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.gelicon--search::before { content: '\e009'; } .gelicon--print::before { content: '\e00b'; } .gelicon--print-invert::before { content: '\e00c'; } .gelicon--yes::before { content: '\e00d'; } .gelicon--no::before { content: '\e00e'; } .gelicon--add::before { content: '\e00f'; } .gelicon--help::before { content: '\e010'; } .gelicon--info::before { content: '\e011'; } .gelicon--alert::before { content: '\e012'; } .gelicon--expires::before { content: '\e013'; } .gelicon--duration::before { content: '\e014'; } .gelicon--alarm::before { content: '\e015'; } .gelicon--countdown::before { content: '\e016'; } .gelicon--grid::before { content: '\e017'; } .gelicon--chapters::before { content: '\e018'; } .gelicon--list::before { content: '\e019'; } .gelicon--listthumb::before { content: '\e01a'; } .gelicon--lock::before { content: '\e01b'; } .gelicon--unlock::before { content: '\e01c'; } .gelicon--home::before { content: '\e01d'; } .gelicon--new::before { content: '\e01e'; } .gelicon--vocab::before { content: '\e01f'; } .gelicon--degraded::before { content: '\e020'; } .gelicon--calendar-mini::before { content: '\e021'; } .gelicon--calendar::before { content: '\e022'; } .gelicon--mail::before { content: '\e023'; } .gelicon--location::before { content: '\e024'; } .gelicon--load::before { content: '\e025'; } .gelicon--settings::before { content: '\e026'; } .gelicon--embed::before { content: '\e027'; } .gelicon--external::before { content: '\e028'; } .gelicon--traffic::before { content: '\e029'; } .gelicon--refresh::before { content: '\e02a'; } .gelicon--link::before { content: '\e02b'; } .gelicon--point::before { content: '\e02c'; } .gelicon--upload::before { content: '\e02d'; } .gelicon--download::before { content: '\e02e'; } .gelicon--finder::before { content: '\e02f'; } .gelicon--stations::before { content: '\e030'; } .gelicon--untitled::before { content: '\42'; } .gelicon--untitled-2::before { content: '\43'; } .gelicon--quote::before { content: '\22'; } .gelicon--playlister-add::before { content: '\e031'; } .gelicon--calendar-30::before { content: '\e032'; } .gelicon--download-desktop::before { content: '\e033'; } .gelicon--map::before { content: '\e034'; } .gelicon--previous-alternative::before { content: '\e035'; } .gelicon--next-alternative::before { content: '\e036'; } .gelicon--arrow-down::before { content: '\e038'; } /* Media icons */ .gelicon--menu, .gelicon--live, .gelicon--subtitles, .gelicon--ws, .gelicon--sd, .gelicon--hd, .gelicon--bsl, .gelicon--ad, .gelicon--3d, .gelicon--tv, .gelicon--radio, .gelicon--mobile, .gelicon--desktop, .gelicon--game, .gelicon--tablet, .gelicon--quiz, .gelicon--guidance, .gelicon--record, .gelicon--listen, .gelicon--play, .gelicon--pause, .gelicon--rewind, .gelicon--forward, .gelicon--restart, .gelicon--image, .gelicon--document, .gelicon--slideshow, .gelicon--activity, .gelicon--360, .gelicon--podcast, .gelicon--newsletter, .gelicon--rss, .gelicon--fullscreen, .gelicon--expand, .gelicon--popout, .gelicon--mute, .gelicon--music-on, .gelicon--music-off, .gelicon--windows, .gelicon--apple, .gelicon--interactive { font-family: 'gelicons-media' !important; } /* Begin Icons */ .gelicon--menu::before { content: '\e900'; } .gelicon--live::before { content: '\e100'; } .gelicon--subtitles::before { content: '\e101'; } .gelicon--ws::before { content: '\e102'; } .gelicon--sd::before { content: '\e103'; } .gelicon--hd::before { content: '\e104'; } .gelicon--bsl::before { content: '\e105'; } .gelicon--ad::before { content: '\e106'; } .gelicon--3d::before { content: '\e107'; } .gelicon--tv::before { content: '\e108'; } .gelicon--radio::before { content: '\e109'; } .gelicon--mobile::before { content: '\e10a'; } .gelicon--desktop::before { content: '\e10b'; } .gelicon--game::before { content: '\e10c'; } .gelicon--tablet::before { content: '\e10d'; } .gelicon--quiz::before { content: '\e10e'; } .gelicon--guidance::before { content: '\e10f'; } .gelicon--record::before { content: '\e110'; } .gelicon--listen::before { content: '\e111'; } .gelicon--play::before { content: '\e112'; } .gelicon--pause::before { content: '\e113'; } .gelicon--rewind::before { content: '\e114'; } .gelicon--forward::before { content: '\e115'; } .gelicon--restart::before { content: '\e116'; } .gelicon--image::before { content: '\e117'; } .gelicon--document::before { content: '\e118'; } .gelicon--slideshow::before { content: '\e119'; } .gelicon--activity::before { content: '\e11a'; } .gelicon--360::before { content: '\e11b'; } .gelicon--podcast::before { content: '\e11c'; } .gelicon--newsletter::before { content: '\e11d'; } .gelicon--rss::before { content: '\e11e'; } .gelicon--fullscreen::before { content: '\e11f'; } .gelicon--expand::before { content: '\e120'; } .gelicon--popout::before { content: '\e121'; } .gelicon--mute::before { content: '\e122'; } .gelicon--music-on::before { content: '\e123'; } .gelicon--music-off::before { content: '\e124'; } .gelicon--windows::before { content: '\e125'; } .gelicon--apple::before { content: '\e126'; } .gelicon--interactive::before { content: '\e900'; } /* Social Icons */ .gelicon--share, .gelicon--recommend, .gelicon--comments, .gelicon--blog, .gelicon--smiley, .gelicon--love, .gelicon--twitter, .gelicon--facebook, .gelicon--google-plus, .gelicon--google, .gelicon--spotify, .gelicon--pinterest, .gelicon--tumblr, .gelicon--stumbleupon, .gelicon--linkedin, .gelicon--reddit, .gelicon--digg, .gelicon--instagram, .gelicon--whatsapp { font-family: 'gelicons-social' !important; } /* GEL */ .gelicon--share::before { content: '\e200'; } .gelicon--recommend::before { content: '\e201'; } .gelicon--comments::before { content: '\e202'; } .gelicon--blog::before { content: '\e203'; } .gelicon--smiley::before { content: '\e204'; } .gelicon--love::before { content: '\e205'; } /* THIRD PARTY */ .gelicon--twitter::before { content: '\e300'; } .gelicon--facebook::before { content: '\e301'; } .gelicon--google-plus::before { content: '\e700'; } .gelicon--google::before { content: '\e701'; } .gelicon--spotify::before { content: '\e304'; } .gelicon--pinterest::before { content: '\e305'; } .gelicon--tumblr::before { content: '\e306'; } .gelicon--stumbleupon::before { content: '\e307'; } .gelicon--linkedin::before { content: '\e308'; } .gelicon--reddit::before { content: '\e309'; } .gelicon--digg::before { content: '\e30a'; } .gelicon--instagram::before { content: '\e30b'; } .gelicon--whatsapp::before { content: '\e600'; } .mapboxgl-map { font: 12px/20px Helvetica Neue,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; overflow: hidden; position: relative; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); } .mapboxgl-canvas { position: absolute; left: 0; top: 0; } .mapboxgl-map:-webkit-full-screen { width: 100%; height: 100%; } .mapboxgl-canary { background-color: salmon; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive, .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass { cursor: -webkit-grab; cursor: grab; -moz-user-select: none; -webkit-user-select: none; -ms-user-select: none; user-select: none; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive.mapboxgl-track-pointer { cursor: pointer; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive:active, .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass:active { cursor: -webkit-grabbing; cursor: grabbing; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate, .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate .mapboxgl-canvas { -ms-touch-action: pan-x pan-y; touch-action: pan-x pan-y; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan, .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas { -ms-touch-action: pinch-zoom; touch-action: pinch-zoom; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan, .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas { -ms-touch-action: none; touch-action: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left, .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right, .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left, .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right { position: absolute; pointer-events: none; z-index: 2; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left { top: 0; left: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right { top: 0; right: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left { bottom: 0; left: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right { right: 0; bottom: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl { clear: both; pointer-events: auto; -webkit-transform: translate(0); transform: translate(0); } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left .mapboxgl-ctrl { margin: 10px 0 0 10px; float: left; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right .mapboxgl-ctrl { margin: 10px 10px 0 0; float: right; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left .mapboxgl-ctrl { margin: 0 0 10px 10px; float: left; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right .mapboxgl-ctrl { margin: 0 10px 10px 0; float: right; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group { border-radius: 4px; background: #fff; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty) { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); box-shadow: 0 0 0 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty) { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 0 2px ButtonText; box-shadow: 0 0 0 2px ButtonText; } } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button { width: 29px; height: 29px; display: block; padding: 0; outline: none; border: 0; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; background-color: transparent; cursor: pointer; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button + button { border-top: 1px solid #ddd; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { display: block; width: 100%; height: 100%; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-position: 50%; } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-color: transparent; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button + button { border-top: 1px solid ButtonText; } } .mapboxgl-ctrl button::-moz-focus-inner { border: 0; padding: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 2px 2px #0096ff; box-shadow: 0 0 2px 2px #0096ff; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled { cursor: not-allowed; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { opacity: .25; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button:not(:disabled):hover { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.05); } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:focus-visible { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 2px 2px #0096ff; box-shadow: 0 0 2px 2px #0096ff; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:not(:focus-visible) { -webkit-box-shadow: none; box-shadow: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:first-child { border-radius: 4px 4px 0 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:last-child { border-radius: 0 0 4px 4px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:only-child { border-radius: inherit; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23999'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-waiting .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { -webkit-animation: mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite; animation: mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite; } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23999'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23666'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @-webkit-keyframes mapboxgl-spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(0deg); } to { -webkit-transform: rotate(1turn); } } @keyframes mapboxgl-spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(0deg); transform: rotate(0deg); } to { -webkit-transform: rotate(1turn); transform: rotate(1turn); } } a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo { width: 88px; height: 23px; margin: 0 0 -4px -4px; display: block; background-repeat: no-repeat; cursor: pointer; overflow: hidden; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 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height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg opacity='.3' stroke='%23000' stroke-width='3'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20220311211311im_/https://www.bbc.com/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cg opacity='.9' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo.mapboxgl-compact { width: 23px; } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo { background-color: transparent; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 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fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 11h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23V8.22c.01-.13.1-.22.23-.22h1.4c.13 0 .22.11.23.22v.68c.5-.68 1.3-1.09 2.16-1.1h.03c1.09 0 2.09.6 2.6 1.55.45-.95 1.4-1.55 2.44-1.56 1.62 0 2.93 1.25 2.9 2.78l.03 5.2c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.8 0-1.46.7-1.59 1.62l.01 4.68c0 .13-.11.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.85 0-1.54.79-1.6 1.8v4.5c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23zm53.615 0h-1.61c-.04 0-.08-.01-.12-.03-.09-.06-.13-.19-.06-.28l2.43-3.71-2.39-3.65a.213.213 0 01-.03-.12c0-.12.09-.21.21-.21h1.61c.13 0 .24.06.3.17l1.41 2.37 1.4-2.37a.34.34 0 01.3-.17h1.6c.04 0 .08.01.12.03.09.06.13.19.06.28l-2.37 3.65 2.43 3.7c0 .05.01.09.01.13 0 .12-.09.21-.21.21h-1.61c-.13 0-.24-.06-.3-.17l-1.44-2.42-1.44 2.42a.34.34 0 01-.3.17zm-7.12-1.49c-1.33 0-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51 0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.42-2.52 1.33 0 2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51 0 1.39-1.08 2.51-2.42 2.52zm-19.865 0c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.42-2.48v-.07c.02-1.38 1.09-2.49 2.4-2.49 1.32 0 2.41 1.12 2.41 2.51 0 1.39-1.07 2.52-2.39 2.53zm-8.11-2.48c-.01 1.37-1.09 2.47-2.41 2.47s-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51c0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.4-2.52 1.33 0 2.39 1.11 2.41 2.48l.02.08zm18.12 2.47c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.41-2.48v-.06c.02-1.38 1.09-2.48 2.41-2.48s2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51c0 1.39-1.09 2.51-2.42 2.51z'/%3E%3C/defs%3E%3Cmask id='c'%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg stroke='%23fff' stroke-width='3' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20220311211311im_/https://www.bbc.com/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib { padding: 0 5px; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.5); margin: 0; } @media screen { .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact { min-height: 20px; padding: 0; margin: 10px; position: relative; background-color: #fff; border-radius: 3px 12px 12px 3px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover { padding: 2px 24px 2px 4px; visibility: visible; margin-top: 6px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover, .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover { padding: 2px 4px 2px 24px; border-radius: 12px 3px 3px 12px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib-inner { display: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib-inner { display: block; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { content: ""; cursor: pointer; position: absolute; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.5); width: 24px; height: 24px; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; border-radius: 12px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { bottom: 0; right: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { top: 0; right: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { top: 0; left: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { bottom: 0; left: 0; } } @media screen and (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media screen and (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib a { color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.75); text-decoration: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib a:hover { color: inherit; text-decoration: underline; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib .mapbox-improve-map { font-weight: 700; margin-left: 2px; } .mapboxgl-attrib-empty { display: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-scale { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.75); font-size: 10px; border: 2px solid #333; border-top: #333; padding: 0 5px; color: #333; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } .mapboxgl-popup { position: absolute; top: 0; left: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; will-change: transform; pointer-events: none; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top, .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left, .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right { -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom, .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left, .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right { -ms-flex-direction: column-reverse; flex-direction: column-reverse; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-left { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-right { -ms-flex-direction: row-reverse; flex-direction: row-reverse; } .mapboxgl-popup-tip { width: 0; height: 0; border: 10px solid transparent; z-index: 1; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; border-top: none; border-bottom-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: start; align-self: flex-start; border-top: none; border-left: none; border-bottom-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: end; align-self: flex-end; border-top: none; border-right: none; border-bottom-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; border-bottom: none; border-top-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: start; align-self: flex-start; border-bottom: none; border-left: none; border-top-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: end; align-self: flex-end; border-bottom: none; border-right: none; border-top-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; border-left: none; border-right-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; border-right: none; border-left-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-close-button { position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; border: 0; border-radius: 0 3px 0 0; cursor: pointer; background-color: transparent; } .mapboxgl-popup-close-button:hover { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.05); } .mapboxgl-popup-content { position: relative; background: #fff; border-radius: 3px; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); box-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); padding: 10px 10px 15px; pointer-events: auto; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-top-left-radius: 0; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-top-right-radius: 0; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-bottom-left-radius: 0; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-bottom-right-radius: 0; } .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer { display: none; } .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer * { pointer-events: none; -webkit-user-select: none; -moz-user-select: none; -ms-user-select: none; user-select: none; } .mapboxgl-map:hover .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .mapboxgl-map:active .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer { display: none; } .mapboxgl-marker { position: absolute; top: 0; left: 0; will-change: transform; } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot, .mapboxgl-user-location-dot:before { background-color: #1da1f2; width: 15px; height: 15px; border-radius: 50%; } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot:before { content: ""; position: absolute; -webkit-animation: mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite; animation: mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite; } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot:after { border-radius: 50%; border: 2px solid #fff; content: ""; height: 19px; left: -2px; position: absolute; top: -2px; width: 19px; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 3px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.35); box-shadow: 0 0 3px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.35); } @-webkit-keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse { 0% { -webkit-transform: scale(1); opacity: 1; } 70% { -webkit-transform: scale(3); opacity: 0; } to { -webkit-transform: scale(1); opacity: 0; } } @keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse { 0% { -webkit-transform: scale(1); transform: scale(1); opacity: 1; } 70% { -webkit-transform: scale(3); transform: scale(3); opacity: 0; } to { -webkit-transform: scale(1); transform: scale(1); opacity: 0; } } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot-stale { background-color: #aaa; } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot-stale:after { display: none; } .mapboxgl-user-location-accuracy-circle { background-color: rgba(29, 161, 242, 0.2); width: 1px; height: 1px; border-radius: 100%; } .mapboxgl-crosshair, .mapboxgl-crosshair .mapboxgl-interactive, .mapboxgl-crosshair .mapboxgl-interactive:active { cursor: crosshair; } .mapboxgl-boxzoom { position: absolute; top: 0; left: 0; width: 0; height: 0; background: #fff; border: 2px dotted #202020; opacity: .5; } @media print { .mapbox-improve-map { display: none; } } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .partner-module { border-bottom: 1px solid #472479; border-top: 0; } .partner-module__link, .partner-module__link:visited { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; color: #444; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; padding: 0; text-decoration: none; } .partner-module__link:hover { background-color: #f5f5f5; } .partner-module__heading { display: inline-block; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22px; margin: 16px 0; } .partner-module__partner-name { font-weight: bold; } .partner-module__partner-logo { display: block; height: 31px; margin: 12px 0; margin-left: 17px; width: 88px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .author-unit { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: -0.1px; line-height: 35px; } .author-unit--small-mobile { line-height: 30px; } .author-unit .author-unit__container { color: #4a4a4a; margin: 0 auto; } .author-unit .author-unit__container--desktop { margin: 0; } .author-unit__container { -ms-flex-align: baseline; align-items: baseline; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding: 10px 0; } .author-unit__text { font-style: italic; font-weight: 600; padding-right: 10px; text-decoration: none; } .author-unit__icon { color: #6a6a6a; padding-right: 14px; position: relative; text-decoration: none; top: 1px; } .author-unit__icon:hover { color: #00bbf2; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .uppercase-label { color: #8f8d8d; font-size: 12px; font-style: condensed; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 1px; line-height: 16px; margin: 0; padding: 0; text-transform: uppercase; -webkit-transition: color 0.4s; transition: color 0.4s; } .uppercase-label--small { font-size: 11px; font-weight: 400; line-height: 14px; margin: 0; } .uppercase-label--medium { font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; } .uppercase-label--reith-condensed { font-weight: 400; } .uppercase-label--white { color: #ebebeb; } .uppercase-label--light-grey { color: #999; } .uppercase-label--dark-grey { color: #444; } .uppercase-label--large { font-size: 16px; line-height: 18px; } .uppercase-label--true-white { color: #fff; text-shadow: 0 1px 1px #193e6d; } .uppercase-label--arial { font-family: Arial; } .label-with-line { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .label-with-line__label { margin: 0 16px 0 0; } .body-text-card-inline-video { margin: 24px 0; position: relative; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ @-webkit-keyframes spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(0deg); transform: rotate(0deg); } 100% { -webkit-transform: rotate(360deg); transform: rotate(360deg); } } @keyframes spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(0deg); transform: rotate(0deg); } 100% { -webkit-transform: rotate(360deg); transform: rotate(360deg); } } .spinner { fill: #444; } .spinner__image { -webkit-animation: spin 1s linear infinite; animation: spin 1s linear infinite; } .spinner--worklife { fill: #8beed9; } .spinner--future { fill: #ffc857; } .spinner--culture { fill: #472479; } .spinner--travel { fill: #002856; } .spinner--earth { fill: #002856; } .spinner--white { fill: #fff; } .spinner--audio { height: 32px; width: 32px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .inline-video { height: 100%; } .inline-video__container { position: relative; } .inline-video__border-line { padding: 0 10px; } .inline-video .play-button__inline-video { bottom: 0; left: 0; position: absolute; z-index: 1000; } .inline-video__smp { background-color: #000; padding-bottom: 56.25%; } .inline-video__smp--loaded { background-color: unset; padding-bottom: unset; } .inline-video__description { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(106, 106, 106, 0.43); color: #737373; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; line-height: 24px; margin: 0 10px 0 3%; padding: 20px 0 12px; } .inline-video__description--desktop { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(106, 106, 106, 0.43); margin: 0 18px; padding: 28px 0 18px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .inline-image__description { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(106, 106, 106, 0.43); font-style: italic; margin: 0 10px; padding: 20px 0 12px; } .inline-image__description--desktop { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(106, 106, 106, 0.43); margin: 0 18px; padding: 20px 0 18px; } .inline-image img { border-radius: 0; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .inline-quote { border-left: 3px solid #575757; color: #575757; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: -1.69px; line-height: 32px; margin: 0; padding-left: 22px; } .inline-quote--worklife { border-left: 3px solid #8beed9; } .inline-quote--future { border-left: 3px solid #ffc857; } .inline-quote--culture { border-left: 3px solid #472479; } .inline-quote--earth { border-left: 3px solid #002856; } .inline-quote h2 { font-weight: 300; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .inline-audio-player { background: none; } .inline-audio-player__smp-container { display: inline-block; width: 100%; } .inline-audio-player__smp-container > div { /* CreateSMPAudio */ display: inline-block; width: 100%; } .inline-audio-player__smp-container > div > div { height: 50px; position: relative; /* stylelint-disable-next-line selector-max-compound-selectors */ } .inline-audio-player__smp-container > div > div > div { padding: 0 !important; } .inline-audio-player__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .inline-audio-player__cta-holder { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #ededed; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding-right: 8px; } .inline-audio-player__cta-container { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .inline-audio-player__cta-container.initialising * { cursor: initial; pointer-events: none; -webkit-user-select: none; -moz-user-select: none; -ms-user-select: none; user-select: none; } .inline-audio-player__cta-container.initialising button { opacity: 0.6; } .inline-audio-player__text { background: none; border: 0; color: #222; cursor: pointer; font-size: 18px; height: 25px; letter-spacing: -0.1px; line-height: 25px; margin-left: 12px; outline: inherit; padding: 0; } .inline-audio-player__text--offline { cursor: default; pointer-events: none; } .inline-audio-player__disclaimer { background-color: #e6711b; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; height: 25px; left: -110px; line-height: 12px; margin-left: 0; padding: 0 7px; position: relative; top: 25px; width: 66px; } .inline-audio-player__disclaimer:hover .inline-audio-player__arrow { -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); } .inline-audio-player__inner-arrow { color: #4d4d49; font-size: 10px; } .inline-audio-player__arrow-button { background-color: transparent; border: 0; margin-left: auto; outline: none; -webkit-transition: all 0.5s ease; transition: all 0.5s ease; } .inline-audio-player__arrow-button__open { -webkit-transform: rotate(180deg); transform: rotate(180deg); } .inline-audio-player__disclaimer-copy { color: #444; display: block; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0; line-height: 17px; margin-top: 16px; } .inline-audio-player__arrow { border: solid #fff; border-width: 0 2px 2px 0; display: inline-block; padding: 3px; position: relative; top: -1px; -webkit-transform: rotate(-45deg); transform: rotate(-45deg); -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .inline-audio-player__hidden { display: none; } .inline-audio-player .collapsible-container { background-color: #ededed; color: #444; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; padding: 1rem; } .inline-audio-player .collapsible-container__hide { display: none; } .inline-audio-player .previous-button__inline-audio { margin-right: 1px; } .inline-audio-player__line { margin-top: 16px; } .inline-audio-player .previous-media-button { height: 50px; margin-right: 1px; width: 50px; } .inline-audio-player .previous-button__inline-audio { margin-right: 1px; } .copyright__text { color: #737373; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; line-height: 24px; margin-bottom: 10px; text-align: center; } @media (max-width: 767px) { .copyright__text { margin-top: 12px; } } .content-embed { width: 100%; } .infographic-embed__frame { width: 100%; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .article-video { height: 100%; position: relative; } .article-video img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .article-video__overlay { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; top: 0; width: 100%; } .article-video__play-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; left: 50%; padding: 0; position: absolute; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); z-index: 1500; } .article-video__label { margin-bottom: 16px; } .article-video__image { bottom: 0; height: 100%; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .article-video__image--hide { opacity: 0; } .article-video__playercore { display: block; } .article-video__playercore--mobile { display: none; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .article-video__playercore--show { display: block; } .article-video--bordered { border-radius: 4px; overflow: hidden; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .hero-video { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 180px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: relative; z-index: 1; } .hero-video__video { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 80%; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: relative; width: 80%; z-index: 2; } .hero-video__video--desktop { left: 0; top: 65px; width: 71.5% !important; } .hero-video__video--mobile { height: 100%; width: 100%; } .hero-video__video--small-desktop { height: 70%; left: 0; top: 78px; width: 67%; } .hero-video--small-desktop, .hero-video--desktop { display: block; height: 720px; } .hero-video img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; -webkit-filter: brightness(40%); filter: brightness(40%); } @media all and (-ms-high-contrast: none), (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .hero-video img { opacity: 0.5; } } .hero-video--mobile { height: 280px; } .hero-video--medium-mobile { height: 430px; } .hero-video--tablet { height: 574px; } .hero-video--tablet .hero-video__video { margin-bottom: 10px; } .hero-video__play-button { position: absolute; z-index: 100; } .hero-video__video div div { position: inherit !important; position: unset !important; } .share-tools-popout { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #fff; border: 1px solid #979797; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; padding: 30px 0 20px; position: relative; width: 300px; } .share-tools-popout__text { color: #444; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; margin: 0 18px 18px; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; } .share-tools-popout__url-container { padding: 0 18px; width: 100%; } .share-tools-popout__articleurl { border: 1px solid #979797; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; color: #a39f9f; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: -0.5px; margin-bottom: 8px; margin-top: 0; padding: 12px 10px; text-align: center; width: 262px; } .share-tools-popout__close { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: unset; border: unset; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; position: absolute; right: 8px; top: 20px; } .share-tools-popout__close:hover .share-tools-popout__close-icon { color: #888; -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } .share-tools-popout__close-icon { color: #000; font-size: 16px; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .share-tools-popout__border-arrow { background-color: #fff; border: 1px solid #979797; border-bottom: 0; border-right: 0; height: 12px; left: 40px; position: absolute; top: -7px; -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); width: 12px; } .share-tools-popout__tools { margin-bottom: 13px; } .share-tools-popout__details { -ms-flex-item-align: normal; -ms-grid-row-align: normal; align-self: normal; color: #444; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0; line-height: 16px; margin: 0; max-width: 180px; padding-left: 14px; } .share-tools-popout__copied, .share-tools-popout__copy { background-color: #000; border: unset; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; margin-bottom: 18px; padding: 12px 6px; text-transform: uppercase; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; width: 110px; } .share-tools-popout__copy:hover { background-color: #555; } .share-tools-popout__copied .gelicon--yes { color: #ff9700; margin-left: 8px; } .share-button-with-popout { position: relative; z-index: 9999; } .share-button-with-popout__popout { max-width: 330px; padding-right: 8px; position: absolute; top: 53px; width: 100%; } .share-button-with-popout__popout--desktop { width: auto; } .article-end__line--long { margin-bottom: 24px; } .article-end__share-tools { margin-bottom: 0; } .article-end--tablet .article-end__line--long { margin-bottom: 36px; } .article-end--desktop .article-end__line--long { margin-bottom: 44px; } .article-end--desktop .article-end__share-tools { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; margin-bottom: 50px; } .article-end--desktop .article-end__share { margin-top: 0; } .article-end__share { margin-top: 5px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .article-share-tools { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .article-share-tools a, .article-share-tools button { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #e4e4e4; border-radius: 0; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; color: #979797; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 52px; margin-right: 2px; width: 52px; } .article-share-tools--dark a, .article-share-tools--dark button { color: #444; height: 54px; width: 54px; } .article-share-tools--dark a svg, .article-share-tools--dark button svg { stroke: #444; } .article-share-tools a:hover, .article-share-tools button:hover { background-color: #fff; } .article-share-tools .facebook-icon:hover { color: #3b5898; } .article-share-tools .email-icon:hover { color: #615f5d; } .article-share-tools .twitter-icon:hover { color: #47c7fa; } .article-share-tools .linkedin-icon:hover { color: #0077b5; } .article-share-tools .whatsapp-icon:hover { color: #25d366; } .article-share-tools .facebook-messenger { color: #0184ff; } .article-share-tools .ticked-icon { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #e4e4e4; border-radius: 0; -webkit-box-shadow: none; box-shadow: none; font-size: 11px; margin-right: 2px; padding: 3px; } .article-share-tools--popout > *, .article-share-tools--popout a { color: #020203; margin-bottom: 3px; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .domestic-disclaimer { background-color: #333; position: relative; } .domestic-disclaimer__content { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin: auto; max-width: 990px; } .domestic-disclaimer__content--desktop-small { max-width: 976px; } .domestic-disclaimer__content--desktop { max-width: 1248px; } .domestic-disclaimer__text { color: #d8d8d8; font-size: 13px; line-height: 14px; margin: auto; padding: 8px 16px; } .domestic-disclaimer__text--tablet { font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px; padding: 16px 54px 16px 16px; } .domestic-disclaimer__text--desktop { font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px; margin-left: 0; max-width: 890px; padding: 14px 16px; } .domestic-disclaimer__close-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: unset; border: unset; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding: 0 16px 0 0; position: relative; } .domestic-disclaimer__close-button--desktop { padding: 0 16px 0 0; } .domestic-disclaimer__close-icon { color: #d8d8d8; font-size: 16px; } .domestic-disclaimer__close-icon--desktop { font-size: 22px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .section-header-text__text { background-color: #fff; border-radius: 4px; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 20px 0 rgba(153, 153, 153, 0.5), 0 2px 5px 0 rgba(153, 153, 153, 0.5); box-shadow: 0 0 20px 0 rgba(153, 153, 153, 0.5), 0 2px 5px 0 rgba(153, 153, 153, 0.5); margin: 0 8px; opacity: 0.95; padding: 16px; position: relative; z-index: 3; } .section-header-text__text--no-margin { margin: 0; } .section-header-text__ad { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: end; justify-content: flex-end; margin: 0 8px 8px; position: relative; top: unset; } .section-header-text__ad--desktop { margin: 0 0 8px; } .section-header-text__title { display: inline-block; } .section-header-text__title--large-margin { margin: 0 40px 16px 0; } .section-header-text__title--premium { border: 1.78px solid; padding: 8px; } .section-header-text__title-content { color: #444; font-size: 22px; font-weight: bold; margin: unset; } .section-header-text__title-content--tablet { font-size: 24px; } .section-header-text__title-content--desktop { font-size: 28px; } .section-header-text__description { color: #555; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px; margin: 0; } .section-header-text__description--large { font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .section-header-unit { max-width: 1280px; position: relative; } .section-header-unit--tablet { height: 320px; } .section-header-unit--desktop { border-radius: 4px; height: 320px; overflow: hidden; } .section-header-unit__image { height: 320px; max-height: 320px; overflow: hidden; position: relative; } .section-header-unit__image img { left: 50%; position: relative; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); } .section-header-unit__image--right img { left: unset; min-width: 100%; right: 0; width: unset; } .section-header-unit__image--left img { left: unset; min-width: 100%; right: unset; width: unset; } .section-header-unit__content { position: relative; -webkit-transform: translateY(-50%); transform: translateY(-50%); } .section-header-unit__content--desktop { bottom: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; max-width: 420px; position: absolute; right: 32px; top: 0; -webkit-transform: none; transform: none; } .section-header-unit__content--advert { -webkit-transform: translateY(calc(-50% - 28px)); transform: translateY(calc(-50% - 28px)); /* - half the height of the advert so the text is still centered. */ } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .label-list { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; position: relative; } .label-list__line { width: 100%; } .label-list__content { margin: 30px 0 0 16px; width: 100%; } .label-list__content--tablet { margin: 34px 0 0 38px; } .label-list__content--desktop { margin: 42px 0 0 32px; } .label-list__list-item { margin: 0; padding: 0; } .label-list__link { color: #444; font-size: 18px; line-height: 24px; text-decoration: none; } .label-list__link:hover { color: #adadad; } .label-list__link--large { font-size: 22px; line-height: 29px; } .label-list__link:not(:first-of-type) { margin-top: 8px; } .label-list__link--large:not(:first-of-type) { margin-top: 12px; } .label-list__list-items { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; margin-top: 36px; } .label-list__list-items--tablet { margin-top: 52px; } .label-list__list-items--desktop { margin-top: 46px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .offline-reading { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .offline-reading__header { font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px; margin: 0 0 16px; max-width: 220px; text-align: center; } .offline-reading__header--desktop { font-size: 18px; max-width: 460px; } .offline-reading__buttons { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; text-align: center; } .offline-reading__buttons--desktop { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .offline-reading__top-stories { margin-bottom: 24px; } .offline-reading__top-stories--desktop { margin: 0 16px 0 0; } .offline-reading__icon { display: block; height: auto; margin-bottom: 24px; width: 120px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .rectangle-image { background-size: cover; height: 74px; max-width: 100%; overflow: hidden; position: relative; width: 132px; } .rectangle-image img { height: 100%; left: 50%; position: absolute; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); width: auto; } .rectangle-image--small { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; height: 32px; width: 56px; } .rectangle-image--large { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; height: 162px; width: 288px; } .rectangle-image--medium { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; height: 126px; width: 222px; } .rectangle-image--full-screen { padding-top: 56.25%; width: 100%; } .rectangle-image img { -webkit-transition: all 0.4s ease; transition: all 0.4s ease; } .rectangle-image__overlay { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6); bottom: 0; height: 100%; left: 0; opacity: 0; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; width: 100%; } .rectangle-image__overlay--culture { background-color: rgba(72, 41, 120, 0.6); } .rectangle-image:hover .rectangle-image__overlay { opacity: 1; } .rectangle-image:hover img { height: 108%; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .rectangle-story-item { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin: auto; max-width: 100%; width: 288px; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-image__overlay { opacity: 1; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-story-item__icon { background-color: #000; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture:hover .rectangle-story-item__icon { background-color: #482978; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-image img { height: 108%; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container { position: relative; width: 100%; } .rectangle-story-item--tablet { width: 222px; } .rectangle-story-item__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex: 1 1 auto; flex: 1 1 auto; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin-top: 3px; width: 100%; } .rectangle-story-item__label { color: #4a4a4a; display: block; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; line-height: 16px; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 20px; padding-bottom: 3px; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; } .rectangle-story-item__label--worklife:hover, .rectangle-story-item__label--future:hover, .rectangle-story-item__label__travel:hover { background-image: none; } .rectangle-story-item__label--worklife > span:hover, .rectangle-story-item__label--future > span:hover, .rectangle-story-item__label__travel > span:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #4a4a4a; } .rectangle-story-item__label--culture:hover { background-image: none; } .rectangle-story-item__label--culture > span:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #482978; } .rectangle-story-item__line { display: block; margin: 16px 0; } .rectangle-story-item__author { color: #4a4a4a; display: block; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: 0.1px; line-height: 35px; text-decoration: none; } .rectangle-story-item__title { color: rgba(46, 46, 46, 0.85); display: block; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: -0.21px; line-height: 30px; text-decoration: none; } .rectangle-story-item__icon { background-color: #000; bottom: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 14px; height: 44px; line-height: 44px; position: absolute; text-align: center; -webkit-transition: 0.4s ease; transition: 0.4s ease; width: 44px; } .rectangle-story-item__title--white, .rectangle-story-item__author--white, .rectangle-story-item__label--white { color: #fff; } .rectangle-story-item__label--white:hover { border-bottom: 0; } .rectangle-story-item__label--white > span:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #fff; } .rectangle-article-group { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex: 1 1; flex: 1 1; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: relative; } .rectangle-article-group--tablet, .rectangle-article-group--desktop { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .rectangle-article-group__article { display: inline-block; padding-top: 12px; } .rectangle-article-group__article--tablet { padding: 0 16px 0 0; } .rectangle-article-group__article--desktop { padding: 0 24px 0 0; } .fake-ad { -ms-flex-line-pack: center; align-content: center; -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background: #f6f6f6; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; padding: 8px; } .fake-ad__body { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background: #5ae9cb; color: #fff; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex: 0 0 auto; flex: 0 0 auto; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; } .fake-ad__text { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; color: #444; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 1.5; text-align: right; text-transform: uppercase; } .fake-ad--mpu .fake-ad__body { height: 320px; width: 320px; } .fake-ad--mpu .fake-ad__text { width: 320px; } .fake-ad--mobile-leaderboard .fake-ad__body { height: 50px; width: 300px; } .fake-ad--mobile-leaderboard .fake-ad__text { width: 300px; } .fake-ad--leaderboard .fake-ad__body { height: 90px; width: 728px; } .fake-ad--leaderboard .fake-ad__text { width: 728px; } .body-text-card-inline-image { margin: 24px 0; position: relative; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .body-text-card { color: #444; display: block; font-size: 16px; line-height: 1.5; } .body-text-card__image, .body-text-card__video { margin: 24px 0; } .body-text-card__text { display: block; } .body-text-card__advert { margin: 20px 0; } .body-text-card__text div a { cursor: pointer; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; } .body-text-card__text a:hover { text-decoration: underline; } .body-text-card__text > div > p { margin: 0 20px 16px; } .body-text-card__text > div > p:last-child { margin-bottom: 0; padding-bottom: 0; } .body-text-card__drop-capped { float: left; margin: 0 8px 0 20px; padding-top: 6px; } .body-text-card__text--drop-capped p:first-of-type::first-letter { color: transparent; font-size: 0; } .body-text-card__text--flush-text > div > p { margin-left: 0; margin-right: 0; } .body-text-card__text--future div a:visited { color: #666; } .body-text-card__text--future div a { color: #002856; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #002856; text-decoration-color: #002856; } .body-text-card__text--travel div a { color: #589e50; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #589e50; text-decoration-color: #589e50; } .body-text-card__text--worklife div a { color: #0052a1; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #0052a1; text-decoration-color: #0052a1; } .body-text-card__text--earth div a { color: #0fbb56; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #0fbb56; text-decoration-color: #0fbb56; } .body-text-card__text--culture div a { color: #472479; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #472479; text-decoration-color: #472479; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .branding { -webkit-box-sizing: content-box !important; box-sizing: content-box !important; display: inline-block; height: 24px; padding: 12px 16px; width: 100%; } .branding__icon { display: inline-block; height: 24px; width: 100%; } .branding__icon g { fill: #fff; } .branding--medium { padding: 16px; } .branding--large { padding: 16px 24px; } .branding--worklife { background-color: #0052a1; } .branding--future { background-color: #002856; } .branding--culture { background-color: #472479; } .branding--earth { background-color: #0fbb56; } .branding--travel { background-color: #589e50; } .branding--travel svg, .branding--earth svg, .branding--culture svg, .branding--future svg, .branding--worklife svg { height: 24px; } .branding--small, .branding--small svg { height: 17px; } .branding__icon--medium, .branding--medium, .branding--medium svg { height: 22px; } .branding__icon--large, .branding--large, .branding--large svg { height: 24px; } .branding__icon--largest, .branding--largest, .branding--largest svg { height: 32px; } .branding__icon--small, .branding--travel .branding__icon--small svg, .branding--earth .branding__icon--small svg, .branding--culture .branding__icon--small svg, .branding--future .branding__icon--small svg, .branding--worklife .branding__icon--small svg { height: 17px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .swimlane-inner { background-position: center; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: auto 100%; display: block; padding: 24px 16px; } .swimlane-inner--small { padding: 24px 8px; } .swimlane-inner--tablet { padding: 28px 16px 42px; } .swimlane-inner--small-desktop { padding: 30px 16px 42px; } .swimlane-inner--desktop { padding: 38px 16px 42px; } .swimlane { overflow: hidden; position: relative; z-index: 0; } .swimlane__black { background-color: #0e0e0e; } .swimlane__background-image { height: 500px; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; width: 915px; z-index: -1; } .swimlane__background-image--mobile { height: 181px; width: 320px; } .swimlane__background-image--tablet { height: 421px; width: 752px; } .swimlane__background-image--desktop { height: 500px; width: 915px; } .swimlane__background-image--atb { background-color: rgba(51, 51, 51, 0.8); background-size: cover; height: 100%; width: 100%; } .swimlane__item { margin: 0 0 25px; width: 100%; } .swimlane__item--desktop { margin: 0; } .swimlane__item--tablet { margin: 0 16px 25px 0; width: calc((100% - 48px) / 3); } .swimlane__item--tablet:nth-of-type(3n + 3) { margin-right: 0; } .swimlane__item--two-columns { margin-right: 0 !important; max-width: 572px; width: 50%; } .swimlane__item--four-columns { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; margin-bottom: 25px; margin-right: 16px; width: calc((100% - 48px) / 4); } .swimlane__item--four-columns:nth-of-type(4n + 4) { margin-right: 0; } .swimlane__items { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; margin-top: 24px; text-align: left; } .swimlane__items--desktop { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin-top: 42px; } .swimlane__items--small-desktop { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-top: 30px; } .swimlane__items--tablet { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin-top: 30px; } .swimlane__items--no-title { margin-top: 0; } .swimlane__content { margin: auto; max-width: 942px; text-align: center; } .swimlane__content--desktop { max-width: 1216px; } .swimlane__title { color: #fff; font-size: 14px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; text-transform: uppercase; } .swimlane__title--black { color: #010101; font-weight: 400; } .see-more-button-container-alt { color: #0e0e0e; } .follow-us-on { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; position: relative; } .follow-us-on__text { color: #fff; font-size: 16px; font-style: condensed; line-height: 20px; margin: 0 0 20px; padding: 0; text-transform: uppercase; } .follow-us-on__links { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .follow-us-on__link:first-child { margin-right: 16px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-bar { background-color: #fff; } .nav-bar__hidden-menu { display: none; } .nav-bar__visible-menu { display: block; } .nav-bar__no-scroll { max-height: 100vh; overflow: hidden; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .dot-with-label { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .dot-with-label__text { padding-left: 8px; } .dot-with-label__text a { text-decoration: none; } .dot-with-label__text:hover h2 { color: #adadad; } .sponsor-section { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; height: 100%; max-width: 530px; } .sponsor-section--menu { padding: 20px 0 16px 24px; } .sponsor-section__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; height: 100%; } .sponsor-section__container--desktop { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; } .sponsor-section__sponsor { color: #fff; padding-right: 16px; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; color: #4e4e4e; font-size: 26px; margin: 0; white-space: nowrap; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name--mobile { padding-bottom: 16px; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name--desktop { font-size: 22px; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name--menu { color: #fff; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name--menu-desktop { font-size: 32px; } .sponsor-section__summary { color: #ebebeb; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; padding-top: 16px; } .sponsor-section__advert { display: inline-block; } .icon-with-label { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .icon-with-label__icon { padding-right: 10px; } .full-width-image-article { width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__container { min-height: 325px; overflow: hidden; position: relative; } .full-width-image-article__container--desktop { min-height: 400px; } .full-width-image-article__image { height: 100%; overflow: hidden; position: absolute; width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__image img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__text { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; color: #fff; left: 50%; max-width: 488px; padding: 0 20px; position: absolute; text-align: center; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__text a { color: #fff; text-decoration: none; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__label { display: inline-block; font-size: 14.4px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3.6px; line-height: 19px; margin-bottom: 11px; text-transform: uppercase; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__header { font-size: 24px; letter-spacing: -0.25px; line-height: 42px; margin: 0; padding: 0; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__header--desktop { font-size: 33.6px; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__author { font-size: 16.6px; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: -0.13px; line-height: 42px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 28px; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__author--desktop { margin-top: 32px; } .full-width-image-article__background { background-image: radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5, 36, 53, 0.37) 50%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0) 83%); height: 100%; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__link { color: #fff; text-decoration: none; } .more-articles { background-position: center; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: cover; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; overflow: hidden; position: relative; -webkit-transition: background-image 0.4s; transition: background-image 0.4s; } .more-articles__heading { display: inline-block; margin: auto; max-width: 1272px; padding: 20px 0 0 16px; position: relative; z-index: 5; } .more-articles__stories { margin: 10px 16px 42px; max-width: 1232px; padding: 8px; position: relative; z-index: 4; } .more-articles__stories--small { padding: 0; } .more-articles__stories--tablet { margin: 24px 16px 72px; max-width: 1216px; } .more-articles__stories--desktop { margin: 56px 48px 92px; max-width: 1152px; } .more-articles__story-container:not(:first-of-type) { padding-top: 16px; } .more-articles__line { opacity: 0.3; padding-top: 16px; z-index: 5; } .more-articles__image-overlay { background-color: rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.3); bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; z-index: 1; } .more-articles__image { opacity: 0; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; } .more-articles__image img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .more-articles__image--right img { left: unset; min-width: 100%; right: 0; width: unset; } .more-articles__image--left img { left: unset; min-width: 100%; right: unset; width: unset; } .more-articles__image--visible { opacity: 1; } .more-articles__story--two-columns, .more-articles__story--three-columns { padding-right: 16px; width: 310px; } .more-articles__story-container:nth-child(even) .more-articles__story--two-columns { padding-right: 0; } .more-articles__story-container:nth-child(3n + 3) .more-articles__story--three-columns { padding-right: 0; } .more-articles__stories--two-columns, .more-articles__stories--three-columns { -ms-flex-align: end; align-items: flex-end; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; padding: 16px; } .more-articles__stories--two-columns .more-articles-item__link, .more-articles__stories--three-columns .more-articles-item__link { pointer-events: all; } .more-articles__story-container--two-columns { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; width: 50%; } .more-articles__story-container--two-columns:nth-child(2) { padding-top: 0; } .more-articles__story-container--three-columns { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; width: 33%; } .more-articles__story-container--three-columns:nth-child(-n + 3) { padding-top: 0; } .more-articles__heading--small { padding: 20px 0 0 8px; } .more-articles__heading--desktop { max-width: 1264px; padding: 38px 0 0 16px; } .more-articles__heading--tablet { max-width: 1264px; padding: 24px 0 0 16px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .more-articles-item { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; position: relative; z-index: 5; } .more-articles-item__link { text-decoration: none; } .more-articles-item__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; width: 100%; } .more-articles-item__label { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-top: 8px; } .more-articles-item__type { margin-right: 16px; position: relative; } .more-articles-item__icon { color: #fff; font-size: 12px; margin-right: 8px; } .more-articles-item__text { color: #fff; font-size: 20px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 24px; padding: 0; position: relative; text-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.7); -webkit-transition: color 0.4s; transition: color 0.4s; } .more-articles-item__text--medium { font-size: 22px; line-height: 28px; } .more-articles-item__text--large { color: #ebebeb; font-size: 30px; line-height: 37px; } .more-articles-item__container--column { -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .more-articles-item__image-container { position: relative; } .more-articles-item--two-columns { margin-right: 16px; } .more-articles-item__label--desktop { margin-top: 16px; } .more-articles-item__label--tablet { margin-top: 16px; } .more-articles-item__link:hover .more-articles-item__text { color: #adadad; } .most-popular { background-color: #f9f9f9; } .most-popular__inner { margin: 0 auto; max-width: 894px; padding: 45px 24px 21px; } .most-popular__inner--desktop { padding: 47px 0 86px; } .most-popular__header { color: #010101; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; margin: 0; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; } .most-popular__items { display: block; } .most-popular__items--desktop { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-top: 57px; } .most-popular-item { box-sizing: border-box; padding-top: 33px; } .most-popular-item:last-of-type { margin-bottom: 42px; } .most-popular-item--desktop { padding: 0 20px; width: calc(33.333%); } .most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(3n + 2) { -ms-flex-order: 2; order: 2; padding: 38px 20px; } .most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(3n + 3) { -ms-flex-order: 3; order: 3; } .most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(n+4) { border-left: 1px solid #dadada; } .most-popular-item--desktop:last-of-type { margin-bottom: 0; } .most-popular-item a { text-decoration: none; } .most-popular-item__content { -ms-flex-align: end; align-items: flex-end; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; margin-top: 5px; } .most-popular-item__number { color: #cbcbcb; font-size: 40px; font-style: italic; font-weight: bold; line-height: 32px; margin: 0 20px 0 0; width: 25px; } .most-popular-item__label { color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; margin: 0 0 0 45px; text-transform: uppercase; } .most-popular-item__title { color: #2e2e2ecc; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: -0.17px; line-height: 22px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; } .most-popular-item__title--desktop { font-size: 16px; } .StickyElementContent { -webkit-transition: -webkit-transform 0.5s; transition: -webkit-transform 0.5s; transition: transform 0.5s; transition: transform 0.5s, -webkit-transform 0.5s; } .StickyElementContent--is-undocked { left: 0; position: fixed; top: 0; width: 100%; } .StickyElementContent--is-hidden { -webkit-transform: translateY(-100%); transform: translateY(-100%); } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .error-page-header { position: relative; } .error-page-header__headers { margin-bottom: 16px; position: relative; z-index: 1; } .error-page-header__headers--tablet-plus { margin-bottom: 32px; } .error-page-header__description { color: #444; font-size: 16px; line-height: 20px; } .error-page-header__play-icon { margin-right: 16px; } .error-page-header__play-icon button { color: #adadad; } .error-page-header__dot-label { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .styled-list { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; } .styled-list__item { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .styled-list__item:not(:first-of-type) { padding-top: 8px; } .styled-list__item a { font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; } .styled-list__item--worklife a { color: #8beed9; } .styled-list__item--future a { color: #ffc857; } .styled-list__item--culture a { color: #472479; } .styled-list__item--earth a { color: #002856; } .styled-list__item--travel a { color: #002856; } .styled-list__text { color: #444; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; padding-left: 20px; } .styled-list__dot { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; margin-top: 8px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .image-gallery-item { margin: 26px 0; } .image-gallery-item img { height: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; width: 100%; } .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -3%; width: 106%; } @media (max-width: 1000px) and (min-width: 767px) { .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -16%; width: 116%; } } @media (max-width: 1180px) and (min-width: 1024px) { .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -8%; width: 108%; } } @media (max-width: 1365px) and (min-width: 1280px) { .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -42%; width: 142%; } } @media (min-width: 1366px) { .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -55%; width: 155%; } } .image-gallery-item__image--portrait { margin: 20px 0; width: 100%; } @media (max-width: 599px) { .image-gallery-item__image--portrait { margin-left: -3%; width: 106%; } } .image-gallery-item__image--portrait, .image-gallery-item__image--portrait img { max-height: 507px; min-height: 463px; } @media (max-width: 1279px) and (min-width: 768px) { .image-gallery-item__image--portrait, .image-gallery-item__image--portrait img { min-height: 818px; } } .error-page { position: relative; } .error-page__container { margin-bottom: 16px; } .error-page__container--tablet-plus { margin-bottom: 32px; } .error-page__title { margin-bottom: 12px; } .error-page__title--desktop { margin-bottom: 24px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .article-labels { font-size: 12px; line-height: 16px; text-transform: uppercase; } .article-labels a { color: #fff; letter-spacing: 1px; text-decoration: none; } .article-labels__text:first-child { font-weight: bold; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .rectangle-story-group { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; margin: auto; position: relative; } .rectangle-story-group__articles { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex: 1 1; flex: 1 1; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: relative; } .rectangle-story-group__articles--small-tablet { -ms-flex-pack: unset; justify-content: unset; } .rectangle-story-group__articles--full-screen { display: block; } .rectangle-story-group__article { display: inline-block; padding-left: 18px; padding-top: 16px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--tablet { padding-left: 20px; padding-top: 22px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--desktop { padding-left: 22px; padding-top: 24px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--desktop:first-of-type { padding-left: 8px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--small-tablet { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; width: 50%; } .rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen { display: block; padding: 16px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen:first-of-type { padding-top: 0; } .rectangle-story-group__article--small-desktop { padding-left: 10px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--small-desktop:last-of-type { padding-right: 8px; } .rectangle-story-group__articles-container { margin: auto; max-width: 950px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%; } .rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 16px 16px 24px; } .rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu--desktop { border-left: 1px solid #dadada; display: block; padding: 0 0 0 16px; padding-top: 0; } .rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu--small-desktop { display: block; padding: 0 0 0 8px; } .rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .rectangle-story-group__article-hero--tablet { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .article-title-card-rectangle { width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image:hover .article-title-card-rectangle__overlay { opacity: 1; } .article-title-card-rectangle__overlay { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6); bottom: 0; height: 100%; left: 0; opacity: 0; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; -webkit-transition: -webkit-transform 0.5s ease; transition: -webkit-transform 0.5s ease; transition: transform 0.5s ease; transition: transform 0.5s ease, -webkit-transform 0.5s ease; width: 100%; will-change: transform; } .article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--culture { background-color: rgba(72, 41, 120, 0.6); } .article-title-card-rectangle__image { margin-right: 40px; max-height: 390px; max-width: 620px; overflow: hidden; position: relative; width: auto; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image img { display: block; min-height: 194px; min-width: 344px; width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image--tablet, .article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop { margin-right: 0; width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image--tablet img, .article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop img { width: 110%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image--preview-article { margin-right: 0; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image--index { margin-right: 0; max-width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; position: relative; } .article-title-card-rectangle__container--tablet, .article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .article-title-card-rectangle__container--preview-article { margin-right: 8px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__container--index { -ms-flex-align: initial; align-items: initial; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box { background-color: #fff; margin-left: 40px; padding: 16px 22px 0; position: relative; top: -22px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label { color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; line-height: 20px; margin: 0; text-transform: uppercase; width: -webkit-fit-content; width: -moz-fit-content; width: fit-content; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--worklife:hover, .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--future:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #4a4a4a; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--culture:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #482978; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index { color: #000; font-size: 20px; font-weight: 300; letter-spacing: -0.53px; line-height: 30px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index--tablet { font-size: 28px; letter-spacing: -0.74px; line-height: 44px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index--desktop { font-size: 32px; letter-spacing: -0.84px; line-height: 44px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header { color: #2e2e2e; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: -0.21px; line-height: 30px; margin-bottom: 30px; margin-top: 12px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop { font-size: 28px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--tablet { font-size: 26px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--index { color: #3d3d3d; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.12px; line-height: 31px; margin-top: 4px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author { color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: -0.1px; line-height: 35px; margin: 8px 0 0; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet { margin: 14px 0 0; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--tablet, .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop { left: -40px; margin: 0; padding: 40px; top: 0; -webkit-transform: none; transform: none; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--tablet { padding: 35px 22px 22px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index { left: 0; margin-right: 40px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index--tablet { margin-left: 50px; margin-right: 50px; padding: 30px 36px 0; top: -80px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index--desktop { margin-left: 50px; max-width: 560px; top: -88px; width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__link { color: #000; text-decoration: none; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-container { display: block; max-width: 252px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--tablet, .article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop { max-width: 320px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__preview-container { color: #4d4d4d; text-decoration: none; } .article-title-card-rectangle__preview-text { display: block; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; margin-top: 27px; max-width: 396px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__read-more { display: inline-block; font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 4px; margin: 25px 16px 0 0; text-transform: uppercase; } .article-title-card-rectangle__arrow { color: #bababa; display: inline-block; -webkit-transform: rotate(-90deg); transform: rotate(-90deg); } .article-headline { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; padding: 43px 0; } .article-headline .article-labels { text-align: center; } .article-headline__line--short { margin-bottom: 40px; } .article-headline--largeTablet .article-headline__text { font-size: 32px; text-align: center; } .article-headline--tablet { padding: 31px 0; } .article-headline--tablet .article-headline__collection { margin-bottom: 24px; } .article-headline--tablet .article-headline__text { font-size: 32px; letter-spacing: -0.84px; margin: 0 15px 23px; text-align: center; } .article-headline--mobile { padding: 20px 0; } .article-headline--mobile .article-headline__text { font-size: 24px; letter-spacing: -0.63px; margin: 0 15px 15px; text-align: center; } .article-headline--mobile .article-headline__collection { margin-bottom: 15px; } .article-headline__collection { margin-bottom: 40px; } .article-headline__collection a { color: #242424; } .article-headline__text { font-size: 45px; letter-spacing: -1.26px; line-height: 30px; margin-bottom: 44px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .loading-spinner { margin: 0 auto; text-align: center; } .loading-spinner__message { color: #002756; display: block; font-size: 1.2rem; font-weight: bold; margin: 12px 0; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; } .loading-spinner__image { display: block; margin: 0 auto; width: 48px; } @media only screen and (min-width: 1600px) { .hero-image { height: 900px; position: relative; } .hero-image img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 1600px) { .hero-image { height: 0; overflow: hidden; padding-top: 56.25%; position: relative; } .hero-image img { height: 100%; left: 0; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .article-hero { height: 672px; margin: 0; overflow: hidden; position: relative; width: 100%; } .article-hero--small-mobile { height: 373px; } .article-hero--mobile { height: 486px; } .article-hero--small-tablet { height: 433px; } .article-hero--tablet { height: 433px; } .article-hero--tablet .article-hero__content { padding: 60px 15px 0; } .article-hero__content { margin: auto; max-width: 1004px; pointer-events: none; position: relative; z-index: 1; } .article-hero--desktop { height: 573px; } .article-hero--desktop .article-hero__content { padding: 50px 30px 0; } .article-hero--large-desktop .article-hero__content { max-width: 1276px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content { padding: 60px 10px 0; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-title, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-title, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-title { font-size: 24px; line-height: 30px; max-width: 220px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-line, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-line, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-line { margin-bottom: 16px; margin-top: 16px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-labels, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-labels, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-labels { margin-bottom: 15px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-cta, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-cta, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-cta { line-height: 22px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-cta a, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-cta a, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-cta a { letter-spacing: 3px; } .article-hero__ambient-hidden { display: none; } .article-hero__background-ambient { bottom: 0; left: 0; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; z-index: -1; } .article-hero__background::after { background-image: linear-gradient(-63deg, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0) 0%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.06) 24%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2) 51%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.32) 67%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.51) 100%); content: ''; height: 100%; left: 0; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .article-hero__background img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .article-hero__background--parallax img { -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); transform: scale(1.1); } .article-hero a { color: #fff; letter-spacing: 3px; text-decoration: none; } .article-hero__content-cta { clear: both; font-size: 16px; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: 4px; line-height: 20px; max-width: 170px; pointer-events: all; text-shadow: 0 2px 4px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5); text-transform: uppercase; } .article-hero__content-cta a { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; letter-spacing: 4px; } .article-hero__content-labels { font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 1px; line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 20px; pointer-events: all; } .article-hero__content-line { background-color: #fff; border: 0; display: block; float: left; height: 1px; margin-bottom: 18px; margin-right: 300px; margin-top: 25px; width: 120px; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow { position: relative; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow::before { background: #fff; content: ''; height: 2px; left: 5px; margin-top: -1px; opacity: 0.4; position: absolute; top: 50%; -webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease; transition: all 0.3s ease; width: 20px; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow::after { border-right: 2px solid #fff; border-top: 2px solid #fff; content: ''; display: inline-block; height: 10px; left: 16px; margin-top: 5px; opacity: 0.4; position: absolute; -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); width: 10px; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow--small::before { opacity: 1; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow--small::after { margin-top: 6px; opacity: 1; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow img { height: 11px; margin-left: 10px; width: 19px; } .article-hero__content-title { color: #fff; font-size: 50px; line-height: 54px; margin-top: 0; max-width: 450px; pointer-events: all; text-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(51, 51, 51, 0.7); } .article-hero__content-title a { letter-spacing: -1.32px; } .article-hero__title-text { display: inline; } .article-hero__content-title > a:hover > div, .article-hero__content-subtitle > a:hover { background-image: -webkit-gradient(linear, left top, right top, color-stop(100%, currentColor), color-stop(0%, transparent)); background-image: linear-gradient(to right, currentColor 100%, transparent 0%); background-position: 0 1.15em; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 2px; } .article-hero__content-subtitle { clear: both; color: #fff; font-size: 23px; font-weight: 500; line-height: 32px; margin-bottom: 16px; margin-top: 0; max-width: 440px; pointer-events: all; text-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(51, 51, 51, 0.5); } .article-hero__content-subtitle a { letter-spacing: -1px; } .article-hero__content-title--small { font-size: 30px; line-height: 35px; } .article-hero__content-title--tablet { clear: both; font-size: 32px; letter-spacing: -0.84px; line-height: 42px; max-width: 264px; } .article-hero__content-title--small a { letter-spacing: -0.63px; } .article-hero__down-arrow { background-color: transparent; border: 0; bottom: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; left: calc(50% - 29px); margin: 0; margin-bottom: 15px; padding: 0; position: absolute; -webkit-transform: scale(0.5); transform: scale(0.5); } .see-more-button-container { color: #fff; } /* stylelint-disable */ @media screen and (min-width: 1000px) { .similar-articles-story { max-width: 900px; } } @media screen and (min-width: 601px) and (max-width: 999px) { .similar-articles-story { max-width: 600px; } } @media screen and (max-width: 600px) { .similar-articles-story { max-width: 300px; } } .related-articles { position: relative; } .related-articles__header { text-align: center; background-color: #000; color: #fff; font-size: 14px; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: 3px; margin: 0 0 20px; padding: 8px; text-transform: uppercase; } .related-articles__header--bright { margin: 20px 0 1.15ex; font-size: 13px; background-color: #d8d8d8; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.7); letter-spacing: 2px; line-height: 3; } .related-articles__list { list-style: none; padding: 0 0 1.5ex 0; margin: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: row wrap; flex-flow: row wrap; /* .with-numbers */ } .related-articles__list li { -ms-flex-preferred-size: 100%; flex-basis: 100%; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: row nowrap; flex-flow: row nowrap; -ms-flex-pack: start; justify-content: flex-start; -ms-flex-align: stretch; align-items: stretch; -ms-flex-line-pack: stretch; align-content: stretch; } .related-articles__list li > div { -ms-flex: 1 1; flex: 1 1; } .related-articles__list.with-numbers { counter-reset: related-numbers; list-style-image: url(data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7); margin: 0 35px; } .related-articles__list.with-numbers li::before { counter-increment: related-numbers; content: counter(related-numbers); font-weight: bold; font-size: 40px; -ms-flex-item-align: end; align-self: flex-end; line-height: 1.85; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: 0; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.18); -ms-flex: 0.1 0.1; flex: 0.1 0.1; -ms-flex-preferred-size: 1ex; flex-basis: 1ex; padding-right: 1ex; text-align: center; display: block; } .related-articles__list.with-numbers li { margin-bottom: 10px; } .related-articles--wide-layout { background-color: initial; margin-top: 20px; } ul.related-articles__list:not(.list-wide) li { max-width: 100%; } ul.related-articles__list:not(.list-wide).with-borders li:not(:last-of-type) { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); } ul.related-articles__list.list-wide li { max-width: 49.8%; } ul.related-articles__list.list-wide.with-borders li { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); } .related-article { -ms-flex-align: stretch; align-items: stretch; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: row nowrap; flex-flow: row nowrap; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 16px; min-height: 90px; } .related-article__image { width: calc(90px + 0.5ex); -ms-flex: 0.3 0.3; flex: 0.3 0.3; min-width: 90px; max-width: calc(90px + 0.5ex); margin: 0; display: block; line-height: 0; -ms-flex-order: -1; order: -1; } .related-article__image img { width: 100%; border: 0; margin: 0 12px 0 0; } .related-article__text { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: column nowrap; flex-flow: column nowrap; width: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: start; justify-content: flex-start; -ms-flex-line-pack: start; align-content: flex-start; position: relative; padding: 12px 6px 12px 0; line-height: 1.5; } .related-article__text a { width: 100%; padding-left: 12px; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; text-decoration: none; } .related-article__text a + a { margin-top: 1ex; } .related-article__text br { display: none; } .related-article__title { color: rgba(46, 46, 46, 0.85); letter-spacing: -0.01em; -ms-flex: 1 1; flex: 1 1; } .related-article__title:hover { color: #2e2e2e; } .related-article__collection { display: block; color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 2.5px; line-height: 1.2; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; } .related-article__collection span { display: none; } .related-articles__list.square-images .related-article { margin: 0.75ex 0; } .related-articles__list.square-images .related-article:hover { background-color: #f9f9f9; } .related-articles__list.square-images.list-wide .related-article { margin: 1.25ex 1.75ex; } .related-articles__list.round-images a:hover { color: #000; } .related-articles__list.round-images .related-article { margin: 1.25ex 1.75ex; } .related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__title { padding-left: 10px; } .related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__image { width: calc(90px + 15px); max-width: calc(90px + 15px); margin: 0; } .related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__image img { border-radius: 50%; } .related-articles__list.round-images.list-wide .related-article { margin: 1.75ex 1.75ex; } .vertical-story-card-item { cursor: pointer; font-family: 'ReithSans'; height: 456px; margin: 20px 10px; position: relative; width: 297px; } @media only screen and (max-width: 1007px) { .vertical-story-card-item { width: 276px; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .vertical-story-card-item { width: 276px; } } .vertical-story-card-item img { width: 100%; } .vertical-story-card-item__content-box { background-color: #fff; bottom: 0; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 5px #d8d8d8; box-shadow: 0 0 5px #d8d8d8; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; height: 111px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: absolute; right: 0; width: 275px; } @media only screen and (max-width: 1007px) { .vertical-story-card-item__content-box { width: 261px; } } .vertical-story-card-item__content-box h1 { color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 0.75rem; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; margin: 0; padding: 0 10px; text-transform: uppercase; } .vertical-story-card-item__content-box h2 { color: #3d3d3d; font-size: 1.3125rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.06px; line-height: 42px; margin: 0; padding: 0 10px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .see-more-button { border-bottom: 1px solid #979797; text-align: center; } .see-more-button__inner { background-color: transparent; border: 0; color: #6c6c6c; cursor: pointer; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; margin-bottom: 13px; position: relative; text-transform: uppercase; -webkit-transition: linear 0.6s; transition: linear 0.6s; } .see-more-button__inner-arrow { color: #6c6c6c; font-size: 10px; position: absolute; right: 9px; top: 2px; -webkit-transition: linear 0.3s; transition: linear 0.3s; } .see-more-button__inner-text { margin-right: 24px; } .see-more-button__inner:hover { color: #4a4a4a; } .see-more-button__inner:hover .see-more-button__inner-arrow { color: #4a4a4a; -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } .vertical-story-group { font-family: 'ReithSans'; position: relative; } .vertical-story-group img { -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; width: 100%; } .vertical-story-group__image-container { height: 370px; position: relative; width: 100%; } .vertical-story-group__image-container img { height: 100%; } .vertical-story-group__image-mask { background: -webkit-gradient(linear, left top, right top, from(rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6)), to(rgba(0, 0, 0, 0))); background: linear-gradient(to right, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6), rgba(0, 0, 0, 0)); bottom: 0; left: 0; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container { color: #fff; left: 50%; position: absolute; text-align: center; top: 80px; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); } @media only screen and (max-width: 599px) { .vertical-story-group__heading-container { top: 120px; } } .vertical-story-group__heading-container button { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.8); border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; font-size: 0.875rem; letter-spacing: 0.183rem; outline: none; padding: 15px 32px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container h1 { font-size: 0.9rem; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3.6px; margin-bottom: 20px; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container h2 { font-size: 2.1rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.25px; line-height: 42px; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; left: 0; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 65px; width: 70%; } @media only screen and (max-width: 599px) { .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } } .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape h1 { color: #fff; font-size: 2.25rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: 0.95px; margin: 0; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.8); border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; font-size: 0.875rem; height: 60px; letter-spacing: 0.183rem; outline: none; padding: 15px 32px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; width: 260px; } @media only screen and (max-width: 599px) { .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button { margin-top: 50px; } } .vertical-story-group__container { display: -ms-grid; display: grid; grid-auto-rows: minmax(auto, auto); grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(290px, 310px)); height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; justify-items: center; margin-top: -210px; width: 100%; } @media only screen and (max-width: 599px) { .vertical-story-group__container { margin-top: -120px; } } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .mapContainer .mapTitle { background: transparent; color: #fff; display: block; font-family: 'curiousSans-Bold', Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 0.9rem; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3.6px; line-height: 1.1875em; margin-top: 2%; min-width: 25%; padding: 2%; padding-bottom: 0.375em; padding-left: 8px; padding-right: 16px; padding-top: 0.375em; position: relative; text-align: center; z-index: 100; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer .mapTitle { font-size: 2.4em; } } .mapContainer .styled-line { margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; } .mapContainer button { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.9); border: 0; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 60px; outline: none; padding: 2px; width: 60px; } .mapContainer button .gelicon { color: #589e50; font-size: 2.5em; vertical-align: middle; } .mapContainer button:hover { background-color: #f2f2f2; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer button { height: 50px; width: 50px; } .mapContainer button .gelicon { font-size: 2em; } } .mapContainer .navigationPanel { -ms-flex-align: end; align-items: flex-end; bottom: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; left: 50%; max-width: 1200px; padding: 10px; position: absolute; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, 0); transform: translate(-50%, 0); width: 100%; } .mapContainer .zoomControls { background-color: #fff; } .mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-radius: 0; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 3px 0 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) !important; box-shadow: 0 3px 0 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) !important; cursor: default; font-family: 'curiousSans-Bold', Arial, sans-serif; max-width: 300px; padding: 0 !important; text-align: left; } .mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content img { width: 300px; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content { max-width: 190px; } .mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content img { width: 190px; } } .mapContainer .mapboxgl-ctrl-logo { display: none !important; } .mapContainer .map-marker svg { -webkit-transition: all 0.1s ease-out; transition: all 0.1s ease-out; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer .map-marker svg { height: 52px; -webkit-transform: scale(0.75); transform: scale(0.75); } } .mapContainer .map-marker-active svg { -webkit-transform: scale(1.3); transform: scale(1.3); } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer .map-marker-active svg { height: 52px; -webkit-transform: scale(1); transform: scale(1); } } .mapContainer__articleInfo { padding: 0 18px; } .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-vertical a { color: #4a4a4a; display: block; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; line-height: 16px; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 20px; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; } .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title { font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: -0.21px; line-height: 30px; margin: 0.725em 0; } .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title a { color: rgba(46, 46, 46, 0.85); text-decoration: none; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title { font-size: 1.7em; } } .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-author { color: #4a4a4a; display: block; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: 0.1px; line-height: 35px; margin: 1.45em 0; text-decoration: none; } .location-header { font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; text-transform: uppercase; } .temperature-switcher { background: transparent; border: 0; cursor: pointer; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; font-weight: 300; white-space: nowrap; } .temperature-switcher:active { color: currentColor; } .temperature-switcher__active { font-weight: bold; } .temperature-switcher span { margin: 0 0.2ex; } .day { --w-day-font-size: 14px; --w-day-temp-font-size: 20px; --w-day-temp-font-size-big: 32px; --w-day-temp-font-weight: 600; --w-day-name-font-weight: 500; -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; color: #959595; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; font-size: var(--w-day-font-size); } .day--desktop { --w-day-temp-font-size: 24px; --w-day-temp-font-weight: normal; --w-day-name-font-weight: 600; } .day:first-of-type { color: #4b4b4b; } .day__name { font-weight: var(--w-day-name-font-weight); line-height: 1; margin-bottom: 0.75em; text-transform: uppercase; } .day__symbol-header { display: block; height: 80px; margin: 7px 0 5px; width: 98px; } .day__symbol { display: block; height: 40px; margin: 7px 0 5px; width: 50px; } .day--desktop .day__symbol { height: 60px; margin-top: 15px; width: 70px; } .day__temp { font-size: var(--w-day-temp-font-size); font-weight: var(--w-day-temp-font-weight); line-height: 1.2; margin-top: 0.75em; text-transform: lowercase; } .day__temp--header { color: #4b4b4b; font-size: 32px; font-weight: bold; } .day--mobile:first-of-type { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: row wrap; flex-flow: row wrap; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 3em; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__symbol { height: 60px; margin-right: 10px; overflow: visible; width: 80px; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__temp { font-size: var(--w-day-temp-font-size-big); font-weight: bold; margin-top: 0; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location { font-size: 120%; font-weight: 500; margin: 1em 0; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name { color: #959595; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location, .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name { text-align: center; width: 100%; } .weather { --w-height: 50px; --w-wrapper-margin: 24px; --w-days-flexbasis: 33%; margin-bottom: 2rem; } .weather--desktop { --w-height: 80px; --w-wrapper-margin: 50px; --w-days-flexbasis: initial; margin-bottom: 1rem; } .weather:not(.weather--desktop) .weather__days { -ms-flex-flow: row wrap; flex-flow: row wrap; } .weather:not(.weather--desktop) .day:first-of-type { -ms-flex-preferred-size: 100%; flex-basis: 100%; width: auto; } .weather__separator { border-right: 1px solid #dcdcdc; display: block; height: var(--w-height); } .weather__days { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-preferred-size: var(--w-days-flexbasis); flex-basis: var(--w-days-flexbasis); -ms-flex-pack: space-evenly; justify-content: space-evenly; margin-top: 2.5rem; } .weather__days--desktop { margin-top: 4rem; } .weather__header { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: column; flex-flow: column; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: var(--w-wrapper-margin); } .weather__header button { margin-top: 1.5rem; } .weather__header--desktop { /* position the temperature switcher on desktop */ position: relative; } .weather__header--desktop button { margin: 0; position: absolute; right: 0; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .beta-btn { background-color: #e6711b; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; height: 25px; line-height: 12px; padding: 0 7px; width: 66px; } .beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow { cursor: pointer; -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); } .beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow--expanded { -webkit-transform: rotate(-35deg); transform: rotate(-35deg); } .beta-btn__copy { color: #444; display: block; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0; line-height: 17px; margin: 16px auto; max-width: 50%; } .beta-btn__arrow { border: solid #fff; border-width: 0 2px 2px 0; display: inline-block; padding: 3px; position: relative; top: -1px; -webkit-transform: rotate(-45deg); transform: rotate(-45deg); -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .beta-btn__arrow--expanded { -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); } .image-card { position: relative; } .image-card img { -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; width: 100%; } .image-card__heading-container { color: #fff; left: 50%; position: absolute; text-align: center; top: 80px; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); } .image-card__heading-container button { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.8); border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; font-size: 0.875rem; letter-spacing: 0.183rem; outline: none; padding: 15px 32px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; } .image-card__heading-container h1 { font-size: 0.9rem; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3.6px; margin-top: 0; } .image-card__heading-container h2 { font-size: 2.1rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.25px; line-height: 42px; margin-top: 0; } .image-card__heading-container-landscape { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; left: 50%; position: absolute; text-align: center; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); width: 90%; } .image-card__heading-container-landscape__mobile { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .image-card__heading-container-landscape h1 { color: #fff; font-size: 2.25rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: 0.95px; margin-top: 0; } .image-card__heading-container-landscape button { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.8); border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; font-size: 0.875rem; height: 60px; letter-spacing: 0.183rem; outline: none; padding: 15px 32px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; width: 260px; } .destination-header { width: 100%; } .destination-header__container { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; min-height: 380px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0 16px; position: relative; } .destination-header__image { height: 100%; overflow: hidden; position: absolute; width: 100%; } .destination-header__image img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .destination-header__text { color: #fff; font-size: 28px; letter-spacing: -0.95px; line-height: 37.4px; max-width: 488px; padding: 0 20px; position: relative; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; width: 100%; } .destination-header__text a { color: #fff; font-weight: 300; text-decoration: none; } .destination-header__text--desktop { font-size: 36px; } .destination-header__text-container { border-bottom: solid 1px #fff; display: inline-block; line-height: 1.3; padding-bottom: 17px; } .destination-header__text-container--desktop { padding-bottom: 0.75ex; } .destination-header__link-page, .destination-header__advert { color: #fff; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0.5px; margin-top: 20px; position: relative; text-align: center; } .destination-header__link-page span, .destination-header__advert span { display: block; width: 100%; } .destination-header__link-page--desktop, .destination-header__advert--desktop { margin-top: 40px; } .destination-header__link-page { left: 14px; margin: 0; position: absolute; text-transform: uppercase; top: 20px; } .destination-header__link-page--desktop { left: 25px; top: 36px; } .destination-header__background { background-image: radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5, 36, 53, 0.37) 50%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0) 83%); height: 100%; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .destination-header a { color: #fff; text-decoration: none; } .filter { display: inline-block; max-width: 160px; position: relative; } .filter__button { background-color: #000; border: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 16px; padding: 16px; width: 160px; } .filter__content { background-color: #000; display: none; position: absolute; width: 160px; z-index: 1; } .filter:focus .filter__content, .filter:hover .filter__content { display: block; } .filter__content--open { display: block; } .filter__content button { background-color: #000; border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-style: italic; padding: 12px 16px; text-decoration: none; width: 100%; } .filter__content button:hover { background-color: #494848; } .callout-box-card { background-color: #eaeaea; color: #4a4a4a; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left; } .callout-box-card img { height: 100%; width: 100%; } .callout-box-card__container { padding: 0.2rem 1.5rem; } .callout-box-card__container h3 { font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; line-height: 16px; margin: 1rem 0; text-transform: uppercase; } .callout-box-card__container h4 { font-size: 28px; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.21px; line-height: 35px; } .callout-box-card__container .body { font-size: 16px; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.12px; line-height: 31px; } .callout-box-card__container .body a { color: #4a4a4a; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .see-more-button { border-bottom: 1px solid #979797; text-align: center; } .see-more-button-inner { background-color: transparent; border: 0; color: #6c6c6c; cursor: pointer; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; margin-bottom: 13px; position: relative; text-transform: uppercase; } .see-more-button-inner--light { color: #b4b4b4; } .see-more-button-inner__arrow { color: #6c6c6c; font-size: 10px; position: absolute; right: 9px; top: 2px; } .see-more-button-inner__arrow--light { color: #b4b4b4; } .see-more-button-inner__text { margin-right: 24px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .load-more-button { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } .load-more-button__refresh.gelicon--refresh { margin-right: 16px; -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } .load-more-button__downarrow { color: #adadad; font-size: 22px; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; } .load-more-button__loading .load-more-button__refresh.gelicon--refresh { -webkit-animation: spin 2s linear infinite; animation: spin 2s linear infinite; } .load-more-button__downarrow:first-of-type { padding-right: 16px; } .load-more-button__downarrow:not(:first-of-type) { padding-left: 16px; } @-webkit-keyframes spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } 100% { -webkit-transform: rotate(-270deg); transform: rotate(-270deg); } } @keyframes spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } 100% { -webkit-transform: rotate(-270deg); transform: rotate(-270deg); } } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .basic-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #fff; border: 1px solid #adadad; border-radius: 4px; -webkit-box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 0 #fff, 0 2px 0 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.08); box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 0 #fff, 0 2px 0 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.08); color: #193e6d; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 20px; height: 54px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; min-width: 222px; text-align: center; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; } .basic-button--worklife { color: #0052a1; } .basic-button--future { color: #002856; } .basic-button--culture { color: #472479; } .basic-button--earth { color: #0fbb56; } .basic-button--travel { color: #589e50; } .basic-button__text { color: #444; font-family: 'BBC Reith Sans Cd'; font-size: 18px; line-height: 24px; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; } .basic-button__text--white { color: #fff; } .basic-button__text--curious { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; } .basic-button__text--worklife { color: #0052a1; } .basic-button__text--future { color: #002856; } .basic-button__text--culture { color: #472479; } .basic-button__text--earth { color: #0fbb56; } .basic-button__text--travel { color: #589e50; } .basic-button::before { padding-right: 16px; } .basic-button:hover { background-color: #dedede; } .basic-button--background-light-blue:hover { background-color: #dfe8ff; } .basic-button--background-worklife { background-color: #0052a1; } .basic-button--background-future { background-color: #002856; } .basic-button--background-culture { background-color: #472479; } .basic-button--background-earth { background-color: #0fbb56; } .basic-button--background-travel { background-color: #589e50; } .basic-button--background-worklife:hover { background-color: #4494e4; } .basic-button--background-future:hover { background-color: #ffc857; } .basic-button--background-culture:hover { background-color: #472479; } .basic-button--background-earth:hover { background-color: #002856; } .basic-button--background-travel:hover { background-color: #002856; } .basic-button__text--bold { font-weight: bold; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .read-more-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; font-weight: bold; position: relative; width: 224px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .AdFrame { display: -ms-inline-flexbox; display: inline-flex; } .AdFrame--default { background-color: #f6f6f6; } .AdFrame--dark-grey { background-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.8); } .AdFrame--centre-aligned { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .text-with-styled-background { height: inherit; position: relative; width: 100%; } .text-with-styled-background--collection { display: inline-block; width: unset; } .text-with-styled-background--center-align { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .text-with-styled-background__text { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; color: #444; display: block; font-size: 20px; line-height: 24px; padding: 0 0 0 10px; position: relative; } .text-with-styled-background__text--large { font-size: 26px; line-height: 30px; padding: 0 0 0 24px; } .text-with-styled-background__text--medium { font-size: 22px; line-height: 28px; } .text-with-styled-background__text--remove-padding { padding: 0; width: 100%; } .text-with-styled-background__text--largest { font-size: 38px; line-height: 47px; } .text-with-styled-background__text--worklife { color: #0052a1; } .text-with-styled-background__text--future { color: #002856; } .text-with-styled-background__text--culture { color: #472479; } .text-with-styled-background__text--earth { color: #0fbb56; } .text-with-styled-background__text--travel { color: #589e50; } .text-with-styled-background__text--blue { color: #0052a1; } .text-with-styled-background__text--collection { font-size: 28px; line-height: 34px; padding: 0; } .text-with-styled-background__text--collection--medium { font-size: 32px; line-height: 38px; } .text-with-styled-background__text--collection--large { font-size: 38px; line-height: 47px; } .text-with-styled-background__line-container { bottom: 0; margin-left: 13px; position: absolute; width: calc(100% - 26px); } .text-with-styled-background__line { background-color: rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.05); height: 26px; max-width: 240px; position: relative; } .text-with-styled-background__line--large { bottom: -10px; height: 42px; max-width: 340px; } .text-with-styled-background__line--narrow { height: 26px; max-width: 100%; } .text-with-styled-background__line--medium { bottom: -10px; height: 36px; max-width: 340px; } .text-with-styled-background__line--largest { max-width: 100%; } .text-with-styled-background__line-container--collection { width: calc(100% + 26px); } .text-with-styled-background__line-container--no-margin { margin: 0; } .text-with-styled-background__line--collection { height: 26px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .previous-media-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #000; border: 0; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 16px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; outline: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; } .previous-media-button__icon--white svg { fill: #fff; } .previous-media-button span { height: 18px; width: 16px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .simple-header { color: #444; font-size: 18px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 24px; margin: 0; } .simple-header--large { font-size: 28px; line-height: 34px; } .simple-header--simple { font-size: 18px; line-height: 22px; } .simple-header--small { font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: -0.5px; line-height: 28px; } .simple-header--smallest { font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; line-height: 24px; } .simple-header--medium { font-size: 24px; line-height: 28px; } .simple-header--regular { font-size: 22px; line-height: 28px; } .simple-header--condensed-bold { font-stretch: condensed; } .simple-header--condensed-bold.simple-header--large { line-height: 37px; } .simple-header--condensed-bold.simple-header--regular { line-height: 28px; } .simple-header--white { color: #fff; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .play-button__inline-audio, .play-button__inline-video { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #000; border: 0; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 16px; height: 49px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; outline: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 49px; } .play-button__inline-audio .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video .gelicon--play { color: #ececec; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; } .play-button__inline-audio--worklife .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--worklife .gelicon--play { color: #8beed9; } .play-button__inline-audio--travel .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--travel .gelicon--play { color: #002856; } .play-button__inline-audio--future .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--future .gelicon--play { color: #ffc857; } .play-button__inline-audio--culture .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--culture .gelicon--play { color: #472479; } .play-button__inline-audio--earth .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--earth .gelicon--play { color: #002856; } .play-button__inline-video:hover { background-color: #ececec; } .play-button__inline-video:hover .gelicon--play { color: #000; } .play-button__inline-audio { color: #fff; font-size: 22px; height: 50px; padding: 0; width: 50px; } .play-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); border: 2px solid #5ae9cb; border-radius: 50%; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); box-shadow: 0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 22px; height: 80px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; outline: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 80px; } .play-button:hover { color: #5ae9cb; } .play-button--white { border: 4px solid #fff; } .play-button--white:hover { color: #fff; } .play-button--white .gelicon--play { color: inherit; } .play-button--worklife { border: 2px solid #8beed9; } .play-button--worklife:hover { color: #8beed9; } .play-button--travel { border: 2px solid #002856; } .play-button--travel:hover { color: #002856; } .play-button--future { border: 2px solid #ffc857; } .play-button--future:hover { color: #ffc857; } .play-button--culture { border: 2px solid #472479; } .play-button--culture:hover { color: #472479; } .play-button--earth { border: 2px solid #002856; } .play-button--earth:hover { color: #002856; } .play-button--desktop { font-size: 30px; height: 76px; width: 76px; } .play-button--background-hover:hover { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6); } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .error-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #000; border: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 22px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; outline: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; } .error-button .gelicon--alert { color: #ececec; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .simple-p-tag { color: #444; font-size: 18px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 24px; margin: 0; } .simple-p-tag--large { font-size: 28px; line-height: 34px; } .simple-p-tag--medium { font-size: 27px; letter-spacing: -1.69px; line-height: 32px; } .simple-p-tag--quote { color: #575757; } .simple-header--serif-light-italic { font-style: italic; line-height: inherit; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .text-summary__text { font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; margin: 0; text-align: left; } .text-summary__text--blue { color: #193e6d; } .text-summary__text--black { color: #000; } .text-summary__text--grey { color: #6a6a6a; } .text-summary__text--dark-grey { color: #444; } .text-summary__text--left { text-align: left; } .text-summary__text--right { text-align: right; } .screen-reader-only { border: 0; clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); -webkit-clip-path: inset(50%); clip-path: inset(50%); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0; position: absolute !important; width: 1px; word-wrap: normal !important; } .inline-html { display: block; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .drop-capped { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; border: 2px solid #444; color: #444; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; float: left; font-size: 58px; font-weight: bold; height: 84px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin: 8px 10px 4px 0; text-transform: uppercase; width: 84px; } .drop-capped--worklife { border-color: #8beed9; } .drop-capped--future { border-color: #ffc857; } .drop-capped--culture { border-color: #444; } .drop-capped--earth { border-color: #002856; } .drop-capped--travel { border-color: #002856; } .drop-capped--desktop { margin-right: 24px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .close-nav { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: unset; border: unset; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; position: relative; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .close-nav__icon { color: #fff; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 20px; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .close-nav:hover .close-nav__icon { color: #cecece; -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } .close-nav__label { display: inline-block; margin-right: 12px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-label { color: #4e4e4e; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22px; margin: auto; max-width: 1280px; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .nav-label:hover { color: #8e8e8e; } .nav-label--menu { color: #ebebeb; } .nav-label--menu:hover { color: #cecece; } .nav-label--white { color: #fff; } .nav-label--curiousSans { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-links__link { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; padding-right: 24px; position: relative; text-decoration: none; white-space: nowrap; } .nav-links__link--active p { border-bottom: 2px solid #002856; font-weight: bold; } .nav-links__link--active--menu p { border-bottom: unset; } .nav-links__link--active--worklife p { border-bottom: 2px solid #0052a1; } .nav-links__link--active--culture p { border-bottom: 2px solid #472479; } .nav-links__link--active--earth p { border-bottom: 2px solid #0fbb56; } .nav-links__link--active--travel p { border-bottom: 2px solid #589e50; } .nav-links__icon { background-color: #0052a1; bottom: 10px; height: 2px; position: absolute; width: 80px; } .nav-links__link--menu { display: block; padding-right: unset; } .nav-links__icon--menu { display: none; } .nav-links__icon--menu-tablet { width: 60px; } .nav-links__icon--worklife { background-color: #0052a1; } .nav-links__icon--future { background-color: #002856; } .nav-links__icon--culture { background-color: #472479; } .nav-links__icon--earth { background-color: #0fbb56; } .nav-links__icon--travel { background-color: #589e50; } .nav-links__link--menu p { font-size: 26px; padding: 0 0 32px 24px; } .nav-links__link--menu-desktop p { font-size: 32px; line-height: 42px; padding: 0 0 44px 100px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .burger-nav { background: transparent; border: 0; color: #0052a1; cursor: pointer; font-size: 20px; outline: none; padding: 0; } .burger-nav--worklife { color: #0052a1; } .burger-nav--future { color: #002856; } .burger-nav--culture { color: #472479; } .burger-nav--earth { color: #0fbb56; } .burger-nav--travel { color: #589e50; } .burger-nav--medium { font-size: 16px; } .burger-nav--small { font-size: 12px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-menu { background-color: #0052a1; display: block; height: 100%; left: 0; min-height: 100vh; opacity: 0.98; overflow: auto; position: fixed; top: 0; width: 100vw; } .nav-menu--worklife { background-color: #0052a1; } .nav-menu--future { background-color: #002856; } .nav-menu--culture { background-color: #472479; } .nav-menu--earth { background-color: #0fbb56; } .nav-menu--travel { background-color: #589e50; } .nav-menu__close-nav { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin: auto; max-width: 1280px; padding: 16px 8px 60px; } .nav-menu__close-nav--desktop { padding: 20px 16px 70px; } .nav-menu__sponsored { background-color: rgba(34, 34, 34, 0.5); height: 100%; margin-bottom: 32px; } .nav-menu__sponsored--desktop { margin-bottom: 44px; } .nav-menu__sponsored-container { padding: 20px 16px 16px 24px; } .nav-menu__sponsored--desktop-container { margin: auto; max-width: 1264px; padding: 20px 16px 20px 100px; } .nav-menu__follow-us { padding: 52px 0 34px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .ad-slot { display: inline-block; } .ad-slot__container { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .ad-slot__label { max-width: 120px; min-width: 112px; padding-right: 8px; text-align: right; } .ad-slot--leaderboard { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; } .ad-slot__label--mpu, .ad-slot__label--leaderboard { margin-bottom: 8px; max-width: unset; padding-right: unset; text-align: right; } .ad-slot__container--mpu, .ad-slot__container--leaderboard { display: inline-block; -ms-flex-wrap: unset; flex-wrap: unset; } .ad-slot__fake--sponsor { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 31px; min-width: 88px; } .ad-slot__fake--mpu { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 250px; min-width: 300px; } .ad-slot__fake--mpu-large { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 600px; min-width: 300px; } .ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-large { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 90px; min-width: 728px; } .ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-medium { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 50px; min-width: 320px; } .ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-small { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 50px; min-width: 300px; } .ad-slot__label--dark { color: #dcdcdc; } .ad-slot--dark { background-color: #f6f6f6; padding: 8px; } .ad-slot--black { background-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.8); padding: 8px; } .open-nav { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: unset; border: unset; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: end; justify-content: flex-end; padding: 0; position: relative; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .open-nav__icon { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .open-nav__label { display: inline-block; margin-right: 12px; } .play-icon { background: transparent; border: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 12px; outline: none; padding: 0; } .play-icon--red { color: #f00; } .play-icon--grey { color: #999; } .play-icon--medium { font-size: 16px; } .play-icon--large { font-size: 20px; } .camera-icon { background: transparent; border: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 12px; outline: none; padding: 0; } .camera-icon--red { color: #f00; } .camera-icon--grey { color: #999; } .camera-icon--medium { font-size: 16px; } .camera-icon--large { font-size: 20px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-build-bar { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: auto; margin: auto; max-width: 1280px; width: 100%; } .nav-build-bar--mobile { height: auto; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; } .nav-build-bar--mobile .nav-build-bar__title-content { white-space: pre-wrap; } .nav-build-bar--tablet { height: 58px; } .nav-build-bar--desktop { height: 60px; } .nav-build-bar__links { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: end; justify-content: flex-end; margin-left: auto; overflow: hidden; } .nav-build-bar__sponsored-brand { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; margin-left: 8px; text-decoration: none; white-space: nowrap; } .nav-build-bar__sponsored-brand--no-brand { margin-left: 0; } .nav-build-bar__branding { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding: 0 8px 0 0; } .nav-build-bar__branding--tablet { padding: 0 30px 0 0; } .nav-build-bar__branding--desktop { padding: 0 80px 0 0; } .nav-build-bar__title-content { border: 1.78px solid; color: #444; font-size: 22px; font-weight: bold; margin: unset; padding: 8px; width: -webkit-fit-content; width: -moz-fit-content; width: fit-content; } .nav-build-bar__title-content--tablet { font-size: 24px; white-space: nowrap; } .nav-build-bar__title-content--desktop { font-size: 28px; } .nav-build-bar__open-nav { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 48px; } .nav-build-bar__open-nav-button { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding-left: 8px; } .nav-build-bar__sponsored { background-color: #f6f6f6; border: 1px solid #d3d3d3; height: 48px; padding: 0 16px; } .nav-build-bar__open-nav--desktop { padding-right: 16px; } .nav-build-bar__open-nav--mobile { -ms-flex-pack: end; justify-content: flex-end; max-width: 100px; width: 100%; } .info-icon { background: transparent; border: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 12px; outline: none; padding: 0; } .info-icon--red { color: #f00; } .info-icon--grey { color: #999; } .info-icon--medium { font-size: 16px; } .info-icon--large { font-size: 20px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .styled-dot { background-color: #5ae9cb; border-radius: 50%; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 1px 2px 0 rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.5); box-shadow: 0 1px 2px 0 rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.5); cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; height: 6px; width: 6px; } .styled-dot--no-cursor { cursor: unset; } .styled-dot--medium { -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; height: 10px; width: 10px; } .styled-dot--dark-blue { background-color: #193e6d; } .styled-dot--purple { background-color: #362e67; -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; } .styled-dot--black { background-color: #000; -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; } .styled-dot--grey-green { background-color: #008e9b; -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; } .styled-dot--dark-green { background-color: #589e50; -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; } .styled-dot--worklife { background-color: #8beed9; } .styled-dot--future { background-color: #ffc857; } .styled-dot--culture { background-color: #472479; } .styled-dot--earth { background-color: #002856; } .styled-dot--travel { background-color: #002856; } .styled-dot--worklife-prime { background-color: #0052a1; } .styled-dot--future-prime { background-color: #002856; } .styled-dot--culture-prime { background-color: #472479; } .styled-dot--earth-prime { background-color: #0fbb56; } .styled-dot--travel-prime { background-color: #589e50; } .styled-dot--large { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 1px 1px 0 rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.5); box-shadow: 0 1px 1px 0 rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.5); height: 16px; width: 16px; } .styled-dot--small { -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; height: 8px; width: 8px; } .styled-dot--grey { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .email-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 11px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .email-icon:hover { background-color: #000; } .email-icon--red:hover { background-color: #f00; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .facebook-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 15px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .facebook-icon:hover { background-color: #3b5998; } .facebook-icon--blue { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #3b5998; color: #3b5998; } .facebook-icon--blue:hover { background-color: #3b5998; color: #fff; } .facebook-icon--white { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #fff; color: #fff; } .facebook-icon--white:hover { background-color: #fff; color: #3b5998; } .facebook-icon--small { font-size: 20px; height: 38px; width: 38px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .hero-header { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .hero-header__header { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; color: #fff; font-size: 38px; line-height: 40px; margin: 0; text-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.7); } .hero-header__header--large { font-size: 44px; line-height: 48px; } .hero-header__header--medium { font-size: 38px; line-height: 47px; } .hero-header__header--small { font-size: 28px; line-height: 34px; } .hero-header__header--black { color: #000; text-shadow: unset; } .hero-header__header--grey { color: #adadad; text-shadow: unset; } .ticked-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #13de99; border-radius: 50%; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); box-shadow: 0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .ticked-icon--small { font-size: 12px; height: 38px; width: 38px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .google-plus-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 26px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .google-plus-icon:hover { background-color: #d34836; } .google-plus-icon--red:hover { background-color: #f00; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .reddit-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 26px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .reddit-icon:hover { background-color: #ff4500; } .reddit-icon__hide { display: none; } .reddit-icon--red:hover { background-color: #f00; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .linkedin-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: 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data-bbc-container="article-hero" data-bbc-title="Asia's version of the 'greasy spoon'" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"article-hero","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="article-hero b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 article-hero--gradient article-hero--small-mobile article-hero--small-tablet article-hero--desktop article-hero--large-desktop"><div class="article-hero__content"><div class="article-hero__content-labels"><div class="article-labels b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300"><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220311211311/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><span>Food & Hospitality</span><span class="article-labels__delimiter b-font-weight-300"> | </span></a><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220311211311/https://www.bbc.com/travel/tags/food-drink">Food & Drink</a></div></div><div class="article-hero__content-title b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 article-hero__content-title--small article-hero__content-title--tablet"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220311211311/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes"><div class="article-hero__title-text"> Asia's version of the 'greasy spoon' </div><hr class="article-hero__content-line"/></a></div><div class="article-hero__content-cta"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220311211311/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes">Read More<div class="article-hero__content-right-arrow article-hero__content-right-arrow--small"></div></a></div></div><button tabindex="0" class="article-hero__down-arrow"><img 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class="vertical-index__latest-articles vertical-index__latest-articles--mobile"><div class="latest-articles__container latest-articles__rectangle latest-articles__container--tablet"><p class="latest-articles__editor b-reith-sans-font latest-articles__editor--tablet">Editor's Picks</p><div class="latest-articles__articles latest-articles__articles--tablet latest-articles__articles--tablet-rectangle latest-articles__articles--mobile-rectangle"><div class="rectangle-story-group"><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles-container"><div><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="Japan's little-known seafaring past" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-group__article-hero rectangle-story-group__article-hero--tablet"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle b-reith-sans-font"><div 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srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220311211311im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bsfpvz.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220311211311im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bsfpvz.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220311211311im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0bsfpvz.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220311211311im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0bsfpvz.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="An aerial view of a small island, surrounded by water, with more land in the distance" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220311211311im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0bsfpvz.jpg" alt="An aerial view of a small island, surrounded by water, with more land in the distance" id=""/></picture><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__overlay 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the hills of England on a sunny evening","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220311211311\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","title":"Car driving in the hills of England on a sunny evening","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bpz96n","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220311211311\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881484},"p09pldr6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09pldr6","_id":"621d058b45ceed2c8966fc2a","copyright":"hadynyah\u002FGetty 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India","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220311211311\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","title":"GettyImages-1201530843-crop.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09pldr6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220311211311\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881484},"p09dxbd3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09dxbd3","_id":"621d055f45ceed2c8a7d1d5c","copyright":"SolStock\u002FGetty 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countryside","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09dxbd3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220311211311\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09dxbd3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881484}},"articles":{"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history","_id":"621e444e45ceed69f42e0ab4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"For Hong Kong’s British colonisers, there was only one solution to the territory’s stifling summers: ice.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe humid embrace of Hong Kong’s summer is heavy and hard to shrug off. The best antidote to such sultriness is found in a thick-stemmed soda glass half-filled with iced red bean, a deliciously syrupy mixture of sweetened, softened adzuki beans topped with evaporated milk and poured over crushed ice. It’s a Cantonese classic thought to be inspired by a popular Chinese dessert and given a Western twist in its diner-style presentation – and is best enjoyed beneath the whirling ceiling fans of one of the city’s \u003Cem\u003Ebing sutt \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ecafes, where Hongkongers have gone to cool down for decades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut it was not always so simple to escape the heat in Hong Kong. When the region was ceded to the British in 1841, the wealthiest colonists built large, shaded mansions on Victoria Peak, which offered relative respite from the muggy conditions, and they adorned their elegant dinner tables with tinned foods imported from their homeland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut for most of Hong Kong’s British colonisers, there was only one solution to the territory’s stifling summers: ice. Accustomed to the cooler climes of their homeland where they had access to ice houses for food storage, the acquisition of ice was of immediate importance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Accustomed to the cooler climes of their homeland where they had access to ice houses for food storage, the acquisition of ice was of immediate importance","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the 1840s, however, there was no way of freezing water in the humid city. Instead, ice had to be imported from North America, brought over on large ships by Boston’s “Ice King”, Frederic Tudor, where it was stored at the settlement’s first ice house. Completed in 1845, the Ice House Company’s building was well-situated on the water’s edge – which has since retreated some 700m through land reclamation – but the enterprise was relatively short-lived, and by 1850 it had closed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor the following decade, ice entered Hong Kong from northern China, where, much like in North America, it could be harvested from frozen rivers and lakes. By the early 1860s, the Tudor Ice Company resumed importing ice to the colony, around the same time a second cold storage warehouse was built across the road from the original. Today, this location is better known as “Ice House Street” and is situated in the heart of Central, Hong Kong’s financial and retail nexus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, it was not until 1874 that Hong Kong began producing the commodity the British so craved, when Scottish engineer John Kyle obtained a patent for the colony’s first ice machine and, in partnership with compatriot William Bain, set about selling locally made ice using vapour-compression refrigeration systems from a plant in East Point (present-day Causeway Bay). As automation eased ice production, larger companies soon became interested in selling it, and Jardine Matheson and Company (now known as Jardine Matheson Holdings and one of Hong Kong’s major conglomerates) bought out Kyle and Bain in the late 1870s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough neither of the original ice houses are still standing, you can walk to the top of Ice House Street on Lower Albert Road to see a rare architectural reminder of Hong Kong's early colonial past: a striking low-rise brick and stucco building that stands out amid a cityscape of glass and steel. Now home to the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hkfringeclub.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFringe Club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fcchk.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EForeign Correspondents’ Club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a non-profit arts organisation and a media-focused private members’ club respectively, it was built in 1892 as the depot of the Dairy Farm, a major food retailer that supplied ice and dairy products to nearby hospitals and local residents, almost all of whom would have been affluent expats.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, ice remained exclusively an expatriate concern for decades. As cold storage became more common in affluent households, imported meat and fruit began to grace British banquets, washed down with a well-chilled drink. Local diets, however, comprised fresh seafood, meat and vegetables, ingredients that required no refrigeration. In Chinese culture, then as now, hot water is believed to hold health benefits and is said to improve digestion and blood flow; cold water is rarely drunk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171207-hong-kongs-hot-pot-obsession\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHong Kong's hot pot obsession\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161109-a-sunday-ritual-for-300000-women\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Sunday ritual for 300,000 women\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170306-the-scent-thats-pricier-than-gold\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe scent that's pricier than gold\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut the pursuit of ice was not to remain a British endeavour forever. In the early 20th Century, it eventually entered Cantonese cuisine – and therefore culture – through bing sutts (literally, “ice rooms”), humble cafes where locals would go to enjoy an iced drink.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"People tend to forget now, but we live in a Hong Kong that couldn’t exist without air conditioning","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“People tend to forget now, but we live in a Hong Kong that couldn’t exist without air conditioning,” said Daisann McLane, who runs food and culture tours with her company, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.littleadventuresinhongkong.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELittle Adventures in Hong Kong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “At that time, electricity was scarce and nobody had refrigerators, so, the idea that in the height of summer in Hong Kong you could walk into a place and get a cold drink – it was a huge draw.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt the peak of their popularity in the 1950s and ‘60s, there were bing sutts throughout Hong Kong, and they played an integral role in the fast-industrialising city. For the hundreds of thousands of Chinese labourers who returned to Hong Kong after the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-pacific-16526765\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E1941-45 Japanese occupation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or who arrived in the colony to man its factories, bing sutts offered more than just a place of respite from a hard day’s work. The cool cafes also catered to their tastes, serving cold drinks like Hong Kong-style iced red bean alongside affordable Cantonese takes on Western food, such as pineapple buns – a sweet treat with a crunchy, golden topping that was conceived for local tastes and appealed for its perceived exoticism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut bing sutts were not exclusively enjoyed by workers. “Bing sutts were places for a family treat at the weekend or the first day of the month when father got the pay cheque,” said Patricia Chiu, honorary assistant professor at The University of Hong Kong’s Department of History. “Children were treated with these ice drinks and French toast or sandwiches. The good thing was that they could be divided and shared among a large family, with two or three kids sharing a drink through a few straws.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBing sutts could be easily recognised because they advertised their wares in a particularly unique way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The type of refrigerators used by bing sutts were designed to be put in the window,” said McLane. “That’s what they’re selling, they’re selling ‘cold’.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJohn Carroll, associate dean of the Faculty of Arts at The University of Hong Kong, agrees. “Even into the early 1970s, many Hong Kong people didn’t have refrigerators – many of the kids I knew when I was growing up here did not – so going to the bing sutt would have been one of the only ways to get an icy drink,” said Carroll, who spent his childhood and teenage years in North Point and Causeway Bay. “And even then, most people lived in small flats, so any excuse to meet in a restaurant or cafe would have been welcomed.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, only a handful of bing sutts survive, and those that do have evolved. Hong Kong licensing laws of the mid-20th Century dictated that the distinctive, cold-fronted cafes serve only drinks and food that did not require cooking, but as tastes changed, bing sutts were forced to expand their offerings or face obsoletion. Many faded out with the rise in living standards in the 1970s that saw air conditioning become a common convenience at home, while others were usurped by the \u003Cem\u003Echa chaan teng,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a Western-style diner still common on the streets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the surviving bing sutts, still distinguishable by their fridge-fronted facades, offer a window into Hong Kong’s unique culinary culture that fuses Eastern and Western influences through drinks like iced red bean, which recalls the popular Chinese dessert red bean soup but was given a European touch with the addition of shaved ice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAmong them, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.openrice.com\u002Fen\u002Fhongkong\u002Fr-guong-shing-ice-cafe-sheung-shui-hong-kong-style-r1078\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGuong Shing Ice Café\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Sheung Shui, a New Territories town near the border with China, makes a mean iced red bean drink; while Cheung Sha Wan’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.openrice.com\u002Fen\u002Fhongkong\u002Fr-sun-wah-cafe-cheung-sha-wan-hong-kong-style-r3361\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESun Wah Café\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Kowloon is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth egg tarts. On Hong Kong Island, an unassuming facade reveals little of the treasures awaiting inside \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.openrice.com\u002Fen\u002Fhongkong\u002Fr-luen-wah-cafe-western-district-hong-kong-style-bakery-r1960\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELuen Wah Café\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where the simple sandwich is elevated to culinary excellence thanks to unbelievably fluffy eggs folded between two slices of crust-free white bread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs nostalgia for “old Hong Kong” has risen in recent years, the city has seen a resurgence of the cold drinking dens – most high-profile of which is a collaboration between Douglas Young, co-founder of local design-based lifestyle store \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgod.com.hk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGoods of Desire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and Starbucks. In the coffee chain’s Duddell Street location, itself an ice pick’s toss from the site of the city’s first ice houses, retro tiling and Formica tables recall an old-school bing sutt. However, nothing can beat the original, as Sheung Wan’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.openrice.com\u002Fen\u002Fhongkong\u002Fr-hoi-on-cafe-sheung-wan-hong-kong-style-r1255\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHoi On Cafe’s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E perpetually packed tables nearby demonstrate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHoi On Cafe (which translates to “sea cafe”, because, much like the original ice houses, it used to be on the waterfront) is one of the last remaining bing sutts to advertise its offerings with a fridge in the window. Opened in 1952, and still run by the children of the original owners, the popular cafe is noticeable for its condensation-covered façade, behind which are bottles of soy milk on one side and pineapple buns and egg tarts on the other. To enter the impossibly small space is to travel back in time. Construction workers and students, office staff and confused tourists pack the cheery crimson-coloured booths and wooden stools jumbled around plastic tables, sipping red bean ice beneath whirling ceiling fans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe British might have introduced ice to the colony, but it was the Hongkongers who democratised it, making cold drinks accessible to all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-01-23T21:08:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The icy side to Hong Kong history","headlineShort":"Hong Kong’s little-known 'ice rooms'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"22.3193","longitude":"114.1694","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For Hong Kong’s British colonisers, there was only one solution to the territory’s stifling summers: ice.","summaryShort":"They offer a window into Hong Kong’s unique culinary culture","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:43:24.113415Z","entity":"article","guid":"870589db-d9af-407d-8810-2210e1a9135c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:02:49.452093Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881465},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores","_id":"621e444b45ceed517b638bcb","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The true star of the Akutagawa Prize-winning novel Convenience Store Woman is the convenience store itself. But what is it that makes these shops so magical?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn her popular novel, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgroveatlantic.com\u002Fbook\u002Fconvenience-store-woman\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EConvenience Store Woman\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Japanese author Sayaka Murata tells the story of Keiko Furukura, a worker at an unnamed convenience store who is struggling to find a place in a traditional society due to her status as an unmarried 36-year-old with a blue-collar job.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the true star of the unorthodox character’s story is her workplace, described as a tiny ecosystem, aimed not only at providing consumers nourishment, but also infusing their lives with new sources of joy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“A convenience store is not merely a place where customers come to buy practical necessities,” said Furukura in the novel’s opening pages. “It has to be somewhere they can enjoy and take pleasure in discovering things they like.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181009-japans-special-take-on-a-packed-lunch\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan’s ultimate travel food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow ‘real’ soy sauce should taste\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190130-the-mysterious-case-of-japans-dancing-zombie-squid\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan’s mysterious moving meal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough I read the Akutagawa Prize-winning novel before my trip to Japan, the description above struck me as overly romantic. However, as someone who has made the mistake of equating fast food with low quality, I was surprised to find that Japanese convenience stores, such as 7-Eleven, Family Mart and Lawson (the three companies that claim the lion’s share of the Japanese market), served as an introduction to local tastes, leading me to skip the basic crisps I’d usually grab at home in favour of sampling flavours like mayonnaise, \u003Cem\u003Eume\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a fruit in the plum family) and soy sauce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI also found myself considering freshly made \u003Cem\u003Eonigiri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E rice balls, grab-and-go udon noodles and traditional buns with flavours like pizza, sweet bean and pumpkin cream. It might not have been as utopic as Murata led me to believe, but even as a foreigner who needed help counting her change, the variety of the goods and the ease of finding a cheap lunch left a lasting impression.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It has to be somewhere people can enjoy and take pleasure in discovering things they like","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKaren Gardiner, a Scottish writer now based in the United States, lived in Tokyo for two years, beginning in 2005. As a temporary expat, she shared the joy I found in the country’s convenience stores (or ‘\u003Cem\u003Ekonbini\u003C\u002Fem\u003E’ as they’re referred to in Japan). Any nearby store became a regular part of her routine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I'd only buy food from an American convenience store if I was really desperate – actually, I went into a 7-Eleven [in Baltimore] a few weeks ago when desperate and still didn't buy anything,” she said. “They seem quite grim, like stuff has been sitting there for ages. I think someone visiting the US from Japan would be quite disappointed if they walked into a store here... I’d eat [in Japan] when I was out or on the way to or from work, or just needed a quick egg sandwich or onigiri.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYouTuber and Twitch streamer Cory May, who recently moved back to Japan after 20 years away from his home country, recalled his first impressions of convenience stores in the US. “I remember how weird it was to see Slushee machines and nothing but greasy hot dogs rolling around under a heat lamp at a 7-Eleven in America,” he said. “It was so weird looking to me for some reason.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGinny Tapley Takemori, Convenience Store Woman’s translator, explored some of those cultural expectations while in the US for a promotional event. However, it wasn’t disappointment she remembers experiencing, but rather confusion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We were quite surprised that audiences seemed to think that food in Japanese convenience stores was healthy, since that is not the general perception in Japan,” she explained. “We asked our hosts in New York to show us some convenience stores there, and found the food on sale even more junkier than in Japan, so maybe that’s why!”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShe continued, “I think the closest you have to convenience stores in the UK are the ones in petrol stations, which really don’t compare – they sell snacks and a few basic household essentials, but that’s about it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt is true that the consumer is given an unprecedented amount of choice in Japan’s fleet of convenience stores. In an attempt to appeal to locals, who often treat stores like a hub with multiple trips per week to pick up both food and household goods, new items are constantly introduced, marked with a big red sticker announcing its status as \u003Cem\u003E新発売 \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(‘now on sale’).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe numbers are staggering: Ken Mochimaru, head of Lawson corporate communications, estimates his company’s 1,463 Tokyo-area stores each stock 3,500 different items, including baguettes stuffed with fried noodles, Pringles-branded instant noodles and pancakes pre-sweetened with maple syrup, with 100 new items introduced every month.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome of the ever-rotating additions, such as multiple flavours of Kit-Kats (including matcha and the seasonal sakura sake), or thin icing-covered biscuits called Pocky, have gained international appreciation. (Gardiner mentions cream cheese-flavoured Balance Up cookies and sweets called Konnyaku Batake Jellies as two items she misses now that she’s moved away.) But while you can find global favourites like ice cream, biscuits and chocolate bars, much of the convenience store food is often more in line with traditional Japanese flavours. Pancakes filled with red bean paste – a mass-market version of \u003Cem\u003Edorayaki\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – are popular. Mochiko, a sweetened paste made from glutinous rice, finds its way into pastries and ice creams. And then there’s matcha. Biscuits, chocolate bars, cakes – each store contains an ocean of glucose in Japan’s de facto flavour of choice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere’s also a sense of underlying practicality to each store. Yes, snacks and novelty items are a big part of their trade, but the goal of the konbini is to be a one-stop shop for all household needs. Mochimaru highlights the bento box – pre-made, ready-to-eat meals in a box – as one such example.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBefore the rise of the 1970’s feminist movement in Japan, traditional family units meant more home-cooked meals. Now, with additional women entering the workforce, more people are opting for easy-to-eat options. While I eyed an udon noodle bento box marked with \u003Cem\u003E中食\u003C\u002Fem\u003E to indicate its status as a \u003Cem\u003Enakashoku\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or take-away meal, Mochimaru explained I was really looking at a piece of social cause and effect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The convenience store has emerged as an essential part of people’s daily lives","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The reason why Lawson focuses on nakashoku can be explained by the increase in the number of dual-income households,” he explained. “With both partners working, there is much less time for cooking, and bringing home bentos or ready-made dishes is a much more convenient solution. It helps to minimise the amount of time spent eating and to avoid doing the dishes.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut more than food, Japan’s convenience stores have succeeded in becoming a required part of many people’s daily lives, because unlike many of their overseas counterparts, they also offer a host of additional services. During her time in Japan, Gardiner recalls buying concert tickets at her local shop, and even now on return visits to the city, will stop in to use the free wifi – something that Mochimaru confirmed is part of his store’s larger vision of becoming a one-stop shop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The ongoing diversification of customer needs through the years has made today’s convenience store much more than a convenient place to shop,” he said. “As a facility whose lights stay on 24 hours a day, and which serves as a reliable cornerstone of community infrastructure in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-41827634\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eemergencies and times of disaster\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the convenience store has emerged as an essential part of people’s daily lives. The role it is expected to play has expanded to unprecedented significance.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThrough both selection and ubiquity, konbini seem to have gained cultural significance. And although Takemori, who now lives in a smaller village, no longer makes daily trips to her local shop, she still speaks warmly about convenience-store culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I don’t think Sayaka Murata has romanticised anything about it [in her book], really, although she likes to say that she has taken elements from different stores she has worked in over the years and created her ideal store,” Takemori said. “It is instantly recognisable to anyone who has ever visited one, right from all the sounds [described] in the very first paragraph.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShe continued, “In my translation, I added in sound words (like the ‘\u003Cem\u003Etinkle\u003C\u002Fem\u003E’ of the door chime or the ‘\u003Cem\u003Ebeeps\u003C\u002Fem\u003E’ of the barcode scanner and so forth) that weren’t in the original to try and recreate this experience for readers who have never been in one. They are very clean, and the store workers are nearly always super attentive.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA comforting promise, for any shopper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECORRECTION:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E A previous version of this story featured an image that wasn’t taken in Japan. We regret the error.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-06-11T20:48:56Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The unique culture of Japanese convenience stores","headlineShort":"The magic of Japan’s convenience stores","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The true star of the Akutagawa Prize-winning novel Convenience Store Woman is the convenience store itself. But what is it that makes these shops so magical?","summaryShort":"They not only provide nourishment, but infuse lives with new sources of joy","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:33:58.233175Z","entity":"article","guid":"8f1322c7-ad21-4637-b001-1029b6984361","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:50:46.849212Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881465},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young","_id":"621e445645ceed632a4a8265","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The goji berry, which has been part of Chinese culture since the 3rd Century, is now being viewed as one of the hottest superfoods available today.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites. Click \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201218-best-of-bbc-travel-2020\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the full list).\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHigh in the upper reaches of North-West China lies a land filled with riches. For it’s here, on the banks of the Yellow River and in the shade of the mist-covered Liupan Mountains that the people of the Ningxia region have been growing one of Asia’s most sought-after foods for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis small, oval-shaped berry has been called the “red diamond” as it is thought to have anti-ageing powers and has achieved \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcgoodfood.com\u002Fglossary\u002Fgoji-berries\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enewfound global status as a superfood\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but to the people of China, who have being using it medicinally since the 3rd Century, it’s simply called the goji berry or wolfberry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The goji berry is grown across China, but it’s Ningxia’s unique geology that has created the most revered version of the fruit","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe goji berry is grown across China, but it’s Ningxia’s unique geology that has created the most revered version of the fruit. “It’s the combination of cool mountain breezes, mineral-rich soil and vines irrigated by the famed Yellow River that make the goji berries from the Ningxia region so prized,” said Evan Guo, sales manager for \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gojihome.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENingxia Baishi Hengxing Food Technology Co\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an organic goji berry farm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe farmers in Ningxia still harvest the fruit in the same way they have done throughout history. From July to September each year, farmhands crouch in front of waist-high bushes laden with the plump tomato-coloured berries. They deftly pluck a handful of the sweet treats at one time from the vines before they drop them into a woven bamboo basket.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChina’s love of the goji berry dates back hundreds of years, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002Fbooks\u002FNBK92756\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETraditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) practitioners have long believed that it has medicinal powers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The earliest record of this is in the Compendium of Materia Medica, a historical medical text written by the famed herbalist Li Shizhen in the 16th Century. Ms Zhang Ruifen, a TCM doctor for Eu Yan Sang Traditional Chinese Medicine Clinic that has locations in China, Malaysia and Singapore, said, “It is a very extensive, celebrated record and goji berry is recorded in that book. Li stated what each herb looked like and how you should use it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Chinese view the goji berry as a both a fruit and a herb, and the berry that’s packed with vitamin C, antioxidants, amino acids and trace minerals, is prescribed by TCM doctors to boost liver and kidney function. “Chinese mothers may say that you need to eat it as it is good for the eyes, as it contains carotene,” said Zhang, who studied Chinese medicine in Beijing. “I would prescribe it to help boost the kidney and liver system, of which TCM believes that the eyes are a part.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190121-a-chinese-sweet-thats-a-homophone-for-reunion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Chinese sweet that’s a homophone for reunion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180905-nanjings-salted-duck-a-dish-fit-for-royalty\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENanjing’s salted duck: a dish fit for royalty\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190227-the-yum-cha-rules-you-need-to-know\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe yum cha rules you need to know\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt home, Chinese men and women will sprinkle dried goji berries over homemade chicken, red date and ginger in their “old fire simmer soup” (a clear broth cooked over a low heat) or into a flask of chrysanthemum tea to give themselves a vitamin boost. When Zhang prescribes it to patients, she combines it with a potent combination of other herbs: “We usually don’t use a single herb for the whole treatment; it is a part of a concoction,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, there are certain times that as a TCM practitioner Zhang says she will choose not to prescribe it so it doesn’t exacerbate the patient’s condition. “If a person has a fever, inflammation or sore throat, which we call ‘heaty’ in Chinese medicine, I would advise the patient to stop taking goji berry during that period of time,” she said. “If they were also suffering from ‘dampness’ and diarrhoea, which we call spleen deficiency, we say that you shouldn’t take it as well. But when you are fine, generally goji berry is suitable for everybody.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGoji berries have long been part of Chinese culture. Legend has it that more than 2,000 years ago a doctor visited a village in China where everyone was more than 100 years old. He discovered that they all drank from a well that was surrounded by goji berries. And the theory was that, as the fruit ripened, it would fall into the well and its vitamin-packed contents would seep into the water. Tales are also told of a 17th-Century herbalist called Li Qing Yuen who ate goji berries every day and was said to have lived until he was 252 years old. If this wasn’t enough to encourage future generations to eat the traditional old fire simmer soups that were garnished with goji berries, Chinese mothers would tell their children that the berries would stop them from needing glasses to get them to finish their bowls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut times are changing for this simple berry, including how it is consumed. The ancient goji berry, which has long been part of Chinese culture, is now being viewed as a superfood both in China and beyond.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAsia’s younger generations are embracing the goji berry, but giving it their own twist. For example, members of Gen Z are now buying “wellness kettles” for their goji berry tea. Their parents might recognise these as traditional soup kettles that have been repackaged by brands such as Buydeem and turned a more Instagram-worthy shade of pink. A \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.globalwellnesssummit.com\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2019\u002F11\u002FGWS2019_AmritaZanta_CaughtBetweenTraditionandModernity2.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2019 study by Agility Research & Strategy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Gen Z in China showed that this generation sees living a healthy life as a key priority, even over money, career, personal enjoyment and having a family.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe berry has also become popular with international consumers. Hooked on the “superfood”, people in the West are paying up to US$10 for a packet of the berries, around three times the price in Asia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe superfood price tag is encouraging farmers to make sure that their crop reaches the supermarket shelves faster. While the farmers in Ningxia pluck 180,000 tonnes of fresh goji berries each year from the vines, they sell most of their produce in dried form as the fresh berry’s shelf-life is short. The berries will ripen quickly in the hot summer sun, which means that farmers need to work quickly to gather their crop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn times gone by, berries would be left to dry on large trays in the sun, though modern technology has sped up this process to meet the increase in demand. Ningxia Baishi Hengxing’s owner, Mr An Weijun, who was born to goji berry farmers, launched an organic farm eight years ago. He also built a state-of-the-art laboratory where his team can dry their berries and those of other regional organic producers in a fraction of the time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe power of the goji berry doesn’t look as if it will dim anytime soon as there were a record number of goji berries (179 tonnes) sold in China during the recent Singles Day sales (China’s version of Black Friday). Asian trend spotters such as Amrita Banta, managing director of Agility Research & Strategy, has also seen young Asians embrace a healthier way of living:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“After many years of Chinese consumers shunning everything made in China as old and unscientific, we believe there is in China a renewed pride in many traditional products and practices,” she said. “Yet, the popularity of goji berries comes on the back of a global awareness of their properties. Today, Chinese youth eat them because they are considered a superfood, not necessarily because TCM indicates that they treat eye, liver and kidney ailments. It is fascinating to see China becoming so proud of its past, yet so connected to the rest of the world.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Today, Chinese youth eat them because they are considered a superfood","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYoung chefs in Asia are also using goji berries in their dishes to give them a little local flavour. It was the goji berry that Chef Anna Lim turned to when she was invited to make a limited-edition breakfast dish for fast food giant McDonald’s. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.thesoupspoon.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Soup Spoon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E owner created a savoury porridge with goji berries, and it became so popular in Singapore that it was added to the permanent menu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Adding goji berries gives a natural sweetness to the porridge, and with the combination of the colours of the green coriander, white tofu and the red goji berries, it became an eat your colours meal, elevating a simple rice porridge to something that is nutritious and healthy,” said Lim.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Lim is helping to introduce the fruit to a new generation, chefs such as Chef Chang Hon Cheong of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hongkong.grand.hyattrestaurants.com\u002Frestaurants-and-bars\u002Fone-harbour-road\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOne Harbour Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant at the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong hotel is still giving people the chance to enjoy dishes as Asian families would have done in their own mother’s kitchens. Dedicating a page of his menu to herbal tonic soups, the goji berry features among his traditional ingredients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGuests can take a seat in the Shanghainese mansion-style restaurant where Chang serves the double-boiled soups that he created with TCM in mind. Each day, Chang’s team methodically chops the health-giving ingredients and places them in a ceramic pot, which they immerse into a pot of boiling water. This slow-food process pays homage to TCM and to the farmers who have grown the produce. “Double boiling is a much slower and gentle process,” said Chang. “By double-boiling soup I can fully extract the nutrients and flavours in the ingredients.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBeyond dining out, health-conscious consumers wanting to embrace the superfood as Asian families have done for generations, can simply throw some goji berries into their soup or tea, and enjoy the taste of the sweet raisin-like superfood that keeps Asia looking and feeling young.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-eats\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Eats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that puts trendy foods back into their ‘authentic’ context, exploring the cultures and traditions where they were born.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-02-27T20:42:42Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The berry that keeps Asia looking young","headlineShort":"Asia's 'anti-ageing red diamond'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The goji berry, which has been part of Chinese culture since the 3rd Century, is now being viewed as one of the hottest superfoods available today.","summaryShort":"Its medicinal powers have long been recognised by traditional practitioners","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:45:15.261164Z","entity":"article","guid":"fbcd2856-bbc5-486b-989a-366f682bea2d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:37:15.519201Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881466},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes","_id":"622a6ca445ceed7f11308326","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fgary-jones"],"bodyIntro":"Serving up a rarely changing menu of quirky Canto-European concoctions, the cha chaan teng is at the heart of the city's singular cultural identity.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-china-60474342\"\u003Ea fifth wave\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the Covid-19 pandemic washing over Hong Kong, all restaurants in the city have been ordered to pull down their shutters by 18:00. Daytime business in the city's \u003Cem\u003Echa chaan tengs\u003C\u002Fem\u003E has mostly remained brisk, however. The quirky, no-nonsense cafes have long served up affordable staples to busy people needing to get in, chow down and get out in a hurry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe cha chaan teng – or \"tea restaurant\" – is the Hong Kong equivalent of the \"greasy spoon\" cafe, or perhaps the American diner. Frequented by everyone from tough construction workers to sharp-suited bankers to roughing-it celebs craving the cheap dishes they were brought up on, they offer a rarely changing menu of what has been called \"soy sauce Western food\": lowbrow, sometimes unusual but always comforting East-West hybrid fare that fuses the thriftier ends of the culinary traditions of two very different worlds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EModest but popular cha chaan teng dishes include fried eggs and spam in macaroni soup, sweet-pastry chicken pies, Hong Kong-style spaghetti Bolognese and baked pork chop rice (a not-so-secret ingredient often used in the latter two: ketchup), often washed down with strong black tea enriched with canned evaporated milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll are delivered superfast by cranky, harried staff in stark, egalitarian surroundings. Think Formica tables and foldout stools, bathroom-tiled walls and retina-searing strip lighting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsgczm"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Mido Cafe on Temple Street, Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon, Hong Kong","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo understand the origins of the cha chaan teng, one must look to when Hong Kong was under British colonial rule. In the years after World War Two and with the communist revolution in China, refugees flooded into the territory seeking respite from conflict and poverty. Between 1945 and 1951 alone, Hong Kong's population swelled from 600,000 to more than two million.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe menu preferences of Mayfair and Manchester had long been available in Britain's Far-East possessions, but the full-service European restaurants serving up such treats were prohibitively expensive for most Chinese. While life was tough for many in Hong Kong, there was, however, work with a burgeoning manufacturing industry – notably in textiles, toys and other plastic goods – and the opportunity for social mobility. Many profitable China businesses – and their cash – had also fled cities such as Shanghai to continue operating from the more stable British outpost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Western food became popular first with the wealthy Chinese and then eventually with the poor, who saw it as something exotic, although not necessarily delicious","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy the late 1950s, with incomes rising and tastes becoming more adventurous, Hong Kong's working-class diet became increasingly influenced by European customs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Western food became popular first with the wealthy Chinese and then eventually with the poor, who saw it as something exotic, although not necessarily delicious,\" said Susan Jung, previously food and drinks editor at Hong Kong's South China Morning Post newspaper, and who has covered the local dining scene for more than 25 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMilk was occasionally added to tea, Jung said, sometimes to be accompanied by cakes, sandwiches and other foreign confections. And so, the cha chaan teng was born, characterised by Canto-European concoctions that have variously been described as eccentric, weird, even trashy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsgcyz"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Satay beef instant noodles in Hong Kong cha chaan teng","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\"The food they serve is certainly unique and much of it came about through British colonisation, when they brought ingredients, cooking methods – such as baking – and dishes that the local Chinese were unfamiliar with,\" said Jung.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESuch dishes common to pretty much every cha chaan teng today include satay beef macaroni, curry-sauce chicken wings with crinkle-cut chips, fish chowder and fluffy scrambled egg sandwiches – always using the cheapest white bread and often with the crusts neatly cut off, as with English afternoon tea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"British custard tarts changed to Chinese egg tarts,\" added Jung. Borscht, the vegetable soup initially introduced to China by Russians fleeing revolution for Shanghai in the early 20th Century, and then to Hong Kong with revolution in China, remains popular in cha chaan teng. \"But now the red tinge in the soup comes from tomato, not beetroot,\" Jung said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history\"\u003EThe icy side to Hong Kong history\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAre Japan's 7-Elevens the best in the world?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe berry that keeps Asia looking young\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Anthony Bourdain swooped into town to shoot an episode of CNN's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fexplorepartsunknown.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParts Unknown\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2018, the New Yorker and his crew dropped by China Cafe, a family-run cha chaan teng that opened in the densely populated neighbourhood of Mong Kong in 1964 (it closed in 2019).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBourdain went for the noodles with spam and fried eggs in soup, and the \u003Cem\u003Esai do si\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or \"western toast\". Preparation of this artery-clogging delight, Jung explained, can vary greatly with the cha chaan teng. \"Usually it's two slices of cheap white sandwich bread layered with peanut butter, then dipped in egg and fried,\" she said. \"It's then topped with butter, golden syrup and sometimes condensed milk.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsgcjt"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A worker prepares \"pantyhose\" milk tea at the Lan Fong Yuen tea-diner","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBourdain also sampled a pineapple bun – a cheap cha chaan teng snack that, Jung revealed, actually contains no pineapple. \"It's an unfilled bun with a sugary, crumbly topping that is supposed to be scored in a pattern that resembles the markings of a pineapple, but many places don't bother with that anymore,\" she said. \"It's especially delicious when you have the pineapple bun split in half, with a thick slab of cool butter inside. It goes wonderfully with hot or cold milk tea, depending on the weather.\"\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E And when youthful Hong Kong democracy campaigner Joshua Wong was interviewed for the Financial Times' regular \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ft.com\u002Fcontent\u002F11b3cfba-f70a-11e9-a79c-bc9acae3b654\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELunch with the FT\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" slot, with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-china-49317695\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHong Kong's anti-government protests\u003C\u002Fa\u003E about to reach their dramatic peak in November 2019, it was no surprise that the PR-savvy activist pulled up a plastic stool at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.tripadvisor.com.hk\u002FRestaurant_Review-g294217-d17395600-Reviews-Tak_Yu_Cha_ChaanTeng-Hong_Kong.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETak Yu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a popular-with-the-people cafe hidden away in a down-and-dirty Wanchai backstreet. Wong coupled his fried rice with a cup of Hong Kong-style milk tea, which is a silky and aromatic cha chaan teng specialty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"As you can probably figure out from the price of a cup [usually about HK$20], the tea leaves aren't the best quality, so preparation is very important in making a good milk tea,\" said Jung, explaining that the Hong Kong drink is brewed strong and filtered several times – often through a long, stocking-like strainer – to make it smoother.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Smoothness is the most important part of good milk tea. It shouldn't be coarse or astringent,\" she added. \"It's served with evaporated milk, which also smooths out the tea and makes it richer than it would be with fresh milk.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDrinks are central to the cha chaan teng experience, said Jung. Other popular beverages include \u003Cem\u003Eyuenyeung\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an acquired-taste concoction made from two-parts milk tea and one-part black coffee. Then there's hot Coca-Cola with lemon and ginger; hot water with raw egg and sugar; and 7-Up with lemon slices marinated in salt (good for a sore throat, apparently). And \"red bean ice\", a signature cha chaan teng drink contrived from sweetened red beans, evaporated milk, vanilla ice cream and crushed ice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsgcdh"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Three pineapple buns on a serving dish","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith the local Cantonese cuisine also native to nearby Macau and China's neighbouring Guangdong province, the cha chaan teng is arguably Hong Kong's only unique dining experience. Though there are now such cafes in the Chinatowns around the world, the reliable cha chaan teng is at the heart of the city's singular cultural identity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravellers to Hong Kong frequently make a beeline for the most iconic cha chaan teng, which is\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003EInstagram-favoured \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002F%E7%BE%8E%E9%83%BD%E9%A3%B1%E5%AE%A4-Mido-Cafe-674985912688558\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMido Cafe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Kowloon's Yau Ma Tei neighbourhood, with its unaffected, retro interior pretty much unchanged since the 1950s. Now, however, like so much of what makes Hong Kong special, the cha chaan teng are under threat, gradually disappearing as a result of climbing rents over the past decade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs early as 2007, in fact, Hong Kong lawmaker Choy So Yuk saw a need to preserve the city's cha chaan tengs, proposing to the local legislative council that the cafes be put forward for inclusion on Unesco's Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Her proposal came about after a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.scmp.com\u002Farticle\u002F619524\u002Ftea-cafes-un-heritage-menu\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHong Kong poll\u003C\u002Fa\u003E found that seven out of 10 Hong Kong people believed their favourite cafes did not enjoy the recognition they deserved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Even many mainland [Chinese] tourists do not know cha chaan teng,\" Choy said at the time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey will, however, have likely seen them many times before on screen. Very few Hong Kong movies and TV dramas are without at least a scene shot in a cha chaan teng, with Mido Cafe providing a nostalgic backdrop in outings ranging from Wong Kar-wai's seminal Days of Being Wild to the brilliantly named Revolving Doors of Vengeance. China Cafe, meanwhile, proved a moody location for Johnnie To-directed action flicks PTU, Election and Fulltime Killer, as well as for gooey romance Endless Love and zesty comedy Once Upon a Time in Triad Society.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsgcc4"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A Hong Kong local style old restaurant \"cha chaan teng\"","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut in the end, the cha chaan teng was not added to Unesco's illustrious list, perhaps because of their humble, proletarian and decidedly unglamorous nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Why would the United Nations care about this place?\" shrugged office worker Tony, over a rushed breakfast of processed ham and fried egg noodle soup, at a bustling eatery on the edge of Hong Kong's high-rise financial district. \"It's just another cha chaan teng. Hong Kong has hundreds of them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-11T10:24:13Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Hong Kong's 'greasy spoon' cafes","headlineShort":"Asia's version of the 'greasy spoon'","image":["p0bsgd6g"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"22.286394","longitude":"114.149139","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bsgd6g"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200122-the-icy-side-to-hong-kong-history","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190610-the-unique-culture-of-japanese-convenience-stores","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Serving up a rarely changing menu of quirky Canto-European concoctions, the cha chaan teng is at the heart of the city's singular cultural identity.","summaryShort":"It's perhaps the only uniquely Hong Kong dining experience","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-10T21:24:34.145598Z","entity":"article","guid":"43b4db53-f8a4-4cb0-8255-8795aab688f5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-10T21:31:16.625418Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220310-hong-kongs-greasy-spoon-cafes","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fhong-kong"],"destinationStat":"asia_china_hong-kong","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881465},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees","_id":"621f93a445ceed427a35c6b8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Seychelles' Bird Island was once covered in coconut groves. When a local bought the island, he took it in a different direction – one that's turned it into a home for 500,000 birds.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you stand on the northernmost tip of Bird Island, it can feel like you're looking at eternity: there is ocean as far as the eye can see. The effect is similar when you snorkel off the same shore; not far out from the beach, the Earth plunges away into a dark oceanic abyss hundreds, then thousands, of metres deep. The feeling is akin to vertigo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBird Island is the most northern isle of the Seychelles' 115-island archipelago. It sits on the outer rim of the vast, undersea Mascarene Plateau, an extraordinary uplift of mid-ocean shallow water that covers an area larger than Portugal. The plateau begins at Bird Island and continues south for 2,000km, running almost the length of Madagascar. In the other direction, north of Bird, the Indian Ocean is deep, wide and uninterrupted by any landfall all the way to the Arabian Peninsula.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBird Island's geography alone makes its story worth telling. But in the past half-century, Bird tells a parallel story of natural renewal, one almost without peer in the world of birds. And it all has to do with the ultimate contradiction: Bird was once a tropical island with too many palm trees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A large group of birds gathers on a beach right near the water","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBird Island first entered the historical record in 1771 when the captain of a passing trading ship, The Eagle, described the island as \"covered with birds innumerable\" and with \"many sea cows (dugongs) on the beach\". He named it Bird Island. Thirty-seven years later, in 1808, the French privateering ship Hirondelle ran aground on a reef off Bird's north-eastern coast. Half of the 180 people on board died; the other half made it to Bird Island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey survived in part because it was September, when the island is filled with birds – a much-needed source of food. Even so, after 22 days, with limited water and with no prospect of rescue, six of the sailors set out on a makeshift raft for Mahé, the largest island in the Seychelles archipelago 100km south of Bird, and the shipwreck survivors were subsequently saved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor the next 150 years, very little happened on Bird. One enterprising farmer tried to grow papaya, cotton and coconuts; only the coconuts brought in any real income. In 1882, a passing British ship found two Africans living on the island, salting fish and birds in what must have been the loneliest of existences. In the decade following 1895, Bird exported nearly 20,000 tons (20 million kg) of guano (bird droppings) as fertiliser to the sugarcane growers of Mauritius. At the time, 100 people lived on the island. There has never been a town on Bird and the only people living on the island were those working there. Whenever trade dried up or crops failed, the workers left, leaving the island nearly deserted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the 1950s, only a handful of people remained, coconut groves entirely covered the island and the breeding colony of sooty terns had fallen from more than a million pairs to barely 18,000 because there were no restrictions on eating the birds and the proliferation of coconut trees meant that more birds were unable to nest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Bird was once a tropical island with too many palm trees","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen a Seychellois accountant named Guy Savy bought the island in 1967, world prices for copra (dried coconut) were in freefall. \"We ran it as a normal coconut plantation,\" said Savy, \"until it became clear that there was more money in birds than in coconuts – that wildlife tourism was the future.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGambling on wildlife over coconuts was a pioneering move. Bird was the first of Seychelles' smaller islands to go down that path. Making the bet even bolder was that, at the time, the only way to reach the country was on a monthly ship arriving from Bombay (now Mumbai) or Mombasa, Kenya. Back then, to get to Bird from the main island of Mahé, involved a 12-hour boat ride.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut everything was about to change. In 1972, Seychelles finally got its first international airport. By the time it opened, Savy had finished Bird Island's own airstrip in readiness. The following year, the island welcomed its first tourists with 10 chalets, rising to 24 a few years later. Savy completed a new lodge in 1993.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A tortoise heads along sand toward the sea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn particular, visitors to the island fell in love with Esmeralda: a giant male Aldabra tortoise with a nearly 2m long. He entered the Guinness Book of Records in 1989 as the world's heaviest tortoise, weighing in at 298kg. According to local legend, Esmeralda was born in the 1780s and arrived on Bird Island aboard the shipwrecked Hirondelle in 1808. If true, that would make Esmeralda nearly 220 years old, meaning he has been alive for almost as long as there have been people living in Seychelles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose fortunate enough to visit Bird Island could – and still can – also see green and hawksbill turtles, as well as the 23 other giant tortoises who live on the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211115-taiwans-acidic-underwater-hot-springs\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaiwan's acidic underwater hot springs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210422-new-zealands-endangered-penguin-hospital\"\u003ENew Zealand's endangered penguin hospital\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoyenne Island: The world's smallest national park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the real focus is the birds. When Savy bought the island, there were 15,000 nesting pairs of sooty terns – sleek, black-winged birds with an affecting black eye stripe. Sooty terns are remarkable birds. They have no oil in their feathers and are, therefore, unable to float. Most sooty terns only land when nesting and rearing their young. At Bird Island, that's from April or May to October.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Between seasons, they spend the whole time on the wing: they do not return to land to roost or to rest,\" said Rachel Bristol, an expert in sooty terns with extensive experience of Bird Island and its breeding colonies; she is currently collaborating with the Max Planck Institute of Animal Behaviour to track around 250 sooty terns. \"They obviously do sleep, but they probably sleep for short bursts frequently while flying, and may be able to shut down the two halves of the brain separately so that they are always aware of what is around them.\" Just as incredibly, she said, \"they can clearly spend years airborne: when they fledge, they possibly do not return to land until they reach breeding age, which is around five years old.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Two birds with bright underbodies stand on the ground","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESooty tern eggs have traditionally been considered a delicacy by the people of Seychelles, and, from the beginning, Savy prohibited anyone from eating the island's birds and eggs. Because rabbits and rats wreak havoc on these ground-nesting birds, his team eradicated them. Crucially, they also discovered that, because they need open, sandy soil on which to lay their eggs, sooty terns could not nest beneath the coconut palm trees, of which there were far too many on Bird. Savy cleared the coconut trees from the island's north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlmost immediately, the sooty terns returned: in season, there are now an estimated 350,000 breeding pairs, although the number has reached 500,000 in the past. The sooty terns on Bird nest, says Bristol, at a density of seven nests per square metre, spread across the 13-hectare breeding colony. Bird Island is now one of the world's largest bird breeding colonies – and, said Bristol, one of the most important and best-managed such colonies anywhere in the Seychelles archipelago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith so many sooty terns on an island that covers less than 1 sq km of land, it's easy to imagine that there would be little room for anything else. But the island's portfolio of resident and migrant avifauna is rich and varied and includes terns and tropicbirds, plovers and ruddy turnstones, shearwaters and even a resident population of the handsome Seychelles blue pigeon. Even the island's shape resembles a bird: if you look at a satellite image of Bird Island, it resembles in outline a coquettish dove adrift in the Indian Ocean. And so rich is the birdlife here that Bird took on a starring role in two episodes of Sir David Attenborough's classic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt0175394\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Life of Birds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, broadcast in 1998 and 1999.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt can feel like stepping into one of those episodes when you travel to Bird.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hundreds of birds flying in the sky","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt takes just half an hour to get between Mahé and Bird Island by plane. But they are worlds apart. Mahé is quite densely populated with plenty of modern infrastructure. On Bird, there are no motorised vehicles and the airstrip must be checked for tortoises before planes receive permission to land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt can be tempting to remove your shoes as you deplane on Bird, tuck them away in your suitcase and not put them back on again until it's time to depart. This is a place to feel the sand between your toes, to walk beneath the casuarina trees in the island's south or amid the remaining coconut palms that shade the walking trails of the interior. Birding is an essential part of the experience, with someone from \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.birdislandseychelles.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBird Island Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E always on hand to help you identify what you’re seeing. Best of all, there is nothing to stop you from walking all the way around the island – it only takes an hour – without leaving the beach. The only interruptions will likely be frequent stops for a swim, a snorkel or to gaze out to sea and the infinite horizon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECoral is everywhere: under the water; under the sand. \"It's a coral cay, as opposed to a granite or volcanic island like many of the other islands in Seychelles,\" said Savy. \"The prevailing winds come from the south-east, and over thousands of years they have pushed the coral over the island – that's how the island was created. If you dig down anywhere on the island, you won't find rocks. You find coral.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Birding is an essential part of the experience, with someone from Bird Island Resort always on hand to help you identify what you’re seeing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETravellers who visit between April and October will also hear the birds before they see them. The terns' gull-like clamour is a constant soundtrack, a reassuring evocation of remote ocean shores and deserted tropical beaches. But with darkness comes silence and more stars in the night sky than you ever knew existed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStay for long enough and you can almost feel the stress and noise of the human world ebbing away with the waves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnlike other Seychelles islands, which have exclusive, luxury resorts, Savy and his team have gone for simplicity, for a fidelity to barefoot tourism with nature ascendant. There is in-room electricity and wifi, for example, but ocean breezes flood the rooms instead of air-con.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We've always tried to keep things simple,\" said Savy. \"It's a back-to-nature experience. We don't compromise on that. We've never disturbed the island. We leave it alone and see what happens to it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-03T15:55:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A paradise with too many palm trees","headlineShort":"A paradise with too many palm trees","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aerial view of a small island surrounded by water","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-3.7196093","longitude":"55.2015406","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Aerial view of a small island surrounded by water","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Seychelles' Bird Island was once covered in coconut groves. When a local bought the island, he took it in a different direction – one that's turned it into a home for 500,000 birds.","summaryShort":"Cutting them down had a surprising result","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-02T15:56:02.811596Z","entity":"article","guid":"1e6bb3b8-810e-4cf5-8da4-d767c741a7db","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-02T21:09:04.383962Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881466},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park","_id":"621e445545ceed6b661ba9be","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Once a neglected wasteland, this paradisiacal eco-reserve stands as a reminder of what the Seychelles were like before tourism arrived.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMost people who buy their very own tropical island do so in the pursuit of luxury. Brendon Grimshaw was different. So, too, was Moyenne, the island in the Seychelles that Grimshaw bought. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrimshaw first came to the Seychelles – an archipelago of 115 islands in the Indian Ocean, only eight of which are permanently inhabited – on holiday in 1962. At the time, he was an editor working for some of the biggest newspapers in East Africa. It was an exciting time in Africa and, as part of his job, he rubbed shoulders with Tanzania's charismatic new leader and future president, Julius Nyerere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Grimshaw was looking for something more than a holiday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETanzania had declared independence the year before; Kenya would follow a year later; and Grimshaw, an Englishman, understood that jobs such as his would soon pass to locals. Knowing that he would soon be unemployed, Grimshaw searched for a new direction in life, one that took him closer to nature. He dreamed about owning land in the Seychelles – ideally, he'd buy his own island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn his first few weeks in the Seychelles, Grimshaw began to wonder whether he needed a change of plan: there weren't many islands on the market, and those that were had eye-watering price tags. On the second-to-last day of his holiday, a young man approached him in the Seychelles' capital, Victoria, and asked Grimshaw if he wanted to buy an island. Just like that. They travelled together to Moyenne, a 0.099sq km dot 4.5km off the north coast of the Seychelles' largest island, Mahé. Grimshaw fell in love immediately with its silence and its wild tangle of vegetation. It was, he would later say, close enough to be accessible from the Seychelles' main island, and yet a world away. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was totally different. It was a special feeling,\" he told a documentary film crew in 2009. \"This is the place I'd been looking for.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt four minutes to midnight on the last day of his Seychelles holiday, Grimshaw signed an agreement to pay £8,000 for Moyenne. The island was his. But buying Moyenne would prove an easier task than taking care of it. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESave for a family of fisherfolk who lived on the island, Moyenne had been abandoned for decades. With tourism starting to take off in the Seychelles, it seemed only a matter of time before someone cleared the land to build a five-star resort.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMoyenne is one of the smallest of the Seychelles' inner islands: it measures just 0.4km long and barely 0.3km wide, and its coastline runs for less than 2km. Its highest point rises to an altitude of just 61m above the water's edge. Moyenne possesses the same paradisical white sand and granite boulders that characterise so many Seychelles shorelines, but it's also home to a dense, unbroken wall of trees that cover the island, forming a low pyramid above the water's edge. It's a riot of green against cobalt skies and a sapphire sea, like a tiny rainforest erupting from the ocean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite Moyenne's diminutive size, restoring the island's natural beauty was a massive task. A combination of neglect and heavy-handed human intervention had left Moyenne dishevelled and gasping for air. Weeds choked the understorey, and the island was so overgrown that, it was said, falling coconuts never hit the ground. In the tangle of weeds, birds were noticeably absent and rats foraged in the undergrowth. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211209-the-hermit-of-socotra-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe hermit of Socotra Island\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160304-the-worlds-smallest-kingdom\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's smallest kingdom\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20161128-the-real-life-garden-of-eden\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe real-life garden of Eden?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy Grimshaw's side was a local named Rene Antoine Lafortune, the 19-year-old son of a local fisherman. The two became inseparable, and together they set about transforming the island, clearing the scrub, planting trees and forging paths through the undergrowth. It was painstaking, back-breaking work – and it became Grimshaw's life-long obsession. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrimshaw's initial goal was to protect Moyenne from overdevelopment. At first, this meant uncovering the island's raw beauty and building a humble island home where he could live out his days. But his longer-term dream was to create a natural paradise that would outlive him and remain protected long after he was gone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"His vision was to leave an unspoiled island for future generations of Seychellois and the world,\" said Suketu Patel, who first met Grimshaw in 1976 and became a lifelong friend. \"He wanted a mini-Seychelles. He wanted to try and replicate what Seychelles and its islands were like before tourists came.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt wasn't all hard work, though. While taming the overgrown north-western corner of Moyenne, Grimshaw found two graves. Their tombstones read, \"Unhappily Unknown\". Grimshaw became convinced that pirates from centuries past were buried here; one of the beaches on the island's north side is known as Pirate's Cove. The graves belonged to a pair of lowly buccaneers, so the story went, who were killed by two famous pirate leaders so that the dead men's spirits would haunt the island and protect the treasure. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhether Grimshaw really believed the legends is unknown. \"For him it was fun to get up in the morning, ask, 'What will I do today? Let's go look for treasure',\" remembered Patel. Today, there are two sites marked on maps of Moyenne with a skull-and-crossbones symbol, where Grimshaw and Lafortune tried their luck looking for, but never finding, the pirates' hidden treasure. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs tourism in the Seychelles grew in the 1980s and the archipelago became synonymous with a tropical island paradise, investors turned their covetous gaze towards Moyenne. Grimshaw received offers of up to $50m to sell the island. He resisted every overture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs Grimshaw grew older, he became increasingly aware that he had limited time left to protect the island's future. He had no children to whom he could pass on custodianship of the island, and when Lafortune passed away in 2007, Grimshaw decided to act. With Patel and others, he set up a perpetual trust to protect the island and signed an 2009 agreement with the Seychelles' Ministry of Environment that included Moyenne as part of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.snpa.gov.sc\u002Findex.php\u002Fmarine-parks\u002Fst-anne\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESte Anne Marine Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but granted it its own special status. With that, Moyenne Island National Park, the world's smallest national park, was born. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt can be easy to imagine Grimshaw as an eccentric figure. After all, he moved alone to the other side of the world, bought an island, believed in pirates and spent a lifetime restoring a seemingly inconsequential speck of land. But many Seychellois remain grateful for what he bequeathed to his adopted nation. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Personally, I don't think he was crazy,\" said Isabelle Ravinia from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.snpa.gov.sc\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESeychelles National Parks Authority\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"He gave the island back to the country, which was a noble thing to do. Normally people would try to sell off the island before they die so they can obtain money to do something else. Instead, he did something incredible.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrimshaw died in 2012 and his grave sits alongside that of his father (who later came to live with Grimshaw) and the two unknown pirates. At his request, Grimshaw's tombstone reads, \"Moyenne taught him to open his eyes to the beauty around him and say thank you to God.\" In his last will and testament, he expressed his final wishes: \"Moyenne Island is to be maintained as a venue for prayer, peace, tranquillity, relaxation and knowledge for Seychellois and visitors from overseas of all nationalities, colours and creeds.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe task of fulfilling Grimshaw's wishes now lies in the hands of the Moyenne Island Foundation, which is overseen by Patel. Apart from a restaurant – the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FJolly-Roger-Bar-Restaurant-1138105859556672\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJolly Roger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – that serves local dishes like grilled fish and seafood curries in a red Creole sauce, a small museum dedicated to Grimshaw's life and two nurseries for giant tortoise hatchlings, Moyenne remains undeveloped. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EAside from hiring your own boat, the best way to explore Moyenne is on a half- or full-day tour with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.creoletravelservices.com\u002Factivity\u002Fstarfish\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECreole Travel Services\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmasonstravel.com\u002Fpackages\u002Freef-safari\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMason's Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which also take in the other islands of the Ste Anne Park.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"How to visit Moyenne","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe island has no jetty and arriving here carries a special kind of magic: nowhere else in the Seychelles can match Moyenne's sense of deserted-island discovery as you wade ashore, barefoot, through the shallows. As you reach dry land and take your first steps along the gently climbing forest trail, the trees close in behind you and you enter another world. Dappled sunlight filters down through the canopy to the forest floor, the temperature is cooler, and the island's 16,000 trees – mahogany, palm, mango, pawpaw – planted by Grimshaw and Lafortune surround you. By \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.atlasobscura.com\u002Fplaces\u002Fmoyenne-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eone estimate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Moyenne has more plant species per sq m than any other national park in the world. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEvery now and then, you may find your path blocked by one of Moyenne's nearly 50 free-range giant Aldabra tortoises. They're in no hurry, and nor should you be as you watch them pass. Back in the shallows and by the beaches at Pirate’s Cove, watch for hawksbill turtles that often come ashore to nest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven during peak tourist season, there are rarely more than 50 visitors on the island at any one time, and never more than 300 over the course of a day. Six islands make up the Ste Anne Marine Park, but Moyenne is the only one, aside from tiny Ile Cachee, with no hotel development or other forms of private land ownership. And thanks to Grimshaw and his friends, Moyenne is likely to stay this way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There's something that grabs you when you go there,\" said Patel. \"If you think you have a big problem, when you're on the island you realise that it's not a problem after all. Moyenne is what life should be like.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-20T14:22:48Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Moyenne Island: The world's smallest national park","headlineShort":"The world's smallest national park","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-4.61667","longitude":"55.5088","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Once a neglected wasteland, this paradisiacal eco-reserve stands as a reminder of what the Seychelles were like before tourism arrived.","summaryShort":"It's home to 16,000 trees, 50 free-range tortoises and no people","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-19T14:23:34.319834Z","entity":"article","guid":"3f0d8256-c487-4b94-8fe0-6a49538ed911","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:31.37517Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881466},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world","_id":"621e445545ceed69dc515067","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"As of 1 December, Fiji instituted a quarantine-free travel policy to welcome vaccinated travellers from countries across the globe.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen the pandemic forced Fiji to close its borders in March 2020, the effect was immediately devastating to the island-nation's economy. In a country where the tourism industry accounts for 38% of GDP and employs more than 13% of the total population, the lockdowns meant layoffs, bankruptcies and permanent business closures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was a rough and trying time for everyone,\" said resident Leba Digitaki, programme manager for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frusticpathways.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERustic Pathways\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"The one thing that I am thankful for as a Fijian living in Fiji during the pandemic was the land and the sea. Our forefathers lived off the land and the sea sustainably for many years before the arrival and introduction of Western goods by foreigners.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the time the second wave of virus cases hit the island, many residents had planted gardens, and villages and communities began to use barter systems, with platforms and groups on social media that helped people trade crops and seafood for goods from the shops like flour, sugar, rice and clothes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThankfully, the arrival of vaccines was a \"game-changer\", said Digitaki, as the country made it mandatory to be vaccinated to go to work, to travel or to enter shops and restaurants. Cases drastically diminished. \"Over 91% of our eligible adult population, including tourism frontliners, are fully vaccinated against Covid-19,\" said Brent Hill, the CEO of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fiji.travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETourism Fiji\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It's an amazing feat for any destination.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Houses and boats of Lautoka Fiji Islands","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhy should I go now? \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe huge success in vaccination has made it possible for the country to finally reopen its borders – after 20 long months. As of 1 December, Fiji instituted a quarantine-free travel policy to vaccinated travellers from its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fiji.travel\u002Fcovid-19\u002Ftravelling-to-fiji\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETravel Partner Countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, those with high vax rates and low infections.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough the road ahead won't be easy, Digitaki and other residents are hopeful in routine returning to the islands, even if it looks a little different than before. \"It's funny to say, but there is a sense of normalcy now with the wearing of masks, vaccination cards as a sort of ID and social distancing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETravel with no trace\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite producing \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-asia-54138677\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eless than 1% of the globe's carbon emissions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Fiji's 333 islands are some of the most threatened by rising global temperatures. The nation has been a consistent voice in the importance of tackling climate issues globally but has also focused on sustainability initiatives on its homefront, especially within its tourism industry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.duavatasustainabletourism.org\u002F#vision\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDuavata\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a sustainability collective, brings together tourism businesses that have a like-minded mission to create visitor offerings that preserve the environment and integrate cultural heritage and communities, while also providing mentorship to the next generation of sustainability leaders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island welcoming digital nomads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211206-the-canadian-city-to-visit-this-winter\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Canadian city to visit this winter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's safest cities in 2021\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisitors can also make informed decisions on where they stay on the islands. Digitaki recommends resorts that have either a marine biologist or environmental officer on staff or have a clear sustainability and environmental programme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.namosieco.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENamosi Eco Retreat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is 100% Fijian owned and operated and gives visitors a chance to eat local food and sleep in traditional Fijian bures next to the Luva River – all without phones or electronics, as the retreat encourages a full digital detox. Oceanside, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.leleuvia.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELeleuvia Island Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located within the Lomaiviti group of islands, works to preserve its marine environment by coral planting and active monitoring of turtle nesting, whales and dolphins. The island's abundant wildlife can be spotted snorkelling, stand-up paddle boarding or atop a traditional outrigger canoe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"p0b9tbg0","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe pandemic highlighted the continued importance of embracing local ingredients and sustainable ways of eating here. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kanufiji.com\u002F\"\u003EKanu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is one of the restaurants doing it best, said Digitaki. \"The farm-to-table spot gives some of our local dishes a gourmet twist, and explains to the public the importance of reverting back to how our ancestors used to eat,\" she said. To see a local farm up close, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bulaccino.com\u002Ffarm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBulaccino Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E showcases native produce, sheep, ducks and chickens, as well as bees that produce medicinal honey for the farm's companion cafe, just 15 minutes away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EKnow before you go\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of vaccination status, visitors over 12 must provide a negative PCR test three days before departure. Upon arrival, travellers must install and activate the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcarefiji.digitalfiji.gov.fj\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EcareFiji app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which provides countrywide contact tracing. Most businesses require a check-in using QR codes within the app and proof of vaccination for entry, and masks are still required in public places like buses, restaurants and shops.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravellers must also book at least a three-night stay at a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fiji.travel\u002Fcovid-19\u002Fsafer-than-ever\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECare Fiji Commitment\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (CFC) certified property, a World Health Organization-approved programme that ensures high health and safety standards. The CFC provides an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftourismfijicomfj.sharepoint.com\u002F:x:\u002Fs\u002FCloudShare-Operations\u002FETOAEqQi5oNGrPSDNed3y2YBVef8wL36RVceXcViATLtDA?e=xdgbsc\"\u003Eupdated list\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of all the abiding businesses, which must have a completely vaccinated staff.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWithin 48 hours of arrival, visitors must take a mandatory rapid test at a CFC-certified resort – though you don't necessarily need to stay at the resort for that whole timeframe, as long as you're interacting solely with other CFC businesses and checking in with the app.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world-4"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-21T00:21:05Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The 333 islands opening to the world","headlineShort":"The 333 islands opening to the world","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Beachfront property on the island of Taveuni, Fiji","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"17.7134","longitude":"178.0650","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Beachfront property on the island of Taveuni, Fiji","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"As of 1 December, Fiji instituted a quarantine-free travel policy to welcome vaccinated travellers from countries across the globe.","summaryShort":"\"It's an amazing feat for any destination\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-14T00:35:21.989708Z","entity":"article","guid":"4e831a5b-5da1-40d0-9ce6-128c73e2eca5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:39:17.277402Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881466},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past","_id":"6229179f45ceed2570613131","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftom-schiller"],"bodyIntro":"For some 700 years, the Geiyo Islands were dominated by pirates – a key era in Japan's history that the country is developing new appreciation for today.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESpeeding along at 65m above sea level with an exhilarating view of islands in all directions and cargo ships in the churning waters below, I felt like I was parasailing. In fact, I was driving on the world's longest suspension structure, the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than 4km in length, the bridge is one of eight long-span bridges on the 60km Nishi-Seto Expressway, known as the Shimanami Kaido, which means Island Wave Sea Road. The only route through the Geiyo Archipelago – a group of mountainous islands clustered at the heart of Japan's main waterway, the Seto Inland Sea – the expressway connects the islands to Onomichi City on Honshu Island in the north and Imabari City on Shikoku Island in the south.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil the Shimanami Kaido was completed in 1999, the Geiyo Islands were a remote region, accessible only by boat. Around the islands are the most treacherous straits in the country. The Seto Inland Sea is where the Pacific Ocean flows through Japan; shifts in the tide create complicated underwater currents and fast whirlpools due to the islands' topography.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsfq9d"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A major road winds through mountainous terrain","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the Shimanami Kaido stops along busy fishing ports, valleys terraced with farming villages and lemon and mikan tangerine orchards – and even culinary gems like the sushi restaurant Akakichi, which \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fguide.michelin.com\u002Fus\u002Fen\u002Farticle\u002Ftravel\u002Feight-remote-destinations-wanderlust\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Michelin Guide highlights\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as one of the most remote stars in its constellation of restaurants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe route is also a journey into Japan's little-known seafaring past. From the 9th Century to the end of the 16th Century, the Geiyo Islands were home to pirates (\u003Cem\u003Ekaizoku\u003C\u002Fem\u003E). These were seafaring clans who, by virtue of their skill at navigating dangerous waters, dominated the sea lanes of the Seto Inland Sea – and terrorised the coasts of East Asia, raiding, trading and fighting battles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years, a new appreciation of the pirates has been popularised in Japan, in part thanks to historian and television presenter Junko Yamada. Her book Kaizoku Ga Tsukutta Nihonshi (Japan's History Made by Pirates), published in 2017, describes the pirates as \"heroes of the sea\" because of the important part they played in major turning points of the country's island-nation history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The most recorded information we have is about the Murakami Kaizoku,\" said Ken Tanaka, curator at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.city.imabari.ehime.jp\u002Fmuseum\u002Fsuigun\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMurakami Kaizoku Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Oshima Island, an archaeologist by training and one of Japan's foremost experts on the pirates. \"They were the largest group of pirates, three branches of the Murakami family who emerged sometime in the 14th Century.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In recent years, a new appreciation of the pirates has been popularised in Japan","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis was Japan's Muromachi era (1336-1573), when the former political order of central control under the shogun, Japan's military leader, had broken down. From 1467-1615, samurai warlords across the country divided Japan into independent fiefdoms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Together with the fishermen they recruited from the islands, [the Murakami Kaizoku] effectively ruled the Seto Inland Sea as their maritime fiefdom,\" said Tanaka. \"While many of the pirates raided ships and pillaged villages, the Murakami were different. They were sea lords and collected tolls from ships traveling across the Seto Inland Sea and also fees to ensure safe passage by providing pilotage and security by acting as escorts. They did fight sea battles, but as mercenaries and to protect their territory.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile territorial battles also were taking place on Japan's mainland islands, the Murakami, Tanaka added \"played a key role during the era by creating order on the Seto Inland Sea, thus facilitating trade, diplomacy and cultural exchanges\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was only once the Tokugawa Shogunate disbanded the Murakami, after reunifying Japan in 1615, that it was able to famously close Japan's sea borders and implement its policy of \u003Cem\u003Esakoku\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (national seclusion). That policy endured until 1853, when Commodore Perry of the US Navy entered Tokyo Bay with his fleet of \"Black Ships\" and forced the country to again engage with the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsfqmz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Armor and artifacts on display behind a glass case","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the Murakami Kaizoku Museum is also a visitor centre for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.japan.travel\u002Fjapan-heritage\u002Fpopular\u002F030f3fe8-6696-4cad-9b7f-7f50312583af\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\"Policemen Pirates of the Setonaikai Sea\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the thematic title of a Japan Heritage programme that traces 42 heritage sites across the islands related to the Murakami and their time. According to Tanaka, it is the most representative example of Japan's seafaring history in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.japan.travel\u002Fjapan-heritage\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan Heritage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E programme, which recognises cultural properties that tell narratives of the country's past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I found over the next two days of driving the Shimanami Kaido as a pathway to exploring a number of the sites via the islands' backroads, the Geiyo Islands are a microcosm of an extraordinary age. In addition to ruins of Murakami forts – one located on top of a mountain, a lookout tower from which the Murakami surveyed the sea lanes – I visited the largest collection of historical samurai armoury in Japan at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Foomishimagu.jp\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOyamazumi Shrine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is dedicated to the Shinto gods who protect sailors and warriors, and a Chinese-influenced pagoda at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.genets.co.jp\u002Fu1\u002FKOJOJI\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKojoji Temple\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, considered one of the finest examples of Muromachi architecture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA paradise with too many palm trees\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 333 islands opening to the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoyenne Island: The world's smallest national park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite the political fragmentation of the Murakami era, it was a time of commercial and cultural vitality. Japan's fast-growing economy was propelled by maritime trade through the Seto Inland Sea, which included trade with Ming dynasty China and with new arrivals – Dutch traders, Portuguese explorers and Spanish missionaries – who introduced new art forms, guns and Christianity to Japan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt later took 20th-Century bridge technology to achieve what the pirates once did through their boats and seafaring skill: weave the Geiyo Archipelago together, but this time, through steel, concrete, and high-tension wire. I joined other motorists and cyclists who had stopped at Tatara Shimanami Park Roadside Station to admire Tatara Bridge, the world's longest cable-stayed bridge when it was built (it now ranks eighth). Its slim towers and delicate cable fans – one set narrower than the other – gave the impression of a ghostly reflection of a mighty two-masted schooner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsfr06"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aerial view of a bridge with two tall posts","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENearly every aspect of the bridges' construction were world firsts, said Toshio Kutsukake, director of the Expressway Division of Japan's Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism. Chief among these was the development of concrete and steel composite materials. \"Tricky materials to work with,\" he said, \"because they affect the strength of the bridge.\" But they were critical to achieving the long bridge spans while minimising the abutments to protect the environment. The Geiyo Islands are located in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.env.go.jp\u002Fen\u002Fnature\u002Fnps\u002Fpark\u002Fsetonaikai\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESetonaikai National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Japan's first national park created in 1934, and there was a need to make the bridges blend into the seascape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I travelled the Shimanami Kaido, it was not at all congested, and with interchanges on each island, the route seemed made for exploring.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn its way, it was. Unlike two other roadways built as commercial routes across the Seto Inland Sea, the Shimanami Kaido was built to be a road for daily use, said Kutsukake. Construction began in 1975 after almost a century of lobbying by the islanders for a convenient and safer way to get to shops, schools and hospitals. In 1955, a tragic ferry accident resulted in the loss of hundreds of lives, creating additional pressure for the route.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are separate dedicated lanes for pedestrians, bicycles and mopeds. In one of the anchorage towers of the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge, there is even a lift that descends to tiny Uma Island (population 13).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"As I travelled the Shimanami Kaido, it was not at all congested, and with interchanges on each island, the route seemed made for exploring","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECyclists were the first to discover the Shimanami Kaido, making the challenging ramps up to the bridges, fast straightaways across them and winding roads in between them into one of the world's top cycling destinations. In more recent years, a growing number of new residents, attracted to the islands' slow way of life combined with the convenience of the road, have been working to make the islands themselves the destination.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmong them is Arashi Murakami, who in 2020 opened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwakka.site\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWakka\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a boutique hotel conveniently located midway along the route on Omishima Island, where I stopped for the night. Over a delicious fish stew, I learned that Murakami is a descendant of the pirates and a modern-day \"privateer\" – what we call an entrepreneur nowadays.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsfr97"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A man smiles in front of a bridge over water","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOriginally from Tokyo, his grandfather was one of the diaspora of Murakami who spread throughout Japan over the centuries and often told him stories about the pirates\u003Cem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EArashi told me that he first came to the islands as a cyclist and later moved his family to the island because, he said, \"I am proud of my heritage and wanted to provide the kind of amenities I wished were available when I travelled the road.\" In addition to the hotel and a cafe, he has added a water taxi service to offshore islands and arranges fishing excursions with local fishermen to encourage more tourists to visit the islands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERyu Morimoto, a founding member of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ohmishimawine.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOmishima Minna no Winery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, also located on Omishima Island, returned to the islands after living in the UK for 20 years. She recalls how prior to the construction of the Shimanami Kaido, locals dreamed of an easily accessible bridge to connect the islands. She never expected it to become a reality. Now that it has, \"life is much more convenient,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Each island has its own unique characteristics,\" she said. But, she continued, they share a history rooted in their seafaring past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The legacy of the Murakami pirates connects us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-10T10:08:36Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Japan's little-known seafaring past","headlineShort":"Japan's little-known seafaring past","image":["p0bsfpvz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"An aerial view of a small island, surrounded by water, with more land in the distance","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"34.256165","longitude":"132.9973339","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"An aerial view of a small island, surrounded by water, with more land in the distance","promoImage":["p0bsfpvz"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220302-seychelles-bird-island-a-paradise-with-too-many-palm-trees","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220119-moyenne-island-the-worlds-smallest-national-park","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For some 700 years, the Geiyo Islands were dominated by pirates – a key era in Japan's history that the country is developing new appreciation for today.","summaryShort":"Pirates ruled some of its islands for centuries","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Fisland"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-09T21:09:33.631352Z","entity":"article","guid":"58b73364-387b-4838-9194-648b6b852a68","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-09T21:20:54.901863Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220309-japans-little-known-seafaring-past","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fjapan","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_japan_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881466},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet","_id":"621e445a45ceed69f65ab41e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Pacific nation's audacious bid to become the world's first dark sky nation might provide a blueprint for the rest of the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf Becky Bateman had to pick just one star out of the 3,000 you can typically see in the New Zealand night sky, she'd pick Arcturus, the brightest star in the Boötes constellation. It shines orange, for one thing. And, because of that, is statistically most likely to have life orbiting around it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost nights for the past two years, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.underthestars.co.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eastronomy guide\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has used a green laser pointer and collapsible Dobsonian telescope to show people around the night skies of the Wairarapa, a rural wine region in the south-eastern corner of the North Island. Year-round, the nomadic guide meets people in public parks, backyards and on the wild beaches of the South Wairarapa coast. During New Zealand's clement summer months, as wine tourism peaks, she can be found waving her pointer, like a Jedi, high above the bushy, green vines of the region's popular vineyards surrounded by stargazers sipping pinot noir.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETours begin with an introduction to the Southern Cross and Milky Way and generally extend to chat about the origin of the universe and the fleeting time in which humans have occupied planet Earth. These days, as one of the Wairarapa's leading voices on the benefits of stargazing, Bateman is just as likely to end up urging guests to get behind the country's bid to protect the night sky. To her, a clear night's sky free from light pollution is one of the last wilderness frontiers facing the threat of extinction – and now is the time to act.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBateman is not alone in thinking this way. In late 2019, the Pacific nation announced a plan to become the world's first dark sky nation at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstarlightconference.org.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENew Zealand Starlight Conference\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Tekapo. Conference delegates from around the world were concerned about the world's increasing light pollution and its proven negative effects on human health and nocturnal wildlife but were heartened by the exceptional quality of starry nights in New Zealand and the country's growing appetite for dark sky conservation. They agreed the plan was audacious but believed if New Zealand could pull off such a crazy experiment, it just might provide a blueprint for the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Whitimanuka Retreat in the Wairarapa looking over the sea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a recent winter evening, Bateman set up her telescope on the frosty porch of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhitimanuka.co.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhitimanuka Retreat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. I'd hired her to join me at an off-grid cabin I'd rented in the hills of a working sheep and beef farm about an hour's drive from my hometown of Wellington.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the clouds cleared, Bateman unpacked and assembled her manual telescope, laid out half a dozen glass jars hand-painted red and filled with fairy lights (to subtly light our way while not obliterating our night vision) and set to work revealing the evening's constellations. Minutes into a description of where to find the Southern Cross (first, look for a kite-shaped constellation in the Milky Way), a shooting star flew across the sky.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"To me, the dark skies are humankind's last true natural wilderness. Potentially, they won't be with us in years to come","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Oh, wonderful. Did you see that?\" asked Bateman enthusiastically. \"I see 10 or so shooting stars every few hours I'm out here. Lately, though, I'm seeing more and more man-made pollution like Elon Musk's SpaceX satellite. To me, the dark skies are humankind's last true natural wilderness. Potentially, they won't be with us in years to come. It worries me – there's so much to lose in the world's obsession with space tourism and so many reasons to preserve what's here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen it comes to dark sky preservation on the world stage, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.darksky.org\u002F\"\u003EInternational Dark-Sky Association (IDA)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is the organisation responsible. Set up in 1988, it runs a dark sky conservation programme that recognises the quality of the world's dark skies using a five-pronged certification system. Within the system, dark sky sanctuaries rank highest as the most remote and often darkest places in the world, followed by reserves, parks, communities and urban night sky places.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo achieve IDA certification, a dark sky must meet a range of criteria, including protection from light pollution, accessibility to visitors and wide-ranging support from residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Telescope at Mount Cook Lakeside Retreat pointing into night sky","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2012, New Zealand's Aoraki Mackenzie community successfully applied to the IDA to become an accredited dark sky reserve. An inland plain region about 180km south-west of Christchurch, where large country sheep stations have been the norm for more than a century, Aoraki Mackenzie is rugged, isolated country dominated by mountain and lake scenery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.darksky.org\u002Four-work\u002Fconservation\u002Fidsp\u002Freserves\u002Faorakimackenzie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAoraki Mackenzie's 4,300sq km dark reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is the only one of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere and just one of 18 in the world. Two New Zealand communities, Great Barrier Island and Rakiura Stewart Island, have since become sanctuaries, with Wai-iti, a 135-hectare hunk of council land in Tasman District, now an IDA-certified dark sky park. Another 20 New Zealand dark sky communities – including the Wairarapa — are looking to follow suit and gain some form of certification.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's answer to the Northern Lights\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20151119-the-tiny-island-of-shooting-stars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny island of shooting stars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211111-new-zealands-180-million-year-old-forest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENew Zealand's 180-million-year-old forest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2019, it was Dark Skies Group Director at the Royal Astronomical Society of New Zealand, Steve Butler, who daringly announced the country's plans to become the world's first dark sky nation. \"It was more of an aspirational rather than a hard-and-fast goal,\" he told me recently. \"The IDA doesn't yet have an official dark sky nation designation. But when it does New Zealand will be first in line.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Are we obsessed as a people? Probably. We're definitely uniquely advantaged,\" he explained. \"Look, Kiwis are an outdoor people with easy access to the natural dark skies of the Southern Hemisphere. Very few of us have grown up without being awed by New Zealand's night skies, particularly those you see in national parks like Aoraki Mackenzie or Rakiura Stewart Island. Sure, not all of us know how to find the Southern Cross, but we're a far cry from 80% of the world's population who can't even see the stars of the night sky.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat's why when New Zealanders were asked to comply with the IDA's rigorous requirements to restrict outdoor lighting and switch to low-powered yellow lighting in regions such as Aoraki Mackenzie and elsewhere, by-and-large they were up for it, Butler explained. It's why Butler is confident even the country's urban centres, over time, will find ways to limit artificial light spilling into natural areas and reduce light use generally. It's also why more and more New Zealanders are joining the global chorus to save the world's night skies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Queenstown at dusk with Lake Wakatipu and The Remarkables, New Zealand","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery two years, for example, New Zealand hosts \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstarlightconference.org.nz\u002F\"\u003Ethe New Zealand Starlight Conference\u003C\u002Fa\u003E attracting hundreds of dark sky proponents from overseas and around the country. Dark sky associations eager to achieve IDA status are sprouting from Kiwi townships like weeds. Local mayors are talking about changing national planning and building regulations to keep lighting low. Even government entities like Waka Kotahi, New Zealand's transport agency, are looking to install IDA-compliant lighting on state highways that fall within dark sky areas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome New Zealanders, like Kaye and Luke Paardekooper, owners of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mtcookretreat.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMount Cook Lakeside Retreat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, have taken matters into their own hands. In 2015, the pair added a wine cellar and observatory to their 66-hectare luxury resort on the clifftop of Lake Pūkaki in Aoraki Mackenzie.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInitially, it was aimed at overseas tourists wanting an intimate, upmarket astrotourism experience to complement the kind of larger group tour they might experience at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.darkskyproject.co.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Dark Sky Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Based in the nearby township of Tekapo, the Dark Sky Project promotes the dark skies of the region, sharing both Māori and Western ideas about astronomy, and taking visitors to the University of Canterbury Mt John Observatory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the couple admit they too love to rug up, open the roof and simply gaze at the quiet blackness overhead. The ability to do that is what they want to hold on to.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The kind of sleep you get here, particularly during the long nights of winter, honestly, is second to none","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.royalsociety.org.nz\u002Fmajor-issues-and-projects\u002Fblue-light-aotearoa\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EOn a recent overnight stay, Kaye told me the country's bid for dark nation status, to them, was about much more than the likely boost to tourism. \"Dark skies are great for wellbeing – that's what we tell anyone who'll listen. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.royalsociety.org.nz\u002Fmajor-issues-and-projects\u002Fblue-light-aotearoa\u002F\"\u003EResearch by the Royal Society [of New Zealand] on the effects of blue light,\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for example, shows too much blue light at the wrong time of day can disrupt our sleep, our immunity, our hormonal balance and even our mood,\" said Kaye, who's spent more than six years on her local dark sky association board.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We don't have that light pollution here, which is why it needs preserving. Without the dominance of blue light, it's much easier to return to your natural circadian rhythms. The kind of sleep you get here, particularly during the long nights of winter, honestly, is second to none.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Exterior of The Dark Sky Project building, Lake Takapō","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Aoraki Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve Board member Victoria Campbell, of Ngāi Tahu tribal descent, the country's growing obsession with the night sky is encouraging for other reasons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's made Kiwis curious about their night sky heritage and the cultural traditions that underpin it,\" she said. \"New Zealanders come from a long line of astronomers, starting with Polynesian explorers like Rākaihautū who discovered Aotearoa (New Zealand) in an ocean-going \u003Cem\u003Ewaka\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (canoe) using the stars, sun and moon. British explorer James Cook used the same night sky to get here. In pre-colonial times, Māori used a unique calendar — one that began each year with the rising of the Matariki star cluster — to reflect on the year that had gone and plan for the year ahead.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn 24 June 2022, thanks to a 2020 pre-election promise by Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern, New Zealanders will celebrate Makariki – the mid-winter constellation that marks the Māori New Year – as a public holiday for the first time. About an hour before sunrise, people from all walks of life will come together, remember loved ones who have passed and look to the stars for hope and inspiration before sharing \u003Cem\u003Ekai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (food) and a hot cup of tea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor many, like Campbell, the revival of Matariki may be the country's boldest, best expression of dark sky nationhood yet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-03T00:18:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Saving the night sky: New Zealand's craziest experiment yet?","headlineShort":"The nation that's banishing light","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-43.594975","longitude":"170.141788","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Pacific nation's audacious bid to become the world's first dark sky nation might provide a blueprint for the rest of the world.","summaryShort":"Is this New Zealand's craziest experiment yet?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-02T21:20:54.662492Z","entity":"article","guid":"494818f1-cf18-49a1-8cbe-9853d57d5660","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:22.643358Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881467},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism","_id":"621e445945ceed67ff3d1972","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Although New Zealand's Pink and White Terraces were destroyed in a volcanic eruption in 1886, travellers can still explore this bubbling, boiling landscape today.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnce known as \"the eighth Wonder of the World\", the Pink and White Terraces that cascaded down a hillside in New Zealand's geothermal Rotorua region would have been a spectacular sight to behold. Created by geothermal waters flowing from the Earth's core that crystallised over hundreds of years, the silica terraces formed tumbling pools, staircases and waterfalls that were filled with warm, mineral-rich waters and steeped in historical and cultural significance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBefore the eruption that destroyed them in the late 19th Century, these natural wonders were New Zealand's most famous tourist attraction, luring wealthy travellers from around the world to bathe in the salmon-pink waters of the Te Otukapuarangi (Pink) Terraces (\"The fountain of the clouded sky\" in Māori); and visit the Te Tarata (White) Terraces (also known as \"the tattooed rock\" due to the patterns created by the crystallised silica), which covered seven acres and descended 30m into Lake Rotomahana.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPeople were also drawn by the tantalising health benefits of the world's youngest geothermal valley's healing waters, famed to aid arthritis, rheumatics, eczema and other debilitating skin conditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt wouldn't have been an easy trip to get there – intrepid travellers had to undergo a 75-day sea voyage from Britain to New Zealand, followed by a 200km steam train trip from Auckland to Tauranga and a horse-drawn carriage ride to Lake Rotomahana via Rotorua.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut these enormous silica terraces would have been a truly impressive sight for these adventurous tourists, who admired the tiers of basins, gazed in awe at the boiling geysers and climbed up the hillsides to have their photos taken and pictures painted for posterity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey were welcomed by the women of Rotorua's Tūhourangi tribe of Te Arawa Māori, who have occupied this volcanic valley since 1325 and who guided the international visitors by \u003Cem\u003Ewaka\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (canoe) to the terraces. This was the birthplace of international tourism in New Zealand, and these Māori were New Zealand's first tour guides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Steaming hot spring at Champagne Pool, Rotorua","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe original female tourism guides won the hearts of visitors with their grace, intelligence and warm hospitality. One guide, Sophia Hinerangi-Gray, also known as Guide Sophia, became the most famous woman in Rotorua and established a reputation not only as the principal guide to the Pink and White Terraces, but also as an educated philosopher and trusted friend to thousands of tourists. She was a role model in her community and encouraged local women to also become financially independent through their work as guides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I believe Sophia and all our tribal guides, who were all women, are to be admired,\" said Karen Walmsley, head guide at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.totallytarawera.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETotally Tarawera\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a family-owned Tūhourangi business in the greater Rotorua region. Guide Sophia was not only her role model, but her \u003Cem\u003Ekuia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (ancestral grandmother). \"These wonderful Māori women managed their \u003Cem\u003Ewhanau\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (family), work and tribal commitments with grace and were known for their organisational and entrepreneurial skills, their tenacity and for hosting with care people of many different cultures from all over the world.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200608-the-mori-tribe-protecting-new-zealands-sacred-rainforest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn ancient way to save the Earth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200518-why-is-new-zealand-so-progressive\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy is New Zealand so progressive?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210506-russias-eighth-wonder-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERussia's 'eighth wonder of the world'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDavid Blackmore, general manager at eco-tourism provider \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.waimangu.co.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWaimangu Volcanic Valley\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which covers the region where the Pink and White Terraces were located, agrees: \"The early tour guides were innovative, ground-breaking, hospitable, entrepreneurial and hard working. Visitors coming to the Tarawera\u002FRotorua area were New Zealand's first tourists, so they really led the way.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe guides had a strong spiritual connection to the land and a deep desire to look after it. Blackmore's team of local Te Awara guides still abides by three values that he says were very apparent in the early tourism efforts of guides such as Sophia. These are \u003Cem\u003Emanaakitanga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (welcoming, sharing valued time together), \u003Cem\u003Ewhanaungatanga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (respect for each other and openness) and \u003Cem\u003Ekaitiakitanga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (looking after this special place in the world).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Although it was a natural phenomenon and designated the eighth Wonder of the World, that's not how our people saw it – we knew nothing about other countries at that time and our concerns were about taking care of the land,\" said Walmsley.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the openness to invite others in and the responsibility to care for the land were sometimes at odds. In 1886, on a guiding tour to the Terraces, Guide Sophia witnessed a dire premonition of impending tragedy when she saw the water level in the lake dip sharply and then rise again. Historical records make note of her hearing an \"eerie whimpering sound\" shortly afterwards.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Picture of Mount Tarawera erupting in 1886","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the story goes, she then noticed a phantom canoe with a sole paddler. As the canoe came closer, she saw it had a crew of 13, each with a dog's head. These visions were seen as an omen and warning; a foreboding sign that ancestors were unhappy at the exploitation of their culture and healing powers of the land for monetary gain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Although the terraces are now gone, travellers can still explore this geologically fascinating landscape, often guided by descendants of the original Te Arawa tour guides","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe next day, on 10 June 1886, the so-called eighth Wonder of the World was destroyed when a volcanic eruption at Mount Tarawera shook the lands, and Te Wairoa, the village founded in 1848 to service tourists, was buried under choking layers of scoria, ash and mud. More than 150 people lost their lives and the terraces were swallowed by a 100m-deep crater caused by the blast, which later filled to form a new Lake Rotomahana, 10 times larger and deeper than the old lake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the terraces are now gone, travellers can still explore this geologically fascinating landscape, often guided by descendants of the original Te Arawa tour guides, such as Warmsley, who are continuing this legacy of hospitality and sharing of culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHalfway between Rotorua and Waimangu Volcanic Valley, is Te Wairoa, now known as the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.buriedvillage.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EBuried Village\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, whose archaeological sites have been excavated to the original floor levels and show the depth of mud and volcanic ash that ejected upon the village, and visitors can hear personal accounts of the eruption on a guided tour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.waimangu.co.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWaimangu Volcanic Valley\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, travellers can retrace the journey Guide Sophia took through the geothermal valley and follow in the footsteps of the first tourists, uncovering the stories of the Pink and White Terraces and the Tarawera eruption, and seeing the geothermal attractions and stunning crater lakes uncovered by the blast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETechnology is also bringing the Pink and White Terraces back to life through the augmented reality \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.waimangu.co.nz\u002Fplan\u002Fapp\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWaimangu app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which was launched in December 2018. Using a slider feature that compares the present-day views to how the scenery looked back in the 1800s, travellers can experience the size, scale and beauty of the natural wonder for themselves while immersed in the real-life bubbling, boiling landscape sights and smells.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View towards Lake Rotomahana, Waimangu Valley Volcanic Park","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"For New Zealanders, almost all of us learnt about the famous Pink and White Terraces at school,\" said Blackmore. \"The fact you can now revisit and see and touch and smell and feel the area makes the augmented reality experience very compelling.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWalmsley offers guests her own, personal insights into this geothermal wonderland, honouring the traditions of her ancestors by demonstrating how to use the hot sand and naturally boiling water to cook. She tells guests about the healing waters, which are still attracting tourists to soak in natural hot pools in the bush around Mount Tarawera, where the Tūhourangi people have lived for many generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The geothermal waters still help ease ailments and leaves skin soft,\" said Walmsley. \"In Guide Sophia's time, our people allowed visitors to come as long as they were under our guidance – we knew the geothermal waters were dangerous if care was not taken, and we're still helping to guide them today in the same way.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd, as Blackmore says, you don't even need to bathe in the water to feel the healing powers: \"People who visit the spot where the Terraces were always tell us the same thing. They tell us they feel something very special here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"section-header-textdescription\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Ftravel-journeys\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETravel Journeys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that transports you to some of the most breathtaking landscapes, far-flung locations and fascinating cultures on Earth.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-25T10:33:01Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The birthplace of New Zealand tourism","headlineShort":"A new look at the eighth World Wonder","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Old photograph of the Pink and White Terraces in New Zealand","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"38.2678","longitude":"176.4339","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Old photograph of the Pink and White Terraces in New Zealand","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although New Zealand's Pink and White Terraces were destroyed in a volcanic eruption in 1886, travellers can still explore this bubbling, boiling landscape today.","summaryShort":"New Zealand's Pink and White Terraces lured travellers from across the globe","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-24T22:33:39.818116Z","entity":"article","guid":"1d5fe172-ba00-4f7b-92eb-3fcd779af27b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:36:23.655931Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881467},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs","_id":"621e445245ceed6b661ba9b8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Hawaii's unusual 'o'opu can scale the islands' waterfalls, some more than 300m high. Scientists say they're mostly endemic, understudied and threatened by development.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESneaking past locals lingering on a smoke break and into a gully alongside an aging general store is not how one expects to begin a quest for a rare fish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Most of the streams along the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gohawaii.com\u002Fislands\u002Fhawaii-big-island\u002Fregions\u002Fhamakua-coast\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHāmākua Coast\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that I have been to seem to support populations of 'o'opu,\" wrote Tim Grabowski, head of the Hawaii Cooperative Fishery Research Unit of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.usgs.gov\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUS Geological Survey\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in an email about where to find the fish in question. The trouble is, despite dozens of streams along this 50-mile stretch of winding scenic seafront, very few – if any – are publicly accessible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo, I snuck down the precariously steep and muddy path into a canopy of leafy green to one of the most discreet and least obstructed access points. Here, the rural Hawaiian countryside fades into wild nature; wind and the rumble of pick-up trucks crossing the bridge overhead are replaced with humidity, nagging mosquitoes and a burbling brook.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"'O'opu are pretty easy to detect with a decent pair of polarised sunglasses,\" Grabowski said. And, yet, upon reaching the stream and looking into the clear brown water, not a single finned creature moved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E'O'opu – the Hawaiian word for fish in the goby family – most often refers to several species of unusual freshwater fish that navigate into inland waterways, some by scaling the islands' waterfalls using their mouths and suction-cup shaped fused pelvic fins. Four species of goby and one species of sleeper goby (a family related to gobies but that lacks the fused pectoral fin common to all gobies) comprise the remote island chain's only native true freshwater fish. Scientists say 'o'opu are mostly endemic, understudied and threatened by development around their native stream habitats.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese fish are small, unassuming and usually brown and camouflaged, mottled or striped (though the male of one species, 'o'opu 'alamo'o, is a notable exception as it can be half black and half bright orange during spawning season). And each species appears to prefer a specific habitat along a stream's length, with the most impressive waterfall climbers preferring the most remote and inland pools as adults.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith more than 200cm of annual rainfall, Hawaii Island's verdant Hāmākua Coast drips with waterfalls. North of eastern-facing Hilo, it's on the youngest of the main Hawaiian Islands; only around 500,000 years have passed since it emerged from the sea. This region is the steep backside of majestic Mauna Kea, at 10,211m, the tallest mountain in the world when measured from its underwater base. The volcano acts like a giant wall in the open ocean; the only surface against which clouds collide after more than 4,000km of nothing but Pacific heading west from Mexico. Here, streams are steep and short, and prone to flooding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOnly five native species of 'o'opu have evolved to tackle Hawaii's ragged jumble of freshwater streams and four of them have evolved the remarkable ability and drive to rock climb. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite this, said Grabowski, \"Hawaiian freshwater fishes are very understudied. There is not a lot out there in the literature about 'o'opu and there are still a lot of aspects of their basic biology and ecology that are largely unknown.\" What scientists do know, though, is fascinating.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They sort of leap out of the water and cling to the side of the falls","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"They sort of leap out of the water and cling to the side of the falls,\" said Richard MacKenzie, an aquatic research ecologist with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fs.fed.us\u002Fpsw\u002Fprograms\u002Fipif\u002Findex.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPacific Southwest Research Station\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, part of the US Forest Service. \"Then they sort of scoot up the waterfall in short bursts of energy, typically at the edge of the stream.\" Like other fish in their goby family worldwide, the fishes' pelvic fins are fused together to create a suction cup. The Hawaii fish use their suction and their rasping mouths, evolved to scrape algae from rocks, to haul themselves up the rocks in rapids, and further upstream, sheer vertical cliff faces.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAdaptation, separation\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHow far up a stream and inland each of the four species of climbing fish go seems to be related to their adult size. \"The biggest 'o'opu,\" said Grabowski – referring to 'o'opu n\u003Cem\u003Eā\u003C\u002Fem\u003Ekea (\u003Cem\u003EAwaous guamensis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E), which can grow up to a foot in length – \"may not get past the lower reaches of most streams.\" As you head further inland and up the mountain, larger species peter out and the smaller fish dominate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile juvenile 'o'opu nopili \u003Cem\u003E(Sicyopterus stimpsoni)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – which top out at around 18cm as adults – have been spotted scaling 41m drops, it's o'opu 'alamo'o \u003Cem\u003E(Lentipes concolor\u003C\u002Fem\u003E), the black and orange bicoloured goby, that's the strongest climber. It's been found in ponds atop some of the Hawaii’s highest falls, including the more than 300m-high plummet of Hi'ilawe Falls in northern Hāmākua's Waipio Valley. That's a long haul for a fish that grows no larger than 13cm. If a human were to accomplish the same feat, they'd have to scale a surface twice the height of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yosemite.com\u002Fwhat-to-do\u002Fel-capitan\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYosemite's El Capitan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, while being pummelled in the face by boulder-sized water globs after swimming upstream a full 4km longer than the length of a marathon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPart of efficient climbing is finding the path of least resistance. For the 'o'opu, that often means clinging at edges of waterfalls rather than in the middle. This poses its own challenges. \"The real trouble for a fish being out of water isn't breathing [as long as their gills and skin are wet],\" explained Grabowski. \"The real danger of being out of water is waste disposal.\" Fish, it turns out, also use their gills to dispose of nitrogenous waste. Without the ability to \"pee across their gills\", Grabowski said, a fish is in real danger of ammonia toxicity. Though scientists don't know exactly how, the waterfall-climbing gobies seem to have adapted to overcome this problem, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo, the question remains: Why go through the trouble?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAgain, scientists aren't certain. But many who've studied Hawaii's streams say it could be to carve out a niche for each species and avoid competition with one another. In other words: to be different and to survive. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191110-mexico-citys-walking-fish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMexico City's walking fish\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180916-hawaiis-trendy-word-thats-misunderstood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHawaii's trendy word that's misunderstood\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180422-in-hawaii-being-nice-is-the-law\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIn Hawaii, being nice is the law\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWaterfall-climbing gobies are present in perennial streams on all of the six visitable Hawaiian islands but Bob Kinzie, an emeritus zoology professor at the University of Hawaii at Mānoa on Oahu said, \"We have almost no idea of real population density or distributions on any of the islands.\" This makes it challenging to determine how populations might be changing over time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet, understanding how the population fluctuates may be critical to saving it. Hawaii's native ecosystem has experienced breakneck change in the 200-plus years since Europeans stumbled upon its shores. Invasive plants have claimed 60% of the landscape; feral pigs, goats, sheep and cows trample the landscape eating native plants and causing erosion; and towns and cities now thrive in former valley forests. As the archipelago is one of the world's most remote inhabited island chains, many creatures have evolved to thrive here and nowhere else, but those specific adaptations often prove detrimental when change comes fast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBecause of this, Hawaii has earned the unfortunate duelling nicknames of the \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtonpost.com\u002Fnational\u002Fhealth-science\u002Fis-hawaii-the-extinction-capital-of-the-world-exhibit-a-the-alala-bird\u002F2016\u002F04\u002F25\u002F3f45c6ac-f210-11e5-89c3-a647fcce95e0_story.html?utm_term=.c80e325ae94a\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eextinction capital of the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" and \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdlnr.hawaii.gov\u002Fecosystems\u002Frare-plants\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eendangered species capital of the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E,' with good reason: some 75% of all US plant and animal extinctions to date have taken place in the state and virtually all of its endemic wildlife is threatened in some way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The waterfall-climbing gobies are particularly at risk because their unique stream habitat","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe waterfall-climbing gobies are particularly at risk because their unique stream habitat – also home to two native shrimp and two native mussel species – runs through all of the islands' ecosystems from the shoreline to the high mountains. Any radical change along its length could alter the stream enough to impact the fishes' delicate ecosystem. For centuries, Native Hawaiians understood the fragility of the island environment and protected land in pie-shaped wedge communities called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww2.hawaii.edu\u002F~dhonda\u002Fahupua%27a.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eahupua'a\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that extended from the mountain to the sea. Modern community development has not been as kind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThough change and habitat loss continue to be a real and growing threat, that wasn't the problem with the stream in the gully behind the general store, but I didn't realise it at the time when I couldn't spot any 'o'opu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe problem was the stream's terminus – instead of mingling gently with the sea, it rained down a cliff face in yet another waterfall. The fishes' unique life cycle begins as an egg flushed downstream into the sea by seasonal floods. Because juvenile 'o'opu aren't born climbers – they swim against the current into streams and spend several days growing, and in some instances, morphing physically before manifesting the ability to climb – this stream was incompatible with the fishes' unique life cycle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFurther south down the coast, the paved ginger- and fern-lined paths of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdlnr.hawaii.gov\u002Fdsp\u002Fparks\u002Fhawaii\u002Fakaka-falls-state-park\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAkaka Falls State Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E lead to its impressive 135m namesake cataract and known challenge to waterfall-climbing gobies. Its torrent is audible well before the waterfall creeps into view across a valley, but it'd take a telescope to spot a 13cm fish from here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt the viewing platform, signage says \"'o'opu 'alamo'o\" – the regional name for the most skilful species of waterfall-climbing goby – and contains a nod to legendary Polynesian shapeshifting water dragons, or \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fthe.honoluluadvertiser.com\u002Farticle\u002F2002\u002FOct\u002F23\u002Fln\u002Fln42abob.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emo'o\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (hence the \"mo'o\" in \"alamo'o\"). It's a sort of regional wish-granting Loch Ness monster: feared and admired, though rarely spotted. The two creatures share a head shape, the sign says, but I see another parallel: though the tiny 'o'opu can't \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mauimagazine.net\u002Fthe-sacred-spine\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebring floods or change the weather\u003C\u002Fa\u003E like the mo'o is said to do, it isan indicator of native stream health. So, like the mo'o, the climbing fish are denizens and rightful guardians of the islands' precious freshwater resources.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps it's best that these unique fish are left to climb away from human eyes – their mythical feats matching their mythical name. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fnatures-curiosities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENature’s Curiosities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that offers a close-up look at the natural world, taking adventurous travellers on an unexpected journey of exploration.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-02-10T20:55:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The odd Hawaiian fish that climbs cliffs","headlineShort":"A fish's epic 300m climb","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Hawaii's unusual 'o'opu can scale the islands' waterfalls, some more than 300m high. Scientists say they're mostly endemic, understudied and threatened by development.","summaryShort":"It has evolved the remarkable ability to climb cliffs and waterfalls","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:01:25.858411Z","entity":"article","guid":"18917424-da06-4428-9f78-60cfbcd53057","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:22:33.402791Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881467},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220308-new-zealands-secret-lake-most-kiwis-dont-know":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220308-new-zealands-secret-lake-most-kiwis-dont-know","_id":"6227c57245ceed534822297e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbriar-jensen"],"bodyIntro":"A tiny lake in New Zealand's South Island is the crown jewel on an isolated pest-free island reserve that's reaping the rewards of regeneration.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's hard to believe there's a secret lake in New Zealand, a country where lakes take centre stage, from ice-blue glacial tarns to steaming, acidic volcanic pools. Even more surprising, this little-known lake is hidden in plain sight – on an island in one of the country's most famous lakes, where thousands of tourists flock to photograph a single \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.stuff.co.nz\u002Ftravel\u002Fdestinations\u002Fnz\u002Fcentral-otago-lakes\u002F98168632\u002Fworld-famous-in-new-zealand-that-wanaka-tree-wanaka\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewillow tree\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the water. But most New Zealanders have never heard of Arethusa Pool, a freshwater lake on the top of Mou Waho Island in Lake Wanaka, in the Otago region of New Zealand's South Island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we watched, gentle ripples ruffled the surface of Arethusa Pool, smudging reflections of the fringing native vegetation, so the lake looked like liquid \u003Cem\u003Epounamu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the greenstone gem treasured by New Zealand Māori. Two tiny rocky islands, resembling bonsai landscapes, adorned the lake like the upper-most decorations on a tiered wedding cake – for they are islands in a lake, on an island in a lake, on an island in the ocean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a country also renowned for epic views, this is up there with the best. Arethusa Pool is a tarn formed by glacial scouring in the last ice age. It appears suspended 150m above Lake Wanaka, which in turn is surrounded by range upon range of serrated mountains, including the spine-like Southern Alps that run the length of the South Island, some still snow-tipped in late spring, others swaddled in folds of cloud. There's no sign of civilisation, no hint of Wanaka township, just a 30-minute boat trip away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut there's more to this island than breathtaking vistas. Mou Waho, meaning \"outer island\", is the largest of four significant islands in Lake Wanaka. The 120-hectare bedrock pedestal is also a predator-free sanctuary protecting some of the country's most unusual endemic species, yet it's freely accessible and overnight camping is permitted. It wasn't always like this though, explained Chris Riley of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ecowanaka.co.nz\u002Flake-wanaka-cruise-island-nature-walk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEco Wanaka Adventures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who has been taking visitors to the island on half-day tours since 2006.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220308-new-zealands-secret-lake-most-kiwis-dont-know-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqg5yn"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Rock seat lookout on Mou Waho Island","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220308-new-zealands-secret-lake-most-kiwis-dont-know-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPre-European settlement, Mou Waho sustained magnificent stands of native hardwood trees, including \u003Cem\u003Etōtora\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and \u003Cem\u003Emataī\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, but in the 1860s a boat-building business on the island plundered the local resource and introduced exotic trees of radiata pine and Douglas fir. Sheep grazing and several wildfires devastated the native vegetation, allowing faster-growing wilding pines to take hold. When Riley first visited in 1991, it looked vastly different than today, with pines overshadowing native trees and far less biodiversity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1988, the Department of Conservation (DOC) took over management of Wanaka's islands and commenced pest eradication programmes, trapping rats, mice, possums and stoats and felling wilding pines. Community planting days reintroduced native trees, and in 1995 Mou Waho was declared pest free, paving the way for the reintroduction of an endemic bird that had been missing from the South Island for almost 100 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA new look at the eighth World Wonder\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe odd fish that climbs cliffs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENew Zealand's craziest experiment yet?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe buff weka (\u003Cem\u003EGallirallus australis hectori\u003C\u002Fem\u003E), a flightless rail about the size of a hen, disappeared from mainland New Zealand in the 1920s due to habitat loss and predation by ferrets, weasels and stoats. Ironically, these carnivorous mammals were imported in the late 1800s to control rabbits, which had been introduced in the early 1800s by European settlers for sport and meat. But the introduced mammals found flightless native birds easier to catch and are implicated in the extinction of several species. It's estimated that non-native predators, including possums and feral cats, kill up to 25 million native birds a year, prompting New Zealand's ambitious \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-48702762\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPredator Free 2050\u003C\u002Fa\u003E eradication programme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJudiciously, in 1905, 12 buff weka were transferred to New Zealand's Chatham Islands, about 800km east of the mainland, where they flourished. In 2002, a joint programme between Otago's Ngāi Tahu Māori community and DOC translocated 30 buff weka from the Chathams to Wanaka's Te Peka Karara Island for acclimatisation and breeding, with the aim of reintroducing them to the mainland. From 2004, 35 weka were released on Mou Waho, where their population has swelled to an estimated 200 birds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen our small tour group arrived at the island's landing area, a weka strutted up to greet us – clearly we were trespassing on its territory. Mottled olive-brown, with a sturdy beak and glinting garnet eyes, buff weka are inquisitive and cheeky, renowned for helping themselves at picnics. It strode out in front of us on the walking track like our personal feathered guide. Weka mate for life, and Wally, who resided near Arethusa Pool and was one of the original birds released, raised 29 chicks with partner Sally until his passing in 2020.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220308-new-zealands-secret-lake-most-kiwis-dont-know-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqg5v1"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Close up of two wētā","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220308-new-zealands-secret-lake-most-kiwis-dont-know-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EReleasing weka on Mou Waho was not without concerns though, as DOC biodiversity manager at the time, Stu Thorne explained. \"Our main concern was that they might decimate some of the lizards and invertebrates, particularly the mountain stone wētā.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220308-new-zealands-secret-lake-most-kiwis-dont-know-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Their name derives from wētāpunga, meaning \"god of ugly things\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220308-new-zealands-secret-lake-most-kiwis-dont-know-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENative to New Zealand, wētā have been around since before the dinosaurs. Flightless, nocturnal and omnivorous, they look like a cross between a cricket and a cockroach, with spiny hindlegs, a huge head and long antenna. If threatened they lie on their backs exposing jaws and claws, and if necessary, vomit up an irritant. Their name derives from wētāpunga, a giant wētā that grows up to 10cm long, meaning \"god of ugly things\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are about 100 species, but Mou Waho's mountain stone wētā (\u003Cem\u003EHemideina Māori\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) is particularly unusual. Part of the tree wētā group, the mountain stone wētā has evolved to live on the ground amongst rocks. Normally found at high altitudes of 1,000 to 1,500m, on Mou Waho it resides at only 300-475m. But most remarkable is its ability to suspend animation by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=HtDIqicyDQw\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efreezing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for weeks at a time thanks to an amino acid in its haemolymph, the insect equivalent of blood, which prevents ice crystals forming in its cells. It can freeze up to 82% of its body to -10C, the highest-known percentage for any invertebrate in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENo-one knows the impact weka predation had on Mou Waho's mountain stone wētā, but Eco Wanaka Adventures co-owner, Lee Eadie, decided she would increase the wētās' chances by providing \"wētā motels\" after seeing them at Wellington's ecosanctuary, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitzealandia.com\u002F\"\u003EZealandia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. With assistance from DOC biodiversity ranger Flo Gaud, woodwork students from Mount Aspiring College designed and built 40 multi-chambered timber motels, the first specifically for ground wētā. The rectangular lidded boxes, placed at ground level in shady locations around the island, are about 30cm long and divided into four triangular compartments, individually accessed via wētā-sized holes. Some have Perspex under the lids, so visitors can see the wētā, where males live with a harem of up to seven females. According to Gaud, it was thrilling for all involved when they found wētā using the motels, and exciting to learn they happily cohabit with Southern Alps geckos, in a win for both species.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERiley and Eadie, who embrace the Māori concept of \u003Cem\u003Ekaitiaki \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(environmental guardianship), have planted a native food tree on every island tour, totalling more than 8,000 trees. On our visit, we planted a small cabbage tree near a mature specimen whose spheres of strappy leaves waved like green pompoms against a brilliant blue sky. Starburst flowers of purple and puce hung from tree fuchsias, considered to be the largest fuchsia species in the world, and kōwhai trees dangled bunches of banana-yellow blooms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220308-new-zealands-secret-lake-most-kiwis-dont-know-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqg5t6"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Bonsai islands in Arethusa Pool on Mou Waho Island, Lake Wanaka","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220308-new-zealands-secret-lake-most-kiwis-dont-know-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBirdlife is flourishing on the island now, too. As we walked across Mou Waho to a natural rock-seat lookout, tiny tomtits and fantails flited among the snowflake mānuka flowers, bellbirds trilled and chimed and two kererū, native wood pigeons, intoxicated on berries, swooped millimetres from our heads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's been a conservation team effort, with truly visible success,\" said Riley, proudly. \"It's a spectacular ecological result that will only get better.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn time, Arethusa Pool will again be secreted behind thickets of lush, native New Zealand bush, just as it was before the arrival of Europeans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220308-new-zealands-secret-lake-most-kiwis-dont-know-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-09T10:06:02Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"New Zealand's secret lake most Kiwis don't know","headlineShort":"New Zealand's lake hidden in a lake","image":["p0bqg5yq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-44.53835","longitude":"169.06008","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bqg5yq"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220202-saving-the-night-sky-new-zealands-craziest-experiment-yet","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210209-the-odd-hawaiian-fish-that-climbs-cliffs"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A tiny lake in New Zealand's South Island is the crown jewel on an isolated pest-free island reserve that's reaping the rewards of regeneration.","summaryShort":"It's the crown jewel on an isolated predator- and pest-free island reserve","tag":["tag\u002Fisland","tag\u002Fnature-outdoors"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-08T21:06:40.680323Z","entity":"article","guid":"406aa0ac-f56e-458e-86ff-2139d6d94aa2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220308-new-zealands-secret-lake-most-kiwis-dont-know","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-08T21:14:02.097376Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220308-new-zealands-secret-lake-most-kiwis-dont-know","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnew-zealand","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia-and-pacific"],"destinationStat":"australia-and-pacific_new-zealand_australia-and-pacific","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881466},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet","_id":"621e445945ceed67ff3d1973","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Italy has a number of age-old pastries that resemble genitalia, like cannoli. But while they may induce a few giggles nowadays, their origins are linked to serious traditions.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Yup, it looks like one","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENaples has \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200415-how-to-make-pizza-like-a-neapolitan-master\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epizza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Rome has \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecacio e pepe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Sicily has cannoli. Arguably Italy's most famous dessert, cannoli are proudly displayed in nearly every Sicilian cafe and \u003Cem\u003Epasticceria\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, honoured on the island's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitsicily.info\u002Fen\u002Fcannoli-siciliani-2\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eofficial website\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and immortalised by Sicilians in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.independent.co.uk\u002Farts-entertainment\u002Ffilms\u002Ffeatures\u002Fstory-of-the-scene-the-godfather-1972-870492.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Godfather\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with the famous line, \"Leave the gun, take the cannoli.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut if you've ever seen a cannolo and thought, \"yup, it looks like one,\" you're not alone. The beloved Sicilian sweet does indeed resemble a phallus – and for good reason.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELegend has it that in the Sicilian city of Caltanissetta during Arab rule (around 1000AD), a harem of women created the treat – a fried, tubular pastry shell made of flour, sugar and butter that's filled with sweet and creamy ricotta cheese – to exalt their emir's masculinity. While this story can't be proven, as there are no written records, the notion of erotic pastries dates back centuries. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Ancient Greece, during the Thesmophoria festivities \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com\u002Fbooks?id=XR9YIaG0kIcC&pg=PA68&lpg=PA68&dq=cakes+breast+offering+isis&source=bl&ots=duRlQrqyg0&sig=ACfU3U24pZuPQ-olnusQe8c3aF1SGoYK7A&hl=it&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiy5vy444zuAhVmFlkFHVWPCSg4ChDoATACegQIARAC#v=onepage&q&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ein honour of goddesses Persephone and Demeter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, people consumed honey and sesame cakes in the shape of breasts to celebrate fertility and motherhood. The practice, which is thought to have originated in earlier rites held in Ancient Egypt to worship goddess Isis, later spread to the rest to the Mediterranean and to pre-Roman Sicily.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20171221-what-you-dont-know-about-panettone\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat you don't know about panettone\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200928-the-surprising-origin-of-burrata-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe surprising origin of burrata\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"20180723-whats-in-a-name-frances-fight-over-chocolate-pastry\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrance's fight over chocolate pastry\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Maria Oliveri, an expert in cultural heritage studies from the city of Palermo, sexual organs were not considered taboo in the ancient Greek and Roman worlds but were revered as symbols of abundance. “The sexual shapes of Sicilian desserts derive from that ancient world. Back then, it was important to have many children, as they would cultivate the land and provide for the family,” Oliveri said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy the 11th Century, the Norman conquerors had converted Sicily to Catholicism, and ancient traditions had \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com\u002Fbooks?hl=it&lr=&id=XR9YIaG0kIcC&oi=fnd&pg=PA67&dq=sexual+shapes+in+sicilian+pastry&ots=duQtSxoAk0&sig=RZSS_21rR0BvMbGfRcp6tY3rd8k#v=onepage&q&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emixed with Catholic traditions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; winter solstice observations blended into Christmas, and fertility rites merged into Easter. The age-old desserts endured and were preserved by nuns, who made the confections inside their convents for festivals and religious holidays.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor example, \u003Cem\u003Ecassata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a round ricotta cake usually decorated with marzipan, nuts and candied fruits), thought to be born during Arab rule to celebrate spring's renewal, became an Easter (and Passover) specialty. And like cannoli, a number of other age-old Italian desserts with erotic shapes have been passed down through the ages. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fricette.giallozafferano.it\u002FMinne-di-Sant-Agata.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMinne Di Sant'Agata\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or Minni di Virgini (a ricotta-filled half sphere topped with white icing and a candied cherry) was made to look like a breast in honour of St Agatha, a Roman-era martyr whose breasts were cut off for refusing the advances of a man, while the Feddi ru Cancillieri (cream and apricot jam wedged between two almond cookies) was created in jest to resemble the buttocks of a chancellor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Nuns didn’t make erotic-shaped desserts because they were sexually repressed","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Nuns didn’t make erotic-shaped desserts, as some people would think, because they were sexually repressed and wanted to have fun, but because they inherited an ancient tradition,” Oliveri said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESince the time of Ancient Greece, the making and therefore consumption of edible symbols was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com\u002Fbooks?id=dwMNIZXCKg0C&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eassociated with the ritual of sacrifice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and was thought to bring people closer to the gods. As this notion carried over into Catholicism, nuns were allowed to develop the confectionary despite medieval monastic rules that prohibited gluttony.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Carnival – a pre-Lenten celebration rooted in an ancient festival honouring Bacchus, the Roman god of wine and ecstasy (Dionysus in Greek) – the rules were bent further. According to Dario Mangano, a semiologist at Università degli Studi di Palermo who wrote a dissertation on the semiotics of Sicilian desserts, rules sometimes need to be overturned to be reaffirmed – and Carnival allowed for just that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was the only time during the year when catholic prudery would leave way for excess and uninhibited self-expression – and was the time to eat cannoli. Men would give the tubular sweet to women to hint at their sexual desires, singing, \"\u003Cem\u003EOgni cannolu è scettru d' ogni Re... lu cannolu è la virga di Mosè\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" (Every cannolo is the sceptre of every king… the cannolo is the penis of Moses).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESadly, most convents that have used the traditional recipes for cannoli (like Abbazia Nova in Palermo) have closed down, and only a handful of older nuns still know how to make them. And while cannoli are now ubiquitous across Italy, the best and most \"authentic\" ones can arguably only be found in a few Sicilian cafes such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.caffesicilia.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECaffè Sicilia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Noto, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Feurobardattilo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEuro Bar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Dattilo and some places in the commune of \u003Ca title=\"Piana degli Albanesi\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dissapore.com\u002Flocali\u002Fcannoli-siciliani-meglio-dattilo-o-piana-degli-albanesi\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPiana degli Albanesi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo help save the tradition, Oliveri opened a new pastry shop in 2017 inside the Monastero di Santa Caterina in Palermo called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.isegretidelchiostro.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EI segreti del chiostro\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (The secrets of the cloister), where she makes sweets from recipes she found through archival research and from aristocratic families that had acquired them from Sicilian convents. Unlike most shops that use industrially produced cannoli shells, Oliveri makes her own from scratch, preparing the dough, cutting it into circles, wrapping it on tubular moulds and then frying it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe day we spoke on the phone, she had just finished making 900 of them. According to her, handmade cannoli are tastier than the mass-produced ones because they are fried and sold right away, maintaining their intended crunchiness and flavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECorrado Assenza, pastry chef and owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.caffesicilia.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECaffè Sicilia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (and featured on Netflix \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=QFXaQpFsTNk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChef's Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), is the heir apparent of modern Sicilian pastry making. While other pastry chefs make several cannoli variants, such as rolling them in pistachio granule or filling them with chocolate-flavoured ricotta, he follows the simpler traditional recipe and fills his shells to order, so they remain crispy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Cannoli has become Sicily’s icon,” Assenza said. “And for me it is the manifest of contemporary food culture, in the version we propose at Caffè Sicilia.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAssenza stresses that great ingredients are fundamental for great cannoli. For example, for more than 20 years, he has used ricotta made by Franzo Spada, a local shepherd and owner of La Pecora Nera dairy, who practices transhumance (an ancient practice of moving sheep to seasonal grazing areas), believing that better foraging leads to better milk, and therefore, better ricotta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The ricotta that arrives at the cafe three times a week is a unique heritage,\" he said. \"Nothing has to disturb [the shell and filling] because you need to leave space to flour, ricotta and the other ingredients, to become a micro masterpiece.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EApart from the ones made by traditionalists like Assenza and Oliveri, most Sicilian cannoli have changed in flavour and ingredients over time – due to technological advancement and the influence of other cultures – and have spread around the world. Nowadays, for instance, you can find variations such as multi-flavoured cannoli in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nycgo.com\u002Fboroughs-neighborhoods\u002Fmanhattan\u002Flittle-italy\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENew York's Little Italy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mikespastry.com\u002Fmenu\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBoston's North End\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hy-vee.com\u002Frecipes-ideas\u002Frecipes\u002Fmaple-bacon-cannolis\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eversion with maple and bacon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Sweden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut despite the departures from the original, the cannolo's structure – which makes it so hard to eat without creating a mess – has remained the same. \"If cannoli is more than 1,000 years old, it's because it met the taste of every epoch,\" Assenza said. \"I hope that it will remain a popular sweet that many will buy.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-14T20:56:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The erotic origins of Italy's most famous sweet","headlineShort":"The erotic design of Italian pastries","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Italy has a number of age-old pastries that resemble genitalia, like cannoli. But while they may induce a few giggles nowadays, their origins are linked to serious traditions.","summaryShort":"Their origins are linked to serious traditions dating back to Ancient Egypt","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:00:11.076256Z","entity":"article","guid":"4753c281-6222-49ec-b5e7-0b7304130c0c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:21:03.413946Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881468},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat","_id":"621e445345ceed6b6f3509bb","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A chef is unearthing recipes from one of the world's oldest cookbooks to reveal the origin of Italian food.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's sunset in Rome, outside the city walls. Golden light filters through umbrella pines and casts its glow on a straight stretch of smooth basalt stones that changed the course of history. This is the Appian Way, the first road built in Rome, where more than 2,000 years ago soldiers set out to conquer distant lands and returned in triumph.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Romans were nature lovers and sensual pleasure seekers who greatly appreciated good food","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe road is the heart of Rome's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.parcoarcheologicoappiaantica.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAppia Antica Archaeological Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an expansive green wedge that stretches from the edge of the city's historical centre to the hillside villages of the Castelli Romani. This 4,700-hectare oasis is the second largest urban park in Europe – dotted with aqueducts, nature reserves, archaeological sites, vineyards, pastures and villas owned by such luminaries as designer Valentino and actress Gina Lollobrigida.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELess than 3km from the Colosseum's crowds, the \u003Cem\u003Eparco\u003C\u002Fem\u003E gives travellers a place to slow down and leisurely experience the Roman countryside, complete with birdsong and sightings of shepherds leading their flocks. The scattering of ruins adds a certain \u003Cem\u003Ememento mori \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethat enchanted painters and poets of the Grand Tour, as you feel the circle of life standing on this old road: soft breeze carrying the scent of fresh grass, crumbling stones carrying stories from the past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People relaxing near the Aqua Claudia in Rome's Park of the Aqueducts","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs this is Italy, good food must complete the idyllic scene. Enter Paolo Magnanimi, of the Appian Way's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhostariaanticaroma.plateform.app\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHostaria Antica Roma\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The restaurant is located within sight of the park's iconic Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella and fronted by a flower and vegetable garden tended by Magnanimi's father, Massimo. Inside, the menu lists dishes that can't be found at any other restaurant in the city, or perhaps in the world. Behind these creations is Magnanimi, a cook passionate about creating and serving meals that are deeply rooted in this park's history, from the days of ancient Rome.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor most, ancient Roman food doesn't sound appealing. What first comes to mind are freakish scenes like Trimalchio's banquet in the 1st-Century AD story \u003Cem\u003ESatyricon\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, where a nouveau riche host throws an ostentatious feast that includes such \"delicacies\" as bull's testicles, sow's udders and a hare decorated with wings to resemble Pegasus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180604-has-rome-declared-an-artichoke-war\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHas Rome declared an artichoke war?\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly's beloved 3-ingredient pasta dish\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191103-the-worlds-oldest-known-recipes-decoded\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's oldest known recipes decoded\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Magnanimi keeps it real, recreating delicious dishes that regular Romans ate, not the exotic fare that was reserved for the super elite. A chef and historian who has spent more than 25 years studying ancient recipes, Magnanimi says Romans were nature lovers and sensual pleasure seekers who greatly appreciated good food, though over-indulging was very \"un-Roman\". Grains, legumes, vegetables, eggs and cheeses were the base of the diet, with fruit and honey for sweetness. Meat (mostly pork), and fish were used sparingly, and as the empire expanded beginning in the 3rd Century BC, Romans welcomed new flavours – be it pepper from India or lemons from Persia. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171011-the-ancient-condiment-that-came-back-from-the-dead\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGarum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, similar to an Asian fish sauce, was liberally used to add a rich umami flavour to Roman dishes. All this was enjoyed with honeyed wine at dinners called \u003Cem\u003Econvivium\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – gatherings to celebrate life and the seasons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMagnanimi embodies this spirit of celebration, whether telling stories to guests or stirring up something delicious in his kitchen. Now 54, he laughs telling me how as a younger man he had a hard time convincing his father that customers would like his revivals of ancient dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Appian Way was the first major long-distance road of the ancient Romans","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I started working in the Hostaria when I was 14 and took a break to have my 'Jack Kerouac' years in the USA,\" he said. \"When I came back, I had a new appreciation for the great history of Rome, and I was hungry to learn more about it.\" Magnanimi's inspiration grew when a friend gave him Dinner with Lucullo, a book full of stories and recipes from the days of ancient Rome. Its title character was a 1st-Century BC military man who was so famous for his banquets that Romans still praise a good dinner by saying, \"that was a meal worthy of Lucullo.\"\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EMagnanimi started testing recipes and had his first success with \u003Cem\u003Epullum oxizomum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a chicken entree. It is made with leeks and \u003Cem\u003Ecolatura di alici di Cetara\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a condiment from the Amalfi Coast made from fermented anchovies that is the perfect substitute for garum. Some Japanese diners especially enjoyed it, and that led to him being featured on documentaries in Japan. \"My Roman groupies came after that; they were harder to convince to try something new,\" Magnanimi said. \"And then pollo oxizomum was praised in The New York Times, so it is still one of our most popular dishes.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese days, the Hostaria's menu features the Eternal City standards (such as pasta amatriciana and carbonara), along with the ancient Roman dishes that have brought Magnanimi international attention and made his once-sceptical father proud.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI first met Magnanimi in 2008 when I landed in the Hostaria and, on the recommendation of a foodie friend, ordered \u003Cem\u003Epatina cotidiana,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a tomato-less predecessor to lasagne. The original recipe used \u003Cem\u003Elagana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a flat bread, which was layered with meats, fish and cheeses. Magnanimi's was simpler, filled with ground pork, fennel and pecorino cheese.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Patina Cotidiana is a tomato-less predecessor to lasagne that was popular in ancient Rome","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo recreate this 2,000-year-old dish, Magnanimi started with a recipe from the 1st-Century AD Roman cookbook De Re Coquinaria, the only surviving recipe book from ancient Rome, which is attributed to Apicius, a wealthy gourmand once described by Pliny the Elder as \"the most gluttonous gorger of all spendthrifts\". Since the ancient recipes didn't use quantities or details for preparation, he then consulted noted Italian archaeologist Eugenia Salza Prina Ricotti to recreate the dishes by estimating their measurements with ingredients that were true to the era.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I couldn't put tomato in it,\" Magnanimi said, \"because tomatoes didn't come to Italy until the 1500s, when Cortes brought them back from the Americas.\" The \u003Cem\u003Epatina cotidiana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"daily dish\" in Latin, is now a restaurant signature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"My cheese, I make with the mortar and pestle, exactly like a recipe from Virgil","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy first taste kept me returning to try more flavours of ancient Rome, including sweets such as \u003Cem\u003Etiropatina\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a custard that's spiced with pepper, which Romans believed to be an aphrodisiac. Magnanimi told me his most recent creation is \u003Cem\u003Ela cassata di Oplontis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, inspired by a fresco found in a villa near Pompeii. The rich cake made with almond flour, ricotta, candied fruit and honey sells out every night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My cheese, I make with the mortar and pestle, exactly like a recipe from Virgil, from the 1st Century AD,\" Magnanimi said. This is \u003Cem\u003Emoretum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a cheese spread inspired by Virgil's poem about a farmworker preparing his humble lunch, grinding together coriander, celery seed, garlic and pecorino. It can be slathered on \u003Cem\u003Elibum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a round bread that was sacred to the Romans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Moretum is a cheese spread that was a favorite of ancient Romans","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI'd seen black carbonised libum in a Pompeii Museum, where a guide told me that its crumbs were placed on altars as an offering to household gods – a precursor to the Christian eucharist. Magnanimi shapes his libum in light, puffy rolls and stuffs them with ricotta sourced from the sheep farm up the road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMagnanimi missed engaging with guests during Italy's Covid-19 lockdown. With all the free time, he took lots of walks through the surrounding Appian Way, where leafy footpaths and bike lanes served as an outdoor refuge for Italians enduring some of Europe's strictest \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fextra\u002Fdj3jonuhi1\u002Fcoronavirus-year-of-the-mask\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elockdown measures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I spent a long morning with a shepherd, some days I'd see so many Romans coming here to jog because they couldn't go to the gym, and on weekends, there were families having picnics near the aqueducts, probably coming here for the first time. I could tell we all were feeling a bigger appreciation for where we live, for Rome.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Paolo is an important part of this place. He keeps it lively,\" said Simone Quilici, the director of the Appia Antica Archaeological Park. Quilici is continuing a mission that began in the early 19th Century when the idea of preserving this area began to take hold. That's when archaeologist and architect Luigi Canina decided to plant the now archetypal umbrella pines along the Appian Way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sheep grazing in Parco della Caffarella, part of Appia Antica Archeological park in Rome","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESadly, the park plans were never fulfilled and by the 20th Century, with uncontrolled traffic and the turbulence of the World War years, there was danger that this precious section of the Appian Way would be destroyed. The area became vandalised and riddled with criminal activity. Finally in 1988, largely thanks to decades of protests, the area was officially designated a park.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I remember coming here as a little girl,\" Eleonora Fanelli, a Roman archaeologist and tour guide told me. \"I couldn't believe this was in my city, a place out of a fairy tale where I could imagine a prince on horseback galloping on the path.\" Now, Fanelli loves to take visitors here. \"Even if it's raining, they want to get out and walk on the road, step on the stones that have chariot wheel marks on them, from 312BC!\" She loves to tell the story of the Roman censor, Appius Claudius Caecus, who nearly bankrupted the Roman treasury to have this road built. The legend goes that though he went blind, he still maintained quality control by walking barefoot on the road to ensure that the stones were smoothly laid. The Appian Way eventually extended 563km south to Brindisi on the Adriatic coast, and was the key to the creation of the Roman Empire. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMagnanimi has lived in the park for two decades and has high praise for Quilici's leadership. \"Since he began in 2017, he's made the park so much better for Romans and for tourists. New things have opened, like the 2nd-Century AD thermal baths of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.parcoarcheologicoappiaantica.it\u002Fluoghi\u002Fcomplesso-di-capo-di-bove\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECapo di Bove\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where there are beautiful mosaics and a garden.\" There is also a new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.parcoarcheologicoappiaantica.it\u002Fitinerappia\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItinerAppia App\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where visitors can scan a QR code and learn about each monument.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I feel so lucky to live here and to welcome travellers to experience Rome, \u003Cem\u003ELa Grande Bellezza\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, for real!,\" Magnanimi said. \"Here they can step back thousands of years on these stones and know how good it tasted.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-20T10:26:36Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"What did the ancient Romans eat?","headlineShort":"What did the ancient Romans eat?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People relaxing near the Aqua Claudia in Rome's Park of the Aqueducts","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"41.8683365","longitude":"12.5002313","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"People relaxing near the Aqua Claudia in Rome's Park of the Aqueducts","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A chef is unearthing recipes from one of the world's oldest cookbooks to reveal the origin of Italian food.","summaryShort":"A chef is unearthing long-lost recipes from one of the world's oldest cookbooks","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-19T22:31:09.47576Z","entity":"article","guid":"0b39d142-0fd5-4549-9c7f-d1de68d6fb87","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:31:15.189622Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881468},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish","_id":"621e445145ceed67ed4e7b03","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"With only three simple ingredients, cacio e pepe is a rich pasta dish that’s hard not to love. And when you do get that elusive texture, it becomes the ideal comfort food.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites. Click \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201218-best-of-bbc-travel-2020\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the full list).\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECacio e pepe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is a dish of only three ingredients, two of which are evident at first glance to anyone familiar with Roman dialect. \u003Cem\u003ECacio \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eis Romanesco for sheep’s milk cheese. Along with \u003Cem\u003Epepe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or black pepper, the cheese – ideally Pecorino – unites with pasta (and a hefty dose of starchy cooking water) to form a rich, creamy sauce that is as delicious as it is difficult to perfect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"[It's] as delicious as it is difficult to perfect.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to legend, the dish first appeared centuries ago among shepherds spending the spring and summer months in the grazing meadows of the Apennine Mountains, which traverse the Italian peninsula. While keeping watch over their flocks, shepherds would tap into personal stores of dried pasta and pepper; cheap, easy to transport and resistant to spoilage, these two ingredients were combined with the cheese (made from milk of the herders’ flocks) to make a delicious, simple dish that kept them warm on cold evenings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Black pepper directly stimulates the heat receptors and helped the shepherds to protect themselves from the cold,” explained Alessandra Argiolas, marketing manager for Sardinian Pecorino producers \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.argiolasformaggi.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArgiolas Formaggi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “And the pasta guaranteed a lot of energy.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut according to Angelo Carotenuto, a native Roman and owner and manager of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.livitaly.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELivItaly Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, cacio e pepe’s origin may be a bit less romantic. Carotenuto and local guide Dario Bartoli recently took to the internet with a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.livitaly.com\u002Ftour\u002Fcooking-demo-learn-2-traditional-italian-pasta-sauce-recipes-with-a-roman-livtalks-with-dario\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELivTalk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, “sort of like a TedTalk gone late-night show” as described by Carotenuto, to profile this and other local pasta dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to them, dishes like cacio e pepe, carbonara (a rich sauce made with a combination of beaten egg and dry-cured guanciale or pork cheek) and amatriciana (made with guanciale, tomato and Pecorino cheese) likely got their start, not in the mountains, but in the mines and factories that once surrounded the Lazio region encompassing Rome, near where low-income families once lived.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDried cheese, dried guanciale and dried pasta were filling, cheap and didn’t spoil easily: perfect for a simple, inexpensive meal. And while the first two ingredients would likely have been used locally for “literally centuries,” according to Carotenuto, the invention of these dishes, now perceived as Roman classics, probably dates to the 1800s, when pasta became popular in the Italian capital.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190728-italys-city-that-revolutionised-pasta\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly’s city that revolutionised pasta\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200415-how-to-make-pizza-like-a-neapolitan-master\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow to make pizza like a Neapolitan master\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190127-italys-practically-perfect-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly’s practically perfect food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You’re looking at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Ftopics\u002FItalian_unification\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eunification of Italy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, so the ability to transfer flavours and recipes easily,” he explained, noting that before unification, the poor would have been getting their carbohydrates from bread and polenta, rather than from pasta, which, Carotenuto explains, is said to have arrived in Italy through the Venetian ports.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever cacio e pepe was invented, one thing is for sure: it has captured many hearts around the world, including that of the late, great Anthony Bourdain. In one episode of No Reservations, Bourdain went so far as to say the dish “could be the greatest thing in the history of the world” – and refused to disclose his favourite cacio e pepe restaurant in Rome.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECacio e pepe has journeyed far from its humble roots. It has been topped with shaved truffle at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffucina.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELondon’s Fucina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; it has been an off-menu “secret” offering for VIPs at Washington DC’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rosesrestaurantgroupdc.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERose’s Luxury\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; and it has been prepared in a wheel of Pecorino and served in a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=qtrkK53WDXk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etableside spectacle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at New York City’s aptly named \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cacioepepe.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECacio e Pepe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant. Closer to home in Rome, the dish has gone upscale, appearing on the three-Michelin-starred menu at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fromecavalieri.com\u002Fit\u002Fla-pergola-it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Pergola\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut despite its international acclaim and elevated status, at its core, cacio e pepe remains a stalwartly simple dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELike many Italian classics, the secret to its success is the purity of its ingredients. To deviate from its three-part formula is to risk angering a local.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We’re pretty strict about how these things should taste,” said Carotenuto.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor starters, the pasta. Most make cacio e pepe with spaghetti, though the true traditional recipe calls for tonnarelli, a similar local noodle with a bit more chew thanks to the addition of egg.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“That’s what I would order if I was in a restaurant,” explained \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.elizabethminchilli.com\u002F)\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EElizabeth Minchilli\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, culinary tour guide and author of Eating Rome: Living the Good Life in the Eternal City. “If I was at home and couldn’t get that, I would probably go with spaghetti.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEither way, a long noodle is crucial to achieving the perfect texture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You really want to coat every strand with the cheese, and the fat from the cheese, and the starch from the water,” said Minchilli. “It just makes stirring really fast easier.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe next ingredient, pepe or black peppercorn, should be freshly crushed to release all of its aromas. Many chefs, including Filippo and Giovanni Rinaldi of London’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fmammafarina\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMammafarina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E pasta pop-ups, “bloom” the pepper in the pan by toasting it slightly, making it even more flavourful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd then, of course, there’s cacio, or as the Renaldis call it, “her majesty, Pecorino!”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Pecorino is very important because of the flavour and sapidity that this cheese brings to the dish,” they said, noting that either Pecorino Romano or Pecorino Sardo (from Sardinia) can be used.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the Rinaldis say that, “it should be forbidden to make cacio e pepe without Pecorino”, some do deviate a bit from this norm by adding another, more familiar cheese: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190127-italys-practically-perfect-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParmesan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrom a historical perspective, it’s an unusual choice, explained Argiolas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Cacio e pepe is a recipe of the Roman tradition,” she said, noting that already in 48BC, Virgil was describing the nutritional properties of the local sheep’s milk cheese. Parmesan, which hails not from Rome but from Emilia Romagna, is milder, nuttier and sweeter – the root of an Alfredo sauce, which Carotenuto calls “cacio e pepe for the American sweet tooth”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut despite tradition, Americans are not the only ones to sub subtler Parmesan for in-your-face Pecorino. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190618-massimo-bottura-the-worlds-best-chef\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMassimo Bottura\u003C\u002Fa\u003E popularised an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.upworthy.com\u002Fthis-world-renowned-chef-saved-his-towns-economy-with-cheese-and-rice\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eall-Parmesan version in 2012\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, after the Emilia Romagna region was hit by a devastating earthquake. And other cooks, like Minchilli, will cut an especially strong piece of Pecorino with a bit of Parmesan, to mellow it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“It’s not blasphemous to add some Parmesan cheese to the Pecorino,” said Carotenuto. “Pecorino is a very strong, salty cheese. The starchy water kind of slows that taste down, so in my opinion, you don’t need Parmesan cheese. But you certainly can, especially if you’re giving it to children.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If all you have is a good-quality Parmigiano,” echoed Minchilli, “the cacio e pepe police are not going to come and arrest you!”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"“It’s pretty typical of an Italian dish where, behind this simplicity, hides a fairly complex technicity”","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe ingredients for cacio e pepe may be simple, but the technique requires a bit of finesse to perfect, according to Simone Zanoni, chef of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flegeorge.com\u002Fen\u002Fhome\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe George Restaurant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Paris.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s pretty typical of an Italian dish where, behind this simplicity, hides a fairly complex technicity.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe technique, in this case, is to unite the starchy pasta cooking water with very finely grated cheese to create a rich sauce with no added cream.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If you tell someone who lives in Rome that you put cream in cacio e pepe…” Zanoni chuckled, “he’ll jump on your head!”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EInstead, one must patiently and slowly incorporate the starchy water reserved from cooking the pasta with the cheese and the pasta itself until a smooth emulsion forms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Everything has to be the right temperature when you add it together, otherwise you get this sort of plate of noodles with a clotted piece of cheese at the bottom,” said Minchilli. “And it’s just not what you’re dreaming of.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen you do get that elusive texture, cacio e pepe becomes the ideal comfort food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Cacio e pepe is a challenge, but also a dish that’s hard not to love,” said Meryl Feinstein, founder of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fpastasocialclub\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPasta Social Club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Austin, Texas. “It feels like an accomplishment – for me included – when that glossy, emulsified sauce emerges. Plus, it’s made with few ingredients, and many you likely already have in your kitchen, so it fits in well with the need for pantry-friendly recipes.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe flavour profile of cacio e pepe has spawned dozens of iterations, from gnocchi to risotto to lasagne. There are versions that make life easier, like Rachael Ray’s ricotta-based \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rachaelraymag.com\u002Frecipe\u002Frachael-rays-cacio-e-pepe-mac-n-cheese-with-chard\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecacio e pepe mac and cheese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. There are versions that make it even more over-the-top, like David Chang’s recipe with house-fermented \u003Cem\u003Ececi \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(chickpeas) in place of \u003Cem\u003Ecacio \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eat \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnishi.momofuku.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMomofuku Nishi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; or the “taco” of cacio e pepe pasta served in a crispy chicken cutlet at New York’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.noblekitchenandcocktails.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENoble Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Paris-based chef Taku Sekine of Paris’ \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dersouparis.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDersou\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchevaldorparis.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECheval d’Or\u003C\u002Fa\u003E recently posted a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FB-6esAnptgD\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecacio e pepe pizza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on his Instagram feed, noting that it’s easy to make at home, as “the ingredients are often there”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You can make it whenever the spirit moves you, just like cacio e pepe,” he said. “Of course… you need to make the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200415-how-to-make-pizza-like-a-neapolitan-master\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epizza dough\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Zanoni, however, merely combining Pecorino and pepper does not cacio e pepe make.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“We wouldn’t call cacio e pepe pizza ‘cacio e pepe…’ we’d call it ‘a pizza with cheese and pepper’,” he said. “There’s a vision of tradition that’s completely different, and abroad it has taken on a completely different vision than what we have in Italy.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne thing is for sure: cacio e pepe has captured the attention of home cooks around the world, especially given current confinement protocols.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s funny to see how pasta, which abroad has always been perceived as this easy-to-make dish, is changing,” said Zanoni, who often gets requests for a gourmet version of cacio e pepe from his one-\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181024-the-ingenious-story-behind-michelin-stars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMichelin-star\u003C\u002Fa\u003E kitchen in Paris. “People are starting to give it a gastronomic identity.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd whether you’re going crazy with new-fangled versions or sticking to the classic, it’s a comfort food dish that tastes great.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“With confinement, we’re coming back to old issues: that we couldn’t always access fresh products, and so we had things that we could keep around for a long time,” said Zanoni. “What better than a hunk of Pecorino, spaghetti and a bit of pepper?”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESimone Zanoni’s Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E200g high-quality, artisanal spaghetti (Zanoni uses Neapolitan spaghetti)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4-7g wild black peppercorns (adjust to taste, depending on the assertiveness of the pepper)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E160g Pecorino Romano, plus two pieces Pecorino rind\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3l water seasoned with 15g of kosher salt\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPrepare your \u003Cem\u003Emise en place\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the French world for having all your ingredients prepped and measured) in advance. Crush the peppercorns with a mortar and pestle. (If you do not have a mortar and pestle, use the bottom of a saucepan to crush them on a chopping board.) Grate the Pecorino with a Microplane (grater).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBring the water to a boil, season with the salt, and add the spaghetti. Stir gently at the beginning to keep the pasta from sticking to the bottom of the pot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, toast ¾ of the pepper in a pan over low heat until aromatic, about 1 minute. Be careful not to burn the pepper. Remove the pan from the heat, and gently add 2 to 3 ladlefuls of starchy pasta water to the pepper. Bring to a boil. Add the cheese crusts and simmer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the spaghetti is half-cooked (after about six minutes), transfer it to the pan with the peppercorns and starchy pasta water, reserving the remaining cooking water. Transfer another ladleful of water to the pan. After a few more minutes, remove the Pecorino rinds, and place them in a non-stick pan over medium heat to toast on both sides. When nicely toasted, remove and set aside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, continue cooking the spaghetti until two minutes before al dente (cooked “to the tooth” with a slight bite). Turn off the heat and allow the pasta to rest; there should be a bit of cooking water left in the pan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter about a minute off the heat, begin adding the grated cheese to the pasta from above, shaking the pan all the while to coat evenly. Add cooking water as needed to help the sauce bind; the sauce will thicken as the pasta sets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EServe the pasta in a warmed dish. Top with the remaining pepper and a little bit of freshly grated Pecorino. Finely slice the toasted Pecorino rinds and sprinkle on top.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots-at-home\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots at Home\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that looks to trending recipes and traces their origins, offering the story behind the dish as well as easy tips on how to make them.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-05-14T15:57:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Cacio e pepe: Italy's beloved three-ingredient pasta dish","headlineShort":"Italy's beloved 3-ingredient pasta dish","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With only three simple ingredients, cacio e pepe is a rich pasta dish that’s hard not to love. And when you do get that elusive texture, it becomes the ideal comfort food.","summaryShort":"When done right, cacio e pepe becomes the ideal comfort food","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:49:08.351334Z","entity":"article","guid":"74fec49e-7e90-4543-b8de-74e72474d7fc","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:09:06.453563Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881468},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking","_id":"62269b4045ceed24d1481885","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fronan-oconnell"],"bodyIntro":"Renaissance-era ice cream moulds, 500-year-old cookbooks, recipes meant only for popes: Rome's newest museum is a fascinating homage to Italy's history of food and cooking.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom the outside, the museum on Palatine Hill looked like just another of Rome's elegant \u003Cem\u003Epalazzi, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eits entrance graced with statues of Roman soldiers and decorative urns.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside, however, it was clear that this wasn't your run-of-the-mill Roman mansion. Hundreds of culinary tools were displayed in glass cabinets: bulky 19th-Century pasta machines, 220-year-old Italian bowls once used by Italian monks and well-worn steel pots designed for making \u003Cem\u003Eosso bucco\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the classic northern Italian veal recipe. What at first looked like medieval plates of armour were in fact metal tray moulds up to 500 years old. Some were for baking, others for making chocolate or ice cream.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsl0zd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOther displays held books. I stopped in front of one illustration to look at lumps of meat cooked over an open flame on a 16th-Century rotisserie; in the picture next to it, Italian men sat at a banquet table, eating. These sketches decorate the cover of one of the oldest cookbooks displayed in the museum, Il Trinciante, written in 1593 by Vincenzo Cervio. The author was a \u003Cem\u003Etrinciante\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or carver, for Italian Cardinal Alessandro Farnese. Cervio's 74-chapter opus reveals how to precisely cut fish, pies, fruits and vegetables and, above all, meat and fowl like pork, chicken, turkey, pheasant and peacock. Detailed drawings specify Cervio's preferred carving points to ensure juicy and flavourful cuts. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIl Trinciante is one of 120 cookbooks at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museodellacucina.com\u002F\"\u003EMuseo della Cucina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a museum opening in May 2022 that will be the city's first focusing on the history of food and cooking. Since the first mass-printed cookbook was published almost 550 years ago, many Italian recipes have been all but lost, hibernating in old texts hidden in repositories, said the museum's director, Matteo Ghirighini. The Museo della Cucina aims to rectify that. Its collection is based on that of Italian chef Rosso Boscolo and includes many of the oldest and rarest cookbooks in existence – including some originally meant only for popes. Boscolo's Tuscan cooking school \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.scuoladicucinaetoile.com\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003ECampus Etoile Academy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, meanwhile, will help the museum grow rare ingredients and perfect neglected recipes once reserved only for royalty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I got a sneak peek at the museum in November 2021, it was preparing for its launch. I came across it by accident. Rome is so awash with extraordinary sites that it's easy to overlook monumental churches and remains of 2,000-year-old palaces, let alone a yet-to-open cooking museum.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut already the Museo della Cucina had been included on Google Maps. And as I used my phone's GPS, I noticed its listing. What initially piqued my interest was its remarkable location. The museum is wedged between two of Rome's most important historic sites – the 2,600-year-old stadium Circus Maximus, and Palatine Hill, where Rome was founded and which is cloaked in the remains of ancient palaces and temples.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsl121"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs it turns out, the museum isn't just on the Palatine but on the specific location where Romulus and Remus, the legendary founders of Rome, were breastfed by the Roman wolf goddess Lupa more than 2,700 years ago. Myth has it that Romulus later established Rome on the same spot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet\"\u003EThe erotic design of Italian pastries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat did the ancient Romans eat?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly's beloved 3-ingredient pasta dish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is fitting the museum sits on such a historic location, said Ghirighini. \"Cooking as a way of reading contemporary history has often been underrated,\" he said. \"Cooking is a product of its time and it can tell us a lot about customs, ways of thinking, specific economic and political situations. So, a cookbook is often much more than it seems.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese sentiments were shared by Laila Tentoni, president of Italy's renowned \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.casartusi.it\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003ECasa Artusi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E centre for gastronomy in Forlimpopoli, northern Italy. She said Italy's food revealed an enormous amount about the country's passions. And cookbooks, in turn, had greatly shaped the history and direction of Italian cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsl17b"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECasa Artusi is dedicated to one of the country's most revered cookbook authors, Pellegrino Artusi. Tentoni said Artusi's 1891 book, Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well, aimed to demystify Italian cuisine that had previously been reserved for the country's elite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Artusi was like the first food blogger,\" Tentoni said. \"Artusi suggests to be simple, to use local, seasonal and quality products. Always you must choose the finest ingredients as your raw materials, for these will make you shine, Artusi wrote.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI admired a rare first edition of Artusi's influential text on the second floor of the Museo della Cucina. While Artusi's cookbook is not as vibrantly illustrated as some others, it makes up for that with his colourful writing style. \"Many people will read this recipe and cry out: 'Oh what a ridiculous pasta!',\" he wrote about his curious Lentin Spaghetti, in an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.co.th\u002Fbooks?id=CvNJXPb7wnIC&printsec=frontcover&dq=inauthor:%22Pellegrino+Artusi%22&hl=en&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=ridiculous&f=false\"\u003EEnglish language version of his publication\u003C\u002Fa\u003E I read online. Made from ground walnuts, breadcrumbs, confectioner's sugar and allspice – also known as Jamaican pepper or pimento – this sweet spaghetti was unfailingly popular with children, Artusi said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome of Artusi's recipes have since fallen out of favour – such as his recipe for eel pie. Not only is that long, slender fish difficult to prepare and cook – so much so that Japan has many specialist eel chefs – but Artusi's recipe pairs it with raisins, rosewater and almond milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"infographic","image":["p0bsl1b7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHaving long ago forgotten my high school Italian, I was unable to decipher the open pages of the library's books. But Ghirighini told me I could eventually read each one in English once the museum's comprehensive website is completed. \"Basically, you have access to a full virtual, illustrated, guided tour through five centuries of gastronomy,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom among that trove he singled out several texts I should examine. In addition to Artusi's classic, there was the first cookbook ever mass printed, On Honourable Pleasure and Health, by Italian author Bartolomeo Platina in 1474. That text, which focused on the preparation of single meals rather than decadent banquets, earned a huge following in Italy before its popularity saw it translated into French and German.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA similarly important cookbook, Ghirighini said, was The Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi from 1570. That was written by and named after the revered Scappi, the private chef of Pope Pius V. This cookbook, which brims with sketches of meals being prepared in grand kitchens, was extraordinary because, for the first time, it gave the Italian public access to recipes previously untasted outside of the Vatican.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsl1gt"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn particular, Scappi wrote of how Pope Pius IV was a fan of frog. Not just any frog, mind you, but those from the city of Bologna, which were especially plump and delicious. For the Pope, Scappi would remove the frogs' surprisingly large livers, coat them in egg, flour and milk and then fry them into crispy fritters. That was a snack. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe remainder of this amphibian was prepared as a heartier meal for His Holiness. Scappi would discard the head and the tips of the frog's feet, and fry what was left only in flour. Then he'd soak it in verjuice sauce made from unripened grapes, which was once a popular ingredient among Italian chefs but has largely been superseded by vinegar. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBecause French cuisine had significant influences on northern Italian gastronomy – due to sharing both a border and mutual admiration for each other's continent-leading culinary prowess – the museum also displays many of France's finest cookbooks, written by the likes of Marie-Antoine Careme, Francois Massialot and Urbane Francois Dubois.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The books in the museum contain the first printed recipes of all the most iconic dishes of the gastronomic culture of [Italy and France], from tomato sauce to supplì (rice croquettes) and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171221-what-you-dont-know-about-panettone\"\u003Epanettone\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, from macarons to meringues,\" Ghirighini said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the owner of a sweet tooth, my mouth watered as I admired evocative drawings of towering cakes in Careme's book Le Patissier Royal Parisien\u003Cem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EHe pioneered a grandiose approach to cooking that leaned on spectacle as much as technique. From pastry, sugar and marzipan, Careme created giant replicas of famous buildings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bsl1pb"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAside from books and artefacts, Ghirighini said the museum plans to bring historical dishes alive with tastings, such as the first-ever recipe for Italian tomato sauce, from the late 1600s. Taken from Antonio Latini's 1692 cookbook, this recipe has more in common with spicy salsa than the mild tomato sauce of the modern day thanks to its generous helping of fresh chillies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere will also be on-site banquets featuring ancient recipes from the museum's cookbooks, some of which have been dormant for generations, although Ghirighini did not yet want to reveal yet what they may be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A cookbook and food museum in Rome is absolutely something new,\" said Flaminia Belloni, a Rome tour guide for 20 years. \"It's a good chance to learn how the food and the cooking traditions were a real part of the lifestyle and state of mind for all Italians.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGhirighini hopes others will agree. After all, few feats could be more difficult than attempting to crystallise, within one building, more than 500 years of Italian cooking – and doing justice to one of the most globally renowned, and fascinating, aspects of Italian culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-eats"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-08T10:51:42Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Rome's new museum dedicated to cooking","headlineShort":"How Rome changed how we eat","image":["p0bsl1yb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"41.9028","longitude":"12.4964","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bsl4m5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210113-the-erotic-origins-of-italys-most-famous-sweet","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210719-what-did-the-ancient-romans-eat","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200512-cacio-e-pepe-italys-beloved-3-ingredient-pasta-dish"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Renaissance-era ice cream moulds, 500-year-old cookbooks, recipes meant only for popes: Rome's newest museum is a fascinating homage to Italy's history of food and cooking.","summaryShort":"It's newest museum is a fascinating homage to Italy's culinary history","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-07T23:54:22.277553Z","entity":"article","guid":"2f297547-61cb-407c-9f0b-5528f8bb8cdc","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-09T12:43:56.642771Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220307-romes-new-museum-dedicated-to-cooking","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fitaly","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Frome"],"destinationStat":"europe_europe_italy_europe_italy_rome","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881467},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate","_id":"621e445045ceed69cc646eb8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In Washington DC, \"great food\" has become an important part of local identity at a time in which the city is rapidly changing. And quintessential mambo sauce is leading the way.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen one mentions Washington DC, to outsiders, a few predictable images come to mind: the White House; monuments and museums; endless bureaucracy; and the never-ending soap opera that is US politics.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat doesn't often come up, however, is food. Philadelphia has its cheesesteaks. New York has its bagels, pizza and pastrami. Even nearby Maryland has its famous crab cakes. In the eyes of most, the US capital has never had a nationally or internationally recognisable culinary treasure to call its own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I have no idea how I started eating it. It's just a part of the culture","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut for many true Washingtonians – not transplants in town for the politics – there is one notable exception: mambo sauce, a unique red-orange sweet and tangy condiment often used on everything from fried chicken and wings to shrimp and fried rice. While the origins of the word \"mambo\" have been lost to time, core ingredients usually include ketchup, soy sauce, vinegar, hot sauce, tomato sauce and sugar, with some versions also including pineapple juice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELocal foodies are incredibly protective of the sauce and its role in local culture. In 2018, for example, Mayor Muriel Bowser drew the ire of many constituents by saying she was \"annoyed\" at the sauce's association with DC, a statement even the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtonpost.com\u002Flocal\u002Fmay-the-mambo-sauce-always-flow-said-dcs-mayor-before-she-dissed-it\u002F2018\u002F11\u002F24\u002F8118dbbe-ef5b-11e8-8679-934a2b33be52_story.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWashington Post characterised as \"not a minor misstep\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. On her personal Facebook page, Bowser, who took office in 2015, questioned why and how the condiment had become a \"quintessential\" DC food. Faced with an onslaught of criticism – some light-hearted, some not – the mayor's spokesperson said Bowser \"wanted to provide DC residents something to discuss on Thanksgiving\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I have no idea how I started eating it. It's just a part of the culture,\" explained Angela Byrd, a DC native who founded \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.madeinthedmv.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMadeInTheDMV\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a think-tank aimed at promoting local brands and culture. \"Everybody eats it. It's weird when people don't.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe origins of mambo sauce are a matter of some dispute. Die-hard mambo aficionados insist the sauce was born at a Wings N' Things, a black-owned and now defunct Washington wings restaurant even if a judge in 2013 ruled that \"mumbo\" – an alternative spelling – is legally trademarked in Chicago, where some claim the sauce was first created by an African American restauranteur named Argia B Collins in the 1950s at a BBQ venue he operated. Proponents of this theory – which is deeply unpopular among DC mambo sauce enthusiasts – believe the sauce was brought to the district by people travelling between what were two of the main hubs of black culture and business in the United States.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver time, however, the sauce became a staple and a source of local pride in DC, where it has traditionally been associated with the city's many affordable takeaway venues, particularly in historically African American parts of town such as Shaw or Anacostia. The growth of the sauce's popularity in DC can partly be attributed to its connection to Go-Go music, DC's homegrown variety of funk, as well as its availability near popular music venues and nightclubs over the last several decades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAdditionally, as the city's demographics slowly changed over the years, the sauce was increasingly picked up and offered at higher-end venues such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thehamiltondc.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Hamilton\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant near the White House, exposing new segments of the population – that were unlikely to be found eating at local takeaways (known locally as \"carry-outs\") – to mambo. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMambo sauce's popularity, Byrd added, is largely a result of how useful it is. Even if the texture, colour and taste can vary from place-to-place – as it often does – it can be eaten at any time, with almost anything. \"The redder, the better,\" she said with a chuckle. \"It's almost like wine. It has different tastes. Even if the chicken is bad, it makes it taste good. You can use it on chicken and French fries, but some people go above and beyond with other great dishes. I'm going to carry mambo sauce with me, and that's just the way it goes.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese days, mambo sauce has gone mainstream. What was once quietly made in takeaway kitchens is now available on shelves in grocery and department stores, and even at more formal restaurants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAmong the local voices leading mambo sauce's charge to greater popularity is Arsha Jones, the CEO and co-founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.shopcapitalcity.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECapital City Mambo Sauce\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA DC native, Jones began the business with her late husband after leaving the city for nearby suburbs and seeing a niche to market mambo to Washingtonians who'd left. These days, her sauce is available throughout the city and online to former city residents and out-of-town enthusiasts alike.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt has not always been an easy ride. For one, it was Jones and her company that were embroiled in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtonpost.com\u002Fgoingoutguide\u002Fmumbo-sauce-may-be-the-taste-of-dc-but-in-the-eyes-of-the-law-its-home-is-chicago\u002F2013\u002F09\u002F03\u002Fc2ae07bc-14bd-11e3-a100-66fa8fd9a50c_story.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E'mumbo vs mambo' legal battle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with rivals in Chicago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAdditionally, Jones says she sometimes still faces opposition from a small minority of mambo \"purists\" who don't believe the sauce should be mass-produced or shared with out-of-towners. \"People said that a more authentic version would be to go to a carry-out. But our recipe is based on what was sold at those carry-outs,\" she said of the debate. \"The goal is to commercialise a well-known product, not to change it or take away from its history, origination or the culture.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We actually want to highlight those things and make sure people understand where it started,\" Jones added. \"We want to show everyone what it \u003Cem\u003Eis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E to be from Washington DC, and what we like.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVisitors wanting to get a taste of that experience are not short on options, many of them in or around DC's bustling 14th Street or U Street corridor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe area, now home to a dizzying array of bars and restaurants – including many Ethiopian and West African stand-outs – holds a special place in the city's rich African American history. Anchored by the famed Howard University, in the first half of the 20th Century the area was known as \"Black Broadway\", a hub of music and culture at a particular time of racial and political tensions throughout the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Between 1900 and 1920, it was \u003Cem\u003Ethe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E place to be. In the 1930s and '40s, it was also unique in that it could be integrated. You'd also have white people who wanted to come enjoy black music,\" said Lynn O’Connell, a tour guide with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dcmetrofoodtours.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDC Metro Food Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"After Howard University opened, you started seeing the intellectuals come in – the poets, the writers and, of course, the musicians. The area was home to a lot of blossoming black musicians.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200701-pig-ear-sandwich-an-iconic-dish-of-the-american-south\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn iconic dish of the American South\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201213-a-new-way-to-travel-across-the-us\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA new way to travel across the US\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170112-a-white-house-built-by-blacks\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA White House built by blacks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EU Street is also home to what is without a doubt DC's most famous restaurant: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbenschilibowl.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBen's Chili Bowl\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which was founded by Trinidadian-born immigrant Ben Ali and his wife Virginia in 1958. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I came in 1952, when DC was still a segregated city. When we met in 1957, we fell in love and wanted to be married. His dream was to open up a little restaurant,\" the now 87-year-old Virginia Ali recalled. \"He knew something of the restaurant business, and he had this little secret chili recipe.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"That's how we came up with the idea,\" she added. \"We just had to find that ideal location.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESixty-three years later, Ben's is also widely considered the spiritual home of perhaps the only other food that DC residents claim as their own: the half-smoke, a hot dog-esque grilled sausage – sometimes half beef, half pork – served on a warm steamed bun with mustard, onions and more often than not, with Ben's signature homemade chilli sauce (although mambo sauce is readily available on request).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Half-smokes are widely considered as important as mambo sauce","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen it comes to DC's indigenous culinary options, half-smokes are widely considered as important as mambo sauce, with the two being synonymous with DC's culinary history and culture – particularly as it pertains to the city's African American community – although many enthusiasts of either will tell you the two complement each other.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver its more than six decades, the venue has become an almost obligatory stop for celebrities and prominent visitors of all stripes visiting the city. Many are featured on the building's exterior murals or inside picture frames, from Anthony Bourdain and U2's Bono to Barack Obama.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the 1960s, famed American civil rights leader Martin Luther King Jr – whose \"Poor People's Campaign\" had a nearby office – was a regular visitor. When he was assassinated in 1968, Ben's famously continued to operate as a \"safe space\" even as devastating unrest left much of the area in ruins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We always wanted to be a community-based place, a home away from home for people and a gathering place. We do our best to treat all our guests as a family member walking through the door, whether it be the president or the guy on the corner. We're all just people,\" Ali said. \"But more importantly, I think we've got great food.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDC residents are quick to note that \"great food\" is increasingly becoming an important part of local identity at a time in which the city is rapidly changing. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor one, the demographics are shifting – DC's sizeable black majority is now down to 45%. Secondly, calls for statehood are mounting, with an overwhelming majority of residents in favour of an upgrade from its current status as a federal district.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn this environment, many residents say that DC having its \"own\" food and local restaurants to identify with becomes increasingly important. Whether that food be mambo sauce or a half-smoke or both, however, is up for some debate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"What we find is that local people, black and white, but particularly black, are really rallying around their local institutions,\" explained Dr Bernard Demczuk, a professor and official resident historian at Ben's Chili Bowl, complete with an \"open table\" permanently reserved at the restaurant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"New York has the pizza. New Orleans has gumbo,\" he added. \"Hopefully our state cuisine will be the half-smoke. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDr Demczuk's comments beg a question that is sure to start a heated debate among DC food and culture connoisseurs: what is more DC, mambo sauce or a half-smoke?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Oh, that's a tough one. A good question. A really good question,\" Angela Byrd said with a chuckle. \"I think mambo sauce. You could always put mambo sauce on a half-smoke. For me, mambo sauce just gets more play.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fquintessential-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EQuintessential City\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that examines some of the world’s greatest cultural experiences, and then offers our take on the single-most memorable and true-to-the-local-spirit one you can have.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-04-20T23:23:46Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Washington DC sauce drenched in debate","headlineShort":"A sauce that can make anything good","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Washington DC, \"great food\" has become an important part of local identity at a time in which the city is rapidly changing. And quintessential mambo sauce is leading the way.","summaryShort":"It's used on everything from fried chicken and wings to shrimp and fried rice","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:04:52.36133Z","entity":"article","guid":"66f0a839-4ce7-42dc-85e8-b978d01dfaac","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:26:04.260847Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881469},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef","_id":"621e445245ceed6b855c2247","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In the late 18th Century, Philadelphia was a city of high-end cuisine; however, few know that many of its culinary masters were of African descent like Hercules Posey.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEach year, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, sees millions of heritage-seeking tourists who traipse the reconstructed brick pathways of the old city, eager to see the sites that birthed ideas of American liberty such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Finde\u002Fplanyourvisit\u002Findependencehall.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndependence Hall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776, and the iconic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Finde\u002Flearn\u002Fhistoryculture\u002Fstories-libertybell.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELiberty Bell\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But like its ties to democracy, Philadelphia's connection to great American food culture has roots that reach into the distant past, roots that until recently have been obscured in the history books.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch of the fledgeling nation's culinary excellence was achieved in the homes of its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FFounding-Fathers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFounding Fathers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E like George Washington and Thomas Jefferson, where high-end cuisine was perfected not by white cooks but by enslaved chefs of African descent. These highly skilled chefs were influenced by the city's bountiful European, Caribbean and Native American exchange of culinary ideas and techniques, as well as their own heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A mix of West African, European, Native American foodways collided in the colonies, by force","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Dr Kelley Fanto Deetz, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.indiebound.org\u002Fsearch\u002Fbook?keys=bound+to+the+fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBound to the Fire: How Virginia's Enslaved Cooks Helped Invent American Cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a mix of West African, European, Native American foodways collided in the colonies, by force,\" she said, \"and this collision found a world stage in places like Washington's dining room table in Philadelphia.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPreparing the food that made its way to Washington's tables was the unsung haute culinarian Hercules Posey. Posey was unique among his peers in that he was famous in his own time and was acknowledged by white society. He had a larger than life persona, and, as head chef, a position of power in the household, as well as some quasi-freedoms like the ability to leave the house on his own when he was not working and to earn money selling leftovers from the kitchen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hercules Posey would have been familiar with Philadelphia's City Tavern in his time","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI spent a dozen years researching on Posey for my novel The General's Cook, piecing together the details of his remarkable life through painstaking research of Washington's household accounts, letters to and from his Philadelphia steward and personal secretary, census documents and other ephemera. Unlike the lives of their white contemporaries, the life events of enslaved people are not well recorded in the public record, appearing only as property footnotes in the files of their enslavers, making reconstruction of their lives incredibly difficult.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp0bl2dy3.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe vestiges of Hercules Posey's life in Philadelphia remain tantalisingly within reach for visitors who know where to look.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESteps away from the Liberty Bell, tourists can visit the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Finde\u002Flearn\u002Fhistoryculture\u002Fplaces-presidentshousesite.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPresident's House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where Posey lived and worked. The open-air site is interpreted through the lives of those George Washington enslaved there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECross the street to visit the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Finde\u002Flearn\u002Fhistoryculture\u002Fplaces-declarationhouse.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDeclaration (Graff) House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E where Posey's contemporary Chef James Hemmings lived with his enslaver Thomas Jefferson during his time in Philadelphia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Germantown section of the city, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Finde\u002Flearn\u002Fhistoryculture\u002Fplaces-germantownwhitehouse.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Deshler-Morris house\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, also known as the Germantown White House, was where George Washington spent the summer of 1794 to avoid the yellow fever epidemic raging in the city. Posey cooked in this kitchen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Finde\u002Fplanyourvisit\u002Fcitytavern.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECity Tavern\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Man Full of Trouble tavern (now a private home) on Spruce Street are places with which Posey would have been familiar in his time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Freadingterminalmarket.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReading Terminal Market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offers the energy and flavour of the open-air markets of Posey's day, featuring goods from around the region and world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Hercules Posey's Philadelphia","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EBecause Posey was notable in his own time, there are more records of his life than of others like him – although this information is still incredibly sparse. However, Washington's step grandson, George Washington Parke Custis, chose to immortalise the chef in an biographical sketch in his book Reflections and Private Memoirs of Washington. Much what we know about Posey's towering persona is gleaned in Custis' single description. Recalling his childhood in the presidential mansion, he wrote about Posey as \"a culinary artiste\" and \"dandy\", with \"great muscular power\" and a \"master spirit\", whose \"underlings flew to his command\" (among those underlings were paid white servants).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPosey was possibly a teenager when he came to Mount Vernon, Washington's estate in Virginia, about 150 miles south-west of Philadelphia. He apprenticed there under the enslaved cooks Doll and Nathan, who managed the kitchen for many decades, and he mastered his craft so well that Washington brought him to cook at the \u003Ca href=\"file:\u002F\u002F\u002FUsers\u002Fbanasaw1\u002FDesktop\u002FPresident's%20House\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPresident's House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Philadelphia in 1790. It was here in Philadelphia that Posey was exposed to and inspired by ingredients and cooking techniques from throughout the nation – and the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the time the chef resided in Philadelphia, the city was positioned ideally in the middle of the nation, and thanks to the wide, navigable Susquehanna, Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, regionally produced vegetables, fruits, meats and dairy products like milk and butter arrived regularly at its open-air High Street Market. The rest of nation supplied what wasn't available locally. From the north came salted New England codfish and prized Connecticut onions along with upstate New York cheese. From the south there was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210307-how-rice-shaped-the-american-south\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECarolina rice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and indigo, as well as tobacco from Virginia and Maryland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210307-how-rice-shaped-the-american-south\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow rice shaped the American South\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210830-the-chef-preserving-gullah-culture-through-storytelling\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe chef preserving Gullah culture\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Washington DC sauce drenched in debate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFurthermore, by the 1760s, Philadelphia's merchants had come to realise there was an untapped secondary market in the Caribbean (outside of the sugar, molasses and rum that went to ports like New York and Boston), and the city came to lead the nation in imports of ginger, allspice and black pepper, while controlling half of all coffee imports. Nutmeg, limes, pineapples, coconuts also made their way to Philadelphia as part of this robust West India Trade, and all were on offer in the city's ports for export, as well as its public markets and many taverns.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd, where the High Street Market sheds met the Delaware River, the harbour was jammed with trading ships loaded with olive oils from Spain; wines and oranges from Portugal, France and Germany; and tea from China – all part of the vast commercial network that made Philadelphia the busiest port on the American continent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hercules Posey cooked in the kitchen for George Washington's home at Mount Vernon","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Philadelphia was the gateway to the Atlantic, a city that was central to the foundation of our nation and our understanding of what American food is,\" said Deetz, who is also the director of Collections and Visitor Engagement of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fstratfordhall.org\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStratford Hall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the Virginia birthplace of confederate Civil War general \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fw3cszmw7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERobert E Lee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile none of Posey's recipes survived, period accounts detail meals with each course featuring a dizzying variety among dishes like roasted beef, veal, turkeys, ducks, fowls and ham as well as puddings, jellies, oranges, apples, nuts, figs and raisins. Depending on the season, there were oyster stews, other soups and pottages, as well as fruit pies, ice cream and seasonal fish. All were accompanied by various wines and were elegantly presented.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnderstanding Posey lies in understanding his milieu. He moved to Philadelphia, a city that was a crossroads of culture, language, commerce and cuisine – much the way we think of New York City, London or Hong Kong today. Third and fourth generation European Americans with English or French ancestry – like George Washington – joined their Dutch- and Swedish-descent counterparts on the brick pavements of Philadelphia developed by William Penn on unceded indigenous Lenape land. In 1791, following the successful revolt of the enslaved on the Caribbean Island of St Domingue (now Haiti), French-speaking white refugees flooded the city, dragging their Creole-speaking enslaved in tow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"1770s Colonial-era American dish of baked stuffed striped bass garnished with lemon potato parsley","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese varied throngs gathered at Philadelphia's theatres, circuses and taverns, which according to Washington's household accounts, were also frequented by Posey. After his work was done, the presidential chef went out in the evening dressed to the nines with a gold pocket watch and gold headed cane, likely purchased with money he earned selling the usable scraps from Washington's kitchen that had value on the secondary market for uses like animal feed or fertiliser.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The presidential chef went out in the evening dressed to the nines with a gold pocket watch and gold headed cane","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut while Posey experienced some autonomy, he wasn't free like his brethren in Philadelphia's Free Black community, which comprised nearly all of the 5% of the city's residents of African descent. Most had gained liberty thanks to Pennsylvania's 1780 Gradual Abolition Law that emancipated enslaved persons remaining in the Commonwealth for more than six months. However, Washington took great pains to subvert the Pennsylvania law and keep Posey and nine other enslaved Africans with him in Philadelphia in a condition of bondage. He did this by rotating Posey and the others out of the city into pro-slavery states like New Jersey across the Delaware River or back to Virginia, thereby continually resetting their time in the city. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENonetheless, constant interactions with successful free food service workers, oystermen and farmers would have likely influenced Hercules' view of the world. He would have seen the path to another life – one in which his skill could sustain him if he were able to escape Washington's grasp.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Mount Vernon research historian Mary Thompson, the quasi liberty in which Posey lived – and his status in the kitchen – often confuses people into believing that he had an easier life than those who worked in the field.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A small dining room is set at George Washington's Mount Vernon Estate in Virginia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"For some people, his 'status' might have made his story harder to understand. They think: why would he have wanted to leave, when he was working for one of the most important men of that time period and had the opportunity to be at, arguably, the summit of his profession as a cook?\" said Thompson, who was among the few early scholars studying George Washington's enslaved people. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis confusion frustrates not only historians like Thompson but living history interpreters like Dontavius Williams who portrays Caesar, the highly skilled chef and master chocolatier enslaved at Stratford Hall in Virginia. In his interpretive work, Williams strives to make it clear that whatever limited autonomy or \"pride of place\" cooks like Posey were allowed, it did not make up for the fact that their labour and liberty were stolen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The work for all who were enslaved was gruelling in its own way. However, the work of the cook was extremely taxing mentally and emotionally. Working in extreme conditions under the scrutinising eye of his master and mistress, the enslaved cook had to perform at a high level at all times. There was no room for mistakes,\" said Williams. \"Enslaved cooks had to hold it together and manage a staff while meeting the high standards of the family who owned them, and they worked even during those few times that other enslaved labourers didn't. It was literally a 24\u002F7 job.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Chef Hercules is America's first celebrity chef, full stop","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe importance of Philadelphia and its rich opportunities for free African Americans – and for cooks in particular – was becoming clear to Washington by the end of his time there. And so, after spending the summer of 1796 at Mt Vernon, he returned to Philadelphia leaving Posey behind believing he was planning to escape, thus cutting off his access to the city and its strong abolitionist network. But as George Washington Park Custis wrote, Posey was an extraordinary man, and on 22 February 1797, he walked away from Mount Vernon only to be seen once more, four years later in New York City.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe details of what happened after Posey's self-emancipation remained murky for 218 years until I and a research colleague of mine, Sara Krasne, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnews.hamlethub.com\u002Ffairfield\u002Fplaces\u002F48281-whs-staffers-solve-218-yr-old-case-related-to-george-washington\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efound his gravesite\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and we later discovered that he used the surname \"Posey\" (surnames were not common among enslaved people). He worked as a cook and caterer until his death on 15 May 1812. The discovery was the apex of all my years of research.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Colonial-style turkey pot pie at City Tavern restaurant in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough Posey spent nearly three times as long in New York as he did in Philadelphia, it is Philly where he made a name for himself. And his story is a testament to the standard for presidential dining, even now, but also to black contributions to American culinary history. As American chefs over the centuries sought to mimic what Posey created for the president's table, a style of haute American cuisine was born, one that highlighted local ingredients prepared in an elegant, though not lavish, style that was judiciously seasoned with the best additions the world market could offer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Chef Hercules is America's first celebrity chef, full stop,\" said Deetz. \"His story of climbing the ranks in Washington's kitchen, to his flamboyant fashion style, rigid management style and his eventual escape from bondage, elevate his story to nothing short than legendary. He is an American hero.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ERamin Ganeshram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is the author of \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.indiebound.org\u002Fbook\u002F9781950691975\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe General's Cook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E a novel about the life of Hercules Posey. She is the Executive Director of the \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwestporthistory.org\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWestport Museum for History and Culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E where, along with her colleague Sara Krasne, she was able to solve the 218 year old mystery of Chef Hercules Posey's life after self-emancipation from George Washington's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMount Vernon\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-01T10:56:33Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Hercules Posey: George Washington's unsung enslaved chef","headlineShort":"George Washington's unsung black chef","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"This unknown portrait has kept Hercules Posey's legend alive for centuries","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.950442","longitude":"-75.1522786","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"This unknown portrait has kept Hercules Posey's legend alive for centuries","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In the late 18th Century, Philadelphia was a city of high-end cuisine; however, few know that many of its culinary masters were of African descent like Hercules Posey.","summaryShort":"\"His story is nothing short than legendary – he is an American hero\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-01T00:00:42.424214Z","entity":"article","guid":"399e2662-4753-4c6e-a256-d2a74e2f08cd","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:17.759618Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881469},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade","_id":"621d1a3d45ceed745e1269ff","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The discovery of the remains of the Clotilda, 160 years after it sank, brings new life and interest to the settlement built by the original survivors.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's crazy to think they would have sailed right past here,\" Darron Patterson said, pulling his car onto a scrap of grass overlooking the murky Mobile River. As president of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheclotildastory.com\u002F\"\u003EClotilda Descendants Association\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Patterson is well versed in talking about the voyage of the Clotilda – the last known slave ship to reach America. His great-great-grandfather was Kupollee, later renamed Pollee Allen; one of the 110 men, women and children cruelly stolen from Benin in West Africa and brought to the US onboard the notorious ship.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"To conceal evidence of the crime, the distinctive-looking schooner was set ablaze","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe story of how Patterson's relative arrived in America aboard an illegal slaver started as a shockingly flippant bet. Fifty-two years after the US banned the importation of enslaved people, in 1860, a wealthy Alabama business owner named Timothy Meaher wagered that he could orchestrate for a haul of kidnapped Africans to sail under the noses of federal officers and evade capture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the assistance of Captain William Foster at the helm of an 80ft, two-mast schooner, and following a gruelling six-week transatlantic passage, he succeeded. The ship sneaked into Mobile Bay on 9 July under a veil of darkness. To conceal evidence of the crime, the distinctive-looking schooner – made from white oak frames and southern yellow pine planking – was set ablaze and scuttled to the depths of the swampy Mobile River, where it lay concealed beneath the water, its existence relegated to lore. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat is until almost 160 years later, when during a freakishly low tide, a local reporter named Ben Raines discovered a hefty chunk of shipwreck in the Mobile River, initially thought to belong to the Clotilda. It turned out to be a false alarm, but the discovery reignited interest and led to an extensive search involving multiple parties, including the Alabama Historical Commission, National Geographic Society, Search Inc and the Slave Wrecks Project. Following their exhaustive effort, in May 2019 it was finally announced that the elusive Clotilda had at long last been discovered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A mural of the Clotilda slave ship on Africatown Boulevard in Africatown","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181022-cape-towns-slave-ship-secret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ENow, three years later, the city of Mobile finds itself standing on the brink of a tourism boom, as interest in the story of the Clotilda, and the lives of its resilient captives, builds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPatterson had agreed to drive me around Africatown, an area where many of the ship's captives finally settled and where Patterson himself was raised. We began the tour at this scrap of land by the Mobile River, beneath a soaring interstate bridge where a group of Clotilda slave ship descendants meet annually for their Under the Bridge festival, to \"talk about how our ancestors got here and to have some food and dance,\" Patterson said. There was no festival that day though and the atmosphere was muted; just one woman and her grandson played by the marshy water's edge below the steady hum of traffic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201117-santo-domingo-the-city-that-kept-slavery-silent\"\u003EThe city that kept slavery silent\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181022-cape-towns-slave-ship-secret\"\u003ECape Town's secret slave ship\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-st-louis-the-us-city-transformed-by-heartbreak\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe US city transformed by heartbreak\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWalking back to his car, Patterson, a former sportswriter now in his 60s, recalled that growing up, Africatown was a thriving, self-sufficient place, where \"the only time we needed to leave the community was to pay a utility bill\" as everything needed was close to hand, aside from a post office.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocated three miles north of downtown Mobile, Africatown was founded by 32 of the original Clotilda survivors following emancipation at the end of the Civil War, in 1865. Longing for the homeland they'd been brutally ripped from, the residents set up their own close-knit community to blend their African traditions with American folkways, raising cattle and farming the land. One of the first towns established and controlled by African Americans in the US, Africatown had its own churches, barbershops, stores (one of which was owned by Patterson's uncle); and the Mobile County Training School, a public school that became the backbone of the community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, this once-vibrant neighbourhood fell on hard times when a freeway was constructed in the heart of it in 1991, and industrial pollution meant that many of the remaining residents eventually packed up and left. \"We couldn't even hang out our washing to dry because it would get covered in ash [a product of the oil storage tanks and factories on the outskirts of Africatown],\" said Patterson. With the high-profile closure of the corrugated box factory, International Paper, in 2000, and an ensuing public health lawsuit brought about by residents, Africatown's community that had swelled to 12,000 people in the 1960s plummeted to around 2,000, where it stands today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A marker commemorating Cudjoe Kazoola Lewis, one of the Clotilda survivors","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe exodus, poverty and environmental scars were visible as Patterson drove further into Africatown. The roadside was littered with abandoned factories. The quiet, residential streets were peppered with empty lots and vacant homes, some in such disrepair that their decaying walls had surrendered entirely to the creeping vines engulfing them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Africatown is changing, once again. With the discovery of the ship's remnants came the interest necessary to rebuild and preserve this historical place; an influx of attention and funds that is affecting everything from personal relationships to history to the fortune of the neighbourhood. Because, though the story of the Clotilda was known – and the lives of the original passengers were so well documented that photos, interviews and even film footage existed – without evidence of the vessel, the history was buried and it was not in the interest of the white population to acknowledge the truth of how they had arrived. Finding the vessel allowed their story to be affirmed and truth to be restored after decades of denial.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the almost three years since the Clotilda was discovered, the wreck has undergone extensive archaeological exploration to determine the likelihood of raising it safely. The ripple effect of media and public interest has meant a slew of government, community and private funding for Africatown's revitalisation, including The Africatown Redevelopment Corporation, which is using grants to restore homes in disrepair and demolishing and rebuilding derelict lots. Added to this is a $3.6 million payout from a BP oil spill settlement that has been earmarked for the long-awaited rebuilding of the Africatown Welcome Center, which was swept away in 2005 by Hurricane Katrina.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPatterson drove me to his grandmother's house and pulled over to chat with an elderly neighbour on her porch (\"no photos, mind\", she requested politely). Unlike some of the other descendent families, he told me, growing up he was told little of his ancestry. \"I think my folks may have been embarrassed,\" he reflected, recalling that the smuggled captives had faced many humiliations, including being stripped naked for the voyage. \"That must have just broke their will,\" Patterson said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Africatown street overlooking the Mobile Country Training School","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe 2019 announcement of the ship's discovery galvanised Patterson's curiosity, and he started to piece together his heritage, at which point his \"whole life changed\". He's since become hands-on in ensuring the story is told accurately, including an onscreen role in the film \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt16376494\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDescendant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E premiering at the 2022 Sundance Film Festival and as co-producer of the second installment of the forthcoming documentary \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.southalabama.edu\u002Fdepartments\u002Fpublicrelations\u002Fpressreleases\u002F060418africatown.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 110: The Last Enslaved Africans Brought to America\u003C\u002Fa\u003E about the Clotilda's passengers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Patterson, the discovery of the infamous ship brings fresh hope that Africatown is on the eve of a renaissance. Following years of denial, \"the ship's very existence has finally been affirmed, so a burden has been lifted,\" said Mobile County Commissioner Merceria Ludgood. \"That's every bit as important to the ethos of Africatown as the housing revitalisation currently happening.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough there's a lack of restaurants and tourism facilities, that could be all set to change as well, said Ludgood, who is helping to set up the Africatown Heritage House, a permanent museum created in collaboration with the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.historymuseumofmobile.com\u002F\"\u003EHistory Museum of Mobile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to chart the history of Africatown. \"Hopefully cottage industries will spring up, owned by people who live in the community,\" she said, noting that the discovery of the Clotilda has given Africatown's community a boost, resonating far beyond economics.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENext on Patterson's tour was the Africatown Heritage House, situated in the hub of the neighbourhood, overlooked by a row of modest, well-kept bungalows on a palm-lined avenue. Currently under construction, the museum is due to open in early summer 2022 and will include a gallery of West African artefacts as well as salvaged sections of the Clotilda shipwreck, presented in preservation tanks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is actually the best documented Middle Passage story we have as a nation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt promises a unique insight, given the relatively recent timing of the Clotilda voyage in relation to the history of slavery. \"This is actually the best documented Middle Passage story we have as a nation,\" explained Meg McCrummen Fowler, director of the History Museum of Mobile. \"There's just an abundance of sources, mostly because it occurred so late. Several of the people on the ship lived well into the 20th Century, so instead of silence there's diaries, there's ship records.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Building site of Africatown Heritage House in Mobile, Alabama","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFurther regeneration projects on the horizon include a footbridge connecting the two areas of Africatown currently divided by the freeway. Water tours taking visitors close to the shipwreck site are scheduled to launch in spring 2022, and a few local residents ahead of the curve are offering walking tours of Africatown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile tourists have yet to arrive in serious numbers, Africatown faces a familiar set of challenges to other US neighbourhoods experiencing rapid revitalisation, including ensuring the whole community supports change and that residents don't fall through the cracks. But Patterson said that the Africatown community is united in its mission.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're all on board with this,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe final stop on our tour was the cemetery where many of the Clotilda's enslaved have been laid to rest. As we walked, Patterson told me that with the light currently shinning on this troubling chapter of history, he has hopes that there will be enough sustained interest to generate the funds needed to raise the schooner from the water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough the true impact of this fabled ship's discovery is yet to be seen, for Patterson, it presents an opportunity to lift up the Africatown community and honour the struggles of its founders. \"This is about more than bricks and mortar, it's ultimately about the growth of our souls,\" he said, looking out over their crumbling gravestones, all facing east towards their motherland. \"Finding the ship has finally validated our truth.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Darron Patterson standing on the site of the future Africatown Welcome Center, Mobile","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Facebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Twitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Instagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E sign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-08T10:23:18Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The last known ship of the US slave trade","headlineShort":"The last ship of the US slave trade","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"30.6954","longitude":"-88.0399","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The discovery of the remains of the Clotilda, 160 years after it sank, brings new life and interest to the settlement built by the original survivors.","summaryShort":"It's led to a new start for the settlement built by the original survivors","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-07T21:24:51.763388Z","entity":"article","guid":"ecdd9815-5480-432c-969b-e62f1822c21c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:42:40.005003Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881469},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation","_id":"6225231e45ceed354e352c06","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flarry-bleiberg"],"bodyIntro":"Along US Route 40, African diplomats were routinely denied service at local establishments. But their treatment set off a civil rights struggle that led to outlawing segregation.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAdam Malick Sow had a headache. He was several hours into his trip from New York to Washington DC, and after his limousine crossed into the state of Maryland, he asked his driver to find a place to stop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few miles later, the newly appointed ambassador to the United States from the African nation of Chad stepped into a diner along US Route 40 and asked for a cup of coffee. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe answer on a summer day in 1961 would change history. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe wife of the diner's owner refused to serve the diplomat because he was black. \"He looked like just an ordinary run of the mill [N-word] to me. I couldn't tell he was an ambassador,\" Mrs Leroy Merritt later told the national magazine Life. \"I said 'There's no table service here'.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe insult sparked an international incident, making the front page of newspapers across Africa and Asia. Soon after, diplomats from Niger, Cameroon and Togo reported similar experiences at Maryland restaurants. Like others, they travelled on the same highway from the United Nations in New York to their embassies in Washington. And their treatment set off a little-remembered civil rights struggle that paved the way toward outlawing segregation in the United States. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, not even a marker commemorates the dozens of demonstrations that followed along the road, and most travellers zoom by the area on Interstate 95, one of the busiest highways in the country. But if they look carefully, they can find traces of the remarkable story of US Route 40, which parallels Interstate 95 in northern Maryland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bslh1q"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat's how I found myself pushing aside weeds along a busy four-lane road looking for a half-buried stone indicating the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-40638673\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMason-Dixon Line\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the demarcation between the US North and South. On its eastern edge, the line marks the boundary between the states of Delaware and Maryland. Local historian \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dixonhistory.com\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMike Dixon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E had shown me where to find it. \"That line had a lot of meaning,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough Delaware had some segregated restaurants at the time, in Maryland it was the rule. In 1961, once travellers crossed into the state, they were subject to the laws of the South, where blacks were routinely denied service at restaurants, stores and hotels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I developed a deep hatred – one shared by many – for Route 40","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStokely Carmichael, a pioneer in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.archives.gov\u002Fresearch\u002Fafrican-americans\u002Fblack-power\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlack Power movement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, faced regular humiliations as a college student when he stopped for meals along the road. \"I developed a deep hatred – one shared by many – for Route 40,\" he wrote in his book Ready for Revolution.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut once the region's entrenched racism started to ensnare diplomats, US president John F Kennedy was forced to take notice. The incidents were an embarrassment in the middle of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fhistory\u002Fworldwars\u002Fcoldwar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECold War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, threatening US global influence. One State Department official shared his frustration with a reporter at the time: \"Those damn limousines always seem to run out of gas just as soon as they get to Maryland.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bslh12"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd Kennedy wasn't particularly gracious about it either. \"Can't you tell those African ambassadors not to drive on Route 40. It's a hell of a road,\" he complained to a staff member. \"I wouldn't think of driving from New York to Washington. Tell them to fly.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe issues were hardly new. Nearly 60 years before the diplomats' complaints, the state of Maryland passed a law requiring segregation on public transportation. Black train passengers were forced to move to a \"coloured car\" when they arrived in Maryland. A few months later, a black law professor refused to give up his seat and was arrested, leading to a legal case that eventually overturned part of the law. The court prohibited segregation for interstate passengers whose trip originated outside of Maryland but allowed it for those who were travelling inside the state.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, a small brick train station, just off Route 40 in Elkton, Maryland, is used for storage. Dozens of Amtrak trains zoom by daily, without an indication that for a time the town was a stop to sort passengers by race. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the early 1960s, the sorting was happening at diners, restaurants and hotels. In the weeks after the incident with Ambassador Sow, the federal government quietly began to pressure Maryland restaurateurs to serve diplomats travelling through the area. But no sooner had some of the businesses agreed to comply, then the issue flared up again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bslh1j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThree black reporters from Maryland's Afro-American newspaper staged an elaborate charade. Two dressed up in tailcoats and top hats, and a third donned a robe and leopard-skin crown. They presented themselves at Route 40 restaurants, claiming to be officials from the non-existent East African country of Goban. One, who called himself Orfa (Afro spelled backwards), posed as the minister of finance. In their subsequent article, the journalists documented that they were served at most restaurants as long as they pretended that they weren't American. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe article outraged many. \"It would drive you crazy if you pondered it long enough,\" said Charles Mason, a black Baltimore resident who was 21 at the time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe worked with the Congress of Racial Equality (CORE), a national bi-racial group devoted to desegregation, organising picket lines along Route 40. The group called the effort Freedom Rides, a nod to the movement fighting segregation on buses and in public accommodation across the Deep South. CORE distributed a brochure listing restaurants that claimed to serve all travellers and ones that still were segregated. \"Help complete the job,\" it urged protestors. \"End racial discrimination along US 40.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMason, now 82, joined demonstrations on weekends, dressing in a suit and tie, while women wore dresses. \"We wanted to show a good image.\" Often, they were greeted by hostile crowds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bslh1x"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We were scared. All of us were scared,\" he said. He remembers white people screaming and hollering and \"wanting to bash me in the head\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMason will be featured in a Black history exhibit opening in May at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mdhistory.org\u002Fexhibitions\u002Fpassion-and-purpose\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaryland Center for History and Culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.amynathanbooks.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmy Nathan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Maryland author who writes about the civil rights movement, said the recognition is long overdue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"These were individual efforts by people who had just had enough, and they saw things needed to be changed,\" Nathan said. \"They were just walking back and forth in front of a roadside restaurant, but it's good to remember that what may seem like a small effort, when combined with other efforts, may have a big result.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost of the businesses that faced protests are long gone, replaced by strip shopping centres, fast food restaurants and petrol stations. But a few remain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt one, the Bar-H Chuck House in the Maryland town of North East, four demonstrators were arrested when they refused to leave. After they were jailed, three staged a hunger strike, Dixon told me. The county sheriff sent the strikers to the state mental hospital, saying the prisoners had to be insane to refuse food. But within 24 hours, they were back at the lockup. \"The state psychiatrist said: 'They aren't crazy, they're just protesting for social justice',\" Dixon said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bslh0k"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe diner's now called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fm.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002Fcategory\u002FDiner\u002FNorth-East-Family-Restaurant-729520420768121\u002F\"\u003ENorth East Family Restaurant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and owned by Ed Omar, originally from Alexandria, Egypt. He had never heard the story until I stopped by one morning. \"I just learned something new,\" he said. \"I'm North African. Look at me. I'd be the first one they'd kick out. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWaitress April Jones can't imagine refusing to serve someone who was black. \"Are you serious?\" she said. \"It is crazy. It's changed a lot.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I've got to Google this. It's a great thing to put on the wall","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI had a similar experience less than 20 miles down the road at the former Sportsmen Grill, which in 1961 faced white picketers carrying signs with messages like: \"Let's Have Dinner Together\" and \"Let's End Racism in America Now.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the restaurant in Aberdeen operates as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frayscaribbean.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERay's Caribbean American Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Owner Rayshad Beepath, an immigrant from Trinidad and Tobago, was amazed when I showed him a picture of the protest. \"I had no idea, no clue\" he said. \"I've got to Google this. It's a great thing to put on the wall.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bslh18"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe demonstrations had their effect. In 1963, Maryland passed a law banning discrimination in hotels, restaurants and other accommodations. \"The protests galvanised the governor and the legislature. It was the first state civil rights act,\" said James Karmel, a college professor and director of the Harford Civil Rights Project, which has created a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fharfordcivilrights.org\u002Ftours\u002Fshow\u002F3\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewebsite\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and app (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapps.apple.com\u002Fus\u002Fapp\u002Fid1588420953\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIOS\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fplay.google.com\u002Fstore\u002Fapps\u002Fdetails?id=org.curatescape.HarfordCivilRights\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAndroid\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) documenting the local Freedom Rides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the victory came almost too late for Route 40. On 14 November 1963, John F Kennedy helicoptered to the area to dedicate a new limited-access highway that would become part of Interstate 95.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, visitors stopping for a bathroom break or fast food at the highway's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitdelaware.com\u002Flistings\u002Fbiden-welcome-center\u002F5168\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBiden Welcome Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E can see pictures of Kennedy posing with dignitaries, and even watch a video of his brief speech.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn what would be one of his last public appearances before he was assassinated eight days later, Kennedy stood on a podium built on the Maryland-Delaware state border – the Mason-Dixon Line – to dedicate the road. He noted it would play a crucial role in linking cities on the US East Coast. And although Kennedy didn't mention it, there was another benefit too: travellers on the new highway wouldn't have to drive on Route 40.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-07T10:04:48Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The US highway that helped break segregation","headlineShort":"Where diplomats were denied coffee","image":["p0bslgxs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.4840363","longitude":"-76.2118752","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bslh1j"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210419-the-washington-dc-sauce-drenched-in-debate","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-hercules-posey-george-washingtons-unsung-enslaved-chef","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220207-the-last-known-ship-of-the-us-slave-trade"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Along US Route 40, African diplomats were routinely denied service at local establishments. But their treatment set off a civil rights struggle that led to outlawing segregation.","summaryShort":"Their treatment set off a little-remembered civil rights struggle","tag":["tag\u002Froad-trips","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-06T21:09:33.586808Z","entity":"article","guid":"23f22641-3d0b-4348-9d5e-add16d0cdced","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-07T12:54:47.932285Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881469},"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:external:travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","_id":"621e449d45ceed1be826569c","name":"World's Table","primaryVertical":"travel","sourceName":"Changing how the world thinks about food","sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220311211311\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","summaryLong":"BBC.com \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.","summaryShort":"World's Table","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"creationDateTime":"2022-02-23T14:52:13.800605Z","entity":"external","guid":"2ae4a402-4711-426f-adf7-a9b658a43fcd","id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T12:44:54.740029Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","image":["p09xq72k"],"promoImage":["p09xq72k"],"articleType":"external","headlineShort":"World's Table","promoAlignment":"center","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220311211311\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881469},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze","_id":"621e445345ceed69f346ce39","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Invented by the region's Moorish rulers 1,200 years ago, Valencia's irrigation system is now a model for sustainable farming.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's early. Fingers of sunlight are only just starting to creep along the streets of Valencia's Old Town, but the stalls inside the city's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mercadocentralvalencia.es\u002F\"\u003EMercado Central\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are doing a brisk trade already. There's a queue at the charcuterie, and the man behind the counter is slicing wafer-thin strips of \u003Cem\u003Ejamón serrano\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in double time. He zips from one customer to the next, ducking between stocky legs of ham that hang from the front of his stall like fatty windchimes. In the seafood section, tuna, sea bream, anchovies and huge pink langoustines glisten in the ice. One stall here specialises in snails; another sells only saffron.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmong them all, taking pride of place at the heart of the Mercado Central, are the fruit and vegetables – plump, richly coloured and all grown in La Huerta (L'Horta in Valencian), a patchwork of neat market gardens that fan out for 28 sq km around the city. Encarna Folgado, owner of Frutas y Verduras Folgado, has been running a stall here for more than 45 years, buying seasonal vegetables direct from the farmers who work in La Huerta's fields. If you need to buy the beans used in a traditional paella Valenciana, you come to Folgado.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The \u003Cem\u003Eferraúra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E have to have a bright green colour, but not too intense,\" she tells me, referring to the horseshoe-shaped beans that are almost spilling out of their crate. The \u003Cem\u003Erochet\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a red and green bean, \"has to be a few centimetres wider and thicker, but only a little bit\". And as for butterbeans, which I can see bulging through their cases, \"the best (ones) to eat are when they begin to turn from yellow to green\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlongside the beans are spongy heads of broccoli, waxy red peppers, fat garlic bulbs and spring onions the size of truncheons. They're all part of an incredible bounty of produce that is grown in La Huerta each year, despite the fact that its fields enclose Spain's third-largest city. The secret is an ingenious maze of channels, ditches, weirs and floodgates invented by the region's Moorish rulers 1,200 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Green fields and farmsteads in L'Horta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EEight main irrigation channels, or \u003Cem\u003Eacequías\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, funnel water from the River Turia, which is then carried – by gravity – along a series of smaller branches, which distribute the water to thousands of tiny plots across the fields. The amount of water each plot receives isn't measured in terms of volume but rather on how well the river is flowing. The unit, known as a \u003Cem\u003Efila\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (from the Arabic word meaning \"thread\"), represents an individual's right to a proportion of the water over a period of time; the irrigation cycle usually lasts a week, but when the river's level is low, the cycle is extended.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's an incredibly efficient system. Each plot receives the same access to water for the same amount of time, no matter where they are in the mosaic, and there are no water shortages, even in periods of drought. And the result is an incredibly diverse crop yield. Centuries-old local rice varieties grow in the fields around Lake Albufera, south of the city, while unique species like \u003Cem\u003Echufa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or tiger nuts (which are used to make the ice-cold milky Valencian drink of \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E), are sown in the north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211205-sigiriya-sri-lankas-ancient-water-gardens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA luxury resort from 1,500 years ago\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe technology that powered the Inca\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The system of water management adopted here [means that] aubergines, oranges, artichokes and olive trees can all co-exist together,\" said Clelia Maria Puzzo of the United Nations' Food & Agriculture Organization (FAO), which added La Huerta to their list of \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fnews\u002Fstory\u002Fen\u002Fitem\u002F1252906\u002Ficode\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGlobally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E (GIAHS) in November 2019. \"A variety of crops were imported from Asia and America hundreds of years ago, but they adapted perfectly because of this irrigation system.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe whole process is held together by a unique social organisation that has been governing La Huerta for more than 1,000 years. The \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftribunaldelasaguas.org\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETribunal de las Aguas de la Vega de la València\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E, or Water Court of the Plains of Valencia, was established around 960 CE and as such is officially the world's oldest judicial body. The tribunal is made up of eight farmers, elected representatives of the communities that work off each of the main irrigation channels, who meet to settle disputes outside the doorway of Valencia Cathedral every Thursday at noon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Water Tribunal meeting with crowds of people watching","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's quite a sight, with the men – they are all men – dressed in black smocks and seated in a semi-circle of leather-topped wooden chairs, where they enforce the rules of distribution. Water is the only issue up for debate, and according to María José Olmos Rodrigo, the Tribunal's secretary, the defendants are usually hauled before the court because \"they've flooded a neighbour's field, taken water out of turn or haven't maintained their section of irrigation ditch correctly\". Proceedings are in Valencian and are ruthlessly quick; all decisions are final.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's trendy to talk about resilience, but this is the history of La Huerta","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hortaviva.net\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhile the Tribunal has been an ever-present aspect of the system, the use of the land itself has evolved over time. \"It's trendy to talk about resilience, but this is the history of La Huerta,\" said Miquel Minguet, CEO of \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hortaviva.net\u002Fen\"\u003EHorta Viva\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E. \"We adapt the crops to the times, we change a lot, very often, just to survive.\" His company reflects this mentality, moving from farming a small organic garden near Alboraya, north of the city, to organising tomato tastings in La Huerta and running agritours around the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis culture of adaptation – in La Huerta's case, an intervention that has not only conserved but remarkably improved the existing conditions, according to FAO’s Puzzo – is seen as a potential sustainable solution to modern farming problems, and since July 2019, Valencia has been home to the \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcemas.global\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld Centre for Sustainable Urban Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E (CEMAS), an initiative set up with the aim of ensuring sustainable food for future generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Farmer Tony Montoliu cooking paella","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Production in La Huerta is basically intended for self-consumption and the local market,\" said Vicente Domingo, director of CEMAS. \"Thanks to its unique structure, it has managed to survive over the centuries with the efforts of generation upon generation of farmers that have preserved this land despite the pressure of urbanisation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose farmers include Tony Montoliu, who has worked a plot bordering the town of Meliana, in the north of La Huerta, since he was 12 years old. Montoliu was cultivating crops like okra and Chinese cabbage long before they became popular here and has a history of recovering seeds from species like the \u003Cem\u003Ecacau del collaret\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a highly regarded local peanut. \"Life as a farmer is about discovery,\" he said. \"You learn more every day because the field and the land are constantly talking.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMontoliu grows what he needs for his restaurant, a traditional \u003Cem\u003Ebarraca\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, one of the white-walled, gable-roofed thatched houses that you see dotted among the fields of La Huerta. Diners pick their own vegetables and Montoliu cooks what's required – often as part of a rabbit and chicken paella, his star dish – and then gives them any surplus to take home. It's the epitome of slow food, or \"zero metres\", as he calls it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost farmers, though, sell what they can't eat themselves at the Tira de Comptar, a wholesale market that is almost as old as the Tribunal de Aguas; or to Folgado and the other fruit and vegetable sellers in the Mercado Central, unfailingly furnishing their stalls with spongy heads of broccoli, waxy red peppers and fat garlic bulbs. And horseshoe-shaped \u003Cem\u003Eferraura\u003C\u002Fem\u003E beans – a bright green colour, but not too intense.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Rows of vegetables in the Mercado Central, Valencia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-21T23:01:39Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Spain's ingenious water maze","headlineShort":"An ingenious way to feed a city","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.466667","longitude":"-0.375000","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Invented by the region's Moorish rulers 1,200 years ago, Valencia's irrigation system is now a model for sustainable farming.","summaryShort":"It was invented by the region's Moorish rulers 1,200 years ago","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-20T23:04:53.984346Z","entity":"article","guid":"98138e27-6def-42ad-9218-a914acf0cdb1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:42:12.351475Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881473},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","_id":"621e445645ceed6b69086df6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Dubbed the \"food of kings\", the unassuming green gloop called molokhia was once outlawed in Egypt because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's easy to swallow, so Egyptian mothers feed their babies on it after nursing,\" remarked Emad Farag, an employee at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marriott.com.au\u002Fhotels\u002Ftravel\u002Fcaixr-the-st-regis-cairo\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe St. Regis Cairo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as I slurped another spoonful of the mysterious moss-coloured soup. Of all the things I'd imagined I'd be dining on in Cairo's swankiest new hotel, \"posh baby food\" was not it. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut this uniquely gummy concoction \u003Cem\u003Eis no ordinary baby food. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EPronounced \"mo-lo-h-i-a\", but spelt innumerable ways, the unassuming green gloop was once the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers. Originating from the word \u003Cem\u003Emulukia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"that which belongs to the royals\", legend has it that a healing soup made from the molokhia plant nursed an Egyptian ruler back to health in the 10th Century. And so, a stew worthy of pharaohs was born, and a royal veggie was crowned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"As far back as you can trace the roots, people ate what was local, and what is local along the Nile is molokhia,\" food historian-cum-food health writer Michelle Berriedale-Johnson said. To this day, 95% of Egyptians live along the fabled river's life-giving banks and arc-shaped delta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia is a staple of every Egyptian kitchen","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"They were eating \u003Cem\u003Eful \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a hearty fava bean stew) and molokhia in pharaonic times, and they're eatingful and molokhia now, because that's what grows and what suits their diet and the climate,\" Berriedale-Johnson continued. \"You'll get leaves in some of the tomb paintings,\" she said of the saw-toothed leaf vegetable that belongs to the mallow family. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.ch\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FTreasure_Trove_of_Benefits_and_Variety_a.html?id=fIJ1DwAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=kp_read_button&hl=en&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETreasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table: A Fourteenth-Century Egyptian Cookbook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, author Nawal Nasrallah writes: \"The ancient Egyptians left no culinary recipes, but food remains from their tombs and coffin murals, that depict baking and other food-related activities, testify to the sophisticated level of their cuisine… These depictions also reveal the abundance of their produce such as Jew's mallow (mulukhiyya).\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite its plentiful supply, molokhia wasn't always available to the masses. According to folklore, the Caliph of Cairo (one of Egypt's rulers from the 10th Century Fatimid dynasty) outlawed consumption of the viscous soup because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect on women.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The molokhia plant grows along the Nile is sold at markets in Egypt","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo longer the preserve of pharaohs, these days molokhia is a staple of every Egyptian kitchen. While the official national dish is \u003Cem\u003Ekoshary\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a vegetarian medley of rice, chickpeas, macaroni and lentils) most Egyptians consider molokhia to be the country's emblematic meal. The earthy and grassy flavoured at-home dish is ordinarily eaten in the evening – paired with rice, bread or meat. However, some purists (and children) will consume molokhia neat, as a lunchtime soup. It's also a regular fixture on the menus of no-frills Egyptian restaurants like Cairo's El Prince on Talaat Harb Street.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Molokhia's for the rich and the poor","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's not an expensive vegetable,\" Farag said. \"Molokhia's for the rich and the poor.\" In Aswan's Sharia as-Souq, I queued alongside a construction worker, bank manager and taxi driver to buy bunches of it from a rusty wheelbarrow manned by Mahmoud. The 15-year-old market vendor told me he sells 110 EGP ($7) of molokhia daily, harvested on his family's one-hectare plot in nearby \u003Cem\u003EAbu El\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E-\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EReesh.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world\"\u003EThe world's best falafel?\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170323-the-deadly-dish-people-love-to-eat\"\u003EThe deadly dish people love to eat\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200329-bahariya-and-farafra-egypts-bizarre-desert-landscape\"\u003EEgypt's bizarre desert landscape\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELuckier stallholders get to shelter from the stifling sun under rainbow parasols lining the bazaar's seven blocks, which run parallel to the Nile. I followed my nose to Al Reda spice store on Saad Zaghloul Street, where burlap sacks overflowed with dried hibiscus flowers, cumin and dried molokhia. The store's third-generation owner Moustafa Mohammed told me that while his ancestors made\u003Cem\u003Emolokhia nashfa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which uses dried versus fresh leaves, he mops up his molokhia with baladi (Egypt's ancient answer to pita).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Moustafa Mohammed, who sells dried molokhia, is Al Reda spice store's owner","imageOrientation":"portrait","pullQuote":"Moustafa Mohammed, who sells dried molokhia, is Al Reda spice store's owner\np09r4dc2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFamily traditions and geography dictate how and what is eaten with molokhia. In coastal cities like Alexandria, locals devour \u003Cem\u003Emolokhia bel gambary\u003C\u002Fem\u003E with shrimps. Meanwhile, in the country's rural hinterland, it's paired with poached rabbit – a meat of the privileged few in ancient Egypt. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETarek Helmy – a semi-retired consultant from Cairo – folds the green gloop into rice, as his father did.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Even the eating of molokhia can be different from one house to another,\" Helmy told me over a lavish lunch at his home in a gated community on Cairo's fringes. The invitation came about after a serendipitous meeting with one of Helmy's close friends in Luxor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHelmy is one of a growing number of upper middle-class Egyptians who've traded Cairo's relentless din and dust for greened suburbia. Despite having deep pockets, he still delights in eating the slimy soup twice a week. \"Good molokhia sticks to the rice rather than separating into a watery pool on the plate,\" he explained. \"I even flew my mother over to Dubai, when I lived there, to teach my cook how to make molokhia!\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The makhrata, a mezzaluna-like utensil was created specifically for shredding molokhia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStepping into Helmy's spotless kitchen, I watched as his cook (also named Tarek), worked up a sweat rocking an arched blade to and fro over fresh molokhia leaves. Known as a \u003Cem\u003Emakhrata, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe mezzaluna-like utensil was created specifically for shredding molokhia. It's a laborious task, which, it transpires, is key to molokhia's uniquely mucilaginous (gum-like) texture – one that has tourists either loving or loathing the dish. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those who can stomach the slime, their gut and waistline will thank them later. \"It (molokhia) has all kinds of good digestive virtues,\" Berriedale-Johnson said. A recent study published in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fabs\u002Fpii\u002FS0378874120301756\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJournal of Ethnopharmacology\u003C\u002Fa\u003E reveals that its leaves can even prevent gut inflammation and obesity. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA superfood without the cult following or jacked-up prices, molokhia is packed with Vitamin C, E, potassium, iron and fibre. \"It [molokhia] also contains certain antioxidant carotenoids and antioxidant elements, making a well-rounded and highly beneficial addition to your diet,\" Cairo-based child nutritionist Mai Amer told me of the nutritional powerhouse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tarek Helmy (here, with a friend) eats molokhia twice a week with rice","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack in the kitchen, I joined Tarek over a sublime-smelling stove. \"If you hear the \u003Cem\u003Etsas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a sizzle), you're doing it right,\" he said, ladling the molokhia into a simmering pan of garlic, ground coriander and melted ghee. \"I add in some tomato for tartness and sweetness.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch like molokhia's regional variations, chefs have their own riffs on the recipe. Mohammed Fatih, a chef at Aswan's Makka Restaurant (located on Abtal el Tahrir Street) revealed, \"My secret is to cook a broth base made with bones from the inside of a cow's tail and simmer it for three hours.\" The freshly-minced molokhia is then slowly added to the broth. Meanwhile, Luxor-born head chef Hussein Mustafa (who works on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sanctuaryretreats.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESanctuary Retreat's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E trio of luxury Nile river yachts) asserts the importance of provenance. \"The best molokhia is grown amongst sugar cane fields. That's why molokhia is better in the south (of Egypt) than the north.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you hear the tsas (a sizzle), you're doing it right","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFayoum, which lies 100km south-west of Cairo in Middle Egypt is a lush oasis, where desert dunes give way to swaying palms, natural sulphur springs and endless green fields. Pharaoh Amenemhat III (1818-1770 BCE) eyed up the area's agricultural potential, and 3,500 years later, Fayoum's glut of molokhia farmers continue to work its fertile land. Wall-to-wall sunshine and the well-drained soil are perfect conditions for molokhia, which grows here from May to August in as little as 60 days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe two-metre-high, super-green is also cultivated on Cairo's dusty, abandoned roof terraces. Malik Tag, head of smart farming at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fschaduf.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchaduf\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, gave me a tour of the social enterprise's rooftop headquarters (located in the upmarket neighbourhood of \u003Cem\u003EMaadi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E),where new urban garden concepts are being trialled. Molokhia was one of the first vegetables to be grown as part of Schaduf's community-led hydroponic farming projects, he said. \"The initiative(s) enabled low-income families to sell leafy greens (including molokhia) to the city's high-end supermarkets.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEleven kilometres away in the outlying city of Giza, I met with 27-year-old receptionist Mimi Melad, a self-proclaimed stickler for tradition when it comes to molokhia. \"I always cook with fresh (molokhia) from a stall on Al-Haram Street near my home,\" she said. \"And I do the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(pronounced \"\u003C\u002Fem\u003Echa-h'a\") every time,\" she continued, referring to an age-old cooking ritual still practised today by some Egyptian women. Believed to make the dish more flavoursome, the cook leaned over the steaming molokhia, mouthing the words \"\u003Cem\u003Eshahe't el mulukhiyah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003Ewhile making an audible gasp, before clamping the pan's lid shut.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My mother, grandmother and her mother all did the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" Melad said, brimming with pride. Something tells me the \u003Cem\u003Eshahe't\u003C\u002Fem\u003E will be around in another four generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-03T17:06:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A superfood fit for a pharaoh","headlineShort":"The vegetable outlawed by royalty","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"26.8349263","longitude":"26.3814652","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Molokhia was once considered the \"food of kings\" because of its curative powers","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Dubbed the \"food of kings\", the unassuming green gloop called molokhia was once outlawed in Egypt because of its alleged aphrodisiac effect.","summaryShort":"The unassuming green gloop was once the \"food of kings\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-02T17:27:12.915103Z","entity":"article","guid":"01cd7f09-3422-48b4-a167-92e1e0b9f972","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:31:55.602601Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881473},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late","_id":"621e444845ceed5ba66a5bc6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Many travellers believe Spain’s late mealtimes are a reflection of the country’s laidback attitude, but that couldn’t be further from the truth.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt is 10pm in the Madrid neighbourhood of La Latina, one of the city’s oldest areas, and the cobbled streets thrum with the sounds of people enjoying plates of \u003Cem\u003Egambas al ajillo \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(garlic prawns) and \u003Cem\u003Ecocido Madrileño \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a hearty chickpea, pork and chorizo stew). Restaurants are bustling at an hour when, in most other countries, chefs would be hanging up their aprons for the night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile travellers might attribute Spain’s late mealtimes to the country’s laidback Mediterranean attitude, the real reason is a little more peculiar. Spaniards are living in the wrong time zone, and have been for more than 70 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGlance at a map and you’ll realise that Spain – sitting, as it does, along the same longitude as the UK, Portugal and Morocco – should be in Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). But Spain goes by Central European Time (CET), putting it in sync with the Serbian capital Belgrade, more than 2,500km east of Madrid.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Spaniards are living in the wrong time zone, and have been for more than 70 years.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESo why are Spaniards living behind their geographic time zone?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 1940, General Francisco Franco changed Spain’s time zone, moving the clocks one hour forward in solidarity with Nazi Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Spaniards, who at the time were utterly devastated by the Spanish Civil War, complaining about the change did not even cross their minds. They continued to eat at the same time, but because the clocks had changed, their 1pm lunches became 2pm lunches, and they were suddenly eating their 8pm dinners at 9pm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter World War II ended, the clocks were never changed back. However, in 2016, Spanish Prime Minister Mariano Rajoy \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fmagazine-35995972\"\u003Eannounced\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the government was working on a plan to implement a new workday schedule ending at 6pm as opposed to 8pm. One important element of the plan was evaluating the possibility of changing Spain’s time zone from CET to GMT – something that has sparked a heated discussion throughout the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBeing 60 minutes behind the correct time zone means the sun rises later and sets later, bestowing Spain with gloriously long summer evenings and 10pm sunsets. Those who run Spain’s tourist resorts believe that more sunlight is a large draw for visitors. The regional government of the Balearic Islands ‒ which include Mallorca, Menorca and Ibiza ‒ is strongly against returning to GMT and has even campaigned to maintain year-round summer time (CET+1) to allow visitors to take full advantage of the region’s mild winter climate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut for many Spaniards, living in the wrong time zone has resulted in sleep deprivation and decreased productivity. The typical Spanish work day begins at 9am; after a two-hour lunch break between 2 and 4pm, employees return to work, ending their day around 8pm. The later working hours force Spaniards to save their social lives for the late hours. Prime-time television doesn’t start until 10:30pm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, in the northwestern region of Galicia, the sun doesn’t rise until after 9am in winter, meaning that residents are starting their day in the dark.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The fact that the time in Spain doesn’t correspond to the sun affects health, especially sleep,” said José Luis Casero, president of the National Commission for the Rationalization of Spanish Schedules, an organisation that has been campaigning for Spain to return to the correct time zone since 2006. “If we changed time zones, the sun would rise one hour earlier and we’d wake up more naturally, meal times would be one hour earlier and we’d get an extra hour’s sleep.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESpaniards have traditionally coped with their late nights by taking a mid-morning coffee break and a two-hour lunch break, giving them the opportunity to enjoy one of the country’s most famous traditions: the siesta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It doesn’t fit with reality.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChanging the workday would threaten Spaniards’ customary naptime, although whether or not citizens would mind is still up for debate. A January 2017 \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.simplelogica.com\u002Fiop\u002Fiop16020_la_siesta_entre_los_espa%C3%B1oles.asp\"\u003Estudy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by research company Simple Lógica found that less than 18% of Spaniards nap regularly, while nearly 60% never take a siesta. In fact, business owners in many of the country’s major cities and holiday resorts remain open during the midday break to cater to tourists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, those who do nap express frustration when changes in their daily routine prevent them from sleeping mid-day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We should really banish the siesta in Spain because it doesn’t fit with reality,” Casero said. “And with the change of time zone bringing meal times forward and giving us an extra hour of sleep, there would be less need for a rest at midday.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen it comes down to it, economist Nuria Chinchilla, an expert in work-life balance at the Instituto de Estudios Superiores de la Empresa business school in Barcelona, feels that quality of life for Spaniards is more pressing than preserving an extra hour or two of evening light for tourists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We have continuous jetlag,” she said. “Tourism will always be there and tourists don’t care. The number of hours of sunlight will be the same, whether it is an extra hour in the morning or in the evening.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin over three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-05-08T14:17:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The real reason why Spaniards eat late","headlineShort":"The strange reason Spaniards eat late","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Many travellers believe Spain’s late mealtimes are a reflection of the country’s laidback attitude, but that couldn’t be further from the truth.","summaryShort":"Spain’s famous late-night culture is not as traditional as you may think","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:00:52.985685Z","entity":"article","guid":"5377831d-ec43-49d0-bd82-dab7e76c692e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:08:11.079579Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881474},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","_id":"621e445345ceed69e04dbc4a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fvicky-smith"],"bodyIntro":"Gluten-free, sweet and nutritionally dense, tiger nuts are being hailed as a rising \"superfood\". But in Valencia, Spain, these tasty tubers have been popular for centuries.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStretching across the drying room in a vast, rippled expanse, the tiger nuts seemed almost like desert dunes. I'd come to Valencia towards the end of their harvesting and found the sight of this immense volume – hundreds upon thousands, perhaps even millions – impressive. Singling one out, however, I was surprised to discover a small, wrinkled form that looked distinctly less inspiring. Where tiger nuts are concerned, it turns out, appearances really are deceiving.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFirstly they're not actually nuts, despite being firm and brown, but tubers of the sedge plant \u003Cem\u003ECyperus esculentus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. And in spite of their peculiar misshapen looks, they're considered the ultimate health food. \"They're packed full of nutrients like fibre and iron, making them great for gut health, and are gluten and lactose-free too,\" said Ani de la Prida, who co-founded \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thetigernutcompany.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Tiger Nut Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2016. Rumour says they even boost libido.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlso very moreish (as I've realised), with a creamy texture and sweet nutty aftertaste, tiger nuts have been \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goodhousekeeping.com\u002Fhealth\u002Fdiet-nutrition\u002Fa20706671\u002Fhealth-benefits-of-tiger-nuts\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehailed as a rising \"superfood\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Good Housekeeping magazine in the US . Yet in Spain, where they're known as \"\u003Cem\u003Echufas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\", these plant powerhouses have been popular for centuries – particularly in Valencia, whose beloved chufa-based drink \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E dates to the 13th Century. So integral is this milky beverage to Valencian culture that, alongside cafes and ice cream parlours, it's served up in its own specialist stores known as \u003Cem\u003Ehorchaterías\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwk86"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Horchateria Daniel in Valencia's Colón Market","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHorchata is indelibly linked to Valencia's success in tiger nut cultivation, a practice that began in Ancient Egypt (the tubers have even been found buried in pharaohs' tombs) before spreading throughout wider North Africa; from there it was introduced into Valencia following the Muslim conquest of Hispania in 711. Cultivation took hold in L'Horta Nord, part of a vast agricultural region on the city's outskirts, known in English as \"The Orchard\". It now takes place across 19 towns in the area, where the sandy soil coupled with Valencia's temperate climate makes for ideal growing conditions. About 5.3 million kilograms of tiger nuts are produced here, 90% of which are covered by a special \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fen.chufadevalencia.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDenomination of Origin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E status designed to regulate quality among regional products in the European Union.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpain's ingenious water maze\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe vegetable outlawed by royalty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe real reason why Spaniards eat late\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELegend claims that James I of Aragon, King of Valencia from 1238 to 1276, was served horchata by a young woman in the L'Horta Nord town of Alboraya. She introduced it as \"\u003Cem\u003Ellet de xufa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (Valencian for \"chufa milk\"), to which he replied \"\u003Cem\u003ELlet no, això és or xata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E!\"(\"That's not milk, that's gold, pretty girl!\"). Tempting as the fable is, the word \"horchata\" actually stems from the Latin \u003Cem\u003Ehordeata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"of barley\": the term was originally coined for a barley-based drink but has since come to signify a range of \"plant milk\" beverages across the world, also including versions such as Mexico's \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata de arroz\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rice). Regardless, inspired by the tale of Valencia's enthusiastic king, \u003Cem\u003Ehorchata de chufa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is still affectionally nicknamed \"white gold\" to this day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI tried my first glass in the city's Colón Market, a striking Art Nouveau edifice that recalls renowned Catalonian architect Antoni Gaudí, and instantly could see the appeal. Sweet, cool and refreshing, it's essentially like drinking tiger nuts – after all, the only other primary ingredient is water – and contains all their nutritional properties to boot. The only caveat was the extra sugar, something I'd argue isn't needed but is a popular addition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwk15"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Tiger nut crops in front of Alquería El Machistre in L'Horta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Valencians have a sweet tooth,\" laughed Toni Peinado, co-owner at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhorchateria-daniel.es\u002F\"\u003EHorchatería Daniel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in whose second branch I was sitting. Arguably Valencia's most famous horchatería company, it was founded by Alboraya-born Daniel Tortajada, one of the first people to start selling horchata, in 1949: previously, perhaps because tiger nut cultivation was too labour-intensive before the widespread use of machinery, it had largely been a non-commercial drink made in homes for family events and festive days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter selling horchata from his house and the local market, Tortajada launched his first standalone premise in 1979 on what would come to be known as the Avenida de la Horchata (Horchata Avenue), a road connecting Valencia and the nearby town of Alboraya. He was also instrumental in founding the Association of Artisan Horchata Makers, becoming its first president and soliciting Denomination of Origin status for the region's tiger nuts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince then, two more generations of Tortajadas have taken the reins of the business, which has received everyone from surrealist artist Salvador Dalí to actor Vigo Mortensen throughout its illustrious history. Now, also encompassing two Valencia sites alongside its Alboraya flagship store, the brand has continued its enterprising spirit with a diverse range of tiger nut products spanning cosmetics to bakery goods. The latter is particularly apt as it was founder Daniel, Peinado told me, who inspired the custom of accompanying horchata with \u003Cem\u003Efartons\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – long, spongy buns designed for dunking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Enjoying a glass of horchata and some fartons is one of our favourite ways to socialise,\" he said, \"much like with the British and their tea.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwjvt"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Fartons laid out at Horchateria Santa Catalina in Valencia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitvalencia.com\u002Fen\u002Fwhat-to-do-valencia\u002Fgastronomy\u002Fwhat-to-eat\u002Fesmorzaret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhile the inventor of horchata de chufa is unknown, 13th-Century records show a comparable drink being made near Valencia: it's clearly imbued with history and tradition, and the same can be said for the L'Horta region in which tiger nuts are farmed. Listed as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fgiahs\u002Fgiahsaroundtheworld\u002Fdesignated-sites\u002Feurope-and-central-asia\u002Fhistorical-waterscape-of-lhorta-de-valencia\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003EGlobally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"The Orchard\" is famed for its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eancient Arabic irrigation system\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – which sees farmers don black dress and gather weekly for the Water Court, a Unesco-inscribed practice dating back more than 1,000 years – and is the birthplace of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitvalencia.com\u002Fen\u002Fwhat-to-do-valencia\u002Fgastronomy\u002Fwhat-to-eat\u002Fesmorzaret\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eesmorzaret\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Valencian \"mid-morning snack\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Enjoying a glass of horchata and some fartons is one of our favourite ways to socialise","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis melange of paddies and plantations just outside of Valencia is also home to distinctive regional architecture, from humble \u003Cem\u003Ebarraca\u003C\u002Fem\u003E farmhouses with steeply pitched roofs to \u003Cem\u003Ealquerías\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the grand country residences typically occupied by wealthy landowners. It's one of these, Alquería El Machistre, that houses the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.comunitatvalenciana.com\u002Fen\u002Fvalencia\u002Falboraia-alboraya\u002Fmuseums\u002Fmuseo-de-la-horchata\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseum of Horchata and Tiger Nuts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: based near the town of Alboraya in the chufa stronghold of L'Horta Nord, it opened in 2007 and can be visited by appointment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisits  include a tour of the 11th-Century alquería itself, a sprawling white-washed manor whose largely 18th-Century interior reflects historical local trades like silk and ceramics. When I arrived on an unusually overcast day, I was led round by affable guide Victoria Buzón before heading to the horchata museum, situated in a small but information-packed room with adjoining interior courtyard. Here, I learned that the tiger nut plant likely originated in West Africa, where it was used in medicinal potions. \"Nowadays, West Africa has its own versions of horchata de chufa,\" said Buzón, \"though its chufas are bigger and have less flavour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBuzón also explained how tiger nuts are cultivated in L'Horta Nord. It's a slow, meticulous process that begins with planting between March and May, when temperatures are gentler with lots of humidity. Tubers are then collected from November to January with a harvester, after which the ground is burned to manage further spread: considered an invasive species (and a weed in much of the world), \u003Cem\u003ECyperus esculentus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E must be carefully managed. Once washed, the tiger nuts are dried for about three months in specially ventilated buildings known as \"\u003Cem\u003Ecambras\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" before being manually sorted to remove any damaged specimens or impurities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwjsc"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"B&W photo of men harvesting tiger nuts in L'Horta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn contrast, making horchata is relatively straightforward: cleansed tiger nuts are soaked for eight to 12 hours before being ground and added to water. Next, the macerated mixture is pressed and sifted to create the final extract, to which sugar is usually added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet within this deceptively simple concoction lie millennia of painstaking labour and royal legends, Pharaonic burials and age-old traditions. Stir in tiger nuts' extensive health benefits and it's easy to see how this potent Valencian super-drink really can be considered \"white gold\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-25T00:14:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Spain's 'white gold' super-drink","headlineShort":"Spain's 'white gold' super-drink","image":["p0bqwk9r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.466667","longitude":"-0.375000","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bqwmh7"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220220-valencias-la-huerta-spains-ingenious-water-maze","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170504-the-strange-reason-spaniards-eat-late"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Gluten-free, sweet and nutritionally dense, tiger nuts are being hailed as a rising \"superfood\". But in Valencia, Spain, these tasty tubers have been popular for centuries.","summaryShort":"This sweet, milky beverage is gluten-free and nutritionally dense","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-24T20:23:45.028552Z","entity":"article","guid":"e6871a28-806a-4166-8132-3de1f0e724e9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-24T20:23:45.028552Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220224-spains-white-gold-super-drink","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fspain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_spain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881470},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","_id":"621e445745ceed69eb579abb","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In Western Australia, 3.5bn-year-old stromatolites built up the oxygen content of the Earth’s atmosphere to about 20%, giving the kiss of life to all that was to evolve.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe sunroof was open and the tinted windows were wound down. It was the closest I could get to soaking in the surrounds of desert and sea under the cloud-sailing sky.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI was on Indian Ocean Drive heading a couple of hours north of Perth to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.westaustralianexplorer.com\u002Fstromatolites-at-lake-thetis\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake Thetis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, on Western Australia’s wildcard Coral Coast. Like an M C Escher drawing, the landscape morphs from market gardens to limestone-spotted scrub, soundtracked with clattering windmills drawing water from the Yarragadee Aquifer formed during the Jurassic era. There were white-trunked eucalypts and punk-haired grass trees sprouting in their thousands, flocks of black cockatoos in raucous flight and, sadly, dozens of kangaroos that had ended their days as roadkill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGoing on a road trip along the coast of the oldest continent on Earth was bound to be steeped in mysteries. As I passed green and yellow road signs warning to keep a look out for kangaroos, emus and echidnas, there was another rare life form I was seeking an audience with – one that traces its ancestry to the beginning of time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStromatolites are living fossils and the oldest living lifeforms on our planet. The name derives from the Greek, \u003Cem\u003Estroma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning “mattress”, and \u003Cem\u003Elithos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning “rock”. Stromatolite literally means “layered rock”. The existence of these ancient rocks extends three-quarters of the way back to the origins of the Solar System.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith a citizen scientist’s understanding, stromatolites are stony structures built by colonies of microscopic photosynthesising organisms called cyanobacteria. As sediment layered in shallow water, bacteria grew over it, binding the sedimentary particles and building layer upon millimetre layer until the layers became mounds. Their empire-building brought with it their most important role in Earth’s history. They breathed. Using the sun to harness energy, they produced and built up the oxygen content of the Earth’s atmosphere to about 20%, giving the kiss of life to all that was to evolve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We can witness how the world looked at the dawn of time","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELiving stromatolites are found in only a few salty lagoons or bays on Earth. Western Australia is internationally significant for its variety of stromatolite sites, both living and fossilised. Fossils of the earliest known stromatolites, about 3.5 billion years old, are found about 1,000km north, near Marble Bar in the Pilbara region. With Earth an estimated 4.5 billion years old, it’s staggering to realise we can witness how the world looked at the dawn of time when the continents were forming. Before plants. Before dinosaurs. Before humans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190902-an-extraordinary-landscape-at-the-edge-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn extraordinary landscape at the edge of the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200826-the-fight-to-save-australias-ancient-dinosaur-trees\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe fight to save Australia’s ancient dinosaur trees\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia’s answer to the Northern Lights\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Indian Ocean Drive beat along. Every now and then through the scrub I caught glimpses of the blowy, white-capped turquoise water. Then snatches of the stark white, rippling sand dunes of the town of Lancelin. This is a coastline of shipwrecks and lobster shacks, of the scouring Roaring Forties, the wild westerly \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fearth\u002Fstory\u002F20151009-where-is-the-windiest-place-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estorm-bearing winds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E whipping the latitudes 40 and 50 degrees south, and the summer-soothing winds of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190902-an-extraordinary-landscape-at-the-edge-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFremantle Doctor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, colloquially named for the relief it brings on a searing summer’s afternoon. This is a wild, weathered coast of enchantment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI was almost at Cervantes, the rock lobster capital of the coast on the northern edge of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.australiascoralcoast.com\u002Fdestination\u002Fcervantes\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENambung National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A couple of kilometres down a dirt road, I reached Lake Thetis, the home of the stromatolites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELake Thetis was small, shallow and triangular. The bush track wound through thick-leaved, blue-petalled fanflower, seed-headed rushes and rashes of red-beaded samphire. Every now and then, the local kangaroos popped their heads up to check us out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd then I saw them. There were thousands of pumice-hued stromatolites quasi-camouflaged beneath the ripples, submerged like migrations of ancient turtles holding their breaths under the slightly opaque water. I was awestruck. Blocking out the peripheral surrounds and imagining the sky methane orange from volcanic activity, this is what life looked like at the beginning of time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELake Thetis is just more than 2m deep and double the salinity of the sea. The lake became isolated about 4,800 years ago when the sea level fell during the last major glacial epoch. Shorelines receded and coastal dunes trapped the water inland, creating the lake. These stony oxygen givers are estimated to have been growing for about 3,500 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA metal walkway braces out over the lake so you can see the stromatolites beneath. On the 1.5km walk that circumnavigates the lake, it’s look, but don’t touch, as many of the these ancient relics have been damaged by people carelessly walking on them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut there’s another side of the stromatolite family that is present on this stretch of coast. Evolutionary progress around a billion years ago started a slow segue that saw the layered stromatolites disappear as another variation emerged. They were their younger cousins: the thrombolites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAbout an hour’s drive south of Perth, I took the Old Coast Road into the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fparks.dpaw.wa.gov.au\u002Fpark\u002Fyalgorup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYalgorup National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.westernaustralia.com\u002Fen\u002FAttraction\u002FLake_Clifton_Thrombolites\u002F56b2671b2cbcbe7073ae0f3b#\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake Clifton\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, home to the largest lake-dwelling thrombolites in the Southern Hemisphere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the charismatic science presenter and University of Manchester’s rock star of particle physics, Professor Brian Cox, visited the thrombolites for his documentary series, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb00zdhtg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWonders of the Universe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, his awe for the “weird, rocky blobs in the shallows” inspired many travellers to seek out Lake Clifton, to see “the first life on Earth”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThrombolite derives from the same root as thrombosis, which means “clot”. Thrombolites are clotted in appearance, whereas stromatolites are layered. According to the late Dr Linda Moore from the University of Western Australia, stromatolites went into decline at a time where there was an explosion of more advanced marine life. Their ecosystem became challenged as the predator amoeba and other single-celled organisims called foraminifera used their finger-like extensions to engulf stromatolites, turning their fine, layered structures into clumps. To survive, stromatolites needed highly saline water that restricted other competing sea life, whereas thrombolites adapted. They survived and prospered in an environment less salty than the sea, their clotted texture providing a home where tiny fauna could coexist. With an impressive ancient lineal ancestry, Lake Clifton’s thrombolites are estimated to be a youthful 2,000 years old.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHere, too, a boardwalk ventures through the reeds and over the brackish lake, where beneath, the thrombolites can be viewed. With careful watching, you can see tiny strings of oxygen rising to the water’s surface. They are breathing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fwatch\u002F?v=881210708907989\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENoongar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E people of this region, their Dreamtime story tells the origin of the thrombolites. With the land dry, the Noongars prayed to the sea for the water to become fresh. Their creator left the sea in the form of the serpent, Woggaal Maadjit. She pushed through the sand dunes, creating an inlet. She laid her eggs (the thrombolites) and curled her body to protect them (the sand dunes protecting the lake). The baby serpents from the eggs that hatched carved out rivers, then when dying, they tunnelled underground forming subterranean springs on their way back to the Dreamtime.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese springs provided fresh water for the Noongar people. From a scientific point of view, the microbial thrombolites use sunlight to photosynthesise for energy and to precipitate calcium carbonate (limestone) from the freshwater springs that bubble from the underlying aquifer. Groundwater flow that is low in salinity and nutrients and high in alkalinity is integral to their growth and survival; any alteration challenges their existence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELake Clifton is a fragile environment. In 2009, the thrombolites were listed as critically endangered and are now protected under the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.environment.gov.au\u002Fwater\u002Fwetlands\u002Framsar\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERamsar Convention on Wetlands of International Importance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, placing this area in the same category as the Ramsar-listed, World Heritage \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnorthernterritory.com\u002Fkakadu-and-surrounds\u002Fdestinations\u002Fkakadu-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKakadu National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Australia’s largest national park that preserves the greatest variety of ecosystems on the continent. Conservation actions for Lake Clifton now include the construction of the boardwalk to prevent crushing the thrombolites, monitoring water quality and levels, protecting the buffer of native vegetation that helps filter nutrients and pollutants, monitoring the health of the thrombolite community and liaising with urban and agricultural landholders to manage and protect water quality.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Survival for these ancient organisms is tenuous","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese stepping stones of life are in need of protection. The change in climate is affecting the lake’s salinity. Encroaching urbanisation has increased the inflow of nutrients, causing algal bloom that blocks sunlight and smothers the thrombolites. In just more than 100 years of human-induced stresors on the lake, survival of these ancient organisms is tenuous. Like the Dreamtime serpent, Woggaal Maadjit, it is up to us to protect them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fnatures-curiosities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENature’s Curiosities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that offers a close-up look at the natural world, taking adventurous travellers on an unexpected journey of exploration.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-18T20:42:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Stromatolites: The Earth’s oldest living lifeforms","headlineShort":"A billion-year-old living organism","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Western Australia, 3.5bn-year-old stromatolites built up the oxygen content of the Earth’s atmosphere to about 20%, giving the kiss of life to all that was to evolve.","summaryShort":"They date three-quarters of the way back to the Solar System’s origins","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:00:18.964641Z","entity":"article","guid":"35fe61a4-962b-4ce3-834c-7c7218d695d8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:21:13.539317Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881481},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef","_id":"621e445b45ceed709404b3ea","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A hub for marine life and sustainable tourism, the Southern Great Barrier Reef is having a moment.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"You might want to stay in the water for another minute,\" our skipper called out from the nearby boat as our small group surfaced from a dive on Lady Musgrave Island's magnificent outer reef. \"There's a pod of whales coming straight for you,\" he grinned, and swiftly maneuvered the boat out of the path of the incoming cetaceans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPeering down through my snorkel goggles, the turquoise water was so clear that I could make out the mantra ray cleaning station some 20m below us, where we'd observed one of these majestic kites of the sea dancing in the current as small fish nibbled at its vast white underbelly. Then everything went black as five barnacle-encrusted humpback whales swam directly beneath us, the gentle giants gliding just metres from the tips of our fins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn this extraordinary corner of Queensland's Great Barrier Reef, it's difficult to believe the World Heritage Site \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-57938858\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enarrowly escaped\u003C\u002Fa\u003E being put on Unesco's \"in danger\" list earlier this year. Though few travellers will have heard of the setting of my blockbuster dive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPart of the Capricorn and Bunker Group, a cluster of coral cays and reefs on the southern fringe of the Great Barrier Reef, Lady Musgrave Island is one of the reef's best-kept secrets. While tourists have been visiting the Northern Great Barrier Reef since the 1890s, intrepid travellers didn't start arriving the southern section until the 1930s, when the turtle cannery on Heron Island was converted into a holiday resort. Yet the Southern Great Barrier Reef (which spans some 300km from the Capricorn Coast down to the Bundaberg region) still receives far fewer visitors than the likes of Cairns and the Whitsundays, accounting for less than 9% of the reef's 2.4 million annual visitors pre-Covid-19.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's a shame, for in my own experience of snorkelling and diving along the length of the Great Barrier Reef since my first visit to the Whitsundays as a six-year-old in the 1980s, I've discovered that its southern fringe is no less spectacular than other sections. Less prone to extreme weather events such as cyclones and prolonged heatwaves, it can be argued this corner of the reef is also in better shape. United by a commitment to sustainability, its key tourism operators hope to keep it that way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Turtle swimming at Lady Elliot Island, Queensland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, amid \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gbrmpa.gov.au\u002Four-work\u002Fthreats-to-the-reef\u002Fclimate-change\u002Fsea-temperature\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epredictions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that climate pressures will force the Great Barrier Reef's marine life and seabirds to migrate south to escape global temperatures rising too fast for them to adapt to, could tourists follow? As Australia edges closer to reopening to the world, this corner of the reef has arguably never been so ready to roll out the welcome mat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA state-of-the-art pontoon with an underwater observatory that transforms into a 20-bed dormitory by night, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fladymusgraveexperience.com.au\u002Flady-musgrave-hq\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELady Musgrave HQ\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is the Southern Great Barrier Reef's newest attraction. Opened in September 2021, the three-level pontoon, which also has glamping on the upper deck, provides access to pristine dive sites beyond the locations previously available to day trippers (though as I recently experienced, the latter are still pretty impressive). Permanently moored in the lagoon surrounding Lady Musgrave Island, where the Queensland National Parks & Wildlife Service (QPWS) manages a campground, the Lady Musgrave HQ is now one of the Great Barrier Reef's most low-impact tourism experiences. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002Fcan-science-and-tourism-save-the-reef\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECan science and tourism save the reef?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200922-australias-forgotten-other-great-reef\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's forgotten other 'Great Reef'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002Fis-this-the-future-of-underwater-exploration\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this the future of underwater exploration?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The pontoon is essentially zero footprint,\" said owner-operator Brett Lakey, whose Bundaberg-based reef cruise business, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fladymusgraveexperience.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELady Musgrave Experience\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is carbon neutral. Built from the most eco-friendly materials available, the Lady Musgrave HQ runs entirely on solar and wind power, has its own desalinator, and all waste produced is transferred back to the mainland on the Reef Empress, a 35m catamaran that docks at the HQ by day. \"She's also rated to withstand a category three cyclone, which is hopefully more than we'll ever get down here,\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisitors also have the opportunity to give back to the reef through coral cultivation and citizen science programmes, and learn about reef conservation from the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fgidarjil.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGidarjil Bundaberg Sea Rangers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, part of the Queensland Indigenous Land and Sea Ranger Program, who regularly join Lady Musgrave Experience trips.   \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDives sites now accessible to Lady Musgrave HQ guests include the colourful coral gardens fringing Lady Elliot Island, the Great Barrier Reef's southernmost coral cay, where manta rays aggregate in the hundreds. Stripped bare by guano miners in the late 19th Century, then left to the goats, Lady Elliot Island has been painstakingly rehabilitated over the past 50 years, most notably by the Gash family, who have operated \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fladyelliot.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELady Elliot Island Eco Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E since 2005.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Humpback whale breaching near Lady Musgrave island","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWidely credited for setting the benchmark for sustainable island tourism in Australia, the family-friendly resort reached its 100% renewable goal in 2020 – no small feat for a 150-bed hotel in the middle of the ocean, some 80km from mainland Bundaberg.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2018, Lady Elliot Island was selected as the first \"climate change ark\" as part of the Great Barrier Reef Foundation's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.barrierreef.org\u002Fscience-with-impact\u002Freef-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReef Islands Initiative\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, designed to safeguard critical habitats from the impacts of climate change. Building on the Gash family's own tree-planting programme, an extensive revegetation project launched as part of the initiative is paying off in more ways than expected. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We initially started planting trees because it felt like the right thing to do, but now we're seeing changes on the reef,\" said the resort's managing director Peter Gash, who was awarded an Order of Australia Medal in 2020 for his service to ecotourism and aviation. \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-019-41030-6\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScientists have found\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that guano also works like a fertiliser for coral, so the bird life that the trees are attracting is helping the reef to flourish.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKey to preparing the island as an \"ark\", said project leader Dr Kathy Townsend, a marine biologist and senior lecturer at the University of the Sunshine Coast, is learning more about it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're currently creating a baseline species list so we know what's living here now,\" she said. \"This will help us to monitor 'thermal refugees' (marine life and birds escaping warmer temperatures further north) coming in as time goes on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Coral beach on Lady Musgrave Island, Queensland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe importance of the project – which island guests can assist with by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fleaftoreef\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Euploading photos of marine life and seabirds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the project's Facebook page – was magnified in 2020, when the Southern Great Barrier Reef experienced coral bleaching for the first time. Fortunately, affected corals in this region have largely recovered. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Southern Great Barrier Reef is very resilient and really healthy, and so it can tolerate these occasional types of events,\" said Townsend. \"Problems start occurring when these events happen with more frequency, which we've seen in other areas of the reef.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Southern Great Barrier Reef is very resilient and really healthy, and so it can tolerate these occasional types of events","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EReopened in late 2019 following a A$22m facelift, the Bundaberg region's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fparks.des.qld.gov.au\u002Fparks\u002Fmon-repos\u002Fattractions\u002Fmon-repos-turtle-centre\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMon Repos Turtle Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – which provides a critical habitat for endangered loggerhead turtles – is also implementing strategies to combat climate change impacts, such as rising temperatures, which can increase the ratio of female sea turtle hatchlings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Our hatchery areas are shaded, which can reduce the incubation temperature slightly,\" said Lauren Engledow, a ranger at the QPWS-managed facility, which runs tours during the summer nesting season. \"This also prevents the entire clutch from overheating, because turtles can die if they're too hot, and that's something we're starting to see with those increasing summer temperatures.\" Engledow added that the centre's research team is also assessing the effectiveness of artificial dune watering in increasing clutch success.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECurrently on track to achieve ECO Destination Certification (which recognises a region's commitment to sustainable practices) by the end of 2021, the mainland city of Bundaberg is an ideal base for exploring the Southern Great Barrier Reef gently, with a new glamping experience at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fsplittersfarm.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESplitters Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E providing a similarly low-impact alternative to the region's original eco-hotel, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fkellysbeachresort.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKellys Beach Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Bargara. Farm gate stalls burst with fresh produce, and other local attractions, including the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fmacadamiasaustralia.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBundaberg Rum Distillery and Macadamias Australia's visitors centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, opened in mid-2021, offer insights into sustainable farming and its connection with the health of the reef.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Manta ray and fish at Lady Elliot Island, Queensland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFurther north, in the Capricorn region, visitors can tour a marine research station and stay among a plethora of seabirds at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fheronisland.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHeron Island Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and glamp on neighbouring Wilson Island, which reopened as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwilsonisland.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ean eco-luxury retreat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2019.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith diesel-powered boats and more emissions-intensive planes and helicopters currently used to shuttle tourists to the Capricorn and Bunker Group due to its considerable distance from the mainland, visiting this area of the reef isn't without its sustainability challenges. But it's not only local operators who believe that tourism nonetheless plays an important role in helping to safeguard this natural wonder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The economic force of tourism helped to push the creation of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park over the line in the first place,\" said Townsend. \"And now, in the face of climate change, tourism provides a strong economic incentive to keep the reef alive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"section-header-textdescription\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Ftravel-journeys\"\u003ETravel Journeys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that transports you to some of the most breathtaking landscapes, far-flung locations and fascinating cultures on Earth.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-25T10:36:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"An extraordinary corner of the Great Barrier Reef","headlineShort":"Australia's reef that only 9% visit","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Reef and boats at Lady Musgrave Island, Southern Barrier Reef","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"23.9073","longitude":"152.3925","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Reef and boats at Lady Musgrave Island, Southern Barrier Reef","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A hub for marine life and sustainable tourism, the Southern Great Barrier Reef is having a moment.","summaryShort":"Will tourists follow the Great Barrier Reef's \"thermal refugees\"?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-24T22:37:13.661123Z","entity":"article","guid":"db74c996-aac0-485b-be6d-85525f613808","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:36:18.574896Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881481},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets","_id":"621e445445ceed6b6f3509c0","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Located a remote corner of the Great Sandy Desert, Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary is how the Outback used to look before European settlers arrived.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe road to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.australianwildlife.org\u002Fwhere-we-work\u002Fnewhaven\u002Fvisiting-newhaven-wildlife-sanctuary\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENewhaven Wildlife Sanctuary\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is an abrupt portal between two worlds. At one end of the road is Alice Springs, population 25,000, which is what counts in Outback Australia for an urban metropolis. At the other end are the isolated red-rock desert massifs, salt lakes and spinifex plains of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.environment.gov.au\u002Fsystem\u002Ffiles\u002Fresources\u002Fa8015c25-4aa2-4833-ad9c-e98d09e2ab52\u002Ffiles\u002Fbioregion-great-sandy-desert.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreat Sandy Desert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Australia's second-largest desert, covering more than 280,000sq km. One moment you're in town, sharing the tarmac with 50m-long road trains along the Stuart Highway. Then the traffic thins, and the road across the Tanami Desert narrows and turns to sand. All of a sudden, or so it seems, you're deep in the desert in the heart of the continent. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOpen for self-drive visitors at Easter, and from May to the end of September, Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary is known for its birdlife and the stark beauty of its desert landscapes. It is also what all of inland Australia once looked like.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09vwrkb.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I grew up out here in the desert where healthy country means trees and animals. It's my home.\"\u003Cem\u003E – Alice Ellis, Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary ranger\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhite settlers arrived in the Central and Western Deserts of Australia's interior – the Great and Little Sandy deserts and the Tanami, the Simpson and Victoria deserts – in the 19th Century. Before they did, indigenous Australians lived here in harmony with the land and with wildlife that was far more abundant than you might expect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is Warlpiri land, and it extends for hundreds of kilometres across the Tanami and Great Sandy Deserts. The Warlpiri are one of the largest nations and language groups among Aboriginal people. Along with the Pintupi, their neighbours to the west, the Warlpiri were among the last people in Australia to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fmagazine-30500591\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecome into contact with white Australia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and leave behind the traditional, semi-nomadic way of life that had enabled them to survive in the desert. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWarlpiri woman Alice Ellis belongs to the last generation who can remember what that life was like.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a child, she played in the sand dunes in the country north and west of here, moving with the seasons from one waterhole to the next. She and her family communicated with other groups through fire. When she was still young, she remembers, she and her siblings would run and hide whenever they saw white men coming in their vehicles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a process that the Warlpiri call \u003Cem\u003Eyidakimani\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or \"reading the country\", Ellis learned almost as soon as she could walk how to interpret and track the footprints of the macropod marsupials – including black-footed rock-wallabies, bettongs and bilbies – that you find only in Australia. They also hunted feral cats – \"pussy cats\" as Ellis calls them – as well as birds and reptiles; goanna, one of Australia's largest carnivorous reptiles, which can grow up to 2.5m long, was and remains her favourite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEllis brings that intimate knowledge of the natural world to her work at Newhaven, a 2,600sq-km sanctuary run by the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.australianwildlife.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralian Wildlife Conservancy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (AWC). As a ranger, she is a keeper of the desert's secrets. Her role is to care for country and to protect the land from the invasive pests that European settlers brought with them, pests like feral cats, foxes and rabbits that have wrought terrible destruction upon Australia's deserts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAustralia has the worst rate of mammal extinctions in the world: one-third of global mammal extinctions over the past five centuries have occurred in Australia, and most of these have been in the country's arid zone. No-one knows for sure, but a dozen, probably more, species that once lived alongside Ellis and her ancestors have disappeared forever. Cats wiped out most of them. Other species have retreated elsewhere, pushed by a plague of cats to the outer margins of their former ranges and to the edge of extinction.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Indigenous rangers at Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEllis knew many of these animals well. When she was a young girl, Ellis and her family used to hunt the mala, a tiny hopping macropod whose creation story began close to Newhaven; the mala's sacred sites remain but the mala itself disappeared from here in the 1980s. There was the greater bilby, otherwise known as \"Australia's Easter Bunny\", thanks to its large ears and its role as one of Australia's best-loved marsupials. Or the burrowing bettong that dug deep burrows and turned over the soil, earning the admiration of scientists who call it Australia's great ecosystem engineer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll of this matters for many reasons, not least among them this: 86% of Australia's 315 surviving land mammal species live nowhere else on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWho were the world's first bakers?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-joost-bakker-on-why-zero-waste-living-is-the-future\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe poster boy of zero-waste living\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's remarkable animal discovery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2006, with the scope of the extinction crisis in Australia's arid interior becoming clear, the AWC began an experiment: they wanted to see if the land in places like Newhaven could be returned to its original state. Ellis, and other Warlpiri rangers, led the way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor months, Ellis and her colleagues tracked down the feral cats within a 94.5sq km fenced enclosure that lies close to the sanctuary's headquarters and tourist campsite at the heart of Newhaven.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are many ways to track cats and other wildlife, but none have proved as effective as indigenous trackers. In the Warlpiri tradition of \"reading the country\", Ellis and the others understood cat behaviour. They knew where to find and follow cat footprints, then interpret what the tracks meant. How many cats were there? In which direction were they travelling? When did they pass? \"Indigenous trackers are much better than what we can do with live traps or cameras,\" said John Kanowski, AWC's chief scientific officer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the feral cats gone, an ambitious programme of mammal reintroductions began.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Conservation isn't just a matter of putting a line around a property and saying 'here's this ecosystem we've preserved',\" said Kanowski. \"You haven't achieved anything if you haven't got the critical animals back in there. The introductions complete the conservation journey for a particular piece of land.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBlack-footed rock wallabies and red-tailed phascogales, woylies and brush-tailed mulgaras all returned. And yes, the mala and burrowing bettong are also back where they belong, decades after the desert fell silent to their calls. Remarkably, the scientists hope that the bettongs may even return to the same burrows that their ancestors dug nearly half a century ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Bilby in Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary, Australia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor all such successes, there is a danger that the traditional knowledge of the desert people – the knowledge that makes such miracles possible – may soon be lost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Dr Rachel Paltridge, a scientist with extensive experience working with indigenous people across Central Australia, \"People just aren't going out tracking on foot like they used to do. Back when I started 20 years ago, there was still that older generation of people who grew up in the bush and all going out hunting on country for food.\" Only at Newhaven, and in the small Pintupi community of Kiwirrkurra a few hundred kilometres west across the desert, Paltridge says, do these tracking skills and practices survive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEllis knows that time is short. \"We won't be here forever,\" she said. \"If we don't pass on what we know, we lose everything and there will be nothing here for our children and grandchildren.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust as new generations of malas and burrowing bettongs are returning to the lands they once inhabited, a new generation of Warlpiri women are helping them get there. It was Ellis' daughter, Christine, who set some of the reintroduced mala and bettongs free at Newhaven.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We won't be here forever. If we don't pass on what we know, we lose everything and there will be nothing here for our children and grandchildren.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven when she was a young girl growing up in the desert, Christine's people called her \u003Cem\u003Emurturna\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"old woman\" in the Warlpiri tongue. While other children were out playing, Christine sat at the feet of her elders or went with them as they tracked and hunted animals. She joined them as they foraged for bush tomatoes and bush potatoes, learning the old ways as she went.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe also learned about the importance of fire. \"There is no healthy country without fire,\" she said, as she lit a match and set the country alight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Christine Ellis at Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When people were living traditionally on the land,\" said Steve Eldridge, a regional fire expert, \"they used fire as one of their main tools to stimulate growth, which brought in food – kangaroos, that sort of thing. Because they were such a nomadic nation of people, they were moving through the landscape constantly, always lighting fires, so you end up with this mosaic of fire ages [when a particular piece of land was last burned]. A lot of the native flora and fauna adapted to that regime. When there was this mosaic, just that in itself would stop these huge, fast wildfires from establishing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's not just Newhaven. The resumption of traditional fire practices here is part of a nationwide trend towards restoring the health of ecosystems through indigenous land-management practices. With fires doing their work, the land itself regenerates and the animals and plant life return. Newhaven is home to 23 desert ecosystems across its 261,501 arid hectares, and each ecosystem tells its own story.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn places, bloodwoods and ghost gums again play their role as shelters for returning native animals; nearby, the wind in the desert oaks sounds like waves on a distant ocean shore. Vast murmurations of bright-green budgerigars chase birds of prey, shape shifting like a single being careening across the sky. Out in the sanctuary's west, the salt lake that the Warlpiri call Yunkanjini (and which explorers named Lake Bennett) is both sacred site and a vast and beautiful place whose colour palette changes with the light. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is what the desert looked like when I was a little girl,\" said Alice. \"The country is healthy again.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Freasons-to-love-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E ---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-09-15T02:04:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The indigenous keepers of the Outback's secrets","headlineShort":"A remote world of 23 deserts","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Indigenous rangers at Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"22.4941","longitude":"131.0658","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Indigenous rangers at Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Located a remote corner of the Great Sandy Desert, Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary is how the Outback used to look before European settlers arrived.","summaryShort":"This is what all of inland Australia once looked like","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-14T19:45:29.813881Z","entity":"article","guid":"6a895c13-52f4-4bfa-99d9-2a3f276d247f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:34:10.752054Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881475},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth","_id":"621e445345ceed6b6a4f5f75","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdan-avila"],"bodyIntro":"Dating to around 3.6 billion years ago, the Pilbara region of Western Australia is home to the fossilised evidence of the Earth's oldest lifeforms.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abc.net.au\u002Fnews\u002Fscience\u002F2017-05-10\u002Fearly-life-on-land-in-3.5bn-year-old-hot-spring-in-pilbara\u002F8497594\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Escience has confirmed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E what Aboriginal Australians, the world's oldest continuous living culture, always knew: the Pilbara region of Western Australia is among the oldest places on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Pilbara began to form more than 3.6 billion years ago and its vast landscape of deep pindan reds and endless panoramas, which stretches from the west coast to the Northern Territory border, is an ancient, forbidding place. For those travelling to the region for the first time, the initial sense of space and solitude can be daunting: it's roughly double the size of Great Britain, but with a population of just 61,000, it is one of the most sparsely populated regions on Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc2yw9"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Kermits Pool, Karijini National Park","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe world's most ancient crust\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScientists have determined that the Pilbara's vast formations of iron-rich rock, formed prior to the existence of oxygen and life itself, is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41561-018-0105-9\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe best-preserved example of the world's most ancient crust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. While other global iron deposits are thought to have formed at a similar time, the surface of the Pilbara remains unburied and undisturbed by geologically cataclysmic events.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The unique thing about the Pilbara landscape is not just its age, but its incredible state of preservation,\" said Martin Van Kranendonk, professor of geology at The University of New South Wales, who has spent years mapping and studying the Pilbara.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc30hp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Fossilised Stromatolites of Marble Bar","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Earth's oldest lifeforms\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Van Kranendonk, Pilbara rock is so ancient that it contains no fossils within its structure, yet stromatolites, the fossilised evidence of the Earth's oldest lifeforms, are found upon it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1980, 3.45-billion-year-old fossil stromatolites were found near Marble Bar (pictured above) in the Pilbara. These microbial cyanobacteria communities first existed when conditions on Earth could not support any other form of life, building bulbous reef-like structures as they released oxygen through photosynthesis. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIncredibly, just south of the Pilbara at Hamlin Pool near Shark Bay, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe world's most extensive living stromatolites system is still thriving\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, even fizzing, as it produces oxygen in the hypersaline bay. This is one of just two places on Earth where living marine stromatolites exist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc330h"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Red landscape of the Pilbara with fossils in rock","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EExploring the\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E Red Planet\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2019, Nasa scientists conducted investigations in the Pilbara with Van Kranendonk to better prepare them for their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nasa.gov\u002Fcontent\u002Fnasas-journey-to-mars\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ejourney to Mars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Many of them had never personally seen evidence of ancient life and that's what they were going to Mars to look for,\" said Van Kranendonk. \"So, for them, it was really an eye-opening experience, to see and understand the details and texture of the fossilised stromatolites to get a better understanding of what signatures to look for as they search the surface of Mars for evidence of life.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than just its age, the chemical similarities of the rock composition mean the Pilbara is highly relevant to the scientists' preparation for the Mars mission. \"The composition of those rocks and the amount of iron in the Pilbara is amazing and similar to Mars,\" said Van Kranendonk, \"which is why it is known as the Red Planet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc30pw"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Layered rock formations at Hammersley Gorge, Karijini National Park","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAn underground surprise\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Pilbara can be unforgiving, extreme and sometimes dangerous for the ill-prepared. It is also hauntingly beautiful and captures the imagination of visitors from around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the area looks like semi-arid desert, within it is one of the world's most beautiful national parks. Carved out of the land by billions of years of slow erosion, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fparks.dpaw.wa.gov.au\u002Fpark\u002Fkarijini\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKarijini National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E's otherworldly splendour lies deep in its ancient gorges and sheer-sided chasms, where dramatic waterfalls and crystal-clear waterholes are set among the striated rock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor visitors, this is a paradise of cool rock pools fed by underground springs, lush vegetation and abundant wildlife. For scientists, the canyons at Karijini offer unparalleled access to naturally excavated cross sections of layered rock that reveal much about the Earth at the time this ancient land was formed. \"It is such a beautiful thing; those gorges allow you to look down through the layers of time,\" said Van Kranendonk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc30wp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Spa Pool, Hammersley Gorge","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA natural spa pool\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe permanent flowing waterfalls, waterholes and oases found here are made only more awe-inspiring given the conditions on the harsh Pilbara exterior.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike an ancient, secret cistern, Spa Pool has been hewn from the rock by the constant flow of water at the head of Hamersley Gorge. The bath-like formation is almost completely enveloped in multi-hued, smooth rock wall. The gentle burbling of the stream constantly replenishing the pool is the only sound in one of Karjini's most intimate hideaways.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc310m"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Karijini Eco Retreat","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAustralia's hidden secret\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe only accommodation in the national park is the indigenous-owned \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.karijiniecoretreat.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKarijini Eco Retreat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Early mornings at the retreat are special. The cool, predawn air is energising, and the low light filtered through suspended iron-rich dust saturates the landscape in colour before the full sun of the late morning washes away this intensity until sunset.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt night, when there is a confluence of clear skies and no moon, Karijini is a dark sky wonderland for stargazers and astro-photographers alike. The dry air and lack of light pollution provide for a dazzling display of detail in the Milky Way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Karijini is a unique and iconic Australian destination,\" said co-owner Marnie Shields, explaining that guests are often overcome by the beauty, accessibility and diversity of Karijini. \"While the magnificent region is being revealed to the rest of the world, it's still one of Australia's most spectacular hidden secrets.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc310w"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Massive Fig Tree, Dale Gorge, near Fern Pool","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA shocking world of contrasts\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Karijini guide Pete West, the stark shift in microclimate, fauna and flora shocks most visitors as they descend from the arid surface into the lush, verdant gorges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It becomes apparent very quickly that there's a distinct micro-environment in the gorges,\" he said. \"The flora is remarkably different from the surface, like melaleucas, which are the biggest trees in the Pilbara. You just don't get it on the surface, you only ever see them in creek beds. Then there [are] the delicate ferns, moss and the big leaf fig tree (pictured above). It's such a contrast, in and out of the gorge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe presence of permanent water in the gorges is the fundamental building block of the gorge microenvironment that supports fish, flying foxes and a range of predators taking advantage of the optimal conditions. The abundance of reptiles is astounding, from small desert dragons to pythons up to 5m in length.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc312c"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Fern Pool, Dales Gorge","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-50151344\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EImportant women's place\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKarijini is also a place of important cultural significance to indigenous people, with certain locations in the park recognised as women's-only places and others that are strictly for men. \"There are places, for instance, women would go if they wanted to get pregnant and places they would visit if they wanted to have twins,\" explained anthropologist Dr Amanda Harris, who has worked across the Pilbara with traditional owners.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFern Pool (pictured above), located in a terrarium-like environment at the genesis of Karijijni's Dale's Gorge, is an important women's place to the local Banjima people, yet unlike other indigenous destinations that prohibit interference, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-50151344\"\u003EUluru's climbing ban\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and a prohibition on photography at areas within the Kunku-Breakaways near \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191121-australias-subterranean-oasis\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECoober Pedy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Karijini traditional owners welcome all guests, asking only that visitors be respectful and walk lightly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc314r"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Mt Bruce, Karijini","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA place of respite\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScientists believe that the Banjima people and their forebears have been using Karijini, which means \"hilly place\" in local Aboriginal languages, as a meeting location for 30,000 to 40,000 years. Nomadic tribes of the Pilbara maintained life in a challenging environment with daily resource gathering essential for survival. Karijini offered a place of respite and security of resources, shelter and permanent water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Karijini is referred to by all the neighbouring tribes as a meeting place, as an ancient place where business is conducted, families get together, marriages are arranged, lore is passed. This still goes on today,\" said West.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMount Bruce (pictured above), Western Australia's second-tallest peak, stands at the entry to Karijini and holds both geological and indigenous significance. Known as Punurrunha to indigenous people, the mountain is a sacred site and highly significant in Aboriginal Law. To Banjima, this is strictly a male-only site, with some female elders refusing to even set eyes on the peak as they pass by. Visitors, however, are not restricted from photographing or even ascending to the summit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc32wk"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Sun setting on Karrijini, Pilbara","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAncestral knowledge\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Pilbara is still revealing new secrets about early conditions on Earth and the life of the region's first inhabitants. While new discoveries about how long the Pilbara has been continuously inhabited surprise scientists, to indigenous people, it is something they have always known.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because we know life, as a people we've always known [human] life started here,\" said Yindjibarndi and Ngarluma elder and indigenous Pilbara tour guide Clinton Walker. \"The world began here, everything began here. So, from our perspective, we've never believed we came from anywhere else except here and that we were created in this landscape by beings much more advanced than us, who also taught us all our knowledge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc31jh"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Pilbara tour guide Clinton Walker on red rocks in Pilbara","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERecords of extinct macropods\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEarlier this year, Walker was exploring at low tide and found ancient rock etchings that depict kangaroo footprints in the intertidal zone of the Pilbara's Burrup Peninsula. He believes this is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abc.net.au\u002Fnews\u002F2021-07-15\u002Ftour-guide-uncovers-underwater-rock-art\u002F100294428\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe first such underwater find of its kind anywhere in Australia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, garnering significant scientific interest. He explained that the current theory of origin is that this etching was likely made after the last ice age when the water levels were more than 100m lower, between 7,000 and 18,000 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWalker delights in showing guests local rock art containing important imagery such as extinct macropods (pictured above) and believes that many discoveries, both underwater and on land, are yet to be made.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's so funny, even when I'm doing tours, I'll still find lots of new rock art at the same places I have been many times,\" said West. \"But even the guests are finding things I haven't seen before either, you know. It's exciting for everyone.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc3240"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Deep gorge in the Pilbara with green shrubs on surface","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA magical place\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe magic of the Pilbara lies in its ancient roots. There are no crowds, fences, buildings or other impositions of modernity. Just a place as old as time and its custodians that welcome you to make your own journey of discovery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This place is for seekers, you know. For photographers, for artists, for painters, geologists, lovers of nature,\" said West. \"I see this in people that come to Karijini in particular. As you walk through those gorges, guaranteed you'll be running your hands along the oldest rocks you'll ever touch. When you think about this, our problems, our concerns, our ambitions are all almost irrelevant. It gives you a true sense of perspective. I think that's super cool.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth-24"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-27T10:19:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Is the Pilbara the oldest place on Earth?","headlineShort":"The oldest place on Earth?","image":["p0bc2yw5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-21.5921","longitude":"121.5237","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bc2yw5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210914-the-indigenous-keeper-of-the-outbacks-secrets"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Dating to around 3.6 billion years ago, the Pilbara region of Western Australia is home to the fossilised evidence of the Earth's oldest lifeforms.","summaryShort":"\"It's still one of Australia's most spectacular hidden secrets\"","tag":["tag\u002Fnature-outdoors","tag\u002Fnational-parks","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-26T21:47:38.9987Z","entity":"article","guid":"0d191ec0-b990-4b51-a060-aa9b1bdc8120","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:02.919794Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia-and-pacific"],"destinationStat":"australia-and-pacific_australia_australia-and-pacific","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881474},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses","_id":"621e445445ceed6b7d496970","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Until the 1900s, when people in Ireland got sick, they would get naked and disappear into steamy saunas. Now, a new project is aiming to uncover these timeworn structures' secrets.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENaked and sweaty, they laid inside grass-covered stone igloo-like structures in the remote fields of Ireland. Some were ill, others may have been having hallucinations, hatching plans to distil illegal alcohol or imagining they were the Vikings who once raided this country. By the time these addled folk emerged from the structures back into the fresh air of 19th-Century Ireland, they had been through a jarring mental and physical journey. One that still holds many mysteries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Some people reckoned the cure was worse than the disease,\" archaeologist Aidan Harte told me of this sweltering experience, as he stood atop a 150-year-old Irish sweathouse in Killadiskert, an isolated corner of County Leitrim. \"Part of the reason there's crazy theories about hallucinations and making alcohol is because we just don't fully know the truth about sweathouses and all their uses. They're a bit of a riddle that we're now trying to work out.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHarte is leading the new \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.leitrimcoco.ie\u002Feng\u002FCommunity-Culture\u002FHeritage\u002FArchaelogical-Heritage\u002FSweat-House-Project\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELeitrim Sweathouse Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with Leitrim County Council Heritage Officer Sarah Malone. Malone said their aim was to identify and demystify these timeworn structures, which are scattered across Ireland and were used as a sort of extreme stone sauna from the early 1600s to the early 1900s. She said they had so far recorded more than 100 sweathouses in Leitrim alone – more than anywhere else in Ireland, and a staggering concentration given that this tiny Greater London-sized county is home to fewer than 35,000 people. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor generations, most of these mysterious beehive-shaped structures have sat dormant and forgotten in Leitrim, a whisper-quiet, picturesque county in Ireland's north-west characterised by sprawling farms, petite towns and the kind of intensely green, hilly landscape that's inspired countless Irish poems. According to Harte, that's because many of the sweathouses are on properties owned by farmers who know little about them, other than them being impediments to agriculture. This is just the way it is in Ireland. Inhabited for more than 10,000 years, the nation is laden with so many archaeological sites that they can't all be pinpointed, probed and preserved. Now, the Leitrim Sweathouse Project is seeking volunteers to collate information and oral histories on this little-known aspect of Ireland's history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Sweathouses represent a little-known aspect of Ireland's history","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFortunately, Leitrim's stone mounds are still sturdy. Nothing shifted as I scaled the 2.2m-tall Killadiskert structure to earn striking views of the undulating farmland that surrounds it. \"It shouldn't cave in,\" Harte said, cheekily. \"Seriously though, these things were made to last.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce I stepped back onto the soggy earth, Harte ran his hand across the sweathouse's uneven surface as he explained its construction. As with the one in Killadiskert, most Irish sweathouses were built into hillsides or banks to bolster their foundation, and set in remote locations near a water source. Chunks of uncut rock, each a different shape and size, were carefully piled and then bonded with clay and sod to create a domed structure with a single low entrance, similar in appearance to an igloo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETurf or wood was lit inside the sweathouse, before its entrance and roof vent were blocked, Harte said. After a few hours, smoke would be released, the embers swept out and a naked person would crawl into the stifling space and sweat for as long as they could bear. Eventually, they would emerge to cleanse and cool themselves in the nearby stream. Sometimes their condition improved, Harte said. The sweathouse had unfurled its earthen magic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile sweating certainly has proven medical benefits – including helping to improve blood circulation and filter toxins out of the body – according to Dr Ronan Foley, a leading expert on Irish sweathouses from Ireland's Maynooth University, these naked sauna sessions were often nothing more than a placebo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201108-why-germans-love-getting-naked-in-public\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Germans love getting naked in public\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200728-croatias-pristine-isle-of-wellness\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECroatia's pristine isle of wellness\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191015-japans-most-remote-onsen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's most remote onsen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It would be very reasonable to assume the sweathouse cure did not work all the time or for all people, even for the conditions it was recommended for, so it was never a panacea in that sense,\" Foley said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet, in Ireland's isolated landscape, where modern medical facilities were few and far between, sweathouses remained popular for roughly 300 years. Foley said they were commonly used to treat rheumatism, arthritis, fevers and respiratory conditions, especially in rural areas like Leitrim, which is home to more than one-third of Ireland's identified sweathouses. By comparison, very few are located near the cities of Dublin, Cork and Limerick, which had far more sophisticated health services than Leitrim until recent decades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENot much has been documented about the historical use of sweathouses. But many Leitrim families have ancestral roots that stretch back centuries, and thanks to Ireland's strong tradition of oral history, many sweathouse myths survive. Harte said some Leitrim residents he'd interviewed believe sweathouses weren't just used to treat illnesses. According to some tales he'd heard, sweathouses were makeshift distilleries for circumventing Ireland's long ban on distilling \"\u003Cem\u003Epoitin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" moonshine. In another popular story, they once hosted drug-fuelled hallucination sessions aimed at connecting with the Celtic gods. Harte doesn't give much credence to these narratives, and has found no evidence to support them. But with so little known about sweathouses, he also said he also can't rule them out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAn even greater mystery than the use of sweathouses is their origin. According to Foley, there are four prevailing theories. One claims these structures can be traced to Scandinavia and the Vikings. Saunas have been used in northern Europe for more than 2,000 years, and Vikings had a major impact on Irish culture while occupying parts of the country between the 9th and 12th Centuries. Another theory posits they may have been imported from the US by returning Irish immigrants who'd studied Native American sweat lodges. Just as intriguing is the theory sweathouses were re-purposed \u003Cem\u003Efulacht fiadh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a type of ancient, outdoor Irish oven. Finally, some old antiquarian journals suggested the Irish creators of the sweathouse may have been inspired by seeing hammams while travelling in the Middle East, where the Islamic bathhouses have been used for more than a millennium.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"An even greater mystery than the use of sweathouses is their origin","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, none of these theories convince Foley. Instead, he believes Ireland's sweathouses emerged organically. \"I feel they were a sort of local variant of a global cultural production of sweating-cure places,\" he said. \"The healing value of sweating was well known. Building small buildings that induced sweating from local materials would have been sort of worked out by Irish rural dwellers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Ireland's ancient sweathouses are valuable artefacts of the country's rural history. Harte's project could even help these long-neglected structures become offbeat tourist attractions, according to Sarah McCarthy, a regional development officer for Fáilte Ireland, the country's national tourism body. \"We know that culture and heritage form a significant element of Ireland's appeal to overseas visitors,\" McCarthy said. \"The Leitrim sweathouses and the associated research project reveal a hidden part of our history and heritage, and add to the riches for the visitor to uncover.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHarte shares this hope. But as he bent down to peek into the tight opening of the Killadiskert sweathouse, he conceded most of these structures aren't yet ready to accommodate tourists. While tourists are able to gain direct access to the nearby sweathouses at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.leitrimireland.com\u002Flistings\u002Fit-is-located-just-before-the-village-of-ballinaglera-close-to-dowra-village-and-about-10-kilometres-from-drumshanbo-and-is-on-the-route-of-the-leitrim-way-walking-trail-st-hughes-sweathouse\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESt Hughes well\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fleitrimtourism.com\u002Fheritage\u002Fparkes-castle\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParke's Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Killadiskert sweathouse and many others are on private land. Even as an archaeologist, Harte hadn't always found it easy getting permission from landowners to visit other sweathouses. A key aim of the Leitrim Sweathouse Project is to gain greater public recognition and heritage protection for these structures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne day, Ireland's sweaty, naked saunas may be renowned, preserved and pinned to a tourist trail. For now, however, they remain enigmatic stone humps hidden in the emerald landscape, waiting for someone to unravel their secrets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-11T10:57:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The unearthing of Ireland's mysterious naked sweathouses","headlineShort":"Ireland's mysterious naked sweathouses","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"54.1247","longitude":"8.0020","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Until the 1900s, when people in Ireland got sick, they would get naked and disappear into steamy saunas. Now, a new project is aiming to uncover these timeworn structures' secrets.","summaryShort":"They're scattered across the country and testify to Ireland's steamy past","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-10T22:24:29.371729Z","entity":"article","guid":"7846a894-361d-4146-827d-983a934762bb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:35:31.746285Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881475},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary","_id":"621d1a3b45ceed17fa292836","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A team of volunteers is dedicating their lives to rescuing, rehabilitating and releasing one of Ireland's most famous and longest-standing residents.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESeals have inhabited Ireland's coastline for more than 7,000 years, and the country's native grey seals and common seals play a pivotal role in balancing the ocean's ecosystem. In the early 1900s, the animals nearly vanished from Irish seas due to overhunting, but since they received federal protection in 1976, their numbers have started to recover. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet, these days the animals face a host of new threats, from fishing nets and dwindling food supplies to climate change that warms their waters. But for more than a decade, the charity \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sealrescueireland.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESeal Rescue Ireland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has been rescuing, rehabilitating and releasing orphaned and sick seals from across the country in their Wexford, Ireland facility. Last year alone, they rescued 170 seals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoTitle":"VIDEO: Ireland's seal rescue heroes","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBBC's The Travel Show recently paid them a visit as they got ready to release one of their most famous residents yet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor more on this and other stories, watch\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravelshow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe BBC Travel Show\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E – every weekend on the BBC News Channel and BBC World News.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-03T20:26:39Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Ireland's inspiring seal sanctuary","headlineShort":"The heroes saving Ireland's seals","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"52.3369","longitude":"6.4633","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A team of volunteers is dedicating their lives to rescuing, rehabilitating and releasing one of Ireland's most famous and longest-standing residents.","summaryShort":"Seals have inhabited Irish waters for more than 7,000 years","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-02T20:27:05.946429Z","entity":"article","guid":"e66e133d-e3ee-47c5-bcc1-fcff665255b5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:42:15.491069Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881475},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","_id":"621d1a4245ceed44e627dae1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Just 30 permanent residents live on Foula, which lays claim to being Britain's most remote inhabited island and operates on a different calendar to the rest of the UK.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EI learned several new words during my time in Shetland, the distant island chain drifting between Scotland and Norway. One of them was \u003Cem\u003Eequinoctial\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. It means \"of or relating to the equinox\". It is frequently used to describe equinoctial gales, which can feel relentless this far north when the seasons change in spring and autumn. In a place as exposed to the elements as Shetland, they can be definitive; on its most distant island of Foula, they can act as a sort of gatekeeper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003E\"Things are likely to get pretty entertaining,\" said pilot Marshall Wishart as we boarded his BN-2B Islander to fly from the airport outside Shetland's largest town, Lerwick, to the airstrip on Foula, 31 miles west. Our departure had already been delayed by the gales for many hours and for a time the forecast said that no flying would be possible for several days. Instead, however, half-an-hours' notice was given to scramble to the airport and make a narrow weather window.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIn a year dominated by domestic travel, Foula has perhaps been the most extreme option available to Brits. Sometimes referred to as Ultima Thule – Latin bywords for extremely remote destinations – it is said to be the most remote inhabited British island, reached by an unpredictable ferry or the frequently hectic 17-minute flight from the Shetland Mainland. Travel due west beyond it and there is nothing but the tumultuous North Atlantic until the east coast of Greenland. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EOn the day I flew, the equinoctial gales were strong enough to decapitate any white horses forming below. By that point in early October, the island's ferry hadn't sailed for a couple of weeks and wasn't expected to try again for several more. This meant that the 30 or so permanent residents on the island depended wholly on the vagaries of light aircraft to bring them supplies. \"It could be like this until the next equinox really,\" said Sheila Gear, Foula resident of almost 60 years. \"It's only really late April or May that the wind finally stops. You have to be well-stocked, but you're used to it if you live here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Foula sheep lying on grass","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003ENonetheless, there is a limited amount of tourism, with just two guest houses – \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.selfcateringfoula.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Burns\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitscotland.com\u002Finfo\u002Faccommodation\u002Fristie-self-catering-p1502271\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERistie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – and a few camping sites providing accommodation. The majority of visitors are birders, drawn here by the tens of thousands of birds that make this blustery island home over summer. Otherwise, Foula offers few distractions for those not interested in the outdoors: there is no wi-fi, no pubs or bars, not even a shop to buy basic supplies. Visitors must bring everything with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003ETo some people this is a surprise, but it is not the only one on Foula. Before making the long journey north, I asked some Shetlander friends what to expect. Not only had none of them been before, but they also didn't even know anyone who had.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210915-a-british-beast-rarer-than-the-panda\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA British beast rarer than the panda\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK village that lost its cheese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA small Scottish isle with a big story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIf outsiders know anything at all about the island it is likely to be that the residents still adhere to a version of the Julian calendar, having refused to change to the more modern Gregorian calendar in line with the rest of the country in 1752. They may also know that this was the last place in the United Kingdom to speak a Norse language, Norn. However, they may not be aware that the reason the language finally died out was because of a pandemic – not Covid-19, but smallpox, lethal waves of which washed over the island in the 18th Century, killing the majority of residents. When Foula was repopulated by English-speaking Shetlanders, Norn was lost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EMany of the words that endure today are names of seabirds. There are maalie (northern fulmars), tystie (guillemots), solan gos (gannets) and many more besides. Above them all, stands the great skua, or bonxie as it's known locally. The huge, brown gull-like birds can be difficult creatures to love.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EEven Gear, who has spent most of her life around them, finds their characteristics to be challenging, bordering on disgusting. \"The real problem is that fishing boats discarding catch has created an artificially high population, beyond what the natural ecosystem can support,\" she told me, between bonxie stories too upsetting to repeat here. \"Where's that going to end? It's not sustainable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"House with sea stack behind in Foula, Shetland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EThe bonxie has no claws with which to kill its prey. It does, however, have the instincts of a predator, meaning it must use its barbed beak to pitilessly peck at its victims. Lambs are not safe, and even Shetland pony foals can be targeted. One night I saw a dead rabbit on the side of Foula's only significant road; by morning, great skuas had disassembled it to something unrecognisable. The smaller Arctic skua (skooty aalin) is hardly a shrinking violet itself, but even it loses chicks to the bonxies. The island's sturdy crows may have larger brains and a reputation for similarly callous behaviour, but they too give way to the piratical bonxies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EYet even these screaming brigands can't face Foula in winter, instead flying south to Africa to scavenge, rob and kill on a whole new continent before returning in spring. \"For all I've said about them,\" continued Gear, as though trying to strike a conciliatory tone, \"we're still really glad to see them come back each time. They're part of life here and we're fond of them, even if we're not so fond of their behaviour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EBirds aside, there is extraordinary beauty on Foula, too. The majority of the settlement is on the east side of the island, sheltering from the most violent of the North Atlantic's furies. Disparate farms are surrounded by peat moss bogs that are dutifully patrolled by mismatching Foula sheep and Shetland ponies. While these scenes can look pretty, especially with the island's satisfying ruddy hills in the background, the north coast is significantly more beautiful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIt's there that Garda stands, a hulking three-pronged sea stack under constant attack from the ocean. The same is true nearby at the sensational Da Kame, the site of most of Foula's birds' nests. They have picked an exceptionally scenic spot; among the highest cliffs in Europe, this vast avian city looks especially dramatic at day's end when the sun's dying rays bounce off its mighty walls as waves crash in below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EThe granite landscape does a lot better here than metal – salty gales eat at vehicles, meaning they rarely last more than a few years. Up and down the road, I saw abandoned cars stripped to skeletons by the elements. When I took a walk to the island's graveyard, I found that the same wind had feasted on headstones, leaving most of them unreadable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Coastline of Foula, Shetland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EI explained to Gear that while I thoroughly enjoyed my time on her island, I had no notion to move there. I would wilt in the face of its challenges. \"It can be a difficult place, especially in winter,\" she replied with a slight chuckle. \"There's the darkness and the continual wind and rain. Just going outside can be very difficult, and yet you can grow to miss it. The first time I went abroad was to Madeira and I found myself missing the weather. It was ridiculous.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EA hard island for hard people and even harder birds. Magnus Holbourn, owner of the Burns cottage, summed it up on one especially windy morning. \"This is not a place where humanity is in the ascendency,\" he said. \"It's just clinging on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-09T20:41:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Foula: Britain's most remote inhabited island","headlineShort":"Britain's most remote inhabited island","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Cliffs and sea at Foula, Shetland","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"60.1313","longitude":"2.0695","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Cliffs and sea at Foula, Shetland","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Just 30 permanent residents live on Foula, which lays claim to being Britain's most remote inhabited island and operates on a different calendar to the rest of the UK.","summaryShort":"Only around 30 permanent residents live on Foula","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-08T20:42:48.491631Z","entity":"article","guid":"f0feb26a-d291-45df-a4fb-ece8fa8711a8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:42:20.162684Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881475},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park","_id":"621e445545ceed6b8462ccb2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fyvonne-gordon"],"bodyIntro":"Ireland's biggest wilderness is undergoing a rewilding programme to allow its bog and forest to return to their natural state, even if much of the land has always been wild.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStanding on top of Correen More hill in the middle of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wildnephinnationalpark.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWild Nephin National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in County Mayo, you can see miles and miles of uninterrupted bogland, a carpet of orange and brown stretching into the distance across ridges, up over hills and down along valleys dotted with forests and lakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo the west, from this 285m-high lookout point, the views stretch all the way to the Atlantic Ocean, to the grey-blue of Bellacragher Bay and further on to the pointy dark peak of Slievemore Mountain on Achill Island, 32km away as the crow flies. To the north is Bellacorick wind farm, 16km away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBetween here and there is a wilderness that looks untouched. There are no roads, no buildings, no telegraph wires, no houses or villages, visible in any direction. The land is empty, and one of Ireland's six national parks, named Wild Nephin after the Nephin Beg Mountain range, this is said to be the loneliest. Some even say it contains Ireland's loneliest place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt does not feel bleak or desolate though, thanks to the warm reds and golds of the bog. In the distance, patches of green forest carpet the sides of a valley and nearby lakes look like tiny puddles, reflecting the sky. Underfoot, the bogland is grassy, mossy and wet, and rocky in some parts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bk8qkq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Landscape of brown and green rolling hills","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECounty Mayo is one of the most westerly parts of Ireland's Atlantic coast. Go 1km from Newport village, and there's a turn off the N59 (signposted for Furnace) which brings you onto the road to Letterkeen, where there's an entrance to Wild Nephin. As civilisation falls away, there's a feeling of driving into the middle of nowhere, as I found when I followed this road along the edge of Lough Feeagh while the sun lit up Ben Gorm mountain behind it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Irish landscape sometimes has a magical, mischievous air, and this day was no exception as a rainbow appeared right in the middle of the road. I drove on over bumps and hills, following the twists and bends. Around one, a pretty stone house with a brown and white cat sitting outside appeared, like something from a children's fairytale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt Letterkeen, at the end of the road that narrows to a gravel trail, I came to a small stone bothy (a small hut that serves as a shelter) and carpark. There was nobody around – and no phone signal. It felt a bit eerie. An information panel about Wild Nephin Wilderness outlined how the area will in time become truly wild.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is Ireland's biggest wilderness, which is undergoing a rewilding programme to allow the bog and forest go back to their natural state even if much of the land has always been wild. Wet and boggy, it was unsuitable for tillage, and the lack of shelter meant it was hard on livestock too, although it's been grazed by sheep since the mid-1800s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bk8vn5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A sheep looks up from grazing in wet land","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was Irish naturalist Robert Lloyd Praeger who described the Nephin Beg mountains in 1937 as \"the very loneliest place in this country, for the hills themselves are encircled by this vast area of trackless bog\", and little seems to have changed since then.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com.au\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FThe_Way_That_I_Went.html?id=Tcj_nQEACAAJ&redir_esc=y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Way That I Went\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Praeger described this area as a houseless and roadless 200 square miles of \"nothing but brown heather\", but found the place \"not lonely or depressing but inspiriting\". He wrote, \"You are thrown at the same time back upon yourself and forward against the mystery and majesty of nature, and you may feel dimly something of your own littleness and your own greatness…\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESomeone who also finds the landscape full of spirit is Michael Chambers, head guide at Wild Nephin National Park, who grew up in the townland of Srahmore on the southern edge of the park. We met at the bothy at Letterkeen, which is named the Robert Lloyd Prager Centre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven before he worked here, Chambers spent years exploring every inch of the land, looking for places he'd heard about in childhood stories and discovering some of its extraordinary secrets. As we crossed the rushing Altaconey River and walked past knee-deep heather along the banks, Chambers told me that he loves how you can reconnect with nature here. \"As you go into the park, there's no evidence of man's impression on the landscape. It's a natural landscape, left intact, where you can become one with the natural world around you,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You are thrown at the same time back upon yourself and forward against the mystery and majesty of nature – Robert Lloyd Praeger","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the landscape seems empty, beneath the surface are layers of history and stories so fascinating they sometimes leave shivers. From Letterkeen, the Bangor Trail runs 26km to the town of Bangor Erris, following an ancient path where drovers moved livestock between there and the town of Newport. The full 40km trail dates back to at least the 16th Century and is older than many of the surrounding villages.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExperienced hikers describe the trail as one of Ireland's most challenging, with shin-deep soggy bogland, streams and hills – and no exit route. In the past, as roads were built, the trail became disused, so conditions deteriorated. But as well as stories of wet gear, there are darker tales.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChambers told local stories of highwaymen along the trail; for example, the story of a young girl returning from selling cattle at the market, who was murdered. The robbers could not find her money but later, when her family was laying her out for the funeral, they found she'd hidden it in the bun of her hair. Her ghost is said to wander the trail.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are remains of old cottages, some abandoned during \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fm0003rj1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Great Hunger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the famine of 1845-1852, when many tenants were evicted, plus old famine graves – mass graves of people who lost their lives along the Bangor Trail while walking to the town of Westport to catch a boat to emigrate across the Atlantic to America.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen he was young, Chambers heard stories from his father and grandfather of caves sheltering rebels in 1921 during the War of Independence. He was always looking out for the caves, and on a walk in 2016, he followed a fox and found a cave on Ben Gorm that had human remains from the Neolithic period 5,600 years ago. Carbon dating showed it was a ritual site used for more than 1,000 years to prepare bodies for the afterlife (the remains are still being studied and will later go to the National Museum).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bk8qwz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Man in blue jacket walks right along a river","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe national park was established in 1998 originally as Ballycroy National Park, and in 2009, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wildnephinnationalpark.ie\u002Fvisit-us\u002Fvisitor-centre\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evisitor centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was built at Ballycroy, with an exhibition on the park's habitat and species. There's a 2km looped trail at the centre, but the main body of the park starts 3km to the east and stretches more than 15,000 hectares past the Nephin Beg mountains, taking in the 721m Slieve Carr, said to be Ireland's most remote mountain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe park was extended when 4,000 hectares of commercial forest (called Nephin Forest) was taken over in 2017 and was renamed Wild Nephin National Park a year later. Since then, around 10,000 native trees have been planted – including sessile oak, birch, rowan, alder, poplar and native Scots pine – which would have covered the area 4,000 years ago, before a wetter climate and more rainfall led to the formation of the bogs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe park's Owenduff bog is one of the last intact active \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.irishbogrestorationproject.ie\u002Fabout_bogs.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eblanket bogs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E left in Western Europe. Bogs like these are important in the battle against climate change because they store so much carbon. In the past, forestry drained huge areas, releasing the carbon and leading to flooding. The conservation plan to rewild the bogs back to their natural state includes removing the conifers and blocking up the drains to keep the wetlands wet and the carbon stores intact.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOvergrazing of sheep also damaged the vegetation. Chambers said there is evidence that the vegetation is recovering and attracting wildlife again. Birds like the golden plover and red head grouse are once more nesting these sites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe saw a red deer on our walk. The area is attracting native animals like the pine marten, cait crann in Irish (tree cat), plus field mice, otters, badgers and foxes. Birds include finches, sand martins, dippers, dunnocks, swallows and cuckoo. In winter, whooper swans and white fronted geese come to feed. There are herons and ducks, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There's no phone coverage. You have that in-nature remote experience, which is fantastic","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocal hiker Rosanna Loftus from Crossmalina said she started hiking in the park on the Letterkeen looped trails (6km, 10km and 12km) and then worked up to the Bangor Trail. \"It's absolutely beautiful in the park,\" she said. \"You just get lost in your thoughts. There's no phone coverage. You have that in-nature remote experience, which is fantastic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELoftus said that meeting others in the park is so rare that people stop and chat when they do – however, she didn't meet anyone else on the Bangor Trail, even on a sunny July day. She loves that it's not crowded like some other parks. \"It's a blessing to have, you have peace of mind and quiet to just enjoy it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother local hiker, Trish Reddington from Castlebar, said her first experience of the park was a three-day trek on the Bangor Trail while studying outdoor education.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was amazing. We stayed in the bothy and we camped out the second night. We were eaten alive by midges, we got drowned wet and fell into bog holes, but it was the best experience ever,\" she told me. \"It wasn't until then that I realised this wilderness was out there. When you get there, you feel like you're far away from everything and everyone. It's just so remote, the fact that you can go in there and just walk for 10 hours and not meet anybody. When you really get into the national park, you don't hear the outside world, you just hear nature.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bk8r5p"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Far out hills under a cloudy sky","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECamping is allowed in designated spots in the park; as well as the bothy, there are two mountain meitheals (open wooden shelters). Also, the park is rebuilding some stone herders houses along the Bangor Trail and the Western Way (a 124km trail that partly runs through the park) so people can stay overnight. It's planned that around three of these will be ready to open this year, and on a clear night, the park is the perfect spot to admire the stars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe night sky is so unpolluted by light that it is home to Mayo Dark Sky Park, one of the world's few Gold Tier dark sky parks – meaning certain phenomena like the Milky Way and faint meteors are visible. There are three official dark sky viewing points – the most remote is at the Robert Lloyd Praeger Centre – and there are plans for an observatory and planetarium in the future. During a night winter lantern guided walk, Georgia MacMillan, the Dark Sky Park's development officer, explained how constantly being exposed to artificial light (even from streetlights) negatively affects our circadian rhythms and also impacts wildlife and biodiversity. And while the night sky views are amazing, even on a cloudy night, you might have a divine experience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The park is called after the Nephin Beg mountain range, which means heaven and heavenly,\" said Chambers, referring to the Irish word, néifinn. \"The Nephin Beg mountains are my little piece of heaven.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter called \"The Essential List\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-26T18:58:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Ireland's loneliest wilderness, Wild Nephin National Park","headlineShort":"Ireland's loneliest wilderness","image":["p0bk8q9n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A stream trickles between two hills with mountains in the background","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"54.0244585","longitude":"-9.8233278","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"A stream trickles between two hills with mountains in the background","promoImage":["p0bk8q9n"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211010-the-unearthing-of-irelands-mysterious-naked-sweathouses","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211202-irelands-inspiring-seal-sanctuary","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Ireland's biggest wilderness is undergoing a rewilding programme to allow its bog and forest to return to their natural state, even if much of the land has always been wild.","summaryShort":"There are no roads, no buildings, no telegraph wires","tag":["tag\u002Fhiking","tag\u002Fremote","tag\u002Fwildlife"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-25T22:18:21.81359Z","entity":"article","guid":"80302149-9c8e-4f56-97dd-4a9a38a2dbe2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:57.678636Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fireland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_ireland_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881475},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink","_id":"621e445945ceed69de4d801e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Mixing Indian, Chinese and British influences, teh tarik embodies Malaysia in a glass and has long helped bring the diverse nation together.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn arc of piping-hot tea streamed high above my head as the waiter poured the frothy concoction from one tin cup to another, increasing the distance with each pass. In an act that seemingly defied physics, he angled the stream further over my table and channelled the miniature waterfall flawlessly into my glass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELooking up from the tableside spectacle across the smoky room, I noticed the other diners around me: a young Indian family returning from the temple across the street; a meeting of sleek-looking bankers hunched over spreadsheets; Muslim students wearing traditional \u003Cem\u003Esongkok\u003C\u002Fem\u003E hats; and a few uniformed street cleaners taking a break from their morning work. It was as if a microcosm of Malaysia was summoned here, drawn by the allure of this bubbly drink.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETeh tarik\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or \"pulled tea\" in Malay, is commonly drunk in Southeast Asia, but it's the unofficial national drink of Malaysia, where it was invented. It's a relatively simple mixture of strong black tea, condensed milk and ample sugar, and if you wander through any Malaysian city at any time of day, you'll spot locals of all backgrounds crowded around plastic tables outdoors, sipping mugs of the mocha-coloured drink while chatting about anything and everything.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach family-run stall has their own closely guarded recipe, and the quality of teh tarik is measured by its \"pull\", a theatrical display that aerates the liquid, enhances its deep flavour and helps it develop its quintessential froth that sets it apart from any other tea. Whoever can master this feat becomes a local celebrity with a devout following.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Teh tarik is something that can connect people from different races, cultures and religions","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile its sweet, earthy taste is reason enough for teh tarik's popularity, its cultural significance runs much deeper, and the drink is essentially a metaphor for the country's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estrong sense of tolerance and diversity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Malaysia, we have had many years to familiarise ourselves with living in a multicultural society,\" said Salma Nasution Khoo, an author and social activist from Penang. \"[Despite our differences] everyone is aware of the importance of reverting to a state of equilibrium and mutual respect.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust as Malaysia is a cultural melting pot of indigenous Malay, Chinese, British and South Indian influences, teh tarik is a liquid fusion of its cultures and customs. Black tea was first introduced by the Chinese in the 1830s; the craft of pulling was developed by South Indian street cooks after 1850, and milk and sugar were introduced nearly 100 years later during the end of British colonialism (1867-1957). Because many of the country's cultures contributed to the creation of teh tarik, most Malaysians, regardless of ethnicity, feel attached to it today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Teh tarik is something that can connect people from different races, cultures and religions,\" said Mohd Azmi, a cartoonist, author and ex tea puller from George Town. \"We can all still sit together in one place, have the same drink and briefly ignore our differences.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI first heard about this tea while in Singapore with Khim Fam, a close friend from Kuala Lumpur. While eating at a Malaysian food stall, he handed me a cup of teh tarik, exclaiming, \"This is my entire country in one glass.\" Perhaps it was my training as an anthropologist, or just my body craving the sugar, but as Fam described the history of the tea, I was enamoured and knew that I needed to learn – and taste – more. A few months later, we sat in the front seats of Fam's car, bouncing down a jungle-covered highway on the start of a 10-day road trip across Malaysia following the trail of teh tarik and its important place in the nation's history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOur journey began in the coastal city of Malacca, known for its bustling night markets and brightly painted buildings overlooking the Malacca Straight. It was near here that the Portuguese colonised the region 1511, followed by the Dutch in 1641 and eventually the British, who took control in 1824. In addition to subjugating local Malays, each newcomer also contributed to a butterfly effect of cultural exchange that would eventually shape the country we see today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInterestingly, the origins of Malaysian tea and the invention of teh tarik find their roots in the rubber industry. In 1877, the director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nparks.gov.sg\u002Fsbg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESingapore Botanic Garden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Henry Nicholas Ridley, imported the first rubber tree from Brazil and British Malaya quickly became the world's largest producer of rubber, relying on imported labour from China and South India to manage tens of thousands of trees. These South Indian immigrants, mostly from Chennai, brought with them a lively enterprise of selling pulled chai, which at the time, was served without milk and made from Chinese black tea. As the Indian-spiced tea became increasingly popular among rubber plantation workers, factory chai stands evolved from a place to find a quick drink to a refuge where vendors, known as \u003Cem\u003Emamaks\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"uncle\" in Tamil), welcomed tired labourers to relax and talk amongst friends. Here, the first hints of teh tarik had begun to simmer, but it would be decades before the next piece of teh tarik's origin story began to brew in the mountainous rainforest of central Malaysia. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter Malacca, we drove north into the mountains of the Cameron Highlands and the landscape changed. Flat fields of oil palms gave way to dense tropical jungle where batik-style bamboo houses peeked out of the foliage and rusty road signs warned of tigers in the area. Suddenly our view transformed as tropical ferns were replaced by fields of perfectly manicured tea bushes. As we drove through small villages of English Tudor-style houses and shops, the British influence across the highlands was unmistakable. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMalaysia's humble 'king of noodles'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYaupon: The rebirth of America's forgotten tea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210901-putrajaya-the-capital-city-youve-never-heard-of\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPutrajaya: The capital city you've never heard of\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200630-why-are-the-japanese-so-resilient\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFifty years after South Indian merchants first began hawking tea at Malaysian rubber factories, British-born businessman Archibald Russell discovered that the highlands of Central Malaysia were a perfect environment for growing tea. Russell imported plants from China and founded the first Malayan tea plantation in the late 1920s. Malayan tea production rapidly expanded to serve the international market, even withstanding a bloody guerrilla campaign in the region during World War Two. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the area rebuilt its economy after the end of Japanese occupation in 1945, demand for fine Malayan tea was so high that local chai sellers could no longer afford to buy the high-grade leaves from the nearby plantations. They turned to \u003Cem\u003Esarabat, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe lowest quality dust and fragments left over from processing, which was much more affordable but had an astringent taste. Adopting the British practice of adding milk and sugar to their brew, South Indian merchants turned to condensed milk to mask the tea's bitterness. Out of desperation and creativity, teh tarik was born. Next, it needed somewhere to grow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe seaside city of George Town, a historical trading port and the largest city on Penang Island, is considered by many Malaysians to be where teh tarik exploded in popularity shortly after World War Two. Strolling through its streets is like a whistle-stop tour of Malaysia itself: towering minarets sit next to brightly painted Hindu statues that sit opposite Buddhist temples. It's a cohesive jumble of diversity, and the perfect place for a drink born from multiculturalism to thrive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Teh tarik is taken very seriously here,\" said Fam, as we drove over the bridge connecting the mainland to Penang. \"If Malaysia is its home, this is its heart.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the city is arguably the best place to sample the tea, and it can be tasted at some of the country's most renowned mamak stalls and roti shops, like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FHeritage-Transfer-Road-Roti-Canai-1118587961632671\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoti Canai Transfer Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fwatch\u002F?ref=search&v=646812010031438&external_log_id=a5dd93f1-e960-4a2a-8067-5f081b475759&q=Roti%20Canai%20Jalan%20Argyll\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoti Canai Jalan Argyll\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FPiala.TTAM.Battle.of.Teh.Tarik\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMalaysia's only tea-pulling competition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which was originally born in Penang and now attracts thousands of spectators to the island and other rotating venues each year. As we drove into the Little India neighbourhood near Queen, Chulia and Market streets, I could see tea being majestically pulled on every street corner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the story of teh tarik may culminate in the cafes and stalls of George Town today, its story and impact on Malaysian culture is far from over. The drink has recently experienced a new wave of popularity as a symbol for navigating conflict. Stemming from its historical ability to unify disparate groups, organisations throughout Malaysia have begun hosting \"Teh tarik sessions\" in which participants identify common ground and embrace diversity to discuss important issues – much as they would in mamak stalls. The meetings have since been utilised by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fevenesis.com\u002Fonline-events\u002Fevent\u002Fopen-teh-tarik-session-empowering-young-minds-through-leadership\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eschools\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and nonprofits to facilitate conversations among students, and even by the national government \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thestar.com.my\u002Fnews\u002Fnation\u002F2021\u002F11\u002F30\u002Fresolve-differences-with-deputy-minister-over-teh-tarik-session-azalina-tells-mp\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eto resolve political impasses\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Multiculturalism is the future of all cities and countries,\" said Khoo, \"and in the words of anthropologist AB Shamsul, this is an era of 'talk conflict and walk cohesion'.\" In other words, people must learn to get along in order to cope with the changing world, and teh tarik might just be able to show us how.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince my return from Malaysia, I have often found myself reminiscing about the important lessons that teh tarik can teach. When the news gets depressing or the state of global affairs seems too polarised to reconcile, I find comfort in opening my carefully horded bag of Malaysian black tea and pouring a sweet cup of the soothing beverage. While I've never quite mastered the pull, I can still create a few encouraging bubbles, which remind me that sometimes all it takes is one small commonality and a spoonful of condensed milk to bring people back together.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-05T10:08:56Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Teh tarik: Malaysia's frothy 'national drink'","headlineShort":"The frothy drink that unified a nation","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"3.1390","longitude":"101.6869","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Mixing Indian, Chinese and British influences, teh tarik embodies Malaysia in a glass and has long helped bring the diverse nation together.","summaryShort":"Pouring it is a theatrical, gravity-defying display","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-04T21:09:48.049814Z","entity":"article","guid":"7fafffbc-2e86-44b1-a3c5-60b19dccc231","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:39:37.652102Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881476},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome","_id":"621e445745ceed69ea633be0","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Tunis is bursting with the creative energy of a generation taking full advantage of its newfound freedom of expression and fervour for preserving its heritage in unexpected ways.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe wait for admission to the Colosseum was approximately three and a half hours. The queue was so long that I initially mistook it for the line leading into the Palatine Hill, as I couldn’t even see the Colosseum when I joined the end of it. It was pouring rain and bitter cold in the middle of May, yet scores of soggy tourists were huddled alongside me in technicolour rain ponchos waiting for the chance to pay \u003Cem\u003E€\u003C\u002Fem\u003E12 (around £10) to be herded into the great arena like wild animals before a gladiatorial hunt. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat was when it struck me: in about as much time as it would take to wait in that queue, I could ride the metro to Rome’s airport, hop an 80-minute flight to Tunis and catch a cab 15km to Carthage, where, for a mere 12 Tunisian dinars (£3.30) I could be blissfully alone with equally impressive relics of Roman engineering and architecture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELater that week, I decided to give it a try.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETunisia has suffered a crisis of reputation over the past decade after the revolution that ousted president \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-africa-49752876\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EZine al-Abidine Ben Ali\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2011 threw the country into turmoil and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-middle-east-16212447\u002Fhow-the-arab-spring-began\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebegan the broader Arab Spring\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. What had once been a regular haunt for holidaymakers and European artists and intellectuals (Paul Klee, Michel Foucault and Simone de Beauvoir all spent extended stays here) suddenly seemed fierce and untouchable. Those that did venture here often did so in the insulated safety of all-inclusive package tours, which kept them in the close confines of seaside sanctuaries like the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.movenpick.com\u002Fen\u002Fafrica\u002Ftunisia\u002Fsousse\u002Fhotel-sousse\u002Foverview\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMövenpick resort and spa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Sousse.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETunisia’s reputation was further damaged by a pair of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-africa-33394847\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eterror attacks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2015 at the height of ISIS’s international campaign that roiled the country and prompted a major overhaul of anti-terrorism initiatives. The UK government still suggests tourists exercise caution in the region, but \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gov.uk\u002Fforeign-travel-advice\u002Ftunisia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enotes that\u003C\u002Fa\u003E “The Tunisian government has improved protective security in major cities and tourist resorts.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200105-the-most-inviting-city-in-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe most inviting city in Africa?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190723-colombias-buzzing-comeback-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouth America's coolest comeback city\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200113-the-shipwreck-that-forever-changed-south-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe shipwreck that created a country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite this bump on the road to democracy, now more than ever is the perfect time to visit the Tunisian capital, and to do so on your own terms. The country has emerged from the Arab Spring with a functioning democracy, a stabilising economy and a hunger for tourism. It’s currently the only Arab nation with freedom of expression, and the capital buzzes with young people expressing new ideas through concerts, political rallies, art shows and film festivals, which just a decade earlier would have been impossible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere are still ancient Roman and Punic ruins to explore, beaches to enjoy and incredible arts and crafts to bargain for, all unencumbered by crowds. What’s most exciting is that Tunis is bursting with the creative energy of a generation taking full advantage of its newfound freedom of expression and fervour for preserving its heritage in new and unexpected ways.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne of the locals leading this charge is Leila Ben Gacem, a social entrepreneur who is committed to saving local crafts and artistry that were at risk of disappearing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When people travel, they want a story, they want to be part of something,” Ben Gacem told me over a plate of roasted lamb and aubergine in the elaborately tiled courtyard of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.darbengacem.com\u002Fdar-ben-gacem-kahia\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDar Ben Gacem Kahia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of two medieval homes in the vibrant medina of Tunis that she has painstakingly renovated into guesthouses over the last decade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When people travel, they want a story, they want to be part of something","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBen Gacem knows a story when she sees one. After a career working as an engineer around Europe and North Africa, she grew sceptical of foreign investment and development and returned to Tunisia in 2013 to see if she could encourage economic growth by preserving cultural heritage rather than replacing it. She spent months seeking out and listening to the stories of hundreds of artisans in Tunis’ \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F36\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage-listed Medina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – shoemakers, perfumers, woodworkers, bookbinders, milliners, weavers – and founded a leading grassroots organisation, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbluefish.me\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlue Fish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, to help them keep their businesses afloat and their crafts alive.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne way to do that: bring the buyers to them. “Our local market is too small to preserve our arts and crafts,” she told me. But by restoring historic homes as guest houses, she’s brought thousands of visitors from around the world into the workshops and storefronts of the Medina’s artisans. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“At first the artisans didn’t understand why people wanted to see their workshops or watch them make hats or slippers,” she said, but now it’s become a symbiotic relationship. Guests receive a customised map with the locations of dozens of workshops and shops full of handmade leather goods, rugs, perfumes and treasures that make for very happy hunting in the warren of souks. As a result, they seek out and support micro businesses that are keeping Tunisian heritage alive. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBen Gacem also put a small army of craftsmen to work restoring the guesthouses. It took seven years for the gypsum carvers, ceramicists, wood workers and stone layers to restore the first guest house to its former glory. Like the rest of the enchanting Medina, every element of the buildings has a story, from the broad marble slabs on the floor of the courtyard (“We had to remove and label them, one by one, to put in the plumbing,” she told me) to the mismatched columns that were likely repurposed from Roman ruins by the Arabs who founded the Medina in the 7th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBen Gacem believes that Tunis’ cultural heritage shouldn’t just be preserved, it should be passed down. The guesthouses have become hubs for culture, hosting dinners, lectures and concerts that are open to the public and full of locals from the neighbourhood. She also encourages young artisans to take up apprenticeships and trains local teens in the hospitality industry, so that the cultural legacy of the Medina will stay in the hands of its residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile Ben Gacem works to preserve culture inside the Medina, outside its walls a swell of young Tunisians is redefining that cultural heritage through arts, music and design. Among the standouts is Anissa Meddeb, who blends Tunisian textiles and Asian influences to create fresh, fashion-forward clothing for her brand \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fanissaaida.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAnissa Aida\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Born and raised in Paris to Tunisian parents, Meddeb studied fashion in New York before deciding to move to Tunis to start her own line.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen she first got started in 2016, she said it was tough finding quality fabric in a sea of fast-fashion polyester. So she scoured the small towns in Tunisia to find the best silk, linen and cotton weavers to collaborate with. “I wanted to get back to the roots of artisans,” Meddeb said. It took her months to find the right partners, but now she commissions fabrics from across the country for her line, which is sold in local boutiques like \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.muskandambergallery.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMusk & Amber\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as well as in shops across Europe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked Meddeb why a rising design star would move from a fashion mecca to Tunis, she was clear: “There’s an energy in Tunis now, especially with younger artists. People have something to say.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There’s an energy in Tunis now, especially with younger artists. People have something to say.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor travellers looking to tap into that energy, and the beautiful design that goes with it, head to the neighbourhoods north of downtown Tunis. Closest to the city centre, in Mutuelleville, stop by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Flartisanerietunisie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EL’artisanerie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for hand-woven plant hangers and decorated mirrors, then visit \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmoojastore\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMooja\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FElyssaArtisanat\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EElyssa Artisanat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to try on the latest in Tunisian fashion. In the trendy La Marsa neighbourhood, you’ll find contemporary pottery in a fresh black-and-white palette at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FNOA.Atelier\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENoa Atelier\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; a floor-to-ceiling selection of handwoven \u003Cem\u003Efoutas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a traditional towel perfect for the beach or your guest bathroom) at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FHager+Fouta\u002F@36.8834655,10.3315745,18.51z\u002Fdata=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xadb094efbf935cc2!8m2!3d36.8834812!4d10.3314571\"\u003EHager Fouta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; and streetwear with cheeky phrases like “The Harissa People” (a nod to Tunisia’s piping-hot chilli paste) in Arabic calligraphy at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flyoum.fr\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003ELyoum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Finish your tour in the seaside neighbourhood of Sidi Bou Said, where, tucked among the charming blue-and-white houses, you’ll find \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frockthekasbah.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERock the Kasbah\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a quirky homewares store built into a traditional house.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut great design isn’t the only thing you’ll find dotted among the luxurious houses and charming villages along the northern coast. It is also where you’ll find those world-class Roman ruins I escaped the Eternal City to find.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELong before there was Tunis, there was Carthage, the ancient Phoenician port city that was Rome’s arch-rival for centuries. In the epic poem the Aeneid\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe Roman poet Virgil tells how Carthage’s founder, queen Dido, fled Tyre in present-day Lebanon and landed in North Africa. When she pleaded for a scrap of land from the leader of the local tribe, he tossed an ox hide on the ground, saying she could have the land the hide covered. In a deft move of both semantics and surgery, she sliced the hide into thin ribbons and encircled an entire hill just above the port with it. This is Byrsa Hill, the best place to start a day of exploring the Punic and Roman ruins of Carthage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt first glance, Byrsa Hill, which is dotted with villas and mansions, looks more like Beverly Hills than a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F37\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But unlike Beverly Hills, if you want to put a pool in your Byrsa backyard, you better call an archaeologist first. For centuries, one civilisation after another built homes on this piece of prime real estate, and digging just a few metres down can turn up African red slip pottery or the remains of a Roman mosaic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile the hilltop offers sweeping views of the Mediterranean Sea and a few Punic and Roman-era ruins, its main attraction, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.patrimoinedetunisie.com.tn\u002Feng\u002Fmusees\u002Fcarthage.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Carthage Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is closed for renovation until further notice. Instead, stick to the sites at the foot of the hill: one ticket gets you into all eight major sites, which are within walking distance or a short cab ride.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMy favourite of the eight is the Tophet, or Punic, cemetery. It may be one of Carthage’s more diminutive sites, but its grisly history lends it an outsized role. Here, the ancient Phoenicians offered child sacrifices to the goddess Tanit and commemorated each one by erecting a sacrificial stone engraved with her image: a circle perched on a triangle, with outstretched arms. Dozens of these stones are clustered among a grotto of palms, in a placid but eerie scene.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust up the road, the Antonine Baths cut a more imposing figure. The series of sand-coloured arches and marble pillars were part of a cistern and public bath constructed during the Roman era, one of the largest ever made. The complex is so vast that on my last visit I watched a lone Tunisian boy scout spend nearly 20 minutes trying to find his troop in a game of Sardines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor those with an even greater hunger for ancient history (and a rental car on hand), a day trip to Dougga is well worth the effort. Just two hours’ drive south-west of the capital, Dougga is the best preserved Roman city in North Africa. The vast \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F794\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco\u003C\u002Fa\u003E complex, with its imposing Roman forum and temple, stands alone on a hill overlooking vast plains bursting with yellow wildflowers in the spring and amber grain throughout summer and autumn. You can spend hours wandering through the warren of well-preserved streets, imagining what life in the Roman town must have been like, and do it with the peace one can never find in Europe. Both times I visited, in April and June, I had the place entirely to myself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETunis may not have Rome beat in every category (the food, which is heavy on a trifecta of eggs, tinned tuna and harissa, often leaves something to be desired), but it doesn’t have to. As Tunis folds its past into its future, it is creating its own legacy as a capital of culture, history and freedom.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcomeback-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EComeback Cities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that showcases under-the-radar capitals, champions the urban underdogs and revels in the success stories of cities that have turned their fortunes around.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-01-27T15:05:15Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Why Tunis could be the new Rome","headlineShort":"Could this city be the new Rome?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Tunis is bursting with the creative energy of a generation taking full advantage of its newfound freedom of expression and fervour for preserving its heritage in unexpected ways.","summaryShort":"It’s creating its own legacy as a capital of culture, history and freedom","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:43:31.994514Z","entity":"article","guid":"3f6c0679-3b2f-489c-bb78-aa3bfca50dce","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:02:59.69357Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881476},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous","_id":"621e445a45ceed64d82931ff","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"When Mohammed Bennani took over his ancestral home, he inherited a special legacy: the habous of couscous, a Tunisian philanthropic tradition of providing couscous to people in need.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the western edge of Tunis' medina, beneath a loud mural of football graffiti, I arrived at an almost invisible arched door set in a pale pink stone doorway carved with flowers. As I pressed the doorbell, I heard shuffling inside and the loud turning of an old lock. The door swung open, and Mohammed Bennani beckoned me inside. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeit y Bennani (The House of Bennani) is Bennani's ancestral home, but is also home to a private library housing books, documents, photographs, periodicals and letters related not only to the history of Tunisia but its laws, religion, food, fashion, society and the occasional delicious morsel of gossip and scandal. Most of the archives come from the grand families of Tunisia, many of whom donated family photographs and old magazines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09scv21.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I'm in love with sharing my knowledge with people. I built a library, at first, for my own learning but I cannot just keep it to myself – sharing is the real joy.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Mohammed Bennani, archivist\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBennani ushered me into the house's inner courtyard, where hand-painted tiles lined crumbling turquoise window frames and a rampant red bougainvillea arced over a door that led to his laboratory. There, he and students from the Zitouna University in Tunis carefully restore and conserve fragile or damaged books and documents. It was high summer, and the walls of the courtyard carved out a square of cobalt Tunisian sky for us to sit under as we sipped coffee and talked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It is not a wholly traditional Tunisian house; it is a mixed house,\" said Bennani. Some of its style is Tunisian, some of it Turkish, but all the architectural elements and decoration come together in what he calls \"a happy accident\", creating an oasis of calm from the hustle and bustle of downtown Tunis. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My father died in the 1980s, and because he grew up in a patriarchal society, before he died he told my mother that the house should be left to his sons,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt that time, though, he and his brother were pursuing their careers abroad: Bennani as an economics journalist for the state news agency and Tunisian Africa Press bureau in Belgium; and his brother dentistry in France. Thus it was their mother who watched over the family home until her death in 1995. By then, Bennani and his brother had returned to the house, living in the upper apartments. As Tunisian inheritance obeys the Islamic Sharia, their sisters' shares of the inheritance should have been half of their brothers'. However, they divided the property up equally and bought out their sisters' shares to establish the library and archive on the ground floor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The tradition comes from an Islamic hadith","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, with the house came an additional inheritance: the legacy of the \"habous of couscous\", a philanthropic tradition of providing a meal of couscous, Tunisia's most iconic dish, to people in need from the local mosque.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECouscous is as old as the Amazigh, the original people of the Maghreb, an area that encompasses much of northern Africa. Traditionally, women would hand roll ground semolina to make the granular pasta in summer before drying and storing it to feed their families year round. The cooked dish was (and still is) made by steaming the couscous in a \u003Cem\u003Ecouscousiere\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a double-chambered pot) over a spicy stew of meat or fish and vegetables. The sauce created from cooking would be mixed into the cooked couscous, and the meat and vegetables laid decoratively on top and garnished with fried long green peppers. Traditionally, diners would all eat from the same big platter, making it an ideal dish to offer to those who come hungry. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHabous is the North African name for the Muslim tradition of \u003Cem\u003Ewaqf\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – an endowment made to a charitable cause. It originates from an Islamic hadith, where Omar ibn al-Khattâb, a companion of the Prophet Mohammed asked what he could do with his land that would be pleasing to Allah. The prophet advised distributing profits among the poor, and thus the tradition was born.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Beit y Bennani (The House of Bennani) is Bennani's ancestral home","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We have three shop spaces inside the medina, which we rent out to merchants; the rent money pays for a large platter of couscous for poor people to eat after \u003Cem\u003EJu'muah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Friday prayers),\" Bennani said.  Originally, when Bennani's family started the tradition, the housekeeper would cook a huge pot of couscous with lamb, which is traditional and something the poor could not afford to buy for themselves, though now, Bennani serves vegetarian couscous. He explained that his couscous always includes wedges of pumpkin, cabbage, whole onions, carrots, potato and one or two seasonal vegetables such as cardoons in winter and courgettes in summer, which is all topped with long green peppers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Tunis could be the new Rome\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210415-the-fortified-cities-on-the-fringes-of-the-sahara\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe cities that banned the selfie\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181101-a-journey-to-a-moroccan-village-frozen-in-time\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Moroccan village frozen in time\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt this point, Bennani jumped up from his seat and gestured for me to follow him to the house's back entrance, into a high vaulted hall of pale grey stone lined with tiled benches set into the wall. There, he opened a small door and enacted the arrival of visitors who had just come from prayer at the mosque. \"The family would leave this back door open so worshippers could enter quietly, eat the couscous and then leave discreetly,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Bennaniis have lived in this house since 1813. However, when Tunisia won its independence from France in 1956, the tradition of habbous couscous was abolished by the first president of the Republic, Habib Bourguiba. \"But my father and mother did not accept this, and they continued to do the Friday couscous dinners,\" Bennani said. However, he continued, \"After 1970, they stopped the couscous. They gave money because the poor didn't want [to be given] things to eat anymore.\" According to Bennani, the Bourguiba regime brought in food subsidies to help the poor eat well, but that they still needed money to buy other essentials.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The House of Bennani has a private library of books, documents, photographs, and letters","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBennani reinstated the tradition of habous of couscous following his mother's death. At first, he would bring a huge plate of couscous to the nearby mosque, but later offered it to visitors at the house. Now, the couscous dinners are held every Wednesday during the academic terms. \"I reintroduced couscous to create a sociable [weekly event] to complement the other activities of Beit el Bennani,\" he explained. Aside from the workings of the library, Bennani has always had an open-door policy for \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fcatalog.crl.edu\u002Fsearch\u002FY?searchtype=d&SORT=D&searcharg=histoire&searchscope=32&submit.x=24&submit.y=14\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecultural activities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E such as outdoor screenings of documentaries, films and photographs, where \"young people come and watch sitting on carpets in the courtyard\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll are welcome, he says, and he has received visitors from as far afield as the US and Japan, though most of his couscous diners are cash-strapped students hailing from the poorer regions of Tunisia. \"They are the new poor,\" he explained. \"They come from the deprived region of the interior, not from the capital.\" Bennani's weekly couscous dinners not only fill their bellies, but feed their minds as well. Students make friends and discuss ideas, while Bennani indulges in his greatest love: sharing knowledge from his latest archival discoveries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside the medina's labyrinthine streets, Bennani showed me the shop spaces he rents to provide the money for the habous, on Rue des Libraries (Street of Bookshops), a cobbled street shaded from the harsh summer sun by a roof made of dried palm fronds. The street once lined with booksellers is now filled mostly with jewellers, watchmakers and trinket shops.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe then walked over to Tunis' grand Marche Centrale, where he buys the vegetables for his couscous. He introduced me to his favourite vendors, cracking jokes with anyone who stopped to greet him. At one stall, he showed me the shiny green peppers beloved in Tunisian cuisine. He explained that onion, carrot, pumpkin and potato are staple vegetables in a Tunisian couscous, but others like courgettes and white and purple turnips are used when they are in season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mohammed Bennani buys vegetables for his couscous at Tunis' Marche Centrale","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAcross the Maghreb region, from Libya and Tunisia in the east to Algeria, Morocco and Mauritania in the west, bread and couscous are staple foods. These countries have argued over which is the original home of couscous, but in December 2020, \"the knowledge, know-how and practices related to the production and consumption of couscous\" was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.unesco.org\u002Fnews\u002Funescos-inscription-couscous-traditions-example-international-cultural-cooperation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einscribed in U\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.unesco.org\u002Fnews\u002Funescos-inscription-couscous-traditions-example-international-cultural-cooperation\"\u003Enesco's \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.unesco.org\u002Fnews\u002Funescos-inscription-couscous-traditions-example-international-cultural-cooperation\"\u003Elist of Intangible Cultural Heritage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, honouring all the countries that share the traditional dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach nation has its own couscous variations – for example, Morocco uses sweet spices like cinnamon, while Tunisia is known for its love of harissa, a spicy red pepper paste – but even Tunisian couscous recipes vary widely from region to region. In the southern city of Zarzis, for instance, green couscous with dill is popular, while on the coast in Sousse, locals love brown couscous with snails. However, the best-known couscous is a marriage of lamb and tomatoes that hails from Sidi Bouzid, which incorporates \u003Cem\u003Efilfil ahmer shaya\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the smoky flavoured dried red peppers from the Cap Bon peninsula that go into the country's famous harissa), a garnish of peppers and cumin from the holy city of Kairouan, and vegetables grown in the west of the country. It's truly a national dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's truly a national dish","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEssentially, Bennani's Wednesday feasts offer visitors an important taste of Tunisian culture and identity. And whether through food or the library, he has been playing an important role in preserving Tunisian heritage inside the house and sharing it with the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor him, collecting pieces of history has become a noble obsession, either from buying or having libraries and archives donated, such as hand-painted inscriptions of the 99 names of Allah. Recently, he acquired documents relating to the once-dynamic trade and diplomatic relations between Malta, Britain and Tunisia, all handwritten in swirling copperplate script weighted with stamps of the former British empire. He lovingly restores each piece before filing them on the library shelves or securing the most precious documents in a giant safe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tunisian families donated family photographs and old magazines to Mohammed Bennani","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome collections – such as such as the 8,155 photographs of Tunisian photographer Mustapha Bouchoucha (1900-1969) who documented people and life across the Maghreb and Europe – are digitised and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.dlir.org\u002Fabout-bouchoucha.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eavailable online\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Everything is categorised and indexed in an \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fcatalog.crl.edu\u002Fsearch\u002FY?searchtype=d&SORT=D&searcharg=histoire&searchscope=32&submit.x=24&submit.y=14\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eonline catalogue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E so that students and researchers in Tunisia or beyond can easily gain access – though Bennani seems to know the location of everything in the archive by heart. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis face lit up as he described finding a new library or bundle of documents as \"discovering \u003Cem\u003Eun\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Emille d'or\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\", a golden treasure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Tunisians always have open arms, always welcoming and hospitable","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When I find a piece of paper on the floor, I restore it, care for it and then one day, a researcher comes and they need that paper for their thesis – that gives me such joy and fulfilment,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBennani believes that his archive of historical texts and images can educate current and future generations on how the country can take its rightful place in the world, recalling the past when it was one of the great trading nations – one that happens to be known for its culinary riches of olive oil, grains and spices – of the Mediterranean. Whether through Tunisia's history, food or cultural customs such as habous, he invites Tunisians – and visitors who are fascinated by this land of green hills, mountains, sea and desert – to feast upon its past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Bennani, \"Tunisians always have open arms, always welcoming and hospitable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-16T14:25:08.485Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"House of Bennani: the library of the habous of couscous","headlineShort":"The couscous meal built on generosity","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Couscous is considered Tunisia's most iconic dish","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"36.7985461","longitude":"10.1604464","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Couscous is considered Tunisia's most iconic dish","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"When Mohammed Bennani took over his ancestral home, he inherited a special legacy: habous of couscous, a Tunisian philanthropic tradition of providing couscous to people in need.","summaryShort":"Here, weekly feasts offer visitors an important taste of Tunisian culture","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-16T17:21:18.335461Z","entity":"article","guid":"300ca228-ea1f-4ef7-b85d-92b8c42bcfb7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:32:39.523606Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881476},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend","_id":"621e445245ceed68134857ff","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Felizia-volkmann"],"bodyIntro":"When blended with olive oil and honey, this unassuming brown powder – which has been eaten by Tunisians and Libyans for millennia – transforms into a breakfast of champions.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlong the curving bay of Tunisia's southern Gulf of Hammamet is the pretty village of Lamta, marked by its ornate blue and white doorways, eclectic architecture and shops selling bsissa, a nutritious food that has been loved and eaten by Tunisians and Libyans for millennia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETraditionally, this simple beige-coloured powder is based on the regional staples of roasted hard durum wheat and barley that have been flavoured with fennel seed, aniseed and marjoram, and then ground. It's often augmented with ground nuts – roasted pulses such as chickpeas, lentils or fava beans – and other additions like ground sesame seeds and carob, to ramp up its already substantial nutritional value. When blended with olive oil and honey into a thick cream and decorated with roasted nuts, this unassuming brown dust – a veritable ugly duckling of the food world – transforms into a breakfast of champions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs people today search for the next \"superfood\", this ancient powder is becoming increasingly popular in North Africa and beyond for its purported health benefits. Locals have learned that the bsissa their mum once made them for breakfast is as good as – if not better than – any trendy protein shake. Being high in complex carbohydrates and fibre, it releases energy slowly, has 15 to 18g of protein per 100g, and is packed with vitamin C as well as minerals including iron, potassium, zinc, magnesium and calcium. More and more, it's becoming available on menus at cafes and a growing number of eco-hotels that offer yoga retreats.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bkydgn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A spoonful of a thick, brown mixture","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, long before hipster kitchens buzzed to the sound of power smoothies, farmers and caravan drivers in the Maghreb – which runs from Libya in the east of North Africa to the Atlantic seaboard of Morocco – carried sacks of bsissa to ensure they'd have a good source of nutrition, even in the middle of the Sahara Desert. Serving as North Africa's original convenience food, it could either be mixed with olive oil, or with water and fruits to create a satisfying meal-shake called \u003Cem\u003Erowina\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe past few years living in Tunis, I started noticing new types of bsissa in shops and eateries, including gluten-free versions, and the food was becoming a regular topic of conversation. During lunch in the capital city one day, a new acquaintance told me that her mother is from Lamta, where an annual bsissa festival is held, and gave me the contact information of the festival organisers so I could learn more about why bsissa is so important to the town. When I called the number, Khairi Sassi, a young, enterprising entrepreneur, picked up and invited me to visit his family's bsissa business.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESassi and his family's lives revolve around the making and selling of bsissa. In their small shop, which is crowded with shelves housing packets of bsissa powder, his father Dalel ladled out \u003Cem\u003Ezrir\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a Tunisian dessert made of sesame seeds, nuts such as hazelnuts and pine nuts, butter and honey – into plastic pots. Dalel gave me a spoon so I could dig in and taste it, which is often sold alongside bsissa as its more luxurious counterpart, while Sassi showed me all the different types of bsissa available for sale and told me about his business.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We all work together as a family – mum, dad, my sister and me,\" Sassi said. \"My mum used to work in an office and hated it, so we set up the workshop and we financed it all ourselves.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bkyg3k"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A man stands left with hands in his jacket pockets","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe then headed to the family's home in a working-class seafront neighbourhood. On its ground floor was a small, modern and scrupulously clean bsissa-making workshop, where I was greeted by the smell of roasting wheat along with a warm smile and handshake from Sassi's mother, Zahia Bousrhi. She showed me the entire process, pouring the hot roasted wheat into large metal bowls and measuring out other ingredients including chickpeas, beans, almonds and spices. Once everything is mixed, it's packed up and taken to the local miller, who grinds it into the finished product: an unassuming looking but flavour-packed powder.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBousrhi took me outside and pointed out the home built on top of the workshop. She said, \"I built those three floors – everything good that I have comes from bsissa.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBsissa has been a lifeline for the Lamtiens, who have managed to develop a thriving cottage industry from it. However, it's more than just something to eat to Tunisians. It's also a marker of major life events such as weddings, births and moving into a new home, as well as holidays and other special occasions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Everything good that I have comes from bsissa","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBsissa has been a lifeline for the Lamtiens, who have managed to develop a thriving cottage industry from it. However, it's more than just something to eat to Tunisians. It's also a marker of major life events such as weddings, births and moving into a new home, as well as holidays and other special occasions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Bsissa is linked to our traditions and festivals,\" said Saoussen Baccar, co-owner of a family-run delicatessen called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FAyemZmenTN\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAyem Zmen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E located in Tunis' chic seaside suburb of La Marsa. \"When a couple gets married, they present the bride with bowl of bsissa decorated with toasted nuts and dried fruit. We give a special type of bsissa to a woman as she prepares for birth and another for when she is breastfeeding.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELibyan and Tunisian Jews eat it when celebrating Al Bsissa, a uniquely Maghrebian feast that follows the spring festival of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnewsround\u002F56210745\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPurim\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and augurs the season of Passover. Traditionally, the mother of the family would stir the olive oil into the bsissa with the key to the house, signifying wealth and the protection of the home. Or, sometimes, the women would put their gold jewellery into the bsissa as it is being mixed to symbolise how Jewish women gave up all their gold to pay for the Mishkan (or tabernacle) that served as the temporary home for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FArk-of-the-Covenant\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArk of the Covenant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as described in the Book of Exodus when Moses and the Israelites wandered in search of their promised land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Islam arrived in North Africa in the 7th and 8th Centuries, bsissa became a Ramadan essential as part of Suhoor, the meal eaten before sunrise when fasting begins. My travel companion, Lazahr Gamoudi, a consultant who has worked on agricultural development projects all over Tunisia, told me that before modern transportation, when people walked or travelled in camel trains, they took sacks of bsissa as supplies to ensure they ate well for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002Fhajj\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHajj\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the pilgrimage to Mecca.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bkyh9d"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A woman scoops and pours grains out of a large basket into a smaller dish","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBsissa is a mercurial dish that not only varies by religion but also by season and by which part of the country it's eaten in. \"Each region has its own tradition of bsissa,\" explained Baccar. \"[The island of] Djerba uses sorghum but only in winter; [the city of] Sousse makes bsissa from roasted lentils; some use beans. We always use ground nuts or \u003Cem\u003Ehelba\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fenugreek seeds), though not everyone likes the strong flavour, and carob powder and sesame too.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe offered me a bowl of Sfaxien bsissa made from chickpeas, as it's gluten free, perfect for a coeliac like me, along with a box of dates. \"You use the date like a spoon,\" she said. The pasty, golden bsissa hit my tastebuds with a rich nuttiness that was simultaneously silky and sticky, demanding me to chew slowly and revel in an almost contemplative way of eating. Fast food this is not, and after three scoops of it with plump dates, I was satisfied.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Bsissa has been a lifeline for the Lamtiens, who have managed to develop a thriving cottage industry from it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EApart from the typical regional variations, Baccar creates her own signature bsissa blends using various health foods, from an oat-based bsissa with dates and figs to a sugar-free bsissa. She is proudest of her moringa bsissa. Moringa powder, made from the leaves of a tree nicknamed the \"Miracle Tree\", which is cultivated in South-east Asia and East Africa, has recently become very popular due its nutrient content including high levels of calcium making it a plant-based alternative to dairy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm always doing research into new types of healthy foods to introduce to Tunisia,\" she said. \"[Bsissa] is a food that is very easy to eat – a few spoonfuls and you feel full. Durum wheat is a source of protein that can replace animal protein for vegetable protein. It has antioxidants, vitamin E, vitamins B1, B6, B9, zinc; it's very rich, and mixed with olive oil, you gain the benefits of the good fats and oleic acids.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bkyjdz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A storefront with a blue and white striped door","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAll of Baccar's ingredient sourcing and recipe development is carefully monitored, including the honey, which she buys from local producers, and she tests and analyses every batch to ensure the highest quality. \"We collaborate with nutritionists,\" she said. \"For example, dietary fibre is important for digestive transit, but you need the right amount; too much and you create other problems.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBaccar's bsissa is very successful, and her shop that has housed the family business since 1966 is now too small, with customers regularly queuing to get in. To meet the demand, she and her husband have built \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FAyemZmenTN\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea new food hall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E due to open in February. She explained how visitors to Tunisia are trying bsissa for breakfast in hotels or at Tunisian friend's houses, and are getting hooked. And an appetite for bsissa is growing internationally as Tunisians living abroad in France and Australia are now packaging and selling bsissa as a stylish health food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, if there's one must-go place to eat bsissa in Tunisia, it's Lamta. The town's annual (apart from being cancelled in 2020 and 2021 due to Covid) bsissa festival began back in May 2001 and attracts visitors from the wider Maghreb, as well as people from as far afield as Italy and Indonesia. According to Sana Saleh, president of the committee that organises the festival, it was \"set it up to support the intangible heritage of Lamta and to support the Lamtiens\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bkyj8l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A man and woman stand in the doorway of a small food shop","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the festival, visitors can sample different varieties of bsissa, as well as other local dishes, and the event culminates in a competition for the best bsissa. Recent gold medal winners Salma Saleh and her husband Najib Rajeb, who run Bsissa Salma just off the main drag, boast the most expensive bsissa in Lamta. Their cousin Selim popped into the shop and wielded a disposable spoon with delight, scooping up some of their \"Bsissa Royale\" made from \u003Cem\u003Edraa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sorghum) and \u003Cem\u003Ezoughou\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a typical Tunisian flavouring made with ground nuts from the Aleppo pine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Draa is the best, it has your A, B, C vitamins!\" exclaimed Selim.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll the bsissas we tasted were delicious, but tasting the Bsissa Royal with its aromatic and slightly spicy flavour made me understand why it won the top prize. Gamoudi, my travel buddy and \"taster\" (since I couldn't eat any wheat-based bsissa), enjoyed bsissa so much that he bought several packets of it for his daughter, as the healthy on-the-go snack is a working parent's friend. It was a perfect snack for us, too: the spoonfuls we tasted meant we had no desire for lunch before our journey back to Tunis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter called \"The Essential List\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-31T10:25:59Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Bsissa: North Africa's ancient convenience food","headlineShort":"North Africa's ancient convenience food","image":["p0bkybmt"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Baskets of colourful grains","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"36.0826634","longitude":"10.2736844","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Baskets of colourful grains","promoImage":["p0bkybmt"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200125-why-tunis-could-be-the-new-rome","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210816-house-of-bennani-the-library-of-the-habous-of-couscous"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"When blended with olive oil and honey, this unassuming brown powder – which has been eaten by Tunisians and Libyans for millennia – transforms into a breakfast of champions.","summaryShort":"It's becoming increasingly popular as a health food","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fcultural-activities","tag\u002Fhospitality"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-30T22:26:40.558013Z","entity":"article","guid":"d1e49eb5-477a-4966-b9be-4b15b630f52b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:07.847703Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220130-bsissa-north-africas-newest-breakfast-trend","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ftunisia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fafrica"],"destinationStat":"africa_tunisia_africa","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881476},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","_id":"621e445945ceed70956aba25","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Even as the Omicron variant has parts of Europe on lockdown again, the UAE has managed, so far, to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThroughout the pandemic, the United Arab Emirates has been one of the most resilient in the face of changing Covid variants, with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fourworldindata.org\u002Fcovid-vaccinations\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworld's highest vaccination rate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and extensive, affordable testing. In fact, the UAE is currently ranked number one in Bloomberg's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomberg.com\u002Fgraphics\u002Fcovid-resilience-ranking\u002F?sref=d39KtWbu\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECovid Resilience ranking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which ranks 53 countries on 12 indicators like healthcare quality, virus mortality and reopening travel. Even as the Omicron variant has parts of Europe on lockdown again, the UAE has managed, so far, to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Being here now feels like a different planet to two years ago, and I love it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDue to the pandemic, its most populous city, Dubai, has also transformed itself from a global tourism hub into one more invested in its own community. \"We all had to work together to protect each other,\" said Kathy Johnston, chief chocolate officer at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmirzam.com\u002F\"\u003EMirzam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E chocolate company, who has lived in the city for more than 30 years. \"People are supporting more local concepts and projects with authenticity behind them. Things are moving a little slower and more considerately. Being here now feels like a different planet to two years ago, and I love it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhy should I go now?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor one, the weather is perfect right now, say residents. \"October to May is the best time of year to visit because it's not excruciatingly hot anymore,\" said Dubai resident Tala Mohamad. That also has meant the return of outdoor events and activities and leisurely evenings spent on the city's numerous patio and rooftop seaside lounges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city is also hosting \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EExpo 2020\u003C\u002Fa\u003E until the end of March 2022, a global six-month event featuring pavilions from all over the world, showcasing unique innovations and futuristic projects. \"Don't miss [the] Expo. Just don't,\" said Johnston. \"Give yourself a whole week. Wait three hours in line for Japanese sushi and enjoy the date pudding with dukkah at [on-site restaurant] \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002Fen\u002Fplan-your-visit\u002Fwhere-to-eat\u002Fbaron\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBaron\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and dream under the stars at the Australian pavilion.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETravel with no trace\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDubai has worked diligently over the past decade to become more sustainable, with major investments in solar energy, water conservation and green building and infrastructure. Expo 2020 is also hosting a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002Fen\u002Funderstanding-expo\u002Fsustainability-district\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESustainability Pavilion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, showcasing projects like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002Fen\u002Fnews\u002F20200121-sustainability-pavilion-canopy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esolar trees\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that provide shade while creating energy and a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thenationalnews.com\u002Fuae\u002Fexpo-2020\u002F2021\u002F09\u002F14\u002Fdutch-pavilions-vertical-farm-produces-first-vegetables-at-expo-2020-dubai\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehuge vertical farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E growing 9,000 plants and herbs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Solar trees at the Sustainability Pavilion Expo 2020 Dubai","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.orfalibros.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThe pandemic unexpectedly created a boom in chefs engaging with local ingredients and talent, said Johnston, with a handful of new spaces opening up in the past two years. Some of her favourites include \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.orfalibros.com\u002F\"\u003EOrfali Bro's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for its Arabic inspirations; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftresindstudio.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETresind Studio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for its upscale dinner and breakfast; and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthebarn.de\u002Fpages\u002Fthe-barn-dubai\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Barn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E speciality coffee bar and next-door \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fhapi.ae\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHAPI\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for their sweet potato pancakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor a unique take mixing Japanese inspiration with local produce, Mohamad recommends \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.moon-rise.xyz\u002Fpages\u002Fabout\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoonrise\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at the rooftop of Eden House and its \u003Cem\u003Eomakase\u003C\u002Fem\u003E menu. \"For example, one dish is \u003Cem\u003Echutoro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E from Spain with honey from Ras Al Khaimah [the emirate 100km north-east of Dubai],\" she said. With just eight seats, it's usually fully booked so reserve in advance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 333 islands opening to the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's safest cities in 2021\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island welcoming digital nomads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EResident Vibha Dhawan, a travel advisor with \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ovationtravel.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOvation Travel Group\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, recommends \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fboca.ae\u002F\"\u003EBoca\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which uses local ingredients like salmon from the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fishfarm.ae\u002F\"\u003EUAE's Fish Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and milk from local camel dairies; and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fthesumofusdubai\u002F\"\u003EThe Sum of Us\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the first cafes in Dubai to become eco-friendly by using avocado seed straws and offering 10% off to customers who bring a reusable takeaway cup.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor a more in-depth look at the city's sustainability initiatives, Dhawan recommends checking out the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.emiratesbiofarm.com\u002F\"\u003EEmirates Bio Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the largest private organic farm in the country. \"Book a group tour and sunset session,\" she said. \"This gives you an in-depth visit around the acres of land followed by the chance to harvest your own vegetables. They also offer pop-up dining experiences throughout the year.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo experience the natural desert of the region, she recommends the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marriott.com\u002Fhotels\u002Ftravel\u002Fdxbam-al-maha-a-luxury-collection-desert-resort-and-spa-dubai\u002F\"\u003EAl Maha resort and spa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Located within \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20110321-dubais-first-national-park\"\u003EDubai's first national park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the five-star resort is dedicated to preserving the unique ecology of the desert, including the endangered Arabian oryx. A herd of 300, the largest in Arabia, now roams freely after decades of conservation efforts. On-site field guides give guided wildlife tours on foot, 4X4, camel and horseback.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A farmworker harvests peppers at Emirates Bio Farm in Al Ain, United Arab Emirates","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor an experience in the heart of the city, the new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.25hours-hotels.com\u002Fen\u002Fhotels\u002Fdubai\u002Fone-central\"\u003E25hours One Central\u003C\u002Fa\u003E hotel, which opened in December 2021, celebrates the country's traditions by immersing visitors in theme of \u003Cem\u003Ehakawati\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, Arabic for storytelling. The experience starts in the lobby with the circular \"Fountain of Tales\" library with more than 5,000 books, topped with rotating art from local artists, and continues throughout the hotel with Bedouin-inspired art and décor, a tribute to both ancient and modern nomads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EKnow before you go\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Omicron variant has travel restrictions changing rapidly, so check the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fu.ae\u002Fen\u002Finformation-and-services\u002Fjustice-safety-and-the-law\u002Fhandling-the-covid-19-outbreak\u002Ftravelling-amid-covid-19\u002Ftravelling-to-the-uae\"\u003EUAE Travel to Dubai\u003C\u002Fa\u003E page for the latest notices and requirements. Currently, travel is open to vaccinated tourists with a WHO-approved vaccine, though visitors must undergo a rapid test on arrival. Unvaccinated travellers must provide a negative PCR test within 72 hours of departure. Travel is currently suspended for those coming from or transiting through \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fu.ae\u002Fen\u002Finformation-and-services\u002Fjustice-safety-and-the-law\u002Fhandling-the-covid-19-outbreak\u002Ftravelling-amid-covid-19\u002Ftravelling-to-the-uae\"\u003Ecertain African countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravellers must download the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fu.ae\u002Fen\u002Finformation-and-services\u002Fjustice-safety-and-the-law\u002Fhandling-the-covid-19-outbreak\u002Fsmart-solutions-to-fight-covid-19\u002Fthe-alhosn-uae-app\"\u003EAl Hosn app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the UAE's official contact tracing and health status app, which uses a colour-coded system (grey, red, green) to reflect test results and vaccination status. The Dubai Health Authority offers the DXB Smart app, available for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fplay.google.com\u002Fstore\u002Fapps\u002Fdetails?id=ae.gov.dha.covid19\"\u003EAndroid\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapps.apple.com\u002Fapp\u002Fcovid19-dxb-smart-app\u002Fid1504818399\"\u003EiOS\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which gives visitors real-time information about UAE's current Covid rates, tracks test results and exposures, and is used to show vaccination status within the emirate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-06T22:06:15Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Why is this country so resilient?","headlineShort":"Why is this country so resilient?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"25.2048","longitude":"55.2708","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Even as the Omicron variant has parts of Europe on lockdown again, the UAE has managed, so far, to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low.","summaryShort":"It has managed to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-05T22:07:18.553104Z","entity":"article","guid":"06ce894b-75d2-462a-8da6-da95220ccf11","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:39:42.558997Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881477},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words","_id":"621e444445ceed604f5b119b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"New storytelling groups are reintroducing the Irish to ancient myths and the art of blarney.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI always knew my Uncle Peter was setting up for a story when he’d lean back in his bar stool. Nothing dramatic, nothing too flashy, just a gentle recline – always followed by a more determined pushing away of his half-drunk pint of Harp and a wipe of the whiskers. Stage set, audience warned, he’d begin by saying “C’mere ‘till I tell you.” By the time that pint of Harp was drained, half the pub would be leaning in to listen and laugh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe stories he told were the everyday made interesting. They were anecdotes about the butcher or the bus driver, or a screaming match at the end of the street. Every story was true, but embellished each time it was told; embroidered to make the story more entertaining. It’s a way of telling stories that is very Irish. You probably know it better as blarney.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJack Lynch prefers to call them “tall tales”. As the Chair of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.storytellersofireland.org\u002F\"\u003EAos Scéal Éireann\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or Storytellers of Ireland, Lynch is the man charged with getting the Irish talking again. Incredibly, it seems that we had stopped.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Many Irish people would have memories such as yours, listening to stories in pubs or living rooms told by aunts and uncles or friends,” Lynch said. But they are just that – memories. “Storytelling is seen as an experience from the past.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIn the shadow of the seanchaí\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E The story of Irish storytelling’s decline is very much the story of the seanchaí.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe seanchaíwere Ireland’s original storytellers, travelling from village to village to tell tales. Lynch described them as “reporters, entertainers and historians” rolled into one\u003Cem\u003E.  \u003C\u002Fem\u003EWhile specialising in the swashbuckling myths of Cú Chulainn or Fionn mac Cumhaill, they also recorded and passed on local history, and – crucially for Ireland’s rural communities – were a link to local goings on. It was the seanchaí’s skill in making the everyday interesting that brought the Irish to blarney.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EListening to the seanchaí was an oral tradition that stretched back to the times of Gaelic chieftains. But by the 1950s, it was starting to disappear. “Ultimately, radio and then television displaced the storyteller,” Lynch said. “There just wasn’t the audience for them anymore.” Today, with everything from the local news to the latest Scandinavian thriller available at the press of a button on your phone, the seanchaí’s 1,000-year story looks set to come to a close.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe top of the tale\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EYet here I was with Lynch. We were in \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.thirdspace.ie\u002F\"\u003EThe Third Space cafe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Dublin’s increasingly smart Smithfield district, and he was about to tell the crowd a few stories. Only they didn’t seem to know it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere was only a single flyer advertising \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmilkandcookiestories\"\u003Ethe storytelling event\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and the crowd looked more interested in their muffins and Macbooks. For a man who has been telling tales for 15 years, Lynch was surprisingly nervy. I was too. He had no microphone, no notes – and to my mind, no hope of grabbing the crowd’s attention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter some debate about shifting the chairs to make more of a stage, Lynch strode into the middle of the cafe and launched into a welcome. He told a traditional Irish folk tale, his eyes pinched closed as he swayed and paced while speaking. There was a comforting rhythm to the story – stretches that required concentration but also funny asides. If the initial quiet from the crowd was borne of politeness, by the time the story swung to a halt there were two-dozen heads craning in to listen and seats being shuffled to get a better view. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMore storytellers followed. There were heroic myths and fighting faeries, but also local history. Seosamh Ó Maolalaí’s account of the 5th Battalion North Dublin volunteers and their part in the 1916 Easter Uprising was especially poignant. Told just days before the 100th anniversary of the rebellion that put Ireland on a painful path to independence, heads bowed and hands clasped during this story of Irishmen fighting Irishmen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfterwards I asked Lynch if events like this are a sign of a revival in Irish storytelling. He grinned. “It’s not a revival,” he said, “because storytelling in Ireland was never quite dead. But interest is growing again.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENew style, same story\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E And interest is growing fast. The Third Space event is just one of several regular storytelling events and clubs that have sprung up in the last couple of years. And, ironically, it’s the same flick-of-a button technology that endangered the seanchaí that looks set to save Irish storytelling all together.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn Galwa,y I met up with Órla McGovern who set up \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmothandbutterflystories\"\u003EMoth and Butterfly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2012. The group has grown from a handful of friends sharing stories to a monthly event that attracts close to 100 people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike many of the new Irish storytelling groups, Moth and Butterfly is part inspired by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthemoth.org\u002F\"\u003Ethe Moth storytelling groups\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the United States, where participants must tell true personal stories in less than five minutes.  But, while personal stories are encouraged here, all stories are welcome. McGovern also admitted that you’d struggle to get an Irish person to finish telling you their name in five minutes, so the time limit has been doubled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe group meets at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ardbia.com\u002F\"\u003EArd Bia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a modern Irish restaurant set in a traditional stone cottage on the banks of Galway’s River Corrib. The night I visited, it was a full house with people perched on mismatched furniture and rescued church pews.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere are a backbone of regular performers who run the Moth and Butterfly, but this is also an event where members of the audience can join in. “It’s actually nicer when someone from the audience gets up to tell a story,” McGovern insisted. “It might be less polished, but it’s often more meaningful.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETwo of the regular performers told an improvised story in both Gaelic and English. The first teller gave a little of the story in Gaelic, before the second teller translated and added a little more. It was purposefully chaotic, and by the time we finished the tale of a pig drinking \u003Cem\u003Epoitín\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the Irish equivalent of moonshine) the crowd was in riotous laughter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked McGovern why she thinks storytelling is making a comeback, she gave a quick nod to our phones on the table in front of us. “It’s a need for connection,” she said. “Yes, technology has made us increasingly connected to the world, but also less connected to each other. I think storytelling nurtures connections with people in real life.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI could see what she meant. I’d expected college students and highbrow culture braggarts – and they were here – but there were also office workers, pensionable couples and at least two quintessential Irish gentlemen in sports jackets and brogues. Few events could attract such an egalitarian crowd.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI’m not sure what my Uncle Peter would make of telling stories over freshly baked muffins, and I can’t print what he would say about stories that have to be told within a certain time. But while Irish storytelling may have changed, he would still recognise the myths and laugh-out-loud anecdotes. He’d certainly be glad the Irish are talking again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words-16"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2016-05-23T18:31:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"How the Irish lost their words","headlineShort":"How the Irish lost their words","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"New storytelling groups are reintroducing the Irish to ancient myths and the art of blarney.","summaryShort":"Meet the man who’s charged with getting Ireland talking again","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T22:40:53.348857Z","entity":"article","guid":"63254510-5019-4180-aa9d-50df87ea96ad","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T01:45:02.539847Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881477},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland","_id":"621e8f8d45ceed42b01ae561","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway"],"bodyIntro":"After some of the longest Covid-19 restrictions in Europe, Ireland is looking to 2022 and beyond with optimism.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter 20 months of Covid-19 restrictions, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fworld\u002F2022\u002Fjan\u002F21\u002Fireland-announces-plans-to-lift-most-covid-restrictions\"\u003Eone of the longest stretches in Europe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Ireland \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-60078125\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecently lifted\u003C\u002Fa\u003E its 20:00 curfew on restaurants, bars, and indoor events and removed limits on the number of people gathered. As a result, residents are heralding the return of the \u003Cem\u003Ecraic\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the atmosphere of fun and conversation that permeates the Irish social scene.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Spring is in the air, figuratively and literally,\" said Dublin resident Ray Commins, founder of walking tour company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.generationtours.com\u002Fdublin\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGeneration Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"There's a real sense of optimism as we emerge from a winter (two in fact) of discontent. I don't think there's been a spring or summer we've looked forward to more in my time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENowhere is that more evident than in the classic Irish pubs, where socialising and singing have finally returned – a culture no longer taken for granted by the locals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We missed it dearly as a society here, and having it back is an incredible boost to morale,\" said Commins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br4kz8"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"People outside a traditional Irish bar in Dublin","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstpatricksfestival.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhy should I go now?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDublin, Ireland's capital, is rapidly preparing for its first \"proper\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstpatricksfestival.ie\u002F\"\u003ESt Patrick's Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E since 2019, a four-day celebration from 16 to 20 March, featuring music, the iconic parade, theatre and a food and craft village. Though the capital hosts the largest celebration, many Irish cities, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.corkcity.ie\u002Fen\u002Fcork-st-patricks-festival\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECork\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.galwaytourism.ie\u002Fevent\u002Fst-patricks-day-festival\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGalway\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstpatricksfestivalkilkenny.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKilkenny\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, each host their own parade in honour of the country's patron saint.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe hospitality industry in Ireland expects international travellers to return in droves this summer, so spring and autumn may be the best time to beat the global crowds. Among locals, the vaccination programme has been one of the most successful across Europe, with more than 95% of adults vaccinated and 72% receiving a booster, according to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvaccinetracker.ecdc.europa.eu\u002Fpublic\u002Fextensions\u002FCOVID-19\u002Fvaccine-tracker.html#national-ref-tab\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EECDC\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETravel with no trace\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe country has seen a number of new hotel openings and re-openings, all of which have taken sustainability seriously. In County Tipperary, 200km south-west of Dublin, the five-star \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cashelpalacehotel.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECashel Palace Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is set to open in March 2022. The hotel composts all its food waste to later be used in its on-site gardens, and sources as much food as possible from producers all within the county's borders, many of which are part of the national food sustainability program \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.origingreen.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOrigin Green\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow the Irish lost their words\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy is this country so resilient?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIreland's loneliest wilderness\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wrenhotel.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Wren Urban Nest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Dublin opened in September and aims to be one of Ireland's most sustainable hotels, eschewing the use of any fossil fuels. \"They use 100% renewable energy, avoid single-use plastics and source locally as much as possible,\" said Kate McCabe, co-founder of eco travel company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bogandthunder.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBog & Thunder\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It's really easy to see their commitment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven historical sites like 18th-Century \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ballynahinch-castle.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBallynahinch Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Co Galway has embraced its connection and responsibility to the land. The estate has worked to remove invasive plant species and developed a biodiversity plan for the grounds that helps protect the salmon that run within the neighbouring Owenmore River.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br4kyw"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"People watching St Patricks Day parade in Dublin","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMcCabe has also been excited to see a renewed commitment to local eating here. \"Ireland has really embraced the farm-to-table ethos,\" she said. \"It's quite common for restaurants to list their sources on their menus – a locavore's paradise!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Ireland has really embraced the farm-to-table ethos","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faimsir.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ESome of her favourite spots include Kildair-based \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faimsir.ie\u002F\"\u003EAimsir\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which serves only food grown, harvested, fished or foraged within the Emerald Isle's borders; and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thewicklowescape.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Wicklow Escape\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a small inn 50km south of Dublin that pairs its garden lodgings with local specialties like wild boar and venison pie and Atlantic cod and scallops.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo further connect visitors with the land, McCabe often takes visitors to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cnocsuain.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECnoc Suain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a hillside settlement on the west coast within a Special Area of Conservation in the Connemara region. The founders offer events and education in the cultural heritage of the region as well as its unique bogland ecology.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EKnow before you go\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIreland requires either proof of vaccination or proof of recovery from a Covid-19 infection within the past six months. As of 1 February, travellers must also have a booster dose if it has been more than 270 days since the final dose in the initial vaccine series.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br4kxv"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"People standing on Giants Causeway against sea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EPassengers without proof must submit a negative PCR test taken within 72 hours of arrival. For EU residents, Ireland participates in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.covidcertificateportal.gov.ie\u002Fen-US\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEU Digital Covid Certificate Program\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which provides digital documentation on vaccination status and makes it easier to travel between EU member countries. Travellers must also fill out a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftravel.eplf.gov.ie\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPassenger Locator Form\u003C\u002Fa\u003E before arrival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFace covering requirements were fully lifted across Ireland in February, with the exception of health-care environments. Many local public health experts within the country still recommend the wearing of masks, but their use is voluntary. Visit the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.citizensinformation.ie\u002Fen\u002Fhealth\u002Fcovid19\u002Fpublic_health_measures_for_covid19.html#l8018d\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECitizens Information Board\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Covid page for the most updated information and requirements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-02T10:25:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Why the craic's coming back to Ireland","headlineShort":"The nation returning to the pub","image":["p0br4l0c"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"53.350140","longitude":"-6.266155","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0br4l0c"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160502-how-the-irish-lost-their-words","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220125-irelands-loneliest-wilderness-wild-nephin-national-park"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"After some of the longest Covid-19 restrictions in Europe, Ireland is looking to 2022 and beyond with optimism.","summaryShort":"\"Spring is in the air, figuratively and literally\"","tag":["tag\u002Fcovid-19"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-01T21:26:19.820413Z","entity":"article","guid":"8ddbab05-c753-4be1-94d6-72e1b49f6fc9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T12:52:50.75048Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220301-why-the-craics-coming-back-to-ireland","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fdublin","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fireland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_ireland_dublin_europe_ireland_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881476},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish","_id":"621e445145ceed67bf379e66","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Lorighittas, a Sardinian pasta in the shape of an earring, has been passed down by women from generation to generation. However, the dish has remained unknown to the outside world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe road from Santa Teresa Gallura to Porto Cervo on Sardinia’s northern coast twists and turns with the painstaking precision I’d imagined goes into the handwoven needlepoint pillows I saw in the airport gift shop earlier that week. With every unforgiving turn, I was silently cursing the bottle of vermentino and swills of mirto – a berry-based liqueur made from the myrtle plant that flourishes in this region – from the night before. Handmade textiles, much like homemade food (and mirto), are a journey into the soul of a place, and I had no set itinerary except to taste the bounty of locally made pasta, pecorino and anything typically Sardo in between.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This pasta is special","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy the time I sat down for lunch at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ristoranteilpomodoro.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIl Pomodoro\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Restaurant, a casual outpost in Costa Smeralda known for serving up traditional Sardo fare, I was famished. I ordered the special, a handmade pasta called \u003Cem\u003Elorighittas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in a seafood broth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA few minutes later appeared a bowl of twisted golden ringlets so perfectly braided I’d swear even Rapunzel would be impressed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This pasta is special,” Agostino Demontis, maître of Pomodoro Restaurant at Cervo Hotel said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secret behind Italy’s rarest pasta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171018-the-perfect-pasta-dish-sardinians-refuse-to-share\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe pasta dish Sardinians refuse to share\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170906-the-last-surviving-sea-silk-seamstress\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe last surviving sea silk seamstress\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe story behind lorighittas’ name, derived from the Sardinian word ‘\u003Cem\u003Elorigas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E’, which loosely translates into ‘iron ring’ according to Demontis, varies depending on who you ask. Demontis, who’s from Segariu, a town not far from Morgongiori where lorighittas hail from, said the name comes from the iron rings that were once fixed to the walls of local houses to tether horses and oxen when men returned from the fields. However, there’s another meaning. Lorighittas also loosely translates to the Sardinian word for ‘ears’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Sometimes lorighittas were prepared by unmarried young women and teenagers who would hang the pasta on their ears after drying them under the sun. [They’d] pretend that these were real jewels since not everyone had access to gold back in these days,” Demontis said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo matter where you go in Sardinia, the landscape proves to be an easy distraction. You can’t help but feel bewitched by the occasional ancient ruins poking out of unkempt brush, or the sight of grazing sheep, more than 3.5 million I’m told, meandering along the road. It’s idyllic and wild, and changes from glittering coastal inlets to a more rugged inland landscape. The island’s history of isolation and subsequently \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20130503-sardinia-land-and-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebeing conquered\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by pretty much every neighbouring Mediterranean stronghold over the centuries, has played an integral role in the culinary traditions and customs that have prevailed over the years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESpecialties like \u003Cem\u003Efregola\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a doughy pellet-sized pasta; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171018-the-perfect-pasta-dish-sardinians-refuse-to-share\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emalloreddus alla Campidanese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with almost insect-looking shells that are made by hand-rolling dough on round reed baskets; and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esu filindeu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the rarest pasta-making traditions in the world today, have put Sardinian pasta dishes on the map. However, lorighittas have remained relatively unknown to the outside world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Nobody knows about lorighittas – it’s one of Sardinia’s well-kept secrets,” said Efisio Farris, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FSweet-Myrtle-Bitter-Honey-Mediterranean\u002Fdp\u002F0847829928\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eauthor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Sardinian chef based in Texas. “Nobody knows and nobody talks about it.” Born in Orosei on Sardinia’s eastern coast, Farris moved to the US in 1986.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Nobody knows about lorighittas – it’s one of Sardinia’s well-kept secrets","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“When I started my restaurant in 1988 in Dallas, I wanted to introduce people to this food that I grew up with,” Farris said. “It’s also a tribute to my family, and it’s important to preserve these recipes and stories.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter visiting Morgongiori with his aunt a couple years ago, Farris met two women who were making lorighittas by hand, and knew he’d stumbled on something that he had to bring back to the US.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I was kind of worried, because of how labour-intensive lorighittas are to make – and each one is made by hand – that I needed to charge higher for the dish…,” he said. “But people recognised the quality and flavour of the dish, and it became an instant favourite in our restaurant.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENestled in the foothills of Monte Arci in western Sardinia, the village of Morgongiori dates back thousands of years to the Nuragic era between 900 and 500BC. The first settlers arrived in the 6th Century BC in search of obsidian, a precious black stone derived from volcanic activity prominent in the region. Today, this town of around 800 inhabitants is perhaps best known for its handicraft rugs and tapestries, which are traditionally woven on ancient horizontal looms and are preserved in the village’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.morgongiori.eu\u002Findex.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=28&Itemid=139\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseo Vivente dell’Arte Tessile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The second most recognised craft, however, is lorighittas, listed as endangered by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fark-of-taste-slow-food\u002Florighittas\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlow Food’s Ark of Taste\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E. \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Lorighittas are considered to be very valuable because we were at risk of losing dishes like this completely,” said Raimondo Mandis, president of Cagliari’s Slow Food chapter in a telephone conversation. “There were no more than 10 women who were hand-making lorighittas, and that was on a seasonal basis.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe first recorded history of lorighittas dates to the 16th Century, in a testimony regarding the production of a peculiar pasta braided in the shape of a ring in Sardinia. The report was made to the King of Spain, who had control over most of southern Italy including Sardinia, Naples and Sicily at the time, and who had inquired about the economic activities happening on the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETraditionally, Mandis explained, lorighittas were prepared exclusively in Morgongiori for the feast that takes place on All Saints Day every year on 1 November. “Like many regions throughout Italy and especially Sardinia, food customs and traditions are tied to villages for anything from religious reasons or family gatherings to Sunday lunch,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of Morgongiori’s most popular fables, told to local children, is the story of Maria Pungi Pungi. Armed with a pitchfork, this witch-like character would fly over the houses on the night of All Saints Day and pierce the bellies of children who had eaten too many lorighittas, so that the pasta would fall out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver the centuries, Sardinia’s pastoral culture dictated that it was a woman’s duty to take care of food preparations while the men were busy on the fields, so it’s not unusual that dishes like this would be made primarily by women, Mandis told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Their shape [is] an embroidery of pasta that’s traditionally passed down from mother to daughter","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The name lorighittas reckons the idea of little ears,” Mandis said. “But their shape is connected to wedding rings, preciously made by women's hands, an embroidery of pasta that’s traditionally passed down through the women of the family from mother to daughter.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile there remains some debate over whether lorighittas were made exclusively by unmarried women in the village in the hopes of securing a husband, given Sardinia’s history of superstitions relating to food and matrimony, it wouldn’t be difficult to imagine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There are many traditions in Sardinia relating to food and marriage,” Mandis said. “For lorighittas, it has to do with the idea that for young, single women in a large family, it was a tradition or a wish for them to get married – so while they were waiting on a wedding ring, they would work on this ring-like pasta in the kitchen with their mothers and grandmothers.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInspired by the stories I’d heard, I returned from Sardinia determined to make lorighittas from scratch. The recipe, which only calls for three ingredients – a semolina-based durum flour (a typical wheat grown in the fields of Sardinia) lukewarm water and salt – should be easy enough, I thought. It’s the actual hand rolling and twisting of the dough that takes years to master.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In my opinion, the hard part isn’t learning how to prepare lorighittas, but in the level of dexterity it takes to shape them,” Francesca Turnu, councillor of the Municipality of Morgongiori said. “And it is a culinary tradition that is alive [in this town] because the women of Morgongiori continue to make it this way by hand to this day.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDexterity be damned, I thought as I began furiously massaging the durum mix into a pliant-enough lump of dough that would eventually transform into the twisty little ringlets that’d make the women of Morgongiori proud. After an hour of kneading and hand-rolling the dough into bucatini-thin noodles, it was time for the real challenge. I took my first long strip of dough and rounded it twice between my forefinger and thumb, and started, ever so gently to twist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The hard part isn’t learning how to prepare lorighittas, but in the level of dexterity it takes to shape them","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, as they’ve done for hundreds of years, women in Morgongiori knead the dough for a minimum of 30 minutes, often much longer, dabbing it occasionally with salty water until it’s nice and pliable. Once the dough is ready and the pieces of lorighittas are plaited, they’re left on a reed basket to dry, which is a good time to get started on the sauce. In Morgongiori, a typical ragu will include either chicken or pigeon with onion, garlic, parsley, white wine and tomato passata. Once the lorighittas are cooked (for less than three minutes), they’re coated with fresh pecorino cheese and layered with the ragu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESounds easy enough, except that four hours and fewer than 10 semi-passable pieces of lorighittas later, I had to throw in the towel. Maybe they didn’t turn out as planned because I’m married and live in a one-bedroom loft apartment in Jersey City – or maybe I just need to get a few more centuries of practice under my belt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery village in Sardinia has its own foods that are steeped largely in tradition using local produce. “The climate changes quite a bit from the central, more mountainous part of the island where pastoralism is really dominant,” said Carole Counihan, professor emerita of anthropology at Millersville University in the US state of Pennsylvania and visiting professor at Cagliari University in Sardinia. “Everybody has vegetable gardens, and sheep herding is dominant in central mountain regions, but then there are places where fishing is important, especially in the coastal regions, so there’s a lot of variation in the diet.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECounihan, who has studied Sardinian food and food activism traditions in her fieldwork, said the downturn in maintaining cultural food customs really started to take a turn in the 1980s with the introduction of supermarkets in Sardinia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Sardinia has more square metres of supermarkets than any other region in Italy, so a lot of people I interviewed through my fieldwork said ‘[when] I was little I ate mostly from local farmers and shepherds’,” Counihan said. “Part of that shift is due to the decline of local agriculture and pastoralism, which people are now trying to bring back. There’s been a resurgence of young farmers going back to the land with new ways and new models of supporting the local food movement that’s starting to take shape.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe effort to maintain lorighittas started in 1994, when the Morgongiori town council got together and decided to host a festival dedicated to this special pasta. Renzo Ibba, mayor of Morgongiori, said the town also invited some of Sardinia’s most acclaimed chefs at the time – including Roberto Petza, owner and chef of Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sapposentu.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ES'apposentu di Casa Puddu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Siddi, a village in central Sardinia not far from Morgongiori – to come and present different recipes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The [town] council also involved local, small producers (all women) to give tradition a new life, thanks to an \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.galmarmilla.it\u002Fen-en\u002Fgal.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEU-funded programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that helped them emerge from a family production to a professional undertaking,” Ibba said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s good to see something revitalised that was all but lost","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the town of Morgongiori continues to dedicate the first Sunday of August to lorighittas in a town-wide festival called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.dromosfestival.it\u002F2016\u002Fdromosfestival\u002Fluoghi\u002Fluogo\u002FMorgongiori-Centro-Storico-00001\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESagra Delle Lorighittas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to showcase its culinary legacy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Now, thanks to a few good chefs, we are seeing lorighittas on menus and in restaurants around the country; they are much more common,” Mandis said. Mostly, you will see them made in very good restaurants and it’s good to see something revitalised that was all but lost.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Travel, Capital, Culture, Earth and Future, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish-24"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-06-26T19:29:52Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Lorighittas: an all-but-lost Sardinian dish","headlineShort":"A pasta made only by single ladies","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Lorighittas, a Sardinian pasta in the shape of an earring, has been passed down by women from generation to generation. However, the dish has remained unknown to the outside world.","summaryShort":"It is one of the island's best-kept secrets","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:19:33.4729Z","entity":"article","guid":"07be68a4-7c3f-43f1-a710-926889c015f0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:32:07.319512Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881478},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta","_id":"621e444d45ceed64b0104baf","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"It's so difficult and time-consuming to prepare, that for 300 years only the women of a single Sardinian family knew how to make it.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAway from its famed cerulean seas, Sardinia’s craggy interior is a twisting maze of deep chasms and impenetrable massifs that shelter some of Europe’s most ancient traditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EResidents here still speak Sardo, the closest living form of Latin. Grandmothers gaze warily at outsiders from under embroidered veils. And, in a modest apartment in the town of Nuoro, a slight 62-year-old named Paola Abraini wakes up every day at 7 am to begin making \u003Cem\u003Esu filindeu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – the rarest pasta in the world.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, there are only two other women on the planet who still know how to make it: Abraini’s niece and her sister-in-law, both of whom live in this far-flung town clinging to the slopes of Monte Ortobene.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENo one can remember how or why the women in Nuoro started preparing su filindeu (whose name means “the threads of God”), but for more than 300 years, the recipe and technique have only been passed down through the women in Abraini’s family – each of whom have guarded it tightly before teaching it to their daughters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut after an unexpected invitation to Abraini’s home, I found myself in her kitchen, watching her work.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI wasn’t her first guest, though. Last year, a team of engineers from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.barilla.com\u002F\"\u003EBarilla\u003C\u002Fa\u003E pasta came to see if they could reproduce her technique with a machine. They couldn’t. After hearing rumours about a secret Sardinian pasta, Carlo Petrini, the president of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.slowfood.com\u002F\"\u003ESlow Food International\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, visited this spring. And this summer, British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver stopped by to ask Abraini if she could teach him how to make the dish. After failing for two hours, he threw his hands up \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=rHGZLjJ1CAk\"\u003Eand said\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, “I’ve been making pasta for 20 years and I’ve never seen anything like this.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Many people say that I have a secret I don’t want to reveal,” Abraini told me, smiling. “But the secret is right in front of you. It’s in my hands.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESu filindeu is made by pulling and folding semolina dough into 256 perfectly even strands with the tips of your fingers, and then stretching the needle-thin wires diagonally across a circular frame in an intricate three-layer pattern. It’s so difficult and time-consuming  to prepare that for the past 200 years, the sacred dish has only been served to the faithful who complete a 33km pilgrimage on foot or horseback from Nuoro to the village of Lula for the biannual Feast of San Francesco. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I arrived, the October feast was three days away and Abraini had just finished making enough su filindeu to feed the 1,500 pilgrims expected to descend on Lula from throughout Sardinia. She worked five hours every day for a month to make 50kg of the pasta, and for the larger nine-day feast in May, she’ll prepare four times as much.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There are only three ingredients: semolina wheat, water and salt,” Abraini said, vigorously kneading the dough back and forth. “But since everything is done by hand, the most important ingredient is elbow grease.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAbraini patiently explained how you work the pasta thoroughly until it reaches a consistency reminiscent of modelling clay, then divide the dough into smaller sections and continue working it into a rolled-cylindrical shape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen comes the hardest part, a process she calls, “understanding the dough with your hands.” When she feels that it needs to be more elastic, she dips her fingers into a bowl of salt water. When it needs more moisture, she dips them into a separate bowl of regular water. “It can take years to understand,” she beamed. “It’s like a game with your hands. But once you achieve it, then the magic happens.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the semolina reached just the right consistency, Abraini picked up the cylindrical strand to stretch and fold the dough, doubling it as she pressed the heads of the su filindeu into her palms. She repeated this sequence in a fluid motion eight times. With each sweeping pull, the dough became thinner and thinner. After eight sequences, she was left with 256 even strands about half as wide as angel-hair pasta. She then carefully laid the strands on a circular base, one on top of another, to form a cross, trimming any excess from the ends with her fingers before repeating the process over and over.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen she’d formed three layers, she took the base outside to dry in the Sardinian sun. After several hours, the layers hardened into delicate sheets of white razor-thin threads resembling stitched lace. Abraini then broke the circular sheets into crude strips and packed them into boxes, ready for the San Francesco feast’s prior to place them in boiling sheep’s broth with grated pecorino and offer it as a thick soup to the pilgrims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“No one’s really sure how this ancient tradition started, but it’s at the heart of the festival,” Stefano Flamini, this year’s prior, told me. “If there’s no su filindeu, there’s no Feast of San Francesco.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut after more than 300 years in the same matrilineal family tree, these threads of God may need a miracle to survive for future generations. Only one of Abraini’s two daughters knows the basic technique, and lacks the passion and patience of her mother. Neither of Abraini’s daughters have daughters of their own. The two other women in Abraini’s family who still carry on the tradition are now both in their 50s and have yet to find willing successors among their own children.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This is one of the most at-risk foods of becoming extinct, in large part because it’s one of the most difficult pastas to make that exists,” said Raffaella Ponzio, head coordinator of Slow Food International’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fwhat-we-do\u002Fthe-ark-of-taste\u002F\"\u003EArk of Taste\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an initiative that aims to classify and preserve the world’s most endangered culinary traditions. Of the project’s 3,844 listed items, no other pasta is made by as few producers as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fark-of-taste-slow-food\u002Ffilindeu-2\u002F\"\u003Esu filindeu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – making it both the world’s rarest and most endangered pasta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Conserving su filindeu isn’t just a question of a culinary art form, but also a piece of cultural identity,” Ponzio added. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERecognizing this, Abraini has done something previously unheard of with her family’s tightly guarded dish: she attempted to teach girls in Nuoro from other families how to make it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It didn’t go well,” Abraini admitted. First, she approached the local government to see if she could open up a small school, but they told her there was no money. Then, she agreed to invite students into her home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The problem was that once they saw how I actually do it, they’d say, ‘It’s just too much work’, and wouldn’t come back,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, Abraini refuses to let the tradition fade away, making it her mission to share su filindeu with the world. In the last few years, Italy’s premier food and wine magazine, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gamberorosso.it\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003EGambero Rosso\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, has invited her to Rome twice so they can film her preparing the dish. Recently, she’s begun making su filindeu for three restaurants in the area – and in the process, offering non-pilgrims a chance to taste it for the first time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt one of those restaurants, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ristoranteciusa.it\u002F\"\u003EAl Ciusa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, her black squid-ink dyed su filindeu nero won Sardinia’s Porcino d’Oro prize for best dish in 2010.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt another, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.trattoriarifugio.com\u002F\"\u003EIl Refugio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it’s the most popular item on the menu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We have people coming from all over Europe just to taste it,” owner Silverio Nanu told me as I sampled the dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I shared that news with Abraini, her eyes danced with delight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You know, for me it’s a blessing just to be able to make su filindeu. I’ve been in love with it since the first time I ever saw it, and I love it more each day,” she said. “I hope to continue to make if for many years ahead – but if one day I have to stop, at least I’ll have a video.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcustom-made\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECustom Made\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that introduces you to custodians of cultural traditions all around the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=tvl.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called “If You Only Read 6 Things This Week”. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital, Travel and Autos, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EIf you can’t stay the night at Sebastiano Secchi’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.agriturismotestone.com\u002Ffile\u002Fhome_page.html\"\u003EAgriturismo Testone\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, at least pop in for dinner and taste the island’s best rendition of Abraini’s su filindeu pasta, served in mutton broth.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EAt the expertly run \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.trattoriarifugio.com\u002Fris_cont.php\"\u003EIl Rifugio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in downtown Nuoro, owner Silverio plays host out front while his son Francesco whips up su filindeu in the kitchen.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EUpscale \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ristoranteciusa.it\u002F\"\u003EAl Ciusa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E serves Nuoro’s only version of su filindeu nero, which Abraini invented by combining the pasta with squid ink.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"If you’re in Sardinia between 1-9 May or 1-4 October, follow the long line of pilgrims to the San Francesco church outside Lula. Otherwise, try it at these three restaurants:","calloutTitle":"Where to Try Su Filindeu","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2016-10-19T15:03:30Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The secret behind Italy’s rarest pasta","headlineShort":"The secret behind Italy’s rarest pasta","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"It's so difficult and time-consuming to prepare, that for 300 years only the women of a single Sardinian family knew how to make it.","summaryShort":"Today, there are only three women alive who know how to make su filindeu","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T22:50:39.15378Z","entity":"article","guid":"dec0b13c-6e7c-4a74-bde6-465e788d9d88","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T01:55:44.294962Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881478},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy","_id":"621e445345ceed6b6a4f5f73","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The country that created the Slow Food movement is now championing slow travel with an ambitious €35m, 13-year plan to connect all of Italy's 25 national parks.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a recent evening, Elia Origoni stood at Sardinia’s south-eastern tip, watching the azure sky darken until it merged with the sea, and contemplating the most daunting leg of his ambitious trip. In two days, he would set off on a 405km paddle across the Tyrrhenian Sea in hopes of becoming the first person to traverse Sardinia, Sicily and the entire length of Italy using only his feet, a rowboat and his prodigious stamina.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"His remarkable 7,000-plus km journey is helping to highlight a newly announced trail that will span the entire Italian peninsula","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's a combination of fantasy and really hard work,\" said Origoni, a mountain guide from northern Italy. He expects to cover 30km to 40km each day, walking and camping in Sardinia, rowing to and hiking through Sicily, and then rowing again to mainland Italy, where he will walk all the way to Muggia, a small town in the far north-eastern region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. Origoni's remarkable 7,000-plus km self-propelled journey is helping to highlight a newly announced trail that will span the entire Italian peninsula and will connect all of Italy's 25 national parks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm doing this without using Google Maps or a GPS because we're losing the value of being able to move without a phone in our hands. With a physical map, you have a much wider view of where you are; you discover your surroundings and how they connect,\" Origoni told me, confessing that the Sardinia-to-Sicily paddle gave him pause. \"The next four days will be the longest of my life, because I've never done this before. In the mountains, I move confidently; in the boat, it's a new challenge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eliaorigoni.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOrigoni\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who is making the arduous trip carrying just a 7kg backpack, is at the extreme end of a growing movement among young Italians. By embracing an ecologically friendly approach to tourism that emphasises connections with local cultures, the nation that birthed the world's Slow Food movement is increasingly championing slow, sustainable travel – and celebrating the beauty of its vast and largely unexplored wilderness in the process.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Sentiero dei Parchi will cross 20 regions, pass through six Unesco sites and stretch nearly 8,000km","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter Italy became the global epicentre for the coronavirus pandemic and imposed some of Europe's strictest \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fextra\u002Fdj3jonuhi1\u002Fcoronavirus-year-of-the-mask\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elockdown measures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E last spring, the Italian National Tourism Research Institute \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.isnart.it\u002Feconomia-del-turismo\u002Findagini-nazionali\u002Findagine-2020\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereported\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that more than 27 million Italians chose hiking trips for their summer holiday last year, with nearly half of Italians wanting an immersive nature holiday. The study, titled Covid Changes the Holidays of Italians, concluded, \"The fear of the virus… allowed Italians to discover and try a new way of going on vacation.\" The Italian financial newspaper Il Sole 24 Ore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ilsole24ore.com\u002Fart\u002Fitaliani-popolo-camminatori-e-trekking-l-attivita-piu-praticata-vacanze-2020-ADnic1CB\"\u003Etermed this trend\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"a paradigm shift caused by the need for social distance, the desire to visit small, uncrowded places and the need for air and movement\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn response, last May as restless Italians emerged from one of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.france24.com\u002Fen\u002F20200504-italy-starts-to-emerge-from-world-s-longest-nationwide-covid-19-lockdown\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworld's longest nationwide lockdowns\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Italy's Ministry of the Environment and the storied 158-year-old \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cai.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItalian Alpine Club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E announced an ambitious €35m, 13-year plan to extend Italy's existing \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsentieroitalia.cai.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESentiero Italia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the Grand Italian Route) by roughly 1,000km to form a new path connecting each of Italy's 25 national parks, including those on the islands of Sardinia and Sicily. When it's completed in 2033, the new route, known as the Sentiero dei Parchi (Path of the Parks) will cross each of the country’s 20 regions, pass through six Unesco World Heritage sites and stretch nearly 8,000km – twice the length of the US' Appalachian Trail and roughly 10 times the distance of the Camino de Santiago's complete St Jean Pied de Port to Galicia route.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe investment shows \"how much we care about our priceless heritage of biodiversity and its enhancement in terms of sustainable tourism, especially in this post-Covid recovery period when we all feel the need to be more outdoors,\" said Italy's Minister of the Environment, Sergio Costa, when he announced the initiative.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EConceived by a group of environmental journalists, the Grand Italian Route was completed in the 1990s but has been neglected in recent decades. Now, hikers, environmentalists and tourism officials are championing its new offshoot as a way to celebrate Italy's rural soul and expand many travellers' notions that the Italian landscape is limited to the rolling Tuscan countryside they see on postcards or screensavers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe birthplace of Alpine hay bathing\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210218-italys-best-forgotten-cities-and-towns\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrances Mayes on the enduring allure of Italy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn Italian town surrounded by Switzerland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, the Path of the Parks encompasses a veritable highlight reel of dramatic – if lesser-known – Italian vistas. Hikers can explore Sardinia's ancient cork forests; travel into the Apennine Mountains, Italy's mountainous backbone, and look for bear and fox in the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.parcoabruzzo.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAbruzzo, Lazio e Molise National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; search for hidden hermitages surrounded by beech forests in Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna; and come face to face with ibex in the snow-capped peaks that tower over Evian-clear lakes in the Alpine \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.pngp.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGran Paradiso National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Until now there has never been a national authority or study on the care and planning of the Italian hiking trail network,\" said Alpine Club vice president Antonio Montani. \"The work has always been carried out by volunteers who look after their own land free of charge or with occasional funds without a general vision. With this change, we hope that mountains, hiking trails and slow tourism can gain sufficient importance and dignity to be relevant at government level.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.schengenvisainfo.com\u002Fnews\u002Fcovid-19-absence-of-tourists-could-harm-italy-with-e36-7-billion-loss-wttc-says\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly expected to lose a devastating €36.7bn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from coronavirus-related tourism restrictions in 2020 and travellers potentially hesitant to cram back into Italy's many cities, museums and trattorias once international travel resumes, officials hope the new Path of the Parks will offer visitors a new, more Covid-friendly way to experience the \u003Cem\u003Ebel paese\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Officials hope the Path of the Parks will offer a new, more Covid-friendly way to experience the bel paese","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The impact of Covid on the tourism industry … has been significant,\" said Maria Elena Rossi, marketing and promotion director of the Italian National Tourist Board. \"[Italy] can benefit in the future from more diversified and innovative itineraries connected to outdoor activities, both slow and adventurous. The Path of Italian Parks connects communities, biodiversity and natural environment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESara Furlanetto, a photojournalist, echoes this point. \"Italy can’t just be known for cultural cities or the beautiful sea. It's much, much more. Most Italians are not aware that Italy is 70% mountains and hills. We wanted to shift the narrative and put the face of the mountains out front,\" she said of the hiking organisation she founded, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vasentiero.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVa' Sentiero\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBefore Covid, Furlanetto and her friends would post their Grand Italian Route hiking trips on their website and invite other outdoor enthusiasts to join them for all or part of the itinerary. Since 2016, Va' Sentiero has grown from a group of three intrepid friends to a forum for more than 2,000 fellow hikers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Now more than ever, thinking about the post-pandemic scenario, people want to reconnect with [nature],\" Furlanetto said. \"The Grand Italian Route is also a symbol for environmental protection, so it must be promoted with a slow approach. Right now, the trail crosses 16 out of the 25 national parks of Italy. I believe the idea of expanding the trail in order to reach the totality of the parks is of great value, and… can represent an important boost for the promotion of Italian natural areas.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Now more than ever ... people want to reconnect with [nature]","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESupporting local communities and encouraging multi-day hiking trips is critical to the path’s success said Montani. For now, much of the existing Grand Italian Route requires hikers to camp. But as part of the new €35m investment, Montani is working to develop a network of small hostels and bed and breakfast options at some of the stops within the national parks, as well as trails to accommodate wheelchair-bound travellers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We have a wealth of small artistic sites, like the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.santuariodioropa.it\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOropa Sanctuary\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the Alps, with frescoes from the 1500s,\" Montani said. \"Normally you'd think you have to go to Florence or Rome to see them, but if you love nature and you love art, these trails give you the possibility for both. Every 20km you get a different view, different kinds of cuisine, different cultural traditions.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat sense of discovery and wonder also inspires Francesco Paolo Lanzino, the mastermind behind \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwoodvivors.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWoodvivors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a seven-person group that recently started a six-month trip riding mules from the far southern Sicilian island of Pantelleria all the way to Turin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We're choosing to follow the Sentiero Italia because it really is a path linking every part of Italy, passing from some of the ancient and storied paths used since the time of Romans, Greeks and even before,\" he said. \"The Sentiero dei Parchi will open up new opportunities not only to explore these ancient routes, but to connect small villages along the way. The new paths show that we are not alone, but united through the rural roots of our historical connections.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlong the way, Lanzino and his team are going to shoot a documentary and television episodes about local culture, highlighting the often-overlooked regional farmers and artisanal wine and cheese producers so central to Italian culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We are looking to capture the traditions that were always passed orally from parents to children, and looking at what remains,\" Lanzino said. \"I'm convinced that from this past, which seems so far away but is still alive in rural parts of Italy, people can learn to build a more sustainable future.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne timeless tradition, so long a lure for tourists in Italy, is the country's warm hospitality. Though this has cooled by necessity in Covid-plagued cities, Origoni says the pre-pandemic social spontaneity is part of what is making his self-propelled trip so appealing. As he concluded a day of hiking and was looking for a spot to pitch his tent in rural Sardinia last month, a man saw him and invited him over for dinner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I went to his small country home and had dinner with him and his family. We had pasta, two glasses of wine and became friends. It was lovely,\" Origoni said. \"In Milan, we're under an orange alert, but in certain small rural areas, you can go back to socialising in a way that feels normal. To be welcomed by people feels great.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-05-18T22:44:56Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Sentiero dei Parchi: A new hiking trail uniting Italy","headlineShort":"The Italy most Italians don't see","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The country that created the Slow Food movement is now championing slow travel with an ambitious €35m, 13-year plan to connect all of Italy's 25 national parks.","summaryShort":"A new hiking trail aims to unite all 25 of Italy's national parks","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:06:13.451637Z","entity":"article","guid":"66d66755-355d-4ed0-aed8-ce9a82bc4b62","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:27:43.732535Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881478},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey","_id":"621d269d45ceed44e627db02","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famy-bizzarri"],"bodyIntro":"Obtained from the autumnal flowering of the strawberry tree on the island of Sardinia, corbezzolo honey isn't sweet and has a history that dates back more than 2,000 years.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECorbezzolo honey tricks the palate. Instead of the sweetness one would expect, this extremely rare honey, born in the mountains of the Italian island of Sardinia, is surprisingly bitter, with notes of leather, liquorice and smoke. Nomadic beekeepers have been setting up beehives in the region to collect this aromatic treat – derived from the white, bell-shaped flowers of the wild strawberry tree – for more than 2,000 years. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStatesman, lawyer and philosopher Marcus Tullius Cicero (106-43 BCE) mentioned the honey in his defence of a Roman citizen accused of murder in Nora, Sardinia. \"\u003Cem\u003EOmne quod Sardinia fert, homines et res, mala est! Etiam mel quod ea insula abundat, amarum est!\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Everything that the island of Sardinia produces, men and things, is bad!),\" he exclaimed. \"Even the honey, abundant on that island, is bitter!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Even the honey, abundant on that island, is bitter!","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps Cicero didn't know that beyond its bitterness, corbezzolo honey is packed with nutrients. Vitamin and mineral-rich, with anti-inflammatory properties, it's been prized by generations upon generations on an island known for the notably long lifespans of its inhabitants, many of whom \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fvideo\u002Fp08b8r8d\u002Fthe-italian-valley-that-holds-the-recipe-for-living-over-100\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elive to more than 100 years old\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUsed in traditional medicine as a sleep inducer, cough sedative and anti-diarrheal, thanks to its astringent and anti-inflammatory properties, it could also be anti-tumoral: A 2019 study conducted by researchers at the Polytechnic University of the Marche and the Universities of Vigo and Granada in Spain, published in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fabs\u002Fpii\u002FS1756464619302221?via%3Dihub\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJournal of Functional Foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, concluded that corbezzolo honey reduces growth and division of colon cancer cells grown in the lab.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe legend of the broadleaf \u003Cem\u003Ecorbezzolo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E shrub, known in English as the strawberry tree for its reddish-orange, strawberry-sized fruits, first appear in The Book of Days, Ovid's exploration of the ancient Roman calendar, written in the early 1st Century CE. According to Ovid, the Dea Carna, Roman goddess and protector of health, vitality and door hinges, saved the newborn heir of the ancient Latin city of Alba Longa by tapping the door of the child's house three times with the twig of a strawberry tree.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwmgs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Corbezzolo honey is obtained from the autumnal flowering of the strawberry tree","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERoman author, naturalist and philosopher Pliny the Elder gave the wild shrub its botanical name, \u003Cem\u003EArbutus Unedo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Apparently not a fan of the sour fruit, Pliny named it after the Latin expression \u003Cem\u003EUnum edo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: \"I'll only eat one.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECorbezzolo honey production was well established on the island by the Middle Ages. Eleanor of Arborea (1347-1404 CE), one of the era's most powerful judges, mandated heavy fines and, in worst-case scenarios, ear amputation for the theft of corbezzolo-collecting beehives, in her legal code Carta de Logu, which she wrote in the Sardinian language in 1392 CE. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe strawberry tree grows wild throughout the Mediterranean basin, Western Europe and even Ireland, though Sardinia holds the record for corbezzolo honey production.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe corbezzolo's fruits ripen slowly, changing colour several times during the process, from yellow to orange to ripe red. But it's the shrub's mildly sweet, white flowers – which bloom from October until December – that the bees pollinate and whose nectar they transform into a honey with an extraordinary flavour profile that encapsulates the smells and flavours of Sardinia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwmhy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Bees pollinate and collect nectar from the corbezzolo shrub's bell-shaped white flowers","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe flowers' petals unfold slowly; a curiously delicate process that a heavy downpour can easily bring to a halt. And because the flowering takes place in late autumn when the weather can be cold, rainy and windy, the bees sometimes struggle to even make it out of their hives to collect the precious nectar. The bell-shaped flowers produce about half as much nectar as other flowers, so the bees have to work extra hard to collect enough. These three key factors make corbezzolo honey so precious that it's hard to find outside Sardinia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENo one knows exactly what gives the honey its uniquely bitter taste, though some believe it's due to the presence of glycoside arbutin (a molecule that binds with sugars in plants) in the nectar of the strawberry tree's flowers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"No one knows exactly what gives the honey its uniquely bitter taste","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHoneys with complex flavour profiles like corbezzolo can be analysed as a sommelier analyses a fine wine. Indeed, Italy is home to a national registrar of honey sommeliers, trained by the Bologna-based \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.albomiele.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlbo Nazionale degli Esperti in Analisi Sensoriale del Miele\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the National Register of Experts in Sensory Analysis of Honey. Beyond its bitterness, corbezzolo honey features sharp notes of balsamic vinegar, pine tree sap, leather, liquorice and coffee with a lingering, smoky finish. It's often added to coffee to enhance the drink's bitter aromas. Deep amber in colour, it takes on a light brown hue upon crystallisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwmg2"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Corbezzolo honey is often drizzled on seadas, a typical Sardinian dessert","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd just like a fine wine, it also pairs perfectly with several traditional Sardinian dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's delightful when drizzled atop \u003Cem\u003Eseadas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or \u003Cem\u003Eorillettas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, two typical Sardinian desserts,\" said Fabio Pibiri, a Chicago-based wine importer from Sardinia. \"For an unforgettable pairing, pair with aged \u003Cem\u003Epecorino sardo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a sweet sheep's milk cheese, and Cannonau Nepenthe, an intense, captivating red wine produced in the province of Nuoro in central-west Sardinia.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EMiele corbezzolo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [corbezzolo honey] is a fascinating and unique product, and an integral part of Sardinian food culture well worth seeking out,\" said Letitia Clark, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.letitiaclark.co.uk\u002Fbook\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBitter Honey: Stories & Recipes from Sardinia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Pair it with an aged Vernaccia, a white wine from the [Sardinian] region of Oristano, yet another fascinating local product.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECorbezzolo honey encapsulates the Mediterranean island it calls home, with its earthy notes of other wild Sardinian flora and tinge of minerality, reflective of the surrounding sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqwmmy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Atop Sardinia's mountains, nomadic beekeepers set up beehives to collect honey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFamed Italian poet Giovanni Pascoli noted the colours of the Italian flag in the corbezzolo tree itself – green, glossy leaves, white flowers, red berries – and recalled its struggle to thrive on the windswept mountaintops in his 1906 Ode to the Corbezzolo:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EO verde albero italico, il tuo maggio è nella bruma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: \u003Cem\u003Es\u003C\u002Fem\u003E'\u003Cem\u003Eanche tutto muora\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, tu \u003Cem\u003Eil giovanile gonfalon selvaggio\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, \u003Cem\u003Espieghi alla bora\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\" \"Oh green Italian tree, your May month is in the mist: even if everything else dies, you, the youthful wild banner, unfold to the northern wind.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-01T19:45:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Italy's rare, surprisingly bitter honey","headlineShort":"Italy's rare, 2,000-year-old honey","image":["p0br1ps9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The honey is vitamin and mineral-rich, with anti-inflammatory properties","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"40.0582951","longitude":"7.8549239","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The honey is vitamin and mineral-rich, with anti-inflammatory properties","promoImage":["p0br1ps9"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180625-lorighittas-an-all-but-lost-sardinian-dish","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20161014-the-secret-behind-italys-rarest-pasta","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Obtained from the autumnal flowering of the strawberry tree on the island of Sardinia, corbezzolo honey isn't sweet and has a history that dates back more than 2,000 years.","summaryShort":"It's prized on an island known for notably long lifespans","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-28T19:46:20.437563Z","entity":"article","guid":"f1cec752-51c1-4a4f-b14d-d89ec92404ed","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-01T17:59:45.212243Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220228-italys-rare-surprisingly-bitter-honey","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fitaly"],"destinationStat":"europe_italy","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881477},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley","_id":"621e444c45ceed604f5b11b5","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In 2018, a hot, dry summer descended on the English Midlands, and as the waters of the Ladybower Reservoir fell, the lost village of Derwent emerged.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was all gone. The lanes of gritstone cottages, the church and old schoolhouse, the sheep grazing on hillsides and the sloping pastures. Derwent Valley Water Board had, despite protests, flooded the valley and the village of Derwent to provide water for the growing cities in the English Midlands. By 1945, Derwent village no longer existed and in its place lies a sheet of blue: Ladybower Reservoir.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter completing the dam needed to create the reservoir in 1943, rains, mountain run-off and rivers filled the valley – and slowly, the waters rose. From then on, nothing of Derwent was visible, except for the ghostly church spire that poked out of the reservoir during dry periods when the water level dropped.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt these times, locals would return to gaze at the eerie spectacle in morbid fascination, as if to remind themselves the village had once been a reality. Some swore they could hear the church bell ringing out across the waters – although the bell had been removed before the village was drowned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-derbyshire-46236792\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELadybower Reservoir's low water levels reveal abandoned village\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180104-ancient-romes-sinful-city-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe sinful city swallowed by the Earth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190704-vietnams-vast-underground-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA cave that could fit a skyscraper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBefore the two World Wars, Derwent and nearby Ashopton village had seemed as permanent as the Peak District moorlands above them, with their centuries-old stone buildings and long-established communities. The Water Board had earmarked an isolated area higher up the valley to create two initial dams and the Howden and Upper Derwent reservoirs, and the small number of residents from affected farms and smallholdings were moved down the valley to safety at Derwent and Ashopton. No-one dreamed that this part of the Derwent Valley, with its two beautiful villages, would soon be flooded, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECreating the first two reservoirs was a huge undertaking: relocating residents; organising a workforce; preparing the ground; laying pipes; building bridges and dam heads. A new, temporary village sprung up nearby to house the hundreds of workers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe town was named Birchinlee, nicknamed “Tin Town” as the buildings were made of corrugated metal – easy to both erect and dismantle after the reservoirs’ completion. Despite its short-lived existence, the model village had every facility: a hospital, school, canteen (that also served as a pub), post office, recreation hall, bath house and railway station. It even had a police station. By 1912, Howden was finished, and the Upper Derwent Reservoir below it, four years later. The hundreds of workers and their families packed up and left. Tin Town was dismantled, metal sheet by metal sheet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESoon, the Water Board realised that Howden and Upper Derwent reservoirs were not meeting the demands of the growing English Midland cities like Sheffield and Leicester. A third reservoir, Ladybower, was approved to be built further south, even though the villages of Derwent and Ashopton stood in the way of its construction – they would simply have to be flooded along with the valley. Work on Ladybower began in 1935, and the affected villagers were again relocated to other areas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy the time I moved to the Peak District in 2000, there was little evidence Birchinlee had ever existed. Undeterred, I set off one early summer’s day a few years ago in search of Tin Town, following a ruler-straight grassy path beside Howden Reservoir and on through trees where a railway track had once lain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere was no sign of the tin huts; only their stone foundations remained. However, information boards erected along the railway line clearing showed a series of black-and-white photographs of the temporary residents at work and at play in front of the tin huts, with explanatory captions beneath. There were pictures of navvies – the itinerant workers – busy on the construction sites, women and children washing clothes outside modest dwellings and families posing in surprisingly homely interiors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI learned that one of the huts had been reassembled in the nearby village of Hope, and found this last remnant of Tin Town squeezed between buildings down a side street, the tiny corrugated hut now a modest hairdresser. I was also able to hunt down the village packhorse bridge – a handsome humpbacked bridge – reassembled at Slippery Stones, where it spans the river at the head of Howden Reservoir. The bridge had been moved there, stone by stone before the flooding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHaving explored the sites of Birchinlee and Slippery Stones, I hoped the submerged ruins of Derwent would reveal themselves soon, as they sometimes do during dry spells. Derwent had made a brief appearance in the long, dry summer of 1976, and once in each of the following decades, most recently in 2003. Ashopton, the second sunken village, also lay undisturbed under the water, but I knew there was no chance of ever seeing it as it’s now buried beneath silt. But what remained of Derwent beneath Ladybower?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELuck was on my side. In 2018, a hot, dry summer descended on the area. The waters of the reservoir fell, and fell again, until the remaining stones of Derwent \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-derbyshire-46236792\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eemerged\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from the mud-caked banks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy the middle of September, the ruins of Derwent Church were exposed. Nearby, cottage doorways, hearths and lower walls revealed themselves. The reservoir level continued to drop and I could walk out to the ruins of the stately home of Derwent Hall, stepping gingerly across the muddy reservoir floor in the autumn sunlight. Among the rubble, an imposing stone fireplace with its rounded columns was still largely intact, and the building’s ornate gatepost rose out of the water behind it. Wandering through the debris, I imagined the lives that would have gone on within the big house’s walls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe path beyond the church that led to the school was also exposed, along with the little bridge that crossed the stream to the schoolhouse and its gateposts. There was an eeriness and melancholy in the piles of blackened stones. This sight was far removed from the sepia pictures I’d seen of the village: schoolchildren wandering along a leafy country lane in straw hats and smocks; boys loitering by a stream below cottages; villagers bent over the bridge in front of the big house. Old photos of Derwent Hall revealed a grand panelled drawing room and ornate ballroom.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWas there anyone left, I wondered, who remembered the lost villages of the Upper Derwent Valley? Someone who could breathe life back into the damp, crumbling ruins?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA friend pointed me in the direction of 92-year-old Mabel Bamford, who lives in the village of Bamford south of the reservoirs. Mabel welcomed me into her home with an energetic step and sparkling eyes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I may be the last person who remembers Ashopton and Derwent,” she said cheerfully.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I may be the last person who remembers Ashopton and Derwent","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBamford beckoned me to sit down, eager to begin her story.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When Rose Cottage in Ashopton came vacant, my parents moved there, and we lived in the village until 1938.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“What do you remember about life in Ashopton?” I asked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I remember our cottage was very simple. There was no electricity, just a paraffin lamp in the living room. Candles were used everywhere else. The loo was an earthen closet a long way from the house.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI nodded, recalling the accounts I’d read of villagers rehoused by the Water Board in homes with modern bathrooms. It had made the move easier.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“And what about Derwent village, Mabel? Do you remember it?”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Oh, yes, I was going to school there, even as the construction of Ladybower was underway. We had to walk one-and-a-half miles to Derwent. Sometimes the shooters and beaters in grouse season gave us a lift. But the rides we liked best were offered by the pipeline workers. They’d lift us inside the big black pipes they were constructing at the site of the reservoir,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI nodded. I had noticed the large pipes that span Ladybower at Fairholmes, where the visitor centre sits at the head of Ladybower. They were easily big enough to hold a child.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I remember in the cold weather there was always a fire lit at school,” Bamford continued. We’d bring a big potato with our initials carved into it and Teacher would bake them for us and make us cups of cocoa.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBamford told me more stories: of the policeman who came to her house to berate her for stealing apples; and of the excitement in Ashopton when the petrol station owners generated electricity with a windmill-like contraption. And how the Derwent young men walked to the Methodist Church at Ashopton to scrounge for food at their social gatherings, rechristened the “Bachelors’ Tea” as a result.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI left Bamford, feeling privileged to have heard her first-hand stories of the drowned villages. I’d been offered a glimpse into the past firstly with Derwent's reappearance, and again with Bamford.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne year on, the ruins of Derwent village have returned to the murky depths of Ladybower Reservoir. I’m now left wondering: will Derwent village stay hidden for another decade or more? Or with climate change, will its resurrection become a regular occurrence? I will have to wait and see.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fsunken-civilisation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESunken Civilisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that explores mythical underwater worlds that seem too fantastical to exist today but are astonishingly real.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-09-25T20:53:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The lost villages of the Derwent Valley","headlineShort":"The eerie remains of a drowned village","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In 2018, a hot, dry summer descended on the English Midlands, and as the waters of the Ladybower Reservoir fell, the lost village of Derwent emerged.","summaryShort":"Some swore they could still hear the church bell ringing","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:37:59.495781Z","entity":"article","guid":"99d95f5c-9bc3-43f5-b5c8-8900a5e3f48a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:57:04.020313Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881479},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom","_id":"621e445645ceed69f2673d16","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"According to medieval legend, an ancient forest and kingdom once flourished in Wales. Now, as the result of a recent storm, the myth has been brought back to life.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Off the beaten path","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBordered by the stunning landscapes of the Cambrian Mountains on one side and Cardigan Bay’s wild coastline on the other, it’s surprising that Mid Wales is often overlooked as a UK travel destination. However, a lack of infrastructure – and industry – within its rugged, barren plains and stark, craggy peaks has allowed it to remain relatively under the radar for visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe county of Ceredigion, located in the heart of Mid Wales, is arguably Wales at its most rural. Dotted with nature reserves and country lanes that are crisscrossed by cycling and walking routes, it’s as off-the-beaten-track for travellers as the tiny country gets. Perhaps even lesser known to visitors, though, is that it is believed to have once been home to a sunken ancient forest and mythical kingdom – one that has recently returned to the limelight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A land of myths and legends","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn the county of Ceredigion, Welsh legends dating to the Middle Ages tell of an ancient forest near the seaside villages of Borth and Ynyslas that once surrounded a kingdom. The forest stood on fertile ground and extended to around 20 miles west of the current shoreline between Ramsey Island and Bardsey Island into what is now Cardigan Bay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOne myth mentioned in the Black Book of Carmarthen, the earliest surviving complete manuscript written in Welsh, dating back to at least the 13th Century – tells how the forest was part of an ancient kingdom known as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fblogs\u002Fwaleshistory\u002F2012\u002F03\u002Flegend_of_cantrer_gwaelod.html\"\u003ECantre'r Gwaelod\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or the “Lowland Hundred”. Thought to be between 4,500 and 5,000 years old, the kingdom was said to be ruled by an affluent king named Gwyddno Garanhir who governed over at least 16 towns filled with bustling markets that served as commerce hubs for merchants and traders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Two princes and a maiden","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to legend, the land was fortified against the sea by a dyke that was looked after by two princes; however, one of them, named Seithenyn, got drunk and allowed water to enter the floodgates, drowning the forest and kingdom. Another legend tells of Mererid, a maiden in charge of the floodgates, who was amorously distracted by Seithenyn and thus unable to shut the gates when she needed to, allowing the water to pour in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile these stories have remained part of Wales' collective imagination for millennia, a violent storm in 2019 has brought them back to life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A ‘kingdom’ revealed","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn late April 2019, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-wales-48076233\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStorm Hannah\u003C\u002Fa\u003E battered Britain with wind gusts that reached more than 80mph, causing power cuts and travel disruptions across Wales. As the storm lashed the shores of Borth and Ynyslas, peat-covered tree remains that had been buried under the saltwater and sand for thousands of years re-surfaced. Some linked these ancient stumps to the forest of mythical Cantre'r Gwaelod.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPetrified stumps like these have been surfacing here and there in the area for a number of years, particularly in 2010 and 2014 when previous storms stripped away pebbles and sand from the coastline. However, Hannah caused a much larger stretch of the forest to be revealed, and each day since, during low tide, the sea reveals hundreds of eerie-looking stumps that appear like jagged jaws along the two-mile-long, black-sand beach.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Evidence of life","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EScientists have found that the submerged forest contains pine, alder, oak and birch tree stumps, which have all been preserved due to the lack of oxygen and high alkaline levels found in the bog. The living trees became gradually waterlogged with peat growth when the area was inundated by rising sea levels some 4,000-5,000 years ago. As the water level rose and a thick blanket of peat formed from natural sedimentation, the trees stopped growing and eventually died.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOld animal bones and a pair of deer antlers have been discovered here, too, suggesting that this stretch of land once flourished when the sea level was lower and before the area had completely succumbed to the ocean. Whether or not the forest is actually the one mentioned in the myth of Cantre’r Gwaelod, archaeologists believe there was life here dating back to at least the Bronze Age (3000 to 1200BC), in part because of the discovery of a timber walkway made of coppiced branches and upright posts (designed to cope with rising water levels) that’s thought to be between 3,100 and 4,000 years old.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EVarious other archaeological discoveries have been made here, including fossilised human and animal footprints preserved in the hardened top layer of peat, along with scatterings of burnt stones thought to be from ancient hearths. Due to this evidence of human settlement, the area is often referred to as “the Atlantis of Wales” in the media.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A pattern of storms","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EArchaeologists believe that extreme weather due to climate change is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-wales-49413435\"\u003Eexposing more ancient artefacts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E like those in Borth and Ynyslas. According to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.walesonline.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fwales-news\u002Fstunning-ancient-forest-welsh-beach-16309498\"\u003EWales Online\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Alun Hubbard, professor at Aberystwyth University’s department of geography and earth sciences, believes that the uncovering of the stumps might also be partly due to sea defences installed in Borth in 2012. While they have protected the village from crashing waves, they have also changed the continuous movement and of sand, pebbles and stones that have previously hidden the stumps from view.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOther submerged forests unearthed by recent storms have appeared at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-wales-south-west-wales-25716974\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENewgale beach in Pembrokeshire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-devon-26263856\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMount’s Bay in Cornwall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, both in 2014. In that same year, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fscience\u002F2014\u002Ffeb\u002F07\u002Foldest-human-footprints-happisburgh-norfolk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to the Guardian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, 850,000-year-old footprints considered to be the earliest evidence of humans outside of Africa were revealed by storms in Norfolk, England, and a fossil of an ichthyosaur (a marine reptile, meaning “fish lizard” in Greek) was unearthed – and narrowly avoided total destruction – after \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-dorset-25578510\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea storm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E crumbled cliffs and rocks along the Jurassic Coast of Dorset and East Devon in southern England.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyB\"\u003ENevertheless, the uncovering of the hundreds of petrified tree stumps by Storm Hannah has become perhaps the most talked about discovery locally, as historians and archaeologists now have more reason to think that the revealed forest may be linked to the myth of the Lowland Hundred as mentioned in The Black Book of Carmarthen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Where myths come alive","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe precious medieval manuscript is housed at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.library.wales\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Library of Wales\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Aberystwyth (pictured), while a facsimile copy can be viewed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.library.wales\u002Fdiscover\u002Fdigital-gallery\u002Fmanuscripts\u002Fthe-middle-ages\u002Fthe-black-book-of-carmarthen#?c=&m=&s=&cv=12&xywh=-481,0,2401,2041\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eonline\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Along with the famous Welsh folk song, The Bells of Aberdovey, which is also thought to refer to the story of Cantre’r Gwaelod, the references mentioned in the book have helped keep the legend alive. (The myth is so compelling to locals that some insist they can still hear the bells of a drowned church from Cantre’r Gwaelod on a quiet day.) Similarly, one of the stories in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fwales\u002Fhistory\u002Fsites\u002Fthemes\u002Fsociety\u002Fmyths_mabinogion.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Mabinogion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a book of Welsh stories compiled from oral traditions from the 11th Century and earlier – refers to the drowning of the kingdom that once lay between Wales and Ireland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile there are no historical records documenting an entire kingdom being swept away, scientists believe that land was lost to the sea when oceans gradually rose to their present levels, starting around 8,000 years ago, after ice cover from the most recent Ice Age diminished. Boulder clays and gravelly sands deposited by melting ice sheets then started to form beaches and shingle ridges, which shifted over wooded areas along the coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"For curious visitors","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yha.org.uk\u002Fhostel\u002Fyha-borth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThe petrified forest is located 7km north of the town of Aberystwyth along Borth and Ynyslas beaches, and visitors can find the most stumps just north of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yha.org.uk\u002Fhostel\u002Fyha-borth\"\u003EYHA Borth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. They’re most visible at low tide (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.metoffice.gov.uk\u002Fweather\u002Fspecialist-forecasts\u002Fcoast-and-sea\u002Fbeach-forecast-and-tide-times\u002Fgcm4esk8g%23?date=2020-03-10\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Met Office\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a good resource for tidal timing).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe numerous \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.salopleisure.co.uk\u002Fcaravan-parks\u002Fsearch\u002Fmid-wales-coastal\u002Fborth\u002F1421\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecaravan parks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E surrounding Borth and Ynyslas beaches make a good base from which to explore the region’s jaw-dropping coastline. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitwales.com\u002Fthings-do\u002Fnature-landscapes\u002Fdiscover-wales-coast-path\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWales Coast Path\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the first footpath in the world to follow a country’s coastline in its entirety, is a breathtaking 870-mile-stretch of some of the best walks in Wales.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENearby, midway between Aberystwyth and Machynlleth, the 2,000-hectare \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnaturalresources.wales\u002Fdyfiynyslas?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDyfi National Nature Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is the only Unesco biosphere reserve in Wales and is home to the Dyfi Estuary and Ynyslas sand dunes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The myths live on","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Cantre’r Gwaelod still undoubtedly lives on through myths, legends and fantasy, the petrified trees uncovered at Borth and Ynslas point to some truths. After all, the ancient trees show proof of a previous life existing under the sea. But perhaps more importantly, they are also connecting a new generation to the tales of their ancestors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fsunken-civilisation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESunken Civilisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that explores mythical underwater worlds that seem too fantastical to exist today but are astonishingly real.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom-17"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-03-19T22:34:01Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"How a storm revealed a Welsh kingdom","headlineShort":"The 'Atlantis of Wales', rediscovered","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"According to medieval legend, an ancient forest and kingdom once flourished in Wales. Now, as the result of a recent storm, the myth has been brought back to life.","summaryShort":"A recent storm has brought an ancient myth back to life","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:24:27.938177Z","entity":"article","guid":"3865beee-bf2a-4b05-b487-6a7e833220f6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:06:00.10161Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881479},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames","_id":"621e444f45ceed69eb579aa8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"“Mudlarks” play a vital role in preserving London’s history by picking up objects washed out of the River Thames’ mud, from woolly mammoth teeth to Roman lamps to Tudor rings.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a chilly and dark morning as I exited the train station at Wapping in East London. Under the orange glare of streetlights, I changed my trainers for a pair of dirty wellies. People walking in the other direction, heading to work in business clothes, stared as I pulled on my plastic gloves. My office for the morning awaited so I turned down a narrow alleyway and carefully made my way down an uneven flight of steps, slick with green river weeds. Today I was going “mudlarking”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you find yourself crossing one of London’s busy bridges and look down, you may notice that the height of the Thames changes dramatically over the course of the day: the tidal river can rise and fall by as much as 7m. When the tide is out, you may see people scurrying down hidden stairs, ladders and slipways to trudge along the foreshore. These are “mudlarks” – and they play a vital role in preserving the history of the Thames by picking up objects and artefacts lodged in the river’s mud.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Thames is especially rich in small portable finds; it’s not only their quantity but their quality that makes Thames finds so important","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWalking along the foreshore of the Thames in central London is not everyone’s idea of a hobby – it can be cold, dirty and just as muddy as mudlarking suggests. Historically, being a mudlark was not a desirable station in life. The terms came about in the Georgian and Victorian periods when the Thames was one of the major routes to transport goods into the city. At this time, the banks of the river would have swarmed with the melancholy figures of mudlarks, mostly poor women and children who would be “up with the larks” to work whenever the river ran low.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs the tide dropped, they would wade into the mud to grab lumps of coal, pieces of rope or anything else careless boatmen had dropped overboard that they could sell. Mudlarks were a chiefly London phenomenon because few port cities had as large, exposed riverbanks where they could descend to do their work. In addition, the mud of the Thames is anaerobic – having very low levels of oxygen – so is perfect for preserving organic material that would otherwise rot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite its humble origins, mudlarking is undergoing a renaissance. It has never been easier for people to explore the Thames: anyone looking for inspiration just has to follow the mudlarking hashtags on Twitter, Instagram or Facebook. The \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.thamesdiscovery.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThames Discovery Programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a group of historians and volunteers, run guided tours of the foreshore where “expert guide[s] will point out fascinating archaeology hiding in plain sight like Saxon fish traps and jetties that once led to Tudor palaces… and [ensure] that you stay safe and stick to Port of London Authority rules,” said Josh Frost, senior community archaeologist with Thames Discovery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile these tours are a great introduction to communal mudlarking, most mudlarks are solitary creatures and can often be found on their own, staring at the stones beneath their feet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of the surprise best-selling books of 2019 was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomsbury.com\u002Fuk\u002Fmudlarking-9781408889213\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMudlarking: Lost and Found on the River Thames\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Lara Maiklem, who stumbled into mudlarking almost by accident. “One day I found myself at the top of one of the river stairs looking down onto the foreshore and I decided to go down,” she wrote. “For some reason, until then, I'd thought of the foreshore as a forbidden space, sometimes revealed, other times covered over with water. I found my first object that day, a short piece of clay pipe stem, and I was hooked.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy story was similar. Always tempted to play the archaeologist as a child, I dreamed of striking it rich by finding \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170926-the-lost-jewels-of-bad-king-john\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKing John’s lost golden treasure\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that sank in a river. One day, long after I should have given up such fancies, I read about mudlarking online. I ran down to the Thames and pulled out my first treasure: a broken clay pipe last smoked by someone in the 18th Century. Now I can be found under London Bridge looking for Roman pottery; in Rotherhithe searching for industrial relics; and around Putney for prehistory. The joy of mudlarking is that you never know what might turn up or where.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBritain's lawless 'fourth' country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200527-the-tree-that-changed-the-world-map\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tree that changed the world map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200507-foods-you-can-forage-from-your-own-garden\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA British feast from garden weeds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Thames is one of the greatest and largest archaeological sites in the world, and the entire history of Britain can be told from items found on the foreshore. Many objects in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museumoflondon.org.uk\u002Fmuseum-london\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseum of London\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have labels giving their provenance as “Discovered in the Thames”."},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EMudlarks must get a license from the Port of London Authority. For a minimal fee, covering three years, this allows you to search in the mud and stones of the Thames and dig up to 7.5cm deep.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhatever you uncover must be declared to Finds Liaison Officers and belongs to the Port of London Authority, but if not deemed of historical significance you may keep what you find.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Mudlarking rules","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"Even a cursory glance at the river will reveal broken pottery pieces, shards of glass and twisted pieces of metal, and mudlarks have discovered everything from woolly mammoth teeth to Roman lamps to Tudor rings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGiven the lack of funding in archaeology in the past few years, the amateur eyes of mudlarks have been incredibly helpful in pointing out fragile structures emerging from the mud, with the Portable Antiquity Scheme (PAS) having just recorded its 1,500,000th archaeological discovery made by members of the British public.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“It is tremendously important that mudlarks report their finds to the Portable Antiquities Scheme in accordance with the terms of their licence, no matter how trivial or mundane they seem,” said Stuart Wyatt, Finds Liaison Officer for the London area, who assesses and records the artefacts found by mudlarks for the PAS.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The Thames is especially rich in small portable finds; it’s not only their quantity but their quality that makes Thames finds so important. The preservation of lead, leather and bone artefacts is especially good, whether a Roman bone hair pin or a 17th-Century child’s pewter toy. These artefacts are often lost on land sites due to adverse soil environments, but the anaerobic qualities of the Thames foreshore preserve them.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, mudlarking can be a risky hobby. When the tide turns, it turns fast. You must always be aware of your route off of the foreshore. The mud is another hazard: on one of my first mudlarking trips, a more experienced mudlark told me how he had once fallen into a pit left in the mud. He was lucky to have a bucket to claw his way out – though the Tube ride home was a little dirty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut it’s the mud of the Thames that makes mudlarking so rewarding. The layers of dirt contain artefacts from every stage of London’s history and pre-history. Liz Anderson, a mudlark who \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Famudlarksdiary.wordpress.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eruns a blog about her finds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, once pulled a 2,000-year-old Roman nit comb from the mud. “The comb is made of boxwood and what I love about it is that it's almost exactly the same design as these things still are today,” she told me. “It also has mud between the teeth, in which almost certainly there may still lurk Roman nits. When I found it, it was in such good condition it looked like it had only been dropped yesterday.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the river meanders through the centre of the city, untold interesting stories are constantly revealed. On a small patch of foreshore in Rotherhithe in south-east London, you can see tumbled red bricks where the buildings levelled by the Luftwaffe in World War Two fell into the river. Beside those bricks are myriad rusting nails, screws and ship plates left from a time when Rotherhithe was known as a ship-breaking site in the 19th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Even if I don't find much that day, I love the peace the river brings","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENearby is a row of wooden jetty supports. Looking closely, you might notice one is somewhat different: instead of rotting from the outside, it is hollow. This post is not made of wood but is a whale rib. From the 1720s, whaling ships ferried their blubbery trophies into Greenland Dock where the whale fat could be rendered down into useful oils. Whale bones found their way into many products, but sometimes, as here, they were used whole if builders found themselves short of timber.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese items are all on a stretch of the Thames no more than 100m long.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMudlarking is not all about the physical objects you find on the river, however. Anderson speaks poetically of the joys of being on the foreshore. “I instantly forget any anxieties or problems that I have for the few hours or so that I'm down by the river,” she said. “Even if I don't find much that day, I love the peace the river brings – the wildlife, birds, boats going past, the sounds, the way the light reflects on the water, the changing landscape on whatever part of the Thames foreshore I happen to be mudlarking on that day. Even on a cold, windy or wet weather day, it’s very invigorating.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut on a brisk morning, when you are up with the larks and a freezing wind is blowing along the grey Thames and no finds are turning up, it can be hard to stay cheerful. Once all I discovered was a used condom and a discarded belt. But the rich possibilities of the Thames continue to draw mudlarks back.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Anderson, “A dream find for me would be a Neolithic flint tool... It's lovely to find coins and things, but you can't beat finding something like a flint tool because of [its] age and how special [it is] to find and hold. Some of them are so beautifully worked and crafted.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaiklem is searching for an item with a story to tell. “My dream find is a complete medieval St Thomas Becket pilgrim badge,” she said. The pewter relics were produced in huge numbers as souvenirs at Becket’s shrine in Canterbury, and you can imagine one of Chaucer’s pilgrims accidentally losing theirs on the way back into old London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe longer you mudlark, the more you want to find. “It is addictive,” Maiklem warned me. But the bug has already bitten me – even if I do still dream of finding golden treasure in the Thames.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Funearthed\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnearthed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that searches the world for newly discovered archaeological wonders that few people have ever seen.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-30T04:12:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The lost treasures of London’s River Thames","headlineShort":"A London river awash with treasure","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"“Mudlarks” play a vital role in preserving London’s history by picking up objects washed out of the River Thames’ mud, from woolly mammoth teeth to Roman lamps to Tudor rings.","summaryShort":"Thousands of people walk beside the Thames, but few stop to look closely","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:52:57.353611Z","entity":"article","guid":"261f9f22-4ff1-43d6-91ab-ba8762b0befb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:13:23.226212Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881479},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea","_id":"621e445645ceed69e04dbc56","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flizzie-enfield"],"bodyIntro":"The thriving port town of Dunwich was lost to storms in the 13th Century. But scientists recently have discovered that it wasn't lost at all – it's simply underwater.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EMidway between the town of Aldeburgh and the seaside resort of Southwold, two popular spots on Britain's Suffolk coast, lies the quiet rural village of Dunwich. Around 200 people live in this one-road settlement with its cosy pub\u002FB&B, local museum, long gravel beach and monastery ruins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EYou wouldn't know it now, but in the Middle Ages the village was a thriving port the size of the City of London's square mile, built on fishing, trade and religious patronage. Greyfriars Monastery was established by Franciscan monks in the 1250s on lower-lying ground closer to the sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EBut a massive storm in 1286 swept away the monastery, along with many homes and other buildings. The crumbling stone walls you can visit today are the remains of the \"new\" friary, rebuilt in the late 13th Century on land half a mile from the sea. They now stand perilously close to the edge of the cliffs – illustrating how storms, surges and coastal erosion turned the tide on thriving Dunwich, some of which was later built on higher ground.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8858"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The remains of a 13th-Century monastery, built to replace the one swept away by the sea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the intervening years a legend arose that the medieval town remained intact below the surface of the water: Britain's very own \"Atlantis\". Locals have even claimed that at certain stormy times you can hear the church bells ringing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This stretch of coastline has a ghostly quality,\" said novelist Esther Freud, great-granddaughter of Sigmund, who lives in nearby Walberswick; her grandparents migrated to the area after fleeing Nazi Germany. \"Walking along the shoreline on a misty day, you feel the past and present intermingled in this strange liminal space between land and sea.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This stretch of coastline has a ghostly quality","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EExperts, however, thought the old town would have long ago been broken up by the waves and washed away. That is, until evidence began to emerge that this legend of \"Britain's Atlantis\" was not just a fanciful tale, but that medieval Dunwich – in at least some of its former glory – was out there, just metres from the shore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8bv3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The quiet town of Dunwich was once a thriving medieval port","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom around the 1960s, fishermen began to report nets snagging on something below the surface of the water where the old town used to stand. These reports prompted local marine archaeologist and diver Stuart Bacon to search for the remains of the last church to be taken by the sea: All Saints, which finally tumbled from the cliffs in 1911.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the North Sea is hostile and usually has almost zero visibility, Bacon persisted. On a rare clear day in 1972, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvimeo.com\u002F134511265\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehe saw the church's tower looming through the water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – covered in pink sponges and crawling with crabs and lobsters. A subsequent dive also revealed the ruins of another church, St Peter's.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut it wasn't until several decades later that a full survey of the seabed provided a much fuller picture of what lay beneath the waves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8ccy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A map put together by Sear’s team shows where the 16th-Century coastline would have been","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDavid Sear, professor at the University of Southampton's Department of Geography and Environmental Science, grew up holidaying in Dunwich as a child. \"Thirty or so years later I became interested in using the latest sonar technology to map riverbeds and suddenly my childhood interest in this mythical lost city and my academic interests came together,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy digitising an existing 16th-Century map of the town, which showed Dunwich as it would have been, Sear was able to pinpoint where some of the structures of the lost town might be found. In 2008, he hired a crew and took out a sonar-equipped boat and began his technological search of the seabed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8cpm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Guided by sonar, divers looked for the ‘lost’ city of Dunwich","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe still remembers that moment when the boat neared the first possible site. \"Everyone went very quiet when we came up towards the first site and waited,\" he said. \"Then suddenly there was a ping as the sonar detected something and, on the bank of computer screens in the cabin, we saw chunks of masonry appearing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd then it kept happening.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Everyone went very quiet when we came up towards the first site and waited","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWithin a square mile just off the shore of modern Dunwich, Sear and his team were able to locate medieval Blackfriars monastery, St Nicholas Church, St Peter's Church, All Saints, St Katherine's Chapel and chunks of masonry that could have been the town hall and various port buildings. The mythical lost town of Dunwich was not lost at all, but lying on the seabed – almost exactly where the Tudor map maker and the old storytellers claimed it would be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8d54"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"St Katherine’s Chapel appears on the seabed hundreds of years after being ‘lost’","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EThe story of Dunwich is not unique. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.dunwich.org.uk\u002Fresources\u002Fdocuments\u002Fdunwich_12_report.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThere are more than 300 settlements in the North Sea basin that have been lost\u003C\u002Fa\u003E over the last 900 years due to coastal erosion or flooding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EDunwich, however, was the largest of the lost towns. A reconstructed model at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.dunwichmuseum.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDunwich Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E allows you to see it as it probably looked in its heyday. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Dunwich boasted about 10 churches, two friaries (Blackfriars and Greyfriars) and its port and daily market made it a very important trading post and centre for ship building,\" said museum manager Jane Hamilton. \"Dunwich merchants were rich men, profiting from the wine, stone, wool and salt trades. Their prosperity would have been reflected in the buildings in which they lived, making Dunwich an outwardly wealthy place.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EBut its success was threatened by its geography. Dunwich was established on the estuary and mouth of the Dunwich River, which allowed trade to flourish. The northern part of the town was built on low-lying ground close to the river, while the centre was built on the higher ground to the south, where the soil was made of highly erodible sands and gravels. Severe storms in the 1280s and 1320s destroyed buildings and blocked the harbour on which trade depended. The lower lying areas were inundated during storms and storm surges, while the higher ground was eroded as the cliffs collapsed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8dp0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Imaging of masonry from St Peter’s from the explorations done by Sear and his team","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EThe way in which these two parts of the town were destroyed is directly related to the remains that have, so far, been found. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\"While we discovered the buildings that had fallen from the cliffs landed in pretty much the same spot, albeit broken into chunks, the earlier, low-lying part of the town is more likely to have been submerged\" with building foundations relatively intact, said Sear. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EOffshore, the Dunwich bank (a mobile sand bank) is moving landwards as the coastline rolls back. \"The tantalising possibility is that as the cliffs recede further and the sandbank migrates inshore, we should start to see some of these earlier buildings gradually exposed. These are likely to be much more intact,\" Sear said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EIt's an exciting prospect and one that could bring visitors back to Dunwich in numbers not seen since its zenith. However, it may not be for some time. While it's impossible to know when this reveal could happen, scientists estimate not for at least another 50 years, perhaps longer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0br8f39"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"As the sandbank off Dunwich migrates inshore, some of the ‘lost’ medieval buildings might be exposed","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EAnd alongside the thrill of its rediscovery and the possibility of more to come, there is a cautionary tale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\"What we have here is the story of a community failing to deal with rapid changes in its circumstances,\" warned Sear. \"We will see this happening in other places around the world as communities reach a tipping point beyond which they can no longer absorb series of continuous knocks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EHe added: \"In the 1120s everyone wanted to invest in Dunwich, but by 1270 the damage to infrastructure and the blocking of the port led to loss of revenue. Soon people began pulling out and trading elsewhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003EAs we grapple with the global impact of climate and socio-economic change, the tale of Dunwich is not just a ghostly story of the past. The ghosts of the present and future are woven through it too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea-18"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fhidden-britain"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-28T10:47:45Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Dunwich: The British town lost to the sea","headlineShort":"Is this Britain's 'Atlantis'?","image":["p0br88nk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The thriving port town of Dunwich was lost to storms in the 13th Century","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"52.2753981","longitude":"1.6185666","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The thriving port town of Dunwich was lost to storms in the 13th Century","promoImage":["p0br88nk"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The thriving port town of Dunwich was lost to storms in the 13th Century. But scientists recently have discovered that it wasn't lost at all – it's simply underwater.","summaryShort":"Scientists have discovered that it's more than just a legend","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-27T21:00:12.832433Z","entity":"article","guid":"0e00125b-1be5-4403-887a-ecc634b0b88e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T21:00:12.832433Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220227-dunwich-the-british-town-lost-to-the-sea","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881479},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador","_id":"621e445045ceed6b71383383","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In the town of Cotacachi, Ecuador, which bustles with more than 50 leather artisans and shops, one family still holds on to a centuries-old tanning recipe.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA strong smell of salt, leather and wet fur permeated the tiny workshop where Luis Yamberla Cacuango was busy working on an intricate leather belt pattern.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOut in the spacious back yard, cowhides, llama pelts and goat skins were in various stages of processing. Stacked and covered in salt, steeping in lime or tanning in a large barrel, the skins and hides were being worked on with simple tools: a smooth stone to scrape the remaining meat from a raw hide; stone and wood barrels to hold and process the skins. As Yamberla and his father, Luis Sr, busied themselves in the workshop, Yamberla’s mother Maria Virginia offered me some of her homemade \u003Cem\u003Echicha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a drink made of fermented corn and wheat, then carried on brushing a sheepskin and chatting to her granddaughters and nieces in her native Quichua.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181115-switzerlands-artfully-tedious-job\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA craft kept alive by 10 Swiss masters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180917-the-rarest-fabric-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe rarest fabric on Earth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180515-in-india-gambling-with-bows-and-arrows\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe lottery keeping a culture alive\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECotacachi, a small, quiet mountain town in Ecuador’s Imbabura Province, is famous for its leather artisans who offer various items around the plaza de armas (main square) and in the surrounding streets, kiosks, stalls and shops. Beautifully decorated saddles and bridles, jackets, bags and purses, souvenirs and shoes – in Cotacachi, leather is everywhere. This town has been making leather products for hundreds of years, largely because of the surrounding cattle and dairy farms that used to be a primary source of raw hides. “Now, most of the leather, already processed, arrives from the nearby town of Ambato or as far as Colombia to save costs,” Yamberla told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnlike other leather artisans in the Imbabura Province, Yamberla buys his raw hides from local farmers instead of wholesale sellers, refuses to use chemicals and prefers an ancient highland recipe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“My father taught me everything I know. We collect the \u003Cem\u003Ehuarango\u003C\u002Fem\u003E tree seeds and boil them to get a dark liquid, which is a perfect natural leather tanner,” Yamberla explained as he showed me around the family workshop. This ancient recipe has been passed down through generations, and, according to Yamberla, he and his family are the only ones in Cotacachi still working with it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUsing a chemical process, prepared hides can be tanned in 24 hours. Yamberla’s father’s recipe takes a month. “It’s much longer, and everything is done by hand, but we prefer it this way. We’re proud to be highlanders, and we want to preserve our Andean traditions of tanning leather,” Yamberla told me. Just like Maria Virginia, he and his father converse in their native Quichua language, and both wear their hair long, in the local style the of indigenous Otavaleño people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELife wasn’t always so tranquil for Yamberla’s family, though: historically, the indigenous people of Ecuador were frequently victims of oppression. Yamberla’s father still remembers the\u003Cem\u003E huasipungo \u003C\u002Fem\u003Efeudal system and working for white or \u003Cem\u003Emestizo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (mixed heritage) landlords (he joked that nowadays nobody beats him any longer, except for his wife Maria Virginia), whereas Yamberla recalls more recent incidents of prejudice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Whenever I had to go out and find jobs to support my family, white or mestizo co-workers would mock my long hair saying I looked like a girl, or that I ‘wore my tie backwards’, pointing at my braid,” he said quietly. “Not too long ago, when an indigenous man ran for mayor in Cotacachi, most folk said an Indian should not be put in a position of power as it would be ‘unnatural’ for him to give orders to whites.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We’re proud to be highlanders, and we want to preserve our Andean traditions","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat indigenous candidate, Auki Tituaña Males, was elected nonetheless in 1996 and became Cotacachi’s first indigenous mayor. After significantly reducing illiteracy in Cotacachi, among other successes, Tituaña was re-elected in 2000 and 2004, and has since won two prestigious international awards: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fmirror.unhabitat.org\u002Fbp\u002Fbp.list.details.aspx?bp_id=4061\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUN-Habitat Dubai International Award for Best Practices\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fportal.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Fev.php-URL_ID=4830&URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECTION=201.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco’s ‘City of Peace’ prize\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for his work on indigenous integration and sustainable development.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Before the ‘90s, if you looked at the data gathered in the Ecuadorian census, most people identified as ‘white’ or ‘mestizo’, and most indigenous people would try and position themselves as ‘mestizo’ if they had a tiniest drop of mixed blood. After 1994 or thereabouts, this started to change: people began reclaiming their origins, and when the next census came, they put themselves as ‘indigenous’. Now, they not only identify as indigenous but also emphasise the precise \u003Cem\u003Eruna\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or community, that they are from such as Shuar or Quichua,” said Jean Brown, a culture and permaculture coordinator who is originally from the UK.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHaving spent more than 40 years living in Ecuador and working with various cultural projects involving indigenous communities, Brown says the change in indigenous pride is palpable all over the country – but especially Cotacachi, where a large proportion of the population is indigenous.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The Ecuadorian indigenous people got educated, learned to organise themselves, began political work. It’s a very different atmosphere now, compared to 20 or 30 years ago,” Brown said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYamberla’s father’s tannery is living proof of the changing times. Instead of selling cheaply made souvenirs to tourists, Yamberla’s family makes costumes for the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ecuador.com\u002Fblog\u002Finti-raymi-a-celebration-of-life\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInti Raymi festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an annual indigenous festival of the sun that takes place at the end of June. He also loves making horse and cattle whips, belts, drums – things that local people need and use. \"We are beginning to rediscover our roots and are proud of who we are,” Yamberla said as he finished the belt. “Here, see, this is Aya Uma, the spirit of the Inti Raymi… and here, these are the 13 lunar months,” he explained, showing me the decorations on an exquisite handmade festival costume.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough Yamberla and his family have a unique trade, they barely make ends meet. Their shop is on a quiet, narrow street towards the outskirts of town, where tourists rarely come, and is mainly frequented by people from the local indigenous communities. Yamberla charges about $20 for a cattle whip, $60 for a pair of the traditional fur trousers used in the Inti Raymi, and around $120 for a large, fully processed cowhide. To make ends meet, he must sometimes get temporary construction jobs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s unfortunate that the Ecuadorian government isn’t supporting traditional arts and crafts more. When it comes to tourism, Ecuadorians think tourists want nice, air-conditioned hotels and modern restaurants. But in reality, travellers are a lot more interested in seeing authentic people and things – including the ancient leather tanning techniques, or guitar or saddle makers,” Brown explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYamberla agrees. “Maybe one day, I can have a tourist for an apprentice,” he joked as he helped his father bring in the wooden boards holding stretched-out hides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-12-06T21:34:22Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The ancient leather tanners of Ecuador","headlineShort":"The end of a native tradition?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In the town of Cotacachi, Ecuador, which bustles with more than 50 leather artisans and shops, one family still holds on to a centuries-old tanning recipe.","summaryShort":"It’s living proof of the changing times","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:26:33.649448Z","entity":"article","guid":"e3260bd4-0e68-4fbe-956c-6c95a1cccb0d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:35:11.511572Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881480},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","_id":"621e445445ceed6b69086df1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A deceptively simple feat of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Index\"\u003EIn the 15th and early 16th Centuries, a small island in Lake Titicaca was one of South America's most important religious sites. Revered as the birthplace of the Sun, the Moon and the Inca dynasty, Isla del Sol (\"Island of the Sun\") drew pilgrims from across the Andes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few years ago, I followed in their footsteps, catching a boat from the Bolivian town of Copacabana across the choppy, gunboat-grey lake, which sits an altitude of 3,812m, making it the only place on the planet a traveller can \"suffer from sea-sickness and mountain-sickness at the same time\", according to British explorer Percy Harrison Fawcett, who visited in the early 1900s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter docking on Isla del Sol's north-east coast, I followed a centuries-old trail past a host of Inca and pre-Inca ruins – \u003Cem\u003Etambos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (waystations), shrines, temples, plazas, altars and a ceremonial complex that includes Titikala, a slab of sandstone from which Andean creator god Viracocha is said to have brought forth the Sun and the Moon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"These deceptively simple feats of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECaptivated by the ancient sites and the views of the snow-streaked Cordillera Real in the distance, I paid little attention to the terraced fields snaking along the hillsides of the island. Yet these deceptively simple feats of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKnown as \u003Cem\u003Eandenes \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(Spanish for \"platforms\"), these terraced fields are scattered across the central Andes. First constructed around 4,500 years ago by ancient cultures across the region, they were perfected by the Inca, who emerged in the 12th Century and were masters of adopting and adapting techniques, strategies and belief systems from other societies. Andenes, says Cecilia Pardo Grau, curator of the British Museum's current \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britishmuseum.org\u002Fexhibitions\u002Fperu-journey-time\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPeru: a journey in time exhibition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, were \"a creative way of defying the terrain… that allows for an efficient way of growing [crops]\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Ruins of Choquequirao on steep forested hill, Cusco, Peru","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThey allowed Andean communities to overcome challenging environments, including steep slopes, thin soils, extreme and sharply fluctuating temperatures, and scant or seasonal rainfall. Fed by artificial pools and elaborate irrigation systems, andenes significantly expanded the area of cultivable land. They also conserved water, reduced soil erosion and – thanks to stone walls that absorbed heat during the day and then released it at night – protected plants from severe frosts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis enabled farmers to grow dozens of different crops, from maize and potatoes to quinoa and coca, many of which would not otherwise have survived in the region. The upshot was a dramatic increase in the overall amount of food produced.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's empire crushed by water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious secret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond their ingenuity, andenes also have an artistic quality, forming vast geometric patterns on the landscapes of the Andes. Some look like giant green staircases carved into the mountainside, while others are made up of sets of concentric circles, capturing the attention like an optical illusion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the most impressive is the Peruvian archaeological site of Moray, which resembles a natural amphitheatre. Located around 50km north of the former Inca capital of Cuzco and 3,500m above sea level, it demonstrates how andenes were used to create a range of microclimates. Thanks to the varying designs, sizes, depths and orientations of the terraces, the temperature differential between the highest and lowest is around 15C. Moray has been described as an \"agricultural research station\": soil samples from across the empire have been discovered here and researchers argue the Inca may have used the site to experiment with practices like crop rotation, domestication and hybridisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESophisticated agricultural techniques such as andenes played a vital role in the expansion of the Inca empire, which was known as Tawantinsuyu and spanned much of modern-day Peru, western Bolivia, south-west Ecuador, south-west Colombia, north-west Argentina and northern Chile at its height. One of the oldest surviving accounts of their use comes from Garcilaso de la Vega (1539-1616), the son of an Inca noblewoman and a Spanish conquistador. After capturing a new territory, the Inca started to expand the amount of agricultural land by bringing in skilled engineers, de la Vega noted in his book, Royal Commentaries of the Incas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of andenes for agricultural purposes in Peru","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Having dug the [irrigation] channels, they levelled the fields and squared them so that the irrigation water could be adequately distributed,\" he wrote. \"They built terraces on the mountains and hillsides, wherever the soil was good… In this way the whole hill was gradually brought under cultivation, the platforms being flattened out like stairs in a staircase and all the cultivable and irrigable land being put to use.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe newly expanded land was subsequently split into three parts: one for the Inca emperor; one for religious purposes; and one for the community, tranches of which were then distributed by local leaders. Although they were not taxed, farmers were required to spend time working on the emperor's and the religious lands, as well as their own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETechniques such as andenes were combined with policies such as \u003Cem\u003Emitma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, where people were moved to recently conquered territories to help cement Inca control; and \u003Cem\u003Emit'a\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a form of compulsory public service used to provide manpower to build infrastructure, including a road network tens of thousands of kilometres long.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis approach to agricultural, community and imperial organisation allowed the Inca to amass large surpluses of food for use during droughts, floods, conflicts and other lean periods. These stockpiles – which included \u003Cem\u003Echuño\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, freeze-dried potatoes produced by repeated exposure to frost and bright sunshine – were kept in huge storehouses called \u003Cem\u003Equllqas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. In the absence of a written language, the Inca used a complex system of multicoloured knotted strings known as \u003Cem\u003Equipu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (or \u003Cem\u003Ekhipu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) to maintain inventories, as well as keep track of population and astronomical data. Some academics believe quipu may even have been used to record narratives such as stories, songs and poems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrau argues that quipu – examples of which are on display in the British Museum's exhibition – were central to Inca society. \"They inherited this knowledge from the Wari, a society that existed in the southern highlands, 400 years before the Inca,\" she said. \"The Inca used a decimal system: they had a different knot for every number from one to nine, and then for tens, hundreds and thousands... the quipu was key in the way the empire functioned and was organised.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"View to the Colca Canyon with the Colca river flowing","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, the andenes, stockpiles and quipus helped the Inca to steadily expand an empire that eventually dominated a great swath of South America, encompassed 12 million people and produced majestic citadels such as Machu Picchu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th Century triggered the overthrow of the Inca and the decline of the andenes. Colonial violence, epidemics of European diseases and forced displacement devastated the indigenous populations of the central Andes. European crops and agriculture practices were introduced and quickly spread throughout the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet while many andenes were abandoned or fell into disrepair, they never disappeared completely. Drawing on knowledge passed down over the generations, many Andean farmers continue to use them today, and though often overlooked by travellers, they remain a common sight in places such as Isla del Sol and the wider Titicaca region, the Sacred Valley near Machu Picchu, and the Colca Canyon in southern Peru, a fissure twice the depth of the Grand Canyon. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years, there has also been renewed academic interest in andenes as a form of sustainable agriculture that could help the world cope with the climate crisis, water scarcity and soil erosion. The Food and Agriculture Organization of the UN, for example, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fgiahs\u002Fgiahsaroundtheworld\u002Fdesignated-sites\u002Flatin-america-and-the-caribbean\u002Fandean-agriculture\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edescribes traditional Andean culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as \"one of the best examples of the adaptation and knowledge of farmers to their environment\", and highlights its sustainable approach to land usage, water management, soil protection and crop biodiversity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFour and a half thousand years after they first emerged, the terraced fields of the Andes appear to be ahead of their time. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-13T10:04:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The innovative technology that powered the Inca","headlineShort":"The technology that powered the Inca","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Incan agricultural site of Moray with mountains in background","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"13.3299","longitude":"72.1971","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The Incan agricultural site of Moray with mountains in background","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A deceptively simple feat of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history.","summaryShort":"It helped them build the largest empire in South American history","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-12T20:04:36.692474Z","entity":"article","guid":"9d902331-9f60-4fdc-b7a7-cb847bf544b1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:38:40.514947Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881480},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road","_id":"621e445445ceed67ba7c3a7b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Route Napoleon gives visitors the chance to put themselves in the boots of the emperor, deep dive into Gallic culture and unlock the beauty of unspoiled natural landscapes.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThings weren't looking good for Napoleon Bonaparte in early 1815. The former emperor of France had been in exile on the small Mediterranean island of Elba for nearly a year, he was separated from his young family and his finances were dwindling. There were also rumours about his impending banishment to an even more remote island in the middle of the Atlantic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInstead of waiting for fate, the Corsican took matters into his own hands: escaping by boat and travelling to France. He landed at Golfe-Juan on the Côte d'Azur on February 28 with 700 loyal men and started marching towards Paris over difficult terrain to avoid arrest. Despite being declared an enemy of the state and having a price on his head, he reached his destination in less than two and a half weeks. Not only that but by the time he got to the French capital, he had raised an army and retaken control of the country – against all odds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis return is remembered as one of the greatest comebacks of all time and the path Bonaparte took through the Alpes to Grenoble – before continuing on to Paris – has also gained a certain notoriety. Known as the Route Napoleon, this 200-mile (325km) road attracts visitors from all over the world who come here to follow the emperor's footsteps and retrace a journey that changed the course of European history forever.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA national treasure\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\"The Route Napoleon is a French national treasure,\" explained Jérôme Viaud, the mayor of Grasse, a town best known for its perfume industry as well as being one of the main stop-offs on the Bonaparte's journey. \"It stretches from the Mediterranean Sea all the way up to the Alpes mountains, boasting an incredible diversity of landscapes, architecture, culture and history. There's no better way to get a snapshot of our fascinating but complex country, and I invite visitors to come experience it for themselves.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Expanisve mountain view","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EViaud is also president of the A.N.E.R.N (Action Nationale des Elus pour la Route Napoleon), an association dedicated to linking the 42 villages, towns and cities crossed by this famous road. Among the list are several highlights such as Valluris, a seaside resort loved by jetsetters and artists such as Pablo Picasso; Cannes, the French Riviera town that hosts the famous international film festival; Castellane, the drop-off point for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flesgorgesduverdon.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGorges du Verdon canyon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; the commune of Sisteron, with its medieval jewel of a citadel; Gap, once voted the sportiest city in France; and Grenoble, the capital of the French Alpes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We want to encourage visitors to go deeper into the French and European past by following this slower road","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The aim of the association is to link all these places through the mediums of history and storytelling,\" Viaud said. \"Rather than taking the motorway, we want to encourage visitors to go deeper into the French and European past by following this slower road and discovering these wonderful places. The best bit is you don't have to follow it step-by-step; we suggest people to drop in and out as they desire – taking the opportunity to get lost in some of these wonderful surroundings.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFar from waning, Viaud believes the appeal of the emperor is as strong as it ever was. In a recent survey carried out by his association, 74% of tourists they spoke to placed Bonaparte as the most important figure in French history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A road runs between mountains and terrain","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The image of the emperor is still very good in France today,\" he added. \"He remains a very popular character and inspires interest, as well as respect. When I speak to people, they are very much in awe of Napoleon, his personality, his power and what he represents in terms of order, which is something society is perhaps lacking today.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Hardknott Pass: Britain's wildest road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210916-will-this-european-capital-ban-cars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWill this European capital ban cars?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow Germany became the country of cars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"For me, Napoleon is fascinating because he went against the grain and achieved things that others thought were impossible – like his comeback. His political influence is still felt all throughout the French system, whether it's the decentralisation of power to the academic and merits systems. He even set the foundations for the modern \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bison-fute.gouv.fr\u002FIMG\u002Fpdf\u002Freseau_routier_au_01-01-2015.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoute Nationale highway network\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is still in place today – so it's only fitting we should celebrate this road named after him.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGlobal significance\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite being a very controversial and problematic figure (by, for example, re-instating slavery and having misogynistic views), Bonaparte has had an enduring charisma that influenced the world. His journey back to power not only changed France but it also sent shock waves much further afield.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Napoleon's return had a global impact,\" said Kate Astbury, a professor of French studies at the University of Warwick who has deeply investigated the effects of his rule on society and culture. \"The war against him stretched all over becoming more than just a battle between Britain and France. Other European nations were brought in, and it also has a very direct effect on places like the Caribbean, which becomes a hotbed of action during this era.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Black and white illustration with Napoleon centered on a horse","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBonaparte's mind-bending comeback also stirred up questions of sovereignty – otherwise known as the authority to govern. Other European rulers were particularly worried when the people of France welcomed him home. He didn't have royal blood nor any real legitimacy for his background in a time where monarchs were believed to get their power from God.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Britain, the caricaturists love his return, too, as he is making fool of the old monarchs,\" Astbury explained. \"Secretly, many people are delighted he is back breaking the boring old status quo. Then when he is finally defeated at Waterloo, a few months after his escape, crowds flocked to see exhibitions of his possessions and were fascinated by what he represented. He quickly becomes a bit of a cult figure.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENatural Beauty\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the modern N85 road (the official name of the Route Napoleon) doesn't quite follow the exact path Bonaparte took in 1815. Back when the emperor made his journey, there wasn't a single tarmac route to follow, but rather a succession of tracks and pathways, as well as some cross-country excursions in some parts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo get closer to what Bonaparte experienced himself, the best way is to set off by foot. There are quite literally thousands of pathways and hikes to follow that take walkers through quaint villages, ancient farmland, impressive geological formations and Unesco-protected natural parks and forests. The general climate is also very mild, which makes hiking very pleasant at most times of the year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The South-East of France is a wonderfully diverse and interesting part of the world to explore by foot,\" explained Andrea Bacher, a mountain guide who specialises in the Verdon Gorges canyon and the region of Castellane. \"I've been working here for more than 30 years, and I still discover something new each time I head out. The natural landscape is especially rich, and because a lot of this terrain is difficult to access, many things haven't really changed in thousands of years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sun peaks out over mountains and canyon","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Gorges du Verdon canyon is a particularly popular destination for hikers, climbers, water sports enthusiasts and nature lovers. It's an awe-inspiring rift through a high plateau which slices down to a bright turquoise river, offering up a glimpse of how the region's current geology came to be. It is also a haven for wildlife, boasting many endemic plant species and a wide range of wild animal species – many that are rare.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A lot of visitors are very excited when they see the spectacular wildlife – especially the vultures,\" explained Bacher. \"These birds were reintroduced to the area back in the 1990s and their numbers have grown rapidly. It's quite a sight when they soar overhead, their gigantic bodies cast quite a shadow, and because of their shape and plumage, people often mistake them for eagles – which we also have living in the region and are a star attraction.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEagles are also a link back to Bonaparte, as it was this bird that he chose to represent his empire, taking cues from the Romans. Golden standards (flag poles mounted by a statue) depicting the French Imperial Eagle were handed out to his regiments for battle. Sadly, the popularity of these animals and their habitat in the summer months is linked to conflict today. However, Bacher says that inconsiderate visitors are leading locals to reconsider mass tourism and find more sustainable approaches to business.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Vulture flies over canyon","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Since the pandemic, we are experiencing problems during the peak of the season,\" she said. \"The number of visitors, especially French nationals, has greatly risen during the middle of summer, and the infrastructure here is struggling to cope. Large camping cars blocking up the narrow village roads are a real problem, as is illegal parking, camping and littering. We would recommend people to come out of season if they can – things are cheaper, less busy and altogether better for the ecosystem. Coming by public transport would also be good.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA driver's heaven\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMotoring enthusiasts will nevertheless argue that driving remains the best way to experience the Route Napoleon, with the modern stretch of tarmac – rather than the road's imperial history – being the major attraction.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It truly has to be the greatest driving road in France,\" explained Richard Pardon, a UK-based automotive photographer who specialises in high-performance vehicles. \"From dramatic corners carved into the cliffside, to open sweeping sections that run through a forest, the Route Napoleon has it all. It's a bucket list drive with 180-degree switchbacks, hairpins, tunnels, bridges and quaint villages ideal for a lunch stop, that offer views out onto deep gorges filled with gleaming water.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It truly has to be the greatest driving road in France","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPardon first visited Route Napoleon in 2015 and was blown away by the gravity-defying road he discovered. He has since made frequent trips down to the South of France to capture dramatic driving pictures for magazines and luxury car manufacturers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I've shot here five times now, but it still never gets old,\" he said. \"The landscape changes from North to South, each vista as beautiful as the rest. Whereas most mountain passes are usually tight and technical, the Route Napoleon flows. It showcases the characteristics of a car, all whilst taking in the stunning scenic views. That's not to say a local in a Fiat Panda won't put your Lamborghini to shame around one of the narrow twisty sections.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Road winds between tough terrain","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a photographer, Pardon usually looks for scenic roads, bathed in good light and with good sightlines, that are quiet enough to work on safely. For him, the Route Napoleon has everything and can showcase a variation of landscape in a short distance, which helps convey the sense of journey through pictures. The good weather also makes it a year-round destination.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There's a particular stretch of road just off Route Napoleon that runs to a small ski resort, and in the summer months, it's almost deserted with long sweeping switchbacks that rise up and over the mountain until you reach a forest. It's ideal for car-to-car photography, so much so that the iconic Aston Martin DB5 versus Ferrari 355 James Bond car chase in GoldenEye was filmed here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInterestingly, James Bond's creator Ian Fleming was fascinated by the French emperor and frequently referenced Bonaparte and his rival, British general Arthur Wellesley, in his work. Most Bond baddies in fact all suffer from a Napoleonic complex – otherwise known as a desire to rule the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of whether you consider the French ruler a hero or a villain, it's easy to understand why retracing this stretch of road is incredibly revealing about Bonaparte and those who followed him. And whether you come down for the history, the culture, the nature or the tarmac: it's all worth the visit. Just try not to get any ideas about global domination…\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter called \"The Essential List\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-21T14:46:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Napoleon's gravity-defying 325km road","headlineShort":"Napoleon's gravity-defying 325km road","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Road curves through trees","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"44.4690839","longitude":"5.5265578","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Road curves through trees","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Route Napoleon gives visitors the chance to put themselves in the boots of the emperor, deep dive into Gallic culture and unlock the beauty of unspoiled natural landscapes.","summaryShort":"It once changed the course of European history forever","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-20T20:12:38.612416Z","entity":"article","guid":"d1cff2f4-de15-4711-8dc5-6b4d52a18812","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:41.749477Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881480},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes","_id":"621e445245ceed5b5a319395","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fegle-gerulaityte"],"bodyIntro":"A remote road in the Andes has been home to some of the world's most renowned guitar-makers for more than 200 years. But the tradition could be dwindling.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBracing against the cold air at an altitude of 2,650m, I made my way down a foggy, narrow mountain road in the heart of the Ecuadorian Andes. Its switchbacks were slick with moisture from the mist, vegetation slowly creeping up the cracks in the pavement. A large, looming silhouette emerged from the fog – a lone cow wandering along the road in search of better pasture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther than roaming livestock and the occasional local, there was almost no traffic. It was hard to believe I'd only just left Cuenca, one of Ecuador's most vibrant cities, a mere 30km behind. Having rented a motorcycle, I wanted to explore the more far-off routes of the Andes heading east, where there are little tourist crowds – and plenty of local culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpw5z7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESoon, I found myself on the Via San Bartolome, a quiet, remote road with solitude and views unspoiled by human activity. With its villages few and far between, Via San Bartolome slowly unfurls across the eastern slopes of the Andes for 80km, merging with a network of other local roads leading down into the Amazon plains. Gone are Cuenca's busy streets and trendy cafes, replaced by sparse, tiny indigenous settlements, animal pastures and a mountain landscape weighed down by heavy clouds and undisturbed silence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMusical traditions\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I entered the San Bartolome parish, home to a little more than 4,000 inhabitants, I started noticing something odd on the sides of the road. Here and there, a small workshop appeared, bearing a sign of a guitar. Sometimes, it was someone's house with a guitar frame hung outside; sometimes, a bigger workshop with instruments lined up on the porch or displayed on tables.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust a few more miles up the road, a makeshift wooden sign declared this was the \"Ruta de las Guitarras\" – the Guitar Route.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor more than 200 years, the tradition of guitar-making has been strong in this region. Locals craft the instruments from the area's cedar, spruce and cherry trees, as well as from more exotic materials like armadillo shells. Luthiers along the Guitar Road are known for crafting guitars so exquisite that their clients include musicians across South America, the Caribbean and North America.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIntrigued, I stopped by one of the guitar workshops: a typical tin-roofed Andean house with wooden walls, but with a guitar displayed above the entrance. It belonged to Jose Homero Uyaguari, one of San Bartolome's most renowned guitar makers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpw5rg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EParking my rental motorcycle on the side of the road, I tentatively asked if I could visit the workshop. While curious, I didn't want to intrude: the Guitar Route is far from a touristy place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Uyaguari nodded and ushered me inside. \"Come, come,\" he said, opening the doors to the workshop. \"Would you like to see the guitars?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside, the walls were lined with finished guitars, charangos (small, five-stringed instruments loved by indigenous Andean musicians), ukuleles and cuatros (four-stringed guitars popular in Venezuela). The tables were covered in instruments in various states of finish, sawdust, and cow bone fragments and colourful ornaments used as adornments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Every guitar and charango are unique,\" Uyaguari explained, holding up a small charango. \"We use local cherry wood, walnut and cedar trees most of the time, but some of the guitars are made from imported pine. Most of our walnut comes from right here, from our neighbours, and sometimes, we get things like armadillo shells from the rainforest – it's good for making smaller instruments, and people love the unusual finish.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGenerations of guitar makers\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs he showed me around the workshop, Uyaguari told me he learned the art of guitar making from his father – who, in turn, learned from his. \"As a child, I remember some of the guitar masters were 70, 80 years old, and they'd tell us they learned from their fathers, too. It's a tradition passed down from father to son,\" he said. Although there are some women guitar makers in San Bartolome, for the most part, it is the dominion of men.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I began learning to make guitars when I was 13 years old. Now, it's my trade, and I'm hoping to pass it down to my sons. Three of them already make guitars and work together with me,\" Uyaguari said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll of Uyaguari's instruments are made by hand. First, the wood is sent to be sawed. Next, the luthier works with chisels, saws and sandpaper to craft the frame and the neck of the guitar, decorating the sound hole with tiny wood fragments coloured by hand. Some of the ornaments are made of bovine bones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpw620"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom sanding and prepping the wood to a complete finish, it takes Uyaguari about two weeks to make one guitar. His cheaper instruments cost around $70 to $200 (£50 to £150), whereas a more exquisite guitar made from expensive wood may cost $2,000 (£1,500) and upwards.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESuch is the reputation of San Bartolome's guitar makers that these instruments are being sought after by musicians in Europe, Colombia, Cuba and Puerto Rico. Uyaguari fondly remembers a rosewood and pine guitar he made for Enrique Bunbury, the lead singer of Spanish rock band Héroes del Silencio.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA fragile trade\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite its past successes, after peaking around 2005-2010, the guitar-making trade in San Bartolome has been slowly dwindling. Due to an influx of imported guitars from China, locals are opting for cheaper instruments. Only 10 local families now make guitars full-time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Artisanal guitar making is now valued less and less. Younger people just want cheap guitars, and they ask us to make guitars for $15 or $20 (£10 or £15) – the price of the Chinese ones. We can't compete with that, as this wouldn't even cover the costs of the wood, let alone the labour,\" said Uyaguari.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpw642"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust 10 years ago, he and his sons would make 30 or 40 guitars a month; they'd all quickly sell out, with no instruments left at the shop, he said. Now, they sell 10 to 15 guitars a month. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, many guitar makers in San Bartolome have to supplement their income with farming, making furniture or moving to the cities in search of jobs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Some of the workshops have been closed down or abandoned. I don't plan to stop, however – I'll take my trade to my grave,\" Uyaguari said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut there's a potential new revenue stream for artisans like him, too. \"Right now, our guitars are mostly bought either by travellers or professional musicians who value what we do,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThanking the luthier for his time, I jumped back on the bike and followed the Guitar Route eastward. Soon, the narrow mountain road dived down, turning and twisting in generous bends, sparse Andean grasses now replaced by the lush emerald green of the Amazon rainforest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpw6bd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe temperature and humidity rose as the ribbon of road snaked down the slopes of the Andes, revealing the slow-moving waters of the Upano River and the endless green expanse below. Small farms and ramshackle houses gave way to fresh fruit stands and bare-bellied kids running around, the heavy clouds now broken apart by sunshine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the land changed, the cold Andean villages and the guitar makers of San Bartolome began to feel like a distant, dreamlike memory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\"\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-24T10:53:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Guitar Route of the Andes","headlineShort":"The Andes bucket list road trip","image":["p0br4jgw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-3.0099483","longitude":"-78.8185256","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0br4jgw"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181205-the-ancient-leather-tanners-of-ecuador","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220120-napoleons-gravity-defying-325km-road"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A remote road in the Andes has been home to some of the world's most renowned guitar-makers for more than 200 years. But the tradition could be dwindling.","summaryShort":"The Guitar Route is far from a touristy place","tag":["tag\u002Froad-trips"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-23T22:33:19.779822Z","entity":"article","guid":"f461faa1-163a-4cb1-8a4a-56fa4fa9d5c3","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T00:56:52.578136Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220223-the-guitar-route-of-the-andes","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fecuador","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-america"],"destinationStat":"south-america_ecuador_south-america","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881480},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial","_id":"621e444f45ceed64b8500056","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The discovery of two new Australian glider species is a boon for biodiversity yet presents a serious challenge for conservation.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"Its super long fluffy tail gave it away","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The first time I saw one, I was leading a night walk and we heard this big crash in the eucalyptus trees above us,\" said Wendy Bithell of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisionwalks.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVision Walks Eco-Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as we strapped on night vision goggles, the nature guide's secret weapon for spotting nocturnal critters in the rainforests of northern New South Wales (NSW).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We looked up and its super long fluffy tail gave it away,\" added Bithell. \"They're beautiful creatures to look at, but they're not as graceful as you'd think they might be.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA solitary, tree-dwelling marsupial with big furry ears, large round eyes and a feather boa-like tail that lives in the eucalypt forests of eastern Australia, the greater glider is often described as a clumsy flying possum. Only cuter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"They're like living Muppets,\" Australian National University (ANU) ecologist Dr Kara Youngentob told me via Zoom. \"Most people are more familiar with \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fearth\u002Fstory\u002F20150909-amazing-film-of-flying-possum\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esugar gliders\u003C\u002Fa\u003E [a small, sweet-toothed glider species heavily exploited in the illicit international pet trade] – think of the greater glider as their bigger, lazier, fluffier cousin.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe greater glider is the only member of the ringtail possum family that doesn't have a grippy prehensile tail. But it is also unique from its relatives in that it dines exclusively on eucalyptus leaves (like koalas) and has gliding membranes that run only from its elbows to its ankles (unlike its cousins, which have membranes stretching to their forepaws). This allows them to perform more controlled glides and gives them something of a superhero quality in flight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"When they jump, they put their little arms out in front of them like Wonder Woman,\" said Youngentob. Similar to the comic book heroine, the species can also glide long distances – up to 100m between the treetops, where it dens in tree hollows that can take more than a century to form.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThree times cuter\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPreviously thought to range from the steamy tropical rainforests of Far North Queensland down to the cool, wet forests of Victoria's Central Highlands, a territory spanning some 3,000km, the greater glider was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-76364-z\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecently proven\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to be three distinct species, with the nocturnal marsupials getting smaller the further north they live.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe size variations were noted when greater gliders were first described to science in the 1800s (by Scottish scientific writer Robert Kerr in a 1792 paper building on the work of Swedish botanist and \"father of modern taxonomy\" Carl von Linné), but it was assumed the specimens were one species (\u003Cem\u003EPetauroides volans\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) that grew bigger at lower latitudes to conserve heat, a theory known as Bergmann's rule.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJames Cook University researcher Denise McGregor, who led the study published in November 2020, tested this theory as part of her PhD, with genetic material taken from greater gliders in northern Queensland (which grow to the size of a small ringtail possum) proving that it was a different species to the cat-sized southern species found south of the Tropic of Capricorn (which the scientific name name, \u003Cem\u003EPetauroids volans\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, now refers to. But that wasn’t the only discovery she’d make.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"By then another group – Jackson and Groves – had published a book about gliding mammals [Taxonomy of Australian Mammals (2015)] in which they proposed that there were three separate species,\" said McGregor. \"So, I thought I'd better take some samples from where they thought the third species lived [in mid-Queensland, west of Mackay up to Townsville], and sure enough we came back with three species.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELittle is known about the central species (\u003Cem\u003EPetauroides armillatus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) and the northern species (\u003Cem\u003EPerauroides minor\u003C\u002Fem\u003E; whose territory is thought to extend to just north of Cairns), with the thrill of the discovery tempered by its implications for conserving the species.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEnvironmental threats\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile understanding the ecology of a species is important for the development of conservation management, said Youngentob, who co-authored the study, dividing the greater glider into three species means there are fewer of them left to protect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We already had the new species data before \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-50951043\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elast summer's bushfires\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, so when the entire southern greater glider habitat was on fire, we were just petrified because we knew the species didn't exist anywhere else,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet according to long-term surveys conducted by ANU Professor David Lindenmayer, Australia's foremost greater glider expert, southern populations had already plummeted by 80% in some areas before the bushfires. This loss is largely attributed to logging, which has wiped out vast swaths of hollow-bearing trees that greater gliders rely on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wwf.org.au\u002Fnews\u002Fnews\u002F2020\u002Fdestruction-of-greater-glider-habitat-jumped-by-52-after-vulnerable-listing#gs.mgrqt7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2020 World Wildlife Fund report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E revealed that destruction of greater glider habitat increased by 52% in NSW and Queensland after the species was listed as vulnerable to extinction by the federal government in 2016.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Logging doesn't only destroy greater glider habitat,\" said Lindenmayer. \"It also makes bushfires burn hotter and changes the composition of the landscape to less palatable food trees.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EClimate change, too, is impacting the species, with rising night-time temperatures – Sydney recorded its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-55118406\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehottest November night on record\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2020 – thought to cause greater gliders to lose their appetite, much like humans do in hot weather.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Greater gliders maintain minimal fat stores so they can't survive more than a few days without eating,\" explained Youngentob. \"In some places, the hotter nights are probably killing these animals.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Earth's oldest living lifeforms\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180410-the-strange-story-of-australias-wild-camel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe strange animal roaming Australia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200826-the-fight-to-save-australias-ancient-dinosaur-trees\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA 200-million-year-old 'dinosaur tree'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESaving the greater glider\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe bushfires have prompted the federal government to reconsider the conservation status of the greater glider, but researchers argue that more action is needed to protect the species.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"If we don't stop clearing thousands of hectares of land for coal mining and logging thousands of hectares of forests to generate woodchips, the greater glider is going to become the next koala,\" said Lindenmayer, referring to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-53231348#:~:text=Koalas%20will%20be%20extinct%20in,climatic%20events%20in%20recent%20years.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eextinction crisis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E now faced by the iconic marsupial.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, wildlife organisations along Australia's eastern seaboard are ramping up efforts to save the species. In mid-2020, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwildlife.org.au\u002Fqueensland-glider-network\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EQueensland Glider Network\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an arm of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwildlife.org.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWildlife Preservation Society of Queensland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, launched a greater glider monitoring project in the state's south-east to help promote conservation awareness. South of the border, conservationists are currently campaigning against planned logging in several northern NSW glider habitats including Bungabbee State Forest north of Casino, where a recent survey organised by the North East Forest Alliance (NEFA) also revealed the previously unknown presence of two vulnerable animals – the long-nosed potoroo and marbled frogmouth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"We could potentially lose another glider species before we even know it exists","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The area has already been denuded of large hollow-bearing trees so the greater glider population will be in big trouble if they lose what's left,\" said NEFA co-founder Dailan Pugh, whose environmental activism in the 1990s led to the creation of the state's first endangered fauna species legislation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn Victoria, conservationists applauded the setting aside of 96,000 hectares of forests in 2019 to help protect greater gliders. But by the new year, around half of the protection area had been decimated by bushfires.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We could potentially lose another glider species before we even know it exists,\" said McGregor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe new \"dark\" tourism?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOnly active after dark, generally sticking to the treetops and tending to avoid residential areas where larger nocturnal critters such as brushtail possums outcompete them for resources, greater gliders can take some effort to spot. This goes some way to explain why greater glider tourism hasn’t exactly taken off (yet). But seeking out an opportunity to spot these mysterious creatures could contribute to their conservation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Wildlife Preservation Society of Queensland runs periodic greater glider spotlighting tours, as does Melbourne-based conservation organisation \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.greeningaustralia.org.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreening Australia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with associated costs supporting various conservation programmes. More regular tours are offered by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcarnarvongorgeecotours.com\u002Fcarnarvon-gorge-guided-tours\u002Fcarnarvon-night-safari\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECarnarvon Gorge Eco Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in central QLD and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.faunagraphic.com.au\u002FTours\u002FNocturnalWildlifeTours\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFaunagraphic Wildlife Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the state's south-east. Go during breeding season (which McGregor thinks may vary between species), and you might be lucky enough to spot a couple intertwining their tails in courtship.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The southern species comes in different colours, so you often get this cool contrast if you have a light one and a dark one wrapped together,\" said Youngentob.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn my own night vision walk, I spy long-nosed bandicoots, pademelons, short-eared possums, bush rats and even a huge rough-scaled snake. But incisions on a tree trunk made by a sap-eating sugar glider is the closest I get to spotting a greater glider, which were once a common feature of my local rainforests.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It has been quite a while now since I've seen one,\" Bithell rued, \"but when we do, it's a relief to know that they're still out there.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fnatures-curiosities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENature’s Curiosities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that offers a close-up look at the natural world, taking adventurous travellers on an unexpected journey of exploration.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial-13"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-02-18T20:15:21Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Australia's charismatic glider marsupial","headlineShort":"Australia's remarkable animal discovery","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The discovery of two new Australian glider species is a boon for biodiversity yet presents a serious challenge for conservation.","summaryShort":"\"They're like living Muppets\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:01:50.499522Z","entity":"article","guid":"54625dce-bdfe-40c6-8146-7932b96a5cf7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:22:58.144752Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881481},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show","_id":"621e445345ceed6b6e328184","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkatie-dundas"],"bodyIntro":"Each year, the small South Australian town of Whyalla becomes home to one of the most spectacular underwater events: the spawning of the giant Australian cuttlefish.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"First time you go and put your head under the water and see hundreds and hundreds of cuttlefish in this one little area, it just looks like a chaotic kaleidoscope. What the hell is going on here?\" said Tony Bramley. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhyalladivingservices.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhyalla Diving Services\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and a decades-long advocate for the Giant Australian cuttlefish, Bramley has observed the frenzied and colourful cuttlefish mating that occurs in South Australia's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.parks.sa.gov.au\u002Fparks\u002Fupper-spencer-gulf-marine-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUpper Spencer Marine Gulf Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for years. Once only of interest to fishermen and local scuba divers – who would spread the word to one another that \"the cuttles are in\" – this marine phenomenon now attracts tourists and researchers from across the world. It's a welcome boost to the small steelworks town of Whyalla, on South Australia's Eyre Peninsula. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA type of marine invertebrate closely related to the octopus, cuttlefish are whip-smart molluscs that can change colour and texture instantly. They've been known to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002F12856785\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esolve puzzles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and can hypnotise their prey by turning their bodies into strobe lights, rapidly pulsing colour through their skin to distract and stun an unsuspecting crab or fish. Their camouflage skills put chameleons to shame, and have even attracted the attention of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedaily.com\u002Freleases\u002F2018\u002F02\u002F180227111654.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUS military\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who have researched the colour-changing abilities of cuttlefish with the hopes of replicating their techniques for army use. If that's not unusual enough, their mating behaviours are strange, to say the least.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom May to September each year, hundreds of thousands of Giant Australian cuttlefish gather in the waters just off Point Lowly, in the Upper Spencer Gulf, for the sole purpose of mating. Welcome to nature's most flamboyant underwater sex show.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqfy4n"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Lighthouse at Point Lowly, Whyalla, SA","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe largest cuttlefish in the world are found throughout southern Australian waters, but only in Whyalla do they gather in high numbers for mating. \"An estimate of cuttlefish numbers on the breeding aggregation for 2020 was 247,000, the highest on record,\" said Professor Bronwyn M Gillanders, a prominent cuttlefish researcher and Head of School, Biological Sciences at the University of Adelaide. \"This number is reported but we know that it's likely an underestimate.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Gillanders, Whyalla attracts cuttlefish due to its unique marine landscape, with the Upper Spencer Gulf offering plenty of rocky ledges that the females use to lay their eggs. While cuttlefish mate elsewhere, the Spencer Gulf is home to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.earth.com\u002Fimage\u002Fthe-site-of-the-worlds-largest-cuttlefish-spawning-event\u002F\"\u003Elargest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.earth.com\u002Fimage\u002Fthe-site-of-the-worlds-largest-cuttlefish-spawning-event\u002F\"\u003E-\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.earth.com\u002Fimage\u002Fthe-site-of-the-worlds-largest-cuttlefish-spawning-event\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eknown aggregation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on the planet – there's nowhere else in the world where swimmers can observe such spectacular and strange mating behaviours en masse, including pulsating colour changes and males disguising themselves as females. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENo-one ever said finding a partner was easy – and these cuttlefish are single and ready to mingle – but first, these unusual creatures need to get here. Bramley explained that some of the cuttlefish have been tagged, revealing that some are travelling from at least 65km south of the town and others 35km to the north to get to the breeding grounds in the Upper Spencer Gulf. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's remarkable animal discovery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Earth's oldest living lifeforms\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's reef only 9% visit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EArriving in Whyalla, it's easy to observe the cuttlefish as either a snorkeller or diver, with the cephalopods found in just 2-6m of water, right off the shore. While the water is calm, it's not warm. \"You've got to really dress for the occasion,\" laughed Bramley. With ocean temperatures hovering around 10-16C, I came prepared with a thick wetsuit, hood, gloves and booties. Even still, the chill hit me like a ton of bricks – but once I was in the water, I had a front-row ticket to the most incredible show in town.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqfy28"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Giant cuttlefish at Whyalla, SA","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnce my eyes adjusted underwater, I realised I was surrounded by cuttlefish – and they didn't seem bothered in the slightest to have a human watching their most intimate moments. With vibrantly pulsating rainbows of purple, orange, turquoise and pink and tentacles everywhere, it took me some time to make sense of this cephalopod foreplay, as cuttlefish have more than a few mating tricks up their tentacles. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn an environment where males can outnumber females 10 to one, competition is fierce to pass on one's genes. In most species, size matters: large, aggressive males fight off their rivals to win the chance to mate. This is seen in cuttlefish as well, with large males known to wrestle one another for dominance in the presence of a female. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They've figured out that if you want to impress a lover, you need to think outside the box","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor any other species, this means the smaller males miss out. But cuttlefish aren't like any other animal. They've figured out that if you want to impress a lover, you need to think outside the box.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The smaller males have a conundrum on their hands, because they know they can't win against these much larger males,\" explained Sarah McAnulty, squid biologist at the University of Connecticut. \"They have devised an alternate approach – masquerading as females to avoid the battle altogether.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn perhaps the most fascinating mating behaviour of any species, smaller males can fade their translucent colouring and switch to the mottled maroons and whites of a female, before tucking their billowy arms up into their bodies. This makes them appear female, and as the burly males are busy fighting it out and leaving their potential partner unguarded, these \"little sneakers\", as Bramley affectionately called them,\" dart past them to get access to the female and then rapidly change their colouring back to male. A win for the clever underdog.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqfy0x"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Giant cuttlefish and diver at Whyalla, SA","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe ensuing awkward-looking, head-to-head spectacle – if she decides to mate – might make you wonder if the cuttlefish have been taking notes from an adult film. During the tangled twist of tentacles, the cuttlefish connect and the male deposits his sperm packet in the female's mouth, using a specially designed arm known as the hectocotylus. The female then holds onto the sperm until she's ready to lay her eggs. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's the ultimate rebuttal to putting all your eggs in one basket","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe female mates with multiple males and can use a mix of different sperm deposits for her clutch. \"It's the ultimate rebuttal to putting all your eggs in one basket,\" said McAnulty. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInterestingly, the females prefer the smaller males over their beefy counterparts, according to McAnulty, indicating they're selecting brains over brawn. \"Studies have even shown that when the females go to lay their eggs, they will give a larger proportion of fatherhood to those sneaky males,\" she said. \"So, when we ask ourselves how those darn cephalopods got so smart? Well, they're sexually selecting for it!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile there's no shortage of X-rated action under the water, it hasn't always been that way. In recent decades, overfishing in the region reduced the local cuttlefish population and spurred locals to take action. This led to the creation of a fishing exclusion zone in 2013 along the Upper Spencer Gulf during mating season. In the late 1990s, aggregation numbers were at their lowest, with Bramley estimating only 30,000-40,000 cuttlefish were present in 1999. In a twist of fate, the decline of the cuttlefish population attracted media attention. Once word got out about Whyalla's incredible cephalopods, the region slowly started to attract divers and tourists during the early 2000s, keen to observe what was then a relatively unknown marine phenomenon. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bqfxyd"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Giant cuttlefish at Whyalla, SA","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOver the last several years, peak cuttlefish season has resulted in hotels and restaurants enjoying full capacity, and the injection of tourism funds has been a welcome boost to an economy mainly reliant on steel production. While there's been talk of building more hotels to handle an influx of tourists, cuttlefish season only lasts three to four months – so how do tourism operators sustain themselves during the rest of the year?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne solution the town hopes will help is improved infrastructure, with a $4m \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.premier.sa.gov.au\u002Fnews\u002Fmedia-releases\u002Fnews\u002Fincreased-protection-for-giant-australian-cuttlefish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECuttlefish Sanctuary Tourism and Conservation Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E grant announced in 2021. This will help the town manage additional visitors each season and promote Whyalla as a nature tourism destination with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.regions.sa.gov.au\u002Fprojects\u002Fxlgipp-projects\u002Fcuttlefish-coast-sanctuary-tourism-and-conservation-project-local-government-infrastructure-partnership-program\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehelp of\u003C\u002Fa\u003E improved beach access and walking paths, better signage, the addition of more native vegetation and increased protection for the area's delicate ecosystems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile cuttlefish tourism in Whyalla is only in its second decade, the city hopes it will become a viable long-term income source. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs for the cuttlefish themselves, we can only hope they continue their ostentatious, sexy shenanigans, proving that life can be as colourful and wild as you want it to be. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fnatures-curiosities\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENature's Curiosities\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that offers a close-up look at the natural world, taking adventurous travellers on an unexpected journey of exploration.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fnatures-curiosities"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-23T22:55:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Australia's X-rated underwater show","headlineShort":"Australia's X-rated underwater show","image":["p0bqfy8z"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-33.033333","longitude":"137.566666","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bqfxyd"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-an-extraordinary-corner-of-the-great-barrier-reef"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Each year, the small South Australian town of Whyalla becomes home to one of the most spectacular underwater events: the spawning of the giant Australian cuttlefish.","summaryShort":"Nowhere else in the world can you observe such strange mating behaviour en masse","tag":["tag\u002Fdiving","tag\u002Fwildlife"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-22T21:15:42.782239Z","entity":"article","guid":"913a8cfd-f852-4fa4-8f9c-dc3f3c0236b7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:42:23.588521Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-australias-x-rated-underwater-show","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia-and-pacific"],"destinationStat":"australia-and-pacific_australia_australia-and-pacific","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881480},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine","_id":"621e445945ceed632a4a826d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjoe-baur"],"bodyIntro":"Pastrami, schnitzel, gefilte fish: Jewish food isn't often known as plant-based. But there is a long tradition of Ashkenazi Jewish vegetarianism – one a new crop of chefs is reviving.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAbout an hour has gone by: time to take the gefilte fish and carrots out of the boiling water. In another pot, I've got potatoes and pickles simmering in stock and brine; I stir in a hefty dollop of sour cream to cut the acidity and top the soup  with a sprinkling of fresh chopped dill. Tomorrow, I'll be cooking a leek frittata for breakfast and schnitzel breaded with matzo meal for dinner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI'm swimming in shtetl nostalgia – Ashkenazi Jews have been making versions of these recipes for decades. Gefilte fish (an appetiser made from poached fish), for example, has been a favourite since they first settled on the banks of the German Rhine in the 11th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut there's a key difference. I'm making vegetarian versions of these dishes. And, in doing so, I know I'm closer to the traditions of my ancestors than I would be with the stacked \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160218-is-nycs-most-iconic-sandwich-dying\"\u003Epastrami\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160218-is-nycs-most-iconic-sandwich-dying\"\u003E sandwiches\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that have become the standard-bearer of Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor my Ashkenazi ancestors, the towers of meat you can find at the Jewish deli were nonexistent. Instead, their kitchens would be full of fresh, regional and seasonal vegetables, an assortment of pickles and, if they were lucky, some dairy. Meat and fish were expensive rarities until the industrialisation of meat production in the early 20th Century. That's why the gefilte fish I'm making now is a vegetarian imitation adapted from a century-old recipe using a purée of salsify (oyster plant), cashews and onion mixed with eggs and matzo meal, shaped into disc-like quenelles for poaching, then topped with one sliced carrot and sinus-clearing horseradish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInstead of veal, the schnitzel is a cut of celeriac root covered in flour, egg wash and matzo meal that browns after a few minutes on a hot skillet – as instructed by an 84-year-old recipe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpr5d7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt may come as a surprise to fans of the Jewish deli, but the values of vegetarianism have long been espoused and cherished by Ashkenazi Jewish cooks. And these values are returning from the sidelines. From Los Angeles, California and Cleveland, Ohio, to New York's Lower East Side and Brooklyn – where most Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants first settled and many sold pickles from pushcarts – a new generation of Jewish sandwich slingers and cookbook authors are promoting \"plant-forward\" eating.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn doing so, they're embodying many of the beliefs spelled out by the likes of chef Fania Lewando in her 1938 cookbook \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyivo.org\u002FThe-Vilna-Vegetarian-Cookbook\"\u003EThe Vilna Vegetarian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – and revolutionising modern Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine by taking it back to its roots (pun intended).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Vilna Vegetarian\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEve Jochnowitz is a culinary ethnographer based in New York City's Greenwich Village where she grew up. She published a translation of Lewando's Yiddish-language cookbook in 2015, including around 400 vegetarian recipes.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are sections expected of most any cookbook, like salads – with earthy dishes based on radishes and red cabbage – and soups ranging from a puréed carrot soup to bran borscht. Then come the unmistakably Jewish sections, like latkes (10 kinds) and Passover foods. There is even a section labelled \"Kugels with Cholents\", with 11 different ways to make the traditional Jewish casserole to go with the Sabbath stew left to simmer overnight – that way, it's ready for Shabbat lunch without lifting a finger.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the foreword to The Vilna Vegetarian, celebrated cookbook author Joan Nathan writes that the Yiddish and German kosher cookbooks of the 1930s offered vegetarian recipes in response to anti-Semitic laws outlawing the traditional Jewish ritual of slaughtering animals. But vegetarianism in Jewish cuisine goes back as far as the Talmud, the compilation of rabbinic debate on Jewish law, philosophy and biblical interpretation that was produced between the 3rd and 8th Centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENora Rubel is co-founder of the vegan Jewish deli \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.grassfedrochester.com\u002F\"\u003EGrass Fed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Rochester, New York, and a Jewish studies professor at the University of Rochester where she researches American Jewish culture, culinary history and religion. She noted that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sefaria.org\u002FPesachim.114b.1?lang=bi\"\u003Ethe Talmud allows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the use of a beet on a Passover Seder plate instead of a shank bone. Knowledge like this, Rubel said, can embolden Jewish vegetarians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This shows us that [our ancestors] were already talking about this a long time ago,\" Rubel said. \"This is part of our culinary lineage.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpr5wq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECenturies later, in 1938, Lewando continued that lineage in what is today Vilnius, Lithuania, where she owned a kosher dairy restaurant, ran a kosher cooking school and supervised a vegetarian kosher kitchen on an ocean liner that travelled between Gydnia, Poland, and New York City. In the introduction to her cookbook, she wrote of the importance of being resourceful and never throwing anything away because \"everything can be made into food\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe also connected vegetarianism to Jewish values.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"From the humanitarian principle of '\u003Cem\u003Etsar baaley khayim'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (not killing living creatures), it would be desirable to replace meat with a purely vegetarian cuisine,\" Lewando wrote. (It's worth noting that Lewando's translation is contested, with some saying it means not causing undue pain to animals, given that meat also plays a role in historic Jewish culture.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ELand of abundance\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat happened between the 1930s and today? After all, salads full of garden vegetables and resourceful soups are hardly what come to mind when people think of Ashkenazi Jewish food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Meat was super cheap in America,\" said Jeffrey Yoskowitz, Jewish food expert and the co-founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.orderpapaya.com\u002F\"\u003EPapaya\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a plant-based food delivery platform featuring meals from top chefs at vegan and non-vegan restaurants. \"The idea of eating this giant mega sandwich of beef is just the ultimate symbol of abundance and the affluence of America.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, that abundance made not eating meat a mockable offence, said Jochnowitz. \"There is a Yiddish saying: '\u003Cem\u003EDos beste milkhiks iz a shtikl fleysh'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" she said. \"The best dairy is a piece of meat.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpr5yz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn reality, eating meat on rare occasions was the norm throughout Ashkenazi Jewish history up until their arrival to the United States and the industrialisation of meat that drove down prices. Before then, meat was not something most Jews in Eastern Europe could afford in the 18th, 19th and early 20th Centuries. Coupled with meat shortages and lack of access to kosher meat, most Jews were what Jochnowitz calls \"de facto vegetarians\", though they likely would not have thought of themselves as such.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"People look at Jewish delis as the place where you get traditional home-cooked Jewish foods, but immigrant Ashkenazi Jewish mothers didn't want children going to the deli,\" said Yoskowitz. \"My grandmother didn't want my father going to the deli because these weren't the foods at home.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe deli meats and knishes (stuffed dough balls) of the Jewish-American deli were junk food in the eyes of Yoskowitz's Poland-born grandmother. It's no surprise his grandmother would take such a strict view considering she was herself a vegetarian. She'd take her son, Yoskowitz's father, to the Catskills in Upstate New York for a summer vacation stays at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Funtappedcities.com\u002F2017\u002F10\u002F05\u002F10-abandoned-resorts-from-the-borscht-belt-in-catskills-new-york\u002F4\u002F\"\u003EThe Vegetarian Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a resort founded in the early 20th Century. There was vegetarian chopped liver, blueberries with sour cream and radishes and other vegetables from the hotel garden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpr68l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's a story Yoskowitz touches on in his 2016 award-winning cookbook \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gefilteria.com\u002Fgefilte-manifesto\"\u003EThe Gefilte Manifesto\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where he and his co-author Liz Alpern revisit traditional, Old World Jewish foods with new recipes. The emphasis of the book is on embracing the resourceful techniques of our Ashkenazi Jewish ancestors, such as pickling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, it was pickling that first got Yoskowitz hooked on rediscovering Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine 15 years ago, at the organic Jewish farm \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fadamahfarmcsafallsvillage.weebly.com\u002Fthe-farm.html\"\u003EAdamah\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Connecticut. It made him question why neither pickling nor the connection between harvests and sustainability weren't more intrinsically connected to Ashkenazi Jewish culinary history. \"I felt like that story wasn't being told through the delis,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECulinary nostalgia\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe urge to rediscover traditional recipes might be even stronger among Ashkenazi Jews than other cultures because of the Holocaust, said Yoskowitz. The loss of their culinary homeland and the murder of so many families, he said, created a tenuous connection to the places where Ashkenazi families lived for centuries and – in some ways – froze Ashkenazi cuisine in time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe contrasted the Jewish experience to that of Italians. While Italians also immigrated to the Lower East Side, many often would travel back and forth to their homeland, importing a number of ingredients to the US with them. Lower East Side Jews, on the other hand, only imported dried mushrooms, thanks partly to the fact that they couldn't recreate the local terroir or forest floor of their homeland in New York City. Then the Holocaust decimated the unmarked boundaries of Yiddishland that stretched from France across Central Europe to the edges of Eastern Europe; for many, the pain severed any connection they had had.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpr7ms"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"A whole new culture had to be forged,\" said Yoskowitz. \"But because of that, the nostalgia for the past grows stronger and stronger.\"    \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo it's fitting that a number of new vegan Jewish delis pay homage to the owners' grandparents – like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.benandesthers.com\u002F\"\u003EBen & Esther\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.benandesthers.com\u002F\"\u003E'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.benandesthers.com\u002F\"\u003Es\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Portland, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.samandgerties.com\u002F\"\u003ESam & Gertie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.samandgerties.com\u002F\"\u003E'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.samandgerties.com\u002F\"\u003Es\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Chicago and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmortandbettys.com\u002F\"\u003EMort & Betty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmortandbettys.com\u002F\"\u003E'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmortandbettys.com\u002F\"\u003Es\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Los Angeles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Vilna Vegetarian continues to influence her cooking, said Mort & Betty’s owner Megan Tucker. She often refers to the book for recipes or to see how a specific ingredient was used.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I love the procedure in the pickled cucumbers recipe,\" Tucker said. \"Scalding a barrel, covering the bottom with horseradish leaves and finishing by pounding a stopper into the top and placing it in the sun for two days.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpr7td"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Cleveland, Ohio, meanwhile, a refurbished mid-19th Century firehouse has become a haven of nostalgic aromas and spices. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flarderdb.com\u002F\"\u003ELarder Delicatessen and Bakery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E chef Jeremy Umansky also credits The Vilna Vegetarian for showing him how his ancestors truly would have eaten, using plants first and meat only on special occasions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUmansky, too, is fascinated by pickling. He uses koji, a Japanese mould that speeds up the curing process and gives vegetables a smoky, savoury flavour with a texture that resembles meat. (In 2020, he even co-authored the book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chelseagreen.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fkoji-alchemy\u002F\"\u003EKoji Alchemy: Rediscovering the Magic of Mold-Based Fermentation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.) Koji is an essential ingredient to his vegan pastrami, which features mushrooms that are cured with salt before being spiced and smoked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENobody can say for certain where Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine is headed next. But there's no doubt it'll be far more complex and multifaceted than most deli fanatics could imagine. Fruits and vegetables from the garden will be front and centre – whether salted, seasoned, roasted or pickled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor that, we can thank this new generation of cooks who are circling back and taking their cues from the seeds planted by our ancestors. Whatever the result, it will be delicious.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-22T10:43:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A return to vegetarian Jewish cuisine","headlineShort":"A return to vegetarian Jewish cuisine","image":["p0bpr50h"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bpr50h"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Pastrami, schnitzel, gefilte fish: Jewish food isn't often known as plant-based. But there is a long tradition of Ashkenazi Jewish vegetarianism – one a new crop of chefs is reviving.","summaryShort":"Modern chefs are going back to recipes from a 1938 cookbook","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-21T21:44:05.565964Z","entity":"article","guid":"40ae5520-cb66-46a9-ae43-c7cfd8c3ad65","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-10T09:34:17.889973Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220221-a-return-to-vegetarian-jewish-cuisine","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881481},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth","_id":"621e444f45ceed67ff3d1968","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Mt Etna looms large over daily life in Sicily. And for the people here, living in its shadow is a complex and emotional undertaking.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Sicily’s port city of Catania, an alarm went off inside the scientific research centre, the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ingv.it\u002Fit\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Institute of Geophysics and Volcanology\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (INGV). A large wall covered with dozens of screens showed a tapestry of charts, figures, maps and live video streams, but it was one particular screen which drew the scientists’ attention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“An earthquake, on the south side of Etna,” said volcanologist Boris Behncke as he pointed to a line that violently jerked to a squiggle. Behncke knew that squiggles like these could mean big things to the people living in Etna’s shadow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHere, like in many places on the east side of Sicily, Mt Etna looms large over daily life. According to Behncke, it is “currently the most active volcano on Earth” and even at over 30km away, it is a visible presence and a volatile threat. However, the bigger threat is actually an earthquake closer to the city, which is a significant risk in this seismically active region\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191016-the-italian-island-of-perpetual-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Italian island of perpetual fire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200325-italys-inspiring-response-to-the-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly’s inspiring response to the coronavirus\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190415-the-gender-fight-behind-sicilys-most-iconic-snack\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe gender fight behind Sicily’s most iconic snack\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the village of Nicolosi, less than 20km downhill from Etna, worshiper Marisa Mazzaglia headed to church. For a country that is overwhelmingly Catholic, on this island, religious practice is particularly high. Inside the churches, large paintings depict the powerful volcano and worshipers kneeling in its shadow. At the top of a hill overlooking Nicolosi, a monument stands at the place where, in 1776, a lava flow was halted when, as legend has it, the cloak of a saint was laid on the floor in the path of the proceeding lava.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe foundations of Mazzaglia’s own spirituality were laid during the lava flow from an eruption in 2001. As it creeped closer, she joined her fellow villagers of Nicolosi, all standing in silence, as the bones of the saints were brought out of the church in the hope that once again, a “supernatural breath” would save them. For her, this moment became an epiphany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Here more than anywhere else on Earth, you strongly feel the force of nature,” Mazzaglia said. “We are so used to natural disruptions that, on one hand they make you admire nature, but on the other you turn to the High, the Most High.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe risk becomes greater closer to Etna’s summit. People making the journey to see the volcano up close must take a winding road flanked on either side by centuries of lava flows which have left mile upon mile of destructive deposit on the landscape. On the south side of the volcano, at the highest point you can drive to, a small cluster of shops and restaurants have built up around the ski lifts which take people up closer to the summit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 1983, a river of lava flowed down the south side of Etna. When it met the first building, the restaurant La Cantoniera, it split it in two, ultimately flattening the building entirely. Alfio Carone, who co-owns the restaurant, has displayed the catastrophe in a series of framed pictures across the wall of his now reconstructed restaurant: “It was destroyed in 1983 and rebuilt in 1985”, he explained. “We built the new construction over the still-warm lava.” For some people, this might seem like a bad location on which to rebuild, but for Carone there is more than logic to consider: “We are not afraid to start again on an active volcano like Etna because we already have a brotherhood with this great volcano and we live well like this.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter the alarm at INGV headquarters, Behncke sent an email to Francesco Impellizzeri in Nicolosi. Impellizzeri works for the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.protezionecivile.gov.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECivil Protection\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and it will be his job to use the scientific measurements given by Behncke to communicate up the chain of command recommendations in the face of possible eruptions. This way, precautions and closures are put in place to protect locals and travellers on the island. Impellizzeri is a straight-talking, serious man. Speaking in his office, he talked about official process and practicalities based on scientific data. They are expecting no Godly miracles here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut still, above his desk a crucifix hangs on the wall and in the corner, among his collection of a dozen or so rocks of Etna lava sits a miniature nativity scene. For the people here, living in the shadow of Etna is a complex and emotional undertaking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor more on this and other stories watch \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravelshow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe BBC Travel Show\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – every weekend on the BBC News Channel and BBC World News.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fn13xtmtp\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC's Travel Show\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E brings you the latest insider travel news, a wealth of destinations, amazing experiences and features and practical hints, tips and advice for your holidays.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}} \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-04-24T20:55:06Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Mt Etna: The most active volcano on Earth","headlineShort":"The threat looming large over Sicily","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Mt Etna looms large over daily life in Sicily. And for the people here, living in its shadow is a complex and emotional undertaking.","summaryShort":"“Here more than anywhere else on Earth, you strongly feel the force of nature”","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:48:08.543766Z","entity":"article","guid":"3d380fcc-7937-4b38-8b6e-ea479af1d9f0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:08:00.904993Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881482},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191016-the-italian-island-of-perpetual-fire":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191016-the-italian-island-of-perpetual-fire","_id":"621e445045ceed69f42e0aba","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"video","assetVideo":[],"author":[],"bodyIntro":"On Stromboli Island, 300 residents live directly under one of the world’s most active volcanoes. This award-winning film shows why they choose to stay.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECast off the northern coast of Sicily, the blustery island of Stromboli is home to around 300 full-time residents, two villages and one incredibly volatile volcano. For nearly 90 years, this rumbling, grumbling 12-sq-km speck of land in the Tyrrhenian Sea has been erupting almost continuously. In fact, its fountain-like spews of molten rock are so distinctive that geologists use the term “Strombolian” to describe similar volcanic eruptions around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStromboli is the most remote of Italy’s seven Aeolian Islands and an arresting sight: its perfectly conic mountain rises 924m from the cobalt sea and extends more than 1,000m below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe island hasn’t always been so active or so sparsely populated. In the early 1900s, around 4,000 people lived here. But after a major eruption and consequent tsunami in 1930, the majority of the island’s residents departed for the US and Australia. When the volcano began to erupt almost continuously a few years later, the population dwindled, and by the late 1940s only around 15% of the island’s residents remained. In 1950, however, director Roberto Rossellini's film Stromboli, starring Ingrid Bergman, put the island’s smoking silhouette back on the map, drawing visitors once again to the islet’s rocky shores.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn her 2019 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffilmfreeway.com\u002FElbaFilmFestival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EElba Film Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E award-winning documentary, Island of Fire, BBC’s Anna Bressanin takes viewers inside the lives of the people who call Stromboli home, exploring the complex reasons why they choose to live on one of the most active volcanoes in the world. Locals, who are used to living with the audible rumbles of the volcano, call it “\u003Cem\u003Eiddu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E”, meaning “he” in Sicilian. “He’s like a friend, like a person,” said 12-year-old Federico D’Ambrosio. Many locals believe that there is happiness in accepting the power of nature, and in the vulnerability of life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191016-the-italian-island-of-perpetual-fire-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What mystery, what beauty","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191016-the-italian-island-of-perpetual-fire-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Stromboli is one of the world’s most visited volcanoes, and tourists will often embark on a three-hour hike to view its primordial beauty from the edge of its crater. But this summer, two major explosions shook the island, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-48857422\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ekilling an Italian hiker\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and causing 70 people to be evacuated.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor local children used to the island’s off-season emptiness, tourism during the busy summer months means learning to navigate their bikes through crowded streets and playing the occasional prank on unsuspecting visitors. Few children reside on Stromboli, and those who do must leave the island to attend high school, as the island does not have one of its own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven after leaving for school and work, several islanders in Bressanin’s documentary say they were drawn back to their molten origins. “I have left only to come back,” said one of the young men. Other residents speak fondly of spending almost their entire lives on the volcano. For the people of Stromboli, home is a force best captured in a quote from Rossellini’s film: “What mystery, what beauty.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Video by Anna Bressanin, text by Emily Cavanagh)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191016-the-italian-island-of-perpetual-fire-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-10-17T19:16:03Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Italian island of perpetual fire","headlineShort":"Is this the world’s scariest island?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"On Stromboli Island, 300 residents live directly under one of the world’s most active volcanoes. This award-winning film shows why they choose to stay.","summaryShort":"Three hundred Italians live under one of the world’s most active volcanoes","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:39:32.256657Z","entity":"article","guid":"fd012d66-228b-4dc1-883d-7c1c09e5fa1a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191016-the-italian-island-of-perpetual-fire","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:36:40.689528Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191016-the-italian-island-of-perpetual-fire","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881482},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea","_id":"621e444e45ceed68026cd942","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Today, a team of archaeologists and engineers are developing some surprising new technologies to protect the underwater site for future generations.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“You’re sure I can cross?” I had to almost shout to be heard. Wooden slats dotted the ground before me. About 30m to my right, steam rose into the sky in thick grey-white clouds. And somewhere between where I stood now, and there, the earth turned from solid and cool to boiling and viscous. Wherever that exact change happened, I wanted to make sure I was none too close.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s very dangerous here","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“\u003Cem\u003ESì, sì,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” said volcanologist Enzo Morra, my guide for the day. He was already climbing the hill on the other side of the wooden slats before me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI edged one foot onto one piece of wood, then the next. The ground felt firm. As I reached the far side and climbed the hilltop, I could see the source of the steam: a bubbling pool of dull gunmetal-grey mud, ominous as the contents of a witch’s cauldron and a great deal louder. The air smelled of sulphur.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s very dangerous here,” Morra welcomed me when I arrived. “More dangerous than Vesuvius.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI laughed nervously. “I wish you’d told me that when we were over there. Why are you telling me that when we’re \u003Cem\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fem\u003E?”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe were overlooking one of the fumaroles of Campi Flegrei, known in English as the Phlegraean Fields. One of 20 known “supervolcanoes” on the planet – capable of erupting with a volume thousands of times stronger than an average volcano – Campi Flegrei commands less notoriety than Mt Vesuvius, just 30km to the west. But that is largely down to luck. If Campi Flegrei were to blow at maximum capacity today, it would make the 79AD eruption of Mt Vesuvius that destroyed Pompeii look like a puppy’s sneeze. Fortunately, Campi Flegrei hasn’t had a full-force eruption in thousands of years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat isn’t to say it’s impossible. Researchers call the supervolcano \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.volcanodiscovery.com\u002Fcampi-flegrei\u002Fnews\u002F92465\u002FCampi-Flegrei-volcano-Italy-status-report-no-significant-variations-in-activity.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E“restless”\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002FNCOMMS15312\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethere are concerns it is becoming more so\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In 2012, the alert level was raised from green to yellow, indicating a need for more monitoring. Most recently, a “seismic swarm” in April 2020 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.volcanodiscovery.com\u002Fcampi-flegrei-earthquakes.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esaw 34 different earthquakes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20160902-the-bold-and-controversial-plan-to-drill-into-a-supervolcano\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe bold plan to drill into a supervolcano\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180104-ancient-romes-sinful-city-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Rome’s sinful city at the bottom of the sea\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMt Etna: The most active volcano on Earth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECampi Flegrei is more than a (fitfully) snoozing menace. It’s why the ancient Romans built one of the most magnificent resort towns on the Italian peninsula here: Baiae, famed for its hot springs and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180104-ancient-romes-sinful-city-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebad behaviour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It’s also why at least half of the town, with its precious marbles, mosaics and sculptures, sank beneath the Mediterranean over the following centuries. Now, this “restless” supervolcano is the reason why much of this archaeological site is at risk today – both indirectly, thanks to the sea’s effect on the artefacts, and directly, in terms of the threat of earthquakes or another volcanic eruption.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Romans had few ways of knowing when an eruption or earthquake was coming. They were all but helpless when it came to protecting their town against the encroaching sea. But that’s no longer true. Today, a team of archaeologists and engineers are developing some surprising new technologies to protect the underwater site for future generations. And that’s what I’ve come here to learn more about.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOver its full 13km radius, the supervolcano, almost all of it at ground level or beneath the sea, has 24 craters and more than 150 pools of boiling mud. It’s easy to see how the ancient Greeks, who settled here first, came up with the name: “Phlegraean Fields” is from the early Greek verb \u003Cem\u003Ephlégō\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (“to burn”). \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe danger of Campi Flegrei isn’t just its size and strength, but its randomness. When a volcano like Vesuvius erupts, you know where the eruption will come from: the cone at its peak. Not here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The activity isn’t ever in the same place. Every eruption has its own story and place of emission,” Morra said. “Therefore, we obviously don’t know when the eruption will happen. But we also don’t know \u003Cem\u003Ewhere \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe next eruption will happen, if there is one.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnother danger is the type of activity: more than 90% of the activity Campi Flegrei is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.geolsoc.org.uk\u002Fks3\u002Fgsl\u002Feducation\u002Fresources\u002Frockcycle\u002Fpage3599.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eexplosive\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, not effusive. In other words, when it blows, it won’t leak lava over the ground; it will punch a column of rock and lava into the air. When the detritus lands, the ash will blacken the sky and thicken the air, making both seeing and breathing near-impossible. The column’s collapse causes a pyroclastic flow: extreme heat of up to 700C that vaporises everything in its path.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat, at least, is what happened 39,000 years ago, the date of Campi Flegrei’s largest eruption. Molten rock spewed 70km high. Ashes were found as far away as Siberia. The explosion was so powerful, the volcano collapsed into a caldera. The cooling that occurred in the ensuing years \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpubs.geoscienceworld.org\u002Fgsa\u002Fgeology\u002Farticle-abstract\u002F43\u002F5\u002F411\u002F131840\u002FCampanian-Ignimbrite-volcanism-climate-and-the?redirectedFrom=fulltext\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emay even have helped bring about the end of the Neanderthals\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFifteen thousand years ago, Campi Flegrei erupted again. The eruption wasn’t as large, but it threw significant volumes of yellow tufa into the air – enough to give Naples its colour today. People carved through and built with the local stone, giving the \u003Cem\u003Epalazzi, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Echurches and even \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.napolisotterranea.org\u002Fen\u002Fnaples-underground\u002F\"\u003Eunderground tunnels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E their golden colour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe last significant eruption was in 1538. Compared to these previous two events, it was tiny. It was also big enough to throw ash and pumice 5.5km high. As the column collapsed, it \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.geo.mtu.edu\u002Fvolcanoes\u002Fboris\u002Fmirror\u002Fmirrored_html\u002FMontenuovo.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecreated a “new mountain\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (dubbed, quite literally, Monte Nuovo), measuring 123m high – and burying a village beneath it. If this happened today, in the vicinity of Italy’s third-most-populous city, Naples, the damage would be severe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo what is the possibility of such an eruption happening in our lifetimes?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Obviously we can't make estimates,” Morra said, almost languidly. “We know that an active volcano, any active volcano, can erupt. Clearly, in our heart – we hope not.” I looked worried. “Have courage!” he said. “Like Vesuvius, Campi Flegrei is continuously monitored by colleagues at the Vesuvian Observatory, the oldest volcano observatory in the world. This can make us feel more tranquil.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EClose monitoring means an eruption can be predicted months in advance. With enough warning, the hope is that the metropolitan area can be safely evacuated.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESigns of a pending eruption aren’t the only data that volcanologists collect. The Vesuvian Observatory was also the first to discover, and chart, a phenomenon known as “bradyseism”: the slow rising, and sinking, of land over time. As the magma in Campi Flegrei’s massive magma chamber moves 3km below ground, so does the land above – sometimes significantly. Over the last 15,000 years, the movement of the magma has pushed the land above it upward \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Ftentativelists\u002F2030\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eby some 90m\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. At the same time, other parts of the caldera have fallen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, like Vesuvius, Campi Flegrei has given the area around it much of what makes it special: its volcanic rocks, soft and easy for building; its volcanic soil, rich with nutrients for vineyards and lemon groves; even the crescent shape of its coast, providing a gulf for splashing and sunning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut what the supervolcano has given the area, it also can take away – even without an eruption.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E*\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn the eastern edge of the caldera, the above-ground archaeological site of Baiae overlooks the sea. A layer-cake of arches, walls and terraces, it was once the ultimate holiday spot for rich and aristocratic Romans, a kind of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180104-ancient-romes-sinful-city-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELas Vegas of the ancient world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Now stripped of most of their marble, frescoes and sculptures – many of which are now at the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.campiflegreionline.it\u002FCastello_di_Baia.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArchaeological Museum of Campi Flegrei\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – the buildings look little like they would have millennia ago. Graceful capitals, shorn of their columns, and stucco decorations, dotted with cherubs and swans, hint at its former opulence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs I walked through the site with University of Naples L’Orientale archaeologist Michele Stefanile, he pointed out to me what each structure once would have been: a villa, a bath, a theatre. In one room, I tiptoed around the red and white mosaics. In another, we admired the wall frescoes, still vibrant with ochre and crimson. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Romans came here for the same reasons we do: the sparkling Mediterranean, the balmy weather, the lush vegetation. They were also drawn to the area’s thermal springs – the result, of course, of the volcanic activity beneath their feet. When Baiae first entered the historical record in 178BC, it was as the Aquae Cumanae (Cumaean Waters).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut Baiae wasn’t just a spa retreat. It was a party town, a place for Romans to bathe and banquet, flirt and frolic. In one of his many elegies to his lover and muse Cynthia, even the poet Sextus Propertius, no great prude, wrote despairingly in 25BC:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E“But you must quickly leave degenerate Baiae;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ethese beaches bring divorce to many,\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ebeaches for long the enemy of decent girls.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EA curse on Baiae’s water, love’s disgrace!”\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fhistory\u002Fancient\u002Fromans\u002Ffallofromanrepublic_article_01.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Roman Republic lapsed into Empire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Baiae’s reputation only grew. In 39AD, Caligula built a bridge – made up of merchant ships linked together, then covered with earth – from Baiae to Pozzuoli, three miles long, then rode over it in a chariot. In 59AD, Nero had his mother, Agrippina, murdered in her villa here. The later emperor Hadrian would have a more peaceful end to his life, dying of natural causes in his Baiaen palace in 138AD. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMore straight-laced Romans stayed away, or claimed to. “It’s no wonder that men like Seneca, for example, decided to have his villa not in Baiae but in a hill in that direction – just to stay a little bit isolated,” Stefanile told me, pointing across the gulf. Even towards the end of his life in 65AD, the philosopher said: “Baiae is a place to be avoided, because, though it has certain natural advantages, luxury has claimed it for her own exclusive resort.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Luxury” was right. Not content with building on land, wealthy Romans erected pylons and built their villas directly over the sea itself. Horace, rather more prudish than Propertius, reprimanded his countrymen in 23BC for the immodesty of such actions:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E“You, on the brink of the grave,\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Econtract for the cutting of marble slabs;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eforgetful of death you fret\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eto build your mansion out from the coast\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ein the roaring sea at Baiae –\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ethe mainland shore will not suffice.”\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHorace’s reprimands aside, the effect would have been magnificent. “All of these villas, complexes and structures were conceived in order to be seen from the sea,” Stefanile said as we stood on a terrace. Beyond the ruins lay a clutch of pastel homes; past that, the glittering water. In the near distance, the slopes of Mt Vesuvius were purple in the summer haze.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We always make the mistake of putting ourselves on the ground,” Stefanile said. “But the perfect point of view to appreciate this is the sea. Just imagine being in the gulf of Baiae and seeing this leisure resort with all these terraces and the pools and the people crowded here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven as the western Roman Empire declined, Romans, and then Visigoths and Vandals, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tandfonline.com\u002Fdoi\u002Ffull\u002F10.1080\u002F09518967.2019.1595885\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econtinued to use the baths at Baiae\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But by the time Giovanni Boccaccio described it in a 1344 novel – “no sight under the sun is more beautiful or more pleasant than this”, he wrote – Baiae’s great baths and villas had fallen into ruin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBecause of bradyseism, many were also underwater. Over the last 2,000 years, much of the site has sunk between 4-6m; in some places, it’s up to 10m. About 50% of built-up area is now thought to be under the sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome of the artefacts were covered by sand, hiding them from humans and animals alike. But others weren’t so lucky. There are stories of fishermen casting their nets and hauling in ancient sculptures, and of precious objects passing into the black market. Because no-one could be sure exactly how many objects were actually within the site, no-one can be sure how much has been looted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is not a normal archaeological park","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2002, the 177-hectare underwater site was made a Marine Protected Area. While licensed scuba divers can explore the site, they must do so with one of the registered local dive shops and guides, who see themselves as the first defenders of their heritage. Today, archaeologists are less worried about looting. But other challenges remain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This is not a normal archaeological park,” Stefanile said. “You cannot put a fence around it. You cannot close it. It’s always open. And it’s exposed to marine life, to the waves, to the tides, and to the human presence.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBarbara Davidde, Stefanile’s boss and the director of the unit of underwater archaeology at Italy’s Central Institute for Restoration, has been working at Baiae since 1993. One of the main problems for the artefacts underwater, she says, is marine life. Bacteria, bivalves, sponges – a dizzying variety of organisms not only make their home in the sea but have a penchant for stone and marble materials.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If you leave these artefacts open (for example, uncovered by sand), the marine organisms immediately start to colonise, and to live on, the surface. They start to destroy and attack the materials,” she said. Later, at her lab in Rome, Davidde showed me what she meant: while a mosaic might look undisturbed to the naked eye, under a microscope each was a web of holes and divots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt the Archaeological Museum of Campi Flegrei, one piece of artwork after another shows the damage animals can do. While it’s common to see ancient Roman statues missing arms or heads, the items in this collection are different. A veiled woman has been so disfigured, she looks as formless as a ghost; a base with a dedication to Emperor Hadrian loses all shape at the top, like a half-melted candle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMy favourite, however, is a 74cm statue of Zeus on his throne. Dating to the 1st Century BC, his right side is covered with what looks like white scrawlings, the remnants of marine encrustations. Holes that start to dot his torso turn his right arm into a handless sponge. His other side – which was presumably buried in sand – is practically pristine, the folds of his toga still sharp.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Zeus was likely stolen by looters. He wound up in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.latimes.com\u002Fentertainment\u002Farts\u002Fla-et-cm-getty-repatriation-20170613-story.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecollection of the J Paul Getty Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Los Angeles, acquired by a curator later indicted for conspiracy to traffic in illegal antiquities. He was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmediterraneoantico.it\u002Farticoli\u002Fzeus-in-trono-ritorna-a-casa-dal-getty-museum-ai-campi-flegrei\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereturned to the Campi Flegrei museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2018. The other sculptures in the museum are now safe from marine organisms. But the artefacts that remain below the sea, including the precious floors that make up the largest collection of underwater Roman mosaics the world, remain at risk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We have to find a way to protect the site","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“I don't think that you can find any other archaeological site in the world like Baiae,” Davidde said. “We have to find a way to protect the site.” \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.progettomusas.eu\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMusas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an interdisciplinary project led by Davidde to adapt new technologies for underwater sites, is doing just that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E*\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELocated in the shadow of Monte Nuovo, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.centrosubcampiflegrei.it\u002F\"\u003ECentro Sub Campi Flegrei dive centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was bustling on the day I was there. A dozen researchers, engineers and archaeologists were setting up equipment – which today included not only scuba tanks and gear, but waterproof tablets, cables and even an underwater drone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOverseeing it all was Chiara Petrioli, professor of computer science at the University of Rome La Sapienza and Musas’s scientific coordinator. She is behind one of the more ambitious aspects of Musas: its underwater wireless sensor networks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen it comes to an underwater site, a major challenge is communication. The various networks we rely on above ground – data, wifi, radio – aren’t effective in water. Wifi requires laying cables and penetrates only a couple of centimetres. Wireless optical is better but can cover only a few metres of range.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe impact on how much archaeologists are able to learn about the site, as well as how to best protect it, is enormous. Imagine you’re an underwater archaeologist excavating. Say you need a new tool. You have to rise to the surface, request it, hope they have it on the boat, and take it back down. The back-and-forth is time-intensive, and more dangerous.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps, after all that, you find a new mosaic. You start to uncover it, but all you can do is jot basic notes on a rudimentary board, perhaps take some photographs with an underwater camera. If you want to confer with anyone else, you have to wait until you’re above water. Without precise GPS, it’s also difficult to pinpoint the site’s location. When you come back a day later, the sands may have shifted, the sea floor changed. How can you be sure you’ll find it again?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe answer to all of this, scientists have found, is to try to mimic how marine mammals communicate: through sound waves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“You need to use acoustic communication,” Petrioli said. “This is really challenging, because the sea’s parameters may change.” Just as external factors can \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fenvironment\u002F2016\u002Ffeb\u002F02\u002Fships-noise-is-serious-problem-for-killer-whales-and-dolphins-report-finds\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edisturb the communication between killer whales or dolphins\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the same is true for humans using acoustic communication, too. Temperature, salinity and wind all can affect the connection between two devices. So can other sounds – a ship passing by, a jet ski. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s very complex, but we came up with an idea. Let's have mesh networks, like multi-rope networks, and let's use artificial intelligence techniques to keep changing the protocol we use.” If a telephone cable sends a message from A to B along a straight line, a mesh network is like a web – in this case made up of underwater wireless sensors, or nodes. When communication is sent, there are various ways it can get from point A to point B – allowing for the message to find the most efficient path to its final destination. And as the sea’s parameters change, so would the communication system. This week, the method they were testing allowed for communication over a range of up to 2km.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdl.acm.org\u002Fdoi\u002Fpdf\u002F10.1145\u002F3323679.3326632?download=true\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eunderwater wireless sensor networks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E open up a number of possibilities. Divers now can communicate in real-time, both with one another and with people above the surface, using waterproof smart tablets. Teams can pinpoint exactly where the diver – and a particular site or artefact – is located. The networks even allow data to be gathered, in real time, about the conservation status of the site – including sending images up to experts on land. And by monitoring everything from water quality to CO2 levels, they also provide extra information about the volcanic activity of Campi Flegrei.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe team was testing all of the technology when I visited, with their hope to install the sensors permanently by summer 2020. While that’s been delayed due to the global coronavirus crisis, there is still hope it will happen this year, and not just in Baiae: Musas has gotten the go-ahead to unroll the same technologies at other ancient underwater Italian sites in Puglia and Ponza.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut for now, I wasn’t sure what seemed more thrilling: the chance to finally see the underwater mosaics and ruins I’d heard so much about, or to try my hand at a technology that allowed divers to communicate like dolphins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELater that day, I back-rolled into the sea after dive guide Enzo Maione. Descending about 5m deep, we swam over a wall that once made up part of a villa. It was odd to see a ruin like this, grown over with seaweed instead of moss, fish flitting around the bricks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe were both equipped with tablets. I looked at mine. “Test,” came a message from the boat. “Test OK,” I typed back.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs we swam, statues began to appear out of the misty blue water. I paused, entranced. This was the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.parcoarcheologicosommersodibaia.it\u002Fsito.php?id_lingua=en&id=SI000029\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENymphaeum of Emperor Claudius\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a place where the 1st Century AD ruler would have strolled and admired statues. The statues here today are replicas; the originals have been moved on land for safe keeping. But it hardly mattered. Hovering in the water, looking at the statues’ faces as fish darted around us, felt ghostly and sublime.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI pressed a button on my tablet and held it up. A 3D version of how the nymphaeum would have looked appeared onscreen. This was one of the other main goals of Musas: to help divers understand the ruins they were looking at.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut the best was yet to come. Maione stopped on the sea floor and started to push the sand away. With each sweep, more of a mosaic revealed itself until we were hovering over an intricate pattern of circles and hexagons. This was once the floor of a room just off the atrium of a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F325829631_A_digital_reconstruction_of_the_sunken_Villa_con_ingresso_a_protiro_in_the_underwater_archaeological_site_of_Baiae\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emagnificent villa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, dating to the 2nd Century AD.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe’d already been down long enough that the team on the boat wanted to check in. “All OK?” I sent back a smiley face.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs we were reaching the end of our dive – an inlaid marble floor and a second mosaic later – I looked up in surprise. A large, cubic drone had descended through the water. It began to follow us, its headlights turning to look at me so seemingly intently, I felt like I’d fallen into a Pixar movie. This was one more tool in the team’s arsenal: a way for those above the water to “see” the relics below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-26"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-27"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt our final stop, the water looked strange: in small columns out of the ground, rising almost like a flame, it looked thicker, almost oily. A volcanic vent. I put my hand over it: the water was very warm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was one more reminder that we weren’t just diving in an ancient Roman resort, but a supervolcano – a volcano that could sweep all of this away in a moment’s work.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-28"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What was not possible before is now possible","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-29"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut the reason we were here at all was down to human innovation. And it was that innovation – and persistence – that now gave Baiae the chance to exist many generations into the future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI remembered what Petrioli had told me up on land, overlooking the boats being stacked with scuba tanks and cables and tablets. “Many people told us continuously, ‘You will not make it’,” she said. “We are proving them wrong. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“What was not possible before is now possible.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFilm credits:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFilmed by Pomona Pictures and underwater cameraman Roberto Rinaldi\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EReported and presented by Amanda Ruggeri\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEdited by the BBC Travel Show\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWith thanks to Musas, Centro Sub Campi Flegrei, the Archaeological Park of Campi Flegrei and the Archaeological Museum of Campi Flegrei\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ffuture-of-the-past\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFuture of the Past\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that explores important cultural heritage sites around the world that are under threat, and the innovations – both human and technological – being used to save them.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Ecalled \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-30"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-13T00:52:01.026Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Baiae: A Roman settlement at the bottom of the sea","headlineShort":"The ‘degenerate’ city lost in the sea","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Today, a team of archaeologists and engineers are developing some surprising new technologies to protect the underwater site for future generations.","summaryShort":"It was once the ultimate holiday spot for rich and aristocratic Romans","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:52:04.767961Z","entity":"article","guid":"f88d9e01-6b5d-4b81-a649-0f99b90f0560","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:38:30.783554Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881482},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism","_id":"621e445645ceed6b6a4f5f83","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Frafael-estefania"],"bodyIntro":"Despite the destruction of La Palma's recent volcanic eruption, which affected all the island's inhabitants, tourism is bringing new hope for those determined to rebuild.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-58779000\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecent 2021 volcanic eruption\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on La Palma in Spain's Canary Islands destroyed homes and businesses within minutes, residents are determined to rebuild. And one of the silver linings they see is through tourism. The lava has created some new beaches and natural sea pools on the rock, allowed vineyards to flourish and has attracted curious travellers from Spain and other parts of Europe and the UK.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":["p0bpt512"],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor more on this and other stories, watch \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravelshow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThe BBC Travel Show\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E – every weekend on the BBC News Channel and BBC World News.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism-2"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-travel-show","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ftravel-videos","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-18T20:15:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"La Palma: Where a volcano is good for tourism","headlineShort":"Where tragedy is good for tourism","image":["p0bptb6s"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"28.6554858","longitude":"-18.1465865","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bptb6s"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20191016-the-italian-island-of-perpetual-fire","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Despite the destruction of La Palma's recent volcanic eruption, which affected all the island's inhabitants, tourism is bringing new hope for those determined to rebuild.","summaryShort":"\"The volcano has hit us hard, but we are not defeated\"","tag":["tag\u002Fvolcano"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-17T20:33:09.283723Z","entity":"article","guid":"2486fce2-9d06-4a16-88df-f60f44baad0d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:42:05.846847Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcanary-islands","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fspain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_spain_canary-islands_europe_spain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881482},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation","_id":"621e445a45ceed69dc51506f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"An afterthought on the map of Austria, the exclave of Jungholz has carved out its own identity, even if the reality for those living there is far from straightforward.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThere is a mountain in the Allgäu Alps that is probably the most ludicrous in all of Europe. It is called the Sorgschrofen, it is 1,636m high, and it is marked by a G\u003Cem\u003Eipfelkreuz\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or summit cross, which stands above a sheer-sided cliff face of white-webbed rock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFormed from reef limestone, the knuckle looms above the triangle-shaped village of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jungholz.tirol\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJungholz\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the western Tirol of Austria. While it pales in significance to other mightier Alpine peaks, it fires the mind of cartophiles for a wholly unusual reason.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFor the cross at its top – an almost abstract feature on any map – marks the only geographical point where the Tirolean village and the rest of Austria meet. And almost unbelievably, this strip of connecting land is less than 1m wide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENo matter the absurdity, it is utterly necessary. Because Jungholz, population 302, is as Austrian as Vienna or Salzburg – yet it is surrounded by Germany on all sides, with no road connection to Austria. The only way Austrians in the exclave can reach their homeland is via Bavaria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EJungholz had never crossed my mind prior to this winter, and it is highly likely you have never heard of it either. Many Austrians are also unfamiliar with the mountain village; before making the trip, I asked locals in the Tirolean towns of Kitzbühel and Innsbruck what to expect and no one was any wiser than I. My interest in its incongruous geography deepened.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Sorgschrofen summit cross with grassy hills","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EIt is also very common to meet tourists from the nearest German cities of Munich and Stuttgart who aren't aware of its geographic complexity. On a busy winter's day, some 3,000 of them journey to the exclave to ski Jungholz's modest collection of chairlifts and T-bars, besieging the village in helmets and with ski poles. The paradox, of course, is that most of them think they are still in Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist\"\u003EThe 'nation' with a useless passport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustria's town that lost its visitors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermany's tiny geographic oddity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EEven Elze-Jan Hoek, a Dutch transplant who came from outside Utrecht with his wife to set up a farm and raise his children, was first brought to Jungholz by accident. \"My parents loved southern Bavaria and we used to drive down from the Netherlands for long summer holidays in nearby Pfronten,\" he told me, wistfully. \"So it felt natural to decide to move to Germany – but almost by mistake we found a B&B just over the border in Jungholz instead.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EToday, it is guesthouse owners like Hoek, as well as the ski lift company, who keep the Austrian village alive. It is extraordinarily tiny and from the top of its highest T-bar lift at 1,390m it is possible to see all of Jungholz, from the atypical Tirolean church to the multi-winged \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fberghoteltirol.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBerghotel Tirol\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in one swift head turn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I drive 20km from Austria, up and over the Oberjoch Pass and through Germany, then back into Austria to work every day","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"So many oddities exist here,\" said Arnold Holl, managing director of the ski lift company, as we stood absorbing what little there was of the panorama. \"Locals speak with a German dialect and have a German way of thinking. The staff are mostly from Germany. And I drive 20km from Austria, up and over the Oberjoch Pass and through Germany, then back into Austria to work every day. I'm a Tiroler, and for me this is not the Tirol.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENonetheless, on arrival into Jungholz, a different message is proclaimed vividly in Germanic script on a gable-end mural on one of the first farmhouses visitors see when crossing the German-Austrian border. \"Grüß Gott im Land Tirol,\" it reads. \"May God bless you in the Land of Tirol.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Jungholz covered in snow","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe fault lines that carved out Jungholz's place in history can be traced in the village's archives at the bottom of the main chairlift. And it is here that an outsider can learn how the land first changed hands on 24 June 1342, from Hermann Häselin, a farmer from Wertach in Germany, to Heinz Lochpyler, an Austrian taxman from nearby Tannheim. Also here, one can learn how the tiny exclave was ruled by Austria over the next half millennium, despite feudalism fizzling out in medieval Europe and the modern borders of Germany and Austria tightening their grip around Jungholz's edges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe last thing I read is how, on 3 May 1868, a state treaty between Austria and Bavaria enveloped the rural backwater into the German economic area – meaning, unlike the rest of Austria, Jungholz traded freely with its close neighbour for almost 90 years before the European Economic Community was created and a century before the European Union came into being.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe village might have felt constricting after a day had it not been for its fascinating history and spirited locals. When they told me how complex life could be here, they didn't just mean its bizarre geography.  They meant that most people are born in Germany (since the nearest Austrian hospital is too far away), but everyone gets an Austrian passport. That food and drink comes from Germany, but telephone and internet from Austria. That they have two different postal codes and, until the 1990s, two telephone codes. That they use doctors and dentists in Germany because there are none in Jungholz. That there is no secondary school, but an agreement that lets children go to a German school, 40 minutes away in Bavaria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIt was a lot to take in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Welcome sign on Jungholz farmhouse","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EChief among recent challenges has been how the Covid pandemic has further isolated the exclave from the rest of Austria. As well as all the closest testing and vaccination centres being in Germany, border control was introduced at the end of the village by Bavarian State Police, meaning residents were effectively cut off from the outside world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIt was a move that strengthened their resolve and, when the second of four national lockdowns in Austria was announced in November 2020, Mayor Karina Konrad negotiated an exemption for residents to essentially be treated as German citizens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I grew up in Jungholz and it was normal for us that we weren't normal","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"We've always had problems because of our geographical situation, so this was yet another example of how we're treated in a different way from other Austrians,\" Konrad told me. \"I grew up in Jungholz and it was normal for us that we weren't normal. In Germany, they said we weren't German and in Austria they said we weren't Austrian. In daily life we are neither Austrian, nor Tirolean, but Jungholzer.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ESmall-town affection aside, there is another extraordinary element about Jungholz: thanks to a legal loophole and tax technicality, the village once had the highest density of banks in the world. This El Dorado of the banking scene became Bavaria's \"off-shore\" banking capital and gave German investors lucrative tax benefits. At the height of Jungholz banking in 2008, the village's Volksbank, Sparkasse and Raiffeisenbank Reutte had more than €4bn in their vaults – significantly more than the entire Tirolean state budget at the time. Indeed, it became a sort of Alpine Wild West, with cars arriving in the dead of night piled with suitcases full of black money. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"Switzerland was famous for its banking secrets, but Jungholz has the same history,\" said Hoek, who saw his guesthouse booked almost every night. \"Bagmen would arrive with suitcases handcuffed to their wrists, enter their room, lock the door and never leave until the banks opened. It happened all the time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Old advertisement and logo of Jungholz Bank near a church in Jungholz","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.connys.info\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EMuch has changed since then. The EU demanded greater levels of transparency, and cross-border tax evasion was placed under greater scrutiny in 2014, putting an end to Jungholz's status as an \"offshore\" capital. In turn, the billions invested in Jungholz vanished almost overnight and the banking exodus began. Now, the investors are gone, tourism has filled the void and the banks have been repurposed. One is a self-catering apartment block, while another hosts a permanent art exhibition, with a mural painted by Thierry Noir, the first artist to paint the Berlin Wall in the 1980s. The last building is still for sale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAn unusual village, in unusual circumstances, in unusual times. Before I left, I asked Conny Lochbihler, owner of visitor shop \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.connys.info\u002F\"\u003EConny's Ski Alm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, what it is about Jungholz that had kept her in this pocket kingdom for all of her life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"This is a place where you can see everything from every point,\" she said. \"The world is often too big, but here you can never get lost.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETravel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-15T07:21:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Jungholz: A ski town stuck in the wrong nation","headlineShort":"A ski town stuck in the wrong nation","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"47.5739°","longitude":"10.4471","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"An afterthought on the map of Austria, the exclave of Jungholz has carved out its own identity, even if the reality for those living there is far from straightforward.","summaryShort":"Life for the locals is far from straightforward","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-14T20:25:21.429056Z","entity":"article","guid":"2e104879-c424-4cf2-87ab-587ee0abb1ea","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-01T23:16:29.048528Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881483},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail","_id":"621d1a4245ceed54977356ca","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Spanning two countries, this 270km-long path traces one of the bloodiest frontlines of World War One and now stands as a celebration of peace.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When I was a kid, I hated walking; nevertheless, my father always took me with him to the mountains. On such hikes, my mother used to give me an invisible rope, which I tied around my waist so she could 'pull' me uphill,\" said our guide, Petra Rov&scaron;ček, as she passed my partner and I the same invisible rope.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnused to the slopes of north-western Slovenia, we were struggling to keep up with Rov&scaron;ček's pace while marching to reach the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.javorca.info\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMemorial Church of the Holy Spirit in Javorca\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. As Rov&scaron;ček led us on a winding gravel road above a stream trickling with alpine water and under leaves blushing autumnal reds, she told us about her relationship with the unconventional shrine. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"For me it's more a person than a church. Whenever I visit it, I say hello to the [fallen soldier] boys. They're like brothers to me.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETucked in a valley high above the Tolminka River and surrounded by the steep peaks of the Rdeči rob and Tolmin mountain chains, the solitary wooden church honours the 2,564 Austro-Hungarian soldiers who lost their lives in 1916 on the nearby Tolmin battlefield as part of the Isonzo Front in World War One. The 90km-long front ran from the Alps to the Adriatic Sea along the Isonzo River near the historical border that once separated Italy and Austria. It had been formed a year earlier when Italy joined the Allies and declared war on Austria-Hungary. Two and a half years of positional warfare followed, and in all, the Isonzo represented one of the bloodiest frontlines in WWI, with more than 1.5 million soldiers killed, wounded or captured in the 12 battles that took place here between 1915 and 1917. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, most of the valley belongs to Slovenia, the Isonzo River is now known as the Soča, and the slopes around the church are overgrown with dense forest. But 100 years ago, the area was completely bare because locals used it as pasture for livestock. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In winter, when the peaks were covered with up to 6m [of] thick snow, avalanches [killed] many soldiers on the Austro-Hungarian side. Desperate due to mass losses and an impossible situation they were in, the surviving soldiers decided to erect a monument to the fallen comrades-in-arms,\" explained Rov&scaron;ček. The shrine was constructed by soldiers while resting after prolonged battles, and as Rov&scaron;ček led us inside, we saw that the men had burnt the names of their 2,564 fallen brothers into oak panels – a poignant reminder of the horrors that took place in this now picture-perfect setting. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the lone church stands as a \"memorial of reconciliation\", and is one of 230 WWI monuments, trenches, caverns, cemeteries and forts in the Soča Valley that make up the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thewalkofpeace.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWalk of Peace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E hiking trail: a living museum that reminds travellers of this valley's importance in the war, while also revealing how the unique rural culture of its residents has endured.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStretching 270km and weaving between Slovenia and Italy, the main trail is divided into 15 one-day walking routes that run from Mt Rombon in the Julian Alps all the way to Trieste, Italy, on the Adriatic coast. In addition to the European Heritage-listed Javorca, the trail passes through the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.soca-valley.com\u002Fen\u002Fin-search-of-adventure\u002Fculture\u002F2021010610355699\u002Fkluze-amp-fort-herman\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKluže Fortress\u003C\u002Fa\u003E high above the Koritnica gorge; the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.brda.si\u002Ftourist_attractions\u002Fnatural_attractions\u002F2012051415190197\u002FSabotin%20-%20Peace%20Park\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESabotin Peace Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a key defensive point of Austria-Hungary, and a protected habitat of rare bird species; and the 25m \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mirenkras.si\u002Fen\u002Fcerje\u002Fvisit-the-monumet-of-peace\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMonument of Peace and Observation Tower\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Cerje, with panoramic views of the Adriatic Sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Walk of Peace was inaugurated in March 2015 and has since expanded to include an additional 230km of new routes branching off from the trail's main spine – one leading to Kranjska Gora, a popular winter sports destination, and the other to the town Bohinjska Bistrica. Both the original trail and the two new routes venture into \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tnp.si\u002Fen\u002Fvisit\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETriglav\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Slovenia's only national park, whose high-altitude summits and crystal-clear lakes are home to brown bears, chamois and golden eagles.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211207-the-michinoku-coastal-trail-japans-new-1000km-path\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Minochoku Coastal Trail: Japan's new 1,000km path\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210714-transcaucasian-trail-a-new-route-between-europe-and-asia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA new hiking route between Europe and Asia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Sentiero dei Parchi: A hiking trail uniting Italy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was born in Slovenia's northernmost region, Prekmurje, and this year, it celebrated the 100th anniversary of the arrival of first migrants from the Soča Valley region who had been displaced due to the war. Even now, many people I grew up with still feel a bond with the valley that was once their great-grandparents' home. So, after long wanting to explore the trail, I decided to lace up my shoes and learn more about the Great War – and my birth nation – by hiking a northern leg of the route.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe started our exploration at the Italian army's open-air trenches at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.soca-valley.com\u002Fen\u002Fin-search-of-adventure\u002Fculture\u002F2021011121433003\u002Fkolovrat-outdoor-museum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKolovrat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a ridge with sweeping views into the Friuli lowlands in Italy, lined with a branched system of firing trenches and caverns where the last battle of the Isonzo Front took place. From there, the trail shot down into vast pastures filled with cows, whose milk is turned into traditional Tolminc cheese and spicy albumin curd. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to teaching hikers about history, the Walk of Peace allows travellers to sample a highlight reel of Slovenian culinary specialties. After a long day of walking, I stayed overnight at the working farm \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.prikafolu.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPri Kafolu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E near Tolmin and feasted on a pasture-to-plate selection of dried meat products, yoghurt, albumin curd and Tolminc cheese sourced from the cows just outside the window. The farm's owner, Tomaž Leban, explained that the cheese's consistent sweet, slightly spicy taste is the result of an 800-year-old local recipe. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHad I continued south to the town of Nova Gorica, I would have walked through the hilly vineyards of Gori&scaron;ka brda and the Karst region, where the fertile red soil produces blood-red Teran Slovenian wine, while the gusty cold wind dries fresh salted pig thighs and turns them into one of the most recognisable Slovenian delicacies: \u003Cem\u003EKra&scaron;ki pr&scaron;ut\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or Slovenian prosciutto.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe region isn't only an important culinary hub; it's also a popular recreational spot for locals. \"Everyone here practices some kind of sport: hiking, running, biking, skiing, climbing,\" confirmed Rov&scaron;ček. Coming from the flat, endless wheat fields of Prekmurje in the opposite end of the country, I was struggling with the ascents. But gazing down at the rushing Soča and up at the snowcapped mountains, it was easy to understand why everyone I talked to seemed to love the great outdoors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the trail was inspired by the memories of war, it also stands as a celebration of peace. When we were standing outside the church in Javorca, Rov&scaron;ček called us to look up above the three Austrian-Hungarian coats of arms and a solar clock towards an inscription. \"The word 'PAX' [peace] is written on the very top. It's the most important thing of all,\" she said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother goal of the trail is to promote harmony between the neighbouring nations that once fought against each other. \"Since there are no living witnesses, passions and emotions have calmed down considerably. The legacy of WWI no longer separates people, but it really unites them,\" explained Ma&scaron;a Klavora, director of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.potmiru.si\u002Feng\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUstanova Fundacija Poti miru v Posočju\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which helps manage the trail.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, after our initial ascent to admire the views from atop Kolovrat, we were standing right on the border between Slovenia and Italy. We could see the Soča Valley on the Slovenian side and the Friuli lowlands and the Gulf of Trieste on the Italian side. Breathless hikers from both nations greeted us as they savoured the victory of a successful climb. Until Slovenian independence in 1991, Yugoslav soldiers guarded this area of rocks and underground ditches trying to prevent people from passing from one country to another, said Leon Četrtič who leads groups of tourists to Kolovrat. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Today, not only can we just walk over to Italy, but there we do our [errands], eat in restaurants or just go for a drink,\" he said. \"The Italians do the same here in Slovenia. For us, the border doesn't exist anymore.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-16T20:08:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Walk of Peace: Europe's Alps-to-Adriatic hiking trail","headlineShort":"Europe's Alps-to-Adriatic hiking trail","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"46.1857","longitude":"13.7320","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Spanning two countries, this 270km-long path traces one of the bloodiest frontlines of World War One and now stands as a celebration of peace.","summaryShort":"It spans 270km across a historical WWI front","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-15T20:08:49.8802Z","entity":"article","guid":"ffa446ae-6d2f-4842-acbd-67597a5b4d89","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:42:25.102616Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881483},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination","_id":"621e445945ceed69eb579aca","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"By mapping trails, leading ascents and introducing locals to the beauty of their own backyard, one mountaineer has been working tirelessly to put Taiwan on the trekking map.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn March 1992, Chou Yeh-Cheng was high up on the slopes of Mount Dabajian in Taiwan's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spnp.gov.tw\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShei-Pa National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The 3,500m peak, mostly made up of dark, earthy sandstone, is noted for its imposing vertical rock face. It was the first mountain ascent Chou had ever attempted. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The temperature was below zero and I didn't have enough clothes,\" he recalled. \"I was with my two younger brothers, and we found a shelter. It was made from wood, so we took down the wood from the wall and made a fire to survive.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChou was beginning to display symptoms of hypothermia and he says the fire likely saved his life. Yet, the blaze presented a danger in itself. Having lit the fire indoors, Chou and his brother nearly choked to death on the smoke.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\"After that,\" Chou said, \"I realised I should take mountain climbing seriously.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Chou is affectionately known as the \"Old Mountain Monkey\" among Taiwanese hikers, and he has hiked Taiwan's 100 3,000m-plus peaks a record 16 times each. He also holds the record for traversing those 100 peaks in the fastest time. But personal feats aside, by spreading his love of hiking and educating countless others about Taiwan's natural beauty, Chou has single-handedly changed the island's hiking culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt 70, Chou still cuts an unimposing figure: slight with bright, inquisitive eyes – a touch of mischief in their easy glint – with a wispy salt-and-pepper goatee. Even with a knee injury (the first physical ailment he claims he's ever encountered), he still walks around 20km a day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Until the 1990s, hiking in Taiwan was a fringe sport, as many mountains were off-limits during the country's period of martial law","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom 1995 until March 2021, Chou spent 100 days per year hiking the two mountain ranges running along Taiwan's spine and eastern coast. In addition to his own excursions, he also led group hikes up and down the island's 100 peaks from Hsinchu County in the north to Pingtung in the south, and extending to Hualien, Yilan and Taitung on Taiwan's eastern end. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I take every climber as a friend or relative,\" he said. \"I like to help others, and I believe helping others achieve the '100 Peaks' is a part of my responsibility.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPart of Chou's mission has been to promote Taiwan as a premier hiking destination – and that starts by instilling a love of the mountains in locals. To get first-timers hooked on hiking, his go-to trail is the six-day \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyenhlin.smugmug.com\u002FTaiwan-Landscape-Photography-Alpine-Yen-H-Lin\u002FNenggao-Andongjun-Trail\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENenggao-Andongjun hike\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which rises high above the tree line, tracing Taiwan's spine and crossing deep valleys and vast, dreamlike meadows of dwarf bamboo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It has grass and lakes in the high mountain area, and many deer around you when you camp at night,\" said Chou. \"It looks very beautiful.” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211207-the-michinoku-coastal-trail-japans-new-1000km-path\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's new 1,000km path\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA country being unified through hiking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210408-the-man-mapping-a-nation-by-hand-telfor-bedeau\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe man who mapped a nation by hand\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChou came to hiking rather late in life. As a young man, he pushed himself to be the best at whatever he did but struggled to find an outlet outside of his electronics marketing job. For years he walked a conventional path – marriage, job, family. Still, he longed for something more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil the 1990s, Chou said hiking in Taiwan was seen as more of a fringe sport, since large swaths of the mountains were off-limits during the country's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-16178545\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E38-year-period of martial law\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which ended in 1987. As the island embraced democracy in the 1990s, the mountains were opened to the public and hiking became more widespread. After spending much of his vacation time and weekends hiking in the mid-'90s, Chou retired in 1999. He saw an opportunity to get more people involved in the sport he had fallen in love with, so he became a full-time mountain guide, working for the Linkou Mountain Climbing Association and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Feng.taiwan.net.tw\u002Fatt\u002Ffiles\u002FEasy%20Hiking_%E9%9B%BB%E5%AD%90%E6%9B%B8-%E5%B7%B2%E5%A3%93%E7%B8%AE.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eestablishing trails up and down the island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChou's practical knowledge and unmatched awareness of the mountain terrain soon made him a sought-after guide. The Taiwanese government even began to take notice of the sport's increased popularity, thanks in no small part to Chou's efforts. In 2005, then-president Chen Shui-bian summoned Chou for a meeting, and Chou handed the leader a proposal to improve the state of hiking in Taiwan. Soon after, Taipei City started promoting hiking trails within its city limits, budgeting approximately US$2m per year to maintaining trails and linking existing trails into loops – one of which would come to be known as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftaiwan-scene.com\u002Fthe-taipei-grand-trail-discovering-the-secret-wildness-of-the-capital\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaipei Grand Trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 92km route stretching from Yangmingshan in the north of the city to the district of Muzha in the south. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2011, Chou's climbing reached its crescendo when he attempted to break the record for ascending all 100 of Taiwan's 3,000m-plus peaks in the shortest amount of time. It took the previous record-holder six months to ascend all 100 peaks, and he did so with a guide and crew who helped carry supplies up and down, day after day, in 24 separate trips. Chou thought he could do it in just eight trips, and if everything went according to plan, he could finish all 100 ascents and descents in less than three months. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We only had four people [and] 20-30kg packs,\" Chou recalled. \"No matter if there was rain, typhoon or earthquake, we had to go.\" In the end, Chou and three others who made the attempt were able to ascend the 100 peaks in just 87 days, obliterating the previous record. The accomplishment itself isn't what Chou recalls most fondly, but what they were able to do for others along the way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The most meaningful thing is that we tied lots of markers on the trail to help people find their way. In the mountains, once you get lost, you're in trouble,\" he said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to working diligently to change hiking culture in Taiwan, Chou has also been working to make the sport safer. Taiwan's landscape is altered every year by typhoons, and Chou has often mapped out new routes to bypass those washed out by landslides while teaching hikers traditional navigation skills so that they don't rely too heavily on smartphones and other technology, which could always fail.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThanks in part to Chou's decades-long efforts, the Taiwanese government declared 2020 the \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fi30.taiwan.net.tw\u002FEn\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaiwan year of mountain tourism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", and promoted a series of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fi30.taiwan.net.tw\u002FEn\u002FTour\u002FRecommendSubRoute\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Especially designed trail routes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E highlighting the island's ecological and cultural diversity, as well as historical paths such as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fenglish.cw.com.tw\u002Farticle\u002Farticle.action?id=2669\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDanlan Old Trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – considered \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.taipeitimes.com\u002FNews\u002Ffeat\u002Farchives\u002F2018\u002F03\u002F02\u002F2003688514\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaiwan's oldest road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" – that once connected Taipei and Yilan during the Qing Dynasty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut then Covid struck. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow, Taiwan is in the process of setting up federally funded hiking education centres, where guides can receive safety training and the knowledge Chou has been imparting for decades will be passed onto hikers who wish to experience the splendour of Taiwan's high peaks. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMany Taiwanese have grown close to Chou after being introduced to hiking and going on guided trips around the island with him. Some have even been inspired to complete the 100 peaks themselves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJudy Ho of Danshui, New Taipei City, had climbed just eight of the 100 peaks before signing up for a hike with Chou. She had often seen pictures of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fjmlnt-en.forest.gov.tw\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJiaming Lake\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the largest high-altitude body of water on the island, with its famed mirror-like surface beautifully reflecting the sky and the surrounding vista, and dreamed of making the journey to see it in person. To get there meant, three days in, three days out, covering an average of 20km per day over rugged terrain. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We walked from dawn to dusk. The weather refused to cooperate, dumping rain on the group for the first two days, and snow for the third,\" recalled Ho. \"I was exhausted, but I felt so happy.\" With Chou’s guidance, Ho was able to see the lake she dreamt of seeing and experience a new side of her island. \"He's teaching others the skills during the trip,\" she went on, explaining how Chou passed on his encyclopaedic knowledge of local plant and animal life onto her.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChou wants his hikers to walk away with more than just a feeling of accomplishment for arriving at a destination. They call him \"teacher\" out of respect, and he calls them \"students\". He teaches them how to survive hypothermia on the high peaks and points out wildlife many Taiwanese have only seen on nature programmes, pausing when he hears the sound of a muntjac deer or the chattering of macaque monkeys in the forest canopy. Chou describes how broadleaf elephant ear ferns can be folded into water carriers or used as a natural umbrella in the pouring rain, and talks of how to identify various snake species and what to do if one suffers a potentially fatal bite. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDue to the knee injury he is still recovering from, Chou is no longer leading tours into the mountains these days. Instead, he has devoted himself to an entirely new pursuit: walking around Taiwan – a journey known locally as the Huan Dao, or \"round the island\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince March, he has circumnavigated the island two and a half times, sometimes alone and occasionally joined by friends, both old and new. All told, including his journeys up and down Taiwan's various peaks, Chou says he's walked more than 10,000km in Taiwan. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust as he has sought out new paths in the mountains, Chou has also added new routes on his Huan Dao sojourns, mapping out what he calls a \"spiderweb\" path, with offshoots on lesser-known rural mountain trails that he hopes others will take the time to traverse and appreciate once he publishes them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChou has not abandoned the mountains entirely, though. He still feels their call and hopes that others will discover them as a place of unequalled beauty and serenity as he did. Looking back on that first trip to Dabajian nearly three decades ago, it wasn't the near-death experience that dominates his thoughts, but instead what he discovered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I had heard people call Taiwan 'Formosa' (the beautiful island),\" said Chou, \"but only [after hiking up into the mountains] did I understand why. I understood the beauty of Taiwan.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-14T22:47:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Can Taiwan become Asia's next great hiking destination?","headlineShort":"Taiwan's king of the mountains","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"23.6978","longitude":"120.9605","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"By mapping trails, leading ascents and introducing locals to the beauty of their own backyard, one mountaineer has been working tirelessly to put Taiwan on the trekking map.","summaryShort":"He's circumnavigated Taiwan twice and isn't done","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-13T22:47:46.72341Z","entity":"article","guid":"8d22ce16-1775-4813-819e-64acd5cafd4a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:38:50.762818Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881483},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice","_id":"621e445245ceed632a4a825b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmargaret-hedderman"],"bodyIntro":"Known as the \"Switzerland of America\", Ouray is a bustling outdoor recreation hub, particularly for ice climbing – on waterfalls created by a small team of \"ice farmers\".","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere was a rumour going around that a group of climbers was accessing the park illegally before opening day. Pete Davis, operations manager at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fourayicepark.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOuray Ice Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Colorado, set off to investigate. I followed him along the snow-packed edge of the Uncompahgre Gorge. Beneath us were cascading sheets of ice, frozen to the cliffside. The park wasn't due to open for another three days, but everyone – climbers and staff alike – was anxious to get the season started.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Ouray Ice Park sits at the mouth of a narrow box canyon sculpted by the Uncompahgre River. Here on the western edge of the Rocky Mountains in the south-west United States, the landscape pivots quickly from jagged alpine terrain to red rock plateau. Just below the park is Ouray, a historical mining town that's now a bustling hub for outdoor recreation. It's known as the \"Switzerland of America\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bp82lw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A mountain climber looks out at cascading mountains","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs we picked our way up the canyon, Davis used an ice axe to point out the various projects his staff were rushing to complete before opening day. There was signage to erect, a new bridge to inspect, and of course, lots of ice to grow. The waterfalls in the Ouray Ice Park are entirely manmade, created by a small team of \"ice farmers\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe showed me the lines of water pipes and sprinklers situated along the cliff edge. There are more than 200 of these sprinklers, which spray water directly onto the rock, creating walls of ice containing 100-plus climbs. Starting in November when the temperature drops, the ice farmers saturate the rock with water to cool it, essentially building a canvas for the waterfalls. They use existing features on the rock, like overhangs, to grow a variety of routes for all skill levels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough the job involves extensive manual labour in freezing weather, Davis described growing ice as a kind of art form. \"Because it's not really a natural phenomenon to have showerheads, you know, flowing on mountain ice climbs.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bp81v0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A climber dressed in winter gear guides along a cliff's edge","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the wild, climbable ice forms as either a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust\"\u003Efrozen waterfall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or as water seepingout of the rock. The park attempts to mimic both styles. Steve Imhoff, a second-year ice farmer, said their ultimate goal is to create routes that are challenging to both the mind and body by fine-tuning the valves and observing the water spray.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You get up real early in the morning, and the first job is to turn the water off before everyone gets there,\" Imhoff said. \"You get this moment when you're one-on-one with the ice park, just out there in your element.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf half an ice farmer's job is creation, the other half is maintenance and repair. Exposed water pipes in the mountains are prone to freeze and break. Last year, there was a 150ft section of piping suspended in trees that froze twice. They had to scramble into the branches to remove and repair sections, a process that took nearly four days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You get this moment when you're one-on-one with the ice park, just out there in your element – Steve Imhoff","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike most seasonal jobs, ice farming ends when the park closes, usually in March. Some of the farmers leave Ouray to pursue work in other states. Sarah Goodnow, a first-year ice farmer, works as a wildland firefighter, literally dividing her year into fire and ice. She said she's attracted to manual labour in the outdoors, something both jobs offer plenty of.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It just sort of happened,\" Goodnow said. \"Fire and the ice park happened to be the opportunities that presented themselves.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther farmers work as rope access technicians, providing support on wind turbines. Before taking a full-time position at the park, Davis spent his summers working as an archaeologist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bp84b3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Frozen waterfalls","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen Davis and I reached the back of the one-mile-long park, there were no rogue climbers to be found. Either we missed them, or it was nothing but a rumour. With opening day quickly approaching, Davis was hyper-vigilant about preserving the ice. The weather certainly wasn't doing him any favours. This winter has been unusually warm and temperatures, even in December, were not cold enough to make sufficient ice. It even rained a day before the park was set to open, destroying 30% of the ice farmers' efforts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Winter climate is less certain due to the warming of our planet,\" said Heidi Steltzer, Fort Lewis College professor of environment and sustainability and lead author of IPCC SROCC (the Special Report on Oceans and Cryosphere in a Changing Climate). \"Human-made ice may not be possible every year, but in years when it is, [the ice park] offers joy, a gathering place and livelihoods to sustain rural mountain life that's one part of the adaptation puzzle in our heated world.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe gates did eventually open, and the park has been busier than ever. One morning, ice farmers arrived to find 155 people waiting to climb, something unheard of only a few years ago. In total, the park will likely see more than 20,000 visitors this season. Peter O'Neil, executive director of the Ouray Ice Park, attributes it to ice climbing's soaring popularity as well as the gym-like nature of the park.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The fact that it's so accessible helps with the growth of the sport,\" O'Neil said. \"In my time, you had to hike or ski in for multiple hours.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Chr align=\"left\" size=\"1\" width=\"33%\" \u002F\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bp85c1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A climber ascends an icy cliffside","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIce climbing in Ouray has come a long way since its early days in the 1980s, when local adventurers discovered that leaks in the city's hydroelectric pipes had created waterfalls near town in the Uncompahgre Gorge. Suitable to the town's Old West roots, there are tales of outlaw climbers \"accidentally\" puncturing the pipeline with their ice axes to make more waterfalls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough legitimate ice farming began in the early '90s, the park became an official non-profit in 1997. This year, it will host three major ice climbing events, including a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.allinicefest.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efestival for marginalised communities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ficeclimbing.sport\u002Fevents\u002F?id=57\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einternationally sanctioned competition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that will attract top athletes from around the world. Other elite climbers, many preparing for Himalayan and other high-altitude expeditions, come to here to train.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Ice climbing in Ouray has come a long way since its early days in the 1980s","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI returned to the park a few weeks later with a group of new ice climbers. We set up in a wide stretch of canyon, along with 20 or so other people. In front of us was 90ft of pale blue ice, shimmering down the wall. Now I could understand what the ice farmers meant when they referenced the different qualities of ice. There were big bulbous sections called \"cauliflower\", that ice axes sink into with a satisfying \u003Cem\u003Ethunk\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Newer ice hung from cliffs like chandeliers. In other sections there was no ice at all, allowing climbers to use their axes and crampons to ascend the rock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile I was on belay, wrapped in a warm puffy jacket, I noticed several of the park's rangers making their rounds. This is a relatively new position, a result of the park's growing popularity. Rangers welcome climbers, perform head counts and ensure everyone is staying safe. To prepare for opening day, they also helped install new trails, benches, and signage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Building things that will last makes me feel like I'm giving back,\" said Ally Bloom, a ranger and former climbing guide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJungholz: A ski town stuck in the wrong nation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Walk of Peace: Europe's Alps-to-Adriatic hiking trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECan Taiwan become Asia's next great hiking destination?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOthers love being a part of the action.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETres Barbatelli described the power of seeing climbers experience \"joy, fear and misery in the gorge\". For someone who has experienced those same emotions in the park, it's particularly rewarding to see it reflected in others. \"You see the look on their face and you're like, 'I know exactly how you're feeling right now',\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bpm2fr"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A climber walks through snow","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIce climbing, which is often described in terms of its beautiful aesthetics, can certainly be an emotional experience. One of the women I climbed with broke into tears when she finished her first route. She never thought she'd be able to climb anything, let alone a towering wall of ice. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen at last the sun dipped beyond the distant mountains, cold air began to waft through the canyon. We headed into Ouray for dinner. The highway, which is the primary road through town, is lined with Victorian brick buildings. Climbers stomp past a small selection of restaurants and shops in their mountaineering boots and parkas. Not long ago, many of these local businesses closed for the season, awaiting the more lucrative summer months. It was so quiet, kids would sledge down Main Street. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ice park's impact on Ouray is often likened to a ski resort. Without it, there wouldn't be much of a winter economy. I spoke with Lora Slawitschka, president of the Ouray Ice Park, Inc. Board of Directors. Her family owned a hotel in Ouray for 50 years. Slawitschka is no climber, but she joined the board because she understood the importance the park plays in the community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Without the ice farmers and the organisation that they bring to the park, it wouldn't be the ice park it is today,\" Slawitschka said. \"They are truly the folks that make it happen.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-17T21:00:54Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The people who grow ice","headlineShort":"The 'farmers' who grow ice","image":["p0bp8d45"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mountian climbers ascend icy cliffs","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"38.0144711","longitude":"-107.6717404","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Mountian climbers ascend icy cliffs","promoImage":["p0bp8d45"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Known as the \"Switzerland of America\", Ouray is a bustling outdoor recreation hub, particularly for ice climbing – on waterfalls created by a small team of \"ice farmers\".","summaryShort":"The job involves extensive manual labour in freezing weather","tag":["tag\u002Fhiking","tag\u002Fmountain","tag\u002Fnature-outdoors"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-16T21:01:23.742109Z","entity":"article","guid":"0f3c0b80-e1a4-4073-bde6-ec83ed400028","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:42:00.126803Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220216-ouray-ice-farmers-the-people-who-grow-ice","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcolorado","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_colorado_north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881483},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20130711-on-the-mofongo-trail-in-puerto-rico":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20130711-on-the-mofongo-trail-in-puerto-rico","_id":"621e443e45ceed5d546a92de","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"This beloved dish pays tribute to the Caribbean island’s rich history and its embracing culture, both of which continue to permeate its food and its people.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom urban Old\nSan Juan to the beaches of Isla Verde, past the cities of Bayamón and Ponce,\nthrough lush rainforest and striking coastlines, mofongo proudly stands as\nPuerto Rico’s unofficial national dish. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cul\u003E\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Ffeature\u002F20130409-chipping-away-at-the-history-of-fish-and-chips\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERelated article: Chipping away\nat the history of fish and chips\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt its most\nbasic, mofongo is made of fried green plantains mashed with garlic and \u003Cem\u003Echicharrones\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (deep-fried pork skin),\nserved with a buttery-garlic or a peppery- capsicum-tomato Creole sauce.\nTypically the mash is stuffed with a protein, such as chicken, steak, shrimp,\nlobster or crab – at which point it becomes known as \u003Cem\u003Emofongo relleno\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Although green plantains are most common, sweet\nplantains or cassava can also be used, meaning that no two mofongo look the\nsame and there is a little agreement on what constitutes the most\ntraditional. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESearching San Juan\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EMy plane\ntouched down in the early morning near Puerto Rico’s capital San Juan to stormy\nskies and steamy heat. Exiting the airport alongside anticipatory holidaymakers\nand tearful reuniting families, the mission that lay ahead was seemingly\nsimple: to traverse the city streets seeking out the most delicious and most authentic\nmofongo. \n\n\n\n\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBright\npinks, greens, turquoises and yellows colour the houses and shop fronts in Old\nSan Juan, a colonial neighbourhood that dates to the 1500s. Here the hilly streets\nwind up and down around busy seaports on one side and the 18th-century Spanish\nfort \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Fsaju\u002Findex.htm\"\u003ECastillo de San Cristóbal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\non the other. Lofty palm trees and emerald tropical plants dot the sidewalks\nand the charming plazas. History runs deep here, and on the hunt for mofongo,\nOld San Juan seemed like a logical start. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EDucking in\nto \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.travelandleisure.com\u002Ftravel-guide\u002Fold-san-juan\u002Frestaurants\u002Fel-jibarito\"\u003EEl\nJibarito\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Calle Sol, Puerto Rican flags hung proudly from the walls. A\ntelevision playing a telanova (Spanish soap opera) was perched precariously\nabove the handful of wooden tables, adding to the cacophony of Spanish and\nEnglish. Like many San Juan restaurants, the lines between a tourist haunt and\na local favourite were blurred, but the love for El Jibarito’s mofongo was not\n– with many claiming it the best in the city. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EHere, the green\nplantain mofongo was served as a side dish, the perfect starchy accompaniment\nto fried chicken or pork. It was dense and cut nicely by the outrageously\ngarlicky and salty white sauce served alongside. Their cassava mofongo was particularly\nlight, tasting like flash-fried crispy mashed potato. But their “trifongo” – a\nmash-up of sweet plantains, cassava and green plantain – was the winner. The\nhint of sugar from the sweet plantain blended perfectly with the fluffier\ncassava and the savoury, starchier green plantain. Without stewed chicken or\nshrimp, this naked mofongo put the root vegetables at centre stage to\nresoundingly positive reviews. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EDown the\nstreet in Old San Juan’s eastern end sits tiny \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.cafepuertorico.com\u002Fintro.html\"\u003ECafé Puerto Rico\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Plaza\nde Colón, a pleasant square that dates back to the first Columbus expedition in\n1493. Another local-meets-tourist favourite, the mofongo here comes stuffed\nwith meat and fish; choose from fillings as diverse as diced pork to octopus, grouper\nto chicken. My cassava version carried abundantly flavourful chicken, stewed in\na garlicky creamy white sauce made with lashings of butter and white wine and speckled\nwith herbs. If you did not look too closely, this mofongo relleno could have\npassed as a chicken potpie, with the cassava masquerading as pastry crust. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EBut pinning\nmofongo to a specific place in Puerto Rico is challenging, if not outright\nimpossible. The country is a small island and the dish is found throughout,\nplucking ingredients and techniques from all over. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA multi-cultural history\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EFlanked by\nthe Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, the stunning island of Puerto Rico is\nsteeped in African, Spanish, Taíno and North American cultures. Mofongo\nepitomises this cross-cultural narrative, though its story admittedly began as\nan oppressive one. \n\n\n\n\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the\nSpanish conquistadors landed in Puerto Rico in the early 1500s, harsh colonisation\nof the Taínos, the island’s indigenous people, ensued. After exhausting and\ndepleting the local population, colonialists looked across to West Africa and\nbegan importing slaves, who brought with them fufu, mofongo’s culinary ancestor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EA staple of\nWest and Central Africa, fufu is similarly made of starchy root vegetables –\ncassava, yams and plantains – that are boiled then pounded into doughy balls and\nserved with sauce or soup. When brought over to Puerto Rico, fufu merged with\nthe gastronomic traditions of the Taíno and Spanish to create the now revered\nmofongo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom the\nTaíno came the mortar-and-pestle-like wooden \u003Cem\u003Epilón \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethat is used to mash the dish’s main ingredients. Recent\nexcavations of Taíno sites near the city of Ponce, 120km southwest of San Juan,\nfound evidence of the pilón’s pre-Columbian use, revealing its deeply rooted\nhistory. From the Spaniards, mofongo pulls from the Iberia-influenced \u003Cem\u003Esofrito\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – sautéed onions, peppers, herbs\nand garlic – which is commonly used in the plantain mash. And mofongo’s basic\ningredients, such as green plantains and sweet capsicum, are grown in abundance\nin Puerto Rico. The addition of chicharrones\u003Cem\u003E\n\u003C\u002Fem\u003Espeaks to the country’s modern-day adoration for fried pork skin, sold most\nfamously on street-side wooden carts in Bayamón, Puerto Rico’s second largest\ncity, 19km southwest of San Juan. Together, these influences have fused to\nproduce an iconic Puerto Rican dish as diverse as the country itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ELearning to cook mofongo\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EThough\npinpointing mofongo’s exact origins is a challenge, the connection to the\nSpanish conquistadors who settled in the capital makes San Juan a worthwhile\nplace to learn how to prepare the dish. \n\n\n\n\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sanjuanfoodtours.com\u002F\"\u003EFlavors of San Juan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a group of\nin-the-know locals who host cooking classes and food and cultural tours throughout\nthe city. At their mofongo course, Puerto Rican chef Kathy Libier spoke\nknowledgably about the importance and irreverence of mofongo on the island,\nwhile simultaneously cooking her version. Chopping cilantro, sweet Cubanelle\npeppers, garlic and onions, a Spanish-influenced sofrito took shape. Green\nplantains were peeled, chopped, fried and then mashed in a pilón as the sofrito\nand a rich chicken stock were added. As a paste began to form, a handful of\nchicharrones were tossed in. The mix was then moulded into a small bowl,\ninverted on a plate and topped with shredded chicken that had been stewed in a\nCreole sauce of sweet peppers, tomatoes, spices and onions. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003ELibier’s\nversion was unlike the mofongos at Café Puerto Rico or El Jibarito, both in\ntaste and texture. Hers sang with loud flavours, bringing depth and\nsophistication to the dish. And though Libier dismissed the others as\ninauthentic, there appear to be no hard-and-fast rules when it comes to\nmofongo. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBeachside in Isla Verde\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EThis\nhypothesis was reiterated elsewhere. About 10km east of Old San Juan in the\nAtlantic Ocean sits Isla Verde, Puerto Rico’s answer to Cancun. Hotels line the\nbeach and holidaymakers sip on piña coladas (another San Juan-born favourite),\nwhile alternating between the casinos and the ocean. \n\n\n\n\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAsk any\nlocal here – and there are many – where to find the best mofongo, and their\neyes light up. A unanimous favourite is \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.platosrestaurant.com\u002F\"\u003EPlatos\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a charmless, contemporary\nrestaurant with a mofongo that garners rave reviews and loyalists. Their skirt\nsteak mofongo with Creole sauce offers a nicely balanced flavour that carries\ndepth and richness. The thinly sliced meat is well executed, cooked to just\npink in the middle, then hidden beneath a volcano of buttery, garlicky mashed\ngreen plantains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOnce again,\nmofongo presents itself different than before, but no less Puerto Rican. \n\n\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20130711-on-the-mofongo-trail-in-puerto-rico-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20130711-on-the-mofongo-trail-in-puerto-rico-1"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2013-07-15T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"On the mofongo trail in Puerto Rico","headlineShort":"On the mofongo trail in Puerto Rico","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This beloved dish pays tribute to the Caribbean island’s rich history and its embracing culture, both of which continue to permeate its food and its people.","summaryShort":"A dish that is as diverse as the country itself","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T21:29:37.669167Z","entity":"article","guid":"320f5abc-9fc1-432f-a979-8dbfb410a386","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20130711-on-the-mofongo-trail-in-puerto-rico","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T00:31:40.090749Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20130711-on-the-mofongo-trail-in-puerto-rico","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881484},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","_id":"621e445d45ceed72965a3b7b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Although the curry-spiced stew, porc-colombo, is the national dish of Guadeloupe, it's the humble bokit that has captured the hearts of the Caribbean archipelago.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the sun-scorched streets of Pointe-a Pitre, Guadeloupe, buzzy energy bubbled up from the narrow lanes and the scent of spices and frying dough mingled with the sea breeze. The first time I arrived on the archipelago, I was struck by the chaotic mix of old world and new: crayon-coloured 18th-Century buildings next to storefront mannequins dressed in patterned leggings and tanks; a graffiti artist spray painting a crumbling 19th-Century warehouse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll my senses were activated as l sipped fresh sugarcane juice and strolled around the waterfront. I understood immediately why Guadeloupe is known for \u003Cem\u003Ela belle la vie\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or the beautiful life. The zest for living is woven into every aspect of the islands' lifestyle, from the joyful rhythms of local \u003Cem\u003Ezouk\u003C\u002Fem\u003E music to the \u003Cspan\u003Erecord numbers for \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmarketsize.net\u002Fchampaign-consumption\u002F\"\u003EC\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmarketsize.net\u002Fchampaign-consumption\u002F\"\u003Ehampagne drinking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but it's especially evident in the devoted preparation of food. I sampled complex dishes like \u003Cem\u003Eferoces \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ed'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eavocat, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ea spicy avocado salad with cassava and codfish, as well as the creole stew of breadfruit, plantains and tripe called \u003Cem\u003Ebe'bele. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EBut nothing seemed to be as ubiquitous and beloved as the source of that fried dough aroma, the almighty \u003Cem\u003Ebokit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ultimate Guadeloupan street food, bokit is a hefty sandwich fashioned from fried dough and a creative range of ingredients that's sold from stands, trucks and cafes that dot the island. I entered a tiny eatery with a faded sign and a few tables and chairs. A mind-numbing list of ingredient choices – including lamb, lobster, conch, curried chicken, pepper sauce, cheeses, curry sauce and ketchup – lined a wall over a grill where the owner was frying two long pieces of dough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI ordered saltfish with sweet peppers and Creole sauce (made of scotch bonnet peppers, onions, parsley, garlic and lime) and watched him stuff the ingredients between the fried bread and wrap it in foil. I took a bite and the flavours danced around my mouth, forming a happy mix. The satisfying blend of fat and freshness along with the array of fillings made it the perfect symbol of Guadeloupe's multicultural influences. The bokit is so much more than a sandwich; it's a portable feast and cultural symbol.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Bokit taco on left and bokit skewers on right","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn overseas department of France located in the Eastern Caribbean between Antigua and Dominica, Guadeloupe is composed of five islands, with Grande Terre and Bass Terre the largest. After the abolition of slavery in 1848, indentured workers from South India were brought to the archipelago for cheap labour, creating a vibrant culture that combines African, French, indigenous and Indian influences. The simple preparation and varied fixings of bokits perfectly reflect this cultural mix, resulting in a bountiful and flavourful dish paired with the creativity of French cooking techniques.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The\u003Cem\u003E bokit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is a festive sandwich. It is a dish that unites,\" said Naike' Claudeon, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbokit-center.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBokit Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a stylish restaurant that serves healthy, gourmet versions of bokit in Pointe-a-Pitre\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\"When we think of a bokit\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E we often associate it with a family outing after visits to the cemetery or at the carnival. We also have to talk about the \u003Cem\u003Edankit \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(simple fried bread) from which the bokit is inspired.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA genius cheese dish invented by slaves\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrinidad's addictive spicy street snack\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Jamaican fruit that could kill you\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe added: \"It is a dish that has evolved a lot throughout its history. It's a dish that is not set in stone. Everyone can create their own. You may find a way to make it in Basse-Terre that you won't find in Grande-Terre. The bokit is very versatile.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe history of the bokit stretches back to the 19th Century, around the time of the abolition of slavery in Guadeloupe. Simple fried dough is typically called johnnycakes throughout most of the Caribbean, where the indigenous practice of cooking corn cakes on hot stones was adopted by enslaved Africans. The fried dough is called dankit in Guadeloupe, and stuffing it with whatever meat, cheese, or vegetables were on hand developed into a hearty meal for poor workers who needed a cheap and filling dish to sustain them during the long work day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Pile of bokit skewers covered in melted chocolate and powdered sugar","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Our very resourceful enslaved ancestors created the bokit because at that time they did not have an oven or the necessary means, but they had to eat and they had water, flour and oil,\" said Claudeon. \"Hence the idea of frying the dough instead of baking it. Most Caribbean islands have their version of bokit with a different name.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe evolution of the bokit mirrors the story of Guadeloupe. As the island developed more industries besides agriculture and the towns grew bigger with commerce, the bokit acquired more sophistication and variations. \"Originally the bokit was made without yeast and was called dankit. [But] over the years the recipe evolved and yeast was added to it [inspired by the prevalence of French bread] and it then became the bokit that we know today,\" explained Colette Chicot, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbokaraibes-restaurant.business.site\u002F?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBokaraibes,\u003C\u002Fa\u003E a bokit cafe in Basse Terre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Bokit is to Guadeloupe what the baguette is to mainland France or what the naan is to India","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Bokit is to Guadeloupe what the baguette is to mainland France or what the naan is to India,\" she added. \"The bokit is truly a sandwich that has evolved so much and is still evolving. For example, I'm known for making bokits with breadfruit flour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, I have savoured many exciting bokit variations. One option showcased the keen skills of French technique, with stewed pork topped with julienned cabbage and carrots. Sprinkled with local sugar cane syrup, the result was a sweet and savoury dish that reflected the French appreciation of a mix of flavours and textures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother time, sitting in the shade of a lush sea grape tree on the golden sands in Sainte Anne, a popular beachfront town in Grande Terre, I enjoyed a an Indian-inspired bokit bursting with chickpeas, cabbage and potatoes and dressed with turmeric and tamarind sauce. As I licked the sauce from my fingers, I leaned against the trunk and watched an eager queue of patrons line up at the small truck for bokits stuffed with everything from aubergine to mutton.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Bokit on yellow tray with cucumber and carrot","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The bokit was first marketed as a food truck sandwich,\" said Claudeon. \"Mothers would sell bokits in food trucks to make money to feed their children. At the time, we had two types of bokit: the bokit stuffed before frying; and the bokit stuffed after frying.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPreserving the textures and flavours of the stuffed ingredients has made stuffing after frying the most popular method – but everything else remains open for creative interpretation. At the Bokit Center, the dough can be made with trendy ingredients like turmeric or charcoal; while a taco-like version called \u003Cem\u003Ebokitos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is popular, as are skewers made from bokit dough called \"bokit sticks\" featuring meat and vegetables or chocolate and powdered sugar for dessert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the curry-spiced stew, \u003Cem\u003Eporc-colombo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is the national dish of Guadeloupe, bokits have captured the hearts of the Caribbean island for their versatility and easy accessibility. \"Friday is bokit day in Guadeloupe, \" said Chicot. \"It's the weekend, everybody is looking for comfort food and the bokit is practical; it's food on the go.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe added: \"The bokit is ours. It truly represents our history, our soul, our genes. To make bokits is to revive one of the most beautiful symbols of the island. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-12T19:31:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Bokit: The fried food that defines an island","headlineShort":"The fried food that defines an island","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"16.2650","longitude":"61.5510","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although the curry-spiced stew, porc-colombo, is the national dish of Guadeloupe, it's the humble bokit that has captured the hearts of the Caribbean archipelago.","summaryShort":"No food is as ubiquitous and beloved as the almighty bokit","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-11T19:33:19.084942Z","entity":"article","guid":"b81f0ee0-fab6-486c-9820-6524482dc993","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:04.780591Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881484},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20120710-puerto-ricos-pork-highway":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20120710-puerto-ricos-pork-highway","_id":"621e443345ceed517b638b98","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Hidden away in Puerto Rico’s Carite Forest is one of the island’s revered culinary traditions – complete with slow-roasted swine and live meringue music.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEarly Saturday morning in the hills of Puerto\nRico, local chefs along a route known as the Pork Highway gathered their\nmarinated, 150lb swines, skewered them nose to toes and hoisted them over spits\nfor eight hours of slow roasting. As the sun rose, they sliced plantains to\nprepare \u003Cem\u003Etostones\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (twice-fried green\nplantains) and boiled \u003Cem\u003Egandules\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (pigeon\npeas) with rice. By mid-afternoon, the smoke from the kitchens would clear and\nthe strip of road along PR-184 would suddenly overflow with locals, hungry for\nfood and live meringue music.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cul\u003E\u003Cli\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Ffeature\u002F20111116-puerto-ricos-contrasting-eco-parks\"\u003ERelated article: Puerto Rico’s contrasting eco-parks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHidden away in Puerto Rico’s Carite\nForest, Guavate, a small town in the mountainous Cayey region, is the kind of place\nthat makes hotel concierges say, “You want to go \u003Cem\u003Ethere\u003C\u002Fem\u003E?” Fifty kilometres outside of the colonial capital San Juan, Guavate\nis far from the island’s popular casinos and pristine sands. Escaping the\ncrowded beaches, however, gives a grander perspective on the authentic Puerto\nRican lifestyle, especially if you are looking to experience one of the\nisland’s revered culinary traditions – eating at a \u003Cem\u003Elechonera\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a restaurant that specializes in \u003Cem\u003Elechón\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or whole roasted pig, open every Saturday and Sunday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\u003Cp\u003EPigs were originally brought to the\nisland from Spain during Christopher Columbus’ second voyage in 1493, and they\nhave been a staple in Puerto Rican cuisine ever since. Add to that a change in\nrule from native Taíno to Spanish to the American commonwealth it is today, and\nPuerto Rico’s eclectic menu reflects its historic roots with Caribbean flare.\nIn addition to pork, the lechoneras of Guavate serve mile-high platters of\ntraditional dishes, from sweet plantains (\u003Cem\u003Eamarillos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E)\nto blood sausage (\u003Cem\u003Emorcilla\u003C\u002Fem\u003E). \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\u003Cp\u003ESetting off with empty stomachs, my\nboyfriend and I asked the front desk at our hotel for directions, but the clerk\nraised her eyebrows in alarm. “Trust me,” she said. “You don’t want to go, there.\nIt’s just a big party in the jungle.” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\u003Cp\u003EWas her hesitance to disclose the\nlocation an attempt to steer us clear of perilous jungle territory? Or was she\ntrying to protect a secret spot known mostly by locals? Whatever her motivation, she finally caved and penned a jagged\nline down PR-184, marking an X in the middle of nowhere. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\u003Cp\u003EDriving away from the beach, we merged\nonto the easily navigable Highway 52, where 55km later we took a sharp left onto\nPR-184. Winding\nthrough the hills, the surrounding forest enclosed the road in a verdant canopy,\nwith roadside kiosks sprouting out of it to sell \u003Cem\u003Eempanadas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (meat and potato-filled fried pastries), \u003Cem\u003Emofongo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (mashed plantains filled with\nmeat and vegetables, served in savoury sauce) and beach towels bearing graphics\nof bikini-clad women. The high-pitched chirps of coqui frogs echoed among the\nvines. When our iPhone lost service and the poorly drawn map failed, we used\nour senses to navigate. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\n\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\nWindows down, we first smelled the smoke.\nThen, as we rounded the curve, Pork Highway came to life — a buxom woman blended\npina coladas and served them in pineapple cups; a man in a straw hat played a \u003Cem\u003Eguiro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a percussion\ninstrument made from a hollowed gourd); and to the beat of salsa, chefs swung\nmachetes, chopping the pigs into bite-sized morsels. Dozens of open-air lechoneras\nlike El Monte, El Tabonuco, and Los Piños lined the streets, with swines proudly\npresented on window-front grills, diners filling the indoor picnic tables and crowds\ntaking to the large dance floors. While easy to spot upon arrival, the\nlechoneras are so remote, they do not have addresses or phone numbers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\u003Cp\u003EWe settled on El Rancho Original, the\nfirst locale that opened on the highway. There, the vibrations of salsa music\nand dancing feet shook the walls as we hopped in line to order at the counter. Piled\nhigh with cassava, \u003Cem\u003Ecuajo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (stewed pork\nstomach) and \u003Cem\u003Elonganiza\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Spanish\nsausage), the dishes took up an entire table inside the creek-side bungalow. The lechón merited its own table.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\u003Cp\u003EWith orange soda and food in hand, we\nscuttled through the boisterous crowd, shaking our hips and nodding at the\npeople we passed as we held our plates overhead. While the cuts remained\nmysterious — it is difficult to know whether you are eating leg, shoulder or\ntail when the meat is cut with a machete — the tender and juicy texture complimented the\ncaramelised skin made crisp by hours of slow roasting.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\n\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\nBellies full, we drove back down PR-184 following the falling sun toward the\nCaribbean Sea, cruising along the coast to reach Ponce, a colonial port town\nwhere long ago pirates raided Spanish ships coming into the harbour. As the sun\nset, the boats creaked and wailed along the docks and on the pier, everyone\nsipped pina coladas and danced, once again, to live salsa music. “Asi es la\nvida,” they sang, “Such is life.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20120710-puerto-ricos-pork-highway-0"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2012-07-13T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Puerto Rico’s Pork Highway","headlineShort":"Puerto Rico’s Pork Highway","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Hidden away in Puerto Rico’s Carite Forest is one of the island’s revered culinary traditions – complete with slow-roasted swine and live meringue music.","summaryShort":"A revered, but hard to find, culinary specialty","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T19:57:11.360125Z","entity":"article","guid":"7a30362b-c2b7-45ec-bd55-da8c002b9353","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20120710-puerto-ricos-pork-highway","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-24T22:54:44.38096Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20120710-puerto-ricos-pork-highway","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881484},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico","_id":"621e445945ceed7045053766","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Frichard-morgan"],"bodyIntro":"Rooted in the rural tradition of cocinaos (casual cookouts), Bacoa takes rustic whimsy and elevates it into culinary excellence and once-in-a-lifetime meals.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the wee hours of a debauched night at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lafactoriapr.com\"\u003ELa Factoría\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the world-renowned bar in the Old San Juan neighbourhood of the Puerto Rican capital, one of its owners, Leslie Cofresi, swung his arm around my neck in a half-hug, half-headlock. \"Tomorrow,\" he said, \"I will take you to real Puerto Rico. Be ready.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe following afternoon we bounced along dirt roads in his Jeep through the countryside's lush tropical hills and mountains for an hour before coming to a red-roofed farmhouse in a clearing by a pond. The restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbacoapr.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBacoa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, opened in August 2019; by October of that year, humanitarian chef José Andrés was already visiting and shooting a television show there with Spanish adventurer Jesús Calleja.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn January 2022, Lucas Sin, one of Food & Wine's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.foodandwine.com\u002Fchefs\u002Fbest-new-chefs-2021-lucas-sin\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebest new chefs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of 2021, took a $100 taxi from San Juan straight to a nearly four-hour dinner at Bacoa (then another $100 taxi back), describing the restaurant as \"seriously one of the most special restaurants in America\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"That was my favourite meal in a long time – maybe the last two years – and certainly probably one of those meals I'm going to remember for the rest of my life, on par with insane technical achievements at fine-dining tasting menus,\" said Sin, also comparing Bacoa to New York's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Ffood\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb08k1h2h\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlue Hill at Stone Barns\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, often cited as one of America's best restaurants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bnz9r2"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Bacoa restaurant at sunset with greenery in foreground","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, the owners jokingly called Bacoa \"Finca Azul\" (Blue Farm) as, cocktail in hand, I got a tour of their greenhouse, vegetable garden and chicken coop and learned more about the restaurant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBacoa's trio of chefs divide up the menu: Raúl Correa on desserts and vegetables; René Marichal on fish and meat; and Xavier Pacheco on Creole stews and rice dishes. Although all three are accomplished, food lovers may hold Pacheco in particularly high esteem given he and the late Anthony Bourdain shared three meals together, including one where Pacheco cooked \u003Cem\u003Ewahoo escabeche\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fried wahoo fish marinated in a vinegary sauce) with \u003Cem\u003Eguanimes\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (similar to corn tamales) for Bourdain on a boat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20130711-on-the-mofongo-trail-in-puerto-rico\"\u003EOn the mofongo trail in Puerto Rico\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe fried food that defines an island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20120710-puerto-ricos-pork-highway\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPuerto Rico's Pork Highway\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESuch rustic whimsy is the heart of the restaurant's rough-and-ready charm. \"Bacoa is the type of restaurant everyone wants to run and the type of restaurant everyone wants to eat at because it's such fulfilling cooking,\" said Sin. \"Because they're cooking primarily for locals, they don't have to cook through the lens of outsiders who don't know the culture.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERural life in Puerto Rico is built around casual cookouts called \u003Cem\u003Ecocinaos, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eoften with \u003Cem\u003Ehogueras\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (bonfires). They are commercialised as \u003Cem\u003Echinchorros\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, roadside shacks making savoury snacks (such as \u003Cem\u003Ealcapurrias\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and \u003Cem\u003Eempanadas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) cooked with a \u003Cem\u003Efogón\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a hearth or contained fire). A weekend ritual is a \u003Cem\u003Echinchorreo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a kind of pub crawl from chinchorro to chinchorro (almost all serve alcohol).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"For us, keeping it casual is part of the greatness","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Most people call Bacoa a glorified chinchorro and I like it that way,\" said Marichal. \"For us, keeping it casual is part of the greatness.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bnz8zs"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Flames in the fogón at Bacoa","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Ffood\u002Fchayote\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EBacoa's kitchen amplifies its fogón with a \u003Cem\u003Eburén\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, traditionally a clay and stone griddle used by the island's native Taíno people. Menus are seasonal, of course, but may include rabbits from a neighbouring farm; brined, smoked, grilled and served in lettuce wraps. Or perhaps a wedge of roasted \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Ffood\u002Fchayote\"\u003Echayote\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or pumpkin lashed with olive oil and swaddled in fermented cashew ricotta. And hopefully \u003Cem\u003Ecazuela\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a sweet potato dessert that nods to the island's African roots (I hate sweet potato but could've eaten that dessert all night).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBacoa's continuation and re-popularisation of burén cooking is a win for Puerto Rico and its tourists, according to the most venerated chef on the island, María Dolores de Jesús, who runs a burén restaurant of mostly \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210406-the-crucial-legacy-missing-from-us-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epre-contact\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Taíno dishes. \"I feel very satisfied to see younger generations connect with older traditions and older realities, older truths,\" she told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBacoa's most winsome metrics are also its most imprecise: the pitter-patter as children scamper and the decibels of their delight. Unlike most fine dining or hipster haunts, Bacoa is for families and other large parties because it serves feasts, not meals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Any family can go there. It's not $200. It's affordable even though it's a very cool experience,\" said Crystal Díaz, who runs \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.travelandleisure.com\u002Ffood-drink\u002Fel-pretexto-cayey-puerto-rico-culinary-retreat\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEl Pretexto\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Bacoa-like bed-and-breakfast in the mountains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn my visit, I gorged on \u003Cem\u003Emorcilla\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (blood sausage) sandwiches and cod fritters served with \"crack\" ketchup (lifted by cilantro and slow-cooked garlic), along with gulps of crab \u003Cem\u003Efunche\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a grits-like stew, and crunches of \u003Cem\u003Echicharrón\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fried pig skin) with citrus horseradish gremolata. I scribbled a note at dinner: \"Bacoa puts the epic in epicurean.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bnz8yy"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The chef owners of Bacoa: René Marichal, Xavier Pacheco, and Raúl Correa","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"So much of Puerto Rican food is comfort food that has gotten way too comfortable,\" explained Correa. \"It doesn't have to be rice and beans every time. It can be local white beans with shellfish and white wine. Let's try it with oranges. Maybe charred eggplant. It doesn't always have to be the same hearty stew with sausage. It can have a nice local snapper. Maybe goat cheese with smoked cold cucumber. Very simple. Very local. Not very traditional, but still very Puerto Rican.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It will probably be the most perfect whole fish you've ever eaten because they're so intentional about technique and ingredients","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vondiaz.com\u002Fbooks\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EVon Diaz, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vondiaz.com\u002Fbooks\"\u003ECoconuts and Collards: Recipes and Stories from Puerto Rico to the Deep South\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, agrees. \"Puerto Rican cuisine has been sort of stuck in time for a really long time,\" she told me. \"When you go [to Bacoa] you feel like you've suddenly arrived in another world… You eat something simple – a whole grilled fish – and it will probably be the most perfect whole fish you've ever eaten because they're so intentional about technique and ingredients.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite Puerto Rico's second-class status as a US colony, Correa sees Bacoa as an act of culinary equality. \"In the mainland, you go to Houston and there's a cuisine. You go to Seattle and there's a cuisine. Why should Puerto Rico be any different?\" he asked. \"We want to experience what everyone else is experiencing, too.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECorrea has been inspired by yoghurt-marinated lamb in Tel Aviv. Marichal by lamb skewers on a recent visit to \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fkochinyc.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKochi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Michelin-starred Korean restaurant in New York. And Pacheco by simple bread with tomato in Barcelona. For a while, Bacoa served fried rennet, typically a Brazilian dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We get flavours and techniques from all over the world. That doesn't mean our food is global,\" said Marichal. \"It's Puerto Rican with an education. It's Puerto Rican with a passport, with a life in the 21st Century. We just want to get away from what people usually think.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bnz8yw"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Selection of dishes at Bacoa","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bostonherald.com\u002F2017\u002F04\u002F19\u002Fpuerto-ricos-star-chef-returns-to-first-love-restaurants\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EGiovanna Huyke, the Boston chef widely regarded as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bostonherald.com\u002F2017\u002F04\u002F19\u002Fpuerto-ricos-star-chef-returns-to-first-love-restaurants\u002F\"\u003E\"the Julia Child of Puerto Rico\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E,\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E called such novel thinking Bacoa's \"essential escape\". Deriding popular Puerto Rican prepared seasonings and bouillon, she complained that \"everything tastes the same\" before setting Bacoa apart: \"Bacoa touches Puerto Rican flavour before tourism. It is finding our character away from our caricature.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat character was exemplified in the green plantain \u003Cem\u003Etostones\u003C\u002Fem\u003E served with dewy dollops of caviar that I wolfed down, a frequent appetiser at Bacoa that began when María Mercedes Grubb, another prominent Puerto Rican chef, kept bringing tubs of the delicacy for her hangout sessions with Bacoa's chefs – what she called \"the perfect setup\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrubb flagged that chickens, coconuts, plantains, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20120710-puerto-ricos-pork-highway\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epigs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and rice are all invasive species. \"When people say 'Puerto Rican', what do they mean?\" she asked. \"Or what do they think they mean? If you want to have a conversation about authenticity, it will be over a meal of fish and yucca and that's about it. People need to take authenticity with a grain of salt and realise there's so much more [to Puerto Rican cuisine] than \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20130711-on-the-mofongo-trail-in-puerto-rico\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emofongo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor me, Bacoa's power lies in its approach to the traveller's quixotic quest for connection despite fleeting itineraries. The day of my visit, I had made plans for later that evening, but as hours passed, my interest in being elsewhere dwindled and then vanished, like a romance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs my afternoon with Cofresi tipped into night, swirls of cigar smoke added to the sense that this was gastronomic Brigadoon, a once-in-a-lifetime meal for me and a Sunday for him. I wondered: what if the best US restaurant is in the Puerto Rican rainforest?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bnz8x6"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Bacoa restaurant courtyard","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I can't believe this place is real,\" I told Pacheco, as the island's tiny iconic tree frogs, the \u003Cem\u003Ecoquis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, sang their signature lullaby from the moonlit woods around us.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Bacoa is an idea but it's also real,\" Pacheco replied. \"If that makes you confused or uncomfortable, that's OK. Have fun going back in time to a year when you would be more comfortable. But the future is for us. And I can tell you a secret: the present is for us, too.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003E World's Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-16T21:21:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Is America's best restaurant in Puerto Rico?","headlineShort":"Is this America's next best restaurant?","image":["p0bnz9t6"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"18.227456","longitude":"-65.920997","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"621e44a645ceed11e20f4866"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bnz9t6"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20130711-on-the-mofongo-trail-in-puerto-rico","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20120710-puerto-ricos-pork-highway"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Rooted in the rural tradition of cocinaos (casual cookouts), Bacoa takes rustic whimsy and elevates it into culinary excellence and once-in-a-lifetime meals.","summaryShort":"\"I can't believe this place is real\"","tag":["tag\u002Frestaurant","tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-15T21:22:52.216169Z","entity":"article","guid":"9a04f3f4-6733-470d-b73b-d3eb7fa8bd15","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:54.802494Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220215-is-americas-best-restaurant-in-puerto-rico","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fpuerto-rico","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcaribbean"],"destinationStat":"caribbean_puerto-rico_caribbean","cacheLastUpdated":1647032881483}},"tags":{"tag\u002Ffood-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Ffood-drink","_id":"621e44a345ceed22c376b1f1","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest food and drink stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Food & 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