{"title":"Wave Vortex Parameters as an Indicator of Breaking Intensity","authors":"B. Robertson, K. Hall","volume":73,"journal":"International Journal of Physical and Mathematical Sciences","pagesStart":47,"pagesEnd":55,"ISSN":"1307-6892","URL":"https:\/\/publications.waset.org\/pdf\/6937","abstract":"<p>The study of the geometric shape of the plunging wave enclosed vortices as a possible indicator for the breaking intensity of ocean waves has been ongoing for almost 50 years with limited success. This paper investigates the validity of using the vortex ratio and vortex angle as methods of predicting breaking intensity. Previously published works on vortex parameters, based on regular wave flume results or solitary wave theory, present contradictory results and conclusions. Through the first complete analysis of field collected irregular wave breaking vortex parameters it is illustrated that the vortex ratio and vortex angle cannot be accurately predicted using standard breaking wave characteristics and hence are not suggested as a possible indicator for breaking intensity.<\/p>\r\n","references":"[1]\tIribarren, C.R. and C. Nogales, Protection des Ports. 17th International Navigation Congress, 1949. 2: p. 31 - 80.\r\n[2]\tMead, S.T., Black, K., Predicting the Breaking Intensity of Swfing Waves. Special Issue of the Journal of Coastal Research on Surfing., 2001: p. 103 -130.\r\n[3]\tScarfe, B.E., et al., The Science of Surfing Waves and Surfing Breaks - Review. Scripps Institution of Oceanography Technicial Report, 2003: p. 1 - 12.\r\n[4]\tSmith, E.R. and N.C. Kraus, Laboratory Study of Wave Breaking over Bars and Artificial Reefs. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 1991. 117(4): p. 307 - 325.\r\n[5]\tBlenkinsopp, C.E. and J.R. Chaplin, The Effect of Relative Crest Submergence on Wave Breaking over Submerged Slopes. Coastal Engineering, 2008. 55: p. 967-974.\r\n[6]\tGrilli, S.T., I.A. Svendsen, and R. Subramanya, Breaking Criterion and Characteristics for Solitary Waves on Slopes. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 1997. 123(3): p. 102 -112. \r\n[7]\tLonguet - Higgins, M.S., Parametric Solutions for Breaking Waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 1982. 121: p. 403 - 424.\r\n[8]\tMiller, R.L., Role of Vortices in Surf Zone Prediction, Sedimentation and Wave Forces. Beach and Nearshore Sedimentation (ed. R.A. Davis & R.L. Ethington), 1957: p. 92 - 114.\r\n[9] New, A.L., A Class of Elliptical Free-Surface Flows. Journal of Fluid\r\nMechanics, 1983. 130: p. 219 - 239.\r\n[10] Millar, R.L., The Role of Surface Tension in Breaking Waves. Coastal\r\nEngineering, 1972. 13: p. 433 - 449.\r\n[11] Shand, T.D., Bailey, D.G., Shand, R.D., Automated Detection of\r\nBreaking Wave Height Using an Optical Technique. Journal of Coastal\r\nResearch, 2012.\r\n[12] Gal, Y., Browne, M., Lane, C., Automatic Estimation of Nearshore\r\nWave Height from Video Timestacks. 2011 International Conference on\r\nDigital Image Computing, 2011: p. 364 - 369.\r\n[13] Almar, R., Cienfuegos, R., Catalan, P., Michallet, H., Castelle, B.,\r\nBonneton, P., Marieu, V. , A New Breaking Wave Height Direct\r\nEstimator from Video Imagery. Coastal Engineering, 2012. 61: p. 42-48.\r\n[14] Walker, J.R., Recreational Surf Parameters. LOOK Laboratory TR-30,\r\nUniversity of Hawaii, Department of Ocean Engineering, Honolulu,\r\nHawaii., 1974.\r\n[15] Fairley, I. and M.A. Davidson, A Two-Dimensional Wave Flume\r\nInvestigation into the Effect of Multiple Steps on the Form of Breaking\r\nWaves. Journal of Coastal Research, 2008. 24(1): p. 51 - 58.\r\n[16] Johnson, C.M., The Effect of Artificial Reef Configerations on Wave\r\nBreaking Intensity Relating to Recreational Surfing Conditions. MSc\r\nThesis, Civil Engineering, University of Stellenbosch, 2009: p. 1 - 137.\r\n[17] de Vries, S., de Schipper, M.A., Hill, D.F., Stive, M.J.F., Remote\r\nSensing of Surf Zone Waves Using Stereo Imaging. Coastal Engineering,\r\n2010: p. 1 - 12.\r\n[18] Ritchie, A.C., Finlayson, D.P., Logan, J.B. Swath bathymetry surveys of\r\nthe Monterey Bay area from Point A\u00f1o Nuevo to Moss Landing, San\r\nMateo, Santa Cruz, and Monterey Counties, California. U.S. Geological\r\nSurvey 2010; Data Series 514]. Available from:\r\nhttp:\/\/pubs.usgs.gov\/ds\/514\/.\r\n[19] Flick, R.E., Guza, R.T., Inman, D.L., Elevation and Velocity\r\nMeasurements of Laboratory Shoaling Waves. Journal of Geophysical\r\nResearch, 1981. 86: p. 4149 - 4160.\r\n[20] Le Mehaute, B., Divoky, D., Lin, A., Shallow Water Waves: A\r\nComparision of Theories and Experiments. Proceedings 11th\r\nConference of Coastal Engineering, 1968. 1.\r\n[21] Lin, P., Philip, L,. Liu, F., A numerical study of breaking waves in the\r\nsurf zone. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 1998. 259(239 - 264).\r\n[22] Couriel, S., P. Horton, and D. Cox, Supplementary 2D Physical\r\nModelling of Breaking Wave Characteristics. Technicial Report, Water\r\nResearch Laboratory, 1998. TR98-14.\r\n[23] CERC-EW, Coastal Engineering Manual. 2008. EM-1110-2-1100.\r\n[24] Goda, Y., Reanalysis of Regular and Random Breaking Wave Statistics.\r\nCoastal Engineering Journal, 2010. 52(1): p. 71 - 106.\r\n[25] Rattanapitikon, W., T. Vivattanasirak, and T. Shibayama, A Proposal of\r\nNew Breaker Height Formula. Coastal Engineering Journal, 2003. 45(1):\r\np. 29 - 48.\r\n[26] Weggel, R., Maximum Breaker Height for Design. Proceedings of the\r\nInternational Conference on Coastal Engineering, 1972: p. 419 - 432.\r\n[27] Rasband, W.S., ImageJ. 1997 - 2012, U.S. National Institutes of Health:\r\nBethesda, Maryland, USA.\r\n[28] Dumouchel, W., O'Brien, F., Intergrating a robust option into a multiple\r\nregression computing environment. Institute for Mathematics and Its\r\nApplications, 1991. 36: p. 41.\r\n[29] Blenkinsopp, C.E., The Effect of Micro-Scale Bathymetric Steps on\r\nWave Breaking and Implications for Artificial Surfing Reef\r\nConstruction. Proceedings of the 3rd International Surfing Reef\r\nSymposium, Raglan, New Zealand, 2003: p. 139 - 155.\r\n[30] Vinje, T. and P. Brevig, Numerical Simulation of Breaking Waves Finite\r\nElements in Water Resources, 1980. 2: p. 196 - 210.","publisher":"World Academy of Science, Engineering and Technology","index":"Open Science Index 73, 2013"}