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href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/king-george-v-dock-the-last-of-the-royals/" rel="bookmark">King George V Dock – The Last of the Royals</a> </h1> <div class="comments-link"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/king-george-v-dock-the-last-of-the-royals/#comments">11 Replies</a> </div> </header> <div class="entry-content"> In my final post exploring the Royal Docks, I am looking at the King George V Dock, the last of the three docks that make up the Royals, and was opened in 1921. I have a copy of the book that was issued to commemorate the opening of the King George V Dock, and at the back of the book are some fold out paper maps, one with a view of all the docks from St. Katherine out to Tilbury, and the following is an extract from the map showing the Royal Docks as they were following completion of the new, third dock (the map is a bit creased. It is 100 years old and of very thin paper so I did not want to put too much pressure on the folds): <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-40-scaled.jpg"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1983" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-40-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21316" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-40-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-40-300x232.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The King George V Dock is the dock on the right, below the Royal Albert, and in the map it is marked Royal Albert Dock Extension (South). The book and map were issued in advance of the formal opening by King George V, so I assume it was the wrong thing to do with royal protocol to give the new dock’s name before the King had officially opened and named the dock. Another point with the map, is that the Port of London Authority were considering a fourth dock for the Royals complex. The red lettering above the Royal Albert Dock is marked as a “Site for dock”. This additional dock was never built, and future expansion by the Port of London Authority would be focused on Tilbury. It is not possible to walk alongside the majority of the King George V dock. London City Airport occupies the northern side of the dock, whilst other parts of the airport (car parks, offices etc.) occupy much of the southern side, and the one road that ran alongside the dock is fenced off. So to look at the dock, I am taking a walk along Woolwich Manor Way and the Sir Steve Redgrave Bridge, which provide a good view along the length of the King George V Dock, as well as the lock entrances and the Royal Albert Dock. The route I am taking is shown by the red dashed line in the following map, starting from the bottom of the line, looking to the west, then returning on the other side of the bridge, looking at the view to the east (<a href="https://www.openstreetmap.org/copyright">© OpenStreetMap contributors)</a>: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-39.jpg"><img decoding="async" width="1024" height="664" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-39-1024x664.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21312" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-39-1024x664.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-39-300x195.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-39-768x498.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-39-624x405.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-39.jpg 1311w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> Detail from the map at the top of the post shows the Royal Albert Dock Extension, or the King George V Dock as it would be officially known following the opening ceremony: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-41.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-41.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21317"/></a></figure> The road I am following in today’s post is shown in the above map, running over the lower of the three locks to the right, before bending to avoid the Basin, although today the road is straight and a bridge runs over the Basin. There is no access to the south of the King George V Dock, the road that runs along the south side is fenced off from the east. The blue sign is offering a welcome to London City Airport, although there is no public access from this direction: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-1.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-1.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21274"/></a></figure> A look through the gates, and the road disappears off to where the car parks for the airport are located, with access being from the terminal building at the far west of the dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-2-scaled.jpg"><img decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-2-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21275" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-2-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> So I am continuing along the Woolwich Manor Way, up to the bridge that runs over the lock between the dock and the river: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-3-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-3-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21276" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-3-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-3-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Looking along the lifting bridge over the lock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-4.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-4.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21277"/></a></figure> And from the middle of the bridge, we can look to the west, along the full length of the King George V Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-6-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-6-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21279" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-6-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-6-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The new dock was needed because the size of ships continued to grow, and there were now ships that were larger than could be accommodated by the Royal Victoria or Royal Albert Docks. The book published for the opening of the dock provides some insight: “The largest work yet undertaken by the Port Authority has been the construction of the great dock which his Majesty King George V, has graciously consented to open, and which, in point of importance, is surpassed by no other undertaking of a similar nature carried out during recent years. The improvement in Port facilities by its completion may be illustrated by the fact that, whereas the largest vessel which hitherto could be accommodated in the docks was limited to about 19,000 gross register tons and that only at Tilbury, a distance of 26 miles below London bridge, the new dock will permit of vessels up to 30,000 tons being berthed within six and a half miles of the heart of the City.” The above text shows that in the early 1920s, the proximity of the docks to the heart of the City of London was still an important factor. There were still many warehouses and trading establishments in the City which received and traded goods coming into the docks. The text also illustrates why, despite the opening of the new dock, their long term demise could have been foreseen. The story of all the London docks is one of expansion and movement east along the Thames. This was to move to locations where there was sufficient space for very large docks, and where the River Thames was deep enough for large ships to sail. Ship sizes would continue to grow, and the eventual lack of available space, and the limited depth of the river, would seal the fate of the docks from the Royals, west towards central London. A fate that was confirmed with the arrival of containerisation. The book published for the opening of the dock starts with a wonderful artwork showing the ship carrying the King, entering the King George V dock, under the lifting bridge, with probably PLA staff and other dignitaries standing on the side of the lock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-26-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1913" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-26-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21299" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-26-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-26-300x224.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The coat of arms are those of the Port of London Authority, with individual components from the arms on the flag. The motto of the PLA “May the Port of the Empire Flourish” is below the arms. Again, as mentioned earlier, the book does not mention the name King George V Dock. The new dock on the title page is simply the “Southern Extension of the Royal Victoria and Albert System”. The King George V Dock was of a considerable size. Last week’s post on the locks connecting the Royal Docks to Gallions Reach described the entrance lock, and the following is again taken from the same book, and describes the scale of the dock, as well as the infrastructure that enabled flexible loading and unloading between ship and multiple land-side methods for storage or onward transport: “The wet dock has a water area of 64 acres and a depth of 38 feet, and is surrounded by quay walls of an aggregate length of approximately 10,000 feet, providing fourteen berths for steamers of the largest size. The length of the dock is 4,578 feet and the width varies from 710 feet at the eastern end to 500 feet at the western end. A swing bridge, weighing about 1,800 tons, carries the dock road and the rail traffic across the passage which communicates with the Royal Albert Dock. On the north side of the dock, three double storey sheds, each about 1,100 feet long, are being erected with a width on the ground floor of 110 feet. Reinforced concrete has been adopted for the framework and floors of the sheds, with brick panels, and the roofs have been constructed on the ‘North Light’ principle with steel trusses. Two lines of railway are laid along the quay, 50 feet wide, and a loading platform and three lines of railway have been provided at the rear of the sheds. Twenty-four 3-ton electric level-huffing cranes constitute the cargo handling appliances on the North Quay itself, but each shed is further equipped with eight 1-ton electric underhung revolving jib cranes travelling transversely through the shed, which are capable of dealing with goods from the quayside or from the railway trucks or carts on the land side and depositing them on any portion of the upper floor or through hatchways on to the lower floor. The quay cranes are capable of lifting three tons at a radius of 60 feet, or a slightly reduced load at a maximum radius of 65 feet.” The book for the opening of the King George V Dock included some wonderful paintings showing the appearance of the dock after completion, and in operation: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-27-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1879" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-27-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21300"/></a></figure> The painting shows the lock to the Thames at lower right, and the passage to the Royal Albert Dock at upper right, with the swing bridge for road and rail traffic. Also shown is the lifting bridge over the end of the entrance lock, where it meets the dock – the point where I was standing to take the photo of the whole of the dock earlier in the post. The painting also shows the sheds and cranes lining both side of the dock, as described in the book, which also includes an aerial photo of the Royal Docks, with the King George V Dock labelled as “The New Dock” on the left (the photo shows the new dock as being far wider than the Royal Victoria or Albert docks) <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-30-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1778" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-30-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21303" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-30-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-30-300x208.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Another painting from the book shows the dock as it would be when full of ships up against the quays, along with barges being pulled by tugs: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-28.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-28.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21301"/></a></figure> And another painting showing some detail of the southern quayside, with the Thames in the background: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-29-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1848" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-29-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21302" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-29-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-29-300x217.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> in the above painting we can see how the south side of the dock differed from the north. Along the northern side of the dock, ships moored directly alongside the quay, however on the southern side: “Here are seven reinforced concrete jetties, each 520 feet long and 22 feet wide, have been constructed at a distance of 32 feet from the face of the wall, the only shore connection being by means of a timber footbridge. Ships will berth on the outside of the jetties, and the electric cranes, six to each jetty, will discharge goods direct from the ship’s side either on to the quay for delivery to carts or railway trucks, or for sorting and temporary storage in the sheds behind, or direct into barges lying in the space reserved for them between the jetties and the wall. this arrangement has been specially designed to facilitate the discharge of the large proportion of goods arriving for delivery direct into barges.” Again, flexibility was key, and as well as the ability to take much larger ships, the king George V Dock also offered multiple methods of transferring cargo. Photo of the sheds along the north the of the dock, before the cranes were installed: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-32-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="313" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-32-1024x313.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21305" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-32-1024x313.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-32-300x92.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-32-768x235.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-32-1536x469.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-32-2048x626.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-32-624x191.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> When we look at the dock today, we see a large expanse of water, with just a few feet of concrete above the water along the quayside. What we cannot see is the significant amount of construction below the ground / water level, and the book to mark the opening of the dock includes some illustrations where we can see the depth and width of the concrete quayside, and the depth of piling needed to support the warehouses: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-35-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="537" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-35-1024x537.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21308" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-35-1024x537.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-35-300x157.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-35-768x403.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> The drawing also shows how flat bottomed ships of the day were, which enabled the ship to carry large amounts of cargo. I mentioned this in the previous post where the lock into the Royal Victoria Dock was originally a slight V shape, which matched the shape of the hulls of Victorian shipping, but had to be flattened to accommodate ships in later decades. The following photo shows the north quay in use, with a floating crane moored alongside a ship to assist with unloading into barges: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-44-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="805" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-44-1024x805.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21326" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-44-1024x805.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-44-300x236.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-44-768x604.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-44-1536x1207.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-44-2048x1610.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-44-624x490.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> View along the south side of the dock, showing the cranes installed on their jetties: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-33-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="422" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-33-1024x422.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21306" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-33-1024x422.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-33-300x124.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-33-768x316.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-33-1536x633.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-33-2048x844.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-33-624x257.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> And this is the drawing showing the construction of the southern side of the dock, with the crane on a jetty and space for barges between the quayside and the jetty. Unlike the northern side of the dock, the southern side had a sloping base from the jetty up to the dock, as there was no intention for ships to be moored directly alongside the quay. <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-34-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1354" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-34-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21307" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-34-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-34-300x159.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Detail of the southern side of the dock in use can be seen in the following photo: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-45-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="2298" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-45-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21325" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-45-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-45-300x269.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Even with a photo of the King George V Dock without water, it is still hard to appreciate the full scale of the dock. The following photo shows the dock, which appears to be fully excavated. The view is from the east, looking west, and the southern edge of the dock is on the left, where we can see the wooden construction of the jetties which have yet to have their cranes installed: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-36-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="709" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-36-1024x709.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21309" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-36-1024x709.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-36-300x208.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-36-768x531.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-36-1536x1063.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-36-2048x1417.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-36-624x432.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> Work on the dock started in August 1912, however work came to a standstill during much of the First World War due to shortages of men and material. Work recommenced in the Autumn of 1918. The following describes how the docks were equipped and the enormous volumes of materials that were involved: “The general equipment of the dock includes floating cranes, tugs, locomotives, rolling stock, electric trucks, conveyors, piling machines, and other labour-aiding appliances of the most modern type for the efficient and rapid handling of cargo. Altogether about 5,000,000 cubic yards of material have been excavated for the works, of which 2,000,000 cubic yards have been deposited at sea. The whole of the ballast required, over 500,000 cubic yards, was obtained from the excavations on the site and use in admixture with about 100,000 tons of Portland Cement for the concrete.” One of the more unusual features of the King George V Dock was that it had a dry dock at the western end of the dock. A dry dock is a dock where a ship can be floated into the dock. Gates are then closed across the access to the dry dock and the water is pumped out. The hull of the ship is then in the dry, and maintenance or repairs can then be performed on the hull. The following photo shows the dry dock just before the opening of the King George V Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-38.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-38.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21311"/></a></figure> The location of the dock is within the red oval in the following extract from an early 1950s edition of the OS map. Whilst the docks are not named, the King George V is the lower dock with the Royal Albert above (Map <a href="https://maps.nls.uk/index.html">‘Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland</a>“): <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-42.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="511" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-42-1024x511.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21320" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-42-1024x511.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-42-300x150.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-42-768x383.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-42-624x311.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-42.jpg 1390w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> From the bridge, we can look across to the passage between the King George V and Royal Albert Docks. There was originally a swing bridge over this passage which carried a road and rail tracks: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-5-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-5-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21278"/></a></figure> Although today we cannot find any cargo vessels in the King George V Dock, there is an old light vessel. This is Light Vessel 93: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-7-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1682" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-7-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21280"/></a></figure> The following history of the light vessel is from the vessel’s entry in the register of National Historic Ships UK, and the entry and source of the following text can be found by clicking on the text: <a href="https://www.nationalhistoricships.org.uk/register/2872/light-vessel-93#:~:text=History,Thames%20between%201947%20and%201953.">“LIGHT VESSEL 93 was ordered by Trinity House in 1938 and was built by Philip & Son of Dartmouth. She is a vessel of riveted steel construction. She first served on the Galloper Station and then on mine watching duties on the Thames between 1947 and 1953. After further service on the East Goodwin and Galloper Stations she had renovations carried out by Swan Hunter in 1980 and Holman & Sons of Penzance in 1996.</a> <a href="https://www.nationalhistoricships.org.uk/register/2872/light-vessel-93#:~:text=History,Thames%20between%201947%20and%201953.">After conversion to solar power in 1998 she had further service at Inner Dowsing Station, Sunk Station and Foxtrot 3 before being sold into private ownership in 2004. She is used as a photographic studio, events and exhibition space.” </a> The light vessel was moored in the Royal Victoria Dock, close to the mill buildings, but was moved earlier this year in preparation for the foot bridge that is planned to be built across the Royal Victoria Dock, as part of the redevelopment of the land around the Millennium Mill. When London City Airport was built, it was over the land between the King George V and Royal Albert Docks, with part of the airport, and a later extension of the aircraft stand area, and equipment and vehicle holding area. The extensions over the dock were built on piles, and the following photo is looking across to the airport, with the runway on the right, and we can just see part of the piles between the surface area of the airport and the water of the dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-8-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-8-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21281" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-8-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-8-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The bridge carrying the Woolwich Manor Way over the entrance lock is still a lifting bridge, although the current bridge is not the original. Standing in the middle of the bridge we can see where the two sides of the bridge meet, with the water of the lock visible below: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-9-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-9-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21282" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-9-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-9-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The presence of London City Airport can be felt when walking around the Royal Docks, and parts of North Woolwich and Silvertown. The bridge is also at the end of the runway, and adjacent to the approach lights, and we can look straight down to the runway and the planes taking off: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-11.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-11.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21284"/></a></figure> Or landing: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-12-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-12-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21285" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-12-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-12-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The above photo shows just how much this whole area has changed. Part of the dock water can be seen on the right of the photo and the grey blocks of the Millennium Mills are in the centre. These are from the time when the Royal Docks were the largest of London’s docks, with enormous volumes of cargo passing through. In the foreground we see a plane coming into land at London City Airport – in some ways continuing the use of the area for transporting things internationally. Whilst the docks served passengers and cargo via ships, the airport now moves passengers via planes. In the background are the towers around Canary Wharf on the Isle of Dogs, built on another London dock complex. On the left is the O2 / Millennium Dome, built on what was a highly industrial area of the Greenwich Peninsula. Continuing along the bridge, and we pass over the Royal Albert Dock. the passage between the King George V and Royal Albert can be seen on the left: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-13-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-13-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21286" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-13-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-13-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> At the end of the bridge, we arrive at the road network north of the docks, along with the DLR. Just below the road direction sign is a reminder of when the Excel Exhibition Centre was a Nightingale Hospital: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-14-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1674" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-14-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21287" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-14-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-14-300x196.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> This section of the bridge is named “The Steve Redgrave Bridge” (possibly because of the Royal Docks rowing centre nearby): <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-15-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-15-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21288" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-15-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-15-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> I am now walking back along the eastern side of the bridge, the side that faces towards the Thames, and therefore the locks from the Royal Docks to the river, and here we get another view of the impounding station that pumps water from the river into the docks to maintain water levels. From this perspective we can also see the new development at this end of the Royal Albert, surrounding the impounding station: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-16.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-16.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21289"/></a></figure> We then come to the first of the locks from the docks to the river. This is the lock from last week’s post where the width of the lock has been considerably reduced so a much smaller (and cheaper) set of lock gates could be installed. just how much the width of the lock has been reduced can be seen when looking through the lock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-17-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-17-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21290" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-17-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-17-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> And then the second lock. This is the one that has mainly been filled in, with only a small part remaining at the dock, and into the river: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-18-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-18-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21291" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-18-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-18-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> And we then come to the derelict area between the Royal Albert Basin and the lock into the King George V dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-19-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-19-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21292" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-19-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-19-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> View over this area: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-20-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-20-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21293" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-20-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-20-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> In the following photo is where Gallions Road joins Woolwich Manor Way. Gallions Road is the road where I found the other end closed in last week’s post, requiring an alternative route along the bush and butterfly alley that ran next to the Thames, which was in fact, a far better route: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-10-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-10-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21283" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-10-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-10-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> There is a blue sign just visible to the left of the above photo. The sign is for Gallions Point Marina which was once reached down this closed road. Gallions Point Marina was in the Basin between the eastern end of the Royal Albert Dock and the lock into the Thames. In my walk around the Royal Docks I could find no evidence of a marina, and the space once occupied by Gallions Point Marina is empty. <a href="https://gallionspointmarina.co.uk/">Strangely, their website is still online.</a> The marina was a casualty of plans to redevelop Albert Island, the derelict area between the locks for the Royal Albert and King George V. The Greater London Authority (GLA) had been trying to take possession of the land used by the marina, and despite attempts of mediation between the company and the GLA, there was no agreement. The GLA then took legal action and evicted the staff of the Marina on the 9th of October 2018, and took possession of the land. In 2017, the GLA had selected London and Regional Properties  as the developers of the site, and in 2021 outline planning approval was granted for the redevelopment scheme, which does include a boat yard, storage buildings and warehouse, and according to the original requirements of the GLA, facilities for repair and maintenance work on ships that use the Thames. The development has a <a href="https://albertisland.london/">website which can be found by clicking here</a>, and the home page includes an image of some impressive ship repair facilities. If the area is developed as the GLA originally intended, it will be a suitable development for the site, maintaining the relationship with the river and shipping that has been the whole history of the Royal Docks. The rather good alley along the Thames with the hundreds of butterflies will be lost though, but there is planned to be public access – hopefully still along the river and across the locks, and hopefully the redevelopment will include many references to the heritage of the site. Continuing along Woolwich Manor Way, and I have now reached the point where the bridge crosses the lock into the King George V dock, this is the lifting bridge shown earlier in the post, and I can look along the lock out to the Thames: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-21-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-21-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21294" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-21-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-21-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The area to the right of the lock in the above photo has already been redeveloped. Albert Island is the area to the left, <a href="https://www.propertyinsidelondon.com/300m-albert-island-london-docklands-scheme-approved/">and in this website (click here)</a>, there is an image of the proposed new development, showing buildings up to the lock. As mentioned earlier in the post, when you look at the docks, it is hard to appreciate their size. Water up to a few feet below the sides of the dock does not give an appreciation of the depth, however the following photo is of the lock into the King George V dock under construction, the same lock as shown in my photo above, and illustrates the size, and the complexity of the lock’s build: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-37-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="699" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-37-1024x699.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21310" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-37-1024x699.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-37-300x205.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-37-768x524.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-37-1536x1049.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-37-2048x1398.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-37-624x426.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> The bridge I was standing on to take a photo of the lock is the latest version of the bridge carrying Woolwich Manor Way across the lock, and dates from 1990. The original version of the bridge, completed at the same time as the King George V dock is shown in the following photo, looking from the lock into the dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-31-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1552" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-31-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21304" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-31-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-31-300x182.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> I have repeated below the painting from the front of the book issued to commemorate the opening of the King George V Dock, as the painting is of the same view as in the above photo: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-43-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1913" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-43-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21323" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-43-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-43-300x224.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The dock was opened on the 8th of July, 1921 by King George V, who, during the ceremony to open the dock said that “I have much pleasure in acceding to your request that the dock shall be known as the King George V Dock.” I assume that this is why all documentation and references to the dock prior to the opening used terms such as “new dock”, of as the “Southern Extension of the Royal Victoria & Albert Dock”, as in the front page shown above. It was probably not royal protocol to assume the name before the King had publically granted his approval. The opening ceremony started with a “river pageant”, with the King boarding a boat at Westminster Pier and changing to a larger boat after passing under London Bridge. There was a Royal salute fired by the gun battery at the Tower of London, shipping, warehouses, wharves and buildings along the river displayed flags and bunting, and the sides of the river were lined with people cheering as the King and Queen passed. After two hours, they reached the entrance to the King George V Dock, and entered the lock, with children singing “patriotic airs” along the lock edge, which was also lined by seamen from H.M.S. Pembroke and boys from the Royal Hospital School at Greenwich, as well as a number of naval ships. The King’s ship (the Rover) entered the dock through the lock, and moored alongside a transit shed at the north side of the dock, where there was a large assembly of Government and Port of London Authority officials, as well as members of the Royal Household, Ambassadors, Royal Watermen, the Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishops of Southwark and Barking. In reply to an address by the chairman of the Port of London Authority, the King’s speech at the quayside included references to the history of the London docks: “Your address reminds us of the great antiquity of London as a port. Even in the far-off days of the Romans it was frequented by foreign merchants and trading ships, and the history of its development into the largest port in the world must appeal to every sailor and every merchant who has any feeling for the romance of his calling. The port in which Chaucer worked as a Custom House official, in which Drake, the founder of our sea power, entertained his Sovereign on board the Golden Hind is deeply interwoven with the fabric of English history. From those times onward the traffic and discoveries of our ancestors have brought an increasing commerce to the shores of the Thames until it is not to much to say that here the highways of the oceans meet. You have referred to the natural advantages of the Thames estuary and to the enterprise of the trading community as the two great factors in the advancement of the Port of London. For many centuries seamen and merchants were content to rely on the first of these, but during the last hundred years improvements in ship building and the growth of the trade of London have rendered it necessary in an increasing degree to call in commercial effort and engineering skill to supplement natural advantages.” The King continued in the same vein and also remarking on the increasing size of ships that the new dock would be able to support, and finally the King declared the new dock open as the King George V Dock, and unlike the two hour pageant down the river, the royal party took cars back from the docks to Buckingham Palace. The north side of the dock, and from the images of the redevelopment of Albert Island, the PLA building on the side of the dock will disappear: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-22.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-22.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21295"/></a></figure> The lock, as well as the dock, is used as a temporary holding place for the equipment that performs much of the infrastructure work along the river, and this leads to some very strange vessels to be seen – I have no idea what the following vessel does: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-23-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1679" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-23-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21296" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-23-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-23-300x197.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The south side of the lock into the King George V dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-24-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-24-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21297" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-24-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-24-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> A final look as I continue south along Woolwich Manor Way. In years to come, this view will be very different: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-25-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-25-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21298" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-25-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/King-George-V-Dock-25-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> And the above view concludes my exploration of the Royal Docks, an absolutely fascinating area that demonstrates the sheer size and ambition of the London Docks, the civil engineering, the enormous volumes of trade that passed through these docks, and the passengers who departed and arrived on ships from across the world – a history that I hope will be told in future development. As mentioned earlier in the post, the need for the King George V Dock to support ever increasing ship size should have hinted at the future closure of the London dock system, when there was not enough land for docks, and the Thames was not deep enough to bring any larger ships up to the Royals. Dredging the Thames to provide a channel was already an ongoing problem. The docks at Tilbury continue in operation, and the really large container ships do still use the Thames, arriving at the London Gateway port, just to the west of Canvey Island. The London Gateway continues to expand, and a couple of days ago, the shipping company Maersk announced that in 2025 it is moving from the Port of Felixstowe in Suffolk, to the London Gateway in the Thames. I have not really covered the working history of the docks – something hopefully for a future post, There are a couple of places in Silvertown I still need to cover, probably the subject for an extra post, but for now, that is the Royal Docks – well worth a visit and long walk. I have used many excellent books, LDDC publications, newspapers etc. to research the Royal Docks. The following are a sample of some of the books, which are often available online: <ul> <li>Dockland – An illustrated historical survey of life and work in east London, published by the North East London Polytechnic (1986)</li> <li>A London Docklands Guide by Tony Phillips (1986)</li> <li>History of the Port of London by Sir Joseph Broodbank, Chairman of the Dock & Warehouse Committee of the PLA (1921)</li> <li>London Docklands. Past, present and future by Professor S.K. Al Naib (1994)</li> <li>Liquid History by Arthur Bryant (1960)</li> <li>The Port of London Yesterday and Today by D.J. Owen, General Manager of the Port of London Authority (1927)</li> <li>The Said Noble River by Alan Bell (1937)</li> <li>London Docks 1800 – 1980. A civil engineering history by Ivan S. Greeves (1980)</li> <li>Discover London Docklands. An A to Z Illustrated Guide by Professor S.K. Al Naib (1992)</li> <li>The Port of London – A brief survey of its History with outline of its present facilities and Trade. Published by the Port of London Authority (1931)</li> </ul> The Royal Docks are a fascinating area to walk (if there is interest, I may do a walk around the Royals next year), but until the weather improves, and if you read this on the day of publication, as Storm Bert sweeps the country, you may be interested in the following films on life on the river and the Royal Docks. The first, from the British Film Institute does not feature the Royal Docks, but it is from the 1930s and shows much of the working river in colour: <a href="https://player.bfi.org.uk/free/film/watch-colour-on-the-thames-1935-online">https://player.bfi.org.uk/free/film/watch-colour-on-the-thames-1935-online</a> There were once tours via boat into the Royal Docks, and the following colour film from 1966 shows a cruise along the river, before entering the Royal Docks, at the King George V lock, the bridge carrying Woolwich Manor Way opening, and then a tour through the Royal Docks: <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-4-3 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/NF8hKdNxZLI?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&start=436&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> A British Pathe film showing the working docks: <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-4-3 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/J81HZaD7xP4?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/">alondoniheritance.com</a> <div class="sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled"><div class="robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing"><h3 class="sd-title">Share this:</h3><div class="sd-content"><ul><li class="share-twitter"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-url="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/king-george-v-dock-the-last-of-the-royals/" data-text="King George V Dock - The Last of the Royals" data-via="VanishedLondon" >Tweet</a></li><li class="share-facebook"><div class="fb-share-button" data-href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/king-george-v-dock-the-last-of-the-royals/" data-layout="button_count"></div></li><li><a href="#" class="sharing-anchor sd-button share-more">More</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul><div class="sharing-hidden"><div class="inner" style="display: none;width:150px;"><ul style="background-image:none;"><li class="share-bluesky"><a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" data-shared="sharing-bluesky-21313" class="share-bluesky sd-button" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/king-george-v-dock-the-last-of-the-royals/?share=bluesky" target="_blank" title="Click to share on Bluesky" >Bluesky</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div> </div> <footer class="entry-meta"> This entry was posted in <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/london-infrastructure/" rel="category tag">London Infrastructure</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/the-thames/" rel="category tag">The Thames</a> and tagged <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/king-george-v-dock/" rel="tag">King George V Dock</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/royal-albert-dock/" rel="tag">Royal Albert Dock</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/royal-docks/" rel="tag">Royal Docks</a> on <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/king-george-v-dock-the-last-of-the-royals/" title="7:30 am" rel="bookmark"><time class="entry-date" datetime="2024-11-24T07:30:00+00:00">November 24, 2024</time></a> by <a class="url fn n" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/author/admin/" title="View all posts by admin" rel="author">admin</a>. </footer> </article> <article id="post-21256" class="post-21256 post type-post status-publish format-standard hentry category-london-infrastructure category-the-thames tag-gallions-reach tag-royal-albert-dock tag-royal-docks"> <header class="entry-header"> <h1 class="entry-title"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/the-gallions-reach-entrances-to-the-royal-docks/" rel="bookmark">The Gallions Reach Entrances to the Royal Docks</a> </h1> <div class="comments-link"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/the-gallions-reach-entrances-to-the-royal-docks/#comments">20 Replies</a> </div> </header> <div class="entry-content"> In this week’s post I am continuing my walk around the Royal Docks, starting from where I ended last week’s post, at the eastern end of the Royal Albert Docks, and where the entrance locks to the Royal Albert and King George V docks from the Thames at Gallions Reach can be found. In North Woolwich I also find a sad example of how a pub’s façade has been included in a new development. The red dashed line in the following map shows my route, starting at upper right, crossing over the entrances to the docks, then walking through parts of North Woolwich towards Silvertown (<a href="https://www.openstreetmap.org/copyright">© OpenStreetMap contributors)</a>: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-98.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="563" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-98-1024x563.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21255" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-98-1024x563.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-98-300x165.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-98-768x422.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-98-624x343.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-98.jpg 1171w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> The above map shows just two entrances, one to the basin which connects to the Royal Albert Dock, and a longer entrance that connects to the King George V Dock, however there were originally three entrance locks, as shown in the following map from when the docks were operational: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-99.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="691" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-99-1024x691.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21258" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-99-1024x691.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-99-300x202.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-99-768x518.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-99-1536x1036.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-99-2048x1381.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-99-624x421.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> The lower entrance to the Basin has been filled in, although there is a short stretch remaining of the old lock where it meets the Basin, and where it originally entered the Thames. The upper entrance, the locked stretch of water between the Thames and the Basin remains, however today has a much smaller lock gate, as the point in the lock where the gate is located has been narrowed by a rectangular block of land built over the channel where the lock gate is located. In the following photo, the impounding station that was at the end of last week’s post is just behind the new block of apartments on the right, and you can see how the lock has been narrowed, as I am standing on the infill, and the original width of the lock can be seen after the last lamp post: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-52-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-52-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21210" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-52-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-52-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The following photo is from Britain from Above and shows the three locked entrances (<a href="https://www.britainfromabove.org.uk/image/eaw008722" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Source: EAW008722 ENGLAND (1947). The Royal Albert Dock and the King George V Dock, North Woolwich, 1947</a>): <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-97.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="605" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-97-1024x605.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21254" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-97-1024x605.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-97-300x177.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-97-768x454.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-97-624x369.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-97.jpg 1446w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> The red rectabgle on the right is the infill over part of the lock, with the new lock gate being the red line. The infill enabled a much smaller lock gate to be fitted (and presumably at much lower cost), than the original lock gates. The yellow rectangle over the middle lock is the area that has been filled in, and the red dashed line is the walking route I took to bypass a closed road, and get from the old position of the central lock to the large lock that connected the Thames with the King George V Dock, on the left of the photo. The three locks in the above photo became the only route into the Royal Docks complex after 1928. By that time, the lock gates at the western entrance to the Royal Victoria Dock had reached the end of their useful life, and the roller paths at the bottom of the gates were causing problems. There was also very little left of the original concrete base to the lock. It appears that dredging had gradually removed the concrete base over the 70 years that the lock had been in use. The lock was repaired and strengthened, although a decision was made to restrict the western entrance to the Royal Victoria Dock to barge traffic only, with the three entrances at Gallions Reach then becoming the only entrances for shipping. Standing in the lock and looking towards the Basin shows the much smaller width of the lock gate: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-53-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-53-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21211" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-53-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-53-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> On the left of the above photo is a small building which I think houses the switch gear to control the lock gates. A sign on this building shows one of the rules to prevent rabies infection: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-54-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-54-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21212" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-54-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-54-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Although the original lock gates have been removed, some of the machinery that was used to control them can still be seen, embedded in the side walls, and below this (although difficult to see) are numbers indicating the depth of water, carved in the stone of the side wall: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-55.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-55.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21213"/></a></figure> Looking out to the Thames from the lock – just imagine how many ships have arrived to, and departed from the Royal Albert Dock through this entrance: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-56-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-56-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21214" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-56-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-56-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Buildings, and bollards for ship’s ropes still line the side of the lock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-57-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-57-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21215" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-57-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-57-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> On both sides: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-58-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-58-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21216" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-58-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-58-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> View across the lock showing the proximity of the new housing developments: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-59-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-59-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21217" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-59-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-59-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> At the end of that part of the lock where the width has been narrowed, looking up towards the Basin, along the original width of the lock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-61-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-61-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21219" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-61-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-61-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The Gallions entrance lock to the Albert Dock was upgraded in the early 1950s. The floor of the lock was found to be curved, and whilst this was acceptable for Victorian shipping with curved hulls, shipping by the 1950s had almost flat bottoms to maximise cargo space. The lock was also chain operated, and the system was 70 years old, and reaching the end of its useable life. The problem with upgrading the lock was that it needed to be empty of water, and a wall of some type was needed towards the Thames and towards the Royal Albert Dock, as if water flooded in from the dock it could cause an incredible amount of expensive damage to the ships in the dock, if the water level suddenly reduced. The first method used was by building a dam of granite blocks across the end of the lock. When the dam was tested, there was horizontal movement within the layers of blocks, and a scour hole of some 20 feet deep had formed in the chalk below the lock. The dam of granite blocks was replaced by a dam of a double layer of sheet piling with 70 foot long piles driven 15 feet into the chalk below the lock. The area around the lock also had to be de-watered to reduce the pressure pushing on the lock walls from the land surrounding the lock. This was done by installing 34 deep wells around the lock of 24 inches diameter, with a 12 horse power submersible pump in each that worked to reduce the level of ground water around the lock, and hence the pressure on the lock walls. The work to reshape the bottom of the lock, and to make repairs were completed by 1956 when the lock reopened. Standing by the side of the lock it looks like a stable volume of water within concrete walls, however the details in the paragraphs above show the complexity of the structure, the huge forces that water at either ends of the lock, and within the surrounding ground, exerted on the lock. They are remarkable examples of complex civil engineering. Nine years ago, I took the following photo of the entrance to the lock from the river, when the new apartment buildings next to the lock were being built: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-103.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="624" height="414" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-103.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21272" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-103.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-103-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 624px) 100vw, 624px" /></a></figure> If you have walked the Capital Ring, then the route I am taking across the lock entrances to the Royal Docks is probably familiar: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-60-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-60-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21218" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-60-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-60-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Once across the lock, and I enter a very different landscape. Where all of my walk around the Royal Albert Dock so far, has been through developed land, or open space waiting to be developed, the space between the old dock entrances is an area devoid of people, a number of apparently derelict buildings, and empty space: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-62-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-62-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21220" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-62-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-62-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> They really do not want you to stray off the road, probably sensible as the docks are of deep water: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-63-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-63-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21221" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-63-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-63-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The road has a name – Gallions Road, and it runs from the first lock that I crossed, up to Woolwich Manor Way, although do not expect to see any people, cars or lorries on this road: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-64.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-64.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21222"/></a></figure> The road is called Gallions Road and the title of the blog post is “The Gallions Reach Entrances to the Royal Docks”, so where does Gallions come from? If you want to locate a place, then it needs a name, and this is no different with the River Thames. So much once went on along the river, that names were useful to refer to each stretch, and Gallions Reach was the name given to the part of the Thames roughly from Woolwich to Barking Creek. The Gallions name comes from the Galyons family, who owned land along this part of the river in the 14th century. With the way we use the river today, names such as Gallions Reach are not often heard, although the original Galyons is in use for the hotel in the previous post and the Gallions Reach Shopping Park is in nearby Beckton. The name was used very many times to describe events on the river in previous centuries, and I have seen both Gallions, Gallion’s and Galleons used as spellings. Many of the uses describe some very dramatic events, such as in May 1816 when there was a armed fight on the Thames. A boat carrying dollars to India was moored on the river at Greenwich. Due to the value of the cargo, armed guards were on board. A boat appears with two men onboard and comes up against the boat carrying the dollars. As there are only two people on board there is not much concern. As the boat comes alongside, 20 armed “pirates” emerge from under a tarpaulin and swarm onto the cargo boat, threatening to kill the crew. A shooting fight breaks out as the crew fight back with blunderbusses. The pirates manages to grab boxes of dollars (to the value of £7,000 in 1816), and they then flee on their boat. The report continues: “It would seem from the speedy approach of day-light and the slackness of the tide immediately after the robbery was committed, the villains were afraid to venture on shore with their stolen property, and had therefore deemed it expedient to sink the whole, or part of the chests, as they supposed within the low water mark, in Gallions Reach; for about seven o-clock, at low water, three of the chests were observed uncovered on the shore, where they had been just left by the tide.” In some respects, in past centuries, the Thames was a city in its own right, there were so many people working and travelling on the river and there were newsworthy events on the river almost every day. The report on the theft of the dollars (they were in chests, so I am assuming some form of silver dollar) concludes by saying that of the £7,000 stolen, only £3,000 had been recovered, so perhaps there are some early 19th century dollars still to be found in the muds of the Thames at Gallions Reach. Back to the 21st century, and I am continuing along Gallions Road, with the approach lights to London City Airport to my right. The proximity of the land between the dock entrances and the runway probably limits what can be built here as any high rise buildings would extend too far into the approach path: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-65-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1688" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-65-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21223" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-65-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-65-300x198.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> And here the road is closed. No mention of why, but I cannot get any further: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-66-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-66-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21224" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-66-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-66-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> However there is another route, and just to the left of the above photo is this footpath which heads up towards the river (the footpath is marked by the red dashed line in the Britain from Above photo earlier in the post): <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-67-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-67-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21225" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-67-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-67-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> In the above photo there is a car on the left. There was a large dog in the rear barking at me as I walked past, with a security man sitting in the front seat. What they were guarding is shown in the following photo – some derelict land and a large shed. The lower lock into the Basin at the end of the Royal Albert Dock once ran across the land in the foreground of the photo below (the orange rectangle in the Britain from Above photo earlier in the post): <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-68.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-68.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21226"/></a></figure> Nine years ago, I took the following photo of the block up entrance to the lower lock from the river: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-102.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="624" height="414" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-102.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21271" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-102.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-102-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 624px) 100vw, 624px" /></a></figure> At the end of the first stretch of footpath, it does a ninety degree bend and ruins alongside the Thames on the left, with thick bushes on the right hand side. It was a sunny, warm day, and what was remarkable about this footpath were the huge number of butterflies in the bushes, and as I walked along the footpath, they would rise from the bushes then fly back in. I have never seen so very many in one place. <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-69.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-69.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21227"/></a></figure> Looking back along the footpath, with the Thames just visible on the right: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-70-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-70-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21228" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-70-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-70-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> And at the end of the stretch that runs parallel with the Thames, there is another ninety degree bend, again with thick bushes and butterflies on the right, and some derelict land on the left: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-71-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-71-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21229" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-71-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-71-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> At the end of which, there are steps: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-72-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-72-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21230" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-72-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-72-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> And over the steps, a footpath which leads down to the lock that connects the King George V Dock to the River Thames: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-73-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-73-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21231" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-73-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-73-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> At the end of the footpath, I reach the walkway over one of the lock gates: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-74.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-74.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21232"/></a></figure> This lock is massive, and I believe is still of the same dimensions as when the King George V Dock was built, and opened in 1921. The following photo is looking towards the King George V Dock from the middle of the lock gates closest to the Thames. There are two other sets of lock gates, and the bridge in the distance carries the Woolwich Manor Way over the lock, where it joins the main dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-75-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-75-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21233" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-75-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-75-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The lock is still in use, providing access for ships to and from the Royal Dock complex, and the bridge in the distance, carrying Woolwich Manor Way over the lock is a Bascule Bridge and consists of two cantilevered steel box girder leaves which taper towards and meet at the middle. The bridge opens much as Tower Bridge does, with the two sections rising from the middle, and can swing by roughly 90 degrees, therefore opening up almost vertically. The current bridge dates from 1990, replacing an earlier bridge, which also opened to allow ships to move between dock and lock. Looking out to the Thames from the middle of the lock gate (standing in the middle of the relatively narrow lock gate, you get the feeling that you are suspended above two huge, dynamic stretches of water): <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-76-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-76-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21234" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-76-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-76-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The King George V Dock was the last major dock to be built in London, and, as with the other two docks that make up the Royal Docks was on a massive scale. The lock entrance between the dock and the Thames was the largest entrance on any London Dock. I have a one of the book’s issued to mark the opening of the dock on the 8th of July 1921, and the book describes the lock as follows: “Ships will enter from the river through an entrance lock 800 feet long by 100 feet wide with a depth of water on the sill of 45 feet below Trinity high water, equivalent to 41 feet 8 inches at high water of ordinary neap tides. Its length is divided into two compartments of 550 feet and 250 feet by three pairs of steel lock gates, each leaf of which weighs 309 tons, operated by direct acting hydraulic rams. By the use of a floating caisson, for which provision has been made at the inner end, the effective length of the lock can be increased to 910 feet. The lock walls have been constructed of eight to one mass concrete with a four to one face, and are founded in chalk, 65 feet below coping level, the thickness of the wall at the bottom being 21 feet. The floor, also of concrete, is 11 feet 9 inches thick in the middle. Two entrance jetties project a distance of 480 feet into the river, and form a bellmouth 675 feet wide across the outer extremity.” The details of the thickness of the lock walls and base give some idea of some of the pressures that the lock had to withstand – water pressure, added to when large ships passed through the lock, and pressure from within the land surrounding the dock, acting on the inside of the lock walls. The lock seems to be in the same configuration today, with three pairs of lock gates, with a shorter section between the two gates nearest the river, and a longer section between the two gates nearest to the dock. With the lock being full of water, it is difficult to see the massive scale of the structure. The book issued at the opening of the dock includes a number of photos which show the lock under construction, the first shows the lock being built, empty of water: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-94-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1719" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-94-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21251" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-94-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-94-300x201.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The second photo shows “one of the three pairs of lock gates”, and as described in the text, each side of the lock gates weighs 309 tons: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-95.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-95.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21252"/></a></figure> To put the scale of the above photo of the lock gates into context, look at the very bottom centre of the photo, and you can just see two figures, I have enlarged just this small section in the photo below: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-96.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="652" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-96-1024x652.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21253" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-96-1024x652.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-96-300x191.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-96-768x489.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-96-624x397.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-96.jpg 1445w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> In the above photo you can also see the roller and the roller path at the outer edge of one of the lock gates. This roller supported the gate as it was opened or closed. Looking back over the walkway over the outer lock gate: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-77-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-77-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21235" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-77-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-77-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The three lock gates in the lock to the King George V Dock are still fully operational, and part of the opening and closing mechanism can be seen coming from the side of the quay, where the rest of the mechanism is located: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-78.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-78.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21236"/></a></figure> A final look out to Gallions Reach, the part of the Thames where the three locks at the eastern end of the Royal Albert and King George V provided access to and from the Royal Docks: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-79-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-79-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21237" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-79-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-79-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Again, imagine all the ships, cargo and people who have passed through this lock. One example is the Blue Star Line “Almeda” shown in the following photo in the entrance lock to the King George V Dock on the completion of her maiden voyage with passengers from Argentina on the 6th of April, 1927: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-101.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-101.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21267"/></a></figure> The area between the upper lock to the Royal Albert Basin and the lower lock to the King George V is a really interesting area. Empty and derelict, the only person I saw was the security man with his dog sitting in the car. On leaving the lock into the King George V dock, the area changes dramatically, and we enter streets lined by housing that has been built over the last couple of decades: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-80.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-80.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21238"/></a></figure> I walked through this new estate, and onto Woolwich Manor Way, and where the name changes to Albert Road at the junction with Woodman Street, on the corner was a large, closed pub, now converted into residential: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-81.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-81.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21239"/></a></figure> This was the Roundhouse. The pub does not appear in the 1895 OS map, but there was a large corner pub on a street corner just to the north. This pub was demolished when the King George V dock was built, and I wonder if the Roundhouse was built after this nearby pub was demolished. The Roundhouse closed in 2003, and then converted to residential. Directly opposite the pub is Barge House Road: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-82-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-82-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21240" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-82-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-82-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Barge House Road has pre-war housing on the western side of the street. There is a plaque up on the wall of the house facing onto Albert Road, but the date on the plaque has been worn a bit too much to be read. In the 1895 OS map, the street is shown (but without a name), and there is no housing on either side of the street, so I suspect it was built as part of the development of the area when the King George V dock was built. There was though a pub (called the Barge House) at the southern end of the street, and a small dock into the river. The dock is listed in the PLA 1980s listing of “Steps, Stairs and Landing Places on the Tidal Thames”, as the “Old Barge House Drawdock”. A drawdock was a place where boats could be drawn out of the river for loading / unloading, for maintenance etc. The dock is still partly there, and I will visit in a future post. The next street along is Woolwich Manor Way, a continuation of the street that runs over the lifting bridge over the lock into King George V Dock, with houses on the eastern side of the street and the Royal Victoria Gardens opposite (again, the date on the plaque on the end house is too worn to see the date of construction): <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-83-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-83-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21241" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-83-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-83-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> I walked from Albert Road up to Woodman Street as there was a pub I wanted to see, all that is left of the Royal Oak in a remarkable example of where the façade of the pub has been retained, and a very different building completed around and above: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-84.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-84.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21242"/></a></figure> Close up showing the lovely green tiling of the old Royal Oak and a “Truman’s Beers, Eagle Brand” tiled sign: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-85-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-85-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21243" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-85-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-85-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The Royal Oak was in business by the early 1870s, and was a typical east London pub, however bombing during the Second World War resulted in the loss of the upper floors. Remarkably, the Royal Oak continued to trade using just the remaining ground floor. The pub finally closed around 2010 / 2011, was purchased for redevelopment as apartments, with planning permission that new apartments could be built, but the lower floor had to be retained, and possibly reopen as a pub. Whilst the new apartments have been completed and appear occupied, what remains of the Royal Oak looks to be gradually deteriorating. I have no idea if anything remains of the interior of the orginal pub, or whether it is just the outer facade that has been retained. There appears to be no progress in converting / restoring or reopening the ground floor as a pub, or as any other business. A real shame: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-86-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-86-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21244"/></a></figure> When writing the blog, I really do try and get all my facts right, and I am very grateful to readers who point out any errors (thankfully very few). The Internet can be an excellent source of factual information, and it can also propagate errors, and I am very conscious of this when writing a post, as I do not want to include errors that others may therefore take as fact. When researching the Royal Oak, I found a number of websites that associate the Royal Oak in Woodman Street, North Woolwich with the naming of Arsenal Football Club. Arsenal was originally named Dial Square, after one of the workshops at the Woolwich factory. After a win in December 1886, the club met in the Royal Oak, and decided to change name to  Royal Arsenal, a name which lasted until 1893 when the name changed to Woolwich Arsenal. A number of websites claim the Royal Oak was the one I have photographed, for example one site stating the Royal Oak in north Woolwich, and another the Royal Oak at 83 Woodman St, London, E16 2LN, but also mentioning the Woolwich Arsenal Station which is south of the river. The official history of Arsenal, on the club’s website also refers to the Royal Oak, but next to Woolwich Arsenal Station, which is the correct location of the Royal Oak in question. Probably an issue with two pubs called the Royal Oak, but one south of the river next to Woolwich Arsenal, and the other north of the river in North Woolwich. The King George V dock is very close, but nothing can be seen of the dock due to buildings and high walls, however there is an occasional a glimpse that the dock is there down some of the side street off Woodman Street, where, for example, the top of Light Vessel 93, moored in the King George V dock can be seen: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-87.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-87.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21245"/></a></figure> I will cover the light vessel in a future post. At the end of Woodman Street is Pier Parade, where North Woolwich library can be found: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-88.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-88.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21246"/></a></figure> North Woolwich Police Station, which opened in 1904 on the corner of Albert Road and Pier Road: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-89-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-89-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21247" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-89-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-89-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The building still appears to be in use as a Police Station, but the “front counter” was closed in 2013. There is a very detailed spreadsheet available on the Metropolitan Police website that details all the station closures between 2010 and 2023, listing the 126 closures during this period, and whether it was the just the front counter, or the whole police station. For those fully closed, the spreadsheet also lists the purchaser of the site and the price paid. <a href="https://www.met.police.uk/SysSiteAssets/foi-media/metropolitan-police/disclosure_2023/december_2023/police-station-closures-january2010-november2023-data-q2.xlsx">The spreadsheet can be found here.</a> Opposite the police station is the Royal Standard, seems to be open as a pub, but also as a resturant: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-90-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-90-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21248" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-90-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-90-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Diagonally opposite to the pub is the following terrace of buildings of mixed age and style, but mainly pre-war, on Pier Road, the street that leads to the Woolwich ferry: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-91.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-91.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21249"/></a></figure> A bit further along Albert Road, on the corner with Fernhill Street is a rare sight in east London, a relatively modern pub, the Henley Arms: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-92-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-92-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21250" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-92-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-92-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The current Henley Arms was opened in 1966, replacing an 1860s pub with the same name that stood closer to the corner of Albert Road than the current pub. The Henley Arms is a survivor from a time when there were so many pubs in the area. I have walked a relatively short distance along Albert Road. Between the Roundhouse and the Henley Arms is 900 metres, and the 1956 edition of the OS map shows nine pubs, so one every one hundred metres. This does not include pubs such as the Royal Oak or the Barge House which were between Albert Road and the docks, and the river. The majority were large corner pubs, and all would have been busy. The closure of the Royal Docks started their decline, and in the following decades there was the typical story of closure and redevelopment as residential. That is another part of the area around the Royal Docks, North Woolwich and Silvertown explored. The area where the three locks were, between the docks and the Thames at Gallions Reach is a very unique area, and I hope that when it is developed, as it inevitably will, the locks, their scale, construction and history is retained and highlighted, as the place where very many thousands of ships and people, and millions of tons of cargo entered and left London’s largest dock complex. <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/">alondoninheritance.com</a> <div class="sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled"><div class="robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing"><h3 class="sd-title">Share this:</h3><div class="sd-content"><ul><li class="share-twitter"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-url="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/the-gallions-reach-entrances-to-the-royal-docks/" data-text="The Gallions Reach Entrances to the Royal Docks" data-via="VanishedLondon" >Tweet</a></li><li class="share-facebook"><div class="fb-share-button" data-href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/the-gallions-reach-entrances-to-the-royal-docks/" data-layout="button_count"></div></li><li><a href="#" class="sharing-anchor sd-button share-more">More</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul><div class="sharing-hidden"><div class="inner" style="display: none;width:150px;"><ul style="background-image:none;"><li class="share-bluesky"><a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" data-shared="sharing-bluesky-21256" class="share-bluesky sd-button" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/the-gallions-reach-entrances-to-the-royal-docks/?share=bluesky" target="_blank" title="Click to share on Bluesky" >Bluesky</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div> </div> <footer class="entry-meta"> This entry was posted in <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/london-infrastructure/" rel="category tag">London Infrastructure</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/the-thames/" rel="category tag">The Thames</a> and tagged <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/gallions-reach/" rel="tag">Gallions Reach</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/royal-albert-dock/" rel="tag">Royal Albert Dock</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/royal-docks/" rel="tag">Royal Docks</a> on <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/the-gallions-reach-entrances-to-the-royal-docks/" title="7:30 am" rel="bookmark"><time class="entry-date" datetime="2024-11-17T07:30:00+00:00">November 17, 2024</time></a> by <a class="url fn n" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/author/admin/" title="View all posts by admin" rel="author">admin</a>. </footer> </article> <article id="post-21199" class="post-21199 post type-post status-publish format-standard hentry category-london-infrastructure category-the-thames tag-london-docks tag-royal-albert-dock tag-royal-docks"> <header class="entry-header"> <h1 class="entry-title"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-albert-dock-and-london-city-airport/" rel="bookmark">Royal Albert Dock and London City Airport</a> </h1> <div class="comments-link"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-albert-dock-and-london-city-airport/#comments">19 Replies</a> </div> </header> <div class="entry-content"> After last Sunday’s diversion, I am back in the Royal Docks, this time exploring the second of the three individual docks that make up the overall “Royals” dock complex – the Royal Albert Dock. The following map shows the Royal Albert Dock (the top of the two docks), and the red dotted line shows the walk I am covering in today’s post, with some of the key buildings circled. I am starting at the red oval to the left of the map. There is so much to find around this part of east London, that it will take a couple of posts to cover (<a href="https://www.openstreetmap.org/copyright">© OpenStreetMap contributors)</a>. <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-46.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="543" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-46-1024x543.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21194" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-46-1024x543.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-46-300x159.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-46-768x407.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-46-624x331.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-46.jpg 1519w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> I also have an error to own up to. In my original post on the history of the Royal docks, I included a number of photos that my father had taken, describing them all as being of the Royal Victoria Dock. From some comments and emails received (thanks for all the comments, they are all read and appreciated), from people who had worked in, and known the area well, the photo showing ships lining the sides of a dock was in fact the Royal Albert Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-45-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1637" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-45-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21193"/></a></figure> Whilst all the other photos had identifiable features, and were of the Royal Victoria Dock, my father must have started his walk around the Royal Victoria Dock at the eastern end of the dock, where it joined the Royal Albert, and where there was a good view along the Royal Albert, so the above photo is of the Royal Albert Dock, and is where I am walking in today’s post. I started the walk at the appropriately named Royal Albert Station on the Docklands Light Railway: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-1.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-1.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21149"/></a></figure> One of the few surviving buildings from when the docks were operational is located right next to the DLR station, this is the Compressor House (light blue oval in the map): <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-2-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-2-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21150" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-2-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The Compressor House dates from 1914 and was originally a warehouse providing cold storage for cargo shipped via the Royal Docks: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-3-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1683" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-3-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21151" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-3-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-3-300x197.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The Compressor House featured in a <a href="https://www.london.gov.uk/md3178-compressor-house-disposal?ac-213653=213638">document released by the Mayor of London back in May 2024</a>. The document covers the “leasehold disposal of Compressor House, for 10 years, to Really Local Group to deliver a project that addresses priorities of good growth, levelling up and Royal Docks placemaking; and provides best value for the GLA Land and Property Limited commercial asset.” Apparently the building retains many original internal features such as hoists, rails and winching machinery. Plans for the building include a café, rooms for hire, including for exhibitions and performances, and a learning / meeting room. I love the terms used in documents talking about the benefits of a project, as the Mayor of London document talks about linking the surrounding communities with the Royal Docks, through “in this case through the lens of digital inclusion”. I have no idea what this means. It would be really good to make publicly accessible use of the building – providing the original features are retained, along with the story of how the building was once part of the Royal Docks success. Arms of the Port of London Authority and the date of 1914 displayed above the door. <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-4-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1669" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-4-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21152" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-4-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-4-300x196.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> From the Royal Albert DLR station, and the Compressor House, it was a very short walk to the side of the Royal Albert Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-5.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-5.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21153"/></a></figure> There is a wide walkway along the northern edge of the dock, with some recent developments along the side, but what impresses is the enormous expanse of water. The above view is looking east, and the view below is looking to the west, where the bridge can be seen that marks the point where the Royal Albert meets the Royal Victoria Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-6-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-6-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21154" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-6-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-6-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Whilst there has been less development along this side of the Royal Albert Dock, along the south of the dock, where there is a strip of land between the Royal Albert and King George V dock, there is the result of one of the first major infrastructure projects around the Royal Docks, that was, and continues to be an issue for many local residents, and which made the Royal Docks a significant transport hub for London. This is London City Airport, where from the north side of the dock, you can watch planes landing and taking off, where there were once warehouses: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-7-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-7-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21155" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-7-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-7-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> View across to the terminal buildings at London City Airport: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-14-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-14-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21162" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-14-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-14-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The idea for an airport in the docklands came from the London Docklands Development Corporation in the early 1980s. The concept was for an airport that would service the business centres of the City of London, and the proposed development centered on Canary Wharf in the Isle of Dogs. The airport would offer swift access from these centres of business, with minimal waiting time at the airport. Almost a “turn up and fly” approach, rather than the longer travel out to airports such as Heathrow and Gatwick, with the lengthier times for check-in, security etc. as well as often delayed take-offs and landings. The airport was built by the civil engineering and construction company, Mowlem, between 1986 and 1987. Incidentally, one of the best books I have on the construction and engineering of the London Docks is “London Docks 1800 – 1980 by Ivan Greeves (1980)”. (I will give a long list of the books and sources I have used in the final post on the Royal Docks). Ivan Greeves was a fellow of the Institution of Civil Engineers and a Director of John Mowlem, and Mowlem had been involved with many of the civil engineering projects around the London Docks. Greeves’ book is a wonderful detailed civil engineering history of the London Docks. There were many publications by both the LDDC and other publishers, as the development of the docklands got underway. I collected as many as I could, and one was the magazine “Vistas”, published by the London Docklands Publishing Consortium, and in issue 2. Spring 1987, the first two airlines that would use London City Airport, which would open later in the year were featured: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-16.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-16.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21164"/></a></figure> The first two airlines were Brymon Airways and Eurocity Express, and an article in Vistas explains the airlines plans, and the type of service they intended to operate from the new docklands airport. There is also a photo showing London City Airport under construction, when it occupied just the land between the Royal Albert and George V docks: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-17.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-17.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21165"/></a></figure> The article continues, with both airlines explaining the benefits of flying from London City Airport, with Brymon fully focused on the business traveler, and Eurocity Express also focused on the business traveler, but also expecting a share of leisure travelers: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-18.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-18.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21166"/></a></figure> It was a Brymon flight that had helped prove that planes could take off and land from short landing strips in the docklands, when in 1982 a Brymon Dash 7 aircraft landed at Heron Quays in Canary Wharf. Eurocity Express changed name to London City Airways in 1988 to more closely align the identity of the airline with London City Airport, but would suffer financial collapse two years later in 1990. In the late 1980s I worked for a company that was split between London and Amsterdam and did use London City Airport a number of times. It was a really fast airport to get through, whether arriving or departing, and the best bit was always coming into land, with the steep approach, and good views of the surrounding docklands. I did take my camera a number of times, but cannot find the negatives. Hopefully one day. Old and new industries / business around the Royal Docks – planes at London City Airport, with the Tate and Lyle factory in the background: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-15-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-15-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21163"/></a></figure> After opening, the airlines operating from London City Airport used propeller driven airplanes such as the Dash 7. These carried relatively few passengers when compared to larger jet aircraft, however they were more than capable of landing and taking of from a short runway. The airport served business centres close to the UK, such as Amsterdam and Paris, and in the following years the destinations served, as well as the number of passengers grew considerably (including New York for a short time). An extension to the airport opened in 1992. Access to the airport improved in 2005 when a DLR station was opened at the airport, and in 2008, additional aircraft parking space was opened on an extension to the airport built on piles over part of the King George V dock. Jet aircraft started to use the airport in the early 1990s, and today jet aircraft run the majority of services, with a small number of propeller driven aircraft still operating. In the first full year of operation, 133,000 passengers passed through London City Airport. In August of this year, the Government approved the expansion of the airport to increase capacity from 6.5 million to 9 million, with more weekend and early morning flights. Flight destinations and the target traveler have also moved on from the initial business market, and when I had a look in the terminal building there seemed to be just as many people, if not more, going away for leisure, including families, than business. I am writing this on a Friday evening, and I had a look at the first flight on Saturday morning which is a British Airways flight to Ibiza – definitely not one of the original target markets. There is not much going on along the north bank of the Royal Albert Dock, and whilst I was walking, on a summer’s weekday morning, there were very few people around., so in this quiet place, it is strange to hear the sound of a jet aircraft taking off, or the quitter sound of a landing, at regular intervals: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-25-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1687" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-25-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21173" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-25-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-25-300x198.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> There is a certain symetry between the airport and the old docks. The docks transported cargo all over the world and the airport is now flying people. The north bank of the dock is really quiet, as this view along the walkway demonstrates: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-8-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-8-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21156" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-8-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-8-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> And with it being such a peaceful environment, it is hard to imagine just how busy the Royal Albert Dock was, and what a sight it must have been, with so many ships coming and going, and vast amounts of cargo being shifted between warehouses, transit sheds, quayside, lighters and ships, as the following photo of the dock demonstrates: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-19-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="702" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-19-1024x702.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21167" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-19-1024x702.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-19-300x206.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-19-768x527.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-19-1536x1054.jpg 1536w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> The warehouses that ran alongside the length of the dock were not meant for long term storage, most were transit sheds as this was their main purpose, to temporarily hold cargo as it transited from ship to destination, or from source to ship. The following photo shows a typical transit shed at the Royal Albert Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-20-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1726" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-20-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21168" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-20-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-20-300x202.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> And an innovation across the Royal Docks was the use of the railway as a means of transport. The docks were threaded through with rail lines allowing the movement of goods within the docks, and out onto the wider mainline rail networks, as the following photo of a cold store, along with overhead conveyors between buildings, shows: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-21-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="528" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-21-1024x528.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21169" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-21-1024x528.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-21-300x155.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-21-768x396.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-21-1536x793.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-21-2048x1057.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-21-624x322.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> Continuing the walk along the Royal Albert Dock, and I have reached a series of office blocks: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-9-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-9-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21157" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-9-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-9-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> I have no idea who thinks of the slogans that often try to attract people or companies to new properties, “Regenerative Audacious Disruptive” and “Where Paradigms Shift” – totally meaningless – although I suppose that if a company moved their office to one of these blocks, with so few facilities or other businesses around, it would genuinely be “disruptive”: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-10-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1674" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-10-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21158" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-10-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-10-300x196.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Although they do have a good view along the dock, and across to the towers on the Isle of Dogs: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-11-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-11-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21159" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-11-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-11-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> All these office blocks appear to be unoccupied, and they are a testament to an over hyped scheme that was entirely dependent on foreign investment and foreign businesses. A headline in the Guardian on the 30th of May, 2013 read “Chinese to develop slice of British imperial past: Royal Albert Dock due to be Asian business park by 2023: Transformation of London site could bring 20,000 jobs”. The article below the above headline reported that the Chinese developer Advanced Business Park had signed a £1 billion agreement with London Mayor Boris Johnson to develop a 35 acre site alongside the Royal Albert Dock with offices and shops, with the aim of attracting Asian businesses to set-up their European head quarters at the site, as well as British companies who do business in Asia. At the signing of the agreement, Boris Johnson said that it would be “London’s third great business area” and that it “will restore jobs and growth to the Royal Docks, an area . . . that has been in more or less continuous decline for 50 or 60 years”. The parts of the development that have been completed seem to have been mainly empty since completion, and the 20,000 jobs have not materialized. In 2022 newspaper headlines reported that the “Royal Albert Dock a ghost town as developer goes bankrupt”. This was ABP Investment Ltd, the Beijing based original property developer. In May, 2024 the Greater London Authority was looking for a new developer for the land alongside the northern edge of the Royal Albert Dock, as from the original 2013 agreement, only about 10% had been built, and this 10% was mainly empty office blocks. The central street through the existing office blocks is called Mandarin Street, reflecting the Chinese heritage of the original developer and investment: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-12-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-12-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21160"/></a></figure> Leaving Mandarin Street, and the empty office blocks behind, I continue walking on past the empty land that should by now, based on the 2013 agreement, have seen 20,000 people working here: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-13.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-13.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21161"/></a></figure> Look left from my position when taking the above photo and there are some really good, original buildings from the time of the working docks, and this is the Dock Manager’s Offices (green oval in the map at the top of the post): <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-22.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-22.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21170"/></a></figure> Grade II listed and built in 1883 by Vigers and Wagstaffe. The name of the building should explain what went on here – it was from where the Royal Docks were managed, where the dock records were kept and administered. A second building, alongside the Dock Managers Office is the Central Buffet, also by Vigers and Wagstaffe, dating from 1883, and is also Grade II listed. <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-23-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1683" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-23-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21171" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-23-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-23-300x197.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The Central Buffest appears to have been a café / restaurant for workers and for passengers traveling via the Royal Docks. It also appears to have been used as a pub, as this report from the 6th of December 1897 explains; “BETTING AT THE ROYAL ALBERT DOCKS – At Stratford Police court on Saturday, Thomas Clarey, a lighterman, of 49, freemasons-road, Custom-house, was summoned on six information’s for using the Central Buffet, a public-house in the Royal Albert Docks, for the purpose of betting with other persons, and Henry James Morgan, the secretary of the London and India Docks Joint Committee, the holder of the licence of the Central Buffest, was summoned for permitting the place to be used for the purposes of betting.” A “barmaid” was also called to give evidence, so the Central Buffet was certainly also working as a pub. The Dock Managers Office and the Central Buffet are remarkable buildings, and from their appearance they would be more expected in the suburbs, or as a country house, rather than in the industrial east London docks. Winged figure with trumpet on top of the Central Buffet: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-24.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="713" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-24-1024x713.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21172" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-24-1024x713.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-24-300x209.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-24-768x535.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-24-1536x1070.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-24-2048x1426.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-24-624x435.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> A look along the Royal Albert Dock, and there is still much of the dock behind me, and in the distance, out of sight in the photo below, is the Royal Victoria Dock. You really need to walk alongside the Royal Docks to fully appreciate the sheer scale of these manmade temples to London’s trade: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-26.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-26.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21174"/></a></figure> Vessels berthed at the Royal Albert Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-50.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-50.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21198"/></a></figure> More shipping in the Royal Albert Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-49-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="728" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-49-1024x728.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21197" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-49-1024x728.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-49-300x213.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-49-768x546.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-49-1536x1092.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-49-2048x1456.jpg 2048w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> New Quays added to the Royal Albert Dock in the 1930s: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-48-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="730" height="1024" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-48-730x1024.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21196" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-48-730x1024.jpg 730w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-48-214x300.jpg 214w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-48-scaled.jpg 1826w" sizes="(max-width: 730px) 100vw, 730px" /></a></figure> The following photo shows how cargo could be loaded to and from lighters as well as the quayside. The Royal Albert Dock was known as a dock where goods of all sorts could fine the appropriate facilities for unloading, storage and distribution: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-47-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="740" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-47-1024x740.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21195" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-47-1024x740.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-47-300x217.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-47-768x555.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-47-1536x1109.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-47-2048x1479.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-47-624x451.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> All very different today as I walk along a mainly silent quayside, with just the occasional take off or landing on the other side of the water to disturb the peace. London City Airport is on the south side of the Royal Albert Dock, however there was a second, short term airstrip on the north side of the dock. In 2007, the Red Bull air racing event took place in London, and the long open space alongside the north of the dock proved ideal for the pits area and runway for the event. If I remember correctly, the Red Bull race was also held in docklands in the following year, 2008, and these events had quite an impact on the London City Airport, as flights from the airport had to be suspended whilst Red Bull racing was underway. Peer over a fence as you walk along the north side of the Royal Albert Dock, and parts of the overgrown runway can still be seen: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-27-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1668" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-27-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21175" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-27-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-27-300x196.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The RB in the runway designation of RB 28 stands for Red Bull. There is a photo of the runway in as new condition, and when in use for Red Bull Racing on the <a href="https://www.forgottenairfields.com/airfield-london-redbull-airstrip-1429.html">Abandoned Forgotten & Little Known Airfields in Europe website, which can be found by clicking here</a>. Further along the Royal Albert Dock, there are some recent buildings which have brought activity to the area, although as I was there during August, they were again very quiet. These are educational establishments, and first is the London Design and Engineering UTC (University Technical College): <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-29.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-29.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21177"/></a></figure> A UTC is a government funded school that offers 14 to 19 year olds a more focused technical and scientific educational, taught in a different way to a normal school. The next building is the University of East London: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-28-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-28-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21176" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-28-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-28-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The area around these buildings should be much busier in school term time, but during August they just added to the sense that the northern section of the Royal Albert Dock needs a considered development plan to bring in more life, and benefits for the local community just outside of the dock, not just yet another area flooded with identikit apartment blocks. <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-30-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-30-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21178" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-30-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-30-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Next to the university buildings there is the student accommodation, which includes several rather different, round blocks: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-31-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1677" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-31-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21179" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-31-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-31-300x196.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> They are described as “having a nautical theme in homage to the shipping heritage of the area”: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-32-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1630" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-32-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21180" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-32-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-32-300x191.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> They certainly have a good view, looking out on the dock, and with views of planes arriving and departing at the airport on the opposite side of the dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-33-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-33-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21181" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-33-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-33-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The Royal Albert Dock was opened on the 24th of June, 1880, and cost £2,100,000 to construct – a considerable sum of money at the time. <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/the-thames/the-royal-docks-victoria-albert-and-george-v/">I described the opening ceremony in my first post on the Royal Docks, here</a>. Although built not that long after the Royal Victoria Dock, the Royal Albert was needed to accommodate ships of larger size and deeper draught than the earlier Victoria Dock, as well as providing a significant amount of additional space for ships to dock, and the associated infrastructure for moving and storing cargo. The Royal Albert Dock was 27 feet in depth (just 1.5 feet deeper than the Royal Victoria, but suffcient for the expected larger ships). The entrance from the Thames to the Royal Albert Dock was 550 feet in length and 80 feet wide. The water area that the Royal Albert Dock occupied was 73 acres, compared to 66 acres for the Royal Victoria. The Royal Albert Dock was the first London Dock to be lighted by electricity, and this helped the dock to be in use by both night as well as day. Between the main dock area of the Royal Albert, and the locked entrance to the Thames was a basin. In the following photo, I am almost at the basin, and looking along the full length of the dock. A little way along the dock edge on the left, you can just see the entrance to the King George V Dock, which is to the south of the Royal Albert <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-34-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-34-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21182" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-34-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-34-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Looking in the other direction at the basin, the area of water between the dock and the Thames: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-35.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-35.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21183"/></a></figure> The following map extract shows the eastern end of the Royal Albert Dock (upper length of water) with the basin connecting the dock to two entrances to the river: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-51.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="691" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-51-1024x691.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21205" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-51-1024x691.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-51-300x202.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-51-768x518.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-51-1536x1036.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-51-2048x1381.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-51-624x421.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> Today, the area to the north of the basin has been redeveloped, and there are blocks of new apartment buildings to be seen. The area from the upper entrance to the river and down to the large entrance to the King George V dock is undeveloped, and is where we can see some of the old dock infrastructure, and get an impression of the size of the dock entrances. Changes within the basin have added some routes across, including lifting bridges: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-36-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-36-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21184" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-36-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-36-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> From this point, I took a very short detour to find another of the building that remain from when the docks were operational, the Galyons Royal Docks (purple oval in the map at the start of the post): <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-37-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-37-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21185" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-37-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-37-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Originally the Gallions Hotel, it is Grade II* listed, and as with the Dock Managers Office and the Central Buffet, it was by George Vigers and T R Wagstaffe  and dates from the same period as it was built between 1881 and 1883: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-38-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-38-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21186" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-38-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-38-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The Civil & Military Gazette on November the 8th, 1893 carried an account of a visit to the Royal Docks, which included this description of the Gallions Hotel: “At the Gallions Hotel you meet old salts and ships captains of all types; some, of the old-fashioned style, look as if they have just foregathered with their friends, Cap’en Cuttle and Bunsby, and shake their grizzled heads dolefully (as is the custom of grizzled heads all over the world) over the present degenerate age; they drink rum and hot water, with an enticing piece of lemon floating on the top out of fat glasses with a leg, called very appropriately ‘rummers’ and stir up the seductive beverage thoughtfully with a fat glass spoon. Of a different stamp, and yet of the true British sailor breed are the smart young captains and mates who are standing each other whiskies and sodas (plenty of whisky and very little soda). The genial landlady knows them all, and has a greeting for each; they come and go at intervals, and in the meantime, have been round the world. It is a small journey now-a-days, this circumnavigation of the globe, and is thought nothing of at the Gallions. Many and curious are the tokens of affection and esteem brought home by these sailor men to their kind hostess; her parlour walls are simply covered with curios of every conceivable kind.” The interior of the Gallion’s is interesting, and is perfectly described in the Historic England listing: “Notable interior with diagonal timber bracing of massive proportions to ground floor. Oak staircase with enriched balusters and newels. Main saloon contains huge timber bar and original fittings.” The exterior is equally interesting, with a “roughcast first floor with plaster frieze by Edward Roscoe Mullins”: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-39-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-39-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21187" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-39-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-39-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> According to the excellent book “Docklands – An illustrated historical survey of life and work in east London” (North East London Polytechnic – 1986), the Gallions Hotel was for the “use of liner passengers embarking at the adjacent jetty. A subway used to connect with the Royal Albert Dock Basin”. I have also read that the subway was more a covered walkway between hotel and boarding point for liners. Whilst the Gallions Hotel (or Galyons using today’s spelling) is still a pub / restaurant today, it is now serving a very different clientele. Not a liner passenger or “old salts and ships captains” in sight. There is another building nearby which is also still serving the same purpose. This is the Royal Docks Impounding Station (yellow oval in the map at the start of the post): <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-40-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-40-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21188" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-40-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-40-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The purpose of an impounding station is to maintain the water level in the enclosed area of the docks. The docks gradually loose water through evaporation, seepage through the walls of the dock, and through the lock gates, although this is less of a problem as the lock gates are infrequently opened these days. To replace lost water, the impounding station pumps water into the docks from the Thames, and on the day of my visit, possibly difficult to see in the following photo, the impounding station was active, and water was upwelling in the area in front of the four pipes which route the water into the basin. The water was very mud coloured compared to the rest of the dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-41-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-41-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21189" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-41-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-41-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The impounding station was built in 1912 and was originally equipped with three steam driven pumps. These were replaced by four electrically powered pumps in 1954.  There is a water intake in the Thames at Gallions Reach, and a 4m by 5.5m intake culvert connects to the impounding station, below which is a large wet well, where water from the intake is then pumped into the dock. To put the operation of the building into perspective, each of the four pipes leading from the building into the dock are 70 inches in diameter, and through these, each pump and pipe carries 7150 litres of Thames water a second into the dock, and as an Olympic swimming pool is the usual measure when water is concerned, when all four pumps are working they would fill one of these swimming pools in one and a half minutes. <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-42.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-42.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21190"/></a></figure> Whilst I have not seen inside the Royal Docks Impounding Station, a few years ago I did visit the impounding station at West India Dock, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/the-thames/west-india-dock-impounding-station/">which you can read about in this post</a>. Arms of the Port of London Authority and date of construction on the impounding station: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-43.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-43.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21191"/></a></figure> The rear of the impounding station, also showing the new apartment buildings that have been recently built around the west end of the Royal Albert Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-44-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-44-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21192" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-44-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Royal-Albert-Dock-44-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> By the end of the 19th century, the Royal Victoria and Royal Albert Docks were very busy places. Their colossal length could handle very many large ships at the same time. Cold stores, general warehouses and transit sheds were integrated with a rail network that ran within and around the docks, interconnecting the docks and with the wider national rail network. Ships were getting larger and faster, and refrigerated shipping brought new opportunities to bring cargo into the country, however the success of the docks was also seen as a threat to many traditional businesses within the UK, as the following extract also from the Civil & Military Gazette on November the 8th, 1893 explains: “The ships of this line (at any rate those employed in the frozen meat trade), go out with general cargoes round the Cape of Good Hope, and return around Cape Horn; they are away altogether about five months each trip. In addition to the mutton and lamb, a great trade is gradually springing up in butter and cheese, and many tons of these commodities are now imported into England. It seems a poor look out for the wretched British farmer, and something will have to be done for him before long, or the agriculturist in Britain will become as extinct as the dodo; he is undersold at all points, and cannot make a living from the soil.” As has always been the case, the ability to import large quantities of a product frequently causes a conflict with internal producers which often cannot compete. There is so very much to see around the Royal Docks, and in next week’s post, I will be walking through the more derelict part of the area, where the entrances between the Thames and the dock are located, walking across a large locked entrance, and then into North Woolwich and Silvertown. <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/">alondoninheritance.com</a> <div class="sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled"><div class="robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing"><h3 class="sd-title">Share this:</h3><div class="sd-content"><ul><li class="share-twitter"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-url="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-albert-dock-and-london-city-airport/" data-text="Royal Albert Dock and London City Airport" data-via="VanishedLondon" >Tweet</a></li><li class="share-facebook"><div class="fb-share-button" data-href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-albert-dock-and-london-city-airport/" data-layout="button_count"></div></li><li><a href="#" class="sharing-anchor sd-button share-more">More</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul><div class="sharing-hidden"><div class="inner" style="display: none;width:150px;"><ul style="background-image:none;"><li class="share-bluesky"><a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" data-shared="sharing-bluesky-21199" class="share-bluesky sd-button" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-albert-dock-and-london-city-airport/?share=bluesky" target="_blank" title="Click to share on Bluesky" >Bluesky</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div> </div> <footer class="entry-meta"> This entry was posted in <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/london-infrastructure/" rel="category tag">London Infrastructure</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/the-thames/" rel="category tag">The Thames</a> and tagged <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/london-docks/" rel="tag">London Docks</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/royal-albert-dock/" rel="tag">Royal Albert Dock</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/royal-docks/" rel="tag">Royal Docks</a> on <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-albert-dock-and-london-city-airport/" title="7:30 am" rel="bookmark"><time class="entry-date" datetime="2024-11-10T07:30:00+00:00">November 10, 2024</time></a> by <a class="url fn n" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/author/admin/" title="View all posts by admin" rel="author">admin</a>. </footer> </article> <article id="post-21134" class="post-21134 post type-post status-publish format-standard hentry category-london-buildings category-london-history tag-mermaid-theatre tag-puddle-dock"> <header class="entry-header"> <h1 class="entry-title"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-buildings/the-mermaid-theatre-puddle-dock/" rel="bookmark">The Mermaid Theatre – Puddle Dock</a> </h1> <div class="comments-link"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-buildings/the-mermaid-theatre-puddle-dock/#comments">27 Replies</a> </div> </header> <div class="entry-content"> If you have been on my Puddle Dock walk, you will recognise this location, the old Mermaid Theatre alongside Puddle Dock. Although I have written about Puddle Dock before (there is a link at the end of the post), I have not covered the Mermaid Theatre, so time to remedy that omission in today’s post. The Mermaid Theatre is the brick building in the centre of the following photo: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-1-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1920" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-1-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21118" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-1-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-1-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Upper Thames Street is the road in the foreground. This was constructed on land reclaimed from the Thames foreshore as part of the late 1970s / early 1980s redevelopment of the whole area in the photo. The street Puddle Dock, which occupies the site of the original Puddle Dock is the street to the left of the photo. Another view of the Mermaid Theatre. This is not the original theatre, it was part of the redevelopment of the area when the surrounding office blocks were built, along with Upper Thames Street: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-2.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-2.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21119"/></a></figure> The following photo shows the original Mermaid Theatre building, the smaller building in the centre of the photo, alongside the edge of the Thames: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-10.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-10.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21127"/></a></figure> In the above photo, all the land in front of the theatre would be reclaimed to allow the move of Upper Thames Street to a new dual carriageway. New office blocks were built around the theatre and Puddle Dock, which can be seen to the left of the theatre, was filled in and the street with the same name constructed. The story of the theatre, how it came to occupy this bomb damaged site, and its transformation to the place we see today, is the subject of today’s post. The Mermaid Theatre was the dream of Bernard Miles and his wife, Josephine Wilson. Bernard Miles was born in Uxbridge to a father who was a market gardener and mother who was a cook. He went to school in Uxbridge and then Pembroke College, Oxford, and after university he took a job as a teacher, but he would not stay for long in this profession. His first acting role was as the second messenger in a revival of Richard III, after which he joined a number of repertory companies taking on roles from a carpenter to an actor. He had London stage roles in the late 1930s and early 1940s, including touring with the Old Vic. He also had a number of film roles starting with the 1932 film, Channel Crossing, and the films that followed included In Which We Serve (1942) and Great Expectations (1946), and he continued to have film roles through to his final film in 1988, The Lady and the Highwayman. He also appeared on TV, with one of his best known roles as Long John Silver in a TV series and later TV film of Treasure Island. He would also play the role of Long John Silver when Treasure Island was put on at the Mermaid Theatre. He perhaps overplayed the role of a pirate when he “kidnapped” the Governor of the Bank of England on a short river journey on the Thames, when he “relived” the Governor of a cheque for £25 in support of the Mermaid, and then used the event to claim that the Mermaid Theatre was supported by the Bank of England. It was down to Bernard Miles enthusiasm for the Mermaid Theatre, his ability to fund raise, and his sheer hard work throughout the whole process, that took the Mermaid Theatre from idea through to a working theatre, opening in 1959. To explore the story of the Mermaid Theatre, I will use the Press Information document issued for the official opening of the theatre at 6p.m. on Thursday the 28th of May, 1959: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-16-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1551" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-16-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21133" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-16-scaled.jpg 1551w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-16-182x300.jpg 182w" sizes="(max-width: 1551px) 100vw, 1551px" /></a></figure> The press pack starts with the background to the Mermaid: “‘See the players well bestowed’, says Hamlet, and the City has obeyed his solemn injunction by helping to bring to fruition a dream born on Acacia Road, St. john’s Wood, nine years ago. In the dream Bernard Miles and his wife, Josephine Wilson saw one of the most exciting small theatres in Europe rising against the blitzed warehouses of the City’s riverside. They saw a new and vital centre of entertainment thriving in the great business hub of the Commonwealth. In that summer of 1951, they had built a small theatre in their back garden. Its stage and fittings had been planned by two brilliant young designers, Michael Stringer and Walter Hodges, and early in September the Mermaid Theatre opened with Kirsten Flagsted singing twenty-six performances of Purcell’s ‘Dido and Aeneas’. Her salary for the season was a bottle of stout a day. This first season was such a success that it was decided to have another one the following year. This time Bernard and Josephine Miles had no idea that before long they would be building a real bricks and mortar theatre in E.C.4. But during the second Mermaid season, a good friend of the Miles’ brought the Lord Mayor, Sir Leslie Boyce, to see the production of Macbeth. It was the Lord Mayor who suggested that the Mermaid be brought to the City for Coronation Year. So it came about that between May and August 1953, the Mermaid Company played 13 weeks on the Piazza of the historic Royal Exchange in the very heart of a City, theatre less for nearly 300 years. And 70,000 people paid to see the four productions. This solid support led the Miles’s to believe that there was a very real demand for drama in the City. From this point the ball began to roll towards Puddle Dock. It was argued that if they could persuade the City Corporation to lease them a bombed site for a token rent and then build the theatre by public subscription, they could set it fee from rent and so bring the price down to a real pubic service and habit forming level. And since the entire Box Office takings could then be spent on the productions, this freedom from rent would also act as a negative subsidy, giving vital artistic elbow room. In 1956, the Corporation generously granted a lease of the Puddle Dock site, so rich in theatrical associations. Then began the task of raising the £62,000 required to build and equip the theatre.” The Puddle Dock site provided by the City Corporation really was a bombed warehouse, as can be seen in the following photo with the warehouse that would become the Mermaid Theatre on the left, with Puddle Dock, with a moored barge, to the right of the warehouse: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-13-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="662" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-13-1024x662.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21130" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-13-1024x662.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-13-300x194.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-13-768x497.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-13-1536x994.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-13-2048x1325.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-13-624x404.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> Looking up what was Puddle Dock today, with the old Mermaid Theatre buildings on the right: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-3.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-3.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21120"/></a></figure> Following the provision of the warehouse site, the next step was to try and raise the money needed to build and equip the theatre. The press pack continues: “COLLECTING THE MONEY: The Mermaid has been financed entirely by public subscription. By donations from banks, shipping companies, insurance companies, stockbrokers, the City livery companies, ordinary men and women all over the United Kingdom, indeed all over the world – in America, Australia, New Zealand, Africa, Spain, Portugal, France, Canada, Bermuda, Norway and Sweden. The launching of the ‘buy-a-brick’ campaign in 1957 carried the Mermaid appeal across the world. Nearly 60,000 people have paid their half-crown for a brick in the venture. There have been many delightful instances of individual generosity, many heart-touching stories of a very real and practical interest in the living theatre. There is the old-age pensioner who write saying she would like to donate £5. Not having the ready cash, she asked to be allowed to subscribe on the ‘never-never’ – a down payment consisting of a savings book containing five shillings worth of 6d. savings stamps followed, and the installments are paid whenever she finds she has a bit to spare. There is the 10-year-old boy in Hampstead who sent two half-crowns – ‘the profit I made on the pantomime Aladdin which I staged in my bedroom at Christmas’. There is the man working next door to the theatre who every week for 2.5 years has clocked in to give his half-crown. There is the school-girl who sent her 10 shilling birthday money – ‘It was given to me to spend on whatever I wanted most, and most of all I want four bricks in your theatre.” There is the New Zealander who sent money for four ‘bricks’ on behalf of his ancestors who lived and worked in the City during the 18th and 19th centuries. In addition to cash, covenants etc., the Mermaid has received many gifts of materials. Window frames, lavatory and wash basins, bricks, radiators, timber, electrical equipment, bars, tiles, piping, furniture, carpet. And the neighboring firms have helped by lending office accommodation and storage space; by donations of paper for our printing; by the free use of office machinery and facilities.” A bit further up Puddle Dock and we can see where the entrance to the theatre dives under the 1980s office block: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-7.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-7.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21124"/></a></figure> Development of the Mermaid Theatre progressed as follows: <ul> <li>OCTOBER 1956; The Mermaid Theatre Trust is granted a lease of a bombed site in Puddle Dock. It is decided to incorporate the existing 4-ft thick walls in the design and simply bridge them with a concrete barrel roof. An appeal is launched for the £60,000 needed to complete and equip the building.</li> <li>JULY 1957. Sufficient money has been collected for work to start on the site. An open-air concert is held on the site to mark the launching of the building programme. Artists include Amy Shuard, Denis Matthews, Harold Jackson, Larry Adler and Max Bygraves. Some 1000 people sat on park chairs on a bombed site open to the sky, and a mercifully fine evening gives a good send off to the Mermaid project.</li> <li>SEPTEMBER 1957. The Lord Mayor of London launches a ‘buy-a-brick’ campaign to raise further funds for the theatre. He throws the first half-crown into a trunk on the steps of the historic Royal Exchange and appeals to the rank and file of City workers to support the venture. The two-week campaign brings some of the biggest names in show business into the streets and pubs of the City selling ‘bricks’. Over £3,000 is raised,</li> <li>DECEMBER 1957. Work on the building advances. The site is a sea of scaffolding as work begins on the roof. Meanwhile the work of collecting money continues. Cheques roll in from the great mercantile exchanges, from banks and shipping companies, from stockbrokers, charitable trusts and insurance companies. From a host of firms and individuals.</li> <li>MARCH 1958. The roof is on, A roof-warming party is held on the site. A torch lit at the stage door of the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane (London’s oldest theatre) is run through the streets to Puddle Dock by relays of the John Tiller Girls. on arrival at the Mermaid it is taken over by Norman Wisdom who casts it into the faggots beneath a 15-gallon cauldron of punch which is then served to the 1000 guests. Later, Norman joins the builders on the roof to drink a toast. Meanwhile, Sir Donald Wolfit, in a speech to the crowd, declares the roof ‘ well and truly no longer open’. The first stage of the building is complete.</li> <li>JUNE 1958. Members of the Moscow Art Theatre Company pay a visit to the site. At tables under the new roof they sit down to a traditional English meal – roast beef and ale from the wood. During their visit, the director of the company, Mr. A. Golodovnikov, traces the M.A.T.’s seagull emblem in a block of cement as a permanent reminder of the visit. The Mermaid is made an honorary member of the M.A.T.</li> <li>AUGUST 1958. the building is well advanced. the restaurant and dressing room area overlooking the river is nearing completion. Work has started on the seating ramp in the auditorium.</li> <li>APRIL 1959. The auditorium and restaurant are complete. Work continues in the foyer.</li> <li>MAY 1959. All is ready. A two year battle is won.</li> </ul> Before continuing with the story of the Mermaid Theatre, lets have a look at the location of the theatre, as the place today is very different compared to when the theatre opened in 1959. The area around Puddle Dock was completely redeveloped in the late 1970s / early 1980s. New office blocks were built around the theatre, Puddle Dock was filled in, and replaced by the road that retains the name of the old dock, and the theatre was completely redeveloped. This redevelopment resulted in the building that we see today, with a larger block to the south, overlooking the river, where the Mermaid Theatre restaurant and bar were located, the auditorium running back along the site of Puddle Dock, and the entrance to the theatre under the office block that spans Puddle Dock. In the following photo, I am looking across the street Puddle Dock to the theatre entrance under the office block: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-5.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-5.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21122"/></a></figure> A close-up showing the glass windows of the entrance foyer, and a small passage running between the theatre and an office block to the left: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-6.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-6.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21123"/></a></figure> The late 1970s / early 1980s redevelopment of this whole area was significant, and included the reclamation of some of the Thames foreshore, and the rerouting of a historic London street. The following map extract is from an early 1950s edition of the OS map. I have circled the word “ruin”, and this is the location of the ruined warehouse in the photo earlier in the post, and also the location of the Mermaid Theatre (Map <a href="https://maps.nls.uk/index.html">‘Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland</a>“): <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-17.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="569" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-17-1024x569.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21135" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-17-1024x569.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-17-300x167.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-17-768x427.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-17-624x347.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-17.jpg 1515w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> You will see that Upper Thames Street runs to the north of the ruined warehouse, and further along to where it joins Queen Victoria Street. As part of the 1970s / 1980s redevelopment, the foreshore in front of the 1959 build of the Mermaid Theatre was reclaimed, and Upper Thames Street rerouted to run along this reclaimed land as a dual carriageway (the route of the red line in the above map), part of the Lower and Upper Thames Street changes that provided a dual carriageway from north of the Tower of London to join with the Embankment. And where Upper Thames Street once ran – a typical Victorian street lined by large warehouses and offices, today, in front of the Mermaid Theatre, there is a short passageway. Upper Thames Street once ran along here: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-9-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1920" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-9-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21126" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-9-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-9-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> A wider view: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-8-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1920" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-8-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21125" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-8-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-8-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> When the Mermaid Theatre opened in 1959, the main entrance to the theatre was onto the original alignment of Upper Thames Street, where the short passageway is in the above photo. The following photo shows the main entrance to the theatre, with Upper Thames Street (as confirmed by the street sign on the theatre) in front of the building – now a short, dark passageway: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-12-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1601" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-12-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21129" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-12-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-12-300x188.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> if you walked into the entrance shown above, through the foyer and then into the auditorium, then this would have been your view down to the stage, with the original warehouse walls to left and right, and the new concrete roof above: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-11-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1610" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-11-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21128" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-11-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-11-300x189.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The view of the auditorium in the above photo may look rather basic, however at opening, the Mermaid Theatre had: <ul> <li>500 theatre seats on a single sharply-raked tier</li> <li>A stage of 48 feet wide by 28 feet deep</li> <li>An extensive stage lighting system</li> <li>The Mermaid was the first theatre in the country to have a stereophonic sound system, a donation from the Decca Record Company</li> <li>Restaurant and snack bars</li> <li>Eight dressing rooms with total accommodation for 50 to 60 actors. The dressing rooms were named after Wards of the City of London – Castle Baynard, Candlewick, Newgate, Cordwainer, Dowgate, Cripplegate, Broad Street and Queenhithe.</li> </ul> After opening, and throughout the 1960s and 1970s, the Mermaid Theatre was generally successful. An almost continuous run of different productions, apparently able to attract many of the leading actors of the time, as well as good audience numbers, although finances were always a challenge. Bernard Miles and Josephine Wilson had the role of artistic directors, and Bernard Miles would occasionally also appear in one of the Mermaid’s productions. The symbol of the Mermaid Theatre, on all their programmes, advertising etc., from the 1959 opening, was a mermaid, as shown on the cover of the programme for the 1972 production of Noel Coward’s Cowardy Custard: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-18.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-18.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21136"/></a></figure> The Mermaid was often struggling financially, so as well as the revenue from ticket sales, the theatre was always looking for additional sources of revenue, and as with theatres today, food and drink made up a large part of this. In the Mermaid Theatre, there was the Riverside Restaurant, the Tavern Restaurant, the Whitbread Bar, the Charrington Bar and a Snack Bar: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-19-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1802" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-19-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21137"/></a></figure> The cast list from the 1972 production of Cowardy Custard: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-20-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1835" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-20-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21138" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-20-scaled.jpg 1835w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-20-215x300.jpg 215w" sizes="(max-width: 1835px) 100vw, 1835px" /></a></figure> When the area around the Mermaid Theatre was redeveloped, the theatre had to close for an extended period of time. This work involved the reclamation of the foreshore, build of a new embankment and the move of Upper Thames Street from the north of the theatre to the new dual carriageway to the south, filling in Puddle Dock, and build of the new road alongside the theatre, and the build of all the new office blocks that today surround the theatre. The new route of Upper Thames Street is shown by the red line on the earlier OS map extract. Bernard Miles was able to get some support for the rebuild of the Mermaid Theatre out of the developers of all the change, and this resulted in the slightly enlarged theatre building that we see today. However it also cost the Mermaid a considerable sum of money, and in the programmes that went with their early 1980s productions, they advertised the: “MERMAID APPEAL – The Mermaid Theatre Trust offers warn thanks to those who have contributed in cash and in kind to the rejuvenation of the theatre. BUT, the hard winter of 1979 and the medieval and Victorian obstacles underground slowed up our rebuilding and combined with inflation to push up the cost of completing our existing building by £100,000. PLEASE HELP TO TOP US UP.” The medieval and Victorian obstacles underground highlights that when the 1959 Mermaid was built, it was mainly built within the ruins of an existing building, and there was no need to go down below the surface for the majority of construction work. When the Mermaid reopened in 1981, the first production was a musical version of the 17th century play Eastward Ho. This was a financial disaster and lost £80,000, and over the next two years, losses kept increasing to reach a total of £650,000. One of the 1981 productions was “Children Of A Lesser God”, which opened on the 25th of August, 1981: <div class="wp-block-image"> <figure class="aligncenter size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-21-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="584" height="1024" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-21-584x1024.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21141" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-21-584x1024.jpg 584w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-21-171x300.jpg 171w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-21-768x1346.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-21-876x1536.jpg 876w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-21-1168x2048.jpg 1168w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-21-scaled.jpg 1460w" sizes="(max-width: 584px) 100vw, 584px" /></a></figure></div> Which starred Trevor Eve, Elizabeth Quinn, and Irene Sutcliffe: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-22-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="2236" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-22-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21142" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-22-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-22-300x262.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The above programme was one of the last to list Bernard Miles and his wife Josephine Wilson as Artistic Directors. Two years after reopening, debts were so bad that the Trustees were forced to put the Mermaid up for sale. Bernard Miles and Josephine Wilson stepped down as Artistic Directors. The Mermaid Theatre was purchased by Ugandan Asian businessman Abdul Shamji through his property company Gomba Holdings. Shamji was sentenced to 15 months imprisonment in 1989 following the collapse of the Johnson Matthey Bank, and the Mermaid Theatre then went through a series of different owners, and with different artistic directors and managers, however the theatre never reached the success in terms of productions, actors and audiences that it had done under Bernard Miles (although it had always struggled financially). In 2000 it was basically a redundant building, and in 2002 it was scheduled for demolition as part of a redevelopment plan for the area (which never materialised), and in 2003 the Mayor of London blocked any demolition. The theatre was used for a number of BBC concerts, and the formal end of the building as a theatre came in 2008 when the Corporation of London City Planning Committee removed the theatre license from the Mermaid Theatre. When the Mermaid was opened in 1959, it was the first theatre in the City of London for almost 300 years, by the time the theatre was redundant, the City of London had a theatre at the Barbican, so there was probably no perceived need to, or interest in financially supporting the smaller Mermaid. The building was then turned into an<a href="https://the-mermaid.co.uk/"> exhibition and conference centre, a role it continues to this day</a> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-23.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-23.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21143"/></a></figure> Bernard Miles was recognised for his work both as an actor and with the Mermaid Theatre as in 1953 he was made a CBE, he was knighted in 1969 and in 1979 he was made a Life Peer as Lord Miles of Blackfriars in the City of London. His choice as being titled “Lord Miles of Blackfriars” probably indicates his deep connection with Blackfriars and the Mermaid. Whilst the Mermaid building is a reminder of Bernard Miles’ original dream of a new theatre in the City of London, there is almost nothing to remember Bernard Miles or Josephine Wilson around Puddle Dock. The one exception requires a walk up to the walkway on Baynard House (one of the office blocks that were built as part of the major redevlopment of the area – the walkway can be accessed from stairs on Queen Victoria Street, and provides access to Blackfriars Station). In this gradually decaying space can be found the Seven Ages of Man sculpture by Richard Kindersly: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-14.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-14.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21131"/></a></figure> A plaque on one of the side plinths near the sculpture records that the work was unveiled by Lord Miles of Blackfriars on the 23rd of April, 1980: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-15.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-15.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21132"/></a></figure> Bernard Miles continued to act after stepping down from the Mermaid Theatre, but these roles must have been difficult given his previous 30 years involvement with the Mermaid, from the initial idea through to stepping down as artistic director. In 1983, he took on the role of Firs, the old retainer, in Lindsay Anderson’s production of the Cherry Orchard, at the same time as what could have been considered his very own cherry orchard, the Mermaid, was being sold. Bernard Miles and his wife Josephine Wilson had put almost all their own money into the Mermaid Theatre, and in 1989 they had to move from their four bedroomed house in Canonbury to a flat. Josephine died in 1990, she had been Bernard Mile’s strongest and most consistent supporter throughout their life together, and during the whole period of the Mermaid, from the original idea through to the loss of their roles with the theatre. After the death of his wife, Bernard moved into a Middlesex nursing home, and it was rumoured that he only had his state pension to live on. The Mermaid Theatre’s new management staged a gala benefit in his honour, and despite being confined to a wheel chair, and also partially deaf, we was able to hear the many tributes that were paid to him, whilst in the theatre that had been his main life’s work. Bernard Miles died on the 14th of June, 1991. Obituaries after his death celebrate his role in the founding of the Mermaid Theatre and the challenges that he overcame in getting the idea of the theatre from a bomb damaged warehouse through to a working theatre in the City of London. They also identify a number of shortcomings, that perhaps he never recognised his shortcomings as an actor, that he wanted to take on the great roles of theatre, but in the words of one obituary “he played them and was terrible in all of them”. He was strongly loyal to his old actor and director friends, but again was blind to their inadequacies. He also failed to listen to advice when he had an idea and wanted to see it through, which was one of the reasons why the Mermaid frequently struggled financially. Despite these shortcomings, he was widely remembered with affection and for his achievement in bringing the Mermaid to the City of London, long before the Royal Shakespeare Company were established at the Barbican. I have tried to visit the Mermaid, and to take some photos, however there has been no response to my requests. A walk around the outside of the theatre shows the Mermaid surrounded by the developments of the 1970s / 80s, but this could all change as there are proposals for a wholesale redevelopment of the area, and it is one part of London that does need to change – one of the most unfriendly pedestrian places you will find in the City of London. Nothing appears to remain from before the theatre was built (although I would love to know what is underneath the Mermaid), however I did find these two strange red painted metal objects to either side of one of the doors to the theatre: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-4.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Mermaid-Theatre-4.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21121"/></a></figure> They appear to be made of iron, and are completly out of place with their surroundings. Two thirds of the way up, there is a slot on both objects, the type of slot that looks as if a wooden plank would have been inserted to bar the way. It would be interesting to know if these are survivors from the time before the Mermaid was built. The Mermaid Theatre is a fascinating story of how one man’s single minded devotion to an idea, led to the founding of the first new theatre in the City of London in almost 300 years, and in many ways, also led to its downfall. I hope in the redevelopment of the area, the story of Bernard Miles, Josephine Wilson, and the Mermaid Theatre does not get lost. You may also be interested in my post on <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-streets/puddle-dock-and-a-city-laystall/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Puddle Dock And a City Laystall</a>, and <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-churches/queen-victoria-street-and-upper-thames-street-a-lost-road-junction/">Queen Victoria Street and Upper Thames Street – A Lost Road Junction</a>. I will also be running the walk “The Lost Landscape and Transformation of Puddle Dock and Thames Street” in the summer of next year. <a href="https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/o/a-london-inheritance-walks-33326287375">Follow here on Eventbrite to get updates when new walks are available</a>. <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/">alondoninheritance.com</a> <div class="sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled"><div class="robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing"><h3 class="sd-title">Share this:</h3><div class="sd-content"><ul><li class="share-twitter"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-url="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-buildings/the-mermaid-theatre-puddle-dock/" data-text="The Mermaid Theatre - Puddle Dock" data-via="VanishedLondon" >Tweet</a></li><li class="share-facebook"><div class="fb-share-button" data-href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-buildings/the-mermaid-theatre-puddle-dock/" data-layout="button_count"></div></li><li><a href="#" class="sharing-anchor sd-button share-more">More</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul><div class="sharing-hidden"><div class="inner" style="display: none;width:150px;"><ul style="background-image:none;"><li class="share-bluesky"><a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" data-shared="sharing-bluesky-21134" class="share-bluesky sd-button" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-buildings/the-mermaid-theatre-puddle-dock/?share=bluesky" target="_blank" title="Click to share on Bluesky" >Bluesky</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div> </div> <footer class="entry-meta"> This entry was posted in <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/london-buildings/" rel="category tag">London Buildings</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/london-history/" rel="category tag">London History</a> and tagged <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/mermaid-theatre/" rel="tag">Mermaid Theatre</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/puddle-dock/" rel="tag">Puddle Dock</a> on <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-buildings/the-mermaid-theatre-puddle-dock/" title="7:30 am" rel="bookmark"><time class="entry-date" datetime="2024-11-03T07:30:00+00:00">November 3, 2024</time></a> by <a class="url fn n" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/author/admin/" title="View all posts by admin" rel="author">admin</a>. </footer> </article> <article id="post-21102" class="post-21102 post type-post status-publish format-standard hentry category-london-infrastructure category-the-thames tag-london-docks tag-royal-docks tag-royal-victoria-dock"> <header class="entry-header"> <h1 class="entry-title"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-victoria-dock-in-2024-part-2/" rel="bookmark">Royal Victoria Dock in 2024 – Part 2</a> </h1> <div class="comments-link"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-victoria-dock-in-2024-part-2/#comments">12 Replies</a> </div> </header> <div class="entry-content"> <a href="https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/the-lost-streets-of-the-barbican-tickets-1032692610397">One ticket has just become available for my walk this Saturday, the 2nd of November, exploring the Lost Street of the Barbican. Click here for details and booking.</a> In today’s post, I am continuing my walk around the Royal Victoria Dock, completing the second half of the walk, along with a couple of short diversions to look at how the area around the dock along with Silvertown has, and continues to be, redeveloped. The following map shows the route of today’s post, starting at the circle at lower right, which was where I ended the walk in the previous post, and ending at Royal Victoria DLR station at upper left  (<a href="https://www.openstreetmap.org/copyright">© OpenStreetMap contributors)</a>: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-85JPG.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="667" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-85JPG-1024x667.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21101" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-85JPG-1024x667.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-85JPG-300x195.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-85JPG-768x500.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-85JPG-624x407.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-85JPG.jpg 1303w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> And this was my first diversion away from the dock, with a walk down to see the Thames Barrier Park: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-48-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1715" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-48-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21066" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-48-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-48-300x201.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Thames Barrier Park was completed, and opened in November 2000. Whilst it is a “normal” park, consisting of open green space, trees etc. there is one really unique feature in the park, which can be seen in the map on the poster. This is a slightly angled, 130 foot long sunken garden, which has parallel lines of planting and hedges, which have been trimmed to give the impression of a series of waves running along the length of the garden. The following view is looking along the sunken garden from the north, down to the Thames Barrier, which can just be seen in the distance: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-49-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-49-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21067" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-49-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-49-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> I did wonder if the sunken garden occupied the space of a dock, however after checking OS maps of the area, there was no dock covering the length of the garden, although there was a small dock that covered part of the lower section of the sunken garden, towards the river, so whilst this may have been the inspiration for the sunken garden, the large area we see today was down to the construction of the park. The site was occupied by chemical works (as was so much of the Silvertown riverside), with petrochemical and acid products being processed and manufactured. So great was the contamination of the soil, that a six foot layer of crushed concrete was placed on top of the original ground level to protect the new topsoil. Whilst I can see that this applied to the area of the park surrounding the sunken garden, as this part of the park is slightly raised, the land of the sunken garden must have been specially treated. Looking north along the sunken garden, where a DLR train can be seen entering the Pontoon Dock station: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-50.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-50.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21103"/></a></figure> The park is named after the Thames Barrier, and there is a good view of the barrier from the southern end of the park: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-51-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-51-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21068" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-51-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-51-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The following photo is looking to the east along the river, showing the gently sloping foreshore along this part of the river, along with new apartment buildings and industrial sites on the far side of the river: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-52-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-52-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21069" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-52-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-52-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Walking back up to North Woolwich Road, and we can see one of the defining industrial features of the area, the Grade II listed Grain Silo D: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-53-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-53-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21070" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-53-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-53-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Grain Silo D was built in the early 1920s alongside one of the finger channels in Pontoon Dock, off the south side of the Royal Victoria Dock. The silo was used to extract and store grain from ships moored in the channel alongside, using either a bucket conveyor or by a suction elevator. Grain in the silo would be transported onwards, either by barge, or by the rail network that crossed the area between the mills to the south of the Royal Victoria Dock, and the wider rail network. Silo D was built on the site of an original silo which was damaged in the Silvertown explosion of January 1917 (the subject of a future post). The following 1921 photo from Britain from Above shows Silo D under final construction to lower left, with the original silos A, B, and C surrounding the new silo (Image Source: <a href="https://www.britainfromabove.org.uk/en/image/EPW006144" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">EPW006144 ENGLAND (1921). Industrial buildings and wharfage, Silvertown, 1921</a>): <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-86.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="612" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-86-1024x612.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21106" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-86-1024x612.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-86-300x179.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-86-768x459.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-86-1536x918.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-86-624x373.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-86.jpg 1900w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> In the above photo, you can see the rail tracks to the left of the silos, with a shed covering part of the track next to each silo. Grain would have been transported by conveyor belt from the silos to the sheds, where is was loaded onto the goods wagons on the rail network, for processing in the nearby Millennium Mills. Silo D is Grade II listed, and will be retained within the extensive redevelopment which is taking place around Pontoon Dock. It will have its own “Quarter” – the Silo D Quarter, where the building will sit alongside the retained dock water, but surrounded by new developments. <a href="https://www.silvertown.co.uk/vision/five-character-areas/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">You can see an image of the future location of Silo D by scrolling down a short distance on the Lendlease Silvertown website, by clicking here.</a> .Another “Quarter” in the redevelopment of the area around Pontoon Dock is the Mills Quarter, which will be based around the old Millennium Mills. At the top of the Lendlease Silvertown website page accessed via the above link, is an image of the rear of the Millennium Mills buildings, once development of the area is complete. The rear of the building as seen in 2024: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-54-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-54-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21071" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-54-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-54-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The map at the top of the page on the Lendlease Silvertown website shows just how large the redevelopment is, along the south east section of the Royal Victoria Dock. Whilst redevelopment of the area that has been derelict for so long is much needed, as are the homes that will be built, the issue I have is the identikit design of the buildings, very similar to almost all other areas of London also undergoing development. Also, the way (particularly with Silo D), new buildings appear to crowd around those that remain from the working docks. Having said that, this type of identical housing blocks is a similar approach to the streets of terrace housing that covered so much of the land over which London expanded during the 19th and early decades of the 20th centuries. There is very little left of pre-war housing around Silvertown. One stretch is along Mill Road just to the west of Silo D, where there is a row of houses on the eastern side of the street, although only the first ten are pre-war, the rest of the street (from just past the lamp post along the street) dates from the late 1950s / early 1960: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-55.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-55.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21072"/></a></figure> In the above photo, a chimney can be seen at the end of Mill Road, and walking to the northern end of the street, close to the Royal Victoria Dock, we can see the chimney in the centre of a roundabout: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-56.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-56.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21073"/></a></figure> I will show the original surroundings of the chimney later in the post as it is a remarkable survivor, however at the end of Mill Road, we can see the western side of the Millennium Mills complex: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-57-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-57-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21074" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-57-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-57-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Along with the rear of Silo D: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-58-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-58-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21075" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-58-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-58-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> And by the roundabout with the chimney at the centre, if we look at one of the turn offs from the roundabout, which ends abruptly at a gate, we can see the Millennium Mills buildings: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-59.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-59.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21076"/></a></figure> The Millennium Mills we see today are not the original buildings bearing the name. The Royal Victoria Dock was long a centre for grain storage and flour milling, and the company William Vernon & Sons built the first Millennium Mills in 1905 to mill flour. Vernon’s produced flour using the brand name “Millennium Flour”, and they won awards and gained a considerable market, based on advertising which featured the quality of their flour, and the expertise that went into their milling process, for example, from the Evening News on Saturday the 13th of February 1909: “Science controls the ‘Millennium’ Mills. It dictates the operations resulting in ‘Millennium’ Flour, which the good housewife knows makes the best-flavoured and most nutritious bread on the market. Say ‘MILLENNIUM’ to Baker – always.” And from the Evening News on Friday the 23rd of April 1909: “Millennium Flour cannot be surpassed. All that science can do has been done at ‘Millennium’ Mills to ensure the production of perfect flour. only the highest grade wheat is used, and absolute cleanliness in every process is insisted upon. Say ‘Millennium’ to Baker – always.” Vernon’s milling and cleanliness was such that they also advertised that their flour was the purest white on the market. As well as alongside the Royal Victoria Dock in London, Vernon’s also had a similar mill in Liverpool, another port where imported grain was received. In 1910 they were advertising “Remarkable Facts” about the capacity of their two mills, with: “The daily capacity of the Millennium Mills is equal to an output of 9,600 bags of 140 lbs. each; i.e. about 3,000,000 per annum – sufficient to supply the seven million people of London with bread for two months and a half. The loading out capacity into barges or lighters at each mill is 3,000 bags per hour. the Granary departments have a storage capacity of 250,000 sacks of wheat.” The original Millennium Mills buildings were damaged in the Silvertown explosion, with the mill back in full operation in 1920 as William Vernon & Sons were advertising an auction of all the surplus material left over from the rebuilding process, which included 30,000 stock bricks, 3 Tons of bolts, ladders, barrows, tools etc. In the same year, William Vernon & Sons amalgamated with Spillers Ltd, another business who started as flour millers in Bridgewater, Somerset in 1829, (although it looks more like a take over by Spillers). Throughout the 1920s, the business was expanding rapidly, and in the following decades, the buildings alongside the Royal Victoria Dock were rebuilt. Luckily, the buildings have their year of construction at the very top, so going back to the photo above, the smaller building on the right dates from 1933: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-60-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-60-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21077" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-60-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-60-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> And the larger building on the left dates from 1954, which was part of the post war rebuild of the site following bomb damage during the Second World War: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-61-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-61-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21078" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-61-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-61-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Whilst the name of William Vernon, the company that originally started milling at the Royal Victoria Dock has disappeared, the brand name of their flour “Millennium” can still be seen on the mill building today, alongside the name of the company that took them over – “Spillers”: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-62-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-62-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21079" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-62-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-62-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The end came n 1981 with the closure of the Royal Docks, although the mill had been in decline for some years before. And since closure it has remained empty and derelict, but has been been used in numerous films, TV programmes, music videos and, in the case of Jean-Michel Jarre’s Destination Docklands, the building was painted white and used as a backdrop for the concert. Music videos that have included the mill, along with other views of the docks include Ask by the Smiths: <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zoo9Vu1a9bU?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> And Take Back the City by Snow Patrol: <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/sY_hkrQNAQo?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> Along with Fluorescent Adolescent by the Artic Monkeys: <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ma9I9VBKPiw?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> There are many others. From the roundabout, there is a view of the chimney and the Millennium Mills: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-63-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-63-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21080" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-63-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-63-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> And using one of the photos from Britain from Above, it is possible to locate where the chimney was, in relation to the rest of the buildings that were on the site, both remaining and demolished (<a href="https://www.britainfromabove.org.uk/image/EAW035762" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Image source: https://www.britainfromabove.org.uk/image/EAW035762</a>) <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-84JPG.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="613" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-84JPG-1024x613.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21100" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-84JPG-1024x613.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-84JPG-300x180.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-84JPG-768x460.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-84JPG-624x373.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-84JPG.jpg 1422w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> The arrows point to the following: <ul> <li>The red arrow is pointing to the chimney that now stands alone at the centre of a small roundabout</li> <li>The oranage arrow is pointing to the 1933 building that can be seen today</li> <li>The yellow arrow points to the 1954 building, which can also be seen today</li> <li>The green arrow is pointing to the infrastructure that was used to extract grain from ships and move to the mill buildings. i have included my father’s photo of these structures from his 1953 visit, below:</li> </ul> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-12-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1639" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-12-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20978" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-12-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-12-300x192.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> I have now reached the edge of the dock, and one of the first areas that was redeveloped around the Royal Victoria Dock – Britannia Village: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-64-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-64-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21081" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-64-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-64-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Britannia Village occupies the south west corner of the Royal Victoria Dock and was built during the 1990s and consists of, by today’s standards, relatively low rise housing, typically up to four or five floors. Between the houses that face onto the dock, and the dock, there is a walkway along the old quay, where a number of original cranes have been retained: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-65-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1700" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-65-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21082" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-65-scaled.jpg 1700w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-65-199x300.jpg 199w" sizes="(max-width: 1700px) 100vw, 1700px" /></a></figure> The cranes are all Grade II listed, and were made by Stothert and Pitt Cranes of Bath. The majority date from 1962, however there are two 1950’s cranes included in those still standing around the dock. All the industry that once surround the Royal Docks has long gone, as has the majority of industry along the river, however there were two places that I wanted to find that have survived, because they are dependent on the river rather than the docks. I will cover the main site when I walk around the Royal Albert and King George V docks, but for today, it was a short walk south from the south west corner of the Royal Victoria Dock to find the factory that makes Lyle’s Golden Syrup: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-66-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-66-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21104" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-66-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-66-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Abram Lyle was born in Greenock, Scotland in 1820 and operated a cooperage and shipping business, with many of his ships transporting sugar cane. In 1881, he expanded on this involvement in the sugar trade, by building a sugar refinery along the Thames. Part of the process to refine sugar produces a thick treacle like substance, and Lyle used this byproduct to produce a syrup which could be used in cooking and as a sweetener. This was originally called “Goldie”. The name soon changed to Lyle’s Golden Syrup, and in 1885, the syrup was sold for the first time in tins, with the same branding that has survived to this day (the company holds a Guinness World Record for the longest running brand), and the company today has one of the tins on the corner of their building: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-67-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1677" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-67-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21083" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-67-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-67-300x197.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The trademark on the tin names Abram Lyle & Sons, Sugar Refiners, with an image of a lion in the centre surrounded by bees. This image is a result of Abram Lyle’s religious convictions as the image is based on a story in the Old Testament of the Bible of Samson’s lion and bees, which results in the slogan “Out of the strong came forth sweetness”, which can be seen just below the lion. Abram Lyle’s company merged with the sugar refining company of Henry Tate, who also had a nearby sugar refinery (in a later post), to form Tate & Lyle. Tate & Lyle sold their sugar refining business, which included Lyle’s Golden Syrup in 2010 to American Sugar Refining, Inc. (part of their ASR name can just be seen in the above photo), with Tate & Lyle focusing on specialty ingredients. Part of the sale included American Sugar Refining continuing to use the Tate & Lyle and Lyle’s Golden Syrup branding. The factory on the banks of the Thames today produces over one million tins of Lyle’s Golden Syrup, which is also sold in different formats such as plastic bottles, and is exported across the world. A wonderful survivor from when this part of the river was end to end industry. To the east of the Lyle’s factory is a large open space, which is not included in the main Silvertown development to the south of the Royal Victoria Dock, and around Pontoon Dock, however its location next to the river makes it a prime future redevelopment site: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-68-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-68-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21084" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-68-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-68-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> After this brief diversion, I have returned to the Royal Victoria Dock, and am now at the south west corner, looking east along the dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-69.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-69.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21085"/></a></figure> To the left, I can see the western end of the Royal Victoria Dock, indeed of the whole Royal Docks complex. Where the white floats in the water are located was the locked entrance between the River Thames and the Royal Victoria Dock, the original and only entrance when the Victoria Dock was first built: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-70-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-70-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21086" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-70-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-70-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> This locked entrance was completely filled in after the closure of the docks, but the outline of the entrance can still be seen at this corner of the dock. To the right is the latest site of City Hall – the location of the Mayor of London and London Authority. And from the end of the dock, I can look east along the full length of the Royal Victoria Dock, a view which shows the sheer scale of this dock, just one of three that eventually made up the Royal Docks complex: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-71.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-71.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21087"/></a></figure> In the above photo, the thin line of the walkway bridge that spans the dock roughly half way along can be seen in the distance. Zooming in, we can see the bridge, and behind that the Connaught Bridge where the Royal Victoria meet the Royal Albert Dock, and this later dock is much longer than the Victoria: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-72-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-72-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21088" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-72-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-72-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> There is very little that has survived from the time when the docks were operational. The cranes are the most obvious features, and at this western end of the dock there is an old capstan: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-74-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-74-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21090" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-74-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-74-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Which was also made by Stothert and Pitt of Bath, the same company that made the cranes that remain around the dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-87-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-87-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21109" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-87-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-87-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Looking across the western end of the dock, and we can see the start (or end) of the cable car that runs over the river to the Greenwich Peninsula: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-73-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-73-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21089" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-73-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-73-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Before continuing round the western end of the docks, I took another quick diversion down towards the river, to see a construction site for a new route across the river that will soon be operational: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-76.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-76.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21092"/></a></figure> This is a large area between the west end of the Royal Victoria Dock, and the river, all to the west of the Lyle Golden Syrup factory. Boarded off so it is not yet possible to walk down to the river, and with part of the Docklands Light Railway running across, which provides a good view of the site: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-75.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-75.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21091"/></a></figure> This is the site on the north of the river where the Silvertown Tunnel is being constructed. The Silvertown Tunnel is expected to open in 2025 and and as well as lanes for traffic, it will also include a dedicated bus lane. First proposed in 2012, the tunnel is intended to address congestion issues at the Blackwall Tunnel by providing additional capacity across the river. Construction of the Silvertown Tunnel along with ongoing operation and maintenance has all been privately financed, and when the tunnel opens there will be a charge applied to vehicles using the tunnel, and to stop people continuing to use the Blackwall Tunnel as a free alternative, a charge will also be introduced to use the Blackwall Tunnel. Looking through one of the access gates to the construction site, we can see the distinctive building that is on top of the northern access portal to the tunnel, where traffic running to and from Silvertown Way and Lower Lea Crossing, will be able to access the tunnel to and from the Greenwich Peninsula: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-77-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-77-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21093" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-77-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-77-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> When complete, the area around the tunnel portal will be landscaped, and completion of construction work will free up a considerable area of land around the portal, and down to the Thames for further development. It will be interesting to return towards the end of next year when the tunnel should be in operation. It will continue to be a construction site, but then probably lots of apartment blocks. Returning to the western end of the Royal Victoria Dock and this is the new City Hall building, home of the Mayor of London and the London Authority: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-78.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-78.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21094"/></a></figure> The building was originally called the Crystal and was built by the engineering company Siemens and opened in 2012 as an exhibition centre, learning and global knowledge hub focusing on the future of the city and on sustainability. When it opened, Boris Johnson, the Mayor of London said that “It is a clear sign of the confidence in London’s ability to nurture and support eco-enterprises that Siemens has chosen to locate its flagship centre of sustainability here in the UK capital. The Crystal is set to sit at the heart of a brand new Green Enterprise District, which will sweep across east of the city. We envisage that the district will be a vibrant, international hub incubating dozens of low carbon businesses.” Four years later, Siemens sold the building back to the Greater London Authority and left the building a few years later after an early surrender of their 7 year lease on the building. In 2021, the London Authority used a break clause in their lease of the City Hall building on the south of the Thames, next to Tower Bridge. The London Authority did not own the original City Hall, it was leased from the the Kuwaiti owned St Martin’s Property Group, who also own the surrounding land and buildings between Hay’s Wharf and Tower Bridge. The move to a building the London Authority already owned was planned to saved a large amount of money over the following years, along with being part of the regeneration of the Royal Docks complex, by moving a significant London institution, along with a large number of staff, to the docks. It is interesting that the London Authority and Mayor of London are now based in a building that was until 1965, part of Essex, when the implementation of the London Government Act 1963 transferred the area to the east of the River Lea from Essex to Greater London. The same comment applies to the Royal Docks, as for most of their operational life, they were in Essex, rather than London. in the same year as the Crystal building opened (2012), the cable car also opened, taking passengers across the river to the Greenwich Peninsula, and opposite the new City Hall building is the Royal Victoria Dock entrance to the cable car, where gondolas start their journey across the river: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-79-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1690" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-79-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21095" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-79-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-79-300x198.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The Cable Car has never been the success expected during planning, and after an initial peak of users after opening in 2012, the annual number of travelers on the cable car has dropped considerably, with summer peaks showing that the cable car is mainly used by visitors to the Royal Docks and Greenwich Peninsula, rather than commuters or workers. The following graph shows the number of travelers in millions from 2012 on the left to April 2024. For the reporting period of 2023 / 2024, the maximum usage was 180,000 a month, with the minimum usage being 70,000 a month. <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-88.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="908" height="618" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-88.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21111" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-88.jpg 908w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-88-300x204.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-88-768x523.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-88-624x425.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 908px) 100vw, 908px" /></a></figure> Gondolas leave and arrive over the Royal Victoria Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-80.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-80.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21096"/></a></figure> I am now on my final part of the walk around the Royal Victoria Dock, and leaving the dock at the north west corner, I cross the Western Gateway, which is the main approach road to the Excel exhibition centre. Fully redeveloped with a bit of retail, hotels, restaurants and residential: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-81-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-81-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21097" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-81-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-81-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> On the opposite side of the Western Gateway, where Seagull Lane heads to the DLR station, is this strange structure: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-82-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1703" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-82-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21098" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-82-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-82-300x200.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> This was built between 1987 and 1988 as one of the early projects in the regeneration of the Royal Docks. The building is one of the storm-water pumping stations around the docks, and the surface structure conceals the majority of the infrastructure which extends 25 metres below ground level. <a href="https://rshp.com/projects/industrial/tidal-basin-pumping-station/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">There are some interesting diagrams and photos of the pumping station here.</a> The blue painting of the circular structures is now rather faded. When completed, this was a deep blue, with red and yellow for additional features of the station. These colours were chosen as “from the outset the building was meant to be a visual delight, an oasis in the drab industrial environment of Silvertown”. Much of the area around the Royal Victoria Dock has changed considerably in the years since the pumping station was completed, and there is not that much of the “drab industrial environment” left. And a short distance further, I reached the Royal Victoria DLR station, a fitting end to a walk around the whole of the Royal Victoria Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-83-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-83-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21099" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-83-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-83-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> I hope the last three posts on the Royal Docks and a walk around the Royal Victoria Dock has shown just how interesting the area is, from the vast area of the water that made up the original dock, to the way that the dock evolved and developed, the industries that surrounded the dock, and the potential future of the dock. The development around Pontoon Dock, the old Millennium Mill and Silo D will be transformative in one way or another. I just hope that some reference to the history of the docks survives and the story of those who built and worked at the docks is embedded into the new developments, and that the area does not become another densely packed area of identikit towers. And to finish, if you would like to relive the Jean Michel Jarre, Destination Docklands concert back in 1988, held in the Royal Victoria Dock, with the mill buildings in the background, including the building that was in one of my father’s photos in last week’s post, before it was demolished a few years later, the film is here: <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-4-3 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VATBlh5nOCc?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> If I remember correctly, the concert was on a barge on the dock (which was probably why children in the choir were wearing lifejackets). I have no idea how the electrical equipment they were using continued to work given the very wet weather on the day. I still have to cover the Royal Albert and King George VI Docks, however rather than a continuous run of posts on the Royal Docks, for next week’s post I will be visiting a very different place. <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/">alondoninheritance.com</a> <div class="sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled"><div class="robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing"><h3 class="sd-title">Share this:</h3><div class="sd-content"><ul><li class="share-twitter"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-url="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-victoria-dock-in-2024-part-2/" data-text="Royal Victoria Dock in 2024 – Part 2" data-via="VanishedLondon" >Tweet</a></li><li class="share-facebook"><div class="fb-share-button" data-href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-victoria-dock-in-2024-part-2/" data-layout="button_count"></div></li><li><a href="#" class="sharing-anchor sd-button share-more">More</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul><div class="sharing-hidden"><div class="inner" style="display: none;width:150px;"><ul style="background-image:none;"><li class="share-bluesky"><a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" data-shared="sharing-bluesky-21102" class="share-bluesky sd-button" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-victoria-dock-in-2024-part-2/?share=bluesky" target="_blank" title="Click to share on Bluesky" >Bluesky</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div> </div> <footer class="entry-meta"> This entry was posted in <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/london-infrastructure/" rel="category tag">London Infrastructure</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/the-thames/" rel="category tag">The Thames</a> and tagged <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/london-docks/" rel="tag">London Docks</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/royal-docks/" rel="tag">Royal Docks</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/royal-victoria-dock/" rel="tag">Royal Victoria Dock</a> on <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-victoria-dock-in-2024-part-2/" title="7:30 am" rel="bookmark"><time class="entry-date" datetime="2024-10-27T07:30:00+00:00">October 27, 2024</time></a> by <a class="url fn n" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/author/admin/" title="View all posts by admin" rel="author">admin</a>. </footer> </article> <article id="post-21040" class="post-21040 post type-post status-publish format-standard hentry category-london-infrastructure category-the-thames tag-london-docks tag-royal-docks tag-royal-victoria-dock"> <header class="entry-header"> <h1 class="entry-title"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-victoria-dock-in-2024-part-1/" rel="bookmark">Royal Victoria Dock in 2024 – Part 1</a> </h1> <div class="comments-link"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-victoria-dock-in-2024-part-1/#comments">10 Replies</a> </div> </header> <div class="entry-content"> The Royal Docks decline started in the late 1960s / early 1970s with the gradual shift in goods transport to containerisation and much larger ships. The Thames was not deep enough to allow these ships to travel all the way to the London Docks, and the much larger ports specialising in supporting container traffic were being developed in Felixstowe and Southampton. The last ship to be loaded in the Royal Docks left on the 7th of December 1981, and after that, the docks fell into a state of gradual dereliction. The Docklands Joint Committee was formed in January 1974, and published the <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-history/london-docklands-a-1976-strategic-plan/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">“London Docklands – A 1976 Strategic Plan”, which I have written about in this post</a>. Apart from the development of some local housing, the report did not lead to any significant redevelopment of the London Docks, including the Royal Docks. This would come in the 1980s, with the founding in 1981 of the London Docklands Development Corporation (LDDC), an agency set up specifically to drive the redevelopment of the docklands to the east of London, both north and south of the river. The Royal Docks came within the LDDC’s responsibility, and their many publications provide a record of their intentions for the docks, plans for redevelopment, and how this was being achieved. One such publication from 1990, as development of the Royal Docks was underway was “London Docklands – Royal Docks”, one of a series of publications covering each of the main dock areas: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-43-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="717" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-43-1024x717.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21053" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-43-1024x717.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-43-300x210.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-43-768x537.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-43-1536x1075.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-43-2048x1433.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-43-624x437.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> The photo on the front shows the renovation of one of the locked channels between the Thames and the docks. I suspect this is the lock between the King George V dock and the river, as it is the only remaining entrance to the docks that remains in place today, much as it did when the docks were fully operational. The photo gives an indication of the sheer scale of the dock entrances. Unfolding the brochure provides a map of the Royal Docks, with details of: <ul> <li>Schemes Proposed, Underway or Completed</li> <li>Major Development Schemes Being Discussed with Developers</li> <li>Sites Expected to Become Available</li> </ul> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-44-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1785" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-44-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21054" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-44-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-44-300x209.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The map shows the sheer scale of development proposed or planned, and this was just the Royal Docks, although they were by far the largest set of docks in London. Many development sites were completed as expected, however there were many other sites that took much longer to be developed and ended up with very different use to that planned in 1990. Large areas of the Royal Docks are still be developed, and there are still places of dereliction. It is a very interesting area to walk. The water area of the docks are slightly smaller than they were when operational, however they are still of a significant scale, and are very impressive as a man made structure. There are a few buildings and features left from when the docks were operational, and much to see of what the Royal Docks have become. So starting with today’s post, I am walking the first part of the Royal Victoria Dock. There is so much to see that I have had to split the overall walk into two posts. The map below shows the route covered in today’s post by the red line: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-45.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="586" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-45-1024x586.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21055" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-45-1024x586.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-45-300x172.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-45-768x440.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-45-624x357.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-45.jpg 1469w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> I am starting midway along the southern side of the Royal Victoria Dock, and one of the developments that was not included in the 1990 LDDC brochure is a very impressive pedestrian bridge that crosses the full width of the dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-1-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-1-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20999" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-1-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-1-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The bridge was commissioned by the LDDC and was opened on the 7th of October, 1997 by Glenda Jackson, the actress, who was also an MP and Minister of Transport in London at the time. There are lifts at each end of the bridge, however these have always been unreliable and were not correctly designed for their exposed location. Challenges with sourcing spares, which often had to be custom made, ever increasing cost and unreliability has resulted in the Royal Docks Management Authority Limited suspending any further maintenance of the lifts, and they did not appear to be working on the day of my visit. Instead, I took the 80 steps up to the top of the footbridge, and it is well worth the effort for the views. Although the lifts are not maintained, the rest of the bridge is, and when I walked across there were repairs to the floor of the walkway being undertaken: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-2-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-2-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21000" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-2-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> A walk across the bridge provides an idea of the sheer scale of these docks. This is a view looking east of just over half of the Royal Victoria Dock, with the old Millennium Mills buildings on the right and the Excel Exhibition Centre on the left: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-3-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-3-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21001" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-3-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-3-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> At the far end of the Royal Victoria Dock are the Royal Albert and King George V docks, and between these is the runway of London City Airport: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-4-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-4-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21002" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-4-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-4-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> On the other side of the bridge, along the south west corner of the dock, there has been considerable residential development with cranes along the edge of the dock providing a reminder of the dock’s heritage (this is area 38 in the LDDC map): <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-5-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-5-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21003" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-5-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-5-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> A close up of Millennium Mill – I will be looking at these buildings in detail in part 2 of the walk: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-6-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1663" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-6-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21004" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-6-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-6-300x195.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The view looking to the west, the remaining half of the dock from the footbridge: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-7-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-7-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21005" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-7-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-7-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> At the far end of the dock. to the left is the outline of the old entrance between the Royal Victoria Dock and the Thames, just a small part of where the locked entrance reached the main dock area. This was one of the first parts of the old dock infrastructure to be filled in and was not shown in the 1990 LDDC brochure. <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-9-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-9-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21007" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-9-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-9-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> To the right is the City Hall building, the latest home of the Mayor of London, London Assembly and the Greater London Authority, after leaving the building on the south of the river by Tower Bridge: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-8-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-8-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21006" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-8-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-8-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The Excel Exhibition Centre occupies the majority of the north bank of the dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-10-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-10-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21008" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-10-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-10-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Go back to the LDDC brochure, and the map shows that at area 31 there was planned a “Mixed development comprising arena and exhibition centre, housing, business accommodation, leisure, retail and community facilities”. This mix does generally seem to have been achieved. Using the bridge as a dividing point, to the left of the bridge there is residential, business accommodation, hotels and some retail and leisure, and to the right of the bridge is the Excel arena and exhibition centre. At the base of the bridge on the north side of the dock is the Sunborn London Yacht Hotel: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-11.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-11.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21009"/></a></figure> When writing this post, I had a quick look at pricing for a room on the yacht, and if you read this on the Sunday of publication, this evening, you could have a room with a dock view for £141 with an additional £35 for breakfast. This goes up to £977 for a suite with the “Ultimate Romantic Getaway” package. A very different ship, and very different use to when the dock was originally in use. In front of the main entrance to the exhibition centre is one of my favourite London statues: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-12-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1678" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-12-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21010" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-12-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-12-300x197.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The statue shows three dockers. At the rear is a Tally Clerk who is recording in his notebook the goods being moved, on the left is a docker attaching the chains from a crane to the pallet holding the cargo being moved, and on the right is a docker pushing a trolley that was used to move goods between the quayside and transit shed / warehouse. The figures depicted are based on real dockers, Johnny Ringwood, Patrick Holland, and Mark Tibbs. It was Johnny Ringwood who campaigned for the statue, and the Royal Docks Trust, ExceL Exhibition Centre and a contribution from the Queen Mother raised the £250,000 needed to complete the work by the sculptor Les Johnson. It was put in place in 2009, and there is a article on the BBC website showing Johnny Ringwood visiting the sculpture earlier this year. <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c2554nryv7xo">The article can be found here.</a> The importance of the role of the Tally Clerk (the figure in the sculpture with the notebook) can be seen in the following newspaper article from 1951: “More tally clerks from London docks struck today in sympathy with tally clerks at the Royal group of docks who struck yesterday. The National Dock Board announced that 913 tally clerks are on strike and 2,770 dockers are unable to work without them. London’s biggest docks – the Royal group – were almost idle today because the Dock Board engaged a tally clerk who was a member of the union but not of the local branch. More than 200 tally clerks staged a lightning unofficial strike last night claiming the Dock Board had broken the agreement not to recruit more tally clerks. More than 30 ships in the docks are held up, including the Eva Peron with the first shipment of Argentine beef since the new agreement was signed. Warehouses and dock space are choked with export goods waiting to be loaded after food and raw materials are unloaded.” As well as the figures being of real dockers, the other feature I like requires a close look at the cargo. A bit difficult to see, but the various items on the pallet are marked with the country of origin – Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Australia, and below the name of Hong Kong is Johnny Ringwood’s name: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-13.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-13.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21011"/></a></figure> The main entrance of the Excel Exhibition Centre: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-14.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-14.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21012"/></a></figure> Rather than Excel, I should use the correct name format of ExCeL, which stands for Exhibition Centre London – which does make the use of a second London at the top of the main entrance rather redundant. The first phase of the building opened in November 2000, with a second phase, which extended the building along the side of the dock, opening in 2010. There is a third phase currently under construction. In 2008 it was purchased by the Abu Dhabi National Exhibitions Company, as can be seen on the main entrance. The centre has hosted numerous large and small events. One that made use of the dock was the London Boat Show where large and small boats and ships were transported to the centre via the river and into the dock. Large ships were often moored alongside the dock when the show was on. If you have not visited an exhibition or conference at the centre, you are probably aware of it from publicity in 2020 when it was one of the NHS Nightingale Hospitals, set up during the Covid pandemic. It was equipped with 4,000 temporary beds, however I have seen references that it was only ever used by 54 Covid patients, and after opening in April 2020, it closed in April 2021. There is an interesting video showing the transformation of Excel into a hospital, supported by the military, here: <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZBrR3E3oI-E?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> There is not that much left from the time when the Royal Docks were operational, apart from the large expanse of water, however, just to the north of the main entrance to Excel, there is Warehouse K: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-15-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-15-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21013" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-15-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-15-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> This impressive run of brick warehouses is Grade II listed and was built between 1850 and 1855, the same time as the Victoria Dock was under construction. They were original a tobacco warehouse and was the first warehouse in London to be designed specifically for servicing by the railway. in this extract from the 1892 OS map, you can see Warehouse K marked, with the double line of a rail track running in front of the building, with the rail tracks running back to connect to the main lines of the railways supporting the Royal Docks (Map <a href="https://maps.nls.uk/index.html">‘Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland</a>“): <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-46.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="535" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-46-1024x535.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21058" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-46-1024x535.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-46-300x157.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-46-768x401.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-46-624x326.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-46.jpg 1504w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> I then headed down to the walkway between exhibition centre and dock, to walk along side the dock to the far end: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-16-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-16-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21014" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-16-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-16-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> There are still plenty of these quayside mooring bollards in place, and they look identical to the bollard in one of my father’s 1953 photos in the last post: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-17-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-17-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21015" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-17-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-17-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> One of the pleasures of writing the blog, is that I learn loads from the comments, and apparently these bollards were also called Dockers’ Mistresses. <a href="http://www.janeslondon.com/2016/05/dockers-mistresses-something-to-come.html?m=1" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">See this post from Jane’s London for an explanation.</a> A short distance along, and the pathway was blocked by an event at the Excel, and by construction work on phase 3 towards the far end of the centre. Very frustrating as I could not get to the point where my father had taken a couple of photos looking across the dock to buildings on the far side. <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-18-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-18-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21016" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-18-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-18-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> View looking across to the Millennium Mill: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-19-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-19-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21017" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-19-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-19-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> And to the area which appears to have been in the background in my father’s photo of a bollard in the last post: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-20-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-20-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21018" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-20-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-20-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> So the only way to get to the far end was to retreat back to the main entrance of the Excel Centre, and catch the DLR from Custom House to the next stop at Prince Regent. The bridge at Prince Regent Station provides an interesting view of the network of railway lines that can still be found around the Royal Docks. In the following photo, the rail track on the right is the DLR leavoing Prince Regent Station and heading to the Royal Albert Station. The tracks on the left are those of the Elizabeth Line, which are about to enter the Connaught Tunnel, which takes the Elizabeth Line under the docks to Silvertown, where it then enters another tunnel to pass under the Thames. I will cover the Connaught Tunnel later in this post: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-21-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-21-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21019" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-21-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-21-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Because of construction work for phase 3 of the Excel Centre, there was no direct route from Prince Regent Station to the dockside, so I took a slightly longer route via Royal Albert Way, and then via a footpath towards Connaught Bridge, as I wanted to find the building shown in the following photo: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-22.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-22.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21020"/></a></figure> This is the Fox Connaught which advertises that it is a “traditional pub in London’s Royal Docks” – and there are very few of those left. The pub was built in the early 1880s, and was called simply the Connaught. The pub’s website claims that <a href="https://www.foxconnaught.co.uk/about-us" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">“our pub began by serving passengers arriving at the bustling Victoria Docks”</a> however the following is an article from Building News on the 1st of August, 1884 which claims a different first use; “CONNAUGHT TAVERN, ROYAL ALBERT DOCK – This tavern was the first of a group recently built by the London and St. Katherine’s Dock Company, for the accommodation of workmen employed at the New Royal Albert Dock. On account of the nature of the subsoil – which for about 30 feet under the ground level is composed of peat – a secure foundation was obtained by piling. The walls are faced with red bricks and the roofs covered with tiles. The building was erected by Messrs. Perry and Co., Tredegar Works, Bow. Mr. George Vigers is the architect.” The above article is interesting on a number of levels. Firstly it describes the nature of the subsoil, with a 30 foot layer of peat below ground level. This was Plaistow Marsh, and it did complicate the construction of the main dock complex. The article references the Connaught Tavern being built for the accommodation of workmen employed at the new Royal Albert Dock. The number of workmen on the dock would have far exceeded the number that could have been housed in the building, and I would also be surprised if the dock company had built such a quality building for workmen constructing the dock. It may have been built for the more managerial workers, those responsible for the design, engineering and construction of the dock. When the dock was completed, it probably was used, as the tavern’s website states, for passengers arriving at the docks, as well as a growing local population. The walls of the pub have some lovely decoration, including this brick relief of a large sailing ship: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-23-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1687" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-23-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21021" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-23-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-23-300x198.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Walking from the Connaught Tavern, I am back at the Royal Victoria Dock, looking west along the dock with the exhibition centre on the right: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-24-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-24-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21022" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-24-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-24-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Looking down the full length of the dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-25-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-25-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21023" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-25-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-25-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> It is here, at the eastern end of the Royal Victoria Dock, that I cross the channel between the Victoria and Albert Docks. There are a couple of relics from the old docks to be found: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-26-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-26-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21024" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-26-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-26-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Including this round brick structure: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-27-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-27-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21025"/></a></figure> The structure is one of two air vents to the Connaught Tunnel, a tunnel that was built to take the railway underneath the docks, at the point where the Victoria and Albert Docks meet. The Connaught Tunnel is not a bored, deep tunnel, rather a tunnel constructed using the cut and cover technique. It was built in 1878 to take the Stratford to North Woolwich line under the dock. This railway line was George Parker Bidder’s original railway to North Woolwich, built before the Royal Docks, (see the first post on the Royal Docks), and was running to the eat of the Victoria Dock, and was therefore an obstruction to the construction of the Albert Dock. The Dock Extension Committee formed to manage the construction of the Albert Dock, looked at a number of options, including rerouting the railway (this was impossible as the combination of the Victoria and Albert Docks formed a continuous run of water between the Thames in the east and in the west), and also a bridge, but the issues with this option were the number of times that the bridge would need to be opened to allow ships to pass, and difficulties getting the railway company to accept this, as well as the compensation they would almost certainly claim. A tunnel was the only option for rerouting the railway and getting it across the dock complex. The tunnel consists of a cutting on either end with arched buttresses to provide support for the side walls, then the tunnel which was built using a concrete roof. The tunnel is not far below the surface as in 1935, the Connaught Passage – the name of the channel of water between Victoria and Albert Docks, was deepened, requiring the central section of the tunnel which passes below the Connaught Passage to be lowered. When this work was carried out, the central brick lined section was replaced with a steel lining. Air vents were required, as when designed and opened, the railway carried steam trains so a method was needed to vent steam and smoke to the surface. The railway to North Woolwich closed in 2006, and the tunnel fell into disuse. The Connaught Tunnel was a perfect route to get beneath the dock and head to a tunnel to cross below the Thames when Crossrail / the Elizabeth Line was planned. A significant amount of restoration work was required to get the tunnel into a condition that it could be used for the Elizabeth line, but today, if you take the Elizabeth Line to Woolwich, you are travelling along the route of this old tunnel, and crossing underneath the Royal Docks, just below the Connaught Passage. The following OS map from 1951 shows the Connaught Passage, which is the channel between Victoria Dock on the left and Albert Dock on the right. The route of the tunnel is highlighted by twin dashed lines and I have highlighted the location of the two brick air vents with red arrows (Map <a href="https://maps.nls.uk/index.html">‘Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland</a>“): <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-42.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="628" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-42-1024x628.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21042" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-42-1024x628.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-42-300x184.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-42-768x471.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-42-624x383.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-42.jpg 1391w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> The overall height of the air vent, including the sub-surface structure is 14.69m, from the track bed of the railway to the top of the exterior brickwork of the surface air vent. There is a good Crossrail video on the Connaught Tunnel, here: <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/yw-qOaxqnxU?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> And another Crossrail video showing a journey through the Connaught Tunnel in its new role as a route for the Elizabeth Line, here: <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2qvfzYkEIto?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> As well as the two vents to the tunnel, there was a brick pump house on the surface, which contained equipment and a shaft down to where a culvert brought in water from the tunnel, where it was then pumped into the Royal Albert Dock. The pump house has disappeared (this structure, as well as the two air vents are not listed), however there is a new circular structure in (if my memory is right) the same place, so possibly there is still a need to pump water from the tunnel, or possibly Crossrail work waterproofed the tunnel. I will leave the Elizabeth Line running below the surface, and I will cross over the Connaught Passage, between the Albert and Victoria Docks, via the footbridge, which, as the green light demonstrates, has the capability to open, when a ship needs to pass between the two docks. <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-28-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-28-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21026" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-28-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-28-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Looking under the Connaught Road Bridge to the Royal Albert Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-29-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-29-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21027" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-29-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-29-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Looking along the full length of the Royal Victoria Dock from the passage into the Royal Albert: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-30-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-30-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21028" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-30-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-30-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> After crossing the Connaught Passage, I find the second air vent, along with these strange metal vents. No idea of their purpose, and whether they are connected to the Elizabeth Line tunnel below: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-31-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-31-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21029" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-31-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-31-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The Connaught bridge carries the road over the Connaught passage, but I am walking underneath the bridge between the north and south side of the docks: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-33.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-33.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21031"/></a></figure> When looking at the bridge, it is hard to imagine that this large structure is actually a swing bridge, or more accurately, a cable stayed swing bridge. I found the following rather shaky but remarkable video of the swing bridge in operation: <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-4-3 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Tpf-XRJqXVM?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> And by the side of the approach road to the Connaught Bridge, we are also along side London City Airport, and the yellow poles and lighting for the runway approach: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-34-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1646" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-34-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21032"/></a></figure> At the southern end of Connaught Road is a roundabout with the statue “Athena”: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-35.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-35.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21033"/></a></figure> Athena was installed in 2012, and at 12 metres high, is the tallest bronze sculpture in the country. It was the work of Nasser Azam, a contemporary artist based in London. Although there is a road on the roundabout leading into the area to the south of the Royal Victoria Dock, it is fenced off, with no access, as this part of the Royals is still small industrial / derelict land. It is the areas labeled 40 and 39 in the LDDC map at the top of the post. My only route to get back to the dock was to walk down to the North Woolwich Road and follow that for a while before returning to the dock. This is the view to the east whilst walking from the roundabout down to the North Woolwich Road. Part of the Excel exhibition centre can just be seen between the trees on the right, indicating where the dock is located. <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-36-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-36-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21034" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-36-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-36-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> How streets end in this area to the south of the Royal Victoria Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-37-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-37-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21035" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-37-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-37-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> A lucky photo – a British Airways flight taking of from London City Airport next to the Royal Albert Dock, with a higher aircraft turning over east London to join the south London approach to Heathrow airport: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-38.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-38.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21036"/></a></figure> Another dead end: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-39-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-39-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21037" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-39-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-39-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> This whole area to the south of the Royal Victoria Dock (39 and 40 in the LDDC map) is scheduled for significant development over the coming years. The Royal Docks Delivery Plan 2024 – 2029 by the Royal Docks Team, Mayor of London and Newham Council describes this part of the Royal Docks as the 20 hectare site around Pontoon Dock, being developed by the Silvertown Partnership, with a target of over 6,500 new homes. The plan also includes a new curving bridge across the Royal Victoria Dock. This bridge will be slightly above ground level to provide a much easier pedestrian and cycling route across the dock, if you do not want to take the high level bridge, or the lifts are not working (which appears to be almost all the time). The bridge will connect the new Silvertown development around Pontoon Dock with Custom House DLR station. The Royal Docks Delivery Plan is a glossy document of almost 90 pages, but what I find rather depressing about the plan is what appears to be an almost complete lack of any inclusion of the industrial heritage of the place – why the docks are here, what they did, why they were important and the people who worked in the docks. I did a search for the word “heritage” in the document, and there are ten uses of heritage, but they are all rather bland uses such as “We want to unlock the area’s remarkable heritage, landscape, and character to establish a vibrant new waterfront for the city where people can live, work, and thrice for generations to come.” And in the Mayor of London’s Forward: “With its strong transport links and rich heritage, we’re harnessing the Royal Docks unique landscape and character to create a stunning new waterfront for London – a place where people can live, work and thrive for generations to come.” But will there be anything to inform all those people living and working in those future generations of the history of the Royal Docks rather than it just being a rather nice waterfront to drink your expensive coffee alongside? Information panel showing development plans: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-40-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-40-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21038" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-40-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-40-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Walking along the North Woolwich Road, I came to probably one of the most photographed derelict buildings around the Royal Docks (apart from the Millennium Mill). This is Georges Diner: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-41.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2024-41.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-21039"/></a></figure> Georges Diner has been closed and empty for almost 20 years, the business having left the building in 2005. The land is owned by the Greater London Authority, and a list of the GLA’s vacant buildings published in 2015 listed the diner with a statement that it “will form part of the Silvertown Quays project”, and ten years later, the building is still waiting. The diner was well known for serving one of the best fried breakfasts in the area, and was frequented by workers from the surrounding building sites, lorry drivers, utility workers, many attracted not just by the menu on offer, but also by the car / lorry park to the left of the building, which is still there, but fenced off along with the diner. The diner sits on the land in Silvertown planned for development by 2029 in the Royal Docks Delivery Plan 2024 – 2029, so Georges Diner will probably be another part of the Royal Docks heritage consigned to history within the next few years. That is the first part of my walk around the Royal Victoria Dock, and I hope it demonstrates that there is so much to explore around this historic dock. The very few buildings that remain from when the dock was operational, the way the dock is being developed, and the potential for future development.. In the second post, I will complete the walk around the Royal Victoria Dock, with a brief diversion to the Thames Barrier, see a unique industrial site, where a new tunnel is being built, and end at the Royal Victoria DLR station. <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/">alondoninheritance.com</a> <div class="sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled"><div class="robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing"><h3 class="sd-title">Share this:</h3><div class="sd-content"><ul><li class="share-twitter"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-url="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-victoria-dock-in-2024-part-1/" data-text="Royal Victoria Dock in 2024 - Part 1" data-via="VanishedLondon" >Tweet</a></li><li class="share-facebook"><div class="fb-share-button" data-href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-victoria-dock-in-2024-part-1/" data-layout="button_count"></div></li><li><a href="#" class="sharing-anchor sd-button share-more">More</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul><div class="sharing-hidden"><div class="inner" style="display: none;width:150px;"><ul style="background-image:none;"><li class="share-bluesky"><a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" data-shared="sharing-bluesky-21040" class="share-bluesky sd-button" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-victoria-dock-in-2024-part-1/?share=bluesky" target="_blank" title="Click to share on Bluesky" >Bluesky</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div> </div> <footer class="entry-meta"> This entry was posted in <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/london-infrastructure/" rel="category tag">London Infrastructure</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/the-thames/" rel="category tag">The Thames</a> and tagged <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/london-docks/" rel="tag">London Docks</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/royal-docks/" rel="tag">Royal Docks</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/royal-victoria-dock/" rel="tag">Royal Victoria Dock</a> on <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-infrastructure/royal-victoria-dock-in-2024-part-1/" title="6:30 am" rel="bookmark"><time class="entry-date" datetime="2024-10-20T06:30:00+00:00">October 20, 2024</time></a> by <a class="url fn n" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/author/admin/" title="View all posts by admin" rel="author">admin</a>. </footer> </article> <article id="post-20983" class="post-20983 post type-post status-publish format-standard hentry category-london-infrastructure category-the-thames tag-london-docks tag-royal-docks"> <header class="entry-header"> <h1 class="entry-title"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/the-thames/the-royal-docks-victoria-albert-and-george-v/" rel="bookmark">The Royal Docks – Victoria, Albert and George V</a> </h1> <div class="comments-link"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/the-thames/the-royal-docks-victoria-albert-and-george-v/#comments">18 Replies</a> </div> </header> <div class="entry-content"> For this week’s post, and for the next couple of weeks, I am visiting an area of London that I have not touched before in the blog. This is the area covered by Silvertown and North Woolwich, along with the Royal Docks – the Royal Victoria, Royal Albert and King George V Docks, the largest and last docks built in London (although at the time in the County of Essex), that covered a considerable amount of what had been Plaistow Marshes. I am here because it is an interesting area, lots of history, has changed, and is changing after the closure of the docks, and because my father took a number of photos of the Royal Victoria Dock on a visit on Saturday the 11th of July, 1953, and the first photo is looking along the length of the Royal Victoria Dock, showing a large number of ships moored alongside the dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-6-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1637" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-6-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20972"/></a></figure> The rest of my father’s photos are later in the post, but first, a look at the history of the Royal Docks. They can be found on a bend in the river, to the east of the Isle of Dogs, between Bugby’s Reach and Galleons Reach. The dock complex is seven miles from London Bridge. The following map shows the area today (within the red oval), with the majority of the water surface area of the docks still to be found, although there has been some small loses to this space. I have marked the locations of the three component docks that make up the Royal Docks: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-14.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="574" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-14-1024x574.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20980" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-14-1024x574.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-14-300x168.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-14-768x431.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-14-624x350.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-14.jpg 1516w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> The Victoria, Albert and George V are all connected, so they can be considered as one single dock complex, and when the final dock, the King George V was completed, they were the largest sheet of open dock water in the world. Between the westerly entrance to the Victoria Dock and the east entrance to the Albert Dock, is a length of three miles. The three docks were constructed in stages: <ul> <li>The Victoria Dock was first, and opened in 1855:</li> <li>Then came the Albert Dock in 1880, and;</li> <li>The King George V Dock was the final dock, opened in 1921.</li> </ul> As with all the London Docks, from opening to final closure, they were continually modified and upgraded to take account of changing trade flows, cargos, ship sizes and methods of cargo handling. When the Victoria Dock was opened, it was simply known as the Victoria Dock, the Royal was added when the Albert Dock opened, as the company building the dock applied to Queen Victoria for approval to use both the name Albert and add the word Royal to the two docks. The following map shows the Royal Dock complex in the late 1920s: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-13-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="511" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-13-1024x511.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20979" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-13-1024x511.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-13-300x150.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-13-768x383.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-13-1536x766.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-13-2048x1022.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-13-624x311.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> Why were these new, large docks needed? In the mid 19th century, ships were increasing in size, and the first steamers were starting to be used for the transport of goods across the oceans. The volume of trade across the London docks was also expanding rapidly. The existing docks of St. Katherine Docks, London Docks, West India, South and Millwall Docks and the Commercial Docks in Rotherhithe, were all too small to handle the new ships that London would be expected to support to maintain its position as one of the major ports of the world. The first of the Royal Docks, the Victoria Dock opened in 1855, and the following report from the same years provides some background: “NEW VICTORIA DOCKS – To those acquainted with the statistics of the trade of the Port of London, it is notorious that the existing dock accommodation is becoming, year by year, more inadequate to meets its increasing requirements. to supply this want, the Victoria Dock Company purchased a large tract of land in Plaistow Marshes. on the Essex shore of the Thames, below Blackwall. These magnificent docks were commenced in June 1853, and the works have been unceasingly persevered in. A truly English spirit of ‘business’ appears to have directed the operations of all concerned. It was at one time proposed to open the docks sooner; but on a careful review of all contingencies this plan was not adopted. the spacious basins in connection with their quays and warehouses occupy no less than ninety acres of ground, a space far exceeding that of our East India Docks. We may remark here, that the marsh, as far as Gallows Reach, was also purchased by the Company, and will be used as occasion requires. The advantage of situation possessed by these docks is sufficiently obvious, and the immediate neighbourhood of several lines of rail, present unusual facilities for communication with town. The Victoria Docks are announced to be opened on Monday next.” Note that at the time, this whole area was within the County of Essex, and that although it was marsh, the benefit was that there was a very large area of undeveloped land, close to the Thames, and reasonably close to central London. Around 1930, the Port of London Authority published a wonderful little booklet on the Port of London, covering a “brief survey of its history, with an outline of its present facilities and trade”: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-16-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1949" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-16-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20982" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-16-scaled.jpg 1949w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-16-228x300.jpg 228w" sizes="(max-width: 1949px) 100vw, 1949px" /></a></figure> The booklet included the following overview of the combined Royal Docks, and demonstrates the sheer size of the Victoria, Albert and George V docks: <ul> <li>Total area (including land for extension): 1,102.5 acres</li> <li>Water area: 246 acres</li> <li>Length of principal entrance: 800 feet</li> <li>Width of principal entrance: 100 feet</li> <li>Depth of principal entrance below T.H.W. at centre of cill: 45 feet</li> <li>Quayage: 12.75 miles</li> </ul> These docks are in reality one huge dock divided into three sections and form the largest sheet of enclosed dock water in the world. They are 40 miles from the sea and only 5 miles by road from the heart of London. Many vessels belonging to some of the best known Shipping Companies regularly use the Royal Victoria & Albert & King George V. Docks. Frequent cargo and passenger services to all parts of the world are based on these docks and as many as 50 to 60 vessels with a total displacement of about 500,000 tons are sometimes discharging or loading simultaneously in these docks. Vessels bring:- <ul> <li>from AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND – enormous quantities of frozen meat, wool , butter, cheese, fruit, wine and grain;</li> <li>from SOUTH AMERICA – chilled beef and frozen meats, dairy produce, grain, wool and coffee;</li> <li>from AFRICA – grain, wool, skins, tobacco, etc.;</li> <li>from NORTH ATLANTIC PORTS – grain, flour, tobacco, and manufactured articles;</li> <li>from BERMUDA – rum, sugar and fruit;</li> <li>from VANCOUVER AND NORTH AMERICA (PACIFIC COASTS) PORTS – grain, timber, fresh fruit and canned fruit and fish;</li> <li>from CHINA AND JAPAN – silk and cotton goods, soya beans, bamboos, canned salmon, hardwoods, hemp seed, cotton seed, vegetable wax, rapeseed oil, peppermint oil, lacquer-ware, porcelain and glassware, tea, rice, carpets, etc.;</li> <li>from INDIA AND THE STRIATS SETTLEMENTS – tea, rubber, spices, canes, rattans, pineapples, mother-of-pearl shells, gums, carpets, cocoa, desiccated coconuts, shellac, tobacco, hemp, jute, gunnies, yarn and hessian cloth.</li> </ul> A couple of things to notice about all the above imports. With a couple of exceptions, they are all either raw materials or food stuffs. There are very few manufactured goods being imported. At the time, Great Britain was still a major manufacturing centre, one of the largest in the world, and was an exporter of manufactured goods to the world, so whilst the country need to import food and raw materials, exports would have been of manufactured goods. The list also shows how patterns of trade have changed over the last 90 years, as we now import a vast amount of manufactured goods from China and other low cost manufacturing countries in the Far East. The Port of London Authority booklet included the following image, showing why the Port of London was considered such an important centre of trade, just under 100 years ago: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-15-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="878" height="1024" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-15-878x1024.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20981" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-15-878x1024.jpg 878w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-15-257x300.jpg 257w" sizes="(max-width: 878px) 100vw, 878px" /></a></figure> The drive to develop the Victoria Dock came from a number of those engaged on the development of the railways around London. George Parker Bidder was an experienced mid 19th century railway engineer who was working on the Eastern Counties Railway running from London to Southend. He had heard of the idea for building a dock on the Plaistow Marshes from a Mr. Blyth who was the manager of the West India Dock Company, who, perhaps surprisingly, took no action on expanding the West India Dock Company to include new docks to the east. George Bidder joined with Thomas Brassey who was the contractor for the London to Southend railway, and they added another contractor, Samuel Peto, along with Edward Betts, his brother-in-law, and they privately financed a new railway line to run from Stratford to end in a field at North Woolwich. This railway line was known as “Bidders Folly” after George Parker Bidder, as it seemed to serve no purpose. As well as the railway, they started buying up land. Much for as little as £7 per acre, however the Dean and Chapter of Westminster owned some 647 acres, and they held out for £250 per acre, having heard that there was the possibility of a new dock being built. Although the Victoria Dock opened in 1855, it was not until 1858 that it reached it fullest, original extent, and was; <ul> <li>4050 feet in length and included four jetties, 581 feet long and 140 feet wide;</li> <li>There were almost 3 miles of quays;</li> <li>The entrance lock from the Thames was 80 feet wide, 326 feet in length and 28 feet deep.</li> </ul> Building a railway that ended in a field became a major benefit for the new dock, as it provided good transport links with London, and via the Great Northern Railway, gave access to the industrial Midlands towns. The following extract from the 1927 edition of the Railway Clearing House Official Railway Map of London and its Environs shows the railways around the full Royal Docks complex: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-22.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-22.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20992"/></a></figure> When the docks closed, the railways around the docks became the ready made routes for the Docklands Light Railway, so the “Bidders Folly”, the route of the railway that ended in a field, has continued to serve this part of London to this day. As well as the railway, the Victoria Dock benefited from the latest hydraulic machinery which operated equipment around the dock, such as cranes, capstans, lifts etc. as well as the lock gates at the entrance to the dock. to give an indication of the savings this type of machinery could provide, the large lock gates could be opened in 1.5 minutes, compared to between 10 and 20 minutes at the other London docks, and with the hydraulically powered capstans, a single man could do the work of up to 40 men, when hauling in a rope from a ship. All these capabilities put the new Victoria Dock at a considerable advantage to the other London Docks, and as an indication of their immediate success, in April 1858, when the dock was fully operational, 2,500 barges and 508 ships entered the Victoria Dock in a single month. The following photo from Britain from Above shows the Royal Victoria Dock in 1930. The photo is looking to the west, and we can see the western entrance to the Royal Dock complex to and from the Thames. on the right of the dock are the jetties that extended from the dock edge (source: <a href="https://www.britainfromabove.org.uk/image/EPW032928">EPW032928 ENGLAND (1930</a>): <div class="wp-block-image"> <figure class="aligncenter size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/EPW032928.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="580" height="496" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/EPW032928.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20965" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/EPW032928.jpg 580w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/EPW032928-300x257.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px" /></a></figure></div> The Victoria Dock had been built using a large amount of debt, and as is so often the case, there was a financial crash which led to further consolidation of the London docks. A total of £1,076,664 had been borrowed to build the dock, and by 1866 there was still almost £800,000 outstanding on the loan. The financial houses of London had lent considerable sums to fund the railway building boom from the 1840s, and in 1865 the collapse in the Indian cotton market resulted in many of these financial institutions running short of liquidity. The bank lending rate was raised to 10%, and a wave of bankruptcies followed, with Samuel Peto, one of the original contractors involved at the start of the Victoria Dock, being one of the first. Thomas Brassey was left with the liability for the whole of the loan, and being unable to finance the loan, he had to sell the Victoria Dock to the London and St. Katherine Dock Company. This left all the main docks to the north of the river in the hands of just two companies – the London and St. Katherine Dock Company, and the West India Dock Company, and challenges for the West India Dock Company were about to get worse. The following photo shows the full Royal Dock complex in 1946, from the east, looking west. In the distance is the Royal Victoria Dock. To the right is the Royal Albert Dock and on the left is the King George V Dock (source: <a href="https://www.britainfromabove.org.uk/image/EAW000057">EAW000057 ENGLAND (1946</a>): <div class="wp-block-image"> <figure class="aligncenter size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/EAW000057.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="580" height="471" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/EAW000057.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20964" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/EAW000057.jpg 580w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/EAW000057-300x244.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px" /></a></figure></div> By the 1870s, the volume of trade handled by the Victoria Dock had increased considerably, and the size of ship using the London Docks was continuing to increase. The London and St Katherine Dock Company therefore decided to make use of the land to the east of the Victoria Dock to build a new, large dock complex. This was the Royal Albert Dock and was opened on the 24th of June, 1880 by the Duke of Connaught. The lock providing the entrance to a dock was often the limiting factor in the size of ship that could be accommodated. To allow larger ships to use the Royal Albert, the entrance for the new dock was 27 feet deep, compared to 25.5 for the Victoria Dock. The entrance was 550 feet in length and 80 feet wide compared to the Victoria Docks entrance length of 325 feet. In future expansions of the Royal Albert Dock, a second entrance would be added with a greater depth than the original entrance. As well as now being the largest of all docks in London, the Royal Albert Dock was also the first dock to use electricity for lighting, and it was planned that work at the dock would be able to continue by night as well as by day. Another difference with the Royal Albert Dock was in the buildings alongside the dock edge. Rather than storing goods alongside the dock, it was planned that goods would be quickly moved between ship and land, so single storey transit sheds were built to provide a temporary home for goods before they quickly moved on. Queen Victoria gave permission for the use of the name Albert and for adding “Royal” to both the Victoria and Albert Docks, and whilst the opening of the Victoria Dock seems to have been a quiet affair, the opening of the Royal Albert Dock was a very different matter, as described in the following newspaper report from the time: “THE ROYAL ALBERT DOCK – The Duke and Duchess of Connaught, as representing the Queen, was to publicly open to-day the Royal Albert Dock, an extension of the London and Victoria Dock Companies’ works at North Woolwich. For the purpose the Royal party will leave the Speaker’s Stairs at half-past eleven in the steamer Victoria, and Mr. George H. Chambers (Chairman of the Company) and other officials will be in attendance. The visitors will be conveyed down the river in fourteen steamers, and upwards of 8,000 persons will be admitted by ticket to witness the ceremony. At Woolwich the Duke and Duchess and suite will be transferred to the Vestal, which will pass the entrance jetties and enter the lock under a royal salute fired by the 3rd Essex Artillery Volunteers, pass through the basin between the lines of steamers, and the dock under a second royal salute – the bands playing the National Anthem. An address will be presented to the Duke and Duchess of Connaught by the Chairman of the Company, to which the Duke will reply; and he will afterwards name the Victoria Dock, the Royal Victoria Dock, the Victoria Dock extension, the Royal Albert Dock, and the docks as a whole, the Royal Victoria and Albert Docks. A luncheon will follow, and the Royal party will return to and arrive at the Speaker’s Stairs about half-past four.” And since that opening ceremony, the docks have jointly been know as the Royals. It must have been quite a sight seeing 14 steamers coming down the river carrying those attending the ceremony. The Duke of Connaught was Arthur, the seventh child and third son of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The Duchess of Connaught was Princess Louise Margaret of Prussia. The name Connaught can still be found at the Royal Docks as the road bridge that crosses the docks, between the Victoria and the Albert docks is called Connaught Bridge. As with the other London Docks, the Royal Docks were continually evolving to support different trade routes, different types of cargo, improved machinery and transport systems, ways of moving cargo between ship and shore, changes in ship design and size etc. Even during the First World War, upgrades were being made to the docks. New 3 ton electric cranes were installed along with track on the north side of the Albert Dock. An additional 6,000 yards of railway sidings were installed at Victoria Dock. After the First World War, the importation of large quantities of meat from Australia, New Zealand and South America became a new challenge requiring new buildings at the docks. A new cold store was built in 1920, which had two, 3 inch layers o cork to keep the interior refrigerated space cold. A second cold store quickly followed at the west end of Albert Dock. This cold store was of two storeys, 1,100 feet long and 123 feet wide. This addition provided four million cubic feet of capacity, and allowed almost a million carcasses of mutton to be stored. Meat handling facilities were also added to the Royal Victoria Dock. Rather than a cold store, a method of rapidly moving meat from ship to road and rail. This comprised a dedicated berth for the Royal Mail Line who operated a route between London and South America and imported beef into London. 6,000 feet of mechanical runways were installed, along with automated weighing machines, with the runways transporting beef from ship to insulated rail and road transport, ready for delivery across the country. Other additions included two large, modern flour mills built on the south side of the Royal Victoria Dock. One for Joseph Rank Ltd. and the other for William Vernon and Sons Ltd. Both mills had warehouses and silos for storing grain. The flour mills and grain stores can be seen in the upper left cornet of the following photo of the Royal Victoria Dock dated 1937 (source: <a href="https://www.britainfromabove.org.uk/image/EPW055308">EPW055308 ENGLAND (1937)</a>: <div class="wp-block-image"> <figure class="aligncenter size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/EPW055308.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="580" height="478" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/EPW055308.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20966" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/EPW055308.jpg 580w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/EPW055308-300x247.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px" /></a></figure></div> Back to the photos taken by my father on Saturday the 11th of July, 1953, and this was the view along one of the Royal Victoria Dock quaysides. Cranes on rails on the left and transit buildings on the right: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-4.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-4.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20970"/></a></figure> Strangely, there does not seem to be anyone at work in the docks in these photos. It was a Saturday, although I assumed that the docks were 7 days a week operations. It may also be that given the docks were so large, he was in areas where there was no active loading or unloading. Another view along the quayside: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-10.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-10.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20976"/></a></figure> Lighters are moored in the dock to the left, there is a mechanical grab in the foreground which would have been used to unload raw materials from the hold of a ship. A numbers of barrels, presumably waiting for transport, and note the rail on the right which allowed goods wagons to move along the quayside for movement of goods directly between wagon and ship. I believe my father was at the dock as part of a visit organised by the St. Bride Photographic Society, then part of the St. Bride Institute next to the church off Fleet Street, as many of the photos are carefully composed for their artistic quality, rather than just documenting the docks. The following is an example, showing the mooring ropes leading up to the bow of a ship: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-5-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1678" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-5-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20971" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-5-scaled.jpg 1678w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-5-197x300.jpg 197w" sizes="(max-width: 1678px) 100vw, 1678px" /></a></figure> The following photo is very similar, as it focuses on one of the quayside mooring bollards: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-3-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1661" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-3-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20969" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-3-scaled.jpg 1661w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-3-195x300.jpg 195w" sizes="(max-width: 1661px) 100vw, 1661px" /></a></figure> However, the above photo does allow the location to be identified. In the background of the photo there are a number of buildings, and the building on the left has a much taller, small extension projecting above the rest of the building. There is also a ship going in, between the two buildings. In the following extract from one of the Britain from Above photos, we can see these buildings, with the building with the taller extension standing out (on the left of the oval). The ship that can just be seen in the above photo was in the channel that leads from the main Royal Victoria Dock to the much smaller pontoon dock that can also be seen in the following photo: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-21.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="623" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-21-1024x623.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20988" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-21-1024x623.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-21-300x183.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-21-768x467.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-21-624x380.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-21.jpg 1351w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> So my father’s photo of the mooring bollard was taken from the opposite side of the dock, looking across to the buildings on the other side, next to the entrance to the pontoon dock. The above image is dated 1946, and you can see that all the jetties that were part of the Royal Victoria Dock (and seen in the earlier 1937 photo), have now ben removed. These jetties were fairly weak structures, and became difficult to use as ship sizes increased. Goods also needed to be moved along the jetty, between quayside sheds and ship – an inefficient way of operating, so the jetties were removed, and post-war, all ships simply moored alongside the quay. Cranes – photo 1: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-2.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20968"/></a></figure> And crane – photo 2: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-1-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1650" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-1-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20967"/></a></figure> I do not know if the cranes in the following photo were being built or demolished. I suspect they were being built: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-7.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-7.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20973"/></a></figure> In the earlier photo with the mooring bollard, there was a building in the background with a taller extension to a small part of the roof. In the following photo, my father had walked slightly to the east along the northern side of the Royal Victoria Dock, and in the background we can see the eastern end of this building, between two moored ships: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-8-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1644" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-8-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20974"/></a></figure> Bow of a moored ship, with another in the background: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-11-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1642" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-11-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20977" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-11-scaled.jpg 1642w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-11-192x300.jpg 192w" sizes="(max-width: 1642px) 100vw, 1642px" /></a></figure> In the following photo, my father had walked to the southern side of the Royal Victoria Dock, and photographed the area in front of the flour mills and grain stores, with the specialised equipment that unloaded grain from moored ships and transferred to the grain stores: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-12-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1639" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-12-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20978" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-12-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-12-300x192.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> I have highlighted the location of these structures in the following extract from one of the Britain from Above photos, and you can clearly see the two tall structures in front of the grain stores and next to a moored ship: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-20.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="617" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-20-1024x617.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20987" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-20-1024x617.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-20-300x181.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-20-768x463.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-20-624x376.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-20.jpg 1364w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> I assume that these structures used suction to take off the grain from the ship and move to the grain store. Another photo showing more detail: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-9.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-9.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20975"/></a></figure> Not my father’s photos, but a couple of photos that show how goods were handled at the Royal Docks. The first photo is the interior of a transit shed alongside the Royal Albert Dock: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-18-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1633" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-18-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20985" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-18-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-18-300x191.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Whilst the Royal Victoria Dock developed specialised buildings and transport methods for grain, floor and meat, the Royal Albert Dock was a more general dock, handling almost any cargo that needed to be transported to or from a ship. These cargos were not meant to be stored for long at the dock, rather they were quickly sorted and held in a transit shed, then moved to either road or rail transport for onward delivery across the country. The above photo shows the transit shed holding a vast quantity of cargo of different types, in boxes, sacks and rolls. The following photo shows meat being unloaded from a ship to the quayside, where it looks as if it is being put on large trolleys for transfer: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-19-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1735" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-19-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20986" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-19-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Royal-Victoria-Dock-19-300x203.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> That is a quick look at the Royal Docks, and a slightly more detailed look at the Royal Victoria Dock. I have not covered the King George V dock yet, and will cover this in a future post, as well as posts covering a walk around the entire perimeter of the Royal Docks today, and through part of Silvertown to explore more history of this very large dock complex, what is left from when the docks were operational, and how the docks have, and continue to change and develop, for example with the London City Airport. <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/">alondoninheritance.com</a> <div class="sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled"><div class="robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing"><h3 class="sd-title">Share this:</h3><div class="sd-content"><ul><li class="share-twitter"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-url="https://alondoninheritance.com/the-thames/the-royal-docks-victoria-albert-and-george-v/" data-text="The Royal Docks - Victoria, Albert and George V" data-via="VanishedLondon" >Tweet</a></li><li class="share-facebook"><div class="fb-share-button" data-href="https://alondoninheritance.com/the-thames/the-royal-docks-victoria-albert-and-george-v/" data-layout="button_count"></div></li><li><a href="#" class="sharing-anchor sd-button share-more">More</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul><div class="sharing-hidden"><div class="inner" style="display: none;width:150px;"><ul style="background-image:none;"><li class="share-bluesky"><a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" data-shared="sharing-bluesky-20983" class="share-bluesky sd-button" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/the-thames/the-royal-docks-victoria-albert-and-george-v/?share=bluesky" target="_blank" title="Click to share on Bluesky" >Bluesky</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div> </div> <footer class="entry-meta"> This entry was posted in <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/london-infrastructure/" rel="category tag">London Infrastructure</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/the-thames/" rel="category tag">The Thames</a> and tagged <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/london-docks/" rel="tag">London Docks</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/royal-docks/" rel="tag">Royal Docks</a> on <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/the-thames/the-royal-docks-victoria-albert-and-george-v/" title="6:30 am" rel="bookmark"><time class="entry-date" datetime="2024-10-13T06:30:00+00:00">October 13, 2024</time></a> by <a class="url fn n" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/author/admin/" title="View all posts by admin" rel="author">admin</a>. </footer> </article> <article id="post-20948" class="post-20948 post type-post status-publish format-standard hentry category-london-characters category-london-history category-out-of-london tag-admiral-fitzroy tag-greenwich tag-james-glaisher tag-orkney"> <header class="entry-header"> <h1 class="entry-title"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-characters/negretti-zambra-admiral-fitzroy-james-glaisher-from-london-to-orkney-via-greenwich/" rel="bookmark">Negretti & Zambra, Admiral FitzRoy, James Glaisher. From London to Orkney via Greenwich</a> </h1> <div class="comments-link"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-characters/negretti-zambra-admiral-fitzroy-james-glaisher-from-london-to-orkney-via-greenwich/#comments">21 Replies</a> </div> </header> <div class="entry-content"> I have just put up the final dates until next summer for these two walks if you would like to explore these areas with me, using my father’s photos from the late 1940s: <a href="https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/the-south-bank-marsh-industry-culture-and-the-festival-of-britain-tickets-1016866473997">The South Bank – Marsh, Industry, Culture and the Festival of Britain on Sunday 20th of October. Click here to book.</a> <a href="https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/the-lost-streets-of-the-barbican-tickets-1032692610397">The Lost Streets of the Barbican on Saturday the 2nd of November. Click here to book.</a> This post was not in my long list of posts to write. It was a chance discovery that resulted in a fascinating set of connections that led back to London. (I am probably guilty of over using the word fascinating, but I really found this one so interesting). And in a weird coincidence, shortly after, I found a related plaque and tree in London, that I have walked past hundreds of times and never noticed. The story starts in early September, when we were in Orkney for a few days, the cluster of islands off the north coast of Scotland. Orkney has long been somewhere we have wanted to visit – Neolithic stone circles, henges and standing stones, a Neolithic village older than Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids, lots of walking and a stunning coast. We had taken the ferry from Scrabster on the coast of the Scottish mainland, over the Pentland Firth and arrived at Stromness, the second largest town in Orkney. At this point, London seemed a very distant place, and London and the blog were not on my mind. Walking along the street that runs the length of the older part of Stromness, we reached a slightly wider open space in front of Stromness Parish Church: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-1-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-1-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20932" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-1-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-1-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> And on the left as you looked at the church there was a large, rectangular white box: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-2-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-2-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20933" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-2-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-2-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The box held a barometer and thermometer of some age: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-3-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1700" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-3-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20934" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-3-scaled.jpg 1700w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-3-199x300.jpg 199w" sizes="(max-width: 1700px) 100vw, 1700px" /></a></figure> And this is where the London connection comes in as the instrument was made by the scientific instrument company of Negretti & Zambra who were based in London. In 1864 Negretti & Zambra published a little book with the title of “A Treatise on Metrological Instruments”, and the book included details of the type of instrument installed at Stromness in Orkney, as one of their public barometers: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-17-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="802" height="1024" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-17-802x1024.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20950" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-17-802x1024.jpg 802w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-17-235x300.jpg 235w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-17-768x981.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-17-1203x1536.jpg 1203w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-17-scaled.jpg 2004w" sizes="(max-width: 802px) 100vw, 802px" /></a></figure> The barometer in Stromness was one of Negretti & Zambra’s Fishery or Sea-coast Barometers, and the book included the following description of the instrument, which is shown to the left of the above page from the book: “The frame is of solid oak, firmly secured together. The scales are very legibly engraved on porcelain by Negretti and Zambra’s patent process. The thermometer is large, and easily read; and as this instrument is exposed, it will indicate the actual temperature sufficiently for practical purposes. The barometer tube is three-tenths of an inch in diameter of bore, exhibiting a good column of mercury; and the cistern is of such capacity, in relation to the tube, that the change of height in the surface of the mercury in the cistern corresponding to a change of height of three inches of mercury in the tube, is less than one-hundredth of an inch, and therefore, as the readings are only to be made to this degree of accuracy, this small error is of not importance. The cistern is made of boxwood, which is sufficiently porous to allow the atmosphere to influence the mercurial column; but the top is plugged with porous cane, to admit of free and certain play.” Detail of the scale at the top of the column of mercury, which is in the glass tube in the middle: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-4-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1700" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-4-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20935" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-4-scaled.jpg 1700w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-4-199x300.jpg 199w" sizes="(max-width: 1700px) 100vw, 1700px" /></a></figure> The scales either side are marked with the height of the mercury column in inches of mercury – the way in which atmospheric pressure was, and still is, measured (although millimeters and millibars are also used instead of inches). On the left are the forecast weather conditions for the height of mercury if the height of the column of mercury is rising, and on the right are the expected weather conditions for a falling column of mercury. At the very top of the scale we can see the names of Negretti & Zambra as the manufacturers of the device, and on the right we can see their locations; 1 Hatton Garden, 122 Regent Street and 59 Cornhill, so this is a company with a considerable London heritage. The top of the scale in more detail is shown below: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-5.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="591" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-5-1024x591.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20936" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-5-1024x591.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-5-300x173.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-5-768x443.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-5-1536x886.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-5-624x360.jpg 624w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-5.jpg 1574w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> The company of Negretti & Zambra was founded in 1850 by Enrico Negretti and Joseph Zambra. Enrico Negretti (who also used the first name of Henry) was an Italian, born in 1818, and who had emigrated to London at the age of 10. In London, he served an apprenticeship as a glassblower and thermometer maker. Joseph Zambra was born in Saffron Walden in Essex in 1822, and also had Italian heritage as his father had emigrated from Como. Zambra learnt the skills he would later use in their company as his father was an optician and barometer maker. Zambra moved from Saffron Walden to London in 1840, living within the Anglo-Italian community which was based around Leather Lane in Holborn, and it was here that he met Negretti, and with complimentary skills, they decided to go into partnership to form the firm of Negretti & Zambra on the 23rd of April, 1850, and operating from 11 Hatton Garden, where they specialised in the manufacture of barometers and thermometers. Whilst they did make and sell barometers for home use, their reputation came from the design and manufacture of barometers and thermometers with an accuracy, ease of use, and robustness, that could be used in very difficult locations, and for measuring temperature and pressure where they had not been measured before, for example by taking deep sea temperature measurements. They held a number of patents in both the design and manufacture of instruments, and they were the only English manufacturers to win a medal at the 1851 Great Exhibition and as recorded at the top of the scale on the Orkney barometer, they were appointed opticians and scientific instrument makers to Queen Victoria. The range of instruments manufactured by the company expanded rapidly, and their 1864 Treatise on Metrological Instruments includes a catalogues of instruments for the home, for portable use , for use up mountains, marine barometers, storm glasses, botanical thermometers, brewers thermometers, instruments to measure humidity, instruments to measure the amount of rainfall, and others to measure steam pressure and to measure pressure in a vacuum. Their catalogue included a drawing of their three central London locations at Cornhill in the City, Hatton Garden / Holborn Viaduct, and Regent Street: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-7.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="900" height="608" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-7.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20938" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-7.jpg 900w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-7-300x203.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-7-768x519.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-7-624x422.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px" /></a></figure> So the Stromness, Orkney barometer was made in London, but why is it there? This is where Vice-Admiral FitzRoy, the next name comes into the story. Robert FitzRoy was born on the 5th of July, 1805 in Ampton, Suffolk and he had a very wide ranging career, being an officer in the Royal Navy, a Governor of New Zealand, and was interested in scientific matters, particularly the weather and the storms that were so dangerous to travelers on the sea. He was the Captain of HMS Beagle, when Charles Darwin was onboard on their almost five year voyage around the world between 1831 and 1836. FitzRoy became a member of the Royal Society in 1851, and three years later was appointed as the head of a new organisation within the Board of Trade that was tasked with the collection of weather data from ships at sea and coastal ports. This would evolve into what we know today at the Met Office. Weather data was important, as in the middle of the 19th century there was no systematic method of weather data collection from across the country and also no weather forecasting. Whilst this was a relatively small problem for those on land, it could often be a matter of life and death for those at sea, and there were numerous ship wrecks and deaths as a result of storms that hit without any warning. An example from 1858 in the Inverness Chronicle covering the waters around Orkney shows the impact: “MELANCHOLY LOSS OF SIX MEN – Early last month the herring-fishing boat Margaret, of Tonque, in the parish of Lewis, after prosecuting the herring fishing here, left for home, in company with hundreds of others, which were overtaken by a heavy gale of north-easterly wind soon after passing through the Pentland Firth. the boats fled in all directions, where there was the shadow of a chance of shelter. Many reached the lochs of the west coast of Sutherland; one reached Skaill Bay, in Orkney; one crew was picked up by an American vessel and landed here, their boat being subsequently found and taken to Stornoway. meanwhile, intelligence of the safe arrival of the Lewis crews, with the exception of that referred to, has reached; and the appearance of a portion of the wreck of their boat, driven ashore at Birsay, in Orkney, leaves no room to doubt their sad fate. When last seen the boat was about ten miles off Cape Wreath, making for the Minch of Lews, on the evening of Friday the 10th, when other boats in their company was parted from them by the violence of the storm.” FitzRoy wanted to make weather information, including some indication of the forecast weather, available for fishermen, such as those in the above article, and for shipping in general. His scheme was to distribute barometers to fishing communities and coastal villages around the country, and Negretti and Zambra were responsible for the manufacture of the barometers. According to the Treatise on Metrological Instruments by Negretti and Zambia, FitzRoy was responsible for the wording on the barometer scale, with the predictions for weather based on whether the column of mercury was rising or falling and the height of the column. Fitzroy’s wording can be seen on the Orkney barometer. Barometers were loaned free of charge to poor fishing communities, or were funded by a wealthy local, or through voluntary donations. This last method was used for the barometer in Orkney, which is recorded at the very top of the instrument, which can just be seen in one of the photos earlier in the post. The barometer was sent from London to Orkney on the 27th of October 1869, and it was number 98 in the chain of barometers around the coast. The first barometers in the network seem to have been sent to their coastal location in early 1861, and the network expanded rapidly over the coming years. The arrival of the barometer was recorded in the Orcadian newspaper on the 20th of November 1869: “BAROMETER – The barometer, which we mentioned last week was to be sent here for the guidance of fishermen and others, has arrived; but as yet no suitable site has been obtained for its erection. The barometer is the gift of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution, and was consigned to their honorary secretary here – Mr. James R. Garriock – in whose shop window it is now on view. A register of its indications is, we understand, to be kept, and will be exhibited alongside the instrument. In front of the barometer is a thermometer.” The Stromness, Orkney barometer was installed a couple of years after FitzRoy’s death, but became part of FitzRoy’s initial barometer network, where readings of the barometer were telegraphed back to Fitzroy’s Meteorological Office in London, where the collection of data was used to put out rudimentary weather forecasts. These first forecasts were very basic, for example the following is from the Yorkshire Gazette on the 13th of February, 1864 – one of the first forecasts sent out from London: “WEATHER FORECAST – Admiral Fitzroy telegraphs that a gale may be expected, most probably from the southward.” A very simple, but very valuable forecast if you were a fisherman. In the 1860s, problems within the Meteorological Office, and the many challenges with other organisations and users of the forecasting service (for example as the forecast came from the Met Office which was part of the Board of Trade, a Government department, it was seen to be an official pronouncement and therefore subject to far more criticism and challenge than a local forecast). FitzRoy also had financial problems and suffered from depression. Possibly due to all these pressures, Robert FitzRoy took his own life on the 30th of April, 1865. There were many, long obituaries in the newspapers of the time, with the following being typical of the first few sentences: “ADMIRAL FITZROY – The public have lost a valuable servant and humanity a friend, unwearied in his efforts to save life, in the death of Admiral Robert FitzRoy, the head of the Meteorological department of the Board of Trade, who committed suicide on Sunday morning. The sad event took place at Lyndhurst House, Norwood, Surrey. The unfortunate gentleman had been for several days in a very low state; but nothing in particular was apprehended by his fronds, who considered the marked change in his manners owing to over study, and this, no doubt, has been the cause of the catastrophe.” Robert Fitzroy’s legacy was the Met Office, that is still responsible for providing weather forecasts today, along with the few remaining barometers he designed and were installed in fishing and coastal villages around the British Isles, such as the one in Stromness, Orkney. Negretti and Zambra continued to capitalise on their relationship with Robert FitzRoy, and the barometers that they had produced for him, after his death. Thomas Babington took over the Meteorological Office after FitzRoy’s death, and wrote to Negretti and Zambra, complaining that their advertising was implying that all barometers used by Fitzroy were made by Negretti and Zambra and that they were using the “absurd title of storm barometer”, which implied that their barometers had an ability to predict storms. Babington’s letter does not seem to have changed Negretti and Zambra’s marketing strategy, as they continued advertising in much the same way as before. Vice-Admiral Robert FitzRoy: <div class="wp-block-image"> <figure class="aligncenter size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/RobertFitzroy_sm.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="394" height="500" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/RobertFitzroy_sm.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20931" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/RobertFitzroy_sm.jpg 394w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/RobertFitzroy_sm-236x300.jpg 236w" sizes="(max-width: 394px) 100vw, 394px" /></a></figure></div> There is one other name I need to track down, along with the connection to Greenwich. On the body of the Stromness barometer is the following label: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-6.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-6.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20937"/></a></figure> The statement that the barometer reads correctly with Greenwich Standard was signed by James Glaister, F.R.S. Firstly why Greenwich? If you were distributing a network of barometers around the country and receiving their readings centrally in London, and making forecasts based on these readings, it was essential that you could trust the reading from each barometer, and that they were correctly calibrated, so that if they were all in the same place, they would all have the same reading. This is where Greenwich came in to the process. the Royal Observatory at Greenwich is well known for its astronomical work, but the institution was also responsible for many other scientific activities, and one of the departments at the Royal Observatory was the Department of Meteorology and Magnetism, and James Glaister was the Superintendent of this department for 34 years, including the period when the barometers were being dispatched across the country. I assume the process must have been that they were manufactured by Negretti & Sambra in central London, then sent to the Royal Observatory at Greenwich, where they were calibrated and checked against a standard barometer reading at the observatory. The label with James Glaisher’s signature was then attached, and the barometer shipped to the coastal location where it was to be installed. James Glaisher was a fascinating character. Born in Rotherhithe on the 7th of April 1809, the son of a watchmaker which probably contributed to his interest in scientific instruments. The family moved from Rotherhithe to Greenwich, and Glaisher’s first experience of the Royal Observatory came from a visit when he was aged 20. His first job was working on the principal triangulation of the Ordnance Survey in Ireland. This was the process of measuring distances and heights, essential to producing accurate maps. After this he worked at the Cambridge University observatory, under Professor George Airy, who would become Astronomer Royal at Greenwich in June 1835, and Airy bought Glaisher from Cambridge to Greenwich and the two continued to work together. In 1838 Airy put Glaisher in charge of the new magnetic and meteorological department which Airy had established at Greenwich, and he would work in this role for almost 40 years. One part of his new role was making and managing the recording of meteorological observations, and he was also responsible for ensuring the accuracy of the instruments used, and by 1850 he was the recognized authority in the country for the verification of meteorological instruments, which is why his name is on the barometer in Stromness, Orkney. He was one of the founders of the British Meteorological Society, and was elected as the society’s first secretary. James Glaisher: <div class="wp-block-image"> <figure class="aligncenter size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/James-Glaisher.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="499" height="800" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/James-Glaisher.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20930" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/James-Glaisher.jpg 499w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/James-Glaisher-187x300.jpg 187w" sizes="(max-width: 499px) 100vw, 499px" /></a></figure></div> <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw128207/James-Glaisher?search=sp&sText=james+glaisher&rNo=3&_gl=1*1ynuv0l*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTI3NDg5NDc0OS4xNzI3OTY3MjYw*_ga_3D53N72CHJ*MTcyNzk2NzI1OS4xLjEuMTcyNzk2NzI3NC4wLjAuMA..">James Glaisher by Samuel Alexander Walker. albumen carte-de-visite, 1860s NPG x22544© National Portrait Gallery, London</a> Although Glaisher’s work at the Greenwich Royal Observatory was important, and contributed considerably to the measurement and observations of the weather, and in the type and accuracy of the instruments used, to the general public he was best known for his ballooning exploits. These were carried out under the auspices of the British Association for the Advancement of Science, with the intention of making observations and measurements at high altitudes. The following is a report from the 18th of April, 1902 on James Glaisher’s 93rd birthday, and covers his ballooning exploits in some hair raising detail: “SEVEN MILES IN THE AIR – NONAGENARIAN BALLOONIST’S REMARKABLE RECORD. Mr. James Glaisher, F.R.A.S, who made the highest balloon ascent ever recorded, has just celebrated his 93rd anniversary of his birthday. Mr. Glaisher will be remembered by the world’s scientists as the father of meteorology in England. He founded the Royal Meteorological Society in 1850, and from 1841 until the present time has supplied the quarterly and annual meteorological reports published by the Registrar-General. Now he thinks it is time he handed over the task to another. It was on September 5, 1862 that Mr. Glaisher, accompanied by Mr. Coxwell, a dentist and aeronaut, made the most famous of his balloon ascents. ‘I was a married man’ he said in the course of a conversation the other day, ‘and I did not think a married man ought to go ballooning, but I found that I must go up myself if I wanted observations properly taken, so I took to ballooning and made 29 ascents. The September ascent was from Wolverhampton. The balloon soared up above the clouds and Mr. Glaisher, as was his custom, kept his eyes on his instruments and his notebooks until he recorded a height of 28,000ft. Then he found that he had lost the use of his limbs, and he saw Mr. Coxwell climb up to the ring and try to seize the valve rope, but Mr. Coxwell’s hands were so benumbed that he could not use them. He seized the valve-rope in his teeth and thus tugged the valve open. Meanwhile Mr. Glaisher had fallen unconscious, with his head over the side of the car. He was unconscious for 13 minutes, and when he recovered, the balloon, which had been going up at a rate of 1000ft a minute, was descending at the rate of 2000ft a minute. During the interval it is calculated that the balloon rose to a height of over seven miles. Another of Mr. Glaisher’s adventures happened at Newhaven. While he and Mr. Coxwell were high up the clouds parted, and they found themselves all but over the sea. Mr. Coxwell hung on to the valve-rope so long that the balloon lost all its gas, and fell two or three thousand feet to the earth. The car and the instruments were smashed, but the balloonists escaped with slight injuries.” The wonderfully described “Mr. Coxwell, a dentist and aeronaut” was Henry Coxwell, who, as well as being a dentist was a professional balloonist and Glaisher partnered with Coxwell so he could takes scientific measurements during the ascent which Coxwell controlled. Coxwell made a number of ascents across London, many for show, including from Cremorne Gardens (Chelsea), Woolwich and Mile End Road. The Wolverhampton ascent is remarkable. Most commercial jet airliners will travel at somewhere between 5.5 and 7 miles at their cruising altitude. Just imagine looking out of an airliner’s windows at that height and seeing two Victorian balloonists in their wicker basket. James Glaisher and Henry Coxwell illustrated in their balloon: <div class="wp-block-image"> <figure class="aligncenter size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/James-Glaisher-Henry-Tracey-Coxwell.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="507" height="800" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/James-Glaisher-Henry-Tracey-Coxwell.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20953" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/James-Glaisher-Henry-Tracey-Coxwell.jpg 507w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/James-Glaisher-Henry-Tracey-Coxwell-190x300.jpg 190w" sizes="(max-width: 507px) 100vw, 507px" /></a></figure></div> <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw14645/James-Glaisher-Henry-Tracey-Coxwell?search=sp&sText=james+glaisher&rNo=4&_gl=1*1ynuv0l*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTI3NDg5NDc0OS4xNzI3OTY3MjYw*_ga_3D53N72CHJ*MTcyNzk2NzI1OS4xLjEuMTcyNzk2NzI3NC4wLjAuMA..">James Glaisher; Henry Tracey Coxwell by Negretti & Zambra albumen carte-de-visite, late 1862 3 1/2 in. x 2 1/2 in. (90 mm x 62 mm) Given by John Herbert Dudley Ryder, 5th Earl of Harrowby, 1957 Photographs Collection NPG x22561</a> Surprisingly, both Glaisher and Coxwell both lived a long life, and both died peacefully, rather than in a balloonoing accident. James Glaisher lived to the age of 93 and Henry Coxwell reached the age of 80. The 2019 film The Aeronauts was based on Glaisher and Coxwell’s highest ascent, with Eddie Redmayne playing James Glaisher, however Henry Coxwell was completely left out of the film, with the character of the balloon’s pilot being Amelia Wren, played by Felicity Jones. <h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Great Storm of 1987</h2> Robert Fitzroy founded the Met Office in 1854, and began the process of gradually producing more and more accurate weather forecasts. By a rather strange coincidence, soon after returning from Scotland, I was walking past Charing Cross Station, somewhere I have walked hundreds of times, and noticed for the first time, a couple of plaques on one of the pillars outside the station which record one of the most dramatic weather events for a very long time. They also remind us how over 100 years after the founding of the Met Office, forecasting was still difficult: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-9-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1715" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-9-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20940" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-9-scaled.jpg 1715w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-9-201x300.jpg 201w" sizes="(max-width: 1715px) 100vw, 1715px" /></a></figure> The top plaque records the “Great Storm” that struck south east England in the early hours of Friday the 16th of October 1987, and that in “four violent hours London lost 250,000 trees”: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-10.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="750" height="1021" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-10.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20941" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-10.jpg 750w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-10-220x300.jpg 220w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-10-624x849.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px" /></a></figure> I well remember that storm. I got home late that evening after a leaving do for a work colleague at, if I remember rightly, the Punch & Judy in Covent Garden, and it seemed to be getting very windy. Overnight, the chimney on our house came apart, brick by brick, but luckily no further structural damage. After the storm, Angus McGill of the Evening Standard launched an appeal to replace many of London’s lost trees (McGill is commemorated on the lower plaque), and the oak tree at the eastern edge of the station boundary is one of the trees planted as a result of the appeal. The tree is in the photograph below, and the two plaques are on the left hand pillar behind the tree: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-8-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1671" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-8-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20939" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-8-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-8-300x196.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Well over 100 years after Fitzroy founded the Meteorological Office, in 1987, forecasting the weather was still a challenge, and Michael Fish’s forecast on the Thursday before the storm has become somewhat infamous as an example of getting a forecast wrong (in reality, high winds were forecast, but the storm tracked slightly further to the north and was a deeper low than had been forecast): <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/NnxjZ-aFkjs?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> <h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Orkney Islands</h2> The Orkney Islands are really rich in history and natural landscapes. Probably best known for Scapa Flow, the large, sheltered body of water between the islands, where the German Navy High Seas Fleet was scuttled in the First World War, and used by the British Navy of the First and Second World Wars as a Naval Base, there is much else to discover. Some examples; <h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Italian Chapel </h2> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-11-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-11-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20942" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-11-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-11-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> We left Kirkwall in bright sunshine and after a short drive to the chapel found ourselves in thick fog. The Italian Chapel was built by Italian prisoners of war during the Second World War, who were based on the main Orkney island, and were used to build the causeways between the main island and South Ronaldsway. The chapel was mainly built and decorated using concrete, one of the few available materials at the time, and is really remarkable: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-12-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1701" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-12-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20943" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-12-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-12-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> <h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Standing Stones of Stenness:</h2> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-13-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-13-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20944" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-13-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-13-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> Four upright stones of an original twelve, that date back over 5,000 years. <h2 class="wp-block-heading">Ring of Brodgar:</h2> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-14-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-14-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20945" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-14-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-14-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> A 5,000 year old stone circle, originally of 60 stones, with 36 surviving today, and at least 13 prehistoric burial mounds. <h2 class="wp-block-heading">Skara Brae Prehistoric Village:</h2> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-15.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-15.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20946"/></a></figure> A remarkable, 5,000 year old Neolithic settlement, first uncovered by a storm in 1850 when part of the site was revealed when some of the sand dunes that had been covering the settlement for centuries were blown away. A number of the individual houses still have some of their stone furniture in place. <h2 class="wp-block-heading">Brough of Birsay:</h2> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-16-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-16-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20947" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-16-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-16-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> A tidal island, reached when the tides are right, across a causeway. The island has Pictish, Norse and Medieval remains. Leaving Stromness (where the barometer is located), on the ferry to the Scottish mainland: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-18-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-18-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20960" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-18-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Stromness-Fisheries-Barometer-18-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The Stromness barometer is number 98 of around 100 barometers installed around the coast by Robert FitzRoy’s project. It continued to be read until 2005, and was restored in 2014 using funding from the Townscape Heritage Initiative. Stromness library includes a book about FitzRoy and his barometers, as well as the operators manual for the barometer. Whilst the barometer aims to forecast the weather, it also tells a fascinating story of the mid-19th century, with Negretti and Zambra being London’s foremost scientific instrument makers. Vice-Admiral Robert FitzRoy founding the Met office, as part of the Board of Trade, and James Glaisher, who ran the Meteorological and Magnetic Department of the Royal Observatory at Greenwich, and who was a daring balloonist in his quest to measure temperature, pressure etc. of the atmousphere. I know I overuse the word, but this is a really fascinating story, of which I have just scratched the surface. <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/">alondoninheritance.com</a> <div class="sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled"><div class="robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing"><h3 class="sd-title">Share this:</h3><div class="sd-content"><ul><li class="share-twitter"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-url="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-characters/negretti-zambra-admiral-fitzroy-james-glaisher-from-london-to-orkney-via-greenwich/" data-text="Negretti & Zambra, Admiral FitzRoy, James Glaisher. 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Click here for details and booking.</a> The following photo is from 1984 and shows one of the many Blue Coat figures which can be seen on surviving charity school buildings from the late 17th and 18th centuries across London: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-1-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1719" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-1-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20912" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-1-scaled.jpg 1719w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-1-201x300.jpg 201w" sizes="(max-width: 1719px) 100vw, 1719px" /></a></figure> Forty years later, the statue is still there, looking good and has obviously been restored since the 1984 photo: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-6-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1910" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-6-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20917" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-6-scaled.jpg 1910w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-6-224x300.jpg 224w" sizes="(max-width: 1910px) 100vw, 1910px" /></a></figure> The figure is on the building that was once a Bluecoat School in Caxton Street, Westminster, and as recorded on the plaque in the above photo, the building dates from 1709. The figure in the above two photos is on the front of the building, however most first views of the old school are probably of the rear and side of the building, seen as you walk along Buckingham Gate. I was walking from Victoria Street along Buckingham Gate, so this was my first view of the building: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-2.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-2.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20913"/></a></figure> Although the surroundings have changed beyond all recognition, the building itself has hardly changed, as can be seen in the following print of the rear of the school, from 1850: <figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-9.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="851" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-9-1024x851.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20920" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-9-1024x851.jpg 1024w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-9-300x249.jpg 300w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-9-768x638.jpg 768w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-9-1536x1276.jpg 1536w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-9-2048x1701.jpg 2048w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-9-624x518.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a></figure> Image: © The Trustees of the British Museum. Shared under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0) licence</a>. In the above print, the school appears to have had railings and a wall surrounding its boundary, and also had a grassed area to the rear – possibly a small open space for the children of the school. Today, this is paved over: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-3-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1948" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-3-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20914"/></a></figure> The plaque on the first two photos of the front of the school dates the building to 1709, however the school was founded 21 years earlier in 1688 at the expense of “Divers well disposed persons Inhabitants of ye Parish of St. Margaret Westminster”. The aim of the school was to teach the children of the poor the doctrines of the Church of England, and enable them to move on to an apprenticeship, or to gain an occupation. As well as a limited form of education, children at the school were also given some degree of medical care, as in 1835, in a listing of physicians at the Royal Metropolitan Infirmary for Sick Children in Broad Street, Golden Square, a Mr. George S. Lilburn, M.D. was also listed as a “Physician to the Bluecoat School, Westminster”. The school must have been successful in its first 21 years as the new school building was constructed in 1709 on land leased from the Dean and Chapter of Westminster Abbey, and funded by William Greene, a local brewer who paid for the school.. The interior of the building was simple, with a single school room above a basement. the exterior of the building was off brick, and was described as being of in a similar style to William Greene’s brewery. Attendance at the school was initially for 20 boys who would be educated and clothed for free. The clothing was of the style shown on the figures around the building. As well as being the children of the poor, the parents or grandparents of the children would also have had to have lived in the parish of St. Margaret’s or St. John’s for at least a year. A girls school appears to have been added not long after the new boys school was completed, as donations were being raised for a girls school of 20 pupils between 1713 and 1714. Nothing today exists of the girls school, however recent research suggests that the girls school was located on the western side of the paved area at the rear of the boys school. There were other buildings associated with the school that have been lost, including a headmaster’s house, so the single building we see today was part of a cluster of buildings forming a school for boys and girls. The school was founded in 1688, and whilst this is just a date on a stone block on the school building, it is interesting to consider the state of the country when the school was founded, as both the charity and building did not exist in isolation. They were partly in response to what was happening in the country at the time. The school was founded not long after the English Civil War (1642 to 1648), execution of Charles I (1649), the Commonwealth (1649 to 1660), restoration of the Monarchy with Charles II (1660), the Great Fire of London (1666), the reign of William and Mary (William III, 1689 to 1702), to prevent a Catholic succession after the death of James II, so the preceding 46 years had been one of considerable change, and the school was founded in the same year that James II’s wife, Mary of Moderna, gave birth to a son, James Francis Edward Stuart, who was next in line to the throne and would perpetuate a pro-Catholic approach by the English Crown. The following is from the London Sun on Saturday the 29th of June, 1844, and announces a meeting where the audience will be asked for funds to support the Blue Coat school charity, and the article also provides some background as to the worries in the country when the school was founded, and concerns about the religious education of the young at such as time: “BLUE-COAT SCHOOL, WESTMINSTER – The Rev. Dr. Colls will advocate the claims of the charity next Sunday morning at St. Peter’s Episcopal Chapel, Queen-square, St. James’s Park, in compliance with the particular request of a large body of Governors of that institution. It may not, perhaps, be generally known that the Westminster Blue-coat School was the first of the kind in England, having been founded in the year 1688. a few months previous to the landing of King William, while this country was in a ferment at the impending danger to the Church and Constitution. A few persons, grieved at the state of ignorance and irreligion in which the rising generation were then growing up, determined to make an effort to ground them thoroughly in the doctrines and the duties of the Christian religion, considering that this was the only effectual way to preserve the young from the sophistry of the infidel and the contamination of the profane. In the choice of their advocate on the present occasion, the Governors of the charity have been fortunate, since the Rev. Dr. Colls is himself a practical example of the benefit and the blessing of early religious principles; and we hope he will be successful in opening the hands and hearts of his audience next Sunday morning in favour of the excellent charity.” The plaque on the school building recording the original founding date of the school, one year before William and Mary landed from the Netherlands, and the “Glorious Revolution”: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-4-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1948" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-4-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20915" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-4-scaled.jpg 1948w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-4-228x300.jpg 228w" sizes="(max-width: 1948px) 100vw, 1948px" /></a></figure> The location of the church can be seen in the following map. the front of the school faces onto Caxton Street which has long been the official address of the school, and the western side is next to Buckingham Gate, with Victoria Street running left to right across the centre of the map  (<a href="https://www.openstreetmap.org/copyright">© OpenStreetMap contributors)</a>: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="669" height="764" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20911" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-.jpg 669w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School--263x300.jpg 263w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School--624x713.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 669px) 100vw, 669px" /></a></figure> Roughly 35 years after the new school building was constructed, Rocque’s map of 1746 shows the school (within the red circle), facing onto Chapel Street (the old name for Caxton Street), and alongside Horse Ferry Road (the old name for Buckingham Gate). Victoria Street will cut across the map in the mid 19th century: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-8.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="639" height="851" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-8.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20919" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-8.jpg 639w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-8-225x300.jpg 225w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-8-624x831.jpg 624w" sizes="(max-width: 639px) 100vw, 639px" /></a></figure> What is interesting about the above map is the number of charity schools in the area, each with their own different coloured coat. I have marked the Green Coat School with the green circle and the Gray Coat School in the orange circle (a grey circle did not stand out well on the map). The blue colour for the coats of the Blue Coast School seems to have been in use by 1700, when the uniform for the school was decided, and blue was chosen as “the most convenient colour would be Blew, being different from the other schools in the parish”. When children went to, or left the charity schools in this small area, it must have been a scene of some colour with blue, green and grey coats being worn on the streets. Also on the map, to the right of the Blue Coat School there is St. Margaret’s Burying Ground, showing an open space with a small chapel. The reference to the original founding of the school quoted earlier in the post states is was through “Divers well disposed persons Inhabitants of ye Parish of St. Margaret Westminster“. St. Margaret’s was (and still is) the smaller church that is within the grounds of Westminster Abbey, in the north east corner, next to Parliament Square. The burying ground shown on the map was St. Margaret’s extra space for burials. Part of this burying ground can still be found, the small, open space alongside Victoria Street, now known as Christchurch Gardens, which occupies roughly the middle third of the original burying grounds. The lower third is under Victoria Street and the upper third long built over. The remains of the burying ground today: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-10.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-10.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20925"/></a></figure> There were a number of Blue Coat Schools across London, and there seems to have been some competition, or confusion as to which school was founded first. The following letter is from the Morning Herald on the 27th of July, 1830, and is in response to a previous comment about the schools of St. Botolph, Aldgate being older than the school facing Caxton Street:: “Sir, – In the Morning Herald of yesterday I observed a notice of a sermon for the charity schools of St. Botolph, Aldgate, it was appended a statement that these schools were the earliest of the kind instigated. I should be extremely sorry to say one word which might be injurious to so excellent an institution, but justice to another admirable establishment compels me to deny the truth of the statement that the first charity school was established at St. Botolph. The Blue-Coat School, Westminster, is beyond doubt the earliest of these institutions, having been established in the year 1688. Having been lately called upon to preach for that excellent charity I was led to investigate the matter, and obtained the following results:- The Blue Coat, Westminster, was established in 1688; a school in Norton Folgate in 1691, and that of St. Botolph, Aldgate, in 1697. In 1704 the number of schools had so increased that a general meeting of the children was held in St. Andrew’s Church, the number being about 2,000; the sermon was preached by Dr. Weller, Dean of Lincoln. In 1716 the number of schools in London and Westminster was 124; the number of children 4,896; the entire number of schools in Great Britain and Ireland was1,239; the number of children 24,941; the greater part established within about 20 years. To several of the early printed reports is attached the following note, (I copy from the sermon and report for 1716):- ‘All schools above mentioned have been set-up since 1697, except that belonging to the New Church in St. Margaret, Westminster, by the name of the Blue Coat School, which was set up Lady-day, 1688, for 50 boys, and the school of Norton-Folgate, erected in 1691, for 60 boys’. I conclude with repeating that I have no wish to detract from the merits of St. Botolph’s school, but its friends have no right to claim for it that honour which so clearly belongs to another. I am, sir, your obedient servant, Thos. Stone, M.A. Assit. Curate St. john the Evangelist, Westminster.” Whilst the Blue Coast School in Westminster may have been the first of this type of charity school, the problem with being a charity school was the constant need to raise funds, and the frequent shortage of sufficient funding to provide all the services that were intended by the trustees. The following article from the Westminster and Chelsea News on the 28th of January, 1882 shows both one of the benefits of attending the school and the impact of a lack of funding (also note the use of Blew rather than Blue which seems to have been used a number of times): “THE ‘BLEW COAT SCHOOL, WESTMINSTER. The annual dinner to the children of the ‘Blew’ Coat School, Westminster, the gift of John Lettsom Elliot, a former treasurer of the Charity, took place on the 20th inst. in the large school room, where the children were plentifully supplied with roast beef and plum pudding. This old and very useful Westminster Charity is, we are sorry to hear, sadly in need of support, the Governors being compelled to reduce the benefits in consequence, and singular to state this is the only ‘free’ school in Westminster, all the others having been closed. Mr. James Sarsons, the head master, conducted everything in his usual kind manner.” The article highlights the precariousness of providing a service through a charity, in that the charity will always be after new funding, and that being dependent on charity funding, the services provided can only match the money available. The article also states that the Blue Coast School was the only free school available in Westminster, so the other schools shown in Rocque’s map must have closed. I have got this far in the post, and I have not yet shown the front of the school, so here is the building as it faces onto Caxton Street, with the blue coated figure shown in the photos at the start of the post: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-5.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-5.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20916"/></a></figure> The location of parked cars and a delivery lorry in the road opposite the school made it a bit difficult to photograph, but it is a lovely building and very different to the school’s surroundings. The article above from 1882 was getting towards the end of the school’s history as a charity school as the provision of education was changing in the late 19th century, with the provision of free education for all children and the creation of the London School Board, which was responsible for many of the wonderful large brick late 19th century schools we can still see across London. The location of the school was also suffering with the constant development of the area, for example with the construction of the District Line which resulted in the loss of part of the school’s land and buildings. In 1898 the Governors of the school requested and received authorisation to close the school and transfer the land and building to the Vestry of St. Margaret and St. John, Westminster, who then transferred the school to the Christchurch National Schools, as part of the national church school system. The school then became the Infants department of Christchurch School, and attached to the church which has since been demolished, and which stood on the corner of Caxton Street and Broadway. During the Second World War, the school was used by the Forces, after the war for community use such as the Girl Guides and as a Youth Club, as well as continuing use as an infant school until 1954. The building was purchased by the National Trust in 1954, and was then restored and opened to the public. Further restoration work was needed in 1974, when the Trust also installed offices in the basement. <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-7.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Victoria-Bluecoat-School-7.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20918"/></a></figure> The National Trust closed their shop along with public access to the old Blue Coat School building in 2013, when it then became a showroom for bridal wear designer Ian Stewart. The building is Grade I listed. I am not sure if the building is still owned by the National Trust. The Historic England official list entry for the building does have National Trust in brackets after the name of the building, however the date of the most recent amendment is 1987, when the building was an open, National Trust property. In the <a href="https://heritagerecords.nationaltrust.org.uk/HBSMR/MonRecord.aspx?uid=MNA130297">National Trust Heritage Records Online</a> record for the building, the Most Recent Monitoring section has “None Recorded”, which implies that it is not a National Trust property as I assume they would be monitoring the building. The building is now occupied by Studio Ashby, who appear to be residential and commercial interior designers, and on their website they state that they have “become the next custodians of this magical and historic site”, which implies the building is now privately owned. From <a href="https://studioashby.com/projects/blewcoat-school-london/">photos on Studio Ashby’s website</a>, the interior still includes the following features from the Historic England listing “Fine interior forming single tall space with pilasters and niches to walls, entablature and coved ceiling; four fluted Corinthian columns mark entrance; fireplace to opposite end” – although the fireplace is not visible, and the whole of the interior is painted white. The building’s Grade I listing should help preserve the building into the future, and it is good to see the statue and plaque on the front looking better today than they were in 1984. The Blue Coat School in Caxton Street is an important reminder of the development of education in London, and how the aim of these charities was to give the children of the poor a religious education, along with gaining the skills needed to get an apprenticeship, or to work. A wonderful survivor given how much this area has changed, and continues to change. <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/">alondoninheritance.com</a> <div class="sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled"><div class="robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing"><h3 class="sd-title">Share this:</h3><div class="sd-content"><ul><li class="share-twitter"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-url="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-buildings/bluecoat-school-caxton-street-westminster/" data-text="Bluecoat School, Caxton Street, Westminster" >Tweet</a></li><li class="share-facebook"><div class="fb-share-button" data-href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-buildings/bluecoat-school-caxton-street-westminster/" data-layout="button_count"></div></li><li><a href="#" class="sharing-anchor sd-button share-more">More</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul><div class="sharing-hidden"><div class="inner" style="display: none;width:150px;"><ul style="background-image:none;"><li class="share-bluesky"><a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" data-shared="sharing-bluesky-20921" class="share-bluesky sd-button" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-buildings/bluecoat-school-caxton-street-westminster/?share=bluesky" target="_blank" title="Click to share on Bluesky" >Bluesky</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div> </div> <footer class="entry-meta"> This entry was posted in <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/london-buildings/" rel="category tag">London Buildings</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/london-history/" rel="category tag">London History</a> and tagged <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/bluecoat-school/" rel="tag">Bluecoat School</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/victoria/" rel="tag">Victoria</a> on <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/london-buildings/bluecoat-school-caxton-street-westminster/" title="6:30 am" rel="bookmark"><time class="entry-date" datetime="2024-09-29T06:30:00+00:00">September 29, 2024</time></a> by <a class="url fn n" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/author/admin/" title="View all posts by admin" rel="author">admin</a>. </footer> </article> <article id="post-20896" class="post-20896 post type-post status-publish format-standard hentry category-londonpubs tag-london-pubs tag-soho-pubs"> <header class="entry-header"> <h1 class="entry-title"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/londonpubs/soho-pubs-part-2/" rel="bookmark">Soho Pubs – Part 2</a> </h1> <div class="comments-link"> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/londonpubs/soho-pubs-part-2/#comments">8 Replies</a> </div> </header> <div class="entry-content"> <a href="https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/the-south-bank-marsh-industry-culture-and-the-festival-of-britain-tickets-1016866473997">Tickets for my final Southbank walk until next summer: The South Bank – Marsh, Industry, Culture and the Festival of Britain, on the 20th of October, are now available by clicking here.</a> I am back in Soho for this week’s post, continuing my exploration of Soho pubs, including one that claims to be “the West End’s best known pub”, and that “it’s a deeply loved London institution with a rich history”. The pub with these claims will be later in the post, and is one of many fascinating and individual pubs to be found across part of London which, along with the City, has the highest density of pubs, and where drinking has been embedded in the culture of the place. Today’s tour starts with: <h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Crown and Two Chairmen – Dean Street</h2> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-15-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1686" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-15-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20727" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-15-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-15-300x198.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> The Crown and Two Chairmen is one of the more unusual London pub names. The building we see today dates from 1929, however there has been a pub on the site since 1736 when it was called just the Crown. The story about the change of name to the Crown and Two Chairmen is that two sedan chair men who were taking Queen Anne to have her portrait painted by Sir James Thornhill, who apparently had his studio in the area, would call at the pub for a drink. One of the places where this story was put forward was an article in the Sporting Life on the 3rd of November 1926 on historic pubs, where the following was written about the Crown and Two Chairmen, as one of the oldest-established hostelries in the West End: “It is the only inn of the name in London, and is said to derive its title from the fact that the bearers of Queen Anne’s chair were wont to beguile their time there while Her Majesty was sitting for her portrait to Sir James Thornhill, who lived in the house opposite. This house, No. 74, is still standing next door to the Royalty Theatre. The Crown and Two Chairmen is probably the tavern mentioned by George Augustus Sala as the one in which he first saw Thackeray. The house was kept by one Dick Moreland, supposed to have been the last landlord in London to wear a pigtail and top-boots, and a small club was held upstairs.” The problem with this story is that Queen Anne died in 1714, twenty two years before the original pub seems to have been built. The change in name was probably to separate the pub from another pub with the same original name, the Crown in Brewer Street. I cannot find exactly when the pub changed name, the earliest reference I can find is from August 1811, when the landlord of the pub was unwittingly involved with handling a stolen £10 note. In this reference, the pub had the name of Crown and Two Chairmen. Whether or not the Queen Anne reference is correct, the pub has one of the more unusual names in London. <h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Dog and Duck – Bateman Street</h2> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-16-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1700" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-16-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20728" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-16-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-16-300x199.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> So many London pubs are on the corner of two streets. This makes sense as a corner location stands out far more than within a terrace. Potential customers walking along multiple streets can see the pub, however it does cause confusion with the address of a pub. What street should apply? Taking the Dog and Duck, the longest side of the building, with three upper floor window bays is on Bateman Street, and this is the street used in the address of the pub, however, searching for references to the pub, Frith Street is used just as many times as Bateman Street, and Frith Street has by far the shortest side of the pub, with just a single window bay. As an example, the building is Grade II listed, and in the <a href="https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1264051?section=official-list-entry">Historic England listing</a>, Bateman Street is given as the address of the pub in the header to the entry, however Frith Street is used in the entry detail. The listing states that that Dog and Duck was built in 1897, and designed by Francis Chambers for the Cannon Brewery. The interior of the pub is “an exceptional survival of a small late Victorian pub interior with tile work, mirrors and high-quality joinery”. Although the current pub building dates from 1897, it was built on the site of an early 18th century pub with the same name. The earliest reference I can find to the pub dates from the 17th of July, 1752, and reads: “On Tuesday, about Five o’clock in the afternoon, as Lieutenant-Colonel Demarr, of Col. Holmes’s late Regiment of Marines was going along Thrift Street, Soho, he was suddenly taken ill, and went into the Dog and Duck Alehouse, where a Surgeon was sent for to bleed him, but to no purpose, for he expired in a short time.” The spelling of the street as Thrift Street in the above article must have been an error, as the name Frith Street appears on maps in the 17th century and onwards. In 2003, newspapers were reporting that the pop star Madonna was a visitor to the Dog and Duck, and that “The ‘Material Girl’ told how she had developed a taste for Landlord at the Dog and Duck in London’s Soho, where it has been sold for about 10 years. her revelation on Jonathan Ross’s BBC talk show has caused a flurry of media activity and now the Campaign for Real Ale are claiming bitter is back in Vogue”. A nice touch with exterior decoration to the pub is that on the corner of the pub, where there should be a window on the third floor is the following relief showing a dog with a duck in its mouth: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-17-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1795" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-17-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20729" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-17-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-17-300x210.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> <h2 class="wp-block-heading">The French House – Dean Street</h2> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-18-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1689" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-18-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20730" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-18-scaled.jpg 1689w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-18-198x300.jpg 198w" sizes="(max-width: 1689px) 100vw, 1689px" /></a></figure> The pub has had the formal name of the French House for a relatively short period of time, it was originally called the York Minster. Another example of being careful with sources, Wikipedia states that the “pub was opened by a German national named Christian Schmitt in 1891 and traded as York Minster”, however there are plenty of newspaper reports that mention the pub, going back several decades in the 19th century, with the earliest I could find being from 1837 when a horse trotting challenge was being advertised and that the challenge could be backed at the York Minster, Dean Street, Soho. The French theme to the pub has been around for some time, in parallel to being called the York Minster. Although an early landlord was a German national, the pub was for long managed by a Belgian national, one Victor Berlemont, who had a son, Gaston Berlemont who was born in the pub in 1914. Gaston was a British national, who lived in Soho, and served in the RAF, and became the landlord of the York Minister when his father died in 1951. He continued as landlord until retirement, rather appropriately on Bastille Day in 1989. The pub was popular with the Free French forces during the Second World War and later Gaston promoted a Gallic image for the pub, and long before the change of name, it became known as “The French”. There are two films of Gaston’s retirement on the 14th of July 1989 on YouTube. Part 1 is here (if received via email, you will need to go to the <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/">post on the website here to view</a>): <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-4-3 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KDo2HsgnrdQ?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> And part 2 is here: <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-4-3 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9fy9yFdYDlQ?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> As can be seen in the above two films, the name of the pub in 1989 was the French House, and the name change had taken place 5 years earlier in 1984 after the fire at the real York Minster, when apparently donations for the repair of the church in York were being received at the pub in Soho, which Gaston did forward to York (and there is a story that wine destined for the pub in Soho reached the real York Minster in York). The change in name was really just a formality for the pub due to its decades long association with a French influence. For example, in The Tatler on the 28th of January, 1953, the pub was described as follows: “York Minster, Dean Street, opposite bombed St. Anne’s. Upstairs in the small pub there is excellent, plain French cooking to be had most days. It is lucky if you happen to like one of the plats du jour, for they are one of the best bets. You can have wine by the glass and those who favour the drink can watch absinthe dripping into their glass on the zinc downstairs. There is nothing very French-looking about the York Minster (nothing except the period, to remind you of the Toulouse-Lautrec film), but most of the clientele is Soho-French. So is the patron.” The French influence continues to this day, with the French flags on the front of the pub, and with the menu at the first floor restaurant. <h2 class="wp-block-heading">Admiral Duncan – Old Compton Street</h2> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-19.jpg"><img decoding="async" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-19.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20731"/></a></figure> The Admiral Duncan in Old Compton Street, known as Soho’s oldest gay pub, was the scene of a bomb attack in 1999, when it was the third London site attacked by the so called at the time “London Nail Bomber”. Although no one had died in the previous two attacks, the bomb at the Admiral Duncan killed three,. When the attacker was sent for trial, newspapers summarized the accusations: “A 23 year old engineer accused of murdering three people in London nail bombings was committed for trial yesterday at the Old Bailey. **********, of Cove, Hampshire, is accused of murdering Andrea Dykes, John Light and Nicholas Moore in a bomb blast at the Admiral Duncan pub in Soho, central London, on April 30th. He is also accused of three counts of causing an explosion relating to the bombing at Electric Avenue, Brixton, south London, on April 17th, a bombing in the Brick Lane, east London the following Saturday and at Soho on April 30th.” He should have been charged with four murders as Andrea Dykes was pregnant. The choice of bomb locations, where minority and vulnerable people were targets gives some indication of the attacker’s motivations as a neo-Nazi, who used bombs packed with nails, designed to cause maximum harm to anyone in the vicinity of the explosion, and many of the 139 injured in the three attacks had horrific injuries. He told police that he “wanted to be an infamous murderer who started a race war”. The above newspaper report included his name, however I have deleted it, as people who do this should not have their names remembered (as was his intention), rather they should be consigned to oblivion. He was given 6 life sentences, and hopefully should never be released, although he is eligible for parole in his seventies. The Admiral Duncan pub seems to date from the early decades of the 19th century, I suspect it was 1826 as the Admiral Duncan was advertising for staff, for example with the following advert from the Morning Advertiser on Thursday 15th of June, 1826: “WANTED in a Public-House a SERVANT of ALL-WORK. A young Woman of good character may apply at the Admiral Duncan, Old Compton-street, Soho.” The bomb attacks were the result of an individuals hatred and discrimination of other communities, and the above advert of staff in 1826 ended with another example, as it ended with “No Irish person need apply”. A couple of month later, the Admiral Duncan was advertising for “a SERVANT of ALL-WORK – A young English WOMAN of good character”. I do not know if this was specific to the landlord of the Admiral Duncan in 1826, as you do not see this type of discrimination that often in adverts for pub staff in the early 19th century. The pub is named after Admiral Adam Duncan, who was the Admiral in charge of the Royal Navy fleet that defeated the Dutch fleet in the battle of Camperdown (or Camperduin, the Dutch name of the town on the coast of the Netherlands) off where the battle was fought. The battle was a significant victory, and is ranked as one of the most important actions in the history of the Royal Navy. Duncan was made a Viscount and received an annual pension of £3,000 as a reward for his success, and there seems to have been a number of pubs given the name of the Admiral Duncan in the first half of the 19th century. <h2 class="wp-block-heading">Comptons – Old Compton Street</h2> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-20-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1477" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-20-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20732" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-20-scaled.jpg 1477w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-20-173x300.jpg 173w" sizes="(max-width: 1477px) 100vw, 1477px" /></a></figure> Comptons in Old Compton Street is another Soho LBGTQ pub, however the current name is relatively recent. It started out as the Swiss Hotel a private hotel that seems to have catered for the Swiss community as in 1874 is was advertising for “a young Swiss”, who also speaks English. Whether having Swiss staff was to support a Swiss customer base, or as a novelty for English customers is not clear. It could be the former as a year earlier in 1873, there was an advert placed by a Swiss person who gave the Swiss Hotel as an address, and who was looking for a position as an indoor servant, and among their abilities were listed as being able to speak French, German and Italian, and a little English. The hotel seems to have been a place for those from Switzerland to stay. The earliest reference to the Swiss Hotel I can find dates from 1871 when there is a record of the license being transferred from James Dennler to Rodolphe Stauffer. The Survey of London volumes for Soho entry for the Swiss Hotel opens with “This was built in 1890 to the plans of the architects W. A. Williams and Hopton, who exhibited their design in that year at the Royal Academy.” The Survey of London does not make any mention of the Swiss Hotel as being in Old Compton Street before 1890, however taking newspapers from the 1870s and 1880s, there are mentions of the Swiss Hotel, and 1890 could be a reference to the build of the current building on the site, rather than the institution of the Swiss Hotel. The last reference to the name Swiss Hotel I could find is from 1969 when it was the site for a large gathering of West End members of the National Association of Theatrical and Kine Employees union. By 1972 is was known as the Swiss Tavern, and was the home of the Playroom Theatre Club, which was advertised as “A new lunchtime company, has been formed by Jonathan Burn and Alan West at the Swiss Tavern, 53 Old Compton Street, W.1. The aim is to present original and experimental productions, for which applicants are welcomed whether engaged in the evenings or not. Workshop exercises with emphasis not only on the group but on individual expression will be part of the activities. A number of directors, writers, actors designers and technical personnel are already collaborating but a total number of from ten to fourteen is needed.” One of the productions put on at the Playroom Theatre Club in 1973 attracted much publicity, including the following from the “Entertainment” section of the Marylebone Mercury (excuse the language): “On the fringe of respectability – THEATRE on the cheap is alive and doing all right in the pubs of Soho. They call it fringe theatre and it certainly is in every way – on the borderline of respectability, like Soho itself, and of bankcrupty. The Playroom Theatre Club, above the Swiss Tavern pub in Old Compton Street has been going a year almost with productions like ‘Areatha in the Ice Palace’ and ‘Wankers’. The Swiss Tavern is opposite a sex-movie club, next door to a strip club. No wonder one of the biggest hits by Playroom was ‘Wankers’, which had to be retained for an extra week. People who think ‘ pornography’ must be awfully disappointed, said producer Judith Wills from Missouri.” Later in the article, the producers complained that “So far, despite pressure, the Arts Council has refused to help this sort of fringe theatre”, and that this refusal could have been due to being over a pub. There was a number of other fringe theatre groups operating in pubs across Soho. The Playroom Theatre Group does not seem to have lasted beyond the end of 1973, however the Swiss Tavern continued to be one of the Soho pubs frequented by those in the acting profession. The name Swiss Tavern disappeared in the 1980s, and by the end of the decade it was known as Compton’s, and in the 1990s, its current identity was well established, as this report from the Scotsman on the 13th of June 1996, illustrates: “SORRY, but there only is one game in town – England v Scotland on Saturday. It is understood that much of London pubs, clubs and other places of entertainment, plans to close down in spite of Scottish fans having one of the best reputations in world football. But at least one pub will be open. Compton’s in Old Compton Street run by Stevie and George from Glasgow, will welcome Scots. One thing to remember; it is reputed to be Soho’s best gay pub.” <h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Golden Lion – Dean Street</h2> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-21-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1744" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-21-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20733" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-21-scaled.jpg 1744w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-21-204x300.jpg 204w" sizes="(max-width: 1744px) 100vw, 1744px" /></a></figure> The Survey of London records that the Golden Lion existed in 1728, so this is an old pub, although the building on the site today is a later version of the pub, having been built at the end of the 1920s for the brewer William Younger. The current version of the Golden Lion does retain a number of features saved from the earlier building, including this rather impressive sun dial from the time before the rebuild when it was known as Ye Golden Lion: <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-22-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1837" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-22-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20734" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-22-scaled.jpg 1837w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-22-215x300.jpg 215w" sizes="(max-width: 1837px) 100vw, 1837px" /></a></figure> The journalist, author, TV presenter, and Soho drinker, Daniel Farson wrote the book “Soho in the Fifties” about his time in Soho during the decade, the people he met, the pubs restaurants etc. The book contains many of Farson’s photos of life around Soho at the time, and it is a brilliant book for a snapshot of Soho, a Soho that for the most part, has been lost. He wrote about the Golden lion under the title “The Queer Pubs”: “In Soho there were two ‘queer pubs’ as they were called then, the Fitzroy off Charlotte Street to the north, and the Golden Lion in Dean Street to the south. Though the Lion was a few doors away from the French, the two pubs had so little in common that they might have been in separate towns. Married couples wandered into the Lion by mistake and left swiftly when they discovered they were surrounded by strange men, or remained, delighted by their chance discovery, but Gaston (at the French) did not encourage stragglers who crossed the frontier for a change of scene, and one of his quizzical stares sufficed to scare them off again. Only a few customers were regulars of both.” The Golden Lion later achieved some notoriety as the serial killer Dennis Nilsen picked up at least one of his victims at the pub. <h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Coach & Horses – Greek Street</h2> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-23-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1741" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-23-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20735" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-23-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-23-300x204.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></a></figure> On the sign on the corner of the pub, the Coach & Horses claims that it is “the West End’s best known pub”, and on the pub’s website, that “it’s a deeply loved London institution with a rich history”, but fails to put any of this history on the pub’s website. The claims seem to stem from one man, Norman Balon, the Landlord for an incredible length of time from 1943 to 2006, when he lived up to his self proclaimed reputation as being the “rudest landlord in London”. Typical of the many accounts of Norman Balon’s last day at the Coach and Horses is the following: “The strangely coveted title of London’s Rudest Landlord is now vacant, as its long-time holder, Norman Balon of the Coach and Horses, Soho, tucks the sale price of the pub into his locally made suit and takes the Underground home to his home in Golders Green. Mr. Balon, 79, has told more people to drink up and leave than Jeffrey Bernard drank large vodka-ice-and-sodas at his bar side during the decades he wrote Low Life, his celebrated Spectator column. Last week the pub overflowed like a badly pulled pint with well-wishers. Richard Ingrams, founder of satirical magazine Private Eye made a two-sentence speech: ‘the only man grumpier than me. I salute you’. Writer Beryl Bainbridge cheered, Spencer Bright, biographer of both Boy George and Norman Balon, looked sad. For this is the pub behind Michael Heath’s extraordinary cartoon strip ‘The Regulars’ in Private Eye, which once had one Regular saying to another ‘I’m sorry I was rude last night. You see, I was sober’. At the farewell bash, Heath remarked ‘I don’t remember Norman being rude. in fact, i don’t remember anything from those years’. By classic Soho standards of stiletto rudeness, Norman Balon was a measured man. Tourists asking for sandwiches might, though, be puzzled to be told to leave and not come back. It was a defense mechanism against bores. The Coach, as everyone called it, was a pub for talking, since Mr. Balon would tolerate no jukebox, among other things.” The Coach and Horses featured in the play, “Jeffrey Bernard is Unwell”, by Keith Waterhouse, which opened in London at the Apollo Theatre in Shaftesbury Lane in October 1989, with Peter O’Toole playing the lead character of Jeffrey Bernard, with a small supporting cast. Jeffrey Bernard was a journalist who wrote for Private Eye and Sporting Life, and for the Spectator under the name of “Low Life”, where he wrote about his life in Soho and in the Coach and Horses where he was very much a regular. The magazine Private Eye held their lunches at the pub for 25 years. Norman Balon’s biography was ghost written by Spencer Bright and went by the title of “You’re Barred, You Bastards: The Memoirs of a Soho Publican”. There is a conversation with Norman Balon here (<a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/">again click here to go to the website if you cannot see the post</a>): <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-4-3 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9ve4toCwkbo?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> There is a 1987 BBC Arena documentary about Jeffrey Bernard which includes film within the Coach & Horses: <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-4-3 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/doA__PRdZ-Q?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> And another documentary on Jeffrey Bernard – Reach for the Ground, which includes some film of Soho as it was: <figure class="wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-4-3 wp-has-aspect-ratio"><div class="wp-block-embed__wrapper"> <iframe loading="lazy" class="youtube-player" width="625" height="352" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/efJ02m4wOkY?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-US&autohide=2&wmode=transparent" allowfullscreen="true" style="border:0;" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox"></iframe> </div></figure> The Coach and Horses is Grade II listed, both the pub building, and as part of a block of adjoinging buildings. It is listed for the exterior architecure and for surviving internal features. The first record of a license for the Coach and Horses dates back to 1724. The current building dates from around 1840, and the pub was remodeled and extended in 1889, with the interior bar from 1930 when the pub was taken over by Taylor, Walker & Company. It is a wonderful pub, and a reminder of a lost Soho. <h2 class="wp-block-heading">The Three Greyhounds – Greek Street</h2> <figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-24-scaled.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1702" height="2560" src="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-24-scaled.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-20736" srcset="https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-24-scaled.jpg 1702w, https://alondoninheritance.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Soho-Pubs-24-199x300.jpg 199w" sizes="(max-width: 1702px) 100vw, 1702px" /></a></figure> The Three Greyhounds claims that the name comes from the greyhounds that roamed the area that became Soho, when it was open field. The pub appears to date back to 1837, when Soho was a densely built and populated area of London, and greyhounds roaming the fields would have been a couple of centuries before. The mock Tudor styling of the pub probably intends to give its appearance some age. I cannot find too much of a history to the Three Greyhounds, apart from it being a typical Soho pub which attracted its fair share of writers, musicians, those active in the theatre industry etc. All who were once part of the drinking culture of Soho. The journalist, author, TV presenter, and Soho drinker, Daniel Farson quoted earlier in the section on the Golden Lion, included in his book a summary of “A Soho Type of Person” and which encapsulates how drinking was such an important part of the culture of Soho: A Soho Type of Person: The drinkers in the French symbolised Soho in 1951. What makes a Soho type of person? You need a Bohemian streak to find the lure irresistible. You would never contemplate going out for ‘just the one’ unless it was the one day. Soho people rarely use ‘drink’ in the singular – lets meet for a drink, or we’ll discuss it over a drink – for they know that that much singularity is absurd. Yet they take offence if someone asks them if they want ‘another’ for the semblance of self-discipline is vital. An alcoholic hates drink; the Soho person loves it. This is why there are so few alcoholics in Soho though plenty of drunks. Soho people do not tell ‘jokes’ and avoid the eyes of those who do. They relish true stories, especially of their friends’ disasters. equally they enjoy celebrating a friend’s success….when the friend is paying. The good luck might rub off. A Soho person is someone: <ul> <li>who is not afraid to cry in public;</li> <li>who rarely travels by public transport, preferring the privacy of taxis;</li> <li>who regards taxes of the other sort, and all brown envelopes with little windows, as an unwarrantable intrusion;</li> <li>who cashes cheques anywhere, except the bank;</li> <li>who seldom knows the date;</li> <li>who will miss a dinner appointment if he is enjoying himself;</li> <li>who has been barred from at least one pub, club or restaurant;</li> <li>whose life staggers from the gutter to the Ritz and maybe back again.</li> </ul> Pubs have long been an important part of life in Soho, and is one of the reasons why so many pubs remain. I will continue exploring these wonderful institutions in part 3 of my tour of Soho pubs. <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/londonpubs/watermans-arms-isle-dogs/">For more on the author Daniel Farson quoted in this post, see my post on The Waterman’s Arms – Isle of Dogs.</a> <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/">alondoninheritance.com</a> <div class="sharedaddy sd-sharing-enabled"><div class="robots-nocontent sd-block sd-social sd-social-official sd-sharing"><h3 class="sd-title">Share this:</h3><div class="sd-content"><ul><li class="share-twitter"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-url="https://alondoninheritance.com/londonpubs/soho-pubs-part-2/" data-text="Soho Pubs - Part 2" >Tweet</a></li><li class="share-facebook"><div class="fb-share-button" data-href="https://alondoninheritance.com/londonpubs/soho-pubs-part-2/" data-layout="button_count"></div></li><li><a href="#" class="sharing-anchor sd-button share-more">More</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul><div class="sharing-hidden"><div class="inner" style="display: none;width:150px;"><ul style="background-image:none;"><li class="share-bluesky"><a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" data-shared="sharing-bluesky-20896" class="share-bluesky sd-button" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/londonpubs/soho-pubs-part-2/?share=bluesky" target="_blank" title="Click to share on Bluesky" >Bluesky</a></li><li class="share-end"></li></ul></div></div></div></div></div> </div> <footer class="entry-meta"> This entry was posted in <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/category/londonpubs/" rel="category tag">London Pubs</a> and tagged <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/london-pubs/" rel="tag">London Pubs</a>, <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/tag/soho-pubs/" rel="tag">Soho Pubs</a> on <a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/londonpubs/soho-pubs-part-2/" title="6:30 am" rel="bookmark"><time class="entry-date" datetime="2024-09-22T06:30:00+00:00">September 22, 2024</time></a> by <a class="url fn n" href="https://alondoninheritance.com/author/admin/" title="View all posts by admin" rel="author">admin</a>. </footer> </article> <nav id="nav-below" class="navigation" role="navigation"> <h3 class="assistive-text">Post navigation</h3> <div class="nav-previous"><a href="https://alondoninheritance.com/author/admin/page/2/" >← Older posts</a></div> <div class="nav-next"></div> </nav> </div> </section> <div id="secondary" class="widget-area" role="complementary"> <aside id="blog_subscription-2" class="widget widget_blog_subscription jetpack_subscription_widget"><h3 class="widget-title">Subscribe to Blog via Email</h3> <div class="wp-block-jetpack-subscriptions__container"> <form action="#" method="post" accept-charset="utf-8" id="subscribe-blog-blog_subscription-2" data-blog="64512453" data-post_access_level="everybody" > <div id="subscribe-text">Join me as I explore London past and present over the coming months. 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