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Hello, oysters and ‘pretty bloody good’ schnitty at this reborn Redfern boozer</h1><p data-testid="article-intro" class="sc-26cb810f-2 gzKVgq">A team of young operators has brought a new look and nostalgia-fuelled tricks to The Bat & Ball Hotel, with a menu that largely sticks to the pub-food script with a few creative tangents.</p><div class="sc-ce7643c8-0 kgBXst"><div data-testid="article-author" class="sc-ce7643c8-1 iuqjQY"><img alt="Callan Boys" data-testid="author-avatar-image" height="64" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/w_64%2Ch_64%2Cc_fill%2Cg_auto:faces/q_86%2Cf_auto/71526be8461941a73f29d99889667376fcf5e4f2" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/w_64%2Ch_64%2Cc_fill%2Cg_auto:faces/q_86%2Cf_auto/71526be8461941a73f29d99889667376fcf5e4f2, https://static.ffx.io/images/w_128%2Ch_128%2Cc_fill%2Cg_auto:faces/q_86%2Cf_auto/71526be8461941a73f29d99889667376fcf5e4f2 2x" width="64" class="sc-9a01536c-0 coyuDu"/><div><a href="/goodfood/by/callan-boys-hvf7i" class="sc-5253e565-11 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class="noPrint article" id="meter-prompt-piano-id"></div></header><aside class="sc-3f90e9fb-0 sc-a2c3c3f0-0 cbwPAY dqjzIo"><div class="sc-3f90e9fb-1 fVBmgf">Sydney hit list <a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF sc-3f90e9fb-2 hmqpmB" href="/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/your-december-hit-list-the-hot-new-and-just-reviewed-places-to-check-out-right-now-20241128-p5kuep.html">See all stories.</a></div></aside><div class="sc-ba3b934f-0 jwfccj"><div data-testid="beyondwords-accordion-content" class="sc-ba3b934f-2 cezePF"><div data-testid="beyondwords-player-container" class="sc-ba3b934f-6 kkWxpr"><div id="beyondwords-player"></div></div></div></div><div class="sc-22ce19e8-0 sc-c8f95e28-0 mDSEf jJmfVH"><div><div class="sc-89c7570e-0 bELkwr"><div class="sc-89c7570e-1 eBNHlN"><div data-testid="carousel-item-0" class="sc-89c7570e-2 fAHUwR"><figure class="sc-d6a3d919-0 jKFaKN"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/95c96b7372a6253d667312018bd29bd90eca8e15, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/95c96b7372a6253d667312018bd29bd90eca8e15 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/95c96b7372a6253d667312018bd29bd90eca8e15, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/95c96b7372a6253d667312018bd29bd90eca8e15 2x"/><img alt="“There’s Bob Dylan and Creedence on the playlist, and you can bring your dog. Sold.”" loading="eager" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/95c96b7372a6253d667312018bd29bd90eca8e15" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/95c96b7372a6253d667312018bd29bd90eca8e15, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/95c96b7372a6253d667312018bd29bd90eca8e15 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption data-testid="figure-caption" class="sc-d6a3d919-1 bAbCbP"><span class="sc-d6a3d919-3 duvvXX"><span class="sc-d6a3d919-2 dmjMuL">1 / 6</span><span>“There’s Bob Dylan and Creedence on the playlist, and you can bring your dog. Sold.”</span></span><span class="sc-d6a3d919-4 jeqIHn">Jennifer Soo</span></figcaption></figure></div><div data-testid="carousel-item-1" class="sc-89c7570e-2 fAHUwO"><figure class="sc-d6a3d919-0 jKFaKN"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02 2x"/><img alt="Go-to dish: Chicken schnitzel with mash and gravy ($27)." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption data-testid="figure-caption" class="sc-d6a3d919-1 bAbCbP"><span class="sc-d6a3d919-3 duvvXX"><span class="sc-d6a3d919-2 dmjMuL">2 / 6</span><span>Go-to dish: Chicken schnitzel with mash and gravy ($27).</span></span><span class="sc-d6a3d919-4 jeqIHn">Jennifer Soo</span></figcaption></figure></div><div data-testid="carousel-item-2" class="sc-89c7570e-2 fAHUwP"><figure class="sc-d6a3d919-0 jKFaKN"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068494%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068494%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068494%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068494%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6 2x"/><img alt="Dry-aged beef burger with lettuce, tomato and cheese." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068494%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068494%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068494%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption data-testid="figure-caption" class="sc-d6a3d919-1 bAbCbP"><span class="sc-d6a3d919-3 duvvXX"><span class="sc-d6a3d919-2 dmjMuL">3 / 6</span><span>Dry-aged beef burger with lettuce, tomato and cheese.</span></span><span class="sc-d6a3d919-4 jeqIHn">Jennifer Soo</span></figcaption></figure></div><div data-testid="carousel-item-3" class="sc-89c7570e-2 fAHUwU"><figure class="sc-d6a3d919-0 jKFaKN"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/c61e0b700d4a8ce9c7360213aefd5bdd367a3e5b, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/c61e0b700d4a8ce9c7360213aefd5bdd367a3e5b 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/c61e0b700d4a8ce9c7360213aefd5bdd367a3e5b, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/c61e0b700d4a8ce9c7360213aefd5bdd367a3e5b 2x"/><img alt="Fish and chips with silky peas and tartare. " loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/c61e0b700d4a8ce9c7360213aefd5bdd367a3e5b" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/c61e0b700d4a8ce9c7360213aefd5bdd367a3e5b, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/c61e0b700d4a8ce9c7360213aefd5bdd367a3e5b 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption data-testid="figure-caption" class="sc-d6a3d919-1 bAbCbP"><span class="sc-d6a3d919-3 duvvXX"><span class="sc-d6a3d919-2 dmjMuL">4 / 6</span><span>Fish and chips with silky peas and tartare. </span></span><span class="sc-d6a3d919-4 jeqIHn">Jennifer Soo</span></figcaption></figure></div><div data-testid="carousel-item-4" class="sc-89c7570e-2 fAHUwV"><figure class="sc-d6a3d919-0 jKFaKN"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/d0ce32a8d59b2e27afe1c53c0526829dbda8d434, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/d0ce32a8d59b2e27afe1c53c0526829dbda8d434 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/d0ce32a8d59b2e27afe1c53c0526829dbda8d434, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/d0ce32a8d59b2e27afe1c53c0526829dbda8d434 2x"/><img alt=" " loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/d0ce32a8d59b2e27afe1c53c0526829dbda8d434" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/d0ce32a8d59b2e27afe1c53c0526829dbda8d434, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1125%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/d0ce32a8d59b2e27afe1c53c0526829dbda8d434 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption data-testid="figure-caption" class="sc-d6a3d919-1 bAbCbP"><span class="sc-d6a3d919-3 duvvXX"><span class="sc-d6a3d919-2 dmjMuL">5 / 6</span><span> </span></span><span class="sc-d6a3d919-4 jeqIHn">Jennifer Soo</span></figcaption></figure></div><div data-testid="carousel-item-5" class="sc-89c7570e-2 fAHUwQ"><figure class="sc-d6a3d919-0 jKFaKN"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd 2x"/><img alt="Apple pie with custard." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption data-testid="figure-caption" class="sc-d6a3d919-1 bAbCbP"><span class="sc-d6a3d919-3 duvvXX"><span class="sc-d6a3d919-2 dmjMuL">6 / 6</span><span>Apple pie with custard.</span></span><span class="sc-d6a3d919-4 jeqIHn">Jennifer Soo</span></figcaption></figure></div></div><button class="sc-89c7570e-3 jPpCwW noPrint"><svg data-testid="arrow-left" fill="none" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" width="24" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><path d="M16 3L7 12L16 21" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="1.5"></path></svg><span>Previous Slide</span></button><button class="sc-89c7570e-3 sc-89c7570e-4 jPpCwW kiqAwn noPrint"><svg fill="none" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" width="24" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><path d="M8 3L17 12L8 21" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="1.5"></path></svg><span>Next Slide</span></button></div></div><div class="sc-ea3a932b-0 dojbUl"><p class="sc-ea3a932b-1 foiDyp">14/20<button type="button" class="sc-5253e565-3 sc-ea3a932b-4 jNzCFX kudIrW">How we score</button></p><p class="sc-8c23df43-0 a-dfwo"><span aria-label="Cuisine: Pub dining" class="sc-8c23df43-1 gwKsnB">Pub dining</span><span aria-label="Average cost for two people without drinks - $100 or less">$</span><span aria-hidden="true" class="sc-8c23df43-2 jMTvOQ">$$$</span></p></div><p>KB Lager kitsch. RSL chic. World Series Cricket retro. I’m not sure what we’re calling it, exactly, but next-generation operators decking out old pubs and bars with Australiana is one of the better hospitality trends of the past nine years.</p><p>Paddington’s Unicorn Hotel was a pioneer of the form, relaunched in 2015 and sporting cast iron cockatoos, native flora and beautiful white swans made from old black car tyres. It was also home to the greatest schnitzel NSW has ever known, featuring wing-attached chicken breast, butter-forward mash and fat-enhanced gravy. The Oxford Street boozer’s lease changed hands a couple of months ago, which was a bloody shame because great pub food is hard to find.</p><figure class="sc-912cb4fa-1 sc-7a14e833-0 DGdUj kuuqnY"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02 2x"/><img alt="Go-to dish: Chicken schnitzel with mash and gravy ($27)." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption class="sc-912cb4fa-0 hyRbIP" data-testid="figure-caption"><span>Go-to dish: Chicken schnitzel with mash and gravy ($27).</span><cite class="sc-912cb4fa-2 eIIQbH"><span class="sc-912cb4fa-3 bUTDfp">Jennifer Soo</span></cite></figcaption></figure></div><div class="container"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-0 fgyoRe adWrapper noPrint sc-1f54d5e0-3 fhBIyq" data-testid="ad"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-1 epCboS"></div><small class="sc-54c4a04e-2 hVAhMy">Advertisement</small></div></div><div class="sc-22ce19e8-0 sc-c8f95e28-0 mDSEf jJmfVH"><p>Pubs with great food, sure. Refurbished hotels from Newport to the Nepean know their way around a prawn spaghetti. But Australian pub food as a strict set of standards (schnitzel, battered seafood, a Sunday roast special) too often takes the form of cut-price produce cooked by chefs who aren’t paid enough to care. The job description might as well read, “Just defrost some chips, discount a parma, and get punters through the door to play Queen of the Nile”.</p><p>Redfern, at least, has The Bat & Ball. If you’ve ever walked to the Sydney Cricket Ground from Cleveland Street, you may have found yourself at the pub on the corner of South Dowling. You may also recall it didn’t have much going for it except for beer and a functioning roof. In August, however, the site reopened under the stewardship of Zac Godbolt, Dan McBride and Dynn Szmulewicz (co-owners of Enmore Country Club), chef Cameron Votano (BTB Kirribilli), and Rachael Paul, former venue manager of Redfern’s <a class="inline-link" href="/goodfood/eating-out/sunshine-inn--dds-brings-the-good-times-just-waiting-for-the-boogie-20201008-h1r9ab.html">The Sunshine Inn.</a> Goodbye, pokies; hello, post-footy DJs and oysters. There’s Bob Dylan and Creedence on the playlist, and you can bring your dog. Sold.</p><figure class="sc-912cb4fa-1 sc-7a14e833-0 DGdUj kuuqnY"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6 2x"/><img alt="Dry-aged beef burger with lettuce, tomato and cheese." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.11506849315068493%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption class="sc-912cb4fa-0 hyRbIP" data-testid="figure-caption"><span>Dry-aged beef burger with lettuce, tomato and cheese.</span><cite class="sc-912cb4fa-2 eIIQbH"><span class="sc-912cb4fa-3 bUTDfp">Jennifer Soo</span></cite></figcaption></figure><p>Like Enmore Country Club (and The Unicorn, and Marrickville’s <a class="inline-link" href="/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/lucky-prawn-review-20220505-h23k8k.html">Bob Hawke Beer & Leisure Centre</a>), the new-look Bat & Ball is inspired by the age of the winged keel, Mondo Rock and Rod Marsh. There are caramel tiles, a pool comp and vintage coasters, and framed souvenir tea-towels from Vanuatu and Gulgong. The neenish tart makes an appearance, albeit as a rich slice layered with chocolate ganache and plum jam ($15), rather than the two-toned pink and brown pastry found in the hot bread shop of every regional town.</p><p>Votano largely sticks to the pub-food script, with a few tangents here and there. Macadamia cream, for instance, is piled with blistered shishito peppers and a savoury mix of enoki and wood-ear mushrooms ($18). Not at all bad with toasted miche sourdough ($6) and a competitively priced negroni ($16). A ploughman’s lunch comes with prosciutto, pickles, cheddar and rockmelon salsa ($25), while a $22 serve of hot wings holds your interest thanks to fermented chilli (although you may be inclined to dial up the heat with an extra dash of Frank’s RedHot from the condiment station).</p></div><div class="container"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-0 fgyoRe adWrapper noPrint sc-1f54d5e0-3 fhBIyq" data-testid="ad"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-1 epCboS"></div><small class="sc-54c4a04e-2 hVAhMy">Advertisement</small></div></div><div class="sc-22ce19e8-0 sc-c8f95e28-0 mDSEf jJmfVH"><p>How’s the schnitzel? Pretty bloody good: $27 and crumbed with panko, oats and pulsed grains for extra crunch. The mash is appropriately thick and smooth; the chicken and beef stock gravy fortified with tomato paste and white pepper. I’m also into the $29 beer-battered market fish and chips, currently featuring skin-on fries, creme fraiche tartare and side bowl of “silky peas” (blitzed with reduced stock, cream and garlic, and finished with a drizzle of dill oil – terrific for dipping hunks of precision-battered bream or gurnard).</p><figure class="sc-912cb4fa-1 sc-7a14e833-0 DGdUj kuuqnY"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd 2x"/><img alt="Apple pie with custard." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1151%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption class="sc-912cb4fa-0 hyRbIP" data-testid="figure-caption"><span>Apple pie with custard.</span><cite class="sc-912cb4fa-2 eIIQbH"><span class="sc-912cb4fa-3 bUTDfp">Jennifer Soo</span></cite></figcaption></figure><p>Whole Beast Butchery supplies the dry-aged beef for a juicy, well-sealed burger ($25 with fries) stacked with lettuce, tomato and cheese. The medium-rare porterhouse probably isn’t topping anyone’s best steak-ever list, but it’s still a perfectly fine strip of meat for $32 with chips and salad. The only main I would think twice about ordering again is the pork chop ($29) covered in a rust-coloured sauce throbbing with capers, mustard dill pickles and butter. It’s bearable in small amounts, like radiation and Keith Urban, but there’s almost more sauce than pig. </p><p>Happy-hour beers are $7, though, and there’s a retail fridge where you can buy wine to take home, or open a bottle at the bar and pay $15 corkage. You won’t be asked to order through a QR code and your phone – you can speak to an actual person – and staff know how to make a respectable Old Fashioned ($22) to pair with deep-fried apple pie pooled in custard ($13). Is all this just nostalgia bait at the end of the day? Probably, yes, but I’ll take the hook. More pubs could do with a vintage tea towel display and neenish tart; less so, another pokie room and hormone-pumped parmigiana. </p><div data-testid="embed-callout" class="sc-915c5cc1-0 dQjdhD"><h3 class="sc-915c5cc1-1 fuHVBU">The low-down</h3><div class="sc-915c5cc1-2 dQpeGq"> <p class=""><strong>Vibe:</strong> Young operators bring new tricks and nostalgia to a neglected pub</p> <p class=""><strong>Go-to dish:</strong> Chicken schnitzel with mash and gravy ($27)</p> <p class=""><strong>Drinks:</strong> Smart line-up of Australian beer and wine, mostly from independent producers, plus a clipped list of house and classic cocktails</p> <p class=""><strong>Cost:</strong> About $80 for two, excluding drinks</p> </div></div><p><em>This review was originally published in </em><a class="inline-link" href=https://www.smh.com.au/good-weekend rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Good Weekend</a><em> magazine</em></p></div><div class="sc-1f54d5e0-4 hgglrk"><div class="noPrint article" id="eoa-meter-prompt-piano-id"></div></div><div class="noPrint article" id="hard-reg-wall-piano-id"></div><div class="sc-837024b8-0 eawiVN noPrint"><p class="sc-837024b8-1 ZniZp">Continue this series</p><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF sc-837024b8-3 dBlMpQ" href="/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/your-december-hit-list-the-hot-new-and-just-reviewed-places-to-check-out-right-now-20241128-p5kuep.html">Your December hit list: The hot, new and just-reviewed places to check out, right now</a><h5 class="sc-837024b8-6 epWlWC">Up next</h5><section class="sc-837024b8-4 sc-837024b8-5 QirlR jaFavd" data-testid="storyset-assetlist"><div class="sc-371e0ea3-1 krgCYq"><div class="sc-6f4f1d46-0 meaCN sc-371e0ea3-0 axGVz" data-an-position="1" data-testid="story-tile"><figure class="sc-8825a2fb-0 eSZWMI"><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF" href="/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/this-seafood-led-restaurant-puts-the-glamour-into-hotel-dining-20241029-p5kmcn.html?collection=p5kuep&gb=1" tabindex="-1"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.291%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/bb2abccd4a5c8727eca9955f247afcebf7dfd922, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.582%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/bb2abccd4a5c8727eca9955f247afcebf7dfd922 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.2421%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/bb2abccd4a5c8727eca9955f247afcebf7dfd922, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.4841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/bb2abccd4a5c8727eca9955f247afcebf7dfd922 2x"/><img alt="Tilda." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.7275%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/bb2abccd4a5c8727eca9955f247afcebf7dfd922" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.7275%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/bb2abccd4a5c8727eca9955f247afcebf7dfd922, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_1.455%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/bb2abccd4a5c8727eca9955f247afcebf7dfd922 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div></a></figure><div class="sc-6f4f1d46-1 dQpcCa"><h3 class="sc-6f4f1d46-2 gzyfwK"><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF" href="/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/this-seafood-led-restaurant-puts-the-glamour-into-hotel-dining-20241029-p5kmcn.html?collection=p5kuep&gb=1">This seafood-led restaurant puts the glamour (and a hat) into hotel dining</a></h3><p class="sc-6f4f1d46-3 iohLIm">Tilda brings hustle and bustle to a born-again hotel in Sydney’s CBD, with a grand seafood tower, market-priced lobster and mud crab.</p></div></div><div class="sc-6f4f1d46-0 meaCN sc-371e0ea3-0 axGVz" data-an-position="2" data-testid="story-tile"><figure class="sc-8825a2fb-0 eSZWMI"><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF" href="/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/missed-the-cwa-scones-at-the-easter-show-this-hidden-spot-serves-them-up-all-year-round-20241104-p5knt1.html?collection=p5kuep&gb=1" tabindex="-1"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09156976744186046%2C$multiply_0.291%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/e0b458d9ff90467aefbc52d05b146a6d5fa9246f, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09156976744186046%2C$multiply_0.582%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/e0b458d9ff90467aefbc52d05b146a6d5fa9246f 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09156976744186046%2C$multiply_0.2421%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/e0b458d9ff90467aefbc52d05b146a6d5fa9246f, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09156976744186046%2C$multiply_0.4841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/e0b458d9ff90467aefbc52d05b146a6d5fa9246f 2x"/><img alt="CWA Tea Rooms in Eastwood deliver sweet and simple pleasures." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09156976744186046%2C$multiply_0.7275%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/e0b458d9ff90467aefbc52d05b146a6d5fa9246f" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09156976744186046%2C$multiply_0.7275%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/e0b458d9ff90467aefbc52d05b146a6d5fa9246f, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09156976744186046%2C$multiply_1.455%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/e0b458d9ff90467aefbc52d05b146a6d5fa9246f 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div></a></figure><div class="sc-6f4f1d46-1 dQpcCa"><h3 class="sc-6f4f1d46-2 gzyfwK"><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF" href="/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/missed-the-cwa-scones-at-the-easter-show-this-hidden-spot-serves-them-up-all-year-round-20241104-p5knt1.html?collection=p5kuep&gb=1">Missed the CWA scones at the Easter Show? This hidden spot serves them up all year round</a></h3><p class="sc-6f4f1d46-3 iohLIm">The CWA Tea Rooms offer sweet and simple pleasures such as raisin toast, a glass of milk or cordial and those famous scones, all for just a few dollars.</p></div></div></div></section><h5 class="sc-837024b8-6 epWlWC">Previous</h5><section class="sc-837024b8-4 QirlR" data-testid="storyset-assetlist"><div class="sc-371e0ea3-1 krgCYq"><div class="sc-6f4f1d46-0 meaCN sc-371e0ea3-0 axGVz" data-an-position="1" data-testid="story-tile"><figure class="sc-8825a2fb-0 eSZWMI"><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF" href="/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/sandy-s-at-urbnsurf-delivers-beachside-vibes-and-good-times-20241104-p5knr4.html?collection=p5kuep&gb=1" tabindex="-1"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.13610586011342155%2C$multiply_0.291%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/fd82ba83d5572d12c18bdc806015b30accb85c1d, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.13610586011342155%2C$multiply_0.582%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/fd82ba83d5572d12c18bdc806015b30accb85c1d 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.13610586011342155%2C$multiply_0.2421%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/fd82ba83d5572d12c18bdc806015b30accb85c1d, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.13610586011342155%2C$multiply_0.4841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/fd82ba83d5572d12c18bdc806015b30accb85c1d 2x"/><img alt=" " loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.13610586011342155%2C$multiply_0.7275%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/fd82ba83d5572d12c18bdc806015b30accb85c1d" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.13610586011342155%2C$multiply_0.7275%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/fd82ba83d5572d12c18bdc806015b30accb85c1d, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.13610586011342155%2C$multiply_1.455%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/fd82ba83d5572d12c18bdc806015b30accb85c1d 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div></a></figure><div class="sc-6f4f1d46-1 dQpcCa"><h3 class="sc-6f4f1d46-2 gzyfwK"><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF" href="/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/sandy-s-at-urbnsurf-delivers-beachside-vibes-and-good-times-20241104-p5knr4.html?collection=p5kuep&gb=1">Too far from the beach? This cafe delivers surfy vibes 20km from the ocean</a></h3><p class="sc-6f4f1d46-3 iohLIm">Sandy’s cafe at an inland surf park feels like the real seaside deal.</p></div></div></div></section><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF sc-837024b8-7 fVpYhp" href="/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/your-december-hit-list-the-hot-new-and-just-reviewed-places-to-check-out-right-now-20241128-p5kuep.html">See all stories<svg fill="none" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" width="24" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="sc-837024b8-8 kPfojG"><path d="M8 3L17 12L8 21" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="1.5"></path></svg></a></div><div class="sc-5572f931-0 jGgTyy noPrint"><p class="sc-5572f931-1 hepXIe">Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.</p><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF sc-5253e565-0 sc-5253e565-6 sc-5572f931-2 clhnVQ dXpZhL hjRJuz" href="https://login.myfairfax.com.au/signup_newsletter/10073?channel_key=zHE9EWDHf1XPuz3Phk0YIg&callback_uri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.smh.com.au" 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I’m not sure what we’re calling it, exactly, but next-generation operators decking out old pubs and bars with Australiana is one of the better hospitality trends of the past nine years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EPaddington’s Unicorn Hotel was a pioneer of the form, relaunched in 2015 and sporting cast iron cockatoos, native flora and beautiful white swans made from old black car tyres. It was also home to the greatest schnitzel NSW has ever known, featuring wing-attached chicken breast, butter-forward mash and fat-enhanced gravy. The Oxford Street boozer’s lease changed hands a couple of months ago, which was a bloody shame because great pub food is hard to find.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"IMAGE","image":{"crop":{"zoom":0.1151,"width":756,"offsetX":0,"offsetY":0},"type":"LANDSCAPE_3_2","credit":"Jennifer Soo","source":"Fairfax Media","caption":"Go-to dish: Chicken schnitzel with mash and gravy ($27).","mediaId":"3994b21c211857b6b0afc010be6162a0e6247a02","animated":false,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg"}},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EPubs with great food, sure. Refurbished hotels from Newport to the Nepean know their way around a prawn spaghetti. But Australian pub food as a strict set of standards (schnitzel, battered seafood, a Sunday roast special) too often takes the form of cut-price produce cooked by chefs who aren’t paid enough to care. The job description might as well read, “Just defrost some chips, discount a parma, and get punters through the door to play Queen of the Nile”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003ERedfern, at least, has The Bat & Ball. If you’ve ever walked to the Sydney Cricket Ground from Cleveland Street, you may have found yourself at the pub on the corner of South Dowling. You may also recall it didn’t have much going for it except for beer and a functioning roof. In August, however, the site reopened under the stewardship of Zac Godbolt, Dan McBride and Dynn Szmulewicz (co-owners of Enmore Country Club), chef Cameron Votano (BTB Kirribilli), and Rachael Paul, former venue manager of Redfern’s \u003Cx-placeholder id=\"d9e99101677cb82056bfb7b7d392c153b98ffd36\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E Goodbye, pokies; hello, post-footy DJs and oysters. There’s Bob Dylan and Creedence on the playlist, and you can bring your dog. Sold.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","placeholders":[{"key":"d9e99101677cb82056bfb7b7d392c153b98ffd36","text":"The Sunshine Inn.","type":"LINK_ASSET","assetId":"h1r9ab"}]},{"type":"IMAGE","image":{"crop":{"zoom":0.11506849315068493,"width":756,"offsetX":0,"offsetY":0},"type":"LANDSCAPE_3_2","credit":"Jennifer Soo","source":"Fairfax Media","caption":"Dry-aged beef burger with lettuce, tomato and cheese.","mediaId":"75c06fa4d61de8c6469e137c1b44c39c4b0256b6","animated":false,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg"}},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003ELike Enmore Country Club (and The Unicorn, and Marrickville’s \u003Cx-placeholder id=\"95c5970f91cd4c114e185094c4aec9bff4aa7d7f\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E), the new-look Bat & Ball is inspired by the age of the winged keel, Mondo Rock and Rod Marsh. There are caramel tiles, a pool comp and vintage coasters, and framed souvenir tea-towels from Vanuatu and Gulgong. The neenish tart makes an appearance, albeit as a rich slice layered with chocolate ganache and plum jam ($15), rather than the two-toned pink and brown pastry found in the hot bread shop of every regional town.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","placeholders":[{"key":"95c5970f91cd4c114e185094c4aec9bff4aa7d7f","text":"Bob Hawke Beer & Leisure Centre","type":"LINK_ASSET","assetId":"h23k8k"}]},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EVotano largely sticks to the pub-food script, with a few tangents here and there. Macadamia cream, for instance, is piled with blistered shishito peppers and a savoury mix of enoki and wood-ear mushrooms ($18). Not at all bad with toasted miche sourdough ($6) and a competitively priced negroni ($16). A ploughman’s lunch comes with prosciutto, pickles, cheddar and rockmelon salsa ($25), while a $22 serve of hot wings holds your interest thanks to fermented chilli (although you may be inclined to dial up the heat with an extra dash of Frank’s RedHot from the condiment station).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EHow’s the schnitzel? Pretty bloody good: $27 and crumbed with panko, oats and pulsed grains for extra crunch. The mash is appropriately thick and smooth; the chicken and beef stock gravy fortified with tomato paste and white pepper. I’m also into the $29 beer-battered market fish and chips, currently featuring skin-on fries, creme fraiche tartare and side bowl of “silky peas” (blitzed with reduced stock, cream and garlic, and finished with a drizzle of dill oil – terrific for dipping hunks of precision-battered bream or gurnard).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"IMAGE","image":{"crop":{"zoom":0.1151,"width":756,"offsetX":0,"offsetY":0},"type":"LANDSCAPE_3_2","credit":"Jennifer Soo","source":"Fairfax Media","caption":"Apple pie with custard.","mediaId":"105d410e4cd2adaff7d0bee543b9b60bbb4cdebd","animated":false,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg"}},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EWhole Beast Butchery supplies the dry-aged beef for a juicy, well-sealed burger ($25 with fries) stacked with lettuce, tomato and cheese. The medium-rare porterhouse probably isn’t topping anyone’s best steak-ever list, but it’s still a perfectly fine strip of meat for $32 with chips and salad. The only main I would think twice about ordering again is the pork chop ($29) covered in a rust-coloured sauce throbbing with capers, mustard dill pickles and butter. It’s bearable in small amounts, like radiation and Keith Urban, but there’s almost more sauce than pig. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003EHappy-hour beers are $7, though, and there’s a retail fridge where you can buy wine to take home, or open a bottle at the bar and pay $15 corkage. You won’t be asked to order through a QR code and your phone – you can speak to an actual person – and staff know how to make a respectable Old Fashioned ($22) to pair with deep-fried apple pie pooled in custard ($13). Is all this just nostalgia bait at the end of the day? Probably, yes, but I’ll take the hook. More pubs could do with a vintage tea towel display and neenish tart; less so, another pokie room and hormone-pumped parmigiana. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},{"type":"CALLOUT","title":"The low-down","markup":"\n\u003Cp class=\"\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EVibe:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E Young operators bring new tricks and nostalgia to a neglected pub\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\u003Cp class=\"\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGo-to dish:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E Chicken schnitzel with mash and gravy ($27)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\u003Cp class=\"\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EDrinks:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E Smart line-up of Australian beer and wine, mostly from independent producers, plus a clipped list of house and classic cocktails\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\u003Cp class=\"\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECost:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E About $80 for two, excluding drinks\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n"},{"type":"MARKUP","markup":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThis review was originally published in \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cx-placeholder id=\"66d23ad3906ce943fd401d2ae21d10ec582e2039\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E\u003Cem\u003E magazine\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","placeholders":[{"key":"66d23ad3906ce943fd401d2ae21d10ec582e2039","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.smh.com.au\u002Fgood-weekend","text":"Good Weekend","type":"LINK_EXTERNAL"}]}]},"byline":[{"__typename":"AssetBylineAuthor","type":"AUTHOR","author":{"__ref":"Author:QXV0aG9yOiJodmY3aSI="}}],"category":{"__ref":"Category:Q2F0ZWdvcnk6IjUwIg=="},"commenting":null,"dates":{"__typename":"AssetDates","firstPublished":"2024-10-31T18:00:00Z","published":"2024-10-31T18:00:00Z"},"extensions":{"ratings":[{"outOf":20,"score":14}],"priceLevel":0,"cuisineName":"Pub dining"},"headlines":{"__typename":"AssetHeadlines","headline":"Goodbye, pokies. 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