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500;align-items:center;color:#959595;display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-size:var(--w-day-font-size)}.day--desktop{--w-day-temp-font-size: 24px;--w-day-temp-font-weight: normal;--w-day-name-font-weight: 600}.day:first-of-type{color:#4b4b4b}.day__name{font-weight:var(--w-day-name-font-weight);line-height:1;margin-bottom:.75em;text-transform:uppercase}.day__symbol-header{display:block;height:80px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:98px}.day__symbol{display:block;height:40px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:50px}.day--desktop .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-top:15px;width:70px}.day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size);font-weight:var(--w-day-temp-font-weight);line-height:1.2;margin-top:.75em;text-transform:lowercase}.day__temp--header{color:#4b4b4b;font-size:32px;font-weight:bold}.day--mobile:first-of-type{display:flex;flex-flow:row wrap;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:3em}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-right:10px;overflow:visible;width:80px}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size-big);font-weight:bold;margin-top:0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location{font-size:120%;font-weight:500;margin:1em 0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{color:#959595}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location,.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{text-align:center;width:100%} .weather{--w-height: 50px;--w-wrapper-margin: 24px;--w-days-flexbasis: 33%;margin-bottom:2rem}.weather--desktop{--w-height: 80px;--w-wrapper-margin: 50px;--w-days-flexbasis: initial;margin-bottom:1rem}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .weather__days{flex-flow:row wrap}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .day:first-of-type{flex-basis:100%;width:auto}.weather__separator{border-right:1px solid #dcdcdc;display:block;height:var(--w-height)}.weather__days{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-basis:var(--w-days-flexbasis);justify-content:space-evenly;margin-top:2.5rem}.weather__days--desktop{margin-top:4rem}.weather__header{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-flow:column;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:var(--w-wrapper-margin)}.weather__header button{margin-top:1.5rem}.weather__header--desktop{position:relative}.weather__header--desktop button{margin:0;position:absolute;right:0} .destination-header{width:100%}.destination-header__container{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:center;min-height:380px;overflow:hidden;padding:0 16px;position:relative}.destination-header__image{height:100%;overflow:hidden;position:absolute;width:100%}.destination-header__image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.destination-header__text{color:#fff;font-size:28px;letter-spacing:-0.95px;line-height:37.4px;max-width:488px;padding:0 20px;position:relative;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;width:100%}.destination-header__text a{color:#fff;font-weight:300;text-decoration:none}.destination-header__text--desktop{font-size:36px}.destination-header__text-container{border-bottom:solid 1px #fff;display:inline-block;line-height:1.3;padding-bottom:17px}.destination-header__text-container--desktop{padding-bottom:.75ex}.destination-header__link-page,.destination-header__advert{color:#fff;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.5px;margin-top:20px;position:relative;text-align:center}.destination-header__link-page span,.destination-header__advert span{display:block;width:100%}.destination-header__link-page--desktop,.destination-header__advert--desktop{margin-top:40px}.destination-header__link-page{left:14px;margin:0;position:absolute;text-transform:uppercase;top:20px}.destination-header__link-page--desktop{left:25px;top:36px}.destination-header__background{background-image:radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5, 36, 53, 0.37) 50%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0) 83%);height:100%;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.destination-header a{color:#fff;text-decoration:none} .image-card{position:relative}.image-card img{object-fit:cover;width:100%}.image-card__heading-container{color:#fff;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:80px;transform:translate(-50%, -50%)}.image-card__heading-container button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:.875rem;letter-spacing:.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none}.image-card__heading-container h1{font-size:.9rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container h2{font-size:2.1rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.25px;line-height:42px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container-landscape{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);width:90%}.image-card__heading-container-landscape__mobile{align-items:center;flex-direction:column}.image-card__heading-container-landscape h1{color:#fff;font-size:2.25rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:.95px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container-landscape button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:.875rem;height:60px;letter-spacing:.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none;width:260px} .filter{display:inline-block;max-width:160px;position:relative}.filter__button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:16px;padding:16px;width:160px}.filter__content{background-color:#000;display:none;position:absolute;width:160px;z-index:1}.filter:focus .filter__content,.filter:hover .filter__content{display:block}.filter__content--open{display:block}.filter__content button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:block;font-style:italic;padding:12px 16px;text-decoration:none;width:100%}.filter__content button:hover{background-color:#494848} .callout-box-card{background-color:#eaeaea;color:#4a4a4a;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;text-align:left}.callout-box-card img{height:100%;width:100%}.callout-box-card__container{padding:.2rem 1.5rem}.callout-box-card__container h3{font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:16px;margin:1rem 0;text-transform:uppercase}.callout-box-card__container h4{font-size:28px;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:35px}.callout-box-card__container .body{font-size:16px;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.12px;line-height:31px}.callout-box-card__container .body a{color:#4a4a4a;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none}.mapboxgl-map{font:12px/20px Helvetica Neue,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;overflow:hidden;position:relative;-webkit-tap-highlight-color:rgba(0,0,0,0)}.mapboxgl-canvas{position:absolute;left:0;top:0}.mapboxgl-map:-webkit-full-screen{width:100%;height:100%}.mapboxgl-canary{background-color:salmon}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive,.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass{cursor:-webkit-grab;cursor:-moz-grab;cursor:grab;-moz-user-select:none;-webkit-user-select:none;-ms-user-select:none;user-select:none}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive.mapboxgl-track-pointer{cursor:pointer}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive:active,.mapboxgl-ctrl-group 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.mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:10px 0 0 10px;float:left}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:10px 10px 0 0;float:right}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:0 0 10px 10px;float:left}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:0 10px 10px 0;float:right}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group{border-radius:4px;background:#fff}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty){-moz-box-shadow:0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,.1);-webkit-box-shadow:0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,.1);box-shadow:0 0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,.1)}@media(-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty){box-shadow:0 0 0 2px ButtonText}}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button{width:29px;height:29px;display:block;padding:0;outline:none;border:0;box-sizing:border-box;background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0);cursor:pointer}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button+button{border-top:1px solid #ddd}.mapboxgl-ctrl button .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{display:block;width:100%;height:100%;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-position:50%}@media(-ms-high-contrast: 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l-173.205,100c-0.478,0.276-1.023,0.332-1.518,0.2c-0.494-0.132-0.938-0.454-1.214-0.932l-34-58.89 c-0.275-0.476-0.33-1.022-0.197-1.517c0.133-0.495,0.453-0.94,0.93-1.215l173.205-100c0.478-0.276,1.023-0.332,1.518-0.2 C371.386,262.958,371.83,263.279,372.106,263.757z"></path></g></svg><span>iPlayer</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><svg class="product-icon" width="1.75em" height="1.75em" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#A13104" d="M122,304H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,302.552,76,302v-92c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,208,78,208h44c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S124,209.448,124,210v92c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S122.552,304,122,304z"></path><path fill="#D24712" d="M230,376h-80c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S148,374.552,148,374V138c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S149.448,136,150,136h80c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S232,137.448,232,138v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S230.552,376,230,376z"></path><path fill="#FA6400" d="M422,424H258c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S256,422.552,256,422V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S257.448,88,258,88h164c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v332c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,424,422,424z"></path></g></svg><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><svg class="product-icon" width="1.75em" height="1.75em" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#6100A8" d="M134,400H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,398.552,76,398V162c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,160,78,160h56c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S136,161.448,136,162v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S134.552,400,134,400z"></path><path fill="#7222C6" d="M254,400h-92c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S160,398.552,160,398V114c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S161.448,112,162,112h92c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S256,113.448,256,114v284c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S254.552,400,254,400z"></path><path fill="#963CE1" d="M444.77,373.863l-85.829,26.232c-0.529,0.162-1.073,0.093-1.526-0.148s-0.812-0.655-0.973-1.184 L273.901,126.63c-0.16-0.528-0.091-1.07,0.149-1.521c0.241-0.451,0.653-0.811,1.18-0.972l85.829-26.232 c0.529-0.162,1.073-0.093,1.526,0.148s0.812,0.655,0.973,1.184l82.542,272.133c0.16,0.528,0.091,1.07-0.149,1.521 C445.71,373.342,445.297,373.702,444.77,373.863z"></path></g></svg><span>Bitesize</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a 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S422.552,280,422,280z"></path><path fill="#D30000" d="M206,328H90c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S88,326.552,88,326V210c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S89.448,208,90,208h116c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S206.552,328,206,328z"></path></g></svg><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport"><svg class="product-icon" width="1.75em" height="1.75em" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#FFD230" d="M90,184h332c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,182.552,424,182V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,89.448,88,90v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414S89.448,184,90,184z"></path><path fill="#FFA100" d="M306,424h116c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,422.552,424,422v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,328,422,328H306c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S304,329.448,304,330v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S305.448,424,306,424z"></path><path fill="#FFBA00" d="M210,304h212c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,302.552,424,302v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,208,422,208H210c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S209.448,304,210,304z"></path></g></svg><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather"><svg class="product-icon" width="1.75em" height="1.75em" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#067EB3" d="M316.234,368.56l52.326-52.326c0.391-0.391,0.586-0.902,0.586-1.414c0-0.512-0.195-1.024-0.586-1.414 L252.594,197.44c-0.391-0.391-0.902-0.586-1.414-0.586s-1.024,0.195-1.414,0.586l-52.326,52.326 c-0.391,0.391-0.586,0.902-0.586,1.414s0.195,1.024,0.586,1.414L313.406,368.56c0.391,0.391,0.902,0.586,1.414,0.586 C315.332,369.146,315.844,368.95,316.234,368.56z"></path><path fill="#1969A6" d="M90,424h74c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S166,422.552,166,422V258c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S164.552,256,164,256H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,257.448,88,258v164c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S89.448,424,90,424z"></path><path fill="#149EDC" d="M258,166h164c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,164.552,424,164V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H258c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S256,89.448,256,90v74c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S257.448,166,258,166z"></path></g></svg><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-iplayer"><a 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article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__image article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fwn08l.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fwn08l.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fwn08l.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fwn08l.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fwn08l.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fwn08l.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fwn08l.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fwn08l.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="(Credit: Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fwn08l.jpg" alt="(Credit: Alamy)" id=""/></picture><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__overlay article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--culture"></span></a></div><div 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media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fwgh1x.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fwgh1x.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fwgh1x.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="(Credit: Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fwgh1x.jpg" alt="(Credit: Alamy)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--culture"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--culture" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/columns/art"><span>Art</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230621-klimts-lady-with-a-fan-the-painting-thats-valued-at-65m"><h2 style="all:unset">Europe's most expensive painting ever?</h2></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--culture styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By <!-- -->Kelly Grovier</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="A show likely to get on viewers' nerves" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::3"}" 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srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fw3c6j.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fw3c6j.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fw3c6j.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fw3c6j.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fw3c6j.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fw3c6j.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fw3c6j.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="(Credit: HBO/Sky)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fw3c6j.jpg" alt="(Credit: HBO/Sky)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--culture"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--culture" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/tags/television"><span>Television</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230619-and-just-like-that-series-two-review-the-sex-and-the-city-sequel-is-still-annoying"><h2 style="all:unset">A show likely to get on viewers' nerves</h2></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--culture styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By <!-- -->Caryn James</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="A big disappointment from Wes Anderson" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230615-asteroid-city-review-even-wes-anderson-fans-may-be-irritated-by-this-empty-and-cartoonish-film" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230615-asteroid-city-review-even-wes-anderson-fans-may-be-irritated-by-this-empty-and-cartoonish-film"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p082b33v.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fvf745.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fvf745.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fvf745.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fvf745.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fvf745.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fvf745.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fvf745.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fvf745.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="(Credit: Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fvf745.jpg" alt="(Credit: Alamy)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--culture"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--culture" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/columns/film"><span>Film</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230615-asteroid-city-review-even-wes-anderson-fans-may-be-irritated-by-this-empty-and-cartoonish-film"><h2 style="all:unset">A big disappointment from Wes Anderson</h2></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--culture styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By <!-- -->Nicholas Barber</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__full-width-image-article"><div data-bbc-container="full-width-image-article" data-bbc-title="Six extraordinary gardens" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"full-width-image-article","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="full-width-image-article"><div class="full-width-image-article__container full-width-image-article__container--desktop"><div class="full-width-image-article__image"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0flq50x.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0flq50x.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0flq50x.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0flq50x.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0flq50x.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0flq50x.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0flq50x.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0flq50x.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="(Credit: Howard Sooley)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0flq50x.jpg" alt="(Credit: Howard Sooley)" id=""/></picture><div class="full-width-image-article__background"></div></div><div class="full-width-image-article__text"><a class="full-width-image-article__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/the-collection"><span class="full-width-image-article-text__label b-reith-sans-font">The Collection</span></a><a class="full-width-image-article__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world"><h2 class="full-width-image-article-text__header b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 full-width-image-article-text__header--desktop">Six extraordinary gardens</h2></a><p class="full-width-image-article-text__author b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 full-width-image-article-text__author--desktop">By <!-- -->Cath Pound</p></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__latest-articles"><div class="latest-articles__container latest-articles__rectangle latest-articles__container--desktop"><p class="latest-articles__editor b-reith-sans-font latest-articles__editor--desktop">Hot Topics</p><div class="latest-articles__articles latest-articles__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group rectangle-story-group--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__hero rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles-container"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The rise of the 'no-wash' movement" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-group__article-hero"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle b-reith-sans-font article-title-card-rectangle--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__container article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__image article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fr38bc.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fr38bc.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fr38bc.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fr38bc.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fr38bc.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fr38bc.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fr38bc.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fr38bc.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="Washing" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fr38bc.jpg" alt="Washing" id=""/></picture><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__overlay article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--culture"></span></a></div><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/the-collection"><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--culture">The Collection</span></a><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes"><h2 class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header b-font-weight-300 article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">The rise of the 'no-wash' movement</h2></a><p class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author b-font-family-serif article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet b-reith-sans-font">By <!-- -->Matilda Welin</p></div></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles rectangle-story-group__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The best comic book movies ever made" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p082b33v.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fsl4fj.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fsl4fj.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fsl4fj.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fsl4fj.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fsl4fj.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fsl4fj.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fsl4fj.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fsl4fj.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="(Credit: Sony Pictures)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fsl4fj.jpg" alt="(Credit: Sony Pictures)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--culture"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--culture" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/columns/film"><span>Film</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made"><h2 style="all:unset">The best comic book movies ever made</h2></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--culture styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By <!-- -->Kambole Campbell</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="17 photos of landscapes few can see" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p082b33v.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fm7jq1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fm7jq1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fm7jq1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fm7jq1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fm7jq1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fm7jq1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fm7jq1.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fm7jq1.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="N4 Road #1, Nguekhokhe, Senegal, 2019 (Credit: Edward Burtynsky, Nicholas Metivier Gallery, Toronto / Flowers Gallery, London)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fm7jq1.jpg" alt="N4 Road #1, Nguekhokhe, Senegal, 2019 (Credit: Edward Burtynsky, Nicholas Metivier Gallery, Toronto / Flowers Gallery, London)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--culture"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--culture" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/tags/photography"><span>Photography</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see"><h2 style="all:unset">17 photos of landscapes few can see</h2></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--culture styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By <!-- -->Gaia Vince</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The jacket that symbolises Britishness" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p082b33v.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0ft77d0.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0ft77d0.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0ft77d0.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0ft77d0.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0ft77d0.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0ft77d0.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0ft77d0.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0ft77d0.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="Princess of Wales in a Barbour jacket" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20230627053804im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0ft77d0.jpg" alt="Princess of Wales in a Barbour jacket" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--culture"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--culture" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/the-collection"><span>The Collection</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20230627053804/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol"><h2 style="all:unset">The jacket that symbolises Britishness</h2></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--culture styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By <!-- -->Lindsay Baker</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></main></div></div> <script>window.__PWA_PRELOADED_STATE__ = 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The mid-Century chairs surround a glass table on a wood base, crafted by Cuban carpenters, who also created the outdoor table. (Credit: Adrian Fernandez)","synopsisMedium":"Mid-Century moment","synopsisShort":"Mid-Century moment","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20230627053804\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp05g77jy.jpg","title":"HavanaLiving_p062_crop.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p05g77jy","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20230627053804\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp05g77jy.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150458},"p0dlbnnx":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0dlbnnx","_id":"6399d935122e040f4a304c9a","copyright":"Alamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20230627053804\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fdl\u002Fbn\u002Fp0dlbnnx.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"","synopsisMedium":"The pastel-hued, ultra-feminine aesthetic of the social-media Soft Girl trend has gone mainstream – but there's more to it than cutesiness (Credit: Alamy)","synopsisShort":"Alamy","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20230627053804\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0dlbnnx.jpg","title":"soft 4.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0dlbnnx","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20230627053804\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0dlbnnx.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150458}},"articles":{"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on","_id":"6498c733122e041dfe6d9156","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fclare-thorp"],"bodyIntro":"From Stevie Nicks to Taylor Swift and \"whimsigoth\", the boho, rock-goddess aesthetic is an enduring look, writes Clare Thorp.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EOf all the rock 'n' roll legends who have played Glastonbury over its 53-year history, one much-loved band hasn't appeared on the bill. Fleetwood Mac have never made the pilgrimage to Worthy Farm. Even so, when the gates to Glastonbury opened a few days ago, the band's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20210820-edge-of-seventeen-an-anthem-that-stuns-each-new-generation\"\u003EStevie Nicks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E will certainly have been there in spirit. Or rather, in the form of all the many festival-goers dressed in her signature look of flowing maxi dresses, billowing sleeves, kimonos, shawls and layers of chiffon, velvet and lace. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230307-daisy-jones-the-six-a-wild-tale-of-rock-n-roll-excess\"\u003EA wild tale of rock 'n' roll excess\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes\"\u003ERise of the 'no-wash' movement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230512-how-the-naked-look-took-over-fashion\"\u003EHow the 'naked' look took over\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EModern festival fashion has long leaned into the bohemian look – it's 20 years since \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vogue.co.uk\u002Ffashion\u002Fgallery\u002Fkate-moss-glastonbury-style\"\u003EKate Moss arrived at Glastonbury\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in a pair of fringed suede boots and loose pink kaftan and scarf-style belt. Then, soon after, Sienna Miller's coin belts, cowboy boots and floppy hats also became summer staples. \"In the early 2000s, 70s bohemian-inspired fashion became inextricably linked with summer in the public's minds, likely due to the high press attention on celebrity attendees,\" says fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms. \"Since then, every summer, aspects of the aesthetic return to fashion. It now feels that part of having the 'festival experience' is wearing a bohemian-inspired look.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fwrjcq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Stevie Nicks","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EBut this summer's dominant style is about more than a token flower crown. Whether it's the plethora of patchwork, flares, fringed jackets and crocheted tops that recall communal 1970s living in Laurel Canyon, California, or the more gothic-inspired looks of the TikTok trend labelled \"whimsigoth\", the influence of retro bohemia on 2023 style is undeniable. And it's those who weren't even close to being born when the look's go-to soundtrack – Fleetwood Mac's Rumours – was released in 1977, who are digging it the most. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EHaving \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2021\u002F12\u002F23\u002Fstyle\u002Fgen-z-fashion-1990s.html\"\u003Emined 1990s fashion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for all it's worth, Gen Z are now going further back in time for inspiration. \"Younger generations have a penchant for all things nostalgic, and love looking to older style icons and influencers,\" says Heather Ibberson, retail analyst at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fedited.com\u002F\"\u003EEdited\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who has been tracking the rise of the 70s boho trend in recent months. She says its mix-matched aesthetic appeals to a generation that has embraced vintage and second-hand fashion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EIt is also the Daisy Jones effect. Taylor Jenkins Reid's 2019 novel Daisy Jones & the Six, which tells the story of the rise and fall of a fictional 70s band – heavily inspired by Fleetwood Mac – saw sales soar during lockdown, thanks to readers sharing their love for it on TikTok. Earlier this year, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230307-daisy-jones-the-six-a-wild-tale-of-rock-n-roll-excess\"\u003Emuch-anticipated TV adaptation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the book aired on Prime Video and created even more of a frenzy on the platform (the hashtag #daisyjonesandthesix has 1.3bn views) – with the show’s fashion as much of a draw as its storyline.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's a throwback to an earlier, pre-computer time, where everything was just a little more natural and organic – Denise Wingate","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThe show's outfits are the work of costume designer \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fdenise_wingate\u002F?hl=en\"\u003EDenise Wingate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E who, besides having 30 years' experience working in film and television, also toured with The Bangles as their stylist in the early 80s. \"This was my dream job,\" she tells BBC Culture. \"When I read [Jenkins'] book I knew I had to do it. I was born and raised in LA, very involved in the music scene, I just felt it was my era. I knew the world.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EWingate was adamant she didn't want it to look like a \"70s costume party\". \"My original vision boards were all based on real people very much of the Laurel Canyon era and very documentary style.\" The mountainous neighbourhood of Laurel Canyon in the Hollywood Hills region of Santa Monica became an epicentre of countercultural attitudes in the mid to late 60s and early 70s, and was home to many of LA's rock musicians. Inspiration for the TV series' costumes came from pictures of The Mamas and Papas, Frank Zappa, Cher, Linda Ronstadt and Fleetwood Mac. \"Of course, we were influenced by Stevie Nicks,\" she says. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fwqzc9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Daisy Jones & the Six","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThe goal was a look that was vintage yet contemporary. \"I felt like it would be introducing a whole new generation to an era they may not even be aware of, or at least of the fashion, and I wanted kids to be able to say 'Wow, I want to look like that'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAccording to research by Edited, Pinterest searches for \"retro 70s fashion\" peaked in the week following the show's premiere. Fashion brand Free People launched a special Daisy Jones & the Six collection, while Levi's produced a denim halter top – inspired by a similar item worn in the show – which quickly sold out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EWingate has been overwhelmed by the reaction to the show from young fans, who tag her on social media with their own takes on the looks. \"They send me pictures on Instagram and send me their TikTok videos where they'll do this little fashion show with one of the songs.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EWhy does she think the 70s look still strikes such a chord? \"I think there's a nostalgia with the music and I think maybe it's a throwback to an earlier, pre-computer time, where everything was just a little more natural and organic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThe story's lead character Daisy, played in the show by Riley Keough, is the archetypal free-spirited woman, who lives life on her terms – and has a wardrobe that's just as exciting and eclectic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGo your own way\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"The 1960s and 1970s have been highly romanticised in the press and in people's minds, with the music playing a key role in the nostalgia for that time,\" says Helms. \"The rock stars, the women, the fans, all of their fashions – there is an inherent coolness and seeming authenticity. They all seem more real and more authentic than the highly styled celebrities of today.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fwqxp9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Taylor Swift","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EBohemian or boho fashion has its roots in the hippy movement of the late 1960s. \"Informed by the 19th and early 20th-Century obsession with the adventurous young adults from the US and UK who ventured to North Africa or the old Silk Road, bringing back with them exotic-seeming traditional garments,\" says Helms. \"Once home, they mixed these items with jeans and antique clothes picked up at markets, creating a ragbag, ethnic aesthetic that marked them as not being part of 'normal' society – through their clothes, music and lifestyle they were forming a counterculture. Their clothing choices were a visible sign to the rest of society of their beliefs – politically, socially, environmentally.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EWhat started out as an act of rebellion and individuality soon became mainstream, influencing designers and mass market manufacturers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EIn the 70s, stars like Stevie Nicks put their own spin on the look – with a style described by the LA Times as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.latimes.com\u002Fentertainment-arts\u002Fmusic\u002Fstory\u002F2020-09-30\u002Fstevie-nicks-fleetwood-mac-solo-concert-film\"\u003E\"an amalgam of goth hippie, bohemian Californian girl and Victorian priestess\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EIt's an aesthetic that's since influenced Florence Welch, and also Taylor Swift – who has been wearing a selection of Stevie-esque, floaty chiffon dresses for the Folklore section of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.harpersbazaar.com\u002Fuk\u002Ffashion\u002Ffashion-news\u002Fg43362580\u002Ftaylor-swift-era-tour-wardrobe-fashion\u002F\"\u003Eher current Eras tour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003ENicks is also a big inspiration for the \"whimsigoth\" trend that took hold on TikTok last year and is still going strong – a look that blends 70s bohemia with more gothic influences from the 80s and 90s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"Whimsigoth is looking to the more witchy trends of the 1990s, which in turn were inspired by Stevie Nicks' whole style oeuvre – from her late 1970s more ballerina-inspired styles to the witchy romanticism of 1983's The Wild Heart album to the more ornate Victorian witchiness of Stevie in the late 1980s and 90s,\" says Helms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EWith all these looks, there's an element of dress-up that's appealing to new generations, says Ibberson. \"With aesthetics like whimsigoth, and there's also grunge fairycore which is quite similar, they all have this whimsical element. I think that's what draws [Gen Z] to it. It's a lot more playful.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fwqxg0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Florence Welch","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EBut there could be a deeper connection, too. Stevie Nicks' gravitation towards anything black and flowing meant she was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapnews.com\u002Farticle\u002Fa845b02ef7626cc247b376ce977cbb73\"\u003Eforced to deny she was a witch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – but has always been open about her love of all things magical and mystical, something she has in common with Gen Z, who are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.genzinsights.com\u002Fgen-z-and-astrology\"\u003Edriving growth in the crystal and astrology markets\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. They're also chasing some of the same recreational highs as their 70s' counterparts, with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2022\u002F08\u002F23\u002Fhealth\u002Fmarijuana-psychedelics-young-adults.html\"\u003Euse of psychedelic stimulants and marijuana soaring in young adults\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"The 70s is obviously the hippy era and associated with this feeling of free spiritedness and love, and the younger generation today definitely have an interest in spirituality, as well as living more sustainably,\" says Ibberson.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"People in Laurel Canyon [in the 1970s] who didn't have a lot of money, they were going to the vintage stores or raiding their grandma's closet","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThrifting has always been a part of the boho look, even back in the 70s. \"We forget that people in the 70s were wearing vintage clothes too, they were buying things in antique stores and flea markets,\" says Wingate, who scoured markets, vintage shops and online sites like Etsy and Poshmark when sourcing the outfits for Daisy Jones & The Six.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"A lot of the stuff I used on Riley, who plays Daisy, is from the 20s and 30s, these kimono gowns and beautiful velvet bed jackets, which were falling apart but that to me was realistic. People in Laurel Canyon who didn't have a lot of money, they were going to the vintage stores or raiding their grandma's closet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcf-assets-tup.thredup.com\u002Fresale_report\u002F2023\u002FthredUP_2023_Resale_Report_FINAL.pdf\"\u003EResearch by thredUP\u003C\u002Fa\u003E shows that the secondhand clothing market in the US grew at five times the rate of standard retail last year, with online resale the fastest growing sector of the market – largely driven by Gen Z. The cost of living is a major factor for buying preloved garments today, but Ibberson says it's also about wearing outfits no one else has. \"There are cheap fast fashion brands, but what you're getting is the same thing that everyone will be wearing. The attraction of thrifting is that individuality.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fwr5gv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Stevie Nicks","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EHelms isn't convinced that eco-consciousness is driving the trend. \"Personally, I feel that this plays quite a small part – overall people are primarily attracted to the aesthetic and the majority desire to achieve that aesthetic through whatever means necessary, meaning that fast fashion contributes most of the garments worn in creating boho, festival looks.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAuthentic garments or not, it seems there's something undeniably attractive about tapping into a past era that seemed simpler – particularly when viewed through rose-tinted spectacles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"Maybe it wasn't, but something always seems better in retrospect, especially if you haven't lived it,\" says Wingate. \"Even for the kids that are too young to remember it, it seems like the good old days. There's so much division in the world and so much drama now, maybe there's something about looking back at an easier time where it was just sex, love and rock 'n' roll.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on-14"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fthe-collection"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-06-26T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Why the boho, rock-goddess aesthetic lives on","headlineShort":"Why the rock-goddess look lives on","image":["p0fwqwzw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Taylor Swift","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Taylor Swift","promoImage":["p0fwqwzw"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":["tag\u002Ffashion"],"summaryLong":"From Stevie Nicks to Taylor Swift and \"whimsigoth\", the boho, rock-goddess aesthetic is an enduring look, writes Clare Thorp.","summaryShort":"From Stevie Nicks to Taylor Swift, the floaty rock-goddess aesthetic endures","tag":["tag\u002Ffashion","tag\u002Frock-music","tag\u002Ffeatures"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-06-25T23:00:50.13746Z","entity":"article","guid":"1bc7a509-57c4-4794-b86f-242b019382c3","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on","modifiedDateTime":"2023-06-25T23:00:50.13746Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-why-the-boho-rock-goddess-aesthetic-lives-on","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150453},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs","_id":"6494d9b7122e041b0a5b97fd","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Farwa-haider"],"bodyIntro":"How the Cuban Missile Crisis inspired It's a Small World, and a cat tune sung by Peggy Lee had racist undertones – Arwa Haider traces the unexpected stories behind a century of Disney classics, decade by decade.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMusic has always been the true key to the Magic Kingdom. Around a century ago, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.euppublishing.com\u002Fdoi\u002Ffull\u002F10.3366\u002Fsound.2018.0117\"\u003EWalt Disney declared his musical ethos to his team\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \"We should set a new pattern, a new way to use music – weave it into the story so that somebody doesn't just burst into song.\" Disney music feels woven into our life stories, too; its vast repertoire seeps into our consciousness from infancy; it casts a spell through our adulthood. It is simultaneously in-the-moment and timeless.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E - \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230113-martin-luther-king-day-the-song-that-changed-the-us\"\u003EThe song that changed the US\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E - \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20221109-i-will-always-love-you-the-power-ballad-that-changed-music\"\u003EHow a 90s ballad captivated the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E - \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220907-why-jennifer-lopez-is-hollywoods-most-underestimated-star\"\u003EHollywood's most underestimated star\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESometimes, the force of Disney's sound and vision is unexpectedly intense. My first ever cinema trip was to watch a reissue of Disney's Fantasia, but my mum had to carry me out midway, because my terrified toddler screams were drowning out the classical score. A generation later, I inadvertently traumatised my own son by taking him to watch Frozen II; he was spooked by the eerie echoes of Elsa's voice singing Into the Unknown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Disney marks its centenary, it's impossible to contain its musical legacy within a single volume or performance; the ongoing \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.disneytickets.co.uk\u002Fdisney-100-the-concert-tickets\"\u003EDisney 100 live tour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E features numerous classics – including The Jungle Book, The Lion King and Moana – but the songbook continually evolves, studded with emotional hooks. At five, I was mesmerised by the music and Technicolor visuals of Dumbo: especially the hallucinatory Pink Elephants on Parade, and the heart-rending Baby Mine (where Dumbo's shackled mother cradles her son through prison bars); decades later, it still makes me sob. When a Disney song hits, it never quite leaves you.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDisney music courses through genres – and can ride roughshod over cultural references; some details jar, even in the prettiest melodies. It is snappy and sophisticated; sweetly sentimental yet full of peculiar twists; here's a selection of dark sides and unexpected backstories from every decade to date.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fwn0db"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E1. Minnie's Yoo-Hoo (from Mickey's Follies, 1929)\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EArguably the first Disney \"banger\" (and the first Disney song to be released on sheet music), this serenade to Mickey's sweetheart was penned by Carl Stalling and Walt Disney for an animated short – some claim that Disney himself provided Mickey's squeaky croon here. The overall effect is cute and creepy (\"When it's feedin' time for the animals\u002F And they howl and growl like the cannibals\"), with a psychedelic bendiness that also evokes that era's Fleischer Studios cartoons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E2. Someday my Prince Will Come (from Snow White and the Seven Dwarves, 1937) \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EThe first ever full-length animated feature film delivered several hit tunes (composed by Frank Churchill and Larry Morey), as well as the original dreamy Disney Princess archetype. This yearning ballad seals the audience's bond to Snow White; unfortunately, it also locked young voice actress Adriana Caselotti into the role, and she was apparently \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnews.google.com\u002Fnewspapers?id=gZVGAAAAIBAJ&sjid=FvgMAAAAIBAJ&pg=1286,587896&dq=i+don-t+want+to+spoil+the+illusion+of+snow+white&hl=en\"\u003Erefused permission to star elsewhere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (she was named a Disney Legend in 1994, aged 77). The song also took flight as a jazz rendition, in some starkly different settings; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ft.com\u002Fcontent\u002F11a142be-42bd-11e6-9b66-0712b3873ae1\"\u003Ein 1943, it was performed in Theresienstadt Concentration Camp, by a collective known as Ghetto Swingers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Later, it was vividly reworked by jazz legends including Miles Davis, who named his 1961 album after the song.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E3. Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah (from Song of the South, 1946) \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EThis irrepressibly jaunty melody won an Oscar for best original song, as well as an honorary Academy Award for the talented black US actor\u002Fsinger James Baskett, in what would be his final film role, as Uncle Remus in Disney's live action\u002Fanimation feature Song of the South. Unfortunately, the film's luridly idealised plantation life and hierarchy makes it a deeply queasy period piece, and Song of the South has steadily faded from the Disney catalogue. The film's Br'er Rabbit folktales – and this song – also inspired the Splash Mountain log flume ride, which closed at the US Disney parks earlier this year, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Feu.usatoday.com\u002Fstory\u002Ftravel\u002Fnews\u002F2023\u002F05\u002F31\u002Fsplash-mountain-disneyland-closing\u002F70272290007\u002F\"\u003Ealthough there are currently no plans to close the attraction at Tokyo Disneyland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fwn5g5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E4. The Siamese Cat Song (from Lady and the Tramp, 1955) \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EA fleeting yet unforgettably weird number purred in broken English by US star Peggy Lee, in the guise of two devious Siamese cats. It took some years for the grotesque racial stereotypes to be called out (\"comedy foreigners\" were a mainstream entertainment staple until at least the 90s), but this song was replaced in Lady and the Tramp's live-action remake (2019) with the slinky What a Shame, sung by Nate \"Rocket\" Wonder and Roman GianArthur as a pair of mean Devon Rex felines. \"We took on the challenge gingerly,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvariety.com\u002F2019\u002Fmusic\u002Fnews\u002Fhow-lady-tramp-revamped-siamese-cat-song-disney-1203404658\u002F\"\u003EWonder admitted to Variety\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E5. It's a Small World (After All) (1964) \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EProlific sibling songwriters Robert B and Richard M Sherman composed many of Disney's most celebrated classics – including the soundtracks for Mary Poppins (1964) and The Jungle Book (1967) – and their cheery tunes formed a counterpoint to bleak realities (Robert had served as a teen soldier in World War Two). They originally wrote this candy-sweet anthem for the World's Fair, against the backdrop of the Cuban Missile Crisis. It's now likely to be \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftime.com\u002F82493\u002Fits-a-small-world-50th-anniversary\u002F\"\u003Ethe most publicly performed song in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, due to its continuous loop at the Disney parks; its eponymous ride remains an incredibly trippy experience, as you float through its cartoonish utopia, serenaded by hundreds of animatronic dolls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E6. Ev'rybody Wants to be a Cat (from The Aristocats, 1970) \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003ELouis Armstrong was reportedly approached for The Aristocats soundtrack, but declined due to poor health; Armstrong's influence is definitely felt in this hip, swinging jazz number, voiced by musician Scatman Crothers as leader of a band of alley cats. The vibe is bizarrely marred by the addition of another \"wacky\" Asian stereotype (a Siamese cat named Shun Gon, who plays piano with chopsticks), but this groove has inspired modern retakes, including trumpeter Roy Hargrove's excellent version on the 2011 compilation album Everybody Wants to be a Cat (also featuring Disney jazz covers from the likes of Dave Brubeck and Esperanza Spalding).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fwn460"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E7. Poor Unfortunate Souls (from The Little Mermaid, 1989) \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EThe Little Mermaid – and Alan Menken and Howard Ashman's soundtrack – is regarded as the Disney musical's modern renaissance. It's arguably the rebirth of the Disney princess – as well as the iconic Disney villain: here in the splendidly camp form of Ursula the Sea Witch (modelled on drag legend Divine, and voiced by Pat Carroll). This is Ursula's Gothic showstopper, convincing mermaid Ariel to sacrifice her voice for human love – and it's been variously reworked by Queen Latifah, the Jonas Brothers, Michelle Visage (for RuPaul's Drag Race), and Melissa McCarthy (in The Little Mermaid's recent live-action remake).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E8. Arabian Nights (from Aladdin, 1992) \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EThis award-festooned fantasy opens with an orientalist ditty (written by Menken and Ashman, and sung by Broadway star Bruce Adler), which drew protests from anti-discrimination groups. \"The song slanders an entire people,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.latimes.com\u002Flocal\u002Fobituaries\u002Fla-me-shaheen-aladdin-19921221-story.html\"\u003Ewrote Jack G Shaheen in the LA Times\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"The lyrics and successive scenes inform people that Arabs are not like us: they are uncouth.\" Post-release, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvariety.com\u002F1993\u002Ffilm\u002Fnews\u002Faladdin-lyrics-altered-108628\u002F\"\u003EDisney did amend two lines describing the Arabian setting\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (\"Where they cut off your ear\u002F If they don't like your face\"), though the dubious punchline remained: \"It's barbaric, but hey, it's home\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E9. He Mele No Lilo (from Lilo & Stitch, 2001) \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EHawaiian orphan Lilo's cuddly sidekick Stitch is a genetically engineered extraterrestrial escapee. Their unconventional family bond drives this animated feature (set to be the next Disney live-action remake); there's also a lot going on in this Pacific harmony, which plays over the opening scenes. Not only has this sequence led fans to speculate that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.buzzfeed.com\u002Faudreyworboys\u002Ftheres-a-disney-fan-theory-about-maui-and-lilos-parents\"\u003Ethere's a connection between Lilo and Disney's Polynesian heroine Moana\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it's both a beautiful melody and a culturally insensitive mash-up. As Nina Mantilla \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdigitalcommons.wcl.american.edu\u002Fcgi\u002Fviewcontent.cgi?referer=&httpsredir=1&article=1038&context=ipbrief\"\u003Enotes in her essay The New Hawaiian Model (2012)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \"Two mele inoa [sacred name chants], traditionally viewed as a source of Native Hawaiian pride, were performed as a single song and renamed… Disney subsequently copyrighted the song for the movie's soundtrack.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fwn69t"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E10. Do You Want to Build a Snowman? (from Frozen, 2013) \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis poignant song was almost considered too gloomy for Frozen – but it proved a stand-out (as much as the belting Let It Go). It also demonstrated songwriting couple Kristen Anderson-Lopez and Robert Lopez's forte for unusual blends – from showtunes to meditations on mortality (which would infuse their music for 2017's Coco). \"Each generation is learning about different parts of the human experience,\" Anderson-Lopez told me in a 2019 interview. \"I was a Psych and Theatre major; I approached storytelling with all of that knowledge of research on shame, what happens when doors of communication are closed, clinical ways that families in crisis can move forward. Songs like Do You Want to Build a Snowman? sung through a door, and Love Is an Open Door, are absolutely springing out of a post-'90s Psych background.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E11. We Don't Talk About Bruno (from Encanto – 21 languages version, 2021)\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EDisney has historically translated its hits for different territories, with an increasingly fine attention to detail; as musician and historian Alexander Rannie explains: \"They might reanimate certain moments for different countries to make sure that a joke lands… they do separate dubs for European Portuguese and Brazilian Portuguese\". In the digital age, we can easily access the global range of a mega-success like the Colombian-themed Encanto (with Lin-Manuel Miranda's wonderful soundtrack), which has been translated into 46 languages. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=3VqbiF3EBvA\"\u003EThis clip of Encanto's biggest anthem\u003C\u002Fa\u003E brilliantly showcases 21 of them – including English, Spanish, Hungarian, Dutch, Korean, Thai and more – without missing a beat: Disney music as a universal groove.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELove film and TV? Join \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002F440074069852291\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Culture Film and TV Club\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E on Facebook, a community for cinephiles all over the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs-8"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fcolumn\u002Fmusic"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-06-23T08:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The darker side of Disney songs","headlineShort":"The darker side of Disney songs","image":["p0fwn08l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":["tag\u002Fmusic-history"],"summaryLong":"Arwa Haider traces the unexpected stories behind a century of Disney classics, decade by decade.","summaryShort":"How the Cuban Missile Crisis inspired It's a Small World","tag":["tag\u002Fmusic-history","tag\u002Ffeatures"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-06-22T23:30:45.549891Z","entity":"article","guid":"9b426136-0608-492e-887f-e9dce62b9f21","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs","modifiedDateTime":"2023-06-22T23:30:45.549891Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230622-the-darker-side-of-disney-songs","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150454},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230621-klimts-lady-with-a-fan-the-painting-thats-valued-at-65m":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230621-klimts-lady-with-a-fan-the-painting-thats-valued-at-65m","_id":"64938835122e041ecf6a3e91","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fkelly-grovier"],"bodyIntro":"Left on Gustav Klimt's easel when the artist died in 1918, Lady with a Fan could be the most expensive painting auctioned in Europe, valued at £65m – but what makes it a masterpiece? Kelly Grovier explores its appeal.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Austrian Symbolist painter Gustav Klimt is best-known for the immortalising opulence of such milestones of modern art as his gold-leaf-encrusted canvases The Kiss, 1907-8, and Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer I, 1907. But it is a rather less famous work – one that was still sitting on the artist's easel when Klimt died from pneumonia as a result of the flu in February 1918, a month after suffering a devastating stroke that had left him partially paralysed and unable to paint – that is expected to fetch the highest price ever paid for a painting in Europe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sothebys.com\u002Fen\u002Fpress\u002Fgustav-klimts-final-masterpiece-dame-mit-facher-lady-with-a-fan-comes-to-auction-at-sothebys-in-london-this-june\"\u003Ewhen it is sold at auction next week\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Radically different in texture and tone from his better-known masterpieces of a decade earlier, the exquisitely enchanting Dame mit Fächer (Lady with a Fan), 1917-18, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-london-65895361\"\u003Eestimated to sell for upwards of £65m ($83m)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, seems plucked almost from another world, and points to where Klimt's imagination was heading had he not fallen victim to the influenza pandemic that was sweeping the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore like this: \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E - \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20200103-the-tragedy-of-arts-greatest-supermodel\"\u003EThe tragedy of art's greatest supermodel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E - \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20171018-the-works-too-scandalous-for-display\"\u003E10 artworks that caused a scandal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E - \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230324-from-gainsborough-to-hockney-the-300-year-old-pet-portraits\"\u003EThe 300-year-old pet portraits\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA wonder of interweaving patterns and mingled rhythms, Lady with a Fan captures a young woman lost in thought as she stands before us, staring askance into the faraway distance to our left. Her identity remains unknown. That she hasn't noticed our intrusion into the intimate space that she inhabits, bedroom or boudoir, seems clear enough from the unheeded slip of her ornate robe down her arm and the tentative hold that her fingers have on the folding fan that shields her breasts – a perilous prop that feels a flimsy flick away from falling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230621-klimts-lady-with-a-fan-the-painting-thats-valued-at-65m-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fwh01q"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230621-klimts-lady-with-a-fan-the-painting-thats-valued-at-65m-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhat holds us entranced by the woman's entrancement is the carefully choreographed clash of pattern, pigment and texture that fix her in this alluringly stylised elsewhere. The work is a vibrant inventory of Klimt's own cultural obsessions, from flowing Chinese robes to the floating lyricism of Japanese \u003Cem\u003Eukiyo-e\u003C\u002Fem\u003E woodcuts, both of which the artist collected and turned to for inspiration. Klimt's home, according to the Austrian expressionist Egon Schiele, whom Klimt mentored, was furnished with \"a large number of Japanese prints covering the walls\" and \"a huge wardrobe, which held his marvellous collection of Chinese and Japanese robes\". The rich silk of the young woman's green and gold striped robe, her porcelain complexion blushed with rouge, her chestnut curls, and the imagined flutter of the fan's vermillion leaves, all form a riot that is invigorated further by the chaos behind her.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis flattened background, which recalls the smooth dimensionalities of Japanese woodblocks and painted Chinese porcelain, could as easily be ornate wallpaper as the immaterial fabric of the daydreaming young woman's imagination. Here we find floating a mystical phoenix (or \u003Cem\u003EFènghuáng\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a symbol of grace and virtue in Chinese mythology) with fabulous emerald fangled feathers, as if fledged from the mystery of her mind. Opposite the phoenix, standing on the right of the canvas, boasting breast feathers of resplendent ultramarine, stands a long-legged crane, an emblem of wisdom and immortality, while all around the unreal air explodes with bright bursts of pink lotus flowers, signifying the immutability of beauty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230621-klimts-lady-with-a-fan-the-painting-thats-valued-at-65m-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fwgjz4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230621-klimts-lady-with-a-fan-the-painting-thats-valued-at-65m-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELady with a Fan is among the very few portraits by Klimt, a leading figure of the Vienna Secession art movement, to be owned privately. It was last sold in 1994, when it fetched $11.6m (£9m). Thirty years later, it is expected to command nearly seven times that, likely becoming one of the most expensive portraits ever to come to auction. If Sotheby's achieves the price it is asking, £65.5m ($83.4m), Klimt's final painting will soar past René Magritte's L'empire des Lumières, which sold for £59.4m ($75.6m) in 2022; Alberto Giacometti's Walking Man I, which set the record for any work of art sold at auction in Europe when it went in 2010 for £65m ($83m); and Claude Monet's Le Bassin aux Nymphéas, which sold for £40.9m ($52m) in 2008.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESet side-by-side with Klimt's better-known works, such as The Kiss and Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer I, Lady with a Fan reveals how far the artist had travelled creatively in the decade before his death. Gone is the audacious glitter of gold leaf that exalted his sensual subjects into secular icons. Far looser and more expressive in its brushstrokes, Lady with a Fan relies for its intensity on the blurring of textures, both material and psychological, as everything bleeds into a single scintillating substance. Intensifying that sense of unfixable fluidity are moments in the painting where the bare weave of linen canvas is still visible – unpainted patches that have led some to suspect that work was still unfinished. But this is a painting whose very power issues from flux and fragmentation. Its unfinishedness is what completes it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230621-klimts-lady-with-a-fan-the-painting-thats-valued-at-65m-4"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fcolumn\u002Fart"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-06-22T08:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Klimt's Lady with a Fan: The painting that's valued at £65m","headlineShort":"Europe's most expensive painting ever?","image":["p0fwgh1x"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":["tag\u002Fart-history"],"summaryLong":"Left on Gustav Klimt's easel when the artist died in 1918, Lady with a Fan has been valued at £65m – Kelly Grovier explores what makes it a masterpiece.","summaryShort":"Gustav Klimt's final masterpiece","tag":["tag\u002Fart-history","tag\u002Fnews-features"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-06-21T23:30:44.57529Z","entity":"article","guid":"6ac5ddd8-7126-4405-b06c-182e36209c1e","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230621-klimts-lady-with-a-fan-the-painting-thats-valued-at-65m","modifiedDateTime":"2023-06-21T23:30:44.57529Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230621-klimts-lady-with-a-fan-the-painting-thats-valued-at-65m","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150455},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230619-and-just-like-that-series-two-review-the-sex-and-the-city-sequel-is-still-annoying":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230619-and-just-like-that-series-two-review-the-sex-and-the-city-sequel-is-still-annoying","_id":"649310af122e041ee819232c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fcaryn-james"],"bodyIntro":"The show returns with Sarah Jessica Parker's Carrie as a widow and Cynthia Nixon's Miranda in Los Angeles. What is unlikely to change is its superpowered ability to get on viewers' nerves, writes Caryn James.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome shows make it too easy to throw their own lines back at them. During a blunt lunchtime conversation about sex, Carrie Bradshaw (Sarah Jessica Parker) compares a certain male bodily fluid to \"an old friend that gets on your nerves – I think I'd miss it if it were gone\". That also sums up the comfortable, unexciting And Just Like That… which returns for its second season despite a bumpy, divisive first round. The new episodes of the Sex and the City sequel do a smoother balancing act, as the series tries to move the characters forward while also satisfying fans who want the familiar group back. But the show is still a sometimes annoying and dull nostalgia-fest offset by clumsy dollops of self-awareness about living in the 2020s. Look at the way social media and entertainment news have run amok with word that Kim Cattrall, publicly disgruntled with her Sex and the City experience, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvariety.com\u002F2023\u002Ftv\u002Fnews\u002Fkim-cattrall-samantha-jones-and-just-like-that-season-2-1235629763\u002F\"\u003Ewould return\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as Samantha, even though she reportedly has \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnypost.com\u002F2023\u002F05\u002F31\u002Fkim-cattrall-makes-shocking-return-in-and-just-like-that-season-2\u002F\"\u003Ea single scene\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the new series, filmed apart from any other cast member. And the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=iHh1SkiptEk\"\u003Etrailers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have been ginning up anticipation for Carrie's former fiancé Aiden (John Corbett).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-12-of-the-best-tv-shows-to-watch-this-june\"\u003E12 TV series to watch this June\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230614-black-mirror-season-six-review-charlie-brookers-series-is-a-show-that-revels-in-its-twists\"\u003EOur verdict on the latest Black Mirror series\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E ­– \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-from-succession-to-hit-book-pineapple-street-stories-of-the-super-rich\"\u003EThe stories of the super-rich\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESeason two veers closer to the tone of Sex and the City. There is more sex in the same old fantastical New York, where there is always a handsome, eligible man around the corner and always a new book deal for Carrie to land her on the best-seller list and give her plenty of money for silly shoes. Of course, Big's death must have left her rich as well as widowed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther aspects of her life are different. Carrie is having no-strings sex with Franklyn (Ivan Hernandez), who produces her new podcast called Sex and the City. Even she wonders if the Sex and the City brand is too tired to survive. And her friend and former podcast partner Jackie (Bobby Lee) lectures her, \"The world has changed since you've been out there. It's not OK to objectify people anymore. Men have feelings too\". Like so much of the show, the line is true, mildly funny and all too blunt. It lands as a ploy to get out from under potential criticism before doing business as usual.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230619-and-just-like-that-series-two-review-the-sex-and-the-city-sequel-is-still-annoying-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"IFrame","iFrameCustomHtml":"\u003Ciframe width=\"100%\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fembed\u002FiHh1SkiptEk\" title=\"YouTube video player\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E","iFrameType":"customEmbedded","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230619-and-just-like-that-series-two-review-the-sex-and-the-city-sequel-is-still-annoying-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe new characters brought into the series work better this time around. Charlotte's friend, the documentary filmmaker Lisa (Nicole Ari Parker), Carrie's friend, the high-end realtor Seema (Sarita Choudhury) and Miranda's friend and former professor Nya (Karen Pittman) are now blended into the core friend group. They have their own plotlines and are more fully their own characters. Costume designers Molly Rogers and Danny Santiago have also given Lisa a sleek, high-fashion wardrobe in vibrant colours. She outdoes even Carrie's often elegant look these days; her tutu-wearing Sex and the City eccentricity behind her. But the added characters' plotlines are, in some cases, dead ends. One episode has all the friends dressing for the Met Gala, then doesn't let us see the Met Gala, one of the show's many teases that get on your nerves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith reassuring ease, Parker beautifully navigates the turns in Carrie's life, including the up and down pattern of grief and looking ahead, laced with her sardonic wit. Kristin Davis makes the improbable, indulged Charlotte seem believable as she deals with the challenges of raising two adolescent children. Lily is on the verge of having sex, while Rock is recruited for a possible Ralph Lauren advertising campaign. It's a nice, wry touch when Lily writes a song called \"The Power of Privilege\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230619-and-just-like-that-series-two-review-the-sex-and-the-city-sequel-is-still-annoying-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Poor, withering Miranda. For all her blathering about being brave and finding her true self, she has turned into a dithering, besotted, insecure and boring person","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230619-and-just-like-that-series-two-review-the-sex-and-the-city-sequel-is-still-annoying-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut then there is most derided storyline of all, Miranda's (Cynthia Nixon) romance with the non-binary stand-up comic Che Diaz (Sara Ramirez), sometimes called television's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thedailybeast.com\u002Fobsessed\u002Fand-just-like-thats-che-diaz-is-the-worst-character-on-tv\"\u003Eworst\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or most \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnypost.com\u002F2022\u002F01\u002F13\u002Fwhy-che-diaz-from-and-just-like-that-is-tvs-most-hated-character\u002F\"\u003Ehated\u003C\u002Fa\u003E character. Oh my, that is still a mess, a collision of abysmally-written people, who both now seem cobbled together in the writers' room.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMiranda has followed Che to Los Angeles, where they are starring in a television pilot for a sitcom called Che Pasa, which even they know is cheesy. It still seems that Che is meant to be talented and edgy, but that was never convincing. And when someone in a focus group for the pilot calls the television Che a \"phony, sanitized, performative\" version of what it is to be non-binary, it's a meta moment that nods at the real-life criticism without changing anything. Despite that, this season Ramirez shows some heart in Che, a self-acknowledged narcissist. But poor, withering Miranda. For all her blathering about being brave and finding her true self, she has turned into a dithering, besotted, insecure and boring person, in all seven of the episodes available for review (of the season's 11).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStill, fans are hungry for more, even if it’s the same old more. Take a breath on Aiden, though, he doesn't show up for quite a long time. After all her progress, if Carrie ended up in a back-to-the-future relationship with him that would be annoying, but getting on some viewers' nerves may be this series' superpower. Samantha Irby, a writer on both seasons, responded to criticism of the first \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002Finteractive\u002F2023\u002F06\u002F18\u002Fmagazine\u002Fsamantha-irby-interview.html\"\u003Ein a recent New York Times interview\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, saying, \"People will hate season two too, but they'll watch it\". The most astute prediction just came from inside the house.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E★★☆☆☆\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd Just Like That . . . premieres on 22 July on Max in the US and Sky Comedy and NOW in the UK\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELove film and TV? Join \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002F440074069852291\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Culture Film and TV Club\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E on Facebook, a community for cinephiles all over the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230619-and-just-like-that-series-two-review-the-sex-and-the-city-sequel-is-still-annoying-4"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-06-21T16:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"And Just Like That series two review: The Sex and the City sequel is 'still annoying'","headlineShort":"A show likely to get on viewers' nerves","image":["p0fw3c6j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The show is back with Sarah Jessica Parker's Carrie as a widow and Miranda in Los Angeles. What won't change is its ability to get on viewers' nerves, writes Caryn James.","summaryShort":"The Sex and the City sequel is 'still annoying'","tag":["tag\u002Ftelevision","tag\u002Ftv-review"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-06-21T15:00:46.344466Z","entity":"article","guid":"6a146f16-ac0c-4101-81de-7e58ba01edb5","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230619-and-just-like-that-series-two-review-the-sex-and-the-city-sequel-is-still-annoying","modifiedDateTime":"2023-06-22T11:10:49.592794Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230619-and-just-like-that-series-two-review-the-sex-and-the-city-sequel-is-still-annoying","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150455},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230615-asteroid-city-review-even-wes-anderson-fans-may-be-irritated-by-this-empty-and-cartoonish-film":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230615-asteroid-city-review-even-wes-anderson-fans-may-be-irritated-by-this-empty-and-cartoonish-film","_id":"649236b7122e041dfe6d90e8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fnicholas-barber"],"bodyIntro":"Set in a US desert town, the director's latest features perhaps his starriest cast ever, including Tom Hanks, Scarlett Johansson and many more. But they're wasted, writes Nicholas Barber.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThere's a trend on social media at the moment for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20211015-cinemas-most-misunderstood-filmmaker\"\u003EWes Anderson\u003C\u002Fa\u003E pastiches. There are AI-assisted trailers for horror and fantasy films done in Anderson's instantly-recognisable style, and on TikTok, creators are Wes Anderson-ing everything from their holidays to trips to the coffee shop. They all have the director's trademarks – the sans-serif block capitals, the colour-coordinated pastels, the symmetrical compositions, the polished dialogue delivered in deadpan fashion by a roster of faithful actors. But what most of them prove is that Anderson isn't so easy to imitate, after all. The likes of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20210712-the-french-dispatch-four-stars-for-wes-andersons-latest\"\u003EThe French Dispatch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and The Grand Budapest Hotel amount to a lot more than a handful of stylistic quirks. But I'm not sure that's true of his latest tricksy comedy, Asteroid City. This elaborate, empty confection proves that, however enthusiastically other people can caricature him, no one can do so more enthusiastically than he can.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230601-from-elemental-to-indiana-jones-11-of-the-best-films-to-watch-in-june\"\u003E11 of the best films to watch this June\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E ­– \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20211015-cinemas-most-misunderstood-filmmaker\"\u003ECinema's most misunderstood filmmaker\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201123-accidentally-wes-anderson-when-real-life-meets-film-fantasy\"\u003EHow the Wes Anderson look is all around\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThe film is set in a Southwestern American desert in 1955 – a bright orange desert, of course, surrounded by bright orange rock formations. There is a tiny town – Asteroid City – consisting of a motel, a garage, and rows of small white cabins. A meteorite landed there 5,000 years ago, and the resulting bright orange crater is the site of a government observatory. This town is now hosting a \"Junior Stargazers and Space Cadets Convention\", to which scientifically brilliant high-school students are invited to show off their inventions: a rocket pack, a ray gun, a device that projects images on to the moon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230615-asteroid-city-review-even-wes-anderson-fans-may-be-irritated-by-this-empty-and-cartoonish-film-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"IFrame","iFrameCustomHtml":"\u003Ciframe width=\"100%\" height=\"350\" src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fembed\u002F9FXCSXuGTF4\" title=\"YouTube video player\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen sandbox\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E","iFrameType":"customEmbedded","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230615-asteroid-city-review-even-wes-anderson-fans-may-be-irritated-by-this-empty-and-cartoonish-film-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThe parents of these teenagers include a recently widowed war photographer played by Jason Schwartzman, and a disillusioned movie star played by Scarlett Johansson. Also present are a verbose military bigwig played by Jeffrey Wright, a swaggering grandad played by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20210208-is-tom-hanks-part-of-a-dying-breed-of-genuine-movie-stars\"\u003ETom Hanks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a motel owner played by Steve Carell, a twittery astronomer played by Tilda Swinton, a mechanic played by Matt Dillon, and plenty more besides. If you want to do some stargazing of your own, Asteroid City certainly has a galaxy of stars for you.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EBeyond that, though... the setting is proudly synthetic and cartoonish (so cartoonish that there's even a cameo by a roadrunner), with skies, walls and trousers which are all the same shade of pale blue. The oddball characters' interactions are mannered and monotone. And the scenes are more like individual sketches than parts of an ongoing story. Meanwhile, such major events as an atom bomb test and a high-speed police chase are introduced and then ignored. Anderson's devotees and imitators may be delighted by these caprices, but irritation may set in for everyone else. And that's a mere taste of the quintessentially Anderson-ish kookiness in store.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230615-asteroid-city-review-even-wes-anderson-fans-may-be-irritated-by-this-empty-and-cartoonish-film-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EDirector: Wes Anderson\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ECast: Jason Schwartzman, Scarlett Johansson, Jeffrey Wright, Tom Hanks, Steve Carell, Tilda Swinton, Matt Dillon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ERun-time: 1hr 45m\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ERelease date: 19 May\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Asteroid City","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230615-asteroid-city-review-even-wes-anderson-fans-may-be-irritated-by-this-empty-and-cartoonish-film-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAnother of the film's conceits is that it isn't just a film. A black-and-white prologue, featuring Bryan Cranston as its frowning narrator, informs us that what we're about to see is a Broadway play. But, actually, we're not going to see the play, but a television show about the making of the play, which means that the main desert scenes are separated from the viewer by too many layers of artifice to count. Just when you're warming to the tentative romance between the photographer and the movie star, a card is slapped on screen informing you which scene of which act you are watching, or else the narrator wanders on to the set by accident, or the action shifts back to a black-and-white world where Edward Norton's playwright is auditioning Schwartzman's actor, and where Adrien Brody's director is living in a theatre because he has separated from his wife, Hong Chau. Oh, and Margot Robbie, Jeff Goldblum and Willem Dafoe turn up, too, the joke being, I suppose, that Anderson can persuade these A-listers to appear, even when he gives them next to nothing to do. At no point does he allow us to settle into any narrative in particular.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EYes, Asteroid City is ingenious and amusing, and yes, it's as meticulously designed as ever, but this perplexing pile of postmodernism seems intended to test the patience of the director's fans – to see how far he can venture away from human emotion and into arch, self-congratulatory whimsy before they give up on him. For the first time in his career, he's ventured too far for me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E★★☆☆☆\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELove film and TV? Join \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002F440074069852291\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBBC Culture Film and TV Club\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E on Facebook, a community for cinephiles all over the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230615-asteroid-city-review-even-wes-anderson-fans-may-be-irritated-by-this-empty-and-cartoonish-film-4"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffilm"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-06-21T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Asteroid City review: Even Wes Anderson fans may be irritated by this 'empty' and 'cartoonish' film","headlineShort":"A big disappointment from Wes Anderson","image":["p0fvf745"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Set in a US desert town, the director's latest features perhaps his starriest cast ever, including Tom Hanks and Scarlett Johansson. But they're wasted, writes Nicholas Barber.","summaryShort":"Our verdict on the director's latest, star-studded film Asteroid City","tag":null,"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-06-20T23:30:45.62278Z","entity":"article","guid":"0b6c1099-1f14-4cb3-b226-8da93a1efd7f","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230615-asteroid-city-review-even-wes-anderson-fans-may-be-irritated-by-this-empty-and-cartoonish-film","modifiedDateTime":"2023-06-20T23:30:45.62278Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230615-asteroid-city-review-even-wes-anderson-fans-may-be-irritated-by-this-empty-and-cartoonish-film","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150455},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world","_id":"64558a86122e041b0b650db8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fcath-pound"],"bodyIntro":"From a warm, lush haven of native plants to a wind-swept shoreline patch, gardens have the potential to nurture, educate and enchant us. The exhibition Garden Futures shows how, writes Cath Pound.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGardens are, more often than not, a tranquil place of refuge. However, they have always revealed much about the attitudes and priorities of the culture in which they were created. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.design-museum.de\u002Fen\u002Fausstellungen\u002Fdetailseiten-wanderausstellungen\u002Fgarden-futures.html\"\u003EGarden Futures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at Germany's Vitra Design Museum showcases a number of unique spaces that take a much broader approach to what they can be. Whether promoting biodiversity, making innovative use of precious green space to feed and nurture a community, or drawing inspiration from popular culture to create a private fantasy world, they reveal that gardens have the potential to nurture, educate and entertain, all the while dazzling us with the sheer wonder of nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230324-eight-ways-indoor-plants-can-improve-your-home\"\u003EEight ways plants can improve your home\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230120-five-ways-to-be-calm-and-why-it-matters\"\u003EFive ways to be calm and why it matters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201022-why-living-with-and-tending-plants-is-good-for-you\"\u003EWhy living with plants is good for you\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0flq933"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EJulien de Cerval, The Gardens of Marqueyssac, Vézac, France\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe picturesque gardens of the Chateau de Marqueyssac in Vézac are a classic example of the western formal garden, the style of which was perfected in France having initially been inspired by the Paradise gardens of Persia. In the 1860s the then owner of the chateau, Julien de Cerval, began planting thousands of boxwood trees which he had carved into elaborate, rounded shapes. The trees are complemented by over 6km of pathways, belvederes, rockeries and waterfalls. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough undoubtedly stunning, for many this type of garden was a symbol of aristocracy, and therefore disliked. Rich men owned gardens such as these; poor men worked in them. The gardens fell into disrepair in the second half of the century, but a new owner restored them and opened them to the public in 1997. They are now listed as a National Historical Monument.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0flq0fz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ES\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Eí\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Etio Roberto Burle Marx, Rio de Janeiro\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERoberto Burle Marx was one of the great landscape artists of the 20th Century. He is responsible for modernising Brazilian garden design but also made a major contribution to the protection of the rainforest with his research into native flora.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite being born and raised in Brazil, Burle Marx's first encounter with plants from the Amazon rainforest was at the Botanical Gardens in Dahlem, during a year and a half he spent in Berlin in the late 1920s. Frequently referring to the experience as an \"awakening\", he realised that the European-influenced gardens back home were virtually devoid of native species. He made it his mission to correct this anomaly, becoming an ardent defender of biodiversity in the process.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1949, he and his brother bought Sítio Santo Antônio da Bica, a farm on the outskirts of Rio de Janeiro, which would become a testing ground for his botanical and artistic research. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"He was really interested in primary research about the plants, and understanding what environment they would need to thrive, which plant went with which and how to propagate them and how to turn them into these amazing garden artworks,\" says Viviane Stappmanns, co-author of the book that accompanies the exhibition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt Sítio Santo, he was able to explore the colour combinations, shapes, textures, contrasts and perspectives that could be created with native plants before integrating them into his designs. During his lifetime, he and his team collected and cultivated more than 3,500 plants, many of which he discovered himself. So important was his work that Sítio Roberto Burle Marx is now preserved as a Unesco World Heritage site.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0flpzd4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EProspect Cottage Garden, Dungeness\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1986, the artist and filmmaker Derek Jarman was touring Southern England filming footage for an experimental film that would be titled The Garden. Stopping off at Dungeness in Kent, together with his partner Keith Collins and the actress Tilda Swinton, he came across Prospect Cottage, a small fisherman's hut that happened to be up for sale. Despite it being in the shadow of a nuclear power station and subjected to a hostile climate all year-round, Jarman was besotted. He bought the property and moved in, but tragically in December of the same year he was diagnosed with HIV.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJarman's desire to create a garden following the diagnosis, and on such unpromising land, has come to be seen as a determination to create life in the face of death. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt seemed impossible at first. Jarman's attempts to grow roses in the barren, stony soil failed miserably. But then he began to look for local species that had learned to endure the coastal winds and lack of rain. He found that plants such as seakale, gorse and poppies thrived there. These – together with lavender cotton, foxglove, thistle, lathyrus and flax – are what he grew among the shingle that surrounds the cottage, helped, it has to be acknowledged, by layers of compost buried beneath the surface. Pieces of driftwood and rusty metal form an idiosyncratic sculptural display at the rear of the cottage, adding to the sense of the garden as artwork.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter Jarman's death in 1994, the garden was cared for by Collins until his own death in 2018. A fund-raising campaign by the British Art Fund in 2020 ensured that the cottage and garden would be preserved, and it is now possible to visit by prior appointment. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0flpzw5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EJamaica Kincaid'\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Es garden, Vermont\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe garden of Antiguan-American novelist, academic and garden writer Jamaica Kincaid is not currently open to the public, although her admirers are able to catch glimpses of its verdant lusciousness on her Instagram account. It is undeniably beautiful, but Kincaid frequently uses it as inspiration to explore the hidden ugliness of global horticultural history. A history that, it is all too easy to forget, is frequently tied up with colonialism, cultural appropriation and displacement. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"She's addressing this thing that is slowly seeping into public consciousness. There are a lot of fashions around plants but often their cultural history can become neglected or eradicated along the way,\" says Stappmans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKincaid is aware that many of the plants she was most familiar with growing up in Antigua were not actually native to that country, breadfruit being a prime example. Although it is now synonymous with the Caribbean, it was introduced there as it was an easy-to-grow food for enslaved workforces.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe notes that the Spanish invader Hernán Cortés didn't mention the dahlias, zinnias and marigolds he likely saw in Montezuma's famous Aztec garden in the 16th Century and yet, she insinuates, Spain's brutal conquest of Mexico is why we are able to enjoy them in our own gardens today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Kincaid forces us to acknowledge, our ability to appreciate the beauty of the flora and fauna around us is often reliant on ugly events of the past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0flpzht"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ELiao Garden, Yangjiang\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPopular culture and gardening are not something we would usually think to put together. Yet it was the hugely popular computer game Age of Empires that provided the initial inspiration for Zheng Guogu's Liao Garden in his hometown of Yangjiang. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Guogu, an artist whose work explores the impact of digital technology and western culture on Chinese tradition and contemporary life, the garden seemed like a logical extension of his artistic practice. He began constructing the garden in 2005, basing it on the game in which players occupy land in order to create their own new worlds. Guogu dug canals, built houses, planted trees and even constructed mountains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver time the garden has evolved to include a Museum of the Wind, a series of open layers connected by staircases which, as the name suggests, exhibits nothing but the wind, a Frangipani garden (a plant rarely seen in Chinese gardens), and a landscape feature called a \u003Cem\u003Etianchi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E which includes more than a dozen layers, each containing a pool of water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGuogu has likened the garden to the Chinese private gardens of the past, such as the classical Suzhou gardens that encircle nature. \"You are inside and couldn’t care less about the outside. One should keep the spirit of tradition and not lose the spirit of the garden,\" he says.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0flpyq1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EKebun-Kebun Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKebun-Kebun Bangsar is a space in which the boundaries between park, allotment and community garden blur. Initiated by Kuala Lumpur-based landscape architect Ng Sek San and a group of volunteers, it makes innovative use of a seemingly unpromising space – a long strip of land under a power line. However, in a city that only has five sq m of green space per person – the WHO recommends 50 sq m – every spot is precious. Last year, the organisers \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thevibes.com\u002Farticles\u002Fnews\u002F65829\u002Fbusiness-as-usual-authorities-rescind-eviction-order-against-kebun-kebun-bangsar\"\u003Esuccessfully fought\u003C\u002Fa\u003E an eviction notice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFeeding underprivileged people was one of the primary objectives in starting the garden, as was teaching locals how to prepare for potential food insecurity by growing their own produce. When the pandemic happened in 2020, the situation they had been preparing for was suddenly upon them. There were shortages in the supermarkets, but the garden proved to be a plentiful source of supply.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPost pandemic, the garden continues to be a haven for families and volunteers, and in addition to providing food to local residents, it also plays a key role in waste management. Food scraps from the entire neighbourhood are turned into compost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESek San hopes the garden will be seen as a precedent, and that others will make equally innovative use of underutilised land in order to benefit their local communities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.design-museum.de\u002Fen\u002Fexhibitions\u002Fdetailpages\u002Fgarden-futures.html\"\u003EGarden Futures: Designing with Nature\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is at the Vitra Design Museum, Weil am Rhein, Germany, until 3 October 2023.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world-12"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fthe-collection"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-06T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Six extraordinary gardens around the world","headlineShort":"Six extraordinary gardens","image":["p0flq50x"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0flq50x"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":["tag\u002Fgardens"],"summaryLong":"From a warm, lush haven of native plants to a wind-swept shoreline patch, gardens have the potential to nurture, educate and enchant us, writes Cath Pound.","summaryShort":"From a warm, lush haven of native plants to a wind-swept shoreline patch","tag":["tag\u002Fgardens"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-05T23:00:05.74572Z","entity":"article","guid":"795b95cb-9f59-4d82-913b-9928e424371e","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-06T08:58:57.234509Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230505-five-extraordinary-gardens-around-the-world","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150455},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes","_id":"64752e85122e041ed131cb28","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fmatilda-welin"],"bodyIntro":"There's a growing cohort of people who believe in washing clothes less – or not at all. Matilda Welin talks to the 'no-wash' and 'low-wash' believers.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBryan Szabo and his team have spent hours poring over photos of well-worn jeans, including vintage fades with swathes of bleached fabric and high-contrast fades with knee-pit patterns of honeycomb as well as whiskers around the crotch area. Online, the team praises the community's top faders. \"This crotch repair is crazy good!\" they exclaim. Or: \"Subtle and even shades... A near-perfect balancing of... fade patterns with spectacular blue tones.\" This last one is the winner. For this is the judging of a competition; the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Findigoinvitational.com\u002F\"\u003EIndigo Invitational\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where people from across the world wear \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fashionbeans.com\u002Farticle\u002Fraw-denim-jeans-guide\u002F\"\u003Eraw denim\u003C\u002Fa\u003E jeans for a year. But the competitors are not only the top jeans faders in the world. They are also champions of something else: The denim low-wash. Since denim becomes softer when it’s soapy and wet, one of the keys to achieving high-contrast patterns is to avoid washing them. The strategy is followed by everyone from the members of a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmedium.com\u002Fmakers-mavericks\u002Fthe-no-wash-club-dc0597b0239f\"\u003Eno-wash club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fedition.cnn.com\u002F2019\u002F03\u002F21\u002Finvesting\u002Flevis-jeans-freezer\u002Findex.html\"\u003ECEO of Levi's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230331-the-rise-of-the-minimalist-wardrobe\"\u003EThe rise of the minimalist wardrobe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230324-eight-ways-indoor-plants-can-improve-your-home\"\u003EEight ways plants can improve your home\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230127-how-to-make-your-home-minimalist-but-also-comfortable\"\u003EThe rise of relaxed minimalism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Szabo, the low-wash habit began when he bought his first pair of raw denim jeans in 2010. Travelling from his native Canada to Europe, he brought his jeans for the six-month trip. \"It was a quirk about me that I had these stinky jeans,\" he tells BBC Culture. \"They smelled awful.\" In Budapest he met his future wife, and the jeans became a character in their relationship. \"My jeans would be in, like, a pile on the floor at the end of the bed,\" he remembers. \"You walked into the room, you could smell [them]... I was very fortunate that my wife was as interested in me as she was.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fr383x"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"jeans","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAmong the competitors in the Indigo Invitational, which starts its fourth year next January, more than nine out of 10 participants delay the first wash of their trousers until they have been worn 150 or 200 times, Szabo estimates. \"Some of these pairs, as it's coming up on the end of the year, I wouldn't want to handle up close,\" he says. \"They would probably smell wrong.\" A few of his raw denim friends go even further, abiding by what he calls a \"never-wash philosophy\". \"[For one of them], in very tight spaces like a small elevator or something like that, if the dude is wearing certain pairs you can smell it a little bit,\" he says. \"Some of his best faded examples are also displayed in jeans trade shows. [They have] an aroma... It's not an unpleasant smell, per se, but it's a smell.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInstead of turning to the washing machine, raw denim wearers learn other ways to care for their garments, like exposing them to UV rays (\"I call it the sun bath,\" Szabo says) or just airing them overnight. Szabo himself uses the washing machine, too. \"As soon as [my wife] can smell my jeans, she tells me, and they immediately go in the washroom.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Designer Stella McCartney caused headlines by detailing her low-clothes-cleaning habits","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJeans wearers are not the only people cutting down on laundry. In 2019, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Ffashion\u002F2019\u002Fjul\u002F07\u002Fstella-mccartney-its-not-like-i-am-here-for-an-easy-life\"\u003Edesigner Stella McCartney\u003C\u002Fa\u003E caused headlines by detailing her low-clothes-cleaning habits, telling the Guardian: \"Basically, in life, rule of thumb: if you don't absolutely have to clean anything, don't clean it. I wouldn't change my bra every day and I don't just chuck stuff into a washing machine because it's been worn. I am incredibly hygienic myself, but I'm not a fan of dry cleaning or any cleaning, really.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fr38m8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Stella McCartney","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOthers re-think their washing habits due to concerns for the environment or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.homesandgardens.com\u002Fkitchens\u002Fhow-to-save-money-on-laundry\"\u003Erising electricity costs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. (As for the denim bros, Szabo says most are driven by aesthetical concerns that are \"accidentally sustainable\".) Mac Bishop, founder of clothes company Wool & Prince, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fastcompany.com\u002F90359188\u002Fthe-next-big-thing-in-fashion-not-washing-your-clothes\"\u003Eexplains to Fast Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that he changed his focus on \"convenience and minimalism\", which resonated well with male consumers – \"particularly those who already disliked doing laundry\" – when he started promoting his women's brand, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Feu.wooland.com\u002F\"\u003EWool&\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Subjected to centuries of sexist laundry advertising, women would be less responsive to the idea of not washing their clothes, he theorised, and research backed him up, showing that, with women, environmentalism was a more effective reason to give. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the Wool& brand sells merino wool dresses with the help of a \"challenge\" where customers wear the same dress every day for 100 days. A common takeaway from challenge-takers is \"the decreased laundry that comes along with wearing merino daily\", according to Rebecca Eby from Wool&. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of Wool&'s customers is Chelsea Harry from Connecticut, US. \"I grew up in a house where you wash everything after one use,\" she tells BBC Culture. \"Towel after one use, your pyjamas after one use.\" One summer, Harry lived with her grandmother, who taught her to put her pyjamas under her pillow in the morning and wear them again the next night. Later, she met her husband, who, she says, \"hardly ever washes any clothes\". Then, during the pandemic, Harry started hiking. This is when things really changed. \"Obviously you can't shower after you've been hiking all day and you're sleeping in a hammock or tent,\" she says. Others in the hiking community recommended \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.exofficio.com\u002F\"\u003EEx Officio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E underwear, which can be worn over subsequent days or washed and dried quickly. Using this and other wool clothing, Harry discovered she could hike and backpack for days and still feel comfortable. \"Then,\" she says, \"I started to think: Why don't I do this in my everyday life?\" And that was that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EScents and sensibility\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHarry is not worried about smell. \"I trust my nose,\" she says. Wearing a new dress with a different wool blend, she \u003Cem\u003Ecan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E smell herself – something that never happens in her other dresses, she explains, even when she travels to tropical locations like the Middle East in summer. Like Szabo, she employs tricks to avoid a full wash: Airing the garment overnight, or spraying vinegar or vodka in the armpits. \"I absolutely love just, at the end of the day, hanging out my wool dress, my wool leggings, my wool socks,\" she says. \"That's what I do. I hang them up by the window, I take a shower, I have my Ex Officio underwear, and in the morning, I just put it all back on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We don't want people to think that they can't wash stuff because they're destroying the planet – it's about trying to get the balance right – Mark Sumner","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"One of the worst things that you can do to a garment, in terms of its durability, is wash it.\" So says Mark Sumner, a lecturer in sustainable fashion at the University of Leeds. During a wash, he says, garments can tear, shrink and lose colour. With his colleague Mark Taylor, Sumner studies how \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheconversation.com\u002Fuk-laundry-releases-microfibres-weighing-the-equivalent-of-1-500-buses-each-year-199712\"\u003Emicrofibres from household laundry end up in marine animals\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But while he says reducing the frequency of our clothes washing is the right choice for the environment, he doesn't advocate a complete washing machine moratorium.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We don't want people to think that they can't wash stuff because... they're destroying the planet,\" Sumner tells BBC Culture. \"It's about trying to get the balance right.\" Washing clothes is important for medical and hygiene reasons, he says, for example for people suffering from eczema who are trying to avoid irritation caused when our natural skin bacteria multiply inside our clothing. It's also important for people's self-esteem \"to not feel embarrassed about their clothes because they're dirty or smelly\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fr38bc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Washing","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you were planning to look to others to determine how often you should load up the washing machine, then think again. When it comes to laundry habits, say Sumner and Taylor, there are no averages: We all use different wash temperatures, wash cycles and combinations of colours and fabrics. And the scientists themselves face the same conundrums as the rest of us. \"I've been involved in textiles for 30 years now, I think,\" says Sumner. \"And I should know that I should be separating my cottons from synthetics, and my whites from my colours... But frankly, I haven't got time.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe best approach, it seems, is to be flexible. \"If your clothes don't smell, then don't bother [washing them],\" advises Sumner. \"And when you're going to wash them, be clear about what to do to get the garment clean, but in the most effective way.\" Wash things on lower temperatures, he suggests, or do a really short refresh cycle without any washing powder at all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBesides – washing your clothes too often eats up hours of your life. Who has the time? \"I'm really interested in sustainability and the environment and natural resource management,\" says Harry. \"But I'm also concerned with my time.\" Szabo is concerned with sustainability, too, but also has other reasons for opting out of overzealous cleaning habits. \"I've got other things to do,\" he says. \"I've got a dog to walk.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes-10"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fthe-collection"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-30T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The rise of the 'no-wash' movement","headlineShort":"The rise of the 'no-wash' movement","image":["p0fr38bc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Washing","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Washing","promoImage":["p0fr38bc"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":["tag\u002Fsustainability"],"summaryLong":"There's a growing cohort of people who believe in washing clothes less – or not at all. Matilda Welin talks to the 'no-wash' and 'low-wash' believers.","summaryShort":"There's a growing cohort that believes in washing clothes less – or not at all","tag":["tag\u002Fsustainability"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-29T17:40:41.137966Z","entity":"article","guid":"aab7abf4-988e-4bb8-9634-eb53ec4632ed","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes","modifiedDateTime":"2023-06-08T09:37:56.525173Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150456},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made","_id":"647fba87122e041e2642b3ba","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fkambole-campbell"],"bodyIntro":"With sequel Spider-Man: Across the Spider-Verse currently wowing audiences, Kambole Campbell reflects on a superhero series that, with its magnificent visuals, truly honours its source material.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThe new film Spider-Man: Across the Spider-Verse emerges in a rather different cinematic landscape than the one its predecessor, Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse, did five years ago. For the uninitiated, the animated Spider-Man series imagines that its central web-slinging hero, Miles Morales, exists within a vibrant \"multiverse\" of worlds where different incarnations of Spider-Man rule the roost. While the multiverse was novel back in 2018, it's a concept that has subsequently become a little played out within comic book films, in particular the movies of the Marvel Cinematic Universe. But they learned the wrong lesson from Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse – seeking out the multiverse's opportunities for a free-for-all of franchise possibilities, with different characters and different incarnations of characters able to be paired together at will, while passing over Into the Spider-Verse's real draw, which was its embrace of the visual idiosyncrasies of superhero comic books and using those in service of a fresh visual language. In Spider-Verse, a “multiverse” means, above all, a chance to break some rules rather than conform to formula.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230601-from-elemental-to-indiana-jones-11-of-the-best-films-to-watch-in-june\"\u003E11 of the best films to watch in June\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E– \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230330-superhero-films-is-this-the-end-of-the-road\"\u003EIs the superhero film dead?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220505-why-sam-raimis-spider-man-shows-whats-wrong-with-marvel\"\u003EWhy Sam Raimi's Spider-Man was one of a kind\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E The first film stood out for the way in which directors Peter Ramsay, Rodney Rothman and Bob Persichetti got their team to paint Miles' world, a fresh style borne from an incorporation of traditional animation techniques and comic book art into new technologies. Its often nostalgic evocation of these elements made Miles Morales, a relatively new character in the Marvel comic books, feel like he has always been around, every part as iconic as Peter Parker.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fsl47v"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EWhere other superhero movies might take a story, and maybe a famous composition or two, from the graphic source material, the teams of filmmakers and artists on both Spider-Verse films work in concert to bring the dynamism of comic books to life. The first Spider-Verse film drew acclaim for its combination of the language of animation and film with that of comic books. One such example can be seen in the use of onscreen written sound effects, like the classic Spider-Man sound \"thwip!\". Or its \"burst cards\" – 2D drawings that flash up amid the action for emphasis. Such moments feel briefly suspended in time, like you’re observing a panel of art come to life and blown up on the big screen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EIt’s rare to see comic book movies actually use the textures and tactile qualities of print; many noted its use of halftone, Ben-Day dots and \"Kirby Krackle\" (clusters of dots first used by revered comic book artist Jack Kirby to imply cosmic energy). In a number of interviews, Justin K Thompson – Into the Spider-Verse production designer, now Across the Spider-Verse co-director – highlighted the animation's embrace of the imperfections of print. Take the way in which the film's chromatic aberration \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vulture.com\u002F2019\u002F01\u002Fhow-spider-man-into-the-spider-verse-changed-animation.html\"\u003Erecalls the accidental colour separation and mismatches that would emerge from the four-colour printing process\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThrough its gargantuan team of artists and animators (numbering more than 1000), Across the Spider-Verse doubles down on the first film's exhilarating sensory overload, experimenting visually as well as narratively with what a Spider-Man story could be on screen. Every formal element of the previous film is even more prominent, as with the way some characters are animated \"on twos\" – at 12 frames per second of screen time – rather than \"on ones\" – at 24 frames per second, which is the standard for 3D animation. The resulting minuscule delay between frames creates an effect that feels like the movements of a flipping page.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut with the introduction of the character of Spider-Punk\u002FHobie Brown in the new film, voiced by Daniel Kaluuya, the animators do something even more dazzling. Here, different elements of the same character, who already looks like a zine cutout, all move at different speeds. Instead of just moving on ones or on twos, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fcgratzlaff\u002Fstatus\u002F1665548014600036362?s=20\"\u003Ehis body also moves \"on threes\" and his guitar \"on fours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" – true to his anarchic character, instead of evoking flipping pages, he’s like a bunch of pages being thrown at you. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Spider-Verse films are both true to the spirit of the medium of comics, and testament to the expressive potential of animation","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAcross the Spider-Verse also expands its palette to reflect the vastness of comic book artistry, using its kaleidoscopic journey into different universes in the multiverse to go further beyond the textures of the first, adding new and specific homages to different artists’ methods. The first we see is Gwen Stacy\u002FSpider-Woman’s universe, recalling the expressive brushwork of Robbi Rodriguez’s cover art on the 2015 Spider-Gwen comic to breathtaking effect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EIt's one way in which Powers, Dos Santos and Thompson pushed to incorporate the identity of even more artists into the film. To take other examples, the directors cited Spider-Man 2099 co-creator Rick Leonard’s inking techniques during visual development for the Spider-Man 2099 screen incarnation (voiced by Oscar Isaac), and the film's take on Ben Reilly, aka Scarlet Spider, channels artist Tom Lyle's original character designs while lovingly poking fun at the brooding of 1990s comics. If the first Spider-Verse was about channelling a love of the medium's traditional textures into its craft, Across the Spider-Verse looks across decades at how it has evolved. And through its narrative, it thinks about the need to continue changing, questioning ruthless conformity to superhero canon and years of tropes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EMeanwhile Across the Spider-Verse's main villain The Spot is a perfect expression of the films' embrace of the imperfections of the artist’s hand. Both him and Spider-Man 2099 maintain their underlying geometric sketch lines, hanging off them like an unfinished drawing, but Spot has the added insult that, with his white appearance covered in dark splotches, he looks like a page that someone spilled ink on. That sense of misshapenness is built into the character, who is driven by outrage at becoming a cruel cosmic joke, an accidental byproduct of someone else's adventure. As he and Miles bounce between the radically varied universes of the sequel film, it becomes clear that Across the Spider-Verse's visual non-conformity is thematic, an expression of Miles’s resistance to fitting within a narrative box that his schoolteachers and fellow Spider-People try to place around him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fsl4qm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003ESo often, contemporary superhero movies are content to lift storylines from comic books, with little of their spirit – but the Spider-Verse films really do honour the latter. This is of course not the only way to adapt comic books well. But as of right now, they feel like films that are both truest to the spirit of the medium of comics, and testament to the expressive potential of animation. That's because Spider-Verse’s visuals aren't just a complement to the story – they are part of the story. Indeed, they seem to have lit a fire under the right people in Hollywood, heralding a boom in varied, stylised approaches to animation in recent big releases like The Mitchells Versus the Machines, Puss in Boots: The Last Wish and the upcoming Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles: Mutant Mayhem (a few of which have some crew overlap with the Spider-Verse films).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThe two movies – which will be joined by a third and final Spider-Verse film, set to be released next March – are also a reminder that writers are but half of what makes a comic book. Remember the colourists, the pencillers and inkers, the letterers and cover artists – they have as much authority over the depiction of these characters as the writers do. While so many films solely treat comic books as containers for intellectual property, the Spider-Verse films have once again broken from formula, embracing the true potential of what a comic book movie could be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ESpider-Man: Across the Spider-Verse is out in cinemas internationally now.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELove film and TV? Join \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002F440074069852291\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Culture Film and TV Club\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E on Facebook, a community for cinephiles all over the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made-6"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffilm"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-06-07T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Why the Spider-Verse films are the greatest comic book movies ever made","headlineShort":"The best comic book movies ever made","image":["p0fsl4fj"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With sequel Spider-Man: Across the Spider-Verse currently wowing audiences, Kambole Campbell reflects on a superhero series that, with its visuals, truly honours its source material.","summaryShort":"How the Spider-Verse films truly capture the spirit of comic books","tag":null,"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-06-06T23:00:06.15285Z","entity":"article","guid":"87051cef-18f7-4df2-bbb9-5891f8bdfc79","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made","modifiedDateTime":"2023-06-06T23:00:06.15285Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-why-the-spider-verse-films-are-the-greatest-comic-book-movies-ever-made","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150456},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see","_id":"6459860d122e041ea602622f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fgaia-vince"],"bodyIntro":"Canadian photographer Edward Burtynsky discusses his startling and unexpectedly sublime photos – 'an extended lament for the loss of nature' – with Gaia Vince.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor more than 40 years, the Canadian photographer \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-striking-photos-of-human-scars-on-earth\"\u003EEdward Burtynsky\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has recorded the impact of humans on the Earth in large-scale images that often resemble abstract paintings. The writer Gaia Vince, whose book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguin.co.uk\u002Fbooks\u002F444202\u002Fnomad-century-by-vince-gaia\u002F9780241522318\"\u003ENomad Century\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was published in 2022, interviewed Burtynsky for BBC Culture about his latest project, African Studies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAfrican Studies is now \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.edwardburtynsky.com\u002Fprojects\u002Fbooks\u002Fafrican-studies-book\"\u003Ecollected in a book\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.flowersgallery.com\u002Fexhibitions\u002F557-edward-burtynsky-african-studies\u002F\"\u003Eon display at Flowers Gallery, Hong Kong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E until 20 May 2023.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGaia Vince: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EWith your pictures we see the results of our consumption habits or our lifestyles, in our cities. We see the results of that far, far away in a natural landscape made unnatural by our activities. Can you tell me about African Studies?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEdward Burtynsky: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EI was reading that China was beginning to offshore to Africa, and I thought that would be really interesting to follow. Overall it's been a decade-long project, researching and then photographing in 10 countries. I started in Kenya, and then Ethiopia, then Nigeria, and then I went to South Africa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm46wm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EI noticed that you went to the Danakil Depression in Ethiopia – tell me about that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAll our drone equipment wasn't working because we were 400 feet below sea level. So the drone GPS was saying: 'You're not supposed to be here. You're at the bottom of the ocean'. We had to turn off our GPS because we couldn't get it to calibrate, it didn't know where it was.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Danakil Depression is a vast area covering about 200km by 50km. It's known as one of the hottest places in the world and has been referred to as 'hell on Earth'. I've never worked in temperatures over 50C. At night, it was 40C – even 40 is almost unbearable. And we were sleeping outside because there are no buildings, there are no interior spaces. We spent three days there shooting; in the mornings we would get up and then drive as far as 25km to get to our locations. One such location was Dallol, a volcanic hellscape of sulfurous springs. Getting to it required that we carry all our heavy equipment while climbing jagged rocks for about 1.5km.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm46dz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIt's physically extremely demanding what you're doing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E was! Yeah, it is often and you're working with both the late evening light and the early morning light. So you're working both ends of the day and you really don't get a lot of rest in between that because to get to the location in the morning with that early light, you have to be up usually an hour and a half before that happens. But you do whatever you need to do. When I'm in that space, I'm just like, 'here's the problem, here's what I want to do, what's it going to take?'\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm46ww"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAfrica is the last big continent that has large amounts of wilderness left. Partly because of colonialism and other extractive industries from the Global North, the industrial revolution in Africa is happening now. So there's this juxtaposition between that wild landscape and these very synthetic landscapes that humans have created – how do you understand that yourself?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EThe African continent has a lot of wilderness left and there are a lot of resources, like the discovery of oil in Tanzania and northern Kenya and other places. There's a big rush for oil pipelines to be going in there. Particularly with China’s involvement, there are a lot of plays to build infrastructure in exchange for access to resources, whether it's farmland for food security, whether it's oil, yellowcake uranium, etc.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm47wv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's like economic colonialism. I don't think they want full control of these countries. They want an economic advantage, they want the resources and they want the opportunity those resources provide. For example, the Chinese own the largest deposit of uranium yellowcake in all of the African continent – I photographed that mine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EI also saw your incredible photographs from the shoe factory in Ethiopia. It looks completely transposed from China to Africa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm47yn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ESome of the photos were taken in Hawassa, which is a 200-acre Special Economic Zone, like Shenzhen in China. The Chinese built what they call sheds, which are more like warehouses. They built 54 of these sheds, with the roadway. So you can look at that picture – with the roadways, with the lighting, with the plumbing, with everything. All done, start to finish, 54 of these were built within one year – all the structures were brought by ship and then by rails into Ethiopia and erected like a Meccano set. And when I was there, they were filling these sheds with sewing machines and textile makers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm47xk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EThe industrial revolution started in England and the factories of the North, and still if we dig down, it's just completely polluted soils and landscapes, and then that was offshored to poorer countries and so on… That cycle is hitting Africa. But where is it going to be offshored next? We can't just keep offshoring. There isn't another place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EI often say that 'this is the end of the road'. We're meeting the end of globalisation and where you can go. And it has to leave China because they're gagging on the pollution. Their water's been completely polluted. The labour force has said: 'I'm not going to work for cheap wages like this anymore.'\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo instead the Chinese are training textile workers – mainly female – in Ethiopia, and Senegal, and within two or three months, those girls are behind sewing machines and on par with Chinese production rates and what they would’ve expected out of a Chinese factory. That's their goal. And they're training these young 16, 17-year-olds, taking them away from their families and then putting them right into the sewing machine sweatshop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm4828"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAt the heart of your images, they're very political, aren't they?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EWell, I've been following globalism but I started with the whole idea of just looking at nature. That's the category where I began, the idea of 'who's paying the price for our population growth and our success as a species?' Broadly speaking, it's nature. It's the animals, the trees, the prairies, the wetlands, the oceans – that's where the price is being paid, you know, and they're all being pushed back. These are all the natural environments on the planet that we used to coexist with, that we're now totally overwhelming in a way. So nature's at the core – and all my work is really kind of an extended lament for the loss of nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm486j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EDo you see yourself as holding up a mirror to the world as it changes, and as it becomes more human-dominated? Or do you see yourself as an activist – are you trying to prompt change?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EWell, I wouldn't say activist – somebody once mentioned 'artivist' and I liked that better. 'Activist' seems to lean more into the direct political discourse – I don't want to turn my work into an indictment, a two-dimensional kind of blunt tool to say, 'this is wrong, this is bad, cease and desist'. I don't think it's that simple.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI think all my work, in a way, is showing us at work in 'business as usual' mode. I'm trying to show us 'these are all actual parts of our world that are unfolding every day in order to support what is now 8bn people, wanting to have more and more of what we in the West have'. I understood 40 years ago, when I started looking at the population growth, and I got a chance to see the scale of production, that this is only going to get bigger. Our cities are only going to get more massive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI decided to continue looking at the human expansion, the footprint, and how we're reaching around the world, pushing nature back to build our factories, to build our cities, to farm – we live on a finite planet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm46yf"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGoing back to your original question, I think the term 'revelatory' versus 'accusatory' has always been something that I'm comfortable with, in that I'm pulling the curtain back and saying, 'Look, guys, you know, we can still turn this ship around if we're smart about it. But failing that, we're gambling. We're betting the planet.'\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EWhat do you think the odds are?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EThe Canadian environmental scientist David Suzuki once said it really well. He used the metaphor of Wile E. Coyote chasing the Road Runner – how all of a sudden the Road Runner can make a sharp turn but Wile E. doesn’t change course, he keeps going and runs himself right over a canyon. Suzuki said: 'We are currently over the air with our feet running. And the only question is, are we going to fall 10 feet or 500 feet?'\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm4kkg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EI think one of the things your pictures show us is that we are already falling. We don't see this destruction in our nice air-conditioned offices in the US or in London. We don't necessarily feel the shock of that fall. But for people who are living on the edge, who are living in the Niger Delta, for example, they're already very much experiencing this fall.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm4kq3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd I think that's something that your pictures really show. They bring a more planetary perspective, but they bring it in a way that we don't generally get to see. And one of the reasons for that is that they are genuinely a different perspective. There is a bird's eye view there, an aerial shot, so we see something that we might only glimpse in a news reel or an image in a travel book. They bring it in, in a way that you can somehow see that scale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm475v"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPhotography has the capacity to do that, if you understand how it works and how to use it. But we don't actually normally see the world that way, from above. If you look at a Peregrine falcon, they have the highest resolution of any retina of any animal in the world, and scientists are unpacking it to understand how to make sensors for cameras. In a similar way, photography makes everything sharp and present all at once. Seeing my work at scale, as big prints, you can walk up to them and you can look at the tire tracks and you can see the small truck or person working in the corner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm47nr"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EThat is the extraordinary power of your pictures – there is this huge scale. And at first, it's like an artwork – it looks artistic, abstract, perhaps a painting because you can pick out patterns. And then you start to realise: 'Actually no, this is something that's either natural or it's human made'. And then you realise these tiny little ants or these little markings are enormous stone-moving machines or skyscrapers or something really big. But you manage to bring that absolute precision and detail and focus into something that is really huge. How do you do that?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EBy and large I've used super high-resolution digital cameras for the singular shots. You can also lock drones up in the air, it'll hold the camera even if it's windy up there; it will constantly be correcting for being buffeted. And then with that precision, with that ability to hold it there, I can use a longer lens and do a group of shots of that subject. I'm controlling the high-resolution camera through a video on the ground – the camera could be 1000 feet away – and then I can carefully shoot all the frames that I need to later stitch together in Photoshop. Most of my work is single shots on high-resolution cameras. The camera I use now is 150-megapixel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-26"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm47l3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-27"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EYour pictures are very painterly – do you see yourself more as an artist or more as a photojournalist?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EI kind of walk that line. What I share with photojournalism is that there's a narrative behind it. There's a story behind it. I would say that I lead with the art but everything that I'm photographing is linked to this idea of what we humans are doing to transform the planet. So that's the overarching narrative, whether it's wastelands or waste dumps, mines or quarries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-28"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm47p0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-29"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EYou do also photograph some natural landscapes, there is this kind of recurring pattern that quite often what you photograph almost looks natural because it has those natural patterns in it like repeating circles from agricultural monocultures or irrigation patterns or the extraction patterns in quarries and delta sludge, all of that, it also has those repeaters in nature that occur in plants and in natural river systems. I really liked your landscapes from Namibia, these natural sandscapes with the ancient sculpting of the bone-dry landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EI'm leading with art, so I'm looking at art historical references, whether it's abstract expressionism or other shared ideas with painting. I'll look at a particular subject, then spend time on how to approach it. What am I going to link it into so that it appears in a way that has a signature of the work that I've been doing over time, and also shares in art history? If abstract expressionism never occurred as a movement, I don't think I would make these pictures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-30"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm4kvh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-31"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIt's almost a translation, you're seeing these system changes and you're describing it to people in their language, in a familiar language that they already understand from the culture that they know – different artistic movements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETo me, it's interesting to say, 'I'm going to use photography, but I'm going to pull a page out of that moment in history'. And if you look at it, throughout my work I'm pulling pages out of moments in history and saying, 'Oh, this is the 18th-Century direct, beautifully composed approach – a deadpan approach to photographing – for instance, the pyramids. I'm going to use that, because the shipbreaking yards in Bangladesh call for this approach.'\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-32"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm47g7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-33"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGV: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EI just wanted to talk to you about the idea – something that you're getting at with your images – this idea that we are living now in this human-changed world but nevertheless we are of course dependent on the Earth for everything and we're all interconnected. I wonder how far a photograph can go to explaining that extremely complicated 3D concept of interconnectedness?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEB: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EOne of the things that photography and documentary filmmaking can do is reveal these things again and again. It can show them, go to places where average people would normally not go, and have no reason to go, like a big open-pit mine. It can take you to the areas that we're all dependent on, oil fields and copper mines and cobalt mines. I think it's more compelling that way. People can absorb information better than reading – images are really useful as a kind of inflection point for a deeper conversation. I don't think they can provide answers, but they can certainly lead us to awareness, and the raising of consciousness is the beginning of change.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith my photography, I'm coming in to observe, and my work has never been about the individual, it's been about our collective impact, how we collectively rearrange the planet, whether building cities or infrastructure or dams or mines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAfrican Studies is now \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.edwardburtynsky.com\u002Fprojects\u002Fbooks\u002Fafrican-studies-book\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ecollected in a book\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and is \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.flowersgallery.com\u002Fexhibitions\u002F557-edward-burtynsky-african-studies\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eon display at Flowers Gallery, Hong Kong\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E until 20 May 2023.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see-34"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-09T08:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Edward Burtynsky's photos show the scars of human-altered landscapes","headlineShort":"17 photos of landscapes few can see","image":["p0fm7jq1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":["tag\u002Fphotography"],"summaryLong":"Canadian photographer Edward Burtynsky discusses his startling and unexpectedly sublime photos – 'an extended lament for the loss of nature' – with Gaia Vince.","summaryShort":"Edward Burtynsky on his startling and unexpectedly sublime photos","tag":["tag\u002Fphotography","tag\u002Finterview"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-08T23:30:03.958896Z","entity":"article","guid":"803d54df-d51f-44dc-94a3-1def6b48e1f8","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see","modifiedDateTime":"2023-06-08T14:05:50.988379Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-17-photos-of-landscapes-few-can-see","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150457},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol","_id":"64830372122e041ea54d4c15","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsay-baker"],"bodyIntro":"From the Royal Family to Glastonbury, the Barbour jacket – in all its slightly dishevelled glory – has come to symbolise Britishness. Lindsay Baker traces the life and times of an iconic garment.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt would be hard to imagine a more quintessentially British garment than the venerable Barbour jacket – the famed olive-green, wax coated, all-weather wardrobe staple beloved by the Royal Family. So it makes perfect sense that UK Prime Minister Rishi Sunak offered a personalised version of the iconic jacket to President Biden when the two met yesterday. As an offering it's a symbol of Britishness, and the pair's bromance – the jacket is customised, with the moniker \"Mr President\" embroidered on the front.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes\"\u003EThe rise of the 'no wash' movement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230403-the-story-behind-the-most-iconic-sneakers-of-all-time\"\u003EWhy are Air Jordans so valuable?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230512-how-the-naked-look-took-over-fashion\"\u003EHow the 'naked' look took over fashion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's a personal gift, and also a symbolic one. The high-end, family-owned Barbour brand is based near the PM's constituency in the Northeast of England and is a British institution. Mr Sunak himself is a fan and has been seen frequently sporting the brand. It was the late Queen and US movie icon and motorcycle enthusiast Steve McQueen who were at one point the two most iconic Barbour wearers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ft769n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Barbour menswear","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd the Barbour has become increasingly popular in US in recent years – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spectator.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fhow-the-barbour-cracked-america\u002F\"\u003Ean article in The Spectator\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by a US writer describes \"How the Barbour cracked America\". It has increasingly been seen on TV screens in episodes of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230321-succession-season-4-a-jaw-dropping-finale\"\u003ESuccession\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – sported mainly by the patriarch Logan Roy – Industry, and, most notably, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20221104-the-crown-series-5-review-gripping-but-badly-told-soap\"\u003EThe Crown\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The jackets over time develop a shabby patina, lending them a charmingly dishevelled character – there is traditionally a cachet attached to the well-worn Barbour","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETraditionally the brand is synonymous with the British upper classes, a horsey, hunting staple on a par with Land Rovers and Hunter wellington boots. It shares a similar cachet to Burberry or Harris Tweed – a signifier of class, history, heritage and quality. But the trajectory of Barbour is a nuanced one, and its appeal now much wider.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERural origins\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFounded by Scotsman John Barbour in 1894 in Newcastle's South Shields, the brand began strictly as utilitarian wear for the countryside, for hunting and fishing. There were pockets for storing gaming cartridges, the \"thornproof\" wax coating for scrambling through hostile brambly countryside, and some versions even have a capacious \"game pocket\" with enough space for an entire pheasant. Another style is cut short for easy horseback riding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe jackets over time develop a shabby patina, lending them a charmingly dishevelled character – there is traditionally a cachet attached to the well-worn Barbour. They also emit an unmistakeably musty odour, emanating from the wax coating.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ft76dc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Princess Diana","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 1972 Dame Margaret Barbour took over the family business and introduced new styles. And soon after, when the soon-to-be Princess Diana entered the public consciousness, the golden age of the Barbour followed. The young Lady Diana Spencer helped popularise the garment in the late 1970s and early 80s, and the jacket became a shorthand, go-to garment for the Sloane Ranger, which, like its preppy counterpart in the US, was becoming an increasingly recognisable tribe. The popular book The Official Sloane Ranger Handbook by Peter York and Ann Barr sealed the Sloane's unmistakeable identity. Diana in her Barbour and pearls was the Sloane poster girl.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's the re-loved aspect of the Barbour jacket that perhaps is the most significant of all in terms of its continuing relevance","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the Sloane ethos (polo, pearls, champagne, white privilege) fell from favour, it wasn't long before the Barbour look became fashionable again – this time via that bastion of Britishness, Glastonbury Festival; it soon became the unofficial uniform for muddy festival outings, often paired with wellies and a mini dress. In 2013 the willowy It girl and Glastonbury fan Alexa Chung collaborated with the brand to create jackets with an Alexa-style twist, and the partnership is ongoing – the most recent collection was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vogue.co.uk\u002Ffashion\u002Farticle\u002Falexa-chung-barbour-glastonbury\"\u003Einspired by Glastonbury\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the 1990s. Chung told Vogue last year: \"I suppose we're all hankering for a time before everything was performance, and my preoccupation with practical things worn with more frivolous things is on perfect display at a music festival.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2020, the brand made a bold transition from rural to urban when – like other \"heritage\" fashion houses – it dipped its toes into streetwear. The collaboration with skate label-turned influential fashion powerhouse Supreme, with a range of waxed cotton jackets and accessories, was a radical departure for Barbour – but somehow it worked. Another unlikely alliance came last year, when cool Scandi-chic label Ganni partnered with the heritage brand. The waxy cotton macs were adorned with a joint logo, and the check quilted coats and bucket hats that, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vogue.co.uk\u002Ffashion\u002Farticle\u002Fganni-barbour\"\u003Eaccording to Vogue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E present a \"cool-girl\" look. Ganni X Barbour also included a \"re-loved\" offering, comprising 50 upcycled and reworked jackets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ELong-lasting luxury\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's this re-loved aspect of the Barbour jacket that perhaps is the most significant of all in terms of its continuing relevance. The brand has recently launched its Wax for Life initiative, a service that will re-wax, mend or customise your existing Barbour. They are, after all, the jackets that last forever – the more beaten-up looking the better. The eco-conscious King Charles has worn his Barbour for decades; Queen Elizabeth wore hers for 25 years and refused a new one offered to her by the brand for her recent Jubilee. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ft76r4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Alexa Chung","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the Barbour HQ in Newcastle, an archive features jackets dating back over the decades. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.elle.com\u002Ffashion\u002Ftrend-reports\u002Fa41769910\u002Fbarbour-ganni-collaboration\u002F\"\u003Edirector of menswear Ian Bergin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E recently told Elle: \"The way the jackets have evolved from a design point of view, they're quite understated, so they're very wearable... Because intrinsically they're designed for a purpose, they tend to last a long time in terms of trend. So, they cut through that which I think is the biggest factor in [the sustainability] sense.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere is a sense of longevity and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230405-how-stealth-luxe-took-over-fashion\"\u003Equiet, understated luxury\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that goes hand in hand with Barbour's status as a family-owned business that has been passed down through the generations. From countryside English girl to urban skate kid; from the Queen to Steve McQueen; from the muddy, elite polo field to the muddy, egalitarian festival field; from 19th Century hunting and fishing to 21st Century upcycling, the all-encompassing Barbour has had quite a journey. It is the perfect soft power gift, hinting gently at many different, hard-to-define qualities – history, consistency, functionalism, longevity, family, modernity, coolness, sustainability – and a hopeful eye on the future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol-10"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fthe-collection"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-06-09T10:23:57.394Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"How the Barbour became the ultimate British symbol","headlineShort":"The jacket that symbolises Britishness","image":["p0ft77d0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Princess of Wales in a Barbour jacket","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Princess of Wales in a Barbour jacket","promoImage":["p0ft77d0"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":["tag\u002Ffashion"],"summaryLong":"From the Royal Family to Glastonbury, the Barbour jacket – in all its dishevelled glory – has come to symbolise Britishness. Lindsay Baker traces the story of an iconic garment.","summaryShort":"From the Royal Family to Glastonbury, how the Barbour jacket became iconic","tag":["tag\u002Ffashion","tag\u002Fbritain"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-06-09T10:48:01.570766Z","entity":"article","guid":"a386933a-737d-41be-841f-d90f94864c63","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol","modifiedDateTime":"2023-06-10T10:51:02.157047Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20230609-how-the-barbour-became-the-ultimate-british-symbol","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150457},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20171013-inside-the-most-lovely-and-quirky-homes-of-havana":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20171013-inside-the-most-lovely-and-quirky-homes-of-havana","_id":"6399d9ed122e040f463e3d65","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsay-baker"],"bodyIntro":"With an emphasis on mid-Century influences, along with Cuban ingenuity and flair, a new book Havana Living Today, by Hermes Mallea, explores the city’s most beautiful homes.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":["p05jvsvn"],"id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20171013-inside-the-most-lovely-and-quirky-homes-of-havana-0"}],"collection":["culture\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fdesigned"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-10-30T10:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Inside the most distinctive homes of Havana","headlineShort":"Havana’s most beautiful homes","image":["p05g77jy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p05g77jy"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With an emphasis on mid-Century influences, along with Cuban ingenuity and flair, a new book Havana Living Today, by Hermes Mallea, explores the city’s most beautiful homes.","summaryShort":"A surprising look inside some of Cuba’s most distinctive dwellings","tag":null,"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-04-30T14:49:21.51599Z","entity":"article","guid":"5cfc186c-d104-476f-80b7-c83d1de21ce9","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20171013-inside-the-most-lovely-and-quirky-homes-of-havana","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-24T12:03:10.238064Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20171013-inside-the-most-lovely-and-quirky-homes-of-havana","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150458},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom","_id":"6399d9fe122e0476111d8fb1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"How is the world of self-care and grooming bringing positive change? Bel Jacobs talks to the 'purpose-driven' creators who are making a difference – to mental health, communities and the planet.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERituals of beauty, wellbeing and self-care permeate cultures across history, encompassing ideas of identity and expression, transformation and restoration, cleansing and healing, culture and worth. From a nurturing new face cream to online meditation, beauty and wellbeing provide survival mechanisms, opportunities to take stock and rebalance during anxiety-filled times. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201207-how-rest-and-relaxation-became-an-art\"\u003EHow rest and relaxation became an art\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-inside-the-homes-of-remarkable-artists-and-writers\"\u003EInside the homes of remarkable artists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201113-why-gen-z-and-millennials-go-wild-for-vintage-clothes\"\u003EWhy buying vintage is 'the new luxury'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe pandemic has seen a spike in mental health issues – with 76 million more cases of anxiety, and 53 million more cases of depressive disorder, according to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef.org\u002Fpress-releases\u002Fimpact-covid-19-poor-mental-health-children-and-young-people-tip-iceberg\"\u003EUnicef \u003C\u002Fa\u003Eand Gallup. In troubled times, some beauty professionals have responded imaginatively. When A-list makeup artist\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.leepycroft.co.uk\u002F\"\u003E Lee Pycroft\u003C\u002Fa\u003E noticed rising stress levels among her clients, she retrained as a psychotherapist. She now offers combined makeovers and therapy. \"Makeupfulness\" is where makeup and mindfulness merge. \"Certain language techniques, active listening, reframes and questioning help a person calm down while I do their makeup, enabling them to think more clearly,\" Pycroft told \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.glamourmagazine.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fmakeupfulness-trend-merges-makeup-and-mindfulness\"\u003EGlamour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"I have witnessed women going through severe life challenges start to behave differently after a makeover and a chat. It might be that they go and do something kind for themselves, or are able to see their challenges from a different perspective as they have achieved some emotional flexibility around an issue.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Illustration grooming products","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2014, when Tom Chapman lost a friend to suicide, he launched the Lions Barber Collective, a barbering look-book project to raise awareness and funds for\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.glamourmagazine.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fworld-suicide-prevention-day-signs-how-to-help\"\u003E suicide prevention\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It's been joked about forever that hair pros are a cheap psychiatrist or counsellor, but in reality, we listen on average for 2,000 hours a year,\" he said. \"Imagine what we could achieve by training hair pros to be more successful in suicide prevention and mental health awareness.\" Working with psychiatrists, Chapman created the \"Barber Talk training\", enabling hair professionals to identify warning signs, ask the right questions, listen with empathy and, finally, guide those in need to the groups and resources that could help them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I've experienced first-hand the transformative power that formulations and treatments can have – Paul Gerrard","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis resonates deeply with Paul Gerrard, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhappypaul.co.uk\u002F#rec358045107\"\u003EHappy Paul\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a range of mood-enhancing male skincare. \"Happy Paul's journey has been like therapy,\" says Gerrard. \"I've suffered from depression since my early teens and I've experienced first-hand the transformative power that formulations, product and spa treatments can have. Yet wellness has become a luxury commodity afforded to the few.\" The brand was created, he says, to be accessible to all. \"To me, wellness is about looking after yourself, first and foremost, and that shouldn't be exclusive.\" Happy Paul's sustainable, vegan products – including an uplifting roll-on blend of bergamot, lemon and eucalyptus – encourage simple, rewarding acts of selfcare, with some of the profits going to mental-health charity Young Minds. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe pandemic is driving awareness and approval for more companies that support people and communities. Founded in 2018 by beauty writer Sali Hughes and beauty PR Jo Jones, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.beautybanks.org.uk\u002F\"\u003EBeauty Banks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E aims to tackle hygiene poverty in the UK and to establish being clean as a basic right. Young people can be particularly affected, say the duo, skipping school rather than going into class without washing their hair. Jones and Hughes had first-hand experience of the surplus the industry produces. Their plan: to ask their contacts to donate hygiene products to those in need via partnerships with more than 100 registered foodbanks, domestic abuse charities, homeless shelters, schools, NHS trusts and care-leaver associations. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Illustration beauty products","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We were furious and frustrated when we learned about hygiene poverty, so we decided to do something about it,\" writes Jones, on the charity’s website. \"Both Sali and I work in the beauty industry and know there is a lot of waste and, most importantly, a tremendous amount of generosity and kindness. So we leverage our connections, influence and skills to power Beauty Banks.\" An average delivery to a charity, catering for about 150 people, is worth around £500, and contains items many of us take for granted including soap and sanitary products. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd, as interest in self-care and community has soared, so too has concern for the planet. Successive reports about the climate and ecological crisis have put the global population on high alert and shoppers are asking serious questions about the things they buy every day. The beauty industry is a terrible offender: there are persistent issues of irresponsible sourcing and poisonous levels of ocean pollution, both via plastic packaging and the chemicals used in formulations. Some of our shampoos and shaving foams end up in oceans, and what’s bad for seabirds and coral is, perhaps unsurprisingly, bad for us.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe search is on for formulations and ingredients that protect and truly nourish, that work positively, not only for the bodies they're applied to but also the conditions in which they're grown and harvested. And For Weleda, founded in the 1920s by Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner and encompassing both beauty and naturopathic medicines, using biodynamic growing methods, the answer has always been clear: to go back to the source, back to nature. \"Natural ingredients work in harmony with the body, in a way petrochemical-derived synthetics do not,\" says Jayn Sterland, Weleda UK's managing director and chair of the British Beauty Council's Sustainable Beauty Coalition. \"A skin complaint is often a visible sign of imbalance. Applying a cream merely masks the problem. Using plant-based ingredients which are more skin compatible and work in harmony with the body can trigger our own healing capability.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Illustration bath","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELast year, in an effort to boost supplies of well-grown ingredients to the entire beauty sector, sustainable beauty brand Davines and the Rodale Institute launched a 10-hectare regenerative organic farm and research centre in Parma, Italy. \"You don't often think about where ingredients come from, and what the impact that production process has on our personal health and the health of the planet or the farmworkers,\" Rodale's chief executive Jeff Moyer told \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.voguebusiness.com\u002Fsustainability\u002Ffrom-farm-to-bottle-natural-beautys-next-step\"\u003EVogue Business\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, at the time. \"Expanding this idea [of regenerative agriculture] to go beyond just food and fibre is a great opportunity for all of us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA better world\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Sterland puts it: \"The holistic health benefits [of regenerative beauty] are well documented, both for the user and for the planet.\" And this is where the intersections between health, wellbeing and beauty start to take shape, and where the richest potential for beauty to have a positive impact on the world takes place. High street beauty brand Lush's technicolour windows and playful products belie the serious work that takes place behind the scenes. \"Biodiversity has always been important for us,\" says the brand's supply chain impact project manager Cadi Pink. \"One of our key strategies within sourcing, for example, has been to increase the diversity of materials we're using, in order to put less pressure on ecosystems [via industrial agriculture].\" The label has mapped out key \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fweare.lush.com\u002Fcreate-a-cosmetic-revolution-to-save-the-planet\u002F\"\u003Ebiodiversity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E hotspots around the world, where the brand is actively nurturing regenerative and agroforestry in practice. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Beauty illustration","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Sustainability initiatives often focus on minimising harm,\" adds James Atherton of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fweare.lush.com\u002Flush-life\u002Four-giving\u002Frefund\u002F\"\u003ELush Regenerative Fund, or Re:Fund\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Regeneration goes that extra step and asks: 'how do we add value and health to the ecologies and the social spaces that we're working in?' The opportunity now for the beauty industry is to align more on what we mean by regeneration,\" he continues. \"Often, we see it attached to tree planting or regenerative agriculture but there's this quote by [Brazilian trade union leader] Chico Mendes, 'environmentalism without class struggle is just gardening'. And I love that. We've always believed that, if you're working with grassroots communities, they are the experts. We're just there to offer support where we can.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne such community is the Laikipia Permaculture Centre, a collective of five Maasai women's groups, supported by the regenerative agriculture consultancy reNature, producing Aloe Secundiflora leaves for Lush in ways that combine traditional knowledge with the principles of permaculture. Aloe Secundiflora, originally used by the Maasai for healing and washing, can be processed into everything from shampoo and skin cream to shower gel. The women now produce their own cosmetics for the local market, which gives them additional income. As the demand for responsible beauty grows, harvesting natural ingredients well, with communities and nature in mind, will be vital.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The good news is that sustainable, ethical beauty – beauty that makes the world a better place – is set to surge","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe good news is that sustainable, ethical beauty – beauty that makes the world a better place – is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mintel.com\u002Fblog\u002Fbeauty-market-news\u002Fsustainable-skincare-in-2021-and-beyond\"\u003Eset to surge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.statista.com\u002Fstatistics\u002F673641\u002Fglobal-market-value-for-natural-cosmetics\u002F\"\u003E$34.5 billion in 2018 to $54.5 billion in 2027\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Alongside established names such as Weleda and Lush, a significant number of emerging dynamic brands are accelerating new futures in beauty with innovations in local ingredients, waterless formulas; even aiming at carbon neutrality. What makes these brands so right for these times is their holistic approach to beauty's problems, and their understanding that seemingly separate issues such as product formulation, social justice and environmental protection are fundamentally interlinked and connected. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDanish make-up brand Kjaer Weis is certified organic, working closely with its suppliers, while packing its products into smooth refillable, metal cases. BYBI invites customers to send back their skin booster bottles for them to be sterilised and used again. Wellness brand Haeckels, founded by beach warden Dom Bridges, harvests antibacterial seaweed from Margate beaches in the UK for its handmade skincare; its bottles are made from biodegradable algae; its outer packaging is grown from mushrooms. Brands including Pachamamai, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.boots.com\u002Fethique-pinkalicious-solid-shampoo-110g-10276256\"\u003EEthique\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Lush use condensed formulations to make solid bars, amplifying the efficiency of products while also reducing the need for unnecessary water in the mixtures (and the need for plastic bottles to hold those formulations).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"These purpose-driven beauty companies weave sustainability throughout their whole business, from sourcing and formulation through to independent product certification and paying employees a fair, real, living wage,\" says Sterland. For Lush, the potential of beauty to change the world is part of the brand's DNA. \"We very much see ourselves as campaigners,\" says spokesperson Jonnie Hatfield. \"It's not enough just to be against something any more. You really need to be making a difference.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-16T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Inside the ethical beauty boom","headlineShort":"Inside the ethical beauty boom","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Plant illustration","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Beauty illustration","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":[],"summaryLong":"How is the world of grooming and self-care bringing positive change? Bel Jacobs talks to the creators who are making a difference – to mental health, communities and the planet.","summaryShort":"How the world of self-care and grooming is bringing positive change","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-16T00:00:35.926537Z","entity":"article","guid":"761c6d2a-ee64-4261-937c-4ed53f4ad5d4","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-22T07:53:10.887977Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150458},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today","_id":"6399d9fe122e04620b7cf529","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"From Neolithic times to the latest high-rise architecture, it is a mysterious symbol. Beverley D'Silva explores how the infinite, twisting spiral has influenced artists, thinkers and designers for millennia.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThey are to be found everywhere – in the structure of a snail's shell or a pine cone, or the whorl of our fingerprints; in the shape of the Dean's Staircase at St Paul's Cathedral, or the exterior and interior of the Guggenheim Museum in New York; in the tusk of the narwhal – or, indeed, the unicorn; winding through the heart of our \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.space.com\u002F22382-spiral-galaxy.html\"\u003Egalaxy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and in the double helix of our DNA.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201207-how-rest-and-relaxation-became-an-art\"\u003EHow rest and relaxation became an art\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-inside-the-homes-of-remarkable-artists-and-writers\"\u003EInside the homes of remarkable artists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201208-cottagecore-and-the-rise-of-the-modern-rural-fantasy\"\u003EHow rural bliss became a modern fantasy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThe spiral is one of the oldest geometric shapes found in the ancient world – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.euppublishing.com\u002Fdoi\u002Fabs\u002F10.3366\u002Fgas.1993.18.18.11\"\u003Epetroglyphs of the symbols \u003C\u002Fa\u003Edate back to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fglobaljournals.org\u002FGJHSS_Volume16\u002F6-Did-the-Spiral-Engravings.pdf\"\u003ENeolithic period\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and they are one of the most common patterns in nature, found in the path of draining water or the eye of a hurricane.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Shell","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThere are various types, such as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fartsandculture.google.com\u002Fentity\u002Flogarithmic-spiral\u002Fm0bmlp?hl=en\"\u003Elogarithmic spiral\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, first described by Albrecht Durer in 1525; the Archimedean spiral, so called after the 3rd-Century BC Greek mathematician; Fermat's spiral; the helix and the vortex, to name a few. They're prevalent in man-made structures in art, design and architecture, both secular and sacred – such as the 9th-Century Great Mosque of Samarra or the Vatican Museum's spiral staircase.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAnd this mesmerising form is having a moment, with the imminent launch of what promises to be an iconic new skyscraper in New York. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dezeen.com\u002F2021\u002F05\u002F07\u002Fspiral-supertall-skyscraper-big-paul-clemence\u002F\"\u003EThe Spiral\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a 66-floor structure that tapers skyward at 66 Hudson Boulevard; its build cost, including site purchase, was $3.2 billion, and at just over 1,000-ft tall, it's one of the tallest buildings in the city. Open-air garden terraces snake around the building – these double-height atriums on each floor, according to the publicity information, make a \"unique hybrid that intertwines a continuous green pathway\" spiralling up.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EDominyka Voelkle, an associate at BIG NYC, the architecture firm behind The Spiral, tells BBC Culture that it has \"a very striking silhouette – modern and recognisable and yet very 'old New York', reminiscent of stepped, setback skyscrapers such as the Rockefeller Centre\". The wellbeing and mental health of occupants were integral to the brief; Spiral's biophilic design – which gives access to outdoor space and better indoor air quality – contributes to that. \"The design will help occupants to find tranquility in a busy environment – and the greenery is there to be calming or provide a little reboot,\" says Voelkle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003ETrees and plants have been \"acclimatised\" upstate before being transplanted to the harsher Manhattan climate prior to planting; providing they take well and flourish, Spiral will be \"the first of its type and the highest vertical garden in the world,\" says Voelkle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"For Louise Bourgeois, spirals were more than a symbol to toy with – they were embedded in her psyche","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EArtists across the ages have taken inspiration from spirals. Leonardo da Vinci used spirals in many of his drawings, such as those of molluscs, not to mention his double-helix spiral staircase at Chateau de Chambord in France. Meanwhile, Chan Hwee Chong, a contemporary Singapore artist, makes \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.behance.net\u002Fgallery\u002F2267302\u002FFaber-Castell\"\u003Eillustrations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of famous paintings including Da Vinci's Mona Lisa or Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring using a continuous spiralling line.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EFor \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tate.org.uk\u002Fart\u002Fartworks\u002Fbourgeois-spirals-al00346\"\u003ELouise Bourgeois\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, spirals were more than a symbol to toy with – they were embedded in her psyche, representing the birth, life and rebirth cycle, and sometimes in her work referencing motherhood. The late French-American artist recalled how the spiral – as a potent, occasionally violent, symbol – impressed on her from a young age, and her working life in her family's tapestry restoration business in Paris. \"The spiral is important to me,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.moma.org\u002Fmomaorg\u002Fshared\u002Fpdfs\u002Flouise_bourgeois\u002Flb_essay_2017.pdf\"\u003Eshe said in 1994\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It is a twist. As a child, after washing tapestries in the river, I'd turn and twist and wring them… Later I'd dream of my father's mistress. I'd do it in my dreams by wringing her neck.\" She said she loved the spiral, and it \"represents control and freedom\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThe spider is another frequent motif Bourgeois used; her monumental steel spider sculpture Maman dominated the Turbine Hall in London's newly opened Tate Modern in May 2000. Spirals and spiders loom large in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.southbankcentre.co.uk\u002Fwhats-on\u002Fart-exhibitions\u002Flouise-bourgeois-woven-child\"\u003Ea current show at London's Hayward Gallery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E featuring Bourgeois's fabric art. It includes a sculpture, Spiral Woman, a motif she returned to repeatedly, in which a woman's upper body is trapped in a spiral, like a giant spider's prey. Bourgeois described drawing as \"a secretion, like a thread in a spider's web.\" Katie Guggenheim, assistant curator of The Woven Child, notes that the artist was in psychoanalysis for 30-odd years, and referenced that throughout eight decades of her career. \"In fact, some of the works seem to be spiralling out of control into madness,\" she notes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Louise Bourgeois sculpture","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003ETaking the symbol into nature is Robert Smithson's Spiral Jetty, a giant spiral-shaped environmental artwork of 1,500ft by 15ft. Built with 6,000 tons of basalt at the mouth of a terminal basin in Great Salt Lake, Utah, where it will inevitably be eroded, it reflects Smithson's fascination with entropy. \"One could perhaps see it as a culturally collective symbol of the emergence of the feminine,\" notes the artist's website, which points out \"the spiral goes counter-clockwise, toward the unconscious\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThe Swiss psychiatrist and psychoanalyst Carl Jung, renowned for his work on symbols, archetypes and the collective unconscious, wrote: \"The spiral in psychology means that when you make a spiral you always come over the same point where you have been before, but never really the same, it is above or below, inside, outside, so it means growth.\" Jung visualised the unconscious process as moving \"spiral-wise round a centre, gradually getting closer, while the characteristics of the centre grow more and more distinct\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\"Serpent of energy\"\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EA fascination with consciousness and the psyche in the West no doubt contributed to the growing interest in meditation and yoga from the 1960s, such as the practice of kundalini yoga, in which the spiral plays a fundamental role: \"kundal\" is a Sanskrit word for spiral or coil, denoting a serpent of energy that coils up through the chakras. In the healing arts, a spiral represents connectivity to the divine. In Vortex healing, it is believed that a divine spiral energy is brought in through the heart to manifest healing and transformation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Vertigo, Jungle Book","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAround the same time, psychedelic art made good use of spirals and kaleidoscopic patterns to suggest the effect of hallucinogenic drugs and altered consciousness. This and the influence of psychoanalysis is clear in films such as Vertigo (1958) in which director Alfred Hitchcock uses spirals to suggest the \"downward spiral\" into insanity of his main protagonist, Scottie; from the opening credits, a spiral whirling in a graphic eye hypnotises us as a man in silhouette tumbles into a well of psychosis. A spiral staircase triggers Scottie's vertigo and the score, by Bernard Herrmann, was \"built around spirals and circles – of fulfilment and despair\", \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fold.bfi.org.uk\u002Fsightandsound\u002Ffilmmusic\u002Fdetail.php?t=d&q=42\"\u003Eaccording to film director Martin Scorsese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And spiral or concentric eyes are animators' shorthand for madness – or hypnosis, such as the sinister scene when Kaa the snake in Jungle Book hypnotises Mowgli in order to eat him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Spirals are enigmatic, which is perhaps why they lend themselves to interpretations that are, as Jung put it, \"cosmic\"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EA nobler intention was at the heart of a New-York based African-American collective, Spiral, formed in 1963, as a direct response to the march on Washington for jobs and freedom rally. Led by Romare Bearden, Norman Lewis, Charles Alston and Hale Woodruff, its 15 members aimed to address how African-American artists should respond to the US's changing political and cultural scene. They chose an Archimedean spiral because, \"from a starting point, it moves outward embracing all directions, yet constantly upward\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EEmma Amos, Spiral's youngest and only female member, died in May 2020. But the group is still celebrated: fashion designer Duro Olowu wrote in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vogue.co.uk\u002Farts-and-lifestyle\u002Farticle\u002Fduro-olowu-emma-amos\"\u003EVogue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of how he was \"captivated\" by Amos's use of bold, vivid colour, and her \"ability to powerfully challenge sexism and racism… By addressing sexism, racism and stereotypes around black feminism, her paintings offer the kind of resilience and optimism for change that is so important now\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EA spiral logo was recently chosen by the new creative director of luxury fashion house Chloe, Gabriela Hearst, to flag up its most exquisite artisan pieces. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vogue.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fgallery\u002Fchloe-ss22\"\u003E\"Spirals are in,\" declared Vogue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in response. \"A nod to circularity, perhaps? Nothing is a coincidence in Hearst’s world; helixes are next season's most coveted motif.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Spiral staircase at the Vatican","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAstronomer Edward Hubble narrowed down galaxies into four shapes: elliptical, lenticular, irregular – and spiral. Of all the galaxies scientists have so far discovered, most are of the spiral type, \"twisted collections of stars and gas that often have beautiful shapes\", according to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.space.com\u002F22382-spiral-galaxy.html\"\u003Espace.com\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The Milky Way – our solar system – is an \"elegant spiral structure dominated by just two arms wrapping off the ends of a central bar of stars,\" says \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsolarsystem.nasa.gov\u002Fresources\u002F285\u002Fthe-milky-way-galaxy\u002F\"\u003ENasa Science\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Spirals are omnipresent, enduring and infinitely fascinating, but they are also enigmatic, which is perhaps why they lend themselves to interpretations that are, as Jung put it, \"cosmic\". Like black holes, they remain one of life's mysteries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.southbankcentre.co.uk\u002Fwhats-on\u002Fart-exhibitions\u002Flouise-bourgeois-woven-child\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELouise Bourgeois: The Woven Child\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is at The Hayward Gallery, London until 15 May 2022.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-21T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The ancient enigma that still resonates today","headlineShort":"The ancient enigma that resonates now","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Spiral ceiling","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"culture","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Spiral ceiling","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":[],"summaryLong":"From Neolithic times to the latest architecture, it is a mysterious symbol. Beverley D'Silva explores how the spiral has influenced artists, thinkers and designers for millennia.","summaryShort":"From Neolithic times to today, it has been a mesmerising and mysterious symbol","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-21T00:00:47.714982Z","entity":"article","guid":"03ac9872-01ba-4eea-bc14-4735f0a3de02","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-22T07:52:43.797253Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today","cacheLastUpdated":1687844150459},"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters","_id":"6399d9fe122e0462114e8018","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Upcycling, visible mending and organising are among the ways fashionistas are giving their wardrobes a longer life. Bel Jacobs explores how caring for our clothes also means caring for the planet.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn her 2021 book Loved Clothes Last, Orsola de Castro, founder of the global campaign \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fashionrevolution.org\u002Fabout\u002F\"\u003EFashion Revolution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, issues a \u003Cem\u003Ecri de coeur\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. \"In my years of scouring second-hand clothing sorting warehouses I have seen hundreds of perfect pieces abandoned simply because of a broken zip. After all, what is the point of spending time and money repairing a broken zip when ultimately it is quicker, cheaper and infinitely more fun to buy a new piece, with a fully functioning zip? But can we please stop and consider what we are doing when we give up hope on the one that broke? And what happens when we choose to mend it instead?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMore like this:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220318-the-ancient-enigma-that-still-resonates-today\"\u003EThe ancient enigma that still resonates\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20220315-inside-the-ethical-beauty-and-self-care-boom\"\u003EInside the ethical beauty boom\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E- \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-inside-the-homes-of-remarkable-artists-and-writers\"\u003EInside the homes of remarkable artists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDe Castro's questions are just two of many confronting fashion in the 21st Century. It is increasingly hard to downplay the environmental and social damage the industry causes. Natural resource use rates are stratospheric, as are pollution and waste levels, while global supply chains are riven with exploitation. Finally, the sector is responsible for between two and eight percent of total \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.un.org\u002Fsustainabledevelopment\u002Fblog\u002F2019\u002F08\u002Factnow-for-zero-waste-fashion\u002F\"\u003Eglobal greenhouse gas emissions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, depending on which study you read. These are breathtaking facts, given that, after a certain point, this is an industry trading in non-essentials. Very few of us in fashion-consuming capitals around the world really need more clothes. Yet nonetheless, out they are churned, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcleanclothes.org\u002Ffashions-problems\u002Fwaste-and-pollution\"\u003Ebetween 80 to 100 billion pieces a year\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Planet Earth","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFashion is scrambling to meet the challenge with intricately researched roadmaps and reports that include a raft of plans to increase energy efficiency in supply chains, switch to renewables, invest in material innovation that sidesteps synthetics, ramp up social justice initiatives and address animal cruelty. But, while these efforts are well-meaning, they are pitted against an industry already megalithic in its impact. Most of those 80 to 100 billion items of clothing – a conservative estimate – already end up incinerated or in landfill after just a few wears. The pandemic delivered a blow; now, global fashion sales are on track to pick up momentum to just over 2019 levels, according to McKinsey Fashion Scenarios.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Where once our grandparents lived lives of thrift and repair, most consumers today have become acclimatised to a wear, break and chuck model","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIncreasingly, campaigners are arguing that one of the easiest ways of slashing fashion's impact is by buying less (far less, just three new pieces of clothing a year, according to campaign group Take the Jump), and by making the clothes we already own last longer. Basically, the fashion industry needs to shrink in size, substantially. For a generation of shoppers pumped up on constructed desires and instant gratification, this can be hard to envisage – but the figures are irrefutable. Research by environmental charity Wrap shows that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwrap.org.uk\u002Fresources\u002Fguide\u002Ftextiles\u002Fclothing\"\u003Eextending the life\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of an item of clothing by just nine months could cut its environmental impact by up to 10 percent; imagine what could be achieved over decades. Factors that contribute include buying good quality clothing, the willingness of owners to wear the same item over and over again, and their ability to take care of them. These may sound easy to achieve but if they were, we'd have done them already. Now, however, the stakes feel too frighteningly high not to try. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt has, after all, been just over a generation since we have lost the fine art of clothing maintenance. Where once our grandparents lived lives of thrift and repair, most consumers today have become acclimatised to a wear, break and chuck model. De Castro's perfect pieces with broken zips are symptoms of a profound disconnection from how clothing is made. But it is now more important than ever to ask why so much of our clothing is petroleum-based; whether the rayon in that jumper was sourced from ancient forests; what animal's fur has gone into that pom pom; why only a minority of garment workers are paid a living wage – and whether we still want a hand in driving all this destruction. De Castro subtitled her book \"how the joy of re-wearing and repairing your clothes can be a revolutionary act\". It's true. We need a revolution.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Orsola de Castro","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe first step is to re-encounter your own wardrobe; textile reuse charity Traid's 23 Percent Campaign was launched in 2019 to highlight the proportion of clothes Londoners left unworn in their wardrobes. Sam Weir is founder of Lotte.V1, a one-on-one styling service, aimed at rekindling our relationship to our clothing. \"Many of us don't use what we own because we've been taught to find style solutions through consumption,\" says the stylist, with a long track record in high-profile campaigns. \"Styling allows people to express themselves and have fun with clothing, without buying new; to push creativity and to truly wear their clothing. It's about learning to interact with fashion, outside of consumption, and it's forming relationships with our things.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhere do we start? \"Block off two hours one week and open up your wardrobe,\" she continues. \"Look for pieces you haven't worn in months or more. Maybe one is a formal blouse. This is where styling can help. Pair it with relaxed denim, something you'd only wear on a weekend. Add kitten heels and a blazer. Through styling, you've taken an item you've only worn in one setting, and made it work for countless others. Through creative styling, dresses can become skirts or tops; old becomes new again. It's as if you just went shopping, and yet you never left your wardrobe.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt helps if you've bought well to start with, says Mikha Mekler, lecturer in production management at London College of Fashion. \"The way we buy is the problem. If we buy quality, it lasts longer.\" Start by dodging fast fashion brands and their glossy, celebrity-laden advertising campaigns, and head straight for ethical labels that pride themselves on craftsmanship. Even then, check for yourself: the heft of an item and the quality of its details can tell you a lot. \"Test the garment,\" says Victoria Jenkins, garment technologist and founder of adaptive clothing label Unhidden. \"Pull it, tug on it, look at the stitching. Is it neat and tidy – or full of loose threads? Can you see 'grinning', where the thread is visible at tension points on the seam? Does the garment have hanger loops to stop it losing shape? Is there taping along a T-shirt shoulder to stop it from being distorted if it is hung up? Is the hem sturdy or can it be easily unpicked? Is there shading on the fabric; are there faults in the print beyond what you might expect?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Most sustainable clothing experts agree: wash clothes less – and wash them cooler","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe next step is care. In his 1954 essay Soap Powders and Detergents, semiotician Roland Barthes wrote about the use of foam – not strictly necessary in the cleaning process – in an advertisement for detergent: \"What matters is the art of having disguised the abrasive function of the detergent under the delicious image of a substance at once deep and airy which can govern the molecular order of the material without damaging it.\" The idea persists that washing somehow renews and refreshes but, in fact, as Barthes points out, it's quite destructive. Most sustainable clothing experts agree: wash clothes less – and wash them cooler, properly sorted, with gentle, natural laundry detergents, and inside out to prevent colour and prints fading.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2019, designer Stella McCartney put it best when \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Ffashion\u002F2019\u002Fjul\u002F07\u002Fstella-mccartney-its-not-like-i-am-here-for-an-easy-life\"\u003Eshe told The Observer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \"The rule is you do \u003Cem\u003Enot\u003C\u002Fem\u003E clean it. You let the dirt dry and you brush it off. Basically, in life, rule of thumb: if you don't absolutely have to clean anything, don't clean it. I wouldn't change my bra every day and I don't just chuck stuff into a washing machine because it's been worn. I am incredibly hygienic myself, but I'm not a fan of dry cleaning or any cleaning, really.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Garment care is still something people get wrong on a day-to-day basis,\" says Mekler. \"I wash a lot of garments, especially the finer things, even jeans, on a wool wash unless they're really dirty.\" Consider hanging lightly soiled pieces in the bathroom while you take a shower and allowing the steam to do the job. Avoid tumble drying; shake out your clothes and hang them out to dry. And then revel in the positive environmental benefits of your new routine. According to the EPA's energy efficiency programme \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.energystar.gov\u002Fabout\u002Forigins_mission\u002Fepas_role_energy_star\"\u003EEnergy Star\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the average washing machine uses 6,500 gallons of water a year, about half as much as you'd drink in a lifetime. Plus, every time we wash, we flush chemicals and microfibres from synthetic garments into overburdened waterways. Finally, most of the emissions produced during the \"in-use\" stage of an item's life cycle originate from washing and tumble drying. Cut that and you're basically a sustainable fashionista. \u003Cspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETo have and to hold\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce you've cleaned your clothes, resist the urge to throw them on the floor or ball them up at the back of the sofa. Correct storage does half the work of clothing care; top tips include keeping cleaned clothes away from sunlight and heat, in cool, dry spaces, with enough space between them to breathe. Professional organiser Katrina Hassan uses the KonMari Method of tidying. \"Awareness and positive habit change is at the heart of the process,\" she says. \"And a key principle is to store things so that you can see everything easily. When you know exactly what you own, you're far more likely to take care of it.\" Periodic assessments allow you to connect with your items and assess their quality over and over again. This is when it's time to start getting hands-on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Visible mending","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We’ve all put things away in a cupboard when a button has fallen off but it would be great if we could just do the basics like threading a needle, sewing on a button, mending a seam,\" argues sustainable consultant Tessa Solomons. \"[The lack of these skills] stops a lot of people at the first hurdle but these alone would save clothes being sent to landfill – or to charity shops where someone else has to deal with them. Plus, it gives you a great sense of achievement, to know that you've got that within your capability. It's a fantastic, joyful thing.\" There's no lack of online resources for the new sewer: both Repair What You Wear and Fixing Fashion Academy offer unintimidating video tutorials to entry-level skills; other sites such as The Clothes Doctor take it up a level with \"how to repair your bra\" and \"crochet a patch on jeans\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When you visibly repair something, it becomes individual. That changes our relationship to our clothing and builds connection with it – Tessa Solomons","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Watch videos specifically about what you want to mend,\" advises Solomons. \"And enjoy it. Get the things you need around you in one place. Put some lovely music on and take your time. Then it doesn't become a chore. It's a choice.\" Embrace visible mending, where people are encouraged to salvage their clothes in creative ways using contrasting coloured stitches, embroidered motifs and patching. Not only does it take the pressure out of trying to achieve perfection, it's fun. \"I've got a pair of dark blue trousers with a yellow button on them – because I couldn't find a dark blue button to replace the lost one,\" says Solomons. \"Now I just love that button. It changes the whole thing.\" Raeburn, a label based in London that focuses on responsible and innovative design, hosts a variety of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.raeburndesign.co.uk\u002Fpages\u002Fraeburn-lab\"\u003Eworkshops\u003C\u002Fa\u003E where attendees are invited to design and customise their own items, using off-cuts from the atelier. But if this still feels tricky, \"employ the services of someone who loves mending,\" says Solomons. \"There are many people out there who are changing the way we think about mending, one stitch at a time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERepair specialists at ethical high-street label Toast rescue any Toast garment as part of a free \"renewal\" service. Online Reture Bespoke pairs broken pieces with talented young upcyclers. Janelle Hanna, design consultant at sustainable sourcing consultancy White Weft, launched a service to patch and repair denim during lockdown. \"I've been blown away by how popular it's been,\" she says. \"People aren't coming to me with one or two pairs of jeans; they're coming to me with five or six pairs they've not worn for a year, two years, three years, but they just didn't want to throw them away. People want options around repairs. And they just didn't know that it existed.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Organised wardrobe","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"culture\u002Farticle\u002F20220329-how-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-lover-and-why-it-matters-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaking the decision to mend profoundly changes our relationship to a piece of clothing. \"When people choose to repair, they're investing in that item,\" says Solomons, whose own embroidery filips now decorate the clothes of dozens of clients. \"People come to me with items that have been in their wardrobes or in their families for a long time, that have had a life. When I add to that, they love it even more. That's everything to me.\" In a world of mass-produced goods, where thousands of items looking exactly the same pour out of factories, every minute of every day, promising ease and convenience, that's special. \"When you visibly repair something, it becomes individual,\" says Solomon. \"That changes our relationship to our clothing, and builds connection with it. The people who come to me have realised that their clothes have a value rather than a cost. And that value is something that we cannot put a price on.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe synergy with De Castro, the idea of the quiet revolution, is striking. \"Today, at the dawn of Generation Climate Breakdown, the #lovedclotheslast message we share when we mend and alter our clothes has gone beyond showing off sartorial originality,\" writes De Castro. \"It is now a statement that the act of caring for our clothes extends to the act of caring for our environment, and marks our gratitude by valuing the work of the people who make the things we wear.\" She continues: \"Keep the clothes you have with pride, minimise new acquisitions, and do it with the kind of infectious enthusiasm that radiates joy. Because the only things we need more of now are trees and whales and birds and bees – not clothes.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002FBBC-Culture\u002F237388053065908\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E page or message us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fbbc_culture\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAnd if you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called The Essential List. 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