.”</p><p>But whether it’s lamb or pork, tortilla or pita, Jerusalem or Portland, the essentials have remained the same: Fat and fire, a handful of spices, a quick meal — and a taste of tradition.</p></div><div class="MuiBox-root mui-style-1t8i9fu-root"><div class="MuiPaper-root MuiPaper-elevation MuiPaper-rounded MuiPaper-elevation0 MuiCard-root mui-style-1cif8be"><div class="MuiCardHeader-root mui-style-faujvq"><div 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the Ottoman Empire for the taco al pastor","excerpt":"\u003cp\u003eTaco al pastor, the classic Mexican street food that’s popular in the US, has roots in a surprising place: the Middle East. Thanks to immigrants from the former Ottoman Empire, the classic street dish of shawarma morphed into the beloved taco of today.\u003c/p\u003e\n","content":"\u003cp\u003eAt the Supermercado Mexico in Portland, Oregon, you\u0026rsquo;ll find a turning spit of pork, basted with chili and onions, dripping fat and flavor. Shave some off into a tortilla\u0026nbsp;and you\u0026rsquo;ve got a \u003cem\u003etaco al pastor\u003c/em\u003e, the classic Mexican street food.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt\u0026rsquo;s a similar scene halfway across the world in Jerusalem. At the hole-in-the-wall Al Waary restaurant, there\u0026rsquo;s a vertical rotisserie of beef spinning next to the flames, flavored by tangy vinegar. Shave some off into a pita, and you\u0026rsquo;ve got shawarma \u0026mdash;\u0026nbsp;the quintessential Middle Eastern street meat.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIf you\u0026#39;re thinking these beloved dishes might be linked, you\u0026#39;re right. So we hit the street food trail to find out,\u0026nbsp;starting in Jerusalem.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u0026ldquo;Shawarma is very, very interesting,\u0026rdquo; says Ali Qleibo, a Palestinian anthropologist, sitting at the Al Waary shawarma joint. The origin of the word shawarma comes from the Turkish word \u003cem\u003eçevirme, \u003c/em\u003ewhich means \u0026quot;turning.\u0026quot;\u003c/p\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"\u003e\n\t\t\t\t\t\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" src=\"https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/11.JPG\" alt=\"Ali Qleibo, a Palestinian anthropologist, in front of Al Waary shawarma stand in Jerusalem.\" class=\"wp-image-236090\"/\u003e\n\t\t\t\t\t\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"\u003eAli Qleibo, a Palestinian anthropologist, in front of Al Waary shawarma stand in Jerusalem.\u003cspan class=\"media-credit\"\u003eDaniel Estrin\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/figcaption\u003e\n\t\t\t\t\u003c/figure\u003e\u003cdiv class=\"edit-entity cta_border cta_align-right\" data-entity-id=\"80053\" data-entity-title=\"Story Act: Translations of Ottoman taco\" data-entity-type=\"node\"\u003e[[entity_id:\u0026quot;80053\u0026quot; entity_type:\u0026quot;node\u0026quot; entity_title:\u0026quot;Story Act: Translations of Ottoman taco\u0026quot;]]\u003c/div\u003e\u003cp\u003eYou can find some version of shawarma everywhere in\u0026nbsp;the Middle East\u0026nbsp;where the\u0026nbsp;Ottoman Empire once reigned.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u0026ldquo;Turks call it döner kebab;\u0026nbsp;Greeks call it gyro;\u0026nbsp;Iraqis call it kas,\u0026rdquo;\u0026nbsp;Qleibo says.\u0026nbsp;\u0026ldquo;This shows you the all-pervasive influence of the Ottoman Empire, because all the subjects of the Ottoman Empire eat shawarma\u0026nbsp;even though they call it by different names.\u0026rdquo;\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eOf course, the people of the Ottoman Empire didn\u0026rsquo;t all stay there. About 36,000 people under Ottoman rule\u0026nbsp;left for Mexico between the late 19th and early 20th century.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u0026ldquo;People came from as far as Egypt. I found some people [who] came from Iraq,\u0026rdquo; says Theresa Alfaro-Velcamp, a history professor at Sonoma State University\u0026nbsp;who has tracked the migration of Middle Easterners to Mexico.\u0026nbsp;\u0026ldquo;The majority came from the Levant, as it was called during that time, which is now modern-day Lebanon and Syria.\u0026rdquo;\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe migrants left for the usual reasons:\u0026nbsp;looking for economic opportunity, dodging army conscription\u0026nbsp;and escaping sectarian violence. And\u0026nbsp;when they arrived, they brought their food with them.\u0026nbsp;\u0026ldquo;By the 1930s, there were restaurants that served shawarma,\u0026rdquo; says Jeffrey Pilcher, a historian and author of the book \u0026quot;\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Taco-Global-History-Mexican/dp/0199740062\"\u003ePlanet Taco\u003c/a\u003e.\u0026quot;\u003c/p\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"\u003e\n\t\t\t\t\t\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"2560\" src=\"https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/story/images/CROPshawarma.jpg\" alt=\"A shawarma sandwich in Jerusalem. Swap in pork for lamb, and a tortilla for a pita, and you've got the Mexican classic, Taco al Pastor.\" class=\"wp-image-236091\"/\u003e\n\t\t\t\t\t\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"\u003eA shawarma sandwich in Jerusalem. Swap in pork for lamb, and a tortilla\u0026nbsp;for a pita, and you\u0026#39;ve got the Mexican classic, Taco al Pastor.\u003cspan class=\"media-credit\"\u003eDaniel Estrin\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/figcaption\u003e\n\t\t\t\t\u003c/figure\u003e\u003cp\u003eThen the cuisine morphed:\u0026nbsp;\u0026ldquo;During the 1960s, the Mexican-born children of these Lebanese migrants \u0026#8230; start opening up their own restaurants, and they start to create a kind of a hybrid cuisine,\u0026quot; Pilcher says.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u0026ldquo;They take the technology that they grew up with in these Lebanese restaurants, the vertical rotisserie \u0026mdash;\u0026nbsp;but instead of using lamb, they use pork,\u0026rdquo;\u0026nbsp;Pilcher says. \u0026ldquo;They marinate it in a red chili\u0026nbsp;sauce, which gives it that distinctive color, and they cook these up\u0026nbsp;and serve them\u0026nbsp;and call them tacos al pastor.\u0026rdquo;\u003c/p\u003e\u003cdiv class=\"edit-entity cta_align-left cta_no-icon\" data-entity-id=\"79990\" data-entity-title=\"StoryAct: Mexican Chinese food\" data-entity-type=\"node\"\u003e[[entity_id:\u0026quot;79990\u0026quot; entity_type:\u0026quot;node\u0026quot; entity_title:\u0026quot;StoryAct: Mexican Chinese food\u0026quot;]]\u003c/div\u003e\u003cp\u003eEven the term \u0026quot;al pastor,\u0026quot;\u003cem\u003e\u0026nbsp;\u003c/em\u003ewhich\u0026nbsp;means \u0026quot;in the style of the shepherd,\u0026quot; is\u0026nbsp;a nod to the original Middle Eastern lamb version of the dish.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eWhen\u0026nbsp;Mexico\u0026rsquo;s economy\u0026nbsp;boomed after World War II, tacos al pastor moved\u0026nbsp;from small towns to bigger cities and eventually\u0026nbsp;into the US.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe fact that this classic dish was a relatively recent import from the Middle East doesn\u0026rsquo;t necessarily make it any less Mexican, adds Pilcher, the taco historian.\u0026nbsp;\u0026ldquo;Authenticity isn\u0026rsquo;t always something that dates back to the ancient Aztecs and Mayas,\u0026rdquo; he says. \u0026ldquo;That meaning of Mexico is continually being recreated in every generation.\u0026rdquo;\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBut\u0026nbsp;whether it\u0026rsquo;s lamb or pork, tortilla or pita, Jerusalem or Portland, the essentials have remained the same:\u0026nbsp;Fat and fire, a\u0026nbsp;handful of spices, a\u0026nbsp;quick meal \u0026mdash; \u0026nbsp;and a taste of tradition.\u003c/p\u003e","date":"2015-05-06T15:36:04","featuredImage":{"node":{"id":"cG9zdDoyMzYwODc=","sourceUrl":"https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/story/images/5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg","mediaItemUrl":"https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/story/images/5682149811_68db0db2dc_o.jpg","altText":"Tacos al pastor from Carmela's Mexican Restaurant in Beaumont, Texas.","mediaDetails":{"width":2560,"height":2560,"__typename":"MediaDetails"},"imageFields":{"mediaCredit":"Randy Edwards/CC BY-NC-ND 2.0","mediaCreditUrl":null,"__typename":"MediaItem_Imagefields"},"__typename":"MediaItem","caption":"\u003cp\u003eTacos al pastor\u0026nbsp;from\u0026nbsp;Carmela\u0026#39;s Mexican Restaurant in\u0026nbsp;Beaumont, Texas.\u003c/p\u003e\n"},"__typename":"NodeWithFeaturedImageToMediaItemConnectionEdge"},"additionalDates":{"broadcastDate":"2015-05-07","updatedDate":"2015-05-08 17:30:00","__typename":"Post_Additionaldates"},"additionalMedia":{"audio":{"id":"cG9zdDoyMzYwODk=","sourceUrl":null,"mediaItemUrl":"https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/1nodefieldrefprogram/segment-audio/0507201508.mp3","__typename":"MediaItem"},"__typename":"Post_Additionalmedia"},"presentation":{"format":"standard","__typename":"Post_Presentation"},"contributors":{"nodes":[{"id":"dGVybToxMjQxNg==","name":"Daniel Estrin","link":"https://api.theworld.org/contributors/daniel-estrin","__typename":"Contributor"},{"id":"dGVybToxNjMxMw==","name":"Deena Prichep","link":"https://api.theworld.org/contributors/deena-prichep","__typename":"Contributor"}],"__typename":"PostToContributorConnection"},"storyFormats":{"nodes":[{"name":"Story","__typename":"StoryFormat"}],"__typename":"PostToStoryFormatConnection"},"resourceDevelopmentTags":{"nodes":[],"__typename":"PostToResourceDevelopmentTagConnection"},"programs":{"nodes":[{"id":"dGVybToxMjI3MA==","name":"The World","link":"https://api.theworld.org/programs/the-world","__typename":"Program"}],"__typename":"PostToProgramConnection"},"categories":{"nodes":[{"id":"dGVybToxMzk2NjE=","name":"Culture","link":"https://api.theworld.org/categories/arts-culture-media/culture","__typename":"Category"},{"id":"dGVybToxMzk2Nzg=","name":"Food","link":"https://api.theworld.org/categories/lifestyle-belief/food","__typename":"Category"},{"id":"dGVybToxMzk2MTg=","name":"Global Nation","link":"https://api.theworld.org/categories/immigration/global-nation","__typename":"Category"},{"id":"dGVybToxMzk5OTA=","name":"History","link":"https://api.theworld.org/categories/lifestyle-belief/history","__typename":"Category"},{"id":"dGVybToxMzk5NTE=","name":"Immigration","link":"https://api.theworld.org/categories/immigration","__typename":"Category"},{"id":"dGVybToxMzk2MjA=","name":"Lifestyle \u0026 Belief","link":"https://api.theworld.org/categories/lifestyle-belief","__typename":"Category"}],"__typename":"PostToCategoryConnection"},"primaryCategory":{"id":"dGVybToxMzk2Nzg=","name":"Food","link":"https://api.theworld.org/categories/lifestyle-belief/food","posts":{"nodes":[{"id":"cG9zdDo2NTA3NzA=","title":"The drink of India’s Indigenous people gets a modern twist","excerpt":"\u003cp\u003eOne legacy of British colonial rule in India is a ban on making and selling an Indigenous spirit called mahua. 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For many of the millions of displaced Ukrainians, the path to safety was a treacherous one. This is the story of one young man\u0026#8217;s escape from war-torn Ukraine.\u003c/p\u003e\n","link":"https://api.theworld.org/stories/2025/02/21/the-dream-of-living-in-ukraine-feels-utopian-one-mans-escape-from-war-torn-ukraine","featuredImage":{"node":{"id":"cG9zdDo2NTI2MDc=","sourceUrl":"https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/uploads/2025/02/2025-02-21-PASHA01.jpeg","mediaItemUrl":"https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/uploads/2025/02/2025-02-21-PASHA01.jpeg","altText":"","mediaDetails":{"width":1600,"height":900,"__typename":"MediaDetails"},"imageFields":{"mediaCredit":"Courtesy of Pavlo \"Pasha\" Siryi","mediaCreditUrl":null,"__typename":"MediaItem_Imagefields"},"__typename":"MediaItem"},"__typename":"NodeWithFeaturedImageToMediaItemConnectionEdge"},"primaryCategory":{"id":"dGVybToxNDAwNDg=","name":"Ukraine","link":"https://api.theworld.org/categories/conflict-justice/ukraine","__typename":"Category"},"additionalMedia":{"audio":{"id":"cG9zdDo2NTI1OTE=","audioFields":{"audioTitle":"Escape from war: 1 Ukrainian man's journey","__typename":"MediaItem_Audiofields"},"__typename":"MediaItem"},"__typename":"Post_Additionalmedia"},"__typename":"Post"},{"id":"cG9zdDo2NTI1NzE=","title":"German voters weigh options ahead of election hinging on immigration, sluggish economy","excerpt":"\u003cp\u003eGermany heads to the polls on Sunday, with the country\u0026#8217;s stagnant economy and heated rows over immigration policy dominating conversations on the campaign trail.\u003c/p\u003e\n","link":"https://api.theworld.org/stories/2025/02/21/german-voters-weigh-options-ahead-of-election-hinging-on-immigration-sluggish-economy","featuredImage":{"node":{"id":"cG9zdDo2NTI1NzI=","sourceUrl":"https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/uploads/2025/02/2025-02-21-Germany-elections-lede-scaled.jpeg","mediaItemUrl":"https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/uploads/2025/02/2025-02-21-Germany-elections-lede-scaled.jpeg","altText":"","mediaDetails":{"width":2560,"height":1440,"__typename":"MediaDetails"},"imageFields":{"mediaCredit":"Joshua Coe/The World","mediaCreditUrl":null,"__typename":"MediaItem_Imagefields"},"__typename":"MediaItem"},"__typename":"NodeWithFeaturedImageToMediaItemConnectionEdge"},"primaryCategory":{"id":"dGVybToxNDAwMDA=","name":"Elections","link":"https://api.theworld.org/categories/politics/elections","__typename":"Category"},"additionalMedia":{"audio":{"id":"cG9zdDo2NTI1ODE=","audioFields":{"audioTitle":"The economy and migration dominate German election campaign","__typename":"MediaItem_Audiofields"},"__typename":"MediaItem"},"__typename":"Post_Additionalmedia"},"__typename":"Post"},{"id":"cG9zdDo2NTI1NjM=","title":"North Korea opens for Western tourists ","excerpt":"\u003cp\u003eOn Thursday, North Korea let Western tourists visit for the first time since 2020. But there are ethical issues around taking a vacation in an autocratic nation. \u003c/p\u003e\n","link":"https://api.theworld.org/stories/2025/02/20/north-korea-opens-for-western-tourists","featuredImage":{"node":{"id":"cG9zdDo2NTI1Njc=","sourceUrl":"https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/uploads/2025/02/AP617553497583-scaled.jpg","mediaItemUrl":"https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/uploads/2025/02/AP617553497583-scaled.jpg","altText":"","mediaDetails":{"width":2560,"height":1707,"__typename":"MediaDetails"},"imageFields":{"mediaCredit":"David Guttenfelder/AP","mediaCreditUrl":null,"__typename":"MediaItem_Imagefields"},"__typename":"MediaItem"},"__typename":"NodeWithFeaturedImageToMediaItemConnectionEdge"},"primaryCategory":{"id":"dGVybToxMzk2MjA=","name":"Lifestyle \u0026 Belief","link":"https://api.theworld.org/categories/lifestyle-belief","__typename":"Category"},"additionalMedia":{"audio":{"id":"cG9zdDo2NTI1NTM=","audioFields":{"audioTitle":"North Korea opens for Western tourists","__typename":"MediaItem_Audiofields"},"__typename":"MediaItem"},"__typename":"Post_Additionalmedia"},"__typename":"Post"},{"id":"cG9zdDo2NTI1MDU=","title":"Latvian animated film, ‘Flow,’ nominated for Oscars","excerpt":"\u003cp\u003e\u0026#8220;Flow\u0026#8221; is an animated film from Latvia, with no dialogue, about a cat. Despite its modest budget, and coming from a small independent studio, it’s already won a Golden Globe and is generating serious Oscar buzz. The World’s Daniel Ofman reports that this passion project is finding a worldwide audience and is resonating because of its universal message.\u003c/p\u003e\n","link":"https://api.theworld.org/stories/2025/02/20/latvian-animated-film-flow-nominated-for-oscars","featuredImage":{"node":{"id":"cG9zdDo2NTI1Mzg=","sourceUrl":"https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/uploads/2025/02/2025-02-20-flow-crew-lede-1.jpg","mediaItemUrl":"https://media.pri.org/s3fs-public/uploads/2025/02/2025-02-20-flow-crew-lede-1.jpg","altText":"","mediaDetails":{"width":2048,"height":1152,"__typename":"MediaDetails"},"imageFields":{"mediaCredit":"Flow - an animated film/Facebook","mediaCreditUrl":"https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=122114454536297773\u0026set=pb.61558933193218.-2207520000","__typename":"MediaItem_Imagefields"},"__typename":"MediaItem"},"__typename":"NodeWithFeaturedImageToMediaItemConnectionEdge"},"primaryCategory":{"id":"dGVybToxMzk2MTU=","name":"Arts, Culture \u0026 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