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Tartu: Estonia's Intellectual and Theater Capital

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data-article-url="https://www.themoscowtimes.com/2012/12/23/tartu-estonias-intellectual-and-theater-capital-a20396" data-article-title="Tartu: Estonia's Intellectual and Theater Capital"> <div class="row-flex gutter-2"> <div class="col"> <article class="article article--news"> <header class="article__header "> <h1><a href="https://www.themoscowtimes.com/2012/12/23/tartu-estonias-intellectual-and-theater-capital-a20396">Tartu: Estonia's Intellectual and Theater Capital</a> </h1> <h2></h2> </header> <div class="article__byline byline "> <div class="row-flex"> <div class="col"> <div class="byline__details"> <div class="byline__details__column"> <div class="byline__author"> By <a href="https://www.themoscowtimes.com/author/sergey-chernov" class="byline__author__name" title="Sergey Chernov">Sergey Chernov</a> </div> <time class="byline__datetime timeago" datetime="2012-12-23T21:00:00+04:00" y-use="Timeago"> Dec. 23, 2012 </time> </div> </div> </div> <div class="col-auto"> <div class="byline__social"> <div class="social"> <a href="https://www.facebook.com/sharer/sharer.php?u=https://www.themoscowtimes.com/2012/12/23/tartu-estonias-intellectual-and-theater-capital-a20396" class="social__icon social__icon--facebook" target="_blank" title="Share on Facebook"><i class="fa fa-brands fa-facebook"></i></a> <a href="https://twitter.com/intent/tweet/?url=https://www.themoscowtimes.com/2012/12/23/tartu-estonias-intellectual-and-theater-capital-a20396&text=Tartu: Estonia&#039;s Intellectual and Theater Capital" class="social__icon social__icon--x-twitter" target="_blank" title="Share on Twitter"><i class="fa fa-brands fa-x-twitter"></i></a> <a href="https://telegram.me/share/url?url=https://www.themoscowtimes.com/2012/12/23/tartu-estonias-intellectual-and-theater-capital-a20396" class="social__icon social__icon--telegram" target="_blank" title="Share on Telegram"><i class="fa fa-paper-plane"></i></a> <a href="https://wa.me/?text=https://www.themoscowtimes.com/2012/12/23/tartu-estonias-intellectual-and-theater-capital-a20396" class="social__icon social__icon--whatsapp"><i class="fa fa-whatsapp" target="_blank" title="Share on WhatsApp"></i></a> <a href="mailto:?subject=Shared: Tartu: Estonia&#039;s Intellectual and Theater Capital&body=An article from The Moscow Times: https://www.themoscowtimes.com/2012/12/23/tartu-estonias-intellectual-and-theater-capital-a20396" class="social__icon social__icon--email"><i class="fa fa-envelope" target="_blank" title="Share with email"></i></a> <a href="https://flipboard.com" data-flip-widget="shareflip" class="social__icon social__icon--flipboard" title="Share on Flipboard"><img src="https://static.themoscowtimes.com/img/flipboard_mrrw.png" /></a> <a href="https://www.themoscowtimes.com/2012/12/23/tartu-estonias-intellectual-and-theater-capital-a20396/pdf" class="social__icon social__icon--pdf"><i class="fa fa-file-pdf-o" target="_blank" title="Download as PDF"></i></a> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <figure class="article__featured-image featured-image"> <img src="https://static.themoscowtimes.com/image/article_1360/49/56042b781a8b40ee9cfb1a686ee3a241.jpg" /> <figcaption class=""> <span class="article__featured-image__caption featured-image__caption"> Tartu’s Town Hall Square around Christmas time, with an old trade boat decorated for the holidays in the center. </span> <span class="article__featured-image__credits featured-image__credits"> </span> </figcaption> </figure> <div class="article__content-container"> <div class="article__content" y-name="article-content"> <div data-id="article-block-type" class="article__block article__block--html article__block--column "> <p>It takes only a&nbsp;two-and-a-half-hour smooth drive (185 kilometers) to&nbsp;get from&nbsp;Estonia's capital Tallinn to&nbsp;the town of&nbsp;Tartu, even though the&nbsp;south-east route crosses almost all of&nbsp;this small Baltic country.</p> <p>The&nbsp;bus speeds past the&nbsp;country's timeless landscapes of&nbsp;snow-covered forests and&nbsp;fields, with the&nbsp;occasional wooden house to&nbsp;be spied.</p> <p>Based around Tartu University, with a&nbsp;large proportion of&nbsp;its population being students and&nbsp;teachers, the&nbsp;town is seen as the&nbsp;nation's intellectual capital. In&nbsp;winter, the&nbsp;large number of&nbsp;young people makes the&nbsp;town perhaps more vibrant and&nbsp;full than in&nbsp;summer, when many are on&nbsp;holiday elsewhere.</p> <h3>A Page of&nbsp;History</h3> <p>Located on&nbsp;the banks of&nbsp;the Emajogi River (Mother River), Tartu is Estonia's second-largest city and&nbsp;the Baltics' oldest, being first mentioned in&nbsp;historical documents dating back to&nbsp;1030. It is the&nbsp;cradle of&nbsp;Estonian culture, where the&nbsp;country's song festivals&nbsp;&mdash; an&nbsp;important tradition that played a&nbsp;major role in&nbsp;uniting the&nbsp;nation&nbsp;&mdash; were born. Tartu is also the&nbsp;home of&nbsp;Estonian theater and&nbsp;to some extent, the&nbsp;Estonian state.</p> <p>The&nbsp;main building of&nbsp;Tartu University, a&nbsp;six-columned, classical affair, is located on&nbsp;Жlikooli (University Street) in&nbsp;the town's center. Founded in&nbsp;1632 by&nbsp;Swedish king Gustavus Adolphus, it's the&nbsp;country oldest. Now one of&nbsp;the world's top 400 universities, it effectively connects the&nbsp;past and&nbsp;future, as well as Tartu and&nbsp;the rest of&nbsp;the world.</p> <p>Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Tartu's center, having historically been the&nbsp;main trading area of&nbsp;the settlement between the&nbsp;castle on&nbsp;Toome Hill and&nbsp;the riverside port on&nbsp;the Emajogi. The&nbsp;buildings in&nbsp;the center mostly date back to&nbsp;the 18th century, older constructions having been destroyed by&nbsp;the wars and&nbsp;fires that swept the&nbsp;town from&nbsp;time to&nbsp;time.</p> <p>Since 2008, Town Hall Square has been adorned by&nbsp;the Kissing Students fountain, which stands right in&nbsp;front of&nbsp;the Town Hall building and&nbsp;depicts the&nbsp;figures of&nbsp;a young man and&nbsp;woman embracing. Sculptor Mati Karmin was reportedly inspired by&nbsp;the sight of&nbsp;his nephew kissing a&nbsp;girl in&nbsp;the rain.</p> <p>Although it might not seem like the&nbsp;first choice for&nbsp;a new installation on&nbsp;the medieval town's main square, it has become a&nbsp;modern symbol of&nbsp;Tartu and&nbsp;one of&nbsp;its main attractions, judging by&nbsp;the groups of&nbsp;tourists having their photo taken in&nbsp;front of&nbsp;it at&nbsp;any time of&nbsp;the day.</p> <p>The&nbsp;Town Square, with its cafeterias and&nbsp;souvenir shops, has a&nbsp;Christmas tree and&nbsp;a large snow mound, which is popular among children who clamber up it and&nbsp;ride down it on&nbsp;boards or simply crawl over it.</p> <p>Toome Hill, located directly behind the&nbsp;Town Hall, is home to&nbsp;a number of&nbsp;monuments, including one to&nbsp;King Adolphus that was destroyed by&nbsp;the Soviets in&nbsp;1950 and&nbsp;restored after Estonia regained independence, the&nbsp;ruined red-brick Dome Cathedral dating back to&nbsp;the late 13th century and&nbsp;the university-related installations and&nbsp;museums such as the&nbsp;History Museum of&nbsp;Tartu University, the&nbsp;old Tartu Observatory and&nbsp;the Old Anatomical Theater.</p> <p>Back in&nbsp;town, an&nbsp;interesting piece of&nbsp;art is &quot;Father and&nbsp;Son,&quot; a&nbsp;sculpture group showing nude, same-sized models of&nbsp;its author, Tartu-born sculptor Ulo Ouna (1940-1988) and&nbsp;his 18-month-old son Kristjan. Located right on&nbsp;the sidewalk, just a&nbsp;brief walk from&nbsp;the Town Hall Square, the&nbsp;sculpture looks unlikely in&nbsp;the summertime, and&nbsp;completely surreal when seen amid snow in&nbsp;winter.</p> <p>Conceived in&nbsp;1977 and&nbsp;cast in&nbsp;bronze ten years later, the&nbsp;sculpture was installed on&nbsp;Tartu on&nbsp;Child Protection Day on&nbsp;June 1, 2004 on&nbsp;KЯЯni, the&nbsp;city's main shopping street.</p> <h3>New Old Manors</h3> <p>Estonia is a&nbsp;land rich in&nbsp;historic manor houses, about 100 of&nbsp;which have been renovated and&nbsp;converted to&nbsp;luxury hotels.</p> <p>According to&nbsp;the website www.mois.ee, devoted to&nbsp;Estonian manors, some of&nbsp;them date to&nbsp;the Middle Ages, but the&nbsp;mass construction of&nbsp;manor complexes began to&nbsp;a wide extent in&nbsp;the 1760s and&nbsp;lasted for&nbsp;more than a&nbsp;century and&nbsp;a half until World War I.</p> <p>In&nbsp;the early 20th century, there were 1,250 manors in&nbsp;Estonia, but by&nbsp;2005 this number had dropped to&nbsp;414. According to&nbsp;the Estonian Tourist Board, nowadays there are about 200 manor houses under state protection as architectural monuments and&nbsp;100 in&nbsp;active use.</p> <p>Estonian manors are where closeness to&nbsp;nature is combined with luxury appropriate to&nbsp;the aristocrats who once owned them. During the&nbsp;Soviet era many of&nbsp;the manors fell into&nbsp;disrepair or were used as schools or workers' hostels.</p> <p>Kau Manor is located some 40 minutes from&nbsp;Tallinn, 6 kilometers off the&nbsp;highway to&nbsp;Tartu. Located in&nbsp;the Koue parish and&nbsp;first mentioned in&nbsp;1241, it is one of&nbsp;the oldest Estonian manors, whose first known owner was a&nbsp;vassal of&nbsp;the Danish King Gerhardus de Kouwe (Gerhard from&nbsp;Kau). </p> <p><b>Related articles</b>:</p> <ul> <li><a href="http://www.themoscowtimes.com/beyond_moscow/kyzyl.html" >Kyzyl: Magic Energy at the Red Center of Asia</a> </li> <li><a href="http://www.themoscowtimes.com/beyond_moscow/ivanovo.html" >Ivanovo: Fashion Capital Ivanovo Ready for a Makeover</a> </li> <li><a href="http://www.themoscowtimes.com/beyond_moscow/murom.html" >Murom: Murom Still Lives in a Fairy Tale</a></li> </ul> </div> </div> <div class="article__bottom"> </div> <div class="hidden-md-up"> </div> <div class=""> <div class="newsletterbanner newsletterbanner--article mb-3" y-use="newsletter.Banner" data-newsletter="newsletter" data-url="https://www.themoscowtimes.com/newsletter" > <h4 class="newsletterbanner__title">Sign up for our free weekly newsletter</h4> <div class="newsletterbanner__teaser"> Our weekly newsletter contains a hand-picked selection of news, features, analysis and more from The Moscow Times. 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