CINXE.COM

<!doctype html> <html lang="en" class="no-js b-pw-1280 b-reith-sans-font b-reith-serif-font b-reith-serif-loaded b-reith-sans-loaded"> <head><script type="text/javascript" src="/_static/js/bundle-playback.js?v=HxkREWBo" charset="utf-8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="/_static/js/wombat.js?v=txqj7nKC" charset="utf-8"></script> <script>window.RufflePlayer=window.RufflePlayer||{};window.RufflePlayer.config={"autoplay":"on","unmuteOverlay":"hidden"};</script> <script type="text/javascript" src="/_static/js/ruffle/ruffle.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> __wm.init("https://web.archive.org/web"); __wm.wombat("https://www.bbc.com/travel/","20220710005241","https://web.archive.org/","web","/_static/", "1657414361"); </script> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/_static/css/banner-styles.css?v=S1zqJCYt" /> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/_static/css/iconochive.css?v=3PDvdIFv" />  <meta data-rh="true" http-equiv="X-UA-Compatible" content="IE=edge"/><meta data-rh="true" charset="utf-8"/><meta data-rh="true" name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"/><meta data-rh="true" name="keywords" content="INDEX"/><meta data-rh="true" name="description" content="The latest stories from BBC Travel on travel topics from all over the globe: culture, identity, food, history, heritage, archaeology, nature, sustainability, adventure, experiences, destinations and other themes that celebrate the people and places that make the world diverse and amazing."/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:title" content="Home"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:type" content="website"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:url" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:image" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:image:width" content="624"/><meta data-rh="true" property="og:image:height" content="351"/><meta data-rh="true" property="fb:pages" content="147105585468223"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:card" content="summary_large_image"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:site" content="@bbc_travel"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:title" content="Home"/><meta data-rh="true" name="twitter:image" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png"/> <title data-rh="true">Home - BBC Travel</title> <link data-rh="true" rel="canonical" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel"/><link data-rh="true" rel="apple-touch-icon" sizes="180x180" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/travel/apple-touch-icon.png"/><link data-rh="true" rel="icon" type="image/png" sizes="32x32" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/travel/favicon-32x32.png"/><link data-rh="true" rel="icon" type="image/png" sizes="16x16" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/travel/favicon-16x16.png"/><link data-rh="true" rel="shortcut icon" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/travel/favicon.ico"/><link data-rh="true" rel="mask-icon" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/travel/safari-pinned-tab.svg" color="#063d90"/><link data-rh="true" rel="manifest" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/worklife/assets/travel/site.webmanifest"/> <script> window.orb_fig_blocking = true; </script> <script type="text/javascript"> /* IE11 polyfills */ if (!('values' in Object)) { Object.prototype.constructor.values = function(o) { if (typeof o !== 'object') return console.error('not an object') return Object.keys(o).map(function(k) { return o[k] }) } } if (!('find' in Array.prototype)) { Array.prototype.find = function(fn) { for (let i = 0; i < this.length; i += 1) { if (fn.call(this, this[i], i)) return this[i]; } return undefined; } } if (!('includes' in Array.prototype)) { Array.prototype.includes = function(search) { return this.indexOf(search) > -1 } } </script> <script>document.documentElement.className = document.documentElement.className.replace('no-js', '');</script>    <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0"> <style> :root { --bbc-font: ReithSans, Arial, Helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; --bbc-font-legacy: Arial, Helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; } </style> <script nomodule type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c112a8f36cf65a87b0355cbdb46acf5a/js/polyfills.js"></script> <link rel="stylesheet" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241cs_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c112a8f36cf65a87b0355cbdb46acf5a/css/orbit-v5-ltr.min.css"> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c112a8f36cf65a87b0355cbdb46acf5a/js/require.min.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> window.orbitData = {}; var additionalPageProperties = {}; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_5'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_1'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_3'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_9'] = '1' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_10'] = '' || null; additionalPageProperties['custom_var_6'] = '' || null; window.orbitData.userProfileUrl = "https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/userprofile"; window.page = { name: 'travel.page' || null, destination: 'FEATURE_SITES_GNL' || null, producer: 'GNL_TRAVEL' || null, section: '' || null, site: '' || null, contentId: '' || null, contentType: 'index-home' || null, edition: '' || null, additionalProperties: additionalPageProperties }; window.page.language = 'en'; window.page.language = 'en'; window.page.modal = false; </script> <script type="text/javascript">!function(){var t={930:function(t,e,r){function n(t,e){var r=Object.keys(t);if(Object.getOwnPropertySymbols){var n=Object.getOwnPropertySymbols(t);e&&(n=n.filter((function(e){return Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(t,e).enumerable}))),r.push.apply(r,n)}return r}function o(t){for(var e=1;e<arguments.length;e++){var r=null!=arguments[e]?arguments[e]:{};e%2?n(Object(r),!0).forEach((function(e){i(t,e,r[e])})):Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors?Object.defineProperties(t,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors(r)):n(Object(r)).forEach((function(e){Object.defineProperty(t,e,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(r,e))}))}return t}function i(t,e,r){return e in t?Object.defineProperty(t,e,{value:r,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):t[e]=r,t}var c=r(382),u=r(19);window.bbcpage=c.init(o({},window.page)),window.page=void 0,window.bbcuser=u.init(window,o({},window.user)),window.user=void 0},382:function(t){function e(t,e){var r=Object.keys(t);if(Object.getOwnPropertySymbols){var n=Object.getOwnPropertySymbols(t);e&&(n=n.filter((function(e){return Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(t,e).enumerable}))),r.push.apply(r,n)}return r}function r(t){for(var r=1;r<arguments.length;r++){var o=null!=arguments[r]?arguments[r]:{};r%2?e(Object(o),!0).forEach((function(e){n(t,e,o[e])})):Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors?Object.defineProperties(t,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors(o)):e(Object(o)).forEach((function(e){Object.defineProperty(t,e,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(o,e))}))}return t}function n(t,e,r){return e in t?Object.defineProperty(t,e,{value:r,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):t[e]=r,t}t.exports={init:function(t){var e=r({},t);return document.addEventListener("bbc-page-reset",(function(t){var r;t.detail&&t.detail.page&&(r=t.detail.page,e=Object.assign(e,r)),document.dispatchEvent(new Event("bbc-page-updated"))})),{getName:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.name||function(){if("file:"===window.location.protocol)return"local.file";var t=window.location.pathname.replace(/\/$/,"").replace(/^\//,"").replace(/\//g,".");return"".concat(t,".page")}())},getLanguage:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.language)},getDestination:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.destination)},getProducer:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.producer)},getSection:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.section)},getContentType:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.contentType)},getContentId:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.contentId)},getReferrer:function(){return Promise.resolve(window.orb&&null!==window.orb.referrer&&void 0!==window.orb.referrer?window.orb.referrer:document.referrer)},getAdditionalProperties:function(){return Promise.resolve(r({},e.additionalProperties))},loadCSS:function(t){return new Promise((function(e,r){var n=document.createElement("link");n.type="text/css",n.rel="stylesheet",n.onload=function(){e()},n.href=t,document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0].appendChild(n)}))},isModal:function(){return Promise.resolve(e.modal)}}}}},19:function(t,e,r){function n(t){return n="function"==typeof Symbol&&"symbol"==typeof Symbol.iterator?function(t){return typeof t}:function(t){return t&&"function"==typeof Symbol&&t.constructor===Symbol&&t!==Symbol.prototype?"symbol":typeof t},n(t)}function o(t,e){var r=Object.keys(t);if(Object.getOwnPropertySymbols){var n=Object.getOwnPropertySymbols(t);e&&(n=n.filter((function(e){return Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(t,e).enumerable}))),r.push.apply(r,n)}return r}function i(t){for(var e=1;e<arguments.length;e++){var r=null!=arguments[e]?arguments[e]:{};e%2?o(Object(r),!0).forEach((function(e){c(t,e,r[e])})):Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors?Object.defineProperties(t,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptors(r)):o(Object(r)).forEach((function(e){Object.defineProperty(t,e,Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(r,e))}))}return t}function c(t,e,r){return e in t?Object.defineProperty(t,e,{value:r,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):t[e]=r,t}function u(t,e){for(var r=0;r<e.length;r++){var n=e[r];n.enumerable=n.enumerable||!1,n.configurable=!0,"value"in n&&(n.writable=!0),Object.defineProperty(t,n.key,n)}}function a(t,e){if(!(t instanceof e))throw new TypeError("Cannot call a class as a function")}function f(t,e){if(e&&("object"===n(e)||"function"==typeof e))return e;if(void 0!==e)throw new TypeError("Derived constructors may only return object or undefined");return function(t){if(void 0===t)throw new ReferenceError("this hasn't been initialised - super() hasn't been called");return t}(t)}function s(t){var e="function"==typeof Map?new Map:void 0;return s=function(t){if(null===t||(r=t,-1===Function.toString.call(r).indexOf("[native code]")))return t;var r;if("function"!=typeof t)throw new TypeError("Super expression must either be null or a function");if(void 0!==e){if(e.has(t))return e.get(t);e.set(t,n)}function n(){return l(t,arguments,d(this).constructor)}return n.prototype=Object.create(t.prototype,{constructor:{value:n,enumerable:!1,writable:!0,configurable:!0}}),h(n,t)},s(t)}function l(t,e,r){return l=p()?Reflect.construct.bind():function(t,e,r){var n=[null];n.push.apply(n,e);var o=new(Function.bind.apply(t,n));return r&&h(o,r.prototype),o},l.apply(null,arguments)}function p(){if("undefined"==typeof Reflect||!Reflect.construct)return!1;if(Reflect.construct.sham)return!1;if("function"==typeof Proxy)return!0;try{return Boolean.prototype.valueOf.call(Reflect.construct(Boolean,[],(function(){}))),!0}catch(t){return!1}}function h(t,e){return h=Object.setPrototypeOf?Object.setPrototypeOf.bind():function(t,e){return t.__proto__=e,t},h(t,e)}function d(t){return d=Object.setPrototypeOf?Object.getPrototypeOf.bind():function(t){return t.__proto__||Object.getPrototypeOf(t)},d(t)}var y=r(890).loadModule,v=function(t){!function(t,e){if("function"!=typeof e&&null!==e)throw new TypeError("Super expression must either be null or a function");t.prototype=Object.create(e&&e.prototype,{constructor:{value:t,writable:!0,configurable:!0}}),Object.defineProperty(t,"prototype",{writable:!1}),e&&h(t,e)}(s,t);var e,r,n,o,i,c=(e=s,r=p(),function(){var t,n=d(e);if(r){var o=d(this).constructor;t=Reflect.construct(n,arguments,o)}else t=n.apply(this,arguments);return f(this,t)});function s(){return a(this,s),c.apply(this,arguments)}return n=s,o&&u(n.prototype,o),i&&u(n,i),Object.defineProperty(n,"prototype",{writable:!1}),n}(s(Error));t.exports={init:function(t,e){var r,n=i({},e),o=null;function c(){if(["X-Country","X-Ip_is_advertise_combined","X-Ip_is_uk_combined"].every((function(t){return!!n[t]})))return Promise.resolve(n);if(!o){var e=t.location.hostname.endsWith(".com")?"com":"co.uk";o=t.fetch("https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.".concat(e,"/userinfo")).then((function(t){return t.json()}))}return o}function u(t){if(t.status>=200&&t.status<300)return t;var e=new Error(t.statusText);throw e.response=t,e}function a(t){return t.json()}function f(){if(n.ageBand)return Promise.resolve(n);if(!r){if("undefined"==typeof XMLHttpRequest||!("withCredentials"in new XMLHttpRequest))return Promise.resolve(n);r=y(["idcta-v2/idcta-1"]).then((function(e){return e.initiateTokenRefresh().then((function(){return t.fetch(t.orbitData.userProfileUrl,{credentials:"include"}).then(u).then(a).then((function(t){return n=i(i({},n),t)}))}))}))}return r}var s={getHashedId:function(){return y(["idcta-v2/idcta-1"]).then((function(t){return t.getCookieInstance().getHidFromCookie()}))},isSignedIn:function(){return y(["idcta-v2/idcta-1"]).then((function(t){return t&&t.getCookieInstance().hasCookie()}))},getCountry:function(){return c().then((function(t){return t["X-Country"]||"gb"}))},isUKCombined:function(){return c().then((function(t){if(!t["X-Ip_is_uk_combined"])throw new v("missing isUKCombined from userinfo response");return"yes"===t["X-Ip_is_uk_combined"].toLowerCase()}))},canSeeAdverts:function(){return c().then((function(t){if(!t["X-Ip_is_advertise_combined"])throw new v("missing canSeeAdverts from userinfo response");return"yes"===t["X-Ip_is_advertise_combined"].toLowerCase()}))},getAgeBand:function(){return c().then((function(t){return t["X-Age-Band"]?Promise.resolve(t["X-Age-Band"]):s.isSignedIn().then((function(t){if(t)return f().then((function(t){return n["X-Age-Band"]=t["X-Age-Band"],n["X-Age-Band"]||void 0})).catch((function(){return n["X-Age-Band"]||void 0}))}))}))},allowsPerformanceCookies:function(){return y(["orb/cookies"]).then((function(t){return!!t.cookiesEnabled()&&!!t.readPolicy("performance")}))},allowsFunctionalCookies:function(){return y(["orb/cookies"]).then((function(t){return!!t.cookiesEnabled()&&!!t.readPolicy("personalisation")}))},getCookieValue:function(t){return y(["orb/cookies"]).then((function(e){return e.get(t)}))}};return s},BBCUserError:v}},890:function(t){t.exports={loadModule:function(t){return new Promise((function(e,r){window.require(t,(function(){e.apply(this,arguments)}),(function(t){r(t)}))}))}}},666:function(t){var e=function(t){"use strict";var e,r=Object.prototype,n=r.hasOwnProperty,o="function"==typeof Symbol?Symbol:{},i=o.iterator||"@@iterator",c=o.asyncIterator||"@@asyncIterator",u=o.toStringTag||"@@toStringTag";function a(t,e,r){return Object.defineProperty(t,e,{value:r,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}),t[e]}try{a({},"")}catch(t){a=function(t,e,r){return t[e]=r}}function f(t,e,r,n){var o=e&&e.prototype instanceof v?e:v,i=Object.create(o.prototype),c=new k(n||[]);return i._invoke=function(t,e,r){var n=l;return function(o,i){if(n===h)throw new Error("Generator is already running");if(n===d){if("throw"===o)throw i;return C()}for(r.method=o,r.arg=i;;){var c=r.delegate;if(c){var u=_(c,r);if(u){if(u===y)continue;return u}}if("next"===r.method)r.sent=r._sent=r.arg;else if("throw"===r.method){if(n===l)throw n=d,r.arg;r.dispatchException(r.arg)}else"return"===r.method&&r.abrupt("return",r.arg);n=h;var a=s(t,e,r);if("normal"===a.type){if(n=r.done?d:p,a.arg===y)continue;return{value:a.arg,done:r.done}}"throw"===a.type&&(n=d,r.method="throw",r.arg=a.arg)}}}(t,r,c),i}function s(t,e,r){try{return{type:"normal",arg:t.call(e,r)}}catch(t){return{type:"throw",arg:t}}}t.wrap=f;var l="suspendedStart",p="suspendedYield",h="executing",d="completed",y={};function v(){}function b(){}function g(){}var w={};a(w,i,(function(){return this}));var m=Object.getPrototypeOf,O=m&&m(m(S([])));O&&O!==r&&n.call(O,i)&&(w=O);var P=g.prototype=v.prototype=Object.create(w);function j(t){["next","throw","return"].forEach((function(e){a(t,e,(function(t){return this._invoke(e,t)}))}))}function E(t,e){function r(o,i,c,u){var a=s(t[o],t,i);if("throw"!==a.type){var f=a.arg,l=f.value;return l&&"object"==typeof l&&n.call(l,"__await")?e.resolve(l.__await).then((function(t){r("next",t,c,u)}),(function(t){r("throw",t,c,u)})):e.resolve(l).then((function(t){f.value=t,c(f)}),(function(t){return r("throw",t,c,u)}))}u(a.arg)}var o;this._invoke=function(t,n){function i(){return new e((function(e,o){r(t,n,e,o)}))}return o=o?o.then(i,i):i()}}function _(t,r){var n=t.iterator[r.method];if(n===e){if(r.delegate=null,"throw"===r.method){if(t.iterator.return&&(r.method="return",r.arg=e,_(t,r),"throw"===r.method))return y;r.method="throw",r.arg=new TypeError("The iterator does not provide a 'throw' method")}return y}var o=s(n,t.iterator,r.arg);if("throw"===o.type)return r.method="throw",r.arg=o.arg,r.delegate=null,y;var i=o.arg;return i?i.done?(r[t.resultName]=i.value,r.next=t.nextLoc,"return"!==r.method&&(r.method="next",r.arg=e),r.delegate=null,y):i:(r.method="throw",r.arg=new TypeError("iterator result is not an object"),r.delegate=null,y)}function x(t){var e={tryLoc:t[0]};1 in t&&(e.catchLoc=t[1]),2 in t&&(e.finallyLoc=t[2],e.afterLoc=t[3]),this.tryEntries.push(e)}function L(t){var e=t.completion||{};e.type="normal",delete e.arg,t.completion=e}function k(t){this.tryEntries=[{tryLoc:"root"}],t.forEach(x,this),this.reset(!0)}function S(t){if(t){var r=t[i];if(r)return r.call(t);if("function"==typeof t.next)return t;if(!isNaN(t.length)){var o=-1,c=function r(){for(;++o<t.length;)if(n.call(t,o))return r.value=t[o],r.done=!1,r;return r.value=e,r.done=!0,r};return c.next=c}}return{next:C}}function C(){return{value:e,done:!0}}return b.prototype=g,a(P,"constructor",g),a(g,"constructor",b),b.displayName=a(g,u,"GeneratorFunction"),t.isGeneratorFunction=function(t){var e="function"==typeof t&&t.constructor;return!!e&&(e===b||"GeneratorFunction"===(e.displayName||e.name))},t.mark=function(t){return Object.setPrototypeOf?Object.setPrototypeOf(t,g):(t.__proto__=g,a(t,u,"GeneratorFunction")),t.prototype=Object.create(P),t},t.awrap=function(t){return{__await:t}},j(E.prototype),a(E.prototype,c,(function(){return this})),t.AsyncIterator=E,t.async=function(e,r,n,o,i){void 0===i&&(i=Promise);var c=new E(f(e,r,n,o),i);return t.isGeneratorFunction(r)?c:c.next().then((function(t){return t.done?t.value:c.next()}))},j(P),a(P,u,"Generator"),a(P,i,(function(){return this})),a(P,"toString",(function(){return"[object Generator]"})),t.keys=function(t){var e=[];for(var r in t)e.push(r);return e.reverse(),function r(){for(;e.length;){var n=e.pop();if(n in t)return r.value=n,r.done=!1,r}return r.done=!0,r}},t.values=S,k.prototype={constructor:k,reset:function(t){if(this.prev=0,this.next=0,this.sent=this._sent=e,this.done=!1,this.delegate=null,this.method="next",this.arg=e,this.tryEntries.forEach(L),!t)for(var r in this)"t"===r.charAt(0)&&n.call(this,r)&&!isNaN(+r.slice(1))&&(this[r]=e)},stop:function(){this.done=!0;var t=this.tryEntries[0].completion;if("throw"===t.type)throw t.arg;return this.rval},dispatchException:function(t){if(this.done)throw t;var r=this;function o(n,o){return u.type="throw",u.arg=t,r.next=n,o&&(r.method="next",r.arg=e),!!o}for(var i=this.tryEntries.length-1;i>=0;--i){var c=this.tryEntries[i],u=c.completion;if("root"===c.tryLoc)return o("end");if(c.tryLoc<=this.prev){var a=n.call(c,"catchLoc"),f=n.call(c,"finallyLoc");if(a&&f){if(this.prev<c.catchLoc)return o(c.catchLoc,!0);if(this.prev<c.finallyLoc)return o(c.finallyLoc)}else if(a){if(this.prev<c.catchLoc)return o(c.catchLoc,!0)}else{if(!f)throw new Error("try statement without catch or finally");if(this.prev<c.finallyLoc)return o(c.finallyLoc)}}}},abrupt:function(t,e){for(var r=this.tryEntries.length-1;r>=0;--r){var o=this.tryEntries[r];if(o.tryLoc<=this.prev&&n.call(o,"finallyLoc")&&this.prev<o.finallyLoc){var i=o;break}}i&&("break"===t||"continue"===t)&&i.tryLoc<=e&&e<=i.finallyLoc&&(i=null);var c=i?i.completion:{};return c.type=t,c.arg=e,i?(this.method="next",this.next=i.finallyLoc,y):this.complete(c)},complete:function(t,e){if("throw"===t.type)throw t.arg;return"break"===t.type||"continue"===t.type?this.next=t.arg:"return"===t.type?(this.rval=this.arg=t.arg,this.method="return",this.next="end"):"normal"===t.type&&e&&(this.next=e),y},finish:function(t){for(var e=this.tryEntries.length-1;e>=0;--e){var r=this.tryEntries[e];if(r.finallyLoc===t)return this.complete(r.completion,r.afterLoc),L(r),y}},catch:function(t){for(var e=this.tryEntries.length-1;e>=0;--e){var r=this.tryEntries[e];if(r.tryLoc===t){var n=r.completion;if("throw"===n.type){var o=n.arg;L(r)}return o}}throw new Error("illegal catch attempt")},delegateYield:function(t,r,n){return this.delegate={iterator:S(t),resultName:r,nextLoc:n},"next"===this.method&&(this.arg=e),y}},t}(t.exports);try{regeneratorRuntime=e}catch(t){"object"==typeof globalThis?globalThis.regeneratorRuntime=e:Function("r","regeneratorRuntime = r")(e)}}},e={};function r(n){var o=e[n];if(void 0!==o)return o.exports;var i=e[n]={exports:{}};return t[n](i,i.exports,r),i.exports}r(666);r(930)}();</script> <script type="module"> window.importmap = {"orbit-drawer":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c112a8f36cf65a87b0355cbdb46acf5a/js/drawer.mjs","bbccookies":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/6f7a92d4fabe448fb9b4b2169f055909/cookie-banner/cookie-library.module.js"}; var o={738:function(o){o.exports={loadModule:function(o){return new Promise(((n,t)=>{window.require(o,(function(){n.apply(this,arguments)}),(o=>{t(o)}))}))}}},61:function(o,n,t){const{loadModule:r}=t(738);o.exports=function(o){return function(n){return"string"==typeof n&&o[n]?import(o[n]):r(n)}}}},n={};function t(r){var i=n[r];if(void 0!==i)return i.exports;var e=n[r]={exports:{}};return o[r](e,e.exports,t),e.exports}!function(){const o=t(61);window.shimport=o({...window.importmap}),window.importMap=void 0}();</script> <script type="text/javascript"> window.page = undefined; window.user = undefined; </script> <link rel="preload" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/fonts/reith/2.512/BBCReithSans_W_Rg.woff2" as="font" type="font/woff2" crossorigin> <link rel="preload" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/fonts/reith/2.512/BBCReithSans_W_Bd.woff2" as="font" type="font/woff2" crossorigin>          <link rel="stylesheet" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241cs_/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/5862eada893d4b99aa2cfb8f76c11796/css/box.css"> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/6f7a92d4fabe448fb9b4b2169f055909/cookie-banner/cookie-library.bundle.js"></script><script type="text/javascript">void 0!==window.define&&define("orb/cookies",function(){return window.bbccookies})</script> <script type="text/javascript">window.__detectview={clickManagementEnabled:false};</script> <script type="text/javascript">"use strict";!function(){window.__reverbStaticLocation="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://mybbc-analytics.files.bbci.co.uk/reverb-client-js/",window.__smarttagVersion="5.29.1",window.__reverb={},window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise=new Promise(function(e,i){window.__reverb.__resolveReverbLoaded=e,window.__reverb.__rejectReverbLoaded=i}),window.__reverb.__reverbTimeout=setTimeout(function(){window.__reverb.__rejectReverbLoaded()},5e3);var i=function(d,a){window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise.then(function(e){if(d&&d.detail){var i=!!d.detail.item,n=d.detail.label,t=i?"viewability":d.detail.type,o=d.detail.elem,r=d.detail.originalEvent;d.detail.isClick&&(a=d.detail.isClick),e.userActionEvent(t,n,d.detail,o,r,a)}},function(){console.log("Reverb failed to load. Event not sent")})},n=function(){window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise.then(function(e){e.initialise().then(function(){return e.viewEvent()})},function(){console.log("Reverb failed to load. Event not sent")})};document.addEventListener("bbc-user-event",function(e){i(e,!1)}),document.addEventListener("bbc-user-click",function(e){i(e,!0)}),document.addEventListener("bbc-page-updated",n),window.addEventListener("pageshow",function(e){e.persisted&&n()})}();</script><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241js_/https://mybbc-analytics.files.bbci.co.uk/reverb-client-js/reverb-3.5.0.js" async></script> <script type="text/javascript">const adsDebug=/[?|&]ads-debug/.test(window.location.href),dotcomFlag=/[?|&]ngas/.test(window.location.href),isWwhp=/.bbc.com/.test(window.location.hostname)&&"/"===window.location.pathname||"/wwhp"===window.location.pathname,rx=new RegExp(".bbc.com/sport"),isSport=rx.test(window.location.href),newsIndexRX=new RegExp(".bbc.com/news/[a-zA-Z]"),isNewsIndex=newsIndexRX.test(window.location.href),bbcdotcomDebug=/[?|&]bbcdotcom/.test(window.location.href);var dotcomNgasEl,head,bbcdotcomConfig,bbcdotcomForgeAsync,googletag,bbcdotcom;!bbcdotcomDebug&&(dotcomFlag||isWwhp||isSport||isNewsIndex)?(window.dotcom=window.dotcom||{cmd:[]},window.dotcomConfig=window.dotcomConfig||{},window.dotcom.ads=window.dotcom.ads||{},window.dotcom.ads.resolves={enabled:[],getAdTag:[]},window.dotcom.ads.enabled=function(){return new Promise(function(o){window.dotcom.ads.resolves.enabled.push(o)})},window.dotcom.ads.getAdTag=function(){return new Promise(function(o){window.dotcom.ads.resolves.getAdTag.push(o)})},require({paths:{bbcdotcom:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220706-090633-cab354f7b-4.78.2/script"}}),dotcomNgasEl=document.createElement("script"),head=document.head||document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0],window.dotcomConfig.bbcdotcom=!0,window.bbcdotcom={adverts:{},reset:function(){},setAdUnit:function(){},stickyAdvert:function(){return{add:function(){}}}},window.bbcdotcomConfig={},window.bbcdotcom.cmd={push:function(o){window.dotcom.cmd.push(o)}},bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues={unset:function(){}},bbcdotcom.av={emp:{adverts:""}},bbcdotcom.init=function(o){if(0===window.location.pathname.indexOf("/sport")||0===window.location.pathname.indexOf("/storyworks")){if(o.adsToDisplay)for(var t=0;t<o.adsToDisplay.length;t++){var n=o.adsToDisplay[t];window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.ads.registerSlot(n)})}if(o.keyValues)for(var t in o.keyValues)window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.ads.setTargeting(t,o.keyValues[t])})}},bbcdotcom.resetPage=function(o){window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.locationChange(o)})},bbcdotcom.setAdUnit=function(o){window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.ads.setAdUnit(o)})},bbcdotcom.slotAsync=function(o,t){window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.ads.registerSlot(o,{},"",t)})},bbcdotcom.registerAd=function(o,t,n){let c,e;"string"==typeof o?c=o:([c]=Object.keys(o),e=o[c].advertText||"",t=o[c].groups||t||""),window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.ads.registerSlot(c,n,e,t)})},bbcdotcom.pubsub={on:function(o,t){window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.pubsub.on(o,t)})},off:function(o,t){window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.pubsub.off(o,t)})}},bbcdotcom.setConfig=function(o){window.adsDebug&&adsDebug&&console.log("bbcdotcom setConfig",o)},bbcdotcom.config={isAdsEnabled:function(){return!0},isAnalyticsEnabled:function(){return!0},isAvailable:function(){return new Promise(function(o){o(!0)})},isActive:function(){return!0}},bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue=function(o,t){window.dotcom.cmd.push(function(){window.dotcom.ads.setTargeting(o,t)})},bbcdotcom.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!0}}},dotcomNgasEl.type="text/javascript",dotcomNgasEl.async=!0,dotcomNgasEl.src=/ads-test=true/.test(window.location.search)?"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/ngas/latest/test/dotcom-bootstrap.js":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/ngas/latest/dotcom-bootstrap.js",dotcomNgasEl.onload=function(){var o=document.getElementById("bbccom_interstitial");o&&(o.setAttribute("id","dotcom-interstitial"),o.setAttribute("class","dotcom-ad"),bbcdotcom.slotAsync("interstitial"))},head.appendChild(dotcomNgasEl),window.dotcomEnabled=!0):(bbcdotcomConfig={},bbcdotcomForgeAsync=!0,(googletag=window.googletag||{}).cmd=window.googletag.cmd||[],bbcdotcomScripts=[],tp=window.tp||[],_comscore=window._comscore||[],(bbcdotcom={test:/test/.test(window.location.hostname),adverts:{keyValues:{},breakpoints:{}},advert:{write:function(){},show:function(){},isActive:function(){return!1},layout:function(){return{reset:function(){}}}},config:{init:function(){},isAvailable:function(){return new Promise(function(o){bbcdotcom.resolves?bbcdotcom.resolves.isAvailable.push(o):o(!1)})},isAdsEnabledAsync:function(){return new Promise(function(o){bbcdotcom.resolves?bbcdotcom.resolves.adsEnabled.push(o):o(!1)})},isAnalyticsEnabledAsync:function(){return new Promise(function(o){bbcdotcom.resolves?bbcdotcom.resolves.analyticsEnabled.push(o):o(!1)})},setSections:function(){},setAdsEnabled:function(){},setAnalyticsEnabled:function(){},setAssetPrefix:function(){},setFlagpoles:function(){},setVersion:function(){},setJsPrefix:function(){},setSwfPrefix:function(){},setCssPrefix:function(){},setConfig:function(){},getAssetPrefix:function(){},getJsPrefix:function(){},getSwfPrefix:function(){},getCssPrefix:function(){},isOptimizelyEnabled:function(){},isThirdPartyDisabled:function(){},isThirdPartyDisabledEU:function(){},setEU:function(){}},survey:{init:function(){return!1}},data:{},init:function(){},objects:function(o){return!1},locale:{set:function(){},get:function(){}},setAdKeyValue:function(){},utils:{addEvent:function(){},addHtmlTagClass:function(){},log:function(){}},addLoadEvent:function(){},resolves:{isAvailable:[],adsEnabled:[],analyticsEnabled:[]},resolvePromises:function(){if(bbcdotcom.resolves){for(var o=0;o<bbcdotcom.resolves.isAvailable.length;o++)bbcdotcom.resolves.isAvailable[o](!1);delete bbcdotcom.resolves}},flag:{a:!1,s:!1},asyncCmd:[],isSportApp:function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0!==o&&-1!==o.indexOf(".app")&&0===o.indexOf("/sport")},init:function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.init(o)})},slotAsync:function(o,t,n,c){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.slotAsync(o,t,n,c)})}}).adverts.slotAsync=function(o,t,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.slotAsync(o,t,n)})},bbcdotcom.config.isAdsEnabled=function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0===o||0!==o.indexOf("/sport")||-1===o.indexOf(".app")},bbcdotcom.config.isActive=function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0===o||0!==o.indexOf("/sport")||-1===o.indexOf(".app")},bbcdotcom.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!0},bbcdotcom.registerAd=function(o,t,n){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.registerAd(o,t,n)})},bbcdotcom.setAdUnit=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.setAdUnit(o)})},bbcdotcom.adverts.adUnit={},bbcdotcom.adverts.adUnit.setUid=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.adUnit.setUid(o)})},bbcdotcom.setConfig=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.setConfig(o)})},bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue=function(o,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue(o,t)})},bbcdotcom.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!0}}},bbcdotcom.disableAndCloseOpenAds=function(){bbcdotcom.asyncDisableAndCloseOpenAds=!0},bbcdotcom.setAdKeyValue=function(o,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.set(o,t)})},bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.set=function(o,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.set(o,t)})},bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.unset=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.keyValues.unset(o)})},bbcdotcom.pubsub={},bbcdotcom.pubsub.on=function(o,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.pubsub.on(o,t)})},bbcdotcom.pubsub.off=function(o,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.pubsub.off(o,t)})},bbcdotcom.analytics={},bbcdotcom.analytics.page=function(o){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.analytics.page(o)})},bbcdotcom.av={emp:{adverts:""}},bbcdotcom.config.isContinuousPlayPage=function(){return!1},bbcdotcom.config.isSportApp=function(){var o=window.location.pathname;return void 0!==o&&-1!==o.indexOf(".app")&&0===o.indexOf("/sport")},bbcdotcom.adverts.breakpoints.setGroupStart=function(o,t){bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.push(function(){bbcdotcom.adverts.breakpoints.setGroupStart(o,t)})},"undefined"!=typeof require&&require({paths:{bbcdotcom:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220706-090633-cab354f7b-4.78.2/script"}}),window.bbcdotcom&&bbcdotcom.isSportApp&&!bbcdotcom.isSportApp()&&window.bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function(o){return o&&!adsDebug?(adsDebug&&console.log("UK location, not ads debug mode, don't load flags, don't load ads."),(o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},void o.resolvePromises()):void window.bbcuser.canSeeAdverts().then(function(o){if(!o&&!adsDebug)return adsDebug&&console.log("canSeeAdverts false, not ads debug mode, don't load ads."),(t=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},t.config.isActive=function(){return!1},t.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},t.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},void t.resolvePromises();var t=/test/.test(window.location.hostname)?"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-flagpoles.test.api.bbci.co.uk/gnlops":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-flagpoles.api.bbci.co.uk/gnlops",e=new XMLHttpRequest;e.open("GET",t),e.onload=function(){var t,o,n=JSON.parse(e.responseText),c=window.bbcdotcom||{};c.flag.a="true"===n.adverts?1:0,c.flag.s="true"===n.analytics?1:0,c.flag.a||c.flag.s?(o=/test/.test(window.location.hostname)?"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-flagpoles.test.api.bbci.co.uk/bbcdotcom":"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-flagpoles.api.bbci.co.uk/bbcdotcom",(t=new XMLHttpRequest).open("GET",o),t.onload=function(){var c=JSON.parse(t.responseText),e=window.bbcdotcom||{};[{tp:"thirdPartyEEA"},{d:"adsense"},{asa:"adsportapp"},{l:"lotame"},{p:"platinum"},{g:"grapeshot"},{sh:"sherlock"},{pe:"permutive"},{si:"signin"},{sis:"signinSport"},{sin:"signinNews"},{siw:"signinWWHP"},{piano:"piano"},{fundingchoices_cmp:"fundingchoices_cmp"},{storyworks_cmp:"storyworks_cmp"},{content_rec:"content_rec"},{ias_publisher:"ias_publisher"},{fpd:"fpd"},{sticky_leader_news:"sticky_leader_news"},{sticky_leader_sport:"sticky_leader_sport"}].forEach(function(o,t){for(var n in o)e.flag[n]="true"===c[o[n]]?1:0}),e.data={ads:e.flag.a,stats:e.flag.s,statsProvider:"",country:""},function(){const o=document.createElement("link");o.href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220706-090633-cab354f7b-4.78.2/style/bbcdotcom-async.css",o.rel="stylesheet",o.type="text/css",document.head.appendChild(o)}();var o=document.createElement("script"),n=document.head||document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0];o.type="text/javascript",o.async=!0,o.src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220706-090633-cab354f7b-4.78.2/script/bbcdotcom.js",o.onload=function(){window.bbcuser.getCountry().then(function(o){e.data.country=o,e.assetPrefix="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220706-090633-cab354f7b-4.78.2/",bbcdotcomConfig={assetPrefix:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220706-090633-cab354f7b-4.78.2/",staticVersion:"20220706-090633-cab354f7b-4.78.2",staticPrefix:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/bbcdotcom/assets/20220706-090633-cab354f7b-4.78.2/"},e.config.init(bbcdotcomConfig,e.data,window.location,window.document),e.config.setAssetPrefix(bbcdotcomConfig.assetPrefix),e.config.setVersion(bbcdotcomConfig.staticVersion),e.config.setFlagpoles(e.flag);o=!!o&&-1!==["AT","BE","BG","HR","CY","CZ","DK","EE","FI","FR","DE","GR","HU","IE","IT","LV","LT","LU","MT","NL","PL","PT","RO","SK","SI","ES","SE","IS","LI","NO","CH"].indexOf(o.toUpperCase());e.config.setEU(o);var t,o=function(o){var t=document.createElement("link"),n=document.head||document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0];t.href=o,t.rel="dns-prefetch",n.appendChild(t)};e.flag.s&&o("//web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://secure-us.imrworldwide.com/"),e.flag.a&&(o("//web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.googletagservices.com/"),o("//web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://bbc.gscontxt.net/"),(t=document.createElement("meta")).setAttribute("name","google-site-verification"),t.setAttribute("content","auTeTTwSt_KBY_4iDoR00Lwb7-qzx1IgzJy6ztaWgEI"),n.appendChild(t)),e.flag.a&&(e.config.isGrapeshotEnabled()&&!e.config.isWorldService()&&(t=window.location.href.split("?")[0],bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://bbc.gscontxt.net/?url="+encodeURIComponent(t)})),bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://securepubads.g.doubleclick.net/tag/js/gpt.js"}),e.config.isIASEnabled()&&(window.__iasPET=window.__iasPET||{},window.__iasPET.queue=window.__iasPET.queue||[],window.__iasPET.pubId="9708",bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://cdn.adsafeprotected.com/iasPET.1.js"}))),(e.flag.s||e.flag.a)&&(e.config.isPermutiveEnabled()&&!e.config.isWorldService()&&(function(n){if(!n){n=n||{},(window.permutive=n).q=[],n.config={consentRequired:!0},n.config.projectId="e488cdb0-e7cb-4d91-9648-60d437d8e491",n.config.apiKey="1bb84885-9325-4fef-adda-a208032b2715",n.config.environment=n.config.environment||"production";for(var o=["addon","identify","track","trigger","query","segment","segments","ready","on","once","user","consent"],t=0;t<o.length;t++){var c=o[t];n[c]=function(t){return function(){var o=Array.prototype.slice.call(arguments,0);n.q.push({functionName:t,arguments:o})}}(c)}}}((document,window.permutive)),bbcdotcomScripts.push({src:"https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://cdn.permutive.com/e488cdb0-e7cb-4d91-9648-60d437d8e491-web.js"})),bbcdotcomScripts.forEach(function(o){var t=document.createElement("script");t.async=!1,o.id&&(t.id=o.id),t.src=o.src,n.appendChild(t)}),window.bbcdotcom.config.isCmpEnabled()?(window.googlefc=window.googlefc||{},window.googlefc.callbackQueue=window.googlefc.callbackQueue||[],new Promise(function(n){window.googlefc.callbackQueue.push({CONSENT_DATA_READY:function(){window.__tcfapi("getTCData",2,function(o,t){t&&o.gdprApplies&&(window.bbcdotcom.consent={},window.bbcdotcom.gdprApplies=!0,window.bbcdotcom.consent.comscore=o.vendor.consents[77],window.bbcdotcom.consent.permutive=o.vendor.consents[360]&&o.vendor.consents[361],window.bbcdotcom.consent.googleads=o.vendor.consents[755],window.bbcdotcom.consent.nielsen=o.vendor.consents[373]&&o.vendor.consents[812],n(!0)),n(!0)},[77,164,360,361,373,755,812])}})}).then(function(){for(window.bbcdotcom.consentChecked=!0,window.bbcdotcom.asyncDisableAndCloseOpenAds&&window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.unshift(function(){window.bbcdotcom.disableAndCloseOpenAds()});window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd&&0<window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.length;)window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.shift()()}),function(){const o=document.createElement("script");o.type="text/javascript",o.async=!0,o.src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://gn-web-assets.api.bbc.com/ngas/vendor/fundingchoices/cmp.js",document.head.appendChild(o)}()):function(){for(;window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd&&0<window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.length;)window.bbcdotcom.asyncCmd.shift()()}()),window.adsDebug&&adsDebug&&console.log("bbcdotcom up and running...")})},n.appendChild(o)},t.onerror=function(){var o;(o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},o.resolvePromises()},t.send()):((o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},o.resolvePromises())},e.onerror=function(){var o;(o=window.bbcdotcom||{}).config.isAdsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.config.isActive=function(){return!1},o.config.isAnalyticsEnabled=function(){return!1},o.getFeature=function(){return{isEnabled:function(){return!1}}},o.resolvePromises()},e.send()})}));</script> <script type="text/javascript">"use strict";function asyncGeneratorStep(e,t,n,r,o,a,i){try{var s=e[a](i),c=s.value}catch(e){return void n(e)}s.done?t(c):Promise.resolve(c).then(r,o)}function _asyncToGenerator(s){return function(){var e=this,i=arguments;return new Promise(function(t,n){var r=s.apply(e,i);function o(e){asyncGeneratorStep(r,t,n,o,a,"next",e)}function a(e){asyncGeneratorStep(r,t,n,o,a,"throw",e)}o(void 0)})}}var wrapMethod=function(e,t){return e[t]&&"function"==typeof e[t]?e[t]():Promise.resolve(null)},getPageVariables=function(){return window&&window.bbcpage?Promise.all(["getDestination","getSection"].map(function(e){return wrapMethod(window.bbcpage,e)})).then(function(e){var t=JSON.parse(JSON.stringify(e));return{destination:t[0],section:t[1]}}):Promise.resolve(void 0)},getUserVariables=function(){return window&&window.bbcuser?Promise.all(["isSignedIn","getHashedId"].map(function(e){return wrapMethod(window.bbcuser,e)})).then(function(e){var t=JSON.parse(JSON.stringify(e));return{isSignedIn:t[0],hashedId:t[1]}}):Promise.resolve(void 0)},dotMetricsTag=function(e,t){var n=document.createElement("script");return n.src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://uk-script.dotmetrics.net/door.js?d=".concat(t,"&t=").concat(e),n.async=!0,n.id="dotmetrics",document.body.appendChild(n),function(){document.body.removeChild(n)}},isAccountPage=function(e,t){return!!e.includes("account.bbc")||!!t&&("account"===t.toLowerCase()||"account_test"===t.toLowerCase())},parseSiteSectionName=function(e){var t=e.destination,n=e.section,r=document?document.location.host.replace(/:.*/,""):"bbc.no.host";if(t){var o="";return n&&["NEWS_PS","NEWS_PS_TEST","SOUNDS","SOUNDS_TEST","SPORT_PS","SPORT_PS_TEST","IPLAYER","IPLAYER_TEST"].includes(t.toUpperCase())&&(o=n.split("::")[0]),{siteSectionNameString:"".concat(t).concat(o).toLowerCase().replace(/_/g,""),host:r}}return{siteSectionNameString:"other",host:r}};function startUkom(){return _startUkom.apply(this,arguments)}function _startUkom(){return(_startUkom=_asyncToGenerator(regeneratorRuntime.mark(function e(){var t,n,r;return regeneratorRuntime.wrap(function(e){for(;;)switch(e.prev=e.next){case 0:return e.next=2,getUserVariables();case 2:if((t=e.sent)&&t.isSignedIn&&null==t.hashedId)return e.abrupt("return");e.next=5;break;case 5:return e.next=7,getPageVariables();case 7:if(n=e.sent,isAccountPage(document.location.host,n.destination))return e.abrupt("return");e.next=10;break;case 10:r=parseSiteSectionName(n),dotMetricsTag(r.siteSectionNameString,r.host);case 12:case"end":return e.stop()}},e)}))).apply(this,arguments)}document.addEventListener("bbc-page-updated",function(){startUkom()}),window.addEventListener("pageshow",function(e){e.persisted&&startUkom()}),document.addEventListener("DOMContentLoaded",function(){startUkom()});</script> <link rel="stylesheet" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241cs_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/583/style/id-cta.css"><script type="text/javascript">(function () {if (!window.require) {throw new Error('idcta: could not find require module');}if (typeof (map) == 'undefined') {var map = {};}if (!!document.createElementNS && !!document.createElementNS('http://www.w3.org/2000/svg', 'svg').createSVGRect) {document.documentElement.className += ' id-svg';}var ptrt = new RegExp("[\\?&]ptrt=([^&]*)").exec(document.location.href);var ENDPOINT_URL = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://idcta.api.bbc.co.uk';var ENDPOINT_CONFIG = ('/idcta/config?callback=&ptrt=' + (ptrt ? ptrt[1] : encodeURIComponent(document.location.href))).replace(/\&/g, '&');var ENDPOINT_TRANSLATIONS = '/idcta/translations?callback=';function hasPromise() {var P = window.Promise;var promiseToString = null;if (P) {try {promiseToString = Object.prototype.toString.call(P.resolve());} catch (e) {/*silently ignored*/}}return (promiseToString === '[object Promise]' && !P.cast);}if (hasPromise()) {define('idcta/es6-promise', function () {return window.Promise;});define('idcta-v2/es6-promise', function () {return window.Promise;});}map['idcta-v2'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/583/modules/idcta-v2';map['idcta-v2/config'] = ENDPOINT_URL + ENDPOINT_CONFIG;map['idcta-v2/translations'] = ENDPOINT_URL + ENDPOINT_TRANSLATIONS;map['idcta'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/1.8.2/modules/idcta';map['idcta-v2/idcta-1'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/account/id-cta/583/modules/idcta-v2/dist/idcta-1.min';map['idcta-v2/experiment-snippet'] = 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://cdn.optimizely.com/public/4621041136/s/idcta_live';const idctaShim = {deps: ['idcta-v2/idcta-1'],};require({shim: {'idcta-v2/statusbar': idctaShim,'idcta-v2/id-config': idctaShim},map: {'*': {'idcta/idcta-1': 'idcta-v2/idcta-1','idcta': 'idcta-v2',}},paths: map});window.idctaBaseUrl = ENDPOINT_URL;define('idcta/config', ['idcta-v2/config'], function (data) { return data; });define('idcta/translations', ['idcta-v2/translations'], function (data) { return data; });})();</script> <style>@font-face{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/static/media/curious-sans-bold.b389ec59.eot),url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/static/media/curious-sans-bold.ba46d70f.ttf) format("truetype")}@font-face{font-family:'gelicons-core';font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/static/media/gelicons-core.cc52df12.eot),url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/static/media/gelicons-core.5435c223.ttf) format("truetype")}@font-face{font-family:'gelicons-media';font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/static/media/gelicons-media.41063609.eot),url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/static/media/gelicons-media.28e9b877.ttf) format("truetype")}@font-face{font-family:'gelicons-social';font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/static/media/gelicons-social.523533c6.eot),url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/static/media/gelicons-social.407b297d.ttf) format("truetype")}.gelicon{font-family:'gelicons-core'}.gelicon,.gelicon::before{-moz-osx-font-smoothing:grayscale;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;font-style:normal !important;font-weight:normal !important;speak:none;text-decoration:none !important}.gelicon--leading::before{margin-right:8px}.gelicon--trailing::before{margin-left:8px}.gelicon--social{font-family:'gelicons-social' !important}.gelicon--core{font-family:'gelicons-core' !important}.gelicon--iplayer,.gelicon--iplayer-radio,.gelicon--previous,.gelicon--up,.gelicon--down,.gelicon--next,.gelicon--tobottom,.gelicon--totop,.gelicon--zoomin,.gelicon--zoomout,.gelicon--search,.gelicon--print,.gelicon--print-invert,.gelicon--yes,.gelicon--no,.gelicon--add,.gelicon--help,.gelicon--info,.gelicon--alert,.gelicon--expires,.gelicon--duration,.gelicon--alarm,.gelicon--countdown,.gelicon--grid,.gelicon--chapters,.gelicon--list,.gelicon--listthumb,.gelicon--lock,.gelicon--unlock,.gelicon--home,.gelicon--new,.gelicon--vocab,.gelicon--degraded,.gelicon--calendar-mini,.gelicon--calendar,.gelicon--mail,.gelicon--location,.gelicon--load,.gelicon--settings,.gelicon--embed,.gelicon--external,.gelicon--traffic,.gelicon--refresh,.gelicon--link,.gelicon--point,.gelicon--upload,.gelicon--download,.gelicon--finder,.gelicon--stations,.gelicon--untitled,.gelicon--untitled-2,.gelicon--quote,.gelicon--calendar-30,.gelicon--download-desktop,.gelicon--map,.gelicon--previous-alternative,.gelicon--next-alternative,.gelicon--arrow-down{font-family:'gelicons-core' !important}.gelicon--iplayer::before{content:'\e000'}.gelicon--iplayer-radio::before{content:'\e001'}.gelicon--previous::before{content:'\e002'}.gelicon--up::before{content:'\e003'}.gelicon--down::before{content:'\e004'}.gelicon--next::before{content:'\e005'}.gelicon--tobottom::before{content:'\e006'}.gelicon--totop::before{content:'\e007'}.gelicon--zoomin::before{content:'\e008'}.gelicon--zoomout::before{content:'\e00a'}.gelicon--search::before{content:'\e009'}.gelicon--print::before{content:'\e00b'}.gelicon--print-invert::before{content:'\e00c'}.gelicon--yes::before{content:'\e00d'}.gelicon--no::before{content:'\e00e'}.gelicon--add::before{content:'\e00f'}.gelicon--help::before{content:'\e010'}.gelicon--info::before{content:'\e011'}.gelicon--alert::before{content:'\e012'}.gelicon--expires::before{content:'\e013'}.gelicon--duration::before{content:'\e014'}.gelicon--alarm::before{content:'\e015'}.gelicon--countdown::before{content:'\e016'}.gelicon--grid::before{content:'\e017'}.gelicon--chapters::before{content:'\e018'}.gelicon--list::before{content:'\e019'}.gelicon--listthumb::before{content:'\e01a'}.gelicon--lock::before{content:'\e01b'}.gelicon--unlock::before{content:'\e01c'}.gelicon--home::before{content:'\e01d'}.gelicon--new::before{content:'\e01e'}.gelicon--vocab::before{content:'\e01f'}.gelicon--degraded::before{content:'\e020'}.gelicon--calendar-mini::before{content:'\e021'}.gelicon--calendar::before{content:'\e022'}.gelicon--mail::before{content:'\e023'}.gelicon--location::before{content:'\e024'}.gelicon--load::before{content:'\e025'}.gelicon--settings::before{content:'\e026'}.gelicon--embed::before{content:'\e027'}.gelicon--external::before{content:'\e028'}.gelicon--traffic::before{content:'\e029'}.gelicon--refresh::before{content:'\e02a'}.gelicon--link::before{content:'\e02b'}.gelicon--point::before{content:'\e02c'}.gelicon--upload::before{content:'\e02d'}.gelicon--download::before{content:'\e02e'}.gelicon--finder::before{content:'\e02f'}.gelicon--stations::before{content:'\e030'}.gelicon--untitled::before{content:'\42'}.gelicon--untitled-2::before{content:'\43'}.gelicon--quote::before{content:'\22'}.gelicon--playlister-add::before{content:'\e031'}.gelicon--calendar-30::before{content:'\e032'}.gelicon--download-desktop::before{content:'\e033'}.gelicon--map::before{content:'\e034'}.gelicon--previous-alternative::before{content:'\e035'}.gelicon--next-alternative::before{content:'\e036'}.gelicon--arrow-down::before{content:'\e038'}.gelicon--menu,.gelicon--live,.gelicon--subtitles,.gelicon--ws,.gelicon--sd,.gelicon--hd,.gelicon--bsl,.gelicon--ad,.gelicon--3d,.gelicon--tv,.gelicon--radio,.gelicon--mobile,.gelicon--desktop,.gelicon--game,.gelicon--tablet,.gelicon--quiz,.gelicon--guidance,.gelicon--record,.gelicon--listen,.gelicon--play,.gelicon--pause,.gelicon--rewind,.gelicon--forward,.gelicon--restart,.gelicon--image,.gelicon--document,.gelicon--slideshow,.gelicon--activity,.gelicon--360,.gelicon--podcast,.gelicon--newsletter,.gelicon--rss,.gelicon--fullscreen,.gelicon--expand,.gelicon--popout,.gelicon--mute,.gelicon--music-on,.gelicon--music-off,.gelicon--windows,.gelicon--apple,.gelicon--interactive{font-family:'gelicons-media' !important}.gelicon--menu::before{content:'\e900'}.gelicon--live::before{content:'\e100'}.gelicon--subtitles::before{content:'\e101'}.gelicon--ws::before{content:'\e102'}.gelicon--sd::before{content:'\e103'}.gelicon--hd::before{content:'\e104'}.gelicon--bsl::before{content:'\e105'}.gelicon--ad::before{content:'\e106'}.gelicon--3d::before{content:'\e107'}.gelicon--tv::before{content:'\e108'}.gelicon--radio::before{content:'\e109'}.gelicon--mobile::before{content:'\e10a'}.gelicon--desktop::before{content:'\e10b'}.gelicon--game::before{content:'\e10c'}.gelicon--tablet::before{content:'\e10d'}.gelicon--quiz::before{content:'\e10e'}.gelicon--guidance::before{content:'\e10f'}.gelicon--record::before{content:'\e110'}.gelicon--listen::before{content:'\e111'}.gelicon--play::before{content:'\e112'}.gelicon--pause::before{content:'\e113'}.gelicon--rewind::before{content:'\e114'}.gelicon--forward::before{content:'\e115'}.gelicon--restart::before{content:'\e116'}.gelicon--image::before{content:'\e117'}.gelicon--document::before{content:'\e118'}.gelicon--slideshow::before{content:'\e119'}.gelicon--activity::before{content:'\e11a'}.gelicon--360::before{content:'\e11b'}.gelicon--podcast::before{content:'\e11c'}.gelicon--newsletter::before{content:'\e11d'}.gelicon--rss::before{content:'\e11e'}.gelicon--fullscreen::before{content:'\e11f'}.gelicon--expand::before{content:'\e120'}.gelicon--popout::before{content:'\e121'}.gelicon--mute::before{content:'\e122'}.gelicon--music-on::before{content:'\e123'}.gelicon--music-off::before{content:'\e124'}.gelicon--windows::before{content:'\e125'}.gelicon--apple::before{content:'\e126'}.gelicon--interactive::before{content:'\e900'}.gelicon--share,.gelicon--recommend,.gelicon--comments,.gelicon--blog,.gelicon--smiley,.gelicon--love,.gelicon--twitter,.gelicon--facebook,.gelicon--google-plus,.gelicon--google,.gelicon--spotify,.gelicon--pinterest,.gelicon--tumblr,.gelicon--stumbleupon,.gelicon--linkedin,.gelicon--reddit,.gelicon--digg,.gelicon--instagram,.gelicon--whatsapp{font-family:'gelicons-social' !important}.gelicon--share::before{content:'\e200'}.gelicon--recommend::before{content:'\e201'}.gelicon--comments::before{content:'\e202'}.gelicon--blog::before{content:'\e203'}.gelicon--smiley::before{content:'\e204'}.gelicon--love::before{content:'\e205'}.gelicon--twitter::before{content:'\e300'}.gelicon--facebook::before{content:'\e301'}.gelicon--google-plus::before{content:'\e700'}.gelicon--google::before{content:'\e701'}.gelicon--spotify::before{content:'\e304'}.gelicon--pinterest::before{content:'\e305'}.gelicon--tumblr::before{content:'\e306'}.gelicon--stumbleupon::before{content:'\e307'}.gelicon--linkedin::before{content:'\e308'}.gelicon--reddit::before{content:'\e309'}.gelicon--digg::before{content:'\e30a'}.gelicon--instagram::before{content:'\e30b'}.gelicon--whatsapp::before{content:'\e600'}.basic-button{align-items:center;background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #adadad;border-radius:4px;box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 0 #fff,0 2px 0 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.08);color:#193e6d;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:20px;height:54px;justify-content:center;min-width:222px;text-align:center;transition:0.6s}.basic-button--worklife{color:#0052a1}.basic-button--future{color:#002856}.basic-button--culture{color:#472479}.basic-button--earth{color:#0fbb56}.basic-button--travel{color:#589e50}.basic-button__text{color:#444;font-family:'ReithSans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:18px;line-height:24px;transition:0.6s}.basic-button__text--white{color:#fff}.basic-button__text--curious{font-family:'CuriousSansBold'}.basic-button__text--worklife{color:#0052a1}.basic-button__text--future{color:#002856}.basic-button__text--culture{color:#472479}.basic-button__text--earth{color:#0fbb56}.basic-button__text--travel{color:#589e50}.basic-button::before{padding-right:16px}.basic-button:hover{background-color:#dedede}.basic-button--background-light-blue:hover{background-color:#dfe8ff}.basic-button--background-worklife{background-color:#0052a1}.basic-button--background-future{background-color:#002856}.basic-button--background-culture{background-color:#472479}.basic-button--background-earth{background-color:#0fbb56}.basic-button--background-travel{background-color:#589e50}.basic-button--background-worklife:hover{background-color:#4494e4}.basic-button--background-future:hover{background-color:#ffc857}.basic-button--background-culture:hover{background-color:#472479}.basic-button--background-earth:hover{background-color:#002856}.basic-button--background-travel:hover{background-color:#002856}.basic-button__text--bold{font-weight:bold}.load-more-button{box-sizing:border-box}.load-more-button__refresh.gelicon--refresh{margin-right:16px;transform:rotate(90deg)}.load-more-button__downarrow{color:#adadad;font-size:22px;transition:0.6s}.load-more-button__loading .load-more-button__refresh.gelicon--refresh{animation:spin 2s linear infinite}.load-more-button__downarrow:first-of-type{padding-right:16px}.load-more-button__downarrow:not(:first-of-type){padding-left:16px}@keyframes spin{0%{transform:rotate(90deg)}100%{transform:rotate(-270deg)}}.see-more-button{border-bottom:1px solid #979797;text-align:center}.see-more-button-inner{background-color:transparent;border:0;color:#6c6c6c;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;margin-bottom:13px;position:relative;text-transform:uppercase}.see-more-button-inner--light{color:#b4b4b4}.see-more-button-inner__arrow{color:#6c6c6c;font-size:10px;position:absolute;right:9px;top:2px}.see-more-button-inner__arrow--light{color:#b4b4b4}.see-more-button-inner__text{margin-right:24px}.read-more-button{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-weight:bold;position:relative;width:224px}.AdFrame{display:inline-flex}.AdFrame--default{background-color:#f6f6f6}.AdFrame--dark-grey{background-color:rgba(26,26,26,0.8)}.AdFrame--centre-aligned{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:center}.text-with-styled-background{height:inherit;position:relative;width:100%}.text-with-styled-background--collection{display:inline-block;width:unset}.text-with-styled-background--center-align{align-items:center;display:flex}.text-with-styled-background__text{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';color:#444;display:block;font-size:20px;line-height:24px;padding:0 0 0 10px;position:relative}.text-with-styled-background__text--large{font-size:26px;line-height:30px;padding:0 0 0 24px}.text-with-styled-background__text--medium{font-size:22px;line-height:28px}.text-with-styled-background__text--remove-padding{padding:0;width:100%}.text-with-styled-background__text--largest{font-size:38px;line-height:47px}.text-with-styled-background__text--worklife{color:#0052a1}.text-with-styled-background__text--future{color:#002856}.text-with-styled-background__text--culture{color:#472479}.text-with-styled-background__text--earth{color:#0fbb56}.text-with-styled-background__text--travel{color:#589e50}.text-with-styled-background__text--blue{color:#0052a1}.text-with-styled-background__text--collection{font-size:28px;line-height:34px;padding:0}.text-with-styled-background__text--collection--medium{font-size:32px;line-height:38px}.text-with-styled-background__text--collection--large{font-size:38px;line-height:47px}.text-with-styled-background__line-container{bottom:0;margin-left:13px;position:absolute;width:calc(100% - 26px)}.text-with-styled-background__line{background-color:rgba(25,62,109,0.05);height:26px;max-width:240px;position:relative}.text-with-styled-background__line--large{bottom:-10px;height:42px;max-width:340px}.text-with-styled-background__line--narrow{height:26px;max-width:100%}.text-with-styled-background__line--medium{bottom:-10px;height:36px;max-width:340px}.text-with-styled-background__line--largest{max-width:100%}.text-with-styled-background__line-container--collection{width:calc(100% + 26px)}.text-with-styled-background__line-container--no-margin{margin:0}.text-with-styled-background__line--collection{height:26px}.styled-line{background-color:#8beed9;height:3px;width:72px}.styled-line--small{width:45px}.styled-line--medium{width:135px}.styled-line--large{height:1px;width:auto}.styled-line--height--large{height:5px}.styled-line--height--small{height:1px}.styled-line--xs-small{width:25px}.styled-line--worklife{background-color:#8beed9}.styled-line--future{background-color:#ffc857}.styled-line--culture{background-color:#472479}.styled-line--earth{background-color:#002856}.styled-line--travel{background-color:#002856}.styled-line--white{background-color:#fff}.styled-line--dark-grey{background-color:#6a6a6a}.styled-line--light-grey{background-color:#4b4b4b}.styled-line--grey{background-color:#dedede}.simple-header{color:#444;font-size:18px;font-weight:bold;line-height:24px;margin:0}.simple-header--large{font-size:28px;line-height:34px}.simple-header--simple{font-size:18px;line-height:22px}.simple-header--small{font-size:18px;letter-spacing:-0.5px;line-height:28px}.simple-header--smallest{font-family:Helvetica;font-size:14px;line-height:24px}.simple-header--medium{font-size:24px;line-height:28px}.simple-header--regular{font-size:22px;line-height:28px}.simple-header--condensed-bold{font-stretch:condensed}.simple-header--condensed-bold.simple-header--large{line-height:37px}.simple-header--condensed-bold.simple-header--regular{line-height:28px}.simple-header--white{color:#fff} .article-intro{position:relative}.article-intro__line{margin-top:24px}.author-unit{display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:-0.1px;line-height:35px}.author-unit--small-mobile{line-height:30px}.author-unit .author-unit__container{color:#4a4a4a;margin:0 auto}.author-unit .author-unit__container--desktop{margin:0}.author-unit__container{align-items:baseline;display:flex;padding:10px 0}.author-unit__text{font-style:italic;font-weight:600;padding-right:10px;text-decoration:none}.author-unit__icon{color:#6a6a6a;padding-right:14px;position:relative;text-decoration:none;top:1px}.author-unit__icon:hover{color:#00bbf2}.partner-module{border-bottom:1px solid #472479;border-top:0}.partner-module__link,.partner-module__link:visited{align-items:center;color:#444;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;padding:0;text-decoration:none}.partner-module__link:hover{background-color:#f5f5f5}.partner-module__heading{display:inline-block;font-size:16px;line-height:22px;margin:16px 0}.partner-module__partner-name{font-weight:bold}.partner-module__partner-logo{display:block;height:31px;margin:12px 0;margin-left:17px;width:88px}.uppercase-label{color:#8f8d8d;font-size:12px;font-style:condensed;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:1px;line-height:16px;margin:0;padding:0;text-transform:uppercase;transition:color 0.4s}.uppercase-label--small{font-size:11px;font-weight:400;line-height:14px;margin:0}.uppercase-label--medium{font-size:14px;line-height:18px}.uppercase-label--reith-condensed{font-weight:400}.uppercase-label--white{color:#ebebeb}.uppercase-label--light-grey{color:#999}.uppercase-label--dark-grey{color:#444}.uppercase-label--large{font-size:16px;line-height:18px}.uppercase-label--true-white{color:#fff;text-shadow:0 1px 1px #193e6d}.uppercase-label--arial{font-family:Arial} .label-with-line{align-items:center;display:flex}.label-with-line__label{margin:0 16px 0 0}@keyframes spin{0%{transform:rotate(0deg)}100%{transform:rotate(360deg)}}.spinner{fill:#444}.spinner__image{animation:spin 1s linear infinite}.spinner--worklife{fill:#8beed9}.spinner--future{fill:#ffc857}.spinner--culture{fill:#472479}.spinner--travel{fill:#002856}.spinner--earth{fill:#002856}.spinner--white{fill:#fff}.spinner--audio{height:32px;width:32px}.play-button__inline-audio,.play-button__inline-video{align-items:center;background-color:#000;border:0;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:16px;height:49px;justify-content:center;outline:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:49px}.play-button__inline-audio .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video .gelicon--play{color:#ececec;transition-duration:0.6s}.play-button__inline-audio--worklife .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--worklife .gelicon--play{color:#8beed9}.play-button__inline-audio--travel .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--travel .gelicon--play{color:#002856}.play-button__inline-audio--future .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--future .gelicon--play{color:#ffc857}.play-button__inline-audio--culture .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--culture .gelicon--play{color:#472479}.play-button__inline-audio--earth .gelicon--play,.play-button__inline-video--earth .gelicon--play{color:#002856}.play-button__inline-video:hover{background-color:#ececec}.play-button__inline-video:hover .gelicon--play{color:#000}.play-button__inline-audio{color:#fff;font-size:22px;height:50px;padding:0;width:50px}.play-button{align-items:center;background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.2);border:2px solid #5ae9cb;border-radius:50%;box-shadow:0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.2);color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:22px;height:80px;justify-content:center;outline:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:80px}.play-button:hover{color:#5ae9cb}.play-button--white{border:4px solid #fff}.play-button--white:hover{color:#fff}.play-button--white .gelicon--play{color:inherit}.play-button--worklife{border:2px solid #8beed9}.play-button--worklife:hover{color:#8beed9}.play-button--travel{border:2px solid #002856}.play-button--travel:hover{color:#002856}.play-button--future{border:2px solid #ffc857}.play-button--future:hover{color:#ffc857}.play-button--culture{border:2px solid #472479}.play-button--culture:hover{color:#472479}.play-button--earth{border:2px solid #002856}.play-button--earth:hover{color:#002856}.play-button--desktop{font-size:30px;height:76px;width:76px}.play-button--background-hover:hover{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.6)}.inline-video{height:100%}.inline-video__container{position:relative}.inline-video__border-line{padding:0 10px}.inline-video .play-button__inline-video{bottom:0;left:0;position:absolute;z-index:1000}.inline-video__smp{background-color:#000;padding-bottom:56.25%}.inline-video__smp--loaded{background-color:unset;padding-bottom:unset}.inline-video__description{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(106,106,106,0.43);color:#737373;font-size:16px;font-style:italic;line-height:24px;margin:0 10px 0 3%;padding:20px 0 12px}.inline-video__description--desktop{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(106,106,106,0.43);margin:0 18px;padding:28px 0 18px} .body-text-card-inline-video{margin:24px 0;position:relative}.previous-media-button{align-items:center;background-color:#000;border:0;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:16px;height:50px;justify-content:center;outline:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px}.previous-media-button__icon--white svg{fill:#fff}.previous-media-button span{height:18px;width:16px}.error-button{align-items:center;background-color:#000;border:0;display:flex;font-size:22px;height:50px;justify-content:center;outline:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px}.error-button .gelicon--alert{color:#ececec}.inline-audio-player{background:none}.inline-audio-player__smp-container{display:inline-block;width:100%}.inline-audio-player__smp-container>div{display:inline-block;width:100%}.inline-audio-player__smp-container>div>div{height:50px;position:relative}.inline-audio-player__smp-container>div>div>div{padding:0 !important}.inline-audio-player__container{display:flex}.inline-audio-player__cta-holder{align-items:center;background-color:#ededed;display:flex;padding-right:8px}.inline-audio-player__cta-container{align-items:center;display:flex}.inline-audio-player__cta-container.initialising *{cursor:initial;pointer-events:none;user-select:none}.inline-audio-player__cta-container.initialising button{opacity:0.6}.inline-audio-player__text{background:none;border:0;color:#222;cursor:pointer;font-size:18px;height:25px;letter-spacing:-0.1px;line-height:25px;margin-left:12px;outline:inherit;padding:0}.inline-audio-player__text--offline{cursor:default;pointer-events:none}.inline-audio-player__disclaimer{background-color:#e6711b;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;height:25px;left:-110px;line-height:12px;margin-left:0;padding:0 7px;position:relative;top:25px;width:66px}.inline-audio-player__disclaimer:hover .inline-audio-player__arrow{transform:rotate(45deg)}.inline-audio-player__inner-arrow{color:#4d4d49;font-size:10px}.inline-audio-player__arrow-button{background-color:transparent;border:0;margin-left:auto;outline:none;transition:all 0.5s ease}.inline-audio-player__arrow-button__open{transform:rotate(180deg)}.inline-audio-player__disclaimer-copy{color:#444;display:block;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0;line-height:17px;margin-top:16px}.inline-audio-player__arrow{border:solid #fff;border-width:0 2px 2px 0;display:inline-block;padding:3px;position:relative;top:-1px;transform:rotate(-45deg);transition:0.4s}.inline-audio-player__hidden{display:none}.inline-audio-player .collapsible-container{background-color:#ededed;color:#444;font-size:16px;line-height:24px;padding:1rem}.inline-audio-player .collapsible-container__hide{display:none}.inline-audio-player .previous-button__inline-audio{margin-right:1px}.inline-audio-player__line{margin-top:16px}.inline-audio-player .previous-media-button{height:50px;margin-right:1px;width:50px}.inline-audio-player .previous-button__inline-audio{margin-right:1px}.text-summary__text{font-size:16px;line-height:24px;margin:0;text-align:left}.text-summary__text--blue{color:#193e6d}.text-summary__text--black{color:#000}.text-summary__text--grey{color:#6a6a6a}.text-summary__text--dark-grey{color:#444}.text-summary__text--left{text-align:left}.text-summary__text--right{text-align:right}.inline-image__description{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(106,106,106,0.43);font-style:italic;margin:0 10px;padding:20px 0 12px}.inline-image__description--desktop{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(106,106,106,0.43);margin:0 18px;padding:20px 0 18px}.inline-image img{border-radius:0}.simple-p-tag{color:#444;font-size:18px;font-weight:bold;line-height:24px;margin:0}.simple-p-tag--large{font-size:28px;line-height:34px}.simple-p-tag--medium{font-size:27px;letter-spacing:-1.69px;line-height:32px}.simple-p-tag--quote{color:#575757}.simple-header--serif-light-italic{font-style:italic;line-height:inherit}.inline-quote{border-left:3px solid #575757;color:#575757;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:-1.69px;line-height:32px;margin:0;padding-left:22px}.inline-quote--worklife{border-left:3px solid #8beed9}.inline-quote--future{border-left:3px solid #ffc857}.inline-quote--culture{border-left:3px solid #472479}.inline-quote--earth{border-left:3px solid #002856}.inline-quote h2{font-weight:300}.article-video{height:100%;position:relative}.article-video img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.article-video__overlay{display:flex;height:100%;justify-content:center;top:0;width:100%}.article-video__play-button{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;left:50%;padding:0;position:absolute;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);z-index:1500}.article-video__label{margin-bottom:16px}.article-video__image{bottom:0;height:100%;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.article-video__image--hide{opacity:0}.article-video__playercore{display:block}.article-video__playercore--mobile{display:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.article-video__playercore--show{display:block}.article-video--bordered{border-radius:4px;overflow:hidden} .copyright__text{color:#737373;font-size:16px;font-style:italic;line-height:24px;margin-bottom:10px;text-align:center}@media (max-width: 767px){.copyright__text{margin-top:12px}}.hero-video{align-items:center;display:flex;height:180px;justify-content:center;position:relative;z-index:1}.hero-video__video{align-items:center;display:flex;height:80%;justify-content:center;position:relative;width:80%;z-index:2}.hero-video__video--desktop{left:0;top:65px;width:71.5% !important}.hero-video__video--mobile{height:100%;width:100%}.hero-video__video--small-desktop{height:70%;left:0;top:78px;width:67%}.hero-video--small-desktop,.hero-video--desktop{display:block;height:720px}.hero-video img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%;filter:brightness(40%)}@media all and (-ms-high-contrast: none), (-ms-high-contrast: active){.hero-video img{opacity:0.5}}.hero-video--mobile{height:280px}.hero-video--medium-mobile{height:430px}.hero-video--tablet{height:574px}.hero-video--tablet .hero-video__video{margin-bottom:10px}.hero-video__play-button{position:absolute;z-index:100}.hero-video__video div div{position:inherit !important;position:unset !important} .content-embed{width:100%} .infographic-embed__frame{width:100%} .screen-reader-only{border:0;clip:rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px);clip-path:inset(50%);height:1px;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;padding:0;position:absolute !important;width:1px;word-wrap:normal !important}.email-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:11px;height:50px;justify-content:center;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.email-icon:hover{background-color:#000}.email-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.facebook-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:15px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.facebook-icon:hover{background-color:#3b5998}.facebook-icon--blue{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #3b5998;color:#3b5998}.facebook-icon--blue:hover{background-color:#3b5998;color:#fff}.facebook-icon--white{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #fff;color:#fff}.facebook-icon--white:hover{background-color:#fff;color:#3b5998}.facebook-icon--small{font-size:20px;height:38px;width:38px} .ticked-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#13de99;border-radius:50%;box-shadow:0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.2);display:flex;height:50px;justify-content:center;width:50px;z-index:55}.ticked-icon--small{font-size:12px;height:38px;width:38px}.google-plus-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:26px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.google-plus-icon:hover{background-color:#d34836}.google-plus-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.linkedin-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:13px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.linkedin-icon:hover{background-color:#0077b5}.linkedin-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.reddit-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:26px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.reddit-icon:hover{background-color:#ff4500}.reddit-icon__hide{display:none}.reddit-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.twitter-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:13px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.twitter-icon:hover{background-color:#1da1f2}.twitter-icon--light-blue{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #1da1f2;color:#1da1f2}.twitter-icon--light-blue:hover{background-color:#1da1f2;color:#fff}.twitter-icon--white{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #fff;color:#fff}.twitter-icon--white:hover{background-color:#fff;color:#1da1f2}.twitter-icon--small{font-size:18px;height:38px;width:38px}.whatsapp-icon{align-items:center;background-color:#193e6d;border-radius:50%;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:13px;height:50px;justify-content:center;text-decoration:none;transition-duration:0.6s;width:50px;z-index:55}.whatsapp-icon:hover{background-color:#25d366}.whatsapp-icon--red:hover{background-color:#f00}.article-share-tools{display:flex}.article-share-tools a,.article-share-tools button{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #e4e4e4;border-radius:0;box-sizing:border-box;color:#979797;display:flex;height:52px;margin-right:2px;width:52px}.article-share-tools--dark a,.article-share-tools--dark button{color:#444;height:54px;width:54px}.article-share-tools--dark a svg,.article-share-tools--dark button svg{stroke:#444}.article-share-tools a:hover,.article-share-tools button:hover{background-color:#fff}.article-share-tools .facebook-icon:hover{color:#3b5898}.article-share-tools .email-icon:hover{color:#615f5d}.article-share-tools .twitter-icon:hover{color:#47c7fa}.article-share-tools .linkedin-icon:hover{color:#0077b5}.article-share-tools .whatsapp-icon:hover{color:#25d366}.article-share-tools .facebook-messenger{color:#0184ff}.article-share-tools .ticked-icon{background-color:transparent;border:1px solid #e4e4e4;border-radius:0;box-shadow:none;font-size:11px;margin-right:2px;padding:3px}.article-share-tools--popout>*,.article-share-tools--popout a{color:#020203;margin-bottom:3px;transition:0.4s} .share-button{align-items:center;background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #e4e4e4;color:#444;cursor:pointer;display:flex;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;justify-content:center;letter-spacing:3px;padding:18px 16px;text-transform:uppercase;transition:0.6s;width:110px;z-index:55}.share-button .gelicon--share{margin-right:10px;transition:0.3s ease-in}.share-button:hover .gelicon--share,.share-button .gelicon--share-sharing{transform:rotate(-180deg)} .share-tools-popout{align-items:center;background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #979797;display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding:30px 0 20px;position:relative;width:300px}.share-tools-popout__text{color:#444;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0 18px 18px;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase}.share-tools-popout__url-container{padding:0 18px;width:100%}.share-tools-popout__articleurl{border:1px solid #979797;box-sizing:border-box;color:#a39f9f;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:-0.5px;margin-bottom:8px;margin-top:0;padding:12px 10px;text-align:center;width:262px}.share-tools-popout__close{align-items:center;background-color:unset;border:unset;cursor:pointer;display:flex;position:absolute;right:8px;top:20px}.share-tools-popout__close:hover .share-tools-popout__close-icon{color:#888;transform:rotate(90deg)}.share-tools-popout__close-icon{color:#000;font-size:16px;transition:0.4s}.share-tools-popout__border-arrow{background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #979797;border-bottom:0;border-right:0;height:12px;left:40px;position:absolute;top:-7px;transform:rotate(45deg);width:12px}.share-tools-popout__tools{margin-bottom:13px}.share-tools-popout__details{align-self:normal;color:#444;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0;line-height:16px;margin:0;max-width:180px;padding-left:14px}.share-tools-popout__copied,.share-tools-popout__copy{background-color:#000;border:unset;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin-bottom:18px;padding:12px 6px;text-transform:uppercase;transition:0.4s;width:110px}.share-tools-popout__copy:hover{background-color:#555}.share-tools-popout__copied .gelicon--yes{color:#ff9700;margin-left:8px} .share-button-with-popout{position:relative;z-index:9999}.share-button-with-popout__popout{max-width:330px;padding-right:8px;position:absolute;top:53px;width:100%}.share-button-with-popout__popout--desktop{width:auto} .article-end__line--long{margin-bottom:24px}.article-end__share-tools{margin-bottom:0}.article-end--tablet .article-end__line--long{margin-bottom:36px}.article-end--desktop .article-end__line--long{margin-bottom:44px}.article-end--desktop .article-end__share-tools{display:flex;margin-bottom:50px}.article-end--desktop .article-end__share{margin-top:0}.article-end__share{margin-top:5px}.section-header-text__text{background-color:#fff;border-radius:4px;box-shadow:0 0 20px 0 rgba(153,153,153,0.5),0 2px 5px 0 rgba(153,153,153,0.5);margin:0 8px;opacity:0.95;padding:16px;position:relative;z-index:3}.section-header-text__text--no-margin{margin:0}.section-header-text__ad{display:flex;justify-content:flex-end;margin:0 8px 8px;position:relative;top:unset}.section-header-text__ad--desktop{margin:0 0 8px}.section-header-text__title{display:inline-block}.section-header-text__title--large-margin{margin:0 40px 16px 0}.section-header-text__title--premium{border:1.78px solid;padding:8px}.section-header-text__title-content{color:#444;font-size:22px;font-weight:bold;margin:unset}.section-header-text__title-content--tablet{font-size:24px}.section-header-text__title-content--desktop{font-size:28px}.section-header-text__description{color:#555;font-size:14px;line-height:20px;margin:0}.section-header-text__description--large{font-size:16px;line-height:24px}.section-header-unit{max-width:1280px;position:relative}.section-header-unit--tablet{height:320px}.section-header-unit--desktop{border-radius:4px;height:320px;overflow:hidden}.section-header-unit__image{height:320px;max-height:320px;overflow:hidden;position:relative}.section-header-unit__image img{left:50%;position:relative;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%)}.section-header-unit__image--right img{left:unset;min-width:100%;right:0;width:unset}.section-header-unit__image--left img{left:unset;min-width:100%;right:unset;width:unset}.section-header-unit__content{position:relative;transform:translateY(-50%)}.section-header-unit__content--desktop{bottom:0;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;max-width:420px;position:absolute;right:32px;top:0;transform:none}.section-header-unit__content--advert{transform:translateY(calc(-50% - 28px))} .domestic-disclaimer{background-color:#333;position:relative}.domestic-disclaimer__content{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;margin:auto;max-width:990px}.domestic-disclaimer__content--desktop-small{max-width:976px}.domestic-disclaimer__content--desktop{max-width:1248px}.domestic-disclaimer__text{color:#d8d8d8;font-size:13px;line-height:14px;margin:auto;padding:8px 16px}.domestic-disclaimer__text--tablet{font-size:14px;line-height:19px;padding:16px 54px 16px 16px}.domestic-disclaimer__text--desktop{font-size:14px;line-height:19px;margin-left:0;max-width:890px;padding:14px 16px}.domestic-disclaimer__close-button{align-items:center;background-color:unset;border:unset;cursor:pointer;display:flex;padding:0 16px 0 0;position:relative}.domestic-disclaimer__close-button--desktop{padding:0 16px 0 0}.domestic-disclaimer__close-icon{color:#d8d8d8;font-size:16px}.domestic-disclaimer__close-icon--desktop{font-size:22px}.drop-capped{align-items:center;border:2px solid #444;color:#444;display:flex;float:left;font-size:58px;font-weight:bold;height:84px;justify-content:center;margin:8px 10px 4px 0;text-transform:uppercase;width:84px}.drop-capped--worklife{border-color:#8beed9}.drop-capped--future{border-color:#ffc857}.drop-capped--culture{border-color:#444}.drop-capped--earth{border-color:#002856}.drop-capped--travel{border-color:#002856}.drop-capped--desktop{margin-right:24px}.label-list{display:flex;flex-direction:row;position:relative}.label-list__line{width:100%}.label-list__content{margin:30px 0 0 16px;width:100%}.label-list__content--tablet{margin:34px 0 0 38px}.label-list__content--desktop{margin:42px 0 0 32px}.label-list__list-item{margin:0;padding:0}.label-list__link{color:#444;font-size:18px;line-height:24px;text-decoration:none}.label-list__link:hover{color:#adadad}.label-list__link--large{font-size:22px;line-height:29px}.label-list__link:not(:first-of-type){margin-top:8px}.label-list__link--large:not(:first-of-type){margin-top:12px}.label-list__list-items{display:flex;flex-direction:column;margin-top:36px}.label-list__list-items--tablet{margin-top:52px}.label-list__list-items--desktop{margin-top:46px}.offline-reading{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.offline-reading__header{font-size:14px;line-height:20px;margin:0 0 16px;max-width:220px;text-align:center}.offline-reading__header--desktop{font-size:18px;max-width:460px}.offline-reading__buttons{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;text-align:center}.offline-reading__buttons--desktop{align-items:center;flex-direction:row}.offline-reading__top-stories{margin-bottom:24px}.offline-reading__top-stories--desktop{margin:0 16px 0 0}.offline-reading__icon{display:block;height:auto;margin-bottom:24px;width:120px}.rectangle-image{background-size:cover;height:74px;max-width:100%;overflow:hidden;position:relative;width:132px}.rectangle-image img{height:100%;left:50%;position:absolute;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);width:auto}.rectangle-image--small{box-sizing:border-box;height:32px;width:56px}.rectangle-image--large{box-sizing:border-box;height:162px;width:288px}.rectangle-image--medium{box-sizing:border-box;height:126px;width:222px}.rectangle-image--full-screen{padding-top:56.25%;width:100%}.rectangle-image img{transition:all 0.4s ease}.rectangle-image__overlay{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.6);bottom:0;height:100%;left:0;opacity:0;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;right:0;top:0;width:100%}.rectangle-image__overlay--culture{background-color:rgba(72,41,120,0.6)}.rectangle-image:hover .rectangle-image__overlay{opacity:1}.rectangle-image:hover img{height:108%}.rectangle-story-item{display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:100%;justify-content:space-between;margin:auto;max-width:100%;width:288px}.rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-image__overlay{opacity:1}.rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-story-item__icon{background-color:#000}.rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture:hover .rectangle-story-item__icon{background-color:#482978}.rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-image img{height:108%}.rectangle-story-item__image-container{position:relative;width:100%}.rectangle-story-item--tablet{width:222px}.rectangle-story-item__container{display:flex;flex:1 1 auto;flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-between;margin-top:3px;width:100%}.rectangle-story-item__label{color:#4a4a4a;display:block;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:16px;margin-right:auto;margin-top:20px;padding-bottom:3px;text-decoration:none;text-transform:uppercase}.rectangle-story-item__label--worklife:hover,.rectangle-story-item__label--future:hover,.rectangle-story-item__label__travel:hover{background-image:none}.rectangle-story-item__label--worklife>span:hover,.rectangle-story-item__label--future>span:hover,.rectangle-story-item__label__travel>span:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #4a4a4a}.rectangle-story-item__label--culture:hover{background-image:none}.rectangle-story-item__label--culture>span:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #482978}.rectangle-story-item__line{display:block;margin:16px 0}.rectangle-story-item__author{color:#4a4a4a;display:block;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:0.1px;line-height:35px;text-decoration:none}.rectangle-story-item__title{color:rgba(46,46,46,0.85);display:block;font-size:18px;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:30px;text-decoration:none}.rectangle-story-item__icon{background-color:#000;bottom:0;color:#fff;font-size:14px;height:44px;line-height:44px;position:absolute;text-align:center;transition:0.4s ease;width:44px}.rectangle-story-item__title--white,.rectangle-story-item__author--white,.rectangle-story-item__label--white{color:#fff}.rectangle-story-item__label--white:hover{border-bottom:0}.rectangle-story-item__label--white>span:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #fff} .rectangle-article-group{display:flex;flex:1;flex-direction:column;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center;position:relative}.rectangle-article-group--tablet,.rectangle-article-group--desktop{flex-direction:row}.rectangle-article-group__article{display:inline-block;padding-top:12px}.rectangle-article-group__article--tablet{padding:0 16px 0 0}.rectangle-article-group__article--desktop{padding:0 24px 0 0} .fake-ad{align-content:center;align-items:center;background:#f6f6f6;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;padding:8px}.fake-ad__body{align-items:center;background:#5ae9cb;color:#fff;display:flex;flex:0 0 auto;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;justify-content:center}.fake-ad__text{align-self:center;color:#444;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;line-height:1.5;text-align:right;text-transform:uppercase}.fake-ad--mpu .fake-ad__body{height:320px;width:320px}.fake-ad--mpu .fake-ad__text{width:320px}.fake-ad--mobile-leaderboard .fake-ad__body{height:50px;width:300px}.fake-ad--mobile-leaderboard .fake-ad__text{width:300px}.fake-ad--leaderboard .fake-ad__body{height:90px;width:728px}.fake-ad--leaderboard .fake-ad__text{width:728px} .inline-html{display:block} .body-text-card-inline-image{margin:24px 0;position:relative}.body-text-card{color:#444;display:block;font-size:16px;line-height:1.5}.body-text-card__image,.body-text-card__video{margin:24px 0}.body-text-card__text{display:block}.body-text-card__advert{margin:20px 0}.body-text-card__text div a{cursor:pointer;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none}.body-text-card__text a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.body-text-card__text>div>p{margin:0 20px 16px}.body-text-card__text>div>p:last-child{margin-bottom:0;padding-bottom:0}.body-text-card__drop-capped{float:left;margin:0 8px 0 20px;padding-top:6px}.body-text-card__text--drop-capped p:first-of-type::first-letter{color:transparent;font-size:0}.body-text-card__text--flush-text>div>p{margin-left:0;margin-right:0}.body-text-card__text--future div a:visited{color:#666}.body-text-card__text--future div a{color:#002856;text-decoration-color:#002856}.body-text-card__text--travel div a{color:#589e50;text-decoration-color:#589e50}.body-text-card__text--worklife div a{color:#0052a1;text-decoration-color:#0052a1}.body-text-card__text--earth div a{color:#0fbb56;text-decoration-color:#0fbb56}.body-text-card__text--culture div a{color:#472479;text-decoration-color:#472479}.swimlane-inner{background-position:center;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-size:auto 100%;display:block;padding:24px 16px}.swimlane-inner--small{padding:24px 8px}.swimlane-inner--tablet{padding:28px 16px 42px}.swimlane-inner--small-desktop{padding:30px 16px 42px}.swimlane-inner--desktop{padding:38px 16px 42px}.swimlane{overflow:hidden;position:relative;z-index:0}.swimlane__black{background-color:#0e0e0e}.swimlane__background-image{height:500px;position:absolute;right:0;top:0;width:915px;z-index:-1}.swimlane__background-image--mobile{height:181px;width:320px}.swimlane__background-image--tablet{height:421px;width:752px}.swimlane__background-image--desktop{height:500px;width:915px}.swimlane__background-image--atb{background-color:rgba(51,51,51,0.8);background-size:cover;height:100%;width:100%}.swimlane__item{margin:0 0 25px;width:100%}.swimlane__item--desktop{margin:0}.swimlane__item--tablet{margin:0 16px 25px 0;width:calc((100% - 48px) / 3)}.swimlane__item--tablet:nth-of-type(3n+3){margin-right:0}.swimlane__item--two-columns{margin-right:0 !important;max-width:572px;width:50%}.swimlane__item--four-columns{box-sizing:border-box;margin-bottom:25px;margin-right:16px;width:calc((100% - 48px) / 4)}.swimlane__item--four-columns:nth-of-type(4n+4){margin-right:0}.swimlane__items{display:flex;flex-direction:column;margin-top:24px;text-align:left}.swimlane__items--desktop{flex-direction:row;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center;margin-top:42px}.swimlane__items--small-desktop{flex-direction:row;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:30px}.swimlane__items--tablet{flex-direction:row;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;margin-top:30px}.swimlane__items--no-title{margin-top:0}.swimlane__content{margin:auto;max-width:942px;text-align:center}.swimlane__content--desktop{max-width:1216px}.swimlane__title{color:#fff;font-size:14px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;text-transform:uppercase}.swimlane__title--black{color:#010101;font-weight:400}.see-more-button-container-alt{color:#0e0e0e}.branding{box-sizing:content-box !important;display:inline-block;height:24px;padding:12px 16px;width:100%}.branding__icon{display:inline-block;height:24px;width:100%}.branding__icon g{fill:#fff}.branding--medium{padding:16px}.branding--large{padding:16px 24px}.branding--worklife{background-color:#0052a1}.branding--future{background-color:#002856}.branding--culture{background-color:#472479}.branding--earth{background-color:#0fbb56}.branding--travel{background-color:#589e50}.branding--travel svg,.branding--earth svg,.branding--culture svg,.branding--future svg,.branding--worklife svg{height:24px}.branding--small,.branding--small svg{height:17px}.branding__icon--medium,.branding--medium,.branding--medium svg{height:22px}.branding__icon--large,.branding--large,.branding--large svg{height:24px}.branding__icon--largest,.branding--largest,.branding--largest svg{height:32px}.branding__icon--small,.branding--travel .branding__icon--small svg,.branding--earth .branding__icon--small svg,.branding--culture .branding__icon--small svg,.branding--future .branding__icon--small svg,.branding--worklife .branding__icon--small svg{height:17px}.nav-label{color:#4e4e4e;font-size:16px;line-height:22px;margin:auto;max-width:1280px;transition:0.4s}.nav-label:hover{color:#8e8e8e}.nav-label--menu{color:#ebebeb}.nav-label--menu:hover{color:#cecece}.nav-label--white{color:#fff}.nav-label--curiousSans{font-family:'CuriousSansBold'}.nav-links__link{align-items:center;display:flex;height:100%;justify-content:center;padding-right:24px;position:relative;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap}.nav-links__link--active p{border-bottom:2px solid #002856;font-weight:bold}.nav-links__link--active--menu p{border-bottom:unset}.nav-links__link--active--worklife p{border-bottom:2px solid #0052a1}.nav-links__link--active--culture p{border-bottom:2px solid #472479}.nav-links__link--active--earth p{border-bottom:2px solid #0fbb56}.nav-links__link--active--travel p{border-bottom:2px solid #589e50}.nav-links__icon{background-color:#0052a1;bottom:10px;height:2px;position:absolute;width:80px}.nav-links__link--menu{display:block;padding-right:unset}.nav-links__icon--menu{display:none}.nav-links__icon--menu-tablet{width:60px}.nav-links__icon--worklife{background-color:#0052a1}.nav-links__icon--future{background-color:#002856}.nav-links__icon--culture{background-color:#472479}.nav-links__icon--earth{background-color:#0fbb56}.nav-links__icon--travel{background-color:#589e50}.nav-links__link--menu p{font-size:26px;padding:0 0 32px 24px}.nav-links__link--menu-desktop p{font-size:32px;line-height:42px;padding:0 0 44px 100px}.close-nav{align-items:center;background-color:unset;border:unset;cursor:pointer;display:flex;position:relative;transition:0.4s}.close-nav__icon{color:#fff;display:flex;font-size:20px;transition:0.4s}.close-nav:hover .close-nav__icon{color:#cecece;transform:rotate(90deg)}.close-nav__label{display:inline-block;margin-right:12px} .follow-us-on{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;position:relative}.follow-us-on__text{color:#fff;font-size:16px;font-style:condensed;line-height:20px;margin:0 0 20px;padding:0;text-transform:uppercase}.follow-us-on__links{display:flex;flex-direction:row}.follow-us-on__link:first-child{margin-right:16px}.ad-slot{display:inline-block}.ad-slot__container{align-items:center;display:flex}.ad-slot__label{max-width:120px;min-width:112px;padding-right:8px;text-align:right}.ad-slot--leaderboard{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:center}.ad-slot__label--mpu,.ad-slot__label--leaderboard{margin-bottom:8px;max-width:unset;padding-right:unset;text-align:right}.ad-slot__container--mpu,.ad-slot__container--leaderboard{display:inline-block;flex-wrap:unset}.ad-slot__fake--sponsor{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:31px;min-width:88px}.ad-slot__fake--mpu{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:250px;min-width:300px}.ad-slot__fake--mpu-large{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:600px;min-width:300px}.ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-large{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:90px;min-width:728px}.ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-medium{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:50px;min-width:320px}.ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-small{background-color:#5ae9cb;height:50px;min-width:300px}.ad-slot__label--dark{color:#dcdcdc}.ad-slot--dark{background-color:#f6f6f6;padding:8px}.ad-slot--black{background-color:rgba(26,26,26,0.8);padding:8px} .sponsor-section{display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:100%;max-width:530px}.sponsor-section--menu{padding:20px 0 16px 24px}.sponsor-section__container{display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:100%}.sponsor-section__container--desktop{align-items:center;flex-direction:row;justify-content:space-between}.sponsor-section__sponsor{color:#fff;padding-right:16px}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';color:#4e4e4e;font-size:26px;margin:0;white-space:nowrap}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name--mobile{padding-bottom:16px}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name--desktop{font-size:22px}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name--menu{color:#fff}.sponsor-section__sponsor-name--menu-desktop{font-size:32px}.sponsor-section__summary{color:#ebebeb;font-size:16px;line-height:24px;padding-top:16px}.sponsor-section__advert{display:inline-block}.nav-menu{background-color:#0052a1;display:block;height:100%;left:0;min-height:100vh;opacity:0.98;overflow:auto;position:fixed;top:0;width:100vw}.nav-menu--worklife{background-color:#0052a1}.nav-menu--future{background-color:#002856}.nav-menu--culture{background-color:#472479}.nav-menu--earth{background-color:#0fbb56}.nav-menu--travel{background-color:#589e50}.nav-menu__close-nav{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;margin:auto;max-width:1280px;padding:16px 8px 60px}.nav-menu__close-nav--desktop{padding:20px 16px 70px}.nav-menu__sponsored{background-color:rgba(34,34,34,0.5);height:100%;margin-bottom:32px}.nav-menu__sponsored--desktop{margin-bottom:44px}.nav-menu__sponsored-container{padding:20px 16px 16px 24px}.nav-menu__sponsored--desktop-container{margin:auto;max-width:1264px;padding:20px 16px 20px 100px}.nav-menu__follow-us{padding:52px 0 34px}.burger-nav{background:transparent;border:0;color:#0052a1;cursor:pointer;font-size:20px;outline:none;padding:0}.burger-nav--worklife{color:#0052a1}.burger-nav--future{color:#002856}.burger-nav--culture{color:#472479}.burger-nav--earth{color:#0fbb56}.burger-nav--travel{color:#589e50}.burger-nav--medium{font-size:16px}.burger-nav--small{font-size:12px} .open-nav{align-items:center;background-color:unset;border:unset;cursor:pointer;display:flex;justify-content:flex-end;padding:0;position:relative;transition:0.4s}.open-nav__icon{display:flex}.open-nav__label{display:inline-block;margin-right:12px}.nav-build-bar{align-items:center;display:flex;height:auto;margin:auto;max-width:1280px;width:100%}.nav-build-bar--mobile{height:auto;justify-content:space-between}.nav-build-bar--mobile .nav-build-bar__title-content{white-space:pre-wrap}.nav-build-bar--tablet{height:58px}.nav-build-bar--desktop{height:60px}.nav-build-bar__links{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;height:100%;justify-content:flex-end;margin-left:auto;overflow:hidden}.nav-build-bar__sponsored-brand{align-items:center;display:flex;margin-left:8px;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap}.nav-build-bar__sponsored-brand--no-brand{margin-left:0}.nav-build-bar__branding{display:flex;padding:0 8px 0 0}.nav-build-bar__branding--tablet{padding:0 30px 0 0}.nav-build-bar__branding--desktop{padding:0 80px 0 0}.nav-build-bar__title-content{border:1.78px solid;color:#444;font-size:22px;font-weight:bold;margin:unset;padding:8px;width:fit-content}.nav-build-bar__title-content--tablet{font-size:24px;white-space:nowrap}.nav-build-bar__title-content--desktop{font-size:28px}.nav-build-bar__open-nav{display:flex;height:48px}.nav-build-bar__open-nav-button{display:flex;padding-left:8px}.nav-build-bar__sponsored{background-color:#f6f6f6;border:1px solid #d3d3d3;height:48px;padding:0 16px}.nav-build-bar__open-nav--desktop{padding-right:16px}.nav-build-bar__open-nav--mobile{justify-content:flex-end;max-width:100px;width:100%}.nav-bar{background-color:#fff}.nav-bar__hidden-menu{display:none}.nav-bar__visible-menu{display:block}.nav-bar__no-scroll{max-height:100vh;overflow:hidden}.styled-dot{background-color:#5ae9cb;border-radius:50%;box-shadow:0 1px 2px 0 rgba(25,62,109,0.5);cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;height:6px;width:6px}.styled-dot--no-cursor{cursor:unset}.styled-dot--medium{box-shadow:unset;height:10px;width:10px}.styled-dot--dark-blue{background-color:#193e6d}.styled-dot--purple{background-color:#362e67;box-shadow:unset}.styled-dot--black{background-color:#000;box-shadow:unset}.styled-dot--grey-green{background-color:#008e9b;box-shadow:unset}.styled-dot--dark-green{background-color:#589e50;box-shadow:unset}.styled-dot--worklife{background-color:#8beed9}.styled-dot--future{background-color:#ffc857}.styled-dot--culture{background-color:#472479}.styled-dot--earth{background-color:#002856}.styled-dot--travel{background-color:#002856}.styled-dot--worklife-prime{background-color:#0052a1}.styled-dot--future-prime{background-color:#002856}.styled-dot--culture-prime{background-color:#472479}.styled-dot--earth-prime{background-color:#0fbb56}.styled-dot--travel-prime{background-color:#589e50}.styled-dot--large{box-shadow:0 1px 1px 0 rgba(25,62,109,0.5);height:16px;width:16px}.styled-dot--small{box-shadow:unset;height:8px;width:8px}.styled-dot--grey{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.2)}.dot-with-label{align-items:center;display:flex}.dot-with-label__text{padding-left:8px}.dot-with-label__text a{text-decoration:none}.dot-with-label__text:hover h2{color:#adadad} .play-icon{background:transparent;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:12px;outline:none;padding:0}.play-icon--red{color:#f00}.play-icon--grey{color:#999}.play-icon--medium{font-size:16px}.play-icon--large{font-size:20px} .camera-icon{background:transparent;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:12px;outline:none;padding:0}.camera-icon--red{color:#f00}.camera-icon--grey{color:#999}.camera-icon--medium{font-size:16px}.camera-icon--large{font-size:20px} .info-icon{background:transparent;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:12px;outline:none;padding:0}.info-icon--red{color:#f00}.info-icon--grey{color:#999}.info-icon--medium{font-size:16px}.info-icon--large{font-size:20px} .icon-with-label{align-items:center;display:flex}.icon-with-label__icon{padding-right:10px}.more-articles-item{display:flex;flex-direction:column;position:relative;z-index:5}.more-articles-item__link{text-decoration:none}.more-articles-item__container{display:flex;width:100%}.more-articles-item__label{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:8px}.more-articles-item__type{margin-right:16px;position:relative}.more-articles-item__icon{color:#fff;font-size:12px;margin-right:8px}.more-articles-item__text{color:#fff;font-size:20px;font-weight:bold;line-height:24px;padding:0;position:relative;text-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(25,62,109,0.7);transition:color 0.4s}.more-articles-item__text--medium{font-size:22px;line-height:28px}.more-articles-item__text--large{color:#ebebeb;font-size:30px;line-height:37px}.more-articles-item__container--column{flex-direction:column}.more-articles-item__image-container{position:relative}.more-articles-item--two-columns{margin-right:16px}.more-articles-item__label--desktop{margin-top:16px}.more-articles-item__label--tablet{margin-top:16px}.more-articles-item__link:hover .more-articles-item__text{color:#adadad} .more-articles{background-position:center;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-size:cover;object-fit:cover;overflow:hidden;position:relative;transition:background-image 0.4s}.more-articles__heading{display:inline-block;margin:auto;max-width:1272px;padding:20px 0 0 16px;position:relative;z-index:5}.more-articles__stories{margin:10px 16px 42px;max-width:1232px;padding:8px;position:relative;z-index:4}.more-articles__stories--small{padding:0}.more-articles__stories--tablet{margin:24px 16px 72px;max-width:1216px}.more-articles__stories--desktop{margin:56px 48px 92px;max-width:1152px}.more-articles__story-container:not(:first-of-type){padding-top:16px}.more-articles__line{opacity:0.3;padding-top:16px;z-index:5}.more-articles__image-overlay{background-color:rgba(25,62,109,0.3);bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%;z-index:1}.more-articles__image{opacity:0;transition:0.6s}.more-articles__image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.more-articles__image--right img{left:unset;min-width:100%;right:0;width:unset}.more-articles__image--left img{left:unset;min-width:100%;right:unset;width:unset}.more-articles__image--visible{opacity:1}.more-articles__story--two-columns,.more-articles__story--three-columns{padding-right:16px;width:310px}.more-articles__story-container:nth-child(even) .more-articles__story--two-columns{padding-right:0}.more-articles__story-container:nth-child(3n+3) .more-articles__story--three-columns{padding-right:0}.more-articles__stories--two-columns,.more-articles__stories--three-columns{align-items:flex-end;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;padding:16px}.more-articles__stories--two-columns .more-articles-item__link,.more-articles__stories--three-columns .more-articles-item__link{pointer-events:all}.more-articles__story-container--two-columns{display:flex;justify-content:center;width:50%}.more-articles__story-container--two-columns:nth-child(2){padding-top:0}.more-articles__story-container--three-columns{display:flex;justify-content:center;width:33%}.more-articles__story-container--three-columns:nth-child(-n+3){padding-top:0}.more-articles__heading--small{padding:20px 0 0 8px}.more-articles__heading--desktop{max-width:1264px;padding:38px 0 0 16px}.more-articles__heading--tablet{max-width:1264px;padding:24px 0 0 16px} .full-width-image-article{width:100%}.full-width-image-article__container{min-height:325px;overflow:hidden;position:relative}.full-width-image-article__container--desktop{min-height:400px}.full-width-image-article__image{height:100%;overflow:hidden;position:absolute;width:100%}.full-width-image-article__image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.full-width-image-article__text{align-items:center;color:#fff;left:50%;max-width:488px;padding:0 20px;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);width:100%}.full-width-image-article__text a{color:#fff;text-decoration:none}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__label{display:inline-block;font-size:14.4px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;line-height:19px;margin-bottom:11px;text-transform:uppercase}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__header{font-size:24px;letter-spacing:-0.25px;line-height:42px;margin:0;padding:0}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__header--desktop{font-size:33.6px}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__author{font-size:16.6px;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:-0.13px;line-height:42px;margin-bottom:0;margin-top:28px}.full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__author--desktop{margin-top:32px}.full-width-image-article__background{background-image:radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5,36,53,0.37) 50%, rgba(0,0,0,0) 83%);height:100%;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.full-width-image-article__link{color:#fff;text-decoration:none} .most-popular{background-color:#f9f9f9}.most-popular__inner{margin:0 auto;max-width:894px;padding:45px 24px 21px}.most-popular__inner--desktop{padding:47px 0 86px}.most-popular__header{color:#010101;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;margin:0;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase}.most-popular__items{display:block}.most-popular__items--desktop{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:57px}.most-popular-item{box-sizing:border-box;padding-top:33px}.most-popular-item:last-of-type{margin-bottom:42px}.most-popular-item--desktop{padding:0 20px;width:calc(33.333%)}.most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(3n+2){order:2;padding:38px 20px}.most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(3n+3){order:3}.most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(n+4){border-left:1px solid #dadada}.most-popular-item--desktop:last-of-type{margin-bottom:0}.most-popular-item a{text-decoration:none}.most-popular-item__content{align-items:flex-end;display:flex;margin-top:5px}.most-popular-item__number{color:#cbcbcb;font-size:40px;font-style:italic;font-weight:bold;line-height:32px;margin:0 20px 0 0;width:25px}.most-popular-item__label{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0 0 0 45px;text-transform:uppercase}.most-popular-item__title{color:#2e2e2ecc;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:-0.17px;line-height:22px;margin-bottom:0;margin-top:0}.most-popular-item__title--desktop{font-size:16px}.image-gallery-item{margin:26px 0}.image-gallery-item img{height:100%;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -3%;width:106%}@media (max-width: 1000px) and (min-width: 767px){.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -16%;width:116%}}@media (max-width: 1180px) and (min-width: 1024px){.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -8%;width:108%}}@media (max-width: 1365px) and (min-width: 1280px){.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -42%;width:142%}}@media (min-width: 1366px){.image-gallery-item__image--landscape{margin:20px 0 20px -55%;width:155%}}.image-gallery-item__image--portrait{margin:20px 0;width:100%}@media (max-width: 599px){.image-gallery-item__image--portrait{margin-left:-3%;width:106%}}.image-gallery-item__image--portrait,.image-gallery-item__image--portrait img{max-height:507px;min-height:463px}@media (max-width: 1279px) and (min-width: 768px){.image-gallery-item__image--portrait,.image-gallery-item__image--portrait img{min-height:818px}} .StickyElementContent{transition:transform 0.5s}.StickyElementContent--is-undocked{left:0;position:fixed;top:0;width:100%}.StickyElementContent--is-hidden{transform:translateY(-100%)}.styled-list{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}.styled-list__item{display:flex;flex-direction:row}.styled-list__item:not(:first-of-type){padding-top:8px}.styled-list__item a{font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none}.styled-list__item--worklife a{color:#8beed9}.styled-list__item--future a{color:#ffc857}.styled-list__item--culture a{color:#472479}.styled-list__item--earth a{color:#002856}.styled-list__item--travel a{color:#002856}.styled-list__text{color:#444;font-size:16px;line-height:24px;padding-left:20px}.styled-list__dot{display:flex;margin-top:8px}.hero-header{align-items:center;display:flex}.hero-header__header{font-family:'CuriousSansBold';color:#fff;font-size:38px;line-height:40px;margin:0;text-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(25,62,109,0.7)}.hero-header__header--large{font-size:44px;line-height:48px}.hero-header__header--medium{font-size:38px;line-height:47px}.hero-header__header--small{font-size:28px;line-height:34px}.hero-header__header--black{color:#000;text-shadow:unset}.hero-header__header--grey{color:#adadad;text-shadow:unset}.error-page-header{position:relative}.error-page-header__headers{margin-bottom:16px;position:relative;z-index:1}.error-page-header__headers--tablet-plus{margin-bottom:32px}.error-page-header__description{color:#444;font-size:16px;line-height:20px}.error-page-header__play-icon{margin-right:16px}.error-page-header__play-icon button{color:#adadad}.error-page-header__dot-label{display:flex} .error-page{position:relative}.error-page__container{margin-bottom:16px}.error-page__container--tablet-plus{margin-bottom:32px}.error-page__title{margin-bottom:12px}.error-page__title--desktop{margin-bottom:24px} .article-title-card-rectangle{width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__image:hover .article-title-card-rectangle__overlay{opacity:1}.article-title-card-rectangle__overlay{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.6);bottom:0;height:100%;left:0;opacity:0;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;right:0;top:0;transition:transform 0.5s ease;width:100%;will-change:transform}.article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--culture{background-color:rgba(72,41,120,0.6)}.article-title-card-rectangle__image{margin-right:40px;max-height:390px;max-width:620px;overflow:hidden;position:relative;width:auto}.article-title-card-rectangle__image img{display:block;min-height:194px;min-width:344px;width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__image--tablet,.article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop{margin-right:0;width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__image--tablet img,.article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop img{width:110%}.article-title-card-rectangle__image--preview-article{margin-right:0}.article-title-card-rectangle__image--index{margin-right:0;max-width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__container{display:flex;flex-direction:column;position:relative}.article-title-card-rectangle__container--tablet,.article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop{align-items:center;flex-direction:row}.article-title-card-rectangle__container--preview-article{margin-right:8px}.article-title-card-rectangle__container--index{align-items:initial;flex-direction:column}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box{background-color:#fff;margin-left:40px;padding:16px 22px 0;position:relative;top:-22px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:20px;margin:0;text-transform:uppercase;width:fit-content}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--worklife:hover,.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--future:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #4a4a4a}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--culture:hover{border-bottom:1px solid #482978}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index{color:#000;font-size:20px;font-weight:300;letter-spacing:-0.53px;line-height:30px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index--tablet{font-size:28px;letter-spacing:-0.74px;line-height:44px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index--desktop{font-size:32px;letter-spacing:-0.84px;line-height:44px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header{color:#2e2e2e;font-size:18px;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:30px;margin-bottom:30px;margin-top:12px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop{font-size:28px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--tablet{font-size:26px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--index{color:#3d3d3d;font-family:Helvetica;font-size:16px;letter-spacing:-0.12px;line-height:31px;margin-top:4px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:-0.1px;line-height:35px;margin:8px 0 0}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet{margin:14px 0 0}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--tablet,.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop{left:-40px;margin:0;padding:40px;top:0;transform:none}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop{display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--tablet{padding:35px 22px 22px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index{left:0;margin-right:40px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index--tablet{margin-left:50px;margin-right:50px;padding:30px 36px 0;top:-80px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index--desktop{margin-left:50px;max-width:560px;top:-88px;width:100%}.article-title-card-rectangle__link{color:#000;text-decoration:none}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-container{display:block;max-width:252px}.article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--tablet,.article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop{max-width:320px}.article-title-card-rectangle__preview-container{color:#4d4d4d;text-decoration:none}.article-title-card-rectangle__preview-text{display:block;font-size:16px;line-height:24px;margin-top:27px;max-width:396px}.article-title-card-rectangle__read-more{display:inline-block;font-size:15px;letter-spacing:4px;margin:25px 16px 0 0;text-transform:uppercase}.article-title-card-rectangle__arrow{color:#bababa;display:inline-block;transform:rotate(-90deg)}.rectangle-story-group{display:flex;flex-direction:column;margin:auto;position:relative}.rectangle-story-group__articles{display:flex;flex:1;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center;position:relative}.rectangle-story-group__articles--small-tablet{justify-content:unset}.rectangle-story-group__articles--full-screen{display:block}.rectangle-story-group__article{display:inline-block;padding-left:18px;padding-top:16px}.rectangle-story-group__article--tablet{padding-left:20px;padding-top:22px}.rectangle-story-group__article--desktop{padding-left:22px;padding-top:24px}.rectangle-story-group__article--desktop:first-of-type{padding-left:8px}.rectangle-story-group__article--small-tablet{box-sizing:border-box;width:50%}.rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen{display:block;padding:16px}.rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen:first-of-type{padding-top:0}.rectangle-story-group__article--small-desktop{padding-left:10px}.rectangle-story-group__article--small-desktop:last-of-type{padding-right:8px}.rectangle-story-group__articles-container{margin:auto;max-width:950px;overflow:hidden;width:100%}.rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu{display:flex;justify-content:center;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;padding:16px 16px 24px}.rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu--desktop{border-left:1px solid #dadada;display:block;padding:0 0 0 16px;padding-top:0}.rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu--small-desktop{display:block;padding:0 0 0 8px}.rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop{display:flex}.rectangle-story-group__article-hero--tablet{display:flex}.article-labels{font-size:12px;line-height:16px;text-transform:uppercase}.article-labels a{color:#fff;letter-spacing:1px;text-decoration:none}.article-labels__text:first-child{font-weight:bold} .article-headline{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding:43px 0}.article-headline .article-labels{text-align:center}.article-headline__line--short{margin-bottom:40px}.article-headline--largeTablet .article-headline__text{font-size:32px;text-align:center}.article-headline--tablet{padding:31px 0}.article-headline--tablet .article-headline__collection{margin-bottom:24px}.article-headline--tablet .article-headline__text{font-size:32px;letter-spacing:-0.84px;margin:0 15px 23px;text-align:center}.article-headline--mobile{padding:20px 0}.article-headline--mobile .article-headline__text{font-size:24px;letter-spacing:-0.63px;margin:0 15px 15px;text-align:center}.article-headline--mobile .article-headline__collection{margin-bottom:15px}.article-headline__collection{margin-bottom:40px}.article-headline__collection a{color:#242424}.article-headline__text{font-size:45px;letter-spacing:-1.26px;line-height:30px;margin-bottom:44px} @media only screen and (min-width: 1600px){.hero-image{height:900px;position:relative}.hero-image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}}@media only screen and (max-width: 1600px){.hero-image{height:0;overflow:hidden;padding-top:56.25%;position:relative}.hero-image img{height:100%;left:0;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}}.loading-spinner{margin:0 auto;text-align:center}.loading-spinner__message{color:#002756;display:block;font-size:1.2rem;font-weight:bold;margin:12px 0;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase}.loading-spinner__image{display:block;margin:0 auto;width:48px}.article-hero{height:672px;margin:0;overflow:hidden;position:relative;width:100%}.article-hero--small-mobile{height:373px}.article-hero--mobile{height:486px}.article-hero--small-tablet{height:433px}.article-hero--tablet{height:433px}.article-hero--tablet .article-hero__content{padding:60px 15px 0}.article-hero__content{margin:auto;max-width:1004px;pointer-events:none;position:relative;z-index:1}.article-hero--desktop{height:573px}.article-hero--desktop .article-hero__content{padding:50px 30px 0}.article-hero--large-desktop .article-hero__content{max-width:1276px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content{padding:60px 10px 0}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-title,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-title,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-title{font-size:24px;line-height:30px;max-width:220px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-line,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-line,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-line{margin-bottom:16px;margin-top:16px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-labels,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-labels,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-labels{margin-bottom:15px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-cta,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-cta,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-cta{line-height:22px}.article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-cta a,.article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-cta a,.article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-cta a{letter-spacing:3px}.article-hero__ambient-hidden{display:none}.article-hero__background-ambient{bottom:0;left:0;position:absolute;right:0;top:0;z-index:-1}.article-hero__background::after{background-image:linear-gradient(-63deg, rgba(0,0,0,0) 0%, rgba(0,0,0,0.06) 24%, rgba(0,0,0,0.2) 51%, rgba(0,0,0,0.32) 67%, rgba(0,0,0,0.51) 100%);content:'';height:100%;left:0;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.article-hero__background img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.article-hero__background--parallax img{transform:scale(1.1)}.article-hero a{color:#fff;letter-spacing:3px;text-decoration:none}.article-hero__content-cta{clear:both;font-size:16px;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:4px;line-height:20px;max-width:170px;pointer-events:all;text-shadow:0 2px 4px rgba(0,0,0,0.5);text-transform:uppercase}.article-hero__content-cta a{display:flex;letter-spacing:4px}.article-hero__content-labels{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:1px;line-height:16px;margin-bottom:20px;pointer-events:all}.article-hero__content-line{background-color:#fff;border:0;display:block;float:left;height:1px;margin-bottom:18px;margin-right:300px;margin-top:25px;width:120px}.article-hero__content-right-arrow{position:relative}.article-hero__content-right-arrow::before{background:#fff;content:'';height:2px;left:5px;margin-top:-1px;opacity:0.4;position:absolute;top:50%;transition:all 0.3s ease;width:20px}.article-hero__content-right-arrow::after{border-right:2px solid #fff;border-top:2px solid #fff;content:'';display:inline-block;height:10px;left:16px;margin-top:5px;opacity:0.4;position:absolute;transform:rotate(45deg);width:10px}.article-hero__content-right-arrow--small::before{opacity:1}.article-hero__content-right-arrow--small::after{margin-top:6px;opacity:1}.article-hero__content-right-arrow img{height:11px;margin-left:10px;width:19px}.article-hero__content-title{color:#fff;font-size:50px;line-height:54px;margin-top:0;max-width:450px;pointer-events:all;text-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(51,51,51,0.7)}.article-hero__content-title a{letter-spacing:-1.32px}.article-hero__title-text{display:inline}.article-hero__content-title>a:hover>div,.article-hero__content-subtitle>a:hover{background-image:linear-gradient(to right, currentColor 100%, transparent 0%);background-position:0 1.15em;background-repeat:repeat-x;background-size:100% 2px}.article-hero__content-subtitle{clear:both;color:#fff;font-size:23px;font-weight:500;line-height:32px;margin-bottom:16px;margin-top:0;max-width:440px;pointer-events:all;text-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(51,51,51,0.5)}.article-hero__content-subtitle a{letter-spacing:-1px}.article-hero__content-title--small{font-size:30px;line-height:35px}.article-hero__content-title--tablet{clear:both;font-size:32px;letter-spacing:-0.84px;line-height:42px;max-width:264px}.article-hero__content-title--small a{letter-spacing:-0.63px}.article-hero__down-arrow{background-color:transparent;border:0;bottom:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;left:calc(50% - 29px);margin:0;margin-bottom:15px;padding:0;position:absolute;transform:scale(0.5)}.see-more-button-container{color:#fff}.see-more-button{border-bottom:1px solid #979797;text-align:center}.see-more-button__inner{background-color:transparent;border:0;color:#6c6c6c;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;margin-bottom:13px;position:relative;text-transform:uppercase;transition:linear 0.6s}.see-more-button__inner-arrow{color:#6c6c6c;font-size:10px;position:absolute;right:9px;top:2px;transition:linear 0.3s}.see-more-button__inner-text{margin-right:24px}.see-more-button__inner:hover{color:#4a4a4a}.see-more-button__inner:hover .see-more-button__inner-arrow{color:#4a4a4a;transform:rotate(90deg)} @media screen and (min-width: 1000px){.similar-articles-story{max-width:900px}}@media screen and (min-width: 601px) and (max-width: 999px){.similar-articles-story{max-width:600px}}@media screen and (max-width: 600px){.similar-articles-story{max-width:300px}}.related-articles{position:relative}.related-articles__header{text-align:center;background-color:#000;color:#fff;font-size:14px;font-weight:normal;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0 0 20px;padding:8px;text-transform:uppercase}.related-articles__header--bright{margin:20px 0 1.15ex;font-size:13px;background-color:#d8d8d8;color:rgba(0,0,0,0.7);letter-spacing:2px;line-height:3}.related-articles__list{list-style:none;padding:0 0 1.5ex 0;margin:0;display:flex;flex-flow:row wrap}.related-articles__list li{flex-basis:100%;display:flex;flex-flow:row nowrap;justify-content:flex-start;align-items:stretch;align-content:stretch}.related-articles__list li>div{flex:1}.related-articles__list.with-numbers{counter-reset:related-numbers;list-style-image:url(data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7);margin:0 35px}.related-articles__list.with-numbers li::before{counter-increment:related-numbers;content:counter(related-numbers);font-weight:bold;font-size:40px;align-self:flex-end;line-height:1.85;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:0;color:rgba(0,0,0,0.18);flex:0.1 0.1;flex-basis:1ex;padding-right:1ex;text-align:center;display:block}.related-articles__list.with-numbers li{margin-bottom:10px}.related-articles--wide-layout{background-color:initial;margin-top:20px}ul.related-articles__list:not(.list-wide) li{max-width:100%}ul.related-articles__list:not(.list-wide).with-borders li:not(:last-of-type){border-bottom:1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.1)}ul.related-articles__list.list-wide li{max-width:49.8%}ul.related-articles__list.list-wide.with-borders li{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.1)}.related-article{align-items:stretch;display:flex;flex-flow:row nowrap;box-sizing:border-box;font-size:16px;min-height:90px}.related-article__image{width:calc(90px + 0.5ex);flex:0.3 0.3;min-width:90px;max-width:calc(90px + 0.5ex);margin:0;display:block;line-height:0;order:-1}.related-article__image img{width:100%;border:0;margin:0 12px 0 0}.related-article__text{display:flex;flex-flow:column nowrap;width:100%;justify-content:flex-start;align-content:flex-start;position:relative;padding:12px 6px 12px 0;line-height:1.5}.related-article__text a{width:100%;padding-left:12px;display:flex;text-decoration:none}.related-article__text a+a{margin-top:1ex}.related-article__text br{display:none}.related-article__title{color:rgba(46,46,46,0.85);letter-spacing:-0.01em;flex:1}.related-article__title:hover{color:#2e2e2e}.related-article__collection{display:block;color:#4a4a4a;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:2.5px;line-height:1.2;text-decoration:none;text-transform:uppercase}.related-article__collection span{display:none}.related-articles__list.square-images .related-article{margin:0.75ex 0}.related-articles__list.square-images .related-article:hover{background-color:#f9f9f9}.related-articles__list.square-images.list-wide .related-article{margin:1.25ex 1.75ex}.related-articles__list.round-images a:hover{color:#000}.related-articles__list.round-images .related-article{margin:1.25ex 1.75ex}.related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__title{padding-left:10px}.related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__image{width:calc(90px + 15px);max-width:calc(90px + 15px);margin:0}.related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__image img{border-radius:50%}.related-articles__list.round-images.list-wide .related-article{margin:1.75ex 1.75ex} .vertical-story-card-item{cursor:pointer;font-family:'ReithSans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif;height:456px;margin:20px 10px;position:relative;width:297px}@media only screen and (max-width: 1007px){.vertical-story-card-item{width:276px}}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.vertical-story-card-item{width:276px}}.vertical-story-card-item img{width:100%}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box{background-color:#fff;bottom:0;box-shadow:0 0 5px #d8d8d8;display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:111px;justify-content:center;position:absolute;right:0;width:275px}@media only screen and (max-width: 1007px){.vertical-story-card-item__content-box{width:261px}}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box h1{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:0.75rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0;padding:0 10px;text-transform:uppercase}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box h2{color:#3d3d3d;font-size:1.3125rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.06px;line-height:42px;margin:0;padding:0 10px} .vertical-story-group{font-family:'ReithSans', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif;position:relative}.vertical-story-group img{object-fit:cover;width:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-container{height:370px;position:relative;width:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-container img{height:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-mask{background:linear-gradient(to right, rgba(0,0,0,0.6), rgba(0,0,0,0));bottom:0;left:0;position:absolute;right:0;top:0}.vertical-story-group__heading-container{color:#fff;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:80px;transform:translate(-50%, -50%)}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container{top:120px}}.vertical-story-group__heading-container button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none}.vertical-story-group__heading-container h1{font-size:0.9rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;margin-bottom:20px}.vertical-story-group__heading-container h2{font-size:2.1rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.25px;line-height:42px}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;left:0;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;position:absolute;right:0;top:65px;width:70%}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape{align-items:center;flex-direction:column}}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape h1{color:#fff;font-size:2.25rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:0.95px;margin:0}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;height:60px;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none;width:260px}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button{margin-top:50px}}.vertical-story-group__container{display:grid;grid-auto-rows:minmax(auto, auto);grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit, minmax(290px, 310px));height:100%;justify-content:center;justify-items:center;margin-top:-210px;width:100%}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__container{margin-top:-120px}}.beta-btn{background-color:#e6711b;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;height:25px;line-height:12px;padding:0 7px;width:66px}.beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow{cursor:pointer;transform:rotate(45deg)}.beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow--expanded{transform:rotate(-35deg)}.beta-btn__copy{color:#444;display:block;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0;line-height:17px;margin:16px auto;max-width:50%}.beta-btn__arrow{border:solid #fff;border-width:0 2px 2px 0;display:inline-block;padding:3px;position:relative;top:-1px;transform:rotate(-45deg);transition:0.4s}.beta-btn__arrow--expanded{transform:rotate(45deg)} .location-header{font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;text-transform:uppercase} .temperature-switcher{background:transparent;border:0;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;font-weight:300;white-space:nowrap}.temperature-switcher:active{color:currentColor}.temperature-switcher__active{font-weight:bold}.temperature-switcher span{margin:0 0.2ex} .day{--w-day-font-size: 14px;--w-day-temp-font-size: 20px;--w-day-temp-font-size-big: 32px;--w-day-temp-font-weight: 600;--w-day-name-font-weight: 500;align-items:center;color:#959595;display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-size:var(--w-day-font-size)}.day--desktop{--w-day-temp-font-size: 24px;--w-day-temp-font-weight: normal;--w-day-name-font-weight: 600}.day:first-of-type{color:#4b4b4b}.day__name{font-weight:var(--w-day-name-font-weight);line-height:1;margin-bottom:0.75em;text-transform:uppercase}.day__symbol-header{display:block;height:80px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:98px}.day__symbol{display:block;height:40px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:50px}.day--desktop .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-top:15px;width:70px}.day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size);font-weight:var(--w-day-temp-font-weight);line-height:1.2;margin-top:0.75em;text-transform:lowercase}.day__temp--header{color:#4b4b4b;font-size:32px;font-weight:bold}.day--mobile:first-of-type{display:flex;flex-flow:row wrap;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:3em}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-right:10px;overflow:visible;width:80px}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size-big);font-weight:bold;margin-top:0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location{font-size:120%;font-weight:500;margin:1em 0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{color:#959595}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location,.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{text-align:center;width:100%} .weather{--w-height: 50px;--w-wrapper-margin: 24px;--w-days-flexbasis: 33%;margin-bottom:2rem}.weather--desktop{--w-height: 80px;--w-wrapper-margin: 50px;--w-days-flexbasis: initial;margin-bottom:1rem}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .weather__days{flex-flow:row wrap}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .day:first-of-type{flex-basis:100%;width:auto}.weather__separator{border-right:1px solid #dcdcdc;display:block;height:var(--w-height)}.weather__days{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-basis:var(--w-days-flexbasis);justify-content:space-evenly;margin-top:2.5rem}.weather__days--desktop{margin-top:4rem}.weather__header{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-flow:column;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:var(--w-wrapper-margin)}.weather__header button{margin-top:1.5rem}.weather__header--desktop{position:relative}.weather__header--desktop button{margin:0;position:absolute;right:0} .destination-header{width:100%}.destination-header__container{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:center;min-height:380px;overflow:hidden;padding:0 16px;position:relative}.destination-header__image{height:100%;overflow:hidden;position:absolute;width:100%}.destination-header__image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.destination-header__text{color:#fff;font-size:28px;letter-spacing:-0.95px;line-height:37.4px;max-width:488px;padding:0 20px;position:relative;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;width:100%}.destination-header__text a{color:#fff;font-weight:300;text-decoration:none}.destination-header__text--desktop{font-size:36px}.destination-header__text-container{border-bottom:solid 1px #fff;display:inline-block;line-height:1.3;padding-bottom:17px}.destination-header__text-container--desktop{padding-bottom:0.75ex}.destination-header__link-page,.destination-header__advert{color:#fff;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0.5px;margin-top:20px;position:relative;text-align:center}.destination-header__link-page span,.destination-header__advert span{display:block;width:100%}.destination-header__link-page--desktop,.destination-header__advert--desktop{margin-top:40px}.destination-header__link-page{left:14px;margin:0;position:absolute;text-transform:uppercase;top:20px}.destination-header__link-page--desktop{left:25px;top:36px}.destination-header__background{background-image:radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5,36,53,0.37) 50%, rgba(0,0,0,0) 83%);height:100%;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.destination-header a{color:#fff;text-decoration:none} .image-card{position:relative}.image-card img{object-fit:cover;width:100%}.image-card__heading-container{color:#fff;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:80px;transform:translate(-50%, -50%)}.image-card__heading-container button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none}.image-card__heading-container h1{font-size:0.9rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container h2{font-size:2.1rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.25px;line-height:42px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container-landscape{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:50%;transform:translate(-50%, -50%);width:90%}.image-card__heading-container-landscape__mobile{align-items:center;flex-direction:column}.image-card__heading-container-landscape h1{color:#fff;font-size:2.25rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:0.95px;margin-top:0}.image-card__heading-container-landscape button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;height:60px;letter-spacing:0.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none;width:260px} .filter{display:inline-block;max-width:160px;position:relative}.filter__button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:16px;padding:16px;width:160px}.filter__content{background-color:#000;display:none;position:absolute;width:160px;z-index:1}.filter:focus .filter__content,.filter:hover .filter__content{display:block}.filter__content--open{display:block}.filter__content button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:block;font-style:italic;padding:12px 16px;text-decoration:none;width:100%}.filter__content button:hover{background-color:#494848} .callout-box-card{background-color:#eaeaea;color:#4a4a4a;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;text-align:left}.callout-box-card img{height:100%;width:100%}.callout-box-card__container{padding:0.2rem 1.5rem}.callout-box-card__container h3{font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:16px;margin:1rem 0;text-transform:uppercase}.callout-box-card__container h4{font-size:28px;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:35px}.callout-box-card__container .body{font-size:16px;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.12px;line-height:31px}.callout-box-card__container .body a{color:#4a4a4a;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none}.mapboxgl-map{font:12px/20px Helvetica Neue,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;overflow:hidden;position:relative;-webkit-tap-highlight-color:rgba(0,0,0,0)}.mapboxgl-canvas{position:absolute;left:0;top:0}.mapboxgl-map:-webkit-full-screen{width:100%;height:100%}.mapboxgl-canary{background-color:salmon}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive,.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass{cursor:-webkit-grab;cursor:-moz-grab;cursor:grab;-moz-user-select:none;-webkit-user-select:none;-ms-user-select:none;user-select:none}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive.mapboxgl-track-pointer{cursor:pointer}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive:active,.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass:active{cursor:-webkit-grabbing;cursor:-moz-grabbing;cursor:grabbing}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate,.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate .mapboxgl-canvas{touch-action:pan-x pan-y}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan,.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas{touch-action:pinch-zoom}.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan,.mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas{touch-action:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left,.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right,.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left,.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right{position:absolute;pointer-events:none;z-index:2}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left{top:0;left:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right{top:0;right:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left{bottom:0;left:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right{right:0;bottom:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl{clear:both;pointer-events:auto;transform:translate(0)}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:10px 0 0 10px;float:left}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:10px 10px 0 0;float:right}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:0 0 10px 10px;float:left}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right .mapboxgl-ctrl{margin:0 10px 10px 0;float:right}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group{border-radius:4px;background:#fff}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty){-moz-box-shadow:0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1);-webkit-box-shadow:0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1);box-shadow:0 0 0 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1)}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty){box-shadow:0 0 0 2px ButtonText}}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button{width:29px;height:29px;display:block;padding:0;outline:none;border:0;box-sizing:border-box;background-color:transparent;cursor:pointer}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button+button{border-top:1px solid #ddd}.mapboxgl-ctrl button .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{display:block;width:100%;height:100%;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-position:50%}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-color:transparent}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button+button{border-top:1px solid ButtonText}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button::-moz-focus-inner{border:0;padding:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus{box-shadow:0 0 2px 2px #0096ff}.mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled{cursor:not-allowed}.mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{opacity:.25}.mapboxgl-ctrl button:not(:disabled):hover{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.05)}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 2px #0096ff}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:not(:focus-visible){box-shadow:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:first-child{border-radius:4px 4px 0 0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:last-child{border-radius:0 0 4px 4px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:only-child{border-radius:inherit}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23999'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-waiting .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{-webkit-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite;-moz-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-o-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-ms-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23999'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23666'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@-webkit-keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{-webkit-transform:rotate(0deg)}to{-webkit-transform:rotate(1turn)}}@-moz-keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{-moz-transform:rotate(0deg)}to{-moz-transform:rotate(1turn)}}@-o-keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{-o-transform:rotate(0deg)}to{-o-transform:rotate(1turn)}}@-ms-keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{-ms-transform:rotate(0deg)}to{-ms-transform:rotate(1turn)}}@keyframes mapboxgl-spin{0%{transform:rotate(0deg)}to{transform:rotate(1turn)}}a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo{width:88px;height:23px;margin:0 0 -4px -4px;display:block;background-repeat:no-repeat;cursor:pointer;overflow:hidden;background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 11h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23V8.22c.01-.13.1-.22.23-.22h1.4c.13 0 .22.11.23.22v.68c.5-.68 1.3-1.09 2.16-1.1h.03c1.09 0 2.09.6 2.6 1.55.45-.95 1.4-1.55 2.44-1.56 1.62 0 2.93 1.25 2.9 2.78l.03 5.2c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.8 0-1.46.7-1.59 1.62l.01 4.68c0 .13-.11.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.85 0-1.54.79-1.6 1.8v4.5c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23zm53.615 0h-1.61c-.04 0-.08-.01-.12-.03-.09-.06-.13-.19-.06-.28l2.43-3.71-2.39-3.65a.213.213 0 01-.03-.12c0-.12.09-.21.21-.21h1.61c.13 0 .24.06.3.17l1.41 2.37 1.4-2.37a.34.34 0 01.3-.17h1.6c.04 0 .08.01.12.03.09.06.13.19.06.28l-2.37 3.65 2.43 3.7c0 .05.01.09.01.13 0 .12-.09.21-.21.21h-1.61c-.13 0-.24-.06-.3-.17l-1.44-2.42-1.44 2.42a.34.34 0 01-.3.17zm-7.12-1.49c-1.33 0-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51 0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.42-2.52 1.33 0 2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51 0 1.39-1.08 2.51-2.42 2.52zm-19.865 0c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.42-2.48v-.07c.02-1.38 1.09-2.49 2.4-2.49 1.32 0 2.41 1.12 2.41 2.51 0 1.39-1.07 2.52-2.39 2.53zm-8.11-2.48c-.01 1.37-1.09 2.47-2.41 2.47s-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51c0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.4-2.52 1.33 0 2.39 1.11 2.41 2.48l.02.08zm18.12 2.47c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.41-2.48v-.06c.02-1.38 1.09-2.48 2.41-2.48s2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51c0 1.39-1.09 2.51-2.42 2.51z'/%3E%3C/defs%3E%3Cmask id='c'%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg opacity='.3' stroke='%23000' stroke-width='3'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20220710005241im_/https://www.bbc.com/travel/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cg opacity='.9' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E")}a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo.mapboxgl-compact{width:23px}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo{background-color:transparent;background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 11h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23V8.22c.01-.13.1-.22.23-.22h1.4c.13 0 .22.11.23.22v.68c.5-.68 1.3-1.09 2.16-1.1h.03c1.09 0 2.09.6 2.6 1.55.45-.95 1.4-1.55 2.44-1.56 1.62 0 2.93 1.25 2.9 2.78l.03 5.2c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.8 0-1.46.7-1.59 1.62l.01 4.68c0 .13-.11.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.85 0-1.54.79-1.6 1.8v4.5c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23zm53.615 0h-1.61c-.04 0-.08-.01-.12-.03-.09-.06-.13-.19-.06-.28l2.43-3.71-2.39-3.65a.213.213 0 01-.03-.12c0-.12.09-.21.21-.21h1.61c.13 0 .24.06.3.17l1.41 2.37 1.4-2.37a.34.34 0 01.3-.17h1.6c.04 0 .08.01.12.03.09.06.13.19.06.28l-2.37 3.65 2.43 3.7c0 .05.01.09.01.13 0 .12-.09.21-.21.21h-1.61c-.13 0-.24-.06-.3-.17l-1.44-2.42-1.44 2.42a.34.34 0 01-.3.17zm-7.12-1.49c-1.33 0-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51 0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.42-2.52 1.33 0 2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51 0 1.39-1.08 2.51-2.42 2.52zm-19.865 0c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.42-2.48v-.07c.02-1.38 1.09-2.49 2.4-2.49 1.32 0 2.41 1.12 2.41 2.51 0 1.39-1.07 2.52-2.39 2.53zm-8.11-2.48c-.01 1.37-1.09 2.47-2.41 2.47s-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51c0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.4-2.52 1.33 0 2.39 1.11 2.41 2.48l.02.08zm18.12 2.47c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.41-2.48v-.06c.02-1.38 1.09-2.48 2.41-2.48s2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51c0 1.39-1.09 2.51-2.42 2.51z'/%3E%3C/defs%3E%3Cmask id='c'%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg stroke='%23000' stroke-width='3'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20220710005241im_/https://www.bbc.com/travel/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cg fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 11h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23V8.22c.01-.13.1-.22.23-.22h1.4c.13 0 .22.11.23.22v.68c.5-.68 1.3-1.09 2.16-1.1h.03c1.09 0 2.09.6 2.6 1.55.45-.95 1.4-1.55 2.44-1.56 1.62 0 2.93 1.25 2.9 2.78l.03 5.2c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.8 0-1.46.7-1.59 1.62l.01 4.68c0 .13-.11.23-.23.23h-1.41c-.13 0-.23-.11-.23-.23v-4.59c0-.98-.74-1.71-1.62-1.71-.85 0-1.54.79-1.6 1.8v4.5c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23zm53.615 0h-1.61c-.04 0-.08-.01-.12-.03-.09-.06-.13-.19-.06-.28l2.43-3.71-2.39-3.65a.213.213 0 01-.03-.12c0-.12.09-.21.21-.21h1.61c.13 0 .24.06.3.17l1.41 2.37 1.4-2.37a.34.34 0 01.3-.17h1.6c.04 0 .08.01.12.03.09.06.13.19.06.28l-2.37 3.65 2.43 3.7c0 .05.01.09.01.13 0 .12-.09.21-.21.21h-1.61c-.13 0-.24-.06-.3-.17l-1.44-2.42-1.44 2.42a.34.34 0 01-.3.17zm-7.12-1.49c-1.33 0-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51 0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.42-2.52 1.33 0 2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51 0 1.39-1.08 2.51-2.42 2.52zm-19.865 0c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.42-2.48v-.07c.02-1.38 1.09-2.49 2.4-2.49 1.32 0 2.41 1.12 2.41 2.51 0 1.39-1.07 2.52-2.39 2.53zm-8.11-2.48c-.01 1.37-1.09 2.47-2.41 2.47s-2.42-1.12-2.42-2.51c0-1.39 1.08-2.52 2.4-2.52 1.33 0 2.39 1.11 2.41 2.48l.02.08zm18.12 2.47c-1.32 0-2.39-1.11-2.41-2.48v-.06c.02-1.38 1.09-2.48 2.41-2.48s2.42 1.12 2.42 2.51c0 1.39-1.09 2.51-2.42 2.51z'/%3E%3C/defs%3E%3Cmask id='c'%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg stroke='%23fff' stroke-width='3' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20220710005241im_/https://www.bbc.com/travel/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib{padding:0 5px;background-color:rgba(255,255,255,0.5);margin:0}@media screen{.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact{min-height:20px;padding:0;margin:10px;position:relative;background-color:#fff;border-radius:3px 12px 12px 3px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover{padding:2px 24px 2px 4px;visibility:visible;margin-top:6px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover,.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover{padding:2px 4px 2px 24px;border-radius:12px 3px 3px 12px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib-inner{display:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib-inner{display:block}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{content:"";cursor:pointer;position:absolute;background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");background-color:rgba(255,255,255,0.5);width:24px;height:24px;box-sizing:border-box;border-radius:12px}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{bottom:0;right:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{top:0;right:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{top:0;left:0}.mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left>.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{bottom:0;left:0}}@media screen and (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media screen and (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib a{color:rgba(0,0,0,0.75);text-decoration:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib a:hover{color:inherit;text-decoration:underline}.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib .mapbox-improve-map{font-weight:700;margin-left:2px}.mapboxgl-attrib-empty{display:none}.mapboxgl-ctrl-scale{background-color:rgba(255,255,255,0.75);font-size:10px;border:2px solid #333;border-top:#333;padding:0 5px;color:#333;box-sizing:border-box}.mapboxgl-popup{position:absolute;top:0;left:0;display:-webkit-flex;display:flex;will-change:transform;pointer-events:none}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top,.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left,.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right{-webkit-flex-direction:column;flex-direction:column}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom,.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left,.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right{-webkit-flex-direction:column-reverse;flex-direction:column-reverse}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-left{-webkit-flex-direction:row;flex-direction:row}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-right{-webkit-flex-direction:row-reverse;flex-direction:row-reverse}.mapboxgl-popup-tip{width:0;height:0;border:10px solid transparent;z-index:1}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:center;align-self:center;border-top:none;border-bottom-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:flex-start;align-self:flex-start;border-top:none;border-left:none;border-bottom-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:flex-end;align-self:flex-end;border-top:none;border-right:none;border-bottom-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:center;align-self:center;border-bottom:none;border-top-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:flex-start;align-self:flex-start;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-top-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:flex-end;align-self:flex-end;border-bottom:none;border-right:none;border-top-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:center;align-self:center;border-left:none;border-right-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip{-webkit-align-self:center;align-self:center;border-right:none;border-left-color:#fff}.mapboxgl-popup-close-button{position:absolute;right:0;top:0;border:0;border-radius:0 3px 0 0;cursor:pointer;background-color:transparent}.mapboxgl-popup-close-button:hover{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,0.05)}.mapboxgl-popup-content{position:relative;background:#fff;border-radius:3px;box-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(0,0,0,0.1);padding:10px 10px 15px;pointer-events:auto}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-top-left-radius:0}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-top-right-radius:0}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-bottom-left-radius:0}.mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-bottom-right-radius:0}.mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer{display:none}.mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer *{pointer-events:none;user-select:none}.mapboxgl-map:hover .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer{display:flex}.mapboxgl-map:active .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer{display:none}.mapboxgl-marker{position:absolute;top:0;left:0;will-change:transform}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot,.mapboxgl-user-location-dot:before{background-color:#1da1f2;width:15px;height:15px;border-radius:50%}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot:before{content:"";position:absolute;-webkit-animation:mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite;-moz-animation:mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite;-ms-animation:mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite;animation:mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot:after{border-radius:50%;border:2px solid #fff;content:"";height:19px;left:-2px;position:absolute;top:-2px;width:19px;box-sizing:border-box;box-shadow:0 0 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.35)}@-webkit-keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse{0%{-webkit-transform:scale(1);opacity:1}70%{-webkit-transform:scale(3);opacity:0}to{-webkit-transform:scale(1);opacity:0}}@-ms-keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse{0%{-ms-transform:scale(1);opacity:1}70%{-ms-transform:scale(3);opacity:0}to{-ms-transform:scale(1);opacity:0}}@keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse{0%{transform:scale(1);opacity:1}70%{transform:scale(3);opacity:0}to{transform:scale(1);opacity:0}}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot-stale{background-color:#aaa}.mapboxgl-user-location-dot-stale:after{display:none}.mapboxgl-user-location-accuracy-circle{background-color:rgba(29,161,242,0.2);width:1px;height:1px;border-radius:100%}.mapboxgl-crosshair,.mapboxgl-crosshair .mapboxgl-interactive,.mapboxgl-crosshair .mapboxgl-interactive:active{cursor:crosshair}.mapboxgl-boxzoom{position:absolute;top:0;left:0;width:0;height:0;background:#fff;border:2px dotted #202020;opacity:.5}@media print{.mapbox-improve-map{display:none}}.styled-line{background-color:#8beed9;height:3px;width:72px}.styled-line--small{width:45px}.styled-line--medium{width:135px}.styled-line--large{height:1px;width:auto}.styled-line--height--large{height:5px}.styled-line--height--small{height:1px}.styled-line--xs-small{width:25px}.styled-line--worklife{background-color:#8beed9}.styled-line--future{background-color:#ffc857}.styled-line--culture{background-color:#472479}.styled-line--earth{background-color:#002856}.styled-line--travel{background-color:#002856}.styled-line--white{background-color:#fff}.styled-line--dark-grey{background-color:#6a6a6a}.styled-line--light-grey{background-color:#4b4b4b}.styled-line--grey{background-color:#dedede}.mapContainer .mapTitle{background:transparent;color:#fff;display:block;font-family:'curiousSans-Bold', Arial, sans-serif;font-size:0.9rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;line-height:1.1875em;margin-top:2%;min-width:25%;padding:2%;padding-bottom:0.375em;padding-left:8px;padding-right:16px;padding-top:0.375em;position:relative;text-align:center;z-index:100}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer .mapTitle{font-size:2.4em}}.mapContainer .styled-line{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto}.mapContainer button{background-color:rgba(255,255,255,0.9);border:0;box-sizing:border-box;cursor:pointer;display:block;height:60px;outline:none;padding:2px;width:60px}.mapContainer button .gelicon{color:#589e50;font-size:2.5em;vertical-align:middle}.mapContainer button:hover{background-color:#f2f2f2}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer button{height:50px;width:50px}.mapContainer button .gelicon{font-size:2em}}.mapContainer .navigationPanel{align-items:flex-end;bottom:0;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;left:50%;max-width:1200px;padding:10px;position:absolute;transform:translate(-50%, 0);width:100%}.mapContainer .zoomControls{background-color:#fff}.mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content{border-radius:0;box-shadow:0 3px 0 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.1) !important;cursor:default;font-family:'curiousSans-Bold', Arial, sans-serif;max-width:300px;padding:0 !important;text-align:left}.mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content img{width:300px}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content{max-width:190px}.mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content img{width:190px}}.mapContainer .mapboxgl-ctrl-logo{display:none !important}.mapContainer .map-marker svg{transition:all 0.1s ease-out}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer .map-marker svg{height:52px;transform:scale(0.75)}}.mapContainer .map-marker-active svg{transform:scale(1.3)}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer .map-marker-active svg{height:52px;transform:scale(1)}}.mapContainer__articleInfo{padding:0 18px}.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-vertical a{color:#4a4a4a;display:block;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;line-height:16px;margin-right:auto;margin-top:20px;text-decoration:none;text-transform:uppercase}.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title{font-size:18px;letter-spacing:-0.21px;line-height:30px;margin:0.725em 0}.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title a{color:rgba(46,46,46,0.85);text-decoration:none}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title{font-size:1.7em}}.mapContainer__articleInfo .article-author{color:#4a4a4a;display:block;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;letter-spacing:0.1px;line-height:35px;margin:1.45em 0;text-decoration:none}html,body{margin:0;padding:0}#root *,#root *::before,#root *::after{box-sizing:border-box}#root article,#root aside,#root figure,#root footer,#root header,#root nav,#root section{display:block}body{background:#fff}.app__body{display:flex;flex-direction:column;min-height:100vh;overflow:visible;position:relative}.app__domestic-disclaimer{bottom:0;position:fixed;width:100%;z-index:5000}.main{display:flex;flex:1 0 auto;flex-direction:column} .navigation{display:none;margin:auto;max-width:1248px;padding:4px 16px 0;position:relative;z-index:1000}@media (min-width: 1008px) and (max-width: 1279px){.navigation{max-width:976px}}@media (min-width: 600px){.navigation{padding:0 16px 1px}}@media (min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1007px){.navigation{max-width:990px}}@media (min-width: 300px) and (max-width: 399px){.navigation{padding:4px 8px}}.navigation>.nav-bar{background-color:unset;margin-top:1px}.navigation--display{display:block}.navigation-sticky--undocked{background-color:#fff;width:100%;z-index:10000}.StickyElement{position:relative;z-index:1501} .loader{display:none;height:100%;left:-99999px;opacity:0;position:absolute;top:0;transition:0.2s opacity;width:100%;z-index:1000}.loader--is-active{background:#fff;display:block;left:0;opacity:1}.loader__body{display:none;left:50%;position:fixed;top:50%;transform:translateX(-50%) translateY(-50%)}.loader__body--show-loader{display:block}.no-js .loader{display:none} .vertical-index{display:flex;flex:1 0 auto;flex-direction:column}.vertical-index__collection-swimlane{min-height:400px}.vertical-index .article-hero__content{margin-top:106px;padding-left:25px}.vertical-index__full-width-ad{background-color:#f1f1f1;padding:25px}.vertical-index__latest-articles{margin-top:35px}.vertical-index__latest-articles--mobile{margin-top:28px}.vertical-index__storyworks-section{margin:auto;max-width:1248px;padding:16px 0 0}@media (min-width: 1008px){.vertical-index__storyworks-section{padding:16px 16px 0}}@media (min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1007px){.vertical-index__storyworks-section{margin:auto;max-width:990px;padding:8px 16px 0}}@media (min-width: 1008px) and (max-width: 1279px){.vertical-index__storyworks-section{max-width:976px}}.vertical-index__storyworks-section>div>div.bbccom_visible>div{background:#f1f1f1;display:inline-block;padding:8px !important}.vertical-index__full-width-ad .bbccom_standard_slot,.vertical-index__hero-article-leaderboard .bbccom_standard_slot{background-color:transparent !important} .latest-articles__container{margin-bottom:24px}.latest-articles__container--tablet{margin-bottom:26px}.latest-articles__container--desktop{margin-bottom:32px}.latest-articles__articles{margin:auto}.latest-articles__articles--mobile-rectangle{margin:auto}.latest-articles__articles--tablet-rectangle{margin:auto 8px}.latest-articles__editor{color:#020202;font-stretch:normal;font-size:14px;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:2.92px;margin:0 0 22px}.latest-articles__editor--tablet{margin-bottom:32px}.latest-articles__editor--desktop{margin-bottom:36px}.latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu>div{padding:0 8px 8px !important}.latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu .bbccom_advert{background:#f1f1f1;padding:0 8px 8px}.latest-articles__rectangle .adslot--mpu .bbccom_advert>div{padding:0}.latest-articles__rectangle .bbccom_mpu_bottom{background:#f1f1f1;padding:0 8px 8px;padding-bottom:8px !important} </style> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241js_/https://cdn.optimizely.com/public/4621041136/s/features_prod.js"></script> </head> <body> <div id="cookiePrompt"></div> <noscript><p style="position: absolute; top: -999em"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://a1.api.bbc.co.uk/hit.xiti?&col=1&from=p&ptag=js&s=598253&p=travel.page&x2=[responsive]&x3=[bbc_website]&x4=[en]&x7=[index-home]&x8=[reverb-3.5.0-nojs]&x11=[FEATURE_SITES_GNL]&x12=[GNL_TRAVEL]" height="1" width="1" alt=""></p></noscript><style>body.dotcom .feature-ad { display: block; }</style><div id="bbccom_interstitial_ad" class="bbccom_display_none"></div><div id="bbccom_interstitial" class="bbccom_display_none"></div><div id="bbccom_wallpaper_ad" class="bbccom_display_none"></div><div id="bbccom_wallpaper" class="bbccom_display_none"></div> <div class="orbit-header-container" id="orbit-header"><header id="orb-banner" role="banner" aria-label="BBC-wide" class="orbit-header geo orbit-default orbit-language-en orbit-ux-v5"><div id="orb-header" class="orb-nav-pri orb-nav-pri-white orb-nav-empty" dir="ltr"><div class="orb-nav-pri-container b-r b-g-p"><div class="orb-nav-section orb-nav-blocks"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/" id="homepage-link"><svg width="112" height="32" viewbox="0 0 112 32" fill="none" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M8.99999 6.99999H15.7552C17.7458 6.99999 19.2878 7.39887 20.3811 8.19576C21.4741 8.99309 22.021 10.1385 22.021 11.6321C22.021 12.4881 21.8252 13.2308 21.4335 13.8601C21.0419 14.4894 20.4625 14.9891 19.6958 15.358C20.7563 15.7104 21.5682 16.2686 22.1311 17.0321C22.6941 17.796 22.9755 18.7232 22.9755 19.814C22.9755 20.8882 22.7021 21.8114 22.1555 22.5832C21.6087 23.3553 20.8296 23.9513 19.8182 24.3706C18.8062 24.7903 17.5909 25 16.1713 25H8.99999V6.99999ZM0 32H32V0H0V32ZM48.9999 6.99999H55.7551C57.7457 6.99999 59.2877 7.39887 60.3811 8.19576C61.4741 8.99309 62.0209 10.1385 62.0209 11.6321C62.0209 12.4881 61.8251 13.2308 61.4334 13.8601C61.0419 14.4894 60.4624 14.9891 59.6957 15.358C60.7562 15.7104 61.568 16.2686 62.1311 17.0321C62.694 17.796 62.9753 18.7232 62.9753 19.814C62.9753 20.8882 62.7019 21.8114 62.1554 22.5832C61.6087 23.3553 60.8297 23.9513 59.818 24.3706C58.8062 24.7903 57.5908 25 56.1712 25H48.9999V6.99999ZM39.9999 32H71.9999V0H39.9999V32ZM55.8775 17.2209H52.6469V22.0797H55.8286C56.9216 22.0797 57.7622 21.8743 58.3497 21.4629C58.9369 21.0518 59.2308 20.4602 59.2308 19.6881C59.2308 18.0435 58.1128 17.2209 55.8775 17.2209ZM55.4125 9.92026C57.3541 9.92026 58.3252 10.6338 58.3252 12.06C58.3252 12.7988 58.0763 13.3735 57.5787 13.7846C57.0808 14.196 56.3588 14.4014 55.4125 14.4014H52.6469V9.92026H55.4125ZM15.4126 9.92026C17.3542 9.92026 18.3253 10.6338 18.3253 12.06C18.3253 12.7988 18.0763 13.3735 17.5787 13.7846C17.0808 14.196 16.3588 14.4014 15.4126 14.4014H12.6469V9.92026H15.4126ZM15.8776 17.2209H12.6469V22.0797H15.8287C16.9217 22.0797 17.7623 21.8743 18.3497 21.4629C18.937 21.0518 19.2308 20.4602 19.2308 19.6881C19.2308 18.0435 18.1129 17.2209 15.8776 17.2209ZM100.391 24.8338C101.373 24.5956 102.237 24.2706 102.982 23.8592V20.4292C101.407 21.4001 99.6879 21.8851 97.8249 21.8851C96.6052 21.8851 95.5677 21.6549 94.7125 21.1942C93.857 20.7338 93.2048 20.0633 92.7562 19.1831C92.3071 18.3032 92.0829 17.238 92.0829 15.9876C92.0829 14.7377 92.3155 13.6766 92.7814 12.8045C93.2472 11.9327 93.9161 11.2665 94.7887 10.8058C95.6608 10.3454 96.7153 10.1148 97.9519 10.1148C98.8494 10.1148 99.705 10.2343 100.518 10.4726C101.331 10.7113 102.084 11.0609 102.779 11.5212V8.01737C102.017 7.62259 101.191 7.32259 100.302 7.1167C99.4128 6.91126 98.4683 6.80826 97.4691 6.80826C96.0292 6.80826 94.7292 7.02226 93.5691 7.44981C92.4088 7.87781 91.4136 8.4947 90.5839 9.30048C89.7537 10.1067 89.1187 11.0732 88.6783 12.1999C88.2377 13.3269 88.0176 14.5896 88.0176 15.9876C88.0176 17.4188 88.2295 18.7062 88.6529 19.8493C89.0761 20.9929 89.6859 21.9591 90.4822 22.7488C91.2782 23.5383 92.252 24.143 93.404 24.5624C94.5557 24.9819 95.8515 25.1917 97.2912 25.1917C98.375 25.1917 99.4085 25.0721 100.391 24.8338ZM112 32H79.9998V4.44444e-05H112V32Z"></svg><span class="orbit-button-text">Homepage</span></a></div><section><div class="orb-skip-links"><h2>Accessibility links</h2><ul><li><a href="#orb-modules"><span>Skip to content</span></a></li><li><a id="orb-accessibility-help" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/accessibility/"><span>Accessibility Help</span></a></li></ul></div></section><div class="orbit-header-left"><div class="orbit-module-idcta"><div id="idcta-statusbar" class="orbit-header-account" data-bbc-container="id-cta" data-bbc-event-type="click" data-bbc-ignore-views="1" data-bbc-metadata="{"id-cta-type": "statusbar-orbit"}" data-bbc-source="responsive_web" data-bbc-title="id-cta-sign-in"><a id="idcta-link" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://account.bbc.com/account"><span id="idcta-username">BBC Account</span></a></div><script type="text/javascript">require(['idcta/statusbar'], function (statusbar) {new statusbar.Statusbar({id: 'idcta-statusbar', publiclyCacheable: true});});</script></div><div class="orbit-module-notifications"><div class="orbit-module-notifications"><a class="orbit-header-notifications" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/notifications"><svg width="23" height="24" viewbox="0 0 23 24" fill="none" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M19.35 15.1883C19.8562 15.7235 20.6674 16.0612 21.7837 16.1996L23 16.3481V18.6667H0V16.3481L1.21634 16.1996C2.35241 16.0612 3.16834 15.7235 3.66602 15.1883C4.16276 14.6532 4.41113 13.8413 4.41113 12.7517V9.71992C4.41113 7.97614 4.87764 6.53868 5.81068 5.40938C6.74371 4.28008 8.06204 3.54752 9.76567 3.20983V0H13.2343V3.20983C14.938 3.54752 16.2553 4.28008 17.1893 5.40938C18.1224 6.53868 18.5889 7.97614 18.5889 9.71992V12.7517C18.5889 13.8413 18.8429 14.6532 19.35 15.1883ZM11.4996 24C10.4854 24 9.66944 23.6713 9.05088 23.0122C8.43232 22.353 8.12351 21.5721 8.12351 20.6667H14.8767C14.8767 21.5721 14.5669 22.353 13.9493 23.0122C13.3307 23.6713 12.5139 24 11.4996 24Z"></svg><span class="orbit-button-text">Notifications</span></a></div></div></div><nav class="orbit-header-links domestic"><ul><li class="orb-nav-home"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-news"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#B80000" d="M302,424h-68c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,422.552,232,422V306c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,304,234,304h68c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S304,305.448,304,306v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S302.552,424,302,424z"></path><path fill="#EB0000" d="M422,280H234c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,278.552,232,278V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,88,234,88h188c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v188c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,280,422,280z"></path><path fill="#D30000" d="M206,328H90c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S88,326.552,88,326V210c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S89.448,208,90,208h116c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S206.552,328,206,328z"></path></g></svg><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#FFD230" d="M90,184h332c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,182.552,424,182V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,89.448,88,90v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414S89.448,184,90,184z"></path><path fill="#FFA100" d="M306,424h116c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,422.552,424,422v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,328,422,328H306c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S304,329.448,304,330v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S305.448,424,306,424z"></path><path fill="#FFBA00" d="M210,304h212c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,302.552,424,302v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,208,422,208H210c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S209.448,304,210,304z"></path></g></svg><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#067EB3" d="M316.234,368.56l52.326-52.326c0.391-0.391,0.586-0.902,0.586-1.414c0-0.512-0.195-1.024-0.586-1.414 L252.594,197.44c-0.391-0.391-0.902-0.586-1.414-0.586s-1.024,0.195-1.414,0.586l-52.326,52.326 c-0.391,0.391-0.586,0.902-0.586,1.414s0.195,1.024,0.586,1.414L313.406,368.56c0.391,0.391,0.902,0.586,1.414,0.586 C315.332,369.146,315.844,368.95,316.234,368.56z"></path><path fill="#1969A6" d="M90,424h74c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S166,422.552,166,422V258c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S164.552,256,164,256H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,257.448,88,258v164c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S89.448,424,90,424z"></path><path fill="#149EDC" d="M258,166h164c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,164.552,424,164V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H258c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S256,89.448,256,90v74c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S257.448,166,258,166z"></path></g></svg><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-iplayer"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#DC2878" d="M182,358h-68c-0.55,0-1.05-0.225-1.412-0.587C112.225,357.05,112,356.55,112,356V156 c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414S113.448,154,114,154h68c0.55,0,1.05,0.225,1.413,0.587C183.775,154.95,184,155.45,184,156v200 c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414S182.552,358,182,358z"></path><path fill="#FF4C98" d="M372.106,248.243l34-58.89c0.275-0.476,0.33-1.022,0.197-1.517c-0.133-0.495-0.453-0.94-0.93-1.215 l-173.205-100c-0.478-0.276-1.023-0.332-1.518-0.2c-0.494,0.132-0.938,0.454-1.214,0.932l-34,58.89 c-0.275,0.476-0.33,1.022-0.197,1.517c0.133,0.495,0.453,0.94,0.93,1.215l173.205,100c0.478,0.276,1.023,0.332,1.518,0.2 C371.386,249.042,371.83,248.721,372.106,248.243z"></path><path fill="#AF0D5B" d="M372.106,263.757l34,58.89c0.275,0.476,0.33,1.022,0.197,1.517c-0.133,0.495-0.453,0.94-0.93,1.215 l-173.205,100c-0.478,0.276-1.023,0.332-1.518,0.2c-0.494-0.132-0.938-0.454-1.214-0.932l-34-58.89 c-0.275-0.476-0.33-1.022-0.197-1.517c0.133-0.495,0.453-0.94,0.93-1.215l173.205-100c0.478-0.276,1.023-0.332,1.518-0.2 C371.386,262.958,371.83,263.279,372.106,263.757z"></path></g></svg><span>iPlayer</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#A13104" d="M122,304H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,302.552,76,302v-92c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,208,78,208h44c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S124,209.448,124,210v92c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S122.552,304,122,304z"></path><path fill="#D24712" d="M230,376h-80c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S148,374.552,148,374V138c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S149.448,136,150,136h80c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S232,137.448,232,138v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S230.552,376,230,376z"></path><path fill="#FA6400" d="M422,424H258c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S256,422.552,256,422V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S257.448,88,258,88h164c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v332c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,424,422,424z"></path></g></svg><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#6100A8" d="M134,400H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,398.552,76,398V162c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,160,78,160h56c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S136,161.448,136,162v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S134.552,400,134,400z"></path><path fill="#7222C6" d="M254,400h-92c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S160,398.552,160,398V114c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S161.448,112,162,112h92c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S256,113.448,256,114v284c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S254.552,400,254,400z"></path><path fill="#963CE1" d="M444.77,373.863l-85.829,26.232c-0.529,0.162-1.073,0.093-1.526-0.148s-0.812-0.655-0.973-1.184 L273.901,126.63c-0.16-0.528-0.091-1.07,0.149-1.521c0.241-0.451,0.653-0.811,1.18-0.972l85.829-26.232 c0.529-0.162,1.073-0.093,1.526,0.148s0.812,0.655,0.973,1.184l82.542,272.133c0.16,0.528,0.091,1.07-0.149,1.521 C445.71,373.342,445.297,373.702,444.77,373.863z"></path></g></svg><span>Bitesize</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies"><span>CBeebies</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc"><span>CBBC</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-food"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food"><span>Food</span></a></li></ul></nav><nav class="orbit-header-links international"><ul><li class="orb-nav-homedotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-newsdotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/news"><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/sport"><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-reeldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/reel"><span>Reel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-worklife"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/worklife"><span>Worklife</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-traveldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span>Travel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-future"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/future"><span>Future</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-culture"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/culture"><span>Culture</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-tv"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/schedules/p00fzl9m"><span>TV</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/weather"><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><span>Sounds</span></a></li></ul></nav><div class="orbit-header-right"><a aria-label="All BBC destinations menu" class="orbit-header-more" href="#orbit-more-drawer" id="orbit-more-button"><svg class="orbit-header-more-desktop" width="20" height="4" viewbox="0 0 20 4" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g id="Overflow" transform="translate(-14.000000, -22.000000)"><path d="M18,22 L18,26 L14,26 L14,22 L18,22 Z M34,22 L34,26 L30,26 L30,22 L34,22 Z M26,22 L26,26 L22,26 L22,22 L26,22 Z" id="More"></path></g></svg><svg class="orbit-header-more-mobile" width="24" height="22" viewbox="0 0 20 19" fill="none" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M0 3.63393H20V0H0V3.63393ZM0 10.9018H20V7.26787H0V10.9018ZM0 18.5H20V14.8661H0V18.5Z"></svg><span class="orbit-button-text">More menu</span></a><div class="orb-nav-section orb-nav-search" role="search"> <a id="orbit-search-button" class="orbit-search__button" aria-expanded="false" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://search.bbc.co.uk/search?scope=all" title="Search BBC"><span class="ux-v4">Search BBC</span> <span class="ux-v5"><svg class="orbit-search-button-icon-only" width="28" height="29" viewbox="0 0 28 29" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><path d="M11,-0.0001 C17.0751322,-0.0001 22,4.92476775 22,10.9999 C22,13.5276632 21.1473793,15.8562862 19.7140404,17.7138664 L28,26 L25,29 L16.518046,20.5178339 C14.8960209,21.4602385 13.0110328,21.9999 11,21.9999 C4.92486775,21.9999 0,17.0750322 0,10.9999 C0,4.92476775 4.92486775,-0.0001 11,-0.0001 Z M11,2.5 C6.30557963,2.5 2.5,6.30557963 2.5,11 C2.5,15.6944204 6.30557963,19.5 11,19.5 C15.6944204,19.5 19.5,15.6944204 19.5,11 C19.5,6.30557963 15.6944204,2.5 11,2.5 Z"></path></svg><svg class="orbit-search-button-icon-with-text" width="15" height="16" viewbox="0 0 15 16" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><path d="M6,-5.32907052e-15 C9.3137085,-5.32907052e-15 12,2.6862915 12,6 C12,7.43892143 11.4934776,8.75953821 10.6490096,9.79327337 L15,14.24 L13.2782609,16 L8.72578477,11.3465317 C7.90789326,11.7643456 6.98146665,12 6,12 C2.6862915,12 -1.687539e-14,9.3137085 -1.687539e-14,6 C-1.687539e-14,2.6862915 2.6862915,-5.32907052e-15 6,-5.32907052e-15 Z M6,1.5 C3.51471863,1.5 1.5,3.51471863 1.5,6 C1.5,8.48528137 3.51471863,10.5 6,10.5 C8.48528137,10.5 10.5,8.48528137 10.5,6 C10.5,3.51471863 8.48528137,1.5 6,1.5 Z"></path></svg><span>Search BBC</span></span></a> </div></div></div></div></header><div id="orbit-drawer-container" class="orbit-drawer-container"></div><section class="orbit-more-drawer geo orbit-default orbit-language-en b-r b-g-p" id="orbit-more-drawer"><div class="orbit-more-drawer-content"><ul class="more-domestic"><li class="orb-nav-home"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-news"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#B80000" d="M302,424h-68c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,422.552,232,422V306c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,304,234,304h68c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S304,305.448,304,306v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S302.552,424,302,424z"></path><path fill="#EB0000" d="M422,280H234c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,278.552,232,278V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,88,234,88h188c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v188c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,280,422,280z"></path><path fill="#D30000" d="M206,328H90c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S88,326.552,88,326V210c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S89.448,208,90,208h116c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S206.552,328,206,328z"></path></g></svg><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#FFD230" d="M90,184h332c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,182.552,424,182V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,89.448,88,90v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414S89.448,184,90,184z"></path><path fill="#FFA100" d="M306,424h116c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,422.552,424,422v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,328,422,328H306c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S304,329.448,304,330v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S305.448,424,306,424z"></path><path fill="#FFBA00" d="M210,304h212c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,302.552,424,302v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,208,422,208H210c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S209.448,304,210,304z"></path></g></svg><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#067EB3" d="M316.234,368.56l52.326-52.326c0.391-0.391,0.586-0.902,0.586-1.414c0-0.512-0.195-1.024-0.586-1.414 L252.594,197.44c-0.391-0.391-0.902-0.586-1.414-0.586s-1.024,0.195-1.414,0.586l-52.326,52.326 c-0.391,0.391-0.586,0.902-0.586,1.414s0.195,1.024,0.586,1.414L313.406,368.56c0.391,0.391,0.902,0.586,1.414,0.586 C315.332,369.146,315.844,368.95,316.234,368.56z"></path><path fill="#1969A6" d="M90,424h74c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S166,422.552,166,422V258c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S164.552,256,164,256H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,257.448,88,258v164c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S89.448,424,90,424z"></path><path fill="#149EDC" d="M258,166h164c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,164.552,424,164V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H258c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S256,89.448,256,90v74c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S257.448,166,258,166z"></path></g></svg><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-iplayer"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#DC2878" d="M182,358h-68c-0.55,0-1.05-0.225-1.412-0.587C112.225,357.05,112,356.55,112,356V156 c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414S113.448,154,114,154h68c0.55,0,1.05,0.225,1.413,0.587C183.775,154.95,184,155.45,184,156v200 c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414S182.552,358,182,358z"></path><path fill="#FF4C98" d="M372.106,248.243l34-58.89c0.275-0.476,0.33-1.022,0.197-1.517c-0.133-0.495-0.453-0.94-0.93-1.215 l-173.205-100c-0.478-0.276-1.023-0.332-1.518-0.2c-0.494,0.132-0.938,0.454-1.214,0.932l-34,58.89 c-0.275,0.476-0.33,1.022-0.197,1.517c0.133,0.495,0.453,0.94,0.93,1.215l173.205,100c0.478,0.276,1.023,0.332,1.518,0.2 C371.386,249.042,371.83,248.721,372.106,248.243z"></path><path fill="#AF0D5B" d="M372.106,263.757l34,58.89c0.275,0.476,0.33,1.022,0.197,1.517c-0.133,0.495-0.453,0.94-0.93,1.215 l-173.205,100c-0.478,0.276-1.023,0.332-1.518,0.2c-0.494-0.132-0.938-0.454-1.214-0.932l-34-58.89 c-0.275-0.476-0.33-1.022-0.197-1.517c0.133-0.495,0.453-0.94,0.93-1.215l173.205-100c0.478-0.276,1.023-0.332,1.518-0.2 C371.386,262.958,371.83,263.279,372.106,263.757z"></path></g></svg><span>iPlayer</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#A13104" d="M122,304H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,302.552,76,302v-92c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,208,78,208h44c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S124,209.448,124,210v92c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S122.552,304,122,304z"></path><path fill="#D24712" d="M230,376h-80c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S148,374.552,148,374V138c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S149.448,136,150,136h80c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S232,137.448,232,138v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S230.552,376,230,376z"></path><path fill="#FA6400" d="M422,424H258c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S256,422.552,256,422V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S257.448,88,258,88h164c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v332c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,424,422,424z"></path></g></svg><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#6100A8" d="M134,400H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,398.552,76,398V162c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,160,78,160h56c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S136,161.448,136,162v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S134.552,400,134,400z"></path><path fill="#7222C6" d="M254,400h-92c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S160,398.552,160,398V114c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S161.448,112,162,112h92c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S256,113.448,256,114v284c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S254.552,400,254,400z"></path><path fill="#963CE1" d="M444.77,373.863l-85.829,26.232c-0.529,0.162-1.073,0.093-1.526-0.148s-0.812-0.655-0.973-1.184 L273.901,126.63c-0.16-0.528-0.091-1.07,0.149-1.521c0.241-0.451,0.653-0.811,1.18-0.972l85.829-26.232 c0.529-0.162,1.073-0.093,1.526,0.148s0.812,0.655,0.973,1.184l82.542,272.133c0.16,0.528,0.091,1.07-0.149,1.521 C445.71,373.342,445.297,373.702,444.77,373.863z"></path></g></svg><span>Bitesize</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies"><span>CBeebies</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc"><span>CBBC</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-food"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food"><span>Food</span></a></li></ul><ul class="more-international"><li class="orb-nav-homedotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-newsdotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/news"><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/sport"><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-reeldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/reel"><span>Reel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-worklife"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/worklife"><span>Worklife</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-traveldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span>Travel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-future"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/future"><span>Future</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-culture"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/culture"><span>Culture</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-tv"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/schedules/p00fzl9m"><span>TV</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/weather"><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><span>Sounds</span></a></li></ul><a href="#" class="orbit-more-drawer-close" role="button"><svg width="32" height="32" viewbox="0 0 28 28" fill="none" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M7.48651 5.71054L5.79834 7.39871L12.3428 14.0225L5.81992 20.6229L7.46434 22.2673L13.9778 15.6768L20.5123 22.2895H20.5135L22.2017 20.6007L15.6567 13.9781L22.1795 7.37712L20.5351 5.73271L14.0216 12.3232L7.48651 5.71054Z"></svg><span class="orbit-button-text">Close menu</span></a></div></section></div>  <div id="orb-modules"> <div id="root"><div id="ad-portal"></div><nav class="navigation navigation--display"><div class="nav-bar"><div class="nav-build-bar nav-build-bar--desktop"><div class="nav-build-bar__branding nav-build-bar__branding--desktop"><a class="branding branding--travel branding--large" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span class="branding__icon branding__icon--travel branding__icon--large"><svg version="1.1" id="Layer_1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 84.8 15.8" style="enable-background:new 0 0 84.8 15.8;" xml:space="preserve"><style type="text/css"> .st0{fill:#FFFFFF;} </style><g><path class="st0" d="M0,0h13.1v2.4H7.9v13.4H5.1V2.4H0V0z"></path><path class="st0" d="M18.1,9.7v6h-2.8V0h5.4c2,0,3.6,0.4,4.7,1.3c1.1,0.8,1.6,2,1.6,3.6c0,1-0.3,1.9-0.8,2.7 C25.7,8.3,25,8.9,24,9.2c0.7,1.1,1.4,2.1,2.1,3.2s1.3,2.2,2,3.3h-3.2c-0.6-1-1.2-2-1.8-3c-0.6-1-1.2-2-1.8-3c-0.2,0-0.4,0-0.6,0 H18.1z M18.1,2.2v5.3h2.5c1.2,0,2.1-0.2,2.8-0.6c0.6-0.4,0.9-1.1,0.9-2s-0.3-1.6-0.9-2s-1.5-0.6-2.7-0.6h-2.6V2.2z"></path><path class="st0" d="M42.2,15.8c-0.2-0.6-0.4-1.3-0.7-1.9c-0.2-0.6-0.5-1.3-0.7-1.9h-6.9c-0.2,0.6-0.5,1.3-0.7,1.9 c-0.2,0.6-0.4,1.3-0.7,1.9h-3c1-2.8,2-5.5,3.1-8.1C33.7,5,34.8,2.5,35.9,0h3c1.1,2.6,2.2,5.3,3.3,7.9s2.1,5.3,3.1,7.9H42.2z M34.7,9.6h5.2c-0.4-1.2-0.9-2.3-1.3-3.4c-0.4-1.1-0.9-2.3-1.3-3.4C36.9,3.9,36.4,5,36,6.2C35.6,7.3,35.2,8.5,34.7,9.6z"></path><path class="st0" d="M58.6,0c-1,2.6-2,5.3-3,7.9s-2.1,5.3-3.1,7.9h-3c-1.1-2.6-2.1-5.2-3.2-7.9c-1-2.6-2-5.3-3-7.9h3 c0.8,2.2,1.5,4.3,2.3,6.5s1.6,4.3,2.4,6.5c0.8-2.1,1.6-4.3,2.4-6.5c0.8-2.2,1.5-4.3,2.3-6.5H58.6z"></path><path class="st0" d="M60.7,0h10.6v2.4h-7.7v4.1h6.9v2.4h-6.9v4.6h8.2v2.4h-11L60.7,0L60.7,0z"></path><path class="st0" d="M74.3,0h2.8v13.4h7.8v2.4H74.3V0z"></path></g></svg></span></a></div><div id="nav-build-bar__links" class="nav-build-bar__links"><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/culture-identity"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Culture</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Food</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/discovery"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Discovery</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Adventure</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/destinations"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Destinations</p></a><a class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Collections</p></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/http://bbc.in/1JY27sX" class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id=""><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">About us</p></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://bbc.in/3zDE6sk" class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id=""><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">50 Reasons to Love the World</p></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://bbc.in/3jXnK59" class="nav-links__link" target="" rel="" id=""><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">Untold America</p></a></div><div class="nav-build-bar__open-nav"><div class="nav-build-bar__open-nav-button"><button class="open-nav" aria-label="Open more navigation" aria-haspopup="true" aria-expanded="false" id="open-nav"><div class="open-nav__label"><p class="nav-label b-reith-sans-font">More</p></div><div class="open-nav__icon"><div class="burger-nav gelicon--menu burger-nav--travel"></div></div></button></div></div></div></div></nav><div class="app__body"><div class="loader loader--is-active"><div class="loader__body loader__body--show-loader"><div class="loading-spinner"><span class="loading-spinner__image"><span class="spinner--travel"><svg class="spinner__image" viewbox="0 0 32 32" id="gel-icon-loading" width="100%" height="100%"><path d="M29.8 8l-3.5 2c1 1.8 1.6 3.8 1.6 6 0 6.6-5.4 12-12 12S4 22.6 4 16 9.4 4 16 4V0C7.2 0 0 7.2 0 16s7.2 16 16 16 16-7.2 16-16c0-2.9-.8-5.6-2.2-8z"></path></svg></span></span><span class="loading-spinner__message b-reith-sans-font">Loading</span></div></div></div><main class="main"><div class="vertical-index"><div class="vertical-index__article-hero"><div data-bbc-container="article-hero" data-bbc-title="A herb so spicy it anaesthetises" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"article-hero","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="article-hero b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 article-hero--gradient"><div class="article-hero__content"><div class="article-hero__content-labels"><div class="article-labels b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300"><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><span>Food & Hospitality</span><span class="article-labels__delimiter b-font-weight-300"> | </span></a><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/tags/food-drink">Food & Drink</a></div></div><div class="article-hero__content-title b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper"><div class="article-hero__title-text"> A herb so spicy it anaesthetises </div><hr class="article-hero__content-line"/></a></div><div class="article-hero__content-cta"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper">Read More<div class="article-hero__content-right-arrow"></div></a></div></div><button tabindex="0" class="article-hero__down-arrow"><img src="data:image/png;base64,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" alt="down-arrow"/></button><div class="article-hero__background"><picture><source media="(min-width:1265px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1665x965/p0ckgmsh.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1265px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1665x965/p0ckgmsh.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0ckgmsh.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0ckgmsh.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: rbiedermann/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0ckgmsh.jpg" alt="(Credit: rbiedermann/Alamy)" id="article-hero-img-js"/></picture></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__latest-articles"><div class="latest-articles__container latest-articles__rectangle latest-articles__container--desktop"><p class="latest-articles__editor b-reith-sans-font latest-articles__editor--desktop">Editor's Picks</p><div class="latest-articles__articles latest-articles__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group rectangle-story-group--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__hero rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles-container"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The isle that France and Spain share" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-group__article-hero"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle b-reith-sans-font article-title-card-rectangle--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__container article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__image article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cj91l5.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cj91l5.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cj91l5.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cj91l5.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91l5.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91l5.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cj91l5.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cj91l5.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: EQRoy/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91l5.jpg" alt="(Credit: EQRoy/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__overlay article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--travel"></span></a></div><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/places-that-dont-belong"><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--travel">Places That Don't Belong</span></a><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities"><h2 class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header b-font-weight-300 article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">The isle that France and Spain share</h2></a><p class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author b-font-family-serif article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet b-reith-sans-font">By Mike MacEacheran</p></div></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles rectangle-story-group__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="Britain's vanishing rare fruit" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cglg85.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cglg85.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cglg85.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cglg85.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cglg85.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cglg85.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cglg85.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cglg85.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="There's a renewed British passion for its rich larder of heritage apples (Credit: JohnGollop/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cglg85.jpg" alt="There's a renewed British passion for its rich larder of heritage apples (Credit: JohnGollop/Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/forgotten-foods"><span>Forgotten Foods</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance"><span>Britain's vanishing rare fruit</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Norman Miller</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="A mystery cult that predates Stonehenge" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0chjv3k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0chjv3k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0chjv3k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0chjv3k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chjv3k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chjv3k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0chjv3k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0chjv3k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Royal Commission for AlUla)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0chjv3k.jpg" alt="(Credit: Royal Commission for AlUla)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/unearthed"><span>Unearthed</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge"><span>A mystery cult that predates Stonehenge</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Demi Perera</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The crab dish with a shameful history" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cj8skv.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cj8skv.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cj8skv.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cj8skv.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj8skv.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj8skv.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cj8skv.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cj8skv.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Beach shacks serving locals specialties can be found all over Trinidad & Tobago (Credit: RGB Ventures/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj8skv.jpg" alt="Beach shacks serving locals specialties can be found all over Trinidad & Tobago (Credit: RGB Ventures/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/culinary-roots"><span>Culinary Roots</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish"><span>The crab dish with a shameful history</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Abigail Blasi</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__full-width-image-article"><div data-bbc-container="full-width-image-article" data-bbc-title="World's Table" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"full-width-image-article","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="full-width-image-article"><div class="full-width-image-article__container full-width-image-article__container--desktop"><div class="full-width-image-article__image"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09xq72k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09xq72k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xq72k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09xq72k.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p09xq72k.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze (Credit: thesomegirl/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p09xq72k.jpg" alt="Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze (Credit: thesomegirl/Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><div class="full-width-image-article__background"></div></div><div class="full-width-image-article__text"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://bbc.in/3BK2dXL" class="full-width-image-article__link" target="" rel="" id=""><span class="full-width-image-article-text__label b-reith-sans-font">Changing how the world thinks about food</span></a><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://bbc.in/3BK2dXL" class="full-width-image-article__link" target="" rel="" id=""><h2 class="full-width-image-article-text__header b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 full-width-image-article-text__header--desktop">World's Table</h2></a></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__latest-articles"><div class="latest-articles__container latest-articles__rectangle latest-articles__container--desktop"><p class="latest-articles__editor b-reith-sans-font latest-articles__editor--desktop">Hot Topics</p><div class="latest-articles__articles latest-articles__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group rectangle-story-group--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__hero rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles-container"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The UK village that you pay to enter" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-group__article-hero"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle b-reith-sans-font article-title-card-rectangle--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__container article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop"><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__image article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cg9tnk.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cg9tnk.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cg9tnk.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cg9tnk.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cg9tnk.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cg9tnk.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cg9tnk.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cg9tnk.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Image credit: Amanda Ruggeri/BBC)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cg9tnk.jpg" alt="(Image credit: Amanda Ruggeri/BBC)" id=""/></picture><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__overlay article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--travel"></span></a></div><div class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop"><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/discovery"><span class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--travel">Discovery</span></a><a class="article-title-card-rectangle__link article-title-card-rectangle__text-container article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen"><h2 class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header b-font-weight-300 article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300">The UK village that you pay to enter</h2></a><p class="article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author b-font-family-serif article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet b-reith-sans-font">By Amanda Ruggeri</p></div></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__articles rectangle-story-group__articles--desktop"><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="Why top chefs are leaving Paris" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cdr07y.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cdr07y.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cdr07y.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cdr07y.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cdr07y.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cdr07y.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cdr07y.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cdr07y.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Tarte aux mûres sauvages (wild blackberry tart) at D'Une Ile (Credit: Alexandre Guirkinger)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cdr07y.jpg" alt="Tarte aux mûres sauvages (wild blackberry tart) at D'Une Ile (Credit: Alexandre Guirkinger)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/worlds-table"><span>World's Table</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside"><span>Why top chefs are leaving Paris</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Emily Monaco</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="North America's 'Western Pompeii'" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cbr8ds.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cbr8ds.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cbr8ds.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cbr8ds.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cbr8ds.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cbr8ds.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cbr8ds.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cbr8ds.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: Paulacobleigh/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cbr8ds.jpg" alt="(Credit: Paulacobleigh/Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/discovery"><span>Discovery</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village"><span>North America's 'Western Pompeii'</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Brendan Sainsbury</span></div></div></div><div class="rectangle-story-group__article rectangle-story-group__article--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="latest-stories" data-bbc-title="The fruit that once fed mastodons" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"latest-stories","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--travel"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image:url(https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p0984kwj.png)"><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0c22djw.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0c22djw.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0c22djw.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0c22djw.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0c22djw.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0c22djw.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0c22djw.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0c22djw.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="The fruit's texture has been compared to custard, and the flavour is a combination of banana and mango. (Credit: krblokhin/Getty Images)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0c22djw.jpg" alt="The fruit's texture has been compared to custard, and the flavour is a combination of banana and mango. (Credit: krblokhin/Getty Images)" id=""/></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--travel"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--travel" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/forgotten-foods"><span>Forgotten Foods</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container"><a class="rectangle-story-item__title" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit"><span>The fruit that once fed mastodons</span></a></div><div><span class="rectangle-story-item__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--height--small"></div></span><span class="rectangle-story-item__author b-font-family-serif">By Jonathan Shipley</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="vertical-index__most-popular-container"><div class="most-popular"><div class="most-popular__inner most-popular__inner--desktop"><h2 class="most-popular__header b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-800">Most Popular</h2><div class="most-popular__items most-popular__items--desktop"><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="A 'blue hole' to the Northern Lights" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::0"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Adventure & Experience</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">1</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">A 'blue hole' to the Northern Lights</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The abandoned Soviet mining town in Norway's Arctic" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Adventure & Experience</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">2</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The abandoned Soviet mining town in Norway's Arctic</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The resurgence of Venice's prized dorona grape" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::2"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/forgotten-foods"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Forgotten Foods</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">3</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The resurgence of Venice's prized dorona grape</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="Bangladesh's fiery, inventive spin on rice" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::3"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Food & Hospitality</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">4</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">Bangladesh's fiery, inventive spin on rice</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The UK's haven for alternative thinking" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::4"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/green-cities"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Green Cities</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">5</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The UK's haven for alternative thinking</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The sweet flavours of Pinoy BBQ" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::5"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Food & Hospitality</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">6</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The sweet flavours of Pinoy BBQ</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="A gourmet revival of Sierra Leone's bold flavours" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::6"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/worlds-table"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">World's Table</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">7</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">A gourmet revival of Sierra Leone's bold flavours</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="The country calling 2022 the 'year of coffee'" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::7"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/food-hospitality"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Food & Hospitality</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">8</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">The country calling 2022 the 'year of coffee'</h2></a></div></div><div data-bbc-container="most-popular-article" data-bbc-title="Norway's creative, isolated Arctic hideaway" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"most-popular-article","CHD":"card::8"}" data-bbc-result="/travel/article/20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="most-popular-item most-popular-item--desktop"><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><p class="most-popular-item__label b-reith-sans-font">Adventure & Experience</p></a><div class="most-popular-item__content"><p class="most-popular-item__number b-font-family-serif">9</p><a class="" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway"><h2 class="most-popular-item__title b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 most-popular-item__title--desktop">Norway's creative, isolated Arctic hideaway</h2></a></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></main></div></div> <script>window.__PWA_PRELOADED_STATE__ = {"router":{"location":{"pathname":"\u002Ftravel\u002F","search":"","hash":"","state":undefined,"key":"qaoojk"},"action":"POP"},"config":{"version":"2.2.7","adsEnabled":false,"domain":"www.bbc.com","env":"live","clientApiUrl":"\u002Fdata","faqsUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffaqs","mapboxAccessToken":"pk.eyJ1IjoiYmJjd29ybGR3aWRlIiwiYSI6ImNpemp2dWZ0OTAwNGkyd3I0bHV6ems3eDMifQ.Vxn6FQ8xNwEltlVVvwpCjw","imageRecipe":{"recipePrefix":"live\u002F"},"analytics":{"ati":{"destination":"FEATURE_SITES_GNL","producer":"GNL_HOMEPAGE"},"chartbeat":{"uid":50924,"domain":"bbc.co.uk"}},"entityRouterProtocol":"https","swimlanes":true,"future":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@BBC_Future","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_FUTURE"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCFuture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCFuture"},"instagram":{"username":"bbcfuture_official","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbcfuture_official"}},"facebookPageIds":"279678448760878"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp077yzlp.jpg","title":"BBC Future Default Placeholder"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp077yzlp.jpg","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp08gp0tv.jpg"},"future-planet":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp0836dcl.jpg","collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtqy6.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09sbm5d.jpg","title":"Tag background image"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.future","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"future"},"metaData":{"description":"You’ll find stories on BBC Future on almost every topic that matters: psychology, food, climate change, health, social trends, technology and more.","titleDefault":"BBC Future","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_FUTURE"}}},"worklife":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@BBC_Worklife","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.twitter.com\u002FBBC_Worklife"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCWorklife","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCWorklife"},"instagram":{"username":"BBC_Worklife","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002FBBC_Worklife"}},"facebookPageIds":"133536249999517"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp07fsc3b.jpg","title":"image"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp07fsc3b.jpg","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp06dkks1.jpg"},"collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtqvk.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtqvk.jpg","title":"Tag background image"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.worklife","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"worklife"},"metaData":{"description":"The latest insight and advice from BBC Worklife: careers, milestones, leadership, personal finance, economy, future of work, wellness, professional life abroad - everything you need to upgrade yourself.","titleDefault":"BBC Worklife","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_CAPITAL"}},"swimlanes":[{"id":"office-space","title":"Office Space","backgroundImg":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp00sm03v.jpg"},{"id":"work-ethic","title":"Work Ethic","backgroundImg":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F976x549\u002Fp06yflr4.jpg"}]},"culture":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@BBC_Culture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_CULTURE"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCCulture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCCulture"},"instagram":{"username":"bbc_culture","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_culture"}},"facebookPageIds":"237388053065908"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp082b33v.png","title":"BBC Culture Default Placeholder"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp082b33v.png","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp08bmlwb.jpg","title":"Around the BBC background image"},"collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtrht.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09rtrht.jpg","title":"Tag background image"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.culture","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"culture"},"metaData":{"description":"Covering the latest in global arts and culture in all its forms, BBC Culture gives an international view of film and TV, books, art, music and style.","titleDefault":"BBC Culture","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_CULTURE"}}},"travel":{"relatedArticles":{"numberOfArticlesToDisplay":4},"social":{"profiles":{"twitter":{"username":"@bbc_travel","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_TRAVEL"},"facebook":{"username":"BBCTravel","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel"},"instagram":{"username":"bbc_travel","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel"}},"facebookPageIds":"147105585468223"},"newsletter":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F"},"images":{"default":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp0984kwj.png","title":"BBC Travel Default Placeholder"},"author":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp0984kwj.png","title":"author"},"aroundTheBBC":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp099tg7y.jpg","title":"Around the BBC background image"},"destination":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09f5vpy.jpg","title":"Destination background image"},"collection":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09gq1x8.jpg","title":"Collection background image"},"tag":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F960x540\u002Fp09gq221.jpg","title":"Tag background image"},"destinationImageCard":{"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F2000x540\u002Fp09f5vpy.jpg","title":"Destination Image Card Background"}},"advertising":{"topLevelZone":"bbccom.live.site.travel","defaultZoneId":"homepage","prefix":"travel"},"metaData":{"description":"The latest stories from BBC Travel on travel topics from all over the globe: culture, identity, food, history, heritage, archaeology, nature, sustainability, adventure, experiences, destinations and other themes that celebrate the people and places that make the world diverse and amazing.","titleDefault":"BBC Travel","titleErrorPage404":"Page Not Found","titleErrorPageOther":"Page Unavailable","titleOffline":"Offline Articles"},"analytics":{"ati":{"producer":"GNL_TRAVEL"}}},"moduleId":"travel","isUk":false,"ua":{"ua":"Amazon CloudFront","browser":{"name":undefined,"version":undefined,"major":undefined},"engine":{"name":undefined,"version":undefined},"os":{"name":undefined,"version":undefined},"device":{"vendor":undefined,"model":undefined,"type":undefined},"cpu":{"architecture":undefined}},"cacheExpiryMs":600000},"entities":{"authors":{"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjacob-mardell":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjacob-mardell","_id":"62c6da951f4b7b31d06456d3","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Jacob Mardell","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-07-07T13:07:16.704115Z","entity":"author","guid":"f7fda411-340b-4b79-9be2-67e955bc9dbe","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjacob-mardell","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-07T13:07:16.704115Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjacob-mardell","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396247},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran","_id":"62b420811f4b7b5d585884cd","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Mike MacEacheran","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:26:28.262365Z","entity":"author","guid":"b0441cca-befe-4564-aa60-a9a0d53861c2","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T10:08:16.545077Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396248},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnorman-miller":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnorman-miller","_id":"62b420711f4b7b4b8b007fc6","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Norman Miller","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:30:00.400422Z","entity":"author","guid":"132d35c4-5a8c-4d2e-b20d-20f2189c3e2e","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnorman-miller","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T10:12:46.212391Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnorman-miller","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396249},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdemi-perera":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdemi-perera","_id":"62b4206a1f4b7b32e63999d3","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Demi Perera","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:52:51.476718Z","entity":"author","guid":"a06c4805-667d-435e-a448-f8bf9f7cac60","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdemi-perera","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:25:40.228046Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdemi-perera","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396250},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fabigail-blasi":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fabigail-blasi","_id":"62b420671f4b7b4eed41aa83","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Abigail Blasi","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:29:57.701384Z","entity":"author","guid":"4ff57b95-d3c1-4b79-acde-20b999c06c36","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fabigail-blasi","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T08:57:00.868797Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fabigail-blasi","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396251},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famanda-ruggeri":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famanda-ruggeri","_id":"62b420671f4b7b32ef77a96e","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Amanda Ruggeri","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:33:21.643474Z","entity":"author","guid":"7abb1742-292c-4dbf-823a-8ddb39910193","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famanda-ruggeri","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:01:26.777969Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famanda-ruggeri","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femily-monaco":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femily-monaco","_id":"62b4206b1f4b7b4cae1d9296","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Emily Monaco","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:55:51.252365Z","entity":"author","guid":"4d0b8c4c-b91a-4a53-a177-fed62dae1de3","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femily-monaco","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:29:22.861362Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femily-monaco","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbrendan-sainsbury":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbrendan-sainsbury","_id":"62b420901f4b7b67463defa1","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Brendan Sainsbury","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:41:55.683795Z","entity":"author","guid":"ff86fa35-cb13-4c06-bce5-8e42351a0baf","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbrendan-sainsbury","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:12:13.067426Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbrendan-sainsbury","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjonathan-shipley":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjonathan-shipley","_id":"62b4206d1f4b7b524d4aa4c4","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Jonathan Shipley","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-04-19T20:39:01.774018Z","entity":"author","guid":"70abb245-89cc-434e-ad49-df1a882378ff","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjonathan-shipley","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-19T20:39:01.774018Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjonathan-shipley","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flola-akinmade-kerstrm":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flola-akinmade-kerstrm","_id":"62b420841f4b7b6071419ae5","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Lola Akinmade Åkerström","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:18:43.035299Z","entity":"author","guid":"9f4caba9-732c-4e6d-aecb-1b897d1bef16","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flola-akinmade-kerstrm","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:58:18.429823Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flola-akinmade-kerstrm","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396255},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanthony-ham":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanthony-ham","_id":"62b4207e1f4b7b5d4c347ea2","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Anthony Ham","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:37:53.330289Z","entity":"author","guid":"8ea125d9-dec3-4e0c-8cb8-e82d8016bba4","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanthony-ham","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:07:15.268382Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanthony-ham","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396256},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdaniel-stables":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdaniel-stables","_id":"62b4206a1f4b7b4ed418badb","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Daniel Stables","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:50:05.208212Z","entity":"author","guid":"d46152a8-d73a-4c8f-93cb-d6b3b99ea9c4","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdaniel-stables","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:22:26.062072Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdaniel-stables","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396259},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Faysha-imtiaz":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Faysha-imtiaz","_id":"62b420691f4b7b32e63999d1","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Aysha Imtiaz","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T14:39:04.874941Z","entity":"author","guid":"0fdc83b3-b88c-421e-8656-eee4b79d4cab","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Faysha-imtiaz","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T09:08:40.326701Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Faysha-imtiaz","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396258},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-zubiri":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-zubiri","_id":"62b420721f4b7b4ca52914a8","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Stephanie Zubiri","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2021-09-20T14:22:14.285847Z","entity":"author","guid":"3488f970-c8ac-4a5c-b68e-7ae7c68103e2","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-zubiri","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T10:33:02.782729Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-zubiri","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396260},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famelia-martyn-hemphill--mariama-wurie":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famelia-martyn-hemphill--mariama-wurie","_id":"62b420a61f4b7b6071419b64","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Amelia Martyn-Hemphill & Mariama Wurie","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-06-07T18:44:05.08541Z","entity":"author","guid":"1d1d952f-292f-4ec5-add3-b1b3b5478690","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famelia-martyn-hemphill--mariama-wurie","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-07T18:44:05.08541Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famelia-martyn-hemphill--mariama-wurie","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Frobyn-huang-and-matthew-reichel":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Frobyn-huang-and-matthew-reichel","_id":"62b420821f4b7b4ed6687254","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Robyn Huang & Matthew Reichel","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-06-08T17:49:34.262198Z","entity":"author","guid":"c02fbbad-6a4d-4c18-8b83-247302ce23a6","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Frobyn-huang-and-matthew-reichel","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-08T17:50:24.20308Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Frobyn-huang-and-matthew-reichel","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262},"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flaura-hall":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:author:travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flaura-hall","_id":"62b420811f4b7b5cec653c2d","assetImage":null,"description":"","email":"","links":[{"Label":"","Url":""}],"name":"Laura Hall","primaryVertical":"travel","twitter":"","creationDateTime":"2022-06-03T05:17:12.183051Z","entity":"author","guid":"6da38e61-fe03-4c7f-b622-e7eb6e13143e","id":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flaura-hall","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-03T05:17:12.183051Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flaura-hall","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396263}},"collections":{"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","_id":"62b4207b1f4b7b571e37def3","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Immerse yourself in local food, drink, traditions and customs, while experiencing a shared humanity.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Food & Hospitality","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Food & Hospitality","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:57:50.540524Z","entity":"collection","guid":"e61b2885-5eb8-45f1-a6eb-96b493b11e7f","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:52:25.529035Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","_id":"62b4207b1f4b7b573218fc52","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"We delve into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Places That Don't Belong","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Places That Don't Belong","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:59:10.060023Z","entity":"collection","guid":"e69b895a-d1bb-4068-ae36-59f622cb6516","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:53:56.665784Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1657413396248},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","_id":"62b4207c1f4b7b4ed668724f","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Journey to all corners of the planet to uncover secret worlds, lost treasures and extraordinary locations – and meet the people along the way.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Adventure & Experience","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Adventure & Experience","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:56:48.853744Z","entity":"collection","guid":"7a457878-4baf-4a02-82b9-0b3f407bd073","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:48:52.772915Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1657413396263},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","_id":"62b4207c1f4b7b5be91850e1","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Learn where there's hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life through cooking and cultivation.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Forgotten Foods","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Forgotten Foods","creationDateTime":"2022-03-17T19:03:38.714836Z","entity":"collection","guid":"dca8d01c-e559-4723-9d78-4685b64af0ff","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-29T15:15:56.302477Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1657413396258},"travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","_id":"62b4207d1f4b7b57540fb701","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"premium-collection","description":"BBC.com \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze","isPremiumCollection":true,"moreArticles":null,"name":"World's Table","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"E85A24","title":"World's Table","creationDateTime":"2021-10-04T14:37:13.413699Z","entity":"collection","guid":"22b9e025-56f1-4361-8866-c8e88e53347d","id":"travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-12T11:33:55.483668Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Funearthed":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Funearthed","_id":"62b4207c1f4b7b571e37def7","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"We search the world for newly discovered archaeological sites and other hidden wonders that few people have ever seen.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Unearthed","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Unearthed","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T16:00:35.496453Z","entity":"collection","guid":"f41f608d-a703-4339-ab54-faed077c371d","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Funearthed","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:55:41.414517Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Funearthed","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1657413396250},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery","_id":"62b4207c1f4b7b5bf114ffc1","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"See where old and new intersect, often with technology and innovation, taking travellers to places they’ve never experienced before.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Discovery","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Discovery","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:57:38.257106Z","entity":"collection","guid":"2bde5558-58fd-40d9-acb8-3f69d31e26d2","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:49:55.231739Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots","_id":"62b4207c1f4b7b5bf231d251","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Connect to the rare local foods and dishes that are woven into a place's heritage.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Culinary Roots","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Culinary Roots","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:57:22.051797Z","entity":"collection","guid":"51bd3fe3-fcbc-4513-9193-7b2ec1deff37","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:49:37.258813Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1657413396251},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fasia-fast-food":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fasia-fast-food","_id":"62c2743f1f4b7b15887b2690","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Uncover dishes that are imbued with cultural significance and flavoured with a sprinkling of stories.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Asia Fast Food","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Asia Fast Food","creationDateTime":"2022-07-04T05:01:34.485829Z","entity":"collection","guid":"c8a4cc03-94f2-4b6b-acd8-dce361a966d6","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fasia-fast-food","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-04T05:01:34.485829Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fasia-fast-food","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1657413396260},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgreen-cities":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgreen-cities","_id":"62b4207c1f4b7b4ed668724c","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Green Cities is a BBC Travel series that profiles innovative cities and towns around the world that are making bold strides towards a more sustainable future.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Green Cities","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Green Cities","creationDateTime":"2022-03-17T04:07:12.828679Z","entity":"collection","guid":"276d79a9-c17e-4f3e-ae17-7d62c2ae42a9","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgreen-cities","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-17T04:07:12.828679Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgreen-cities","image":[],"cacheLastUpdated":1657413396259},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens","_id":"62b4207c1f4b7b32e63999f0","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Learn about the latest destinations opening their borders and explore the exciting things travellers can do there – safely and sustainably.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"As the World Opens","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"As the World Opens","creationDateTime":"2022-03-29T16:11:02.829341Z","entity":"collection","guid":"2db5e3d8-8ac2-4731-a609-a20d42b39ec1","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-30T12:03:08.196053Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens","image":["p0by5vj0"],"cacheLastUpdated":1657413396264},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","_id":"62b4207c1f4b7b32e54957f4","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Celebrate the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and be reminded that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"The Open Road","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"The Open Road","creationDateTime":"2022-02-18T17:00:25.71395Z","entity":"collection","guid":"fbda3990-fef0-4b0c-a357-3a767de76d98","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-05T17:08:16.806302Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","image":["p0bpz96n"],"cacheLastUpdated":1657413396264},"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:collection:travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","_id":"62b4207c1f4b7b5bf114ffc2","brandingLogo":"","campaign":null,"collectionType":"column","description":"Ancient Engineering Marvels is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.","imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Indian women carrying water from stepwell near Jaipur, Rajasthan, India","isPremiumCollection":false,"moreArticles":null,"name":"Ancient Engineering Marvels","partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","theme":"","title":"Ancient Engineering Marvels","creationDateTime":"2021-07-16T02:28:12.584423Z","entity":"collection","guid":"19882d18-7b3e-4707-9881-6c30dc4841f0","id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T19:49:03.496805Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","image":["p09pldr6"],"cacheLastUpdated":1657413396264}},"images":{"p0ckgmn3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckgmn3","_id":"62c6def91f4b7b31d06456d8","copyright":"John Michaels\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3840,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fgm\u002Fp0ckgmn3.jpg","sourceWidth":3840,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: John Michaels\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Tacacá, a spicy, sour soup from the Brazilian Amazon, is made from cassava, prawns and jambu leaf (Credit: John Michaels\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Bowl of tacaca spicy soup with prawns floating on top","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckgmn3.jpg","title":"Tacacá, a spicy, sour soup from the Brazilian Amazon, is made from cassava, prawns and jambu leaf (Credit: John Michaels\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckgmn3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckgmn3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396247},"p0ckgm8m":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckgm8m","_id":"62c6def91f4b7b31d06456d9","copyright":"Jacob Mardell","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3780,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fgm\u002Fp0ckgm8m.jpg","sourceWidth":3024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jacob Mardell)","synopsisMedium":"In recent years, jambu-infused cachaça has introduced the herb to a national audience (Credit: Jacob Mardell)","synopsisShort":"Bottle of JOS brand jambu cachaça and two other cachacas","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckgm8m.jpg","title":"In recent years, jambu-infused cachaça has introduced the herb to a national audience (Credit: Jacob Mardell)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckgm8m","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckgm8m.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396247},"p0ckglw5":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckglw5","_id":"62c6def91f4b7b31d06456da","copyright":"Mapa da Cachaça","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3159,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fgl\u002Fp0ckglw5.jpg","sourceWidth":5616,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mapa da Cachaça)","synopsisMedium":"Jambu's mouth-numbing effects has made it a popular cocktail ingredient in Sao Paulo and beyond (Credit: Mapa da Cachaça)","synopsisShort":"Orange cocktail in a glass on wooden table","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckglw5.jpg","title":"Jambu's mouth-numbing effects has made it a popular cocktail ingredient in Sao Paulo and beyond (Credit: Mapa da Cachaça)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckglw5","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckglw5.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396247},"p0ckglnl":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckglnl","_id":"62c6def91f4b7b31d20cbb79","copyright":"Jacob Mardell","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1536,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fgl\u002Fp0ckglnl.jpg","sourceWidth":1536,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jacob Mardell)","synopsisMedium":"Sabor De Fazenda, a plant nursery in São Paulo, is a good place to source PANCs (Credit: Jacob Mardell)","synopsisShort":"PANC section at Sabor De Fazenda","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckglnl.jpg","title":"Sabor De Fazenda, a plant nursery in São Paulo, is a good place to source PANCs (Credit: Jacob Mardell)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckglnl","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckglnl.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396247},"p0ckgmsh":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ckgmsh","_id":"62c6def91f4b7b31d20cbb7a","copyright":"rbiedermann\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2270,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fck\u002Fgm\u002Fp0ckgmsh.jpg","sourceWidth":4035,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: rbiedermann\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: rbiedermann\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Yellow jambu flowers and green leaves","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckgmsh.jpg","title":"(Credit: rbiedermann\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ckgmsh","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ckgmsh.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396247},"p0cj91kl":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj91kl","_id":"62be96fd1f4b7b3967796680","copyright":"Agefotostock\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2859,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F91\u002Fp0cj91kl.jpg","sourceWidth":5083,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Agefotostock\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Pheasant Island is located on the Bidasoa River between Hendaye, France, and Irun, Spain (Credit: Agefotostock\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Aerial view of Irun, Hendaye, Hendaye, France , and Pheasant Island in between","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91kl.jpg","title":"Pheasant Island is located on the Bidasoa River between Hendaye, France, and Irun, Spain","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj91kl","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91kl.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396248},"p0cj91j9":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj91j9","_id":"62be96fd1f4b7b3516482cb8","copyright":"Mike MacEacheran","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3648,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F91\u002Fp0cj91j9.jpg","sourceWidth":3648,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mike MacEacheran)","synopsisMedium":"At the centre of the island, a monument commemorates the meeting where the Treaty of the Pyrenees was negotiated in 1659 (Credit: Mike MacEacheran)","synopsisShort":"Monolith on Pheasant Island","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91j9.jpg","title":"At the centre of the island, a monument commemorates the meeting where the Treaty of the Pyrenees was negotiated","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj91j9","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91j9.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396248},"p0cj91hz":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj91hz","_id":"62be96fd1f4b7b3516482cb9","copyright":"Prisma Archivo\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2857,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F91\u002Fp0cj91hz.jpg","sourceWidth":5079,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Prisma Archivo\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The Treaty of the Pyrenees peace accord, which was negotiated here, established the border between the two countries (Credit: Prisma Archivo\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Archive picture of signing of The Treaty of the Pyrenees peace accord","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91hz.jpg","title":"The Treaty of the Pyrenees peace accord, which was negotiated here, established the border between the two countries","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj91hz","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91hz.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396248},"p0cj91hg":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj91hg","_id":"62be96fd1f4b7b3516482cba","copyright":"EQRoy\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4473,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F91\u002Fp0cj91hg.jpg","sourceWidth":7952,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: EQRoy\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The island is only opened to the public on one of the bi-annual handover days or as part of heritage tour (Credit: EQRoy\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Pheasant Island on the Bidasoa River between Hendaye and Irun","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91hg.jpg","title":"The island is only opened to the public on one of the bi-annual handover days or as part of heritage tour","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj91hg","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91hg.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396248},"p0cj91l5":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj91l5","_id":"62be96fc1f4b7b3516482cb7","copyright":"EQRoy\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4473,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F91\u002Fp0cj91l5.jpg","sourceWidth":7952,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: EQRoy\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: EQRoy\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Pheasant Island on the Bidasoa River between Hendaye and Irun","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91l5.jpg","title":"(Credit: EQRoy\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj91l5","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj91l5.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396248},"p0cglg16":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cglg16","_id":"62b465271f4b7b6f6e3e6394","copyright":"Norman Miller","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Flg\u002Fp0cglg16.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Norman Miller)","synopsisMedium":"Bryn Thomas from Brighton Permaculture Trust has documented how new orchards provide pleasure and learning for local people (Credit: Norman Miller)","synopsisShort":"Bryn Thomas (Brighton Permaculture Trust) on how orchards provide pleasure and learning","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg16.jpg","title":"Bryn Thomas from Brighton Permaculture Trust has documented how new orchards provide pleasure and learning for local people","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cglg16","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg16.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396249},"p0cglg4p":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cglg4p","_id":"62b465271f4b7b6f6e3e6396","copyright":"Artistraw Cidery and Orchard","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Flg\u002Fp0cglg4p.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Artistraw Cidery and Orchard)","synopsisMedium":"Activists are planting British heritage varieties of apples in community plots (Credit: Artistraw Cidery and Orchard)","synopsisShort":"Activists are planting British heritage varieties of apples in community plots","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg4p.jpg","title":"Activists are planting British heritage varieties of apples in community plots","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cglg4p","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg4p.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396249},"p0cglg0f":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cglg0f","_id":"62b465271f4b7b6f700b8683","copyright":"Norman Miller","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Flg\u002Fp0cglg0f.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Norman Miller)","synopsisMedium":"Apple juice is on display at Brighton Permaculture Trust (Credit: Norman Miller)","synopsisShort":"Apple juice is on display at Brighton Permaculture Trust","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg0f.jpg","title":"Apple juice is on display at Brighton Permaculture Trust","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cglg0f","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg0f.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396249},"p0cglgfl":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cglgfl","_id":"62b465291f4b7b6f700b8684","copyright":"Tim Walton\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1920,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Flg\u002Fp0cglgfl.jpg","sourceWidth":1536,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Tim Walton\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"The diversity of apples means there is real opportunity for an apple grower to create their own apple to name (Credit: Tim Walton\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"There is real opportunity for an apple grower to create their own apple to name","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglgfl.jpg","title":"The diversity of apples means there is real opportunity for an apple grower to create their own apple to name","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cglgfl","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglgfl.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396249},"p0cglgs9":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cglgs9","_id":"62b465271f4b7b6f6e3e6395","copyright":"Maurice Crooks\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Flg\u002Fp0cglgs9.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Maurice Crooks\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"There are currently around 2,200 species of apple recorded in Britain's National Fruit Collection at Brogdale Farm in Kent (Credit: Maurice Crooks\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"There are around 2,200 species of apple recorded in Britain's National Fruit Collection","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglgs9.jpg","title":"There are currently around 2,200 species of apple recorded in Britain's National Fruit Collection at Brogdale Farm in Kent","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cglgs9","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglgs9.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396249},"p0cglg85":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cglg85","_id":"62b465271f4b7b6f7e4ed461","copyright":"JohnGollop\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Flg\u002Fp0cglg85.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: JohnGollop\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"There's a renewed British passion for its rich larder of heritage apples (Credit: JohnGollop\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"There's a renewed British passion for its rich larder of heritage apples","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg85.jpg","title":"There's a renewed British passion for its rich larder of heritage apples","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cglg85","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cglg85.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396249},"p0chjv0z":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chjv0z","_id":"62babe8f1f4b7b54ca3a3c29","copyright":"Tuul & Bruno Morandi\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1194,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Fjv\u002Fp0chjv0z.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Tuul & Bruno Morandi\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The Nabataean city of Hegra was Saudi Arabia’s first Unesco World Heritage Site (Credit: Tuul & Bruno Morandi\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Nabatean Tomb In Hegra Archaeologic Site, AlUla","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chjv0z.jpg","title":"The Nabataean city of Hegra was Saudi Arabia’s first Unesco World Heritage Site (Credit: Tuul & Bruno Morandi\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chjv0z","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chjv0z.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396250},"p0chjtrg":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chjtrg","_id":"62babe901f4b7b1ae621806b","copyright":"Demi Perera","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1500,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Fjt\u002Fp0chjtrg.jpg","sourceWidth":1200,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Demi Perera)","synopsisMedium":"Archaeologist Jane McMahon has been working in AlUla since 2018 (Credit: Demi Perera)","synopsisShort":"Archaeologist Jane McMahon standing on rocks in AlUla, Saudi Arabia","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chjtrg.jpg","title":"Archaeologist Jane McMahon has been working in AlUla since 2018 (Credit: Demi Perera)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chjtrg","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chjtrg.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396250},"p0chjtkq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chjtkq","_id":"62babe901f4b7b1ae621806a","copyright":"Royal Commission for AlUla","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3375,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Fjt\u002Fp0chjtkq.jpg","sourceWidth":6000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Royal Commission for AlUla)","synopsisMedium":"First recorded in the 1960s, mustatil are monumental rectangular stone structures that date to the Neolithic period (Credit: Royal Commission for AlUla)","synopsisShort":"Mustatil in AlUla, Saudi arabia, from the air","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chjtkq.jpg","title":"First recorded in the 1960s, mustatil are monumental rectangular stone structures that date to the Neolithic period","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chjtkq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chjtkq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396250},"p0chjtfv":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chjtfv","_id":"62babe8f1f4b7b54ca3a3c2a","copyright":"Royal Commission for AlUla","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":720,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Fjt\u002Fp0chjtfv.jpg","sourceWidth":1280,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Royal Commission for AlUla)","synopsisMedium":"McMahon and her team believe that mustatil may be evidence of a highly organised, cultic society (Credit: Royal Commission for AlUla)","synopsisShort":"Mustatil on cliffs in AlUla, Saudi Arabia","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chjtfv.jpg","title":"McMahon and her team believe that mustatil may be evidence of a highly organised, cultic society","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chjtfv","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chjtfv.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396250},"p0chjv3k":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0chjv3k","_id":"62babe8f1f4b7b54ca3a3c28","copyright":"Royal Commission for AlUla","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3384,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fch\u002Fjv\u002Fp0chjv3k.jpg","sourceWidth":6016,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Royal Commission for AlUla)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Royal Commission for AlUla)","synopsisShort":"Rock outline of mustatil in AlUla, Saudi Arabia","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chjv3k.jpg","title":"(Credit: Royal Commission for AlUla)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0chjv3k","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0chjv3k.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396250},"p0cj8sxr":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj8sxr","_id":"62bed6771f4b7b624411651c","copyright":"Renee Robley","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4320,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F8s\u002Fp0cj8sxr.jpg","sourceWidth":3456,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Renee Robley)","synopsisMedium":"Crab and dumpling, Tobago's signature dish, is sweet, salty, spicy – and messy to eat (Credit: Renee Robley)","synopsisShort":"Crab and dumpling on a silver plate on blue table","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8sxr.jpg","title":"Crab and dumpling, Tobago's signature dish, is sweet, salty, spicy – and messy to eat","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj8sxr","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8sxr.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396251},"p0cj8t9p":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj8t9p","_id":"62bed6761f4b7b624411651b","copyright":"DebraLee Wiseberg\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1196,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F8t\u002Fp0cj8t9p.jpg","sourceWidth":2126,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: DebraLee Wiseberg\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The manicou crabs used in the dish are caught in Tobago's forest, which is the world's oldest protected rainforest (Credit: DebraLee Wiseberg\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Waterfalls and mountain stream in Tobago rainforest","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8t9p.jpg","title":"The manicou crabs used in the dish are caught in Tobago's forest, which is the world's oldest protected rainforest","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj8t9p","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8t9p.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396251},"p0cj8sqk":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj8sqk","_id":"62bed6771f4b7b624411651d","copyright":"Westend61\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2897,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F8s\u002Fp0cj8sqk.jpg","sourceWidth":5150,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Westend61\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Westend61\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Aerial view of Castara bay against blue sky and blue sea, Tobago","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8sqk.jpg","title":"(Credit: Westend61\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj8sqk","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8sqk.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396251},"p0cj8sf2":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj8sf2","_id":"62bed6771f4b7b1e5551d41f","copyright":"dbtravel\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2869,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F8s\u002Fp0cj8sf2.jpg","sourceWidth":5100,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: dbtravel\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Miss Trim's has been serving up homemade local dishes from Store Bay for decades (Credit: dbtravel\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Food menu at Miss Trim's Restaurant Shack in Store Bay on Tobago Island","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8sf2.jpg","title":"Miss Trim's has been serving up homemade local dishes from Store Bay for decades","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj8sf2","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8sf2.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396251},"p0cj8s1n":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj8s1n","_id":"62bed6771f4b7b1e5551d420","copyright":"Abigail Blasi","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F8s\u002Fp0cj8s1n.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Abigail Blasi)","synopsisMedium":"Sherwin Clark's restaurant, Marguerite's, is one of the best places to eat crab and dumpling in Tobago (Credit: Abigail Blasi)","synopsisShort":"Crab and dumpling \u002F Sherwin Clark in his restaurant Marguerite's","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8s1n.jpg","title":"Sherwin Clark's restaurant, Marguerite's, is one of the best places to eat crab and dumpling in Tobago","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj8s1n","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8s1n.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396251},"p0cj8skv":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cj8skv","_id":"62bed6761f4b7b624411651a","copyright":"RGB Ventures\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2880,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcj\u002F8s\u002Fp0cj8skv.jpg","sourceWidth":5120,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: RGB Ventures\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Beach shacks serving locals specialties can be found all over Trinidad & Tobago (Credit: RGB Ventures\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Woman ordering food at Marcus Beach Hut, Trinidad","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8skv.jpg","title":"Beach shacks serving locals specialties can be found all over Trinidad & Tobago","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cj8skv","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cj8skv.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396251},"p09xq72k":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09xq72k","_id":"62b41ebb1f4b7b2dec2ff658","copyright":"thesomegirl\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9x\u002Fq7\u002Fp09xq72k.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: thesomegirl\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze (Credit: thesomegirl\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xq72k.jpg","title":"Middle Eastern or Arabic dishes and assorted meze","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09xq72k","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09xq72k.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cgb5bz":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb5bz","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b06274b08c0","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1280,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb5\u002Fp0cgb5bz.jpg","sourceWidth":1024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Instead of cars, chain stores or light pollution, Clovelly has centuries-old cottages and ocean views (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"The UK seaside village of Clovelly has centuries-old cottages and ocean views","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb5bz.jpg","title":"Instead of cars, chain stores or light pollution, Clovelly has centuries-old cottages and ocean views .jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb5bz","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb5bz.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cgb5r3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb5r3","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b1109727887","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb5\u002Fp0cgb5r3.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Clovelly's stone quay dates back to the 14th Century (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"Clovelly's stone quay dates back to the 14th Century","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb5r3.jpg","title":"Clovelly's stone quay dates back to the 14th Century .jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb5r3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb5r3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cgb5yw":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb5yw","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b1a2e5bf70e","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb5\u002Fp0cgb5yw.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Cass Mcfarlane moved to Clovelly in autumn 2021 (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"Cass Mcfarlane moved to Clovelly in autumn 2021","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb5yw.jpg","title":"Cass Mcfarlane moved to Clovelly in autumn 2021 .jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb5yw","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb5yw.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cgb62y":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb62y","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b1cdd2e3476","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cgb62y.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Clovelly may seem sleepy to outsiders, but residents say that's far from the case (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"View of Clovelly from the quay below","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb62y.jpg","title":"Clovelly may seem sleepy to outsiders, but residents say that's far from the case.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb62y","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb62y.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cgb64k":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb64k","_id":"62b41f191f4b7b1a1d363372","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cgb64k.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"The Hon. John Rous, shown here in Clovelly Court Gardens, has owned Clovelly since 1983 (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"John Rous in Clovelly Court Gardens","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb64k.jpg","title":"The Hon. John Rous, shown here in Clovelly Court Gardens, has owned Clovelly since 1983.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb64k","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb64k.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cgb658":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb658","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b2df875fb67","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cgb658.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Some of Clovelly's cottages are more than 600 years old (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"The whitewashed cottages of Clovelly UK","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb658.jpg","title":"Some of Clovelly's cottages are more than 600 years old .jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb658","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb658.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cgb669":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb669","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b062e33d57b","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cgb669.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Almost anything cumbersome gets sledged into Clovelly – even pets (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"A sledge in action in seaside village of Clovelly UK","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb669.jpg","title":"Almost anything cumbersome gets sledged into Clovelly – even pets.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb669","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb669.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cgb66r":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgb66r","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b55d210a047","copyright":"Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1280,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fb6\u002Fp0cgb66r.jpg","sourceWidth":1080,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"Clovelly's maritime past remains important, and fishing takes place here still today (Credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"fishing nets on beach with view up to seaside village of Clovelly UK","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb66r.jpg","title":"Clovelly's maritime past remains important, and fishing takes place here still today 1020x1280.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgb66r","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgb66r.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cg9tnk":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cg9tnk","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b39391887d1","copyright":"","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002F9t\u002Fp0cg9tnk.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Image credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisMedium":"(Image credit: Amanda Ruggeri\u002FBBC)","synopsisShort":"The steep cobbled walk through Clovelly village UK","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cg9tnk.jpg","title":"The-steep-cobbled-walk-through-Clovelly.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cg9tnk","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cg9tnk.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cdr0z0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr0z0","_id":"62b41f031f4b7b5fdc221063","copyright":"Emily Monaco","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1079,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr0\u002Fp0cdr0z0.jpg","sourceWidth":1939,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisMedium":"Tapping into local terroir is at the heart of Auberge de la Roche (Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisShort":"Tapping into local terroir is at the heart of Auberge de la Roche","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0z0.jpg","title":"Tapping into local terroir is at the heart of Auberge de la Roche","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr0z0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0z0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cdr6xb":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr6xb","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b2df875fb64","copyright":"De Luan\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr6\u002Fp0cdr6xb.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: De Luan\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Illustration of Les Halles, Paris's central fresh food market by Max Berthelin – 1811-1877 (Credit: De Luan\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Illustration of Les Halles, Paris's central fresh food market by Max Berthelin","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr6xb.jpg","title":"Illustration of Les Halles, Paris's central fresh food market by Max Berthelin – 1811-1877","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr6xb","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr6xb.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cdr19b":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr19b","_id":"62b41f151f4b7b55ce211541","copyright":"Anne Claire Heraud","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr1\u002Fp0cdr19b.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Anne Claire Heraud)","synopsisMedium":"Auberge de la Roche relies exclusively on products from within a 50km radius (Credit: Anne Claire Heraud)","synopsisShort":"Auberge de la Roche relies exclusively on products from within a 50km radius","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr19b.jpg","title":"Auberge de la Roche relies exclusively on products from within a 50km radius","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr19b","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr19b.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cdr0cm":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr0cm","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b03623b4553","copyright":"Christian Braut","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":740,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr0\u002Fp0cdr0cm.jpg","sourceWidth":1316,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Christian Braut)","synopsisMedium":"Bertrand Grébaut's D'Une Ile is a B&B and restaurant located in the Perche (Credit: Christian Braut)","synopsisShort":"Bertrand Grébaut's D'Une Ile is a B&B and restaurant located in the Perche","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0cm.jpg","title":"Bertrand Grébaut's D'Une Ile is a B&B and restaurant located in the Perche","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr0cm","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0cm.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"p0cdr0fc":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr0fc","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b5fdb554899","copyright":"Alexandre Guirkinger","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1627,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr0\u002Fp0cdr0fc.jpg","sourceWidth":1627,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Alexandre Guirkinger)","synopsisMedium":"Cauliflower brioche at D'Une Ile (Credit: Alexandre Guirkinger)","synopsisShort":"Cauliflower brioche at D'Une Ile","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0fc.jpg","title":"Cauliflower brioche at D'Une Ile","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr0fc","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0fc.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396253},"p0cdr0ql":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr0ql","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b393765d7fb","copyright":"Emily Monaco","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr0\u002Fp0cdr0ql.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisMedium":"D'Une Ile serves dishes made from home-grown, quality ingredients (Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisShort":"D'Une Ile serves dishes made from home-grown, quality ingredients","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0ql.jpg","title":"D'Une Ile serves dishes made from home-grown, quality ingredients","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr0ql","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr0ql.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396253},"p0cdr1lf":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr1lf","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b26585ce388","copyright":"Loïc Martin","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1280,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr1\u002Fp0cdr1lf.jpg","sourceWidth":914,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Loïc Martin)","synopsisMedium":"Terrasses de l'Ile is a guinguette (country restaurant) on the banks of the Loire River (Credit: Loïc Martin)","synopsisShort":"Terrasses de l'Ile is a guinguette (country restaurant) on the banks of the Loire River","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr1lf.jpg","title":"Terrasses de l'Ile is a guinguette (country restaurant) on the banks of the Loire River","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr1lf","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr1lf.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396253},"p0cdr1r0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr1r0","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b2df10937e2","copyright":"Emily Monaco","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr1\u002Fp0cdr1r0.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"Mussels with white asparagus and squid ink sauce at Le Presbytere","synopsisMedium":"Mussels with white asparagus and squid ink sauce at Le Presbytere (Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisShort":"Mussels with white asparagus and squid ink sauce at Le Presbytere","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr1r0.jpg","title":"Mussels with white asparagus and squid ink sauce at Le Presbytere","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr1r0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr1r0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396253},"p0cdr1wd":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr1wd","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b5fdc221061","copyright":"Emily Monaco","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr1\u002Fp0cdr1wd.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisMedium":"Chef Edward Delling-Williams opened Presbytère in a former vicarage just steps from the beach (Credit: Emily Monaco)","synopsisShort":"Edward Delling-Williams opened Presbytère in a former vicarage just steps from the beach","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr1wd.jpg","title":"Chef Edward Delling-Williams opened Presbytère in a former vicarage just steps from the beach","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr1wd","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr1wd.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396253},"p0cdr07y":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdr07y","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b39391887cd","copyright":"Alexandre Guirkinger","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fr0\u002Fp0cdr07y.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Alexandre Guirkinger)","synopsisMedium":"Tarte aux mûres sauvages (wild blackberry tart) at D'Une Ile (Credit: Alexandre Guirkinger)","synopsisShort":"Tarte aux mûres sauvages (wild blackberry tart) at D'Une Ile","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr07y.jpg","title":"Tarte aux mûres sauvages (wild blackberry tart) at D'Une Ile","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdr07y","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdr07y.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396253},"p0cbr8dq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbr8dq","_id":"62b41f001f4b7b10592dff0d","copyright":"Brendan Sainsbury","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3024,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Fr8\u002Fp0cbr8dq.jpg","sourceWidth":3024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)","synopsisMedium":"The imposing statues outside the Makah Museum wear distinctive cedar-bark rain hats (Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)","synopsisShort":"Large tribal statues outside the Makah Museum","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8dq.jpg","title":"The imposing statues outside the Makah Museum wear distinctive cedar-bark rain hats","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbr8dq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8dq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"p0cbr8dn":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbr8dn","_id":"62b41f001f4b7b2e1220e2de","copyright":"Natalie Fobes\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1187,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Fr8\u002Fp0cbr8dn.jpg","sourceWidth":2111,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Natalie Fobes\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Makan petroglyphs can still be seen at Wedding Rocks, just south of the Ozette archaeological site (Credit: Natalie Fobes\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Detail of Makah Petroglyphs at Wedding Rock, Washington State","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8dn.jpg","title":"Makan petroglyphs can still be seen at Wedding Rocks, just south of the Ozette archaeological site","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbr8dn","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8dn.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"p0cbr8d2":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbr8d2","_id":"62b41f001f4b7b528464f0f3","copyright":"Brendan Sainsbury","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2268,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Fr8\u002Fp0cbr8d2.jpg","sourceWidth":4032,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)","synopsisMedium":"The museum includes a reconstruction of a wooden Makah house among hundreds of other artefacts (Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)","synopsisShort":"Wooden Makah house at Makah Museum","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8d2.jpg","title":"The museum includes a reconstruction of a wooden Makah house among hundreds of other artefacts","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbr8d2","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8d2.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"p0cbr8ct":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbr8ct","_id":"62b41f001f4b7b2dfa3a6fe3","copyright":"Brendan Sainsbury","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3024,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Fr8\u002Fp0cbr8ct.jpg","sourceWidth":3024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)","synopsisMedium":"The Makah are represented by the motif of a thunderbird perched atop a whale (Credit: Brendan Sainsbury)","synopsisShort":"Painting of Makah thunderbird and whale at Neah Bay","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8ct.jpg","title":"The Makah are represented by the motif of a thunderbird perched atop a whale","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbr8ct","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8ct.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"p0cbr8ds":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbr8ds","_id":"62b41f001f4b7b53746c9f70","copyright":"Paulacobleigh\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Fr8\u002Fp0cbr8ds.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Paulacobleigh\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Paulacobleigh\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Sea stacks off Cape Flattery, Makah Reservation, Olympic National Park","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8ds.jpg","title":"(Credit: Paulacobleigh\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbr8ds","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbr8ds.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"p0c27dy3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0c27dy3","_id":"62b41ef31f4b7b06274b089e","copyright":"Christine Ashburn\u002FMichael Judd","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1067,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fc2\u002F7d\u002Fp0c27dy3.jpg","sourceWidth":1600,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Christine Ashburn\u002FMichael Judd)","synopsisMedium":"Michael Judd is the author of For the Love of Paw Paws: A Mini Manual for Growing and Caring for Paw Paws – From Seed to Table. (Credit: Christine Ashburn\u002FMichael Judd)","synopsisShort":"Michael Judd is the author of For the Love of Paw Paws","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c27dy3.jpg","title":"Michael Judd is the author of For the Love of Paw Paws CR Christine Ashburn Michael Judd p0c27dy3.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0c27dy3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c27dy3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"p0c22d9n":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0c22d9n","_id":"62b41ef21f4b7b53746c9f4d","copyright":"db_beyer\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1440,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fc2\u002F2d\u002Fp0c22d9n.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: db_beyer\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The pawpaw is in the same family as the custard apple, cherimoya, sweetsop, soursop and ylang-ylang. (Credit: db_beyer\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"The pawpaw is in the same family as the custard apple, cherimoya, sweetsop and soursop","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c22d9n.jpg","title":"The pawpaw is in the same family as the custard apple, cherimoya, sweetsop, soursop CR db_beyer GettyImages-1368639293.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0c22d9n","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c22d9n.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"p0c35pn2":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0c35pn2","_id":"62b41ef41f4b7b110a3fbbb8","copyright":"Taylor Knapp","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fpng","sourceHeight":566,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fc3\u002F5p\u002Fp0c35pn2.png","sourceWidth":853,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Taylor Knapp)","synopsisMedium":"At PAWPAW on New York's Long Island, chef Taylor Knapp uses the fruit in dishes like a pawpaw sundae with black walnut caramel and burnt orange meringue. (Credit: Taylor Knapp)","synopsisShort":"At PAWPAW on New York's Long Island, chef Taylor Knapp uses the fruit in a sundae","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c35pn2.png","title":"At PAWPAW on New York's Long Island, chef Taylor Knapp uses the fruit in a sundae CR Taylor Knapp.png","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0c35pn2","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c35pn2.png","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"p0c22djw":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0c22djw","_id":"62b41ef51f4b7b393c0e70cb","copyright":"krblokhin\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1280,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fc2\u002F2d\u002Fp0c22djw.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: krblokhin\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The fruit's texture has been compared to custard, and the flavour is a combination of banana and mango. (Credit: krblokhin\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"The fruit's texture has been compared to custard","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c22djw.jpg","title":"The fruit's texture has been compared to custard, and the flavour is a combination of banana and mango.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0c22djw","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0c22djw.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"p0cgjfjl":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgjfjl","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b2843769169","copyright":"Lola Akinmade Åkerström","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fjf\u002Fp0cgjfjl.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Lola Akinmade Åkerström)","synopsisMedium":"Auroral observations are reported from mid-August to April in Abisko (Credit: Lola Akinmade Åkerström)","synopsisShort":"Auroral observations are reported from mid-August to April in Abisko Sweden","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgjfjl.jpg","title":"Auroral observations are reported from mid-August to April in Abisko.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgjfjl","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgjfjl.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396255},"p0cfy9tp":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cfy9tp","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b2dec2ff6e1","copyright":"Lola Akinmade Åkerström","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcf\u002Fy9\u002Fp0cfy9tp.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Lola Akinmade Åkerström)","synopsisMedium":"Abisko is home to a \"blue hole\" – a patch of sky that remains clear regardless of surrounding weather patterns (Credit: Lola Akinmade Åkerström)","synopsisShort":"cloudless sky over Abisko Sweden mountains and frozen lake","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfy9tp.jpg","title":"Abisko is home to a \"blue hole\" – a patch of sky that remains clear regardless of surrounding weather 4-1920x1080.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cfy9tp","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfy9tp.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396255},"p0cfy9p1":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cfy9p1","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b062b0c047a","copyright":"Lola Akinmade Åkerström","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcf\u002Fy9\u002Fp0cfy9p1.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Lola Akinmade Åkerström)","synopsisMedium":"Rosen: \"Seeing how people express their feelings after seeing the lights makes me feel I have the best job in the world\" (Credit: Lola Akinmade Åkerström)","synopsisShort":"northern lights Abisko Sweden","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfy9p1.jpg","title":"Rosen Seeing how people express their feelings after seeing the lights 22.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cfy9p1","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfy9p1.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396255},"p0cgjd4w":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cgjd4w","_id":"62b41f051f4b7b2dfa3a6fee","copyright":"Lola Akinmade Åkerström","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcg\u002Fjd\u002Fp0cgjd4w.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Lola Akinmade Åkerström)","synopsisMedium":"Folktales said children were not supposed to look at the Auroras, otherwise the lights would come down and take them away (Credit: Lola Akinmade Åkerström)","synopsisShort":"Green and purple aurora borealis over Abisko Sweden","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgjd4w.jpg","title":"Folktales said children were not supposed to look at the Auroras, otherwise the lights would come down and take them away.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cgjd4w","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cgjd4w.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396256},"p0cfy9t5":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cfy9t5","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b2e1220e2e6","copyright":"Lola Akinmade Åkerström","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcf\u002Fy9\u002Fp0cfy9t5.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Lola Akinmade Åkerström)","synopsisMedium":"Perched close to the summit is the remote Aurora Sky Station, a 20-minute chairlift ride up from its base (Credit: Lola Akinmade Åkerström)","synopsisShort":"northern lights Abisko Sweden","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfy9t5.jpg","title":"Perched close to the summit is the remote Aurora Sky Station, a 20-minute chairlift ride up from its base 35 1920X1080.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cfy9t5","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfy9t5.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396256},"p0cfy9r5":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cfy9r5","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b527738f568","copyright":"Lola Akinmade Åkerström","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcf\u002Fy9\u002Fp0cfy9r5.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Lola Akinmade Åkerström)","synopsisMedium":"Abisko is one of Sweden's northernmost villages, located 250km north of the Arctic Circle (Credit: Lola Akinmade Åkerström)","synopsisShort":"northern lights Abisko Sweden","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfy9r5.jpg","title":"Abisko is one of Sweden's northernmost villages, located 250km north of the Arctic Circle 26 1920X1080.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cfy9r5","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfy9r5.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396256},"p0cfykxs":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cfykxs","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b5fdb55489e","copyright":"Arterra Picture Library\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2984,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcf\u002Fyk\u002Fp0cfykxs.jpg","sourceWidth":5305,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Arterra Picture Library\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"Founded by Sweden in 1910 and sold to the Soviet Union in 1927, Pyramiden is now largely abandoned (Credit: Arterra Picture Library\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Pyramiden sign at the abandoned Russian settlement","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfykxs.jpg","title":"Founded by Sweden in 1910 and sold to the Soviet Union in 1927, Pyramiden is now largely abandoned","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cfykxs","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfykxs.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396256},"p0cfykxq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cfykxq","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b393765d808","copyright":"Christian Aslund\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1192,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcf\u002Fyk\u002Fp0cfykxq.jpg","sourceWidth":2119,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Christian Aslund\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The central square at the coal-mining town is watched over by a bust of Lenin (Credit: Christian Aslund\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Pyramiden central square covered in snow with Lenin statue","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfykxq.jpg","title":"The central square at the coal-mining town is watched over by a bust of Lenin (Credit: Christian Aslund\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cfykxq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfykxq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396256},"p0cfykx4":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cfykx4","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b033824754f","copyright":"Manual Romaris\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcf\u002Fyk\u002Fp0cfykx4.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Manual Romaris\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Most of Pyramiden's infrastructure and buildings remain in place, despite the mines no longer being operational (Credit: Manual Romaris\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Abandoned town of Pyramiden in Arctic Norway","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfykx4.jpg","title":"Most of Pyramiden's infrastructure and buildings remain in place, despite the mines no longer being operational","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cfykx4","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfykx4.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396256},"p0cfykwp":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cfykwp","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b2dec2ff6e2","copyright":"George Pachantouris\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcf\u002Fyk\u002Fp0cfykwp.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: George Pachantouris\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The few remaining staff gather at the tiny bar of the Tulpan Hotel (Credit: George Pachantouris\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Sign pointing to hotel and bar at Pyramiden","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfykwp.jpg","title":"The few remaining staff gather at the tiny bar of the Tulpan Hotel (Credit: George Pachantouris\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cfykwp","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfykwp.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396257},"p0cfykyc":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cfykyc","_id":"62b41f041f4b7b527738f567","copyright":"Arterra Picture Library\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3159,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcf\u002Fyk\u002Fp0cfykyc.jpg","sourceWidth":5616,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Arterra Picture Library\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Arterra Picture Library\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Coal-mining infrastructure in front of snow-covered cliffs in Arctic Norway","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfykyc.jpg","title":"(Credit: Arterra Picture Library\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cfykyc","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cfykyc.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396257},"p0cc4zf3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cc4zf3","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b062e33d577","copyright":"Daniel Stables","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4000,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002F4z\u002Fp0cc4zf3.jpg","sourceWidth":4000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Daniel Stables)","synopsisMedium":"Laguna nel Bicchiere, an organisation devoted to the propagation of Venetian viticulture, preserves the vineyard on San Michele (Credit: Daniel Stables)","synopsisShort":"Vineyard and abandoned monastery at San Michele","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cc4zf3.jpg","title":"Laguna nel Bicchiere preserves the vineyard on San Michele","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cc4zf3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cc4zf3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396257},"p0cc4zds":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cc4zds","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b527738f55d","copyright":"Daniel Stables","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3375,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002F4z\u002Fp0cc4zds.jpg","sourceWidth":6000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Daniel Stables)","synopsisMedium":"Venissa's vineyard is enclosed by ancient walls and towered over by a medieval bell tower (Credit: Daniel Stables)","synopsisShort":"Venissa vineyards with bell tower","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cc4zds.jpg","title":"Venissa's vineyard is enclosed by ancient walls and towered over by a medieval bell tower","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cc4zds","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cc4zds.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396257},"p0cc4zck":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cc4zck","_id":"62b41f141f4b7b284565481c","copyright":"Awakening\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1688,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002F4z\u002Fp0cc4zck.jpg","sourceWidth":3000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Awakening\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Honouring two more Venetian traditions, Venissa's hand-blown wine bottles display hand-beaten gold leaf (Credit: Awakening\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Venissa hand-blown wine bottles in a case","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cc4zck.jpg","title":"Honouring two more Venetian traditions, Venissa's hand-blown wine bottles display hand-beaten gold leaf","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cc4zck","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cc4zck.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396257},"p0cc4z7f":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cc4z7f","_id":"62b41f161f4b7b1a1d363366","copyright":"Awakening\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1687,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002F4z\u002Fp0cc4z7f.jpg","sourceWidth":3000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Awakening\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Drainage ditches cross Venissa's vineyards to combat the saltwater from the lagoon (Credit: Awakening\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Two men harvesting dorona grapes at Venissa vineyard","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cc4z7f.jpg","title":"Drainage ditches cross Venissa's vineyards to combat the saltwater from the lagoon","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cc4z7f","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cc4z7f.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396257},"p0cc4zfy":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cc4zfy","_id":"62b41f161f4b7b1a1d363365","copyright":"Awakening\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1687,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002F4z\u002Fp0cc4zfy.jpg","sourceWidth":3000,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Awakening\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Awakening\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Man loading a barge with dorona grapes on the island of Mazzorbo","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cc4zfy.jpg","title":"(Credit: Awakening\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cc4zfy","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cc4zfy.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396257},"p0cdyx42":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdyx42","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b11135af227","copyright":"Mtreasure\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2052,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fyx\u002Fp0cdyx42.jpg","sourceWidth":3648,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Mtreasure\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The core ingredient of jhal muri is puffed rice, which is mixed with a range of hot and sour ingredients (Credit: Mtreasure\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Platter of jhal muri snack stall decorated with tomatoes, onions, lemons","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdyx42.jpg","title":"The core ingredient of jhal muri is puffed rice, which is mixed with a range of hot and sour ingredients","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdyx42","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdyx42.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396258},"p0cdyx3y":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdyx3y","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b1109727883","copyright":"Arindam Ghosh\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2268,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fyx\u002Fp0cdyx3y.jpg","sourceWidth":4032,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Arindam Ghosh\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"The jhal-muri wallah is often as much of a draw as the snack, with some vendors commanding cult followings (Credit: Arindam Ghosh\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Jhal muri chaat being sold by a fast food vendor","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdyx3y.jpg","title":"The jhal-muri wallah is often as much of a draw as the snack, with some vendors commanding cult followings","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdyx3y","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdyx3y.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396258},"p0cdyx3m":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdyx3m","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b062d57d440","copyright":"Angus Denoon Duncan","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2417,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fyx\u002Fp0cdyx3m.jpg","sourceWidth":2417,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Angus Denoon Duncan)","synopsisMedium":"Chef Angus Denoon Duncan has been selling jhal muri in England for the past 17 years (Credit: Angus Denoon Duncan)","synopsisShort":"Angus Denoon Duncan's jhal muri express trolley","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdyx3m.jpg","title":"Chef Angus Denoon Duncan has been selling jhal muri in England for the past 17 years","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdyx3m","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdyx3m.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396258},"p0cdyx3c":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdyx3c","_id":"62b41f031f4b7b2e1220e2e3","copyright":"Ian Garlick \u002F Lorenz Books\u002FAnness Publishing Ltd","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":5054,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fyx\u002Fp0cdyx3c.jpg","sourceWidth":8984,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Ian Garlick \u002F Lorenz Books\u002FAnness Publishing Ltd)","synopsisMedium":"In Saira Hamilton's cookbook, My Bangladesh Kitchen, jhal muri stands proudly as the first recipe (Credit: Ian Garlick \u002F Lorenz Books\u002FAnness Publishing Ltd)","synopsisShort":"Photo of jhal muri and tea from Saira Hamilton's The Bangladesh Kitchen cookbook","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdyx3c.jpg","title":"In Saira Hamilton's cookbook, My Bangladesh Kitchen, jhal muri stands proudly as the first recipe","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdyx3c","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdyx3c.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396258},"p0cdyx46":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdyx46","_id":"62b41f181f4b7b2df3755b13","copyright":"Ihsan Eesa\u002FAlamy","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3384,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fyx\u002Fp0cdyx46.jpg","sourceWidth":6016,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Ihsan Eesa\u002FAlamy)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Ihsan Eesa\u002FAlamy)","synopsisShort":"Fast food vendor serving jhal muri surrounded by customers","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdyx46.jpg","title":"(Credit: Ihsan Eesa\u002FAlamy)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdyx46","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdyx46.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396258},"p0cdykwl":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdykwl","_id":"62b41f031f4b7b11135af228","copyright":"Centre for Alternative Technology","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fyk\u002Fp0cdykwl.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Centre for Alternative Technology)","synopsisMedium":"As a tank at the top of the funicular railway filled with water, one at the bottom was emptied; gravity did the rest (Credit: Centre for Alternative Technology)","synopsisShort":"A funicular railway at Centre for Alternative Technology Machynlleth Great Britain","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdykwl.jpg","title":"As a tank at the top of the funicular railway filled with water, one at the bottom was emptied.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdykwl","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdykwl.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396259},"p0cdykvr":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdykvr","_id":"62b41f031f4b7b2843769164","copyright":"Centre for Alternative Technology","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fyk\u002Fp0cdykvr.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Centre for Alternative Technology)","synopsisMedium":"CAT is a seemingly ramshackle collection of log cabins, old wind turbines, thatched huts, steel tubes and funicular railways (Credit: Centre for Alternative Technology)","synopsisShort":"Centre for Alternative Technology in Machynlleth Great Britain","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdykvr.jpg","title":"CAT is a seemingly ramshackle collection of log cabins, old wind turbines.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdykvr","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdykvr.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396259},"p0cdykwn":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdykwn","_id":"62b41f031f4b7b1ce36d107f","copyright":"Getty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fyk\u002Fp0cdykwn.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Getty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Machynlleth has transformed in the decades since CAT's opening, turning from ancient market town into a haven for eco awareness (Credit: Getty Images)","synopsisShort":"Clock tower of Machynlleth Great Britain with high street and people sitting at tables","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdykwn.jpg","title":"Machynlleth has transformed in the decades since CAT's opening, turning from ancient market town.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdykwn","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdykwn.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396259},"p0cdykw8":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdykw8","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b2843769161","copyright":"Centre for Alternative Technology","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fyk\u002Fp0cdykw8.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Centre for Alternative Technology)","synopsisMedium":"\"The respect for stewarding the land is inherent in Welsh society and culture,\" said Rowland (Credit: Centre for Alternative Technology)","synopsisShort":"People planting plants on a table at Centre for Alternative Technology Great Britain","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdykw8.jpg","title":"\"The respect for stewarding the land is inherent in Welsh society and culture,\" .jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdykw8","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdykw8.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396259},"p0cdyks9":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cdyks9","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b1ce400a0e5","copyright":"Centre for Alternative Technology","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcd\u002Fyk\u002Fp0cdyks9.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Centre for Alternative Technology)","synopsisMedium":"The Centre for Alternative Technology (CAT) has spent the last half a century redefining the relationship between nature and humankind (Credit: Centre for Alternative Technology)","synopsisShort":"Aerial view of Centre for Alternative Technology in green hills Machynlleth Great Britain","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdyks9.jpg","title":"The Centre for Alternative Technology (CAT) has spent the last half a century 1920x1080.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cdyks9","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cdyks9.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396259},"p0ccbkg9":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ccbkg9","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b2df10937e0","copyright":"Scott A Woodward","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4644,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fbk\u002Fp0ccbkg9.jpg","sourceWidth":8256,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisMedium":"Grilling is one of the most popular cooking techniques in the Philippines (Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisShort":"Two men grilling and fanning BBQ skewers over a grill","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ccbkg9.jpg","title":"Grilling is one of the most popular cooking techniques in the Philippines (Credit: Scott A Woodward)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ccbkg9","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ccbkg9.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396260},"p0ccbkfq":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ccbkfq","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b55d210a03e","copyright":"Scott A Woodward","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4644,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fbk\u002Fp0ccbkfq.jpg","sourceWidth":8256,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisMedium":"Pinoy BBQ's unique marinade contains soy sauce, calamansi, banana ketchup and lemon-lime soda (Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisShort":"Person holding tray piled with meat skewers","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ccbkfq.jpg","title":"Pinoy BBQ's unique marinade contains soy sauce, calamansi, banana ketchup and lemon-lime soda","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ccbkfq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ccbkfq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396260},"p0ccbkfb":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ccbkfb","_id":"62b41f121f4b7b11001f2899","copyright":"Scott A Woodward","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4644,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fbk\u002Fp0ccbkfb.jpg","sourceWidth":8256,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisMedium":"Aling Bebeng's BBQ is one of the most popular street grills in Metro Manila (Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisShort":"People standing in front of a street-side BBQ grill at Aling Bebeng's BBQ","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ccbkfb.jpg","title":"Aling Bebeng's BBQ is one of the most popular street grills in Metro Manila","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ccbkfb","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ccbkfb.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396260},"p0ccbk8c":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ccbk8c","_id":"62b41f151f4b7b06274b08e4","copyright":"Scott A Woodward","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4644,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fbk\u002Fp0ccbk8c.jpg","sourceWidth":8256,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisMedium":"At Toyo Eatery, Chef Navarra serves up a high-end version of BBQ that uses three cuts of pork and a concentrated reduction glaze (Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisShort":"Chef Jordy Navarra brushing marinade onto skewers at Toyo Eatery","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ccbk8c.jpg","title":"At Toyo Eatery, Chef Navarra serves up a high-end version of BBQ that uses three cuts of pork","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ccbk8c","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ccbk8c.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396260},"p0ccbkgf":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ccbkgf","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b1a2e5bf708","copyright":"Scott A Woodward","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4644,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fbk\u002Fp0ccbkgf.jpg","sourceWidth":8256,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Scott A Woodward)","synopsisShort":"Skewers of Pinoy BBQ on a banana leaf","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ccbkgf.jpg","title":"(Credit: Scott A Woodward)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ccbkgf","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ccbkgf.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396260},"p0cchx8r":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cchx8r","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b037f50304a","copyright":"Amelia Martyn-Hemphill","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fhx\u002Fp0cchx8r.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisMedium":"Chef Miatta Marke's culinary mission is to serve Sierra Leone its own food (Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisShort":"Chef Miatta Marke's culinary mission is to serve Sierra Leone its own food","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx8r.jpg","title":"Chef Miatta Marke's culinary mission is to serve Sierra Leone its own food","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cchx8r","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx8r.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"p0cchx8c":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cchx8c","_id":"62b41f001f4b7b0338247543","copyright":"Amelia Martyn-Hemphill","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fhx\u002Fp0cchx8c.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisMedium":"The Cole Street Guest House is the first gourmet restaurant to be dedicated entirely to Sierra Leone traditional dishes (Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisShort":"The Cole Street Guest House is dedicated entirely Sierra Leone dishes","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx8c.jpg","title":"The Cole Street Guest House is the first gourmet restaurant to be dedicated entirely to Sierra Leone traditional dishes","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cchx8c","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx8c.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"p0cchx8m":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cchx8m","_id":"62b41f151f4b7b53727bb93f","copyright":"Amelia Martyn-Hemphill","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fhx\u002Fp0cchx8m.jpg","sourceWidth":1080,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisMedium":"Marke's great-great-grandmother, Aminata Bah, escaped from a slave ship as a young girl (Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisShort":"Miatta Marke's great-great-grandmother, Aminata Bah","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx8m.jpg","title":"Marke's great-great-grandmother, Aminata Bah, escaped from a slave ship as a young girl","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cchx8m","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx8m.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"p0cchx4m":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cchx4m","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b5fdb554896","copyright":"Amelia Martyn-Hemphill","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fhx\u002Fp0cchx4m.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisMedium":"Foorah: steamed rice-flour dumplings with a tamarind-caramel dipping sauce (Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisShort":"Foorah: steamed rice-flour dumplings with a tamarind-caramel dipping sauce","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx4m.jpg","title":"Foorah: steamed rice-flour dumplings with a tamarind-caramel dipping sauce","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cchx4m","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx4m.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"p0cchx6t":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cchx6t","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b26585ce387","copyright":"Amelia Martyn-Hemphill","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fhx\u002Fp0cchx6t.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisMedium":"Cassava bread tortillas with grilled mackerel and crispy minnows, mango and ground chilli (Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisShort":"Cassava bread tortillas with grilled mackerel and crispy minnows, mango and ground chilli","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx6t.jpg","title":"Cassava bread tortillas with grilled mackerel and crispy minnows, mango and ground chilli","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cchx6t","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx6t.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"p0cchx8t":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cchx8t","_id":"62b41f161f4b7b2df875fb8f","copyright":"Amelia Martyn-Hemphill","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fhx\u002Fp0cchx8t.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisMedium":"Marke employs local women who either face challenges or have overcome adversity (Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisShort":"Miatta Marke employs local women who either face challenges or have overcome adversity","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx8t.jpg","title":"Marke employs local women who either face challenges or have overcome adversity","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cchx8t","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx8t.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"p0cchx3x":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cchx3x","_id":"62b41f001f4b7b1a2e5bf707","copyright":"Amelia Martyn-Hemphill","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fhx\u002Fp0cchx3x.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisMedium":"Huntu: steamed cornmeal dumplings, with a parsley-chilli, prawn-and-lobster stuffing (Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisShort":"Huntu: steamed cornmeal dumplings, with a parsley-chilli, prawn-and-lobster stuffing","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx3x.jpg","title":"Huntu: steamed cornmeal dumplings, with a parsley-chilli, prawn-and-lobster stuffing","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cchx3x","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx3x.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"p0cchx8f":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cchx8f","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b2df2083378","copyright":"Amelia Martyn-Hemphill","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fhx\u002Fp0cchx8f.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisMedium":"Sierra Leone is grabbing attention for its bold flavours (Credit: Amelia Martyn-Hemphill)","synopsisShort":"Sierra Leone is grabbing attention for its bold flavours","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx8f.jpg","title":"Sierra Leone is grabbing attention for its bold flavours","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cchx8f","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cchx8f.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"p0cck16j":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cck16j","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b2dfa3a6fe7","copyright":"Matt Reichel","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fk1\u002Fp0cck16j.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Matt Reichel)","synopsisMedium":"\"Coffee is part of my heritage and lineage,\" said Al-Maliki, whose farm dates back more than 130 years (Credit: Matt Reichel)","synopsisShort":"Father and son picking coffee cherries in Jazan region of Saudi Arabia","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cck16j.jpg","title":"\"Coffee is part of my heritage and lineage,\" said Al-Maliki, whose farm dates back more than 130 years.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cck16j","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cck16j.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262},"p0cck144":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cck144","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b5fdb554897","copyright":"Matt Reichel","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fk1\u002Fp0cck144.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Matt Reichel)","synopsisMedium":"As we watched, Al-Maliki's sons roasted coffee beans harvested from their fields in a cast-iron pan over an open fire (Credit: Matt Reichel)","synopsisShort":"Saudi Arabian Khawlani coffee beans being roasted in cast-iron pan over open fire","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cck144.jpg","title":"As we watched, Al-Maliki's sons roasted coffee beans harvested from their fields in a cast-iron pan over an open fire.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cck144","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cck144.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262},"p0cck13r":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cck13r","_id":"62b41f131f4b7b28443c8d8d","copyright":"Matt Reichel","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fk1\u002Fp0cck13r.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Matt Reichel)","synopsisMedium":"The Jazan region is known across Saudi Arabia for its prized Khawlani coffee (Credit: Matt Reichel)","synopsisShort":"Coffee farmer sitting on mountain hillside in Jazan Saudi Arabia looking over valley","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cck13r.jpg","title":"The Jazan region is known across Saudi Arabia for its prized Khawlani coffee (Credit: Matt Reichel).jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cck13r","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cck13r.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262},"p0cck16d":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cck16d","_id":"62b41f171f4b7b626d078da2","copyright":"Matt Reichel","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fk1\u002Fp0cck16d.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Matt Reichel)","synopsisMedium":"Social media sensation Al-Raithi (right) gave us a joyous greeting and immediately prepared coffee in small cups, served out of a long, ornate silver pot (Credit: Matt Reichel)","synopsisShort":"In Saudi Arabia Jazan coffee region three men in tent wearing colourful floral headpieces","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cck16d.jpg","title":"Social media sensation Al-Raithi gave us a joyous greeting and immediately prepared coffee in small cups.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cck16d","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cck16d.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262},"p0cck1v2":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cck1v2","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b11135af21c","copyright":"Matt Reichel","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fk1\u002Fp0cck1v2.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Matt Reichel)","synopsisMedium":"The goals of the Year of Saudi Coffee are to extend knowledge of Khawlani internationally and highlight the coffee rituals specific to Saudi Arabia (Credit: Matt Reichel)","synopsisShort":"two hands holding Khawlani coffee cherries from Jazan region in Saudi Arabia","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cck1v2.jpg","title":"The goals of the Year of Saudi Coffee are to extend knowledge of Khawlani internationally and highlight the coffee rituals.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cck1v2","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cck1v2.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262},"p0ccyjs1":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0ccyjs1","_id":"62b41f021f4b7b527738f560","copyright":"Jasmin Merdan\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcc\u002Fyj\u002Fp0ccyjs1.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Jasmin Merdan\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Saudi Arabia has designated 2022 as the Year of Coffee (Credit: Jasmin Merdan\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"hands pouring coffee out of decorative metal pot in Saudi Arabia","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ccyjs1.jpg","title":"Saudi Arabia has designated 2022 as the Year of Coffee GettyImages-893825986-1920x1080.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0ccyjs1","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0ccyjs1.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262},"p0cbrmjm":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbrmjm","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b393765d7fc","copyright":"Laura Hall","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3780,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Frm\u002Fp0cbrmjm.jpg","sourceWidth":3024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Laura Hall)","synopsisMedium":"The Arctic Hideaway is the brainchild of jazz musician Håvard Lund, who initially devised the hotel as a collaborative creative space (Credit: Laura Hall)","synopsisShort":"The Arctic Hideaway owner Håvard Lund sitting at a table infront of the sea","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbrmjm.jpg","title":"The Arctic Hideaway is the brainchild of jazz musician Håvard Lund, who devised the hotel as a collaborative creative space","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbrmjm","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbrmjm.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396263},"p0cbrmhg":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbrmhg","_id":"62b41f151f4b7b06274b08e5","copyright":"Laura Hall","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3780,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Frm\u002Fp0cbrmhg.jpg","sourceWidth":3024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Laura Hall)","synopsisMedium":"Guests are encouraged to spend time outdoors or in the shared spaces (pictured), rather than in the small sleeping cabins (Credit: Laura Hall)","synopsisShort":"Interior of shared living space at The Arctic Hideaway","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbrmhg.jpg","title":"Guests are encouraged to spend time outdoors or in the shared spaces (pictured), rather than in the small sleeping cabins","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbrmhg","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbrmhg.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396263},"p0cbrmgr":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbrmgr","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b2dec2ff6d9","copyright":"Laura Hall","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3780,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Frm\u002Fp0cbrmgr.jpg","sourceWidth":3024,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Laura Hall)","synopsisMedium":"All food and other supplies must be brought in by boat, and the island is regularly cut off during bad weather or high winds (Credit: Laura Hall)","synopsisShort":"Boat at dock at Sørvær island, Norway","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbrmgr.jpg","title":"All food and other supplies must be brought in by boat, and the island is regularly cut off during bad weather or high winds","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbrmgr","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbrmgr.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396263},"p0cbrmlc":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0cbrmlc","_id":"62b41f011f4b7b284376915d","copyright":"Laura Hall","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1698,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fcb\u002Frm\u002Fp0cbrmlc.jpg","sourceWidth":3019,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Laura Hall)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Laura Hall)","synopsisShort":"Modernist buildings of the Arctic Hideaway in Norway","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbrmlc.jpg","title":"(Credit: Laura Hall)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0cbrmlc","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0cbrmlc.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396263},"p0by5vj0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0by5vj0","_id":"62b41eef1f4b7b112172c1c3","copyright":"Onfokus\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fby\u002F5v\u002Fp0by5vj0.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Onfokus\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Onfokus\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Man with smart phone with Digital International Certificate of Covid-19 Vaccination","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by5vj0.jpg","title":"Man with smart phone with Digital International Certificate of Covid-19 Vaccination","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0by5vj0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0by5vj0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396264},"p0bpz96n":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0bpz96n","_id":"62b41ee31f4b7b062d57d410","copyright":"R A Kearton\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fbp\u002Fz9\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: R A Kearton\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Car driving in the hills of England on a sunny evening (Credit: R A Kearton\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Car driving in the hills of England on a sunny evening","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","title":"Car driving in the hills of England on a sunny evening","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0bpz96n","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0bpz96n.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396264},"p09pldr6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09pldr6","_id":"62b41ea41f4b7b2dee12db65","copyright":"hadynyah\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":3078,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9p\u002Fld\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","sourceWidth":5472,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: hadynyah\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: hadynyah\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Indian women carrying water from stepwell near Jaipur, Rajasthan, India","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","title":"GettyImages-1201530843-crop.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09pldr6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396264}},"articles":{"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools","_id":"62b420361f4b7b29417c9252","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"It’s one of the key ingredients in Chinese “málà” cooking, and its effects are said to be both physiological and mental.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI didn’t see it coming, that mild feeling of electric currents buzzing on my tongue as if I’d licked a battery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESeated on a busy pavement in front of a lazy Susan weighed down with sizzling hotpot, diced rabbit and fish soup, I was digging into a spicy meal on the humid first night of a visit to Chengdu, the capital of China’s south-western Sichuan province and the cradle of the region’s famously fiery cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe plates resembled volcanic islands, each dish’s contents swimming in chilli oil hidden beneath a red-hot mountain of peppers and garlic. Tongue ablaze and face flushed, I felt a prickliness starting to numb my taste buds. The waiter chuckled at my glistening forehead and handed me a handkerchief; it was clear who at the table was the foreigner not yet acclimated to local flavours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The tandem combination of burning and numbing from these two ingredients is known in Chinese as málà","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnsettling at first, that tingly feeling of electricity offered a pleasant reprieve from the heat. This curious effect was thanks to one of the most integral ingredients in this province’s distinctive cuisine: the tiny-but-mighty Sichuan peppercorn, a spice indigenous to China.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe seasoning’s English label is a misnomer, as the “peppercorns” are actually husks of dried berries from a type of prickly ash shrub. When you eat chillies, capsaicin induces a burning sensation known in Chinese as \u003Cem\u003Elà\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Sichuan peppercorns produce a phenomenon called paraesthesia, in which the lips and tongue feel as though they are vibrating and go vaguely numb – known as \u003Cem\u003Emá\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Together, the tandem combination of burning and numbing from these two ingredients is known in Chinese as \u003Cem\u003Emálà\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a hallmark of Sichuan cuisine that facilitates sweating – and thus creates a cooling effect that makes the sweltering climate more tolerable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The level of humidity in Sichuan can make you feel lethargic and uncomfortable,” said Cheng Yi, who owns the Cheng Big Mouth Frog restaurant, which specialises in Sichuan-style frog stew, in the nearby city of Chongqing. “Sichuan peppercorn not only adds fragrance but also helps combat dampness.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Despite not feeling hungry at first, my stomach became a bottomless pit as I continued eating","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Traditional Chinese Medicine, the human body’s constitutions are intimately connected with the surrounding environment. Highly humid weather, which Chengdu experiences year-round, is said to create dampness in the body, which can lead to headaches and bloating. Eating spicy food and sweating can mitigate the adverse physiological effects of humidity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We always joke that if you have a cold, just go eat a meal of potently málà food and you’ll recover,” Cheng quipped. “By eliminating toxins from the body through sweating, you’ll feel much better the next day.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI indeed felt cooler as the meal wore on, despite sitting outside in the moist air. And despite not feeling hungry at first, my stomach became a bottomless pit as I continued eating; the Sichuan peppercorn was also soothing my mouth with its vaguely anaesthetic prickliness, enabling me to eat more by rendering the spice of the chillies a little less fiery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When it’s humid in the summer, your appetite isn’t as good. But stimulating flavours can spur you to eat more,” said Gan Siqi, a born-and-bred Chengdu native and avid cook.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe cuisine’s restorative effects seem to have given Sichuan food a reputation within China for being rather irresistible. Gan frequently cooks Sichuan dishes for out-of-town guests and has seen many unwittingly get hooked on the cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“When people first try Sichuan food, on one hand they will fear it – because they’re pouring sweat and their tongues go numb – but they will also want to eat it again,” said Gan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The level of fragrance that you get in Sichuan food is unlike anything in the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“As a foreigner, I wasn’t 100% convinced that hotpot was the best, or even that delicious. But I think it only took a few times, and I was hooked,” said Trevor James, who explores Sichuan street food for his blog and YouTube channel \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thefoodranger.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Food Ranger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJames told me many people have the misconception that Sichuan food is one-dimensionally hot. After living in Chengdu for six years, he would describe the food as more aromatic than spicy. “The level of fragrance that you get in Sichuan food is unlike anything in the world,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe berry that keeps Asia looking young\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina's secret female-only language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs Japan losing its umami?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMuch of that unique fragrance comes from Sichuan peppercorn. And while málà is one of the best-loved flavour profiles of the cuisine, the peppercorn’s aroma plays a part across different types of Sichuan dishes, not only the spicy ones. Chefs often use it to heighten other seasonings and concoct more balanced, harmonious flavour profiles. Simmering fresh Sichuan peppercorn in oil, for example, produces a vaguely numbing oil that can enhance noodles, salads and sauces. Grinding it into a powder makes an ideal addition to a dry rub for roasted meat. The spice’s ability to complement many different flavours partly explains how it became so ubiquitous in the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Chongqing is a port city, and back in the day, a lot of workers did hard labour by the docks,” said Elaine Luo, a Chongqing native who runs the blog \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chinasichuanfood.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina Sichuan Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “The wealthy people in Sichuan ate a lot of beef, but they saw the offal as unrefined, something to throw away. So, the labourers would take the offal for a source of protein.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor those workers in Chongqing, which was part of Sichuan province until 1997, Sichuan peppercorn was a cheap way to mask the gamey taste of otherwise pungent meats. Today, famous dishes such as \u003Cem\u003Efūqī fèi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Epiàn\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – thinly sliced beef offal tossed with chilli oil, Sichuan peppercorn and garlic – make star ingredients of those cuts once considered lower-class.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDining habits are often necessitated by geography and circumstance, and only later evolve into distinct regional lifestyles. Sichuan’s food is now considered one of the Eight Great Cuisines of China – which are commonly recognised by Chinese chefs to be the best and most sophisticated cuisines in the country – and in 2010, Chengdu was the first Asian city to be designated a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.unesco.org\u002Fcreative-cities\u002Fchengdu\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco Creative City of Gastronomy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThanks to the growing Chinese diaspora and increasing cultural exchange, Sichuan cuisine is also one of the most celebrated regional Chinese cuisines overseas, with restaurants such as hotpot chain \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.haidilao.com\u002Fen\u002Findex\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHaidilao\u003C\u002Fa\u003E recently launching dozens of international locations in the UK, North America, Australia and Asia. The cuisine’s popularity is especially impressive considering that the importation of Sichuan peppercorn to the United States was banned between 1968 and 2005 over concerns the spice may carry crop bacteria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The importation of Sichuan peppercorn to the United States was banned between 1968 and 2005","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven today, finding fresh, potent Sichuan peppercorn overseas can be challenging; what I’ve purchased in the US lacks aroma and often comes with seeds and twigs. Taylor Holliday, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthemalamarket.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Mala Market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a blog-turned-import specialist that sources Sichuan spices – says that often happens when the ingredient is processed by machine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“[Machine-sorting of Sichuan peppercorn] leaves a lot of seeds, but that’s what most people will export because there’s no manual labour involved,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver the years, Holliday has learned Sichuan peppercorn must be hand-sorted in order to leave only the husks. “It really does make a huge difference in the taste,” she said. “A carefully processed Sichuan peppercorn just tastes much more fragrant and [is] much more potent.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf chefs can get their hands on it, fresh Sichuan peppercorn at its full potential may have myriad applications even beyond Sichuan cuisine. Nowadays, restaurants outside China have begun using the numbing ingredient in non-traditional ways. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.millenniumhotels.com\u002Fen\u002Fsingapore\u002Fm-social-singapore\u002Fbeast-and-butterflies\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBeast & Butterflies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the M Social Singapore Hotel recently included it in a chocolate and banana sphere dessert. The Washington DC-area joint \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhotlolaschicken.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHot Lola’s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E adds it to a variation on Nashville hot chicken. And in New York, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fshelskys.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShelsky’s Brooklyn Bagels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E sprinkles it atop a Sichuan pepper bialy (a yeast roll that’s similar to a bagel).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The world is a global village now. You can try some of what’s mine, I can try some of what’s yours. I think it’s great,” said Luo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis means more people around the world can discover the ingredient’s powerful effects, which Sichuan locals say are both physiological and mental. Despite rapid development that has seen Chengdu taken over by skyscrapers in recent decades, the city has a decidedly carefree feel that noticeably contrasts with the fast-paced metropolises of Shanghai or Shenzhen. To some locals, Chengdu’s easy-going vibe can even be traced back to its gastronomy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Compared to people from other provinces, Sichuan folks pay more attention to quality of life. We believe, since we are alive today, we should live for the present,” said Luo. “Eating málà supports this mindset.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s almost as if the powerful burn of spicy foods, coupled with the afterglow of peppercorns numbing away the pain, somehow makes málà food cathartic. Some dishes even derive their names from this belief: \u003Cem\u003Eshāngxīn liángfěn\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or “sad jelly noodles”, is said to be so named because the strong málà flavours will bring tears to your eyes. “If you’re sad, and you eat some of those jelly noodles, you won’t be sad anymore,” said Luo. “You’ll be dripping sweat and feel reinvigorated, as if you just vented any negative feelings.” One might say Sichuan’s málà flavour is the gastronomic encapsulation of life’s ebb and flow: alternating discomfort and contentment, taking turns to reign over the senses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBack at home and craving Chengdu’s potent flavours, I thought about what Luo said as I tucked into a steaming bowl of \u003Cem\u003Emapo tofu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (or “pock-marked grandmother’s tofu”, so named because it was first served by a Chengdu grandmother in the 1800s with smallpox scars. It’s a pungent dish of tofu and pork swirled with fermented broad bean paste, chillies and, of course, Sichuan peppercorn. The frenzy of flavours set off firecrackers on my tongue, quietened moments later by the welcome sensation of numbness. But, as I learned in Chengdu, there’s an addictive quality to that one-two punch. The chillies didn’t wait long before beckoning me for another bite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-24"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-11-11T21:02:21Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Sichuan peppercorn: A Chinese spice so hot it cools","headlineShort":"A Chinese spice so hot it cools","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"It’s one of the key ingredients in Chinese “málà” cooking, and its effects are said to be both physiological and mental.","summaryShort":"Its effects are said to be both physiological and mental","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:57:31.036641Z","entity":"article","guid":"6b56a586-1cea-407d-a4fe-f8ec730af12a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:18:05.578986Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396247},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour","_id":"62b420371f4b7b27de56e1ce","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The ancestral sauce of black tucupi is making its way onto the menus of some of South America’s best restaurants, bringing a new sense of pride to an age-old tradition.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt all started with a bottle of chilli sauce. It was so fiery it makes my eyes water just thinking about it. I had bought it in 2014 from an old woman in Paraitepuy, a Venezuelan village near the base of Monte Roraima. It was the end of a seven-day hike up the table-top mountain, a sacred place for the local Pemon people, from which waterfalls spill over the edge in dizzying vertical drops. The sauce came home with me where it stayed, lurking unused in my kitchen cupboard for the next four years as it was far too hot for my palate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Some people compare it to soy, some to Worcestershire sauce, but chefs simply see it as something unique","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA couple of years later, I discovered that this sauce was in fact black tucupi, a thick, dark sauce rich in the satisfying savouriness of umami, the so-called “fifth flavour”. Little-known beyond indigenous communities in the Amazon, it is being discovered by high-profile chefs in São Paulo, Lima, Bogotá and even Paris. Curious to know more, I began to dig into its origins, and what emerged was a tale of ancestral wisdom, rare Amazonian languages, poison and layers of intrigue that thickened, just like the sauce, the deeper I dug.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI am not the first person to be fascinated by black tucupi. The first written record of the sauce dates to 1929, in a posthumous publication by the Italian explorer and ethnographer Ermanno Stradelli: “To my taste, it is the king of sauces,” he wrote, “as much for game as for fish… and to which extraordinary cures can be attributed.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStradelli had discovered black tucupi during one of a number of expeditions deep into the Amazon rainforest in the 1880s and 1890s. The unique flavours of the Amazon enchanted him, as they had the Dutch, English and Portuguese explorers who had been shipping their “discoveries” back to Europe as far back as the 16th Century. When writing about this king of sauces, Stradelli referred to it as \u003Cem\u003Etucupi pixuna\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (pronounced “pishuna”) – \u003Cem\u003Epixuna \u003C\u002Fem\u003Emeaning “black” in Nheengatu, a now-severely endangered language that was spoken all across the Amazon region until the late 1800s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETucupi pixuna\u003Cem\u003E, tucupi negro, kumaji, ají negro, kanyzi pudidy \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eand \u003Cem\u003Ecassareep \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eare all different names for the same sauce. It’s a linguistic register of some of the indigenous nations that still make black tucupi right across the Amazon as far and wide as Guyana, Brazil, Peru, Colombia, Venezuela and Ecuador. “When was black tucupi discovered? Who discovered it? No-one will ever know because it was thousands of years ago,” explained Sandra Baré, from the Baré people that live in the Upper Rio Negro region, one of a handful of ethnic groups who still speak Nheengatu and whose tucupi pixuna is sold in markets around São Gabriel da Cachoeira, on the banks of the Rio Negro.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs for how it is made, that is one question Baré \u003Cem\u003Ecan \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eanswer, and I happily listened to her explain the process as part of a cooking class on manioc, a root vegetable (also known as cassava, or tapioca when in its pure starch form) that is now the staple food for hundreds of millions of people across the world. “Manioc has been sustaining indigenous nations for many years,” said Baré. She detailed the various techniques for turning bitter manioc into breads and flours, as well as the process by which bitter manioc juice is simmered down from a yellow liquid into dark and syrupy black tucupi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“You have to be really careful cooking black tucupi because bitter manioc kills,” Baré warned. “Anyone who drinks the raw juice won’t take two steps before falling down dead.” It turns out bitter manioc is packed with toxic cyanide, and I wonder how many people over the years have literally fallen at that first hurdle. None hopefully, at least not for a couple of millennia, as bitter manioc has been cultivated and cooked (which brings the cyanide down to safe levels) by the Amazon’s indigenous nations as far back as 4,000 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDenise Rohnelt de Araújo, a Brazilian cook and food writer, first came across Stradelli’s reference to tucupi pixuna 10 years ago in História da Alimentação no Brasil, an encyclopaedic register of Brazil’s diverse culinary history that was first published in 1963 by the historian Luís da Câmara Cascudo. She’s been on its trail ever since, collecting samples from all over the Amazon. Late last year, when I visited her home in Boa Vista in Brazil’s northernmost state of Roraima, she presented me with a box full of bottles in all shapes and sizes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190114-why-brazilians-love-baby-talk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Brazilians love baby talk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20120304-guyanas-path-to-paradise\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGuyana's path to paradise\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181127-the-acai-seller-who-got-a-record-deal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe truth about açaí bowls\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When I read Stradelli’s description of this king of sauces, I had to find out more,” de Araújo told me. “There are various different ways to make black tucupi and none of them are the same. The only thing they have in common is that it’s a reduction of bitter manioc juice. Some remove the manioc starch, others don’t. Some are fermented. Others add ants. The Venezuelans add chilli. In Guyana you have clove and cinnamon. Some have a slight bitterness or smokiness. Every ethnic group does it their own way.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBoa Vista was my jumping-off point into the interior of Roraima to see for myself how different indigenous peoples make black tucupi. Here in the heart of the Amazonian savannah on the triple border of Brazil, Venezuela and Guyana, hot, dry air blows across a mainly grassy landscape. At Tabalascada, about 24km outside Boa Vista, a Wapichana community are fighting to preserve their land and their culture. Monoculture crop farming and urban development encroach from all sides. I hiked from the village into the forest with a community leader, Marcolino da Silva, to see their manioc plantation. The young plants were only five months old and nearly twice my height already, with leaves fanning out at the top of thin stems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack in the village, a long table was being laid for lunch under the shade of some tall mango trees with parakeets screeching overhead. The shy but lively 62-year old Dona Carol, da Silva’s mother, is the village expert in making black tucupi, and she busied about bringing dishes to the table and clapping a nosy cockerel away. Everything she laid out was made with manioc, from the bread (\u003Cem\u003Ebeiju\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) to a manioc and fish stew (\u003Cem\u003Edamorida\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) and a jug of boozy fermented manioc (\u003Cem\u003Ecaxiri)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. The prints of trainers, bare feet and animal claws in the dry earth charted the afternoon’s comings and goings, and as the sun started its downward slide and the caxiri went to my head, I eyed up a nearby hammock. Dona Carol has been teaching the younger generation her black tucupi recipe. “They have to learn to do this to not forget our Wapichana culture,” she said. “I am here today but who knows about tomorrow. Death knows no age.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Anyone who drinks the raw juice won’t take two steps before falling down dead","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy next stop, Yupukari, was just over the border in Guyana’s Rupununi region. In a small Macuxi village, home to about 100 families, I was spending three days learning how to make black tucupi. I met the team at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fcaimanhouse.com\u002F\"\u003ECaiman House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an eco-lodge in the village and one of a dozen or so eco-lodges run by indigenous peoples in the interior wilderness of Guyana. Nature lovers come here to explore the “land of the giants”, as it has been called; the world’s largest otters, spiders, anteaters, rodents and eagles can all be spotted here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI had my sights set on black tucupi, however, known in Guyana as\u003Cem\u003E cassareep,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or cassava sauce. This is the only country in the Amazon Basin where black tucupi has made its way into the national cuisine. It’s an essential ingredient in pepperpot, a meat stew in which black tucupi mingles with the cloves and cinnamon of Guyana’s Caribbean heritage. Industrially made cassareep is sold everywhere in Guyana, but I’d come to learn the traditional, artisanal way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy next two days were spent with two local women as they harvested, peeled and grated nearly 100kg of manioc. The grated manioc was stuffed into a plaited palm tube called a \u003Cem\u003Ematapi \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(or \u003Cem\u003Etipiti \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ein Brazil), which looks like the engorged belly of an anaconda before it is stretched out thin, squeezing the manioc juice into a bowl below. Next, the juice rests for a few hours to let the solid starch (tapioca) decant, and the juice was then poured into a cauldron and left to simmer over a wood fire for around four or five hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the meantime, the women transformed the grated manioc into toasted flour and flatbread. A crowd of onlookers shuffled around the space to avoid the smoke as it curled up and around. Things got tense in the final minutes as the simmering manioc juice begins to camarelise, turning red and then dark brown, then as thick as molasses and hastily whipped off the fire before it burned. Once it had cooled we all dipped the flatbread into the sauce and tasted the flavour bomb: intense, sweet and mildly sour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe next day, it was added to a fragrant bowl of \u003Cem\u003Etuma pot\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a traditional fish stew – served for lunch on my last day. I also took a bottle home with me, all the more valuable having seen the backbreaking work in making it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOutside of indigenous communities, black tucupi evangelists in some of South America’s best restaurants are getting excited about its umami potential, glazing meats with it, adding it to dressings, broths and sauces, and even mixing it in Bloody Marys.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn São Paulo, chef Helena Rizzo glazes fish with black tucupi at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmanimanioca.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EManí restaurant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; while Carla Pernambuco served confit duck with a black tucupi sauce at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FCarlota-2320308358205835\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECarlota\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. On the far side of the continent in the Peruvian capital, Lima, high-profile chefs have been experimenting with black tucupi on their menus for a few years already. Their supply, sold in elegant glass bottles in Lima’s upmarket delis, comes from Bora and Huitito women near Iquitos in the Peruvian Amazon thanks to a partnership with NGO \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fdespensamazonica.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDespensa Amazónica\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Pedro Miguel Schiaffino has put it at the heart of his menu at new casual diner \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fboastreetfoodamazonico\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBoa Street Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, infusing tomato sauce, \u003Cem\u003Epirarucu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fish) sausages and smoked pork tacos with its richness; while Gaston Acúrio brushes it on roasted cauliflower at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fen.astridygaston.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAstrid y Gastón\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Black tucupi evangelists in some of South America’s best restaurants are getting excited about its umami potential","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Some people compare it to soy, some to Worcestershire sauce, but chefs simply see it as something unique,” said Joanna Martins, whose Brazilian food company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmaniocabrasil.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EManioca\u003C\u002Fa\u003E sells black tucupi to retailers. She supplies some of Brazil’s top chefs with her version and is testing out the US market, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Wapichana community in Tabalascada has plans to launch a certified, branded version to Brazilian retailers next year. They sell it locally and informally for now but are building up their capacity through a partnership with Brazilian NGO \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.socioambiental.org\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstituto Socioambiental\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (ISA) as well as government funding thanks to Joênia Wapichana (the first indigenous woman to be voted into the Brazilian congress).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Black tucupi is an incredible product that respects the Wapichana way of life and their traditional agricultural systems, and that in turn helps protect biodiversity and the forest,” said ISA’s Amanda Latosinski. “For the youngsters, the chance to earn an income is an incentive to not leave for the city, and to resist the pressures of destructive activities like mining.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s a win-win for the indigenous communities. And it’s a win-win for those who can get their hands on a precious bottle – the chance to try a unique, umami flavour and support a tradition that runs deep into the heart of the Amazon. I can still only handle a few drops at a time of the fiery black tucupi bought all those years ago in Venezuela, but the treacle-like cassareep from Guyana is black gold, used in my cooking as sparingly as my willpower allows.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-11-23T21:43:59Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Amazon’s mouth-watering ‘fifth flavour’","headlineShort":"The Amazon’s staple food that kills","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The ancestral sauce of black tucupi is making its way onto the menus of some of South America’s best restaurants, bringing a new sense of pride to an age-old tradition.","summaryShort":"It’s a story of ancestral wisdom, rare languages and poison","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:58:04.785942Z","entity":"article","guid":"15cf026d-29af-43a7-87c2-5d1c342df0cd","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:18:39.24717Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396247},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete","_id":"62b420391f4b7b32e6399978","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In Brazil, poverty, colonisation and modernism turned beans into the culinary symbol of this continent-sized nation.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn mid-February this year, if it weren't for the pandemic, hordes of Brazilians and travellers would have packed out Carnival street parties and sambadrome parades for five uninterrupted days of music and dancing. Those in Rio or São Paulo would certainly have come across the black bean-based \u003Cem\u003Efeijoada\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, Brazil's flagship stew and an omnipresent meal in south-eastern Carnival celebrations. In Bahia's capital, Salvador, revellers would have likely feasted on \u003Cem\u003Eacarajé\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a typical Afro-Bahian fritter made of black-eyed peas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Ten out of 10 Brazilians prefer beans,\" says the theme song of a 1979 soap opera – not surprisingly, called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fredeglobo.globo.com\u002Fvideos\u002Ft\u002Ftudo-da-globo\u002Fv\u002Ffeijao-maravilha-1979-abertura\u002F2198587\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWonder Bean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Poetic license aside, the truth is there is no food so popular in Brazil as beans. More just than a favoured ingredient, they are the culinary symbol of our national identity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBeans are a source of inspiration for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=dZZgtHUgSEQ\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esongs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvermelho.org.br\u002Fprosa-poesia-arte\u002Fmario-de-andrade-ode-ao-burgues\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epoems\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; and the country registers more than 4,000 varieties, from \u003Cem\u003Efeijão carioca\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (pinto bean; consumed in São Paulo) to \u003Cem\u003Efeijão de corda\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a sub-variety of black-eyed peas, common in the north-eastern state of Ceará) to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fobagastronomia.com.br\u002Fo-fantastico-feijao-manteiguinha-de-santarem\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Efeijão manteiguinha-de-santarém\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is consumed in the Lower Amazon region. As renowned anthropologist Luís da Câmara Cascudo affirmed\u003Cstrong\u003E, \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003Efor Brazilians, a meal without beans is incomplete.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut far from an arbitrary phenomenon, the symbolic power invested in an ordinary legume (whose pods provide the seeds we eat) also tells the story of Brazil's turbulent socio-political history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Amazon's staple food that kills\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200302-the-true-origins-of-the-humble-potato\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow the humble potato changed the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190114-why-brazilians-love-baby-talk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrazil's cute and complex small talk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBefore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-latin-america-19359111\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrazil gained independence\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the 19th Century, its inhabitants had long been feasting on beans. Although the first records of beans date to the 17th Century (one of them in the travelogue of Dutch explorer Johan Nieuhof, who travelled across the territory from 1640 to 1649), Brazil's Indigenous communities were eating the seeds long before colonisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to food sociologist Carlos Dória, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abebooks.co.uk\u002F9788565339278\u002FForma%C3%A7%C3%A3o-Culin%C3%A1ria-Brasileira-Portuguese-Brasil-8565339270\u002Fplp\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Formation of Brazil's Cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a native bean species from Peru (\u003Cem\u003EPhaseolus vulgaris\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, known as \"common bean\") arrived in Brazilian territory from Peru thousands of years ago, washed along in the currents of the Amazon and Solimões rivers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut beans were never a key ingredient in the Indigenous diet. Instead, the popularisations of beans is a post-18th Century phenomenon that is closely related to the history of Brazil's inland colonisation. In order to explore and settle Brazil's interior, settlers needed a legume that was nutritious and easy to grow in all climates, including the semi-arid. That legume was beans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlong with their expansionist ambitions, Portuguese settlers and their descendants brought with them an Iberian bean-eating tradition as well as beans species from the Mediterranean and their African colonies, including the black-eyed pea from West Africa, a region with a similar climate to Brazil's.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of the most famous bean-based recipes, \u003Cem\u003Efeijão tropeiro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (trooper beans; a combination of dry meat, red beans and cassava flour) refers to Brazil's historical \"troopers\" – the men in charge of opening roads and taking much-needed goods, from fabric to salt to soap, into the interior – most notably during the 17th to 19th Centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETypical in the states of São Paulo, Minas Gerais and Goiás, trooper beans reflect the non-perishable solution required for long inland expeditions; what Dória calls the \"dry culinary\" culture, where dry bean dishes meant that the troops didn’t need to cook as frequently. \"Troops were not able to light a fire and heat their food at any time. So, they found a way to mix things up,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENutritious, cheap and easy to grow, beans helped address hunger in a Brazil historically composed of poor and enslaved people. Combined with cassava and, since the late 19th Century, rice, beans have represented the bare minimum to keep Brazilians going through the day. \"Poor used to be someone who didn't even have a bean tree at home,\" said Dória.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs an ingredient long associated with the subsistence of lower-income people, beans have set a clear class division in Brazil. Until the 1920s, elites, a group that included big landowners, bankers and industrialists, would refuse to eat beans in an attempt to distinguish themselves from the rest of the nation. While bean consumption remains prevalent among the poorer these days (\u003Cem\u003Eprato feito\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a basic combination of rice, beans and meat remains the cheapest meal option across Brazilian cities), this class stigma changed after the country's nationalist-modernist project took hold a century ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrom 1922 to 1945, intellectuals and artists realised that rather than mirroring itself on France (once considered a civilisational role model), Brazil needed to define itself from a local perspective. As they sought to create a national identity, anthropologists and sociologists built a narrative around elements that reflected the essence of being Brazilian. The bean-based diet was one of these elements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The modernists had to find an element of otherness, one that distinguished Brazil regarding all the other nations,\" said Adriana Salay Leme, who wrote her master's thesis on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.teses.usp.br\u002Fteses\u002Fdisponiveis\u002F8\u002F8138\u002Ftde-26052015-122424\u002Fpt-br.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBeans, owners of traditions: identity representation and effective consumption in Brazil (1973-2009)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\"Beans represented this identity marker because, at the time of modernism, no other nationality had a food culture as influenced by beans consumption as Brazil's.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There is no food so popular in Brazil as beans… they are the culinary symbol of our national identity","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, travellers to Brazil will undoubtedly come across feijoada (a black bean and pork stew) accompanied by rice, \u003Cem\u003Efarofa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (toasted cassava flour), orange and collard greens. Usually cooked on Saturdays and accompanied by Brazil's flagship drink caipirinha, feijoada is ever-present at samba events, soccer games and even on religious days like Saint George's, the patron of Rio de Janeiro. No wonder it's called the most Brazilian of all dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut the dish doesn't only occupy a special place in local culture because of its flavours. Its immense popularity came about due to modernists promoting the plate as the ultimate synthesis of Portuguese, Indigenous and Afro-diasporic traditions. \"The pork would represent the Portuguese cuisine; the cassava flour would represent the Indigenous food culture; the black beans would represent the colour of the Africans,\" Dória explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe narrative that grounded feijoada's fame, however, has also been subject to criticism: by claiming an ethnically unified nation, it neglects socio-political tensions that have shaped Brazil's history. \"The discourse behind feijoada aims to mitigate social conflicts, such as slavery and class inequalities, in the name of a happy miscegenated Brazil,\" Leme said. \"This discourse aims to erase differences, silence tensions and unify the country towards one same national identity. The consequence of such discourse is that we don't really address the social problems.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDória agrees. When feijoada presents itself as the culinary contribution of Indigenous, blacks and whites, it \"forgets [that] some have been decimated, others have been slaves, and the latter, cruel dominators,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe romanticised feijoada narrative has also led to misconceptions. Most people still believe the narrative that was sold by the intellectual elite in the mid-20th Century: that the dish was invented by enslaved African Brazilians who supposedly improvised amid scarcity by adding leftover pork to black beans. However, according to Câmara Cascudo, who published the anthological \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FHist%C3%B3ria-Alimenta%C3%A7%C3%A3o-Brasil-Em-Portuguese\u002Fdp\u002F8526015834\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHistory of Food in Brazil\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (1967), feijoada, as we know it, was first seen in the eateries, pensions and hotels of 19th-Century Rio de Janeiro.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, feijoada still reigns in Rio, most notably at popular cultural events such as samba circles, where weekend parties at sanctuaries like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcacique_de_ramos\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECacique de Ramos\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fjongodaserrinha\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECasa do Jongo da Serrinha\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Frenascencaclube\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERenascença Clube\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are usually fuelled by a generous caldron of feijoada, with individual portions usually costing between R$15 and R$30.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a sharing plate, feijoada is seen as a social dish – as is the samba experience, where people sing, play and dance looking at each other in a single circle. This is why feijoada and samba go along so well, according to Dória. \"It is served in large amounts, alluding to a gregarious tradition present in the Portuguese, Indigenous and African cultures that have shaped Brazil's society. Feijoada, like samba gatherings, inspires communion,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBeans are vitally important in Afro-Brazilian religions, too. In the rituals of Candomblé (the country's most disseminated Afro-Brazilian religion), beans are the base of many dishes symbolically offered in sacred rituals for the\u003Cem\u003E orixás\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (gods and goddesses). While feijoada is present in some rites, most bean-based recipes in this religion, like acarajé and \u003Cem\u003Eabará\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (another type of fritter), include black-eyed peas and palm oil – a heritage from some of the African cultures that came enslaved to Brazil.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother of the many bean recipes in Candomblé is \u003Cem\u003Eomolokum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a dish made with black-eyed peas, boiled eggs, smoked dried shrimp and onions, that inspired Leila Leão to found \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcasaomolokum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECasa Omolokum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Rio restaurant dedicated to Afro-Brazilian religious cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is the sociological role of beans in a diverse and vast country like Brazil","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt Omolokum, Leão brings the food of the orixás to Rio's gastronomic scene. \"I like to adapt traditional Candomblé recipes and discover new possibilities. It is a delicious alchemy experience to play with beans, an ingredient so rich in flavour, aroma and beauty,\" said the cook, who, as a Candomblé practitioner, had to ask for the orixás' permission to sell the sacred dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite the continued importance of beans in Brazilian culture, however, Brazilians are no longer the massive bean-eaters they used to be. Since the 1970s, their consumption has been declining considerably, with ultra-processed foods gaining space in meals. Even so, their symbolism remains. Beans, as Dória puts it, still represent the common denominator of this continental-sized nation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It's the food through which people either distinguish themselves from each other – whether in terms of status or affection – or get closer to each other,\" he said. \"This is the sociological role of beans in a diverse and vast country like Brazil.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBeatriz Miranda is a Brazilian journalist based in Rio de Janeiro, covering the intersections of culture and social issues in her country.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-06-15T19:01:02Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Where a meal without beans is incomplete","headlineShort":"The dish that defines Brazil","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"22.9068","longitude":"43.1729","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Brazil, poverty, colonisation and modernism turned beans into the culinary symbol of this continent-sized nation.","summaryShort":"More than just a favoured ingredient, beans are a symbol of national identity","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-17T08:58:46.901449Z","entity":"article","guid":"b7b4f0c8-b210-4097-8663-3d1a1bef443f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:29:04.39194Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396248},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper","_id":"62c7738b1f4b7b2be36927e4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjacob-mardell"],"bodyIntro":"With a mouth-numbing effect that's similar to – but stronger than – the Chinese spice, jambu is a potent, electrifying herb that is starting to tingle tastebuds nationwide.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJambu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E takes about three seconds to kick in and then it happens all at once: the prickly buzz of electricity, the numbness, the intense salivation. It's the same unbearable yet pleasurable intensity of chilli pepper, except instead of heat, there's a cool, numbing sensation that takes a long time to subside and leaves you wanting more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe mouth-numbing effects of this Brazilian herb, which has been used in medicine and gastronomy for centuries in the Amazon, are reminiscent of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools\"\u003ES\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eichuan pepper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But while the latter is a staple of Chinese cuisine, jambu has only recently begun tingling tastebuds nationwide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Jambu was so exciting when I first discovered it,\" said Fabio La Pietra, creative director of the award-winning São Paulo cocktail bar \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.subastor.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESubAstor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It opened the door for me to Brazil's incredible biodiversity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJambu, known by the scientific name \u003Cem\u003Eacmella oleracea,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E as well as a range of English-language monikers (including paracress, buzz buttons and electric daisy), grows and looks like a weed. During summer months, however, its mundane appearance is redeemed by tiny, button-like clusters of yellow blooms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese fuzzy flowers contain the highest concentration of the compound responsible for jambu's numbing effects: a fatty acid called \u003Cem\u003Espilanthol. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EThe compound is similar in structure to the active ingredient in Sichuan pepper, though the latter is much milder in effect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckgmn3"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESpilanthol is so potent, in fact, that jambu is also used for medicinal purposes, hence one of its English aliases: \"toothache plant\". Indigenous people have used jambu to treat mouth ulcers and dental problems for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil recently, the herb was almost unknown outside of Brazil's Amazon region, where it is a feature of traditional dishes like \u003Cem\u003Etacacá\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a sour prawn broth in which jambu highlights the sharp, savoury notes of wild cassava roots. Now, buoyed by a wider, growing interest in Brazilian ingredients and products, jambu is beginning to make its way from an obscure regional staple to a national symbol of Brazilian biodiversity. The main push behind this is the recent trend of combining the electric herb with cachaça, a sugarcane spirit that is synonymous with Brazilian culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When people started using jambu I thought, 'wow, about time',\" said Néli Pereira, a São Paulo-based mixologist who has known about jambu for longer than most. \"Of course, in Belém they have been using it forever,\" she continued, referring to the capital of Pará, a state in the north of Brazil through which the lower Amazon river flows to the sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPereira first tasted jambu at a Dona Onete concert in 2014. The Brazilian singer and cultural icon from Pará has a famous song about jambu that includes a deliciously rhythmic repetition of the word \"treme\", meaning \"it trembles\". It was during this song that concert organisers started spraying cachaça jambu into the mouths of willing spectators.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's pop, it's traditional, it's gastronomy, but it's also playful – there's a whole vibe to it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENot only does jambu accentuate the fiery notes of the alcohol, but its numbing properties make jambu cachaça \"interesting to kiss with\", according to Pereira. It is, in other words, the perfect party drink. \"Jambu is everything,\" she said, \"It's pop, it's traditional, it's gastronomy, but it's also playful – there's a whole vibe to it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckgm8m"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELeodoro Porto, proprietor of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbotecomeugaroto\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMeu Garoto\u003C\u002Fa\u003E bar in Belém, is credited with creating the first jambu-infused cachaça back in 2011. While Pereira was an early adopter, incorporating it into cocktail creations after her 2014 concert experience, it was only around 2018 that jambu cachaça brands started cropping up outside of Pará, introducing the herb to a national audience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The last few years have made a lot of difference to jambu,\" said Rodrigo França, co-founder of São Paulo-based drinks brand\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.josbrasil.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E Jós Brasil\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the first cachaça jambu producers outside of Pará.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We know so much about products from other countries, but not about those that are truly Brazilian","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrança and his three co-founders first stumbled upon jambu cachaça in late 2017 while on holiday in Alter do Chão, a freshwater resort town in Pará. \"It was the only bar open and the only drink they had,\" França said. The friends knew nothing about jambu and were blown away by their first collective encounter with its \"trembling\" effect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFailing to find the spirit back home in São Paulo – the world's fourth largest city where just about everything is usually available – they started making their own jambu cachaça at a distillery in the state of São Paulo. However, they were surprised people knew so little about such a quintessentially Brazilian product. \"How come something can be a cultural phenomenon in the north of Brazil, but unknown in São Paulo?\" França asked. \"We know so much about products from other countries, but not about those that are truly Brazilian.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJambu's recent popularity is intimately entwined with a wider, growing interest in Brazilian ingredients and cultural identity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckglw5"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We learned from abroad what is good and what's not,\" said Felipe Jannuzzi, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.brme.com.br\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBR ME\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an online store that specialises in Brazilian ingredients. Jannuzzi continued, \"What was cool was what was foreign, but the younger generation is finding a new cool – we are learning how to appreciate our own culture.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I met him recently at his offices in downtown São Paulo, Jannuzzi excitedly gathered Brazilian coffee, olive oils and botanicals to show me. Next, he poured me a gin he created using a spice called \u003Cem\u003Epacová\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an indigenous equivalent to cardamom. \"You can ask anybody here about it – no one will have heard of it,\" he said. \"We used to use pacová here in Brazil but it was replaced by cardamom from abroad, so I created this gin as a way to talk about Brazilian tradition and diversity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBrazil is the world's biodiversity champion. It is home to more species of plant than anywhere else on the planet, and several incredibly important ecosystems. The Amazon is the rock star, but there is also the Atlantic Forest, which stretches along the coast of Brazil; the Cerrado, a vast tropical savannah twice the size of Egypt; and the Pantanal, the world's largest tropical wetland area. These ecosystems are home to countless unique species of plants, many of which are edible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESabor De Fazenda, a plant nursery in the north of São Paulo, grows a number of these obscure, edible plants, or what are referred to in Brazil as PANCs – an acronym in Portuguese for \"non-conventional edible plants\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFirst coined in 2007 by biologist Valdely Kinupp, PANC has since evolved into a nationwide movement that seeks to elevate the hundreds of species of edible plants that have been squeezed from our diets by industrialised food habits.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ckglnl"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I visited Sabor De Fazenda, Barbara Cordovani, a specialist in edible botanicals, showed me a few stars of the PANC movement that I recognised from menus at trendy restaurants, such as \u003Cem\u003Eora-pro-nóbis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a dark green leaf that has earned the moniker \"poor man's meat\" due to its incredibly high protein content.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Brazilian food, we use aromatic herbs, mostly from the Mediterranean, but we have so many native plants with similar aromas,\" Cordovani said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne example of these substitutes is \u003Cem\u003Ealfavaca anis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. The herb is a favourite of Clarissa Taguchi, founder of PANCS Brasil and another specialist in native Brazilian ingredients. Indigenous to the Atlantic Forest and a relative of basil, alfavaca anis has a more complex, liquorice-like flavour reminiscent of star anise. \"I've fallen in love with many other PANCs since,\" Taguchi said, \"But this was my first.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy substituting native plants for imported ingredients, PANC proponents hope to protect Brazilian biodiversity by celebrating it. Cardovani and Taguchi both credit Brazilians' growing environmental awareness for the current popularity of PANCs. \"People are realising how much food production impacts biodiversity and the environment,\" Taguchi told me, \"so they are sourcing locally.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This movement has started gaining momentum and I don't think it's a trend. It's something that is here to stay","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJambu is only one of countless Brazilian ingredients coming to the fore, but with its signature numbing effect and good-time reputation, it makes a fantastic ambassador for Brazil's biodiversity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's thrilling,\" Jannuzzi said. \"It's a big challenge, but a big opportunity too.\" Pereira shares his optimism. \"This movement has started gaining momentum and I don't think it's a trend,\" she said, \"it's something that is here to stay.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-08T08:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Brazil's answer to the Sichuan pepper","headlineShort":"A herb so spicy it anaesthetises","image":["p0ckgmsh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-23.533773","longitude":"-46.625290","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0ckgmsh"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201122-the-amazons-mouth-watering-fifth-flavour","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210614-in-brazil-a-meal-without-beans-is-incomplete"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With a mouth-numbing effect that's similar to – but stronger than – the Chinese spice, jambu is a potent, electrifying herb that is starting to tingle tastebuds nationwide.","summaryShort":"It has a strange mouth-numbing effect and a good-time reputation","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fcultural-traditions"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-07T23:59:54.403046Z","entity":"article","guid":"fcd6963b-b32e-4e94-be71-c0faa9d9552f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-08T11:21:20.314635Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbrazil","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-america"],"destinationStat":"south-america_brazil_south-america","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396247},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border","_id":"62bb95f11f4b7b4c5c68f524","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Perhaps the world's most complicated boundary, a narrow bike trail offers a window into a region that has been the battleground of Europe and is where culture and geography intersect.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENicolai Meyer stepped away from his restaurant's deep fryer to offer a quick lesson in geography.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're in Belgium,\" he explained, then pointed through the window. \"The road is Germany. Then it's Belgium. Then Germany.\" The entire area he described spanned perhaps 50m.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI picked up one of his chips, which he assured me was a true Belgium \u003Cem\u003Efrite\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, dipped it in mayonnaise and took a bite as I tried to make sense of this patchwork quilt borderland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat may be the world's most complicated boundary centres on a narrow ribbon of bike trail. Its history offers a window into a region that at times has been the battleground of Europe and an area where culture and geography intersect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe cycling route follows an 1899 railroad called the Vennbahn, or Fens Railway, which connects the city of Aachen, Germany, with Luxembourg. Built by Germany's Prussian State Railway to haul coal, iron and steel, the railway fuelled industrial growth and prospered through World War One, when it was used to carry military supplies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen hostilities ended, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fevent\u002FTreaty-of-Versailles-1919\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E1919 Treaty of Versailles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E awarded Belgium contested German land, along with the railroad and its tracks that connected it. That included a 28km corridor that left several pockets of German land completely cut off from the rest of the country. One section was annexed by Belgium and later returned to Germany in 1958, but five others remain as enclaves – a territory completely surrounded by another territory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, one of the enclaves created by the Vennbahn covers just 1.5 hectares and contains a single farm. Others include small towns or sections of villages, the biggest covering about 1,800 hectares.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the latter part of the 20th Century, traffic died down on the once-crucial rail line and a preservation group briefly tried to operate a tourist railroad. But in 2013, the former railway found new life when it was dedicated as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vennbahn.eu\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E125km paved bike path\u003C\u002Fa\u003E stretching through Germany, Belgium and Luxembourg. Cyclists now come from across Europe to pedal past medieval towns, nature reserves and misty farm fields dissected by centuries-old hedgerows. They also marvel at the preposterous border they're weaving in and out of. But the locals rarely pay attention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's crazy – crossing the border for frites","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChristian Strutz, a banker who lives in Germany, said it doesn't register that he's leaving his country when he drops by Meyer's restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FNickis-Imbiss-168000860462574\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENicki's Imbiss\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in German-speaking east Belgium. \"It's very normal for us,\" he said, then stopped for a moment to think about it. \"It's crazy – crossing the border for frites.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, life generally flows smoothly across the international boundaries, thanks largely to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-13194723\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchengen Treaty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which, when implemented in 1995, eliminated most internal European border controls. In one area, a German bus stops on a Belgian street to pick up passengers. In another, a postman must pass through Belgium every day to reach a German subdivision of small homes, and to pick up parcels left in a canary-yellow Deutsche Post mailbox.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut during the global pandemic, residents were reminded once again that they were straddling two nations. Inevitably, the Belgium and German responses to Covid-19 didn't completely align, which meant on some days proof of vaccine could be required for dining on one side of the border, but not the other.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough it seems isolated, this region has repeatedly found itself at the crossroads of history. Charlemagne ruled his medieval empire from Aachen, where the Vennbahn begins. Later, Napoleon ordered the construction of a road linking towns that would eventually be connected by the railway. Hitler seized the region and rail line in 1940, and cyclists can still see the \"dragon's tooth\" concrete barriers that were part of the defences erected by the Third Reich to stop the advance of Allied tanks. Four years later, US troops fought their way past the barriers and reached what is today the enclave of Roetgen, which became the first German village liberated during World War Two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter the war, the area saw action of another sort. Locals found they could make a tidy profit by smuggling coffee beans from Belgium into Germany, where the prices were three times higher, giving the region a new nickname, the \"sinful frontier\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome carried the contraband across the High Fens, a preserved region of wetlands not far from the Vennbahn that's known for its moody weather and porous border. But most the smuggling centred on Mutzenich, one of the Vennbahn enclaves. The town now honours the criminals with a bronze statue of a man with a sack of coffee over his back crouching behind a rock in the middle of the road. Over a five-year period, the smugglers carried more than 1,000 tons of coffee across the border, bringing badly needed cash into an area impoverished by WW2.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMayor Jaqueline Huppertz, whose father was involved in the illegal trade, jokingly calls the activity an \"early type of regional development\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The coffee carriers played an increasingly brazen cat-and-mouse game with authorities","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe coffee carriers played an increasingly brazen cat-and-mouse game with authorities that sounds straight out of a Hollywood thriller. Men would travel by foot, bicycle and car, even stowing coffee beans in an ambulance and a hearse. When police gave chase, the smugglers dropped sharpened metal spikes on the roadway to stop the pursuit. The German authorities, who were using specially equipped, high-speed vehicles, responded by attaching a plough to the front of their cars to clear the hazards, a creation locals called a \"broom Porsche\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, about 50 of Mutzenich's citizens were caught and imprisoned near Cologne; a blow to the small town, which lost its economic livelihood and a such a large chunk of its male population that its municipal football team couldn't compete because it lacked players. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMany of the smugglers had donated money to help rebuild Mutzenich's war-damaged church, and the town's Catholic priest visited the inmates in prison to plead for their release. \"Even today, this church is popularly known as St Mocha,\" the mayor said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, the men received reduced sentences, possibly because German authorities realised that the town might eventually vote in a referendum to join Belgium, Huppertz explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the border is wide open, and the only indication you are entering a different country might be an easily overlooked street sign. Along the side of the Vennban, an occasional concrete marker sticks out of the weeds, marked B on one side and D on the other, abbreviations for Belgium and Deutschland. But the most convoluted border is the stretch near Meyer's chip shop in Raeren, Belgium.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter eating my share of frites, I embarked on an international journey, stepping off the pavement to briefly leave Belgium and then dart across German Highway 258 to reach the Vennbahn, which put me back into Belgium again. I entered a trailside restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kaffeefee-roetgen.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKaffeefee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which gets its electricity and water from Germany, although the business is regulated and licensed by Belgium. Café owners Waltraud and Norbert Siebertz live another 200m further east in Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWaltraud said most of her customers are typically cyclists who have no idea where they are. \"The criss-crossing and zig-zagging is quite a surprise to them – in a special way. They think they're illegally crossing the border.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter she serves them a beer or cappuccino and perhaps a cherry strudel, she offers the riders a bit of advice. Although the trail itself is in Belgium, they're actually much closer to German cities and services. \"If they have an accident, I tell them they should roll to the German side,\" she said, \"because the ambulance will come faster.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPlaces That Don't Belong\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-29T10:21:52Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The world's weirdest border?","headlineShort":"The world's weirdest border?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.6479887","longitude":"6.1813807","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Perhaps the world's most complicated boundary, a narrow bike trail offers a window into a region that has been the battleground of Europe and is where culture and geography intersect.","summaryShort":"It's been nicknamed the \"sinful frontier\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-28T23:59:27.642867Z","entity":"article","guid":"2387e77b-3cc6-44da-bcc6-02864eb91e63","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-30T16:05:08.212247Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396248},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b2e4c481bd2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Geographically, Spain's Val d'Aran should be part of France, but it's neither French, Spanish nor Catalan in culture, history or even language.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBorders are supposed to be simple in the Pyrenees. On the southern side of the mountain range, you're in Spain. On the northern side, you're in France. Visit Val d'Aran, though, and geopolitics takes a more complicated turn. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVal d'Aran is on the wrong side of the mountains. Geographically, this small mountain valley with its population of 10,000 people should be in France. But Val d'Aran is the only community within Spain's contiguous borders that's located on the northern slopes of the Pyrenees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOfficially, Val d'Aran is within the administrative boundaries of Catalonia, but despite being caught between larger kingdoms and nation-states for centuries, Val d'Aran has never surrendered its local identity. Key to that local identity is the Aranese language, which alongside Catalan and Spanish, is officially recognised as the third language of Catalonia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We are Aranese because we speak Aranese,\" said Jusèp Loís Sans Socasau passionately, when I stepped into his office in Vielha, Val d'Aran's capital. It was early December and there was an ever-thickening layer of snow as the valley prepared for ski season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Aranese is the language of our valley,\" Sans Socasau added. \"And it's the language of our culture.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Vilac town in Val d'Aran decorated with flowers during summer","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESans Socasau is the president of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.institutestudisaranesi.cat\u002F\"\u003EInstitut d'Estudis Aranese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Institute of Aranese Studies) and his office was stacked with historical manuscripts and Aranese dictionaries and novels. \"Aranese is a Romance-based language,\" he explained, as I warmed up with a fresh coffee. \"It's very close to Latin, but it's evolved very differently to Spanish and French.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAranese is a distinct dialect of the Occitan language, which, in its medieval heyday, was spoken from the Pyrenees to Piedmont, located in what is now northern Italy. \"This was the territory of the Occitan language,\" Sans Socasau said proudly, pointing at a historical map. \"And it was the territory of the Troubadours\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEurope's strange border anomaly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwitzerland's mysterious fourth language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny 'country' between England and Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the 11th and 12th Centuries, there was an explosion of Occitan poetry across Europe. The language was spread far and wide by Troubadours, Occitan-speaking poets and writers who composed and performed medieval romances. Even Richard I of England – better known as Richard the Lionheart, and who held lands in France – spoke Occitan as a first language (his mother, Eleanor of Aquitaine, came from an Occitan speaking region). In later centuries, though, Occitan would be replaced by other languages, and in southern France, where there are still tens of thousands of Occitan speakers, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180911-occitan-the-language-the-french-forbade\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe language has never been made official or \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180911-occitan-the-language-the-french-forbade\"\u003Eafforded government protections\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Val d'Aran, the Occitan language survived as Aranese, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fllengua.gencat.cat\u002Fweb\u002F.content\u002Fdocuments\u002Fdadesestudis\u002Faltres\u002Farxius\u002Fdossier_eulp-2018_aranes.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egovernment figures suggest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that around 4,000 Val d'Aran residents – about 40% of the population – can read, write and speak Aranese. Despite being suppressed most recently during the Francisco Franco regime, which lasted until the dictator's death in 1975, Aranese received official recognition when Val d'Aran was granted autonomy by the Catalonian government in 1991. And in 2010, Aranese was proclaimed to be co-official alongside Spanish and Catalan, not just in Val d'Aran, but everywhere in Catalonia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchool children in Val d'Aran study in Aranese; there's a wealth of Aranese literature and articles; and radio shows and news programmes are broadcast in the language. \"The language still lives here, in our valley,\" said Sans Socasau, whose daughter tours across Europe singing and songwriting solely in the Aranese language. \"And this is the only place where the language is protected, where it is official.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Val d'Aran town with mountain view in the background","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESince Val d'Aran is separated from the rest of Spain by the Pyrenees, my six-hour winter bus ride from Barcelona was only possible thanks to a 5km-long tunnel through the mountains that opened in 1948. When I arrived, snow capped the mountain tops that surround Vielha, while the buildings, with their pitched roofs, were distinctly different from the flat roofs of Catalonia's capital. All things considered, \"remote\" seemed like a good descriptor, and surely, I thought, this remoteness was a cause for the survival of the Aranese language.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Val d'Aran has always been a place of trade. It's a valley of communication, not of isolation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECarla del Valle, an expert in medieval studies and director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitmuseum.gencat.cat\u002Fen\u002Fmuseu-dera-val-d-aran\"\u003EMusèu \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitmuseum.gencat.cat\u002Fen\u002Fmuseu-dera-val-d-aran\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edera Val d'Aran\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, told me otherwise. \"Traditionally, it's said that Val d'Aran is an isolated place and that's why we've preserved our unique culture,\" she said. \"But that's not actually true, because Val d'Aran has always been a place of trade. It's a valley of communication, not of isolation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDel Valle – whose surname means, \"of the valley\" – explained how Aranese has survived despite the influence of other languages, of which there are many in Val d'Aran. Del Valle, like most Aranese I met in the valley, is a polyglot. She joked how she spoke four and a half languages: Aranese, Catalan, Spanish, English and a bit of French.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the museum, information boards were written in three languages, Aranese, Catalan and Spanish. Displayed next to one another, the similarities and differences between the three Romance languages became more apparent. The most obvious difference was in the prepositions. For example, the phrase \"Artistic Legacy\" was written in Spanish as \"El Legado Artistico\". In Catalan, this became \"El Llegat Artistic\", while in Aranese, it was \"Eth Legat Artistic\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDel Valle explained that before the tunnel connecting Val d'Aran to Spain was built, the Aranese always looked to France for trade. Until the 18th-Century French Revolution, Val d'Aran was also religiously administered by bishops from the Diocese of Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges in France.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Houses of Vielha along the Garona River at sunset","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPolitically, though, Val d'Aran has for centuries been aligned with Spanish kingdoms, who were always looking to conquer the gateway to Catalonia. Fiercely independent, Val d'Aran played larger kingdoms against each other and always pledged its allegiance to the ruler that allowed the valley the most privileges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1313, Val d'Aran signed the Querimonia, a Magna-Carta like document that granted the valley semi-independence. The Querimonia was drawn upon in 1991, when Val d'Aran was again re-granted its historical right to self-rule after being integrated into Catalonia in the 19th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's all very game of thrones,\" said del Valle with a laugh. \"The history of Val d'Aran can be simplified to fighting and then negotiating. Always trying to remain independent. But we weren't quite as successful as Andorra. They succeeded there, and they are still independent. And they now pay less taxes than us!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Aranese flag was flying proudly outside the offices of the Conselh Generau d'Aran\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E the local autonomous government, where I met with Juan Manuel Morell, who works for the local tourism board. He explained how geography has not only shaped Val d'Aran's history, but has shaped what it means to be Aranese.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Here, it's all about the mountains and snow,\" Morell said. Val d'Aran has an Atlantic climate rather than a Mediterranean climate, a result of the River Garona flowing through the valley on its long journey to Bordeaux where it eventually empties into the Atlantic Ocean. \"Val d'Aran is the only Atlantic facing valley in all of Catalonia,\" he added. \"And that makes you different.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo experience the region's mountain culture firsthand, Marta Peruga, who works in Vielha's tourist information office, recommended visiting the village of Bagergue, which, at an altitude of 1,424m, is the highest village in Catalonia. \"Get off the bus in Salardu,\" she told me. \"Then take the walking trail to Bagergue. It's a beautiful walk, even in the snow, and at the top you can try the cheese!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Village of Unha with church tower and stone houses in front of mountain","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the hiking trail was snowed under when I jumped off the bus. Without snowshoes or cross-country skis, I took the 2km-long tarmacked road instead. Churches rise high above every village in Val d'Aran, and there was one standing tall at the entrance to Bagergue. Constructed in a local Romanesque style that was popular in the Middle Ages, Val d'Aran's churches were built not only as places of worship, but as castles, watchtowers and fortifications designed to guard the frontier.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBagergue is home to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.quesosdelvalledearan.com\u002F\"\u003Ethe highest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.quesosdelvalledearan.com\u002F\"\u003E-\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.quesosdelvalledearan.com\u002F\"\u003Ealtitude cheese shop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Catalonia, where local producers have revived a traditional mountain recipe that's regained its popularity throughout Val d'Aran; while testament to the weather and the alpine-esque culture, the villages I'd walked past to reach Bagergue – Salardu and Unha – had a museum dedicated to Pyrenean exploration and a museum solely dedicated to snow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMorell said that as much as 92% of the valley's economy relies on tourism: hiking, mountain biking and rafting in the summer; and snow sports in the winter. Despite its official status and legal protections, Sans Socasau had mentioned that increasing tourism and immigration in Val d'Aran was resulting in Aranese being slowly being pushed out by larger languages like Spanish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Not enough people speak Aranese,\" Sans Socasau said. \"Only around 20% of people in Val d'Aran speak the language regularly, at home. The language is in danger, and in 20 or 30 years, it might not even exist.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDel Valle sees things differently. Even if she speaks Spanish or Catalan as a way to communicate with tourists or newcomers, she also speaks Aranese at work, and she knows the second generation of migrant families settling in Val d'Aran all learn and are taught in Aranese at school. Indeed, the government estimates that around 80% of people who live in the valley understand Aranese, even if they don't always speak it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"If you talk to the president of the Aranese language society,\" del Valle told me, \"he will say that Aranese is about to die. But Aranese is an official language in \u003Cem\u003Eall \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eof Catalonia. That gives our language some power, and even though we might speak Catalan or Spanish in the valley to understand each other, I don't think Aranese is in danger, at least not anytime soon.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-18T20:43:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Aranese: Spain's little-known language","headlineShort":"The Spanish town lost in France","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"42.7440","longitude":"0.7913","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Geographically, Spain's Val d'Aran should be part of France, but it's neither French, Spanish nor Catalan in culture, history or even language.","summaryShort":"It has been caught between larger kingdoms and nation-states for centuries","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-17T20:43:22.372366Z","entity":"article","guid":"c9716d5c-c50d-4876-8109-af3f69151067","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:20.796032Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396248},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity","_id":"62b420331f4b7b2e3b5775d5","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Surrounded by Switzerland, but owned by Germany, the tiny enclave of Büsingen am Hochrhein has managed a binational existence for centuries.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites. Click \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fbest-of-bbc-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E for the full list).\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn 1 August, Switzerland’s National Day, summer holidaymakers are out in force. Flotillas of rafts and canoes bob along the Rhine River, sunbathers lay out on the grassy shore, and on the largely empty streets an occasional public bus rumbles by, decorated for the festivities with Switzerland’s familiar red flag with a white cross.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s a perfect holiday scene, except for one nagging detail. All this merrymaking marking the anniversary of Switzerland’s confederation is taking place in Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Our spirit and heart are Swiss","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“To make holidays here, it’s attractive,” explained Roland Güntert, deputy mayor of the town of Büsingen am Hochrhein in Germany. “This is just something you do. Our spirit and heart are Swiss.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe reason? This tiny spot of Germany is entirely surrounded by Switzerland, which makes it both an enclave and exclave, geographic oddities to trivia fans, but confounding to everyone else.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor the cartographically curious, an enclave is a territory or section of a territory completely surrounded by another entity – a prime example is the tiny nation of Lesotho encircled by South Africa. It’s closely related to an exclave: a portion of a territory separated from its main part by another territory. Büsingen meets both definitions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181014-uupis-a-tiny-republic-of-free-spirits\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny ‘nation’ you’ve never heard of\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEurope’s strange border anomaly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171105-the-us-canada-border-runs-through-this-tiny-library\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA town split between two countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe village’s eastern border lies a mere 700m from the rest of the Federal Republic of Germany. And while politically this town of about 1,450 inhabitants belongs to Germany, economically it’s part of Switzerland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJust like Switzerland, Büsingen operates outside of the European Union, and the town has been cited as a model for post-Brexit cooperation. Three years ago, a politician representing Belfast South suggested that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.irishtimes.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld\u002Fuk\u002Fa-few-in-westminster-begin-looking-at-border-controls-1.2730262\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorthern Ireland could be granted a special customs status\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, similar to the one governing Büsingen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs with Büsingen and Switzerland, there would be limited customs or immigration controls between Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland, proposed MP Alasdair McDonnell, meaning that Northern Ireland could leave the EU with Brexit but remain tied to the Republic of Ireland. “There is a precedent for this in the German town of Büsingen,” he said in a speech. Others, however, aren’t convinced, countering that the hamlet of Büsingen is hardly a stand-in for Northern Ireland, which has a population topping 1.8 million.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGüntert says at its heart, Büsingen’s arrangement is pretty simple. “We have German laws and German government, and on the other part, we have the Swiss economy.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENowhere is the division more evident than at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.waldheim-buesingen.ch\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERestaurant Waldheim\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A line painted across its outdoor dining terrace marks the international border, so it’s possible to be served a plate of schnitzel in Switzerland, and then reach into Germany to grab a stein of beer from the other side of the table.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStill, for residents, living a binational life brings up daily contradictions and choices. Although commerce is typically conducted in Swiss francs and most residents work in nearby, larger Swiss towns, they still must pay the higher German income taxes. Children go to a local (German) primary school, but parents decide in which country they’ll attend high school. Likewise, Büsingen locals have both German and Swiss postal and international telephone codes: callers can dial either Germany’s +49 or Switzerland’s +41, and still ring a resident. And perhaps most notably, the town’s football club is the only German team allowed to play in the Swiss league.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was all an adjustment for Sarah Biernat, who lives 30 minutes away in Singen, Germany, and crosses multiple international borders during her daily commute to Büsingen. She knew nothing about the area, having come to the town only once as a child for a dental appointment. Then, 11 years ago, she took a job at Büsingen’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Falte-rheinmuehle.ch\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlte Rheinmühle hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and on her first day of work found herself giving a customer change in Swiss francs. “It was like play money to me,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven a decade later, the town still feels and sounds Swiss to her. “They talk like the Switzer. Their German is different.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs with most of the globe’s enclaves and exclaves, there’s quite a backstory behind this territorial identity crisis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Büsingen, the problem began in 1693, long before Germany existed. The village was under Austrian control when a family feud over religious allegiance led to the kidnapping of the Catholic-leaning feudal lord of Büsingen. His cousins hauled him to the nearby Swiss (and Protestant) town of Schaffhausen, where he was sentenced to life in prison. It took six years and the threat of Austria invading Schaffhausen to finally free the lord.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They said it would never go back to Switzerland – never, ever, ever","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA few decades later, when Austria sold its local holdings to the Swiss canton of Zurich, it held on to Büsingen – strictly out of spite, according to historians. “They said it would never go back to Switzerland. Never, ever, ever,” the deputy mayor said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat meant that when parts of the Austrian Empire were later absorbed by Germany in the 19th Century, Büsingen was claimed by the new republic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe orderly Swiss tried to clear up the mess in 1919 when it held a referendum that saw Büsingen residents voting by 96% to leave Germany. But Berlin wasn’t interested in giving the town up because Switzerland offered nothing in return.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven in the chaos of World War Two, the arrangement remained. Before German soldiers could return home to Büsingen on leave, they had to check their guns at the border and cover up their military uniform with a cape, said Güntert, whose relatives served in the German army. After the war, the division continued, turning daily shopping trips into an exercise in global trade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It was complicated,” said Elizabeth Arpke, who grew up in the area but was visiting Büsingen for the holiday. “When you bought meat in Germany, you’d have to cross the border [into Switzerland] and fill out forms.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFinally, in 1967, Germany and Switzerland agreed to add Büsingen to the Swiss customs area, which removed border controls and checkpoints around the village of less than 8 sq km.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the problem is taxes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBecause the cost of living is higher in Switzerland than Germany, Büsingen residents typically earn larger salaries than their fellow countrymen. But since Germany has a higher tax rate, workers end up paying more than their Swiss neighbours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf course, there’s a flip side too. Taxi driver Caroline Major estimates her rent is 50% less in Büsingen than if she lived a few kilometres away in Switzerland. She relocated from the German town of Friedberg two years ago and couldn’t be happier. “I love my life. There’s good energy here. It’s so, so nice here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOthers have discovered that too. Because Germany offers a tax break for pensioners, Büsingen attracts retired Swiss residents. The result: “The young people go to Switzerland, and the old people come here. The village gets older every day,” said Rainer Krause, whose daughter runs Restaurant Waldheim on the international border.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPolitics aside, Büsingen makes for a lovely Rhine Valley getaway.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThose intrigued by Büsingen’s centuries-old spat can hike a well-marked path, which the town interchangeably calls the Enclave or Exclave Trail. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.buesingen.de\u002Fde\u002FFreizeit-Tourismus\u002FExklavenweg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 11-stop excursion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E takes in river views, international border markers and even a vineyard, where terraces of German Riesling and Pinot Noir grapes ripen before they’re trucked a few kilometres away to be made into Swiss wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps the trail’s first stop, a town hall mural on the village’s main street, explains it best: a smiling worker holds a pole flying a German flag, while a Swiss one sticks out of his jacket pocket.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite the confusion of living in a no-man’s land, life seems pretty good here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe deputy mayor notes how his village is ideally located under an hour by train from Zurich airport and a 10-minute bus ride to the Swiss town of Schaffhausen. As he sips an espresso at an outdoor cafe overlooking the Rhine, he points to the river where he played as a child and across the bank to the forest, a nature preserve protected from development.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe town, he says, “is like paradise” – another place, it’s worth noting, whose borders have never quite been defined.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-09-23T14:47:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Germany’s tiny geographic oddity","headlineShort":"Germany’s tiny geographic oddity","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Surrounded by Switzerland, but owned by Germany, the tiny enclave of Büsingen am Hochrhein has managed a binational existence for centuries.","summaryShort":"The small enclave of Büsingen has managed a binational existence for centuries","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:37:50.727171Z","entity":"article","guid":"d2088c89-db70-4810-a629-0855d9ec2899","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:56:54.383818Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396249},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities","_id":"62c5f67b1f4b7b40a05b5554","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran"],"bodyIntro":"Pheasant Island, located between France and Spain, bizarrely changes countries twice a year. But why?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFrom the sublime viewpoints above \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sansebastianturismoa.eus\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESan Sebastián\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the Basque Country, a hiker can see one of the world's oldest, most romantic, most biblical of paths. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190411-the-camino-de-santiagos-ancient-secret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECamino de Santiago pilgrimage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E passes this way, and the Homerian traverse to Saint James' tomb in the far western corner of northern Spain is well-trodden, proselytising many and capturing minds for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EEach year, long-distance hikers and pilgrims come here in their hundreds of thousands, but I was not one of them. Instead of the cracked valleys winding towards churches, my destination was somewhere else entirely. A strange, uninhabited place called Pheasant Island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ELooking to understand Spain's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftourism.euskadi.eus\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBasque Country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E better, I accidentally stumbled upon the two-acre sliver of land while browsing through illustrated maps of the Western Pyrenees. Sheltered in the borderlands between \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hendaye-tourisme.fr\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHendaye, France\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftourism.euskadi.eus\u002Fen\u002Ftowns\u002Firun\u002Faa30-12375\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIrun, Spain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, on the Bidasoa river flowing to the Bay of Biscay, the perplexing island is presided over by each nation for six months in turn and is a historical record of the rivalry between the countries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBorder irregularities are found throughout Europe – and the world – but a 200m-long island that swaps countries biannually is unfathomably odd. And few, curiously, know much about Pheasant Island at all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj91kl"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI learnt this much before I arrived to see the mysterious island for myself this spring. I was in the company of P\u003Cstrong\u003Eí\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003Ea Alkain Sorondo, an archaeologist who now leads \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bidatour.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewalking tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the region, and, like most people in this part of Spain, she feels a duty to keep the histories of the Basque Country alive. No matter how unusual they might be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"I love telling the story of our heritage,\" Sorondo told me, as we strolled along the French-Spanish border east of San Sebastián, and, in a way, back in time. Behind us was a collection of industrial lots, apartments and tapas-like \u003Cem\u003Epinxtos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E bars, but in front of us were archaeological Roman remains of an ancient bridge and the bygone island itself. \"There is medieval history hidden all along this riverbank, but most people walk by here without knowing any of it. That's what I'm trying to change.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"To learn the backstory here is like a discovery. It is almost a ghost island","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhen we reached our destination, a riverside park facing the isle, we were greeted by a sight like few others. Pheasant Island, browed with trees and elliptical in shape, lies just 10m from the Spanish side of the river and 20m from the French. It's of such historical importance that it's only rarely opened to visitors. At the centre was an enormous, inscribed monolith, shaped like a cenotaph, that gave a sense of the weight of centuries of history to the place. Tomb-like and grandstanding, it commemorates the meeting where the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fevent\u002FPeace-of-the-Pyrenees\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETreaty of the Pyrenees\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was negotiated in 1659.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"To learn the backstory here is like a discovery,\" Sorondo told me. \"It is almost a ghost island.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThroughout history, there has been a succession of different monikers for Pheasant Island. For starters, today's name – Isla de los Faisanes in Spanish, Faisai Uhartea in Basque, Île des Faisans in French – is a mistake. \"There are no pheasants on Pheasant Island,\" complained French novelist Victor Hugo when he visited in 1843. In fact, there are only green crested mallards and migratory birds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj91j9"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn Roman times, the island was known as \"Pausoa\", the Basque word for passage or step. Then the French translated this as \"Paysans\", meaning peasant, before transposing it as \"Faisans\", for pheasant. Over time, the name Île des Faisans stuck.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe humble island finally came into prominence in 1648, following a ceasefire at the end of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fm0001fv2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThirty Years' War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E between France and Spain, when it was chosen as a neutral space to demarcate the new borderlands. In fact, 24 summits took place, with military escorts on standby should talks breakdown. Eleven years later, the Treaty of the Pyrenees peace accord was struck.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ETo honour the occasion, a royal wedding was mooted, and, in 1660, French King Louis XIV married the daughter of King Philip IV, Maria Theresa of Spain, on the spot of the declaration. Wooden bridges were built to ease passage, royal parties arrived in state barges and carriages, and tapestries and paintings were commissioned. Diego Velázquez, court painter to Philip and whose magnum opus remains \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museodelprado.es\u002Fen\u002Fthe-collection\u002Fart-work\u002Flas-meninas\u002F9fdc7800-9ade-48b0-ab8b-edee94ea877f\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELas Meninas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a portrait of Margaret Theresa with her maids of honour) was put in charge of arranging much of the festivities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ESo symbolic was Pheasant Island as a metaphor of peace, in fact, that it was decided both countries would have joint custody of the territory. Spain would hold stewardship from 1 February to 31 July each year, while Pheasant Island would become an official part of France for the other six months. In that moment, the world's smallest condominium was born.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBy definition, condominiums are places determined by the presence of at least more than one sovereign state. The sense is derived from Latin, with \"com\" implying \"together\" and \"dominium\" meaning \"right of ownership\". And over the centuries, numerous countries have become embroiled in geographic tug o' wars over condominiums, with governments spending decades happily arguing the finer points of who owns what and why. Most aren't centres of empire, but rather experimental, geopolitical addendums.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj91hz"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAt least for now, there are eight in the world, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bodensee.eu\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake Constance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the tridominium between Austria, Germany and Switzerland; the Brčko District shared by Bosnia and Herzegovina; and the disputed territory of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vladars.net\u002Feng\u002FPages\u002Fdefault.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERepublika Srpska\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Then there is the Joint Regime Area, a shared maritime zone between Colombia and Jamaica; and the Abyei Area contested by South Sudan and Sudan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother is the Moselle river and its tributaries the Sauer and the Our – a riverine condominium shared between Germany and Luxembourg; while the Gulf of Fonseca is a tripartite condominium portioned up by Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua. Antarctica is the last but also the largest and most momentous, a theoretical continental condominium, governed by the 29 signatories of the Antarctic Treaty that have consulting status.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOn the day of my visit to Pheasant Island, the territory was in the hands of the Spanish. A group of kayakers was exploring its nooks from the water, and, on land, only one passer-by stopped to take photographs. Besides administering the gardening, maintaining the boat landing site, discussing fishing rights and monitoring the water quality, there isn't much for the Spanish to do on a month-to-month basis. Visitors  are only allowed onto the island on rare occasions: either on one of the bi-annual handover days, when the island is abuzz with activity during the official ceremony, with flags, delegates, diplomats and plenty of formal pomp; or as part of ad-hoc, occasional heritage tours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOne alarming development reverberating around the border communities, however, is the number of immigrants trying to illegally cross the river from Spain into France. The day before I arrived, a foreign national had drowned while attempting to swim across and, as Sorondo and I talked history and Basque politics, a police boat sifted through the waters looking for the body.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj91hg"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ECurrent figures from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Feuskalherriaharreraherria.info\u002Fcas\u002Fquienes.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIrungo Harrera Sarea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Irun's NGO, estimates that up to 30 migrants arrive every day seeking safe passage north into France. As a tidal channel, the Bidasoa has an abrupt 3-4m height differential, with the river flowing up and downstream from the official border on the National Road bridge like a full-frontal attack.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"This is still a place of new hope for so many,\" Sorondo said, \"but it is also a death trap.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWith such sorrowful words lingering in the air, just one clinching thought played around in my head before I left. Pheasant Island may be an unremembered, historical footnote of an island. But in our ever-variegated, unpredictable world of border disagreements and land grabs, it is a symbol of peace and one that we should never forget.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-07T20:43:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Europe's island that swaps nationalities","headlineShort":"The isle that France and Spain share","image":["p0cj91l5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.3428","longitude":"-1.7655","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cj91l5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Pheasant Island, located between France and Spain, bizarrely changes countries twice a year. But why?","summaryShort":"This curious geographic transaction has been going on for more than 350 years","tag":["tag\u002Fborders"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-06T20:54:01.370635Z","entity":"article","guid":"7e646ff5-0f96-4445-96a8-432617556f6a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-08T13:06:28.057714Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ffrance","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fspain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_france_europe_spain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396248},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple","_id":"62b420311f4b7b2e49026898","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"When a Russian scientist identified the Malus sieversii as the progenitor of the domestic apple, harvests in Kazakhstan’s forests were bountiful; now this wild fruit is threatened.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWinter’s cool indifference had already embraced the snow-tipped peaks of the Tian Shan mountain system, winds whispering the tall trees into a state of undress.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It is cold,” said Alexey Raspopov, a guide with \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Ftrekkingclub.kz\u002Feng\u002Findex.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrekking Club Kazakhstan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, pointing to the dashboard thermometer of his 4x4 as we ascended, leaving Kazakhstan’s second city Almaty to disappear beneath a layer of smog.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"One could see with his own eyes that this beautiful site was the origin of the cultivated apple","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter driving for about two hours to the Turgen Gorge, we abandoned the vehicle and continued on foot. The climb was not difficult, but biting gusts threatened to take the feeling from my fingertips and steal the words from my lips as I asked Raspopov, who has led hikes in the region for the past 30 years, about the landscape that unfolded before us.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It has changed a lot,” he said, calling upon the dissolution of the Soviet Union, the thickening pollution and a shrinking glacier to illustrate his point – not that he needed to. The near disappearance of the forests of \u003Cem\u003EMalus sieversii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or wild apple, that once blanketed the foothills of the Trans-Ili Alatau section of the Tian Shan mountains (which also stretches to Kyrgyzstan), are testament enough to the changing times.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180321-the-secret-cherry-taking-over-canada\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secret fruit that can grow in -40C\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180130-macaroni-cheeses-mysterious-origins\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMacaroni cheese’s mysterious origins\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180517-the-island-fruit-that-caused-a-mutiny\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island fruit that caused a mutiny\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen storied Russian scientist Nikolai Vavilov first identified the \u003Cem\u003EMalus sieversii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E as the progenitor of the domestic apple, \u003Cem\u003EMalus domestica\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, in 1929, the region’s forests were thick and their harvests bountiful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“All around the city one could see a vast expanse of wild apples covering the foothills,” wrote Vavilov of his visit to Almaty, then Kazakhstan’s capital. “One could see with his own eyes that this beautiful site was the origin of the cultivated apple.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVavilov based these words on his idea that the ‘centres of origin’ of a species lie in the places where you find its highest genetic diversity. His observations that all domestic apples may originate from Almaty has since been confirmed by modern genetics.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“At some point, either seeds, trees or budwood from desirable trees was taken out of the [\u003Cem\u003EMalus sieversii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E] forests by humans and grown elsewhere,” said Gayle Volk, a research plant physiologist at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.usda.gov\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnited States Department of Agriculture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (USDA). “In some cases, those trees could have hybridised with wild apple species growing in other regions. The selection process continued.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESilk Road trade is believed to have scattered the fruit far and wide, eventually reaching North America with European colonists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite being the first to scientifically assert Almaty’s association with the apple, Vavilov was not the first to observe fruit’s influence on the region. “Almaty used to be called Alma-Ata [the Russian name for the city],” Raspopov told me at the apogee of our ascent. “It means ‘father of apples’,” he added, before handing me an acid-green fruit the size of a child’s fist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EZesty, sweet and deliciously crisp, it was not plucked from one of the nearly naked branches in front of us, which, when in season, bear apples of all shapes, sizes, flavours and textures – and, as Raspopov warned me, are rarely edible. Instead, this apple was a triumph of farming and cultivation, sadly the very same human endeavours that have ravaged the wild apple’s natural habitats. This thought did not stop me from accepting another though, listening as Raspopov continued: “Kazakh people, Almaty people, they are very proud of the apple. It comes from here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat pride is worn plainly for all to see throughout the city. Billboards bearing images of apples and Almaty’s tagline, ‘the city of [a] thousand colours’, advertise nothing else but the famous fruit, injecting bold pops of red along otherwise grey highways. At the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gmirk.kz\u002Fen\u002Fhome\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Kasteyev State Museum of Arts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Kazakhstan’s biggest art museum, apples appear in oil paintings and metal sculptures. On a larger and more public scale, murals depicting the fruit adorn the sides of buildings, and a giant granite apple-shaped fountain is a point of attraction at Kok Tobe mountain, one of the city’s major landmarks. On my way to the cable car that takes visitors to its peak, I waited patiently in line to take a picture of a sunshine-yellow, Soviet-era car, stuffed full of plastic apples; the licence plate read ‘I love Almaty’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the city’s Green Bazaar, a farmers’ market thronging with locals wrapped up against the chill, precarious towers of apples fastidiously organised according to hue, size and shape beckoned. Slices were deftly cut and devoured, offered with a steady stream of Russian – the lingua franca here – and gratefully received with a grin and a quiet “\u003Cem\u003Espasiba\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” (Russian for ‘thank you’, and about the sum of my knowledge of the language).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Kazakh people, Almaty people, they are very proud of the apple","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust as the \u003Cem\u003EMalus sieversii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is the progenitor of modern apples, the Green Bazaar is ground zero for Kazakh cuisine. Each aisle presents another ingredient or element fundamental to the country’s culinary history. There is the corner dedicated to horsemeat, from an animal so sacrosanct to the once-nomadic Kazakh people that it is considered a delicacy. Then there are countless Korean specialities, emblematic of the diaspora that led many Koreans to settle in Central Asia after being forcibly deported from Soviet Russia by Stalin in 1937, where they had fled following the breakdown of the Chosun dynasty in 1910. And there are pickles of almost every type imaginable, garnished with generous amounts of dill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEverything needed to make some of the country’s signature dishes can be found here. Take \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180101-is-oshi-palav-the-the-king-of-meals\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eplov\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Central Asian rice dish that each country has adapted slightly. In Kazakhstan, the twist comes in the form of apples, which are added to the customary lamb, carrots and onions for a bit of additional sweetness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut while the region has gladly accepted the \u003Cem\u003EMalus domestica\u003C\u002Fem\u003E as its own, Kazakhstan’s wild apples have been decidedly neglected.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMalus sieversii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is currently listed as ‘vulnerable’ on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iucnredlist.org\u002Fspecies\u002F32363\u002F9693009\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EICUN Red List\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (last assessed in 2007), with its population ‘decreasing’. Threats to the few remaining forests include residential and commercial development, livestock farming and deforestation. Moves have recently been made to preserve those that remain in the Trans-Ili Alatau foothills by Italy’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fark-of-taste-slow-food\u002Fsievers-apple\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlow Food foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (which requires permits for visitors to enter the forest) with funding from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fculturesofresistance.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECultures of Resistance Network\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Again and again, Slow Food has demonstrated that slowing down and paying attention to what we eat is not just a matter of the lifestyle choices of the affluent,” said Iara Lee, director of Cultures of Resistance Network. “It’s about highlighting models of agroecology that provide alternatives to environmentally destructive corporate farming, where profit becomes the driving concern. We need alternative models now more than ever.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhether Vavilov foresaw such destructive human activity when he first visited Almaty is impossible to imagine. However, the visionary scientist made certain to collect \u003Cem\u003EMalus sieversii\u003C\u002Fem\u003E seeds to protect the species and help prevent any future famine. He added them to his collection of 250,000 seeds, fruits and roots at one of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fvir.nw.ru\u002Fhistory\u002Fhistory.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe world’s first gene banks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Leningrad (now St Petersburg).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDuring the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp00d5hkl\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESiege of Leningrad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from 1941 to 1944, several botanists who worked at the gene bank chose to starve to death rather than eat the seeds stored there. Vavilov also died of starvation, imprisoned in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp01936z9\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egulag\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for falling out of favour with those in power. Thankfully, though, his legacy survives to this day. Now named the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.vir.nw.ru\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVavilov Institute of Plant Industry\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (VIR), the gene bank is the only facility of its kind in Russia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We collect, evaluate, maintain and use the collection according to Vavilov’s theories and approaches,” said Igor Loskutov, the head of the institute’s rye, barley and oats genetic resources department. “We are working to prevent the loss of genetic diversity and genetic erosion. The VIR is important not only for Russia, but for the whole of mankind.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVolk agreed: “The wild species in their native habitats will always be important, however, gene banks increase accessibility to the wild species and can serve as a partial backup in case of unexpected circumstances,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the case of Almaty’s wild apple forests, let’s hope those unexpected circumstances never arise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBack in the birthplace of the modern apple, the work of Vavilov, along with his courageous colleagues and his contemporaries, is a footnote in the story of a city whose identity is entwined with the fruit. To celebrate their work, and to satisfy a sudden craving, I stepped into a street-side stall and bought a mottled green-and-red apple. It was delicious.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECORRECTION:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E A previous version of this article misidentified the car filled with apples as a Volga. We regret the error.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-11-21T15:50:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The birthplace of the modern apple","headlineShort":"The surprising origin of the apple","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"When a Russian scientist identified the Malus sieversii as the progenitor of the domestic apple, harvests in Kazakhstan’s forests were bountiful; now this wild fruit is threatened.","summaryShort":"Silk Road trade is believed to have scattered the fruit far and wide","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:25:58.212454Z","entity":"article","guid":"866026e0-feff-4b84-9f20-4162d2b70153","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:40:05.298149Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396249},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets","_id":"62b420371f4b7b28d22dde1c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The name of this town has become synonymous with an apple-based delicacy called “pastila”. And now the lost sweet is making a comeback thanks to some inventive and resourceful women.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp08vcwmj.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because everything around me – the river, the cathedrals, the beautiful views – breathes history. Kolomna, Russia, has learned to live with its heritage; this gives us our love and our passion for what we do.” \u003Cem\u003E– Natalia Nikitina, entrepreneur\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWomen in crinolines and bonnets, carrying trays loaded with treats and dainty teacups, weave their way between white cast-iron tables beneath the boughs of old fruit trees. People chat and enjoy the sunshine as it glints off the golden onion domes of the neighbouring church, while steam from a samovar swirls gently into the air. Along with these other visitors, I came here for a little taste of history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe setting for this garden cafe is the medieval town of Kolomna, which lies 113km south-east of Moscow in a picturesque location at the confluence of three rivers. Kolomna has been renowned for its gardens and orchards since the 15th Century. In spring, a froth of apple and cherry blossom spills over into the streets from behind pastel-painted wooden palisades – a short-lived but spectacular display. Fruit has always been grown here, and it is no accident that the name of this town has become synonymous with an apple-based delicacy: \u003Cem\u003Epastila\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPastila, pronounced with the stress on the final “a”, was first mentioned in the 16th-Century Russian Domostroi (Domestic Order), a codex of household rules and instructions on various religious, social and domestic matters. Originally developed as a means of preserving the apple harvest and providing a sweet treat throughout the winter months, it has nothing to do with the French \u003Cem\u003Epastille\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (another kind of sweet); instead, its name comes from the Russian verb \u003Cem\u003Epostelit’\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (to lay out).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPastila is often equated with marshmallow, but this comparison does not do justice to its uniquely ethereal quality. It is made by baking apples until they are soft, then blending them into a purée before whipping them “into clouds” with egg whites and sugar. The mixture is spread out onto trays to a depth of about 2cm, then dried in a cool oven before being cut into strips or shapes. It’s an entirely natural product made exclusively from fresh ingredients; no starches, additives, colourings or preservatives are used, and it is low in calories. Pastila production requires firm, sour apple varieties – Russia’s famous Antonovka is the most suitable, being richer in pectin (a natural gelling agent) than other varieties.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was in Kolomna, with its abundance of apple orchards, that the finest, fluffiest version is said to have been made. As an unknown source once proclaimed, “they have turned apples into clouds!”. From 1862, when the town became connected to Moscow via rail link, the reputation of Kolomna pastila spread across Russia and the product was sold in Moscow, St Petersburg and beyond. It continued to be manufactured in the town until 1914, when \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fhistory\u002Fworldwars\u002Fwwone\u002Feastern_front_01.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewar and revolution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E put paid to the industry. From that year on, pastila became a forgotten taste and the town slipped into decline. Many of the town’s beautiful old buildings were left to decay, and Kolomna’s lack of inclusion in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp06bkqb5\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERussia’s Golden Ring tourist route\u003C\u002Fa\u003E meant no visitors came to spend their money there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut recently, all of that has been changing thanks largely to the efforts of some inventive and resourceful women.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190826-why-food-memories-are-so-powerful\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy food memories are so powerful\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200803-russias-beloved-healing-ritual\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERussia’s beloved healing ritual\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190212-russias-strange-bread-sniffing-ritual\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow to drink vodka like a Russian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe story of the town’s revival goes back to 2008, when Kolomna hosted the European Speed Skating Championships. Tasked by the town council with creating a souvenir gift for visitors and competitors, council project manager Natalia Nikitina looked into the town’s history to come up with a gift specific to Kolomna.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor inspiration, she turned to the 18th-Century works of Ivan Lazhechnikov, the son of a rich Kolomna merchant. Reading his historical novel, The Ice Palace, Nikitina a was intrigued when she found a reference to a sweet treat called pastila. Together with her friend Elena Dimitrieva (who had a financial background in the construction industry) she started to research it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rsl.ru\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERussian State Library\u003C\u002Fa\u003E turned up several recipes from its archives, all of them involving oven-baked apples, beaten egg whites and honey or sugar. But they were too vague to be useful. One example came from the notebooks of Tolstoy’s wife Sofia, who wrote: “Put the apples in a cooling oven after baking bread” – but for how long, and at what temperature?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It kept splattering everywhere when we whipped it – it took us hours to clean it from the walls!","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe women realised there was no option but to attempt their own experiments. Nikitina cheerfully describes their early efforts: “It kept splattering everywhere when we whipped it – it took us hours to clean it from the walls!” she said. But with patience and much experimentation, they finally came up with a satisfactory formula for baking, whipping and drying the mixture. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHaving successfully created their product, the women needed to find a suitable manufacturer to produce the pastila at scale. They approached seven confectionery firms within a radius of 100km, but none were able or willing to adapt their equipment. Undeterred, they simply set up their own factory in premises leased from the council, commissioning specially designed equipment based on archive sketches of old machinery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFurther research led to the discovery of some original packaging and labels, which the women used as templates for their own packaging. Armed with Dimitrieva’s business experience, they sourced their own paper and card, and set up a packaging production line.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs work progressed, their research at the State Library continued to uncover anecdotes and diary entries associating pastila with Catherine the Great, Pushkin, Tolstoy and Dostoevsky, among other famous people and events. Dostoevsky, they learned, enjoyed the sweet treats with his cup of tea; his wife Anna wrote that he particularly loved his strips of red and white pastila (the red variety would likely have been flavoured with raspberry or redcurrant).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENikitina also found references to different flavours and textures of pastila and set about both recreating them and developing new ones. They now produce dozens of varieties, including the fluffy “white-foam” type; dense strips of \u003Cem\u003Esmokva\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fruit leather); pretty layer cakes with pink icing; airy \u003Cem\u003Ezefirs\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (similar to marshmallows); and pastila with additional natural flavours such as apricot, raspberry, cherry and plum. Perhaps the most desirable variety is \u003Cem\u003Emuftovaya\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, named after the soft muffs worn by aristocratic women to keep their hands warm; it’s made by adding the egg whites to the apple puree while it is still hot, and beating for at least 10 hours, which makes it even airier than the usual varieties.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E(And what did they do with all those egg yolks that weren’t required in the pastila? Ever resourceful, the women decided to use them by manufacturing traditional \u003Cem\u003Elapsha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or noodles).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENikitina, whose creative vision drove the enterprise, sensed that people wanted not just to taste the product, but to understand its heritage. With a grant from the philanthropic \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fenglish.fondpotanin.ru\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPotanin Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and support from the town council, in 2009 the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkolomnapastila.ru\u002Forchard\u002Fmuseum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseum of Forgotten Flavours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was born – Russia’s first living museum, designed for people to taste pastila in the place it was originally made and enjoy learning about it from actors wearing 19th-Century costume. The charming garden café at the museum is where I experienced these treats. “This is a new kind of museum for Russia,” said Nikitina. “We’re preserving and presenting our intangible heritage, something ephemeral and elusive – tastes, smells, the culture of everyday living, a manner of talking.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENikitina knows she has revived something very special. “Pastila is natural and tasty, it looks beautiful, and it’s high quality,” she said. “Most importantly, this is not something that was ever made in Europe or anywhere else. It’s associated only with Russia, and we should be proud of this culinary and cultural heritage.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWord quickly started to spread, and soon visitors were arriving from miles away to try a little taste of history. But pastila was just the start of Kolomna’s renaissance. Ever curious to learn more about the town’s heritage, Nikitina also found historical references to a traditional type of bread bun called a \u003Cem\u003Ekalach\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, made from dough that is twisted or braided so that each bun has its own handle. Soon, this too was being put into production, and further grant funding enabled Nikitina to establish a separate \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fkolomnakalach.ru\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebakery-museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E nearby.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe literary connections with pastila inspired Nikitina and her team to instigate an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fartkommunalka.com\u002Fenglish\u002Fcontent\u002Ffotogalereya\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Earts residency\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fantonovkapples.ru\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eannual book festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and before long, the positive atmosphere in the town encouraged other small creative businesses to open.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA cluster of traditional industries is now developing (such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.d-radosti.ru\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esoap\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, silk and ceramics) in Kolomna’s \u003Cem\u003Eposad\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (merchants’ quarter), just as there would have been centuries ago. Many employment opportunities have been created; Nikitina herself now employs around 100 people across a clutch of new museums, shops, cafes and production facilities. Many of Kolomna’s traditional wooden houses have been restored, showing off their decoratively carved \u003Cem\u003Enalichniki\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or window frames. Kolomna is now firmly back on the map.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Humanity will be renewed in the orchard","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe coronavirus pandemic has brought its share of difficulties, of course, but Nikitina’s vision and passion remain undiminished. Continuing to reinvest all profits back into the business, she is now forging ahead with new plans. Part of her inspiration comes from the short story Antonov Apples by Nobel laureate Ivan Bunin, which he wrote in 1900 as a paean to the departed traditions of the Russian countryside. In the story, Bunin refers to several varieties of Russian apples which have now disappeared: Borovinka, Belle-Dame and Plodovitka, for example.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s such a pity that these names have disappeared,” said Nikitina. “In Russian supermarkets these days, you either see foreign varieties, or they’re just marked ‘Russian’ or ‘seasonal’, with no names at all.” Nikitina wanted to start hunting down varieties of heritage fruit, specifically those that have connotations with Russian literature – such as the summer apple Arkad, Tolstoy’s favourite. But she didn’t have the expertise to do it alone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEnter \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.archeologiaarborea.org\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIsabella Dalla Ragione\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an “arboreal archaeologist” from Perugia, Italy, who specialises in rescuing old fruit-tree varieties from extinction. She is helping to locate and identify heritage varieties so that an orchard of Russian apple trees can be grown on land purchased by Nikitina next to Dostoevsky’s family estate of Darovoye, not far from Kolomna. In addition to the collection, there will be a “fruit forest” and an experimental and educational garden, which among other things will provide edible flowers that can be sold to local restaurants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENikitina’s inspiration, she said, comes from Dostoevsky. In a diary entry from 1876 he wrote: “I’m not sure how all this will happen, but it will happen; there will be an Orchard. Mark my words: though it be a hundred years from now […] Humanity will be renewed in the Orchard, and the Orchard will restore it – that is the formula.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets-17"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-26T13:07:24Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Kolomna: The Russian town built by apple sweets","headlineShort":"The Russian town built by apples","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"55.0816286","longitude":"38.7582147","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The name of this town has become synonymous with an apple-based delicacy called “pastila”. And now the lost sweet is making a comeback thanks to some inventive and resourceful women.","summaryShort":"A comeback sweet has put it back on the map","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:00:42.805704Z","entity":"article","guid":"adab95c2-cd77-4d47-a3bb-192c67416737","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:21:42.457972Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396249},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight","_id":"62b420331f4b7b27dc4f2ea6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Forced rhubarb – a vegetable deprived of sunlight for extra sweetness – has been eaten in Yorkshire since the 19th Century. Now the culinary treasure is having a renaissance.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt first there was a pop, then a mesmerising sound that drifted through the air like crackling wildfire. An unfamiliar snap and fizz echoed from the inky blackness, followed by another wonderfully alien noise and a phantom whisper of gently rustling leaves. “Listen,” Janet Oldroyd Hulme murmured excitedly. “This is the moment of reckoning.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is the moment of reckoning","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a Friday lunchtime, and Oldroyd Hulme was peering through a dark, cavernous doorway into what she calls her ‘unearthly world’ – a hangar-sized shed alive with the sound of several types of rhubarb in varying stages of accelerated growth. The vegetable was growing so fast, the air seemed to ripple with applause as it matured. The green-leaved, pink-stalked plant was familiar to me, but the situation was not.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEvery detail inside the out-of-time barn carried hidden meaning. There were flickering candles elevated on spikes, all thinly spread out to help workers navigate the blackness without fear of treading on the prized crop. There were shadowy hoes propped against the brick walls to help mulch the earth. There was the outline of gas propane heaters, and a sprinkler system to intensify the heat and humidity in the dark. There were around half a million buds – all cultivated in rows and all making groaning sounds as they germinated at an unnatural speed. It was a riveting exhibition of Mother Nature at work, yet a display teetering on the edge of the surreal. And one all-the-more glorious for rarely being seen by outsiders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorthern Ireland’s forgotten superfood\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190318-a-forgotten-food-of-the-american-south\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe foraged green that can kill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe surprising origin of the apple\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECome to West Yorkshire during the rhubarb harvest in mid-winter and you can expect to hear tales of this strange agricultural ritual. Here, land gathers into a swathe of greenbelt that points to the cities of Bradford, Leeds and Wakefield. Some 23 sq km in area, the realm is punctuated by the odd cathedral and castle and framed by plunging dales to the north and the gently sloping foothills of the Pennines to the west. But it is also a pocket of frozen, flinty soil with high rainfall where one of the world’s most complex vegetables grows in abundance. And it would be a peculiar place even without the name ‘the Rhubarb Triangle’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOldroyd Hulme and her family business \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.yorkshirerhubarb.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EE Oldroyd & Sons\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have made their name producing this one-of-a-kind Yorkshire rhubarb on Ashfield Farm in the village of Carlton for five generations. But speak to her about the county that she calls home and it’s clear her values are aligned with the area’s expression of good food that has remained unchanged for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Rhubarb has been called ‘God’s great gift’,” said Oldroyd Hulme, who is also known as the ‘high priestess of rhubarb’ for her knowledge on the subject. “Watch and you can see the plants shooting towards the light – just as we would warm our hands on a fire.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA notoriously fickle vegetable to harvest, Yorkshire forced rhubarb is anything but easy to grow. It thrives in the county’s cold winters, but if the soil is too wet, it can’t be planted. If the temperature is too hot, it won’t grow; and 10 or more frosts are needed before a farmer can even think about forcing it. Only then can horticulturalists remove the heavy roots from the field, then clean and replant them inside the forcing sheds where photosynthesis is limited, encouraging glucose stored in the roots to stimulate growth. It demands patience, expertise and good fortune, and, ultimately, it is engineered for maximum taste: once deprived of light, the vegetable is forced to use the energy stored in its roots, making it far sweeter than the normal variety.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo learn more, I visited Vicky Whiteley of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwhiteleysfarm.blogspot.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhiteley’s Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which produces around 12 acres of forced rhubarb annually in the nearby town of Pudsey. Using her ‘rhubarb map’ to work out which crop grows in which field, she introduced me to numerous varieties – Stockbridge Arrow, Harbinger, Timperley, Dawes, Canada Red, Strawberry, Cawood Delight, Red Champagne, and Victoria and Albert. “Rhubarb is in our blood and there’s no doubt Yorkshire is the rhubarb capital of the world,” she said. “But whatever price you get, remember it took three years to get these precious few weeks of growth.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor a simple vegetable, rhubarb has come a long way since it was discovered growing wild on the banks of the River Volga. Cultivated from Siberia to China as far back as 2700 BC, where it was used for its healing properties, it was transported along the Silk Road to Italy in the 13th Century by Marco Polo. It once commanded three times the price of opium and saffron, and was weighed against gold.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Rhubarb is in our blood","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt took another three centuries – up to around the 1620s – before it was brought to England by Sir Matthew Lister, royal physician to James I and Charles I, and used as a cathartic food to purge the body of illness. That would have been the end of the story if it wasn’t for scientists at London’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChelsea Physic Garden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who discovered the forcing process by chance. Covering up leftover rhubarb crowns – the underground part of the plant – with soil in 1817, the gardeners were stunned weeks later when the robust plant produced a shock of sweet pink stems and frilly leaves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver time, and thanks to West Yorkshire’s dependably wet weather, forced rhubarb came north. The late 19th Century was a time of dramatic change in England due to the Industrial Revolution, and the vegetable was first forced in 1877, principally to fill a gap in the area’s market-garden economy. Yet what followed was an explosion in its popularity. Soon after, daily ‘Rhubarb Express’ trains transported the valuable cargo from Leeds to London’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.coventgarden.london\u002Fmarkets\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECovent Garden Market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the tonne. Today’s disappointment is where once there was 200 producers, now there are just 11 left. Problems with post-World War Two logistics saw production falter, and changing tastes meant the local industry never fully recovered. But thanks to local artisans, a renaissance is being sparked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs might be expected, much of the Yorkshire Rhubarb Triangle remains oriented towards eating rhubarb in all its many forms. It is in an alliance with everyday life, and is added to everything, from soups, salads and gravies to elevated interpretations of jams, gins, beers, ice creams and pies. It is hard to tell what the future holds, but it is a comforting reminder of home for locals, and talk is always animated when discussing a rhubarb renaissance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“In this area, it represents innovation and opportunity and it’s an economic lifeline,” said Richard Holmes of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.cryerandstott.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECryer and Stott\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a cheesemonger with a line in forced rhubarb-flavoured Wensleydale among its 600 other cheeses. Needless to say, the ‘Rhu Crumble’ is the cornerstone of his business. “It has a subtle flavour, so it gives an opportunity to go either sweet or savoury. It’s a great vehicle to carry other flavours.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo conversation about a major comeback is complete without some mention of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spiritofharrogate.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlingsby Gin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a contemporary spirits brand produced in the spa town of Harrogate, which uses rhubarb from E Oldroyd & Sons. The distiller steeps the plant in alcohol for six weeks before it is distilled, creating a sweet gin that is beginning to rival the traditional juniper-based version in the wider county.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESlingsby’s growing dependency on the vegetable reflects an uncanny respect for the rhubarb’s heritage, while influencing other up-and-coming spirit producers with what is becoming a new tradition. In the past few years, the county has seen the debut of around 15 new gin distilleries, and the provenance of Yorkshire rhubarb is crucial.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We use more than three tonnes each year,” said Ben Carthy, son of co-owner Mike, while showing me around the city-centre micro-distillery and gin-tasting bar, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spiritofharrogate.co.uk\u002Four-story\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Spirit of Harrogate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “We stockpile it in case there’s a bad harvest, and this year we’re forecasting a production of around 500,000 bottles. That’s close to double 2018, so it’s going to be a big year for rhubarb.” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOur conversation returned to eating, as it so often does in Yorkshire. Carthy reminisced about the dishes his family used to eat while he was growing up: rhubarb crumble, rhubarb pie, straight-from-the-fridge spears dipped in the sugar bowl.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut as we chatted, my mind wandered back to the sacred space of that forcing shed in the heart of the Rhubarb Triangle. The sense of improbability it provoked was unforgettable – just like the green and pink colours of the rhubarb itself, captured in all their end-of-day, candle-lit dreaminess.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-04-25T18:03:53Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The English vegetable picked by candlelight","headlineShort":"The weird truth about English rhubarb","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Forced rhubarb – a vegetable deprived of sunlight for extra sweetness – has been eaten in Yorkshire since the 19th Century. Now the culinary treasure is having a renaissance.","summaryShort":"It’s one of the world’s most complex vegetables","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:31:41.130879Z","entity":"article","guid":"31eba3da-6599-4eff-92f3-5c35ecd83fbf","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:47:54.742252Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396250},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance","_id":"62c4a39c1f4b7b06123aac51","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnorman-miller"],"bodyIntro":"An alarming 81% of traditional apple orchards have vanished from Britain, but activists are planting British heritage varieties in community plots in all shapes and sizes.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETom Adams is a detective. But he doesn't track criminals – his targets are \"lost\" apple varieties hiding unsuspected in orchards around the UK, and his work taps into a renewed British passion for its rich larder of heritage apples.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile you'd be lucky to find half a dozen apple varieties in any supermarket (some of those imported), there are currently around 2,200 species of apple recorded in Britain's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationalfruitcollection.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Fruit Collection\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at Brogdale Farm in Kent, with new discoveries being made by apple hunters around the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAdams' apple-detecting beat focuses on The Marches, an ancient heartland of British apple growing that takes a bite out of the counties of Shropshire and Herefordshire where England merges into Wales. It was here, in a neglected orchard, that a single tree bearing mysterious bright yellow apples stirred his curiosity. No one knew when it was planted and neither Adams' expert eye nor archival records could quickly identify the variety. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt took deep delving in the archives plus gene testing before the mystery apple was finally identified as a Bringewood Pippin. \"It's a late dessert\u002Fcider apple originally raised around 1800 by the horticulturalist Thomas Andrew Knight – a cross between Golden Pippin and Golden Harvey,\" explained Adams. \"It was also quite possible this was the only remaining tree of its kind left in the country.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis single Shropshire orchard turned out to be a hotspot for apple rediscoveries, with three other \"lost\" varieties joining the Georgian-era Bringewood Pippin. \"It was also home to what could have been the last remaining trees of Gypsy King, Rhymer and Round Winter Nonesuch,\" Adams revealed. \"I took cuttings, and these trees have now been rescued from extinction – they are spread far and wide throughout the country.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cglg16"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Bardsey Island apple has a similar story of a solitary tree bearing distinctive fruit – this time on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20160411-the-tiny-island-of-20000-graves\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe eponymous little island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E just off the Llyn Peninsula in North Wales. The tree had stood perhaps for centuries by the ruins of a 13th-Century abbey, and it was curiosity about its apples that persuaded \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sonneruplund.dk\u002Feng\u002Fhtml\u002Fbardsey.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebird watcher Andy Clarke\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to take some to local fruit expert Ian Sturrock. Sent for DNA analysis, the result came back that this was a previously unknown apple, prompting the media to \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F1\u002Fhi\u002Fwales\u002F1009618.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehail the tree as the rarest in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E back in 2000. Thanks again to grafts, people around the UK are now growing this medium-sized sweet and juicy pink eating apple, and are enjoying its distinctive lemon aroma.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp0cglfy3.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EApple growing has been part of life on the British Isles back to Roman times, while also underpinning evocative ancient winter traditions such as wassailing – a Twelfth Night custom of visiting orchards to sing to the trees and spirits in the hope of ensuring a good harvest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"An ancient tradition","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fscience-environment-60834796\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E 2022 study by the National Trust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E found that an alarming 81% of traditional orchards have vanished from England and Wales since the early 1900s, due to land use changes related to farming and urbanisation. Not only has this limited people's experience of countless heritage apple varieties, but it has also impacted on biodiversity and the wildlife drawn to the mix of woodland, hedgerow and meadow grassland in traditional orchards.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut a growing army of apple activists are pushing back, dipping into the pool of British heritage varieties to plant new community orchards in all shapes and sizes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.commonground.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECommon Ground\u003C\u002Fa\u003E environment group was a key pioneer of this British apple renaissance, beginning its first campaign to save traditional orchards more than 30 years ago – including, in 1990, designating 21 October as an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.commonground.org.uk\u002Fapple-day\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eannual Apple Day\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to spread the word.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECommon Ground co-founder Sue Clifford spoke to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Flifeandstyle\u002F2017\u002Foct\u002F21\u002Fbritish-apple-boom-forgotten-varieties-apple-day\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Guardian in 2017\u003C\u002Fa\u003E about the surge in orchard planting. \"It is astonishing how people have picked up the idea of planting small orchards,\" she said. \"There is much more planting now, a growing urban and rural movement, and a resurgence of interest in ciders. Community orchards are becoming very important to places, and people are rightly proud of them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENew orchard makers can plant trees based on a host of criteria to create pleasing variety. There's the taste of the fruit, of course – but also how vigorously a tree grows, or even what date in spring it bursts into blossom. A community orchard planted in the Cornish town of Newquay in 2015 features 120 heritage varieties, each with its own appeal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cglg4p"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrightonpermaculture.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrighton Permaculture Trust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (BPT) oversees a community orchard programme on England's south coast that has planted fruit trees in small village schools across Sussex as well as large secondary city schools in Brighton. Other spots range from a tiny plot at the city's London Road train station to fruit-filled oases on council estates at Craven Vale and Hollingdean. Two hundred trees are thriving on a hillside beside \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.brighton-racecourse.co.uk\u002F\"\u003EBrighton R\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.brighton-racecourse.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eacecourse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, while a new orchard will be planted this winter in Bevendean, one of the city's most socially deprived areas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe community benefits of such initiatives are priceless. \"People just love orchards,\" said Bryn Thomas from BPT, which has made a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=O86DN4XxKwQ&t=134s\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYouTube video\u003C\u002Fa\u003E capturing how new orchards are providing both pleasure and learning for local people of all ages. \"There's something in our DNA in Britain of planting and caring for orchards. It really brings the community together.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There's something in our DNA in Britain of planting and caring for orchards","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Birmingham, a \"Ring of Blossom\" will be created around Britain's second largest city to provide an apple-y legacy following the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.birmingham2022.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECommonwealth Games\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in July. More than 500 trees will be planted this autumn as part of a National Trust plan to create an echo of the 180-plus orchards that once encircled the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe National Trust is also returning apple trees to its historical properties around the UK. \"We are planting new orchards at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.uk\u002Fstourhead\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStourhead\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Wiltshire, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnationaltrustcollections.org.uk\u002Fplace\u002Farlington-court\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArlington Court\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Devon, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.uk\u002Fkingston-lacy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKingston Lacy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Dorset, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.uk\u002Fbrockhampton\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrockhampton\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Herefordshire, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.uk\u002Fattingham-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAttingham Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Shropshire,\" said the Trust's Jeannette Heard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cglg0f"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHeritage apples are piquing the interest of chefs, too. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheethicurean.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Ethicurean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Bristol is one restaurant finding novel uses for the 60-plus varieties it grows in its own orchard. For example, head chef Mark McCabe uses crab apple verjus (a juice made by pressing some unripe fruits) as a local alternative to imported lemons. \"Crab apples are a great source of acidity and much more appropriate in British cuisine than citrus,\" said McCabe. \"We ferment the juice into a dry and very sharp verjus and use it for balance in our cooking – such as to top a beetroot, buttermilk and blackcurrant dish.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne exciting aspect of the British apple renaissance is searching for apple varieties present in horticultural histories but \"lost\" in the landscape. And the efforts of heritage apple seekers do literally bear fruit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELydia Crump from Herefordshire's Artistraw Cidery and Orchard shares the tale of the rediscovery of an apple with the characterful name Knotted Kernel. \"These majestic trees – with fruit the colour of rubies, and the shape and size of cherries – were thought to be lost, until in the 1980s it was discovered growing in New Zealand! But then we found 60-year-old trees that had been growing here in Herefordshire all along. Now it's an apple we use a lot in our cider.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EApple detectives in Sussex, meanwhile, are continuing to scour the land for a variety known as the Petworth Non Pareil, which still bears the sad label of \"extinct\". Horticultural archives suggest that this firm and crisp medium-sized green apple with a thin brushing of russet (reddish brown) was probably bred by Lord Egremont and his head gardener Mr Slade at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.uk\u002Fpetworth-house-and-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPetworth House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E early in the 19th Century, before disappearing from view. If a Petworth Non Pareil tree does still exist, it will most likely be hiding away in an old garden or overlooked plot of land just waiting to be spotted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBritain's apple detectives draw on a host of criteria to identify their quarry. Colour descriptions take in yellow, red, green or russet, with additional nods to flecks and streaks. Shape can be defined as flattish, rounded, conical, oblong, oval, angular or ribbed. First flowering times between early May and mid-June are another identifier, as is the ripening period (generally between August and October). Then there's the detail of how well each variety takes to storage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cglgfl"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDescriptions of flavour add further complexity, with famed pomologist Joan Morgan listing 12 different flavours in her reference work \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguin.co.uk\u002Fbooks\u002F1021061\u002Fthe-new-book-of-apples\u002F9780091883980.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe New Book of Apples\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published in 2002. What an apple is best used for – eating, cooking, cider – is another distinguishing factor, as is place of origin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo complicate matters further, however, local variations in soil or light conditions can cause trees of a particular variety to produce fruit that looks different to its \"typical\" form. This is where genetic testing against Brogdale's DNA database can help identify a puzzling fruit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd then there's the wonderful randomness introduced by blossom pollination. Insects flying around an orchard can bring pollen from different sources to \"fertilise\" different flowers on a tree, which introduces remarkable genetic variance into each apple that springs forth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is one of my favourite apple facts – that every single apple pip will produce an entirely new type of apple","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe result of this natural lottery is that apples grown from a pip will not grow into the exact same tree that the apple containing the pip came from. Instead, they will produce a unique new cross, albeit one that shares characteristics of their parent tree.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is one of my favourite apple facts – that every single apple pip will produce an entirely new type of apple,\" said Crump. \"It means there are boundless possibilities for new discoveries in apple varieties.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cglgs9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGrowers can also get clever and create single trees that feature grafts from multiple varieties. Known as \"family trees\", they allow a single tree to produce several varieties of apple – so much so that one Sussex grower has created a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fscience-environment-24348394\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etree with 250 different types of apple growing on it\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe task of naming new varieties is one pleasing side of the British apple renaissance. Some are named after a specific person, like the apple named after contemporary quilter Nancy Crow, who has used apple tree motifs in her work. Some are named after a place, like Halfpenny Green in Staffordshire. Others are named for their appearance, such as the rare old Welsh apple, Pig's Snout. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd the wondrous diversity of apples means there is real opportunity for an apple grower to create their own apple to name. \"There are at least 1,000 apple cultivars in collections or orchards across the UK that are not held in the National Fruit Collection (NFC) at Brogdale,\" said Steve Oram, orchard diversity officer for People's Trust for Endangered Species. \"And many varieties exist in just one or two known locations. Examples are Spring Grove Codlin, Barcelona Pearmain and Gypsy King in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marcherapple.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMarcher Apple Network\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A salt-tolerant variety called Gull was only available from one nursery, which recently closed its doors.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOram is keen to point out that the lack of so many kinds of apple tree in the National Fruit Collection isn't necessarily a flaw. \"The NFC's raison d'être is to hold a fruit gene pool that could be used for breeding new commercially viable cultivars, so the days of unquestioning collection of any and all varieties are long gone,\" he said. \"Many cultivars have modest culinary value. But they are culturally meaningful to a single locale or group of people.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd that surely is part of the essence of any distinctive heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EForgotten Food\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Es\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that offers hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life through cooking and cultivation.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFaceboo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ek\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitte\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Er\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Em\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newslette\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Er\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-06T20:33:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The UK's heritage apple renaissance","headlineShort":"Britain's vanishing rare fruit","image":["p0cglg85"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.3000115","longitude":"0.8579122","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cglg85"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181120-the-birthplace-of-the-modern-apple","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210125-kolomna-the-russian-town-built-by-apple-sweets","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"An alarming 81% of traditional apple orchards have vanished from England and Wales, but activists are planting British heritage varieties in community plots in all shapes and sizes.","summaryShort":"An alarming 81% of Britain's traditional apple orchards have disappeared","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-05T20:48:10.329019Z","entity":"article","guid":"57d1d718-0c8d-41b9-9e7a-65d74a84c284","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-06T16:02:07.710019Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396249},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee","_id":"62b4203c1f4b7b27f07068f9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Frobyn-huang-and-matthew-reichel"],"bodyIntro":"Coffee isn't just a drink in Saudi Arabia, it's an ancient tradition of hospitality – and as the country opens to tourism, it's also one of its most interesting draws.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJabar Al-Maliki stepped onto a stone perch and looked out over the boundless landscape. High up in the clouds at 1,600m, he peered over the craggy mountain tops cascading into terraced farms lined with coffee trees, banana plants and corn crops. Colourful houses and stone fortresses speckled the steep slopes of the Sarawat Mountains, which extend from Saudi Arabia's Jazan region over the border into Yemen just a few kilometres away. He whistled at a scurrying hyrax, the high-pitched echo ringing across the otherwise silent valley below. Then, with a twinkle in his eyes, he said, \"It's time for \u003Cem\u003Eqahwa \u003C\u002Fem\u003E[coffee].\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is widely believed coffee beans were first roasted and consumed as the beverage we know today in the Sarawat Mountains in the 15th Century. Historically, the area was all part of greater Yemen, when borders were far less important than tribal and familial relationships. During that period, Arab historian Abd Al Ghaffar first documented an infusion made from roasted, ground coffee beans used by Sufis (Islamic mystics) to help them stay awake during religious recitations. Over time, it became an essential aspect of Arabian culture, with public cafés called \u003Cem\u003Emaqha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E sprouting up across the region, where men would sit and drink coffee and share ideas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut despite being an essential aspect of local Arabian culture for hundreds of years, Saudi Arabia's coffee has only recently been celebrated as a critical part of the country's cultural and historical heritage, a distinction further commemorated by the government's declaration of 2022 as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fengage.moc.gov.sa\u002Fyear-of-saudi-coffee\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYear of Saudi Coffee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Coffee is part of my heritage and lineage,\" said Al-Maliki, whose farm dates back more than 130 years. \"My grandfather, father and I climbed up and down these 2,000-year-old terrace rock steps under the sun's heat, carrying coffee cherries over our shoulders with just a sling cloth.\" Now, he shares his practices with his sons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cck16j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe'd been road-tripping through Saudi Arabia for a month, and the journey to Al-Maliki's farmhouse had been particularly nerve-wracking: a slow, winding drive up and down steep mountain roads with continuous hairpins and groups of hamadryas baboons settled along the roadside. But it was a daring adventure that rewarded us with staggering views and an opportunity to explore Saudi Arabia's largest coffee-growing region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we watched, Al-Maliki's sons roasted coffee beans harvested from their fields in a cast-iron pan over an open fire, gently stirring them with a long metal stick flattened on one end. Typically, the beans are lightly roasted, ground and added to boiling water. Sometimes the brew is infused with spices like cardamom, ginger and cloves. We tried a lightly roasted version and a bitter, robust dark roast without spices. Both had a subtle flavour, more reminiscent of a cup of tea than a strongly brewed coffee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Jazan region is known across Saudi Arabia for its prized Khawlani coffee, named after the ancient tribes of Khawlan who lived between today's Saudi Arabia and Yemen. Cultivated at more than 800m above sea level, Khawlaniis defined by its high-altitude, fertile growing conditions, along with the grade of beans and the degree of roasting. No matter how it's prepared though, the coffee forms the cultural identity of the farmers here. They think of its cultivation as a 300-year-old art passed down through generations, and they consider the hospitality around it as a time-honoured tradition that strengthens social bonds across the remote valleys. Small cups of piping hot coffee require constant attention and refilling, allowing hosts to show respect and care for their guests.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cck144"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We love all kinds of coffee. It's part of our everyday lifestyle, but many people don't even know that coffee is grown right here in Saudi Arabia,\" said Sara Alali, an internationally licensed coffee grader and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthatcafe.squarespace.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecafé owner\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from the capital city, Riyadh. \"Khawlani beans are considered special because of their origin in the southern part of the Arabian Peninsula.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExtending knowledge of Khawlani locally and internationally – and highlighting the coffee rituals specific to Saudi Arabia – are the goals of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fengage.moc.gov.sa\u002Fyear-of-saudi-coffee#section-about-4\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYear of Saudi Coffee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.arabnews.com\u002Fnode\u002F1996186\u002Fsaudi-arabia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecountrywide campaign\u003C\u002Fa\u003E includes \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.arabnews.com\u002Fnode\u002F2041761\u002Fsaudi-arabia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecompetitions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, festivals and workshops; and restaurants and cafes have even \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgulfnews.com\u002Fworld\u002Fgulf\u002Fsaudi\u002Fsaudi-coffee-legacy-percolates-through-generations-1.85598140\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebeen instructed to refer to coffee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as \"Saudi coffee\" instead of \"Arabic coffee\", as it is sometimes called.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo promote their farms, some local coffee growers have begun to post photos on social media, list their farms on Google and work with tourist guides. And while tourism in this remote corner of the country is still in its infancy (Saudi Arabia only \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-49848068\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estarted issuing tourist visas in September 2019\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), family coffee \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fjabir_caf?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efarms such as \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fjabir_caf?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAl-Maliki's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E sit at the forefront of a societal shift within the Kingdom, one that encourages families to open up their lives and traditions to outsiders in an effort to establish community-based tourism initiatives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJazan is home to the largest concentration of coffee growers in the Kingdom. There are\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.arabnews.com\u002Fnode\u002F1613806\u002Fsaudi-arabia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E 724 coffee farmers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to 2017 data from the Ministry of the Interior, with around 152,000 trees and an average production of 450,000 kg of coffee. For now, Khawlani coffee is primarily sold domestically, and high-grade beans can fetch prices as high as 100 rials (£21) per kilo, according to Al-Maliki, because they are positioned as a luxury, hand-picked, labour-intensive product.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cck13r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe hope is that Khawlani coffee's rich heritage and flavour will come to be recognised beyond Saudi's borders, too. \"The government is promoting coffee plantations as a great destination,\" said Alali. Before this year, Al-Maliki rarely saw foreign visitors, except as part of agricultural research projects. Since October 2021, though, he's received a trickle of guests from Latin America and Asia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few other farms have also opened their doors to visitors. After a two-hour drive down near-vertical switchbacks from Al-Maliki's farm, we arrived at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwadye-alayen.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWadi Al Ain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E coffee estate, located in the village of Al-Aeen. We walked over a hanging bridge to a modern, Bedouin-style sitting area overlooking expansive coffee plantations with workers moving busily around the trees. Against the backdrop of the mountains and a glowing, orange sunset, owner Salem Al-Nakhaifi and his family treated us to a multi-grade coffee tasting: light, medium light and dark-roast. With each tasting, they encouraged us to move from one sitting area to the next so we could experience every part of the property – a 500-year-old farm that had been converted into an estate with a restaurant and a guesthouse so visitors can stay overnight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cck16d"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThree hours north-west from there, near the spectacular Wadi Lajab canyon, we met another local farmer, social media sensation \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fsout_alrith\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFaisal Al-Raithi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. His nephew escorted us to their hosting area in a 1970s Land Cruiser, and when we arrived, Al-Raithi was seated in a large Bedouin tent with other tribesmen, all wearing elaborate, colourful floral headpieces. He gave us a joyous greeting and immediately prepared coffee in small bronze cups, served out of a long, ornate silver pot called a \u003Cem\u003Edallah.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThroughout the day, the hospitality did not stop. Al-Raithi served us a traditional meal of herb-roasted goat with rice and homemade bread prepared over hot coals. We took an hour-long hike overlooking the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwelcomesaudi.com\u002Factivity\u002Fwadi-lajab-jazan-province\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWadi Lajab\u003C\u002Fa\u003E valley and returned to see his camels munching on tamarinds off the trees. Just before sunset, the men sang local songs over cups of tea and dried dates. We didn't stay overnight, but Al-Raithi said visitors are welcome to sleep in their hosting area. Eventually, he wants to set up individual bedouin-style canvas tents overlooking the canyon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cck1v2"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe most memorable part of the experience was the farmer himself. Al-Raithi was a vibrant, compelling character who loved to talk, especially about anything related to coffee. \"We treat the coffee trees like humans,\" he said, describing the care his community has been lavishing on the crop for more than 300 years. All parts of the coffee cherry are used, and nothing is thrown away. Beans are carefully harvested and then dried for 21 days. Peels are soaked in water for daily drinking and are considered a pain remedy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis type of tourism is still niche and developing. Farmers like Al-Raithi, Al-Maliki and Al-Nakhaifi are just starting to create a footprint online and determining how to open their doors more publicly for coffee tastings and small tours. Many of these farms are not open to walk-ins; however, owners are happy to arrange a visit if contacted in advance. For now, they are just a tiny fraction of more than 700 farmers considering community-based tourism under the countrywide campaign.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Alali explained: \"For Arabs and Saudis, coffee is an integrated part of our culture and identity. It's how we show generosity and hospitality.\" The opportunities are endless.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-09T02:05:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The country calling 2022 the 'year of coffee'","headlineShort":"Is this the next coffee hotspot?","image":["p0ccyjs1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"17.3518258","longitude":"43.1961178","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0ccyjs1"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Coffee isn't just a drink in Saudi Arabia, it's an ancient tradition of hospitality – and as the country opens to tourism, it's also one of its most interesting draws.","summaryShort":"\"Many people don't even know that coffee is grown right here\"","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fcultural-traditions"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-08T22:35:46.859881Z","entity":"article","guid":"745a901c-cdd1-4c32-a9b3-b82db86d1f09","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-10T12:51:07.320796Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsaudi-arabia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmiddle-east"],"destinationStat":"middle-east_saudi-arabia_middle-east"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists","_id":"62b4203a1f4b7b292031d6d3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In the remote, mountainous region of 'Asir, women's ingenuity can be seen in a 200-year-old artform that's passed from mother to daughter.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you walk through \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Ftentativelists\u002F6030\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERijal Almaa heritage village\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the heart of 'Asir province in south-western Saudi Arabia, you'll soon notice how different this remote region is from the rest of the country. Instead of a monochromatic desert landscape, there is colour everywhere, from the green mountains that surround the village to the brightly hued flower wreaths that 'Asiri men wear on their heads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp0b4xfzm.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because when I meet people through my travels or when foreigners from different regions of the world come to my studio [in 'Asir]… it is a beautiful coincidence that there are great similarities in heritage,\" – \u003Cem\u003EAfaf bin Dajem Al Qahtani, artist\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World – 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUp until the late 20th Century, autonomous tribes lived in \"hanging villages\" across 'Asir – settlements in the rugged highlands that were only accessible by rope ladders. The harsh terrain, geographic isolation and limited access to resources gave birth to a unique self-sustaining culture that is little-known to the outside world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPerched on steep, verdant terrain, 10th-Century Rijal Almaa is a cluster of some 60 stone fortresses rising approximately 20m in height. Once a commercial trade centre between Yemen and Hejaz (and connected to the Levant by the Red Sea), the former hanging village is now a tourist attraction and a popular summer destination for locals when temperatures across the rest of Saudi Arabia run as high as 40C. During high season, visitors can enjoy traditional dance performances, a lightshow on the history of the region and local handicraft markets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey can also marvel at a 200-year-old artform that is central to female 'Asiri identity: Al-Qatt Al-Asiri.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile men built the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eskyscraper-like houses\u003C\u002Fa\u003E typical to the region (and to neighbouring Yemen), women's ingenuity can be seen inside the homes, on stairway entrances and the interior walls of \u003Cem\u003Emajlis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (guest rooms) that are painted with colourful, geometric designs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Stone fortresses of Rijal Almaa heritage village in Asir Region, Saudi Arabia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAl-Qatt (from the Arabic word for \"to write\" and pronounced \"gath\") Al-Asiri is a creative process that's passed down from one generation of women to the next, and involves creating intricate shapes like triangles, squares, diamonds and dots using black crosslines set against white gypsum walls. These shapes – reminiscent of designs that can be found across Indian, North African and Latin American culture – are then coloured in with vivid green, ochre yellow and deep orange paints that were traditionally made from the indigenous resources – mountains, trees and flowers – of 'Asir.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfaf bin Dajem Al Qahtani, a local artist and educator, creates Al-Qatt murals on canvas that are displayed at global exhibitions, including the ongoing \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EExpo 2020\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Dubai. In her studio, located in the governorate of Sarat Ubaida, around 140km north of Rijal Almaa village, Al-Qatt designs adorn the walls in elaborate patterns of red inverted triangles and thick green horizontal lines. \"When painting Al-Qatt, I find it to be an outlet…away from tension, problems and annoyances of the outside world,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181210-the-flower-men-of-saudi-arabia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 'Flower Men' of Saudi Arabia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170418-saudi-arabias-silent-desert-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA silent city hidden in the desert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYemen's ancient skyscraper cities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAl Qahtani grew up surrounded by Al-Qatt art. She recalls several aunts in her family who used to paint their house. But it was only in 2018, at a workshop organised by the Ministry of Culture, that she had an opportunity to reconnect with her roots and learn about the rich cultural significance of the artform.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Al Qahtani now uses synthetic and acrylic paints, she told me how previous generations of women used only natural colours extracted from indigenous trees, rocks and vegetable gum. Her aunt, Mahra Al Qahtani, used three basic colours: black, red and white.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Carbon from the flame of a candle was grinded and used to paint the outline of the design,\" she explained. \"Red was obtained from two sources: Al Meshgah, ochre made from rocks found on 'Asir mountains; and carmine, the red pigment obtained from cochineal on tree branches.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhite was created from limewash obtained from gypsum, also found on 'Asir mountains. Other hues like yellow, came from turmeric root or pomegranate peel, and green came from freshly cut grass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"As trade routes developed, indigo was imported from India or Iran. With the advent of chemical colours, women resorted to using newer colours in their designs,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Grey mural with image of woman at the centre using Al-Qatt Al-Asiri designs","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs for the brush, her aunt used myrrh twigs or miswak (Salvadora persica twigs, commonly used in Muslim countries to clean teeth). \"They chew at the tip of the branch and use it as a brush or add animal hair to the tip,\" she said. For bigger spaces like staircases, the brush was swapped for a piece of cloth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Al-Qatt paintings are freehand and spontaneous, certain specific patterns are replicated by all artists. Alkaf, for instance, are horizontal lines painted at the bottom of a wall and women use their fingers to measure the width of the design. Al Batra – with its wide vertical stripes and white spaces – are meant to break the repetitive designs and draw the viewers' attention to a specific section of the mural.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe motifs have names that are inspired by the landscape and life of 'Asir: Balsana is a mesh-like design with dots in the centre that signifies wheat bran, which is a staple crop here; while Al Mahareeb (plural of Mehrab) is the half-circle used to denote the direction of Mecca.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJameela Matter, an artist and researcher from Abha, the capital of 'Asir, says that Al-Qatt painting is not something that you learn as an art, but something you grow up with. \"Ever since I was a child, I saw my grandmother and mother doing it,\" she said. \"Decorating their house and making it beautiful was a natural and necessary thing for them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn Eid ul-Fitr, women would welcome guests to their newly painted or refurbished majlis. Matter remembers helping her mother. \"She would draw the shape and give me instructions like 'Fill in yellow here or blue there.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There is so much love and passion in creating this art, it's inspiring","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs well as a tradition passed on from mothers to daughters through practice and observation, Al-Qatt is also a source of pride for 'Asiri women. \"The villagers would discuss amongst themselves 'Oh so and so, her house is very beautiful!',\" Matter said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Al-qatt al-asiri window decoration in an abandoned house, Asir province, Saudi Arabia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERehaf Gassas, head of the Heritage Department at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fshps.org.sa\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESaudi Heritage Preservation Society\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (an NGO that works closely with the Ministry of Culture) believes that Al-Qatt is more than just an artform. \"It is a social practice that brings the community together and a way for grandmothers and mothers to pass on [knowledge] to their children.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You can witness a sense of pride in local communities when they welcome you to a house decorated by them. There is so much love and passion in creating this art, it's inspiring,\" she added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite Al-Qatt being inscribed on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fich.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Fdecisions\u002F12.COM\u002F11.B.27\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco\u003C\u002Fa\u003E's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2017, Al Qahtani estimates that only around 50 women still practice it today. In an effort to preserve the artform, governmental bodies have been conducting training workshops and mentoring a new generation of female artists. In the private sector, cooperatives and individuals have set up museums in their ancestral homes and educate visitors on their family's lineage of Al-Qatt painters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We are very proud of Al-Qatt because it is our identity,\" said Matter. \"It is a women's artform that has led the way in creating a [unique] identity for the 'Asir region; it not always easy for women.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003ESince Al-Qatt Al-Asiri is generally found in private homes, visitors should head to the Rijal Almaa Museum, housed in Al Awan fort of the heritage village, where they can see restored Al-Qatt murals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Where to see Al-Qatt Al-Asiri","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShe added that previously Al-Qatt might have been considered \"old-fashioned\" by younger generations, but since the Unesco designation, they too take immense pride in it. \"They made tattoos and face masks [during Covid-19] with Al-Qatt designs,\" she said with a chuckle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile knick-knacks like \u003Cem\u003Edallahs\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Arabic coffee pots), incense burners and earthen pots with Al-Qatt designs have permeated local souqs, the designs have also found their way to high-end fashion where they are bought for their unique 'Asiri and Saudi identity. Hindamme, a luxury apparel brand and Tamashee, a high-end shoe brand both have Al-Qatt product lines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack in Sarat Ubaida, Al Qahtani explained that the women of 'Asir take pride in everything they have inherited and the legacy they pass on to the next generation. \"'Asir means 'difficult' in Arabic,\" she said. \"Just like the landscape, its women are resilient, creative and patient.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Women of 'Asir love adornment, art and innovation. And it's not unusual, because our region is beautiful and inspiring.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Freasons-to-love-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Cem\u003Eor follow us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-11-23T20:53:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Saudi's lineage of interior stylists","headlineShort":"Saudi's lineage of interior stylists","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Al-qatt al-asiri wall decoration in a house, Asir province, Rijal Almaa, Saudi Arabia","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"19.0969","longitude":"42.8638","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Headshot of Afaf bin Dajem Al Qahtani, Al-Qatt Al-Asiri artist","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In the remote, mountainous region of 'Asir, women's ingenuity can be seen in a 200-year-old artform that's passed from mother to daughter.","summaryShort":"It's a colourful symbol of female ingenuity","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-11-22T20:56:28.430638Z","entity":"article","guid":"cd0914c0-413e-4130-af0f-51057e8680e6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:37:38.149514Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396250},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b2e703b8d30","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In predominately Muslim countries, women are discouraged from scuba diving. But with trailblazers proving they can do it, are the figures about to be buoyed up?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe scariest part of diving is always that moment before you take the first step into the water. Staring down into dark, endless waves – weighed down by diving gear – you find yourself questioning what you are about to do, especially if, like me, you'd volunteered to be the first to leave the vessel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was going through the usual feelings of apprehension standing above the Red Sea, just off the coast of Aqaba in south Jordan. I'd already got over my fear of diving a couple of years previously – following a bad try-dive experience as a backpacker a decade earlier – and was now undertaking an advance PADI (Professional Association of Dive Instructors) course. But still, with an inner voice telling me I shouldn't jump, I found it difficult to take the plunge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen I saw Wa'ed Alma'aytah.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe was leading a group of first-time divers, and at first, I thought it was a neoprene hood she was wearing on her head. But after jumping into the water and watching her as I explored the soft corals amid eagle rays and brightly coloured reef fish, I realised that she was diving in her hijab. And not just diving, but leading and teaching a group of students hoping to become PADI certified.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Wa'ed is very special,\" said Khaled Kenawy, managing director of dive company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoaqaba.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGo Aqaba\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, when I climbed back onto the deck and asked who she was. \"She was the first female dive instructor in Jordan – we are lucky to have her working for us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBrought up in a fairly strict Muslim community in the Jordanian city of Al-Karak, Wa'ed was – as all her female friends were – discouraged from participating in outdoor activities, particularly anything deemed \"adventurous\". But in 2013, after she finished school studying accounting and IT, she serendipitously found a job in a dive shop in Aqaba. It was here that her whole life changed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was something I never thought I should or could do. Women from my community didn't do it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"One of the dive instructors asked if I wanted to try diving,\" she told me, as we chatted on the boat. \"It was something I never thought I should or could do. Women from my community didn't do it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite her concerns about what people might say, she decided to take the big step – literally off the back of a dive vessel. It changed her whole perspective. \"When I got into the water and saw all the life down there and experienced fish coming close to me, it made me very happy. I wasn't worried about what anyone would think anymore, just overwhelmed by the calm and the silence. I knew I wanted more.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWa'ed wasn't just thinking of more dive excursions for fun. She was sure she wanted to take this up professionally and become an instructor so she could teach others the joy of exploring the aquatic life underwater. But first she had to tell her family.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I worried, but though they were surprised they were very supportive,\" she said, as we began to pull our wetsuits back on and get into the water for further exploration. \"Despite some people from my community saying it wasn't something a woman should do, my parents encouraged me, which made me determined to carry on, to show people that women can do something different.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELifting our air cylinders onto our backs, she described the next dive site we were headed to: a sunken military tank, scuttled to create an artificial reef for marine life. While our boat manoeuvred us to the entry point, she talked of her own internal battle with her decision to become a diver. \"I did worry that people were disapproving and what they would think of me for doing this – and what they would think of my parents for letting me. But though there were disapproving comments within our community, if I wanted to be a diver I had to be brave and do it anyway. Now I'm an instructor, and I think it has made people think differently about women diving and doing activities like this.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWa'ed was being modest. Not only has she changed some people's opinions of what women should and shouldn't do in Jordan, but she was responsible for taking out another woman several years later who was so inspired by her that she went on to become the second female scuba dive instructor in the country and now works in another dive centre on the coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce more we stepped off into the water to explore the world beyond the surface. Lionfish gathered in the darkened corners of the sunken army vehicle, while brain sponges had set up residence close to the hatch on the roof. Wa'ed pointed out an array of critters I would certainly have missed without her, including small shrimps, a number of starfish and the tiny but colourful blennies poking out from crevices in the metalwork.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom there we headed to the Seven Sisters site, so named for the multiple bommies (outcrops of coral) that rise up off the ocean floor, where yellow and white butterflyfish elegantly swished passed our goggles, and the electric blue of a damselfish darted between shoals of striped fusiliers as they fanned around the towering underwater pillars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we moved through the water, I thought about how few female dive instructors I've actually met around the world. According to PADI, the activity is still very much dominated by men: globally, of the 128,000 instructors globally, just 20% of instructors (at all levels) are currently female. In Europe, the Middle East and Africa the number sinks – to around 16% – and in predominately Muslim countries, that figure plummets further, with less than 10% in the countries of Bahrain, Iraq, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Turkey and the UAE.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked PADI if the numbers look to be increasing, they said that due to the Covid pandemic it was hard to answer clearly, but did agree that \"in general, there is opportunity to grow the female ranks of PADI Professionals – and demand for female PADI Pros worldwide\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe organisation has started to promote women working in their world, particularly in places where they are not encouraged to be as active in the outdoors, such as the Middle East. They have launched an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.padi.com\u002Fambassadivers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmbassaDiver programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E where they use their website and social media channels to tell the stories of these women breaking the mould. These include Master Scuba Diver Trainer Nouf Alosaimi from Saudi Arabia – the first Saudi female technical diver, who founded \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fpinkbubblesdivers\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPink Bubbles Divers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a female diving community that encourages women to connect with the ocean); and Ehdaa Al-Barwani who is the first female PADI instructor from Oman and runs \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.auradivers.com\u002Fopen-water-diver-oman\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewomen-only dive courses\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne thing is for certain, the number of women divers in Jordan has increased since Wa'ed joined Go Aqaba in 2018. According to Khaled, there are now five of them teaching scuba diving in Aqaba, and they've seen a rise in female customers too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Every year we have a PADI Women's Dive Day on 20 July,\" said Khaled. \"In 2020, after the pandemic, Aqaba became the first city in Jordan to re-open and we were surprised and pleased to have 100 ladies coming out to try diving in Aqaba that day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen we re-surfaced for the final time, I asked Wa'ed whether she preferred taking men or women on dive excursions. \"It makes no difference,\" she said. \" I just love to take out new divers and see their faces afterwards – I can tell just how much they have enjoyed the experience. Once we're in the water, we're all the same.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince meeting Wa'ed, I'm somehow less afraid of jumping into new dive sites. Here was someone who was breaking cultural norms every time she broke the surface of the water. And, if she could do that and thrive, then I could definitely take a leap of faith.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-03T03:17:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The rise of the female scuba diver in Jordan","headlineShort":"The Muslim divers breaking the rules","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"29.5321","longitude":"35.0063","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In predominately Muslim countries, women are discouraged from scuba diving. But with trailblazers proving they can do it, are the figures about to be buoyed up?","summaryShort":"In predominately Muslim countries, less than 10% of instructors are female","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-02T21:22:45.892527Z","entity":"article","guid":"e0de3162-3371-4bfc-a36b-f2d4a10a067e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-06T14:14:16.501377Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396263},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge","_id":"62c361981f4b7b15887b269c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdemi-perera"],"bodyIntro":"Spread over a vast, remote landscape in north-western Saudi Arabia are millennia-old archaeological remains that could change our understanding of prehistory.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe car was gliding smoothly along the immaculately maintained highway in AlUla, a region in north-western Saudi Arabia\u003Cstrong\u003E,\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E when my driver abruptly veered off the road. \"I missed the turning,\" he said. I looked out of the window in confusion as I couldn't see an obvious bend. \"Here,\" he exclaimed, as the car jolted across basalt rocks to join a barely discernible path into the desert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe drove into a vast, flat landscape. A bright blue sky enclosed us on all sides and a smattering of white clouds hung low. After a few minutes, we stopped by acircle of stacked stones. I climbed out of the car, waiting to meet Jane McMahon, part of a team of archaeologists from the University of Western Australia that has been working in AlUla since 2018. All around me was an arid plain of grey-black rocks lightly dusted in pink-hued sand\u003Cstrong\u003E. \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EThere was something otherworldly about it all: the lack of a single tree or a blade of grass; the stillness of the air that was only occasionally interrupted by a bitter gust of wind that chilled you to the bone.\u003Cspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI'd come here because recent discoveries in AlUla are shining a light on a fascinating period of history in Saudi Arabia. Since the nation only opened for international research a few years ago (and to tourists in 2019), many of its ancient sites are being studied for the first time. While historians are familiar with the ruins of the 2,000-year-old cities Hegra and Dadan and their place on the Incense Route (Hegra's tombs and monuments are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1293\u002F\"\u003Ea Unesco World Heritage Site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), they didn't have much knowledge about the civilisation that came before, until now.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat has been discovered is that spread over AlUla's vast, remote landscape are millennia-old archaeological remains that could change our understanding of prehistory. Work by McMahon and her colleagues is shedding light on some of the earliest stone monuments in world history – predating Stonehenge and the earliest pyramid in Giza.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chjv0z"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen McMahon arrived, she explained that the circle of rocks next to me was the remains of a house occupied in the Neolithic period (from 6000 to 4500 BCE), and that this area was once scattered with thriving settlements. Until recently, the prevailing wisdom was that this region had little human activity until the Bronze Age after 4000 BCE. But McMahon and her colleagues' work has unearthed a very different story: that Neolithic Saudi Arabia was a dynamic, intensely populated, complex landscape spread over a vast area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAround me were more than 30 dwellings and tombs, and that was just a tiny fraction of the remains here. I tried to imagine the landscape as it may have been thousands of years ago: green, lush and teeming with people as they moved noisily round, herding goats and calling out to each other.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The climate and inert landscape of Saudi Arabia means most of the archaeology is pretty well preserved on the surface from 5,000 to 8,000 years ago. So exactly as you see it is how it was all that time ago,\" McMahon said, explaining that understanding more about the lives of these early peoples could also shed light on how the large, dense settlements of Hegra and Dedan developed, and how cultural and technological changes in the region, such as irrigation farming, metalworking and written texts, came about over the following millennia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The cultural changes that took place following the Neolithic are huge, but we don't know a lot of how those changes happened,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, even in the hands of such experienced archaeologists, one AlUla discovery has continued to elude explanation\u003Cspan\u003E.\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E Spread over an area of a staggering 300,000 sq km and built to a fairly consistent type, are 1,600 monumental rectangular stone structures that also date to the Neolithic period. Initially named \"gates\" due to their appearance from the air, the structures were later renamed \"mustatil\", which translates to \"rectangle\" in Arabic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chjtrg"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It makes the mind race that we have structures as big as five to six football fields, made of thousands of tonnes of stone, that not only cover such as massive geographic region but that also are 7,000 years old,\" said Dr Hugh Thomas, co-director of Aerial Archaeology in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia Projects (AAKSAU). He has been working alongside McMahon for the past two years conducting aerial archaeology surveys and targeted excavations to understand the mustatil's purpose.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In my opinion, mustatil are some of the most unique archaeological structures so far identified in the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMustatil are certainly impressive, and the only real way to get a sense of their size is from the air. When I flew over them in a helicopter, I could see the large stones laid out in straight lines across the sand, about the length of four football fields and a width of at least two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In my opinion, mustatil are some of the most unique archaeological structures so far identified in the world,\" Thomas said. \"When we look at other structures dating to the Neolithic that are just as impressive in their construction, I am hard-pressed to think of any that cover such a large geographic region.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Thomas's team has recorded mustatil of varying sizes and complexity, they've also noted consistent characteristics. They're all constructed in a similar manner, by piling rocks to form low walls that are filled with gravel, and they include a head (the top of the structure), a base, and long walls connecting them. Some have entrances and multiple narrow interior courtyards. The stones used for building have been especially chosen to fit together to support the large structures, displaying a deep understanding of local materials.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese prehistoric monuments were first recorded in the 1960s by a local team carrying out ground surveys, but at that point, no one knew what they were. Remote sensing surveys carried out by Professor David Kennedy (also from the University of Western Australia), in 2017 intensified interest, and initial theories suggested they were used as territorial markers for ancestral grazing grounds. Yet, as more and more were found, all dating to the same period, a different understanding emerged.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chjtkq"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThomas, McMahon and their teams have since unearthed evidence that suggests cultic practice. They've uncovered large numbers of cattle, goat and wild gazelle skulls and horns in small chambers in the heads of the mustatil, but found no indication that these were kept for domestic use. Since no other animal's body parts were found, it led the team to deduce that these were sacrificial. It further suggested that the animals were sacrificed elsewhere. This is important because it is evidence of a highly organised, cultic society, much earlier than was previously thought – predating Islam in the region by 6,000 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Excavation of several mustatil have revealed artefacts suggestive of ritual practices taking place inside the structures,\" said Thomas. \"The people who built them had a shared culture and belief system and this was not a practice that was localised. It spread across a huge swathe of Arabia about the size of Poland.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThomas added: \"Saudi Arabia has had the appearance of being an arid and inhospitable landscape, viewed in isolation from the rest of the world other than a few notable sites, such as Dedan and Hegra. However, archaeological evidence, such as the mustatil, demonstrate that the region had a rich and complex history. To have a structure so widely dispersed across such a massive area suggests a shared belief system, language and culture on a scale that I personally never imagined possible.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The people who built them had a shared culture and belief system and this was not a practice that was localised. It spread across a huge swathe of Arabia about the size of Poland","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMunirah Almushawh, co-director of an archaeological project in Khaybar (another area of AlUla), agrees, noting that not only did this society share a single belief system, but they travelled huge distances to share the knowledge that allowed them to build the structures. Some of the mustatils weigh as much as 12,000 tonnes; more than the Eiffel Tower. Their construction would have required knowledge, skill and organisation over long periods of time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The mustatil suggests large social networks, innovative architectural skills and vast exploration in prehistoric Arabia,\" Almushawh said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chjtfv"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite these exciting discoveries, knowledge of mustatil is still in its infancy, with just five of the 1,600 excavated so far. What is certain is that AlUla will only continue to reveal its mysteries. As the region reopens for tourism post-pandemic, plans are in place to construct a massive, open-air museum where visitors can self-navigate around various archaeological sites or be taken through by a guide. Travellers will be able to learn about the Neolithic period, see the ancient ruins of homes and mustatil and imagine for themselves how this seemingly highly organised society lived and moved through the landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMcMahon and Thomas are as excited for AlUla's future as much as for its past. \"The significance of what we've discovered is rewriting the history of the Neolithic in north-west Arabia,\" said McMahon. \"Our work has so far uncovered only what has always existed: the complexity of the Neolithic period in this region, which had previously been considered either uninhabitable or merely unimportant in this time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Funearthed","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-05T10:44:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A mysterious cult that predates Stonehenge","headlineShort":"A mystery cult that predates Stonehenge","image":["p0chjv3k"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"26.6031","longitude":"37.9295","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0chjv3k"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211122-saudis-lineage-of-interior-stylists","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220602-the-rise-of-the-female-scuba-diver-in-jordan"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Spread over a vast, remote landscape in north-western Saudi Arabia are millennia-old archaeological remains that could change our understanding of prehistory.","summaryShort":"The vast archaeological site could change our understanding of prehistory","tag":["tag\u002Farchaeology","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-04T21:54:15.256698Z","entity":"article","guid":"2acf60b5-2244-424a-887e-53fb42d271bc","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-04T21:54:15.256698Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsaudi-arabia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmiddle-east"],"destinationStat":"middle-east_saudi-arabia_middle-east","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396250},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b28d0216dad","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A rare archaeological discovery on the Dominican Republic's secluded Samaná Peninsula could unlock the mystery behind the Caribbean's little-known pre-Arawak past.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYou wouldn't think of the overtrodden Dominican Republic as a cutting-edge archaeology destination. Yet hidden beneath the beach cabanas are likely clues to a pre-Columbian mystery that's been perplexing anthropologists for centuries: who actually discovered the Caribbean?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Columbus arrived on Hispaniola in the 15th Century, he encountered the Taíno, an Arawakan-speaking people who came from the Orinoco Delta of present-day Venezuela, emigrating as early as 400 BCE. While it is often assumed that the Taíno were the \"original\" inhabitants of the Caribbean, particularly the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fplace\u002FGreater-Antilles\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreater Antilles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, other peoples had already been living there for several thousand years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese little-known first inhabitants of Hispaniola are known as the \"Archaic\" peoples, characterised by their usage of stone tools (and the \"Ceramic Age\" Taíno by their creation of ceramics). The term generalises a diverse group of prehistoric peoples whose languages and names for themselves are unknown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.uniroma1.it\u002Fen\u002Fnotizia\u002Frare-pre-columbian-archaic-settlement-discovered-dominican-republic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea recent discovery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by a team of Italian and Dominican archaeologists on the Dominican Republic's secluded Samaná Peninsula, could change our understanding of who they were and where they came from.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"El Pozito\" (Spanish for \"little well\") is a rare settlement belonging to these little-known first inhabitants of Hispaniola. It's also the Dominican Republic's biggest Archaic discovery in half a century. To the untrained eye, the site – a grassy mound surrounded by lush vegetation 2km inland from capes Cabrón and Samaná – might not seem like anything more than an idyllic spot for a picnic. But after surveying the area and finding a natural spring nearby, seasoned archaeologist Alfredo Coppa knew to dig deeper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"El Pozito archaeological site in Dominican Republic","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor 2.5 weeks in September 2021, Coppa's team from Sapienza University of Rome, with investigators from Santo Domingo's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmuseo.d.dominicano\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseo del Hombre Dominicano\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, combed a 12mx12m area of virgin turf untouched by agriculture. Digging just 20cm below the surface, gently prodding the moist, coffee-coloured earth for signs of past civilisations, they found a trove of polished stone hammers, pestles and axes, conches and other tools used by the Archaic people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe most significant finds are the \u003Cem\u003Emariposoid \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eor butterfly axes, which were likely used for felling trees to make canoes and oars; and a small ceremonial well (35cm in diameter) with 12 stone pestles buried inside, barely used save some plant residue, leading the team to believe these settlers were also ritualistic – a ground-breaking revelation considering how little is known about their way of life. Few Archaic settlements have been uncovered around the Caribbean to date and this is among the most promising.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I spent 30 years looking for an Archaic site like this","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile carbon dating has yet to be done on El Pozito, Coppa believes it to be around 2,000 years old (Late Archaic Age), based on the objects he's found so far, but he's hoping the settlement is much older than that. Particularly because what he's really looking to find is a necropolis – with burials spanning centuries – in order to glean genetic insights. And there's a good chance he will, because no site where humans lived has not been associated with a necropolis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I spent 30 years looking for an Archaic site like this,\" said Coppa, who has overseen excavations in other places like Oman, Eritrea, Pakistan and Libya – and, of course, across the Dominican Republic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Playa Onda Samana on the Samana peninsula","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe first and last major Archaic discovery here happened in the 1970s in the southern part of the island. Over the years, Coppa found butterfly axes scattered around the north, but no site, which led him to believe the Archaic peoples lived down south, likely coming from Cuba, the biggest island in the Greater Antilles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil he found El Pozito.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEl Pozito is tucked away at the end of the Samaná Peninsula, a 30-mile verdant strip of land in the country's north-east that juts into the Atlantic Ocean. An eco-tourism paradise, the land is rainforested and dramatic, formed by the Sierra de Samaná, an extension of the Cordillera Septentrional – the biggest mountain range in the Caribbean – that runs along the northern coast, providing natural shelters along several remote beaches. Coppa theorises that these Archaic people may have reached Samaná from Puerto Rico, the closest nearby island about 200 nautical miles to the east, though he says more research is needed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe US' lost, ancient megacity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200921-jamaicas-port-royal-the-wickedest-city-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWas this the wickedest city on Earth?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Roman settlement at the bottom of the sea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the bigger questions are: Which continent did they come from? To whom are they related? How did they interact and trade with others? And what happened to them?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ynharari.com\u002Fbook\u002Fsapiens-2\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESapiens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E author Yuval Noah Harari, the first seafaring society may have developed on the Indonesia archipelago 45,000 years ago. It would take another 39,000 years or so for homo sapiens to discover the Caribbean – the last region of the Americas to be settled by humans, and the first to be colonised by Europeans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile 6,000 years ago is relatively recent for archaeologists, evidence is scarce because almost nothing organic survives the tropics. The humid climate, volcanic soil and rising sea levels – not to mention agriculture, development, looting and indifference – breaks down and swallows up bones, settlements and objects, posing a challenge to Caribbean archaeology. But that's precisely what makes the field – and this discovery – exciting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Stone pestles at El Pozito","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"They're the actual discoverers of the Caribbean but they've received the least attention from archaeologists,\" said Dr Reniel Rodríguez-Ramos, professor of archaeology at University of Puerto Rico in Utuado. Rodríguez-Ramos has written about \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F31043611_From_the_Guanahatabey_to_the_Archaic_of_Puerto_Rico_The_Nonevident_Evidence\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehow European travelogues at the time of Columbus misguided archaeologists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who long considered them as nomadic \"fisher-hunter-gatherers\" who lived in caves by the coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor centuries, texts by Spanish and Italian travellers, such as Bartolomé de las Casas, a missionary from Seville who became a Dominican friar, were the only \"evidence\" archaeologists had about these non-Taíno peoples, often described in unsophisticated terms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They're the actual discoverers of the Caribbean but they've received the least attention from archaeologists","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut recent discoveries across the Caribbean – from the cultic implications of the 12 pestles found at El Pozito, to finding shelters and weights likely used to hold down fish nets in Puerto Rico – show that these first settlers were more skilled than archaeologists historically thought. They practiced agriculture and basket weaving, and were more sedentary than survivalist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition, the Caribbean archipelago is not visible from land (apart from the island of Trinidad, which can be seen from Venezuela), nor was it ever part of any continent. This means these first settlers took a chance when they ventured into the Caribbean Sea, which was unusual to do back then, say archaeologists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"These people had to be explorers,\" said Rodríguez-Ramos in answer to why they would be so daring. \"There was no big population pressure back then. No need to jump into a canoe and risk their lives to come here. That's what navigators do. These are sea people. They're just like climbers. They do things because it's part of their idiosyncrasies.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"mariposoid or butterfly axes at El Pozito","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe theorises they came from across the Americas, and that the islands were a centre for trade and cultural exchange; a maritime Silk Road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFurthermore, while it was long assumed that the Archaic people were either ancestors to or mixed with the Taíno, DNA analysis now tells us that the first settlers were genetically distinct, despite evidence that the two groups coexisted for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis surprised experts. \"When two groups meet you usually find mixture. It's almost entirely absent from the Caribbean and we are wondering why that is,\" said Dr Kathrin Nägele, a Caribbean-specialised archaeogeneticist from the Max Planck Institute, who pioneered \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.science.org\u002Fdoi\u002F10.1126\u002Fscience.aba8697\"\u003Ea study on ancient Caribbean genomics\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published in Science in 2020.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis absence, however, could be for lack of samples.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe study was the first time ancient Caribbean human genomes were successfully sequenced, thanks to a breakthrough in DNA retrieval. (This led to subsequent studies by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41586-020-03053-2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHarvard University\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and other, smaller labs.) While hundreds of Taíno skeletons have been analysed so far, only 55 Archaic Age genomes have been sequenced: 52 from Cuba and three from the Dominican Republic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhich is why Coppa is hoping to find a necropolis at El Pozito, where he may be able to source the inch-long bone they're searching for – the skull's petrous bone, which protects the inner ear – that is the best source of preserved DNA. It may explain who the Archaic peoples were related to and what happened to them; if they mixed with Ceramic Age groups, Europeans, died out or disappeared.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Playta Fronton on the Samana peninsula","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Every new genome we study has the potential to change what we thought we knew,\" said Dr Kendra Sirak, research fellow at Harvard Medical School, who works with Coppa on sequencing ancient genomes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EEl Pozito is purposely not geotagged (so you can’t find it in Google Maps) in order to protect it from looters who sell archaeological objects to tourists on the black market.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf you happen to find anything on your travels that could be of interest to archaeologists, be sure to leave it where you found it and notify authorities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Travel responsibly","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor travellers interested in digging deeper, the place to start is the Museo del Hombre Dominicano in Santo Domingo, when it reopens. The impressive four-storey brutalist anthropological museum has been undergoing renovations since 2017, though Glenis Tavarez, a forensic archaeologist who has been with the museum for 38 years, hopes it will reopen for its 50th anniversary in 2023. When it does, it will feature artefacts from El Pozito.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor now, it's best to head to Samaná. While the site is not yet open to the public (the dig is due to continue in July and interested travellers are welcome to inquire about joining), nearby on Cape Samaná, about a two-hour trek from the quiet fishing village of Las Galeras through jungle, is a towering 90m-high limestone cliff that runs 3.5km along a beach called Playa Frontón. The cocooned white-sand beach, along with its neighbour Playa Madama, is accessible only by foot, boat or horse. Coppa suggests these beaches as good places for interested travellers to explore, as both are filled with accessible pre-Columbian sites, including caves and petroglyphs, which he surveyed before finding El Pozito.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile seeking shade under the sea-worn rockface or inside a cave, you might watch snorkelers or kayakers paddling the glistening turquoise waters – and be reminded of the intrepid people who came here first.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-23T03:36:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The mysterious people of the Caribbean","headlineShort":"The mysterious people of the Caribbean","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"19.208070","longitude":"-69.251297","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A rare archaeological discovery on the Dominican Republic's secluded Samaná Peninsula could unlock the mystery behind the Caribbean's little-known pre-Arawak past.","summaryShort":"It's been perplexing anthropologists for centuries","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-22T21:21:38.07342Z","entity":"article","guid":"c330b086-41cf-4ce9-82e8-d5cb1ac60e8d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-22T23:32:22.363286Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396251},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b2942657414","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Although the curry-spiced stew, porc-colombo, is the national dish of Guadeloupe, it's the humble bokit that has captured the hearts of the Caribbean archipelago.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the sun-scorched streets of Pointe-a Pitre, Guadeloupe, buzzy energy bubbled up from the narrow lanes and the scent of spices and frying dough mingled with the sea breeze. The first time I arrived on the archipelago, I was struck by the chaotic mix of old world and new: crayon-coloured 18th-Century buildings next to storefront mannequins dressed in patterned leggings and tanks; a graffiti artist spray painting a crumbling 19th-Century warehouse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll my senses were activated as l sipped fresh sugarcane juice and strolled around the waterfront. I understood immediately why Guadeloupe is known for \u003Cem\u003Ela belle la vie\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or the beautiful life. The zest for living is woven into every aspect of the islands' lifestyle, from the joyful rhythms of local \u003Cem\u003Ezouk\u003C\u002Fem\u003E music to the \u003Cspan\u003Erecord numbers for \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmarketsize.net\u002Fchampaign-consumption\u002F\"\u003EC\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmarketsize.net\u002Fchampaign-consumption\u002F\"\u003Ehampagne drinking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but it's especially evident in the devoted preparation of food. I sampled complex dishes like \u003Cem\u003Eferoces \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ed'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eavocat, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ea spicy avocado salad with cassava and codfish, as well as the creole stew of breadfruit, plantains and tripe called \u003Cem\u003Ebe'bele. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EBut nothing seemed to be as ubiquitous and beloved as the source of that fried dough aroma, the almighty \u003Cem\u003Ebokit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ultimate Guadeloupan street food, bokit is a hefty sandwich fashioned from fried dough and a creative range of ingredients that's sold from stands, trucks and cafes that dot the island. I entered a tiny eatery with a faded sign and a few tables and chairs. A mind-numbing list of ingredient choices – including lamb, lobster, conch, curried chicken, pepper sauce, cheeses, curry sauce and ketchup – lined a wall over a grill where the owner was frying two long pieces of dough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI ordered saltfish with sweet peppers and Creole sauce (made of scotch bonnet peppers, onions, parsley, garlic and lime) and watched him stuff the ingredients between the fried bread and wrap it in foil. I took a bite and the flavours danced around my mouth, forming a happy mix. The satisfying blend of fat and freshness along with the array of fillings made it the perfect symbol of Guadeloupe's multicultural influences. The bokit is so much more than a sandwich; it's a portable feast and cultural symbol.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Bokit taco on left and bokit skewers on right","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn overseas department of France located in the Eastern Caribbean between Antigua and Dominica, Guadeloupe is composed of five islands, with Grande Terre and Bass Terre the largest. After the abolition of slavery in 1848, indentured workers from South India were brought to the archipelago for cheap labour, creating a vibrant culture that combines African, French, indigenous and Indian influences. The simple preparation and varied fixings of bokits perfectly reflect this cultural mix, resulting in a bountiful and flavourful dish paired with the creativity of French cooking techniques.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The\u003Cem\u003E bokit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is a festive sandwich. It is a dish that unites,\" said Naike' Claudeon, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbokit-center.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBokit Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a stylish restaurant that serves healthy, gourmet versions of bokit in Pointe-a-Pitre\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\"When we think of a bokit\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E we often associate it with a family outing after visits to the cemetery or at the carnival. We also have to talk about the \u003Cem\u003Edankit \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(simple fried bread) from which the bokit is inspired.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA genius cheese dish invented by slaves\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrinidad's addictive spicy street snack\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Jamaican fruit that could kill you\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe added: \"It is a dish that has evolved a lot throughout its history. It's a dish that is not set in stone. Everyone can create their own. You may find a way to make it in Basse-Terre that you won't find in Grande-Terre. The bokit is very versatile.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe history of the bokit stretches back to the 19th Century, around the time of the abolition of slavery in Guadeloupe. Simple fried dough is typically called johnnycakes throughout most of the Caribbean, where the indigenous practice of cooking corn cakes on hot stones was adopted by enslaved Africans. The fried dough is called dankit in Guadeloupe, and stuffing it with whatever meat, cheese, or vegetables were on hand developed into a hearty meal for poor workers who needed a cheap and filling dish to sustain them during the long work day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Pile of bokit skewers covered in melted chocolate and powdered sugar","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Our very resourceful enslaved ancestors created the bokit because at that time they did not have an oven or the necessary means, but they had to eat and they had water, flour and oil,\" said Claudeon. \"Hence the idea of frying the dough instead of baking it. Most Caribbean islands have their version of bokit with a different name.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe evolution of the bokit mirrors the story of Guadeloupe. As the island developed more industries besides agriculture and the towns grew bigger with commerce, the bokit acquired more sophistication and variations. \"Originally the bokit was made without yeast and was called dankit. [But] over the years the recipe evolved and yeast was added to it [inspired by the prevalence of French bread] and it then became the bokit that we know today,\" explained Colette Chicot, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbokaraibes-restaurant.business.site\u002F?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBokaraibes,\u003C\u002Fa\u003E a bokit cafe in Basse Terre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Bokit is to Guadeloupe what the baguette is to mainland France or what the naan is to India","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Bokit is to Guadeloupe what the baguette is to mainland France or what the naan is to India,\" she added. \"The bokit is truly a sandwich that has evolved so much and is still evolving. For example, I'm known for making bokits with breadfruit flour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, I have savoured many exciting bokit variations. One option showcased the keen skills of French technique, with stewed pork topped with julienned cabbage and carrots. Sprinkled with local sugar cane syrup, the result was a sweet and savoury dish that reflected the French appreciation of a mix of flavours and textures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother time, sitting in the shade of a lush sea grape tree on the golden sands in Sainte Anne, a popular beachfront town in Grande Terre, I enjoyed a an Indian-inspired bokit bursting with chickpeas, cabbage and potatoes and dressed with turmeric and tamarind sauce. As I licked the sauce from my fingers, I leaned against the trunk and watched an eager queue of patrons line up at the small truck for bokits stuffed with everything from aubergine to mutton.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Bokit on yellow tray with cucumber and carrot","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The bokit was first marketed as a food truck sandwich,\" said Claudeon. \"Mothers would sell bokits in food trucks to make money to feed their children. At the time, we had two types of bokit: the bokit stuffed before frying; and the bokit stuffed after frying.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPreserving the textures and flavours of the stuffed ingredients has made stuffing after frying the most popular method – but everything else remains open for creative interpretation. At the Bokit Center, the dough can be made with trendy ingredients like turmeric or charcoal; while a taco-like version called \u003Cem\u003Ebokitos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is popular, as are skewers made from bokit dough called \"bokit sticks\" featuring meat and vegetables or chocolate and powdered sugar for dessert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the curry-spiced stew, \u003Cem\u003Eporc-colombo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is the national dish of Guadeloupe, bokits have captured the hearts of the Caribbean island for their versatility and easy accessibility. \"Friday is bokit day in Guadeloupe, \" said Chicot. \"It's the weekend, everybody is looking for comfort food and the bokit is practical; it's food on the go.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe added: \"The bokit is ours. It truly represents our history, our soul, our genes. To make bokits is to revive one of the most beautiful symbols of the island. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-12T19:31:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Bokit: The fried food that defines an island","headlineShort":"The fried food that defines an island","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"16.2650","longitude":"61.5510","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although the curry-spiced stew, porc-colombo, is the national dish of Guadeloupe, it's the humble bokit that has captured the hearts of the Caribbean archipelago.","summaryShort":"No food is as ubiquitous and beloved as the almighty bokit","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-11T19:33:19.084942Z","entity":"article","guid":"b81f0ee0-fab6-486c-9820-6524482dc993","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:04.780591Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396251},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity","_id":"62b4203a1f4b7b28f2485732","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"An important part of Curacao's dushi (sweet) culture, Mama and Chichi sculptures can be found across the island and have come to represent the beauty of the female form.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's impossible to travel around the Dutch Caribbean island of Curaçao without falling in love with the affectionate-looking, plus-sized \u003Cem\u003EMama\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (mother) and \u003Cem\u003EChichi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (big sister) sculptures found in public squares, outside hotels and in unexpected locations around the island. Their poses – with hands outstretched in a welcoming embrace or clasped together in quiet contemplation – radiate maternalistic warmth. Combined with their lofty 2m scale, Curacaoans and travellers alike can't resist rushing in to photograph a hug with a Mama or Chichi or stopping by for a quick chat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe prevalence of these voluptuous sculptures across the island is indicative of Curaçao's flourishing emergent culture and art scene. Curaçao was settled by the Arawak people from South America around 6,000 years ago, but in 1515 the entire population was deported to the nearby island of Hispaniola and enslaved in their copper mines by the Spanish. Today, still coming to terms with its past, the ever-growing population of Curaçao is a fusion of African, European and Latin American cultures from more than 50 countries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, it was relatively recent migrants to Curaçao who, inspired by the beauty and strength of the women they saw around them, first decided to immortalise the island's Mamas and Chichis in sculptures. But few people know the stories behind these vibrant figures or how they became emblems of contemporary Curacao's \u003Cem\u003Edushi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sweet) culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMy first encounter with a Mama was under a canopy of trees on a sun-soaked hillside near the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.avantiadamberg.com\u002Fcommissioned-work\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EColourful Steps\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20120829-seven-unmissable-caribbean-towns\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWillemstad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E's Otrobanda district. Created by sculptor \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrouwn.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHortence Brouwn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, this hilltop Mama is the highest and one of the largest Mamas on the island. At 2m in height and almost the same in width, she perches serenely on a small clifftop above a resplendent tangle of magenta, coral and white bougainvillea bushes. Her scarlet dress is adorned with sunflowers that perfectly match her saffron headwrap. Pressing her hands together, she gazes out across Sint Anna Bay, as if patiently waiting for the return of a loved one.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Mama sculpture by Hortence Brouwn","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBrouwn, 84, has been sculpting since she was 17. Originally from Suriname, she migrated to Curaçao 40 years ago. The sculptor specialises in the human form and aims to express movement and feelings through the body language of her subjects. The inspiration for Brouwn's first Mama came 35 years ago, after observing how Curacaoan mothers across the island would sit in one spot enjoying the day for long periods while their children were at school. Today, Brouwn's sculptures can be found around the world, including Holland and Bonaire, but her beloved Curaçao has more Mamas than any other location.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island\"\u003EThe fried food that defines an island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200921-jamaicas-port-royal-the-wickedest-city-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe wickedest city on Earth?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA genius cheese dish invented by slaves\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I started by making a small sculpture of a lady sitting on a bench,\" Brouwn explained. \"The former owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.avilabeachhotel.com\u002Fusa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAvila Beach Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E came to me for a coffee one day and saw it. He said, 'It's such a beautiful sculpture, can you make me a very big one?'. I asked him how big, and he replied, 'Lifesize!'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd so, Brouwn cast her first large bronze Mama sculpture, which was given pride of place on a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alamy.com\u002Fcaribbean-curacao-big-momma-statue-sculpture-avila-beach-hotel-blues-image3346067.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebench\u003C\u002Fa\u003E outside the hotel. Swiftly afterwards came a commission from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FKuraHulanda\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKura Hulanda Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for another Mama\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E Brouwn's second bronze Mama\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E while also extremely lifelike, preserves a snapshot of Curacaoan life from the 1980s. \"Women in Curaçao used to walk around in the streets with curl pins in their hair and when they went out for the evening, they'd take them out, but you don't see it anymore,\" she told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer Mamas of all sizes were soon in high demand, although the largest ones appear to evoke the strongest emotional reactions from observers and buyers. Perhaps in part it's due to the previous lack of representation of the huge diversity of shapes and sizes of members of the Curaçaoan population, which is made up of 75.4% black or mixed race Curaçaoans, 6% Dutch, 3.6% Dominican and 3% Colombian, with the remainder being from various other Caribbean islands, Venezuela and Suriname. To many Curaçaoan women, statues such as Brouwn's have become emblems of body positivity, serving as a reminder that women in this melting pot come in all shapes and colours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Mama statue on clifftop in Otrobanda","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany Curaçaoans, as well as visitors, see themselves or family members in the sculptures. \"One day I was looking out of my kitchen window, and I couldn't believe it when I saw a man come and sit down and talk to one of my Mamas,\" said Brouwn. \"Since then, I've noticed many people like to come sit beside them, and even talk with the sculptures sometimes.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpundawillemstad.com\u002Fexperience\u002Fart-alley\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EHead to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpundawillemstad.com\u002Fexperience\u002Fart-alley\u002F\"\u003EArt Alley\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Punda or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchichi-curacao.com\u002Ffactory\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESerena's Art Factory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E workshop on the east side of the island to see local women hand-painting smaller Chichis; you can also buy them here as authentic souvenirs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYou can make an appointment to visit Brouwn's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrouwn.com\u002F?page_id=25\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estudio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to see her work, which also includes other types of figures, and can buy or commission a piece.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlternatively, look out for both Chichis and Mamas outside major hotels, the historic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alamy.com\u002Fwillemstad-curacao-netherlands-december-5-2019-sculpture-at-rif-fort-at-willemstad-curacao-caribbean-image448408865.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERif Fort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and in unexpected locations around the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Where to find Chichis and Mamas","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbloemhof.cw\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EMany Curaçaoans have the figurines in their homes, too. Their affection and respect for the women of the island is part of the national character, which values and celebrates all things dushi. The dushi way encompasses not only behaviour; it's also a word frequently used as a term of endearment for anyone from family members to strangers, a way of describing a delicious meal, or indeed anything deemed to be nice, good or enjoyable. Seeing the sweetness in everything may be one way this diverse new nation has attempted to heal from its past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Brouwn was the first artist in Curaçao to popularise these curvy depictions of women – with many other artists following suit – it was sculptor Serena Israel who took making plus-sized figures into a community-based enterprise for local women. This time, the inspiration was another important member of Curacaoan families: the Chichi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike Brouwn, Israel was drawn to Curaçao and it has now been her home since 2001. As a new migrant, finding herself strapped for cash, unmarried and pregnant, the German native pivoted from working as a cleaner and waitress to teaching sculpting skills at the well-known \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbloemhof.cw\u002F\"\u003ELandhuis Bloemhof\u003C\u002Fa\u003E gallery. As she discovered more over the years from Curaçaoan friends about the island's culture and complex history, she was inspired by the backstory of Curaçao's Chichis – the Papiamentu word for the eldest sister in a family.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Chichis are so much more than just a big sister; they capture the embraces, the pride and the heritage of many Curaçaoan women,\" Israel explained. \"During WWI, the Chichis came to the forefront because the mothers were working while many of the men were away fighting. They had to take control of the family, which often meant they had no time for a school education. So Chichis became pillars of the Curaçaoan families – they held them together.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat was when people first began calling them \"Chichi\", as a sign of respect. When the first generation of Chichis grew up, the word became used as a more general term to describe local women.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Chichis are so much more than just a big sister; they capture the embraces, the pride and the heritage of many Curaçaoan women","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIsrael began making small Chichis from papier mache for tourists 14 years ago. Demand snowballed, leading to the creation of an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchichi-curacao.com\u002Ffactory\u002F\"\u003EArt Factory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where visitors can watch her in action, along with various shops and outlets. She has been commissioned to create large Chichisto celebrate their importance in Curaçaoan culture\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E including a colourful figure outside the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marriott.com\u002Fen-us\u002Fhotels\u002Fcurbr-renaissance-wind-creek-curacao-resort\u002Foverview\u002F\"\u003ERenaissance Wind Creek Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, wearing a swimsuit painted with tropical flower designs. Guests are frequently seen perched on her lap.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Woman painting \"XXXL Chichi\" in Curaçao","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"My Chichis are very joyful and capture the root of the truth,\" Israel said. \"With regards to body positivity, I think they're big \u003Cem\u003Eand\u003C\u002Fem\u003E beautiful. It doesn't mean they're not sporty or not eating healthily. They have their own beauty. To me, they are about national pride, but also about healing. Curaçao is still healing from its past. It has a heavy history. All these thoughts were going through my mind when I came up with an idea that I thought might work; a sculpture that would celebrate voluptuousness, and Curacaoan women and their heritage.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter transforming from struggling migrant to successful artist in her new home country, Israel says she decided to pay it forward by teaching jobless women in her neighbourhood how to craft and paint their own Chichis\u003Cem\u003E – \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ea 12-step process involving 10 pairs of hands. Operating as a kind of artists' cooperative, the opportunity gives them the ability to earn their own money, as well as to work from home and choose their own hours to fit around family commitments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnsurprisingly, the holiday island did not escape unscathed from the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic. Israel's cooperative relied upon tourists for 80% of its income. But she has just launched a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchichikunst.com\u002Fproject-info\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecrowdfunding\u003C\u002Fa\u003E idea to create a new extra-large \"XXXL Chichi\" that draws attention to Curaçao's charms through illustrations of its most beautiful attractions – including the popular cliff jumping spot at Playa Forti – as well as native flora and fauna such as dolphins, hummingbirds and cayenne flowers. People can watch Israel and the other artists doing live painting sessions on the sculpture every Wednesday at different \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchichikunst.com\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2022\u002F01\u002FXXXL-map-Sambil.png\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elocations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or view the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fchannel\u002FUCztyXp28FHo0MEygmtsc5eQ\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elivestream\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We will move the XXXL Chichi around the island for a year because we want to show the world how beautiful our island is,\" Israel said, explaining that the new Chichi will be donated to the city of Willemstad for three years after its one-year tour. \"In the meantime, the crowdfunding helps get our painters back to work and allows us to hire new painters, so we can provide an extra income to the local community that really needs it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Angelique Martina painting a Chichi in front of tropical painted wall","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchichi-curacao.com\u002Fproject\u002F20-angelique-martina\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAngelique Martina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Curaçaoan artist who has been making Chichis with Israel for several years, is also a firm believer in the importance of the figures as a symbol of female strength. \"For me, the Chichi sculptures are all the members of the family who are strong women. We are smart, we can work hard, we take care of our children, we take responsibility – we're great!\" Martina said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We come in all shapes and sizes, and with all the colours and happiness in the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Lately, there is a lot of talk about body positivity. The Chichis help with this because they prove the shape of the body has nothing to do with the soul – how you feel, how happy you are, how important you are, and how hard you are working. For me, the sculptures show that women are truly amazing. We come in all shapes and sizes, and with all the colours and happiness in the world.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-02T10:15:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A Caribbean take on body positivity","headlineShort":"The island breaking beauty standards","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"12.1696","longitude":"-68.9900","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"An important part of Curacao's dushi (sweet) culture, Mama and Chichi sculptures can be found across the island and have come to represent the beauty of the female form.","summaryShort":"Few people know the story behind these vibrant and voluptuous figures","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-01T21:16:06.868403Z","entity":"article","guid":"268f4856-647c-411c-8aad-d0504a4086f7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:12.561337Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396251},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish","_id":"62c211b31f4b7b20470331f8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fabigail-blasi"],"bodyIntro":"While most of Tobago's food specialties – such as shark and bake, doubles and callaloo – originated in Trinidad, crab and dumpling is quintessential Tobago.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe birdsong was the loudest that I'd ever heard, backed by the rolling crash of the ocean. Hummingbirds whirred. Trees were weighed down with ripe mangoes, tangled creepers and leaves the size of frisbees. I was searching for crabs with local chef Sherwin Clark in the stretch of Tobago's emerald coastal forest that backs Englishman's Bay, whose apricot sands are patterned not by footprints but by the swish of iguana tails.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECatching the crabs was the first step in making crab and dumpling, Tobago's signature dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocals are rightly proud of this salty, spicy, coconut-milk-infused curry that's made with sweet local manicou crabs and served with cornmeal-and-flour dumplings. That's partly because Tobago, the smaller, north-easterly island of the Republic of Trinidad & Tobago, is often overshadowed by its larger sibling. Most local food specialties, such as shark and bake, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edoubles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and callaloo, originate in Trinidad and are eaten across both islands, but crab and dumpling is quintessential Tobago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Trinis come over here to eat it. It's a Tobago thing,\" Clark told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj8sxr"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe other reason is that the dish is intimately connected with the Tobagonian landscape. Tobago is a land of plenty, with astonishing biodiversity including more than 260 species of birds. It's also home to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Ftentativelists\u002F5646\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworld's oldest protected rainforest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is where these unique freshwater land crabs live, scuttling along the forest floor and in mountain streams rather than the marine environment usually associated with crabs. While sea crabs are also abundant in Tobago, the sweeter land crab meat is preferred for the dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Crab and dumpling is the epitome of Tobago's food landscape. It is an 'ah we' dish, meaning that it comes from us, it is part of us,\" said Renee J Robley, who blogs on Caribbean cuisine at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.thisbagogirl.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThisbagogirl\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENowadays associated with beach life and good times, crab and dumpling has roots in a shameful history. Like other British West Indian colonies, 18th-Century Tobago was exploited by the British as a base for sugar plantations, maintained through the labour of enslaved Africans and, later, indentured Indians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELizzie Collingham, culinary historian and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguin.com.au\u002Fbooks\u002Fthe-hungry-empire-9780099586951\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Hungry Empire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, describes the conditions that African slaves endured here as \"brutal\", adding that they were given cornmeal and substandard saltfish to eat, and thus looked for other means of nutrition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's likely the African slaves were familiar with catching crabs, as they would have probably caught them in the mangrove swamps of West Africa,\" she said. The enslaved African also introduced dumplings to the Caribbean, called \"journey cake\" or \"Johnny cake\", which they could transport easily and cook on hot stones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj8t9p"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFollowing the abolition of slavery in the 19th Century, the British were faced with a problem: where to find workers for their plantations. This coincided with the Industrial Revolution, which caused cheap, machine-made English cotton to flood the Indian market and put thousands of Indian textile workers out of work. The British seized the opportunity, and over the next few decades transported more than 140,000 Indians to Trinidad & Tobago as indentured labourers. Workers signed contracts – that they were often unable to read – for five years servitude on minimal pay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The labourers wouldn't have been able to bring anything with them,\" Collingham said. \"But the British would have been aware that they would have to provide spices for the Indian labourers. The British imported their own curry powder and gave it as a ration.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver time, these Indian and African traditions and flavours merged to form the beloved dish, which is now sold from clapboard beach kiosks across the island, painted in lime-green, papaya-orange and mango-yellow, the colours of the Caribbean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's a fusion of the best of us, of our African and our Indian heritage, so we have the spices from India and the coconut milk, fused together with the local seafood","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAmong these, on Store Bay Beach close to Pigeon Point, is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fmisstrimsfoods\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMiss Trim's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Tobago's best-known crab and dumpling stand. Meisha Trim is the second-generation Miss Trim to run the place; her mother started selling her homecooked food on a street stall, graduating to the beach hut around 30 years ago. When I visited, Trim proudly told me how the Tobagonian mix of cultures created the dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's a fusion of the best of us, of our African and our Indian heritage, so we have the spices from India and the coconut milk, fused together with the local seafood.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj8sqk"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's the food of the beach,\" she added. \"If you're going to a beach lime [event], or after harvest at the church, if you want to celebrate anything that's essentially Tobagonian, you will eat crab and dumpling.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was eager to try it myself, and luckily Clark and I caught six crabs using his homemade wooden boxes with trapdoors. In the forest, he'd pointed out some small hollows in the sandy floor: these were the crab burrows, close to a stream. As he'd set the traps, squeezing mangoes plucked from a nearby tree around the burrows to lure them, he told me that early evening is the best time to snare land crabs, when he could sometimes catch tens at a time. When we returned later that evening, we found six manicou crabs in the traps, which he showed me how to hold safely, avoiding their fronts, telling me that \"their bites are like knives\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo cook them, we headed to Clark's yellow-slatted restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lonelyplanet.com\u002Ftrinidad-tobago\u002Fcastara\u002Frestaurants\u002Fmarguerite-s\u002Fa\u002Fpoi-eat\u002F1398424\u002F1317167\"\u003EMarguerite's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located just behind the beach in Castara, a remote Tobagonian village that prides itself on its authentic Caribbean cuisine. Marguerite's is one of the best places to eat crab and dumpling in Tobago. Sherwin comes from a long line of cooks: his parents run one of the village's open-air ovens and two of his brothers have restaurants, too. His grandmother taught him the recipe, he told me, and he has been catching the crabs since he was a child.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his yellow-painted kitchen, with saucepans hanging on the walls and lace curtains at the windows, Clark showed me the dough he'd prepared for the dumplings, a mix of cornmeal, wheat flour and water. He marinated the crabs in ginger and garlic, and began the sauce by pouring a ladle of vegetable oil to heat with a clove of garlic, then added curry powder mixed with a little water, which sizzled in the oil, sending up a fragrance of mingling spices. Once the sauce was bubbling, Clark added the crabs and a squirt of ketchup, followed by a litre of coconut milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj8sf2"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the curry simmered, the flavours turning richer as they merged with the sweet-scented coconut, Sherwin rolled out the dumplings into half-moon shapes. He cooked them in boiling water for around 10 minutes while the curry sauce bubbled, reducing, alongside. He added a little fresh red chilli pepper to the sauce, \"but only for taste, not for spice\". In just half an hour, the dish was ready to eat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I prefer to eat crab and dumpling at home, so I can relax into the mess","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe sat at a table with a view onto the trickle of the river that runs through Castara out to the hot-blue Caribbean Sea, watching Rasta fishermen hauling in their nets. Clark watched with amusement as I started trying to eat the dish with a knife and fork. These are crabs that are all leg with not much body, and it soon became clear that the only way to eat it was to dig in with both hands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I prefer to eat crab and dumpling at home, so I can relax into the mess,\" he told me, laughing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was worth the effort to eke out slivers of the delicacy, though: richly flavoursome and perfectly spiced, the sauce was elevated by the sweet crab morsels and soaked up by the dumplings. Trim was right when she'd told me, \"It's an assault on all your senses. You smell it first, the smell is very distinct, the gravy is thick and rich because of the coconut. The spices come at you very fast.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Trim, sometimes people just order the crab gravy if they don't want the mess of cracking open the crab. However, getting the flavour from the crab legs is like unlocking the essence of Tobago. It's the beach, sunshine, the time to crack the crab. It's a fusion of ingredients from afar, a tangled feast born out of necessity, and a rich, intermingled culture that's as captivating as the sauce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj8s1n"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-04T21:55:08Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The taste of Tobago in just one dish","headlineShort":"The crab dish with a shameful history","image":["p0cj8skv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"10.6918","longitude":"-61.2225","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cj8skv"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220201-a-caribbean-take-on-body-positivity"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While most of Tobago's food specialties – such as shark and bake, doubles and callaloo – originated in Trinidad, crab and dumpling is quintessential Tobago.","summaryShort":"Just don't try to eat it with a knife and fork","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-03T22:00:44.807611Z","entity":"article","guid":"123b0078-7a5f-460d-9c99-b556917044ae","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-05T21:04:22.547332Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcaribbean"],"destinationStat":"caribbean","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396251},"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:external:travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","_id":"62b4208f1f4b7b64c17b3794","name":"World's Table","primaryVertical":"travel","sourceName":"Changing how the world thinks about food","sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","summaryLong":"BBC.com \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.","summaryShort":"World's Table","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"creationDateTime":"2022-02-23T14:52:13.800605Z","entity":"external","guid":"2ae4a402-4711-426f-adf7-a9b658a43fcd","id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T12:44:54.740029Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","image":["p09xq72k"],"promoImage":["p09xq72k"],"articleType":"external","headlineShort":"World's Table","promoAlignment":"center","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen","_id":"62b4203c1f4b7b29297fd870","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famanda-ruggeri"],"bodyIntro":"One of the UK's only privately owned villages, picturesque, pedestrian-only Clovelly has inspired numerous artists and writers, from JMW Turner to Charles Dickens.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere are two immediate signs that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClovelly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located on the coast of Devon in South West England, isn't your usual seaside village. The first is that the only access is through the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fmap\u002Fclovelly-visitor-centre\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evisitor centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which charges £8.50 per adult for entrance (£4.95 for children). The second is the sledges. They stand at attention at the top of the cobbled walk that runs through the town's steep lanes of cottages and down to Clovelly's harbour, 120m below, ready for the next time a resident comes back from the shops and needs to lug their purchases home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey might seem out of place to a first-time visitor. But both the visitor centre, opened in 1988, and the sledges, which largely replaced donkeys by the 1970s, are ways in which this 1,000-year-old community has adapted to modern times – while still preserving the rhythms of the past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven today, there are no cars in Clovelly. (It would be too steep for them to get access even if the town wanted them.) There are no chain stores, no traffic noises, no light pollution. Instead, there are cobbled lanes, whitewashed cottages, small boats bobbing in the 14th-Century stone quay, fat bees and butterflies feeding on flowers, and, almost everywhere, the sound, smells and sight of the Atlantic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Moving to a teeny tiny cottage on the edge of a cliff was something I never imagined,\" said Ellie Jarvis, who came from London to Clovelly for six months in 2007 to help run her family's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovellysilk.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esilk workshop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and never left. \"But what is so beautiful and unique about Clovelly is not only the cobbles and all the obvious things that you see as a tourist. It's the fact that you're living with the past.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd that past extends a long way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb5bz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the 11th Century, when it was listed in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationalarchives.gov.uk\u002Fdomesday\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDomesday Book\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, England's earliest public record, Clovelly was owned by William the Conqueror himself. The king later gave the village to his wife \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.newworldencyclopedia.org\u002Fentry\u002FMatilda_of_Flanders\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMatilda of Flanders\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, England's first crowned queen. It still retains a quaint, yesteryear feel – a big part of why it was a main location for the films Sense & Sensibility (2008) and The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society (2018); and why, over the centuries, the village has inspired artists and writers from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20140915-how-turner-set-painting-free\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJMW Turner\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to Charles Dickens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFew have seen Clovelly as more of a muse than the 19th-Century novelist and poet \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fbiography\u002FCharles-Kingsley\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECharles Kingsley\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, however, who lived here as a child. \"Now that you have seen the dear old Paradise you know what was the inspiration of my life before I met you,\" he wrote to his wife after her first visit in 1854.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb5r3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's true that there are, of course, other picturesque, historical fishing villages in the area without entrance fees. But what appears authentic on first sight can collapse at a closer look. Many idyllic spots have been hollowed out by holiday lets\u003Cstrong\u003E,\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E leaving them bursting with tourists in summer and emptied out in the off season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt Clovelly, where some 300 people live in the village's 83 cottages, the experience is the reverse. Get past the visitor centre and its souvenir shop, and there is a real – and vibrant – group of residents behind it all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There is an actual community that lives here,\" said Cass Mcfarlane, who moved here in autumn 2021 from London and runs a sweet shop in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fmap\u002Fkingsley-museum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKingsley Cottage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a small museum devoted to the writer. \"And it's an active, bubbly community, from all ages and walks of life. There's always someone to see and talk to.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb5yw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough I'd been to the village before, I first saw this for myself in the run up to Christmas. Everyone in my own town, 15 miles south of Clovelly, had been asking if we were going to see Clovelly's Christmas lights. When we arrived, the lanes were even more packed than they had been at the height of the summer tourist season. A band of local schoolchildren played Christmas carols; people greeted one another on the cobbled streets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Very often a visitor would possibly make, I think, the mistake of thinking that it was a sleepy village. And it really isn't,\" said Jarvis. \"There's a lot going on.\" Festivals, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fevents\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eevents\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, theatre. At the same time, she added, \"There's a more gentle way of life here. I'm forever telling my children that there's always someone watching them. They cannot misbehave – there's always an audience.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb62y"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat tight-knit, dynamic aspect of Clovelly's community has been nurtured by design, according to the owner of Clovelly, Hon. John Rous. \"It was always important to me that Clovelly should remain a living village,\" he said when we met at his estate office, a jumble of pleasant stone buildings in the shadow of Clovelly's 12th-Century \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fclovellyparish.org.uk\u002Fparish-organisations-and-contacts\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAll Saints church\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"I didn't want to go down the holiday lets line. I didn't want to go down even a timeshare basis.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow 71, Rous inherited the village from his mother, a countess, in 1983. This is the other reason Clovelly is unusual: it is one of the UK's only privately owned villages. Not only that, but the Rous family is only the third family to own it since the 1200s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb64k"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the heyday of aristocracy, this was common. A landowning family would not only employ people to work their farms, but lease them homes and shops, too. But in the same way that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-30004491\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eso many of the grand houses of yesteryear had to be given up\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, so too did the villages. It was no different at Clovelly, where, by the 1980s, Rous' family had been selling off parts of the estate – which spreads over 2,000 acres of North Devon – to be able to finance the rest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was a very difficult time. There was not much income being generated from the estate – a little bit of tourism income,\" Rous said. \"I thought, I don't really want to get involved in a sort of managed decline. We've got to try and stop the rot and be self-financing. And so, I realised that we needed to make some major investment in tourism.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis meant building the visitor centre and, for the first time, charging an entrance fee to the village, rather than a car park charge. To his surprise, visitor numbers went up, not down. (Today, there are about 150,000 a year.) Still, the move was viewed with scepticism. Even now, more than 30 years later, a quick look on Tripadvisor shows that plenty of visitors remain irritated about having to pay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut that income has kept Clovelly intact, Rous said. And it has allowed for a programme of renovation of the cottages, some of which date to at least the 15th Century – and all of which are subject to the wet, wild, windy weather that this part of the English coastline is known for, with all of its upkeep challenges, from mould to damaged roofs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb658"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe tourism income has also allowed Clovelly to maintain an unusual policy for this part of the world: there are no second homes or absentee landlords allowed. (Rous, the only landlord, lives on the estate himself, in Clovelly Manor; while the original manor burned down in 1943 in World War Two, its walled gardens, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fseeing-clovelly\u002Fclovelly-court-gardens\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClovelly Court Gardens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, survived intact and are included in the visitor fee.) As a condition of their tenancy, residents are required to live here full-time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor longer-term residents like Jarvis, that meant having to change houses several times as her family expanded. Her two boys, aged nine and 13, have grown up here. There are certain days of the year where multiple households move at once in a kind of game of musical chairs, but with sledges instead of moving vans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESpeaking of the sledges, residents say that these are not just quirks. They are an integral part of Clovelly life. Everybody has their own, which they keep at the top of the village. When locals order groceries, the delivery vans know, on seeing \"Clovelly\" on the address, to give a 15-minute heads up before they arrive so the customer has time to trudge to the top of the village and get their sledge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There is no secret way of getting things down,\" said Mcfarlane. \"This morning, I saw a gentleman with a new washing machine and a new cooker. Last year, a grand piano came down.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb669"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany residents see it as a small price to pay for the privilege of living in such an idyllic spot. At high tide, Jarvis' boys can jump from their kitchen door straight into the sea. Other residents agree that the inconveniences are worth it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Once you've made your mind up, the transition from gas and central heating to putting logs and coal on your sledge and letting gravity bring it down, and chopping wood and making the Raven [wood stove], it just feels right,\" said Dave Francis, who moved to Clovelly in 2020 and runs the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdonkeyshoeshop.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDonkey Shoe Shop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with his wife, Jakki. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile it's easy for visitors to forget, the Clovelly estate is far more than the village. It includes 700 acres of woodland, three large farms, the working harbour, gardens and even a sawmill. Some 80 employees keep it all going. That all brings challenges – from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.environment.act.gov.au\u002Fact-nrm\u002Fbiodiversity\u002Fbiodiversity-investment-plan\u002Fclimate-change-adaptation\u002Fdieback\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edieback\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the woodlands to garden upgrades to the unending upkeep of the cottages. (\"The nasty thing about that is that you could spend loads and loads of money and hardly notice a difference,\" Rous remarked, especially since the restorations are done with historical sensitivity, such as reroofing in stone or slate instead of cheaper materials.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgb66r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite the challenges, Rous, who speaks with passion about every aspect of running the estate, continues to look forwards. He wants to encourage Clovelly's burgeoning crafting industry (together with silk-maker Jarvis, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheclovellysoapcompany.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esoap-maker\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.clovelly.co.uk\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fcraft-workshops\u002Fclovelly-pottery\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epotter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E also have workshops here), as well as the village's historical links to fishing and the sea. He's even thinking about introducing small-scale oyster farming in the bay. \"We've got to continually evolve and adapt to changing circumstances,\" he said, even while preserving the past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Jarvis and others, when it comes to finding this balance, Clovelly succeeds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It isn't an easy way of life; it isn't straightforward. You can't compare living here to anywhere else,\" Jarvis said. \"But you just fall in love.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think you live here with all of your heart.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-22T10:19:31Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The village once owned by England's first queen","headlineShort":"The UK village that you pay to enter","image":["p0cg9tnk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.9981","longitude":"-4.3991","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cg9tnk"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"One of the UK's only privately owned villages, picturesque, pedestrian-only Clovelly has inspired numerous artists and writers, from JMW Turner to Charles Dickens.","summaryShort":"It was once owned by William the Conqueror himself","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Fheritage"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-21T23:38:15.957254Z","entity":"article","guid":"844a17ab-1c22-42b7-9760-a2061721800e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-22T15:11:21.884081Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed","_id":"62b4203a1f4b7b2e4d2753c9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Alain Ducasse says the pandemic accelerated the evolution of French cuisine. But some are in no hurry to abandon the generations-old rituals that define the Gallic art of eating.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"French cuisine has always been in a state of movement,\" said famed French chef Alain Ducasse, taking a sip of crimson-hued sparkling wine, surrounded by the empty wooden tables of his Paris restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.auxlyonnais.com\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAux Lyonnais\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It was a warm day in March 2021. A soft breeze floated into the restaurant through the takeaway window, sunbeams illuminating the empty burgundy leather booths. The maitre d', dressed in a suit, glided between the kitchen and the curb, brown paper bags brimming with plant-based fare ready to hand off for delivery. The crinkling of the bags in motion was the loudest sound in the room.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"French cuisine has always been in a state of movement","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThings are different now. After months of lockdown measures, curfews and restaurant closures, Paris is slowly beginning to resemble its former self. The packed tables of cafe terrasses spill off pavements and onto boulevards, waiters once again balancing glasses of rosé on silver platters and cigarette smoke lingering in a never-fading cloud. The chirping birds along the Boulevard Saint-Germain have been replaced by the constant drone of revving engines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Chef Alain Ducasse sitting at a table at his Paris restaurant Aux Lyonnais","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut according to Ducasse – currently the world's most Michelin-starred chef and emblematic figure of French gastronomy, often nicknamed the \"godfather\" of French cuisine – gastronomy had been quietly evolving behind the doors of shuttered kitchens during the pandemic's darkest days. He says Covid-19 accelerated the next \"re-evolution\" of French gastronomy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn March 2020, the order to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-51892477\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eshut down restaurants\u003C\u002Fa\u003E due to the pandemic sent chefs into a tailspin. After getting the news on a Saturday evening with a room full of diners, Ducasse learned he would need to close at midnight, without any foresight as to when they might reopen. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We lost a lot of merchandise, and gave a lot of merchandise to employees,\" he said. \"It was too fast.\" France's dining scene ground to a halt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDucasse took a sip of wine. Behind him, an antique clock sat atop a mirror in the back corner of the restaurant. It was stuck on 06:43. He put a paper napkin on his lap. \"The French are very strongly rooted in tradition,\" he said, laying out bamboo cutlery with concentration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Empty Avenue des Champs Elysees and Place Charles de Gaulle during Coronavirus lockdown","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2010, Unesco inscribed the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fich.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002FRL\u002Fgastronomic-meal-of-the-french-00437\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egastronomic meal of the French\u003C\u002Fa\u003E onto its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, permanently enshrining the French meal under its protection. However, the designation isn't just about the food. It emphasises all the traditional elements that comprise a gastronomic meal in France, from the notion of conviviality – the idea of gathering together in a warm-hearted atmosphere – to the thoughtful selection of high-quality local produce. Other elements in the designation include table setting, food and wine pairings and a fixed meal structure. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe designation underscores the importance of dining as a process, which has even been enshrined into French law: until the pandemic, for example, it had been \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp096gb9c\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eillegal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for employees in France to eat lunch at their desks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFast-forward to 2020 amid continued restaurant closures, where delivery drivers sped down deserted Parisian streets, shuttling Michelin-starred cuisine ready to be plated up against the backdrop of the latest Netflix series.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The re-evolution in cuisine is freedom","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Ducasse didn't see this pandemic shift as a threat to French gastronomy. It was an opportunity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The re-evolution in cuisine is freedom,\" he said. In France, such progressions aren't new. The last momentous evolution of French food – Nouvelle Cuisine, spearheaded by Paul Bocuse in the 1970s – was in large part driven by the desire by chefs to create cuisine for which they themselves would be recognised, breaking from traditional dishes to make lighter, healthier and hyper-personalised dishes that challenged some of the rules of classic French cooking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet the traditional ritual around the meal remained rigid. A mere few years ago, the topic of the \"doggy-bag\" – bringing leftover food home from a restaurant – sparked \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2014\u002F11\u002F14\u002Fworld\u002Feurope\u002Fbrushing-off-a-french-stigma-that-doggie-bags-are-for-beggars-.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enational debate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Now, it's mandatory for restaurants to provide takeaway materials to diners in an effort to cut food waste, prompting the Ministry of Agriculture to rebrand the practice as the sexier\"gourmet bag\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Short: Delivery person wearing a protective mask riding bike near Jardin des Tuileries in Paris","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDucasse is not a figure that one would traditionally associate with takeaway, paper napkins or cheap food. But in April 2020, Ducasse, who had never offered a takeaway or delivery service before – or even considered it – launched \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ducasse-chezmoi.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDucasse Chez Moi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an online delivery platform featuring a selection of dishes from his Paris restaurants including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.restaurant-champeaux.com\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChampeaux\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spoon-restaurant.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpoon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. As part of the shift, he also launched \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.naturaliste-paris.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENaturaliste\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an inexpensive, plant-forward delivery and takeaway restaurant in the kitchen of Aux Lyonnais, behind its shuttered dining room. Essentially, a ghost kitchen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We would have never dared to do it if we didn't have to. It was an opportunity. Restaurants were closed, so we said we're going to try food differently,\" he explained. \"It would be accessible; a food that we could deliver, and a food specially edited for delivery.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The new consumer is curious… Unfaithful. You have to seduce them","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I spoke with Ducasse in March, he didn't seem fazed by the transition to delivery. He was sitting up straight in his wooden chair, gesticulating with enthusiasm as he talked about his ideas for the future. The maitre d' was busy greeting customers at the takeaway window, taking orders for Naturaliste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Ducasse, Covid-19 sped up France's next gastronomical evolution, which he says is marked by a profound desire for human contact, an interplay between global influence and local produce, the growing role of plant-based cuisine and a rapidly evolving consumer. \"The new consumer is curious… Unfaithful. You have to seduce them,\" he said. \"You have to take them on a journey.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Image of takeaway container with braised spring vegetables from Naturaliste in Paris","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaryann Tebben, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpress.uchicago.edu\u002Fucp\u002Fbooks\u002Fbook\u002Fdistributed\u002FS\u002Fbo70563942.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESavoir-Faire: A History of Food in France\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eexpands on the notion of a changing consumer, reflecting on how \"they hear about it, they're reading about it, they're careful about the ecological footprint that they have, and they're more savvy than their parents or grandparents were about what food does for the environment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I think of French cuisine, plant-based cooking isn't the first thing that comes to mind. I think of meat, of Toulouse sausage, foie gras and calf brains. But, Ducasse points out, the growing emphasis on plant-based dishes didn't happen overnight; in recent years, vegetable-forward menus have been growing in the nation's top kitchens. And at Ducasse's restaurants, this focus goes back even further.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1987, he introduced plant-based menu Jardins de Provence to his three-Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ducasse-paris.com\u002Fen\u002Faddresses\u002Flouis-xv-alain-ducasse-hotel-paris\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Louis XV\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant in Monaco. Now, \"30-40% of clients choose this 100% vegetarian menu,\" he explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200520-rice-pudding-a-simple-french-dish-made-from-pantry-staples\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA simple French dish made from pantry staples\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191120-anne-sophie-pic-the-chef-who-rules-france\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAnne-Sophie Pic: the chef who rules France\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Basque cake made with a 280-year-old water mill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPatrick Rambourg, a researcher specialising in French gastronomy and the author of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpatrickrambourg.unblog.fr\u002F2012\u002F07\u002F16\u002Fhistoire-de-la-cuisine-et-de-la-gastronomie-francaises\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHistoire de la cuisine et de la gastronomie françaises\u003C\u002Fa\u003E(History of French cuisine and gastronomy),has also been observing the transition to more sustainable cuisine in recent years. He agrees that France is in the midst of its next culinary evolution; and in his view, it wasn't catalysed by the pandemic. Instead, the movement has been slow and profound, he believes, growing due to an interplay between changing consumer demands and the eagerness of chefs to embrace the challenge of transforming vegetables into the star of a dish. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The chefs are aware of a changing consumer that cares about where products come from. There are also people that want to eat high-end cuisine, gastronomy, but don't want to eat something unhealthy,\" he said. \"There's a change in consciousness around cuisine. Kitchens don't have a choice but to adapt.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever it has come about, Ducasse is embracing the shift toward sustainable, vegetable-forward cuisine. In September, Naturaliste will transform into Sapid, a more permanent plant-based restaurant centred around conviviality on Rue Paradis in Paris's 10th arrondissement. It will feature a refectory-setup with communal tables, encouraging the social contact that people lacked during the past year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People dining outside at cafe and restaurant terraces along Paris's Seine river at dusk","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack at Aux Lyonnais, the maitre d' reappeared and placed two cardboard boxes on the table. I peeked inside. The dishes – roasted cabbage with avocado and smoked eel, and braised seasonal vegetables with sauteed mushrooms and quinoa – were the creations of young Peruvian chef Marvic Medina Matos, who has worked in the kitchens of three Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alainducasse-plazaathenee.com\u002Ffr\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alainducasse-meurice.com\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Meurice Alain Ducasse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer dishes emphasise local produce and sustainability. \"We work with respect to the seasons, and our menu changes according to the season,\" she told me. \"I love putting the producers and ingredients forward.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDucasse frames this next re-evolution of French cuisine as \"local in production, global in the vision\" with careful attention to the quality of ingredients, recalling Unesco's insistence on \"the balance between human beings and the products of nature\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHuman beings, however, are not as malleable as farm-grown asparagus or the country's hundreds of varieties of cheese. Evolution is shaped as much by resistance as by change, and some are in no hurry to abandon the generations-old rituals that define the Gallic art of eating.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EFrance's cultural rituals have endured wars and revolutions. Ultimately, amid a year of stay-at-home orders and delivery-bound gastronomy, have the French changed their habits?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDucasse looked down at his glass. \"They've kept the bad habits,\" he said with a grin, taking another sip of sparkling wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-23T15:13:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Is French cuisine forever changed?","headlineShort":"Is French cuisine forever changed?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Alain Ducasse is often nicknamed the \"godfather\" of French cuisine","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.8707445","longitude":"2.3365293","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Alain Ducasse is often nicknamed the \"godfather\" of French cuisine","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Alain Ducasse says the pandemic accelerated the evolution of French cuisine. But some are in no hurry to abandon the generations-old rituals that define the Gallic art of eating.","summaryShort":"The French revolution that has chefs sharpening their knives","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-22T15:57:15.170243Z","entity":"article","guid":"e50b0403-a879-455f-8d47-3ab2121c48b6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T03:29:04.195102Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396253},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","_id":"62b4203c1f4b7b2e4e046137","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Menton was once the top lemon growing region in all of Europe but had seen a steep decline over the centuries. Recently, however, producers are again seeing the fruit's potential.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you want to know just how attached the people of the coastal town of Menton are to their beloved lemon, look no further than the legend that credits its arrival on the French Riviera to Eve. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExpelled from the garden of Eden, the story goes, Eve plucked a lemon to take with her on the journey. Adam, fearing eternal condemnation, begged her to throw it away, which she obliged to do only in a spot of her choosing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd thus, she found Menton, situated on the gleaming Bay of Garavan where the Alps rescind from the water just enough to create slopes with an east-west alignment – the perfect conditions for cultivating lemons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the legend itself is impossible to authenticate, the symbolism of the paradisiacal lemon is embedded in the folklore of this seaside town of about 30,000 inhabitants, where the bus line is called \"Zeste\" and a lemon motif seems the logical choice for many local businesses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe town swells to nearly double its size during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fete-du-citron.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFête du Citron\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an annual festival held in February celebrating the history and culture of citrus growing in the region, most notably of the Menton lemon, an officially recognised species that differs from Corsican, Spanish or Italian varieties in terms of its mild flavour and large, round shape with bumpy skin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe allure of the festival lies in its floats and sculptures, each with more than three tonnes of lemons and oranges rubber-banded to a wire framework shaped to match the year's theme. The Fête du Citron stands apart from other Carnival events in France in that municipal workers who spend most of the year maintaining city buildings are also the ones who prepare the floats and sculptures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETitled Operas and Dances, the 2022 edition marked a triumphant return for the festival after it was cancelled midway through in 2020 due to the coronavirus pandemic. The Sunday parade was a jubilee of blaring marching bands, vibrant performers and six floats covered in lemons and oranges, some as tall as 10m, sculpted to represent the Samba, Can-can, Haka, Matachines, Salsa and Kathakali dance styles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe French take on a trendy 'superfood'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210708-the-basque-cake-made-with-a-280-year-old-water-mill\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe cake made with a 280-year-old water mill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs French cuisine forever changed?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom the floats, performers in costume worked alongside smiling city employees in neon-green safety vests to shower a seemingly infinite amount of confetti on the 15,000 spectators, whose outstretched arms made it clear they couldn't get enough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the party raged on in the valley, the terraced hillsides overlooking the town harboured a harsher reality: Menton was once the leading lemon-growing region in all of Europe, but today, only about 15 producers remain. All the fruit for the Fête du Citron's sculptures and floats must be imported from Spain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The annual production of Menton lemons is between 100 and 120 tonnes. In this period, we need between 150 and 180 tonnes of lemons and oranges. So, the production of Menton lemons wouldn't be enough to create the whole of the Fête du Citron,\" said Christophe Ghiena, the city's director of technical services, who added that the remaining citrus is sold at discounted prices after the festival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAside from its Biblical legend, the documented story of the Menton lemon's rise and fall began with its arrival from Spain in the 15th Century. The fruit quickly adapted to Menton's temperate microclimate created by the unique combination of a protective mountain range and proximity to the ocean. By the end of the 18th Century, the region was estimated to produce one million lemons annually, said David Rousseau, director of Menton's heritage department.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In the 17th, 18th and 19th Centuries, the lemon was really the fortune of the city of Menton. Lemons were exported all the way to the United States, to Russia. It was a production of global scale,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was a production of global scale","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Menton lemon's decline began at the end of the French Revolution, when laws that had protected it against competition from other lemon-producing regions were lifted. The second blow came in the 19th Century, when the arrival of British winter tourists prompted the construction of hotels and villas on land used for citrus terraces. Finally, in the 1950s, an unusual cold snap spelled the Menton lemon's demise. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There was a big freeze in Menton and in France, which killed the remaining lemon trees,\" Rousseau said. \"It was in the 1980s that the lemon began to come back thanks to several producers who saw the lemon had potential and relaunched its production.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne such grower is Laurent Gannac. Originally from the southwest of France, Gannac arrived in Menton in 1988 to work as a landscaper. He said that every time he brought lemon trees to clients in the area, he'd get the same question: Is this a \u003Cem\u003EMenton\u003C\u002Fem\u003E lemon?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I had scientific, agricultural training and I'd never even heard of a Menton lemon,\" he said. \"So, I'd say to them 'Well, I brought it from Menton so I guess it's a Menton lemon if you want.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe soon became curious about the species and, in 1991, he planted his first Menton lemon tree. At the time, the few remaining producers questioned why a young person would be interested in a seemingly bygone product, Gannac said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Gannac and his son own 750 trees on 2.5 hectares of land with the goal of reaching 1,000 trees in the next three years. Although his operation pales in comparison to the output of producers in Spain or Italy, Gannac is proud to call himself the first person in recent years to live entirely off the Menton lemon. Yet, he is one of very few.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"To plant 400 trees here means to start with a site that's completely abandoned, clear it, level the terraces, create irrigation reservoirs and fence it to protect from wild boars,\" he said. \"It's a lot of work, especially when you consider it takes eight years to recoup the investment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, Gannac says he believes the tide is changing, thanks in large part to an effort by local officials, growers and other stakeholders to achieve the European Union's Protected Geographical Indication for the Menton lemon, which it received in 2015.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough he had been cultivating the Menton lemon for nearly two decades at the time, it was during this process that Gannac was confronted with the uniqueness of the species during a visit to France's National Institute for Agricultural Research. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I always thought the Mentonnais were a little biased about their lemon,\" he said. \"When I had the chance to go from tree to tree and taste each lemon, I realised that the real Menton lemon is actually different from others in its scent, sweetness and peel that is so mild it can be eaten.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Menton lemon has also been praised for its thick skin and high essential oil content which makes it a favourite of well-known chefs like Mauro Colagreco at the helm of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mirazur.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMirazur\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the Menton restaurant ranked number one in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eater.com\u002Fworlds-50-best-restaurants-awards\u002F2019\u002F6\u002F25\u002F18714984\u002Fworlds-50-best-restaurants-2019\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld's 50 Best in 2019\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"The Menton lemon is a very rare product. It has a different flavour and texture from the lemons you find elsewhere and can even be eaten directly from the tree (as a fruit). In our five gardens, we want to keep this exceptional variety. Each year we plant new trees to perpetuate the culture,\" Colagreco said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhen in season, the chef uses the fruit in dishes like a Menton lemon tart or a \u003Cem\u003Etourbillon \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(swirl) of fish larvae with Menton lemon and chives. He also produces a lemon confit to \"remember the flavour all year long\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EColagreco is not the only chef who has become an ambassador of the species. Luisa Delpiano-Inversi is the founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pastapiemonte.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPasta Piemonte\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Menton-based pasta producer that opened in 2013. Shortly thereafter, Delpiano-Inversi found success with her Menton lemon ravioli, an unexpected combination that she now ships across France for those who live far from the Riviera to experience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"This lemon resembles no other,\" she wrote in her 2017 \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.apple.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on the topic. \"Its juice is intensely fragrant with a semi-acidic flavour and no bitterness.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGannac said he remembers a time when the Menton lemon was little more than a pretext used to draw in tourists during the Fête du Citron, which began in 1934. As French consumers become increasingly interested in local products, Gannac now credits the Fête with giving him an opportunity to meet his customers and speak about the uniqueness of his fruit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERousseau agrees that the recent editions of the Fête du Citron have helped bring more awareness to the Menton lemon. Many of this year's guided tours of lemon terraces were sold out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The visitors are a lot more interested in the story of the Menton lemon than before. Before they came mostly to see the sculptures and attend the parade,\" he said. \"Today, they really wish to discover the city and not just come to see the floats.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps the most promising result of the local effort to revitalise the species can be found in the enthusiasm of the next generation of lemon growers, among them Laetita Sepicacchi, a Menton native who began cultivating her family's property in 2015 in collaboration with the city's initiative to plant more trees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The visitors are a lot more interested in the story of the Menton lemon than before","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the time, Sepicacchi was working in Paris and often travelled home to Menton to rest and recharge. It was during one of these visits that she realised the terraces of the former vineyard were the perfect place to continue the tradition of lemon cultivation. While she waits for her 35 young trees to reach maturity, Sepicacchi harvests about 100kg of fruit per year from three older trees. She sells her lemons to individuals and French and European grocers, although some of her clients have also been reputable perfume producers interested in the essential oils of her lemons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This project allows me to rediscover and transmit a cultural heritage,\" she said. \"It's as if the roots of the trees are grounded in a heritage and an identity at a time when the world is steeped in virtual culture, which can sometimes be materialistic and individualistic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Sepicacchi reflects on her ultimate goal to cultivate the Menton lemon, she imagines a day when lemon trees can once again define the local landscape and support the town's economy, maybe even resembling the French poet Stéphen Liégeard's 1887 description: \"little valleys that leave to the breeze the care to shake passers-by, the heady smell of lemon trees.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EForgotten Foods\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E offers hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life through cooking and cultivation.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-29T14:20:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The return of France's lost lemon","headlineShort":"How a French town lost its lemons","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.7960375","longitude":"7.4636967","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Menton was once the top lemon growing region in all of Europe but had seen a steep decline over the centuries. Recently, however, producers are again seeing the fruit's potential.","summaryShort":"Sadly, all its fruit must be imported from Spain","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-28T14:22:42.099931Z","entity":"article","guid":"abb3da5b-bea2-4a48-b080-e9b5e8891c25","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-29T06:41:49.702209Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396255},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood","_id":"62b4203a1f4b7b32e549576c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Fisherwoman Scarlette Le Corre has spent a lifetime quietly revolutionising fishing in France and the greater story of seaweed cultivation, culture and cuisine in Brittany.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs Scarlette Le Corre edges slowly through the sun-blazed shallows at low tide, emerald sea lettuce and ginger sea spaghetti kaleidoscope around her rubber boots like two-tone marbling ink. No step is taken without first scrutinising the marine life at her feet – this highly trained eye doesn't miss a subaqueous beat. \u003Cem\u003ESnip\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. A head of rock-clinging sea lettuce unveiled by the ebbing ocean is deftly cut off and popped in her bucket of water. \u003Cem\u003ESnip\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. A fistful of coarse red dulse and clumps of green hairy \u003Cem\u003Echeveux de mer\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (grass kelp) – which sea-vegetable gourmets in France simply rinse, twirl in olive oil and eat – get the chop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Nature is generous and gives us many riches,\" said Le Corre. \"I've eaten seaweed for 35 years and am in good form – eat algae and life is \u003Cem\u003Etrès très belle\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDisarmingly petite and passionate, with a tendency not to mince her words, Le Corre is the original female French fisher. Back in 1979 she was one of the nation's first women to pass her \u003Cem\u003EBrevet de mécanicien à la pêche\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, qualifying her to captain a saltwater fishing boat, and has since spent four decades working tirelessly in a masculine industry where women at sea are traditionally believed to bring bad luck. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer day begins at 04.30 in Le Guilvinec, a salt-of-the-earth fishing port in Finistère, southern Brittany – the sort of place where street graffiti reads \u003Cem\u003E\"plus de pêcheurs, moins de supermarchés\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (more fishermen, less supermarkets) and the menfolk spend two weeks at sea working the town's 43-strong fleet of deep-sea trawlers. By 06:00, Le Corre is alone at sea in her 1950s orange-and-white boat called \u003Cem\u003EMon Copain \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(My Boyfriend), tending her cultivated sea fields of wakame garlands or casting her nets for sole, red mullet and the occasional lobster or octopus to sell at morning markets in Le Guilvinec and neighbouring Penmarc'h. Afternoons are spent gathering seaweed on the seashore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There's no room for failure in a profession considered only for men,\" Le Corre told me, as we scrambled lithely across wet, slimy rocks together. \"As a woman in a man's world, I don't ask men for help – I assume complete responsibility to the very end.\" Mention retirement to this feisty grandmother and her pace only quickens. Her secret? \"A slice of bread or toast each morning with \u003Cem\u003Etartare d'algues\u003C\u002Fem\u003E made from raw seaweeds, olive oil, colza oil and rock samphire vinegar,\" she explained proudly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Scarlette Le Corre holding strands of kombu in cooking workshop","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe sea lettuce, dulse and nori Le Corre forages to make the tangy, strong-tasting spread is organic and fresh off the rocks around Pointe de la Men Meur in Le Guilvinec. Long ago historians identified this flat granite headland, pocketed with bizarre lunar-like sinkholes, as the site of a quarry where millstones were dug out in the Middle Ages, and later, until the 17th Century, round stone bases for the many roadside crosses peppering this Celtic region in north-west France.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScavenging for wild algae along Finistère's rocky coast has been a natural pastime in this staunchly seafaring part of the world since time immemorial. The daughter of a fisherman, Le Corre began working with seaweed to supplement her fishing income in the early 1990s – long before the ugly-but-edible sea vegetable became \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea fashionable \"superfood\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Algaculture is a centuries-old living Breton tradition she simply grew up with. \"I have collected seaweed from the moment I could walk. My parents went, and I followed,\" she said. In April alone, at the height of the wild seaweed season, Le Corre typically gathers 10 tonnes of thongweed (sea spaghetti), Breton kombu and royal kombu along the rocky seashore – all by hand with a knife and scissors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Scavenging for wild algae along Finistère's rocky coast has been a natural pastime in this staunchly seafaring part of the world since time immemorial.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPowerful memorabilia at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ecomusee-plouguerneau.fr\u002F\"\u003EÉcomusée des Goémoniers et de l'Algue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Museum of Seaweed Harvesters and Seaweed) in the village of Plouguerneau, further along the coast in Pays des Abers, tells the Breton algaculture tale. Black-and-white photographs show 19th-Century \u003Cem\u003Egoémoniers\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (seaweed harvesters) raking kelp – the generic name for brown drift weeds – washed ashore on sandy Breton beaches and piling it onto horse-drawn wagons with pitchforks. Antiquarian prints depict them carting the kelp off to nearby sand dunes to dry and burn it for several days in open-air ovens. The stench of acrid smoke was vile, but the valuable iodine-rich ash could be sold to iodine factories on the northern coast for glass making. Remaining cinders were scattered on farmland as fertiliser.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther harvesters worked out at sea from flat-bottomed wooden boats, using long-handled sickles to guillotine strands of weed growing in wild underwater kelp forests near the shore and around offshore islands: 25 tonnes of cut kelp produced 1 tonne of ash or 15kg of iodine. Harvesting was strictly seasonal (March to September) and everyone had a second occupation – fishing or farming – to ensure a year-round income.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210613-why-the-french-rarely-say-i-love-you\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy it's hard to find love in France\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180522-the-renaissance-of-northern-irelands-forgotten-seafood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorthern Ireland's forgotten 'seafood'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200311-a-tiny-country-between-france-and-switzerland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe French republic no one knows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, algaculture produces more than 30 million tonnes of seaweed globally a year and is booming (35.82 million tonnes in 2019 compared to 4.2 million in 1990 and 0.56 million in 1950, according to the UN's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fdocuments\u002Fcard\u002Fen\u002Fc\u002Fca9229en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFood & Agriculture Organisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E's 2020 World Fisheries and Aquaculture Report). However, European farmers remain responsible for less than 1% of world production and favour wild stock over farmed. But in Brittany, where the rocky coastline tangoes for 2,700km and 1,000-odd islands and islets speckle the pristine offshore waters, the landscape is slightly different. Exceptional water quality, coupled with miles of protective rocky shores to keep strong currents at bay, render Brittany seaweed farmland \u003Cem\u003Epar excellence.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Seaweed flourishes in temperate water and sunlight, which is why it grows in shallower waters near land,\" Le Corre explained. In the sea, not far from shore, a myriad of white dots bobbing on the water could easily be mistaken for a colony of resting seagulls. The floating grid of white buoys is actually her cultivated sea field.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View of Le Guilvinec from rocks at Pointe de la Men Meur, Brittany","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome 850 seaweed varieties flourish in Breton waters, responsible for the sum total of French seaweed production: 75 goémoniers in Brittany hand-pick 5,000 tonnes of wild seaweed a year and 35 farmers harvest 65,000 tonnes from Breton sea fields. It is no coincidence that one of Europe's largest seaweed fields – 150 hectares of brown laminarians (royal kombu, dulse and wakame) cultivated by organic producer Algolesco next door to Le Guilvinec in Lesconil – grows in the middle of a marine nature reserve protected for its valuable species and habitats by the European Union's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fec.europa.eu\u002Fenvironment\u002Fnature\u002Fnatura2000\u002Findex_en.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENatura 2000\u003C\u002Fa\u003E network. Algolesco recently began exploiting another 207 hectares in sheltered waters offshore from Moëlan-sur-Mer, further east. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Seaweed demand is exploding – soon it will be a luxury product,\" asserted small-scale farmer Le Corre, who yields three tonnes of organic wakame a year from her single hectare at sea. Each October she suspends her culture lines of baby seaweed in the Atlantic and six months later, after several nail-bitingly destructive winter storms, she sets sail in Mon Copain to heave out lines heavy with silky, nutrient-laden wakame.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Seaweed demand is exploding – soon it will be a luxury product","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor centuries Bretons have boiled frizzy-red pioka (Irish moss) in milk to make a natural gelling agent used in \u003Cem\u003Efar Breton\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a type of clafoutis or sweet batter flan). Long before the invention of aluminium foil, cooks in Brittany wrapped fish in leaves of nori or dulse to keep it moist while cooking. On Breton islands where trees are few, seaweed substituted firewood as fuel until well after World War One. On Île de Molène, islanders traditionally smoked rolls of hand-cut pork over a seaweed fire for five consecutive days to create aromatic sausages called \u003Cem\u003Esaucisses de Molène, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eand they remain an artisanal speciality.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor centuries seaweed was considered a poor man's food – it was originally fed to cattle after all – and was only really embraced by vegetarians in the late 20th Century. Today a new generation of contemporary chefs in Brittany, like David Royer at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.castelach.fr\u002F\"\u003ECastel Ac'h\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Plougeurneau) and Mickaël Renard at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hoteldelamer.bzh\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHôtel de la Mer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Brignonan), are embracing Brittany's natural bounty of sea veg with newfound gusto.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I take the best of what I have around me – which is what grows in my garden and the sea, my 'other' garden right in front of me. It is now fashionable to eat seaweed, but it has always been eaten here in Brittany,\" said Royer. \"In a restaurant you have to be careful how you present it on the plate. If it looks like seaweed, it doesn't work – but incorporate small pieces throughout and it is sensational.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Scarlette Le Corre foraging for seaweed","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGastronomic meals at Castel Ac'h open with an apricot, cheese and dulse \u003Cem\u003Esablé\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (shortbread) and a basket of \u003Cem\u003Epain aux algues\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (seaweed bread) accompanied by salted Breton butter spiked with nori flecks. Every course incorporates seaweed, including dessert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs canny in the kitchen as at sea, Le Corre cooks up a seaweed storm at her wildly popular \u003Cem\u003Edégustation\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (tasting) and cooking \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alguerie.com\u002Fatelier%20de%20decouvertes%20des%20algues\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworkshops\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where she demonstrates how ancient conservation methods (such as salting and pickling) and family recipes marry with local algae to sensational effect: syrupy wakame jam paired with warm goats' cheese on toast; mackerel and wakame \u003Cem\u003Erillettes;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a sweet spoon of velvety salted butter caramel peppered with wakame flakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach dish combining her dried or fresh salted seaweeds, mustards, condiments and chutneys is sublime. Each is also turbo-powered when you consider that sea lettuce, for example, contains eight times more vitamin C than an orange and 10 times more calcium than milk. Chemical- and preservative-free, the only source of nutrients in algo-cuisine is the natural ebb and flow of the tide and the rise and fall of the sun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A fistful of seaweed is food for a month. Everything traditionally done with fruit and vegetables, I do with seaweed,\" said Le Corre with pride. \"It is my heritage – a \u003Cem\u003Esavoir faire\u003C\u002Fem\u003E born from the beaches I grew up on, the rocks I mucked around on, the endless days I spent with my father at sea 60 years ago.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-30T10:45:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The French take on a trendy 'superfood'","headlineShort":"The French take on a trendy 'superfood'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Clumps of seaweed on low-tide beach in Finistere","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.2520","longitude":"3.9301","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Clumps of seaweed on low-tide beach in Finistere","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Fisherwoman Scarlette Le Corre has spent a lifetime quietly revolutionising fishing in France and the greater story of seaweed cultivation, culture and cuisine in Brittany.","summaryShort":"Some 850 seaweed varieties flourish in Breton waters","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-29T22:05:44.413419Z","entity":"article","guid":"07c60a33-cf79-4f1e-bfa3-d808cca1ffea","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:33:19.890309Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396253},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside","_id":"62b4204f1f4b7b1efb4dc72e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Femily-monaco"],"bodyIntro":"Many top culinary masters are abandoning the French capital in favour of greener pastures, where they can have a hand not just in choosing, but in growing their ingredients.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt began before the pandemic: an exodus of chefs abandoning Paris for the French countryside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJames Henry's 2017 departure was perhaps the most publicised. The Australian chef, who first skyrocketed to fame at small-plates trendsetters \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.restaurant-aupassage.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAu Passage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the former Bones, left the Parisian cityscape to work alongside chef Shaun Kelly (ex-Au Passage) on a passion project: opening a restaurant and inn in the small town of Saint-Vrain 30km south of Paris. The result – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fle_doyennerestaurant_\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Doyenné\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – is set to debut later this year. And, as the pair plant their orchard and renovate the 19th-Century greenhouse and stables, they've also been supplying some of Paris' top restaurants with produce from their three-acre vegetable garden. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Henry and Kelly are far from the only chefs to step out of Paris in recent years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think it started before Covid, but it was discreet,\" said Daniela Lavadenz, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lesaintsebastien.paris\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Saint-Sébastien\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant in Paris' trendy 11th arrondissement. \"There was already an explosion of people buying country homes before Covid. But everything was multiplied with the pandemic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo wit: chef Sven Chartier of the former Michelin-starred Saturne left the capital in late 2020 for the countryside of the Perche region, 150km west of Paris; his new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thefoodsection.com\u002Ffoodsection\u002F2010\u002F09\u002Fn%C3%A9o-bistrot.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enéo-bistrot\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oiseau-oiseau.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOiseau Oiseau\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, opened in October 2021 boasting a menu brimming with local produce. In 2018, former jewellery shop owner Mickaëlle Chabat and her husband, chef Louis-Philippe Riel (ex-Le 6 Paul Bert), ventured even further afield to the Italian border for a new home by the slopes. They found the house that would become their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.laubergedelaroche.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAuberge de la Roche\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the town of Valdeblore (whose Alpine ski resort La Colmiane boasts the longest zip line in France) and launched the project in collaboration with chef Alexis Bijaoui, formerly of Paris' \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.garance-saintdominique.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGarance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr0z0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We fell in love with the view,\" said Chabat. \"It's almost like being in the middle of nowhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe preponderance of chefs abandoning the capital in favour of greener pastures is, in part, a reflection of an ever-growing interest in locavorism. Despite a few anomalies – such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.atlasobscura.com\u002Farticles\u002Fparis-catacomb-mushrooms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emushrooms grown in the Catacombs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191204-paris-hidden-vineyards#:~:text=While%20it%20may%20seem%20like,the%20city's%20most%20celebrated%20parks.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewine produced in a handful of public parks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – Paris has long been known for transforming ingredients, rather than producing them. But in recent decades, many Parisian chefs had been paying considerably less attention to where those ingredients were coming from.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFarmers' markets selling local produce are thin on the ground in Paris, with most of the city's \u003Cem\u003Emarchés \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eactually peddling produce from Spain, Italy and Portugal by way of wholesalers. The central Les Halles market, a mainstay of Paris since the Middle Ages, relocated to the outlying city of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rungisinternational.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERungis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (near Orly Airport) in 1969 and today occupies 4.2 sq km and boasts the largest turnover of any wholesale market around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFred Pouillot, the owner of Parisian cooking school \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lefoodist.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Foodist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, draws attention to this discrepancy on tours of local markets with his American clients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr6xb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I ask them, only looking at the produce, 'what is the difference between what you see here and an open-air market back home?',\" he said. \"And then I lead them on until the 'clue' is given – bananas! We don't grow bananas around Paris! Or mangoes, or melons or anything you see here for that matter. In America, an open-air market is a normally a farmers' market. This is not a farmers' market – this is a traders' market.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile this disconnect may seem surprising, especially given France's celebrated link to its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2013\u002F09\u002F01\u002Fsunday-review\u002Fvive-le-terroir.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eterroir\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to French culinary journalist Emmanuel Rubin, it's merely the final step in a long and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tandfonline.com\u002Fdoi\u002Ffull\u002F10.1080\u002F09639489.2019.1676218\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecomplex devolution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The rapid economic development France underwent in the 1950s and '60s – a period known as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheculturetrip.com\u002Feurope\u002Ffrance\u002Farticles\u002Fwhy-frances-trente-glorieuses-are-so-important-to-the-nation-today\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrente Glorieuses\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – had, Rubin asserts, a lasting effect on the country's cities, notably with regards to the arrival of supermarkets on the outskirts of town centres that negatively impacted the availability of small shops within. This, Rubin said, \"modified French and urban dining habits in a lasting way\", radiating from the home into the restaurant industry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The imposing gastronomic pedigree of Paris' robust technical arsenal made it easy for Parisian restaurants to coast on their reputations alone","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps even more essential to Paris' disconnect with the local landscape is its style of cooking. The imposing gastronomic pedigree of Paris' robust technical arsenal (as opposed to the ingredient-driven mindset that governs, for instance, Italian cuisine) made it easy for Parisian restaurants to coast on their reputations alone. Additionally, restaurants serving mass-produced meals in France became so prevalent that in 2014, the government approved a label to affirm that the dishes being served \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Farticle\u002Fus-france-homemade\u002Ffrance-forces-labels-on-restaurants-to-save-homemade-cuisine-idUSKBN0FK1WX20140715\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewere actually being made in-house\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr19b"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOf late, however, as part of a growing resistance against industrialised food, many of Paris' top chefs have started reducing their reliance on Rungis – where, Lavadenz asserts, vegetables are \"calibrated and covered in plastic or cardboard\" – in favour of partnerships with sustainable cooperatives and networks like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.terroirs-avenir.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETerroirs d'Avenir\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.agrofile.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAgrof'ile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftomsaveurs.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETom Saveurs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But for some chefs, venturing into the countryside themselves is a logical next step – something, Lavadenz posits, \"makes the job more interesting\" for these culinary professionals, who now have a hand, not just in choosing, but in growing their ingredients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELoïc Martin and Édouard Bergeon have been growing much of their own produce for their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.restaurantmartinparis.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMartin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E wine bar and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frobert-restaurant.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERobert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant – both in Paris' 11th arrondissement – for seven years, ever since Martin bought land on the banks of the Loire River, almost on a whim. The plot of countryside has since become the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Flejardinsurloire\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJardin-sur-Loire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"At the beginning, it was just to feed the restaurants in Paris,\" said Martin. But in 2021, the pair expanded their portfolio to include \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FLesterrassesdelile\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELes Terrasses de l'Ile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a nearby \u003Cem\u003Eguinguette\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (country restaurant), complete with a tiny house perfect for hosting visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr0cm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBertrand Grébaut houses Parisians in slightly more luxe fashion at his \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.duneile.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ED'Une Ile\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a B&B and \u003Cem\u003Etable d'hôte\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fixed menu restaurant) in the same Perche region that also tempted Chartier from the capital. The Michelin-starred chef of the infamously impossible-to-book \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.septime-charonne.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESeptime\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Paris' 11th arrondissement said he wasn't necessarily looking to create a new venture outside Paris when, in 2017, he and his business partner, Théo Pourriat, started to think about new projects to add to their portfolio. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was pretty vast, at that point,\" he recalled of the breadth of ideas he and Pourriat were considering. \"But at the end of the day, we were attracted by the idea of finding a pretext to be closer to nature. To put our feet somewhere green.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce he'd visited the B&B, the choice was made in an instant. \"It's hard to not fall in love at first sight when you get to D'Une Ile,\" said Grébaut.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe irresistibly charming estate is comprised of a small grouping of 17th-Century stone buildings in the heart of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.normandie-tourisme.fr\u002Fdiscover\u002Fheritage-and-architecture\u002Fregional-nature-reserves\u002Fthe-perche-regional-nature-reserve\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Perche Regional Nature Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Light stone and dark wood create a peaceful, rural and rustic environment with food to match.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr0fc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We were getting emotional over radishes and butter,\" recalled Grébaut, \"because we were growing our own radishes, because we were making butter in-house, and because when we serve the radish, it was harvested two hours ago and it's never seen the fridge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETapping into local terroir is at the heart of the project at Auberge de la Roche, as well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The idea was to create a space that was really rooted in its environment,\" said Chabat of her mountain oasis, whose kitchen relies exclusively on products from within a 50km radius, meaning that the menu is often left to the whims of Mother Nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We were getting emotional over radishes and butter","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When there's a storm, we've got no fish,\" she said, implying how they often need to make adjustments on the fly. However, the restaurant's team has built a network of local producers, such as Sandrine Giraud, who cultivates her own heirloom grains; and Lawry Calendra, who produces pork that Chabat describes as \"totally insane\". And with chefs Riel and Bijaoui in the kitchen, Auberge de la Roche is on par with any fine dining restaurant you'd find in the French capital – with a price tag to match. A room at Auberge de la Roche clocks in at €350, and the seven-course prix fixe menu costs €90.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut even at D'Une Ile, where rooms are priced at €85 a night and dinner costs €39 for a rustic three-course menu, \"locals think we're really full of it, with a radish-and-butter dish at €5.50,\" Grébaut said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr0ql"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis reflects an innate friction that often surfaces when Parisians abscond to the countryside, with their affinity for curated rusticity. Locals who arrive at D'Une Ile, according to Grébaut, baulk not just at the \"Parisian\" prices but at the \"mismatched, flea market chairs\" and simplicity of the food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They were kind of disappointed that this was the restaurant that the Michelin-starred Parisian chef who just showed up in the Perche decided to open,\" he said, noting nevertheless that the simple approach to home-grown, quality ingredients, is \"our idea of luxury\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMartin noticed a similar disconnect upon opening Les Terrasses de l'Ile last year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We closed again quite quickly,\" he said, explaining that in addition to challenges linked to the re-emergence from lockdown, he found that many locals were suspicious of his arrival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is a France that is feeling a bit forgotten,\" he said, noting that a group of Parisians taking over the restaurant that had, for 25 years, served a buffet beloved by regulars meant that \"there were loads of things locals didn't like\" about the new approach, which was perhaps better suited to Paris than to the French provinces\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr1lf"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It was awful for the team,\" Martin said, \"so it was better to shut down.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt probably doesn't help that with these new arrivals comes an uptick in housing prices. At just more than an hour from the French capital, the bucolic Perche in particular is now home to a host of ex- or part-time Parisians. Local cocktail expert Forest Collins can attest to the expensive result of having such high-profile neighbours, noting that in her hamlet, somewhere between a quarter and a third of houses have become weekend homes for city-dwellers and that local \u003Cem\u003Ebrocantes \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(flea markets) have considerably hiked their prices as a result.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMartin has since switched gears at Les Terrasses de l'Ile, which reopened this spring with a simplified menu that better caters to the local population. Egg mayonnaise, house-made terrine, mussels and French fries, or sausage with mashed potatoes are all made with 90% local ingredients and served at prices in-line with other offerings in the area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We took a step back,\" he said. \"It was the right idea. The right choice.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEdward Delling-Williams, owner of Paris' \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.legrandbainparis.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Grand Bain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, made a similar choice with his new venture in Normandy. Like many others, Delling-Williams had been itching to leave the city before finally taking the plunge during the pandemic, happening upon Heugueville and falling immediately in love with the north-western coastal village.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was springtime, and it was unbelievable,\" he said. \"There was wild garlic everywhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr1r0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe opened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fthe_presbytere\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Presbytère\u003C\u002Fa\u003E this spring in a former vicarage just steps from the beach. Bit by bit, it will be fuelled by more produce grown on his land, which the previous owner spent 12 years renovating \"almost exactly how we would have done it\", Delling-Williams said. \"He's planted 6,000 trees. He's made safe spaces for animals. There's solar power. It's really unbelievable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor the British chef, who also implemented a local mindset at Le Grand Bain, the move was a logical next step, a break from the monotony that had come to small plate-focused, natural wine-driven, contemporary Parisian restaurants – including his own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Everything is going to be local, so why not cater to the local population?","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"That style of food is now just everywhere,\" he said. \"If I brought you four dishes from four different restaurants, Le Grand Bain included, you wouldn't be able to pick which restaurant made which dish. And that seems a bit boring, now.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt The Presbytère, Delling-Williams instead serves a combination of accessible French bistro fare (like house-made pâté or skate wing in butter sauce) as well as the food typical of the English pub he was raised in, including a Sunday roast. And the prices match the locale: around €18 euros for lunch, €30 for dinner. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Everything is going to be local,\" he said, pointing to the sea purslane and sea aster growing wild around the restaurant. \"So why not cater to the local population?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdr1wd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"If the Parisians want to come,\" he added, \"they can come.\" But he's doing nothing to overtly attract them. His focus is less on becoming an innkeeper than a brewer, a baker, and, above all, a producer of his own ingredients.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm pretty sure that if you talk to any chef, they're going to come up with the same sort of reason: having control over the produce,\" he said of his motivations. But then he prevaricated: \"Maybe I'm just becoming an old man and I want to be in the countryside. I think that's probably it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAge aside (the father of three is just 36 years old), others may soon follow suit. Martin, notably, thinks that he, too, will eventually make his part-time move to the Loire more permanent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think that, in time, we might be happier raising animals and making our products there,\" he mused, \"rather than being in Paris five days a week.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe French capital's love of local is certainly on the rise, with restaurateurs realising that tapping into the richness of the surrounding countryside has become an expectation rather than an exception for many Parisian diners. But watching Delling-Williams traipse across his land with young sons in tow, inviting them to smell fresh spring garlic and pull radishes from the soil, it's perhaps no wonder that he's not the only chef with greener pastures on the mind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside-24"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-15T13:25:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The exodus of Paris' chefs to the countryside","headlineShort":"Why top chefs are leaving Paris","image":["p0cdr07y"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.3585593","longitude":"0.6257567","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cdr07y"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210722-is-french-cuisine-forever-changed","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210829-the-french-take-on-a-trendy-superfood"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Many top culinary masters are abandoning the French capital in favour of greener pastures, where they can have a hand not just in choosing, but in growing their ingredients.","summaryShort":"\"It started before Covid, but it was discreet\"","tag":["tag\u002Frestaurant","tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-14T21:31:35.607105Z","entity":"article","guid":"103d52fc-de3d-4a88-9edb-9a62fca14e6c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-15T14:21:36.27426Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ffrance","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_france_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast","_id":"62b420391f4b7b32e84c10f9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Tens of thousands of wooden stakes poking up from British Columbia's shoreline have smashed a long-held stereotype of Canada's First Nation people.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the lowest tides, Canada's Comox estuary exposes a nearly forgotten story: the nubs of more than 150,000 wooden stakes are spread out across the intertidal zone, forming the remnants of hundreds of ancient fish traps. At peak use, it's believed the industrial-level installation provided food security for an estimated 10,000-12,000 K'ómoks People, the traditional inhabitants of the bountiful, mountain-fringed Comox Valley, located on the east side of Vancouver Island on the edge of the Salish Sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil recently, the sophisticated technology had been overlooked by Western science. Even though the stakes, which are thumb-sized in diameter in the shallows and increase to the size of small tree trunks in deeper water, are visible from busy shore-side roads, no-one thought much about them. For Cory Frank, manager of the K'ómoks Guardian Watchmen, a role that oversees all aspects of environmental stewardship for the coastal Nation, the stakes were just something he grew up with, playing and fishing among them at low tide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen he asked elders about them, they didn't have much information.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrank says this began to change almost two decades ago. In 2002, Nancy Greene, then an undergraduate anthropology student, began researching the stakes for her senior thesis. Greene (now a research archaeologist) wanted to know what they were for. So, working with a team of volunteers, she began heading out at low tide and spent months recording the locations of 13,602 exposed tips of Douglas fir and western red cedar stakes. At the same time, she began asking the K'ómoks elders what she was looking at.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen she plotted them out, taking into account the oral history, the results were astounding. The stakes formed a constellation outlining one of the most extensive and sophisticated Indigenous fishing operations ever found.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People monitoring and restoring clam gardens at Russell Island sea garden, BC, Canada","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGreene realised that the 150,000 to 200,000 stakes, representing more than 300 fish traps, filled the shallow wetland. Radiocarbon dating placed the ages to range from 1,300 to just more than 100 years old. For Frank, the most impressive thing about the system is the precision of the designs. \"My ancestors were amazing engineers,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe explained that once he started studying how it all worked, he realised the traps are based on a deep knowledge of fish behaviour and the region's large tidal ranges. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fprojectwatershed.ca\u002F2017\u002F06\u002F14\u002Fancient-fish-traps\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELaid out in two styles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – one heart shaped and one chevron shaped – the traps were lined with removable woven-wood panels that let water through but not the fish. During a rising tide, the fish followed the centreline of the trap, which mimicked the shoreline they'd naturally follow, through an entrance and into the enclosure. When the tide receded; the fish inside the trap were stranded in shallow pools.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDepending on the trap style and season, the stewards of the traps could target either herring or salmon, and manage how many salmon went on to spawn in the local creek systems. By doing this they were able to ensure they only took enough fish to meet community and trade needs. If a fish run looked weak, they could opt not to fish it at all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201123-canadas-forgotten-hawaiian-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada's forgotten Hawaiian islands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210718-scotlands-mysterious-ancient-artificial-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScotland's mysterious loch dwellers  \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnswering the question about how such an elegant and sustainable fishing technology fell into forgotten disuse requires an understanding of some of the darkest parts of Canadian history. In what's now known as British Columbia, dozens of coastal nations thrived for thousands of years. But with the arrival of explorers, traders and settlers, disease and law were used to forcibly separate Indigenous people from their culture and land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When 80 to 90% of the population died, they lost their knowledge holders and the intricate skills and protocols that made these technologies work,\" said Anne Salomon, an applied marine ecologist who has been working alongside coastal Indigenous communities for 15 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Over thousands of years, they'd developed complex food production systems requiring the understanding of ecology, oceanography and geomorphology","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESalomon explained that the Indian Act of 1876 forcibly removed people to reserves and cultural practices were outlawed. People lost physical access to their fish traps and sea gardens. \"Over thousands of years they'd developed complex food production systems requiring the understanding of ecology, oceanography and geomorphology,\" she said. \"When they lost agency over their land, they lost part of their identity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Beaches with lots of shell fragments in Gulf Island National Park Reserve","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the scientific community has been expressing surprise over the extensive nature of traditional coastal mariculture (information that's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cbc.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fcanada\u002Fbritish-columbia\u002Fclam-gardens-call-into-question-hunter-gatherer-past-of-b-c-first-nations-1.3068709\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esmashed the long-held stereotype\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that this was a population of unsophisticated hunter-gathers), Nicole Norris, a knowledge holder for the Hul'q'umi'num Nation and an aquaculture specialist, says the communities themselves had never forgotten. \"These were our grocery stores,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat \u003Cem\u003Ehas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E surprised Norris over the years she's spent exploring the British Columbia coast is how the technologies differ from nation to nation yet are perfectly adapted to each location. While the K'ómoks People used stakes with lattice fences to manage and sustain what was once one of the region's most productive fish runs, in her own territory around the Gulf Islands, the Hul'q'umi'num and W̱SÁNEĆ People stacked rocks \"like Tetris\" to build low walls running parallel to the shore. These walls were designed to trap silt, which changed the slope of the beach to create \"sea gardens\" – large, flat inter-tidal areas that, once cleared of large rocks, were carefully tended to create the ideal habitat for clams, crab, sea cucumbers, rockfish, octopus, whelks and other marine life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the winding inlets and islets of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbcparks.ca\u002Fexplore\u002Fparkpgs\u002Fbroughton\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBroughton Archipelago\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Provincial Park, the technology changes again. Here, the Kwakwaka'wakw People built monumental rock walls, large enough to be seen from space, to create the ideal water depth to encourage clam growth in the shallow bays. Norris says they also built the rock walls into spiral-shaped gardens that created flattened areas that could take advantage of the region’s unique swirling currents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStill further north, in the inner waterways and islands that make up part of Heiltsuk territory, Haíɫzaqv archaeologist Q̓íx̌itasu, also known as Elroy White, says his ancestors built stone-walled sea\u002Fclam gardens (called λápac̓i) and a wide variety of stone fish traps (called Ckvá) that were specifically designed depending on if they were \"on a tidal flat, or in a creek or at the mouth of a river\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They were built so solidly that they wouldn't fall apart by actions of a river, or by the tide or if a canoe hit it,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor his thesis, \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsummit.sfu.ca\u002Fitem\u002F4240\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHeiltsuk Stone Fish Traps\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", White combined archaeology with oral history to gradually unravel the interconnection of rock-walled fish traps and his ancestors' relationship to salmon. He explained that when he began visiting the sites, he saw how the ancient fish trap technology and resource management system didn't just shape the tidal landscape, they shaped his culture and heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Rocky mounds in sea garden in Haida Gwaii, Canada","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I noticed a difference between archaeological and Heiltsuk views of the trap sites,\" he wrote in his thesis. He says traditional scientific research emphasised empirical data such as length, width and height and missed the human element; \"the important relationships my ancestors had with the environment, with salmon and with the fishing technology designed to capture them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe idea that you can't separate Indigenous culture from the lands that shaped them has been slowly taking hold in the scientific community on British Columbia's coast. Norris says that for a long time her people had no access to part of their lands because \"an arbitrary line was drawn making it a national park\". But after several rock walls were spotted at low tide in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pc.gc.ca\u002Fen\u002Fpn-np\u002Fbc\u002Fgulf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGulf Island National Park Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (GINPR) and the decision was made in 2014 to restore a couple of the gardens, Norris says that Parks Canada did something profound: \"They asked for guidance from the First Nations.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In our tradition when you are learning something, you start with the oldest way possible","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe abundance of even long-abandoned gardens found on British Columbia's coast is staggering. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002Fpmc\u002Farticles\u002FPMC3949788\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EResearch shows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the terraced gardens, which Indigenous people have been building for at least 3,500 years, are 150 to 300% more productive than wild beaches in producing littleneck and butter clams, as well as other marine organisms. Erin Slade, a marine ecologist with the GINPR's sea garden restoration project, says this indicates that the techniques once used to steward the gardens have a lot to teach us. While national park scientists, like Slade, could have attempted to reverse-engineer the sea gardens through science alone, they opted to reinstate traditional management and stewardship practices by inviting the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pc.gc.ca\u002Fen\u002Fpn-np\u002Fbc\u002Fgulf\u002Fnature\u002Frestauration-restoration\u002Fjardins-de-la-mer-sea-gardens\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EW̱SÁNEĆ and Hul'q'umi'num Nations back to their lands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In our tradition when you are learning something, you start with the oldest way possible,\" said Norris. So on the first gathering at a clam garden just off of Salt Spring Island, she told everyone to put their science away, asked for guidance from the ancestors and started at the beginning: \"This is how far you put your rake in. This is how wind or salinity or time of year affects the clams.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe moment Indigenous people returned to their sea gardens and fish traps was the moment the technology stopped being about the past and became about the future. In Heiltsuk territory, the fish traps are starting to support local tourism as a stop on \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hauyat.ca\u002Fhome.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evirtual\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.yuwala-marinecharters.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ein person\u003C\u002Fa\u003E cultural tours and there are plans to integrate more traditional fishing methods into community life. Today, Haíɫzaqv visit the sites as a sacred reminder of their grandparents and great grandparents' strong connection to the land and sea and all it has to teach them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the GINPR, Slade says other communities have begun using their research to reestablish their own gardens – an ecological boost not just for the beaches being managed, but for the overall abundance of sea life on the coast that the biomass in the gardens can support. Slade says the expected increase in marine life is important, but the most significant part of restoring sea gardens has been in reinvigorating the teaching relationships between elders and youth. \"This knowledge has been generated over millennia of stewarding these places; it's something that was always meant to be passed on generation through generation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-14T19:35:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"An underwater mystery on Canada's coast","headlineShort":"A mystery off Canada's coast","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View of British Columbia coast, Canada","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"49.6506","longitude":"-125.4494","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"View of British Columbia coast, Canada","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Tens of thousands of wooden stakes poking up from British Columbia's shoreline have smashed a long-held stereotype of Canada's First Nation people.","summaryShort":"Until recently, these ancient sea gardens were overlooked by Western science","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-13T19:36:59.217233Z","entity":"article","guid":"118e63da-216e-4062-a300-ea0170e999db","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T04:06:10.117003Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea","_id":"62b420331f4b7b255f5cf901","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"One of Greece’s top archaeologists, Eleni Korka, recently made the biggest discovery of her 40-year career: the mythical city of Tenea, which was built by Trojan prisoners of war.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a baking hot summer’s day and I was in a car driving through the dramatic hills and lush vegetation of the Peloponnese in Greece. “Look at this whole plain,” my driver, Eleni Korka, said, gesturing out the window. To our left was a huge, flat area, covered in olive trees and scrub bushes. Where it ended, the earth transformed sharply into forested mountains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The city of Tenea covered this whole place,” she told me. “It’s above sea level and there’s a cool breeze, so the summer palace would probably have been built here.” She pointed to a traditional restaurant tucked under a distinctive, almost square-shaped hill. “And this taverna is built under a watermill,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKorka is one of the country’s top archaeologists. A Greek American, she recently made the biggest discovery of her 40-year career. The lost city of Tenea, which is mentioned in multiple Greek myths and historical texts, such as the ancient legend of Oedipus, the mythical king of Thebes who unwittingly killed his father and married his mother, was uncovered by her and her team \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-46205607\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elast October\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, buried under the fields we’re now driving past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190807-a-trattoria-with-a-hidden-ancient-underworld\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA hidden world under an Italian sewer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180409-egypts-exquisite-temples-that-had-to-be-moved\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe temples that had to be moved\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190826-mexicos-mysterious-uncharted-caves\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe key to the origin of the Americas?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to myth, the city was founded by the Trojans sometime around 1100BC and built by prisoners of war. They chose this spot because it was on the road between Corinth and the ancient settlement of Mycenae. Oedipus was said to have been raised here after being sent away as a baby. And it was one of the largest and most prosperous cities in the ancient region of Corinthia in the northern Peloponnese. Until now, however, no-one could work out exactly where it was – or why it disappeared.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe search for Tenea began in 1984. Korka was just five years into her career when she received a call from some local villagers digging a water channel. They had hit an ancient sarcophagus and broken it in half. Korka went to look. “The minute I saw it, I understood it was something unique,” she said. “Sometimes, a find connects with someone. It’s almost spiritual.” The vase-shaped coffin had delicate paintings of lions on the interior and contained a skeleton and offerings to the deceased. “We don’t have another one with drawings like that,” she explained. “We also do not know what ancient paintings looked like… We have no other sample from the Archaic period.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The minute I saw it, I understood it was something unique","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKorka knew Tenea was thought to be in the area, based on ancient historians’ writings, which stated it was somewhere between Corinth and Mycenae. But her young age, inexperience and a lack of further evidence made it impossible for her to get a licence for excavation. “I did not have the confidence or ability to argue why this was so important – it was more intuition-lead,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, illicit antiquities smugglers had known about the site for years, and would often pay local farmers for vases and coins they came across. In 2010, Korka worked alongside the police and informants to intercept the illegal sale of two statues that had been looted nearby. “The statues proved Tenea was a very prominent city with high levels of art,” she said. She finally obtained permission to dig in the area, and in 2013 the excavation began.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe stopped in the nearby village of Chiliomodi for coffee and pastries. The oldest houses here were built here around 200 years ago, and Korka explained that many of them used ancient rocks, likely from Tenea ruins, that were lying around. The local church has a carving of the Ancient Greek god of winemaking and theatre, Dionysus, embedded in the wall. “We think it was part of an ancient theatre, which we’re still searching for,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EChiliomodi is a peaceful, pretty place, largely untouched by tourism. The discovery of the ancient city nearby has brought energy and excitement to the community. In the bakery I noticed bottles of local olive oil named “Tenea”, and there’s a shop of the same name due to open nearby.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKorka and her colleagues Konstantinos Lagos and Antonio Corso, who were driving with us, told me that the project didn’t go exactly to plan to start with. “We had a small team and very little funding,” they said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EThe team is open to guiding visitors and organising educational events while the dig takes place in September and October. You can communicate with them through the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fprofile.php?id=100013633369435&lst=60503340%3A100013633369435%3A1562742905&sk=about\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETenea Prjct\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Facebook account.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"How to visit Tenea","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA geophysical survey of the area was carried out by a third party using technology. But when they started to dig, they found nothing – the shapes seen during the survey had been created by the limestone soil. “So we went back to where the first sarcophagus was found,” she said. “Nearby we found about 40 others… they just kept coming out of the ground one after the other. It was like [the folk tale of] Ali Baba.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENext, they discovered part of an ancient road, which lead the team to a Roman mausoleum from around 100BC in which several generations of a family were buried, plus a cistern that would have been used for rituals and sacrifices: “We knew this was outside of the city, so we decided to dig north instead.” Last October, houses were discovered, and the team realised they had finally found the city itself. “Most of the surface level findings had already been taken by looters,” Lagos said. “But most of the actual city is 2m or 3m below ground.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe stopped at a house in Chiliomodi that is being used as the conservation centre. The team excavates during September and October and spends the rest of year analysing artefacts and studying historical texts. Lagos told me that a huge number of coins have been found on the site, proving Tenea was a very wealthy place. “We’ve found around 200 – you normally only get these kinds of numbers after many years of excavations,” he said. He showed me gold leaf imitation coins that would have been buried with the deceased as a gift for the boatman in the underworld. “Most people [at the time] were buried with pennies,” he said. “But in Tenea they used gold.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOther finds include exquisitely painted vases, engraved lanterns and metal tools used by athletes (to scrape off the oil they cleansed their bodies with), leading the team to believe there is a stadium they have yet to find.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Almost everything in Tenea is unique,” Korka said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis backs up what the team knew about the society from historical texts: “The people here were different – they were Trojans. They had their own identity,” said Korka. As well as being from a different place – the city of Troy was located in what is now Turkey, around 600km – the finds so far show they used different styles of ceramics and had different burial tradition to those living in nearby Corinth and Mycanae, such as placing the coin on the chest rather than in the mouth, as was common elsewhere in Ancient Greece.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut one of the biggest mysteries surrounding Tenea is why it disappeared. Most other major ancient Greek cities, such as Sparta, Athens and Corinth, remain inhabited to this day. It was unusual for a city as large as Tenea – there were probably around 100,000 inhabitants – to be completely abandoned, and no historical texts give a clue as to why.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe headed back to the car and drove up towards the mountains, as Lagos began to explain the team’s theory. “We know Alaric, who was king of the Visigoths, raided Greece in 397AD,” he said. Historians believe he destroyed cities partly to gain wealth, but also to spread Christianity. “We discovered a coin that was issued by Alaric’s people.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, that wasn’t the end of the story for Tenea. “We have found evidence of inhabitation from 200 years later, but it appears Tenea had lost a lot of its wealth,” he continued, explaining that the finds from this period were not as grand or valuable as the earlier ones. “But after that, there’s nothing.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe car climbed up a winding road, giving us spectacular views over the mountains and the plain under which Tenea rests. We stopped at a beautiful, crumbling Byzantine-era monastery. “We know the Slavs invaded this area around that time. We believe the people of Tenea abandoned the city and fled to these hills here,” he said, gesturing around us. The Slavic tribes are known to have raided the area and violently clashed with local communities, so it seems Tenea’s residents judged the hills to be safer. There were many streams around the city, and with no-one to attend to them they covered the city in silt, which eventually turned to earth and covered the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s like an iceberg and we’re just hitting the tip","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETenea’s discovery has answered many mysteries already, such as where the city was located and perhaps why it was abandoned. But for the team, the most exciting thing is what it still may hold. They are expecting to find more houses, temples, a theatre and a marketplace – known in Ancient Greek as an \u003Cem\u003Eagora\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – over the coming years. “It’s like an iceberg and we’re just hitting the tip,” Lagos said. “It’s going to keep giving interesting findings for the next 100 years.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Funearthed\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnearthed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that searches the world for newly discovered archaeological wonders that few people have ever seen.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECORRECTION\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E: A previous version of this story had an incorrect reference to a home destroyed by a cannonball. The error has been removed.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-09-16T22:15:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The discovery of the ancient Greek city of Tenea","headlineShort":"The discovery of a mythical Greek city","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"One of Greece’s top archaeologists, Eleni Korka, recently made the biggest discovery of her 40-year career: the mythical city of Tenea, which was built by Trojan prisoners of war.","summaryShort":"Until now, no-one could work out exactly where it was – or why it disappeared","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:37:34.133214Z","entity":"article","guid":"7209cd18-00fa-439c-a0a4-c32cafbcfdec","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:56:34.476438Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing","_id":"62b420391f4b7b32ea2ca008","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"video","assetVideo":[],"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Inuit throat singing was at risk of extinction after years of erasure by colonists and missionaries, but TikTok star Shina Novalinga is sharing the tradition for a new generation.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09cx9sb.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because of all of our differences. We each have our culture, our identity, our story... To me being different is beautiful and I embrace my Indigenous identity more and more everyday.\"\u003Cem\u003E – Shina Novalinga, throat singer\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShina Novalinga locks eyes with her mother, Caroline, with an intimacy and closeness that feels that much more special during a pandemic. Caroline tilts to her other foot and exhales a guttural sound. Shina replicates and the two go back and forth, producing an infectious beat that's hard to resist bobbing to.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESometimes the pitch is high, sometimes it's low, but it's nearly impossible to decipher who is making which sound (\"If you're confused who's making the noise that's a good thing,\" Shina explained later). Finally, the two burst into laughter and turn to smile for the camera.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen, the likes and comments pour in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EInuit throat singing was at risk of extinction after years of erasure by colonists and missionaries, but Shina, who was born in Nunavik and now lives in Montreal near the banks of the St Lawrence River, is sharing the tradition for a new generation. She's posting videos to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@shinanova?lang=en&is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v2\"\u003ETikTok\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a social media platform particularly known for song and dance, and at last count, she's earned 1.9m followers along with more than 60m likes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut what Shina is doing goes well beyond social media fame, according to Evie Mark, a throat singer and professor at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsivunitsavut.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENunavik Sivunitsavut\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a college programme for Inuit studies. \"She's making a statement to say, 'I'm bringing back what was shamed upon.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I'm bringing back what was shamed upon","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Inuit legend, the first throat singers weren't Inuit or even human, but rather small birds with human-like features called Tunirtuaruit. \"It was hard to see them because they were very shy or afraid of human people and they would live in abandoned snow houses, or homes, and often you would see families of them,\" Mark said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe human version of traditional Inuit throat singing involves two people, usually women, facing each other and using their throat, belly and diaphragm to expel sounds. The two participants go back and forth, matching their partner's rhythm until one goes silent or starts laughing. \"It's a very intimate thing so for sure you're going to be triggered to smile or laugh, especially when you start seeing the person's eyes when you're singing together,\" Mark said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThroat singing exists in other cultures as well, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=qx8hrhBZJ98\"\u003Ek\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=qx8hrhBZJ98\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehöömei\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, found in Mongolia, Siberia and in the Tuva region on the Russia-Mongolia border. Just like Inuit throat singing found in the Canadian Arctic, Greenland and Alaska, khöömei mimics the natural environment, such as animals, mountains and streams. But in khöömei, it is men who usually sing, while it's women in Inuit culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"In our region, the men often had to go hunting either for two hours, two days, two weeks, two months and we are a matriarchal society only because the women were at home preparing clothing, food, garments and so on,\" Mark explained, \"I think that the women had more time on their hands to keep themselves entertained even though they were so busy sewing clothing and so on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMark clarified there are some Inuit men who do a form of throat singing – they imitate animal sounds while they're hunting and shamans chant. But women and children throat sang in the way we hear it today to keep their minds busy and their bodies warm during frigid weather. Throat singing was also a way to cope while social distancing during pandemics like the Spanish flu or measles. \"Entertaining themselves – singing songs, telling stories – was crucial for them to find happiness,\" Mark said. \"This allowed my grandparents to keep warm and to focus on their breathing. Like we try to do today: we try to find some peace or solace during the pandemic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut in the early 20th Century, Christian missionaries in the Arctic shamed Inuit for throat singing. \"What they were told is it's bad, it's Satanic. In fact, it wasn't – it allowed them to flourish for thousands of years and all of a sudden, [they] couldn't,\" Mark said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThroat singing nearly died out, but in Puvirnituq, a village on the coast of Hudson Bay 1,630km north of Montreal, an elder wanted to preserve it. He asked the community's four remaining throat singers to pass their skills onto a new generation of women. One of these women was Caroline Novalinga, who later taught it to her daughter, Shina.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGrowing up in Puvirnituq, Caroline recalls spending her summers camping, chasing geese in springtime and skating or watching the ice fishers in winter. She also loved to sew and throat sing. \"We used to have so much to do when we were growing up,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECaroline moved to Montreal for college when Shina was four and shared her Inuit traditions with her daughter, including speaking Inuktitut at home. But it wasn't until Shina was 17 that she finally decided to teach her to throat sing. \"I had tears when she sang,\" Caroline said. \"I was so happy and emotional and proud, all those emotions.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlong with preserving Inuit culture, throat singing has brought Caroline and Shina even closer. \"We have this connection that is kind of unexplainable between mother and daughter and it gives me this zone of comfort when I throat sing with her,\" Shina said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut while Shina – who is half-Inuk and half-Quebecoise – has always been close with her mother, she felt out of place as a teenager in Montreal. \"I was always proud of my heritage, but I didn't show it as much. I was kind of more scared to show it,\" she said. \"I would dye my hair lighter... I feel like I had an identity crisis because I didn't really know which group I fit in.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210317-the-restaurateur-who-overcame-canadas-sixties-scoop\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe restaurateur who overcame Canada's Sixties Scoop\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200525-why-first-nations-communities-are-uninviting-visitors\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy First Nations communities are uninviting visitors\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe chef preserving Canada's Indigenous identity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile studying at John Abbott College, Shina had a First Peoples' Voices teacher that encouraged her to learn more about her culture and traditions beyond what Caroline had taught her. \"That's when I realised how important it is and how much we've gone through, just for me to not embrace my identity? So that's when things started changing in my head.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn class, Shina learned about the injustices done to her people such as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Famericas\u002F7438079.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eresidential schools\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-us-canada-55269251\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESixties Scoop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where children were placed in non-Indigenous homes as a method of assimilation. For one class presentation, Shina throat sang. \"I was still just learning. It was definitely this year and last year that everything changed,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn March 2020, when the first wave of the pandemic hit Montreal, Shina started sharing throat singing videos on TikTok. The videos also showcased the gorgeous \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@shinanova\u002Fvideo\u002F6908890627497266433?lang=en&is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehandmade parkas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E sewn and designed by her mother along with facts about Indigenous history. \"For me it's so normal, but I realised how unique it is for everyone to hear that, and even just different aspects of our culture, our food, our clothing,\" Shina said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We have all these platforms to finally put our foot down and speak up about our beautiful culture and embrace it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlmost instantly, her videos started to rack up hundreds of thousands, even millions of views.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShina said she was inspired by the Black Lives Matter movement to share her story as well as by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@shinanova\u002Fvideo\u002F6922195636217449734?lang=en&is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eher grandmother\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a poet, who didn't have the technology to reach as many people with her art. \"It's important to speak about the culture because my grandparents, older generations didn't have the opportunity to speak up,\" Shina said. \"And now we have social media, we have all these platforms to finally put our foot down and speak up about our beautiful culture and embrace it.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd the likes kept on rolling in. \"Seeing so much positive feedback and having all this recognition, it just pushed us to keep going,\" she added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Shina's trepidations as a teenager about showing her Inuk side were realised when she started to receive negative comments on social media, especially about the clothes she was wearing. \"People love what my mom makes, but as soon as they find out that it's real fox fur some are like, ‘Oh, you're cruel. Why would you do this? Don't use real animal.'\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShina tried to explain that traditional Inuit hunting has been sustainable for thousands of years, but many wouldn't listen. \"I used to be super defensive, and I would talk back to try to educate and explain, but I realised that I was only attracting those people,\" she said. \"It's not wrong, but at the same time I wasn't happy with myself, so I changed my content to be more positive and to ignore comments like that and to just keep showing the beauty of our culture instead.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStill, Shina couldn't resist fighting back. In a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@shinanova\u002Fvideo\u002F6925982275255520518?lang=en&is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecent post\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, she's seen crying over a video of two people mocking throat singing. \"People misunderstand our way of life, our Inuit culture... but I go on social media to prove them wrong and to educate that we're all on the same page,\" she said. \"I'm half Inuk and I'm half Quebecoise, I know both sides and I want to be the bridge to have this reconciliation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2014, throat singing was given \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fglobalnews.ca\u002Fnews\u002F1116482\u002Fthroat-singing-gets-cultural-heritage-status-in-quebec\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecultural heritage status\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Quebec – the first designation of its kind for something intangible (the distinction had previously been reserved for artefacts, architecture and photography). Throat singing has also been popularised in recent years thanks to artists like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp02rzplg\u002Fplayer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETanya Tagaq\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=4ifsWeJViSQ&feature=emb_logo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EQuantum Tangle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=D3om9g7arPQ&feature=emb_logo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPiqsiq\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=iL1eyt8_VkM\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERiit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShina and Caroline (who has her own popular \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@kayuulanova?lang=en&is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETikTok account\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) have recorded a throat singing album of their own and plan to release it later this year. \"We want to show people that throat singing exists and we want to make sure that it stays for as long as we can,\" Shina said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs for social media and the negative comments it attracts, Shina plans to continue sharing positive content. She urges others – especially young Indigenous women like herself – to share their voices, too. \"A lot of indigenous youth are afraid just like I was and it's important to embrace who you are, your identity and not be ashamed of your culture,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing-19"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-04-15T11:56:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A revival of Indigenous throat singing","headlineShort":"Canada's rising Inuit TikTok star","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"60.0448585","longitude":"-77.4301009","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Inuit throat singing was at risk of extinction after years of erasure by colonists and missionaries, but TikTok star Shina Novalinga is sharing the tradition for a new generation.","summaryShort":"\"I'm bringing back what was shamed upon\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:04:39.7268Z","entity":"article","guid":"20134621-e73a-4761-8559-2edbc517e0c1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-25T19:26:15.188121Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b292215186e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fbrendan-sainsbury"],"bodyIntro":"In 1970, a violent storm uncovered a Makah village that was buried by a mudslide more than 300 years earlier. A newly re-opened museum tells the fascinating story of the ancient site.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EComing to the end of a short, winding trail, I found myself standing in the extreme north-west corner of the contiguous US, a wild, forested realm where white-capped waves slam against the isolated Washington coast with a savage ferocity. Buttressed by vertiginous cliffs battling with the corrosive power of the Pacific, Cape Flattery has an elemental, edge-of-continent feel. No town adorns this stormy promontory. The nearest settlement, Neah Bay, sits eight miles away by road, a diminutive coast-hugging community that is home to the Makah, an indigenous tribe who have fished and thrived in this region for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Makah are represented by the motif of a thunderbird perched atop a whale, and their story is closely linked to the sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Makah is the only tribe with explicit treaty rights to whale hunting in the US,\" explained Rebekah Monette, a tribal member and historic preservation programme manager. \"Our expertise in whaling distinguished us from other tribes. It was very important culturally. In the stratification of Makah society, whaling was at the top of the hierarchy. Hunting had the capacity to supply food for a vast number of people and raw material for tools.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter reading recent news stories about the Makah's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fisheries.noaa.gov\u002Fwest-coast\u002Fmarine-mammal-protection\u002Fmakah-tribal-whale-hunt\"\u003Ewhaling rights\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsanctuaries.noaa.gov\u002Fnews\u002Ffeb22\u002Fmakah-ocean-out-of-balance.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eimpact of climate change\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on their traditional waters, I had come to their 27,000-acre reservation on Washington's Olympic Peninsula to learn more, by visiting a unique \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmakahmuseum.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etribal museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that has just reopened after a two-year hiatus due to Covid-19.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cbr8dq"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.academia.edu\u002F43510196\u002FMakahs_Quileutes_and_the_Precontact_History_of_the_Northwestern_Olympic_Peninsula_Washington\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EDue to a trick of fate, Makah history is exceptionally well-documented. In contrast to other North American civilisations, a snapshot of their past was captured and preserved by a single cataclysmic episode. In 1970, a brutal Pacific storm uncovered part of an abandoned coastal Makah village called Ozette located 15 miles south of Cape Flattery. Part of the village had been buried by a mudslide that was possibly triggered by a dramatic seismic event around 1700, almost a century before the first European contact. Indeed, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.academia.edu\u002F43510196\u002FMakahs_Quileutes_and_the_Precontact_History_of_the_Northwestern_Olympic_Peninsula_Washington\"\u003Erecent research\u003C\u002Fa\u003E argues that ancestors of the Makah – or related Wakashan speaking people – have been present in the area for at least 4,000 years, which, if proven, would change our understanding of prehistory in the Olympic Peninsula and Vancouver Island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMiraculously, the mud had protected embedded organic matter by sealing it off from the air. As a result, thousands of well-preserved artefacts that would normally have rotted – from intact woven cedar baskets to dog-hair blankets and wooden storage boxes – were able to be painstakingly unearthed during a pioneering archaeological dig.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDue to the suddenness of the event and the exceptional levels of preservation, scientists hailed the find a \"Western Pompeii\" and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.washingtonpost.com\u002Farchive\u002Flifestyle\u002F1979\u002F06\u002F24\u002Fcivilization-lostand-found\u002Fe3e94085-fcb9-4ea4-81ce-862a5b5a3379\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWashington Post\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called it \"the most comprehensive collection of artefacts of a pre-European-contact Indian culture ever discovered in the United States\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnxious the material might be engulfed by the sea and lost, the tribe called in Richard Daugherty, an influential archaeologist at Washington State University who'd been involved in fieldwork in the area since the 1940s. Having good connections with Congress, Daugherty helped secure federal funding for an exhaustive excavation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cbr8dn"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Dr Daugherty was instrumental in the excavation work,\" recounted Monette. \"He was very progressive and interested in working alongside the tribe in the process. He worked to gain financing for 11 years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Ozette dig lasted from 1970 until 1981 and ultimately unearthed around 55,000 artefacts from six beachside cedar houses covered by the slide. The Makah, like many indigenous groups, have a strong oral tradition, with much of their history passed down through storytelling, song and dance. The evidence unearthed at Ozette affirmed these stories and added important details.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was a spectacular place to excavate; the preservation and richness was extraordinary,\" recalled archaeologist Gary Wessen, a former field director at the site who later wrote a PhD dissertation on the topic. \"Ozette is what we call a primary deposition. We have all these materials preserved in the places where they were actually used. It helps tell us more about the social and spatial relationship of the people who lived in the houses.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was a spectacular place to excavate; the preservation and richness was extraordinary","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmakahmuseum.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhile much of the material dated from around 1700, some of it was significantly older. Indeed, archaeologists ultimately determined that multiple mudslides had hit Ozette over a number of centuries. Beneath one of the houses, another layer of well-preserved material dated back 800 years. The oldest finds so far have been radiocarbon-dated to 2,000 years and there are middens in the area that are at least 4,000 years old, according to Wessen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom the outset, the Ozette dig was different to other excavations. Tribal members worked alongside university students at the site, and, early on, it was decided that the unearthed material would stay on the reservation rather than be spirited off to distant universities or other non-indigenous institutions. In 1979, the tribe opened the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmakahmuseum.com\u002F\"\u003EMakah Cultural and Research Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Neah Bay with a museum to house a \"greatest hits\" of the collection. The 500 pieces currently on display represent less than 1% of the overall find.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The tribe was very assertive of their ownership and control of the collection,\" said Monette. \"A lab was developed in Neah Bay. For the museum, we hired Jean Andre, the same exhibit designer as the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Froyalbcmuseum.bc.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoyal BC Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Victoria. We decided to tell our story seasonally with sections on spring, summer, fall and winter.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cbr8d2"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe result, which has only recently reopened, is a beautifully curated space. Outside on a verdant lawn, I was welcomed by a reconstruction of a traditional wooden Makah house and two large statues wearing distinctive cedar-bark rain hats. Inside, where I met Monette, the assembled exhibits left no doubt about the tribe's maritime prowess. I saw 13ft whaling harpoons, wooden paddles and seal skin buoys. A large central space was taken up with two red cedar canoes guarded by a giant whale skeleton. We proceeded through a mock-up of a dark wooden Makah house with an opening that looked out over a hyper-realistic diorama of the seashore at Ozette.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was particularly enamoured by the artistry of many of the carved wooden objects. There was a dorsal fin of a whale studded with hundreds of sea otter teeth, and an unusual figurine of a woman lying prostrate in the act of childbirth. These artefacts, along with ornate seal clubs and delicate combs, testify to a remarkable level of craftsmanship.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Makah were skilled woodworkers,\" said Wessen. \"They exhibited levels of sophistication regarding technology that weren't appreciated before.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are several elements about the Ozette project that make it one of the most important archaeological finds in North America to date. The sheer size of the collection coupled with the scale of the effort to recoup it was unprecedented. Then, there's the calibre of the preservation, which, at times, was almost surreal. Wessen recalled excavators using fire hoses to blast the clay off vegetation entrenched in the mudslide. In the process, they exposed green leafy alder branches to sunlight for the first time in more than 300 years. As the oxygen hit, the leaves would quickly turn black, but for 15 to 20 seconds, workers were treated to a glimpse of a bright green leaf from 1700.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When archaeologists and elders work together, we get a more complete understanding of the past","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETribal elders were integral in helping archaeologists understand the meaning of many of the artefacts and how they were used. In the 1970s, there were still a dozen or so native speakers alive in Neah Bay. The knowledge of these elders perfectly complemented the scientific expertise of the archaeologists. Wessen remembers this sharing of ideas as a powerful experience. \"When archaeologists and elders work together, we get a more complete understanding of the past,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cbr8ct"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FCalvins-Crab-House-351624275342062\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ENeah Bay today has a population of just more than 1,000 people and an economy based mainly on fishing. After returning to the town from my blustery walk out to Cape Flattery, I sought shelter in a small waterfront joint called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FCalvins-Crab-House-351624275342062\u002F\"\u003ECalvin's Crab House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and watched as the weather swung capriciously between sun and rain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust outside, a small monument marked the site of Fort Núñez Gaona, a colonial outpost established by a Spanish lieutenant called Salvador Fidalgo in 1792 as the first non-native settlement in the north-western US. Although the Spanish only stayed for four months, their presence marked an important historical watershed, the moment in which two cultures intersected and learned to live alongside each other in a new and different world. Uniquely, Ozette offers us a time capsule of Native life before the changes prompted by European contact.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the weather closing in, I decided against visiting the archaeological site, which is isolated and difficult to reach without a car. Unlike Pompeii, there are no ruins to walk around – although the surrounding beaches are spectacular – as the site was backfilled in 1981. All that remains today is an abandoned ranger station, a small memorial shed and some indigenous petroglyphs carved on rocks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs to whether there's anything else down there, Wessen speculated there might be, but admitted that there's still more research to be done on the existing artefacts first: \"The Ozette collection in its entirety has not come anywhere close to having its full research potential realised,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-06T10:16:57Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Ozette: The US' lost 2,000-year-old village","headlineShort":"North America's 'Western Pompeii'","image":["p0cbr8ds"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.3683","longitude":"-124.5989","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cbr8ds"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211013-an-underwater-mystery-on-canadas-coast","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190915-the-discovery-of-the-ancient-greek-city-of-tenea","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210414-a-revival-of-indigenous-throat-singing"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In 1970, a violent storm uncovered a Makah village that was buried by a mudslide more than 300 years earlier. A newly re-opened museum tells the fascinating story of the ancient site.","summaryShort":"It's one of the most important archaeological finds in North America to date","tag":["tag\u002Farchaeology"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-05T22:17:23.301717Z","entity":"article","guid":"e616becc-5dab-4076-8d99-d4019d2287b6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-05T22:17:23.301717Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fwashington","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_washington_north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396253},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b2e36748994","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Maamoul is made at the end of both Lent and Ramadan, leading up to Easter and Eid al Fitr. But this year, the biscuit is extra sweet as both religions enjoy it at the same time.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis spring, along the ancient streets of the holy cities of Jerusalem and Bethlehem, a sweet smell wafts through the air. Inside, people's homes are hives of activity as extended family members and neighbours come together to make a biscuit-like treat that's very special to both Muslims and Christians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You can't have Easter without \u003Cem\u003Emaamoul\u003C\u002Fem\u003E because it brings the happiness,\" said Rawan Ghattas, a Christian from Bethlehem, who works with famed local chef \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fadikattan.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFadi Kattan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike Ghattas, Rawan Bazbazat, a Muslim art teacher and jewellery maker from Jerusalem, has been baking the sweet since she was a child with her mother. \"On Eid al Fitr, we always have to make maamoul. We can't celebrate this holiday without it,\" Bazbazat said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMaamoul is made from a dough of semolina and ghee (though butter can be used as a substitute) and flavoured with \u003Cem\u003Emahlab\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (crushed cherry seeds, which are found inside the pits) and mastic (also known as Arabic Gum), which is the resin from the acacia tree. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the delicate shortcrust-style sweet melts in your mouth, its design adds even more decadence. Before baking, the dough is either stuffed with pistachios drizzled with rosewater, walnuts mixed with sugar and cinnamon, or dates that have been ground to a paste with a little oil or butter. As Anissa Helou, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcookswithoutborders.com\u002Fnew-story\u002F2020\u002F4\u002F27\u002Fanissa-helous-feast-food-of-the-islamic-world-delivers-delicious-inspiration-during-ramadan-and-beyond\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFeast Food of the Islamic World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E described it to me, \"The date maamoul is like having a cream-filled biscuit, but less fluffy.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach of the three flavours is then placed into its own specific wooden mould called a \u003Cem\u003Eqalab\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or formed by hand using a spiked tong called a \u003Cem\u003Emalqat.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E The date maamoul traditionally has a circular shape with a flat top; the pistachio version is more like a pointy ellipse; while the walnut-flavoured biscuit is a smaller circle with a domed top.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEach year, Christian and Muslim families across the Palestinian territories and the greater Middle East make maamoul, as well as its simpler cousin \u003Cem\u003Eka'ak\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a flat, round biscuit made from the same dough – in the days leading up to Easter and Eid al Fitr. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Christian holiday of Easter, observed this year on 17 April, follows Lent – an observance recognising the 40 days Jesus spent in the desert fasting – when believers traditionally abstain from animal products and alcohol for the same number of days. Eid al Fitr, meaning \"the feast of breaking the fast\", which starts on 2 May this year, is an Islamic celebration signifying the end of Ramadan, a month of fasting from dawn to sunset.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You go to the Old City [of Jerusalem] and you find both the Christians and Muslims fasting – it's special","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"This year, both Ramadan and Lent are together which is nice; you go to the Old City [of Jerusalem] and you find both the Christians and Muslims fasting – it's special,\" said Bazbazat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith extended family all together in one house, the jobs for making the maamoul are divided between groups. Some make the dough (which is left for one day in the refrigerator before being formed), some make the designs, and some are experts at knowing the right time to pull the sweet out of the oven.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor many who celebrate Easter or Eid al Fitr, maamoul creates beautiful memories.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We are three families plus all the neighbours; each day, we make the maamoul in one of the houses,\" Ghattas said, expressing what she views as a time of happiness and communal celebration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Bazbazat's family home, she and her five sisters, aunt, cousin, mother and grandmother make maamoul in the lead up to Eid al Fitr. \"Sometimes you feel very hungry when you're making it – you want to taste everything – but no one can touch it until the first day of Eid, then you can eat anything you want,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGhattas remembers trying to shape the dough into flowers when she was young, inspired by her mum who makes perfect decorations. At midnight, marking the end of 40 days of fasting, she and her family raise coloured hard-boiled eggs and knock them together (with the goal of being the last person left with an unbroken egg), and then rejoice in eating them as well as the long-awaited maamoul.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuslim families generally spend the first day of Eid together, and as is custom, send plates of ka'ak and maamoul dusted with powdered sugar to their neighbours – including Christians, who also send the biscuits to their neighbours at Easter. The next day, they welcome guests into their homes and offer coffee along with the delicious sweet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Christians and Muslims in Jerusalem have a lot to share. They live in the same houses, they're in the same city. We are like one,\" Bazbazat said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Palestinian territories, some of the main ingredients of maamoul, namely dates and walnuts, are grown locally. The dates, the best type being Mejdool, come from Jericho and the farms in the Jordan Valley, in the east of the West Bank. While most people have walnut trees In their gardens, they also grow abundantly on the region's hilltops – from Al-Khalil (also known as Hebron) in the south to Jenin in the north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFadi Kattan, an internationally known chef and founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hoshalsyrian.com\u002Ffawda-cafe-restaurant\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFawda Restaurant & Café\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Bethlehem – which showcases traditional recipes and local ingredients with a modern twist – links the smell of maamoul to the memory of his grandmother making it when he was young.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Every attempt I made to try and decorate ka'ak and maamoul would ruin whatever she and her neighbours were doing, so I was nicely told to sit away and enjoy the smell,\" Kattan remembered, adding he was allowed to crush the walnuts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe says the smell, which occurs as the ghee cooks with the mastic and mahlab, is \"like something being caramelised, but there's nothing being caramelised\". There's really no replacement for mastic's flavour in baking, and as Kattan said, it's \"an uncompromising one\". \"You can use orange blossom or rose petal water, but it's not the same thing. Mastic has a sweet, earthy flavour – I cannot describe it,\" he said. \"If you played with pine trees when you were younger, that little sap that would seep out when it's cut, that's what it tastes like.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, Helou, who grew up in Lebanon, flavours her dough with orange blossom and rose waters (instead of mastic), and only puts mahlab in ka'ak, showing how the recipes can vary by baker and regions. \"[Mahlab] has a very strong taste. If you use it in the dough for maamoul, it interferes with the flavour of the cinnamon, fragrant waters and the walnut stuffing,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=01OFDuB1hDs\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECharles Perry\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, food writer and expert on medieval Arabic cuisine, \"maamoul is descended from a Persian stuffed cookie called \u003Cem\u003Ekulachag\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which appears in medieval Arabic cookbooks as \u003Cem\u003Ekulayja\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\" They were made from a dough with added butter or another fat like lard then rolled out to be moulded into elaborate designs of fish, birds, gazelles and geometrical patterns.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs culinary influences spread due to trade at the time, it's possible that maamoul has other relatives or ancestors. For example, when Egypt was ruled by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FMamluk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMamluks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an army of slave soldiers, from 1250-1517, a book titled \u003Cem\u003EZahr al-hadiqa fi ' l-at'ima al-aniqa'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (flowers in the garden of elegant foods) – written by Ibn Mubarak Shah, which was later translated into English by Professor Daniel Newman and published as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsaqibooks.com\u002Fbooks\u002Fsaqi\u002Fthe-sultans-feast\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Sultan's Feast\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2020 – details a recipe of a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Featlikeasultan.com\u002Fmedieval-egyptian-date-filled-biscuit-كعك-بالعجوة-kak-bi-l-ajwa\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emedieval Egyptian date-filled biscuit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E flavoured with aromatics like rose water, saffron and spices.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to historian Charles al Hayek, who runs a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fchannel\u002FUCbMXXx8BWLCS-3cfi9V9tpA\u002Fvideos\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYouTube channel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fheritage_and_roots\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram account\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dedicated to Middle Eastern culture, the tradition of handing out sweets for Eid al Fitr began during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FFatimid-dynasty\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFatimid Caliphate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the 10th to 12th Centuries, when the Caliph, or state, would gift them to everyone including servants following Eid morning prayers. As Sawsan (no surname) from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchefindisguise.com\u002F2018\u002F06\u002F10\u002Fthe-mystery-of-the-moulds-and-an-eid-recipe-round-up\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChef in Disguise website\u003C\u002Fa\u003E wrote, the sweets were decorated with phrases like \u003Cem\u003Ekol o oshkor\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (eat and be thankful) and \u003Cem\u003Ebel shukr tadoom al neam\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (with gratitude blessings are preserved). However, when the Ottoman Empire ended in 1922 and there was no longer an Islamic caliph, the tradition shifted from being a royal custom to one among private households\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMany, including Kattan, say that the patterns on the different maamoul moulds – such as the date mould's burning sun, or star, depending on your interpretation – were originally affiliated with ancient religions that worshipped nature. However, in Christian tradition, the date-stuffed maamoul (which has a circular shape) came to represent the crown of thorns placed on Jesus' head, while the pistachio maamoul is said to resemble the temple where Jesus was laid to rest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere isn't any particular symbolism in Islam relating to the design but the shape of the maamoul is still very special to those like Bazbazat. \"When I finish one of the pieces of maamoul and I look at it, I think 'wow, I'm an artist',\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile many families make maamoul at home, the biscuit is also available in most Arabic sweet shops during Easter or Eid al Fitr, often sold by the kilo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Palestinian city of Ramallah, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Feiffel_sweets_palestine\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEiffel Sweets\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is one of the oldest sweet shops making maamoul and is highly recommend by many residents. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Finstagram.com\u002Fakersweets1946?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAker Sweets\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another well-known shop in town, has multiple locations. In Jerusalem, the oldest shop, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCXZJSzfFYn5\u002F?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EZalatimo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, was established in 1860 and now has shops in Jordan (and also delivers to the United States via Amazon). Those living outside the region, however, can head to their local Middle Eastern bakery or try making the holiday biscuits themselves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, many professional bakers such as Ahmad Shaqier from Eiffel Sweets believes that homemade maamoul has an intangible quality unmatched by those made at the shops. \"It's a tradition found within the Palestinian families,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a kid, Shaqier used to carry the trays of maamoul made by his mum on top of his head to the nearby \u003Cem\u003EFurn al Arabi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a traditional bakery that uses wood ovens, for them to be baked. \"I always ate a couple of fresh ones before I took it all home. The memories related to maamoul are imprinted in a person's mind.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMaamoul recipe \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E(yields 20 walnut and 20 date biscuits)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Fadi Kattan of Fawda Restaurant & Café (adapted for BBC Travel)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETime required: overnight plus three hours of making\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the dough:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1.5 cups coarse semolina\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1.5 cups fine semolina\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E¼ tbsp ground Arabic gum (mastic)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E½ ground mahlab (cherry seeds)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 cup melted ghee \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1½ tsp yeast\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E½ tsp sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E½ cup warm water\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the walnut stuffing:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3oz chopped walnuts\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E¼ tsp ground cinnamon\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the date stuffing:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4oz date paste\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp olive oil\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFor the dough:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EMix the sugar, mahlab (cherry seeds), mastic (Arabic gum) and semolinas in a large bowl. Add the melted ghee and mix well to have the ghee absorbed by the semolina.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ELeave overnight, covered to infuse.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EThe next day, mix the warm water, yeast and sugar in a small bowl. After 15 minutes, add the yeast mixture to the semolina mix and knead well.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ECover and leave to rest for an hour.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESeparate the dough into roughly two halves, one for the date stuffing and one for the walnut stuffing.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFor the date filling\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E: \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EMix the date paste and olive oil, and then form into 20 small identical balls.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESeparate the dough into 20 identical-sized balls.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ETake a ball of dough in your palm and flatten it into a circle, and then place the date ball in the middle and fold the dough around it.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EUse the mould to create a design or spiked tongs to decorate the top of the cookie in symmetrical shapes.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESpace evenly on an oven tray lined with baking paper.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFor the walnut filling\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EAdd the sugar and cinnamon to chopped walnuts, and reserve in a bowl.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ESeparate the dough into 20 identical-sized balls.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ETake a ball of the dough in your hand and cup around it while using your finger from the other hand to hollow its centre. With a spoon, fill that cavity with the walnut mixture and then seal the bottom with the dough. You will end up with a dome on one side and a flat surface on the other side.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EPlace into the wooden mould or use the spiked tongs to decorate the side of the dome and then arrange it on an over tray lined with baking paper.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBaking and serving:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ELeave [both oven trays] to rest for 45 minutes while you preheat oven to 430°F (about 220°C).\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EBake for 12 minutes or until the top colour is slightly golden and the bottom is golden.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ELeave to cool before conserving in an airtight container.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EDust with powdered sugar to garnish.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-14T18:51:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Maamoul: A sweet celebration for Christians and Muslims","headlineShort":"The Easter treat uniting two religions","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"31.9472859","longitude":"34.6667345","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Maamoul is made at the end of both Lent and Ramadan, leading up to Easter and Eid al Fitr. But this year, the biscuit is extra sweet as both religions enjoy it at the same time.","summaryShort":"This year, both religions get to enjoy making it at the same time","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-13T20:22:42.276818Z","entity":"article","guid":"12d04cb8-12c1-4904-be84-d52ce04f0d28","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-15T12:40:11.051761Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396255},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk","_id":"62b420291f4b7b2942657405","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"This little-known delicacy from Serbia, made with milk believed to slow down the ageing process and boost virility, is the most expensive cheese in the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESlobodan Simić lounged on the crude wooden bench in Zasavica Special Nature Reserve’s dining room like the caterpillar from Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, holding court and puffing on the quarter-bent Calabash-style briar pipe that dangled delicately from his teeth. Tanned creases ran down his face like tributaries, and his eyes sparkled with mischief.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Rakia?” he said, offering me a shot of the strong Balkan brandy that is often drunk in the morning, even before coffee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“\u003Cem\u003ENe, hvala\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,” I replied, shaking my head and thanking him. Instead, I accepted a cup of thick Turkish coffee accompanied by a shot glass of donkey milk from Zasavica’s herd. It was my first time tasting the sweet milk; I was even more eager to try the donkey cheese, a delicacy I’d learned about a few years back when rumours swirled that Serbian tennis ace Novak Djokovic was buying up their entire stock for his restaurants. Although the rumours were untrue, they brought global attention to Zasavica – and Serbia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite being a nature lover, Simić never set out to create a farm. Twenty years ago, the former MP-turned-conservationist remembered that he’d heard about some wetlands in west-central Serbia. His ex-wife’s parents, who lived in a nearby village, took him to see them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I fell in love immediately,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EZasavica, named after the river that runs through it, is located just 90km northwest of Belgrade, but the 1,825-hectare area was virtually undiscovered. The place is ripe for bird watching, and in the summer, hues are so vibrant they seem otherworldly. With the help of his political contacts, Simić transformed the wild marshland into a nature reserve in 1997.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThree years later, Simić was at a fair in the nearby town of Ruma and saw some abused Balkan donkeys. No longer needed for work or transportation, they’d been beaten and were in bad shape. He had the idea to rescue them and bring them to Zasavica. Today, 180 Balkan donkeys, smaller than most donkeys and marked with crosses on their backs, roam the verdant marshland. Other native animals were added, including the Mangalica, related to the Hungarian “curly pig”, and the Podolian cow, originating from the European wild cow. Beavers were also reintroduced to the area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We lost contact with animals, and we need that contact,” Simić said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut I’d come for the donkeys. More specifically, for the donkey milk cheese, which is the most expensive cheese in the world due to the extremely low milk yield of the \u003Cem\u003Emagarica\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (female donkey): just 300 millilitres per day. Rich in vitamins and minerals, donkey milk is believed to slow down the ageing process and has been used as an immunity booster in the Balkans since ancient times. Cleopatra allegedly even bathed in it. It is also purported to boost virility.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If you drink our milk, you can even sleep with your own wife,” joked Simić, who has been married three times.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESimić had the notion to produce donkey milk cheese a few years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“He is full of crazy ideas, but he is always right,” said farm manager Jovan Vukadinović, a formidable former traffic police chief with a near-white moustache that resembled a bristle brush.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo one had produced cheese from donkey milk before, and it took some experimentation. Stevan Marinković, a dairy technologist, was brought in to consult. Donkey milk doesn’t have enough casein to make cheese, so he compensated by adding goat milk to the mix. The winning formula, which Marinković is in the process of patenting, turned out to be 60% donkey milk and 40% goat milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut despite there being no established rules for donkey milk (or donkey milk cheese) in Serbia, concerns arose over the use of unpasteurized milk, and Zasavica was forced to stop factory production of the cheese.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the meantime, until official regulations are determined, local cheese makers Zoran Nedić, Momčilo Budimirović and his assistant, Milena, are producing small amounts of donkey cheese with milk pasteurized at low levels for Zasavica in a room adjacent to Budimirović’s kitchen in the nearby village of Glu&scaron;ci.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI sat at Budimirović’s dining table with Nedić, Vukadinović and Simić, who were chatting in rapid Serbian. \u003Cem\u003EDomaće crno vino\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (domestic red wine) and a wedge of white cheese were on the table.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Is this donkey cheese?” I asked. Vukadinović shook his head. “Goat cheese, so you can taste the difference.” It was tangy and crumbly, with a dark \u003Cem\u003Ekora od hrast \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(oak bark) rind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen, without much ceremony, Budimirović brought out a much smaller bell-shaped chunk of \u003Cem\u003Emagareći sir\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (donkey cheese). It had a yellowish tinge, and was less crumbly than the goat cheese. This piece, the size of a cupcake, would sell for 50 euros, I was told. Nedić cut me a slice. Its flavour was sweet, clean and mild, unlike any cheese I had ever tasted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe headed to the cheese room to see how it was made. That day, the trio of cheese makers were crafting goat cheese, but they explained donkey cheese is essentially made the same way – although the exact method is a secret. Rennet is added to the milk to help it coagulate, and the curds are strained and hand packed into moulds. The cheese stays in the mould for 24 hours, then it is removed and refrigerated in a large trailer cooler in Budimirović’s yard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EZasavica also sells donkey milk cosmetics, such as donkey milk soap and anti-ageing face creams, which contain essential fatty acids and high levels of vitamin A; and donkey milk liqueur that tastes like milky Limoncello.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe reserve, which has been supported by international grants, is working to become self-sustaining. Selling animal products is part of that plan, as is camping: Zasavica was rated among the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.camping-zasavica.com\u002Fcamping-zasavica-amongst-100-best-campsites-in-europe\u002F250\"\u003E100 best campsites in Europe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2013 and 2014.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We made something in the middle of the nothing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“We made something in the middle of the nothing,” Vukadinović said. “We always have to find new ways to survive. It’s easy when they say ‘sustainable tourism’, but it’s not easy. We want to be the best. We know we can’t change the world, we can’t change Serbia, but we always want to do just a little better than normal. That is our mission.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJust before I left, Vukadinović and I took a walk through the reserve. Donkeys grazed on shrubbery and frolicked in the grass. They nuzzled, cleaned each other and nursed. A grey donkey ambled toward me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“She’s pregnant,” Vukadinović said. “A magarica can be pregnant for more than a year.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI reached out and rubbed her forehead, fingering her coarse hair. She nuzzled my hand and leaned her body into mine. When we turned to leave she followed me, nudging for more attention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“They are very intelligent and social,” Vukadinović said. He bent down and hugged her neck. “This is very good for the stress.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe sat down at a picnic table for lunch. Sun illuminated the flat landscape, highlighting various shades of green – moss, pine, fern – against a clear blue sky. Frogs sang. A stork soared overhead, landing on her nest atop Zasavica’s 18m-high watchtower.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EVukadinović brought out a plate of cured meats: Mangalica sausage, speck and donkey sausage. I cringed a little. “Try it,” he urged, gesturing to the donkey sausage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis was one of their products I had \u003Cem\u003Enot\u003C\u002Fem\u003E planned to sample. “How do you choose which donkeys are made into sausage?” I said. He explained that male donkeys sometimes become interested in their daughters, and then “it’s sausage time for them.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI speared a mottled slice with a toothpick. The fatty meat was tough and slightly gamey. Even eating an incestuous donkey felt wrong after communing with these gentle creatures – but Zasavica embraces the cycle of life, replete with its imperfections.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHere you can go back to a way of living that has all but disappeared, when people cured their own meats and made their own cheese. You can experience virgin nature. You can believe, even for a moment, the local legend: on this land there was too much sun from Christ, which forever marked the Balkan donkey with a cross pattern on its coat, running down its spine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=tvl.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called “If You Only Read 6 Things This Week”. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital, Travel and Autos, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk-16"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2016-07-27T19:51:42Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A cheese made from… donkey milk?","headlineShort":"The most expensive cheese in the world?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"44.9517","longitude":"19.5017","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This little-known delicacy from Serbia, made with milk believed to slow down the ageing process and boost virility, is the most expensive cheese in the world.","summaryShort":"It's made with milk believed to slow down the ageing process and boost virility","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T22:46:14.774417Z","entity":"article","guid":"fa6e5d8a-ed4f-4c26-a5e4-5d3ac31db3f2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T07:08:52.317363Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396255},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b293839f2aa","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjonathan-shipley"],"bodyIntro":"Across large swaths of North America, an ancient fruit is growing wild but largely forgotten. However, a community of foodies, farmers and scientists is eagerly trying to change that.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Where, oh where, is pretty little Suzie? Where, oh where, is pretty little Suzie? Where, oh where, is pretty little Suzie?\" asks the traditional folk song. \"Way down yonder in the pawpaw patch.\"\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ESuzie knows more about pawpaws than most, it seems. North America's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhgic.clemson.edu\u002Ffactsheet\u002Fpawpaw\u002F%20%20\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elargest native edible tree fruit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E grows wild in 26 US states, including Texas, Ohio, West Virginia, New York and Michigan and all the way up to Ontario, Canada. Yet most people have never heard of it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat's because pawpaws have never been sold on a large scale. Commercial farmers have long shunned them because they need a special growing environment of low, wet areas and because they spoil only a few days after harvest – so you won't see the yellow-green fruit next to the grapes at the grocery store. Nevertheless, a community of avid pawpaw fans across the US – from festival organisers and chefs to scientists and independent farmers – is expanding the love for this forgotten fruit, and they want you to love it too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They are so delicious,\" said Michael Judd, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FLOVE-PAWPAWS-Manual-Growing-Pawpaws-ebook\u002Fdp\u002FB07RZ8VQYR\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFor the Love of Paw Paws: A Mini Manual for Growing and Caring for Paw Paws – From Seed to Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. During the harvest season (typically a few weeks in late summer or early autumn), his diet consists mainly of pawpaws taken right off the branch. \"It's a nutrient-rich superfood,\" he added, listing off the pawpaw's many attributes: antioxidants, all the amino acids, magnesium, copper, zinc, iron, potassium, phosphorus, vitamin C.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo help get the word out, Judd will be hosting his seventh annual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ecologiadesign.com\u002F2022\u002F03\u002F01\u002Fpaw-paw-festival-longcreek-homestead\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epawpaw festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E this September, on his farm in Frederick, Maryland, which includes tastings, jam making, pawpaw ice cream, music, lectures and more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c27dy3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn even larger festival in Ohio has been drawing fans since 1999. \"Last year we had close to 10,000 visitors,\" said Chris Chmiel, co-owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fintegrationacres.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIntegration Acres\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Albany, Ohio, where he grows pawpaws, ships pawpaw products and helps organise the village's annual festival. \"People attend every year, and it has become a family tradition to many. We also host a pawpaw cook-off, best pawpaw competition and a pawpaw eating competition. The pawpaw beer has been a huge success for the festival!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChmiel stumbled on the pawpaw as a college student, and it influenced the course of his studies and his career in sustainable agriculture. He even has a tattoo of the fruit on his arm. \"It's a tropical fruit growing right here in Appalachia… it's sort of the king of the native plants around here,\" he said in a 2018 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=eeoE1R7Xk8s\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETEDx Talk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe pawpaw is in the same family as the custard apple, cherimoya, sweetsop, soursop and ylang-ylang. It's a subtropical fruit that migrated north from Central America, and it is atypical; the only member of the family not confined to the tropics.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe earliest fossil evidence of pawpaws originated in the Miocene Epoch, about 23 to 5.3 million years ago in what is now Colorado. Over time, the climate has had warming periods, expanding the range of tropical areas north and, by extension, the pawpaw. Additionally, scientists have hypothesised that pawpaws were dispersed northward by megafauna, like mastodons, mammoths and sloths, sabre-toothed cats and giant beavers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere is evidence that humans played a role in pawpaw dispersal as well. \"Natives in the eastern half of the country have always used pawpaws,\" said \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhum.ku.edu\u002Fdevon-abbott-mihesuah\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDr Devon Mihesuah\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a citizen of the Choctaw Nation who holds the Cora Lee Beers Price professorship in International Cultural Understanding at the University of Kansas. \"Iroquois reportedly mashed pawpaws and made the flesh into cakes and then dried them in the sun. They were used as a travel food or mixed with water into cornbread.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1541, Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto took note of Native Americans cultivating it east of the Mississippi River. George Washington wrote in his diary in 1785: \"Planted all my cedars, all my pawpaw, and two honey locust trees.\" (Though there's no historical documentation, it is said chilled pawpaw was Washington's favourite dessert.) In 1786, when Thomas Jefferson was minister to France, he had pawpaw seeds and plants shipped from Virginia to friends in Europe. A journal entry from the explorers Lewis and Clark dated 18 September 1806 recorded that the men were \"entirely out of provisions\" but \"appear perfectly contented\", living \"very well on the pappaws.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe fruit's texture has been compared to custard, and the flavour is \"a blend of banana and mango, with undertones of vanilla, caramel, pineapple, coconut and melon, depending on the cultivar\", said Sheri Crabtree, a horticulture and research extension associate at Kentucky State University's pawpaw research programme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c22d9n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany an aficionado will tell you that the mango-shaped orbs – yellow-green on the outside with gold-orange flesh, and 7 to 13cm long with a weight of up to half a kilogram – are best enjoyed hand-picked off the tree. But for now, it's nearly impossible to find them at a local grocery store; instead, farmers sell the fresh fruit or its frozen pulp online direct to consumers or at local farmer's markets. Pawpaw trees are also sold by nurseries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EScientists are at work, though, learning more about the pawpaw and finding ways to make it more economically viable. Iowa State University is developing a pawpaw variety with a longer shelf life and a larger fruit with fewer seeds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKentucky State University has a pawpaw programme too. \"We're interested in pawpaw from an ecological standpoint as a native plant that is losing habitat, and from a horticultural standpoint as a unique high-value fruit crop that can be grown sustainably since it's well suited for the climate,\" said Crabtree. She noted that over the past 20 years she's seen awareness of the fruit grow, driven by the shift toward sustainable and local food production and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.slowfood.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlow Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E movement. Some of that attention is also driven by efforts to honour indigenous foods. As Mihesuah pointed out, \"Tribes are attempting to protect and revitalise their traditional food sources, and pawpaws are an important part.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChefs and brewers in the food and beverage world are also raising awareness. Taylor Knapp is the chef behind \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pawpawpopup.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPAWPAW\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a pop-up restaurant dedicated to showcasing ingredients farmed, fished and foraged on the North Fork of Long Island in New York. His frequently changing menu has included dishes like local duck breast with pawpaw sauce, a pawpaw sundae with black walnut caramel and burnt orange meringue, and pawpaw and white chocolate bon bons. Clearly Knapp, like many others, is a devotee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Pawpaws are an incredible native fruit that rivals the most sought-after exotic specimens we ship in from around the world,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0c35pn2"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, it seems that pawpaws are becoming more and more fashionable. Tim Luscher of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fsigluscherbrewery.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESig Luscher Brewery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Frankfort, Kentucky, crafts pawpaw beer. Alicia Burton of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fjepthacreed.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJeptha Creed Distillery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Shelbyville, Kentucky, makes pawpaw brandy. Chef and culinary educator Sara Bir recently wrote \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbeltpublishing.com\u002Fproducts\u002Fthe-pocket-pawpaw-cookbook?_pos=1&_sid=082f8ea67&_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Pocket Pawpaw Cookbook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"At their best, pawpaws are custardy. Therefore, I love them in baked custards and chilled, dairy-based desserts,\" she said. \"They also do well in tropically inspired savoury foods – a pawpaw beurre blanc spiked with habanero pepper to serve with shrimp, say.\" And Minnesota-based chef Alan Bergo, a noted forager and hunter of obscure wild foods, has taken a shine to the fruit, sharing recipes for pawpaw \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fforagerchef.com\u002Fpaw-paw-panna-cotta\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epanna cotta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and pawpaw \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fforagerchef.com\u002Fpaw-paw-cheesecake\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Echeesecake\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on his website.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's an enthusiastic collection of hard-working individuals eager to put the pawpaw on a bigger stage. George Washington would be pleased.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EForgotten Foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offers hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life through cooking and cultivation.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit-6"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-26T20:29:56Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The revival of a forgotten American fruit","headlineShort":"The fruit that once fed mastodons","image":["p0c22djw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220413-maamoul-a-sweet-celebration-for-christians-and-muslims","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220328-the-return-of-frances-lost-menton-lemon","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160720-a-cheese-made-from-donkey-milk"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Across large swaths of North America, an ancient fruit is growing wild but largely forgotten. However, a community of foodies, farmers and scientists is eagerly trying to change that.","summaryShort":"Ancient beasts ate it, now humans want North America's forgotten fruit too","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fconservation","tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Ffestivals"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-25T20:31:41.806083Z","entity":"article","guid":"f3205f48-02d5-43bd-8a76-65d8ec48cb5c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-23T13:03:25.240383Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights","_id":"62b420341f4b7b28cd2509dd","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Although it seems obvious there would be a southern equivalent to the northern lights, the Aurora Australis might be the southern hemisphere’s best-kept secret.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Can you remind me why we’re here?” my husband asked, sounding slightly annoyed. I’d promised him a mini break by the sea, sans kids for the first time in five years. What the reality looked like, however, was pouring rain in a tiny Tasmanian town where low-rise houses were huddled by grey, choppy water and nary a shop in sight. It was winter and freezing cold. I could understand why he was less than impressed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I feel like this is Australia’s birthright. And people just don’t know about it.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe’d just arrived in Southport, the most southern township in Australia, where we were staying at a deserted caravan park that declared itself “The Last Stop in Tassie” – whether that was proudly or despondently, I wasn’t quite sure. My husband also didn’t yet know that I had an ulterior motive to our child-free break. I’d been hearing more and more over the last few years about the Aurora Australis, the southern sibling to the Northern Lights. Although tourists flock to see the colourful, dancing lights that sweep across the skies in high-latitude regions from Canada to Iceland, few seem to know that the southern hemisphere has its own equally magical lightshow – and I was determined to see it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“I feel like this is Australia’s birthright. And people just don’t know about it,” said Margaret Sonnemann, author of the Aurora Chaser’s Handbook and founder of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002Fauroraaustralis\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAurora Australis Tasmania\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Facebook page.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Southern (and Northern) Lights can be seen around the magnetic poles when the upper atmosphere is hit by energetic charged particles that travel along the Earth’s magnetic field lines. When those energetic electrons collide with gases in the atmosphere, they emit light.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“They occur when there’s a release of energy due to collisions between polar atmospheric gases of the Earth and precipitating high-energy charged particles guided by geomagnetic field from the magnetotail,” said Dr Rakesh Panwar at the Australian Bureau of Meteorology, Space Weather Services. He explained that they are seen mostly at high or polar latitudes, but occasionally may be seen at middle latitudes when a large solar event occurs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough it’s true that the Southern Lights have been seen from mainland Australia, they’re more commonly seen from Australia’s island-state of Tasmania (or from New Zealand), due to its clear skies and proximity to the pole, which is why I’d dragged my husband 600km south from Melbourne.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI wasn’t the only one fascinated by the magic of these dancing lights. Sonnemann, an American who moved to Tasmania 32 years ago, told me that she got hooked on aurora chasing back in 2005 when she was driving south to Hobart, the state capital. Although it wasn’t the first aurora she had seen, she said it was the most captivating. It was happening behind her as she drove, reaching up to the heavens, straight above her head.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It was pretty much a black-and-white experience, but the movement of the beams was magical,” she said. “It changed dramatically from second to second, shooting up into the sky. It was beautiful and exhilarating.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200505-tasmanias-ruggedly-beautiful-quarantine-sitehttp:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200326-why-the-humble-meat-pie-defines-australia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe food that defines Australia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200505-tasmanias-ruggedly-beautiful-quarantine-site\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA ruggedly beautiful quarantine site \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190902-an-extraordinary-landscape-at-the-edge-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's bizarre coastal desert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough Sonnemann knew other locals who were interested in aurora chasing, there was no central source of information to draw on to find out when and where they were happening. She realised that a notification system was needed. “Since auroras are weather dependent, we needed to be able to not only say ‘it’s happening now’, but where it was happening,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESonnemann started her Facebook page in 2010, mostly with a handful of interested locals (it now has more than 85,000 members and 10 admins). “But it quickly became photographers,” she said. “That’s because aurora photography can be the best way to see the lights.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShe said that although people associate auroras with streaks of colour lighting up the sky, in Tasmania, you’ll likely see a white light without a camera, perhaps with some coloured glow around it, unless there’s enough cosmic activity to make the aurora big enough. “You can’t see a lot of colour with the naked eye, as our eyes are not designed to see colour at night,” she explained. “To see strong colour, [the aurora] needs to be very bright.” However, use a camera and the results can be spectacular.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Because we’re looking more towards the horizon, we get just about every colour: red, greens, yellows, blues and purples","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAsk Sonnemann what she loves most about the Aurora Australis, and her face lights up. She’s passionate about the topic and it makes sense when she tells me that people call her the “Aurora Lady”. “One of the nice things about our auroras is that most of them are not overhead,” she said, explaining that Tasmania is much further from the South Pole than many northern hemisphere aurora hotspots are to the North Pole. “What that means for photographers is that they get a better variety of colours if they’re looking at something that’s on the horizon. If you look at aurora photos from spots in the northern hemisphere, they're often green, which is pretty much the colour you’re going to get if it’s overhead. Because we’re looking more towards the horizon, we get just about every colour: red, greens, yellows, blues and purples.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I like to say that it’s like seeing music,” she added, smiling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EFind a good viewing spot during daylight hours\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ETry to ensure minimal light pollution\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EMake sure you have an unobstructed view to the south\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EPractice photographing stars to get your camera focus right\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EUse \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sws.bom.gov.au\u002FGeophysical\u002F1\u002F2\u002F1\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea local K-index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (such as the kH (Hobart) or kL (Launceston) in Tasmania)\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EJoin a local Facebook group, like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002Fauroraaustralis\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAurora Australis Tasmania\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FauroraserviceAUS\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAurora Service - Australis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for on-the-ground tips\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECamera settings:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ETune your camera to be extremely sensitive to light, with a full-frame sensor and wide-angle lens\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EWide aperture: F2 or F4 (as low as possible), to let as much light in as possible\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ELonger exposure of about 15-20 seconds\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EISO 3200-6400 (as high as possible)\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E","calloutTitle":"Aurora Australis tips","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhat’s also unique about the Southern Lights is that they can be seen year-round. Although many people (myself included) assume that aurora chasing is a winter sport; that’s because northern hemisphere aurora spots have the midnight sun in summer. In the southern hemisphere, whether you’re in Tasmania, New Zealand or even parts of southern Victoria, you’ve got a real possibility of seeing an aurora in mild summer weather, although you’ll have to stay up later as it doesn’t get dark until 21:00 or 22:00. And the lights can be equally stunning, ranging from intense white pillars in the sky to ethereal streaks of greens and reds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, I’d clearly picked a bad weekend, with murky skies and fat drops of rain. One Southport local told us that he can often see the aurora from his back deck in summer. But not this time of year. Come back when it’s clear weather, he said. He was right. The sky was a blanket of grey cloud, and later, when it got dark, there was nothing to be seen in the thick, inky blackness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, when I’d met with Sonnemann earlier that day, she’d told me that I’d made another incorrect assumption – I didn’t need to be staking out Australia’s southernmost spot for my best chance of seeing the lights.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Preferably you need to be away from city lights, but you can see them anywhere in this state,” she said. “You need a clear view to the south, so no hills, no trees. It’s just as good all over Tasmania, whether you’re in Devonport or Hobart. Anywhere where it’s darkish. You can see it in your own back yard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo, the next morning we packed up and fled the tiny town for Bruny Island, two islands connected by an isthmus across the D'Entrecasteaux Channel from Southport. Bruny Island has a wealth of delights to interest the traveller, from its world-famous cheese to its unique white wallabies, so I figured there would be plenty to do even if we were thwarted by the fickle light show. The island is so remote that even without an aurora the night skies can be magical, with the Milky Way on full show and a blanket of stars cossetting you.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe drove from the ferry terminal, past wineries, breweries and cheese shops to our accommodation, down a single road with dense gums on either side that occasionally broke rank to give a startling view of the glistening ocean. The accommodation I’d booked had a 180-degree panorama over Cloudy Bay, where lulling waves broke into white-crested spumes as they flopped onto the shore, which was a strip of golden sandy beach surrounded by thickly forested hills of blue gum and stringybark. It was spectacularly beautiful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This is a photographer’s dream,” said Ben Kienhuis, operations manager at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrunyisland.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBruny Island Coastal Retreats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as he unlocked the front door and showed us in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe was right. From the living room window was a clear view across the bay, with nothing blocking our sightline to the horizon. This, I hoped, would be the place to see the ethereal aurora. Kienhuis explained that the night skies here can be so spectacular that his team have recently started offering \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrunyislandphotography.com.au\u002Fauroraphotography-tour\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaurora photography tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which take amateur photographers to various locations on the island to take in the glory of these clear southern skies and, hopefully, the Aurora Australis. They believe their new aurora tour is the first of its kind in Tasmania.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The auroras can be spectacular,” said photographer \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Ftscharke\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELuke Tscharke\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who runs the tours with Kienhuis. “But there’s no aurora tourism [in Tasmania],” he added. “You don’t see people advertising to take you out to see the Southern Lights because it’s just so challenging to predict or guarantee that you’d see them.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut the thrill of the chase is clearly part of the fun. To help me with my search, Sonnemann had introduced me to various apps and meteorological sites that are designed to help the amateur aurora chaser, which detail the wind speed, the Bz (the orientation of the interplanetary magnetic field) and the K-index (the level of disturbance in the Earth’s magnetic field), among other indicators. Combined, they give a guide as to the probability of an aurora happening. Facebook groups, such as Sonnemann’s, are also an excellent place to find out from locals on the ground where and when an aurora might occur. Understanding the readings was complex but addicting. I found myself feverishly checking the app on my phone, hoping for a change in conditions that might bring the aurora to me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There are never any guarantees,” Sonnemann reminded me. “People say, ‘I’ve heard this prediction…’, but you never know.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, despite the elusiveness of the lights, there’s been a surge in interest in the Aurora Australis over the last few years. Sonnemann explained that most of the members on her page are now not locals and photographers, but international tourists who want to see the aurora. Her concern is that there’s currently no infrastructure to handle them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You don’t see people advertising to take you out to see the Southern Lights because it’s just so challenging to predict or guarantee that you’d see them","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“It really disturbs me that we have people coming down here, from places like Singapore, who have never seen a dark sky before, and are petrified of driving in the dark,” she said. “Their whole lives have been fully lit. They’ve never seen ‘dark’. So they end up flying down and don’t even go out. They don’t want to drive in it. I just think that’s horrible.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo try to meet the demand, she’s working on a project to create aurora viewing platforms, which she envisages as sheltered spots that people can drive or taxi to, where they’ll find explanatory signage and photography tips – and likely other aurora chasers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Even if there’s not an aurora – and there’s not one every night – they might be seeing the Milky Way for the first time,” Sonnemann said. “They can still see a beautiful night sky, even if there’s no aurora.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat night I stayed up late, staring at the thick cloudy sky through the windows. The K-index was hovering at one and the wind speed was low, meaning an aurora was unlikely. It was freezing cold, and I fell asleep in front of the fire. Around 02:00, I woke up, startled by a noise perhaps, or maybe a sense that something was going to happen. I opened the sliding doors and stood in front of the bay, the frigid air pressing into me on all sides and making it hard to breathe. I looked up into the thick night sky. There was no aurora. But the clouds had finally cleared, leaving a never-ending blackness punctuated with stars. I stood there quietly, listening to the gentle roar of the ocean that stretched, unhindered, all the way to the South Pole.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI should have been disappointed, of course, but for some reason I wasn’t. Perhaps it was the magic of the experience or the magnitude of sky; whatever it was, I was sure that the aurora would reveal itself to me when the time was right. For now, though, I drank in the solitude, the space, the silence. Whether or not I was ever going to see the Southern Lights, I knew that I was glad to be here, on an island off an island off an island on the very edge of the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-23"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-07T21:25:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Australia’s answer to the Northern Lights","headlineShort":"Is this Australia's best-kept secret?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although it seems obvious there would be a southern equivalent to the northern lights, the Aurora Australis might be the southern hemisphere’s best-kept secret.","summaryShort":"It's the southern hemisphere's answer to the Northern Lights","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:51:43.71676Z","entity":"article","guid":"45e6a044-3022-48b9-88a9-88a1c6f9f936","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:12:00.468467Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396256},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b2e4a757fc2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Home to Portugal's \"mountain of stars\" and some of Europe's least light-polluted skies, the Alentejo region is best seen at night.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA long twisting road leads up Portugal's highest mountain, and here, unlike many other European summits, visitors can drive right to the top. The peak rises 1,993m above sea level, and although its actual name is Torre (tower), most people just call it by the same designation as the range it lofts over: Serra da Estrela or \"mountain of the stars\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy day, the drive offers wonderful views across the undulant landscape of this narrow country – from the red hills of Spain in the east to the blue Atlantic Ocean in the west. However, the real spectacle comes as the sun starts to drop. Not only is this mountain a popular spot to watch golden sunsets, but for those who stay later, it offers a glimmering night-time fresco that covers the heavens, made up of millions of white pinpricks scattered in glorious imperfection.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the past decade, Portugal has \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.departures.com\u002Ftravel\u002Ftravel\u002F9-best-stargazing-destinations-us\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egained recognition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for being one of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationalgeographic.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002Fworlds-best-stargazing-sites\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etop places in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for travellers to observe the night sky, thanks to the creation of the 3,000 sq km \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdarkskyalqueva.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDark Sky Alqueva\u003C\u002Fa\u003E reserve, in Portugal's central Alentejo region. In 2011, the reserve was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdarkskyalqueva.com\u002Fen\u002Fstarlight-certification\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecertified as the world's first Starlight Tourism Destination\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstarlight2007.net\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStarlight Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Unesco-supported international organisation that promotes science and tourism. This status celebrates the region's ideal viewing conditions (low levels of light pollution and an average of 286 cloudless nights per year, which result in some of Portugal's darkest skies), but also the wider tourism infrastructure it has inspired, which is set up to cater specifically to stargazers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDark Sky Alqueva is also the starting point for a stunning three-hour road trip that takes you through some of the least light-polluted parts of Europe, winding along the area's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdarkskyalqueva.com\u002Fen\u002Fthe-route\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDark Sky Route\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a curated collection of activities and accommodations), and rising all the way to Portugal's highest peak, fittingly called the Serra da Estrela, or \"mountain of stars\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMy friend and I began our intergalactic journey 300km south of Serra da Estrela on a particularly dark night in the village of Cumeada, where a school has been transformed into \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdarkskyalqueva.com\u002Fen\u002Fdark-sky-observatory\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDark Sky Alqueva's observatory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which hosts stargazing sessions and astrophotography exhibitions. Here we met Miguel Claro, a guide and Dark Sky Alqueva's official photographer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Portugal is waking up to this immensely unique and valuable natural resource that has long been underappreciated,\" Claro said. \"Dark Sky Alqueva is the astronomical equivalent of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211031-how-a-portuguese-fishing-village-tamed-a-100ft-wave\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe giant wave 'discovered' by surfers in Nazaré\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – something that had been hiding in plain sight, waiting for people with the right sensitivity to take a closer look.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EClaro is a deep-space specialist, and when he is not taking groups on night-time stargazing expeditions, he spends his time photographing far-away objects like nebulae, galaxies and star clusters. These are things that can look faint and underwhelming to the naked eye or even through an eyepiece of a telescope but explode with colour and detail when photographed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"To get good images you need very specific conditions,\" he said. \"Luckily here we have excellent weather, very little cloud cover and a lack of light pollution or heavy air traffic, which makes it perfect to shoot the sky. Unlike the coastal areas that have long been developed, the Portuguese backcountry remains scarcely populated and undisturbed, which makes it much easier to pick up light sources from outer space without interference.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Cumeada Observatory is open every night from Tuesday to Saturday year-round, and travellers can come to observe the Moon, the stars and the Sun using binoculars and telescopes. Claro expertly guided us on a heavenly tour of constellations and planets, as well as the Milky Way and the Orion Nebula.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe next morning we travelled through time rather than space, arriving just before sunrise at the 7,500-year-old stone circle of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eboramegalithica.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlmendres Cromlech\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another landmark on the Dark Sky Route, located near the Unesco World Heritage city of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F361\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EÉvora\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The biggest prehistoric monument on the Iberian Peninsula isn't gated and can be visited by day or by night – it looks especially awe-inspiring under the pale glow of the moon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite predating Stonehenge by at least 1,000 years, Almendres Cromlech was only brought to the attention of the scientific community in 1964 and doesn't get anywhere near the same footfall or levels of protection. Still for Mario Carvalho, a local guide and experimental archaeologist, it could teach us more about early humans' in-depth understanding of their world, by day as well as at night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"This stone circle is organised in a very complex way,\" he explained, as he showed us around the site. According to Carvalho, the stones follow a much more complicated equinoctial orientation than the one Stonehenge uses, which is based on the winter solstice. To find the equinox, the builders would have spent years observing the rising and setting of the Moon and the Sun, which suggests that the population was sedentary rather than nomadic, reflecting a monumental shift in human activity at that period.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It basically shows us the beginning of farming,\" said Carvalho. \"And sites like this show that from the earliest times we have looked towards the sky for answers. Then during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FEuropean-exploration\u002FThe-Age-of-Discovery\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAge of Discovery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Portuguese navigators used the stars to guide them to the New World and beyond. It's interesting that today we seem to have renewed interest in outer space with the dark sky movement.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDriving through the sleepy countryside of the Alentejo, it was surprising to see how little things have been affected by modern development. Large swaths of land are still farmed in the same way they would have been hundreds, if not thousands, of years ago, with small herds of animals grazing under the cork oaks and olive groves. The whitewashed villages also tell a story of their own: street names echo new lands across the sea, and ancient churches boast frescos of navigation and adventure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAbove it all hangs the area's star-filled canopy. It's a draw by itself, but Apolónia Rodrigues, the founder of Dark Sky Alqueva, has been working to bring more to the table in terms of tourism offerings. \"The Alqueva Dark Sky Route is a network of local accommodation owners who support stargazing,\" she explained. \"Many now stay open outside of peak season, offer late check-in times and receive guests all though the night, off the back of nocturnal excursions. They also have more flexible catering options and packed meals to take out into the field.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShe has also worked with partners to develop memorable activities, such as moonlight wine tasting, night canoeing and weekend-long festivals called \"star parties\". And then there are all the other daytime experiences than can be added to the region, such as visits to historical sites and cultural centres, as well as fantastic local cuisine and wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERodrigues sees stargazing as an essential part of Portugal's sustainable tourism future. Mass tourism is not the aim, but rather maintaining a healthy balance between local development and environmental preservation. She is using lessons learned at Dark Sky Alqueva to help found additional dark sky reserves further north in the country that also provide favourable star-viewing conditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring the final stretch of our journey, a succession of tight hairpins overlooking steep drops required us to keep our wits about us as we made our way to our last stop: the Serra da Estrela mountain range. Near the summit, we met Natalina Correia, a Portuguese national on a road trip with her boyfriend; they are visiting the mountain for the first time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"My boyfriend enjoys driving on more challenging roads, and here the main roads are absolutely fantastic,\" she said, gesturing at the snaking grey tarmac that cut through the bold landscape ahead. \"From here you can see all the way from Spain to the sea – it's incredible. The Portuguese coast is unrivalled for sunsets as it faces due west, but up here it's even more impressive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe pair settled on a spot near an abandoned old observatory and Portugal's highest police station. It made for a pretty picture, the geometric architecture contrasting against the natural rock formations and the pink-red sky.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe summit was indeed a glorious location to see off the end of the day and made for a good opportunity to reflect on everything we had learnt on the road. Then true to its name, the mountain of stars began to reveal its full treasures as the night set in. Thanks to our time in the observatory, we could now name some of the constellations, planets and nebulae that slowly came into view.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the most poignant lesson of all was perhaps about the value of properly observing our surroundings. The stars are – like many of the most beautiful things in life – slightly hidden from direct sight, but simply spellbinding once we take a proper look.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Instagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-12T20:41:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The ultimate stargazing road trip","headlineShort":"The ultimate stargazing road trip","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.7717148","longitude":"-8.1249675,15","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Home to Portugal's \"mountain of stars\" and some of Europe's least light-polluted skies, the Alentejo region is best seen at night.","summaryShort":"Here, you can pick up light sources from outer space without interference","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-11T20:43:10.104185Z","entity":"article","guid":"b2f2db10-630d-4557-b120-90bebf7e2c08","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-13T14:12:29.527956Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396256},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust","_id":"62b420381f4b7b2e4c481bc3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Swedish constitution allows anyone to ski, cycle, skate, swim or camp almost anywhere in the country.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESwedish ice-climbing instructor Markus Nyman warms up his students with an off-piste ski tour, snaking past pine trees so thick with powder that locals describe them as \"snow ghosts\". They're only a few minutes' slalom from the main chair lift that takes alpine adventurers to the top of the slopes of Duved, a 17th-Century village 640km north of Stockholm. But soon they're swapping skis for crampons and poles for pickaxes as they prepare to scale a frozen waterfall in the middle of the forest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Beginners as young as 12 aim to reach the top of an 8m near-vertical wall of thick ice","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The first feeling is so strange because you can walk on such slippery ice and have such a perfect grip,\" explained Nyman. Many of his clients, he says, are families who want to \"combine skiing in the resort with trying something challenging and new\". Beginners as young as 12 aim to reach the top of an 8m near-vertical wall of thick ice, using pickaxes to latch on to the frozen glaze and slowly haul themselves up the slippery crag. A top rope and harness keep them secure if they lose their hold. Star pupils can move on to an 18m icefall, if their muscles can take the strain while braving temperatures that can plummet to -20C.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDemand for Nyman's services peaks during February and early March, as the days get longer and the ice hasn’t yet begun to melt. But the main reason he’s so busy is due to an annual Swedish tradition called \u003Cem\u003Esportlov\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a nationwide school holiday designed to enable Swedish children to get outside and embrace winter sports. Schools across the country shut down for a week at a time, efficiently spread over a month to make sure resorts don’t get too crowded. And, with most Swedes entitled to at least five weeks' holiday a year, many parents take time off to join them. Single 20- and 30-somethings continue the habit into adulthood too, renting mountain cabins with friends.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESportlov originated during World War Two when the government-run energy commission recommended shutting down schools for a week to save money on heating in the midst of a European coal shortage. In order to keep children occupied while their parents worked, state-funded outdoor activities were offered instead. \"When everything went back to normal and the war was over, officials saw the good impact on the kids and came up with the idea that this was a good thing to keep,\" explained Emelie Thorngren, who organises children's activities for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.friluftsframjandet.se\u002Fin-english\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwedish Outdoor Association\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the country's biggest non-profit outdoor sports organisation. \"They wanted kids to do more physical activities and especially to make sure urban kids got to the mountains or the woods.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese days, some municipalities still lend out ice skates or toboggans or offer subsidised day trips to nature reserves during the week-long holiday. A range of non-profit groups also offers free or cheap outdoor experiences during sportlov and beyond, including the Swedish Outdoor Association, which consists of 300 local clubs. \"We have activities from zero to 100 years old and we are never about competition,\" said Thorngren. \"We welcome [everyone] to be in nature with us and take part in all the experiences and have all the good health benefits.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis sporty take on spring break taps into a national love for nature that has long held a special place in the collective Swedish heart. Since medieval times, Swedes have embraced a concept called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitsweden.com\u002Fwhat-to-do\u002Fnature-outdoors\u002Fnature\u002Fsustainable-and-rural-tourism\u002Fthe-right-of-public-access\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eallemansrätten\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the right to roam) pertaining to the country’s great outdoors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A law allows anyone to ski, cycle, skate, swim and camp almost anywhere in Sweden","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFormally enshrined in the Swedish constitution in the 1990s, this veritable national law of wanderlust means that Swedes and foreign visitors alike can ski, cycle, skate, swim, camp and – yes – even pick-axe up frozen waterfalls anywhere in Sweden that isn't on or near private property. And since \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsweden.se\u002Fnature\u002Fswedes-love-nature\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E97% of the nation is uninhabited\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and very few trails or beaches are private, there's no shortage of beautiful spots to explore: two-thirds of the country is covered in forest; there are 30 national parks and more than 4,000 nature reserves (together covering an area greater than neighbouring Denmark); nearly 270,000 islands and thousands of kilometres of bike paths.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEmbracing Sweden’s great outdoors has also been a growing trend amongst foreign tourists in recent years, with nature-based adventures and events among the top-five activities for global visitors in 2019, according to Visit Sweden, the country’s national tourism organisation. In the 10 months prior to the pandemic, around 60% of international overnight stays were to destinations outside Sweden’s capital. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20190909-why-flight-shame-is-making-people-swap-planes-for-trains\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eglobal flight-shaming movement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – started by Swedish activist Greta Thunberg – also boosted regional travel prior to Covid-19 restrictions, with a high demand for coastal and rural holidays from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mynewsdesk.com\u002Fse\u002Fegmont-publishing\u002Fpressreleases\u002Fresebarometern-2019-svenskarnas-resande-minskar-2858059\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwedes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.svt.se\u002Fnyheter\u002Flokalt\u002Fvarmland\u002Fnorska-turister-valjer-sverige\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorwegians\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oresundsinstituttet.org\u002Ffarre-flyger-inrikes\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDanes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fworklife\u002Farticle\u002F20200128-why-germans-are-flying-less\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermans\u003C\u002Fa\u003E keen to explore the Swedish countryside by train, ferry or car, rather than travelling further afield.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EAllemansrätten\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is also about rights and obligations that mean that you should take responsibility and show consideration for landowners and other visitors,\" explained Thorngren. \"We have this 'don't disturb, don't destroy' [mantra] and we teach all our kids that little saying... so you grow up with this, and you see the benefits.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The freedom to roam... this is our monument","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt Mid Sweden University in Östersund, a small lakeside city 90 minutes east of Duved’s ski slopes and waterfalls, Lusine Margaryan – an assistant professor specialising in nature-based tourism originally from Armenia – has been researching the obsession with outdoor pursuits in her adopted country. She says Swedes’ passion for spending time in nature is strongly linked to the fact that \"industrialisation happened in Scandinavia relatively late compared to most of mainland Europe.\" Once a nation of farmers, there were few urban areas in Sweden until the late 19th Century. Even today, there are no Swedish cities with more than one million people, and many Swedes still live in sparsely populated areas separated by vast tracts of wilderness. This has meant that \"traditions relating to the rural lifestyle and living off the land\" ended up sticking around. \"Hunting and fishing, berry picking, collecting timber... these skills have remained in the Scandinavian countries,\" Margaryan explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210201-langkawi-the-curious-island-of-the-strange-colugos\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Swedish chef who cooks solely with fire\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201203-why-swedes-dont-speak-to-strangers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Swedes don't speak to strangers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200526-swedens-single-diner-restaurant\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESweden's single-diner restaurant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven the country’s prime minister, Stefan Löfven, says he likes to clear his mind by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitsweden.com\u002Fwhat-to-do\u002Fculture-history-and-art\u002Fculture\u002Flocal-people\u002Fprime-minister-top-5-things\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Echopping wood, collecting cloudberries or skipping stones\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the lakes around Örnsköldsvik, his home town on Sweden’s northern coast. And the country's official tourism website \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitsweden.com\u002Fwhat-to-do\u002Fnature-outdoors\u002Fnature\u002Fsustainable-and-rural-tourism\u002Ffreedomtoroam\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eproudly states\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: \"Sweden has no Eiffel Towers. No Niagara Falls or Big Bens. Not even a little Sphinx. Sweden has something else – the freedom to roam. This is our monument.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt's also common for countryside cottages to be passed down through generations, says Margaryan, enabling many urban Swedes to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fworklife\u002Farticle\u002F20200813-the-swedish-staycation-obsession\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Espend holidays in more rural areas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E where their parents or grandparents grew up. Today, around one in five people own one, while more than half of Swedes have access to one via family or friends, according to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.scb.se\u002Fen\u002FAbout-us\u002Fnews-and-press-releases\u002Fhundreds-of-thousands-swedes-own-holiday-homes-in-other-municipalities\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStatistics Sweden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDuring the pandemic, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fhealth-52479763\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evalue of spending time outdoors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to reduce stress and enhance mental wellbeing (rather than just to keep physically fit), has become a mantra of governments and public health charities around the world. But these kinds of discussions date back centuries in Scandinavia and provide further context for Swedes’ love of nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA concept called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fvideo\u002Fp08wwmfc\u002Fthe-scandinavian-way-to-tackle-winter\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Efriluftsliv\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which translates as \"open-air living\", was popularised across the region in the 1850s, after the Norwegian playwright and poet Henrik Ibsen advocated spending time in remote locations as a form of relaxation. \"It's kind of very close to what we mean nowadays by mindfulness,\" Margaryan explained. \"So it is a search for a deeper connection to the landscape and being in nature and going into this very self-reflexive, meditative mood.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENyman agrees that his passion for ice-climbing (called \u003Cem\u003Eisklättring \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ein Swedish) is as much about keeping his mental health strong as it is about pushing his body's physical limits. \"You can't – even if you want to – think of something else like your day-to-day troubles, because you really have to focus,\" he said. \"And [from Duved] you can see down to the valley; you can see the mountains in the distance… really what most people think about when they get to the top is 'wow!'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Margaryan, who grew up in Armenia’s capital Jerevan, moving to Sweden has made it much easier to indulge her own lifelong passion for spending time outdoors. \"It's very ingrained in the local culture... and it's literally no effort to find some nature, because even the cities, they always have forests, big parks.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If [people] didn't grow up with the idea that they should go into the forest… the forest is perceived as a dangerous place","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, she notes she’s the only immigrant in her local running club and believes improving access to the outdoors for Sweden’s increasingly diverse population is an important challenge. One in five people living in Sweden was born abroad or have parents from other countries, but \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmiun.diva-portal.org\u002Fsmash\u002Frecord.jsf?faces-redirect=true&aq2=%5B%5B%5D%5D&af=%5B%5D&searchType=LIST_LATEST&sortOrder2=title_sort_asc&query=&language=sv&pid=diva2%3A1532750&aq=%5B%5B%5D%5D&sf=all&aqe=%5B%5D&sortOrder=author_sort_asc&onlyFullText=false&noOfRows=50&dswid=3085\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Equalitative research\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Mid Sweden University indicates that many are less engaged with annual traditions like sportlovor concepts such as allemansrätten and friluftsliv\u003Cem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EThis stems from a range of factors, like limited information about outdoor activities in languages other than Swedish, immigrants tending to have less disposable income for sports equipment, unfamiliarity with colder climates and cultural reasons that can affect their relationship with nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"If [people] didn't grow up with the idea that they should go into the forest… the forest is perceived as a dangerous place rather than where someone could go for a walk alone in the evening,\" said Margaryan.   \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut efforts are underway to better integrate immigrants and other vulnerable groups into Sweden’s outdoor lifestyle and improve their access to nature. Recent initiatives include \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fritidsbanken.se\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFritidsbanken\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the leisure bank), a nationwide non-profit organisation which works like a public library, loaning out donated sports equipment for up to 14 days. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-europe-43845098\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHej Främling!\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (\"Hey Stranger!) group puts migrants and locals in touch so they can do free outdoor activities like hiking or running together. Mid University Sweden has surveyed thousands of sports clubs to try and identify areas of improvement, and it’s involved in a new 56m kronor (£4.7m) \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mistra.org\u002Fnyhet\u002Fmistra-sport-outdoors-ska-framja-ett-hallbart-idrotts-och-friluftsliv\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esustainable tourism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E project that will, over the next eight years, test fresh ways to make sports equipment and transportation more accessible, while also protecting the environment. The Swedish Outdoor Association – which has \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.friluftsframjandet.se\u002Fdetta-gor-vi\u002Fsamhallspaverkan\u002FSamhallspaverkan\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elong lobbied decision makers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and politicians to increase funding to enable even greater public participation in outdoor activities – is among those involved in the programme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The more people who are given the opportunity to stay in nature, the more people want to protect it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It is important that all people are given the same opportunity to stay in nature and have access to outdoor life,\" said Thorngren. \"The more people who are given the opportunity to stay in nature, the more people want to protect it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd that, she hopes, will enable children in Sweden to keep enjoying the outdoors for generations to come, whether that’s scaling a frozen waterfall during sportlov, picking berries like the prime minister or just enjoying the benefits of a simple stroll around a city lake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\"\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-04-19T22:14:26Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Swedish law of wanderlust","headlineShort":"The Swedish law of wanderlust","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Swedish constitution allows anyone to ski, cycle, skate, swim or camp almost anywhere in the country.","summaryShort":"Sweden has no Eiffel Towers or Big Bens – but it has the 'right to roam'","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:04:48.469723Z","entity":"article","guid":"fde7b43f-6c0d-43b6-84d6-4f9dee5cc9d2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:40:44.827687Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396256},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b2e4c481bd3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flola-akinmade-kerstrm"],"bodyIntro":"A little-known meteorological phenomenon makes a tiny village in Arctic Sweden one of the best places on Earth to consistently see the Aurora Borealis.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm not so sure we'll see them,\" said my videographer colleague \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.erikjaraker.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EErik Jaråker\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as he looked at the fog all around. I was driving us up the single-lane highway towards one of Sweden's northernmost villages, Abisko, located 250km north of the Arctic Circle. We were caught in the middle of a snowstorm with zero visibility, and all around us, the mountains of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnational-parks.org\u002Fsweden\u002Fabisko\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAbisko National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E had become a sea of white.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe were heading up to photograph the elusive Northern Lights – nature's spectacular light show, also known as the Aurora Borealis. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fscience-environment-26381685\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edisplays occur\u003C\u002Fa\u003E when explosions on the sun's surface, called solar flares, collide with gases in the Earth's atmosphere to create shimmering bands of red, green and purple. To witness this Aurora activity, we needed frigid, clear, cloudless skies, not the winter storm we were currently slogging through.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Trust me,\" I assured him confidently. \"We'll see them.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI'd been here before under similar storm conditions, and I'd quickly learned that Abisko is home to a \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flightsoverlapland.com\u002Fwhat-is-the-blue-hole-of-abisko-and-why-does-it-make-abisko-national-park-the-best-place-on-earth-to-see-the-northern-lights\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eblue hole\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", a patch of sky that extends 10 to 20 sq km over the village, Lake Torneträsk and Abisko National Park and that remains clear regardless of surrounding weather patterns. This phenomenon makes Abisko one of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.swedishlapland.com\u002Fstories\u002Fabisko-worlds-best-place-for-northern-lights\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe best places\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the world to consistently witness the Aurora Borealis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Abisko, and northern Sweden, is indeed an ideal place to watch it,\" said Erik Kjellström, professor in climatology at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.smhi.se\u002Fen\u002Fabout-smhi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwedish Meteorological and Hydrological Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in an email. \"This is due to the fact that it lies within the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpolarpedia.eu\u002Fen\u002Fauroral-oval\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAuroral oval\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and it has a very long dark season – auroral observations are reported from mid-August to April – so there are plenty of Northern Lights around. The only thing needed is cloud-free conditions.\" And, he added, Abisko has those in spades thanks to its position on the eastern side of the Scandinavian Mountain Range, which runs along the Norway-Sweden border.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgjfjl"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHåkan Grudd, research support coordinator and deputy station manager of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.polar.se\u002Fen\u002Fresearch-support\u002Fabisko-scientific-research-station\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAbisko Scientific Research Station\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, explained further. \"The dominating wind direction in this area is from the west, which means that moist air masses from the Atlantic have to rise to higher (colder) altitudes to pass over the Scandinavian Mountains. When this happens, clouds form and the air loses moisture through precipitation. In Abisko, on the leeside of the mountains, the air is now drier and sinks to lower altitudes – clouds disintegrate, hence the 'blue hole'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo, it's no wonder Abisko draws professional photographers like me and Erik, as well as travellers who want to check off their bucket-list item of seeing the Aurora Borealis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat's what drew photographer and entrepreneur Chad Blakley too. In 2008, as young newlyweds, he and his Swedish wife, Linnea, wanted a change from their corporate lives in the US. Combining his love for the outdoors with an opportunity to better understand Linnea's culture, Blakely found work as part of the cleaning staff at the popular \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.swedishtouristassociation.com\u002Ffacilities\u002Fstf-abisko-mountain-station\u002F?_ga=2.168386977.1269210826.1655402896-572745334.1655402896\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESTF Abisko Turiststation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E hotel in the national park.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I learned about the blue hole by experiencing it,\" said Blakley, who, in the early days of his career, spent every night possible photographing the Northern Lights in the national park. \"You could see a hole in the clouds directly over the village, while the sky on the horizon in all directions was often cloudy and full of snow.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cfy9tp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2010, he and Linnea started an Aurora Borealis tourism company, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flightsoverlapland.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELights Over Lapland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And for those who couldn't make it up to the remote region of Sweden, they set up a still-camera \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flightsoverlapland.com\u002Faurora-webcam\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewebcam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that has been running for more than a decade and takes a picture every five minutes for an annual viewership of between 8 and 10 million. The company later added a live HD video camera, so that people could watch the lights in real time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We have seen Auroras consistently, nearly every single clear night, for more than 10 years,\" Blakley shared. \"And I am proud to say that the blue hole has helped Abisko gain a reputation for Aurora sightings.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBlakley is in the process of installing the world's first real-time, 8k, 360-degree Aurora webcam that will allow viewers to watch the Auroras live using a virtual reality (VR) camera and VR glasses next season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cfy9p1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Northern Lights are Abisko's main draw during the winter months, but the microclimate also provides other spectacular weather events too, such as very rare \"moonbows\", also known as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20161021-the-rare-phenomenon-of-the-moonbow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elunar rainbows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fearthsky.org\u002Fspace\u002Fwhat-makes-a-halo-around-the-moon\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elunar halos\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which occur when moonlight reflects and refracts through water droplets and ice crystals in the air surrounding the blue hole.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, for Anette Niia and Ylva Sarri, who are members of Sweden's indigenous \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20120706-in-sweden-a-long-journey-home\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESámi community\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Abisko is much more than its blue hole. There are about 70,000 Sámi living in the Arctic and subarctic parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland and the Kola Peninsula in Russia – a region collectively known as Sápmi. Both women have spent time in Abisko since childhood because it is also a reindeer herding area for their families. Niia explained that the area's microclimate results in thinner snow during winter, which means spring arrives early here – and therefore food for reindeer and other animals. \"The blue hole is something tourism companies talk about,\" she said. \"For us Sámi, Abisko is special for different reasons.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStill, she and Sarri also have a connection to tourism here – their families' ancestors were mountain guides for visitors starting in the early 1900s. Today, the women are the cofounders of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.scandinavianphotoadventures.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScandinavian Sami Photoadventures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which leads several outdoor experiences in Abisko, including Northern Lights tours. \"We as guides know that when we arrive at Miellejohka stream, which flows down from Cuonjavaggi [valley], and go past it, you can go from a full snowstorm to clear skies within 100m,\" said Niia. \"That's magic!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd that was exactly what happened when Erik and I finally arrived in Abisko: dense snow clouds hovered over the mountains encircling us, but we saw clear blue skies directly overhead. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn my first trip to Abisko several years ago, I remember scientist-turned-photographer Peter Rosén telling me that children were not supposed to look at or whistle at the dancing Auroras, or point at them in awe, otherwise the lights would come down and take them away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cgjd4w"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBorn and bred in Sweden, Rosén had grown up with these stories. Then in 1998, his career as an environmental researcher with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.arcticcirc.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClimate Impacts Research Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of Umeå University brought him to Abisko. He spent 13 years studying climate change in the Arctic through the Abisko Scientific Research Station. (In 2021, it was recognised as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpublic.wmo.int\u002Fen\u002Four-mandate\u002Fwhat-we-do\u002Fobservations\u002Fcentennial-observing-stations\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECentennial Observing Station\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the World Meteorological Organization.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen he arrived in Abisko, Rosén quickly learned about the blue hole and became fascinated by the Northern Lights. He produced his first photographs of the Auroras in 2001, which are now part of permanent installations in galleries around northern Sweden, including the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-europe-41172661\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EICEHOTEL\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the town of Jukkasjärvi. \"My colleagues used to call me a 'free-time researcher, full-time photographer',\" he joked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy 2012, Rosén had quit his work in environmental science to become a full-time photographer and run \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flapplandmedia.se\u002F?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELappland Media\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, teaching travellers how to properly photograph the lights. He recalls one of his guests, who had dreamed of seeing the lights since she was five years old. She had sought them across Canada, Norway and Finland, but to no avail. On her first night in Abisko, she broke down and cried after seeing what Rosén considered a really weak Aurora. Over the coming nights, they witnessed strong spectacular displays together.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cfy9t5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Seeing how people express their feelings after seeing the lights makes me feel I have the best job in the world,\" added Rosén. \"I've never regretted leaving my life as a researcher, because I'm now living my dream.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI remember my own feeling of awe my first time I saw the lights in Abisko, at the foothills of Mount Nuolja, 900m above sea level. Perched close to the summit is the remote \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fauroraskystation.se\u002Fen\u002Fwelcome-to-aurora-sky-station\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAurora Sky Station\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 20-minute chairlift ride up from its base. There's no better location to see the blue hole spread over the sparkling lights of Abisko and frozen Lake Torneträsk in the valley below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis time, as Erik and I ascended the mountain, finally riding the chairlift into pitch darkness after driving through that storm, the experience evoked a feeling of reverence for what we were about to witness: ethereal green lights dancing and folding in the heavens like curtains above us.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-23T10:10:30Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A 'blue hole' to the Northern Lights","headlineShort":"Sweden's 'blue hole' in the sky","image":["p0cfy9r5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"68.3494148","longitude":"18.8256561","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cfy9r5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220411-portugals-ultimate-stargazing-road-trip","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A little-known meteorological phenomenon makes a tiny village in Arctic Sweden one of the best places on Earth to consistently see the Aurora Borealis.","summaryShort":"It reveals the Northern Lights like nowhere else","tag":["tag\u002Fnatural-wonders","tag\u002Fremote"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-22T21:17:18.072995Z","entity":"article","guid":"df677bcb-e4aa-4320-bae5-d20359ef5bd8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-23T16:18:53.693142Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsweden","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_sweden_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396255},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic","_id":"62b420371f4b7b1d9a342485","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Two female polar explorers have been living in a tiny trappers’ cabin on Svalbard in an effort to rouse a global dialogue on climate change and inspire action.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp0934yvt.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E“Because being so isolated as we are here in the Arctic at Bamsebu heightens our connection to all things. It elevates our ability to feel, listen and to understand our place in this world. Our energy is channelled into aligning our unique and powerful role in this web of life and answering the question: what can I do to give back?” – \u003Cem\u003ESunniva Sorby, polar explorer\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was late July 2020 and I was in sunny Los Angeles while Sunniva Sorby and Hilde Fålun Strøm were in icy Longyearbyen, a town on the remote Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard. At 7,164km apart, this is a distance that normally entails at least a 30-hour odyssey by plane and boat, with a stopover in Oslo or Tromsø.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt this time of year, the Arctic harbour is usually clogged with cruise ships, tourists flocking like kittiwakes. But the coronavirus pandemic changed all that. Save for a few Danish and Norwegians, it was shockingly empty, the women told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I've been living here for 25 years,” Strøm told me over Zoom. “It’s supposed to be high season and we have two ships up here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESorby and Strøm were in Longyearbyen for a brief visit during a daunting adventure. For the previous 10 months, the two had been stuck in place, isolated like many of the rest of us. Only they’d done so with purpose and in extreme conditions – holed up in a tiny trappers’ cabin on the edge of the Arctic Ocean, 140km from Longyearbyen. There, the veteran polar explorers have been engaged in a singular conservation effort, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.heartsintheice.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHearts in the Ice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a project to rouse a global dialogue on climate change and inspire action.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESince they arrived at the hut in September 2019, the explorers have been managing seven climate change projects, each with its own protocol. For the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fscripps.ucsd.edu\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScripps Institution of Oceanography\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for example, they’ve been collecting sea temperatures, saltwater and phytoplankton – algae that pull tons of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and provide more than half the world’s oxygen. Fresh water from melting glaciers is negatively affecting how some phytoplankton reproduce, and the team’s weekly samples revealed clues about their behaviour, especially during winter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENasa, meanwhile, is interested in the effects of Arctic clouds on climate. Because the clouds above Svalbard are uniquely foggy and thick, it’s difficult for satellites to see what happens below them. So Sorby and Strøm have been photographing clouds and taking observations. They are also studying daytime auroras that are visible only in 24-hour darkness to better understand the conditions under which the mystical lights occur.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs part of their mission to create conversations around climate change, the polar experts have also been doing video chats with schoolchildren across the world. But with spotty access to news, they had little idea how many followers their project had drawn until they returned to Longyearbyen. “I am absolutely floored that our reach is international,” said Sorby, ticking off a list of nations. “It’s French, it’s Swiss, it’s German, it’s Norwegian.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s China,” piped in Strøm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThrough a stream of videos, photos and blog posts, they’ve been able to give viewers a remarkable view of polar research in real time, why it matters, and the challenges of living sustainably in such an extreme environment. “We’ve been able to communicate climate change in a way that is engaging and not depressing,” said Strøm. “And that was our goal.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20200301-rebuilding-the-worlds-northernmost-town\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERebuilding the world's northernmost town\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191017-a-mosque-in-the-land-of-midnight-sun\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA conundrum caused by the midnight sun\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190219-norways-beautiful-but-treacherous-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorway's beautiful but treacherous road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was their love of the Arctic and their concerns about its rapidly changing environment, that led them to create Hearts in the Ice. The pair were naturals to tackle such an ambitious endeavour. Born in Norway, Sorby grew up in Canada and lives in British Columbia. At 59, she has spent more than two decades working as a guide and historian in Antarctica. Among her many expeditions, she skied across the Greenland ice cap and across Antarctica to the South Pole.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStrøm, a 53-year-old Norwegian, was entranced by early trappers and their stories of survival as a child. She moved to Svalbard from Oslo more than two decades ago and has been leading expeditions ever since. She once spent a year zigzagging between trappers’ huts across the Arctic. “The dream to overwinter has been living inside this woman’s body for 25 years,” Sorby said of her partner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Who could be better than us to lead the charge up here as caretakers of Mother Earth?","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen the two women met in 2016, Strøm told her about Bamsebu, a ramshackle hut surrounded by polar bears. (In Norwegian, “\u003Cem\u003EBamse\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” means “bear,” and “\u003Cem\u003Ebu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” means hut.) No women had ever spent the freezing, dark winter in the legendary cabin without men. Immediately, the Antarctic explorer was game. “It was time for us to re-write history, to break with tradition up here, and to show that we are strong, capable, resourceful and successful without men,” Sorby wrote to me in an email. “Who could be better than us to lead the charge up here as caretakers of Mother Earth?”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThroughout their isolation, they’ve been posting witty accounts and videos of their expedition on social media. One such helpful \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvimeo.com\u002F401685425\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evideo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on their website reveals “how to survive in a small-box with ukulele and harmonica and axe”. That one-room “box” measures 20sq m and is divided by an alcove. Strøm sleeps on one side, Sorby on the other, their clothes and gear stored neatly under the bed so they’re easy to grab in case of an emergency. They’ve been extremely efficient at using space. “That little alcove,” said Sorby, “is our office, it’s my bedroom, it’s our dining room and our workout studio.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBuilt in 1930 to shelter whale hunters, Bamsebu naturally lacks certain amenities. There’s no electricity or running water, only a wood-burning stove. Strom tramps outside every morning to chop driftwood, then crawls back in bed as the cabin heats from the freezing night. “We very often woke up with minus degrees inside the hut,” Strøm told me. They make water by whacking ice and boiling it on the stove. To see in the polar darkness, they rely on solar-powered lights and candles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough they have survived without much, the explorers do have some high-end technology and equipment: an infrared drone to photograph wildlife and lethal algae blooms lurking in the sea; a satellite to link them to the world; electric snowmobiles to roam the tundra or make a six-hour “dash” for supplies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELots has gone wrong. During the three months of polar winter, when the Arctic is pitch-black and temperatures plunge to -34.4C, there were ferocious blizzards. At one point, their front door was ripped up in a polar hurricane, the roof nearly sheared off. “It was kind of scary,” recalled Strøm, “because if something like that happens you just have a few minutes and then you will freeze to death.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne night, Sorby ventured out of the cabin to gaze at the dazzling starry sky. Instead, she encountered a polar bear on the doorstep. Every time they headed outside, the pair carried a rifle loaded with rubber bullets and a flare gun, just in case. By July, they’d seen 50 polar bears. Reflecting on their long months alone, Strøm said, “There isn’t one single thing that we haven’t been able to handle.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike the rest of the world, the pandemic upended their lives even in Svalbard, a place few have ever been. The team was originally scheduled to leave Bamsebu by steamship in May 2020, where they’d be toasted on board by their families, friends and supporters. On 17 March – Sorby’s birthday – they learned their passage was cancelled and they couldn’t go home. “It took the wind out of our sails,” said Sorby.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"As travellers, we need to rethink how we’re travelling and why","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFaced with a crisis, they chose to adapt. With scientists unable to travel to do field research, their ability to continue doing climate science in the region became even more valuable. “It gave us meaningful tasks and a feeling of being relevant to stay,” said Strøm. They decided to spend another winter in Bamsebu, continuing their research for their scientific partners. If anything, they feel an even greater sense of urgency now, as record-breaking wildfires, hurricanes, and species loss have enveloped the globe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Climate change does not take a break, so neither are we,” said Sorby. “Our more is more relevant and vital during the pandemic with little field research being done.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter so many months of near-total isolation, their resolve to live a more sustainable life and conserve the natural world has only strengthened. During their stay, they’ve achieved one of their primary goals: to not waste water, food or energy. (For the record, they’ve taken just two showers.) When they got down to their last two shrivelled carrots, they didn’t despair, but gave thanks. “We have used so little and had so little, and still, I have been happier than ever with what I had,” said Strøm. “I have been much more grateful.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBoth explorers have also given a lot of thought to how to travel more responsibly. “It really starts with us as individuals,” said Sorby. “I wish people would stop trying to check off a bucket list. The whole idea of having a transformational experience doesn’t need to happen at the other end of the world. It can happen in your backyard.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe quoted Marcel Proust: “Perhaps the real voyage of discovery consists not in having new landscapes, but in having new eyes.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen we’re able to wander the world again, Strom believes we should be more mindful. “I think that’s very important today, and in the future,” she said. “In the Arctic there’s going to be a lot more restrictions to be a guest here. As travellers, we need to rethink how we’re travelling and why, and look at conservation.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Cem\u003Eor follow us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-21T21:01:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A defiant move to the Norwegian Arctic","headlineShort":"A defiant move to the Norwegian Arctic","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"78.2232","longitude":"15.6267","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Two female polar explorers have been living in a tiny trappers’ cabin on Svalbard in an effort to rouse a global dialogue on climate change and inspire action.","summaryShort":"The aim: to rouse a global dialogue on climate change and inspire action","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:00:30.936204Z","entity":"article","guid":"81ad3c10-d702-4325-a2e8-e3274e169f05","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:21:28.279396Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396257},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b29297fd868","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Known as the \"Crystal Eye\" to the Inuit, Pingualuit Crater was once the destination for diamond-seeking prospectors. But the real treasure is the stories its deep waters can tell.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe plane banked to the right, hard. As we took a first sweep at the runway – or, rather, the short stretch of bumpy land in the Arctic tundra that would serve as one – an alarm sounded, the lights above the emergency exits flashed red and the sound of the aircraft's engines roaring back into action filled the main cabin. My stomach lurched.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was an exhilarating introduction to the far north of Quebec, in a region known as Nunavik. Comprising the top third of Canadian province (larger than the US state of California and twice the size of Great Britain) fringed by frayed edges of a peninsula known as Ungava, most people don't even know it exists. But that wasn't always the case.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack in 1950, this area was splashed across newspapers globally and pegged as the eighth wonder of the world. Not because of the wilderness, and not due to any manmade structure, but because of the distinct land feature I was now flying over enroute to take another shot at the runway: Pingualuit Crater.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The name is Inuktitut for the skin blemishes or pimples caused by the very cold weather,\" explained Isabelle Dubois, project coordinator for Nunavik Tourism, who had previously only visited the crater in winter when the landscape was covered with snow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI looked out of the window to distract myself from our second landing attempt and thought how apt a moniker it was. The tundra here is pockmarked by clefts, fissures and depressions filled with tiny pockets of water. Yet amid the myriad indentations, the eponymous crater stood out significantly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Markusie Qisiiq, Pingualuit Park director and guide","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith a diameter of nearly 3.5km and a circumference well over 10km, it wasn't only its size that distinguished it, but also its symmetry. Almost perfectly circular and filled with water, the crater seemed as though a giant had discarded a compact mirror on the ground, which our tiny Twin Otter aircraft was now reflected in, appearing as no more than a tiny speck of dust.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith a few bumps, more warning alarms and a sudden and dramatic halt, we landed, just a couple of kilometres from the edge of this curio. We would stay at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nunavikparks.ca\u002Fen\u002Fexperiences\u002Fweekend-in-parc-national-des-pingualuit\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EManarsulik camp\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a cluster of five solar-powered cabins and the official base camp of anyone venturing into \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nunavikparks.ca\u002Fen\u002Fparks\u002Fpingualuit\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPingualuit National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the remotest national parks in the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200210-canadas-little-known-geological-wonder\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada's little-known geological wonder\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180418-tuktoyaktuk-canadas-last-arctic-village\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada's last Arctic village?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorway's icy marvel of engineering\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we unpacked the plane (there are no porters or staff here) and set ourselves up inside the warm cabins, I chatted with Pierre Philie, a French cultural geographer with a strong interest in anthropology and resident of Kangiqsujuaq (Nunavik's most northern settlement and gateway to this geographical wonder). He was sent begrudgingly on assignment to this part of Quebec 40 years ago, fell in love with it and a local woman, and never left.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPhilie showed me a copy of a black and white aerial photograph of Pingualuit. It was taken on 20 June 1943 by one of the US Army Air Force officers who spotted it. As I wondered what the officer must have made of it back then, Philie began to explain a little more about the crater.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was first known to anyone from the Western world that year, during World War Two, when fighter pilots spotted it and used it as a navigational aid. But they didn't share it with the rest of the world until the war was over,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"People hiking around Pingualuit crater","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen they did, in 1950, one of the first people to be mesmerised by it was a prospector from Ontario called Fred W Chubb. He was convinced the landmark was caused by a volcano, which would likely mean diamonds lay within it. He asked the advice of the then-director of the Ontario Museum, Dr Meen, who, equally captivated, journeyed there with him to investigate (it's the reason that for a short time Pingualuit was known as Chubb Crater) – but the volcano theory was eventually dismissed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Now we know beyond doubt that it is a meteor crater,\" said Philie, as the sun began to set over Manarsulik Lake, located about 2.5km from Pingualuit, leaving the edge of the crater as faint as a watermark on the dazzling pink horizon. \"Tomorrow we shall see it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe next day began at sunrise with a stroll among great shards of rocky clitter. Some, Philie explained, were large chunks of granite and broken bedrock (relics from glaciation during the last Ice Age); others were examples of impactite, formed as a result of melting during impact. The latter were ink black and covered with tiny holes, evidence from when the minerals within liquified and bubbled during the heat and pressure of the collision.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Its impact is estimated to have been 8,500 times stronger than the A-bomb dropped on Hiroshima","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The impact happened 1.4 million years ago,\" confirmed Philie, as we ascended the lip of the rim. \"Looking at the crater's width and depth [around 400m], its impact is estimated to have been 8,500 times stronger than the A-bomb dropped on Hiroshima.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat fact was remarkable. But finally reaching the edge and gazing down on the gaping hole of Pingualuit, where the lake inside sparkled with ice that encrusted two thirds of it – despite it being July – was even more astounding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Solar powered cabins at Manarsulik camp","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Of course, the Inuit knew about it before the Westerners came to look for diamonds,\" said Markusie Qisiiq, Pingualuit Park director and guide. \"They called it the Crystal Eye of Nunavik.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom where I stood, under an impossibly blue sky dotted with as many clouds as the tundra was with \"blemishes\", that name seemed to fit best of all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we made our way over the rough ground, circling the lake, Philie became increasingly animated. He spoke about the clarity of the water inside – which is fed only by rain and thought to be the second purest water in the world (only more transparent is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191001-japans-mysterious-lake-of-the-gods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake Mashu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Japan); about the mystery of the Arctic char that live within it – which scientists still can't agree on how they got there as there's no streams running in or out, and who have turned to cannibalism to ensure their own survival; and about evidence that shows that as well as the Inuit, another people roamed here too at least 1,000 years before them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The landscape is a living book,\" he concluded. \"There is so much we can learn if we take the time to read it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years people have been coming to do just that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2007, a team of researchers from Laval University in Quebec, led by Professor Reinhard Pienitz, visited in winter to take samples from beneath the water. Pienitz described it then as a \"scientific time capsule\" and one that, even as they continue to learn more about it, can reveal clues about past episodes of climate change and how ecosystems adapted under pressure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Ice inside Pingualuit crater","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI walked to the water's edge, where Philie picked up a rock and tossed it onto the frozen surface. The otherwise silent air was immediately filled with a melodious chime as splinters of ice ricocheted against each other and drifted off into the water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter filling our bottles to taste this pure H2O, we made our way back to camp. We only stopped once, forced to by the passing of an almighty caribou herd in numbers too large to count. As I watched this migrating wildlife spectacle alongside a crater as large as one found on the Moon, my stomach lurched once more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut this time it wasn't caused by a bumpy landing. Instead, it was the realisation that while there may be no diamonds here, there is a wealth of stories and scientific revelations just waiting to be discovered, mere metres beneath the surface.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEDITOR'S NOTE:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E A previous version of this article incorrectly stated that an extinct ancestor to humans once roamed here. This has now been corrected. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgeological-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EGeological Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the fascinating stories behind natural \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ephenomena and reveals their broader importance to our planet. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-04T10:27:27Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"An icy mystery deep in Arctic Canada","headlineShort":"An icy mystery deep in Arctic Canada","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Pingualuit Crater, Quebec","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"61.274722222222","longitude":"-73.660277777778","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Aerial view of Pingualuit Crater, Quebec","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Known as the \"Crystal Eye\" to the Inuit, Pingualuit Crater was once the destination for diamond-seeking prospectors. But the real treasure is the stories its deep waters can tell.","summaryShort":"It's known as the \"Crystal Eye\" to the Inuit","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-03T22:27:52.783492Z","entity":"article","guid":"6f8d9c2d-cb85-4a37-b5d2-fbd34f8585fb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T02:59:22.444647Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396264},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b28d0216dac","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Many people don't know that Norway is the world capital of outdoor stairways: superbly engineered wooden and concrete steps that lead to the country's most beautiful viewpoints.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWay up high – above the sky-blue fjord, the mountain lake, the evergreen trees and the escarpment – is a natural rock platform, rectangular in shape, raggedy in edge and made as if by a Norse God.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe path to get there narrows from a broad plateau to an exposed extremity leading to an obvious, yet vertiginous, viewpoint that feels as if it could collapse at any moment. I gawped at the sight. Don't look down, my inner voice said. Don't fall off.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This view is insane!\" someone shouted from behind me. I turned to greet the only other person on the cliff ledge, as a brutal wind threatened to blow us both clean off into the Lysefjord, some 600m below. It was a cold weekday in September and we were strangely alone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People standing at Preikestolen, Norway, with the Lysefjord below","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn many ways, the location and the sublime views from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpreikestolen365.com\u002F\"\u003EPreikestolen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or Pulpit Rock, near \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.regionstavanger-ryfylke.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStavanger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in south-west Norway are irrelevant, because what is important is the journey to get there. It is a hike up an expertly engineered and well-maintained stone staircase that is as much of a marvel as the finale itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's an ancient beauty to the stairway and it comes from the fact that Preikestolen – like nearly 300 other natural stone staircase projects in Norway purpose-built over the past two decades – has been crafted by teams of Sherpas from Nepalese communities living in the shadows of Mount Everest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere was a time when Norway's mountain paths would only see a handful of local visitors. But social media has changed all that, and over the past decade, the country has seen such a dramatic spike in overseas travellers keen to Instagram its viewpoints that something has had to give.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorway's icy marvel of engineering\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210418-the-swedish-law-of-wanderlust\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Swedish law of wanderlust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, Preikestolen is now among Norway's most hiked trails, with some 331,000 visitors reaching its exposed top in 2019. Last year, despite Norway closing its international borders due to Covid, the viewpoint still managed to attract a creditable 183,000 visitors. And \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flysefjorden365.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELysefjorden Utvikling\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the area's tourism development agency, is forecasting that the figure will reach 600,000 in a few years' time. That's 1.2 million boots marching up and down each year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhich is to say that, by necessity, the way people access mountaintop viewpoints like Preikestolen is changing. And, so far, the so-called Sherpa stairs are the best solution. Unlike normal hiking paths, they have been conceived to reduce the number of accidents and mountain rescues (by making it safer to walk) and created to help prevent erosion and strengthen the relationship between visitors and the land around them (by protecting the country's vulnerable mountain landscapes). They can also withstand all forms of weathering. Silently, they exist as monuments of an ambitious and more sustainable national plan to make outdoor exploration more sustainable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The stone stairway to Preikestolen","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fenglish.dnt.no\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\"The Sherpa stairs – or stone staircases – are one of many tools in facilitating Norwegian outdoor life,\" said Torgeir Nergaard Berg, trail advisor for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fenglish.dnt.no\u002F\"\u003ENorwegian Trekking Association\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"In areas with many visitors, this is the right answer. For many, the stone staircases can lower the threshold for experiencing nature, which is important to strengthen public health.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you're planning a trip to Norway, ensure that your environmental footprint stays as low as possible by visiting places that are labelled as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitnorway.com\u002Fplan-your-trip\u002Fgreen-travel\u002Fsustainable-destinations\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esustainable destinations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYou can also learn more about the country's right to roam \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitnorway.com\u002Fplan-your-trip\u002Ftravel-tips-a-z\u002Fright-of-access\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, including rules and regulations and tips on everything from foraging to fires.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tread lightly","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.stibyggjaren.no\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThe brains behind this bold experiment is Geirr Vetti, a 60-year-old mountain farmer turned managing director of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.stibyggjaren.no\u002F\"\u003EStibyggjaren\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an innovative trail building company based in the village of Skjolden on a branch of the Sognefjord, who told me his idea to enlist Sherpas first came to him in a dream 20 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I woke suddenly and thought they'd be perfect for the job,\" he said, excitedly, as if reflecting two decades later on now made the dream all the more fantastic. \"I'd never been to Nepal at that time, but I remembered a Norwegian expedition to Mount Everest and some of the names of the guides had lodged themselves in my memory – so with some detective work, I tracked them down and wrote letters to see if the Sherpas could help.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat the ethnic group are elite mountaineers and experts at working in difficult mountains conditions makes them the perfect trail builders, and today Vetti relies on a pool of some 120 hardy Sherpas every year. It is telling, he told me, that his business is thriving despite the coronavirus pandemic. This summer, 39 builders arrived to work on 20 projects across the country. Calls to build similar projects have also come in from around the world – namely, Sweden, the Faroe Islands and the Middle East – and, with 80 staircase developments and maintenance contracts cancelled over the past 18 months because of Covid, 2022 is ramping up to be Stibyggjaren's busiest year yet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Every mountain and every path is different and has its own challenges,\" Vetti said. \"But the Sherpas are almost superhuman, having evolved to master working at altitude. They're also making an invaluable, ongoing contribution to Norway's mountain heritage.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat began as a source of income in the Sherpas' climbing off-season is now an almost year-round operation. At the time of writing, organiser-in-chief Nima Nuri Sherpa, from the roadless and tight-knit community of Khunde in Nepal's Solukhumbu District, was working in the Lyngen Alps east of Tromsø to inaugurate a new mountain trail with seven others from the same village. Over the course of a month, his team were creating more than 400 steps, made from up to 500 tonnes of local stone, and manoeuvring each one-tonne slab by hand after they had been airdropped into the wilds by helicopter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Sherpas are almost superhuman, having evolved to master working at altitude. They're also making an invaluable, ongoing contribution to Norway's mountain heritage","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Our communities have always transported everything in and out of our region by ourselves or by yak, and these lessons have been passed down by every generation,\" said Nuri Sherpa, matter-of-factly. \"Traditionally, we found our calling as climbing guides, but building mountain stairways is less risky and of more benefit to the people of what is now our second home. This is good karma.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Nima Nuri Sherpa sitting on stone staircase constructed by Sherpas","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETheir work has even greater impact for the Sherpas at home in Solukhumbu: since the project's inception, schools and a hospital were able to be built in Khunde and neighbouring Khumjung, while income is continuously funnelled into the wider community to improve health and social welfare. Fittingly, the Sherpas, so inspired by their Norwegian projects, have undertaken similar work on the pathways that bind their mountain kingdom together.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Preikestolen is all about the rock platform views, Norway's other stairways to heaven offer an array of secluded lookouts, coastal seascapes and city-wide panoramas. In \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fjordnorway.com\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fmidsundtrappene-rorsethornet-p929623\"\u003EMidsund\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, outside of Molde, the stone stairway is a procession of 2,200 steps up to Rørsethornet peak from where you'll get a carousel view of ocean, fjord and mountain. Other highlights on the perimeter of Norwegian cities are the 1,300 steps that snake up Bergen's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.visitbergen.com\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fhike-up-mount-ulriken-p1710093\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMount Ulriken\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the purpose-built flight above Tromsø to Fjellstua; while the town of Mosjøen is home to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisithelgeland.com\u002Fno\u002Ftrip\u002Fturbeskrivelse-helgelandstrappa-i-mosjoen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHelgelandstrappa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Norway's longest stone staircase with 3,000 steps sculpted into the highlands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor me, the connoisseur's alternative to Preikestolen is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fjordnorway.com\u002Ftop-attractions\u002Fpreikestolen\u002Fkjerag\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKjerag\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Sherpa pathway to Lysefjord's highest peak that comprises the same stone steps and deep fjord views, but without the visitor crush of its close neighbour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPartly as result of the Sherpa stairs, on a late autumn's morning on the Lysefjord, hiking can feel pretty idyllic. In this land of steep cliffs, the stone stairways symbolise a longer lasting and more sustainable way to hike the mountains, and this is good news for anyone who loves the outdoors. Doubly so, in fact, for anyone troubled by the post-pandemic rise in hikers streaming out into the wilderness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, for Norwegians like the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.lofotenrangers.no\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELofoten Rangers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a torch-bearing voluntary project to raise awareness of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171015-why-norway-is-teaching-travellers-to-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Efjellvettreglene\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E(the country's deep-rooted respect for the environment), the Sherpa steps are great news. And they're an aspect of the country, chairperson Christina Svanstrøm told me, that is becoming increasingly embedded into Norway's national psyche.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Stone staircase snaking up Norway mountain in autumn","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Path erosion is a real problem in many regions with stand-out views,\" Svanstrøm said. \"At the smallest level, the Sherpa stairs teach hikers to follow the path in pressure areas, so the ground to the top remains available and solid in the long run. But another positive effect is how the structural limitations of the staircases has also become a shorthand for passing on good hiker advice and the ethics of mountaineering to visiting hikers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We do know that foreign tourists are overrepresented in rescue operations in Norwegian nature,\" added Nergaard Berg. \"There are many reasons for that, but there are at least many organisations and governmental agencies working to communicate knowledge about nature to visitors. This is key.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe message in Norway is then clear. These are mountains, fjords, plateau, cliffs, cities, towns and national parks that wear their new look proudly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo, when visiting the country, don't go seeking an alternative path.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPreserve and protect the habits you're exploring.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELeave no trace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd stick to the stairs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-11-22T21:50:47Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Norway's soaring mountain staircases","headlineShort":"Norway's soaring mountain staircases","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View over Norway's Rauma river and mountains from trails built by Sherpas from Nepal","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"58.9864","longitude":"6.1904","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"View over Norway's Rauma river and mountains from trails built by Sherpas from Nepal","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Many people don't know that Norway is the world capital of outdoor stairways: superbly engineered wooden and concrete steps that lead to the country's most beautiful viewpoints.","summaryShort":"Nepalese Sherpas come to Norway to construct these unparalleled mountain steps","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-11-21T21:51:27.516112Z","entity":"article","guid":"ba8fe312-ddd3-425e-a517-cd33a2c05f83","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:37:33.021951Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396263},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic","_id":"62b4203c1f4b7b291f09776b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanthony-ham"],"bodyIntro":"With Stalinist architecture, a prominent bust of Lenin and posters extolling the motherland, the desolate mining town of Pyramiden is one of the last Soviet outposts in the Arctic.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe journey to Pyramiden, on the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard, felt a little like a journey to the ends of the Earth. First I flew to the north of Norway, to the outermost reaches of the European continent. Next, I boarded another plane north to Longyearbyen, Svalbard's capital, on the island of Spitsbergen, an island closer to the North Pole than it is to Oslo. Then, just when I imagined that I had already reached the world's furthest north – in a place where the sun doesn't rise for four months of every year and doesn't set for another four, a place where Arctic fox and Svalbard reindeer roam the streets – I went a little further.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe final leg to the all-but-abandoned coal-mining town left behind the known world, or, rather, the world as most of us know it. I sailed on the small, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.visitsvalbard.com\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fspeedboat-to-pyramiden-and-nordenskiold-glacier-poli-arctici-p4774163\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethrice-weekly tour boat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from Longyearbyen, chugging out through churning Arctic waters while scanning the horizon for polar bears. By the time we rounded the first headland and turned for the far north, all was silence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELooking like cartoon caricatures of Arctic birds, puffins flew alongside the boat, a prelude to the great seabird colonies on the cliffs. Clouds swirled around snow-bound summits and high valleys where the snows turned charcoal grey in mid-summer snow flurries, then blinding white in sudden sunshine rays. Great, grey, scalloped outcrops rose from fjord beaches, stony and deserted. I was in awe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd then, across waters still nearly ice-bound deep into summer, lay Pyramiden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cfykxs"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFew arrivals convey the disconcerting power of pulling into Pyramiden. To the east, across the icy summer waters of Billefjorden, the glacier of Nordenskjöldbreen pushed relentlessly into the sea, a reminder that more than 60% of Svalbard consists of glaciers. Austere under summer cloud, elemental in its confluence of ice and water and rock, it was a poster child for Arctic beauty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPyramiden itself was littered with coal-mining detritus – steel girders and rusted ironworks lurching at odd angles, mine buildings collapsed into rubble, great mounds of black tailings – that loomed like a post-apocalyptic vision. Derelict mine railways scarred the steep hillside away to the north, while the grim uniformity of buildings built in the Stalinist style seemed to be trying their hardest to undo the beauty all around them. It could have been a movie set for a Cold War thriller in the Arctic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut there on the pier was Sergei Rubelev, waving enthusiastically in his white fishing sweater and beaming smile. Pyramiden may be a neglected outpost of the old Soviet empire, but Rubelev was, more than anything else, a human happy for company at his place of lonely vigil, and his welcome was warm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EApart from winter snowmobile expeditions and the occasional supply plane, Pyramiden is cut off from the outside world for eight or nine months of the year; not long before my arrival, Rubelev had over-wintered here. Starting in June or July, tourists descend on Svalbard's capital, Longyearbyen (population 2,400), on cruise ships and daily flights, with dozens of excursions and activities on offer, from dog sledding, kayaking and hiking to boat excursions in search of walrus. Among these excursions are the small tourist boats carrying 10 to 15 travellers at a time (and sometimes supplies) to Pyramiden, numbers and weather permitting. Sometimes the boats drop off or pick up scientists or local trappers at isolated huts along the way. Even in summer, the boats sometimes can't make it through the ice, and weeks pass without any boats arriving. No wonder Rubelev was happy to see us.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cfykxq"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was the Swedes who first discovered coal at Pyramiden in 1910. At the time, the legal status of Spitsbergen (as Svalbard was then known) was disputed; most of Norway's Arctic neighbours considered Spitsbergen to be international territory where they could do as they pleased. In 1925, nations from the Arctic and beyond signed the Svalbard Treaty. Under the treaty's terms, which remain in force to this day, the island archipelago belongs to Norway. But Norwegian power here is not absolute, and the treaty provides that \"All citizens and all companies of every nation under the treaty are allowed to become residents and to have access to Svalbard including the right to fish, hunt or undertake any kind of maritime, industrial, mining or trade activity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETaking advantage of Svalbard's somewhat anomalous legal status under the treaty, Sweden sold Pyramiden to Stalin's Russia in 1927 and it became one of two Russian outposts on Spitsbergen (the other, Barentsburg, is much closer to Longyearbyen). These were coal-mining towns – coal was the only reason they existed – operating under the Soviet behemoth mining trust known as Arktikugol. Hard as it is now to believe, Pyramiden in the 1950s had more people living here – 2,500 – than today live in Longyearbyen. It even outlasted the Soviet empire: its 60km of mining shafts were still in use in the early 1990s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This land belongs to everyone, and it belongs to no-one","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, it couldn't and didn't last. Dwindling coal production, coupled with the eye-watering cost and logistics of maintaining a town in such a forbidding place, sealed Pyramiden's fate. The mines closed in 1998, and, there being no other reason to live here, the town was abandoned. Only a skeleton staff of Russians like Rubelev remain to keep watch, although for what purpose remains unclear; it is difficult to imagine anyone mounting a raid to seize this forsaken corner of the Earth, nor could Rubelev do much about it if they did.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Rubelev led me along empty boulevards and past the hollowed shells of apartment blocks, a rifle slung over his shoulder to protect us from visiting polar bears, he smiled enigmatically when I asked whether we were walking on Russian or Norwegian soil. \"Both. Neither. This land belongs to everyone, and it belongs to no-one.\" He stopped for a moment, looking around him at the cracked pavements and Cyrillic slogans exhorting loyalty to, and extolling the virtues of, the Soviet Motherland. \"If you want it, you're welcome to it.\" And then he laughed, a great belly-laugh that I sensed had been building in the lonely hours and days since the last boat arrivals came ashore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cfykx4"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI had never been anywhere quite like Pyramiden. It was a dispiriting place, a cliché of human folly, a vacant monument, poignant and solemn, to a fallen empire, all writ large against a backdrop of astonishing, jaw-dropping beauty. A bust of Lenin watched over a parade ground overgrown with weeds. In the gymnasium with its broken glass windows, posters from the 1950s called on the patriotism of athletes to run faster and jump higher. Elsewhere, the floorboards sagged and creaked along corridors of sad, monochrome apartment blocks with faded brown wallpaper and worn, brown carpet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When I am here, I count the days until I can leave. But then, when I am back home in Russia, I long for this place and its silence","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet, the view from the windows was arresting. High Arctic summits encircled the town, creating a glorious natural bowl by the water. Chill winds picked the earth clean, revealing a scene rendered somehow more beautiful when seen through the silhouette of a semi-collapsed steel tower. Looming above the town was the pyramid-shaped mountain that gives the town its name. And glaciers. Everywhere to the horizon, there were glaciers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI asked Rubelev whether he could see the beauty of Pyramiden and its surrounds. \"When I am here, I count the days until I can leave,\" he replied. \"But then, when I am back home in Russia, I long for this place and its silence.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe tiny bar of the Tulpan Hotel was a snapshot of Pyramiden as it once was. Almost the entire population of Pyramiden – seven, at the time of my visit – sat at the bar where Olga Kuznetsova served vodka shots and discussed the news from far-off places. Over to the side by the window, were memorabilia – Lenin lapel pins, Karl Marx caps – that Kuznetsova sells to visitors whenever a boat comes to town. Kuznetsova's father worked in the mines of Pyramiden and she spent part of her childhood here. Was she nostalgic for Pyramiden's past, I wondered?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Sometimes yes,\" she replied in heavily accented English. \"Sometimes it seems as if life was simpler back then. But the mind can play tricks. It was a hard life here. Now Pyramiden is like a house haunted by ghosts and that makes me sad. But for all that, I love it here. It is a special place. It gets under your skin. Once that happens, it is very difficult to leave.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cfykwp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-21T02:07:34Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The abandoned Soviet mining town in Norway's Arctic","headlineShort":"A post-apocalyptic scene in the Arctic","image":["p0cfykyc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"78.6561","longitude":"16.3449","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cfykyc"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210120-a-defiant-move-to-the-norwegian-arctic","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With Stalinist architecture, a prominent bust of Lenin and posters extolling the motherland, the desolate mining town of Pyramiden is one of the last Soviet outposts in the Arctic.","summaryShort":"Getting here is like a journey to the farthest ends of the Earth","tag":["tag\u002Fremote","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-20T23:39:41.21586Z","entity":"article","guid":"41dbd547-971a-4bfb-851b-ec55a38e39a1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-20T23:39:41.21586Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsvalbard","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorway","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_norway_svalbard_europe_norway_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396256},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass","_id":"62b4204d1f4b7b3ef71c3a08","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"While Murano's glassmaking sector has been notoriously male-dominated for centuries, its new wave of glassmakers and designers is young, inventive and female.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe sound of techno-punk confirmed I was in the right place. In their instructions on how to reach \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flinktr.ee\u002Felcocalglasstudio?fbclid=IwAR0eZapXYeBbhBxPDqmfUMwc2O7OrtQL9qWLNR7yQ8lV_-_6QKwA-gGj2as\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEl Cocal Glass Studio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, co-owners Chiara Lee Taiarol and Mariana Oliboni had said to \"follow the music\" as I made my way down a dusty alley and into an industrial complex off the touristy streets of Murano, the tiny island in the Venetian lagoon known globally for its glassmaking craft. \"You'll hear us,\" they had told me over the phone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStepping inside their workshop, which was lit up by disco lights, the music was even louder. Three women – Taiarol, Oliboni and Natalie Nikolova, a recent addition to the team – were moving swiftly around the space as if in sync with the beat, taking turn to place a long\u003Cem\u003E ferro sbuso\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a metal blowpipe used to gather molten glass and begin the shaping process) into a red-hot, 1,200C refractory stone oven. Their working rhythm was deliberate, their movements almost choreographic. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The music powers us up,\" Oliboni said, as she saw me and went to turn the volume down. \"We do things a little differently from other studios, but we like it this way.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe techno-punk is only a part of it. El Cocal is Murano's first female-owned glass furnace. \"Different\" is the watchword for its entire essence – though you could say revolutionary, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor much of its 700 years' history – the Republic of Venice moved all glass furnaces and their artisans here in the late 1200s to contain the risk of fires in the city and, some say, protect the techniques behind the art – Murano's glassmaking sector has been notoriously male-dominated, often by families that have been in the business for generations. Sons, not daughters, would inherit the furnace and its trade secrets, beginning training as young as nine to master the craft of Venetian-style glass (the official descriptor for glass manufactured on the island).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"While you would find them doing lampwork (a type of glasswork in which a torch or lamp is used to melt the glass) decorating glass objects or serving as \u003Cem\u003Eimpiraresse\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (bead-stringers) for jewellery-making, women were nowhere to be seen in the workshops themselves,\" said \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.istitutoveneto.it\u002Fflex\u002Fcm\u002Fpages\u002FServeBLOB.php\u002FL\u002FIT\u002FIDPagina\u002F1672\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERosa Barovier Mentasti\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a historian specialising in the history of Venetian glass. \"Molten glass can be extremely heavy to handle, so glassblowing was considered to be too much of a physical discipline for them to do.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe blistering heat of the furnace – to be moulded in the kiln, glass requires temperatures of up to 1600C – was another reason why women weren't deemed fit to work the field. To have them run their own studio would not only have been mostly unheard of, but unthinkable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"As far as records go, the only woman who was ever given permission to lead her own furnace was Marietta Barovier, in 15th Century Venice,\" said Mentasti. \"She came from a family of glassmakers and would end up creating her very own glass design – the \u003Cem\u003Eperla a rosetta\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – which is still produced today. But for the most part, the whole industry has always been a very masculine space.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I wanted to demonstrate that when it comes to glass, physical strength might be less important than determination and the power of imagination","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEl Cocal, which Taiarol founded in January 2021 after a decade working with glass in the United States, is now working to correct this exclusionary history. \"When I moved to Murano from abroad looking to work in glassmaking, I felt alone professionally,\" she said. \"I had all this experience, but it didn't seem to matter. I got tired of being merely tolerated, if not openly rejected, by the local sector.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe decided to make El Cocal a formative space for women to learn about and work with glass. \"I wanted to demonstrate that when it comes to glass, physical strength might be less important than determination and the power of imagination,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOliboni concurred. \"I had never been in a furnace until Chiara asked me to join her,\" she said. \"One year on, I can make objects out of this impossibly elusive material. I am proof there's space for everyone in this craft.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Falexissilk.com\u002Fartist\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlexis Silk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an American artist and trained glassmaker who's been working in Murano since 2012, also seeks to challenge the industry's modus operandi. \"Murano is a place steeped in tradition,\" she said. \"That's exactly what makes it so unique, and its glasswork so special. But it's also its biggest drawback. It's hard to look at the future and welcome changes when you're so anchored in the past. Through my presence here, I hope to foster the advancement of this art and show that a woman is as capable of working glass as any man.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESilk makes monumental figurative pieces of female bodies that explore themes such as objectification and societal perceptions, sculpting them entirely freehand. They can weigh up to 32kg and stand up to 2m tall. In the glassmaking world, there are very few people who work on such a large scale – and that goes for all genders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo help her handle the glass, Silk works with eight to nine glassmakers – all men – at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.arsmurano.it\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArs Murano glass factory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the island's most internationally renowned workshops. But, between episodes of sexism and pushback, it took her a while to find a team she could trust.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There generally is a reluctance towards letting women in,\" she said. \"It wasn't until Ars Murano that I felt at home as a glassmaker. Here, they respect me. There's a complete lack of ego.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMentasti agrees. \"In the world of Murano, design has been the greatest conquest for women,\" said the historian. \"It's the space where they have been able to form meaningful relationships with the glass workers and, in a way, redefine the 'rules' of who is and isn't allowed in the workshop.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVenice-based sisters Elena and Margherita Micheluzzi, who launched their own glassware brand \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.micheluzziglass.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMicheluzzi Glass\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2019, are a case in point. The duo work collaboratively with master glassblowers to create their collections of vases and table glasses, which are made by cold-carving into blown glass. \"We've learned from watching our father [Massimo Micheluzzi, one of the sector's most renowned glass designers],\" shared Elena. \"We discuss every piece we make with the maestri, and consider their suggestions. In turn, they strive to understand what we're after. We've encouraged a dialogue, and that's helped both us and them. It's how you push Murano forward.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Silk and the crew of El Cocal remain a minority when it comes to physically working in the furnace, other women who have yearned to work with glass have found an alternative way of entering this all-male environment: design and art.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the past three decades, a growing number of female creatives has in fact been working closely with Murano's \u003Cem\u003Emaestri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the glass masters who head the furnace) and glassworkers to bring their glass dreams to life, by designing the pieces and having them do the glass work. Names like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.michelacattai.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMichela Cattai\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.federicamarangoni.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFederica Marangoni\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Flauradesantillana.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELaura de Santillana\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have become synonymous with the island and some of its more forward design aesthetic, pushing the boundaries of what's possible to do with glass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore recently, a new wave of women designers – both foreigners and Italian – has also been revisiting the craft in inventive, contemporary ways, relying on techniques that have been used for hundreds of years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor art consultant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwomenforwomen.org.uk\u002Fnadja-romain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENadja Romain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, they are keeping Murano's revered craft alive. \"I think female artists understand the material in their own unique ways,\" she said. \"They approach the medium with astounding creativity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs an example, she mentioned the exhibition \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneberengo.org\u002Fproject\u002Funbreakable-women-in-glass\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnbreakable: Women in Glass\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which she co-curated in 2020. The show featured more than 60 contemporary female artists from around the world who have worked in the furnaces of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.berengo.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBerengo studio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a glass workshop in Murano, since it was founded in 1989. \"The wealth of works was phenomenal, exploring the myriad possibilities of glass,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.laurasattin.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELaura Sattin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who works with glassblowers both in Murano and Basel, Switzerland, shared similar thoughts. \"Women are very good at working as a team. They listen, often better than men do. In Murano, that's an asset. It's something the maestri appreciate and respond well to. When there's a harmonious balance, great work happens.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, women – and new faces in general – might come to play a crucial role for the future of glassmaking on the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost of Murano's glassmakers are well into their 70s. In many glassmaking families, sons are no longer taking over from their fathers, but pursuing different careers, often away from the island. Soon, new talents will be needed to ensure the craft continues to be passed on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Since opening, we have had quite a few inquiries from girls and women to come train at El Cocal, and many of them are from Murano,\" Taiarol said. \"It's time to put scepticism behind and give us the opportunity to claim our space.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-rule\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWhy We Rule\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that follows powerful women who have pioneered the path to female sovereignty and are truly rulers of their worlds.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-18T10:09:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Venice's 'unbreakable' women of glass","headlineShort":"The inventive women changing Venice","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"45.4042007","longitude":"12.107146","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While Murano's glassmaking sector has been notoriously male-dominated for centuries, its new wave of glassmakers and designers is young, inventive and female.","summaryShort":"\"I got tired of being merely tolerated, if not openly rejected\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-17T20:10:40.348996Z","entity":"article","guid":"74e6d207-0e1c-44f1-8358-f41d32708407","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-18T12:04:37.232485Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396258},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200910-florences-wine-portals-from-the-17th-century":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200910-florences-wine-portals-from-the-17th-century","_id":"62b420361f4b7b292031d6ca","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"video","assetVideo":[],"author":[],"bodyIntro":"While a Florence restaurant was forced to close due to Covid, it was able to keep one part of the business open in the form of 17th-Century buchette del vino, or “wine holes”.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Cem\u003Ebuchette del vino\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or “wine holes”, became very import to Florence during the plague of 1630 as they allowed for the safe sale of wine and food. Today, there are more than 180 of these socially distant, libation-serving windows from the 17th Century that are peppered throughout the Italian city; however, few locals knew their original function before the pandemic. Since lockdown, they have drawn people from around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor more on this and other stories watch,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravelshow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe BBC Travel Show\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E – every weekend on the BBC News Channel and BBC World News.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200910-florences-wine-portals-from-the-17th-century-0"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-09-11T21:09:55Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Florence’s wine portals from the 17th Century","headlineShort":"The ‘wine windows’ of Florence","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While a Florence restaurant was forced to close due to Covid, it was able to keep one part of the business open in the form of 17th-Century buchette del vino, or “wine holes”.","summaryShort":"Few locals knew their original function before the pandemic","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:54:55.923258Z","entity":"article","guid":"b1e60484-0345-4500-b1b3-2bd350401032","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200910-florences-wine-portals-from-the-17th-century","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:15:33.295523Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200910-florences-wine-portals-from-the-17th-century","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396258},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice","_id":"62b420361f4b7b1d9a342484","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Although many travellers assume that the “authentic” Venice is long gone, the city still harbours the last remnants of a once-great civilisation, with its own language and customs.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EVenetians have an uncanny ability to dodge, deflect, blend in, disappear in plain sight. Perhaps that's why so many travellers assume that “real” life in Venice was long ago trampled out of existence by hundreds of millions of tourist feet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe truth is, the city still harbours an indigenous culture – the last remnant of a once-great civilisation, with its own language and customs. Yes, this way of life is endangered, but it is also very much alive. It’s just hard to detect with untrained eyes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EVenice’s eye-catching buildings may be swathed in opulence: think of the shimmering mosaics that line Saint Mark’s Basilica; the lace-like Gothic stonework of the Ca’ d’Oro; or the chic yellow marble that clads the church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli. But when dressing themselves, Venetians would rather blend into the crowd than pop out of it, peacock-like, according to Venetian-born Sebastian Fagarazzi, co-founder of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fveneziaautentica.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVenezia Autentica\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a social business devoted to preserving the city’s living culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“They tend to wear neutral colours and eschew anything too shiny,” Fagarazzi said, adding that comfortable flats are a human right extended to all sexes, and, unlike other Italians, Venetians tend to frown on conspicuous designer labels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis penchant for personal discretion has ancient roots. The city was likely founded as Goths and Huns ransacked the crumbling Roman Empire in the 5th and 6th Centuries AD. According to legend and the scant historical evidence that remains, the first Venetians were rich merchants from the mainland who hid themselves and their treasure on some worthless-looking mudflats in the Venetian lagoon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETheir descendants went on to build great fortunes on trade secrets – knowing before their rivals where to buy goods cheap and where to sell them dear. Industrial, trade and state secrets were so vital that Venice established the Cancelleria Secreta, or Secret Chancellery, which even the doge, the city's elected leader, could not enter alone. And over the next 1,000 years, they transformed those mudflats into the strange and dazzling capital of a great mercantile empire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Movies portray Venice like this dark labyrinth, the perfect place to commit a crime","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe water-bound geography of their city still reinforces Venetian discretion today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Movies portray Venice like this dark labyrinth, the perfect place to commit a crime,” said Fagarazzi. \"But Venetians know it’s very much the opposite.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere are no cars or trucks, he explained, to drown out indiscreet conversations. There are no woods or hinterland into which to escape. And even the darkest, narrowest back alley can be full of hidden eyes and ears.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We grew up feeling like wherever we went, someone’s \u003Cem\u003Enonna \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eis watching you from behind lace curtains,” said Fagarazzi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrench-born Valeria Duflot, cofounder of Venezia Autentica and Fagarazzi's girlfriend, learned this lesson early in their relationship. While on a solitary walk through the city, she bumped into Fagarazzi’s father. They chatted for a few minutes, and then she continued on her way. When Duflot returned home, she found Fagarazzi chuckling into his mobile phone. A friend had just texted to say that Valeria had been seen chatting with a man who “may or may not” have been Sebastian’s father. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Just thought you should know,” the friend wrote.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Let’s just say, word travels fast here,” Duflot said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190623-the-us-island-that-speaks-elizabethan-english\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere people speak Elizabethan English\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190708-the-city-that-launched-the-publishing-industry\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy the italic font was created\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200409-the-history-of-balconies\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe cultural history of the balcony\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt is easy to understand why, centuries before Covid-19, Venetians wore masks as they went about their daily business. It was the only way to carve out a bit of freedom in a city with little privacy – and a respectable public face was, and still is, jealously guarded. The first mention of Venetian masks dates to the 13th Century, and by the 17th and 18th Centuries, elites wore them so frequently the government had to pass a law restricting their use to just three months a year, from Christmas to the start of Lent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe traditional Venetian disguise, known as a \u003Cem\u003Ebauta\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, disguised much more than the wearer’s visage. A tricorn hat and long, tent-like cape obliterated any trace of the body underneath, and the mask’s jutting nose and mouth even altered the wearer’s voice. Contemporary mask-makers still manufacture \u003Cem\u003Ebautas. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EPutting one on in front of a mirror is an uncanny experience, as you watch all traces of your identity disappear before your very eyes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EExcept during Venice's famous Carnival celebration, such a getup would only serve to attract unwanted attention these days. However, Venetians do don a sort of virtual \u003Cem\u003Ebauta\u003C\u002Fem\u003E that lets other Venetians know when they want to be ignored.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELet’s say you’re having a bad day, for example, and want to remain anonymous through the city. That is no easy task in pedestrian-only streets where you are constantly bumping into friends and neighbours. And to ignore them would be considered rude in highly sociable Venice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe other option? Walk quickly, keep your head down, and when someone greets you, don’t slow down. Just offer a quick, backward-looking \u003Cem\u003Eciao \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eand the flicker of a smile, and keep moving. Even if they see you’re having a bad day, they can pretend that you’re just running late, and everyone saves face.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo evade notice, Venetians even have their own language, which serves as an invisible veil that they can cast over their private world. Called Venexiàn, it is sometimes referred to as a dialect, but many linguists consider it a language in its own right. In his 1909 book Italian Hours, Henry James called Venexiàn “a delightful garrulous language [that] helps them to make Venetian life a long \u003Cem\u003Econversazione\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“This language, with its soft elisions, its odd transpositions, its kindly contempt for consonants and other disagreeables, has in it something peculiarly human and accommodating,” James continued.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJames’ description holds true a century later. Walking in the back streets of the working-class Cannaregio and Castello neighbourhoods, you can still hear the singsong voices of neighbours who stop for a chat or call to each other from across a canal. Even if you don’t understand what they are saying, you will hear what linguists call a “lilting prosodic” cadence – the voice we use when talking to a beloved, or a small child.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs Venice is increasingly overwhelmed by mass tourism, Venexiàn has evolved more and more into an “in-group” language, according to Ronnie Ferguson, professor of Italian at Saint Andrew’s University and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com.au\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FA_Linguistic_History_of_Venice.html?id=mJApAQAAIAAJ&redir_esc=y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Linguistic History of Venice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It has become a badge of identity and also a way to exclude outsiders,” Ferguson said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt makes sense that Venetians want to keep their language exclusive. Historic Venice has fewer than 60,000 residents yet receives up to 30 million visitors annually. Thanks to Venexiàn, a Venetian can walk into a crowded bar or shop and, with a few choice phrases, establish kinship, win more attentive service, and perhaps even score a local’s-only discount on a meal or a glass of wine. In this way, Venexiàn establishes a virtual city within the city – one that only other Venetians can enter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It has become a badge of identity and also a way to exclude outsiders","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnfortunately, even Ferguson, whose mother was a native Venetian, sometimes feels excluded from the language that he knows so intimately.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Venetians are initially thrilled when I speak their language, though also taken aback because they see me as a foreigner,” he explained. “They prefer, after a little while, to switch to Italian. After all, I am not an insider.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAdriano Valeri, a native of Abruzzo, had a similar experience when he trespassed onto Venice’s private language. When he arrived in the city to study painting at the Accademia di Belle Arti di Venezia (Venice Academy of Fine Arts), Venexiàn was as foreign to him as Spanish or French. But he shared a studio with a Venetian-born student who spoke to him only in Venexiàn. Gradually, Valeri began to understand him. Soon he was responding in Venexiàn, and by year’s end he could do so fluently.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThen one evening, the cleaning lady was hustling him out of the building so she could lock up for the day. As usual, he asked her for a few more minutes – but this time in Venexiàn, not Italian.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“She stopped in her tracks, turned to face me, and in a very stern Italian said, ‘You sound \u003Cem\u003Eridiculous \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ewhen you speak in Venexiàn’,” said Valeri. He spent seven more years in Venice, but from then on only spoke Venexiàn in the confines of his shared studio.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese stories may make Venetians sound clannish, but they are also naturally curious and open-minded. “And they do appreciate it when non-Venetians attempt the odd word or phrase,” said Ferguson. Try out classics like \u003Cem\u003Eun’ombra \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(“a glass of wine”), \u003Cem\u003Ebondi \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(“hello”, pronounced “bon-DEE”), and \u003Cem\u003Eper piaser\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (“please”, pronounced “pair pee-ah-SER”).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBecause their city is so thick with tourists, Venetians love to escape to the open waters of the lagoon. Few tourists ever venture here, because gondolas and water taxis are prohibitively expensive. And so the lagoon is one the best places to observe Venetians in their natural habitat, according to Fagarazzi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe lagoon’s tiny, uninhabited islands are especially popular with younger people trying to escape prying parental eyes. A favourite spot, said Fagarazzi, is Poveglia, an island with a decaying psychiatric hospital. Even better is a \u003Cem\u003Ebacan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – one of the lagoon’s sandbars that turn into little islands at low tide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“A bacanis perfect for a picnic during the day,” Fagarazzi said. “Or it can serve as a very mellow bar at night.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese sandy shindigs tend to be small, low-key affairs: some beer and a boom box, with the volume low enough for the distinctive lilt of Venexiàn voices to be heard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd when the tide rises again, all traces of the Venetian party will be washed away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-10-14T21:21:10Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The private language of Venice","headlineShort":"Why outsiders rarely see 'real' Venice","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"45.4046987","longitude":"12.2472506","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although many travellers assume that the “authentic” Venice is long gone, the city still harbours the last remnants of a once-great civilisation, with its own language and customs.","summaryShort":"There’s a virtual city within the city – one that only other Venetians can enter","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:56:21.272247Z","entity":"article","guid":"fd3a6e96-ffc2-4c67-a45b-822e6333ab56","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:39:25.147896Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396258},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape","_id":"62b4203c1f4b7b2e3835a07d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdaniel-stables"],"bodyIntro":"Long thought to be extinct, the dorona grape was prized above all others by wealthy Venetians. Now, its chance rediscovery has ignited a revival in Venice's wine.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the garden of an abandoned monastery, on an ancient cemetery island in the Venetian Lagoon, I found myself surrounded by life. A man bustled past with a wheelbarrow full of brambles; two women sat on the ground, tending to flowering grapevines about to burst into fruit. Preparations were afoot on the Isola di San Michele for Venice's festival season, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lagunanelbicchiere.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELaguna nel Bicchiere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a non-profit organisation devoted to the propagation of Venetian viticulture, would be providing the wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In late spring and early summer there are quite a few festivals,\" explained Colleen McCann, a long-time member of the organisation, as she showed me around San Michele's vineyard. \"Each \u003Cem\u003Ecampo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [city square] has its own different celebration, and on the solstice in June there's three days of festivities at the [Church of San Giovanni in] Bragora. We go there and offer people an \u003Cem\u003Eombra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [small glass] of wine, with the idea being to let the city know about Venice's historical vineyards.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to the vineyard we were standing in on San Michele, Laguna nel Bicchiere currently preserves three others – with origins going back centuries – on the Venetian islands of Giudecca, Sant'Elena and Vignole.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cc4zf3"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELaguna nel Bicchiere is not a commercial operation – they can't sell the wine, only give it away – and the vineyards are staffed by enthusiastic volunteers, motivated purely by the revival and preservation of Venetian winemaking. In the name of research, amid the mighty oak barrels of the monastery's cellar, I tried a couple of ombras myself. The wine was the colour of honey, rich and robust – tangibly imbued, even to my dilettante palate, with the salty taste of the lagoon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVenetian winemaking has a long history that has been documented as far back as 2,500 years ago; until 1100, there was even a vineyard in the Piazza San Marco. That's despite the unique challenges associated with growing vines on islands prone to flooding, where saltwater lies just a few feet beneath the shallow earth. Stressed vines produce the best wines, though, according to winemaking wisdom, and this was certainly seen to be the case for Venice's indigenous \u003Cem\u003Edorona\u003C\u002Fem\u003E grape. The golden wine it produced was prized above all others by wealthy Venetians in centuries past, including by the doges – Venice's powerful heads of state.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Archival research shows that the dorona was considered the doges' favourite variety because of its golden colour and the quality of the wine made from it – balanced and structured,\" said Valeria Necchio, a Venice-based food writer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe dorona's dominance was not to last, however. \"The diseases that spread across Europe at the turn of the last century – phylloxera, powdery and downy mildew – took a huge toll on the overall production and on the economy of the islands that were devoted to winemaking, like Mazzorbo, Sant'Erasmo and Le Vignole,\" said Necchio. \"The workforce was redirected from fieldwork to factory work – for example, in the glass furnaces of Murano.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cc4zds"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe ease of importing wine from more reliable terroirs won out, and dorona wine was replaced on Venetian tables with those from elsewhere in Italy and beyond. In the 1950s and '60s, tourism came to further displace agriculture as the predominant industry in the lagoon. Then, most devastating of all, came a catastrophic high tide in 1966, which caused the worst flood in the history of Venice and drowned the few remaining vines. Venetian wine, along with the dorona grape itself, was a thing extinct, consigned to the history books.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOr so it was thought.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2002, local winemaker Gianluca Bisol was exploring the island of Torcello when he noticed an unusual golden grape gleaming on a gnarled vine in a garden beside the Byzantine Church of Santa Maria Assunta. \"It was an accidental discovery, but when I saw those three dorona plants for the first time, a great emotion came over me,\" said Bisol. \"It was immediately clear to me that they were different from any vines I'd seen before. Nicoletta, who looked after the garden, told me that indeed they were different – a native grape variety from the Venetian Lagoon. I was mesmerised.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnsure if it could be true, Bisol arranged for DNA tests, which confirmed the grapes were indeed the storied dorona.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I learnt more about what I had to face in order to bring back this time-honoured Venetian tradition","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter poring over historical viticultural texts and scouring local vineyards and gardens, Bisol discovered a total of 88 surviving dorona vines on Torcello and the surrounding islands. A key player was Gastone Vio, a farmer on the island of Sant'Erasmo, who provided scores of dorona vines to the Bisol family and whose planting techniques had enabled the survival of his crop through the flood of 1966. \"Thanks to the conversations and exchanges I had with other growers and winemakers working in the lagoon, I learnt more about what I had to face in order to bring back this time-honoured Venetian tradition – viticulture,\" Bisol said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cc4zck"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe learned how the vines needed to be planted far apart, to allow the roots to grow sideways to avoid the saltwater; and how wells had to be dug hundreds of feet deep to reach the fresh water needed to flush the vineyards. Bisol found a medieval monastery on the nearby island of Mazzorbo with a walled vineyard and put to work what he had learned. Ten years and much experimentation later, the first vintage of his \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.venissa.it\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVenissa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E wine was produced.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGianluca's son, Matteo Bisol, now oversees operations at Venissa, and he met me off the boat to show me around Mazzorbo. In contrast to the tumbledown vineyards of San Michele, Venissa is a swanky commercial enterprise – a Michelin-starred restaurant and luxurious lodgings have been added to their portfolio in recent years. However, they share one of Laguna nel Bicchiere's fundamental principles. \"We're really serious about the quality of the wine,\" Matteo told me. \"But for us, it represents something way bigger: bringing back a part of the history of Venice to the lagoon after we almost lost this wine.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe rediscovery of the dorona has ignited a revival in Venetian wine. Laguna nel Bicchiere now grows a mixture of dorona and other, non-indigenous, grapes, and produces mixed-grape wines. Venissa's whites are made with 100% dorona grapes, and their vineyard is the only one dedicated solely to its commercial production. The limitations of the lagoon mean it will always remain a boutique enterprise; the estate produces 3,500 bottles per year, which are sold mainly in the immediate area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVenissa's dorona wine has won acclaim for its full body and bold, dry taste, thought to be very similar – thanks to the dorona grape's unique profile and traditional, organic growing methods – to the wine so prized by the doges. It carries an unmistakable hint of saltiness, and pairs extremely well with the lagoon ingredients served in Venissa's restaurant, like oysters, lavender and Sant'Erasmo honey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cc4z7f"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs we wandered through the vineyards, Matteo pointed out a large canal dug between the vines to rid them of floodwater from the lagoon. Crouching down, he signalled towards some tiny tufts of green, gamely sprouting amid the vines. \"This is a sea herb; this one's samphire; this is \u003Cem\u003Eerba stella \u003C\u002Fem\u003E[buck's horn]. These three grow only in a salt environment. If we move a little bit higher\" – he pointed a few inches to the left – \"here we still see some of the sea plants, but we can also see the margarita [daisy]; this is a mixed area. If we go here, this is the freshwater version: normal land, not salt land, just a few inches away. It's all very stressful for the vine, but it's important for the quality of the wine that the vine needs to struggle. No pain, no gain.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's a great metaphor for the genius of the Venetian people, who were able to create something amazing in a situation that was almost impossible","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat philosophy was tested to its limits this year, which marks another milestone in the dorona grape's proud history of near-extinctions and triumphant resurrections. \"We were very afraid at the beginning of this current season, because the vines are still suffering from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-europe-50452688\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe 2019 high tide\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – the second biggest ever,\" Matteo said. The vines survived – just – but in 2021, they struggled even more than in 2020. \"All plants keep substances in reserve, which they use to survive after difficult years; we didn't know at the beginning of 2022 if the vines would have enough to survive. We were very happy, because the grapes showed us their resilience once again.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVenetian wine is an improbability; but then, so is Venice itself. \"For us, the dorona is a symbol,\" Matteo said. \"Venice is really the struggle of the human being to create a city in the middle of a lagoon. Dorona, in this terroir, in this situation – it's a great metaphor for the genius of the Venetian people, who were able to create something amazing in a situation that was almost impossible.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel's \u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fforgotten-foods\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EForgotten Foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eoffers hope for the world's \"lost\" foods through chefs and purveyors who are bringing them back to life though cooking and cultivation.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fforgotten-foods","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-20T10:15:44Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The resurgence of Venice's prized dorona grape","headlineShort":"The rediscovery of a golden fruit","image":["p0cc4zfy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"45.4858","longitude":"12.4073","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cc4zfy"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200910-florences-wine-portals-from-the-17th-century","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201013-the-private-language-of-venice"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Long thought to be extinct, the dorona grape was prized above all others by wealthy Venetians. Now, its chance rediscovery has ignited a revival in Venice's wine.","summaryShort":"It has a proud history of near-extinctions and triumphant resurrections","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-19T23:18:35.400908Z","entity":"article","guid":"39ffb36a-92b8-4c17-aa60-c9118620653e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-20T01:26:43.789756Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fvenice","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fitaly","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_italy_venice_europe_italy_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396257},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land","_id":"62b420381f4b7b2e4d2753c1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In Bangladesh, natural disasters seem to be the only constant. Living with such unpredictability means that resilience and adaptability have become the nation's default settings.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the highland hinterlands of subtropical Sylhet, a city in north-eastern Bangladesh known for its lush tea gardens, getting to school requires more than just waking up on time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I remember we used to cross a bridge and it got washed away every other year,\" said Dr Monjour Mourshed, professor of sustainable engineering at Cardiff University who grew up in Bangladesh. \"We [the village children] were used to it; we'd just find a different path.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut what's more fascinating than the constantly altering school route is the calmness with which he acknowledged it. Mourshed's experience is the norm, not the exception, as Sylhet's geomorphology is subject to frequent change. \"A mound of land in the floodplain of the Surma River... Sylhet inhabits nature-on-the-move,\" writes Dr \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fsouthasiajournal.net\u002Fauthor\u002Fdavid\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDavid Ludden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, professor of history at New York University and former president of the Association for Asian Studies, in a 2003 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jstor.org\u002Fstable\u002F4414346?read-now=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A76ce3e6e158f309757695ce1a911552c&seq=2#page_scan_tab_contents\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epaper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that underscores the temporal nature of the landscape. \"Tectonic shifts continue to lift the highlands and depress the deepest-flooding 'haor' basins [large, shallow, saucer-shaped depressions]... Thumping earthquakes periodically destabilise water's established pathways.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBangladesh as a whole is \"nature-on-the-move\", its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fearthobservatory.nasa.gov\u002Fworld-of-change\u002FPadmaRiver\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efluid geography\u003C\u002Fa\u003E the result of one of the most dynamic and extensive river networks in the world. The deltaic nation is literally a by-product of the rivers' processes:\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencemag.org\u002Fnews\u002F2018\u002F03\u002Fsea-levels-rise-bangladeshi-islanders-must-decide-between-keeping-water-out-or-letting\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E a giant sandbox\u003C\u002Fa\u003E created by millennia of alluvial deposits by the ever-flowing waters of the mighty Brahmaputra-Jamuna, Padma (the Ganges) and Meghna rivers. Approximately 80% of the nation consists of floodplains, and a new island – Bhasan Char, now \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-55177688\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe controversial home\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of thousands of Rohingya refugees – was formed by enormous loads of Himalayan silt from the Meghna River in the past 20 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWater, and reverence for its creative and destructive powers, is so intrinsic to the nation that the Jatiyo Sangshad Bhaban (the Bangladesh National Parliament building) in Dhaka is surrounded on three sides by an artificially constructed lake as testimony to the country’s riverine beauty. But the stunning monument, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnijhoom.com\u002Fdhaka-tourist-attractions\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea popular attraction\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that has been called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Farchitectuul.com\u002Farchitecture\u002Fnational-assembly-building-of-bangladesh\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eone of the greatest architectural achievements of the 20th Century\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, holds deeper cultural symbolism, according to Khondker Neaz Rahman, who has worked with the Bangladesh government and United Nations Development Programme on urban and regional planning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"In Bangladesh, we see water as a sacred purifying element,\" he said. \"Water purifies you during ablution as a Muslim. If you are Hindu, your house is sprinkled with Ganga water. Buddhists cross a bridge or place a fountain in their space of meditation.\" He explained that crossing over water before entering the supreme legislative body is believed to create a conducive mindset.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWater and nature are inextricable from life in the small but densely populated nation – perhaps understandably so. \"Look out the window when your plane crosses Bangladesh during monsoon,\" urged Rahman, \"You won't see rivers interrupting land. Our country is the space between rivers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd life, it seems, is lived out in the space between extreme events of nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the past three decades, Bangladesh has braved more than 200 natural disasters, by some estimates. Its location at the triangular head of the Bay of Bengal, low-lying topography, susceptibility to tropical cyclones andvulnerability to floods is worsened by population density and rapid urbanisation. Its extreme \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef.org\u002Fpress-releases\u002Fclimate-change-threatens-lives-and-futures-over-19-million-children-bangladesh\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evulnerability to climate change\u003C\u002Fa\u003E creates droughts at one end and erratic rainfall on the other; floodplain sediments may experience liquefaction during earthquakes; and salinity intrusion poses an existential threat to agriculture and available drinking water. Travellers will see navigable waterway networks serving as default (and sometimes, primary) methods of transportation, often crowded with both modern ferries and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20151103-a-romantic-window-into-a-half-drowned-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehistorical paddlewheel steamers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called Rockets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20201201-bangladesh-the-devastating-floods-essential-for-life\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe nation learning to embrace flooding\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200909-a-new-island-of-hope-rising-from-the-indian-ocean\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn island of hope rising from the ocean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160126-the-dutch-war-against-water\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOne country's endless war against water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2020, nearly 40% of the nation was submerged by floods, leaving \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fus-news\u002Fcommentisfree\u002F2020\u002Fsep\u002F22\u002Fclimate-change-action-bangladesh-paris-agreemen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E1.5 million Bangladeshis displaced\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. This was almost in conjunction with super cyclone Amphan in May, which cost an estimated $13.2bn in damage. Sayda Yesmin, chief executive of the NGO Association For Alternative Development (AFAD), works with families in the flood-ravaged district of Kurigram in northern Bangladesh. \"It's the fifth time they've been displaced,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet, they rebuild. Displaced but not disillusioned, Bangladeshis seem to acknowledge – perhaps even appreciate – the duality and complexity of nature. Learning to live in harmony with natural disasters is anancient preoccupation and visitors will be mesmerised by poignant, generations-old \u003Cem\u003EBhatiyali\u003C\u002Fem\u003E folk songs both romanticising and reckoning with life on the river. \"\u003Cem\u003ENaai ko dauriaar paari\u002FShaabdhaane chaalaaiyo maajhi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" (The river has no limits\u002FSteer it most cautiously, boatman) \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.movedbylove.org\u002Fprojects\u002Ftunes\u002F265\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eproclaims\u003C\u002Fa\u003E one of the most iconic songs of the genre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Disasters are always man made,\" said Rahman, \"They can never be natural. When we meddle with nature without understanding it and do something wrong, we blame nature.\" In Bangladesh, there seems to be an innate acknowledgement of the overwhelming power of nature’s force and man’s need to live in tandem with its whims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Approximately 80% of the nation consists of floodplains","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome experts believe Bangladeshis' adaptability and resiliency comes from their unpredictable terrain. \"I have this wild theory: geography shapes people's psyche and ethos,\" said Dr Shafiul Azam Ahmad, water and sanitation specialist at the Water and Sanitation Program, World Bank, from 2000-2008, international consultant for the World Bank from 2015-2016 and now a freelance regional consultant for Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Nepal. \"When one bank of a river tumbles under the surging floodwater, another shoal rises on the opposite side. Flora and fauna revive with new vigour soon after. And so do people. You cannot battle against mighty rivers, but you can be resilient and coexist with nature's vagaries.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERinita Rezwana, a Dhaka resident, spoke with quiet dignity when I called her following the 2020 flood, bracing myself for what I thought would be a tragic exchange. To my surprise, I could almost hear her smile through the phone. \"My people are resilient, Aysha,\" she said, \"Villagers make bridges to stay connected to the mainland. Unused bales of fodder or straw become stepping-stones... There's lots of bamboo, so they build 'stilts' for their homes, [known as] a \u003Cem\u003Emacha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or raised refuge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese resilient houses dotting Bangladesh's terrain, built using materials like timber and bamboo, embody the fluidity of life. They're sometimes built in the wake of a disaster, as the wet season, when materials can be transported by boat, heralds a flurry of building. Until recently, houses had small ponds next to them, the excavated soil used to raise the house and the pond serving as a water reservoir for droughts. And a centuries-old \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=CONfhrASy44\"\u003Efloating-farm-bed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E technique using hyacinth plants increases arable land while allowing farmers to cultivate crops throughout the rainy season. The beds rise and fall with the water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMuch of Bangladeshi resilience is steeped in this understanding of nature being larger than all of us and working with – not against – it. Hasin Jahan, country director of the NGO \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wateraid.org\u002Fbd\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWaterAid\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, explained how communities naturally adapt to confront crises. \"When you know it's inevitable, you plan for it, don't you?\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor example, households typically keep red bricks indoors, which are used to quickly elevate beds during floods. Portable stoves, she said, are popular because families use them to cook when they seek shelter in the highlands. Indigenous methods including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=CGNFBws3B3A\"\u003Epuffing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=n4C0nhHxYqs\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eflattening\u003C\u002Fa\u003E rice and making \u003Cem\u003Eshutki\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (dried fish) preserve energy-dense food for the lean season. And \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.npr.org\u002Fsections\u002Fgoatsandsoda\u002F2018\u002F09\u002F12\u002F646378073\u002Ffloating-schools-make-sure-kids-get-to-class-when-the-water-rises\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efloating schools\u003C\u002Fa\u003E bring education to students' doorsteps when they are marooned in flood-prone areas. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.shidhulai.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esame non-profit organisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that created schools on water operates a fleet of floating libraries and clinics. Despite being one of the most vulnerable nations, it's one of the most resourceful and resilient, as evidenced by a finding from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ufz.de\u002Fexport\u002Fdata\u002F2\u002F80332_Akter_and_Mallick_2013_webversion.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eresearch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by the Helmholtz Centre for Environmental Research-UFZ in Germany that explores the nexus between vulnerability, poverty and resilience in Bangladesh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Bangladeshi resilience isn't stoicism and perennially rebuilding alone. Robust community-led disaster response mechanisms are emblematic of Bangladesh \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fsnnetwork.org\u002Fsites\u002Fdefault\u002Ffiles\u002Fdfid_defining_disaster_resilience.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebouncing back better\u003C\u002Fa\u003E post-disaster. Since the 1970s, Mourshed explained, the nation has invested heavily in efficient early warning systems that are socially, not technologically, driven. \"It's the imam in the mosque, the school headmaster, the local government – authority figures the community trusts – who'll fan out on bicycles, rickshaws or even on foot, often with battery-operated megaphones,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Essentially, resilience is a function of time,\" continued Mourshed. He explained that schools in Bangladesh, which are regularly converted to cyclone shelters, are wonderful examples of resilient structures because the building is swiftly back in use and multiple uses for the same structure increase the return on investment. And when the shelter is the children's school, families already know the quickest route to reach it. \"It's like an emergency response drill every day,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMourshed recently reviewed a common resilience plan for Bangladesh and noticed modern innovation is now being integrated with indigenous knowledge. \"They're using more durable materials like RCC [reinforced cement concrete]; the structure may survive even if the partitions get blown away,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut artificially building resilience requires striking an elusive balance, he cautioned. For instance, a tin roof may provide protection from cyclones but increase temperatures on the inside, whereas traditional thatched roofs have \u003Cspan\u003Ehigher thermal performance\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E. \"With imminent global warming, infrastructure needs to be designed not just for today, but for the future,\" he said, \"And indigenous knowledge must be embedded.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps, then, the entrenched Bangladeshi tradition of designing life in harmony with the cadences of nature is ahead of its time. Disruption has been and still is so normal that Mourshed's school calendar reflected it. \"We had school holidays around the floods to minimise loss [of school days]. We called it the fruits and harvest break,\" he said, \"But it wasn't just summer break. It was a chance to enjoy nature's bounty.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd Bangladesh knows, nature's bounty comes in many forms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-02-22T20:24:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A tenacious nation built on shape-shifting land","headlineShort":"A nation submerged under endless water","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Bangladesh, natural disasters seem to be the only constant. Living with such unpredictability means that resilience and adaptability have become the nation's default settings.","summaryShort":"In 2020, nearly 40% of the nation was submerged by floods","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:01:58.766601Z","entity":"article","guid":"48e8747c-c3d5-4a87-8729-614a4a2659ca","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:23:07.562701Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396259},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats","_id":"62b4203e1f4b7b2e4b29b16b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Each year, approximately 30 people are killed by tigers in the Sundarbans - so why do locals revere rather than fear these killer cats?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"In 23 June 1984, I was attacked.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPhoni Gyen took a seat on a dock overlooking the still waterways of the Sundarbans, a low-lying archipelago in the Ganges Delta, and settled quickly into his gory sermon. A wispy grey hairline retreated from a scarred, sun-dyed face, like a litter-choked river exposing a dry, cracked riverbed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We’d spent the morning fishing,” he said, his small audience fidgeting in the fierce Bengal sun. “I was on the riverbank when I heard a noise coming from the trees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I tried to run, but before I could move it was on top of me.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA tiger had pounced on Gyen from a nearby palm tree, pinning him to the ground. A suffocating paw compressed his chest and razor-sharp claws tore at his face.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I was sure I was going to die.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EArmed with just a stick, someone from Gyen’s fishing party jumped from their boat and attempted to unclasp the fierce predator.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The tiger looked at him,” Gyen continued, mopping perspiration from his face, “then it jumped off me, took this man in its jaws and disappeared into the forest.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I was sure I was going to die.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETigers are a startlingly common hazard for the people of the Sundarbans, located on the border between southern Bangladesh and the Indian state of West Bengal. Here, a resilient community has made their home among the islands of thick mangrove forests, a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F452\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage Site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that’s home to a large population of Bengal tigers, with an estimated 150 big cats active in the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI could see the scars from this unlikely domestic arrangement among the small crowd of locals who had gathered with me on the outskirts of Dayapur Village, the entry point to the Sundarbans, to hear Gyen’s harrowing tale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESitting next to me was Niranjan, who witnessed a tiger kill his father when he was just 11 years old. Next to him, staring unblinking through bloodshot eyes, was Sunil, who watched a tiger drag his wife from their fishing boat and carry her into the forest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Saptarshi Mondal, a Sundarbans forest guide tasked with helping me explore the relationship between the area’s residents and tigers while simultaneously keeping me from the jaws of one, climate change is heightening the issue, depleting the animal’s traditional food source.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Already two or three islands are underwater,” he said. “So there is less and less grassland for deer and wild boar [the tigers’ primary food source].”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EConsequently, humans, especially fishermen who stray deep into the forest in search of fresh fishing spots, are a good substitute for the tiger.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis historical conflict should foster resentment towards the big cats, yet when I suggested as much to Gyen and his audience, the response was somewhere between bewilderment and mild outrage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESeeing my confusion, Saptarshi gestured for us to leave; suggesting we talk with someone who could help me understand this dichotomy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe trudged into the island’s interior, following a scattered brick path past lakes and through paddy fields to a solitary wooden hut. Outside, Kaushalya Mondal, a so-called tiger widow, sat alone in front of a small cooking fire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“My husband was a fisherman,” Kaushalya explained, two fogged eyes fixated on a bubbling pot of rice. “We were fishing together last year deep inside the jungle when the tiger attacked. It went straight for my husband, pulling him under the water. It carried him into the forest and within a few seconds they were gone. I couldn’t do anything.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHer anguish evident, I asked Kaushalya if she feels animosity towards the creature that took her husband.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I do not blame the tiger,” she said. “It was our fault. We went in front of the tiger, not the other way around. I still worship Dakshin Rai.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I do not blame the tiger... It was our fault.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDakshin Rai, known colloquially as the tiger god, is a revered deity in the Sundarbans, who, along with the forest guardian, Bon Bibi, is said to protect all of the region’s inhabitants. Before venturing deep into the jungle, honey collectors and fishermen make offerings at one of the deity’s many shrines, hoping to return safely.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough this reverence towards tigers may be rooted in religious superstition, there is a practical element too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The Sundarbans needs its tigers,” Saptarshi said, as we walked briskly back towards the port; light fading, my fear of a fatal tiger attack growing. “Otherwise the forest will not survive.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe name Sundarbans is said to derive from the endangered sundari tree, a species of mangrove that flourishes within the region. Its hard and fine-grained timber is a desirable material for high-end wood products, including furniture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Without tigers [and the government’s enforced protection of their habitat], woodcutters will come and cut down the forest,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe government’s dedication to preserving the tiger’s homeland also protects the Sundarbans from development, and, increasingly, provides an income through tiger-based tourism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The forest gives these people a lot of things,” Saptarshi continued. “It actively combats rising water and acts as a barrier against tsunami and cyclones [which are prevalent in the Bay of Bengal].”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis is why, despite seeing friends and relatives maimed before their eyes, the people of the Sundarbans do not hate tigers.They know their fate is ultimately tied to the killer cats: the tigers protect the forest and the forest protects the people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter generations of sharing their home with fearsome man-eaters, you’d be forgiven for believing there is nothing that scares these steely communities. But, unfortunately, you’d be wrong.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen Saptarshi and I reached the dock from where the ferry departs to the mainland, the sun stretched lazily towards the water while wind-stirred trees nodded their approval. Nearby, Gyen, alone now, devotedly swept the village’s shrine to Dakshin Rai, for which he was appointed caretaker following his retirement from fishing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAn ominous low rumble shattered the serene scene as a monstrous freighter ploughed into view through the Sundarbans’ silent waters. Plumes of acrid smoke leaked from the tanker, staining the pink-hued sky a molten brown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn late 2016, Bangladesh commenced construction of the country’s largest coal-power station just 65km upstream of the Sundarbans forest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERampal Coal Power Station has been met with universal condemnation by environmental organisations, including Unesco, who labelled it a “serious threat” to the Sundarbans ecosystem.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe organisation’s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Fdocuments\u002F148097\"\u003Edetailed report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E claims pollution from coal ash and waste water, as well as increased shipping and dredging, will accelerate the effects of climate change in the delicate region and cause “irreversible damage”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDr Punarbasu Chaudhuri, head of environmental sciences at Calcutta University, 70km north of the Sundarbans, agrees with Unesco’s prognosis, and worries about the potential widespread implications of the plant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“About 2.5 million people are dependent on the mangroves of this region for their livelihood,” he said. “They, the tigers, the vegetation and all animals that rely on the area will suffer significantly if the ecosystem is permanently damaged. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough Bangladesh government officials maintain the plant will have \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.thedailystar.net\u002Ffrontpage\u002Frampal-plant-wont-harm-sundarbans-1297756\"\u003Eno detrimental effects\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on the forest, both Chaudhuri and Unesco conclude that the project should be moved or scrapped completely.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs I boarded the boat back to the mainland, I took one last look at Gyen, now sitting silently on the steps of the shrine. Behind him, a statue of Dakshin Rai snarled eternally, frozen on the cusp of another kill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile it may be a struggle to fathom how a community can revere a creature that brings such suffering to its people, in many ways it is very apt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Sundarban’s tigers, though hazardous, ultimately protect the people’s homeland. Humans on the other hand could soon be responsible for its demise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat’s more frightening than a man-eating tiger?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=tvl.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called “If You Only Read 6 Things This Week”. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital, Travel and Autos, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats-16"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-02-02T14:50:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"An archipelago of killer cats","headlineShort":"An archipelago of killer cats","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Each year, approximately 30 people are killed by tigers in the Sundarbans - so why do locals revere rather than fear these killer cats?","summaryShort":"Generations have shared their home with the fearsome man-eaters","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T22:55:48.988371Z","entity":"article","guid":"1d0ab8f4-1688-4bfb-99ab-1ebf255ad5ed","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:01:47.325269Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396259},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b2e3b5775f2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"These prawn-topped lentil fritters are beloved throughout Sri Lanka, managing to bring together locals across ethnicities, religion and class.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the train pulled into Peradeniya Junction station in central Sri Lanka, the man sitting opposite me leapt out of his seat and leaned out of the window, placing his thumb and forefinger in his mouth and whistling loudly. A \u003Cem\u003Evade\u003C\u002Fem\u003E seller soon appeared outside, removed a basket from the top of his head and handed it to the passenger. The man quickly pulled out a fragrant fritter along with a small bag of fiery sambol, leaving money behind, and then passed the basket to other hungry passengers, who did the same before returning the basket back to the seller through the window.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the train chugged away, everyone settled back in to their seats and contentedly crunched on what I'd later learn were \u003Cem\u003Eisso vade\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: lentil patties topped with fresh prawns and deep-fried to create one of the most delicious street foods you could ever find on an island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIsso (prawn) vade (pattie) are beloved throughout Sri Lanka, and their popularity can perhaps be attributed to their deeply familiar and simple ingredients: lentils and prawns, along with onions and curry leaves. Topped with a spicy sambol – made of chopped onions, tomatoes, green chillies and lime juice – plus chilli sauce for extra punch, each fritter has the perfect balance of crispy texture, zesty aroma and spicy flavour. And at Rs 50 to 70 (12p to 18p) each, they are an inexpensive, tasty treat for the masses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe most famous isso vade are sold from carts along Galle Face, a seafront promenade in Colombo. Each evening, when the gentle breeze, which has travelled for miles over the Indian Ocean, finally encounters land and cools the city, thousands gather here to spend time with family and friends. They walk up and down the promenade, sizing up each isso vade seller to decide which one has the best offering – usually the one with the largest crowd.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERashintha Rodrigo, co-owner of UK's Sri Lankan street food restaurant chain \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thecoconut-tree.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Coconut Tree\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, reminisces about eating isso vade on Galle Face. \"I'd go to the kite festivals on Galle Face with friends, and we always ate isso vade together. No matter how much you ate them, they never lost their novelty. I think that's because no one makes isso vade at home. They are in every sense, a street food; you only buy them outside.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough isso vade is now sold at every beach, seafront, train station or public space where people might gather, the much-loved street food has humble beginnings that tell a larger story about Sri Lanka's history and culinary culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Chef Publis Silva of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mountlaviniahotel.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMount Lavinia Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, lentil vade (sans prawns) were introduced to Sri Lanka from southern India. This, he says, likely happened during the time Sri Lanka was under British rule, between 1796 and 1948, and South Indian labourers were brought over to work on tea plantations. These workers settled in the mountainous Central Highlands and established small settlements that would later be identified as the Hill Country Tamil community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESri Lankan food blogger \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fchannel\u002FUCVz1bXiY1pz6Fz_Osm0YYBA\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cspan\u003EAnoma Wijetunga\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E agrees. Vade, she explained, is traditionally made of ground masoor dal (red lentils), which doesn't grow in Sri Lanka but in India; therefore, this is a food which most certainly crossed the ocean to arrive in Sri Lanka.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Workers who arrived from South India only ever used dal when making vade,\" Wijetunga said. \"They never use prawns. And that is how this community still makes them. As for how they spread to the rest of the island, I think it might have been when the men folk began selling them on the trains. Of course, that too is something that came over from India and still happens there to this day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJesmin Arumugam, who grew up in the Hill Country and is central team manager at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftealeaftrust.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Tea Leaf Trust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an educational organisation for young people in Sri Lankan tea estates, remembers her mother making vade at home during every Hindu festival over the years. \"The times that she made isso vade, we'd always eat it with a green chilli chutney and a cup of very sweet milk tea,\" she reminisced fondly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Silva, however, what makes isso vade unique to Sri Lanka is the addition of green chillies and curry leaves (\u003Cem\u003Ekarapincha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) into the ground lentil mix. Although karapincha grows in India, Sri Lankan cookery incorporates the leaves into almost every savoury dish, creating a distinctive, zesty aroma. The addition of freshwater prawns to the vade also made sense. Although they are less common than sea water prawns, they are thicker and withstand deep frying much better. A prawn topping also made the vade more visually appealing than a plain lentil patty. The use of chillies, said Silva, is mostly for colour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Sri Lankans have always adapted every foreign food that was ever introduced to the island","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Sri Lankans have always adapted every foreign food that was ever introduced to the island. We like to stamp our own identity on them,\" he said. \"And we are a nation that eats with our hands, so the gritty texture of isso vade [from the lentils] is very pleasing to Sri Lankans. We also have a culture of sitting outside for early evening chats with friends and neighbours, and vade gave us something to chew on as we did so.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, Sri Lanka is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-61028138\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ein the midst of an economic crisis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. With food prices soaring and sellers unable to pass on the costs to customers who will not pay more than a few rupees for street food, many isso vade sellers have seen their profits decrease. While most will turn to alternative means of income, some vow to remain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMani, a vade seller on Galle Face, has watched the transformation of Colombo from small city to restless capital from behind his street food cart since 1965. \"I was just 13 years old when I started making isso vade at home and selling them to support my family. Now, once expenses are considered, we make only a small profit each month. But I would never consider another trade because if I'm not on Galle Face, my customers will not eat anywhere else. This is something to be proud of,\" he told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI myself have beloved memories of biting through the crispy exterior, the soft, gritty centre tasting of well-seasoned lentils with the delectable flavour of chopped onions, curry leaves and savoury prawns fried in their shells. It's incredible to think that vade, in its original form, crossed an ocean with an immigrant community to arrive on this tiny island far from home. No one could have known that this spicy snack would go on to unite Sri Lankans across ethnicities, religion and class as they sit with friends to watch the sun go down.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf this tasty snack can't survive the enomic crisis, it is not merely a street food and livelihoods that are threatened, but two centuries of history will be lost alongside it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-05-02T10:25:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Isso vade: The spicy snack that unites Sri Lanka","headlineShort":"The fritters that are sacrilege to shun","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"6.927079","longitude":"79.861244","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"These prawn-topped lentil fritters are beloved throughout Sri Lanka, managing to bring together locals across ethnicities, religion and class.","summaryShort":"\"One of the most delicious street foods you could ever find on an island\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-01T21:25:36.849393Z","entity":"article","guid":"4016a594-f418-432c-9e0f-cffae590dbdc","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-04T05:23:45.343348Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396259},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b294052791a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Faysha-imtiaz"],"bodyIntro":"Combining two of Bangladesh's greatest loves – rice and spice – jhal muri is a pungent snack prepared with drama by street-side vendors with cult followings.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor cookbook author Saira Hamilton, a childhood visit to see her grandmother was never as simple as jumping in a car. Born to first-generation immigrants in the UK, she began each summer with a flight from Wales to Dhaka. The remainder of her complex journey to Dampara, a village nestled in the verdant paddy field-dotted Kishoreganj district in central Bangladesh, was a watery blur – involving travel by train, bus, rickshaw and flat-bottomed boat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmid this latticework of waterways, docks, stations and dusty roads, one immutable highlight stands out for Hamilton: the \u003Cem\u003Ejhal muri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E vendor, his arrival preceded by the sound of clanging steel trays and shakers, and the delicious food she'd go on to devour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the nation's most iconic snacks, jhal muri is a spiced puffed rice salad (\u003Cem\u003Ejhal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E means hot in Bangla; and \u003Cem\u003Emuri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, also called \u003Cem\u003Emoori\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or \u003Cem\u003Emurmura\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, is puffed rice) that combines two of Bangladesh's greatest loves: rice and spice. (The third, of course, is fish.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think it's fair to say jhal muri is a street-food classic found all over Bangladesh. It's very vibrant in taste and truly speaks to the predominant palate,\" said Hamilton. In her cookbook\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com.au\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FMy_Bangladesh_Kitchen.html?id=FRaLtwEACAAJ&redir_esc=y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMy Bangladesh Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the humble snack stands proudly as the first recipe – a quintessential Bangladeshi culinary experience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIts core ingredient is muri, which is traditionally made by \"frying\" rice in hot salt or sand, and is firmly rooted in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.academia.edu\u002F32445513\u002FTraditional_Food_Culture_and_Food_Security_in_Bangladesh\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etapestry of food cultures in Bangladesh\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, featuring prominently in both daily life and auspicious occasions such as the \u003Cem\u003Eiftar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E meal during Ramadan for Muslims or the Puja period during Durgapuja for Hindus\u003Cstrong\u003E.\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdyx42"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut the bland muri gets the signature Bangladeshi fireworks – the \"jhal\" in jhal muri – from a smorgasbord of explosively hot and sour ingredients. Green chillies, red chilli powder and \u003Cem\u003Echanna chur \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a popular spicy snack mixture with dried and fried lentils, peanuts and chickpeas) provide nose-watering heat. Table salt, \u003Cem\u003Esendha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E namak (Himalayan pink salt) or \u003Cem\u003Ekaala namak \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(kiln-fired, sulphurous black salt) are used – sometimes all together – for seasoning, supplemented copiously with lime juice and tamarind water to bring the mouth-puckering sharp, tangy flavour. Mint, coriander and finely diced onions, along with cucumbers (and, occasionally, tomatoes), give jhal muri its crisp tartness and garden-fresh aroma. And of course, a generous drizzle of Bangladesh's omnipresent mustard oil brings everything together.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ubiquity of the dish's ingredients means that similar creations can be found in other places. \u003Cem\u003EBhel puri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Mumbai, Orissa and Assam, \u003Cem\u003Echurumuri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Karnataka and \u003Cem\u003Echatpatay\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Nepal all closely resemble the beloved Bangladeshi snack.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, jhal muri is a signature street food of West Bengal, says food writer and historian, Pritha Sen. “The origin of jhal muri is in Calcutta started by Bihari migrant workers when the metropolis was growing as the capital of the British Empire in the subcontinent and in Undivided Bengal. It was probably carried to Bangladesh by Muslim Bihari settlers who moved post-Partition – in 1947.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat sets Bangladeshi jhal muri apart, however, is the ratio of wet to dry ingredients (bhel puri, for instance, may be wetter and have more yellow chickpeas) and Bangladesh's enthusiastic embrace of intense spice. \"It's heat you feel in your nose, not your throat,\" Hamilton said. Some locals believe the piquancy triggers a sweating response and helps them cool off in sweltering humidity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Rice in Bangladesh is used for absolutely everything – desserts, breakfast, lunch and dinner","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDue to muri's long history in South Asian cuisine, it's difficult to pinpoint the exact moment muri was first drenched in such fiery and titillating flavours and took on a life of its own in Bangladesh. Muri has somehow just always existed and been consumed in different variations. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"[The] point is, muri has been a staple in Bengal from time immemorial, often acting as a [preserved] substitute for rice [during lean periods],\"explained Sen. Hamilton agreed: \"Rice in Bangladesh is used for absolutely everything – desserts, breakfast, lunch and dinner. I imagine one day someone wondered what else we could use it for.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdyx3y"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat's the kind of inventiveness and pragmatism jhal muri embodies. Packed in a newspaper cone called a \u003Cem\u003Ethonga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and mixed in a steel shaker or a modest plastic \u003Cem\u003Emugga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a small pitcher), it's generally sold at the affordable price of 10-20 taka (£0.09-£0.19). Thongas are both portable and practical – used both as a bowl and later as a napkin to wipe spicy seasonings off one's hand. Rectangles of cardboard or magazine paper are usually supplied as a scoop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor many Bangladeshis though, part of the charm of visiting the jhal muri-\u003Cem\u003Ewallah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (vendor) lies in the theatricality. \"Ingredients are put into a steel shaker with a lid, and then dramatically shaken and banged on the tray until they're mixed together, with all the aplomb of a fancy mixologist in a cocktail bar,\" Hamilton said. Since single portions are made to order, \"There's [also] this sense of it being a personal gesture, like, 'I've done this just for you',\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome muri-wallahs command an almost cult-like following due to their signature spice blend, with everyone from students to office workers queuing up for a fix. Arnab Mitra, an Indian entrepreneur and extensive traveller, has sampled variants of the snack in more than 20 cities across four countries. He says jhal muri in Bangladesh's second largest city, Chittagong, is the spiciest – and noticed a unique phenomenon he terms \"the muri-wallah's swag\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"An established muri-wallah is famous. And he knows it,\" said Mitra. \"Typically, he'll be wearing a \u003Cem\u003Elungi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (an Indian men's sarong). He may be shirtless or clad in a vest, yet he has a certain self-assuredness about him, as if he's saying, 'Here I am, this simple dude. But you will stop your Mercedes and come eat from me, because I can turn simple ingredients into magic.'\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdyx3m"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBritish chef Angus Denoon Duncan agrees. Cheap ingredients are treated with care, attention and imbued with a little mystery, he said, and with that mystery comes its unique charm. \"I'm interested in the ways to make good food cheap, I love the beauty of an action perfected over years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECaptivated by the snack during multiple visits to Kolkata to film \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=5QI6oA3-F38&feature=youtu.be\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea video\u003C\u002Fa\u003E about South Asian street food, Duncan has been selling jhal muri in England for the past 17 years, using the social media handle \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fjhalmuriexpress\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ejhalmuriexpress\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Never have I seen food break down boundaries like jhal muri","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe reason he started was prosaic: \"I was living on the road at the time and needed a business I could run from the boot of a car or on public transport. It [also had to be] cheap and easy to produce.\" But the reason he continued speaks to the DNA of the snack itself. \"Never have I seen food break down boundaries like jhal muri. The first time I made it in public, at a market in rural UK with a wide demographic of different people, everybody got it,\" he said, adding that jhal muri is, \"food made fresh and brought to life in front of one's eyes on the level playing field of a street corner.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStill, it's difficult to re-create the Bangladeshi street food experience in London as there's a specific sense of community and solidarity in the way jhal muri is consumed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's great to eat jhal muri while hanging out with friends, because its sour, spicy and sweet taste with crispy feel creates an exuberant atmosphere,\" said Dhaka-based architect Nishat Tasnim Auroni, who notes that the easy recipe and accessible ingredients mean many households also prepare it at home to enjoy together.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdyx3c"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDr Latiful Bari, a food safety and hygiene expert from the University of Dhaka, says love for the snack is etched deeply in the country's collective identity: \"Ask somebody what they'd like to have with their evening cup of tea, and if the answer is jhal muri, understand they are Bengali nationals.\"\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocals also have developed unspoken rules of etiquette. Using a spoon is a cardinal sin and reveals amateur status, said Mitra. And, according to Hamilton, the gesture of tipping a small heap of jhal muri into one's hands before tossing it into the mouth with fluidity, precision and a bit of abandon is hard for a non-Bangladeshi to master.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land\"\u003Eits resilient people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it's gutsy and spirited food. Because when the muri-wallah gruffly asks, \"How much jhal?\", it's as if he's asking whether one is game enough, daring enough – Bengali enough – to handle it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile some vendors experiment with upscale ingredients, such as boiled egg or quail, for purists, jhal muri will always be a robust vegetarian (and vegan) dish, where unassuming ingredients are turned into a sublime and satiating symphony. \"I think [this gentrification] is a fad,\" said Mitra. \"Jhal muri is eclectic, not some homogenous, Michelin star chef-approved mixture. In authentic jhal muri, no two bites – even from the same thonga – are the same. [Expensive meat add-ons] just don't have that element of thrill.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, Bangladesh's spicy snack is an ode to ingenuity and finding mystique in the mundane through an artful balancing act. Too dry, and it tastes like cardboard, said Hamilton, and if you make it ahead of time or get the liquid ratio wrong, it runs the risk of becoming stale or soggy. But done right? \"It's a whole experience in itself,\" she said, \"You get a little bit of everything.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fasia-fast-food"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-17T10:37:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Bangladesh's fiery, inventive spin on rice","headlineShort":"The street food with a cult following","image":["p0cdyx46"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"23.6850","longitude":"90.3563","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cdyx3y"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210221-a-tenacious-nation-built-on-shape-shifting-land","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170131-an-archipelago-of-killer-cats","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220501-isso-vade-the-spicy-snack-that-unites-sri-lanka"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Combining two of Bangladesh's greatest loves – rice and spice – jhal muri is a pungent snack prepared with drama by street-side vendors with cult followings.","summaryShort":"\"An established muri-wallah is famous. And he knows it.\"","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-16T22:38:29.699048Z","entity":"article","guid":"02d6e40c-1b2f-4a18-973d-cef22e92bde0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-04T05:26:50.007059Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbangladesh","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_bangladesh_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396258},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town","_id":"62b420371f4b7b292a256955","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The sleepy Sussex market town of East Grinstead has gained a reputation in recent decades as a hotbed for offbeat religious activity.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt has been described as Britain’s strangest town and the real-life answer to Twin Peaks. But East Grinstead hardly exudes a sense of dreamlike Lynchian terror. Elegant 14th-Century buildings house bookshops and jewellers; butchers hawk burgers and sausages from market stalls; and friends cluster cheerfully outside cafes. The scene is one of pleasant gentility. It all seems so… normal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBeneath the surface, however, this otherwise unremarkable Sussex market town is charged with an unlikely religious zeal. A disproportionate number of spiritual organisations have made their home here; some are ancient and some modern, some orthodox and others unconventional. One group in particular has generated more column inches than the rest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a forested hill to the south-west of town sits Saint Hill Manor, an attractive country house built in 1792 in the Late Georgian style. Saint Hill has had a colourful life, serving variously as the headquarters of a Christian mission and the home of the Maharaja of Jaipur. When the latter moved out in 1959, Saint Hill’s most famous inhabitant moved in: L Ron Hubbard, science fiction writer and founder of the Church of Scientology.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe estate served not only as Hubbard’s home but as Scientology’s worldwide headquarters until 1967. It is still owned by the Church, and, as is often the case in its enclaves around the world, zany stories abound. Tom Cruise has visited several times, and is even said to have chosen a wing of Saint Hill Manor as his lockdown sanctuary during the coronavirus pandemic, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tatler.com\u002Farticle\u002Finside-scientologys-swanky-london-hq\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eas reported in Tatler\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Fellow A-list Scientologist John Travolta \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hollywoodreporter.com\u002Fnews\u002Fjohn-travolta-snubbed-at-uk-251865\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehit the headlines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2011 when he tried – unsuccessfully – to book a table for his entourage at the local branch of Kentucky Fried Chicken. In 2013, local Sussex newspaper The Argus \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theargus.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002F10479936.ufos-over-scientology-headquarters-in-east-grinstead\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereported\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that three airline pilots saw “two saucer shaped silver discs” hovering in the vicinity of Saint Hill – apparently unconnected to nearby Gatwick Airport, where the pilots were coming in to land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s not just Scientology making waves here, though. The mysterious Rosicrucians, a secret society that claims to guard a body of esoteric truths about the universe, maintain a palatial mock-Tudor lodge at nearby Greenwood Gate; while Opus Dei, a Catholic sect famous for wearing spiked chains and hair-shirts as an act of devotional self-mortification, host self-improvement retreats at the attractive Wickenden Manor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELess unconventional, the British home of Mormonism lies a few miles north of East Grinstead at the impressive \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.churchofjesuschrist.org\u002Ftemples\u002Fdetails\u002Flondon-england-temple?lang=eng\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELondon England Temple\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, while Jehovah’s Witnesses and Christian Scientists have also set up shop in town.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlternative ways of thinking start early in life around here. The Michael Hall School in nearby Forest Row was the first example in Britain of a Waldorf school, where pupils are taught based on Rudolf Steiner’s spiritual concept of anthroposophy, with a curriculum that focuses on emotional and artistic development. The area’s bevy of biodynamic farms, which use progressive composting preparations such as cow’s skulls stuffed with oak bark and quartz, are also based on Steiner’s teachings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA tiny 'nation' of British eccentricity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe eerie remains of a drowned village\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200722-britains-newly-discovered-ancient-sites\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBritain's newly discovered ancient sites\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo the south of East Grinstead, a Battenberg blanket of neat green fields gives way to the hazel, chestnut and oak trees of Ashdown Forest. The forest is most famous as the inspiration and setting for Winnie the Pooh, whose creator, AA Milne, lived on the northern fringes of the woods and would walk there with his son, Christopher Robin. Milne’s legacy lives on here – \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gps-routes.co.uk\u002Froutes\u002Fhome.nsf\u002FRoutesLinksWalks\u002Fpooh-sticks-bridge-walking-route\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPooh Sticks Bridge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for example, runs across a stream in the woods and is the place where the author invented the eponymous \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-34055084\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPoohsticks game\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with his son – but Ashdown Forest harbours stranger, more intriguing secrets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhisperings of Wiccan rituals and druid gatherings in the woods are commonplace. “Druids and other pagans are sometimes to be found within the henges of the Scots pine groves at the top of the forest,” said Richard Creightmore, a geomancer who divines spiritual meaning from earth markings in Ashdown Forest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe forest’s most bizarre occult episode, however, is rumoured to have taken place during World War Two, featuring a merry cast of warlocks, spies and Nazis. Cecil Williamson was a British screenwriter and prominent pagan who was hired by MI6 in 1938 to find out more about the apparent interest of senior Nazis in the occult. He conceived a propaganda exercise called Operation Mistletoe, which aimed to take advantage of the Nazis’ increasing fixation on the dark arts by staging a fake occult ritual in Ashdown Forest. The hope was that it would damage Nazi morale if they believed that supernatural forces were working against them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s east England’s answer to Glastonbury","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe ceremony is said to have involved berobed Canadian soldiers dancing around burning effigies of Hitler and his colleagues. If it sounds like something from a James Bond film, perhaps that’s no surprise; according to biographer Mark Simmons, Ian Fleming was said to have been in attendance. While the exact details of Williamson’s ceremony may never be known, it is known that Ashdown Forest was the site of Aspidistra, a radio mast used to transmit this kind of wartime “black propaganda”. The site is now a Sussex Police training facility.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo what is it about East Grinstead? Some of the locals will tell you the answer lies beneath the earth in the form of powerful \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20191104-the-ancient-network-that-links-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eley lines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and their intersection with the Greenwich Meridian, which passes through the centre of town. “We lie here at the intersection of the High Weald sandstone ridges – whose quartz crystalline structure enhances cognitive clarity – with the Greenwich Meridian,” said Creightmore. “Lots of good stuff has happened all along the meridian, as well as in the High Weald,” he added, “but the esoteric spirituality appears to be most concentrated at the conjunction of both, in the hub around East Grinstead and Forest Row.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven for the more mystically minded, though, this theory can be a little hard to swallow. Davina MacKail, a teacher of shamanism and feng shui, told me: “I believe the energy surrounding the East Grinstead area is enhanced by the ancient woodlands. There has been much reported about its plethora of ley lines, but I think the real reason for its attraction to weird religious sects has more to do with its close proximity to London, and the fact that since the Scientologists moved in in the late 1960s people accept alternative lifestyles here. It’s east England’s answer to Glastonbury. People can carry out their alternative practices in peace and find support within the local community.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOther locals agree that the answer is more prosaic. “East Grinstead has traditionally been a meeting place over the millennia,” said the town’s tourism officer Dawn Spalding. “People met here, travelling along droving lanes to sell their wares. It was seen as quite a safe place to be.” Father Gaskin, of the Church of Our Lady and St Peter, explained it in even less romantic terms in the 1994 documentary \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=EnIRDDXvWCg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy East Grinstead?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, claiming: “People have gravitated to this part of the world because of Gatwick Airport.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECertainly the area’s proximity to London, coupled with its abundance of stately homes with far-reaching views over the High Weald, makes it attractive to moneyed types of a bohemian bent. Saint Hill Manor, the reason the Scientologists came in the first place, is just one of these; another is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hammerwoodpark.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHammerwood Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the east of town, an elegantly crumbling Greek Revival pile once owned by Led Zeppelin. The comparison to Glastonbury’s boho brand of gentrification is apt; the fact that the area around East Grinstead and Forest Row is celebrated both for its biodynamic farms and its world-class golf course rather sums up the spirit of the place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne episode in East Grinstead’s history, though, predates the arrival of L Ron Hubbard and sheds more light on the town’s character than any wild theory about unconventional religions and supernatural energy. During World War Two, the town’s Queen Victoria Hospital was the site of pioneering plastic surgery by Sir Archibald McIndoe, a New Zealander employed by the Royal Air Force. McIndoe’s innovations in the field of cosmetic surgery (his speciality was the “McIndoe nose”) became foundational to the field and gave a new lease of life to dozens of airmen who had suffered horrific burns and other injuries in combat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They were told not to stare and it has become ingrained","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHis medical expertise, however, was matched by an understanding of his patients’ mental health that was decades ahead of its time. He did away with the clinical outfits traditionally worn by recovering patients – known, appropriately, as the Hospital Blues – and allowed the airmen to wear their own clothes instead. McIndoe formed a support group for them – which was christened, in the tradition of wartime gallows humour, the Guinea Pig Club – and set about ensuring that East Grinstead would be a tolerant and welcoming home during their rehabilitation. Encouraging those who were well enough to venture out into town, he implored the local residents to make them feel at ease – and they obliged so readily that East Grinstead became known as “the town that didn’t stare”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The work to rebuild the shattered minds of the badly burned airmen required East Grinstead people to accept the men with all their disfigurements without drawing attention to them,” explained Spalding. “They were told not to stare and it has become ingrained; many famous people come to town and shop quite happily without fear of being disturbed.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe area’s attraction to well-heeled buyers in pursuit of peace and quiet shows no signs of abating; in 2017, Adele became the latest megastar to lay down roots here, in a Grade II-listed manor house. It seems that now, just as in the days of Archibald McIndoe and his Guinea Pigs, East Grinstead is a town that knows when to look away. It’s no wonder people of all stripes feel so at home here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-01-04T23:04:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"England’s sleepy ‘Scientology town’","headlineShort":"England's sleepy scientology town","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The sleepy Sussex market town of East Grinstead has gained a reputation in recent decades as a hotbed for offbeat religious activity.","summaryShort":"“It’s east England’s answer to Glastonbury”","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:59:37.988727Z","entity":"article","guid":"fc6e3727-88b3-4770-a83e-44cbcc73c4b4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:39:56.598985Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396260},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b2928714c32","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Located in a German region famed for its frugality, Tübingen is known for its fiercely green reputation, where veganism and environmental friendliness are the default setting.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Germany's south-west, nestled between the alps of the Swabian region and the densely wooded Schönbuch nature park, lies Tübingen, a university city that would put most Disney locations to shame.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city is built around the almost perfectly preserved old town, with its cobbled alleyways, old timbered houses and rippling canals. (While historical centres of most German cities were destroyed during World War Two, just one bomb fell on Tübingen.) The river Neckar flows through the city centre, forming a little island – the Neckarinsel – which is covered with blossoms in the spring and shines golden in autumn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETübingen lies in Swabia, a German region famed for its frugality – and which is also one of the nation's sunniest spots, making it considerably more cheery than other parts of the country with more gloomy, rainy weather. Significantly, being an academic city, it is small yet dynamic. \"For the size of the city, I find it incredibly international,\" said Nele Neideck, who runs an expat community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI first came to Tübingen eight years ago to visit a friend, and, on first impression, the city seemed like a fairy tale, with its idyllic landscape and youthful vibe; out of the 90,000 residents, more than 27,000 are students at the University of Tübingen. We waded through gushing streams, feasted on Swabian specialties and travelled to parties in buses full of students. When I bid goodbye to this quirky town, I never imagined that years later I'd be returning to make it home. But that's what Tübingen does: it pulls you in, and before you know it, the ease of living in a place as small and vibrant as this makes you never want to leave.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Tübingen in Baden-Württemberg","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut that's not all that characterises Tübingen: it's also innovative, green and allows the existence of alternative lifestyles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo put the city's singularity into context, Tübingen was one of the centres of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dw.com\u002Fen\u002F68-movement-brought-lasting-changes-to-german-society\u002Fa-3257581\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGerman student protests of 1968\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which took place all over West Germany rejecting traditionalism and authority, which influenced the city's leftist and environmental sensibility.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermany's futuristic city set in a forest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200223-is-gothenburg-europes-greenest-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this Europe's greenest city?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200415-how-can-we-be-sustainable-post-covid-19\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow can we be sustainable post Covid?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Tübingen, there are self-governed housing initiatives, where cooking and grocery shopping is organised collectively and is mostly vegan,\" explained Jenny Bröder, who has been living in Tübingen for 12 years and works at the university. \"The people running and living in these housings are often politically active, cultivate an awareness for social and ecological topics, and contribute to the cultural scene by organising concerts, lectures, festivals and parties. The food offered at these events is usually vegan too.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, a lot of people I have met since moving here are vegetarian or vegan, and it's as common to ask if someone eats meat as it is to ask if they have allergies. Tübingen is even an official participant in Veganuary, the annual challenge that encourages people to go vegan for the month of January.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Our vegetarian offering of the day gets sold out much quicker than the meat offering,\" said Alok Damodaran, who runs a South Indian \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fspicetrippingfoodtruck\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efood truck\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the city. This is significant in a country that is known for its sausage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Sedat Yalcin at Ada Bakery","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGreen politicians have been a part of the District Council since way back in 1979. And as a third of its population are students, the city is home to an educated community that is aware of environmental issues. It is this young and energetic spirit that allows for sustainability to be functional.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor example, Amelie Dietenberger and Kajetan Krott started baking vegan banana bread during the pandemic, first making individual deliveries and then turning it to a business supplying to several cafes. \"Tübingen has a certain feel of being green and happy, and has a lot of young people, which fits our project,\" said Dietenberger. \"People are so supportive because it's a local initiative, and they especially appreciate it that we deliver it in an electric car.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Tübingen has a certain feel of being green and happy, and has a lot of young people","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESedat Yalcin opened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.adabaeckerei.com\u002F\"\u003EAda Bakery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the city after coming here for an exchange programme several years ago, and now runs it with his wife, Aysenur-Sarcan Yalcin. While Germany is famous for its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170203-germanys-favourite-fast-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edöner kebab\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and shawarma joints, in Yalcin's bakery, virtually all the food is vegetarian or vegan. There are delicious \u003Cem\u003Eböreks\u003C\u002Fem\u003E filled with spinach, potatoes, aubergines, tahini and cheese alongside \u003Cem\u003Esimits\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a circular Turkish bread, and heaping salads. \"We are sold out every evening,\" Yalcin said. \"A vegetarian Turkish bakery works here because of all the students, but also people who are from here, they care about the environment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETübingen is also constantly being redesigned and updated to be ever-more environmentally friendly. Wide and well-integrated bike lanes along with high parking fees makes the city very car unfriendly. An \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tagblatt.de\u002FNachrichten\u002FFreie-Fahrt-fuer-Radfahrer-494307.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eorder passed in February 2022\u003C\u002Fa\u003E declared that cars will no longer be allowed to drive on the city's central street, which will be reserved for buses and bikes. Students can travel on buses for free on weekends and after 19:00 in the evenings, while bus travel is free for everyone on Saturdays. (The local government even plans to make buses free all the time.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETübingen spends three times as much per capita on bicycle infrastructure than Copenhagen, Boris Palmer, the city's mayor, told me. And a new tax imposed at the beginning of 2022 – with Tübingen being the first city in Germany to implement it – has upgraded the green status of the city even further.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Passive houses at quarter 'Alte Weberei', Tuebingen","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Verpackungssteuer(packaging tax) imposes an extra payment of fifty cents on any disposable packaging, from coffee cups to ice cream bowls to meal plates. In addition, all disposable cutlery like folks, knives and spoons cost twenty cents extra. Even pizza boxes and the foil around a takeaway falafel are taxed. Regardless of whether they're made from sustainable or recycled material, anything that is one-time use will be costlier, based on the principle that non-production is better than future recycling or disposal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe tax is already off to an encouraging start: the first few weeks resulted in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.swr.de\u002Fswraktuell\u002Fbaden-wuerttemberg\u002Ftuebingen\u002Fverpackungssteuer-tuebingen-bilanz-nach-einem-monat-100.html\"\u003Eup to 15% less waste in the city's rubbish bins\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The number is only set to rise, as more people get in the habit of bringing their own cutlery and restaurants start providing reusable dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBoth the residents and businesses of Tübingen have risen to the challenge. \"I have stopped stocking any disposable plates,\" said Naresh Taneja, who has owned vegan Indian restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FMaharajaImbiss\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaharaja\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Tübingen for 30 years. \"We were already encouraging our customers to bring their own lunchboxes, and now this tax helped even more.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYalcin added that the local government provided assistance to deal with the packaging tax and helped them buy dishwashers and reusable cutlery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ruling has not gone down well with Tübingen's only McDonald's, however, which \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.faz.net\u002Faktuell\u002Fwirtschaft\u002Ftuebingen-boris-palmer-streitet-mit-mcdonald-s-17780360.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eis suing the city over the tax\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. With more than 1,500 restaurants across the country, McDonald's claim it's hard to customise solutions and are arguing for a uniform framework as opposed to rules differing across cities. \"We agree that the best packaging is the one that is not produced in the first place. But local special paths of individual cities or communities stand in the way of a nationally successful and implementable concept,\" said a spokesperson, as the company is implementing targeted trials of their own reusables system.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Tubingen, view of the bridge decorated with flowers","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.faz.net\u002Faktuell\u002Fwirtschaft\u002Ftuebingen-boris-palmer-streitet-mit-mcdonald-s-17780360.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EIt is not, however, the first time McDonald's has tried to block such a move; the packaging tax was proposed in the German city of Kassel in the 1990s, but \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.faz.net\u002Faktuell\u002Fwirtschaft\u002Ftuebingen-boris-palmer-streitet-mit-mcdonald-s-17780360.html\"\u003Ea McDonald's lawsuit overturned the attempt\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, Palmer is confident that Tübingen's packaging tax will prevail when the case is heard in March 2022. \"We believe that a city has the right to frame such a tax, and then even a big company has to accept that. I can't believe why an international company can't switch to reusables if every small business can do that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This gives us hope that there might be a way to overcome global warming","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPalmer, who was appointed mayor in 2007, is credited by many for shaping Tübingen's green policies, such as obligatory solar photovoltaic systems on roofs and the free buses on Saturdays. \"We have seen a reduction in the emission of carbon dioxide per capita by 40% in the last 15 years, while Tübingen's economy has grown by 40%,\" he said. \"This gives us hope that there might be a way to overcome global warming and keep growing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile much can be learnt from Tübingen's model, perhaps it's hard to replicate the city's victories, as they emerge from a uniquely supportive social and political landscape. Some worry Tübingen runs the threat of going too far: a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spiegel.de\u002Fpanorama\u002Fdie-gruene-hoelle-a-f2760e56-0002-0001-0000-000077531620\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2011 Spiegel article\u003C\u002Fa\u003E described the French Quarters, one of the greenest neighbourhoods in the city – and the country – as a \"green hell\", presenting its residents as intolerant and hypocritically green.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAdditionally, many feel that Tübingen is too academic to be considered a real-world example. \"You will stay very much in the academic bubble if you live there,\" said Kathi Winkler, who lived in Tübingen for several years before moving to Berlin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, the example of Tübingen shows that paving the way for a greener planet can be achieved on a small scale, proving that small can be powerful, beautiful and inspirational.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-21T10:58:43Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Tübingen: Europe's fiercely vegan, fairy-tale city","headlineShort":"A vegan-loving city sued by McDonald's","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.521637","longitude":"9.057645","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Located in a German region famed for its frugality, Tübingen is known for its fiercely green reputation, where veganism and environmental friendliness are the default setting.","summaryShort":"Will this fairy-tale town of the future prevail?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-20T20:59:15.476513Z","entity":"article","guid":"fa835272-2991-4d30-b327-40a0827ad13d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-22T23:21:46.748591Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396260},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders","_id":"62b420381f4b7b32e953cc23","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Bugis people of South Sulawesi are a powerful ethnic group remarkable for its recognition of five separate genders. But the future of their unique culture looks bleak.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Indonesian island of Sulawesi sprawls like a drunken starfish in the western Pacific Ocean, its four emerald limbs reaching into the Celebes, Molucca and Flores seas. On its south-western tip sits the smog-choked port city of Makassar, long an important trading post and Indonesia's eastern gateway to the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the grey dawn I stood on the waterfront and watched the curved prows of \u003Cem\u003Eprahu \u003C\u002Fem\u003Esailing ships proceed elegantly into the chaos of Paotere Harbour, here to unload their bounty of sea cucumbers, cuttlefish and other strange creatures of the deep. These vessels belong to the Bugis people, a seafaring society remarkable for its recognition of five separate genders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Despite only numbering around six million in a country of 270 million, the Bugis are highly influential","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The Bugis have words for five genders,\" explained Sharyn Graham Davies, an anthropologist at Monash University in Melbourne, Australia, \"that map onto five ways of being in the world.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Bugis are the largest ethnic group in South Sulawesi. Their heartland is in Makassar and the rice-growing countryside north of the city, but their prowess as seafarers and traders established their influence across Indonesia and the Malay Archipelago (and struck fear into the hearts of European colonisers, who regarded them as ruthless pirates). Despite only numbering around six million in a country of 270 million, the Bugis are highly influential: prominent examples include Jusuf Kalla, two-time vice president of Indonesia; and Najib Razak, former prime minister of Malaysia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The Bugis are among the strongest ethnic groups in the archipelago, politically, economically and culturally,\" said Sudirman Nasir, a Bugis who works in public health in South Sulawesi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDavies explained that in Bugis society, \u003Cem\u003Emakkunrai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and \u003Cem\u003Eoroani\u003C\u002Fem\u003E correspond to Western concepts of cis female and cis male. \u003Cem\u003ECalalai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E are born with female bodies but take on traditionally male gender roles; they may wear shirts and trousers, smoke cigarettes, wear their hair short and work manual jobs. \u003Cem\u003ECalabai \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eare born with male bodies but take on female gender roles, wearing dresses and makeup and growing their hair long. \"Many calabai work in beauty salons,\" said Neni, a calabai from the village of Segiri, north of Makassar. \"We also help to plan weddings and perform at wedding ceremonies.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181125-the-third-gender-of-southern-mexico\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe third gender of southern Mexico\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171010-the-tiny-island-the-british-traded-for-manhattan\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny island traded for Manhattan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180813-guna-yala-the-islands-where-women-make-the-rules\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe islands where women make the rules\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECalabai do not impersonate women, Davies explained, but exhibit their own suite of feminine behaviours that would be frowned upon in makkunrai women, like wearing miniskirts, smoking and acting in a more outwardly sexualised manner. Within Bugis society, calabai and calalai people may be disapproved of in some quarters, but they are widely tolerated, even seen as playing an important role in society, and are generally not attacked or otherwise persecuted by their own community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe fifth Bugis gender is \u003Cem\u003Ebissu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which is considered neither male nor female but representative of the totality of the gender spectrum. Bissu, like calabai and calalai, display their identity through dress: they often wear flowers, a traditionally feminine symbol, but carry the \u003Cem\u003Ekeris\u003C\u002Fem\u003E dagger associated with men. Many bissu are born intersex, but the term has implications beyond biology. While Bugis gender is often described as a spectrum, bissu are deemed to be above this classification: spiritual beings who are not halfway between male and female, but rather embody the power of both at once.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It is said that on their descent from heaven bissu did not split and become male or female, like most people,\" Davies explained, \"but remained a sacred unity of both.\" As such, they are perceived as intermediaries between worlds and occupy a shaman-like role in Bugis religion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA serene old lady and a clucking chicken were my travel companions in a battered sky-blue \u003Cem\u003Ebemo \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(public minibus) as I left Makassar behind. As we rattled north, jagged shards of limestone karst, tufted with jungle, lurched skyward from the surrounding rice paddies. It was planting season, and we passed a field where a mechanical plough was being pushed along, preceded by a ritualistic parade of bissu, recognisable by their robes of red, gold and green and their headdresses adorned with colourful flowers. We drove on. The evening sun began to glow like coal, and the Bugis farmers, bending to tend the rice fields, cast hunched and lengthening shadows.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs darkness fell, we arrived in the town of Segiri, where I followed a throng of locals into a large wooden house. Five bissu were gathered in the centre of the room around a pile of rice. Fragrant incense smoke swirled in the near-darkness, and the sound of drums and chanting quickened to fever pitch as the bissu danced jerkily into a trance-like state. In unison, they unsheathed their keris daggers and began to stab the wavy blades into their own temples, palms, even their eyelids – seemingly not feeling any pain or barely even drawing a drop of blood. To undergo this ritual, known as \u003Cem\u003Ema'giri'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, and come through it unharmed is seen as proof that the bissu have been possessed by the gods and are ready to give blessings. This ceremony, like the parade in the rice field, was geared towards ensuring a bountiful harvest; good health and successful pregnancies are among other outcomes hoped for from a bissu blessing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Becoming bissu is a call of the soul,\" explained Eka, the head bissu in Segiri. \"We travel at an early age to study with a senior bissu, and learn our secret language, Basa To Ri Langiq (Language of the Heavens), which only we can understand.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to granting blessings, Eka officiates at weddings. \"The Bugis treat us very well,\" Eka said. \"They have to, because we oversee all the Bugis customs.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough their religious rituals and conception of gender are infused with pre-Islamic ideas, most Bugis are Muslims, many devoutly so. \"There were complex interactions between Bugis values and Islamic teaching,\" explained Nasir. \"This led to forms of Islamic-Bugis syncretism.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Since the mid-20th Century, wider Indonesian society has become less tolerant of non-binary ideas of gender","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor example, as Davies explained, Bugis people often seek out bissu to bless a forthcoming hajj to Mecca. Many calalai and calabai struggle with their sexuality and sense of self, she also noted, believing that their lifestyle (which may include same-sex relations) is sinful according to Islamic belief, but also that they are the way they are because it was prescribed by Allah. For the same reason, they do not have a concept of being born in the wrong body; even though some calabai may undergo cosmetic procedures to make them look more feminine, they will not consider themselves to be women, as Davies discovered in her fieldwork.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIslam began to predominate across Indonesia in the 1400s, but for centuries the local people reconciled their variegated perception of gender with the new faith. \"European sailors were writing about their reflections on gender diversity in South Sulawesi since at least the 1500s,\" Davies explained. In 1848, the British colonialist James Brooke wrote in his journal: \"The strangest custom I have observed is that some men dress like women, and some women like men; not occasionally, but all their lives, devoting themselves to the occupations and pursuits of their adopted sex.\" Upon visiting South Sulawesi, Brooke was further surprised by the social equality he observed between women and men, a sentiment shared by his fellow imperialist Thomas Stanford Raffles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA third gender known as \u003Cem\u003Ewaria\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a portmanteau of \u003Cem\u003Ewanita\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning woman, and \u003Cem\u003Epria\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning man) has long been acknowledged in societies across Indonesia. Since the mid-20th Century, however, wider Indonesian society has become less tolerant of non-binary ideas of gender, which has resulted in persecution towards calabai and bissu people in particular. Beginning in the 1950s, a wave of violent attacks started against the LGBTQ community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"When Kahar Muzakkar's Darul Islam rebellion movement wanted to establish an Islamic state in the 1950s, the bissu were arrested, tortured and forced to repent,\" said Nurhayatai Rahman Mattameng, a Bugis philologist. Some bissu had their heads shaved so they could be publicly shamed; some were killed. \"During the New Order era under President Suharto (1967-1998), there was an initiative called Operation Repentance,\" Mattameng added. \"All bissu people were forced to [renounce] To Latang, the ancestral religion of the Bugis, and choose one of the officially recognised religions in Indonesia instead.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2001, Islamic extremists burned down the Makassar headquarters of GAYa Celebes, a gay rights organisation. In 2018, the Jakarta Post \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thejakartapost.com\u002Fnews\u002F2018\u002F03\u002F08\u002Fjakarta-social-agency-targets-transgender-people-as-social-misfits.html\"\u003Ereported\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that transgender women were being rounded up and placed in detention centres in Indonesia's capital city, as a \"deterrent\" to people identifying as waria\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Bissu, calalai and calabai are experiencing a lot of stigma and discrimination, which is sadly increasing alongside the growing assertiveness of political Islam,\" said Nasir. \"At the societal level, there is a strong tendency towards an increased piety and puritanism, which could be compared to that of born-again Christians in the West. The future for these persecuted people is not very promising.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEka agreed that the future looks bleak. \"The number of teachers with knowledge of the bissu ways is decreasing. So is people's interest in living as calabai,\" said Eka. \"In the future, bissu will be threatened with extinction.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENot everyone is so pessimistic about the future, however. There is help at hand in the form of Halilintar Lathief, a Bugis activist, artist and anthropologist. Lathief's organisation, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FLatar-Nusa-371395246238831\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELatar Nusa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is fighting to revitalise bissu and calabai culture by preserving traditional literature and empowering them to harness the economic benefits of their traditional ritual roles by seeking paid work as bridal makeup artists, wedding planners and caterers and medicinal shamans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"In the early days, the trauma of persecution they had faced meant no-one wanted to become or claim to be bissu,\" Lathief said. \"They were afraid of being arrested or killed; some were ashamed. Now, after several years, there are many more people who identify as calabai, and more who are proud to be called bissu.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Four-unique-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOur Unique World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that celebrates what makes us different and distinctive by exploring offbeat subcultures and obscure communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-04-12T22:47:46Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Asia's isle of five separate genders","headlineShort":"A seafaring people with five genders","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Bugis people of South Sulawesi are a powerful ethnic group remarkable for their recognition of five separate genders. But the future of their unique culture looks bleak.","summaryShort":"They count a former vice president and prime minister among their number","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:04:27.301408Z","entity":"article","guid":"6ce9de67-740b-4033-af6c-9256f36af234","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:25:38.802581Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396260},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking","_id":"62b4203c1f4b7b29297fd86e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdaniel-stables"],"bodyIntro":"Trailblazing scientists, architects and engineers are flocking to a sleepy Welsh town, where their environmental breakthroughs are changing – and helping to save – the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAmid the mist-cloaked, forested slopes of the Dyfi Valley, outside the Welsh market town of Machynlleth, is a remarkable sight: a seemingly ramshackle collection of log cabins, old wind turbines, thatched huts, steel tubes and funicular railways, rising from the banks of a former slate quarry. It looks at once incongruous and perfectly at home; both organic and man-made, as if it had grown there like a strange bionic jungle from the seeds of industry long abandoned. Perhaps that's appropriate, given that the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcat.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECentre for Alternative Technology (CAT)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has spent the last half a century redefining the relationship between nature and humankind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs it prepares to celebrate its 50th birthday in 2023, its work has never been so urgent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECAT was founded in 1973 by an eclectic, experimental community of architects, engineers, builders and organic growers, led by businessman and environmentalist Gerard Morgan-Grenville. They felt compelled to seek alternative ways of living in response to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fevent\u002FArab-oil-embargo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ean international oil crisis, ignited by the Yom Kippur War in Israel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, that saw governments across Europe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fworld\u002Ffrom-the-archive-blog\u002F2020\u002Fnov\u002F04\u002Fnetherlands-introduces-car-free-sundays-archive-1973\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eban driving on Sundays\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and impose rations on heating. In 1975, a visitor centre was opened to increase public awareness and engagement, setting the tone for CAT's unique identity: part research centre, part tourist attraction and part educational hub.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the centre offers master's degrees in fields such as green building, energy provision and sustainable food; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcat.org.uk\u002Fmeet-cat-graduates\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emany CAT alumni\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have gone on to be leaders in the sustainability field, such as architect Kirsty Cassels, voted Social Entrepreneur of the Year at 2019's Scottish Women's Awards, and solicitor Sonya Bedford, awarded an MBE for her contributions to community energy. The centre is marking its half-century milestone by embarking on an ambitious redevelopment project, modernising and scaling up both its visitor experience and educational offerings, while remaining open to the public. Visitors can get hands-on with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcat.org.uk\u002Fvisiting\u002Fdays-out-events\u002F?date=upcoming&view=grid&type=Visitor-Centre&category=All#whats-on\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworkshops\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in sustainable building materials, woodland management, organic gardening and more; children particularly love the wildlife activities, such as pond-dipping, monitoring nest cams and laying moth traps.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was met at reception by Rob Bullen, CAT's marketing manager, and Eileen Kinsman, interim co-CEO. We climbed aboard the funicular railway – one of the steepest in the world, with a gradient of 35 degrees. As a tank at the top filled with water, one at the bottom was emptied; gravity did the rest, and we were pulled up a sheer cliff with hydropower.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdykwl"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESuch innovation is everywhere at CAT. I was shown rooms full of heat pumps and clanking biomass boilers; thick-walled, small-windowed homes built in the 1970s as models for sustainability\u003Cstrong\u003E;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E and a modern lecture hall with walls made of rammed earth, a lower-carbon alternative to concrete (the production of cement, a key ingredient in concrete, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fclimate.mit.edu\u002Fexplainers\u002Fconcrete\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econtributes to approximately 7% of all greenhouse gas emissions worldwide\u003C\u002Fa\u003E). Small buildings pepper the grounds as standalone experiments, among them the \"Hairy Hut\", made from layered thatch and resembling Cousin Itt from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt0505417\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAddams Family\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"One of the most amazing things about CAT is the transformation of the slate quarry,\" said Kinsman. \"What was a brownfield site has been transformed into productive organic vegetable gardens and a wildlife haven.\" Pine martens, otters and dormice are among the animals that have returned. Young woodland smothers the floor of the former mining pit, with scattered pieces of rusting, skeletal hardware the only clues as to the quarry's former life. \"It's like the Lost World down there,\" said Bullen. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA bevy of green businesses have emerged as offshoots of CAT. Many innovations begin life as projects of CAT master's students; for example, the company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fadaptavate.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAdaptavate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which creates carbon-negative plaster and plasterboard, grew out of founder Tom Robinson's experiments while studying here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPointing out an unassuming-looking wooden shed, Kinsman said: \"That hut spun out a number of businesses, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdulas.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDulas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E [a renewable technology company]. That's where their solar-powered fridge was invented; nearly half Dulas' business now is solar-powered vaccine fridges.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's hard to imagine a more vivid illustration of how CAT's innovations, once viewed as wacky by outsiders, have assumed crucial importance in the modern world, even to the point of rendering the centre's name somewhat obsolete. \"These technologies aren't alternative anymore,\" Bullen said. \"They're mainstream.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdykvr"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen the first pioneers moved to CAT in the 1970s, their concerns, and those of the wider environmentalist movement, centred on limits to Earth's resources; by the 1990s and 2000s, the hole in the ozone layer and climate change had come to predominate. Since 2007, the emphasis has been on carbon, with CAT leading the charge to take Britain to net zero by 2040.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In response to the global climate crisis, sustainable solutions developed by CAT will hopefully help Wales and the UK achieve net-zero greenhouse gas emissions by the middle of this century,\" said Val Hawkins, chief executive of MWT Cymru tourism organisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMachynlleth has transformed in the decades since CAT's opening, turning from ancient market town into a haven for eco awareness. This is partly through the centre's creation of green businesses, which comprise a significant part of the local economy, but also through various other eco initiatives in the area. In 1977, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dyfibiosphere.wales\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco Dyfi Biosphere Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which encompasses Machynlleth and the surrounding Dyfi Valley, was established to protect the region's peat moorlands, sand dunes, beaches and woodland. Together, these habitats are home to red kites, dolphins and water buffalo, while nesting ospreys can be seen at the nearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitwales.com\u002Fattraction\u002Fzoo-farm-or-aquarium\u002Fdyfi-wildlife-centre-1670162\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDyfi Wildlife Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which re-opened in spring 2022 with a state-of-the-art, carbon-positive visitor building.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdykwn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMachynlleth's eco credentials have attracted luminaries who tie in with the area's longstanding reputation for alternative thinking, bohemianism and the arts. One erstwhile resident is the activist George Monbiot: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fprofile\u002Fgeorgemonbiot\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGuardian columnist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, author of the bestselling rewilding book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguin.co.uk\u002Fbooks\u002F180\u002F180586\u002Fferal\u002F9780141975580.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFeral\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and perhaps the most recognisable face in British environmentalism. Other famous faces have included Robert Plant and Jimmy Page, who wrote much Led Zeppelin material in a nearby cottage; while \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmoma.cymru\u002Fen\u002Fabout\u002Fthe-tabernacle\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EY Tabernacl\u003C\u002Fa\u003E theatre and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmoma.cymru\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseum of Modern Art\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are both acclaimed spaces dedicated to supporting local arts and promoting Welsh and Celtic culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMany obituaries have been written for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-58433461\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe British high street\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in recent years. Not so Machynlleth, whose handsome main thoroughfare counts among its mainstays an organic foods shop, a natural health centre and an Ayurvedic chocolatier and apothecary. I turned from the window of the latter, advertising ashwagandha powder and triphala remedies, to see a man in a rainbow poncho, carrying a wizard's staff, walk into a branch of swanky paint merchants \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spectator.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fthe-heritage-paints-that-rival-farrow-ball\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFarrow & Ball\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It's an image that sums up at least one facet of modern Machynlleth: an air of well-heeled bohemianism, shared with the likes of Glastonbury and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEast Grinstead\u003C\u002Fa\u003E across the border in England.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI wondered how the influx of well-meaning settlers had gone down in this traditional, Welsh-speaking, farming town. \"In the '70s there were individuals who didn't like CAT, because they saw it as something from the outside – but that's very much a minority sport now,\" said Andy Rowland, managing director of local sustainability organisation \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ecodyfi.wales\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEcodyfi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The incomers have long since integrated with the local community, with many of their children attending Welsh-speaking schools; and besides, their principles align closely with those that are deep-rooted in Welsh culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cdykw8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere is a Welsh noun, \u003Cem\u003Ecynefin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, that is sometimes translated into English as \"habitat\", but really means something much deeper, evoking the weight of time and the power of connection to a place. It was originally a farming term, used to describe the tracks which animals wore into their hillsides and valleys, and to which they would habitually return, generation after generation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The respect for stewarding the land is inherent in Welsh society and culture,\" said Rowland. \"I'm very pleased about the suite of Welsh government policies. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.futuregenerations.wales\u002Fabout-us\u002Ffuture-generations-act\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWell-being of Future Generations Act\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is recognised worldwide as a leader. In the rest of the UK, there's a difference in emphasis. The language in England is about 'natural capital' and 'environmental assets' – economic terms. We don't tend to use that language in Wales.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven so, economic motivations, particularly tourism, have a role to play in preserving the area's precious landscapes. In addition to CAT's visitor activities and osprey-viewing at the Dyfi Wildlife Centre, there are magnificently picturesque places to stay, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cefncochfarm.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECefn Coch Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where ecology workshops and nature walks through Cambrian wildwood are on the agenda. These things all contribute to a wider understanding that the concerns that fuelled innovation at places like CAT are no longer fringe fears but matters of urgency.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"People understand now that the future really does involve these technologies,\" Rowland said. \"They're not weird. They're not wacky.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fgreen-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EGreen Cities\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that profiles innovative cities and towns around the world that are making bold strides towards a more sustainable future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fgreen-cities","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-16T00:34:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The UK's haven for alternative thinking","headlineShort":"The sleepy Welsh town saving the world","image":["p0cdyks9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"52.5923018","longitude":"-3.8521113","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cdyks9"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210103-englands-sleepy-scientology-town","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220320-tbingen-europes-fiercely-vegan-fairy-tale-city","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210411-asias-isle-of-five-separate-genders"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Trailblazing scientists, architects and engineers are flocking to a sleepy Welsh town, where their environmental breakthroughs are changing – and helping to save – the world.","summaryShort":"Its innovations, once seen as wacky, have gained crucial importance in the world","tag":["tag\u002Fsustainability","tag\u002Fconservation"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-15T22:20:22.202819Z","entity":"article","guid":"f7a87378-510d-4cdb-9178-cc33cf771268","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-16T14:14:42.307353Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fwales","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_wales_europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396259},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving","_id":"62b4202c1f4b7b293d7e6fb6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Pasalubong is more than simply a souvenir or gift, with layers of meaning and ritual behind the word.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the daughter of a mother who worked overseas, I always looked forward to receiving \u003Cem\u003Epasalubong\u003C\u002Fem\u003E from Mama when we were kids. It came every few months in the form of \u003Cem\u003Ebalikbayan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (return [to] country) boxes filled with chocolates, canned goods, toiletries, cosmetics, clothes, shoes and anything else that couldn’t be bought or found in the Philippines. These handpicked items were carefully packed by my mother, sent in the hopes of filling the void left by a parent abroad.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Filipino word ‘pasalubong’ has its roots in the word \u003Cem\u003Esalubong\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means ‘meet’ or ‘welcome’. When prefixed by \u003Cem\u003Epa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the act of salubong turns into an object relating to it – ‘to meet’, ‘to welcome’. Pasalubong, therefore, is a souvenir – a gift given to someone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe precise beginnings of the pasalubong ritual are difficult to identify. Dr Nestor Castro, anthropology professor at the University of the Philippines, believes pasalubong is a pre-Hispanic practice, given that the term is indigenous to the Filipino language and that early Philippine communities engaged in long-distance trade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The word ‘pasalubong’ has its roots in the word salubong, which means ‘meet’ or ‘welcome’","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFellow anthropology professor at the University of the Philippines, Dr Michael Tan, agrees, writing, “…I suspect it referred to a time when travel was difficult, making the return more emotion-laden. The more distant and the more difficult the place one went to, as in the case of many of our overseas Filipinos, the more important it was to bring back something.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut pasalubong is more than simply a souvenir or gift, with layers of meaning and ritual lying behind the word.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Pasalubong is based on the principle of reciprocity – favour doing or gift giving,” explained Dr Mary Racelis, research scientist at the Institute of Philippine Culture and professorial lecturer at the Department of Sociology and Anthropology at the Ateneo de Manila University. She explained that bringing back pasalubong for those left behind fulfils certain cultural concerns: reinforcing a friendship, honouring the recipient, sharing one’s good fortune of being able to travel outside the community and promoting the idea that you were thinking of the recipient while you were away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Pasalubong is based on the principle of reciprocity","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd pasalubong is not limited to items brought home by foreign workers. It can be as simple as a box of doughnuts from parents after work, or regional delicacies from places you’ve travelled to. Pasalubong can be typical of the place where one is coming from, or items that the recipient couldn’t normally afford.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhenever I travel, I always think about the pasalubong I can bring back home. I look for items that are inextricably linked to places I’ve been – peanut kisses from the central Philippines’ Bohol province; \u003Cem\u003Eube hopia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (moon cake-like pastries filled with purple yam) from Puerto Princesa in Palawan; durian candies from the southern Philippines’ Davao region; a batik sarong from Bali; Petronas Twin Towers shirts from Malaysia; Tim Tam biscuits from Australia; Choco-ade cookies from New Zealand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI’ve also received pasalubong from family, friends and colleagues post-travel: \u003Cem\u003Eespasol\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rice cake cooked in coconut milk) from Laguna, a province south of Manila; \u003Cem\u003Esapin-sapin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (multi-coloured sticky rice cake) from Malabon, a city north of Manila; \u003Cem\u003Ebagnet\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (deep-fried crispy pork belly) from the northern Philippines’ Ilocos region; dates from Saudi Arabia; a rosary from Jerusalem; and key chains and fridge magnets from almost every city and country possible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut pasalubong extends beyond Filipinos, with many foreigners adopting the custom when they hear about it. I’ve had co-workers from other countries bring pasalubong such as nougat and macarons from France and chocolates from Australia. As a gesture of goodwill, we make sure they take home Filipino trinkets like a small wooden \u003Cem\u003Ecarabao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Philippine water buffalo), \u003Cem\u003Ecapiz\u003C\u002Fem\u003E shell coasters or a tiny replica of a \u003Cem\u003Ejeepney\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a Philippine public transport vehicle that evolved from the American Jeep). When visiting their offices abroad, we come bearing dried mangoes, a favourite Filipino pasalubong.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis implicit recognition of reciprocity – that the person who receives pasalubong is expected to give pasalubong in return – is an essential part of the ritual. Expressions of appreciation and reassurances of joy for the person returning home are also expected.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOverseas Filipino workers, or OFWs, carry the heaviest pasalubong expectations. “Since they have gone abroad and ostensibly made a lot of money, pasalubong is a form of sharing their wealth,” Dr Racelis explained. “Pasalubong for the immediate family is seen as partly compensating for their having been away from the family for some time, and having deprived the latter of the worker’s presence.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe rise in the number of Filipinos working in other countries, with Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates and Kuwait having the biggest diaspora, has led to the balikbayan box phenomenon. “The balikbayan box was a creative response by shippers who recognized that many OFWs were sending large amounts of items home,” Dr Racelis said. “They recognised the market demand and responded to it by designing and selling easy-to-assemble, sturdy and stackable boxes of the right size for airline shipping.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe balikbayan box has become a receptacle for pasalubong even if the person has not yet returned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When one person goes to a distant land, they return carrying pasalubong with them. But in the case of the balikbayan box, it is sent to relatives and friends even if the person who sent it has not yet returned home,” Dr Castro said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith the convenience provided by the balikbayan box and the prevalence of travel, has the pasalubong started to lose its meaning?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Because many goods are now easily available, certain types of pasalubong no longer have strong significance,” Dr Castro said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDr Tan \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fopinion.inquirer.net\u002F16881\u002Fpasalubong\"\u003Ewrites\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, “When you travel a lot, as I used to, the pasalubong can become more of a tedious obligation rather than an act of generosity and joy. Because we feel obligated to bring something for everyone, we pick up whatever we can just to give something.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The longing for pasalubong connects Filipinos to their notion of home and heritage","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDr Racelis meanwhile notes the resentment felt by many OFWs at what appears to be excessive expectations from prospective recipients. She says that during their first trip home, OFWs are happy to share the benefits of working abroad and exemplifying their success by bringing extensive pasalubong. However, when this cuts down on their savings, the happy feeling may decline each time they return.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite all this, pasalubong remains a steadfast trait within Philippine culture. “Pasalubong continues to fulfil the function of reintegrating travellers back to the community and reinforcing familial ties and friendships,” Dr Racelis said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We should not underestimate the resiliency of culture,” Dr Castro added. “The longing for pasalubong connects Filipinos to their notion of home and heritage.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin over three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-07-10T21:18:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"What the Philippines can teach us about giving","headlineShort":"The country that loves to give","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Pasalubong is more than simply a souvenir or gift, with layers of meaning and ritual behind the word.","summaryShort":"Why many foreigners are adopting its custom of reciprocity","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:04:02.071681Z","entity":"article","guid":"3ca64701-d968-485a-8de7-11c56c59a3d6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:11:46.870296Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food","_id":"62b420381f4b7b32e6399973","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Food-loving Malaysians have been known to debate the best local food spots for hours. But one thing they all agree on is that the best char kway teow can be found in Penang.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp0934fy3.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because I've been making \u003Cem\u003Echar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Ekway teow\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for more than 60 years; people come from all over the world to taste it. I'm so proud knowing they've travelled to my hometown of Penang for my food. Even though we don't speak the same language, when I see them finishing their plate, I know they are happy.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Tan Chooi Hong (Uncle Tan), street food cook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was 35C in the shade, and Tan Chooi Hong, hunched over a blazing hot wok, hadn’t broken a sweat. Flames from the charcoal sparked and danced up the side of the wok, crackling as he added the ingredients one by one, just as his father taught him almost 60 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EChar kway teow\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, Malaysia’s most famous street food, is a simple rice noodle dish made with soy sauce, eggs, cockles, bean sprouts, Chinese sausage and a couple of shrimp. It’s common throughout the country – devoured at roadside stalls or feasted on at hawker centres – but there is only one “king” of char kway teow, and he’s in Penang.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUncle Tan, as he’s known, is a sturdy 79-year-old with a shock of white hair and an all-knowing glimmer in his eye. He’s been cooking this single dish from a wok-cart attached to a bicycle and pushed into place on the side of Siam Road in central George Town for decades. “I don’t remember how old I was when I started. But char kway teow is all I know,” said Uncle Tan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUncle Tan’s unlikely fame began in 2012 when he was interviewed by a local who put the story on Facebook. His decades of cooking experience, combined with layered flavours of smoky-unctuous noodles perfectly balanced with the salty-sweet Chinese sausage, quickly got the younger generation of foodies salivating. Nothing is better than a simple noodle dish with an interesting backstory, and young Penangites ate it up. The article went viral and people began flying to the island just to taste his dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2015, celebrity chef Martin Yan, known for his \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyancancook.com\u002Fhome\u002F\"\u003EYan Can Cook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E TV show, visited the stall for his TV show Taste of Malaysia. If that fame didn’t cement Uncle Tan’s title as king, placing 14th (out of 50) at the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwsfcongress.com\u002Faward-2017-winners\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld Street Food Congress in 2017\u003C\u002Fa\u003E certainly did. Today, his roadside wok-cart is a fixture in the food scene and he’s widely revered as serving up the most delicious, flavoursome char kway teow in Malaysia, churning out hundreds of plates a day with people waiting in line for hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUncle Tan is unfazed by his fame and prefers to keep a low profile. Humble and shy, he can’t understand what all the fuss is about and doesn’t think his version is any better than anoyone else’s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“My dad didn’t go to school to learn any skills. It wasn’t an option. He had to work for his father, so he worked by his side cooking char kway teow every day,” his daughter, Tan Evelyn, told me. “And he’s never stopped.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191111-where-is-malaysias-national-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's contentious rice dish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170808-the-truth-about-japanese-tempura\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe truth about Japanese tempura\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201216-the-mysterious-origin-of-zanzibar-pizza\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe mysterious origin of Zanzibar pizza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe ingredients of char kway teow are so simple that it takes a lot of skill to get it right. The main ingredient is flat rice noodles. No self-respecting char kway teow stall would use dried noodles, so Uncle Tan gets bags of the fresh, chewy goodness delivered by scooter regularly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI watched as he skillfully added one ingredient at a time, just by feel and sight. He threw a large handful of slippery noodles in the blisteringly hot wok and used a wide metal spatula to spin them around in the garlic and lard waiting for them. After pushing the noodles up the side of the pan, he expertly cracked an egg into the middle, breaking it with the spatula to let the yolk ooze into the noodles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA few soy sauce dashes, a spoonful of chilli sauce and a little water created a silky sauce that the noodles absorbed. Then Uncle Tan tossed in a couple of shrimp and a few slices of sweet \u003Cem\u003Elap cheong\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or Chinese sausage. Finally, a smattering of cockles got a spin in the wok. He topped it all with a handful of crunchy bean sprouts, chives and small homemade croutons made of crispy pork fat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe eyed the steaming noodles for the perfect consistency and then scooped them onto a melamine plate and started all over again. The whole process was lightning fast – less than two minutes – and Uncle Tan made it look effortless.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile many stalls use gas, Uncle Tan cooks on charcoal, frying one order at a time for maximum flavour and \u003Cem\u003Ewok hei\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which translates to “breath of the wok”. Wok hei is the smoky depth of flavour that charcoal adds to the dish and is expertly created by cooking the right portion over the right temperature. It’s something that gas heat cannot achieve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome people say that charcoal is the secret to Uncle Tan’s success, but, “they like my father’s char kway teow better than others because he’s perfected it over 60 years,” said Evelyn. “Other stalls use charcoal and the same ingredients, but no-one has his skill. Not even my brother Kean Huat who learned from him.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOthers try to attribute Uncle’s success to a secret sauce. “I promise. There is no secret sauce; it’s his wok skill,” said Evelyn. “I also cannot fry as my brother or dad. My brother has been working for years learning from my dad, and his skills are still improving. It takes a lifetime. Just ask my dad.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If I give you the same ingredients, you cannot make the same taste as me,” agreed Uncle Tan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven though char kway teow has become synonymous with Penang street food, its origins lie in China. In the 19th Century, the Chinese diaspora brought over Teochew and Hokkien people from Guangdong and Fujian provinces on China’s south-eastern coast. During that same time, Penang grew under British rule and it became a bustling entrepot providing greater employment opportunites. The Hokkien people came to work in the rubber plantations and as traders and merchants, while the Teochew found jobs in the tin mines and as fisherman. With them came some of their kitchen staples like soy sauce, bean curd and noodles called \u003Cem\u003Ekway teow\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn Hokkien, the word char means “stir-fried”\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and kway teow means “rice cake strips”, referring to the noodles. What had begun in China’s south-eastern provinces as a simple noodle dish with pork, fish sauce and soy sauce was transformed into a seafood delight once it hit the island’s shores. Initially, it was sold at night by fisherman and cockle gatherers trying to make an extra buck. Instead of the traditional ingredients, they used what was plentiful to create a revised version of the dish. It was a poor man’s food and the other Chinese immigrants devoured it as something fast, cheap and tasty to sustain them for hours under the hot sun. The dish became a labourer’s staple.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When the waves of Teochew and Hokkien immigrants came from China, they came alone, leaving their wives and families behind. Since there was no-one to cook for them, they survived on cheap street food,” said Nazlina Hussin, a Penangite culinary specialist and author. “From wok to plate, char kway teow takes no time. These men could stop for lunch, eat and be back to work within a few minutes.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo this day, most of the Chinese in Penang are of Hokkien and Teochew descent. It’s the only place in Malaysia where Hokkien is commonly spoken, which is why char kway teow has remained so closely linked to Penang. And although you can find the dish outside of Penang, locals say it’s not as good unless a Hokkien or Teochew makes it. That’s why people fly here from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore and wait in line for hours, in the hot sun, to try Uncle Tan’s char kway teow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s that good.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPlus, he’s one of the oldest char kway teow legends in Malaysia. There is a reverence in that. “Most customers come here for my dad. People say he’s a char kway teow idol. So, if he’s not cooking, they keep on driving,” said Evelyn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2018, for the first time in nearly 60 years, Uncle Tan took a break. On doctor’s orders after cataract surgery, he closed his shop for six months, and his devotees, like those of any idol or guru, went berserk. The whole island almost had a breakdown, with stories in local media lamenting his sudden overnight retirement. “Today we’ve had to endure the greatest loss of mankind,” \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpenangfoodie.com\u002Fbid-goodbye-to-siam-road-char-koay-teow-video\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewrote culinary website Penang Foodie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “Siam Road Char Koay Teow is believed to be closed down for good.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUncle Tan’s son took over for a brief moment and locals weren’t kind to him; Penangites are loyal foodies and they wanted the master's char kway teow. After six months of ever-more grandiose gossip, “We had to find a place; we couldn’t let the people down,” declared Evelyn. Instead of going back to his original roadside spot, they decided to find a premises on the same street. Today Uncle Tan still cooks from a bike pushcart with a wok attached; it’s just parked in front of his shop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"He’s widely revered as serving up the most delicious, flavoursome char kway teow in Malaysia","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Now, my son and I can take turns cooking. When I get tired, I can sit down and watch Kean Huat try to perfect my dish,” he said with a wink. “It isn’t easy. But he’s a third-generation char kway teow cook, and even though he didn’t start as young as I did, he’ll be able to perfect his skills one day too.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUncle Tan’s char kway teow is not only Penang’s history on a plate; it’s his family’s history as well. Hopefully, Kean Huat will live up to his father’s reputation and teach future generations how to follow in the king’s footsteps.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut until then, “I have no plans to retire. As long as I can still stand and cook over the wok, I’ll be here on Jalan Siam,” laughed Uncle Tan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EHow to try it\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYou can find Uncle Tan’s shop at 82 Siam Road, George Town, about one block off the corner with Anson Road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeat the queues by heading there around 14:30, right at the end of Uncle Tan’s shift. He works from 12:00-15:00, before handing it over to his son who cooks until 18:30. Note: the shop is closed on Sunday and Monday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food-13"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":true,"displayDate":"2021-01-19T21:49:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Malaysia’s humble ‘king of noodles’","headlineShort":"Malaysia’s humble ‘king of noodles’","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"5.4141","longitude":"100.3288","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Food-loving Malaysians have been known to debate the best local food spots for hours. But one thing they all agree on is that the best char kway teow can be found in Penang.","summaryShort":"He churns out hundreds of plates a day, and it’s the only thing he cooks","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:00:26.711547Z","entity":"article","guid":"7e900232-4e0f-4207-9aba-94ed3b8997be","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:21:23.37022Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors","_id":"62b4203c1f4b7b2940527921","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Eaten right off the coals, yaki-imo (roasted sweet potatoes) are a beloved centuries-old food, whether they're served by old-fashioned street vendors or modern \"imo\" girls and boys.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EYaki-imo…\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" The forlorn cry of the roasted sweet potato vendor echoed through the canyons of concrete and tiled buildings in a Tokyo suburb. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=2B3fc41Ou8Y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epre-recorded song\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, bookended with spoken claims of \"\u003Cem\u003Eoishii, oishii\" \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(delicious, delicious), flowed from speakers on a stubby flatbed \u003Cem\u003Ekei\u003C\u002Fem\u003E truck. This small vehicle, a ubiquitous part of working-class Japan, had been converted into a vessel for \u003Cem\u003Eidōhanbai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (literally, mobile sales).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EComplete with an oven and an awning, plus a price list and colourful advertising, the truck trundled slowly around the perimeter of a park on a chilly March evening. It paused outside an apartment block, engine idling. A mother and child stopped, and, after a brief exchange with the vendor, they sauntered off with warm sweet potatoes in hand. The truck lingered a moment longer and then slowly drove on. The song, its rising and falling intonation like a lament, started up again: yaki-imo…\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a country better known for its sushi, sashimi and noodle dishes, the simple roasted sweet potato – or yaki-imo – doesn't garner as much attention. But this hearty vegetable, yet another import in a sizeable list of historical introductions to the island nation (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.japan-guide.com\u002Fe\u002Fe2042.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eramen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for example), has long been a beloved winter snack eaten in the cold months after its harvest. A favourite in Japan since the 1600s, yaki-imo's moist, chewy texture and burnt-caramel scent still inspire nostalgia – as do the trucks that are gradually disappearing as sweet potato sales move to convenience stores and supermarkets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It is quite a rare treat to hear the song of those travelling peddlers,\" said Aiko Tanaka, food researcher and director of the Japan Food Studies College in Osaka.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, not only are fewer kei trucks out there, but you may not even hear them coming. \"The biggest factor behind the decrease in the song is noise complaints,\" said one vendor, Kōki Ono, who has been selling sweet potatoes for almost two years. \"Plus, \u003Cem\u003Ehiki-uri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E sales [those from mobile peddlers in general] are also declining.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAsuri Kamatani, president of modern yaki-imo outlet \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhimitsu-na-yakiimo.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHimitsu na Yakiimo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Secret Roasted Sweet Potato), has noticed the same thing. \"Certainly, compared to the Showa era [1926-89], the \u003Cem\u003Eojisan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [uncle] with his roasted sweet potato truck is rarely seen,\" she said. \"It's not an easy profession because it requires physical strength and time. So, it's a tough job for older people.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose who still trundle along have had to adapt. Ono's truck, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FOonoya919\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOono-ya,\u003C\u002Fa\u003E haunts busy spots along the Odakyu Line, a railway route that stretches from Shinjuku to the south-west suburbs of Tokyo, and the Nambu Line that serves Tokyo's Ota Ward and parts of neighbouring Kawasaki. \"The simple style of yaki-imo hasn't changed much,\" he said, the signage on his truck revealing that the potatoes only come in small, medium, large or oversized, with no condiments. One thing he has changed, though, is his strategy: emblazoned on Ono's truck is a Twitter bird and a QR code, anachronistic additions to an otherwise retro sales method and snack.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESweet potatoes originated in Central and South America, and scholars have some theories that they came to Japan in approximately the 17th Century. \"The earliest historical reference to sweet potato in Japan seems to be in the diary of Richard Cocks in 1615,\" said Eric Rath, professor of Japanese history at University of Kansas and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FJapans-Cuisines-Food-Place-Identity\u002Fdp\u002F1780236433\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's Cuisines: Food, Place and Identity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Cocks, the director of the British East India Company's outpost in Hirado, wrote that he'd received the potatoes from honorary samurai William Adams, recorded as the first English person in Japan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERath said there's some evidence they might have already been available in the Ryukyu Kingdom (today's Okinawa) as early as 1605, via the Philippines and then China. Another account holds that in 1611, Ryukyuan King Sho Nei sent a gift of sweet potatoes to Satsuma Domain, a powerful political entity in southern Kyushu, which had invaded his kingdom and taken over his land – one result of which is that the orange tubers sometimes still bear the name \u003Cem\u003Esatsuma-imo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (potato from Satsuma).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of their path to get there, over time, roasted sweet potatoes proved very popular in Japan. Stalls were set up at the main guard buildings in post towns along important highways, and their sweetness and aroma – and their affordability – caught on. Signs at stalls sometimes advertised them as \"\u003Cem\u003Ekuri-yori-umai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (better than chestnuts). \"In Tokyo, many ate them mixed with \u003Cem\u003Eokayu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (porridge made of rice and barley),\" Rath said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe snack became so well-loved that on 8 May 1891, Tokyo newspaper Yomiuri Shimbun called them \"the \u003Cem\u003Ekasutera\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [Portuguese-inspired sponge cake] for students and the \u003Cem\u003Eyōkan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [a hard, jelly-like sweet made from red beans] for alley society.\" The insinuation was that cooked sweet potatoes were a worthy, cheap alternative to otherwise refined sweet treats available at the time. As the century turned, students started influencing the way sweet potatoes were prepared. \u003Cem\u003EDaigaku-imo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (university sweet potatoes) were wedges slathered in molasses, so named because they were originally sold and eaten in Kanda, near Tokyo University. \"By 1905, there were 1,300 yaki-imo places in Tokyo,\" Rath said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs yaki-imo became a staple winter food for low-income areas, sweet potato specialty stores and vendors boomed in the early 20th Century. But in 1942, the wartime Staple Food Control Act rationed the sale of various foods, including rice and sweet potatoes, and many sweet potato shops were closed. Nevertheless, they became a key staple during World War Two, when crops like wheat and barley were even scarcer. \"Sweet potato flour was used as a substitute for wheat flour,\" Rath explained. \"From 1944, public lands were converted into potato patches, and sweet potatoes would replace the meagre rice allotments in public rations by 1945.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFollowing a post-war revision to the Staple Food Control Act, which released sweet potatoes from government regulation, vendors returned to the streets. They soon started to use a small oven fitted directly onto the back of the kei trucks, and these peaked in popularity over the next couple of decades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Yaki-imo served as a kind of fast food for the common people until around 1970, when American-style snack foods and fast-food restaurants began to appear in Japan,\" Tanaka said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOno's success, however, is proof that the classic food still has a following. \"It is a tradition of autumn and winter in Japan,\" he said, adding that his sales average around 100 yaki-imo per day, and his customer base stretches from seven to 90 years old.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOno credited the continued popularity of roasted sweet potatoes not only to their longstanding heritage, but also to the fact that they're a healthy, unadulterated and comforting fast food – particularly in the midst of the pandemic. \"Since people have been spending more time at home, the focus has very much been on easy-to-purchase health foods, and many customers have visited the truck,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKamatani has found success too, but by going a different way. For her, she felt that the snack's old-school image needed to change. \"Young women like sweet potatoes, but they have this image as 'old-fashioned' or 'lame', and people think 'I want to eat them, but they're embarrassing to buy',\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo subvert that reputation, she focused on \u003Cem\u003Eonkochishin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – an idiom meaning \"learning new ideas from the past\" – and started her venture with a stylish, tricked-out, pink VW campervan in 2018. Fast-forward to 2021, and her business has moved into a permanent (and still pink) storefront in the fashionable Omotesando district of Tokyo. \"All of the sales staff, the imo [potato] girls and imo boys, are influencers,\" she explained. \"They're cool, fashionable young men and women.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite Kamitani's modern approach, she recognised the allure of those old-school vendors. \"I don't think [they] will disappear,\" she said. \"Because they are 'rare', there are some customers who are fascinated by that sense of rarity and want to buy from them, so there is a certain demand.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those willing, starting a yaki-imo truck is relatively easy. Unlike other gastronomic enterprises in Japan, no food licence is needed – only a permit to sell from the truck. There's even a company called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.yakiimo.org\u002Fproducts.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYaki-imo Kobo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Yaki-imo Workshop) that provides information for potential vendors and sells everything they'll need to set up a mobile shop – including cassette tapes of the yaki-imo song.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think there's a growing appreciation and nostalgia for food vendors that will allow them to continue,\" Rath said. \"The yaki-imo seller is one of the harbingers of the seasons... It's hard to imagine an urban landscape without them.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Tanaka, the secret is simplicity: roasted sweet potatoes are naturally sweet and can be eaten straight off the coals. It's nutritious, filling and \"a great snack alternative to junk food\", she said. \"Yaki-imo is and always will be a heart-warming treat that holds many fond memories.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-05-19T00:52:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The endurance of Japan's simple street snack","headlineShort":"Japan's simple, centuries-old snack","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"35.6681621","longitude":"139.6004401","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Eaten right off the coals, yaki-imo (roasted sweet potatoes) are a beloved centuries-old food, whether they're served by old-fashioned street vendors or modern \"imo\" girls and boys.","summaryShort":"It's a straightforward street food with an iconic theme song","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-18T22:19:43.38136Z","entity":"article","guid":"ae1501f3-878b-46f6-b3b5-c3c9df636557","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-20T17:09:35.314407Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396263},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b255f5cf911","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstephanie-zubiri"],"bodyIntro":"While yakitori and satay may be better known, the Philippines has their very own charcoal-grilled delicacies – whose distinctively sweet and tangy flavour unites the nation.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELate afternoon sun seeped through the cracks of the mid-rise buildings, casting a golden glow on the gritty side streets of Metro Manila. Here, on the fringes of the Makati and Pasay business districts, kitschy jeepneys, whizzing motorcycles and rickety tricycles shuttled daily commuters through the snaking lanes. As always, the unmistakably sweet scent of charred barbecue perfumed the air, wafting from smoky coals being fanned on the roadsides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIhaw-Ihaw,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E which literally translates from Tagalog as \"grill-grill\", is one of the most popular cooking techniques in the Philippines. \"Grilling is integral to local cuisine because a lot of rural cooking makes use of wood and charcoal,\" explained Chef Jordy Navarra of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftoyoeatery.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EToyo Eatery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, named one of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theworlds50best.com\u002Fasia\u002Fen\u002Fthe-list\u002F41-50\u002FToyo-Eatery.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's Top 50 Best Restaurants in 2021\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Because of this, I think the whole idea of \u003Cem\u003Eihaw\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is at the centre of a lot of Filipino food. It's a way of cooking that is simple, and can be done wherever you are, especially if you have no access to gas or electricity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe regional incarnations of grilled seafood and meats are manifold, from the lemongrass- and annatto-marinated \u003Cem\u003Einasal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E from the Ilonggo region to the headier, peanutty \u003Cem\u003Esatti \u003C\u002Fem\u003Efrom Zamboanga province. However, nothing is more ubiquitous than the classic, skewered version fondly known as Pinoy BBQ (Pinoy is the shortened, colloquial word for Filipino).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ccbkg9"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhether bought from a street vendor, eaten at a child's birthday party or ordered at one of the country's top tables, this barbecue is an iconic favourite across the nation. \"Pinoy BBQ is one of those dishes that stands out when recounting my memories of food growing up,\" Navarra said. \"Celebratory cooking in my family's household always included some form of grilled food. My \u003Cem\u003Elola\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (grandmother) used to run a \u003Cem\u003Epalengke\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (wet market), and outside it were barbecue joints that we would always buy from. To this day, it's still one of our go-to foods, whatever the occasion may be.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough it's broadly popular, it comes in many varieties: approachable pork or chicken skewers; the more adventurous \u003Cem\u003Eisaw \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(intestines); \u003Cem\u003EBetamax \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(rectangles of coagulated pig's blood that resemble the 1980s AV tapes); and \u003Cem\u003EAdidas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (chicken feet, colloquially named after the famed sneaker brand). But all Pinoy BBQ has one thing in common: the marinade. Made with soy sauce, \u003Cem\u003Ecalamansi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (an indigenous, fragrant citrus fruit), banana ketchup and lemon-lime soda, and served with a dipping sauce of spicy vinegar, the result is a chargrilled treat with the distinctive sweet and tangy flavour Filipinos love.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile there is no record of the precise origins of this unique marinade, it is widely acknowledged that the trend of preparing barbecue in this manner began in 1950s Metro Manila before expanding to other urban centres. This was at the height of American cultural influence, a phenomenon that has its roots in the American colonial period in the Philippines (1898–1946), which then flourished due to a continued strong military presence in the country. Some hypothesise that the sauce is meant to emulate the smoky, zesty and rich flavours of the barbecue glazes from the American South.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPinoy BBQ's distinctive sweetness and caramelisation comes from two integral, albeit unusual, ingredients: ketchup and soda. These were introduced during the American Commonwealth Era in the mid 1930s and popularised post-World War Two. \"Somehow, locals perceived that imported elements such as soda and ketchup would lend 'deliciousness' to a dish because they are 'imported' and 'from America',\" explained Ige Ramos, food historian and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.anvilpublishing.com\u002Fshop-anv\u002Fnew_releases\u002Fnew_tradebooks\u002Flasa-ng-republika-dila-at-bandila-english\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDila at Bandila: Search for the National Palate of the Philippines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ccbkfq"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the scarcity of tomatoes during WW2 led to the invention, mass production and popularisation of banana ketchup, a local and less-expensive alternative to the American condiment that's made from bananas, vinegar and spices. Its sweeter profile appeals to many, making it a mainstay on the tables of all Filipino homes and giving a distinctly candied quality to the BBQ glaze.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd what of the lemon-lime soda? \"I would have thought the primary purpose of using 7UP was to mask the strong smell of meat that had been exposed to the elements,\" Ramos said, \"but street food vendors swear by the efficacy of carbonated water to tenderise cheap cuts of meat.\" He explained that in the marinating process, the sugar and citrus flavours create a crunchy, caramelised film on the meat, especially around the fat, after it has been grilled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"One can also presume that it's this very marinade that defined the urban Filipino taste buds with a preference for sweet-tasting food,\" Ramos said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There is an emotional and almost spiritual quality to barbecue","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBBQ vendors ply their trade from street side stalls at transportation hubs and simple tables and grills placed outside homes, churches and school yards – as well as at more established restaurant chains and via delivery services. Aside from its comforting taste, the appeal of barbecue lies in its value for money, with a skewer ranging from just 12 to 50 pesos (£0.18 to £0.75). According to Micky Fenix-Macabenta, president of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Ffwap.ph\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFood Writers Association of the Philippines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the well-loved snack is not merely something to eat, but a way of life. \"Barbecue has a culture of its own,\" she said. \"It's a place where people gather, interact and share stories. Often you'll find these stalls grouped together in a plaza or on a street corner, and late in the afternoon it's a very vibrant scene.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERamos agrees. \"There is an emotional and almost spiritual quality to barbecue,\" he said. \"It can be shared with friends for a birthday party along with \u003Cem\u003Elumpiang shanghai \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(spring rolls) and \u003Cem\u003Epansit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (noodles)\u003Cem\u003E; \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eit serves as \u003Cem\u003Epulutan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (bar snacks) for happy hour and when dining alone, it still conjures happy memories.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ccbkfb"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile there are myriad places to try Pinoy BBQ, and everyone has their favourite spot, Ramos recommends \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FAlingSosing2021\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAling Sosing's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Pasay. When we visited, the \u003Cem\u003Ecarinderia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E was packed full of ravenous diners with a long queue that wound up the street. A slim, energetic man was at the grill, darting quickly amidst the bellows of thick smoke, clicking his tongs rhythmically while flipping and dispatching charred whole tilapia, glistening pork belly strips and skewers of barbecued pork.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEstablished in the 1970s, the business is still family-owned, with Aling Sosing's daughter-in-law, Gemma, and granddaughter, Mimay, running the show. \"My grandmother started small, serving breakfast and a few dishes like \u003Cem\u003Enilagang baka \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(boiled beef soup) for jeepney and taxi drivers,\" said Mimay. \"Slowly, she kept adding more dishes, and people from the offices in Makati would cross over to eat here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe mood was festive, and every table had some kind of grilled specialty, shared family-style alongside mountains of rice, bowls of broth and myriad condiments such as fresh bird's eye chilli, soy sauce and vinegar. Their skewers and \u003Cem\u003Eliempo \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(pork belly) had a salty profile, with more umami than many places, making it a perfect \u003Cem\u003Eulam\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (main dish) rather than a simple snack.\u003Cspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite serving up a more savoury, high-end version of BBQ at Toyo (using three cuts of pork and an ultra-concentrated reduction glaze to highlight the meaty flavours), Navarra remains a big fan of the classic street version. \"I like to discover places recommended by my colleagues, and our master bread baker, Sherwin, introduced me to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FAling+Bebeng's+BBQ\u002F@14.5522281,121.0118441,15z\u002Fdata=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xd07a36f9e2558b20!8m2!3d14.5522566!4d121.0118389?shorturl=1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAling Bebeng's BBQ\u003C\u002Fa\u003E,\" he explained. Located on the corner of Makati's Washington and Roosevelt Streets, the small charcoal grill, flanked by a table and a few stools, is one of the most popular \u003Cem\u003Ebarbecuhans \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(street grills) in Metro Manila due to the extra-sweet marinade and tender, plump cuts of meat. \"It's become a favourite haunt for \u003Cem\u003Emerienda \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a late afternoon snack) for the whole Toyo team,\" Navarra said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0ccbk8c"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere's a social etiquette with unspoken rules about enjoying your Pinoy BBQ street-side. Large vats of spiced vinegar sit alongside the grill where diners can dunk their fare. Double dipping is not allowed for the tightly skewered pork BBQ, but larger chunks such as Betamax can be moved apart and re-submerged, as long as it has never touched your lips.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you are Filipino, you will like it because of its sweet and nostalgic flavours","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhether an office worker, jeepney driver or student, people from all walks of life stand side-by-side at these stalls on a daily basis to enjoy these practical and delicious treats. Pinoy BBQ is the great equaliser. \"It crosses the social divide,\" Fenix-Macabenta said. \"If you are Filipino, you will like it because of its sweet and nostalgic flavours.\"  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd although it can be enjoyed anytime, anywhere, the consensus is that barbecue is best fresh off the coals, on the street. \"Everyone has a shared experience when going to a barbecue stall, from picking out which skewers you want to eat, to watching and waiting as the meat is cooked, then dunking them into vinegar,\" said Navarra. \"It's an experience that so many people can relate to, wherever in the country you are.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fasia-fast-food"],"disableAdverts":true,"displayDate":"2022-06-13T20:27:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The sweet flavours of Pinoy BBQ","headlineShort":"A sweet Asian spin on BBQ","image":["p0ccbkgf"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"14.5995","longitude":"120.9842","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0ccbkgf"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170706-what-the-philippines-can-teach-us-about-giving","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220518-japans-beloved-sweet-potato-vendors"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While yakitori and satay may be better known, the Philippines has their very own charcoal-grilled delicacies – whose distinctively sweet and tangy flavour unites the nation.","summaryShort":"Creative street chefs turned imported American ingredients into an iconic snack","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-12T20:36:45.503856Z","entity":"article","guid":"a976634c-8eb9-40c8-8051-acd6d56656b9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-04T05:25:56.264985Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fphilippines","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_philippines_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396260},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves","_id":"62b4203c1f4b7b29297fd86c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs I walked up the stairs and stepped inside \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.mezamalonga.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMeza Malonga\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, I was instantly drawn into the chic, minimalistic dining room. White brick walls were accented with leafy plants, bold paintings and wooden shelves framing decorative gourds, beaded necklaces, woven baskets and earthen ceramics from around the African continent. Windows opened to a mesmerising view over the lush hills of Kigali, a vivid green by day and aglow with the twinkling lights of houses by night. A few wooden tables were spread out across the intimate space as soulful lyrics and low strums of the \u003Cem\u003Engoni \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a traditional stringed Malian instrument) reverberated in the background. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Meza Malonga isn't a restaurant; it's a home where people come to experience food,\" said chef \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dieuveilmalonga.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDieuveil Malonga\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as he welcomed me. Tucked into quiet streets of the Remera neighbourhood in Kigali, Rwanda, it's also an innovative synthesis of food and storytelling infused with African culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Bantu language, \u003Cem\u003Emeza\u003C\u002Fem\u003E means \"table\". What's on Malonga's table then? Each day brings a new array of colourful creations, crafted from the fresh bounties of the season. The menu is ever-evolving as the chef refines his concept of Pan-African cuisine. From sorghum bread topped with delicate white moringa flowers and whipped avocado cream to shrimp dusted in nutty ground \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fark-of-taste-slow-food\u002Fakpi\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edjansang seeds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, each carefully curated course tells a story – or two – about Africa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe drought-resistant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220408-the-return-of-balis-lost-superfood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emoringa plant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is native to Africa (and Asia). The \u003Cem\u003Edjansang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E seeds originate from Cameroon. The shrimp is sourced from the shores of Mombasa, Kenya. And the sorghum grain has 5,000-year-old roots in Ethiopia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMalonga blends culinary influences from the Maasai, Bantu and Xhosa peoples – and beyond – as he interprets their diverse flavours, ingredients, history and ecosystems to create an Afro-fusion gastronomic experience. His culinary ethos: to incorporate indigenous ingredients from across the continent into recipes originally made by grandmothers – and elevate them using modern techniques.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"One of my favourite parts of running Meza Malonga is when people who know African cuisine say that my food reminds them of something they ate when they were young, something made by their grandmother,\" Malonga said. \"That is so amazing to me.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMy eyes were drawn to rows of glass bottles filled with bright orange, pink and yellow liquids. \"This is an experiment that isn't quite ready,\" Malonga said. \"We are fermenting passionfruit, tree tomato [a local Rwandan fruit deeply red in colour and loosely resembling a plum] and other juices from local fruits. For this project, we use old recipes we find here in Rwanda. We travel between villages and learn how to ferment sorghum, maize, banana and other fruits.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo far, he has experimented with more than 25 ingredients, drawing on a traditional process that involves fermenting fruits and grains with spices such as \u003Cem\u003Embongo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [also known as alligator pepper] from Cameroon, or sorghum, for up to a week. After removing the spices, he pasteurises the liquid, which has by now become alcoholic. Eventually, Malonga hopes to pair each of these homemade liquors with a food course.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese rural areas don't always have electricity, so food preservation is very important. In addition to fermentation, Malonga has also learned how to dry vegetables, fish and meat, which he said not only preserves the food but also \"enhances flavours\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough he was born in the Republic of Congo, Malonga moved to Germany when he was 13, where he longed for his grandmother's cooking from back home and reminisced over ingredients like cassava leaves, okra, wild mango and pineapple. From a young age, he had a distinct love for food, and it was an obvious choice to follow a culinary career. By age 15, he enrolled in culinary school at Adolph-Kolping-Berufskolleg in Munster, Germany. Although he later worked in some of Germany's Michelin-star restaurants, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnelson-mueller.de\u002Fpages\u002Fschote\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchote\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ritzcarlton.com\u002Fen\u002Fhotels\u002Fgermany\u002Fwolfsburg\u002Fdining\u002Faqua?scid=bb1a189a-fec3-4d19-a255-54ba596febe2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAqua\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and La Vie, where he quickly moved up the ranks, he dreamt of opening his own place, one that reflected the flavours and memories of his childhood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUpon returning to Africa in his mid-20s, Malonga began exploring different regions and became inspired by the diversity and breadth of ingredients and culinary traditions. For two years, from 2015 to 2017, he travelled to 48 African countries to learn about the continent's complex and diverse web of food cultures found in the fields, the villages and the way food is celebrated.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMalonga was particularly inspired by West African nations. Cameroon was the first country he visited upon his return, which he described as being \"like Africa in one country\". He said, \"They have such amazing food diversity and use many ingredients and spices. It is like artistry. The ecosystems they have are so diverse. In the north, it is a desert, in the middle it is rainforest, in the south is the Congo River.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMalonga was also amazed by the size and diversity of Nigeria, where he fell in love with spices like \u003Cem\u003Euziza\u003C\u002Fem\u003E leaves (pale green leaves with a peppery flavour), \u003Cem\u003Eehu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E seeds (red spotted seeds with an aroma and flavour similar to nutmeg) and \u003Cem\u003Efufu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a thick, dough-like West African staple made from boiled and pounded cassava and plantain, or from cassava or maize flour. And in the Ivory Coast, he was enamoured by the fish dishes cooked in groundnut sauces and the quality of the cacao.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's not just about the dish but the stories and the way each place celebrates food that I fall in love with","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen asked about a favourite dish, he simply smiled and replied, \"It's not just about the dish but the stories and the way each place celebrates food that I fall in love with.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOf all the countries he explored, why did the chef launch Meza Malonga in Rwanda? The answer lies in Rwanda's Northern Province, with its towering mountains, volcanic lakes, lush jungle and terraced farms rich in fertile soil. \"On my first visit [in 2017], I was in love with [the region of] Musanze. With the climate, with the peace and quiet. I feel at home there,\" he said. He returned to the region each year to study the soil and climate before putting down roots and opening the Pan-African restaurant in Kigali in early 2020.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs fresh, local ingredients are key to his cuisine, Malonga also owns farms in Rwanda – one in Musanze and another in the district of Bugesera in the Eastern Province – where he grows fruit, vegetables and herbs. Rows upon rows blossom with purple sweet potatoes, black maize, okra, Malabar spinach and galangal, to name a few.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMeza Malonga doesn't have a set menu. Instead, each morning, Malonga and his team – a handful of chefs from around East Africa – draw inspiration from the fresh ingredients available that day and start experimenting in what he refers to as his \"innovation lab\": an open kitchen where guests can get a front-row view of them preparing each course with impressive precision.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Tonight, we are serving eight or nine courses – I haven't quite decided yet,\" Malonga said the day I was there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter carefully rolling ribbons of vegetables and drizzling fragrant sauces, Malonga and his team meticulously arranged intricate displays of food on ceramic plates, wooden trays filled with seeds and beds of leaves. The result was a collection of dishes that were as aesthetically appealing to the eye as they were pleasing to the palate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI slowly ate my way through an impressive succession of courses. A tomato-encrusted sorghum bread that was crisp on the outside and light and airy on the inside. An eggplant tartare with cream of red pepper topped with plantains and herbs. Plantain-stuffed ravioli paired with caramelised onion, pickled red onion, puréed beans and carrot. And that was just the beginning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter a passionfruit sorbet palate cleanser, I moved onto the main courses: grilled quail set on a base of sweet parsnip cream, fig, cucumber and hibiscus, and drizzled with a tree tomato sauce. A tender slice of beef fillet flavoured with garlic and a blend of earthy Nigerian spices served on a thin, crunchy slice of butternut squash. And finally, two desserts that included a refreshing mango sorbet topped with a delicate sweet potato foam as well as a chocolate bread accompanied by rich caramel and peanut crumbs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Chefs like Malonga are transcending global misconceptions about African food","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faliceshealthykitchen.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlice Coulson\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a chef and nutritionist who grew up in Kenya, believes that Malonga's attempt to put Pan-African cuisine on the map, through the use of ingredients and dishes sourced from so many diverse countries, is significant. \"Although increasingly chefs throughout Africa are gaining inspiration from their own countries and cultures in their cooking and producing incredible results, Malonga is the first chef to explore Pan-African cuisine on this scale in terms of his goals, his travels and the food he produces,\" she said. \"Chefs like Malonga are transcending global misconceptions about African food and are showing what the continent has to offer, which is of vital importance to put African cuisine at the forefront of gastronomy.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther chefs are also slowly contributing to the rise in Pan-African cuisine. Coulson for one is in the process of launching her own venture, ASILI (meaning \"nature\" in Swahili), through which she hopes to capture the \"massive diversity that Pan-African food offers, from subtropical South Africa to the Northern Sahara and everything in between\". ASILI will initially sell nutrition and sustainability-focused foods in Kenyan shops, but Coulson plans to eventually open a restaurant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, outside of the continent, a small but growing movement among African diaspora chefs is taking root. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alexandersmalls.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlexander Smalls\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an African American \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jamesbeard.org\u002Fchef\u002Falexander-smalls\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJames Beard\u003C\u002Fa\u003E winning chef from Harlem, New York, is bringing Pan-African cuisine to life through \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Falkebulandininghall.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlkebulan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Dubai, with plans to launch a second location in Harlem in the near future. This African food hall experience was first conceptualised at Dubai's Expo 2020 and brings together talented culinary professionals celebrating the food of African heritage through a contemporary lens \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccomplished pastry chef \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fmodernsweets\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMame Sow\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who was born in Dakar, Senegal, before relocating to New York as a teenager, is the creative mind behind Alkebulan's Shoebox Bakery. Her signature dessert and love letter to Senegal, \"Gateau Dakar\", a vanilla cake with a baobab mousse and hibiscus jam and glaze is infused with flavours that, she says, \"make me feel at home when I'm not there\". Sow admires Malonga's work and the fact that he is not only bringing African cuisine to the forefront but doing so in a sustainable way. \"People always assume African cuisine is heavy,\" she said. \"But it is one of the healthiest cuisines in the world. We are using what we locally source. We make our own spice mixes, everything is fresh.\" She said that people are taking notice of African cuisine and that it is set to be the next biggest thing in the culinary world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough just at the dawn of his career in Africa, Malonga has already made waves in the wider culinary world. As a recipient of numerous awards, including being nominated in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthebestchefawards.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBest Chef Awards\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and making the 50 Next \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theworlds50best.com\u002F50next\u002Flist\u002F2021\u002Fempowering-educators\u002Fdieuveil-malonga\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChampions of Change\u003C\u002Fa\u003E list, he has quickly risen to the top of his field. He founded \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fchefsinafrica.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChefs in Africa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to bring attention to African gastronomy and provide an educational platform for future chefs on the continent, and offers opportunities for chefs from around the world to train with him at his \"innovation lab\" at Meza Malonga. He also hopes to have a far-reaching impact in rural communities where he hires farmers and facilitates development in tourism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMalonga and his team are busy designing plans for an experimental culinary centre in Musanze that will combine sustainable farming with a farm-to-table dining experience. The result will be even more elaborate than the tasting menu at Meza Malonga, featuring 12 courses centred exclusively on Rwandan cuisine and the produce grown in Musanze. Guests will also have the opportunity to explore the farms, go fishing and otherwise immerse themselves in the region where the food they're eating is grown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Food is education and sharing. People don't eat to make themselves full. They eat for the experience, the emotions,\" he said. \"At Meza Malonga, we want international guests to come and learn about African cuisine.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"For me, Africa is the garden of the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEach year, Malonga features one or two indigenous and underutilised African ingredients on his menu to show how the products can be used creatively and with modern techniques. This year he is featuring sorghum, an ancient cereal grown in Chad and Ethiopia for more than 5,000 years, and millet, which has origins in the Sahel region of West Africa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"For me, Africa is the garden of the world. We have amazing ingredients, recipes, stories to tell behind the food and the people who make it,\" he said. \"Slowly, the world is awakening to Pan-African gastronomy.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMananasi (Pineapple in Swahili) recipe\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E (serves 4)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Chef \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EDieuveil Malonga (adapted for BBC Travel)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESpiced Pineapple \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E2 pineapples\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 vanilla pod\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E6g ground cinnamon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E6 cardamom seeds\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E6 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fqz.com\u002Fafrica\u002F690362\u002Fthe-worlds-best-peppercorn-comes-from-a-volcanic-valley-in-central-africa\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPenja pepper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E seeds (black peppercorns can be substituted)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E10g butter\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E30g brown sugar\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EClean and peel two pineapples. Cut one pineapple into pieces, and then blend it and filter out the juice. Scrape out the seeds from the vanilla pod. Pour the pineapple juice into a saucepan, and then add the vanilla seeds, cinnamon, cardamom seeds and Penja pepper seeds. Boil mixture until it is reduced to about half the original amount.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETake the other pineapple and slice it into rings. Sear the pineapple rings with butter and brown sugar until caramelized. Place the caramelized pineapple rings into the previously reduced pineapple juice, and refrigerate for 6 hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECoconut meringue \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E20g unsweetened desiccated coconut\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 large egg whites\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E40g powdered sugar\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHeat oven to 300°F (150°C). Spread the coconut on a baking sheet and bake until golden (about 5 minutes); remove from oven, and then lower oven to 200°F (95°C).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeat egg whites until they form soft peaks. Slowly sprinkle in the powdered sugar while beating until the whites are stiff and glossy. Use a pastry bag with a large tip to pipe the meringue into shapes onto an ungreased, parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle with toasted coconut and bake for 1 hour. Turn oven off and let meringues dry inside oven until crisp.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGinger caramel \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E3 tablespoons brown sugar \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 tablespoons cold water\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tablespoons heavy cream\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E10g butter\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tablespoon fresh ginger juice (made from blending fresh, peeled ginger root with water)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a small saucepan over medium heat, add sugar and salt and cover with water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring every so often until sugar is dissolved (about 5 minutes). Increase heat to medium-high and cook until deeply golden, without stirring (4 to 5 minutes more).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce caramel is a deep copper colour, turn off the heat and immediately stir in the cream, butter and ginger juice. The mixture will bubble up so be careful! Let cool slightly in pan, then transfer to a storage container to cool off completely.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETo Assemble:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPlace a pineapple ring on a plate, and then carefully arrange the meringues, ginger caramel and decorations like moringa leaves and blossoms on top of the pineapple ring. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-02T11:26:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Meza Malonga: The Afro-fusion food making waves","headlineShort":"Is this the next big food destination?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-1.9561015","longitude":"30.1033772","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From sorghum bread to shrimp dusted in ground djansang seeds, each carefully curated course at Meza Malonga tells a story – or two – about Africa.","summaryShort":"It's transcending global misconceptions about cuisine","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-01T21:23:18.853891Z","entity":"article","guid":"61585bb6-d28a-4d9b-86d8-ba965ccc561e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-07T19:19:09.87108Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best","_id":"62b420391f4b7b32e549576a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Every West African country has at least one variation of Jollof rice, and it both divides and unites the region.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith its seductive aroma, deep-red colour and spicy flavour, Jollof rice is the undisputed queen of West African kitchens. It's our beloved culinary treasure and a dish from our very heart and soul. But just whisper the word \"Jollof\" in West Africa and you could easily start a fiery feud of passion. That's because determining which West African nation makes Jollof best is an ongoing matter of local pride and contention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJollof rice is to West Africa what paella is to Spain, risotto to Italy, biriyani to India and fried rice to China. As a child growing up in Ghana, I gobbled Jollof down at family gatherings, birthdays, coming-of-age ceremonies, engagement parties and weddings. Enjoyed as a main meal, this rich, mouth-watering dish consists of rice cooked in a flavourful sauce of tomatoes, onions and aromatic spices. These base ingredients are often layered with ginger, garlic, thyme, grains of selim (a West African spice), tomato puree, curry powder and Scotch bonnet chillies, though the exact components and preparation differ from country to country; even from house to house.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile each plate of Jollof may vary, every one brings exciting flavours. The savoury sweetness of onions is very important. Seasoning is crucial. And the choice of meat – mutton, beef, chicken, goat, lamb or even fish – delivers a different deliciousness every time. The meat is spiced and delicately braised in stock until tender, before being fried and returned to the stock. Then the rice is added to the meat, stock and spicy sauce and simmered until it absorbs all the flavoursome liquid, leaving every grain aromatic, delectable and a luscious orangey-red hue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191111-where-is-malaysias-national-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's contentious rice dish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECan Rwanda's milk bars survive?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDid the Dutch steal this 'superfood'?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe origins of Jollof rice can be traced to the 1300s in the ancient Wolof Empire (also called the Jolof Empire), which spanned parts of today's Senegal, The Gambia and Mauritania. Rice farming flourished in this region, and Jollof began life as a dish called \u003Cem\u003Ethieboudienne\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, prepared with rice, fish, shellfish and vegetables. As the empire grew, the Wolof people dispersed across the region and settled in different parts of West Africa, taking their sumptuous rice dish with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite its ubiquity across the region, few foods have caused as much of a stir as Jollof rice. Today, every West African country has at least one variation of Jollof, which both divides and unites the region. Each nation and family add their own twist and interpretation, which perhaps is the root of the fierce competition taking place across social media, parties and street-side chats. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.blackfoodie.co\u002Fjollof-wars-a-west-african-saga\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlack Foodie website\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which explores food and culture through a black lens, described it as \"one of the most interesting and heated food debates amongst the diaspora… it's the most epic food beefs of all time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe main protagonists in a steam over who makes the best Jollof rice are Ghana, Nigeria, Sierra Leone, Liberia and Cameroon. The Gambia and Senegal are quite laid-back and rarely enter the Jollof controversy; after all, they gave it to the world. Myriad variations fuel the ongoing competition with as many similarities as there are differences; and with oral traditions of passing down recipes, what else could be expected?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor instance, my Ghanaian mother would stew the rice with the sauce and meat in a one-pot dish, which is, of course, my favoured preparation. Nigerians and Liberians sometimes use palm oil instead of vegetable oil to give a richer depth of flavour, especially when cooking with smoked and dried fish. In Nigeria and Cameroon, red peppers are often blended with the base ingredients of onions, tomatoes and chilli to add vibrancy and a subtle sweetness. These two nations also like to add smoked paprika to give Jollof a smoky flavour, similar to cooking over an open wood fire. A Gambian friend boasts of adding smoked snails to her Jollof, a traditional ingredient in The Gambia and Senegal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENigerian food writer Jiji Majiri Ugboma believes that \"the Jollof feud between Ghana and Nigeria is arguably the most heated food debate amongst any diaspora\". As a Ghanaian with many Nigerian friends, I couldn't agree more. These two passionate nations seem to love to hate each other, and both feel theirs is the best Jollof rice. One main difference is the type of rice used. Ghanaians use aromatic basmati rice, which gives it extra flavour, while Nigerians use long grain rice, believing that it is best for absorbing flavour. Both countries enjoy this gentle teasing, seeing it as a battle of wits where each tries to wear the other down with words.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Ironically, the feud actually brings Nigerians and Ghanaians together,\" Ugboma said. \"It is a love language between both countries and is similar to the dynamic of siblings teasing each other.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Jollof feud between Ghana and Nigeria is arguably the most heated food debate amongst any diaspora","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMusicians have joined in the banter too, with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fwatch\u002F?v=520536678728890\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAkon claiming Liberian Jollof is the best\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, even though he's from Senegal. Ghanaian musician Sister Deborah released an anthem in 2016 called Ghana Jollof with lyrics including \"Ghana Jollof, yummy; Nigerian Jollof, it is funny\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESenegalese chef Pierre Thiam, who owns \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.itsteranga.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETeranga\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant in New York City, believes that this banter is both \"playful and really serious\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I wish all wars were fought like the Jollof war. No killings! No blood,\" he said. \"I also believe that there will never be a winner. Everyone thinks that their mother makes the best. I enjoy both the Nigerian and the Ghanaian and even the Sierra Leonian Jollof dishes, but in my humble opinion, nothing compares to the original one: Senegal Jollof.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs much as West Africans enjoy these good-natured differences of opinion, there's no doubt our love for the dish can bring us together. It's easy to understand why all hell broke loose when \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fblogs-trending-29831183\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecelebrity chef Jamie Oliver cooked Jollof rice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and shared his recipe on his website in 2014. West Africans forgot that they had a Jollof war going on. Outraged, their collective response was to drop everything, hold hands and charge for Oliver's website. They may have been arguing over whose Jollof was best in West Africa, but they were not going to allow anyone to mess with their culinary treasure. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fhashtag\u002FJollofGate\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHashtags like #jollofgate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E were unleashed on Twitter. With ingredients including lemon, coriander and parsley, Oliver's Jollof was for many a twist too far, even though he stressed that his recipe was his own take on Jollof. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.executivemamaput.com\u002Fjollofgate-how-jamie-could-have-done-it\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAfricans were concerned\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that if this went unchallenged, cultural misappropriation could quite easily make Oliver's version the official Jollof rice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, by and large, the Jollof debate has been positive and has increased awareness of and interest in West African food. The top 10 fastest-growing food trends for 2020 predicted by \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.cnbc.com\u002F2019\u002F10\u002F23\u002Ftop-food-trends-for-2020-according-to-whole-foods.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhole Foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E included food from West Africa: peanuts, lemongrass and ginger; grains like teff, sorghum, fonio and millet; and the superfood moringa were all mentioned as traditional West African flavours that \"are popping up everywhere in food and in beverage\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd, as if an awakening in the diaspora, Jollof is suddenly everywhere too. Jollof food festivals have been held in Washington, DC, and Toronto, and Jollof competitions in Nigeria. World Jollof Day has been celebrated every year, on 22 August, since 2015, with photographs and videos unleashed on social media.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs African restaurants around the world become ever more mainstream, they are adding even more variations and interpretations to their Jollof offerings. London's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ikoyilondon.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIkoyi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dishes up smoked Jollof rice with crab custard; while Teranga's Jollof rice finds new form in an \"Ancient Vegan Bowl\", topped with a sweet potato and black-eyed peas stew, a kale and organic red palm fruit oil stew, and spicy plantains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith the increase in Jollof's global popularity, Thiam believes that \"We will see a growing interest for the dish and for African foods in general. Watch out for Jollof rice in your supermarket aisle.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs excited as we are about the world embracing Jollof rice, for West Africans, it is more than a colourful and tasty rice dish we enjoy arguing over: it connects to our rich heritage and is a dish that will forever remain in our hearts. Even as we draw closer together, the fire in the Jollof kitchen rages on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ffood-wars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFood Wars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture’s identity.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-06-08T00:18:05Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Jollof Wars: Who does West Africa's iconic rice dish best?","headlineShort":"The iconic rice dish people fight over","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"7.9465","longitude":"-1.0232","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Every West African country has at least one variation of Jollof rice, and it both divides and unites the region.","summaryShort":"Say the word \"Jollof\" in West Africa and you could easily start a fiery debate","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:07:15.629361Z","entity":"article","guid":"234c7385-4d77-4047-87c7-330d2f94c5ac","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T04:03:25.206982Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk","_id":"62b420391f4b7b32e953cc27","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Unique to Rwanda, milk bars reflect a little-known truth about how intrinsic cows and milk are to Rwandan culture.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09bgxsw.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E“Because I am a devoted Muslim and our teacher, Muhammad, said milk is good, I feel fulfilled by being able to provide it to people who need it [in Rwanda].” \u003Cem\u003E– Yusuf Gatikabisi, business owner\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World - 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was 10:00 in the Rwandan capital of Kigali, and an unmarked bar in the central Nyarugenge district was already packed. A line of motorcycles was parked out front, and as I pushed through a white curtain separating the dusty, dirt road from the crowd of boisterous regulars inside, the spectacled owner, Yusuf Gatikabisi smiled widely at me and said, \"\u003Cem\u003EMwaramutse!\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" – good morning in Kinyarwanda.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt the bar's four communal tables, young bikers mingled with singles and parents clutching young toddlers. Some were eating beans and unleavened chapati bread. Others were feasting on cakes or doughnuts. But interestingly, everyone was drinking the same thing, and it wasn't beer or wine. You see, at Kuruhimbi and hundreds of similar bars across Rwanda, there's only one thing on tap, and it's milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUnique and distinct to Rwanda, milk bars bind many of our communities together. They are places to meet for breakfast or lunch, to socialise with people of different backgrounds, and to throw back a frothy glass of cold \u003Cem\u003Eikivuguto\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fermented milk) poured from a vast metal drum and topped with honey or sugar or a hot mug of \u003Cem\u003Einshyushyu \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(raw milk that's boiled and served hot). While these local watering holes may seem like a kitschy neighbourhood haunt to the uninitiated, they reflect a little-known truth about how intrinsic cows and milk are to Rwandan culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith around \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Frwanda\u002Four-office-in-rwanda\u002Frwanda-at-a-glance\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E70% of Rwanda's population\u003C\u002Fa\u003E engaged in the agricultural sector, cows are an economic asset as well as a symbol of wealth and social status in rural areas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Rwanda, when you want to wish someone well, you say, \"\u003Cem\u003Egira inka\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (may you have a cow) or \"\u003Cem\u003Eamashyo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (have thousands of cows), and you'll hear the response, \"\u003Cem\u003Eamashongore\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (have thousands of female cows). When you want to express profound gratitude, you say, \"\u003Cem\u003Enguhaye inka\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (I give you a cow).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In Rwanda, when you want to wish someone well, you say, 'may you have a cow'","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany traditional Rwandan dances are also inspired by cows. In the Umushayayo, which is often characterised as a sort of Rwandan ballet, women emulate the gentle movements of cows while showing their beauty and grace. And in the Ikinyemera, Igishakamba and other dances, men and women stretch their arms upward to represent cow horns.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, cows are held in such high regard here that it's common to incorporate the animal into your child's name, with Munganyinka (valuable as a cow), Kanyana (female calf) and Giramata (have milk) – among many others – serving as popular first names in Rwanda today. And at milk bars, markets or elsewhere, if you want to make a woman blush, Rwandans might say, \"\u003Cem\u003Eufite amaso nk'ay'inyana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (you have eyes like a calf's).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Maurice Mugabowagahunde, a history and anthropology researcher at the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.museum.gov.rw\u002Findex.php?id=2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERwanda Cultural Heritage Academy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Rwandans have historically exchanged cows to mark major family milestones. Cows were traditionally given to the woman's family as part of a dowry, and when one of the cows would later give birth, the calf would be gifted to the newlyweds to help them establish their own family. Although this tradition is now only practiced in certain parts of the country, in every traditional Rwandan wedding the groom's family will still say, \"\u003Cem\u003ETubahaye ishyo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (We give you thousands of cows) or \"\u003Cem\u003ETubahaye imbyeyi n'iyayo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (We give you a female cow and its calf), even if it isn't meant literally.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMugabowagahunde explains that cows served as a form of currency in what is now Rwanda from the 15th Century until 1954, when King Mutara III Rudahigwa ended the practice. People called \"\u003Cem\u003Eabagaragu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (male servants) and \"\u003Cem\u003Eabaja\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (female servants) would work in the homes of richer families to take care of their cows and ferment the milk, among other duties, and in exchange they would be paid with cows.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210104-the-chef-preserving-canadas-indigenous-identity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200105-the-most-inviting-city-in-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe most inviting city in Africa?\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210318-why-jane-goodall-is-hopeful-in-2021\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Jane Goodall is hopeful in 2021\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210304-can-hanli-prinsloo-help-south-africa-reclaim-its-oceans\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECan Hanli Prinsloo help South Africa reclaim its oceans?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut while cows' milk has always been consumed in Rwanda, Mugabowagahunde says it was historically considered a taboo and even \"shameful\" to sell it, because it was too precious a commodity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Generally, one cow in Rwanda would produce between one to two litres [of milk] per day,\" he said. \"The milk wasn't enough for a family. This was mainly because the cows would solely depend on grass, without any supplements for them to produce more milk, like is done now.\" Therefore, since the 1600s at the order of King Mibambwe Gisanura, elite families who had cows and milk shared their supply with their poor neighbours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERwandans only started selling milk in the early 1900s when the nation was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-africa-14093322\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecolonised by the German Empire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Rwandans were forced to travel long distances to build roads, schools and churches as part of German East Africa. South Sudanese, Ugandan and Tanzanian merchants who travelled with the Germans started selling milk to the labourers (that they bought from locals who lived near the work sites) as a way to offer them nutrition far from their homes. As Rwandans soon realised it wasn't taboo to buy and sell milk, they started selling it to each other, first in open-air markets, and then, starting in about 1907, in dedicated enclosed shops – the forerunners of the modern-day milk bar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The milk-selling business became bigger in 1937 when King Rudahigwa inaugurated the Nyabisindu milk plant, the very first of its kind. They would buy milk from people, preserve it and sell it, alongside other dairy products like cheese and yoghurt,\" Mugabowagahunde said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStill, a milk scarcity lingered in Rwanda for most of the 20th Century. According to Mugabowagahunde, a 1961 \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.beep.ird.fr\u002Fcollect\u002Feismv\u002Findex\u002Fassoc\u002FTD88-1.dir\u002FTD88-1.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estudy by Joseph Rwanyagahutu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E found that an average Rwandan only consumed 12 litres of milk per year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"This scarcity started reducing in the late 1980s, when the government started importing improved dairy cows like the Holstein Friesian cattle,\" Mugabowagahunde said. But tragically, an estimated \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsites.unicef.org\u002Fequity\u002Farchive\u002Findex_65274.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E90%\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of Rwanda's cattle were slaughtered during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-africa-26875506\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E1994 genocide\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Rwandan government introduced the nationwide Girinka (literally: 'may you have cows') programme","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs Kigali became increasingly urbanised following the genocide and residents in the capital were no longer had as much space to keep cows, dedicated milk bars began popping up as a way to offer urban residents an alternative to the powdered or pasteurised milk they purchased from stores. Traditionally, the raw and boiled milk consumed and preferred by Rwandans was always kept in a separate room from alcohol because it was considered sacred. Thus, as the nation pieced itself back together in the late-1990s, the modern milk bar became a dedicated establishment where thick ikivuguto and yellow-tinted inshyushyu milk is served, and booze is nowhere in sight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMugabowagahunde estimates that the number of milk bars was at the peak between 1998 and 2000. However, while Rwanda's love for cows goes deep, our independent milk bars are slowly disappearing, as more people are turning to supermarkets for watered-down, pasteurised milk sold in larger 0.5 and 1 litre cartons, which can last much longer than ikivuguto and inshyushyu. What's more, in 2006, the Rwandan government introduced the nationwide \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.rgb.rw\u002Findex.php?id=171\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGirinka\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (literally: \"may you have cows\") programme, where poor families are given cows as a way to fight child malnutrition. As of 2020, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.minagri.gov.rw\u002Ffileadmin\u002Fuser_upload\u002FMinagri\u002FPublications\u002FAnnual_Reports\u002FAnnual_report_2019-20_FY_.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ean estimated 400,000 cows have\u003C\u002Fa\u003E been distributed, and while this has been undoubtedly beneficial, it's meant fewer Rwandans need to fill up at their local milk bar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYvette Murekatete, who runs Gira Amata milk bar in Kigali's south-eastern Kicukiro district, thinks business is not as profitable as when she first opened in 2009 because some of her clients have resorted to pasteurised milk sold in stores. Others have ventured to the nearly \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.inyangeindustries.com\u002Fcontact-us.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E80 milk bar franchises\u003C\u002Fa\u003E created by Rwanda's Inyange Industries that have popped up in Kigali since 2013. To combat the reduced profits, Murekatete says that many independent milk bar owners have started selling food and upgrading their business to supermarkets or coffee shops.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, the government encourages Rwandans to rear their cattle in enclosed \u003Cem\u003Ekraal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E villages or on large livestock farms away from residential areas as part of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fscripts.farmradio.fm\u002Fradio-resource-packs\u002Fpackage-89\u002Fbreeding-cows-in-a-zero-grazing-system-can-be-a-dual-environmental-solution\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eits zero-grazing system\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to reduce greenhouse gas emmissions. Since fewer people now raise cows at their homes, the cost of milk has increased. Nevertheless, people like Murekatete and Gatikabisi ensure that this once-scarce commodity is available to all who need it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGatikabisi opens Kuruhimbi every day at 06:00, and by 09:00, it's almost always full. That is also when a bicycle arrives carrying two metal drums filled with raw milk. Some of the milk is kept in Kuruhimbi's cooler to be boiled the next morning, while the rest is boiled immediately. At night, part of the boiled milk – which has since cooled – is put into a container after its top cream has been removed. \"\u003Cem\u003EImvuzo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (a small amount of fermented milk) is added to the milk to act as a fermentation starter. The milk is then kept in a warm place overnight to speed up the fermentation, and in the morning, the now-thick ikivuguto is refrigerated and served cold.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EUruhimbi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" refers to a raised platform in homes where milk is kept, and Gatikabisi says he wanted to name Kuruhimbi after the term so that everyone in the neighbourhood would know that there will always be fresh milk when they come.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I love the milk here","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPascal Kubwimana, a taxi-moto operator who has been coming to Kuruhimbi almost every day for two years says he is not going anywhere. “I love the milk here,\" he said, washing down his chapati bread and beans with a litre of hot milk. \"It helps me feel good all day when I have it for breakfast. I even take some at home in the evening. My children love it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis sentiment is echoed by Dominic Dushimimana, another Kuruhimbi regular. He says that spending time at the bar helps him relax away from the pressures of work.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGatikabisi believes that not adding any water or other additives to his milk is what makes people love it. Kuruhimbi also makes its own unleavened chapatibread and doughnuts, which pair well with both cold, fermented ikivuguto and boiled inshyushyu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I feel honoured to be in the milk business because milk is sacred,\" Gatikabisi said from behind the bar. \"I don't make so much profit, but I love it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca title=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk-19"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-03-24T15:34:57Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Where people go to bars to drink milk","headlineShort":"Can Rwanda's unique milk bars survive?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-1.935114","longitude":"30.082111","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Unique to Rwanda, milk bars reflect a little-known truth about how intrinsic cows and milk are to Rwandan culture.","summaryShort":"Unique and distinct to this nation, milk bars bind communities together","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:03:33.512198Z","entity":"article","guid":"c52867a5-cd51-409f-b6b3-fe6a54a37417","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:24:37.531694Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b2e6d6bc9b4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famelia-martyn-hemphill--mariama-wurie"],"bodyIntro":"Sierra Leone recently got its first traditional fine-dining restaurant: a buzzing oasis where West African history and culture meet haute cuisine.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECooking, as well as intergenerational storytelling, is a deeply rooted part of Sierra Leone's rich heritage. Preparing food and sharing family recipes forges a connection to ancestors, friends and community. But it's something that's usually only celebrated at home, with loved ones. If you don't have a generous auntie to cook you a spicy \u003Cem\u003Ekrain-krain\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (leaf stew) with smoked fish or \u003Cem\u003Efoofoo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sticky dough made from fermented, pounded cassava), then good luck trying to get a taste of this intriguing cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocal favourites include \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ejollof rice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with tender beef stew, sweet plantain and \u003Cem\u003Ebinch\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (black-eyed beans), and groundnut soup, but as younger generations leave the rural provinces for city life and fast food, many of the punchy and complex flavours of the country's traditional dishes have quietly faded from public view or been forgotten entirely – until now.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince November 2021, a new restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.colestreetguesthouse.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Cole Street Guest House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, has put Sierra Leone's ancestral flavours front and centre, creating a buzzing oasis where history and culture meet haute cuisine. It's the country's first gourmet restaurant to be dedicated entirely to the nation's traditional dishes, celebrating the legacy of the country's 16 ethnic groups (or tribes). But there's also a special sort of magic at the Cole Street Guest House, where intricate family recipes passed down through generations of mothers and grandmothers are taking the spotlight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a small, tiled courtyard in the capital city of Freetown, Chef Miatta Marke skilfully gathers chillies, \u003Cem\u003Epatmingi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a Sierra Leonean basil) and collard greens for her chopping board from a colourful kitchen garden. She opened Cole Street determined to capture the spirit of her childhood community of Murray Town, which had been led and fed by powerful women who had endured wars, raised families and made history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cchx8r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe women in Marke's family are part of this legacy. Cole Street's mid-20th-Century building, with its outdoor courtyard and kitchen garden, originally belonged to Marke's grandmother, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Facademicinfluence.com\u002Fpeople\u002Flati-hydeforster\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELati Hyde-Forster MBE\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who was the first woman in Sierra Leone to graduate from university. She was hazed for being the only woman there, but went on to become the first female African school principal in the country. Marke and her cousins were born and raised in their grandmother's house, planting the sprawling java apple tree that now shades restaurant diners.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a young teenager, Marke moved to England and settled in rainy Brighton with her mother, who was a paediatric doctor. Marke became a human rights lawyer, working for the UN and later specialising in women's rights cases. But over the years, her daydreams of Sierra Leonean sunshine mingled with thoughts of the spiced red snapper and tangy \u003Cem\u003Eogiri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fermented oil seed) soup her grandmother used to make, leaving her pining for home. Despite her legal career in the UK, she decided to return in 2021 to her late grandmother's home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMarke started cooking at age eight, learning from her grandmother and later developing her skills further on her own. Travelling extensively with her mother through Sierra Leone's rural provinces, she would note down unique ingredients and cooking techniques, garnering knowledge from everyone she could. She would then spend hours testing recipes, recreating local specialities and adding her own flair. Marke's mission was a simple one: to serve Sierra Leone its own food, something that was missing from Freetown's restaurants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cchx8c"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBefore Cole Street, the city offered only a range of higher-end eateries, but the overwhelming majority were foreign-owned or attached to international hotels, serving intercontinental dishes. While some local favourites like cassava bread or \u003Cem\u003Eplasas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (green leaf stews) could be found at informal street stalls known as \u003Cem\u003Ekukry\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, you'd be lucky to find one traditional dish on most restaurant menus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"My soul died a little bit every time I'd go into what was considered a fancy restaurant in Freetown","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"My soul died a little bit every time I'd go into what was considered a fancy restaurant in Freetown, and there would be little or no Sierra Leonean food on the menu,\" Marke said. \"I think on a subliminal level, that messaging really destroys the self-esteem of Sierra Leoneans around their food culture.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn contrast, ancestral stories infuse Cole Street's walls and recipes. A regal portrait of Marke's grandmother watches over the guesthouse diners. And the restaurant's \u003Cem\u003Ehuntu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E recipe (see below) is a nod to the Fulani tribal heritage of her great-great-grandmother, Aminata Bah, who, as a young girl, escaped from a slave ship and settled in Ghana, before uprooting her life and moving to Sierra Leone when she met her husband. The steamed cornmeal dumplings made of spring onions – with a parsley-chilli, prawn-and-lobster stuffing – are a warming mouthful that tastes both decadent and fresh. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cchx8m"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Marke, eating at Cole Street should feel like coming home to your mother's kitchen. \"The ethos is about just being really generous – generosity in terms of portions, generosity in terms of that feeling that you want the guests to leave the restaurant with,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe powerful influence of her ancestors is interwoven with playful modern flavour pairings. \u003Cem\u003EFoorah \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eis a sweet treat traditionally prepared at ceremonies to honour the dead 40 days after their passing. Cole Street's version of the delicate, steamed rice-flour dumplings, akin to the Japanese mochi, are laid around a small ceramic bowl of tamarind-caramel dipping sauce and sprinkled with an ethereal sugar dusting. The sweet sharpness of the sauce cuts through the soft texture of the dessert, which has amassed a loyal following.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen there's the \u003Cem\u003Eacheke\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a hearty main course with a base of \u003Cem\u003Egarri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a coarse granular flour) that's topped with red snapper, tempura oysters, grilled tiger prawns, fried plantains and scotch bonnet chillies. Cole Street's intricate soups – a blending of steamed leaves, herbs, spices and smoked creatures of the sky, land and sea – are boiled for days to reach the richest texture possible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I describe [Sierra Leonean food] as having complex layers of flavour,\" Marke said. \"It surprises you in the same mouthful several times. It's pungent, it's strong, it's punchy, but it also can evoke memories, I think. It always says something.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cchx4m"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn old provincial ritual of toasting slices of smoky cassava over an open fire before slathering them with melted butter and wild honey most recently captured Marke's imagination. Her tribute was a crumbly, sweet cassava drop scone adorned with malted-milk ice cream. The humble cassava gets a starring role on the menu elsewhere too, elevated from a simple starch to Cole Street's now locally famous \"cassava bread\" tortillas, filled with grilled mackerel, crispy minnows, mango and ground chilli.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMarke is one of several trailblazing female chefs from Sierra Leone grabbing attention for their bold flavours. Fatmata Binta's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffulanitestkitchen.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFulani Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"dine on a mat\" experience started off in Accra, Ghana, and has now been recreated in top restaurants around the world. Her creations pay tribute to West Africa's most well-known and financially prosperous nomadic herdsmen, the Fulani people, and won her the prestigious Rising Star accolade at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthebestchefawards.com\u002F2021\u002F03\u002F18\u002Ffatmata-binta\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2021 Global Best Chef Awards\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fshwenshwenbymaria\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaria Bradford\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is enchanting the UK market with her high-end, fine dining experience \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fshwenshwen.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShwen Shwen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which means \"fancy\" or \"gourmet\" in the Krio language. \"My mission was to connect people through food and construct a platform on which others can build,\" explained Bradford. \"It's great to see others rising up, following their dreams and amplifying our culture with their passion.\" Bradford's debut cookbook Sweet Salone will be launched in September 2022. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHonouring the country's 16 tribes is an important part of Cole Street's mission. Like the majority of Sierra Leoneans, Marke herself hails from a mixture of tribes. Her great-great-grandmother was Fulani, her parents are Krio and she was named after her mother's Mende best friend.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cchx6t"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I find it remarkable that for a country with so many tribes – each with their distinct languages and practices – not only has Sierra Leone never had any tribal-related conflicts, but we also intermarry and get along very well. Our food also celebrates that,\" Marke said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECole Street's most popular dish is the jerk goat, a 35-year-old family recipe preserved as it was originally written. The lightly spiced meat is impossibly tender, served with a generous portion of rice and black-eyed peas. It has the feel of a joyful wedding feast, dressed up with sweet plantain and a pawpaw-and-cucumber salsa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My dad's family are the Contons [a historical Sierra Leonean family] who hail from the West Indies,\" Marke explained. \"It seems like an anomaly in the menu, but it's also part of our Creole food story.\" These are recipes of resilience – each one acknowledging a complex history of mixing, adapting and surviving that has passed down through generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I really want to bring a sense of pride to the neighbourhood, and to bring a sense of pride to our Sierra Leonean cuisine","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow a mother to her own daughter, who is studying at university, Marke is determined to continue the history of female empowerment and voracious learning that her ancestors began. The restaurant is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays for the mostly female staff to attend further education and vocational training.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cchx8t"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I wanted to employ women who are local, and who either face challenges or have managed to overcome adversity,\" she explained. \"This is the Sierra Leonean family way that is not just in our menu but our ethos too.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECole Street is also committed to local food sovereignty, despite the logistical challenges of Sierra Leone's patchy infrastructure, water shortages and frequent power outages. Marke granted usage of 27 acres of farmland upcountry to an association of women and children at risk, who now sell their farming produce to the restaurant. For Marke, success is about staying connected to community and honouring the sustainable food practices of the generations that came before. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I really want to bring a sense of pride to the neighbourhood,\" she concluded, \"and to bring a sense of pride to our Sierra Leonean cuisine.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECole Street has been fully booked since its opening, drawing in crowds of young professionals, families, tourists, expats and older couples hungry for Sierra Leonean nostalgia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cchx3x"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EHuntu recipe\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E (serves 4-6)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Chef Miatta Marke (adapted for BBC's World's Table)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPrawn stock\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDiscarded prawn heads (from dumpling prep below)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 tbsp vegetable oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 medium white onion, roughly chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 garlic cloves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 bay leaves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp peppercorns\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tsp salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 cups water\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPeel and de-vein prawns (set aside for dumplings). Sauté prawn heads and chopped white onion in vegetable oil over high heat, crushing and breaking apart the prawn heads, until the onion starts to caramelise. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAdd garlic cloves, bay leaves, peppercorns, salt and water. Lower to medium heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Sieve and set aside the resulting stock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EDumplings\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E2 cups medium cornmeal\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 medium white onions, either minced or finely chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 red habanero chillies, deseeded and either minced or finely chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E½ cup of vegetable oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 kg peeled and de-veined prawns\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 cup sliced spring onions\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 lobster tail, medium diced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EPrawn stock (reserved from above)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ESalt and pepper\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToast cornmeal on medium heat, stirring briskly, until warmed through and giving off a slightly toasted aroma. The colour of the cornmeal should not darken beyond one shade, if at all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESauté chopped white onions and chillies in vegetable oil over medium heat until onions are translucent, starting to caramelise and have lost their \"raw\" smell. Set aside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFinely chop prawns until they start to stick together but are not completely smooth. Combine cooked onions and chillies with chopped spring onions, chopped prawns, cornmeal and stock, and mix thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper to taste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETake a tablespoon of the mixture and slightly flatten into an oval in the palm of your hand. Place a dice of lobster in the centre then form the mixture into a circle, ensuring the lobster is in the middle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen all the dumplings are formed, chill for up to 12 hours until ready to steam.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EDipping sauce\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E1 large bunch of parsley\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E½ cup water\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2-3 garlic cloves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 green chillies\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E¼ cup vegetable oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E½ cup lime juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ESalt\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPlace parsley, water, garlic cloves and chillies in a saucepan. Cover over medium heat and simmer for 15 mins. Remove from heat, add oil, and blend at high speed for 1 minute until smooth and glossy. You may want to add a little more water to loosen up the sauce as you blend. Add lime juice and season with salt to taste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETo assemble:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBring water to a boil and steam dumplings for 8-10 minutes until cornmeal is cooked throughout and the lobster is opaque but tender. Serve dumplings with dipping sauce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours-18"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-10T10:16:06Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A gourmet revival of Sierra Leone's bold flavours","headlineShort":"A new take on ancestral African cuisine","image":["p0cchx8f"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"8.4949358","longitude":"-13.2678457","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cchx8f"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220601-meza-malonga-the-afro-fusion-food-making-waves","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210607-jollof-wars-who-does-west-africas-iconic-rice-dish-best","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Sierra Leone recently got its first traditional fine-dining restaurant: a buzzing oasis where West African history and culture meet haute cuisine.","summaryShort":"It celebrates the legacy of 16 ethnic groups","tag":["tag\u002Frestaurant","tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-09T22:21:25.698981Z","entity":"article","guid":"1c25cbaa-c8e6-4d8d-806a-b297c4ed587c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-10T19:20:50.417881Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsierra-leone","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fafrica"],"destinationStat":"africa_sierra-leone_africa","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200514-welcome-to-svalbard-a-place-anyone-can-call-home":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200514-welcome-to-svalbard-a-place-anyone-can-call-home","_id":"62b420361f4b7b2e47166674","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"This visa-free archipelago in Norway is the northernmost year-round settlement in the world, and its capital, Longyearbyen, is home to people from more than 50 countries.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESnow-capped mountaintops are the first thing visitors may spot from the airplane windows when they arrive in the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard – that is, if they arrive during the bright half of the year, when the midnight sun can be seen nearly 24\u002F7. During the other half of the year, darkness reigns, and the Northern Lights often flicker and dance overhead.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELocated 800km north of mainland Norway in the middle of the Arctic Ocean, Svalbard is full of superlatives: it’s the world’s northernmost year-round settlement; it’s home to the world’s northernmost university, church and brewery; and it’s one of the few places in the world where anyone can live. In fact, of the nearly 2,400 residents who live in Svalbard’s capital Longyearbyen, almost a third are immigrants, originally hailing from more than 50 different countries. That’s because citizens of any country are welcome to settle in Svalbard without a visa as long as they have a job and a place to live.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200514-welcome-to-svalbard-a-place-anyone-can-call-home-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200514-welcome-to-svalbard-a-place-anyone-can-call-home-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s believed the Vikings were the first to explore the islands in around 1200, though Dutch explorers were the first to pay a documented visit while trying to find the Northeast Passage to China in 1596. The following centuries brought walrus and whale hunters from England, Denmark, France, Norway, Sweden and Russia. In 1906, American businessman John Munro Longyear established the archipelago’s first coal mine, which remained Svalbard’s primary industry during most of the 20th Century. These days, the  main activities on Svalbard are tourism and environmental and ecological research.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe islands went ungoverned until 1920, when, in the aftermath of World War One, a treaty that guaranteed Norway’s sovereignty over Svalbard was signed by nine countries – today, 46 countries are part of the agreement. The treaty stipulates the territory cannot be used for military purposes and makes Norway responsible for preserving the islands’ natural environment. The most striking feature of the agreement, however, is the unique clause that states there must be no distinction between the treatment of Norwegians and non-Norwegians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELongyearbyen is where most people settle when they move to Svalbard. There are only 40km of roads on the islands and no roads between different settlements – which are only accessible by boat in the summer or by snowmobile in winter. Anyone who leaves the city limits usually carries a rifle in case they encounter a polar bear. After all, the archipelago’s roughly 3,000 polar bears outnumber its 2,926 humans.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite being open for anyone to live, Svalbard is not the most ideal place to be born – or even die. There are no hospitals for pregnant women, and if someone dies, the local government requires the body to be flown or shipped to mainland Norway. Burials have not been allowed in the archipelago since the 1950s because the islands’ permafrost – a thick layer of ground that remains completely frozen throughout the year – not only preserves bodies but sometimes pushes corpses out if they are not buried deep enough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESvalbard’s permafrost and year-round low temperatures – the average high is just 7C in summer – also proved ideal for the installation of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.croptrust.org\u002Four-work\u002Fsvalbard-global-seed-vault\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGlobal Seed Vault\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which stands just about 3km away from Longyearbyen’s main road. It has stored more than 980,000 seeds from across the globe since 2008 as a backup in case of a global cataclysm that causes all crops to fail.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut, as temperatures rise, even the vault might not be completely safe. In 2017, its entrance tunnel was flooded after part of the permafrost melted. Longyearbyen was not designed with rainwater in mind and mudslides and avalanches have recently become a threat. The average temperature in Svalbard has risen by 4C since 1971, five times quicker than in the rest of the planet – \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20200301-rebuilding-the-worlds-northernmost-town\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emaking it the fastest-warming place in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Video by Will Francome; text by Luana Harumi)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis video is part of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fplaylist\u002Farctic-stories\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBBC Reel’s Arctic Stories playlist\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200514-welcome-to-svalbard-a-place-anyone-can-call-home-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-05-15T21:00:24Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Welcome to Svalbard: a place anyone can call home","headlineShort":"Where polar bears outnumber people","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This visa-free archipelago in Norway is the northernmost year-round settlement in the world, and its capital, Longyearbyen, is home to people from more than 50 countries.","summaryShort":"It’s one of the few places in the world where no-one needs a visa","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:49:16.454441Z","entity":"article","guid":"5ddcc3ec-f6bd-45a1-8cd8-65af1455d3b5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200514-welcome-to-svalbard-a-place-anyone-can-call-home","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:09:11.790434Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200514-welcome-to-svalbard-a-place-anyone-can-call-home","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396264},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway","_id":"62b4203c1f4b7b294052791e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flaura-hall"],"bodyIntro":"On a remote island deep into the Arctic Circle, a passionate jazz musician runs a hospitality project like no other – and it takes all his improvisational skills to keep it going.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETethered to windswept rocks on an island deep into the Arctic Circle is an unexpected sight: a tiny hotel with just four modernist sleeping cabins. Located 40 minutes off Norway's coast, the island of Sørvær is so remote that the next nearest piece of land is the east coast of Greenland, more than 2,000km away. Views from the highest point on the island take in the dark slivers of surfacing whales, soaring sea eagles and the endless expanse of the Arctic Ocean. But perhaps the biggest attraction for visitors is the new perspective they may gain on life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIsland life tends towards the unique, and the hotel on this isolated spot, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthearctichideaway.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Arctic Hideaway\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is similarly offbeat. It's the setting for a singular type of experience, where guests make an arduous trek to experience nature in the raw, find respite from burnout and discover the value of collaboration between unlikely disciplines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat's the whole idea, according to owner and jazz musician Håvard Lund, who initially devised the hotel as a collaborative creative space in 2016 after discovering how much his music benefitted from working with a mechanical engineer and a set designer. The experience helped him realise that once you leave specific industry language behind, we can all help each other in unexpected ways – and that there should be a place for it in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Discovering that I, as a composer, could help the engineer in his challenges, and that the set designer could help me construct my music, was a change in direction in life,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cbrmjm"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe project today operates as a hotel for nine months of the year, supporting a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthearctichideaway.com\u002Fen\u002Fartists-in-residence\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecreative residency programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the rest. Some people come looking for space to think and write; others are bird watchers, divers or musicians looking for inspiration in nature. Once they're here, it's all about the simple things: exploring the nearby uninhabited islands; watching otters play along the shore; and witnessing orca teaching their young to hunt in the bay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I don't really describe it as a hotel. It's more of an experimental laboratory","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe design, with small sleeping cabins, encourages guests to spend time outdoors or in the shared kitchen and living space, fostering intimate connections with others. Lund believes that when sequestered in nature, the experience becomes about the community you build, the new perspectives you discover and the clarity of thinking you can recover. The result is a new outlook on what a hotel space can be and achieve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, the Norwegian name for The Arctic Hideaway is \"Fordypningsrommet\", meaning \"The Immersion Room\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I don't really describe it as a hotel,\" Lund said. \"It's more of an experimental laboratory.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETwo volunteer caretakers manage the day-to-day operations, greeting guests, getting them up to speed on island life, changing beds, making bread, stoking the sauna on the repurposed former ferry dock and organising meals. Guests are introduced to the limited island resources; they're asked to take short showers – the hotel uses a pump and filters seawater into a small tank – and to help pitch in during mealtimes. For many, this self-sufficiency and simplicity is part of the appeal, and the hotel attracts like-minded people happy to join in and help.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cbrmhg"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere is a heavy reliance on the public ferry for food deliveries – there’s no other way to bring supplies in than by boat – and any building materials have to fit in the ferry’s luggage section if they are to be transported to the island. As extreme weather conditions like high winds can cause problems overnight that you can’t fix instantly, problem-solving skills are essential.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003ECabins sleeping 2 from 1450 NOK (£123) per night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFind out more: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.thearctichideaway.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewww.thearctichideaway.com\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"The Arctic Hideaway","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The biggest challenge is that we have to improvise,\" said caretaker Laura Jørgensen, who is part way through her three-month caretaking stint with her boyfriend Jarl. \"If something goes wrong, you can't just snap your fingers and fix it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeing a guest here is a little like being in the audience in a jazz club – you must be receptive to the unexpected. Want to see the Northern Lights? Maybe you will, maybe you won't. But perhaps you'll discover a book in the lounge that opens up a new avenue of thought, or a guest will entertain you on the piano. Want to take the rowboat out? You'll have to wait for the wind to die down, whenever that may be. In the meantime, maybe you'll discover a treasure trove of sea urchin shells discarded by otters on a walk around the island. It's all about the unpredictable and what that sense of space allows you to discover.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's also a jazz approach to the design in that it lacks unnecessary details: it's all about the notes you don’t play. There's no mini bar and no wide screen TV, no butler or pillow menu. Sleeping cabins are designed to fit a bed and not much else; the idea is that you have what you need, but no more, so your focus is more fully on nature. That means picture windows and no curtains, revealing a wide vista of the sea and the sky; and evening meals around a long table, opening up conversations and connections. After dinner, impromptu jazz performances may accompany the gathering wisps of the Northern Lights as they unfurl across the sky. Every aspect is calculated to put you more in touch with the extraordinary surroundings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cbrmgr"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFuture challenges include a proposed industrial fish farm in the archipelago, the creation of which involves dynamiting an island and exposing the area to pests, noise and waste. The prospect fills Lund with horror.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You don't understand it has been quiet until you hear sounds again,\" he said. \"It's similar to when your fridge or freezer stops. When it starts again, you understand how quiet it has been. We have some days here when it is so quiet that you can hear the conversations on other islands.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELund will need to present a case to the local authorities as to why this hotel and area should be protected, in contrast to the job creation opportunities the fish farm will bring. But founding decision-making on economic terms in this space is like comparing jazz with classical music, according to the musician, who sees improved mental health and a strengthened connection with nature as the greatest gifts this space can offer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're in the middle of enormous longing for nature and a deep need for a place like this,\" he said. \"For me, if I make decisions based on whether I make money or not, I've failed. What I'm aiming for is a different kind of economy altogether.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-08T10:11:23Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Norway's creative, isolated Arctic hideaway","headlineShort":"A tiny hotel on the edge of the world","image":["p0cbrmlc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"67.4034","longitude":"13.9004","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cbrmlc"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211121-norways-soaring-mountain-staircases","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220403-an-icy-mystery-deep-in-arctic-canada","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200514-welcome-to-svalbard-a-place-anyone-can-call-home"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"On a remote island deep into the Arctic Circle, a passionate jazz musician runs a hospitality project like no other – and it takes all his improvisational skills to keep it going.","summaryShort":"The biggest attraction for visitors is the new perspective they may gain on life","tag":["tag\u002Fhotels","tag\u002Fremote"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-07T23:13:30.696629Z","entity":"article","guid":"b7c7ca3f-f9d8-43db-bb50-edd525630f03","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-09T15:29:35.70884Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorway","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_norway_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396263}},"tags":{"tag\u002Ffood-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Ffood-drink","_id":"62b420971f4b7b647b5e6b48","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest food and drink stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Food & Drink","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"0b90e0cf-5bc4-45a8-9361-98ed75aae950","id":"tag\u002Ffood-drink","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:20:26.485271Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Ffood-drink","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262},"tag\u002Fcultural-traditions":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fcultural-traditions","_id":"62b420971f4b7b64af30a9e0","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest stories on cultural traditions from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Cultural Traditions","creationDateTime":"2017-08-15T19:28:57.916527Z","entity":"tag","guid":"62f2a0d9-399c-43a9-9833-3a4b45eb27dd","id":"tag\u002Fcultural-traditions","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:12:28.832907Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fcultural-traditions","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396262},"tag\u002Fborders":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fborders","_id":"62b420961f4b7b64c17b37a0","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about borders around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Borders","creationDateTime":"2017-11-10T17:21:18.810856Z","entity":"tag","guid":"d3aa7eca-08db-439e-a23f-541d23cce795","id":"tag\u002Fborders","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:04:56.289021Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fborders","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396248},"tag\u002Farchaeology":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Farchaeology","_id":"62b420951f4b7b647b5e6b3d","assetImage":[],"description":"The BBC’s latest stories about archaeology from around the world","linkUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fdbpedialite.org\u002Fthings\u002F18951655","name":"Archaeology","creationDateTime":"2015-11-13T11:43:20.892812Z","entity":"tag","guid":"ab6371bb-4852-41b3-8bde-45b308df886a","id":"tag\u002Farchaeology","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:59:28.600226Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Farchaeology","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396254},"tag\u002Fhistory":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fhistory","_id":"62b420ad1f4b7b64a539efe3","assetImage":[],"description":"","linkUrl":"","name":"History","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"6832b6dc-e349-43ec-af00-31e2e8025190","id":"tag\u002Fhistory","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:25:17.967338Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fhistory","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396257},"tag\u002Fheritage":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fheritage","_id":"62b420991f4b7b646376ba32","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest heritage stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Heritage","creationDateTime":"2017-08-15T19:44:19.131314Z","entity":"tag","guid":"d9eea9c2-1bbc-4b73-9b1b-f8f202525713","id":"tag\u002Fheritage","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:24:56.597795Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fheritage","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"tag\u002Frestaurant":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Frestaurant","_id":"62b4209b1f4b7b526832b595","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about restaurants from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Restaurant","creationDateTime":"2021-10-05T11:55:56.997663Z","entity":"tag","guid":"b195d85d-124b-43fd-be8a-f7d5b91e614b","id":"tag\u002Frestaurant","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:46:44.990996Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Frestaurant","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396261},"tag\u002Fconservation":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fconservation","_id":"62b420961f4b7b64af30a9dd","assetImage":null,"description":"","linkUrl":"","name":"Conservation","creationDateTime":"2015-08-31T16:11:39.418685Z","entity":"tag","guid":"54889432-e084-4118-8d59-38e49a99eb04","id":"tag\u002Fconservation","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:10:55.518627Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fconservation","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396259},"tag\u002Ffestivals":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Ffestivals","_id":"62b420971f4b7b5d5545f60c","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about unique festivals around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Festivals","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"58b83fcb-f6ec-4b17-8f04-78f71fef3164","id":"tag\u002Ffestivals","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:19:21.021097Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Ffestivals","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396255},"tag\u002Fnatural-wonders":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fnatural-wonders","_id":"62b4209d1f4b7b6f7d576c05","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest stories about the world's amazing natural wonders","linkUrl":"","name":"Natural Wonders","creationDateTime":"2019-01-16T18:57:30.321984Z","entity":"tag","guid":"f3b01bba-40ea-4a44-8bfc-02ae0ac35280","id":"tag\u002Fnatural-wonders","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:38:30.131547Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fnatural-wonders","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396256},"tag\u002Fremote":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fremote","_id":"62b4209b1f4b7b64795fddd7","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about remote places around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Remote Places","creationDateTime":"2017-08-15T19:08:29.432011Z","entity":"tag","guid":"e3f72d36-8958-4f49-9420-8264929e319c","id":"tag\u002Fremote","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:46:25.779469Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fremote","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396263},"tag\u002Fsustainability":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fsustainability","_id":"62b4209c1f4b7b526832b598","assetImage":null,"description":"The BBC’s latest sustainability stories from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Sustainability","creationDateTime":"2015-05-20T11:15:28.33822Z","entity":"tag","guid":"8c7980e9-39cc-4b2b-a9ae-fac193a4b669","id":"tag\u002Fsustainability","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-29T17:09:04.557968Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fsustainability","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396259},"tag\u002Fhotels":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fhotels","_id":"62b420af1f4b7b647a491cfe","assetImage":[],"description":"BBC Travel’s latest stories about hotels from around the world","linkUrl":"","name":"Hotels","creationDateTime":"2015-02-11T14:51:54.34867Z","entity":"tag","guid":"3e9a9052-53a9-46fc-a549-3827fda977fa","id":"tag\u002Fhotels","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T23:26:05.361166Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"tag\u002Fhotels","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396263}},"navigations":{"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:navigation:travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","_id":"62b420921f4b7b64c33a0e06","item":[{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Culture","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculture-identity","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-0"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Food","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ffood-hospitality","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-1"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Discovery","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fdiscovery","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-2"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Adventure","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fadventure-experience","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-3"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Destinations","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fdestinations","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-4"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Collections","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002F","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-5"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"About us","showFeaturedButton":false,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F1JY27sX","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-6"},{"lineOne":"NEW!","lineTwo":"50 Reasons to Love the World","showFeaturedButton":true,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3zDE6sk","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-7"},{"lineOne":"","lineTwo":"Untold America","showFeaturedButton":true,"url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710005241\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3jXnK59","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel-8"}],"primaryVertical":"travel","creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T15:02:23.756001Z","entity":"navigation","guid":"38bbc1f1-d8a5-4713-bfe2-6aaf1b656958","id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:09.071781Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396229}},"partners":{},"modules":{"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5bef31cd57","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"hero","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220707-brazils-answer-to-the-sichuan-pepper","schema":"article"}],"title":"Hero","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:37:45.179269Z","entity":"module","guid":"79a0523a-7e5c-4be9-9a53-3f7e411d128a","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-08T00:03:33.142489Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396246},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","_id":"62b420921f4b7b64b80759ac","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"index-picks","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220705-the-uks-heritage-apple-renaissance","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220704-a-mysterious-cult-that-predates-stonehenge","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220703-the-taste-of-tobago-in-just-one-dish","schema":"article"}],"title":"Editor's Picks","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:38:42.775995Z","entity":"module","guid":"1d5e8e1e-8d0f-4691-a1b6-54bad73c98ce","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-08T00:05:37.328224Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396248},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","_id":"62b420951f4b7b603c08922a","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"full-width-image","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","schema":"external"}],"title":"Full Width Image","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:34:40.11256Z","entity":"module","guid":"21620296-034a-40fe-8256-d6efcdd7e0bd","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:50:32.215265Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","_id":"62b420921f4b7b32e6399a27","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"hot-topics","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220621-clovelly-the-village-owned-by-englands-first-queen","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220614-the-exodus-of-paris-chefs-to-the-countryside","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220605-ozette-the-us-lost-2000-year-old-village","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220425-the-revival-of-a-forgotten-american-fruit","schema":"article"}],"title":"Hot Topics","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:33:42.010517Z","entity":"module","guid":"d9a25593-c5ee-497d-8c03-249fa8f88385","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-30T15:59:24.157819Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396252},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","_id":"62b420921f4b7b64c33a0e01","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"most-popular","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220622-a-blue-hole-to-the-northern-lights","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220620-pyramiden-an-abandoned-soviet-mining-town-in-the-arctic","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220619-the-resurgence-of-venices-prized-dorona-grape","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220616-jhal-muri-bangladeshs-fiery-inventive-spin-on-rice","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220615-the-uks-haven-for-alternative-thinking","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220612-the-sweet-flavours-of-pinoy-bbq","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220609-a-gourmet-revival-of-sierra-leones-bold-flavours","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220608-why-2022-is-the-year-of-saudi-coffee","schema":"article"},{"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220607-norways-creative-isolated-arctic-hideaway","schema":"article"}],"title":"Most Recent","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:40:32.013726Z","entity":"module","guid":"8b5e3bec-8106-4431-93f4-864352a65ddd","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-30T16:03:58.647285Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396255},"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane","_id":"62b420921f4b7b64c33a0e02","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"swimlane","primaryVertical":"travel","stories":[{"id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fas-the-world-opens","schema":"collection"},{"id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","schema":"collection"},{"id":"travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","schema":"collection"}],"title":"Swimlane","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:31:44.560665Z","entity":"module","guid":"7199c6f8-7f43-419a-b9d9-a3ab5e980a7a","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-30T12:11:26.499351Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396264}},"indexModules":{"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:module:travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex","_id":"62b420a51f4b7b6f7320af6e","image":null,"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","moduleType":"index","primaryVertical":"travel","title":"Index","creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T04:36:37.38773Z","entity":"module","guid":"bf059652-7316-4b2b-b549-097e3ba7648b","id":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:50:52.703389Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex","cacheLastUpdated":1657413396246,"subModules":["travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhero","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex-picks","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Ffull-width-image","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fhot-topics","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fmost-popular","travel\u002Fmodule\u002Fswimlane"]}},"aroundTheBBC":{},"weathers":{},"destinations":{},"videos":{}},"ads":{},"destinationsAZ":{"azIndexFilter":"Continent"},"collectionsAZ":{"indexFilter":"MOST_RECENT"},"relatedArticlesById":{},"article":{"currentActiveArticle":null,"primaryArticle":null},"loader":{"message":null,"show":false},"location":{"currentLocation":"\u002Ftravel\u002F","previousLocation":null,"isFirstRendering":true},"serverRender":true,"hasArticleHero":{"value":false},"visitedCollectionIndex":false,"visitedTagIndex":false,"metaData":{"title":null},"fetchArticleGroupByArticleId":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null,"endpoint":null},"fetchArticleById":{"isFetching":null,"error":null},"fetchTagsByVertical":{"isFetching":false,"error":null},"fetchCollectionsIndexByVerticalReducer":{"isFetching":false,"error":null},"fetchDestinationsIndexByVerticalReducer":{"isFetching":false,"error":null},"fetchNavigationById":{"isFetching":false,"id":"travel\u002Fnavigation\u002Ftravel","error":null},"fetchCollectionById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchDestinationById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchAroundTheBBCByVertical":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchTagById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchWeatherById":{"isFetching":false,"id":null,"error":null},"fetchModuleByVertical":{"isFetching":{"site\u002Ftravel\u002Fmodule\u002Findex":false},"error":null},"pagination":{"articleInfiniteScroll":{},"collectionArticlesIndex":{},"tagArticlesIndex":{},"verticalArticlesIndex":{},"premiumCollectionArticlesIndex":{},"swimlaneCollectionArticles":{},"destinationArticlesIndex":{}}}</script> <script>window.__ENTITY_ROUTES__ = {"article":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId"},"previewArticle":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fpreview\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Farticle\u002F:primaryArticleId"},"premiumCollection":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fpremium-collection\u002F:id"},"collectionArticlesIndexColumn":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fcolumns\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fcolumn\u002F:id"},"collectionArticlesIndexSection":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fsections\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fcolumn\u002F:id"},"tagArticlesIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Ftags\u002F:id","entityMapping":":moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Ftag\u002F:id"},"tagsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Ftags","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId\u002Ftags"},"verticalArticlesIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)"},"collectionsColumnsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fcolumns","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId\u002Fcollections"},"collectionsSectionsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(future|worklife|culture|travel)\u002Fsections","entityMapping":"\u002F:moduleId\u002Fcollections"},"destinationsIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(travel)\u002Fdestinations","entityMapping":"\u002Fdestinations"},"destinationIndex":{"path":"\u002F:moduleId(travel)\u002Fdestinations\u002F:destinationId","entityMapping":":moduleId\u002Fdestination-guide\u002F:destinationId"}};</script> <script>window.__PWA_CLIENT_SIDE_ENABLED__=true</script> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241js_/https://static-web-assets.gnl-common.bbcverticals.com/features/pwa/20220627-121132-6c8d5ccb739bf0e69926695c29fb48bc3e1fbf37/static/js/bundle.2217920b.js"></script> <script>window.BBC_GNL_PWA_MAIN();</script> <script type="text/javascript"> (function() { /** CONFIGURATION START **/ var _sf_async_config = window._sf_async_config = (window._sf_async_config || {}); _sf_async_config.uid = '50924'; _sf_async_config.domain = 'bbc.co.uk'; _sf_async_config.flickerControl = false; _sf_async_config.useCanonical = true; _sf_async_config.sections = 'travel'; _sf_async_config.path = '/travel/'; _sf_async_config.authors = false; /** CONFIGURATION END **/ function loadChartbeat() { var e = document.createElement('script'); var n = document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0]; e.type = 'text/javascript'; e.async = true; e.src = '//web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://static.chartbeat.com/js/chartbeat.js'; n.parentNode.insertBefore(e, n); } loadChartbeat(); })(); </script> </div> <div id="orb-footer" class="orb-footer" dir="ltr"> <div id="navp-orb-footer-promo"></div><aside role="complementary"><div id="orb-aside" class="orb-nav-sec b-r b-g-p"><div class="orb-footer-inner" role="navigation" aria-label="BBC"><h2 class="orb-footer-lead">Explore the BBC</h2><div class="orb-footer-primary-links"><ul class="domestic"><li class="orb-nav-home"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-news"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#B80000" d="M302,424h-68c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,422.552,232,422V306c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,304,234,304h68c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S304,305.448,304,306v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S302.552,424,302,424z"></path><path fill="#EB0000" d="M422,280H234c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S232,278.552,232,278V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S233.448,88,234,88h188c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v188c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,280,422,280z"></path><path fill="#D30000" d="M206,328H90c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S88,326.552,88,326V210c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S89.448,208,90,208h116c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v116c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S206.552,328,206,328z"></path></g></svg><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#FFD230" d="M90,184h332c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,182.552,424,182V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,89.448,88,90v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414S89.448,184,90,184z"></path><path fill="#FFA100" d="M306,424h116c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,422.552,424,422v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,328,422,328H306c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S304,329.448,304,330v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S305.448,424,306,424z"></path><path fill="#FFBA00" d="M210,304h212c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,302.552,424,302v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,208,422,208H210c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S208,209.448,208,210v92c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S209.448,304,210,304z"></path></g></svg><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#067EB3" d="M316.234,368.56l52.326-52.326c0.391-0.391,0.586-0.902,0.586-1.414c0-0.512-0.195-1.024-0.586-1.414 L252.594,197.44c-0.391-0.391-0.902-0.586-1.414-0.586s-1.024,0.195-1.414,0.586l-52.326,52.326 c-0.391,0.391-0.586,0.902-0.586,1.414s0.195,1.024,0.586,1.414L313.406,368.56c0.391,0.391,0.902,0.586,1.414,0.586 C315.332,369.146,315.844,368.95,316.234,368.56z"></path><path fill="#1969A6" d="M90,424h74c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S166,422.552,166,422V258c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S164.552,256,164,256H90c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S88,257.448,88,258v164c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S89.448,424,90,424z"></path><path fill="#149EDC" d="M258,166h164c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,164.552,424,164V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414 S422.552,88,422,88H258c-0.552,0-1.052,0.224-1.414,0.586S256,89.448,256,90v74c0,0.552,0.224,1.052,0.586,1.414 S257.448,166,258,166z"></path></g></svg><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-iplayer"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#DC2878" d="M182,358h-68c-0.55,0-1.05-0.225-1.412-0.587C112.225,357.05,112,356.55,112,356V156 c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414S113.448,154,114,154h68c0.55,0,1.05,0.225,1.413,0.587C183.775,154.95,184,155.45,184,156v200 c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414S182.552,358,182,358z"></path><path fill="#FF4C98" d="M372.106,248.243l34-58.89c0.275-0.476,0.33-1.022,0.197-1.517c-0.133-0.495-0.453-0.94-0.93-1.215 l-173.205-100c-0.478-0.276-1.023-0.332-1.518-0.2c-0.494,0.132-0.938,0.454-1.214,0.932l-34,58.89 c-0.275,0.476-0.33,1.022-0.197,1.517c0.133,0.495,0.453,0.94,0.93,1.215l173.205,100c0.478,0.276,1.023,0.332,1.518,0.2 C371.386,249.042,371.83,248.721,372.106,248.243z"></path><path fill="#AF0D5B" d="M372.106,263.757l34,58.89c0.275,0.476,0.33,1.022,0.197,1.517c-0.133,0.495-0.453,0.94-0.93,1.215 l-173.205,100c-0.478,0.276-1.023,0.332-1.518,0.2c-0.494-0.132-0.938-0.454-1.214-0.932l-34-58.89 c-0.275-0.476-0.33-1.022-0.197-1.517c0.133-0.495,0.453-0.94,0.93-1.215l173.205-100c0.478-0.276,1.023-0.332,1.518-0.2 C371.386,262.958,371.83,263.279,372.106,263.757z"></path></g></svg><span>iPlayer</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#A13104" d="M122,304H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,302.552,76,302v-92c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,208,78,208h44c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S124,209.448,124,210v92c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S122.552,304,122,304z"></path><path fill="#D24712" d="M230,376h-80c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S148,374.552,148,374V138c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S149.448,136,150,136h80c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S232,137.448,232,138v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S230.552,376,230,376z"></path><path fill="#FA6400" d="M422,424H258c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S256,422.552,256,422V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S257.448,88,258,88h164c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v332c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,424,422,424z"></path></g></svg><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#6100A8" d="M134,400H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,398.552,76,398V162c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,160,78,160h56c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S136,161.448,136,162v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S134.552,400,134,400z"></path><path fill="#7222C6" d="M254,400h-92c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S160,398.552,160,398V114c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S161.448,112,162,112h92c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S256,113.448,256,114v284c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S254.552,400,254,400z"></path><path fill="#963CE1" d="M444.77,373.863l-85.829,26.232c-0.529,0.162-1.073,0.093-1.526-0.148s-0.812-0.655-0.973-1.184 L273.901,126.63c-0.16-0.528-0.091-1.07,0.149-1.521c0.241-0.451,0.653-0.811,1.18-0.972l85.829-26.232 c0.529-0.162,1.073-0.093,1.526,0.148s0.812,0.655,0.973,1.184l82.542,272.133c0.16,0.528,0.091,1.07-0.149,1.521 C445.71,373.342,445.297,373.702,444.77,373.863z"></path></g></svg><span>Bitesize</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies"><span>CBeebies</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc"><span>CBBC</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-food"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food"><span>Food</span></a></li></ul><ul class="international"><li class="orb-nav-homedotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/"><span>Home</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-newsdotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/news"><span>News</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sport"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/sport"><span>Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-reeldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/reel"><span>Reel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-worklife"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/worklife"><span>Worklife</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-traveldotcom"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/travel"><span>Travel</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-future"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/future"><span>Future</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-culture"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/culture"><span>Culture</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-tv"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/schedules/p00fzl9m"><span>TV</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/weather"><span>Weather</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-sounds"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds"><span>Sounds</span></a></li></ul></div></div></div></aside><footer role="contentinfo"><div id="orb-contentinfo" class="orb-nav-sec b-r b-g-p"><div class="orb-footer-inner"><div><ul><li class="orb-footer-terms"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/usingthebbc/terms/">Terms of Use</a></li><li class="orb-footer-about"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/aboutthebbc">About the BBC</a></li><li class="orb-footer-privacy"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/usingthebbc/privacy/">Privacy Policy</a></li><li class="orb-footer-cookies"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/usingthebbc/cookies/">Cookies</a></li><li class="orb-footer-accessibility"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/accessibility/">Accessibility Help</a></li><li class="orb-footer-parental"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/guidance">Parental Guidance</a></li><li class="orb-footer-contact"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/contact">Contact the BBC</a></li><li class="domestic orb-footer-newsletter"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bbcnewsletter">BBC emails for you</a></li><li class="international orb-footer-newsletter"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bbcnewsletter">Get Personalised Newsletters</a></li><li class="international orb-footer-ads"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbcglobalnews.com/">Advertise with us</a></li><li class="international orb-footer-adchoices"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.com/usingthebbc/cookies/how-does-the-bbc-use-cookies-for-advertising/">AdChoices / Do Not Sell My Info</a></li></ul><small><em class="orb-hilight">Copyright © 2022 BBC.</em> The BBC is not responsible for the content of external sites. <span class="orb-footer-links"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://www.bbc.co.uk/editorialguidelines/guidance/feeds-and-links" class="orb-hilight">Read about our approach to external linking.</a></span></small></div></div></div></footer></div><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c112a8f36cf65a87b0355cbdb46acf5a/js/redirect.js" async=""></script><script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c112a8f36cf65a87b0355cbdb46acf5a/js/performance.js" data-release="3.0.0-2186.3c7cee4d" data-ux="v5" async=""></script> <script type="module" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241jm_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c112a8f36cf65a87b0355cbdb46acf5a/js/more-drawer.mjs"></script> <script type="module" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241jm_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c112a8f36cf65a87b0355cbdb46acf5a/js/orbit.mjs" async=""></script><script nomodule="" type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c112a8f36cf65a87b0355cbdb46acf5a/js/orbit.js" async=""></script> <script type="text/javascript">/*<![CDATA[*/ (function() { function loadJs(url) { var script = document.createElement('script'); script.type = 'text/javascript'; script.src = url; script.async = true; document.getElementsByTagName('body')[0].appendChild(script); } window.bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function(isUK) { if (isUK) { loadJs('https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/orbit/c112a8f36cf65a87b0355cbdb46acf5a/js/edr.js'); } }); })(); /*]]>*/</script> <script type="module">if (window.bbcuser && window.bbcuser.isUKCombined) { bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function (isUK) { if (isUK) { import('https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/5862eada893d4b99aa2cfb8f76c11796//js/search-suggest.js').then(drawer => { drawer.setupSearchDrawer({ searchboxAppStaticPrefix: 'https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/searchbox/5862eada893d4b99aa2cfb8f76c11796/', variant: 'default', }); }); } }); }</script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241js_/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk/navpromo/34f98a4c8573fabed16dc8acea28feb8/js/footerpromo.js" data-base="https://navpromo.api.bbci.co.uk" data-variant="" async=""></script> <script type="text/javascript">window.COOKIES_STATIC_HOST="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/6f7a92d4fabe448fb9b4b2169f055909/cookie-banner/cookie-prompt/"</script><script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241js_/https://static.files.bbci.co.uk/cookies/6f7a92d4fabe448fb9b4b2169f055909/cookie-banner/cookie-banners.bundle.js" async=""></script> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241js_/https://nav.files.bbci.co.uk//user-activity-helper/a8196ecdef2d10b40b1afc53b833773a/js/detectview.bundle.js" async=""></script><script type="text/javascript">"use strict";window.__reverb.__reverbLoadedPromise.then(function(e){return e.initialise().then(function(){return e.viewEvent()})},function(){console.log("Failed to load reverb. No event sent")});</script><noscript><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241im_/https://sb.scorecardresearch.com/p?c1=2&c2=17986528&cs_ucfr=0&cv=2.0&cj=1"></noscript> <script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241js_/https://mybbc.files.bbci.co.uk/notification-ui/5.0.12//js/NotificationsMain.js" defer="defer"></script><script type="module">const drawerAPI = await window.shimport('orbit-drawer'); !window.location.href.includes('/notifications') && window.bbcuser.isUKCombined().then(function(isUK) { if (isUK) { window.NotificationsMain.run(drawerAPI, "https://web.archive.org/web/20220710005241/https://mybbc.files.bbci.co.uk/notification-ui/5.0.12/");}})</script> </body> </html>