CINXE.COM

<!DOCTYPE html> <html lang="en"> <head> <title>Baroque farce of a ruined heritage | The Independent | The Independent</title> <meta charset="utf-8"><meta name="amp-google-client-id-api" content="googleanalytics"><meta name="robots" content="max-image-preview:large,max-video-preview:-1"><meta property="fb:app_id" content="235586169789578"><meta property="fb:pages" content="https://www.facebook.com/TheIndependentOnline"><meta name="category" content="Lifestyle"><meta name="sitename" content="The Independent"><meta name="page path" content="/life-style"><meta name="page type" content="Article"><meta name="adPageType" content="Article Page"><meta property="og:locale" content="en_GB"><meta name="description" content="A beautiful cathedral in Sicily is collapsing through bureaucratic inertia. Sadly, it's a typical Italian story"><meta property="og:image" content=""><meta property="og:updated_time" content="1997-04-19T23:02:00.000Z"><meta property="article:published_time" content="1997-04-19T23:02:00.000Z"><meta property="article:modified_time" content="1997-04-19T23:02:00.000Z"><meta property="date" content="1997-04-19T23:02:00.000Z"><meta property="og:site_name" content="The Independent"><meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width,initial-scale=1,user-scalable=no,minimum-scale=1,maximum-scale=1"><meta name="theme-color" content="#f7f7f7"><meta name="google-signin-client_id" content="329250492844-uqochn2f1j5ljkshuap5gc7qphf1refj.apps.googleusercontent.com"><meta property="article:section" content="Lifestyle"><meta property="article:author_name" content="Andrew Gumbel"><meta property="article:content_type" content="story"><meta property="article:word_count" content="1513"><meta property="article:image_count" content="0"><meta property="article:embed_count" content="0"><meta property="article:video_count" content="0"><meta property="article:internal_link_count" content="0"><meta property="article:external_link_count" content="0"><meta property="og:title" content="Baroque farce of a ruined heritage"><meta name="twitter:title" content="Baroque farce of a ruined heritage"><meta property="og:url" content="https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html"><meta property="og:type" content="article"><meta name="twitter:site" content="@Independent"><meta name="twitter:card" content="summary_large_image"><meta property="og:description" content="A beautiful cathedral in Sicily is collapsing through bureaucratic inertia. Sadly, it's a typical Italian story"><meta name="twitter:description" content="A beautiful cathedral in Sicily is collapsing through bureaucratic inertia. Sadly, it's a typical Italian story"><meta name="twitter:image" content=""><meta property="keywords" content="Christian Monastery,Churches,Engineering,Rome,Internal"> <link rel="manifest" href="/manifest.json" crossOrigin="use-credentials"><link rel="shortcut icon" type="image/ico" href="/img/shortcut-icons/favicon.ico"><link rel="icon" type="image/png" href="/img/shortcut-icons/icon-192x192.png" sizes="192x192"><link rel="icon" type="image/png" href="/img/shortcut-icons/icon-512x512.png" sizes="512x512"><link rel="apple-touch-icon" href="/img/shortcut-icons/icon-192x192.png"><link href="https://assets.the-independent.com/fonts/Independent-Serif-Medium.woff2" rel="preload" as="font" type="font/woff2" crossOrigin="true"><link href="https://assets.the-independent.com/fonts/Independent-Serif-Medium-Italic.woff2" rel="preload" as="font" type="font/woff2" crossOrigin="true"><link href="//cdn.taboola.com" rel="preconnect" crossOrigin="true"><link rel="canonical" href="https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html"><link rel="alternate" hrefLang="en-gb" href="https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html"><link rel="alternate" href="https://www.the-independent.com/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html" hrefLang="en-us"> <style>@font-face{font-display:swap;font-family:"Indy Serif";font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://assets.the-independent.com/fonts/Independent-Serif-Regular.woff2) format('woff2')}@font-face{font-family:"Indy Serif Fallback";font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;ascent-override:normal;descent-override:normal;line-gap-override:4%;size-adjust:101%;src:local(Georgia)}@font-face{font-display:swap;font-family:"Indy Serif";font-style:italic;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://assets.the-independent.com/fonts/Independent-Serif-Regular-Italic.woff2) format('woff2')}@font-face{font-family:"Indy Serif Fallback";font-style:italic;font-weight:normal;ascent-override:normal;descent-override:normal;line-gap-override:7%;size-adjust:98.5%;src:local(Georgia)}@font-face{font-display:swap;font-family:"Indy Serif";font-style:normal;font-weight:bold;src:url(https://assets.the-independent.com/fonts/Independent-Serif-Medium.woff2) format('woff2')}@font-face{font-family:"Indy Serif Fallback";font-style:normal;font-weight:bold;ascent-override:94%;descent-override:21%;line-gap-override:0;size-adjust:103%;src:local(Georgia)}@font-face{font-display:swap;font-family:"Indy Serif";font-style:italic;font-weight:bold;src:url(https://assets.the-independent.com/fonts/Independent-Serif-Medium-Italic.woff2) format('woff2')}@font-face{font-family:"Indy Serif Fallback";font-style:italic;font-weight:bold;ascent-override:normal;descent-override:normal;line-gap-override:4%;size-adjust:101%;src:local(Georgia)}@font-face{font-display:swap;font-family:"Indy Sans";font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;src:url(https://assets.the-independent.com/fonts/Independent-Sans-Regular.woff2) format('woff2')}@font-face{font-family:"Indy Sans Fallback";font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;ascent-override:97%;descent-override:28%;line-gap-override:0;size-adjust:96%;src:local(Georgia)}@font-face{font-display:swap;font-family:"Indy Sans";font-style:normal;font-weight:bold;src:url(https://assets.the-independent.com/fonts/Independent-Sans-Medium.woff2) format('woff2')}@font-face{font-family:"Indy Sans Fallback";font-style:normal;font-weight:bold;ascent-override:97%;descent-override:28%;line-gap-override:0;size-adjust:99%;src:local(Georgia)}@font-face{font-display:swap;font-family:"Indy Sans CAPS";font-style:normal;font-weight:bold;src:url(https://assets.the-independent.com/fonts/Independent-Sans-Medium.woff2) format('woff2')}@font-face{font-family:"Indy Sans CAPS Fallback";font-style:normal;font-weight:bold;ascent-override:90%;descent-override:17%;line-gap-override:0;size-adjust:95%;src:local(Arial)}body{padding:0;margin:0;color:#222;font-family:'Indy Serif','Indy Serif Fallback',serif;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;line-height:1.2;-webkit-print-color-adjust:exact;scroll-padding-top:300px}h1,h2{font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:.22px;line-height:normal}h3{line-height:21px}p,li{font-size:19px;line-height:1.44em}a{color:#ec1a2e;text-decoration:none}a:hover{color:#ac2a2c}button{overflow:visible;width:auto;padding:0;margin:0;border:0;appearance:none;background:transparent;color:inherit;cursor:pointer;font:inherit;-webkit-font-smoothing:inherit;line-height:normal}button::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0}html.freeze-body body{overflow:hidden !important}[hidden]{display:none !important}.article-premium h3{font-size:19px}span svg{width:100%;height:auto}.limited-access,.limited-access-non-premium{overflow:hidden}.limited-access .social-share,.limited-access-non-premium .social-share{display:none}.limited-access{max-height:127px}.limited-access-non-premium{max-height:360px}@media(max-width:594px){.limited-access-non-premium{max-height:530px}}.tp-backdrop.tp-active{background:rgba(0,0,0,0.5) !important;opacity:1 !important}.tp-modal{overflow-y:auto !important}.tp-iframe-wrapper{box-shadow:none !important}.tp-body-scroll-prevented{background:#fff !important}#pixels-player-amp-dock{position:fixed}@media(max-width:767px){#pixels-player-amp-dock{top:0;left:0;width:100%}}@media(max-width:999px){.parallax{transform:none !important;will-change:unset !important}}amp-consent{z-index:2147483647;min-width:100vw;min-height:100vh;background:transparent}amp-ad[sticky]{z-index:2147483646}amp-sidebar{position:relative;width:100%;max-width:100%;height:auto;min-height:100vh;background:0;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:19px}@media(min-width:425px){amp-sidebar{width:auto}}#drawermenu{max-width:320px;background:#f7f7f7}amp-lightbox{z-index:1002}amp-script{opacity:1}amp-selector[multiple] [option][selected]{outline:0}.grecaptcha-badge{visibility:hidden}body #tbl-next-up{z-index:2147483646}#body .indy-adtech-widget{min-height:204px}.jwplayer.jw-skin-independent-premium .jw-display-icon-container,.jwplayer.jw-skin-independent-regular .jw-display-icon-container{padding:1em;border-radius:50%}.jwplayer.jw-skin-independent-premium .jw-display-icon-container{background-color:#337e81}.jwplayer.jw-skin-independent-premium .jw-display-icon-container:hover{background-color:#386366}.jwplayer.jw-skin-independent-regular .jw-display-icon-container{background-color:#ec1a2e}.jwplayer.jw-skin-independent-regular .jw-display-icon-container:hover{background-color:#ac2a2c}.jwplayer.jw-skin-independent-regular .jw-button-color{color:#fff}html.freeze-body{overflow-x:visible !important}.hsDYAr{width:16px;height:16px}.cspHGj{width:24px;height:24px}.fdygxT{width:12px;height:12px}.fnAcWz{width:32px;height:32px}.kOpooG{display:block;color:currentColor}.dyGycr{display:inline-flex;width:100%;height:42px;box-sizing:border-box;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:8px;padding:0 16px;border-radius:4px;font:bold 14px/18px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;outline-offset:4px;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;transition:background-color 150ms ease-out;white-space:nowrap;--primary-color:#ec1a2e;--hover-color:#ac2a2c;--disabled-color:#bbb;--color:#fff;background-color:var(--primary-color);color:var(--color)}.dyGycr.is-disabled,.dyGycr:disabled,.dyGycr.is-disabled:focus,.dyGycr:disabled:focus,.dyGycr.is-disabled:hover,.dyGycr:disabled:hover,.dyGycr.is-disabled:active,.dyGycr:disabled:active{pointer-events:none}.dyGycr:focus,.dyGycr:hover,.dyGycr:active{background-color:var(--hover-color);color:var(--color)}.dyGycr.is-disabled,.dyGycr:disabled,.dyGycr.is-disabled:focus,.dyGycr:disabled:focus,.dyGycr.is-disabled:hover,.dyGycr:disabled:hover,.dyGycr.is-disabled:active,.dyGycr:disabled:active{background-color:var(--disabled-color)}.amp-form-submitting .form-submit{outline:0}.amp-form-submitting .form-submit .btn-text{display:none}.amp-form-submitting .form-submit .btn-loader{display:inline-block}.buFgOY{margin:20px 0}.gHXQPb{border:2px solid #fff;border-top:2px solid #ec1a2e}.eEZTEZ:disabled{cursor:initial;user-select:none}@keyframes spin{0%{transform:rotate(0)}100%{transform:rotate(360deg)}}.eEZTEZ .btn-loader{display:none;position:relative;top:2px;width:20px;height:20px;border-radius:50%;animation:spin 2s linear infinite}.dHKhij{position:relative;flex:1;text-align:left}.dHKhij a svg{fill:#646464}.dHKhij input.input-password::-webkit-credentials-auto-fill-button{position:relative;top:-2px;left:-32px;background:#646464}.dHKhij input,.dHKhij select{width:100%;height:56px;box-sizing:border-box;align-self:flex-end;padding:5px 16px 0;border:solid 1px #d3d3d3;border-radius:4px;appearance:none;background:0;color:#222;filter:none;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:16px;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;font-weight:normal;letter-spacing:.009375em;outline:0;text-decoration:inherit;text-transform:inherit}.dHKhij select~label,.dHKhij input~label{position:absolute;top:-8px;left:16px;overflow:hidden;padding:0 4px;background:#fff;color:#222;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-weight:normal;letter-spacing:.009375em;line-height:16px;pointer-events:none;text-align:left;text-overflow:ellipsis;user-select:none;white-space:nowrap}.dHKhij .error-text,.dHKhij .submit-error-text,.dHKhij .help-text{padding-left:16px;margin:0;margin-top:5px;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:normal;line-height:16px;text-align:left}.dHKhij .error-text,.dHKhij .submit-error-text{color:#a20021}.dHKhij .help-text{color:#222}.dHKhij select.user-invalid,.dHKhij .is-touched.user-invalid{border-color:#a20021;box-shadow:0 0 0 1px #a20021}.dHKhij .is-touched.user-valid:focus{border-color:#157f1f;box-shadow:0 0 0 1px #157f1f}.dHKhij .is-touched.user-valid~.error-text.visible{display:none}.dHKhij .is-untouched:not(.user-invalid):focus{border-color:#276fbf;box-shadow:0 0 0 1px #276fbf}.dHKhij .is-untouched:not(.form-submitted)~.error-text{display:none}.dHKhij .form-submitted.user-invalid{border-color:#a20021;box-shadow:0 0 0 1px #a20021}.dHKhij select.user-invalid~.help-text,.dHKhij .is-touched.user-invalid~.help-text,.dHKhij .form-submitted.user-invalid~.help-text{display:none}.eOZSho{position:absolute;overflow:hidden;width:.01em;height:.01em;padding:0;border:0;clip:rect(0,0,0,0);white-space:nowrap}.ghzHPh{display:flex;align-items:center}.fwOlvZ{max-width:100%}.lgqWRm>div{position:sticky;top:16px}.bhQnpv{padding:0;margin:0;list-style:none}.jKEmdI{display:flex;height:62px;align-items:center}.blzGVC{display:inline-block;width:32px;height:32px;margin:0 15px 0 0;border-radius:50%;background:#222;cursor:pointer;text-decoration:none}.blzGVC svg{width:60%;height:60%;margin:20%;fill:#fff}.blzGVC.fb-link{background:#3b5998}.blzGVC.fb-link:hover{background:#2f4779}.blzGVC.fb-link svg{width:100%;height:100%;margin:0}.blzGVC.tw-link{background:#4a90e2}.blzGVC.x-link{background:#000}.blzGVC.x-link:hover{background:#4e4e4e}.ebslEa{padding:0;margin:0;list-style:none}.bqyBxb{display:block;padding:6px 0;color:#222;cursor:pointer;font:normal 14px/1.28 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;text-decoration:none}.jRtgJY{display:flex;position:relative;box-sizing:border-box;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;padding:32px 20px;margin:32px 12px;border-top:1px solid #d3d3d3;background-color:#fff}@media(min-width:768px){.jRtgJY{margin:32px 16px 72px}}@media(min-width:1000px){.jRtgJY{padding-right:40px;padding-left:40px;margin:32px 16px}.wrapped_by_ads .jRtgJY{margin:32px 0}}.jRtgJY.hidden{display:none}.bdmwwC{display:flex;width:100%;font:normal 14px/18px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}.bBDWYx{display:grid;width:100%;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;padding:0;margin:0;list-style:none}@media(min-width:768px){.bBDWYx{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr}}@media(min-width:1000px){.bBDWYx{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:flex-start}}.gqbjzo{width:100%;margin-bottom:20px}.gqbjzo:first-of-type{grid-row:span 2}.gqbjzo:nth-of-type(4){order:5}@media(min-width:768px){.gqbjzo{width:auto;grid-row:span 2}.gqbjzo:nth-of-type(2),.gqbjzo:nth-of-type(3){grid-row:span 1}.gqbjzo:nth-of-type(3){order:5}.gqbjzo:nth-of-type(4){order:0}}@media(min-width:1000px){.gqbjzo{width:50%;flex:1 0 145px;margin-bottom:20px}.gqbjzo:nth-of-type(3){order:0}}.jHxRtj{display:block;padding:0;margin:0 0 8px;color:#222;pointer-events:none;font:bold 14px/1 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;text-decoration:none;text-transform:uppercase}.cFvWAT{display:block;width:72px;height:72px;margin-bottom:30px;border-radius:50%;background-color:#ec1a2e}.ejbrpC{display:none;visibility:hidden}.focmqW{border-radius:50%}.jHWEMI{background:#ec1a2e}.hPPUmj{display:flex;overflow:hidden;height:100%;align-items:center;margin:0}.jdGUnr{padding:13px 12px}.jdGUnr .logo-text{width:136px;height:13px}.jdGUnr .logo-stamp{width:23px;height:23px;margin-right:3px}@media(min-width:375px){.jdGUnr{padding:10px 12px}.jdGUnr .logo-text{width:167px;height:16px}.jdGUnr .logo-stamp{width:29px;height:29px;margin-right:4px}}@media(min-width:768px){.jdGUnr{padding:8px 12px}.jdGUnr .logo-text{width:229px;height:22px}.jdGUnr .logo-stamp{width:39px;height:39px;margin-right:6px}}@media(min-width:1000px){.jdGUnr{padding:12px 0}.jdGUnr .logo-text{width:293px;height:28px}.jdGUnr .logo-stamp{width:52px;height:52px;margin-right:7px}}.fQlAru{display:flex;position:absolute;top:9px;left:-500px;z-index:5;height:36px;align-items:center;padding:0 16px;border:2px solid #353533;border-radius:6px;background:#353533;color:#fff;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-weight:bold;line-height:16px;outline:0}.fQlAru:focus{left:16px}.fQlAru:hover{background:#fff;color:#353533}.hXApGR{padding-bottom:12px;background:#f7f7f7;clear:both}.hXApGR form.gsc-search-box{box-sizing:border-box;padding:12px 12px 0;margin:0}.hXApGR table.gsc-search-box{overflow:hidden;margin:0;border-radius:4px}.hXApGR table.gsc-search-box td.gsc-input{padding:0}.hXApGR .gsc-input-box{padding:0;border:0}.hXApGR input{height:32px !important}.hXApGR .gsst_a,.hXApGR .gsst_b{display:flex;height:100%;align-items:center;padding:0}.hXApGR .gscb_a{--width:24px;overflow:hidden;width:var(--width);height:var(--width);margin:0 6px;background-image:url(data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg%20viewBox%3D%220%200%2024%2024%22%20xmlns%3D%22http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg%22%3E%0A%20%20%3Cpath%20fill%3D%22currentColor%22%20d%3D%22M19%206.41%2017.59%205%2012%2010.59%206.41%205%205%206.41%2010.59%2012%205%2017.59%206.41%2019%2012%2013.41%2017.59%2019%2019%2017.59%2013.41%2012%2019%206.41z%22%2F%3E%0A%3C%2Fsvg%3E%0A);text-indent:-9999px}.hXApGR .gsc-search-button{width:40px;height:40px;padding:0;margin:0;border:0;border-radius:0;background:#ec1a2e}.hXApGR .gsc-search-button:hover{background:#ac2a2c}.hXApGR .gsc-search-button svg{width:24px;height:24px}.hXApGR .quick-searchresults{position:absolute;left:3.75%;z-index:7;width:92.5%}.hXApGR .quick-searchresults .gsc-control-cse{padding:0;border:0}.hXApGR .quick-searchresults .gsc-results-wrapper-visible{height:373px;box-shadow:0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5);overflow-y:scroll}.JwiiU{display:none;position:relative;margin-left:auto;background:0}@media(min-width:1000px){.JwiiU{display:block}}.JwiiU form.gsc-search-box{width:205px;height:32px;box-sizing:border-box;padding:23px 0 0}.JwiiU .gsc-search-button{width:32px;height:32px}.JwiiU .gsc-search-button svg{width:18px;height:18px}.JwiiU input{height:30px !important}.JwiiU table.gsc-input{border:1px solid #d3d3d3;border-radius:4px 0 0 4px;border-right:0}.JwiiU .quick-searchresults{right:0;left:auto;z-index:7000;width:391px;max-height:393px;margin-top:7px}.JwiiU .gsib_a{padding:1px 0 0 12px}.ciyOeI{border-left:1px solid #919191}.ciyOeI:last-child{border-right:1px solid #919191}.fBqrjI{padding-top:24px}.inXiWD{position:relative;z-index:6;margin:0 14px 0 auto}.fbRAkm{margin:0 -2px 0 auto}.kxfuOV{display:flex;position:relative;width:176px;align-items:center;padding:4px 20px;color:#fff;font:normal 14px/18px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}.kxfuOV:hover{color:#fff}.kxfuOV:hover::after{position:absolute;bottom:2px;left:20px;width:calc(100% - 40px);height:1px;background:#fff;content:''}.bwTyRx{list-style-type:none}.imKhmc{padding:9px 0 20px;margin:0}.iAXteY{margin:0 4px 0 20px;float:left}.jYdeWN{display:flex;position:relative;align-items:center;color:#fff;font:bold 20px 'Indy Serif','Indy Serif Fallback',serif;letter-spacing:-0.5px}.jYdeWN:hover{color:#fff}.jYdeWN:hover::after{position:absolute;bottom:-9px;left:0;width:100%;height:4px;background:#337e81;content:''}.hkprJT{display:flex;position:relative;align-items:center;color:#fff;font:bold 20px 'Indy Serif','Indy Serif Fallback',serif;letter-spacing:-0.5px}.hkprJT:hover{color:#fff}.hkprJT:hover::after{position:absolute;bottom:-9px;left:0;width:100%;height:4px;background:#0074bd;content:''}.gcHeD{display:flex;position:relative;align-items:center;color:#fff;font:bold 20px 'Indy Serif','Indy Serif Fallback',serif;letter-spacing:-0.5px}.gcHeD:hover{color:#fff}.gcHeD:hover::after{position:absolute;bottom:-9px;left:0;width:100%;height:4px;background:#ec1a2e;content:''}.iBDYsP{display:none;position:absolute;left:0;width:100vw;background:#353533}.bgiyGu{display:flex;width:1000px;padding:16px 0;margin:0 auto}@media(min-width:1250px){.bgiyGu{width:1250px}}.CnZvM{display:none;z-index:1001;margin-right:auto;font:bold 14px 'Indy Sans CAPS','Indy Sans CAPS Fallback',sans-serif}@media(min-width:1000px){.mode-mouse .CnZvM:hover .primary-link{background:#353533;color:#fff}.mode-mouse .CnZvM:hover .primary-link::after{content:none}.mode-mouse .CnZvM:hover .secondary-nav{display:block}}@media(min-width:1000px){body:not(.mode-touch) .CnZvM:hover .primary-trigger{z-index:1}}.CnZvM.primary-item__open .primary-trigger{color:#fff}.CnZvM.primary-item__open .secondary-nav{display:block}.CnZvM .primary-trigger{position:absolute;z-index:3;overflow:hidden;height:34px;padding:0 12px;border:0;background:0;cursor:default;opacity:0;text-transform:uppercase}@media(min-width:1250px){.CnZvM .primary-trigger{padding:0 16px}}.CnZvM .primary-trigger:focus{opacity:100}@media(min-width:1000px){.CnZvM{display:block}}.kyswij{display:flex;position:relative;z-index:2;height:34px;align-items:center;justify-content:center;padding:0 12px;color:#222;cursor:pointer;line-height:normal;text-transform:uppercase}@media(min-width:1250px){.kyswij{padding:0 16px}}.kyswij:hover{background:#353533;color:#fff}.kyswij:hover::after{content:none}.primary-item__open .kyswij{background:#353533;color:#fff}.primary-item__open .kyswij::after{content:none}.czybAP{margin-left:auto}.aZEtr{list-style-type:none}.aZEtr:first-child{display:none}.mode-keyboard-active .aZEtr:first-child,.mode-touch .aZEtr:first-child{display:list-item}.PybPA{display:flex;width:200px;align-items:center;padding:10px 12px 10px 20px;background:#fff;color:#222;font:normal 16px/1.44em 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}.PybPA:hover{background:#353533;color:#fff}.bqemgk{display:none;position:absolute;z-index:1002;padding:1px 0 0;margin:0;box-shadow:0 2px 2px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.25)}.iA-dsQV{display:flex;position:relative;z-index:2;height:34px;align-items:center;justify-content:center;padding:0 12px;color:#222;letter-spacing:-0.2px;line-height:normal;text-transform:uppercase}.iA-dsQV.primary-link{font:normal 14px 'Indy Sans CAPS','Indy Sans CAPS Fallback',sans-serif}.iA-dsQV:hover{color:#222}@media(min-width:1000px){.iA-dsQV{padding:0 12px}.mode-touch .iA-dsQV{pointer-events:none}.primary-item__open .iA-dsQV{background:#f7f7f7}.primary-item__open .iA-dsQV::after{position:absolute;bottom:0;left:0;width:100%;height:4px;background:#ec1a2e;content:''}}@media(min-width:1250px){.iA-dsQV{padding:0 16px}}.fLYihy::after{position:absolute;bottom:0;left:0;width:100%;height:4px;background:#ec1a2e;content:''}.dmIBzE{display:inline-block;font:bold 14px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;list-style-type:none}.dmIBzE:first-child .sc-12qu2kl-0{justify-content:start;padding:0 12px}@media(min-width:1000px){.dmIBzE:first-child .sc-12qu2kl-0{padding:0 12px}}@media(min-width:1250px){.dmIBzE:first-child .sc-12qu2kl-0{padding:0 16px}}@media(min-width:1000px){.mode-mouse .dmIBzE:hover .sc-12qu2kl-0{background:#f7f7f7}.mode-mouse .dmIBzE:hover .sc-12qu2kl-0::after{position:absolute;bottom:0;left:0;width:100%;height:4px;background:#ec1a2e;content:''}.mode-mouse .dmIBzE:hover .sc-12qu2kl-1,.mode-mouse .dmIBzE:hover .sc-12qu2kl-3{background:#fde8ea}.mode-mouse .dmIBzE:hover .sc-12qu2kl-1::after,.mode-mouse .dmIBzE:hover .sc-12qu2kl-3::after{position:absolute;bottom:0;left:0;width:100%;height:4px;background:#ac2a2c;content:''}.mode-mouse .dmIBzE:hover .secondary-nav{display:block}}@media(min-width:1000px){body:not(.mode-touch) .dmIBzE:hover .primary-trigger{z-index:1}}.dmIBzE.primary-item__open .secondary-nav{display:block}.dmIBzE .primary-trigger{display:none;position:absolute;z-index:3;overflow:hidden;height:34px;padding:0 12px;border:0;background:0;cursor:default;letter-spacing:-0.2px;opacity:0;text-transform:uppercase}.dmIBzE .primary-trigger:focus{opacity:100}@media(min-width:1000px){.dmIBzE .primary-trigger{display:block}}@media(min-width:1250px){.dmIBzE .primary-trigger{padding:0 16px}}.gCQcFz{display:flex;overflow:hidden;height:34px;border:solid #d3d3d3;border-width:1px 0}@media(min-width:1000px){.gCQcFz{overflow:visible}}.cuUGzT{display:none;width:128px;height:19px;margin:7px 20px 0 0}@media(min-width:1000px){.cuUGzT{display:flex;align-items:center}}.dUfnkz{display:flex;width:100%;align-items:center}.PERra{display:flex;width:100%;max-width:1000px}@media(min-width:1000px){.PERra{box-sizing:border-box;margin:0 auto;border:solid #d3d3d3;border-width:0 1px}}@media(min-width:1250px){.PERra{max-width:1250px}}.iuTYFi{display:flex;width:100%;height:34px;box-sizing:border-box;flex-flow:wrap;justify-content:space-between;padding:0 2px 0 0;margin:0}@media(min-width:768px){.iuTYFi{display:flex;width:auto;flex-direction:row;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:flex-start;padding:0}}.gHYEVW{--bleed:12px;width:100%;padding:0 var(--bleed);margin:0 auto}@media(min-width:768px){.gHYEVW{max-width:640px;padding:0}}@media(min-width:1000px){.gHYEVW{max-width:1000px;padding:0 16px}}.kSzXIA{display:inline}@media(max-width:424px){.kSzXIA{display:none}}.eXLcRx{display:none}@media(max-width:424px){.eXLcRx{display:inline}}.fkPOZn{margin:0;color:#646464;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:18px;font-weight:normal;line-height:21px}.fDztze{display:flex}.iwnwDu{margin:0;color:#646464;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:21px;font-weight:bold;line-height:18px}.gusQYW{display:grid;width:100%;align-items:center;margin-left:12px;color:#222;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;grid-gap:12px}@media(max-width:374px){.gusQYW{flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-start}}.kiloul{display:flex;position:sticky;bottom:0;z-index:9999999;width:100%;box-sizing:border-box;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;padding:14px 0;margin:0 auto;border-top:3px solid #157f1f;background:#fff;box-shadow:0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.5);transition:all .3s ease-in-out}.kiloul.hide{bottom:-100px;opacity:0;visibility:hidden}.iXzeFI{color:#157f1f}.cGjRoo{position:fixed;top:0;bottom:auto}.cGjRoo .sc-govabo-0{box-sizing:border-box}.cGjRoo.hide{bottom:auto;transform:translateY(-100%)}.cXaBJq{border-bottom:1px solid #d3d3d3;background:#f7f7f7}.gQWUzM{display:flex;max-width:1000px;align-items:center;margin:0 auto}@media(min-width:1250px){.gQWUzM{max-width:1250px}}.ichdJt{--border:1px solid #d3d3d3}.ichdJt .sc-zkjqbw-1{height:32px;justify-content:end}.jWUhhI{height:100%;border-right:var(--border);border-left:var(--border)}.diFkEu{margin-right:auto;border:0}.crhajT{display:flex}.fRZImV{--color:#222;color:var(--dropdown-trigger-color,var(--color));cursor:pointer}.fRZImV[aria-disabled='true']{--dropdown-trigger-color:#bbb}.fsGSjK{display:grid;grid-template-rows:0fr;transition:grid-template-rows 150ms ease-in-out}.knSEIJ{overflow:hidden;min-height:var(--dropdown-content-initial-height)}.hmFUdD{margin-right:-4px;transition:transform ease-out .2s}.bfKgyx{background:#f7f7f7}.cFdhkO{display:flex;height:18px;align-items:center;padding:8px 24px;border-top:1px solid #d3d3d3;background-color:transparent;color:#222;font:normal 14px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}.cFdhkO:active,.cFdhkO:hover{background-color:#353533;color:#fff}.cFdhkO .sc-fxzxid-0{margin-left:auto}.cjQBZl{width:144px;padding-right:12px;padding-left:12px;border:solid #d3d3d3;border-width:0 1px;font-weight:normal}.kfGPWG [aria-hidden]{box-shadow:0 2px 2px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.25)}.dICNzG{height:49px;box-sizing:border-box;padding:16px;border:0;background:#fff;cursor:pointer;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;text-transform:uppercase}.dICNzG:active{outline:0}[aria-expanded='true'] .dICNzG{background-color:#353533;color:#fff}[aria-expanded='true'] .dICNzG .sc-fxzxid-0{transform:rotate(180deg)}@media(min-width:768px){.dICNzG{height:56px}}.bvRWnw{width:170px;height:32px;padding:0 12px;border-right:1px solid #d3d3d3;border-left:1px solid #d3d3d3;background:0;transition:background .2s;font:bold 12px/16px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;text-transform:uppercase}.bvRWnw:hover{background-color:#353533;color:#fff}.bvRWnw .sc-fxzxid-0{margin-left:auto}.cXLKCe{display:flex;height:100%;align-items:center}.cnvwpB{overflow:hidden;width:0}.bFPIDY{margin:0 10px 0 0}.jfaCBj{display:block;margin-top:-1px;color:#222;font-size:10px}.lmSlWJ{display:flex;width:100%;height:49px;box-sizing:border-box;align-items:center;padding:13px 14px 12px;border:solid #d3d3d3;border-width:1px 0;color:#222;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;text-transform:uppercase;transition:background .2s}.lmSlWJ:hover{background:#353533}.lmSlWJ:hover,.lmSlWJ:hover .sc-prfj1i-6{color:#fff}.lmSlWJ.register-profile-link{text-transform:capitalize}.hlVawa{width:auto;height:32px;padding:0 12px;border-top:0;border-bottom:0;background:0}.jOljop{display:none;height:32px;align-items:center;padding:0 12px;border-right:1px solid #d3d3d3;color:#222;text-transform:uppercase;transition:background .2s;font:bold 12px/16px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;text-transform:uppercase}.jOljop:hover{background:#353533;color:#fff}.cjYzEC{display:flex;height:32px;align-items:center;padding:0 12px;border-right:1px solid #d3d3d3;background:#337e81;color:#fff;text-transform:uppercase;transition:background .2s;font:bold 12px/16px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;text-transform:uppercase}.cjYzEC:hover{background:#386366;color:#fff}.eCfgRr{position:relative;z-index:4;margin-top:-49px;border-bottom:1px solid #d3d3d3}@media(min-width:768px){.eCfgRr{margin:0 auto 0 0}}.ijSINX{display:none}@media(min-width:1000px){.ijSINX{display:block}}.fBhkdt{display:flex;width:55px;height:49px;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;justify-content:center;row-gap:4px;column-gap:8px;margin-left:auto;border-left:1px solid #d3d3d3;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:10px;font-weight:bold}.fBhkdt:active{background-color:#353533;color:#fff}@media(min-width:768px){.fBhkdt{width:88px;height:56px;flex-direction:row-reverse}}@media(min-width:1000px){.fBhkdt{display:none}}.bBqXuH{margin-left:auto}@media(min-width:1000px){.bBqXuH{display:none}}.jeKuoe{display:none;position:absolute;top:12px;right:69px;width:60px;height:24px;box-sizing:border-box;align-items:center;justify-content:center;border-radius:4px;background:#337e81;color:#fff;font-size:10px;line-height:20px}.jeKuoe:hover{background:#386366;color:#fff}@media(min-width:320px){.jeKuoe{display:flex}}@media(min-width:375px){.jeKuoe{top:11px;width:70px;height:26px;font-size:12px}}@media(min-width:768px){.jeKuoe{top:16px;right:102px;width:80px;height:28px;font-size:14px}}@media(min-width:1000px){.jeKuoe{display:none}}.isXhlX{display:none;position:absolute;top:15px;right:190px;box-sizing:border-box;gap:8px}@media(min-width:768px){.isXhlX{display:flex;top:16px}}@media(min-width:1000px){.isXhlX{top:23px;right:222px;gap:16px}}.hCjSXZ{right:204px}@media(min-width:1000px){.hCjSXZ{right:222px}}.bATaaO{display:none;width:140px;height:32px;box-sizing:border-box;flex:1;align-items:center;padding:0 8px;border:1px solid #d3d3d3;border-radius:4px;background:#fff;color:#222;font:bold 12px/16px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;transition:background .2s}.bATaaO:active,.bATaaO:hover{border-color:#353533;background:#353533;color:#fff}.bATaaO:nth-child(2){display:none;margin-left:auto}@media(min-width:1000px){.bATaaO:nth-child(2){display:flex}}@media(min-width:768px){.bATaaO{display:flex;height:28px;justify-content:space-between}}@media(min-width:1000px){.bATaaO{height:32px}}.lihAma{display:block;overflow:hidden;padding-right:12px;line-height:normal;text-overflow:ellipsis;white-space:nowrap}.jNczEZ{position:relative;z-index:1001;margin:0 auto;background:#fff}.hJCoPj{display:flex;position:relative;max-width:1000px;margin:0 auto;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-weight:bold}@media(min-width:1250px){.hJCoPj{width:1250px;max-width:none}}.eiXJwO{position:relative;width:100%;max-width:1000px;margin:0 auto;background:#222}@media(min-width:1000px){.eiXJwO{width:1000px;max-width:none}}@media(min-width:1250px){.eiXJwO{width:1250px}}.euJsHj{position:relative;background:#222}.cOYsmh{position:absolute;left:-9999px;opacity:0;visibility:hidden}.laMqUw{position:sticky;bottom:0;z-index:1000000;width:100vw}.laMqUw.hidden{display:none}.laMqUw.bottom-piano-prompt{position:relative}.laMqUw.sticky-prompt{position:sticky}.laMqUw.hide{display:none}.laMqUw.active{background-color:#fff;box-shadow:0 -29px 65px 35px dark:rgba(0,0,0,0.5);light:rgba(0,0,0,0.25)}.cHzBly{display:none;position:absolute}@media(min-width:1000px){.cHzBly{display:block}}.SuLPo{flex-direction:column}.gxeWA{--bg:#fff;position:fixed;bottom:0;left:0;z-index:2147483641;width:100%;height:50px;max-height:100px;margin-bottom:0;background-color:var(--bg);background-image:none;box-shadow:0 0 5px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5);text-align:center}.gxeWA .article-best .stickyFooterRoot{display:none}@media(min-width:768px){.gxeWA{height:90px}}@media(min-width:1000px){.gxeWA{display:none}}.hzqhgn{width:320px;height:50px;margin:0 auto}@media(min-width:768px){.hzqhgn{width:728px;height:90px}}.jHFBYy{position:absolute}@media(min-width:1000px){.jHFBYy{display:none}}.jjTNLD{position:sticky;top:100px;left:0;z-index:10;height:0;padding:0}.fpbYLV{width:100%;max-width:968px;height:250px;padding:0;margin-right:auto;margin-left:auto;background:transparent;text-align:center;display:none}@media(min-width:1000px){.fpbYLV{display:flex}}.fpbYLV.sticky{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:1000}.fpbYLV #top_banner:not(.sticky){position:sticky;top:0;z-index:1;width:968px}.kChsty{position:absolute;top:0;left:0}.bNNNXy{width:100%;height:100%}.jJtNAJ{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;justify-content:space-around;margin-bottom:16px}@media(min-width:1000px){.jJtNAJ{flex-direction:row}}.jJtNAJ>div{overflow:hidden;width:300px;height:250px;margin:8px}.bGPFDl:has(#taboola-below-article-thumbnails-crime){min-height:3169px}@media(min-width:1000px){.bGPFDl:has(#taboola-below-article-thumbnails-crime){min-height:756px}}.fDXhLE{min-height:360px}@media(min-width:425px){.fDXhLE{min-height:330px}}@media(min-width:768px){.fDXhLE{min-height:320px}}.gSAoMb{position:relative;top:-38px}@media(min-width:425px){.gSAoMb{top:-92px}}@media(min-width:595px){.gSAoMb{top:-53px}}@media(min-width:768px){.gSAoMb{top:-61px}}@media(min-width:1000px){.gSAoMb{top:-100px}}.enNoQV.height-limited{position:relative;height:600px;margin-bottom:15px;overflow-y:hidden}.enNoQV.height-limited::after{--fade-from:rgba(247,247,247,0);--fade-to:#f7f7f7;position:absolute;bottom:0;left:0;z-index:1;width:100%;height:135px;background-image:linear-gradient(to bottom,var(--fade-from) var(--fade-to));content:''}.enNoQV>.show-more{position:absolute;right:0;bottom:16px;left:0;z-index:2;padding:8px 16px;margin-right:auto;margin-left:auto;border-radius:4px;background-color:#fff;box-shadow:0 1px 2px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0.5px .5px 2px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5);color:#646464;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:12px;line-height:18px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf-button{border-radius:4px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-heading-text{position:relative;visibility:hidden}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-heading-text::after{position:absolute;top:0;left:0;color:#222;content:'Comments';font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:24px;font-weight:bold;line-height:1.08;visibility:visible}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form{margin-right:0;margin-left:0}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form #add-nickname-form h2{max-width:450px;margin-bottom:5px;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:18px;font-weight:normal;line-height:18px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form #add-nickname-form p{max-width:450px;color:#646464;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-weight:normal;line-height:18px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form #add-nickname-form div{display:flex;flex-direction:row;padding-top:10px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form #add-nickname-form div input{flex:1;padding:19px 0 17px 16px;margin-right:20px;border:solid 1px #d3d3d3;border-radius:4px;color:#646464;font-size:16px;line-height:20px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form #add-nickname-form div input:invalid{border:solid 2px #a20021;background-color:#fff;outline:0}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form #add-nickname-form div button{padding:12px 16px;border-radius:4px;background-color:#ec1a2e;color:#fff;font:bold 14px/18px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form #add-nickname-form div button:disabled{background-color:#bbb}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form .vf-content-layout{padding-left:0}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form .vf-content-layout .vf-content-layout__left{display:none}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form .vf-content-layout .vf-content-layout__right::before,.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form .vf-content-layout .vf-content-layout__right::after{top:auto;right:30px;bottom:-6px;left:auto;transform:rotate(-45deg)}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form .vf-content-layout .vf-content-layout__right textarea{color:#646464;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:16px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form .vf-content-layout .vf-content-layout__right textarea::placeholder,.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf-post-form .vf-content-layout .vf-content-layout__right textarea::-webkit-input-placeholder{color:#646464}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments nav.vf-tabbed-nav{height:56px;border-top:1px solid #d3d3d3}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments nav.vf-tabbed-nav ul li button.vf-nav-button{padding:11px 0 14px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments nav.vf-tabbed-nav ul li button.vf-nav-button::before{border-color:#ec1a2e}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments nav.vf-tabbed-nav ul li button.vf-nav-button .vf-nav-label .vf-label-text{color:#646464;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:18px;font-weight:bold;line-height:16px;text-transform:capitalize}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments nav.vf-tabbed-nav ul li button.vf-nav-button .vf-nav-label .vf-badge{position:relative;top:-3px;font-size:12px;line-height:12px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments nav.vf-tabbed-nav .comment-nav-right .vf-dropdown .vf-dropdown-button{color:#646464;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:16px;font-weight:normal;line-height:16px;text-transform:none}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments nav.vf-tabbed-nav .comment-nav-right .vf-dropdown .vf-dropdown-button .vf-icon-svg--stroke{stroke:#646464}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments nav.vf-tabbed-nav .comment-nav-right .vf-dropdown .vf-dropdown-button .vf-icon-svg--stroke line{stroke-width:2px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments{background-color:#f7f7f7}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment::after{background-color:transparent}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout{padding:12px 15px 16px 27px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-layout__left{margin-right:16px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-layout__right>.vf3-comment__header>.vf-dropdown{top:20px;opacity:1}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf3-comment__header{padding-bottom:16px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-post-details{display:block}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-post-details .vf-post-name-button em{color:#222;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:16px;font-weight:bold;line-height:16px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-post-details .vf-label-with-dot{margin:4px 31px 0 0;color:#646464;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-weight:normal;line-height:16px;text-transform:none}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-post-details .vf-label-with-dot::before{display:none}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-text p{color:#646464;font-size:16px;line-height:23.2px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__left-actions{width:100%}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__left-actions button.vf-content-actions__left-action{color:#646464;font-size:16px;line-height:18px;opacity:1;text-decoration:underline;text-transform:capitalize}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__left-actions button.vf-content-actions__left-action.vf-content-actions__like,.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__left-actions button.vf-content-actions__left-action.vf-content-actions__dislike{padding:5px 34px 5px 5px;margin:0;background-color:#f7f7f7;background-repeat:no-repeat;color:#646464;font-size:12px;font-weight:bold;line-height:16px;text-decoration:none}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__left-actions button.vf-content-actions__left-action.vf-content-actions__like svg,.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__left-actions button.vf-content-actions__left-action.vf-content-actions__dislike svg{display:none}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__left-actions button.vf-content-actions__left-action.vf-content-actions__like::before,.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__left-actions button.vf-content-actions__left-action.vf-content-actions__dislike::before{display:none}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__left-actions button.vf-content-actions__left-action.vf-content-actions__like:hover,.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__left-actions button.vf-content-actions__left-action.vf-content-actions__dislike:hover{text-decoration:none}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__left-actions button.vf-content-actions__left-action.vf-content-actions__like{margin-left:auto;border-radius:4px 0 0 4px;background-image:url(/img/comments/like.svg);background-position:73% 30%}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__left-actions button.vf-content-actions__left-action.vf-content-actions__dislike{border-radius:0 4px 4px 0;background-image:url(/img/comments/dislike.svg);background-position:73% 70%}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__right-actions{position:absolute;top:0;right:15px;opacity:1}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments article.vf3-comment .vf-content-layout .vf-content-actions.vf-comment-actions .vf-content-actions__right-actions button{font-size:12px;line-height:12px;text-decoration:underline;text-transform:capitalize}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .all-comments .vf-content-focus-container--reply-form .vf-content-layout{padding-left:27px}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf3-comments__bottom-action{padding:15px 10px;margin:0;background-color:#f7f7f7}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf3-comments__bottom-action button.vf-button{width:auto;border:0;box-shadow:0 1px 2px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0.5px .5px 2px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5);color:#646464;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-weight:normal;line-height:18px;text-transform:none}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments .vf3-comments__bottom-action button.vf-button span{color:#646464}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comments footer.vf3-conversations-footer span svg{width:auto}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comment__header .vf-badge{padding:2px 4px;border-radius:4px;background-color:#ec1a2e;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;text-transform:capitalize}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf3-comment__header .vf-custom-badge--journalist{background-color:#ac2a2c}.enNoQV.viafoura .vf-tray-trigger--floating.vf-button{position:relative;right:0;bottom:0}.cLHRRT{position:fixed;right:0;bottom:50px;z-index:10000004}@media(min-width:768px){.cLHRRT{bottom:90px}}@media(min-width:1000px){.cLHRRT{bottom:30px}}.gihRoV{display:flex;max-height:19px;align-items:center;margin-right:19px}.fxtXwi{--color:#bbb;--color-alt:#bbb;--canvas-color:#fff;display:flex;align-items:center;color:var(--color);font:normal 16px/20px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}.fxtXwi:hover,.fxtXwi:active{--color:var(--color-alt);color:var(--color)}.fxtXwi.comments-loaded{--color:#ec1a2e;--color-alt:#ac2a2c}.fxtXwi.comments-loaded:hover,.fxtXwi.comments-loaded:active{--color:var(--color-alt);color:var(--color)}.kSAOsY{--height:18px;--padding:2px;--font-size:calc(var(--height) - var(--padding) * 2);--border-width:1px;--callout-width:7px;--callout-clip-width:calc(var(--callout-width) - (2 * var(--border-width)));display:block;position:relative;min-width:30px;height:var(--height);box-sizing:border-box;padding:0 var(--padding);margin-right:4px;border:var(--border-width) solid var(--color);font-size:var(--font-size);line-height:var(--height);text-align:center}.kSAOsY::before,.kSAOsY::after{position:absolute;top:100%;width:0;height:0;content:''}.kSAOsY::before{right:-1px;border-top:var(--callout-width) solid var(--color);border-left:var(--callout-width) solid transparent}.kSAOsY::after{right:0;border-top:var(--callout-clip-width) solid var(--canvas-color);border-left:var(--callout-clip-width) solid transparent}.kSAOsY .comments-empty,.kSAOsY .comments-empty::before,.kSAOsY .comments-empty::after{display:block;position:absolute;top:6px;left:12px;width:4px;height:4px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--color)}.kSAOsY .comments-empty::before,.kSAOsY .comments-empty::after{top:0;left:-6px;content:''}.kSAOsY .comments-empty::after{left:6px}.cPUOXM{position:relative;padding:10px 0 8px 35px;margin-bottom:20px;border:solid #d3d3d3;border-width:1px 0}@media(min-width:768px){.cPUOXM{padding:6px 0 4px 50px}}.ePOWEe{display:none;margin-left:2px}.fHoGsk{width:max-content;padding-bottom:6px}.fHoGsk.comments-loaded .sc-qsla4c-1{display:block;width:19px;height:20px}.kQZunw{margin:0 0 8px;color:#646464;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:12px;line-height:1.33}@media(min-width:768px){.kQZunw{font-size:14px;line-height:1.29}}.goyZT{margin:0 0 4px;color:#222;font-size:16px;font-weight:bold;line-height:1.25}@media(min-width:768px){.goyZT{font-size:18px;line-height:1.45}}.gQogX{position:absolute;top:12px;left:0;width:23px;height:23px;border-radius:50%;background-color:#ec1a2e}@media(min-width:768px){.gQogX{top:10px;width:34px;height:34px}}@media(min-width:1000px){.qHctg .taboola{display:none}}.qHctg:has(#taboola-carousel-thumbnails){min-height:426px}.qHctg:has(#taboola-mid-article-thumbnails-crime){min-height:405px}@media(min-width:1000px){.qHctg:has(#taboola-carousel-thumbnails),.qHctg:has(#taboola-mid-article-thumbnails-crime){min-height:0}}.hCEqSm .tp-container-inner,.hCEqSm .sc-1suqprf-0{position:relative;box-shadow:0 -22px 16px 22px rgba(255,255,255,0.95)}.hCEqSm.closed{display:none}.jZkFWa{width:32px;color:#3b5998}@media(min-width:768px){.jZkFWa.mobile-only{display:none}}.jZkFWa:hover{color:#2f4779}.iyaxjG{width:32px;color:#000}@media(min-width:768px){.iyaxjG.mobile-only{display:none}}.iyaxjG:hover{color:#4e4e4e}.bxTlJH{width:32px;color:#25d366}@media(min-width:768px){.bxTlJH.mobile-only{display:none}}.bxTlJH:hover{color:#1da851}.cSnwsm{width:32px;color:#ec1a2e}@media(min-width:768px){.cSnwsm.mobile-only{display:none}}.cSnwsm:hover{color:#ac2a2c}.wViVX{display:flex;gap:12px}.cArLiK .sc-17yxc4y-0{display:none}.cArLiK:hover .sc-17yxc4y-0,.cArLiK.bookmark-button-saved .sc-17yxc4y-0{display:block}.cArLiK:hover .sc-17yxc4y-1,.cArLiK.bookmark-button-saved .sc-17yxc4y-1{display:none}.cArLiK.bookmark-button-saved .sc-17yxc4y-0{display:block}.cArLiK.bookmark-button-saved .sc-17yxc4y-1{display:none}.cArLiK.bookmark-button-saved:hover .sc-17yxc4y-0{display:none}.cArLiK.bookmark-button-saved:hover .sc-17yxc4y-1{display:block}.ldnLrS{display:inline-block;width:32px;height:32px;color:#337e81}.ixvYXS{display:flex;flex-direction:row;justify-content:center;gap:12px}.hCHeth{display:flex;position:relative;justify-content:center}@media(min-width:768px){.hCHeth{justify-content:flex-end;padding-top:12px;margin:0}}.hvJvAA{display:flex}.sticky .hvJvAA{flex-direction:column}.kciiLJ{overflow:hidden;height:23px;margin-bottom:8px;border-bottom:0;clear:both}@media(min-width:768px){.kciiLJ{height:25px}}.fSsEip{display:inline-block;flex-shrink:0;margin:0 12px 0 0;font:bold 14px/normal 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}.fSsEip::after{content:':'}.kdqbii{display:inline-block;margin-right:12px;margin-bottom:4px;color:#222;font:normal 14px/1.29 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;text-decoration:underline}.kdqbii::first-letter {text-transform:capitalize}@media(min-width:1000px){.subscribed .lkPksW{margin-top:-184px}.article-feature:not(.article-feature-video) .subscribed .lkPksW{margin-top:-407px}}.lkPksW>p{margin:16px 0}.article-premium .lkPksW>p{line-height:27px}.lkPksW>h2{font-size:21px}.article-climate .lkPksW>h2{color:#ec1a2e}.article-sgi .lkPksW>h2{color:#ec1a2e}.lkPksW>p:first-child{margin-top:0}.lkPksW span:first-child~p:first-of-type{margin-top:0}.cnknzo{display:flex;position:relative;max-width:100%;min-height:600px;justify-content:center;margin:0 auto;background-color:transparent;clear:both}@media(min-width:1000px){.cnknzo{min-height:450px}}.teads .cnknzo{display:block}.cnknzo [data-mpu]{position:sticky;top:16px}@media(min-width:1000px){.dTdlgq{display:none}}.dTdlgq[data-mpu1]{min-height:600px}.dTdlgq.pb-20{padding-bottom:20px}.dbefri{box-sizing:border-box;flex:1;padding:12px 16px 8px 12px}@media(max-width:594px){.dbefri{padding-bottom:12px}}.idMylZ{border-radius:50%}.exnbsn{background:#ec1a2e}.jQGkpO{display:flex;position:relative}.gQaMJW{margin:0;color:#222;font:bold 16px/19.2px 'Indy Serif','Indy Serif Fallback',serif}@media(max-width:594px){.gQaMJW{display:none}}.focVkI{display:none;margin:0;color:#222;font:bold 20px/24px 'Indy Serif','Indy Serif Fallback',serif}@media(max-width:594px){.focVkI{display:block}}.kzxhaH{display:none}.evDZRN{display:flex;flex:1;justify-content:flex-end;margin-left:28px}.evDZRN svg{width:30px;height:30px}.eshVLV{position:relative;overflow:hidden;width:135px}.eshVLV img{object-fit:cover}@media(max-width:594px){.eshVLV{display:none}}.knIyCe{position:relative;color:#646464;cursor:pointer;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:9px}.knIyCe::before{position:absolute;top:-3px;left:-21px;width:14px;height:14px;box-sizing:border-box;border:1px solid #919191;content:''}@media(max-width:594px){.knIyCe::before{width:24px;height:24px}}.jstemT{display:inline-flex;position:relative;min-height:14px;align-items:center;padding-left:22px;margin-top:14px;cursor:pointer}.jstemT a{display:inline;color:#646464;text-decoration:underline}.jstemT input{position:absolute;width:0;height:0;cursor:pointer;opacity:0}.jstemT input:checked~.sc-76suco-0:before{content:url(/img/icons/checkboxCheckmark.svg)}@media(max-width:594px){.jstemT{padding-left:32px;margin-top:22px}}.cRKQtK{--input-height:38px;margin-top:12px}.cRKQtK .reg-form{position:relative}.cRKQtK .reg-form .sc-1sk658j-1,.cRKQtK .reg-form .error-text{position:absolute;top:var(--input-height);z-index:1;width:calc(100% + 77px + 16px);height:28px;margin:3px 0 0;background:#fff}@media(max-width:594px){.cRKQtK .reg-form .sc-1sk658j-1,.cRKQtK .reg-form .error-text{padding-left:0}}.cRKQtK .reg-form .csr-error-message{position:absolute;top:var(--input-height);z-index:1;width:calc(100% + 77px + 16px);height:28px;margin:3px 0 0;background-color:#fff}.cRKQtK .reg-form .sc-1sk658j-1{width:100%;padding-left:16px;color:#a20021;font:normal 12px/16px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}.cRKQtK .reg-form .not-logged-input:focus{border-color:#276fbf}.cRKQtK .reg-form .not-logged-input:focus~.error-text.visible{display:none}.cRKQtK .reg-form.user-invalid.amp-form-verify-error .not-logged-input{border-color:#a20021}.cRKQtK .reg-form.user-invalid.amp-form-verify-error .not-logged-input:focus~.error-text.visible{display:block}.cRKQtK .reg-form.user-valid .not-logged-input{border-color:#157f1f}.kdQijL{display:flex;flex:1}.kdQijL>div.signup-btn{margin:0 0 0 16px}.kdQijL>div.signup-btn.logged-in{width:100%;margin:0}.kdQijL>div.signup-btn.logged-in button{width:100%}.kdQijL>div.signup-btn button{width:77px;height:var(--input-height)}.kdQijL .form-fields{flex:1}.kdQijL .not-logged-input{height:var(--input-height)}.kdQijL .emailInputWrapper:not([amp-access-hide]){display:flex;flex:1}@media(max-width:594px){.idIGdR .checkmark:before{top:-6px;left:-32px}}@media(max-width:319px){.idIGdR .checkmark:before{top:2px;left:-32px}}.cXWKwW{display:flex;width:100%;box-sizing:border-box;margin:0 0 16px;border:1px solid #d3d3d3}.dVyExd{display:flex;min-height:600px;justify-content:center}@media(min-width:1000px){.dVyExd{min-height:450px}}.jHlYLm{min-height:600px}@media(min-width:1000px){.jHlYLm{min-height:450px}}.jHlYLm.mobile-only{display:block}@media(min-width:1000px){.jHlYLm.mobile-only{display:none}}.jHlYLm.desktop-only{display:none}@media(min-width:1000px){.jHlYLm.desktop-only{display:block;margin-bottom:16px}}.jHlYLm.desktop-only+p{margin-top:0}.jHlYLm .third-party-ad{position:sticky;top:16px}.czoMqL{width:100%;flex-grow:1}.czoMqL .amp-article-content[amp-access][amp-access-hide]{display:block;overflow:hidden;max-height:360px}.czoMqL .amp-article-content[amp-access][amp-access-hide] .social-share{display:none}.czoMqL .amp-article-content[amp-access][amp-access-hide].show-all-content{max-height:100%}@media(max-width:594px){.czoMqL .amp-article-content[amp-access][amp-access-hide]{max-height:530px}}.czoMqL .amp-newsletter-reg-gate{position:relative;left:-12px;width:calc(100% + 24px)}.czoMqL .social-share{width:100%;padding-top:10px;padding-bottom:20px}@media(min-width:768px){.czoMqL .social-share{justify-content:flex-start}}.czoMqL .social-share.sticky{display:none}@media(min-width:1000px){.czoMqL .social-share.sticky{display:flex;position:sticky;top:14px;width:34px;flex-direction:column;padding-top:0;margin-top:0;margin-left:-25%}.czoMqL .social-share.sticky amp-social-share,.czoMqL .social-share.sticky .sc-mgcah7-0{margin:0 0 16px}.article-feature-video .czoMqL .social-share.sticky{margin-top:0}.article-feature:not(.article-feature-video) .czoMqL .social-share.sticky{margin-top:35%}}.czoMqL.sponsored-article img,.czoMqL.sponsored-article video{width:100%;max-width:602px;height:auto}.czoMqL.sponsored-article iframe{max-width:602px;max-height:400px}.czoMqL .under-article-prompt-donations{padding-bottom:8px;margin-top:-3px}.czoMqL .big-letter{--color:#222;display:flex;position:relative;width:0;height:0;align-items:center;justify-content:center;padding:40px;margin-top:22px;margin-right:12px;border:1px solid var(--color);float:left;font:normal 52px/1 'Indy Serif','Indy Serif Fallback',serif;text-transform:uppercase}.czoMqL .big-letter:first-child{margin-top:6px}.czoMqL .big-letter::before{position:absolute;top:0;left:0;width:100%;height:100%;box-sizing:border-box;border:1px solid var(--color);border-radius:50%;content:''}.czoMqL #taboola-below-article-1{min-height:2350px}@media(min-width:768px){.czoMqL #taboola-below-article-1{min-height:3370px}}.czoMqL #taboola-below-article-1-split-num-1{min-height:130px}@media(min-width:768px){.czoMqL #taboola-below-article-1-split-num-1{min-height:415px}}.czoMqL .sc-fwko30-0+.sc-1xtsh2b-0{margin-top:-16px}@media(min-width:768px){.czoMqL{max-width:636px;margin:0}}@media(min-width:1000px){.czoMqL{max-width:624px;margin:0}.czoMqL.subscribed{max-width:636px}}@media(max-width:999px){.czoMqL{padding-right:0}.czoMqL .under-article-prompt-donations{margin-top:-18px}}.czoMqL .anchor-nav-header{scroll-margin-top:79px}.czoMqL .anchor-nav-header a{color:#222}.czoMqL .anchor-nav-header a:hover{color:#222}.clVPNf{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:flex-start;margin-bottom:8px;color:#646464;font:normal 16px/20px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}@media(min-width:768px){.clVPNf{width:70%;align-items:center;justify-content:flex-start;margin-bottom:0;font:normal 16px/24px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}}@media(min-width:1000px){.clVPNf{width:70%;margin-bottom:0}}.hIiCJP{display:flex;height:20px;margin:0 12px 8px 0}.article-voices .hIiCJP{height:auto}@media(min-width:425px){.article-voices .hIiCJP{height:20px}}.hIiCJP::before{display:inline-block;align-self:center;margin-top:1px;margin-right:12px;content:'\2022';transform:scale(1.5)}.hIiCJP:first-child::before{content:none}@media(min-width:768px){.hIiCJP{height:24px;margin-bottom:0}.hIiCJP::before{margin-top:2px}}.hIiCJP time{display:block}.hIiCJP time::first-letter {text-transform:capitalize}.eNJptR{display:inline-block;margin:0 12px 8px 0;color:#ec1a2e;font:bold 16px/20px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;letter-spacing:-0.5px}.eNJptR:hover,.eNJptR:active{color:#ac2a2c}@media(min-width:768px){.eNJptR{margin-bottom:0}}.cePgis{margin:0 4px 8px 0}.cePgis::before{display:inline-block;margin-top:2px;margin-right:12px;color:#646464;content:'\2022';transform:scale(1.5)}.cePgis:first-child::before{display:none}@media(min-width:768px){.cePgis{margin-bottom:0}}.kuCYzg{display:flex;justify-content:flex-start;padding:0;margin:0 0 16px}@media(min-width:768px){.kuCYzg{display:flex;width:30%;align-items:center;justify-content:flex-end;margin:0}}@media(min-width:1000px){.kuCYzg{width:30%}}.gpMjkH{padding-top:0;border-top:0;border-bottom:0}@media(min-width:768px){.gpMjkH{display:flex;flex-flow:row wrap;padding-bottom:16px}.gpMjkH .sc-1qz44j0-0{order:1}.gpMjkH .sc-1qz44j0-6{order:2}}@media(min-width:1000px){.gpMjkH{flex-direction:row}}.hUayVl{padding:16px 12px 12px;text-align:left;font:bold 14px/18px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}@media(min-width:768px){.hUayVl{padding:16px 16px 12px}}.article-infact .hUayVl{padding:16px 0}@media(min-width:1000px){.hUayVl{padding:24px 0 19px}.article-feature .hUayVl{max-width:968px;margin:0 auto}}.hUayVl a{color:#222}.hUayVl a:hover{color:#ac2a2c}.hUayVl a:hover::after{color:#222}.hUayVl a::after{margin-right:4px;margin-left:4px;content:'>'}.hUayVl a:last-child::after{display:none}.bPeEQC{margin:0 0 20px;letter-spacing:0}.iHWilb{margin:0;color:#646464;font:normal 16px/20px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}@media(min-width:768px){.iHWilb{font:normal 18px/22px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}}@media(min-width:1000px){.iHWilb{font:normal 20px/24px 'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif}}.iHWilb p{font:inherit}.article-feature .iHWilb a{font-weight:bold}.gRuXKg{max-width:968px;margin:0 auto;background:#fff}@media(min-width:1000px){.gRuXKg{padding:0 16px}.parallax .gRuXKg{max-width:1240px}}.clZtvZ{font:bold 32px/36px 'Indy Serif','Indy Serif Fallback',serif;letter-spacing:-0.0156em}@media(min-width:768px){.clZtvZ{font:bold 44px/48px 'Indy Serif','Indy Serif Fallback',serif;letter-spacing:-0.0113em}}@media(min-width:1000px){.clZtvZ{font:bold 54px/58px 'Indy Serif','Indy Serif Fallback',serif;letter-spacing:-0.0092em}}.gLQzaj .sc-qvufca-0{margin:0 12px}@media(min-width:768px){.gLQzaj .sc-qvufca-0{max-width:968px;margin-right:16px;margin-left:16px}}@media(min-width:1000px){.gLQzaj .sc-qvufca-0{margin-right:auto;margin-left:auto}}.gLQzaj .sc-qvufca-2{margin-bottom:16px;color:#222}@media(min-width:768px){.gLQzaj .sc-qvufca-2{margin-bottom:18px}}@media(min-width:1000px){.gLQzaj .sc-qvufca-2{margin-top:0}}.article-feature .gLQzaj .sc-qvufca-2{text-align:center}@media(min-width:1000px){.article-feature .gLQzaj .sc-qvufca-2{max-width:968px}}.gLQzaj .sc-aeekvc-0{margin-bottom:16px}@media(min-width:1000px){.gLQzaj .sc-aeekvc-0{max-width:968px}}.gLQzaj .sc-aeekvc-0 p{margin-top:0}@media(min-width:768px){.gLQzaj .sc-aeekvc-0 p{margin-bottom:16px}}@media(min-width:2560px){.gLQzaj .sc-aeekvc-0 p{margin-bottom:12px}}.ldpSwp{--bleed:12px;display:flex;box-sizing:border-box;flex-direction:row;gap:32px;padding:16px var(--bleed);background-color:#fff}.article-liveblog .ldpSwp{background-color:#f7f7f7}@media(min-width:768px){.ldpSwp{--bleed:0;max-width:1000px;margin:0 auto}}@media(min-width:1000px){.ldpSwp{--bleed:16px;max-width:1000px;padding:var(--bleed)}}.ilJfaV{overflow:hidden;height:0;color:transparent}.fIgmuu{max-width:100%;margin:0 0 20px}.fIgmuu.sticky{position:sticky;top:16px}.grPbuS{min-height:600px}.grPbuS #mpu1{position:sticky;top:16px}.jfSvuX{min-height:250px}.kdHApG{max-width:100%}.dgoHoz{margin:0 0 6px;color:#646464;font-family:'Indy Sans','Indy Sans Fallback',sans-serif;font-size:15px}.eSkAOW{margin:0 0 12px}.ctSnkl{height:380px}.cCOQKx{width:100%;height:51px}.NgRo{margin-bottom:16px;border-bottom:1px solid #919191}.ksidoU{margin-bottom:16px}.ksidoU [role='listitem']{position:relative;margin-bottom:12px;border-bottom:1px solid #d3d3d3}.ksidoU [role='listitem'] .sc-u4n1j-0{display:flex;position:absolute;bottom:16px;left:10px;width:32px;height:32px;align-items:center;justify-content:center;border-radius:50%;background-color:#ec1a2e}.ksidoU [role='listitem'] .sc-u4n1j-0>svg{width:90%;fill:#fff;stroke:transparent}.ksidoU [role='listitem']:first-child{display:block;padding-bottom:0;margin-bottom:12px}.ksidoU [role='listitem']:first-child .sc-u4n1j-0{top:-15px;bottom:auto;left:12px}.ksidoU [role='listitem']:first-child>*:first-child{display:block;width:100%;height:205px}.ksidoU [role='listitem']:first-child>*:last-child{--content-bg:#222;--content-bg-opaque:rgba(34,34,34,0.7);position:absolute;bottom:0;width:100%;padding:28px 12px 12px;background:linear-gradient(to top,var(--content-bg) 70%,var(--content-bg-opaque) 100%) no-repeat;color:#fff;font-size:17px;font-weight:bold}.ksidoU [role='listitem']:last-child{margin-bottom:0;border-bottom:0 none}.bhdekM{min-height:1924px}@media(max-width:767px){.bhdekM{display:none}}.dvQXpA{width:308px}.dvQXpA.hidden{display:none}@media(max-width:999px){.dvQXpA{display:none}}.article-liveblog .bZTaXI{background-color:#f7f7f7}.wQyIS{justify-content:center}.jQYxbM{justify-content:center}</style> <script id="analytics-data" type="application/json">{"page_url":"https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html","actual_url":"https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html","page_domain":"independent.co.uk","page_path":"/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html","user_status":"anonymous","logged_in_status":"not logged in","main_js_version":"main.2fe6374f185843019008.js","page_name":"life-style/article1268246","page_type":"Article","site_sections":"life-style","article_premium_status":"free","article_id":"1268246","article_id_root":"1428956","article_title":"Baroque farce of a ruined heritage","article_author":"Andrew Gumbel","article_category":"News","article_publication_time":"11:02:00","pixel_id":"1428956","published_date":"Saturday, 19 April 1997","first_published_date":"Saturday, 19 April 1997","homepage_section":"","article_page_filename":"baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html","lead_media_item":"image","article_topic_tags":"Christian Monastery,Churches,Engineering,Rome","word_count":1513,"content_source":"Internal","components_list":"A2,A3,F1","desktop_components_list":"2,3,1,9","mobile_components_list":"A1","internal_links_count":0,"internal_topic_links_count":0,"internal_non_topic_links_count":0,"article_swap":"image"}</script><script type="application/ld+json">{"@type":"Organization","@context":"https://schema.org","name":"The Independent","url":"https://www.independent.co.uk","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","url":"https://www.independent.co.uk/img/logo.png","width":504,"height":60},"sameAs":["https://twitter.com/Independent","https://www.facebook.com/TheIndependentOnline","https://www.youtube.com/theindependent"],"@id":"independent.co.uk"}</script><script type="application/ld+json">{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","mainEntityOfPage":{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html"},"headline":"Baroque farce of a ruined heritage | The Independent","datePublished":"1997-04-19T23:02:00.000Z","dateModified":"1997-04-19T23:02:00.000Z","description":"A beautiful cathedral in Sicily is collapsing through bureaucratic inertia. Sadly, it's a typical Italian story","thumbnailUrl":"","articleSection":"Lifestyle","url":"https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html","publisher":{"@type":"Organization","@context":"https://schema.org","name":"The Independent","url":"https://www.independent.co.uk","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","url":"https://www.independent.co.uk/img/logo.png","width":504,"height":60},"sameAs":["https://twitter.com/Independent","https://www.facebook.com/TheIndependentOnline","https://www.youtube.com/theindependent"],"@id":"independent.co.uk"},"author":{"@type":"Person","name":"Andrew Gumbel","url":"https://www.independent.co.uk/author/andrew-gumbel"},"image":"","isAccessibleForFree":true,"isPartOf":{"@type":["CreativeWork","Product"],"name":"The Independent","productID":"independent.co.uk:showcase"}}</script><script type="application/ld+json">{"@context":"https://schema.org","@type":"BreadcrumbList","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"name":"Lifestyle","item":"https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style"}]}</script> <script type="speculationrules"> {"prefetch":[{"where":{"href_matches":"/*"},"eagerness":"moderate"}]} </script> </head> <body id="body"> <script type="application/json" id="piano-meta">{"tags":["christian-monastery","churches","engineering","rome","s_life-style","article","archive","receiveindylifestyle"],"contentCreated":"1997-04-19T23:02:00Z","contentAuthor":"Andrew Gumbel","contentSection":"Lifestyle"}</script><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ sc-11dbwmc-1 cHzBly"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="out-of-page" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/out-of-page" data-sizes="1x1" data-refresh-check="false" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div><div class="sc-11dbwmc-0 bquEpS"><div class="hydrate-root" data-component="SuccessBannerManager" data-theme-name="base-light"></div><script type="application/json">{}</script><header id="header" class="sc-1fvr4xs-0 jNczEZ page-header"><a href="#main-content" class="sc-1arhcyp-0 fQlAru">Jump to content</a><div class="sc-1pkogcm-4 ijSINX"><div class="sc-zkjqbw-0 cXaBJq sc-1ca6zfp-0 ichdJt"><div class="sc-zkjqbw-1 gQWUzM"><div class="sc-1ca6zfp-1 sc-1ca6zfp-2 jWUhhI diFkEu"><div class="hydrate-root sc-1pkogcm-3 eCfgRr" data-component="EditionSwitcher" data-theme-name="base-light"><div id="globalnavbar-edition-switcher" class="sc-1wl0eko-0 jRzafy sc-fxzxid-5 kfGPWG"><div id="__dropdown_globalnavbar-edition-switcher_trigger__" role="button" aria-controls="__dropdown_globalnavbar-edition-switcher_content__" aria-expanded="false" aria-disabled="false" tabindex="0" class="sc-1wl0eko-1 fRZImV"><div class="sc-fxzxid-6 sc-fxzxid-7 dICNzG bvRWnw dropdown-trigger"><span class="sc-fxzxid-8 cXLKCe">Asia Edition<span class="sc-fxzxid-10 cnvwpB">Change</span><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-fxzxid-0 hmFUdD"><use href="#d5d9764c65d2cfa2"></use></svg></span></div></div><div id="__dropdown_globalnavbar-edition-switcher_content__" aria-labelledby="__dropdown_globalnavbar-edition-switcher_trigger__" aria-hidden="true" class="sc-1wl0eko-2 fsGSjK"><div class="sc-1wl0eko-3 knSEIJ"><div class="sc-fxzxid-2 bfKgyx dropdown-content"><a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/" data-edition="UK" class="sc-fxzxid-3 sc-fxzxid-4 cFdhkO cjQBZl">UK Edition<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-fxzxid-0 hmFUdD"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a><a href="https://www.the-independent.com/" data-edition="US" class="sc-fxzxid-3 sc-fxzxid-4 cFdhkO cjQBZl">US Edition<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-fxzxid-0 hmFUdD"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a><a href="https://www.independentespanol.com/" data-edition="false" class="sc-fxzxid-3 sc-fxzxid-4 cFdhkO cjQBZl">Edici贸n en Espa帽ol<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-fxzxid-0 hmFUdD"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></div></div></div></div></div><script type="application/json">{"changeText":"Change","domain":"independent.co.uk","isHeader":true,"locale":"AS","id":"globalnavbar-edition-switcher","serverEnv":"prod","newEditions":true}</script></div><div class="sc-1ca6zfp-1 sc-1ca6zfp-3 jWUhhI crhajT"><a href="/newsletters" class="sc-1pkogcm-0 jOljop">Sign up to our newsletters</a><a id="header-laptop-subscribe-button" href="/subscribe?itm_channel=native&itm_campaign=top_right_subscribe" class="sc-1pkogcm-1 cjYzEC">Subscribe now</a><div class="hydrate-root" data-component="RegisterLoginButton" data-theme-name="base-light"><a href="/login?regSourceMethod=login%20overlay" class="sc-prfj1i-8 sc-prfj1i-9 lmSlWJ hlVawa register-login-link"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-prfj1i-1 bFPIDY"><use href="#7a455166757b1edf"></use></svg><span>Log in / Register<span class="sc-prfj1i-6 jfaCBj"></span></span></a></div><script type="application/json">{"isHeader":true,"isActiveRecurringDonator":false,"supportButtonCopy":"Support Now"}</script></div></div></div></div><div id="standard-header-main" class="sc-1fvr4xs-1 hJCoPj"><a href="/" aria-label="Back to homepage" class="sc-g8pf3u-3 sc-g8pf3u-6 hPPUmj jdGUnr"><span class="sc-hocvh6-0 ghzHPh"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-g8pf3u-0 sc-g8pf3u-1 focmqW jHWEMI logo-stamp"><use href="#f9cc7f5596803d67"></use></svg> <svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" id="5609b156669c1f36" class="logo-text" viewBox="0 0 643 62"><path fill="#1C1B19" d="m.3 1.6 2.5.5c5.9 1.1 6.6 4.6 6.6 7.8v40.7c0 3.3-.8 6.6-6.6 7.8l-2.5.5v1.3h29v-1.3l-2.5-.5c-5.8-1.2-6.6-4.5-6.6-7.8V9.9c0-3.2.8-6.7 6.6-7.8l2.5-.5V.3H.3zM589.6.3v20.1h1.2l3-7.4c3-7.4 6-11.4 13.8-11.4h3.2v49c0 3.2-.7 7-6.6 7.9l-2.5.4v1.3h29v-1.3l-2.6-.4c-5.8-1-6.6-4.7-6.6-8V1.7h3.2c7.8 0 10.9 4 13.8 11.4l3 7.4h1.2V.3zm-25.9 1.3 2.4.3c4.4.6 8.5 2.8 8.6 14.2l.2 27.3-23.2-27.5c-7-8.2-9.8-11.7-11.8-15.4l-.2-.2h-21.2v1.3h.4c4.4.8 7.1 2.6 11.7 7.6l.9 1v31.4c0 13.4-4.2 15.6-9.3 16.9l-1.8.4v1.3h23.8v-1.3l-1.7-.4c-4.5-1.2-9.2-2.5-9.3-17l-.3-29.8 42 49.6.2.1h1.3V16.1c0-11.4 4.3-13.6 8.6-14.2l2.3-.3V.3h-23.6zM320.2 49.4c-4 6.9-8.9 9.4-18 9.4h-2.6c-5 0-7.3-2.5-7.3-8V30l3.7.1c9.1.2 11.6.6 14.5 9.4l1 3.2h1.3V15.8h-1.3l-1 3.3c-2.8 8.8-5.5 9.2-14.5 9.4h-3.7V1.7h6.4c10.8 0 15.6 2.3 19.2 8.9L322 18h1.2V.3h-50.7v1.3l2.5.5c5.5 1 6.6 3.7 6.6 7.6v40.9c0 3.2-.8 7-6.6 7.9l-2.5.4v1.3h53V42.5h-1.2l-4.1 7m189.6 0c-4 6.8-8.9 9.3-18 9.3h-2.5c-5.1 0-7.4-2.5-7.4-8V30l3.7.1c9.2.2 11.7.6 14.5 9.4l1 3.2h1.3V15.8H501l-1 3.3c-2.8 8.8-5.5 9.2-14.5 9.4H482V1.7h6.5c10.7 0 15.5 2.3 19.2 8.9l4 7.4h1.2V.3h-50.7v1.3l2.5.5c5.5 1 6.6 3.7 6.6 7.6v40.9c0 3.2-.7 7-6.6 7.9l-2.5.4v1.3h53V42.5H514l-4 7m-391.4 1V1.6h7.6c15.2 0 24.2 10.7 24.2 28.6 0 18.2-8.5 28.6-23.4 28.6h-2c-5.4 0-6.5-3.3-6.5-8.3M128.7.3H75.2v1.3l2.4.3c5.4.8 8.5 3 8.6 12.5l.2 29-23.2-27.5C56.4 8 53.4 4.2 51.4.5l-.2-.2H30v1.3h.4c4.3.8 7 2.6 11.7 7.6l.9 1v31.4c0 13.4-4.3 15.6-9.4 16.9l-1.7.4v1.3h23.8v-1.3l-1.7-.4c-4.5-1.2-9.2-2.5-9.3-17l-.3-29.8 42.2 49.7h1.3V13c0-7.5 3.3-11.3 10-11.3 6.5 0 9.9 3.8 9.9 11.3v37.6c0 3.5-.8 6.9-6.7 7.9l-2.4.4v1.3h30c10.3 0 19-3.2 25-9.3a29.3 29.3 0 0 0 8.5-21c0-8-3-15.4-8.5-20.7a35 35 0 0 0-25-9m288.6 50.3V1.6h7.6c15.2 0 24.2 10.7 24.2 28.6 0 18.2-8.5 28.6-23.4 28.6h-1.9c-5.4 0-6.5-3.3-6.5-8.3M427.5.3H374v1.3l2.4.3c5.4.8 8.5 3 8.6 12.5l.2 29L362 15.9c-7-8.2-9.8-11.7-11.8-15.4l-.2-.2h-21.2v1.3h.4c4.4.8 7.1 2.6 11.7 7.6l.9 1v31.4c0 13.4-4.3 15.6-9.4 16.9l-1.7.4v1.3h23.8v-1.3l-1.7-.4c-4.5-1.2-9.2-2.5-9.3-17l-.2-29.8 42 49.6.1.1h1.3V13c0-7.5 3.3-11.3 10-11.3 6.5 0 10 3.8 10 11.3v37.6c0 3.5-.9 6.9-6.8 7.9l-2.4.4v1.3h30c10.3 0 19-3.2 25-9.3a29.3 29.3 0 0 0 8.5-21c0-8-3-15.4-8.5-20.7a35 35 0 0 0-25-9M248 .3h-25.9v1.4l2.5.5c5.8 1.1 6.6 4.4 6.6 7.7v40.8c0 3.4-.8 6.6-6.6 7.8l-2.5.5v1.3h30V59l-2-.4c-6.8-1.4-8-2.8-8-8.7V1.7h2.5c9.2 0 14.7 6.2 14.7 16.6 0 10.5-5.5 16.7-14.7 16.7h-.7v1.5h4.1c13.5 0 23-7.5 23-18.2 0-10.6-9.5-18-23-18m-37 49.1c-4 6.8-8.9 9.4-18 9.4h-2.6c-5 0-7.3-2.5-7.3-8V30l3.7.1c9.1.2 11.6.6 14.5 9.4l1 3.2h1.2V15.8h-1.2l-1 3.3c-2.8 8.8-5.5 9.2-14.5 9.4h-3.7V1.7h6.4c10.7 0 15.6 2.3 19.2 8.9l4.1 7.4h1.2V.3h-50.7v1.3l2.5.5c5.5 1 6.6 3.7 6.6 7.6v40.9c0 3.2-.8 7-6.6 7.9l-2.5.4v1.3h53V42.5H215l-4.1 7"></path></svg><span class="sc-1vkqptb-0 eOZSho">Independent</span></span></a><div class="sc-2ar5g0-0 sc-2ar5g0-3 isXhlX hCjSXZ header-menu-temp-links"><a href="/news/world/americas/us-politics" class="sc-2ar5g0-5 bATaaO header-menu-temp-link"><span class="sc-2ar5g0-6 lihAma">US Politics</span><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 fdygxT sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-2ar5g0-4 dIrzaq"><use href="#6f4d1bc6d16cc062"></use></svg></a><a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/topic/trading-212" class="sc-2ar5g0-5 bATaaO header-menu-temp-link"><span class="sc-2ar5g0-6 lihAma">Investing </span><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 fdygxT sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-2ar5g0-4 dIrzaq"><use href="#6f4d1bc6d16cc062"></use></svg></a></div><a href="/subscribe?itm_channel=native&itm_campaign=top_right_subscribe" class="sc-zx26bg-0 jeKuoe">Subscribe</a><div class="hydrate-root sc-1kjo583-1 bBqXuH" data-component="MenuButton" data-theme-name="base-light"><button aria-label="Open full menu" id="MegaMenuButton" class="sc-1srcv3o-0 fBhkdt"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG"><use href="#0a0df087e37b7de2"></use></svg>Menu</button></div><script type="application/json">{"children":"Menu"}</script><div class="sc-jmla16-0 sc-jmla16-1 hXApGR JwiiU"><div class="search-input"><div id="searchBox0"></div><div id="quickSearchresults0" class="quick-searchresults"></div></div></div></div><div class="sc-1od5y3b-0 gCQcFz"><div class="sc-1od5y3b-3 PERra"><ul class="sc-1od5y3b-4 iuTYFi"><li class="sc-12qu2kl-4 dmIBzE primary-item"><a href="/" class="sc-12qu2kl-0 iA-dsQV primary-link">News</a><ul class="sc-1k0c6g8-4 bqemgk secondary-nav"><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">News<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/news/uk" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">UK<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/us" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">US<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/news/world" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">World<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/news/uk/politics" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">UK Politics<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/topic/brexit" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Brexit<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/news/health" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Health<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/news/business" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Business<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/money" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Money<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/news/science" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Science<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/space" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Space<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/tv/news" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">News Videos<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li></ul></li><li class="sc-12qu2kl-4 dmIBzE primary-item"><a href="/sport" class="sc-12qu2kl-0 iA-dsQV primary-link">Sport</a><ul class="sc-1k0c6g8-4 bqemgk secondary-nav"><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/sport" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Sport<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/sport/football" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Football<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/f1" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Formula 1<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/sport/rugby/rugby-union" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Rugby Union<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/sport/cricket" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Cricket<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/sport/tennis" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Tennis<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/sport/boxing" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Boxing<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/sport/ufc" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">UFC<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/sport/cycling" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Cycling<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/sport/golf" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Golf<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/tv/sport" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Sport Videos<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li></ul></li><li class="sc-12qu2kl-4 dmIBzE primary-item"><a href="/voices" class="sc-12qu2kl-0 iA-dsQV primary-link">Voices</a><ul class="sc-1k0c6g8-4 bqemgk secondary-nav"><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/voices" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Voices<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/voices/editorials" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Editorials<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/voices/letters" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Letters<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/author/john-rentoul" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">John Rentoul<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/author/mary-dejevsky" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Mary Dejevsky<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/author/andrew-grice" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Andrew Grice<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/author/sean-ogrady" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Sean O鈥橤rady<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li></ul></li><li class="sc-12qu2kl-4 dmIBzE primary-item"><a href="/arts-entertainment" class="sc-12qu2kl-0 iA-dsQV primary-link">Culture</a><ul class="sc-1k0c6g8-4 bqemgk secondary-nav"><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/arts-entertainment" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Culture<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/arts-entertainment/films" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Film<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/arts-entertainment/tv" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">TV & Radio<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/arts-entertainment/music" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Music<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/games" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Games<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/arts-entertainment/books" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Books<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/arts-entertainment/art" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Art<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/arts-entertainment/photography" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Photography<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/arts-entertainment/theatre-dance" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Theatre & Dance<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/tv/culture" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Culture Videos<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li></ul></li><li class="sc-12qu2kl-4 dmIBzE primary-item"><a href="/life-style" class="sc-12qu2kl-0 sc-12qu2kl-2 iA-dsQV fLYihy primary-link">Lifestyle</a><ul class="sc-1k0c6g8-4 bqemgk secondary-nav"><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/life-style" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Lifestyle<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/extras/indybest" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Shopping<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/beauty" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Beauty <svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/health-and-fitness" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Fitness & Wellbeing<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/tech" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Tech<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/life-style/food-and-drink" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Food & Drink<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/life-style/fashion" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Fashion<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/life-style/love-sex" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Love & Sex<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/life-style/women" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Women<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/life-style/health-and-families" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Health & Families<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/life-style/royal-family" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Royal Family<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/life-style/motoring" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Motoring<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/cars/electric-vehicles" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Electric Vehicles <svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/tv/lifestyle" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Lifestyle Videos<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li></ul></li><li class="sc-12qu2kl-4 dmIBzE primary-item"><a href="/extras/indybest" class="sc-12qu2kl-0 iA-dsQV primary-link">IndyBest</a><ul class="sc-1k0c6g8-4 bqemgk secondary-nav"><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/extras/indybest" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">IndyBest<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/extras/indybest/house-garden" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Home & Garden<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/extras/indybest/gadgets-tech" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Tech<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/extras/indybest/fashion-beauty" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Fashion & Beauty<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/deals" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Deals<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/extras/indybest/food-drink" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Food & Drink<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/extras/indybest/kids" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Kids<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/extras/indybest/books" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Books<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/extras/indybest/travel-outdoors" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Travel & Outdoors<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/extras/indybest/outdoor-activity" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Sports & Fitness<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li></ul></li><li class="sc-12qu2kl-4 dmIBzE primary-item"><a href="/deals" class="sc-12qu2kl-0 iA-dsQV primary-link">Deals</a><ul class="sc-1k0c6g8-4 bqemgk secondary-nav"><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/deals" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Deals<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/deals/travel" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Travel<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li></ul></li><li class="sc-12qu2kl-4 dmIBzE primary-item"><a href="/travel" class="sc-12qu2kl-0 iA-dsQV primary-link">Travel</a><ul class="sc-1k0c6g8-4 bqemgk secondary-nav"><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/travel" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Travel<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/travel/hotels" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Hotel Reviews<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/travel/news-and-advice" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">News & Advice<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/author/simon-calder" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Simon Calder<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/travel/cruise" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Cruises<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/travel/uk" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">UK<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/travel/europe" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Europe<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/travel/north-america/usa" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">USA<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/travel/asia" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Asia<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/travel/australasia" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Australia & New Zealand<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/travel/south-america" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">South America<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/travel/central-america-caribbean" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">C. America & Caribbean<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-1k0c6g8-1 aZEtr"><a href="/travel/middle-east" class="sc-1k0c6g8-2 PybPA">Middle East<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1k0c6g8-0 czybAP"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li></ul></li></ul><div class="sc-1q6g3n8-0 CnZvM primary-item"><div class="sc-1q6g3n8-1 kyswij primary-link">More</div><div class="sc-7mls89-0 iBDYsP secondary-nav"><div class="sc-7mls89-1 bgiyGu"><div class="sc-140oqnr-0 ciyOeI"><a href="/independentpremium" class="sc-140oqnr-8 jYdeWN"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-7 iAXteY"><use href="#6b081fe6f5d2d48e"></use></svg>Premium<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-2 inXiWD"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a><ul class="sc-140oqnr-6 imKhmc"><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/independentpremium/politics-explained" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Politics Explained<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/voices/editorials" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Editorials<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/independentpremium/voices" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Voices<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/independentpremium/long-reads" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Long Reads<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/independentpremium/news-analysis" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">News Analysis<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="https://edition.independent.co.uk/" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Today鈥檚 Edition<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li></ul></div><div class="sc-140oqnr-0 ciyOeI"><a href="/climate-change" class="sc-140oqnr-8 hkprJT"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-7 iAXteY"><use href="#6b081fe6f5d2d48e"></use></svg>Climate<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-2 inXiWD"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a><ul class="sc-140oqnr-6 imKhmc"><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/climate-change/news" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">News<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/climate-change/climate-100" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Climate 100<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/cars/electric-vehicles" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Electric Vehicles <svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/climate-change/opinion" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Voices<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/climate-change/sustainable-living" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Sustainable Living<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/climate-change/infact" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Explained<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/tv/climate" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Climate Videos<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/climate-change/sgi" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">SGI<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li></ul></div><div class="sc-140oqnr-0 ciyOeI"><a href="/tv/editors-picks" class="sc-140oqnr-8 gcHeD"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-7 iAXteY"><use href="#6b081fe6f5d2d48e"></use></svg>TV<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-2 inXiWD"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a><ul class="sc-140oqnr-6 imKhmc"><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/tv/behind-the-headlines" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Behind The Headlines<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/tv/on-the-ground" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">On The Ground<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/tv/decomplicated" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Decomplicated<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/tv/you-ask-the-questions" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">You Ask The Questions<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/tv/binge-or-bin" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Binge Watch<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/tv/music-box" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Music Box<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/tv/millennial-love" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Love Lives<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/tv/travel-smart" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Travel Smart<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/tech/independent-tv-download-smart-tv-how-b2287476.html" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Watch on your TV<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li></ul></div><div class="sc-140oqnr-0 sc-140oqnr-1 ciyOeI fBqrjI"><ul class="sc-140oqnr-6 imKhmc"><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="https://www.indy100.com/" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Indy100<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="https://edition.independent.co.uk/" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Today鈥檚 Edition<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="https://puzzles.independent.co.uk/?utm_campaign=navbar&utm_medium=nav&utm_source=navpuzzles" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Crosswords & Puzzles<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/comments" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Most Commented<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/newsletters?itm_channel=native&itm_campaign=burger_nav&itm_audience=prospecting&itm_content=newsletters" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Newsletters<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/ask-me-anything" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Ask Me Anything<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/virtual-events" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Virtual Events<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/topic/perfect-cellar" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Wine Offers <svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/sport/betting-sites-b2584371.html" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Betting Sites<svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li><li class="sc-140oqnr-5 bwTyRx"><a href="/games/online-casinos-b2599494.html" class="sc-140oqnr-4 kxfuOV">Casino Sites <svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 hsDYAr sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-140oqnr-3 fbRAkm"><use href="#363d20b20cc0845f"></use></svg></a></li></ul></div></div></div></div><a href="/tv/editors-picks" id="indytv-link" class="sc-1od5y3b-1 cuUGzT"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" id="6ed4f6c8fcfbc18c" fill="none" viewBox="0 0 128 19" class="sc-1od5y3b-2 dUfnkz"><path fill="#222" fill-rule="evenodd" d="m.03 4.55.4.09c.93.2 1.05.78 1.05 1.32v6.82c0 .57-.13 1.11-1.05 1.31l-.4.08v.22h4.6v-.22l-.39-.08c-.92-.2-1.05-.74-1.05-1.3V5.95c0-.54.13-1.12 1.05-1.32l.4-.09v-.21H.04zm97.63-.21v3.38h.2l.5-1.25c.48-1.23 1-1.9 2.28-1.9h.53v8.21c0 .54-.12 1.17-1.09 1.32l-.41.07v.22h4.79v-.22l-.42-.07c-.97-.15-1.09-.78-1.09-1.32V4.57h.54c1.28 0 1.8.67 2.28 1.9l.5 1.25h.2V4.34zm-4.22.22.39.05c.73.1 1.4.47 1.42 2.38l.04 4.58-3.84-4.6a18 18 0 0 1-1.96-2.6l-.02-.03h-3.51v.21l.06.02c.72.13 1.18.43 1.94 1.27l.14.16v5.27c0 2.26-.7 2.62-1.54 2.83l-.28.08v.21h3.93v-.21l-.28-.08c-.75-.2-1.53-.4-1.54-2.83l-.04-5 6.95 8.3.02.03h.22V7c0-1.91.72-2.28 1.42-2.38l.39-.05v-.22h-3.9zm-40.45 8.03c-.65 1.14-1.45 1.57-2.95 1.57h-.41c-.83 0-1.2-.42-1.2-1.35V9.33l.6.02c1.5.02 1.9.1 2.37 1.57l.17.53h.2v-4.5h-.2l-.17.55c-.45 1.47-.9 1.54-2.36 1.57l-.61.01V4.57h1.05c1.75 0 2.55.37 3.14 1.48l.67 1.25h.19V4.34h-8.3v.21l.41.09c.9.19 1.08.63 1.08 1.28v6.86c0 .54-.12 1.17-1.07 1.32l-.41.07v.22h8.66v-2.96h-.2zm31.37 0c-.65 1.14-1.45 1.57-2.95 1.57h-.4c-.84 0-1.21-.42-1.21-1.35V9.33l.6.02c1.5.02 1.91.1 2.37 1.57l.17.53h.2v-4.5h-.2l-.17.55c-.45 1.47-.9 1.54-2.36 1.57l-.61.01V4.57h1.05c1.75 0 2.55.37 3.14 1.48l.67 1.25h.19V4.34h-8.3v.21l.42.09c.9.19 1.08.63 1.08 1.28v6.86c0 .54-.13 1.17-1.08 1.32l-.41.07v.22h8.66v-2.96h-.19zm-64.74.18v-8.2h1.26c2.51 0 4.01 1.8 4.01 4.8 0 3.04-1.41 4.79-3.89 4.79h-.3c-.9 0-1.08-.56-1.08-1.39m1.68-8.43h-8.87v.22l.39.05c.9.13 1.41.52 1.42 2.1l.05 4.86-3.86-4.6a18 18 0 0 1-1.96-2.6l-.02-.03H4.92v.21l.07.02c.72.13 1.18.43 1.94 1.27l.15.16v5.27c0 2.26-.7 2.62-1.55 2.83l-.28.08v.21h3.94v-.21l-.28-.08c-.75-.2-1.53-.4-1.55-2.83l-.04-5 7 8.33h.21V6.48q0-1.9 1.65-1.91 1.66 0 1.66 1.91v6.3c0 .59-.14 1.16-1.11 1.32l-.4.07v.22h4.97a5.7 5.7 0 0 0 4.16-1.55c.91-.91 1.41-2.16 1.41-3.52s-.5-2.59-1.4-3.48a5.8 5.8 0 0 0-4.17-1.5m47.84 8.43v-8.2h1.26c2.51 0 4.01 1.8 4.01 4.8 0 3.04-1.41 4.79-3.89 4.79h-.3c-.9 0-1.08-.56-1.08-1.39m1.68-8.43h-8.87v.22l.39.05c.9.13 1.41.52 1.42 2.1l.04 4.86-3.85-4.6a18 18 0 0 1-1.96-2.6l-.02-.03h-3.53v.21l.07.02c.72.13 1.18.43 1.94 1.27l.14.16v5.27c0 2.26-.7 2.62-1.54 2.83l-.29.08v.21h3.95v-.21l-.28-.08c-.76-.2-1.54-.4-1.55-2.83l-.04-5 6.97 8.3.03.03h.2V6.48q.01-1.9 1.66-1.91 1.66 0 1.66 1.91v6.3c0 .59-.14 1.16-1.11 1.32l-.4.07v.22h4.97a5.7 5.7 0 0 0 4.16-1.55c.9-.91 1.4-2.16 1.4-3.52s-.5-2.59-1.4-3.48a5.8 5.8 0 0 0-4.16-1.5m-29.64 0h-4.3v.21l.42.09c.96.2 1.1.74 1.1 1.3v6.84c0 .57-.14 1.11-1.1 1.31l-.41.08v.22h4.97v-.21l-.33-.07c-1.13-.24-1.34-.48-1.34-1.47V4.57h.42c1.53 0 2.45 1.05 2.45 2.8 0 1.76-.92 2.8-2.45 2.8h-.1v.25h.67c2.24 0 3.81-1.25 3.81-3.05s-1.57-3.03-3.8-3.03m-6.35 8.25c-.65 1.14-1.45 1.57-2.95 1.57h-.4c-.84 0-1.21-.42-1.21-1.35V9.33l.6.02c1.5.02 1.91.1 2.37 1.57l.17.53h.2v-4.5h-.2l-.17.55c-.45 1.47-.9 1.54-2.36 1.57l-.61.01V4.57h1.05c1.76 0 2.55.37 3.14 1.48l.67 1.25h.2V4.34h-8.3v.21l.4.09c.9.19 1.09.63 1.09 1.28v6.86c0 .54-.13 1.17-1.08 1.32l-.41.07v.22h8.66v-2.96h-.19z" clip-rule="evenodd"></path><ellipse cx="118.45" cy="9.5" fill="#EC1A2E" rx="9.48" ry="9.5"></ellipse><path fill="#fff" d="m117.37 13.67-.3-1.68c-.24.07-.59.14-.78.14-.65 0-.78-.23-.78-.9v-2.7h1.69V6.87h-1.69V4.96h-1.7l-.52 1.92h-1.02v1.64h.98v3.5c0 1.38.93 2.02 2.24 2.02.87 0 1.5-.2 1.88-.37m2.29.18h2.9l2.07-6.97h-2.32l-1.12 4.88h-.02l-1.2-4.88h-2.4z"></path></svg></a></div></div><div id="success-hint-header" class="sc-b47m3v-0 kiloul sc-urva60-0 cGjRoo hide"><div class="sc-govabo-0 gHYEVW"><div class="sc-1h87vhk-0 fDztze"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 fnAcWz sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1voidh4-0 iXzeFI"><use href="#d19337775de06d7c"></use></svg><div class="sc-1d79dbf-0 gusQYW"><h3 class="sc-erjdy9-0 iwnwDu">Thank you for registering</h3><p class="sc-1ty8yds-2 fkPOZn"><span class="sc-1ty8yds-0 kSzXIA">Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged in</span><span class="sc-1ty8yds-1 eXLcRx">Please refresh your browser to be logged in</span></p></div></div></div></div></header><div id="voucher-ticker" class="sc-1fvr4xs-4 euJsHj"><div class="sc-1fvr4xs-3 eiXJwO"></div></div><div class="sc-1q2nh6w-0 jqSpPU sc-11dbwmc-2 sc-mqwbs7-0 SuLPo jQYxbM" id="frameInner"><article id="articleContent" data-is-sensitive="false" data-is-premium="false" data-is-commercial="false" data-is-best="false" class="sc-1i4xxi7-0 bZTaXI"><div class="sc-11f90c-0 kChsty"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="thirdparty_05" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/thirdparty" data-sizes="9x9" data-refresh-check="false" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div><div id="top-banner-wrapper" class="sc-ikpknz-0 fpbYLV"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="top_banner" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/top_banner" data-size-key="TOP_BANNER" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="13000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ sc-1nx9hsj-0 jjTNLD"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="skin" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/skin" data-size-key="SKIN" data-refresh-check="false" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div><div id="main-content" class="sc-1kfh6cz-0 ilJfaV"></div><header id="articleHeader" class="sc-qvufca-6 gLQzaj"><div class="sc-qvufca-1 gRuXKg"><nav class="sc-22qwnu-0 hUayVl"><a href="/life-style">Lifestyle</a></nav><div class="sc-qvufca-0 hAHxPT"><h1 class="sc-1xt8011-0 sc-qvufca-2 bPeEQC clZtvZ">Baroque farce of a ruined heritage</h1><h2 class="sc-aeekvc-0 iHWilb">A beautiful cathedral in Sicily is collapsing through bureaucratic inertia. Sadly, it's a typical Italian story</h2><div class="sc-1qz44j0-7 gpMjkH sc-1qz44j0-8 dBGTzR"><div class="sc-1qz44j0-0 clVPNf"><a href="/author/andrew-gumbel" class="sc-1qz44j0-3 eNJptR">Andrew Gumbel</a><div id="article-published-date" class="sc-1qz44j0-1 hIiCJP">Saturday 19 April 1997 23:02 BST</div><a class="sc-1oxuqvm-0 fxtXwi js-comment sc-1qz44j0-5 cePgis js-comment-header"><span class="sc-1oxuqvm-1 kSAOsY js-comment-count"></span><span class="js-comment-plural">Comments</span></a></div><div class="sc-1lupl4a-0 hCHeth sc-1qz44j0-6 kuCYzg social-share"><div class="hydrate-root sc-1lupl4a-1 hvJvAA" data-component="SocialShareButtons" data-theme-name="base-light"><div class="sc-9k5nsv-0 ixvYXS"><div class="sc-sh6dmz-0 ldnLrS"><button id="bookmark-button" aria-label="Bookmark this page" class="sc-17yxc4y-2 cArLiK"><div class="sc-17yxc4y-1 gCzJQx"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 fnAcWz sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-17yxc4y-3 eneLeT"><use href="#49dd8d1b9676e37e"></use></svg></div><div class="sc-17yxc4y-0 iFbwfk"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 fnAcWz sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-17yxc4y-3 eneLeT"><use href="#376fb154e7aaf042"></use></svg></div></button></div><div class="sc-fj6e1f-0 wViVX"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/sharer/sharer.php?u=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html&quote=Baroque farce of a ruined heritage" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer" aria-label="Share on Facebook" type="facebook" class="sc-1rz9umn-0 jZkFWa"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 fnAcWz sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1rz9umn-1 hIQlBK"><use href="#4d1b72e3f6ac55c7"></use></svg></a><a href="https://twitter.com/intent/tweet?text=Baroque farce of a ruined heritage https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer" aria-label="Share on X" type="x" class="sc-1rz9umn-0 iyaxjG"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 fnAcWz sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1rz9umn-1 hIQlBK"><use href="#83f0addbd2f6f2be"></use></svg></a><a href="https://api.whatsapp.com/send?text=Baroque farce of a ruined heritage - https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer" aria-label="Share on Whatsapp" class="sc-1rz9umn-0 bxTlJH mobile-only" type="whatsapp"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 fnAcWz sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1rz9umn-1 hIQlBK"><use href="#dade8ead527a9e32"></use></svg></a><a href="mailto:?subject=Baroque farce of a ruined heritage&body=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer" aria-label="Share via email" type="email" class="sc-1rz9umn-0 cSnwsm"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 fnAcWz sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1rz9umn-1 hIQlBK"><use href="#0efb5aeedd4906d0"></use></svg></a></div></div></div><script type="application/json">{"articleId":"1268246","hasBookmark":true,"hasFacebook":true,"isLoggedIn":false,"title":"Baroque farce of a ruined heritage","url":"https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html"}</script></div></div></div></div></header><div class="sc-1fcmxs3-1 sc-1i4xxi7-1 ldpSwp wQyIS"><div class="sc-fwko30-1 czoMqL main-wrapper"><div class="sc-jbiisr-0 lkPksW sc-jbiisr-1 hiukpJ" id="main"><div class="hydrate-root" data-component="Newsletter" data-loading="lazy" data-theme-name="base-light"><div class="sc-1230l3a-0 cXWKwW newsletter-component sc-1ge0fwe-0 kcXonm" data-newsletter-key="receiveindylifestyle"><div class="sc-1ykbqwm-0 eshVLV sc-1ykbqwm-1 btPefi"><img src="https://static.independent.co.uk/static-assets/images/newsletters/lessonsInLifestyle1_1.png" loading="lazy" alt="Lessons in Lifestyle" class="sc-1mc30lb-0 bNNNXy"></div><div class="sc-tuvb20-0 dbefri"><div class="sc-1gqjrv9-3 jQGkpO sc-1gqjrv9-8 KIBZt"><div class="news-letter-title"><h3 data-nosnippet="" class="sc-1gqjrv9-4 gQaMJW">Stay ahead of the curve with our weekly guide to the latest trends, fashion, relationships and more</h3><h3 class="sc-1gqjrv9-5 sc-1gqjrv9-6 focVkI kzxhaH">Stay ahead of the curve with our weekly guide to the latest trends, fashion, relationships and more </h3><h3 data-nosnippet="" class="sc-1gqjrv9-5 focVkI">Stay ahead of the curve with our weekly guide to the latest trends, fashion, relationships and more </h3></div><div class="sc-1gqjrv9-7 evDZRN"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1gqjrv9-0 sc-1gqjrv9-1 idMylZ exnbsn"><use href="#f9cc7f5596803d67"></use></svg></div></div><div class="sc-mwbru6-0 cRKQtK form sc-mwbru6-4 fuvnkY"><div role="form" aria-label="Newsletter signup form" id="reg-lite-form" class="reg-form"><div><div class="sc-mwbru6-2 kdQijL"><div class="sc-lqqm6o-0 dHKhij"><input type="text" id="reg-lite--form-email" name="_" class="not-logged-input is-pristine is-untouched" required="" aria-controls="reg-lite--form-email-helper-text" aria-describedby="reg-lite--form-email-helper-text" placeholder="Email"><label for="reg-lite--form-email"></label><div class="error-text" visible-when-invalid="customError" validation-for="reg-lite--form-email"></div></div><div class="sc-104flan-0 buFgOY sc-104flan-3 dTeRNy signup-btn lite-registration-submit form-submit"><button class="sc-1aus1tj-0 dyGycr sc-104flan-2 eEZTEZ form-submit" disabled="" name="submitBtn" type="button"><span class="btn-text">SIGN UP</span><span class="sc-104flan-1 gHXQPb btn-loader"></span></button></div></div><div class="sc-76suco-1 jstemT newsletter__checkbox sc-mwbru6-3 idIGdR" data-nosnippet=""><input type="checkbox" id="newsletter-checkbox" name="newsletters" value="receiveIndyOffers"><label for="newsletter-checkbox" class="sc-76suco-0 knIyCe checkmark">I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our聽<a target="_blank" rel="noreferrer" href="/service/privacy-policy-a6184181.html">privacy policy</a></label></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><script type="application/json">{"className":"sc-1ge0fwe-0 kcXonm","isClimate":false,"newsletterData":{"regSourceNewsletter":"IND_IndyLife_CDP","subscriptionGroup":"lifestyle","subscriptionGroupId":"2cc88dbe-d082-4b8a-a251-4f301ff165a2","pathPrefix":["/life-style","/life-style/gadgets-and-tech"],"title":"Stay ahead of the curve with our weekly guide to the latest trends, fashion, relationships and more","mobileTitle":"Stay ahead of the curve with our weekly guide to the latest trends, fashion, relationships and more ","imageSrc":"https://static.independent.co.uk/static-assets/images/newsletters/lessonsInLifestyle1_1.png","description":"Be inspired with the latest lifestyle trends every week","label":"I <strong>would</strong> like to receive the best features and trends across the world of lifestyle every week by email","type":"lifestyle","regTitle":"Lessons in Lifestyle","newsletterKey":"receiveindylifestyle","regSourceSection":"Lifestyle","regSourceMethod":"Article%2BSignpost"},"captchaKey":"6LdQFKQUAAAAAALh9h5ypRL_GV19zbD4ZtAmj-pm","loggedIn":false}</script><p>Behind bars: scaffolding props up much of the town centre</p><p>Noto is a jewel of Sicilian Baroque, a magical town of honey- golden stone whose fine churches, ornate palaces, airy squares and elegant public balustrades are one of the great finds for the inquisitive traveller.</p><p>Tucked away in a valley 20 miles inland from Siracusa, it is well off the mass tourism beat and offers up its charms with a refreshingly innocent enthusiasm. It is also failing to pieces. A structural survey in 1986 concluded that much of the town centre was on the brink of collapse. Monasteries, churches and museums were closed and hidden behind walls of scaffolding. Money was poured in to shore up the town's rickety foundations, but nothing much seemed to get done. A medium-sized earthquake followed in 1990, and again funds were set aside to repair the damage and save the town from further collapse. There was much sound and fury in the local press and in regional government, but nothing happened. One night last year, with the long fruitless wait for restoration work becoming desperate, the cupola of the cathedral of San Nicolo caved in.</p><div id="article-im-prompt"></div><div class="sc-w27hnf-3 jHlYLm desktop-only teads"><div class="sc-1y9ieyw-0 cnknzo third-party-ad"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ third-party-ad"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="thirdparty01" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_partner_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/thirdparty01" data-size-key="THIRD_PARTY_ARTICLE_BODY_DESKTOP" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="150000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div></div><div class="sc-1048kfq-0 dTdlgq pb-20" data-mpu1="true"><div class="sc-1y9ieyw-0 cnknzo mobile-only"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ mobile-only"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="mpu1" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/mpu1" data-size-key="DOUBLE_OR_SINGLE_MPU" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="13000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div></div><p>This time the outcry extended well beyond Sicily to the national government and to bodies such as Unesco and the EU. For the third time in a decade, emergency funding was set aside and promises made to patch up Noto's artistic heritage.</p><p>WORK HAS only just begun to clear the rubble piled up in the cathedral nave - and even this much is being considered a major achievement. The dome, looking like the shard of a half-devoured Easter egg, is still exposed to the heavens and the cathedral floor is sodden from the winter rains. The building, far from being safeguarded, has been fought over by bureaucrats whose snail-like efforts to restart the restoration effort have so far done much harm and very little good. The architects, engineers, church officials and art historians clamouring to get on with the job have had to negotiate a minefield of public offices, narrow-minded power games and absurd procedural regulations to get as far as they have.</p><div class="sc-w27hnf-3 jHlYLm mobile-only teads"><div class="sc-1y9ieyw-0 cnknzo third-party-ad"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ third-party-ad"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="thirdparty01" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_partner_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/thirdparty01" data-size-key="THIRD_PARTY_ARTICLE_BODY_MOBILE" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="150000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div></div><p>The earliest Noto can hope to see rebuilding begin on the cathedral is the start of the next millennium, by which time further calamities may have made the town even more fragile. "Thirty-eight billion lire (pounds 14m) has been spent on the centre of Noto over the years. Where has all the money gone? Why are none of our buildings open?" rages the town's chief tourism official, Corrado Spicuglia.</p><p>To answer his questions one must knock on the doors of the dizzyingly numerous public authorities involved in the saga: the Sicilian regional government, the national prefect responsible for Noto, the civil engineering office of the province of Siracusa, the office responsible for the province's cultural heritage, the town council and the public prosecutors' office which officially sequestered the cathedral after the collapse to try to determine the cause of the disaster and establish any criminal responsibility for it.</p><div class="sc-toncsa-0 qHctg"><div id="taboola-carousel-thumbnails" class="taboola"></div></div><p>Each party gives self-serving excuses for the delays, descending into legalistic explanations for its inactivity and seeking for all it is worth to nudge the accusing finger in someone else's direction. This attitude, of course, is less than helpful. "We can't wait until the cathedral falls down altogether to say that we wanted to do something, but the law did not allow it," Mr Spicuglia said.</p><p>The story of Noto offers a dismal insight into why Italy so often fails to get to grips with its problems, particularly in the downtrodden, backward south, and helps explain why its artistic heritage has become so accident- prone. Similar bureaucratic nightmares are dogging La Fenice, the Venetian opera house which burned down last year but has yet to be worked on. They will no doubt trip up restoration efforts in Turin, where the Chapel of the Shroud and the Palazzo Reale were severely damaged by fire last weekend.</p><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ sc-w27hnf-0 dVyExd"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="content" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/content" data-size-key="SINGLE_MPU" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="13000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div><p>THE CORE problem is that decisions in Italy are rarely taken by those best placed to make them, but are subject to a system of hierarchies in which power, not efficient problem-solving, is the main consideration.</p><p>All the money earmarked for Noto - 600 billion lire after the 1990 earthquake and another 20 billion following the collapse of the cupola - has gone from Rome to the regional government in Palermo, which then has responsibility for passing it further down the chain. The parties most interested in getting things moving - the town council and the church - have neither the means nor the power to make their voices heard and are forced to beg for indulgence from those higher up the pecking order.</p><div class="sc-w27hnf-3 jHlYLm teads"><div class="sc-1y9ieyw-0 cnknzo third-party-ad"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ third-party-ad"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="thirdparty02" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_partner_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/thirdparty02" data-size-key="THIRD_PARTY_ARTICLE_BODY" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="150000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div></div><p>The disbursement procedure is dominated by political rather than practical considerations and open to all kinds of abuse. The region took three years to approve an initial list of projects after the earthquake, and another two to release the first funds, by which time Noto cathedral was three weeks away from collapse. Meanwhile attention was distracted by the anti-corruption drive launched by the judiciary in 1992-93 that brought Italy's entire political structure to its knees. Public works projects ground to a halt and a power vacuum was created as politicians at all levels, including Noto's town council, were swept out of office.</p><p>"Paradoxically things are much harder now because public offices are so terrified of being punished for any mistakes they make that they prefer not to sign anything at all," said the priest in charge of Noto cathedral, Don Salvatore Bellomia.</p><div class="sc-1048kfq-0 dTdlgq"><div class="sc-1y9ieyw-0 cnknzo mobile-only"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ mobile-only"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="bottom_mpu_1" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/bottom_mpu" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="13000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div></div><p>In Siracusa, the provincial offices for civil engineering and cultural heritage are barely 100 yards apart but both insist on using the inefficient postal system to talk to each other. Crucial letters have been known to take more than a month to make their way down the street.</p><p>To start clearing away the rubble and analysing it for clues to the cause of the collapse, project leaders had to be selected by the government prefect and their proposals approved by both the cultural heritage office and the civil engineering office. That process took up most of last year. "It doesn't help that the provincial offices are at war with each other other their respective responsibilities, which are defined rather vaguely by the law," lamented Roberto De Benedictis, the engineer in charge of the project. By Christmas, with just one bell tower and the remains of the cupola secured with scaffolding, there was concern that rainfall could cause further structural damage. The prefect was given exceptional powers by Rome to take appropriate measures. Not being an expert, he delegated the task to the cultural heritage office.</p><p>The obvious solution was to prop up the crypt with scaffolding, but this would have meant deferring to the civil engineers. Refusing to be upstaged, the cultural heritage office took the extraordinary step of filling the crypt with cement, smothering valuable tombs and leaving church authorities aghast.</p><p>"Once the cultural heritage people got their hands on the cathedral they didn't want to let go. It's purely a question of power," Don Bellomia said.</p><div class="sc-1048kfq-0 dTdlgq"><div class="sc-1y9ieyw-0 cnknzo mobile-only"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ mobile-only"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="bottom_mpu_2" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/bottom_mpu" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="13000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div></div><p>To give the bureaucrats their due, Noto has been fraught with problems throughout its history. The ancient settlement, Noto Antica, was flattened by an earthquake in 1693 and its modern incarnation built in a hurry over the next half-century. Noto's Baroque masters - Rosario Gagliardi, Paolo Labisi and Vincenzo Sinatra - may have displayed extraordinary flair but their builders cut all kinds of corners on masonry and cementing the monuments together.</p><p>Little restoration work took place for two centuries. When new roads were cut in the late 19th century they exposed many of the monuments' foundations to the air and weakened the structure of the whole town.</p><p>IN THE 1960s, it was decided to get rid of Noto's sloping roofs for fear that an earthquake would destroy them. But the flat roofs which replaced them were far less efficient at draining rain water and the town's buildings became damper and damper.</p><p>The restorers thus have a lot of catching up to do, as well as the worst possible conditions in which to get the job done. No restoration project can be so much as proposed until the rubble is cleared away (no earlier than September). The project leaders, who will include Mr De Benedictis, will then have eight months to come up with a detailed plan. That, in turn, will be subject to bureaucratic checks that will take another six months to a year to complete.</p><div class="sc-1048kfq-0 dTdlgq"><div class="sc-1y9ieyw-0 cnknzo mobile-only"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ mobile-only"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="bottom_mpu_3" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/bottom_mpu" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="13000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div></div><p>Only then will Noto be able to look forward with any certainty to the day its cathedral has a cupola again. "All this would be much easier if we could take the decision ourselves," Mr Spicuglia said. "All these delays have a very negative effect. If your town is falling to pieces, you eventually begin to fall to pieces, too."</p></div><div id="piano-register-wall" data-reg-source-section="Lifestyle" class="sc-h57wdl-0 hCEqSm"></div><nav class="topics"><div class="sc-n08b2m-0 kciiLJ"><h3 class="sc-n08b2m-1 fSsEip">More about</h3><a href="/topic/christian-monastery" class="sc-n08b2m-2 kdqbii">Christian Monastery</a><a href="/topic/churches" class="sc-n08b2m-2 kdqbii">Churches</a><a href="/topic/engineering" class="sc-n08b2m-2 kdqbii">Engineering</a><a href="/topic/rome" class="sc-n08b2m-2 kdqbii">Rome</a></div></nav><div class="show-comments"><div class="sc-qsla4c-0 cPUOXM"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-qsla4c-5 gQogX"><use href="#f9cc7f5596803d67"></use></svg><h2 class="sc-qsla4c-4 goyZT">Join our commenting forum</h2><p class="sc-qsla4c-3 kQZunw">Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies</p><a role="button" class="sc-1oxuqvm-0 fxtXwi js-comment sc-qsla4c-2 fHoGsk js-comment-footer"><span class="sc-1oxuqvm-1 kSAOsY js-comment-count"></span><span class="js-comment-plural">Comments</span><span class="sc-1s13b34-0 sc-qsla4c-1 gihRoV ePOWEe"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" id="bb63372698e13136" fill="none" viewBox="0 0 19 20"><path fill="#7A7A7A" d="m15.83 10-1.11-1.12-4.43 4.42V3.67H8.71v9.63L4.29 8.88 3.17 10l6.33 6.33z"></path></svg></span></a></div></div><div class="sc-6s2j49-0 bGPFDl"><div id="taboola-below-article-1" class="taboola-below-article taboola"></div></div><div id="partners" class="sc-ztlleo-0 jJtNAJ"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="partner_ad_1" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/partner_ad" data-size-key="PARTNERADS" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="13000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="partner_ad_2" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/partner_ad" data-size-key="PARTNERADS" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="13000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div><a name="comments-area" class="sc-18u3r6t-0 gSAoMb"></a><div id="comments" class="sc-hmnszx-0 fDXhLE"><div class="sc-18u3r6t-1 enNoQV viafoura"><div class="sc-18u3r6t-2 cLHRRT"><vf-tray-trigger floating="true"></vf-tray-trigger></div><vf-conversations vf-container-id="1428956" limit="10"></vf-conversations></div></div><div id="taboola-below-article-2" class="taboola-below-article taboola"></div></div><aside class="sc-cxkzvg-0 dvQXpA sidebar"><div class="sc-j93h5r-0 fIgmuu"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ sc-uo1whf-0 grPbuS"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="mpu1" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/mpu1" data-size-key="DOUBLE_MPU" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="13000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div><div class="hydrate-root" data-component="MostPopularFeedList" data-theme-name="base-light"><div class="sc-1py8y5m-0 kdHApG most-popular"><h3 class="sc-1py8y5m-1 dgoHoz">Most Popular</h3><div class="sc-1py8y5m-8 ctSnkl"></div></div></div><script type="application/json">{"title":"Most Popular","src":"/api/most-popular-article?section=article-typepremium,article-typenon-premium&limit=5","items":"articles"}</script><div class="hydrate-root" data-component="PopularVideosFeedList" data-theme-name="base-light"><div class="sc-1py8y5m-0 kdHApG sc-enynzb-0 ksidoU popular-videos"><h3 class="sc-1py8y5m-1 dgoHoz">Popular videos</h3><div class="sc-1py8y5m-8 ctSnkl"></div></div></div><script type="application/json">{"title":"Popular videos","className":"sc-enynzb-0 ksidoU popular-videos","src":"/api/most-popular-article?section=independent-tv&limit=3","items":"articles"}</script><div class="hydrate-root sc-q2bcly-0 NgRo" data-component="Indy100FeedList" data-theme-name="base-light"><div class="sc-1py8y5m-0 kdHApG indy100-trending"><h3 class="sc-1py8y5m-2 eSkAOW"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-g8zlrz-0 cCOQKx"><use href="#8b9185e0e27e46a7"></use></svg></h3><div class="sc-1py8y5m-8 ctSnkl"></div></div></div><script type="application/json">{"title":"Indy100 Trending"}</script><div id="taboola-right-rail" class="sc-sk0nn7-0 bhdekM taboola"></div><div class="sc-j93h5r-0 fIgmuu"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ sc-1w99act-0 jfSvuX"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="thirdparty_03" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/thirdparty" data-sizes="300x250" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="13000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div><div class="hydrate-root" data-component="SponsoredFeaturesFeedList" data-theme-name="base-light"><div class="sc-1py8y5m-0 kdHApG sponsored-features"><h3 class="sc-1py8y5m-1 dgoHoz">Sponsored Features</h3><div class="sc-1py8y5m-8 ctSnkl"></div></div></div><script type="application/json">{"title":"Sponsored Features","src":"/api/most-popular-article?section=news&limit=5","items":"articles"}</script><div class="sc-j93h5r-0 fIgmuu sticky"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="mpu_bottom_sb_1" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/mpu_bottom_sb" data-sizes="120x600|300x250|160x600|300x600" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="13000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div></aside></div></article><div id="stickyFooterRoot" class="sc-7186ky-0 gxeWA"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ sc-7186ky-2 jHFBYy"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="out-of-page" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/out-of-page" data-sizes="1x1" data-refresh-check="false" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div><div class="sc-7186ky-1 hzqhgn"><div class="sc-1pfx6hk-0 fwOlvZ sticky"><div data-mpu="true" data-is-video="false" data-tile-name="bottom_banner_0" data-ad-unit-path="/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/image/bottom_banner" data-size-key="BOTTOM_BANNER" data-refresh-check="false" data-refresh-ms="13000" class="sc-1pfx6hk-2 lgqWRm"></div></div></div></div></div><footer class="sc-139f79w-0 jRtgJY"><nav class="sc-139f79w-1 bdmwwC"><ul class="sc-139f79w-2 bBDWYx"><li class="sc-139f79w-3 gqbjzo"><a href="/" aria-label="Back to homepage"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 cspHGj sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-139f79w-5 cFvWAT"><use href="#f9cc7f5596803d67"></use></svg></a><a href="/" class="sc-139f79w-4 jHxRtj">Get in touch</a><ul class="sc-2grh3o-0 ebslEa"><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/service/contact-us-759589.html" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Contact us</a></li></ul><ul class="sc-16d5z5s-0 bhQnpv"><li class="sc-16d5z5s-1 jKEmdI"><a class="sc-16d5z5s-2 blzGVC fb-link" rel="noopener" aria-label="Visit The Independent on Facebook" href="https://www.facebook.com/TheIndependentOnline"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" id="b941eb1404da3df8" viewBox="0 0 32 32"><path d="M13.5 31.83q1.02.16 2.09.2h.84q1.06-.04 2.07-.2v-11.2h3.73l.7-4.62H18.5v-3c0-1.27.62-2.5 2.6-2.5h2.02V6.56s-1.83-.31-3.58-.31c-3.65 0-6.04 2.21-6.04 6.22V16H9.44v4.63h4.06z"></path></svg></a><a class="sc-16d5z5s-2 blzGVC x-link" rel="noopener" aria-label="Visit The Independent on Twitter" href="https://twitter.com/Independent"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" id="Layer_2-3f443091285db5b7" data-name="Layer 2" viewBox="0 0 23.95 23.97"><path d="M14.28 10.17 23.2 0h-2.11l-7.75 8.83L7.16 0H0l9.38 13.34L0 24h2.14l8.17-9.31L16.84 24H24Zm-2.89 3.29-1-1.33L2.9 1.57h3.24l6.09 8.53.95 1.32 7.91 11.08h-3.25Z"></path></svg></a></li></ul></li><li class="sc-139f79w-3 gqbjzo"><a href="/" class="sc-139f79w-4 jHxRtj">Our Products</a><ul class="sc-2grh3o-0 ebslEa"><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/subscribe?itm_channel=native&itm_campaign=footer&itm_audience=prospecting&itm_content=subscribe" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Subscribe</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/register?itm_channel=native&itm_campaign=footer&itm_content=register" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Register</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/newsletters?itm_channel=native&itm_campaign=footer&itm_audience=prospecting&itm_content=newsletters" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Newsletters</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a rel="noopener" href="https://edition.independent.co.uk/" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Today鈥檚 Edition</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/subscribe/app?itm_channel=native&itm_campaign=app_selling_page&itm_audience=prospecting&itm_content=footer" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Install our app</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/archive" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Archive</a></li></ul></li><li class="sc-139f79w-3 gqbjzo"><a href="/" class="sc-139f79w-4 jHxRtj">Other publications</a><ul class="sc-2grh3o-0 ebslEa"><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/news/world/journalism-license-srmg-middle-east-news-world-global-a9579111.html" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">International editions</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a rel="noopener" href="https://www.independentespanol.com/" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Independent en Espa帽ol</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a rel="noopener" href="https://www.independentarabia.com/" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Independent Arabia</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a rel="noopener" href="https://www.indyturk.com/" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Independent Turkish</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a rel="noopener" href="https://www.independentpersian.com/" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Independent Persian</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a rel="noopener" href="https://www.independenturdu.com/" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Independent Urdu</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a rel="noopener" href="https://www.standard.co.uk/" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">The Standard</a></li></ul></li><li class="sc-139f79w-3 gqbjzo"><a href="/" class="sc-139f79w-4 jHxRtj">Extras</a><ul class="sc-2grh3o-0 ebslEa"><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a rel="noopener" href="https://puzzles.independent.co.uk/" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Puzzles</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/topics-list" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">All topics</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/sport/free-bets-b2581138.html" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Betting Offers</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/vouchercodes" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Voucher codes</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/competitions" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Competitions and offers</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a rel="noopener" href="https://www.independentadvertising.com/" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Independent Advertising</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/ignite" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Independent Ignite</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a rel="noopener" href="https://www.independentadvertising.com/licensing-and-syndication/" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Syndication</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a rel="noopener" href="https://www.linkedin.com/company/the-independent/jobs/" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Working at The Independent</a></li></ul></li><li class="sc-139f79w-3 gqbjzo"><a href="/" class="sc-139f79w-4 jHxRtj">Legal</a><ul class="sc-2grh3o-0 ebslEa"><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/service/code-of-conduct-a6184241.html" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Code of conduct and complaints</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/service/external-contributors-policy-7905982.html" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Contributors</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/service/cookie-policy-a6184186.html" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Cookie policy</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/service/privacy-notice-a6184181.html" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Privacy policy</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a href="/service/user-policies-a6184151.html" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">User policies</a></li><li class="sc-2grh3o-1 dVptiL"><a rel="noopener" href="https://static.independent.co.uk/static-assets/IND-Modern-Slavery-Statement-22-23.pdf" class="sc-2grh3o-2 bqyBxb">Modern Slavery Statement</a></li></ul></li></ul></nav></footer><div id="footerPrompt" class="sc-7lnyz3-0 laMqUw"></div><div id="success-hint" class="sc-b47m3v-0 kiloul hide"><div class="sc-govabo-0 gHYEVW"><div class="sc-1h87vhk-0 fDztze"><svg class="sc-eaj12q-0 fnAcWz sc-culv3z-0 kOpooG sc-1voidh4-0 iXzeFI"><use href="#d19337775de06d7c"></use></svg><div class="sc-1d79dbf-0 gusQYW"><h3 class="sc-erjdy9-0 iwnwDu">Thank you for registering</h3><p class="sc-1ty8yds-2 fkPOZn"><span class="sc-1ty8yds-0 kSzXIA">Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged in</span><span class="sc-1ty8yds-1 eXLcRx">Please refresh your browser to be logged in</span></p></div></div></div></div></div><div class="hydrate-root" data-component="DrawerMenu" data-theme-name="base-light"></div><script type="application/json">{"andMoreText":"& more","changeText":"Change","closeText":"Close","tempLinks":[{"id":"7o04ryxu","title":"US Politics","path":"/news/world/americas/us-politics","children":null},{"id":"0mrdv62a","title":"Investing ","path":"https://www.independent.co.uk/topic/trading-212","children":null}],"serverEnv":"prod","replaceSubscribeWithSupport":true,"supportButtonCopy":"Support Now","addSupportContentToDrawer":false,"isUSSubscriberOrigin":false,"isActiveRecurringDonator":false,"originalUrl":"/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html","newEditions":true,"domain":"independent.co.uk","locale":"AS","menuData":[["News","/",[["UK","/news/uk"],["US","/us"],["World","/news/world"],["UK Politics","/news/uk/politics"],["Brexit","/topic/brexit"],["Health","/news/health"],["Business","/news/business"],["Money","/money"],["Science","/news/science"],["Space","/space"],["News Videos","/tv/news"]]],["Sport","/sport",[["Football","football"],["Formula 1","/f1"],["Rugby Union","rugby/rugby-union"],["Cricket","cricket"],["Tennis","tennis"],["Boxing","boxing"],["UFC","ufc"],["Cycling","cycling"],["Golf","golf"],["Sport Videos","/tv/sport"]]],["Voices","/voices",[["Editorials","editorials"],["Letters","letters"],["John Rentoul","/author/john-rentoul"],["Mary Dejevsky","/author/mary-dejevsky"],["Andrew Grice","/author/andrew-grice"],["Sean O鈥橤rady","/author/sean-ogrady"]]],["Culture","/arts-entertainment",[["Film","films"],["TV & Radio","tv"],["Music","music"],["Games","/games"],["Books","books"],["Art","art"],["Photography","photography"],["Theatre & Dance","theatre-dance"],["Culture Videos","/tv/culture"]]],["Lifestyle","/life-style",[["Shopping","/extras/indybest"],["Beauty","/beauty"],["Fitness & Wellbeing","/health-and-fitness"],["Tech","/tech"],["Food & Drink","food-and-drink"],["Fashion","fashion"],["Love & Sex","love-sex"],["Women","women"],["Health & Families","health-and-families"],["Royal Family","royal-family"],["Motoring","motoring"],["Electric Vehicles","/cars/electric-vehicles"],["Lifestyle Videos","/tv/lifestyle"]],true],["IndyBest","/extras/indybest",[["Home & Garden","house-garden"],["Tech","gadgets-tech"],["Fashion & Beauty","fashion-beauty"],["Deals","/deals"],["Food & Drink","food-drink"],["Kids","kids"],["Books","books"],["Travel & Outdoors","travel-outdoors"],["Sports & Fitness","outdoor-activity"]]],["Deals","/deals",[["Travel","travel"]]],["Travel","/travel",[["Hotel Reviews","hotels"],["News & Advice","news-and-advice"],["Simon Calder","/author/simon-calder"],["Cruises","cruise"],["UK","uk"],["Europe","europe"],["USA","north-america/usa"],["Asia","asia"],["Australia & New Zealand","australasia"],["South America","south-america"],["C. America & Caribbean","central-america-caribbean"],["Middle East","middle-east"]]],["Premium","/independentpremium",[["Politics Explained","politics-explained"],["Editorials","/voices/editorials"],["Voices","voices"],["Long Reads","long-reads"],["News Analysis","news-analysis"],["Today鈥檚 Edition","https://edition.independent.co.uk/"]]],["Climate","/climate-change",[["News","news"],["Climate 100","climate-100"],["Electric Vehicles","/cars/electric-vehicles"],["Voices","opinion"],["Sustainable Living","sustainable-living"],["Explained","infact"],["Climate Videos","/tv/climate"],["SGI","sgi"]]],["TV","/tv/editors-picks",[["Behind The Headlines","/tv/behind-the-headlines"],["On The Ground","/tv/on-the-ground"],["Decomplicated","/tv/decomplicated"],["You Ask The Questions","/tv/you-ask-the-questions"],["Binge Watch","/tv/binge-or-bin"],["Music Box","/tv/music-box"],["Love Lives","/tv/millennial-love"],["Travel Smart","/tv/travel-smart"],["Watch on your TV","/tech/independent-tv-download-smart-tv-how-b2287476.html"]]],["Other","/other",[["Indy100","https://www.indy100.com/"],["Today鈥檚 Edition","https://edition.independent.co.uk/"],["Crosswords & Puzzles","https://puzzles.independent.co.uk/?utm_campaign=navbar&utm_medium=nav&utm_source=navpuzzles"],["Most Commented","/comments"],["Newsletters","/newsletters?itm_channel=native&itm_campaign=burger_nav&itm_audience=prospecting&itm_content=newsletters"],["Ask Me Anything","/ask-me-anything"],["Virtual Events","/virtual-events"],["Wine Offers","/topic/perfect-cellar"],["Betting Sites","/sport/betting-sites-b2584371.html"],["Casino Sites","/games/online-casinos-b2599494.html"]]]]}</script><div class="hydrate-root" data-component="LoginDrawer" data-theme-name="base-light"><button id="loginButton" class="sc-1jxec6t-2 cOYsmh"></button></div><script type="application/json">{"originalUrl":"/life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html","enabledSubs":{"premium":false,"adFree":false,"donations":false}}</script><svg class="__INDY_UI_SYMBOLS__" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" hidden=""><symbol id="d5d9764c65d2cfa2" viewBox="0 0 24 24"><path fill="currentColor" d="m7.42 8.31 4.59 4.58 4.59-4.58 1.41 1.41-6 6-6-6z"></path></symbol><symbol id="363d20b20cc0845f" viewBox="0 0 24 24"><path fill="currentColor" d="m8.3 16.61 4.58-4.59L8.3 7.43l1.41-1.41 6 6-6 6z"></path></symbol><symbol id="7a455166757b1edf" viewBox="0 0 24 24"><path fill="currentColor" d="M12 0a12 12 0 1 0 0 24 12 12 0 0 0 0-24m0 3.6a3.6 3.6 0 1 1 0 7.2 3.6 3.6 0 0 1-3.6-3.6c0-2 1.6-3.6 3.6-3.6m0 17.04a8.6 8.6 0 0 1-7.2-3.86c.04-2.4 4.8-3.7 7.2-3.7 2.39 0 7.16 1.3 7.2 3.7a8.6 8.6 0 0 1-7.2 3.86"></path></symbol><symbol id="f9cc7f5596803d67" viewBox="0 0 991.4 991.4"><path fill="#fff" d="M782.4 689.2c-9.8-5.5-6.8-3.7-54-31.7 0 0-36 6.9-82.7 17a16 16 0 0 1 2 .8 15 15 0 0 1 2 1.5 15 15 0 0 1 2 1.8 15 15 0 0 1 2.5 4.4 15 15 0 0 1 .5 2.3l.2 1v1a7 7 0 0 1-.2 1.9 4 4 0 0 1-.3 1.2l-.4 1h-1.2a8 8 0 0 1-.3-1 10 10 0 0 0-.3-1.2l-.5-1.3a14 14 0 0 0-.7-1.5l-.8-1.6-1-1.6-1.1-1.6c-.3-.6-.9-1-1.4-1.4l-1.4-1.3c-.5-.5-.9-.8-1.4-1a15 15 0 0 0-1.4-1 11 11 0 0 0-1.2-.7 10 10 0 0 0-1-.5l-10 2.2a5 5 0 0 1 .9.2 18 18 0 0 1 2.1 1 12 12 0 0 1 2.1 1.4 15 15 0 0 1 1.9 1.8 17 17 0 0 1 1.5 2.2 15 15 0 0 1 1 2.2 18 18 0 0 1 .5 2.3v2a8 8 0 0 1 0 1.8 5 5 0 0 1-.4 1.3 11 11 0 0 1-.4 1h-1.1l-.4-1a8 8 0 0 0-.3-1.2l-.5-1.3-.7-1.5-.8-1.6a19 19 0 0 0-1-1.6l-1.1-1.6c-.3-.6-.9-1-1.3-1.4l-1.4-1.3c-.4-.5-1-.7-1.5-1a17 17 0 0 0-1.3-1l-1.3-.7a9 9 0 0 0-1-.5l-.7-.4-26.6-22.6 1-6.8-2.8-15.8 2.7-6.8v-22.6l-29 25.9-.8-.8 85.1-100.1-.7-1.8-24.9-4.4.1-1.2h44.6c4.6 5.8 14.5 7.4 21.7 5.4l.3-1-9-14.4 3.7-2.5c3.6-2.1 6.8-1.2 10.3 3.9 3.3 4.8 4.9 11 1 14.8l.7 1a22.8 22.8 0 0 0 14.8-8.4c5-6.6 4.2-16.7-2-24-5.3-6-14.8-15.5-14.8-15.5 1-11.4-5-21.3-16-25.8-24-9.6-42.3-16.5-42.3-16.5l-57.9-.1-.2-1.3 57.6-6.8 17.3-15.2 65.4-26.1a15.4 15.4 0 0 0 9-9.5c8.5-23.3 34.6-93.1 34.6-93.1L848.7 178l-.6-1-53 37.8-.7-.8 22.5-45-1-.6-34.7 49.8-1-.4 4-49.7-1.2-.3-12.6 50.6h-1.2l-20.4-50.7-1.2.4 15 60.4-1.8 28.4-1.1.1-3.3-25-35.7-60.7-1 .6 28.7 64.2 2.2 47.3h-1.2l-6.2-44.1-46.8-59.3-.9.7 40.4 62 2.6 65-1.1.1-8.2-61.5-52-54.4-.9.8 44.2 57.7 5.2 74.8h-1.2l-11.9-71-54-46.3-.8.9 46.7 50.5 8 78-1.2.3-15.8-73.5-54.7-37.3-.7 1 46.8 41.4 12.7 77.2-1.2.3-20.3-72.1-52-28.5-.7 1 44.6 32.6 14.6 74.8-1.1.3-23.3-68.6-48.9-18.6-.5 1.2 41 23.3 17 68.3-1.1.4-25.9-61.3-46.3-8.4-.3 1.2 38.3 13.7 19.7 59.6-1 .5-29.6-50.8-38.9-3.2-.2 1.2 30.5 10 23 48.2-1 .7-32-38.8-35.2 2.1-.1 1.2 28 5.2 25.5 37.5-.8.8-33.3-27.5-37.6 8.4.2 1.3h30.8l28.3 26.7-.6 1-34.3-16-39.3 6v1.3l35 1.4 29.7 18.8-.4 1.1-32.7-11.2-52.8 10 .1 1.2 49.5-1.1 30.2 13.9-.4 1-31.6-7.4-79.7 13.4v1.1l62.5 4.8.2 1.1-50.1 9v1.1l34.2 2v1.2L490.2 453h.2-.2l16.7 21.8-1 1-38-32.3-98.2-136.2-89.3-45.8-70.9-63.8L188 139l-1.2.3 7.8 66.3 34.4 55.2-1 .8-50-41.5-23.8-46-1.3.3 8.4 54 24.4 44.3-.8.7-39.8-32.4-20.6-30.9-1.2.5 9.6 41.8 25.4 37.4-.8.8-39.5-22.7-17.4-22-1.2.6 11.3 32.5 18.3 23-.6.8-18.2-3.5-.5 1.2 38.8 36.4-.4 1.1-33.7-2-.3 1.7 48.2 29.8-.2 1.1-22.4 1.8-.1 1.2 55.8 21.3v1l-21.8 7.6.2 1.3 134.7 9.9v1l-75 .6-1.5 15.4 94-1.5v1.2l-67.3 7.2-3 18.3 91.5-12.6.3 1.1-71.4 16.4L275 481l94-25.8.4 1.2-77.5 30.3.4 19.3 95-39.5.4 1-76.6 41.3 2.6 19.8 93-47.3.6 1-76 48.2 4.3 16.8 89.7-49.3.6 1-69.6 46.5 6.7 17.9 74-44.2.7 1-48.6 36 8.5 17 36-22 .6.8-13.5 11.7 6.7 13.5 8-2.9 11.3-4 6.2-2.3c1-.3 2-.9 3-1.3s2-1 3-1.6a42 42 0 0 0 5.4-4l1.3-1 1.1-1.2a29 29 0 0 0 2.2-2.4c.8-.7 1.4-1.6 2-2.4l1.8-2.4c.6-.8 1-1.7 1.4-2.5l1.3-2.4a42 42 0 0 0 1.7-4.3c.5-1.3.8-2.5 1-3.5l.6-2.3.2-.8 1.2.2v.8l-.4 2.4c-.1 1-.4 2.3-.9 3.7a45 45 0 0 1-1.4 4.7l-1.1 2.6-1.3 2.7c-.4 1-1.1 1.8-1.7 2.8l-1.9 2.8-2.1 2.7-1.2 1.3-1.3 1.2a46 46 0 0 1-5.6 4.8l-3 2-3.3 1.8a4341 4341 0 0 1-17.4 7.6L334 618.7 266.2 725l4 2.7 75.6-87.8 1 .7-45 66.2 27.6-4.3L371 641l1 .6-30.3 59.6 26-1.7 28.1-57.6 1.2.5-19.1 56.5 26.3-1.8 16.4-54.1 1.3.2-9.2 53 26.8-5.2 5.8-48.7h1.3v46.3l19.9-11.2-3-35 1.2-.2 7 32 7.1 4 5.3 14.4 7.8 2.7 15.8 12.8 6 4.8-.1.3-.4.7-10.3-4.5a3612 3612 0 0 0-114.5 33.4h.2l38.7 22.2 19 11 8.8 5 2.1 1.2 1 .5.5.3.3.1v.1l.3.2a22 22 0 0 1 3.6 2.9 16.3 16.3 0 0 1 4.3 7 16 16 0 0 1 .4 6.3 17 17 0 0 1-1 3.8l-.5 1.3-1.3-.5.4-1.3a16 16 0 0 0 .5-3.5 13 13 0 0 0-.7-5.4 14 14 0 0 0-4-5.6 17 17 0 0 0-3.4-2.3l-.3-.2-.6-.2-1-.4-2.2-1c-3-1.3-6-2.7-9.3-4l-20.1-9-12.9-5.6-29.7 9.5c-12.7 4-11.9 21 .1 25.4a2016 2016 0 0 0 54.1 19.8 47 47 0 0 0 39.6-2.6l47.5-21.6c33.7-17.9 81.2-56.1 81.2-56.1l.8.8-37 35.3c25.1-11.3 49.5-21.9 65.7-28.4a443 443 0 0 0 55.1-33.2l.8.8-25.4 23c28.8-5.5 76.1-10 101.7-10 34 .1 34.7-29.2 16.7-39.2m-86.1-202c4.5 4.4 9.2 8.6 13.8 13a19 19 0 0 1 1.4 1.9 10 10 0 0 1 .7 1l.5 1a15 15 0 0 1 .9 2.1 12 12 0 0 1 .4 2.2 11 11 0 0 1 .2 2.3 8 8 0 0 1 0 1.1c0 .4-.2.8-.3 1.1a13 13 0 0 1-.7 2.2c0 .3-.3.7-.5 1l-.5.9-1-.6.4-1a6 6 0 0 0 .4-.9 12 12 0 0 0 .4-1.9 8 8 0 0 0 0-1v-1a10 10 0 0 0-.3-1.9 10 10 0 0 0-.7-1.8 11 11 0 0 0-.9-1.7 7 7 0 0 0-.5-.8 9 9 0 0 0-.6-.8 15 15 0 0 0-1.3-1.3c-5-3.7-10-7.6-15.2-11.3zM669 475a6 6 0 0 1 1-2.6l.3-.4a3 3 0 0 1 .5-.6l.9-.7a6 6 0 0 1 1.2-.7l.3-.2 1.4-.2h.3l.8 1.5-.2.2a9 9 0 0 1-1 .9 1 1 0 0 1-.1.3l-.3.5-.3.5a1 1 0 0 1 0 .3l-.2.4a1 1 0 0 0 0 .3v.3a2 2 0 0 0 0 .5v.2a2 2 0 0 0 0 .6 2 2 0 0 0 .2.7v.2l.4.5a1 1 0 0 0 .2.4.7.7 0 0 1 .3.3 2 2 0 0 1 .5.4h.2l.4.3a4 4 0 0 0 1.3.3 4 4 0 0 0 1.3-.2l.6-.2.2-.1.4-.3a2 2 0 0 0 .5-.4l.3-.3a1 1 0 0 0 .2-.3l.1-.3a2 2 0 0 0 .3-.3l.2-.6a3 3 0 0 0 .2-.7v-.4a7 7 0 0 1 0-1v-.3l1.4-.6.2.3a9 9 0 0 1 .7 1.2l.2.4a6 6 0 0 1 .3 1.3v1a4 4 0 0 1-.2 1v.3a6.5 6.5 0 0 1-1.2 2.6 7 7 0 0 1-2.4 2l-.2.3-.4.1-.2.1-.8.3a6 6 0 0 1-1.7.3h-.6a9 9 0 0 1-3.2-.7l-.4-.2a7 7 0 0 1-1.2-.8 5 5 0 0 1-.7-.6 5 5 0 0 1-.7-.7 6 6 0 0 1-1-1.6l-.4-.9v-.3l-.1-.3v-.3a7 7 0 0 1-.2-1.5 5 5 0 0 1 .4-1.5m-1.7 33a9 9 0 0 1 1.3-2.6 8 8 0 0 1 .8-1l.4-.3.2-.2h.2l.2-.3a11 11 0 0 1 2.6-1.2 7 7 0 0 1 3.9-.2 5 5 0 0 1 1.2.3l1 .4a10 10 0 0 1 .8.6 9 9 0 0 1 .8.6l.6.7.5.6.2.5.4 1-.9.8a10 10 0 0 1-.9-.6l-.4-.2-.5-.2a6 6 0 0 0-1.1-.3 4 4 0 0 0-1-.2h-.4a2 2 0 0 0-.7 0h-.8a7 7 0 0 0-1.4.5 6 6 0 0 0-1.3.6l-.2.2-.4.4a2 2 0 0 0-.5.5 8 8 0 0 0-.9 1.1c-.1.2-.1.5-.3.7a2 2 0 0 0-.2.7 8 8 0 0 0-.4 1.3 6 6 0 0 0 0 1.3v.5l.1.5a7 7 0 0 1 .2 1l-.7.5a9 9 0 0 1-.9-.7l-.4-.5-.4-.6-.4-.7a7 7 0 0 1-.3-.9l-.3-1v-1.1a9 9 0 0 1 .3-2.5M221 223.1l1.5-1 39.9 53.1 65.5 31.4-.9 1.8-70.4-27.1zm-64 44.3 1.3-1.4 42.7 40.2 86.6 28-.6 1.8-91.6-23.3zm-22 23.3 1.2-1.2 46 37.4 102.4 28-.5 2-106.4-23zm8.2 55.4.6-1.8 141.7 29.2-.4 2-105-16zm151.3 49.3-74.6-6.8-37.7-11 .5-1.9 112 17.8zm3-77L222 293.3l-31.3-43.1 1.3-1.1 36.3 38.6 70.1 29zm9.6 27.1-1.3-.6.1-16.3 1.6-.2 1.8 9.8 33.3-17 .8 1.4zm4.6 25.3.2-16.3 1.6-.2 1.8 9.8 44-23.3.7 1.3-47 29.3zm14 23.2-1.4-.8.3-16.3 1.5-.2 1.8 9.9 46.5-25.2.8 1.3zm18.5 19-1.4-.6.2-16.4 1.6-.1 1.8 9.9 45.5-23.8.8 1.3zm23.2 16.5-1.2-.7.2-16.2 1.6-.3 1.8 9.9 40-20.9 1 1.3zm25 15.8-1.2-.6.3-16 1.4-.3 1.9 9.7 33.2-17 .8 1.3zm24.6 15.1-1.3-.6.3-15.6h1.5l1.8 9L443 442l.8 1.3zm20.2 15.2-1.1-.7.6-13h1.4l1.5 6.8 16.9-7.4.7 1.2zm15.3 16.4-1.2-.8 1.4-11.9 1.5.2.6 5.8 20.6-9.1.8 1.3zm12.3 37-1.1-.8 1.6-9.4h1.4l.3 3.6 9.8-4 .8 1.3zm-3.9-19.7-1.2-.8 1.5-9.4h1.5l.5 3.7 14.5-7 .8 1.2zm-56 111.1-.8-.7 2.3-4.3-4.4-1.9.2-1.1h11.4l.3 1zm32 0-.8-.7 2.3-4.3-4.4-1.9.2-1.1h11.4l.4 1zm8.4 186-11.5-4-11.5-3.8-23-7.3-.2-.1a3 3 0 0 1-2-3.9 3 3 0 0 1 2-2l23.7-6.5.4 1-15.6 8.2 16 7.1c3.8 1.6 7.4 3.4 11 5l11 5.2zm121.5-201.2-1-.6 2.1-5.9-6-1.5v-1l14-2.4.5 1zm-24.4-34.8v-1l21-7 .7.8-12.4 18.5-1-.4 1.9-10zm-9 43.2v-1.1l11.2-2 .5 1-7.7 8.4-1-.5 1.6-4.6zm.9-77.2-.1-1.1 21.3-6.2.7.9-13.1 18-1-.5 2.2-9.9zm55.2 42.7-1-.6 2-5.8-6-1.5V570l14-2.3.5 1zm17.2-54.3 2.5-5.7-5.9-2 .2-1 14.1-1.3.5 1-10.5 9.7zm18.5-62.3h11.4l.3 1-9 7-.8-.7 2.3-4.3-4.4-2zm-5.7 83.2-7.8 8.3-1-.5 1.6-4.6-4.6-1.2v-1.1l11.2-1.9zm-.7-62.2-14 10.9-.8-.7 3.8-7-7.3-3.2.2-1.1h17.8zm-26.1-28h14.2l.3 1-11.2 8.7-.8-.7 3-5.5-5.8-2.4zm-1.5 80.7L580 549.9l-1-.5 2.2-7.6-7.8-1.5V539l17.4-3.8zm-1.5-34.3.5.9-14 16.1-1-.5 3-9.2-9.5-2V506zm-7.6-25.7-14 10.8-1-.7 4-7-7.4-3.1.3-1.1h17.8zm-26.8-20.7h11.4l.3 1-9 7-.8-.7 2.3-4.3-4.5-2zm-5.1 41.7.5 1-15.4 16-1-.6 3.5-9.5-9.8-2.6v-1.1zm-35.2 93V589l17.5-3.6.5 1-11.5 13.5-1-.5 2.3-7.7zm8-119.6h17.7l.4 1-14 10.9-.9-.8 3.8-7-7.3-3zm-1 86.8-10.7 14.2-1-.5 1.8-7.8-7.8-1V561l17-4.7zm-5.4-28.5-11 13-1-.6 2.1-7.3-7.4-1.5v-1.1l16.7-3.5zm-20-25.5 14-2.3.5 1-9.6 10.4-1-.6 2-5.8-6-1.5zm-36.7 98.4-.9-.7 2.4-4.3-4.5-2 .3-1h11.4l.3 1zm9.3 25.1-.8-.7 2.3-4.2-4.4-2 .2-1h11.4l.3 1zm13-42-1-.7 3-5.6-5.9-2.2.2-1.2 14.2-.4.4 1zm8.8 23.8-.9-.7 3-5.5-5.7-2.4.3-1.1h14.2l.3 1zm13.8 20.4-.9-.7 2.4-4.3-4.5-2 .3-1h11.4l.3 1zM456 747l-3.9 1.3-3 .9-2.8.8-4 1.2-.6-1.7.3-.2 3.5-1.4 4.2-1.7 1-.4 4.3-1.7a586 586 0 0 1 11.9-4.5l1.5-.5 3-1.1c4-1.4 8.2-3 12.5-4.4a942 942 0 0 1 15.7-5l2.1-.7 5-1.5 6.6-1.7 8-2 1.8-.5 3.8-.8h.3l.6 1.7-.4.1-3.6 1.4-2.5.9-7 2.4-6.4 2.1-1.5.5-5.7 2c-5 1.7-10.2 3.4-15.5 5l-4 1.4-11.5 3.8-5.5 1.7zm122-22.5-3.9 1.3-9.3 3.3-2.1.7-6.7 2.3c-3.2 1-6.5 2.3-9.7 3.4L525 743l-13.7 5-7.5 2.7c-2.3 1-4.5 1.7-6.7 2.5l-3 1-6.2 2.3-2.6 1a650 650 0 0 1-9.4 3.3l-3.7 1.4-5 1.7-.4.1-.7-1.7.4-.2 4.9-2 3.6-1.6 9.2-3.9 1.8-.7 6.8-2.8 3.1-1.2 6.6-2.6 7.5-2.9c4.5-1.6 9-3.4 13.7-5l21.4-7.4 5-1.7 4.8-1.5 9-2.7 9.3-2.7 4-1.2 5.5-1.6.6 1.8zm-49-22 .1-1.2a11 11 0 0 1 1.2-.2 5 5 0 0 1 1.3 0 6 6 0 0 1 1.7 0h.4l.6.2a10 10 0 0 1 1 .3 16 16 0 0 1 2.2.8 14 14 0 0 1 2.1 1.4 15 15 0 0 1 2 1.8l.5.7a9 9 0 0 1 1 1.4 16 16 0 0 1 1 2.3 13 13 0 0 1 .6 2.3l.2 1v1a8 8 0 0 1-.2 1.8 5 5 0 0 1-.2 1.3l-.4 1h-1.2l-.3-1a6 6 0 0 0-.4-1.1 12 12 0 0 0-.5-1.4 11 11 0 0 0-.7-1.5 15 15 0 0 0-.9-1.6l-1-1.5-1.2-1.5-1-1a2 2 0 0 0-.3-.4l-1.4-1.3c-.4-.4-1-.8-1.5-1a16 16 0 0 0-1.4-.9l-1.3-.7-1-.5zm34.7-9 .4.1a16 16 0 0 1 2.2.9 12 12 0 0 1 2.1 1.4 15 15 0 0 1 2 1.7 12 12 0 0 1 1.5 2.2 15 15 0 0 1 1 2.2 15 15 0 0 1 .6 2.3l.2 1v1a10 10 0 0 1-.1 1.8 5 5 0 0 1-.3 1.3l-.4 1h-1.1a11 11 0 0 1-.4-1c0-.4-.2-.8-.4-1.2l-.5-1.3a14 14 0 0 0-.7-1.5 16 16 0 0 0-.9-1.6l-1-1.5-1.1-1.6c-.4-.6-.9-1-1.4-1.4L564 698a18 18 0 0 0-1.4-1 17 17 0 0 0-2.7-1.6 10 10 0 0 0-1-.6l-.4-.1-8.6 2.1-1.2.3 1 .3a18 18 0 0 1 2.2 1 13 13 0 0 1 2 1.3 13 13 0 0 1 2 1.8 15 15 0 0 1 1.5 2.1 14 14 0 0 1 1.1 2.3 18 18 0 0 1 .6 2.3l.2 1v1a10 10 0 0 1-.1 1.7 8 8 0 0 1-.3 1.3 7 7 0 0 1-.4 1h-1.2l-.3-1a9 9 0 0 0-.4-1.1l-.5-1.3-.7-1.6-.8-1.5-1-1.6c-.3-.6-.9-1-1.2-1.5a16 16 0 0 0-1.4-1.4l-1.4-1.3c-.4-.5-1-.7-1.4-1l-1.4-.9-1.3-.7-1-.5-.9-.4-15.4-17.8-7.6-42.6 1.5-.7 29.4 35.8 10.2-.2 26.2 14.6zm46.6-11.1.1-1 1.2-.1a6 6 0 0 1 1.3 0 11 11 0 0 1 1.7 0h.1l.9.2 1 .3a12 12 0 0 1 4.2 2.4 10 10 0 0 1 1.5 1.4l.4.4a14 14 0 0 1 1.5 2.1 17 17 0 0 1 1 2.3 14 14 0 0 1 .5 2.3l.1 1v1a7 7 0 0 1-.1 1.8 6 6 0 0 1-.3 1.3l-.5 1h-1l-.4-1a8 8 0 0 0-.4-1.2l-.5-1.3-.6-1.5-.9-1.6-1-1.6a18 18 0 0 0-1.1-1.6l-1.3-1.4a4 4 0 0 0-.7-.6 11 11 0 0 1-.7-.7l-1.4-1-1.4-1-1.3-.7-1-.5-1-.5zm36.6 23.6-1.8.6-1.4.4-3.4 1a259 259 0 0 1-14.5 3.5l-1.4.3a346 346 0 0 1-13.7 3l-3.6.5-1.4.2-1.9.3h-.3l-.4-1.8.3-.1 1.8-.6 1-.4 3.8-1.2c4.4-1.4 9.8-2.9 14.6-4l8-1.6 7-1.2 3.6-.4 1.4-.2 2-.2h.3l.3 1.8zm17-16.9h-.3l-.4-1.8h.3l2.4-.7a417 417 0 0 1 6.2-1.6 444 444 0 0 1 18.9-4h.2l10-1.8 8.3-1.2h.6l4.8-.6 1.5-.2 2.4-.2h.4l.3 1.8h-.4l-2.3.7-1.7.4-4.5 1-4.8 1-4 .9-8.5 1.7-1.6.3a450 450 0 0 1-23.7 3.8l-1.7.2-2.4.4zm78 2.3-3.2.5-5.5 1a457 457 0 0 1-12.3 2l-7 1-1.4.2-5.7.9-5.5.7-8.6 1.3-4.9.7-1.6.2-5.8.8-6 .8-2.7.3-3.7.4-.3-1.8 3.6-.8 2.5-.6 6.1-1.2 3.2-.7 2.6-.5 2.6-.5 3.8-.7c2.1-.4 4.5-.9 7-1.2l7.1-1.1 7.2-1 7-1 8.2-.8 4.1-.5 7.8-.6 1-.1 3.4-.2h.3l.2 1.8z"></path></symbol><symbol id="6f4d1bc6d16cc062" viewBox="0 0 12 12"><path fill="currentColor" d="M2.46 1.07 3.54 0l6 6-6 6-1.08-1.07L7.4 6z"></path></symbol><symbol id="0a0df087e37b7de2" viewBox="0 0 16 16"><path fill="currentColor" d="M0 3h16v2H0zm0 4h16v2H0zm0 4h16v2H0z"></path></symbol><symbol id="6b081fe6f5d2d48e" viewBox="0 0 24 24"><circle cx="12" cy="12" r="12" fill="#fff"></circle><path fill="#353533" d="M17.9 15.8c-.2-.1-.2-.1-1.2-.7 0 0-.8.2-1.8.4 0 0 0 .1.1.1v.1h-.2v.1l-.6-.5v-.2l-.1-.4.1-.2V14l-.6.6 1.9-2.2-.6-.1h1c.1.1.3.2.5.1l-.2-.3.1-.1c.1 0 .2 0 .2.1q.15.15 0 .3c.1 0 .2-.1.3-.2s.1-.4 0-.5l-.3-.3c0-.3-.1-.5-.4-.6-.5-.2-.9-.4-.9-.4h-1.3l1.3-.2.4-.3 1.5-.6s.1 0 .1-.1l.1-.1.8-2.1 1.8-2.4-1.2.8.5-1-.8 1.1.1-1.1-.3 1.1-.5-1.1.3 1.3v.6l-.1-.6-.8-1.3.6 1.4v1l-.1-1-1-1.3.9 1.4.1 1.4-.9-1.3-1.2-1.2 1 1.3.1 1.7-.3-1.6-1.2-1 1 1.1.2 1.7-.4-1.6-1.2-.8 1 .9.3 1.7-.5-1.6-1.1-.6 1 .7.3 1.7-.5-1.5-1.1-.4.9.5.4 1.5-.6-1.4-1-.2.8.3.4 1.4-.7-1.1-.9-.1.7.2.5 1.1-.7-.9h-.8l.6.1.6.8-.7-.6-.8.2h.7l.5.8-.8-.4-.9.1h.8l.7.4-.7-.2-1.2.2H13l.7.3-.7.1-1.8.3 1.4.1-1.1.2h.8l-.9.2.4.5-.8-.7-2.2-3-2-1-1.7-1.3-.4-1.3.2 1.5.8 1.2-1.2-.9-.5-1 .2 1.2.5 1-1-.8-.4-.6.2.9.5.8-.9-.5-.4-.4.3.7.4.5-.5-.1.9.9H3l1.1.7h-.5l1.2.5-.4.2 3 .2H5.7v.3h2.1l-1.5.2-.1.4 2-.3-1.6.4v.5l2.1-.6-1.7.8v.4l2.1-.9-1.7.9.1.4 2.1-1-1.7 1.1.1.4 2-1.1-1.5 1 .1.5 1.6-1-1.1.8.2.4.8-.5-.3.3.1.3.2-.1.3-.1.1-.1h.2l.1-.1v-.8.8l-.1.1h-.2c-.1.1-.3.1-.4.2l-2.3.9-1.5 2.4.1.1 1.7-1.9-1 1.5.6-.1.9-1.4-.7 1.3h.6l.6-1.3-.2 1.3h.6l.4-1.2-.2 1.2.6-.1.1-1.1v1l.4-.2-.1-.8.2.7.2.1.1.3.2.1.4.3.1.1-.2-.1c-.9.2-1.7.5-2.5.7l.9.5.4.2.2.1s.1 0 .1.1c0 0 .1.1.1.2v.2-.2s0-.1-.1-.1l-.1-.1c-.1 0-.1-.1-.2-.1l-.4-.2-.3-.1-.8.2c-.3.1-.3.5 0 .6.4.2.8.3 1.2.4.1.1.3.1.4.1.2 0 .3-.1.4-.1l1.1-.5c.7-.4 1.8-1.2 1.8-1.2l-.8.8q.9-.45 1.5-.6c.4-.2.8-.5 1.2-.7l-.6.5c.6-.1 1.7-.2 2.3-.2.7-.1.8-.8.4-1M16 11.3l.3.3v.1c-.2-.1-.3-.2-.3-.4m-.7-.3s.1 0 0 0q.15 0 0 0 .15 0 0 0l.1-.1v.1h-.2zq0 .15 0 0 0 .15 0 0m0 .8s0-.1 0 0q0-.15 0 0l.1-.1h.1c-.1.1-.1.1-.2.1q.15 0 0 0 .15 0 0 0c.1 0 .1.1 0 0l.1.1v-.1zM5.4 5.4l.9 1.2 1.5.7-1.6-.6zM4 6.4l1 .9 1.9.6-2-.5zm-.5.5 1 .8 2.3.6-2.4-.4zm.2 1.3 3.2.6-2.4-.3zM7 9.3l-1.6-.2-.9-.2zm.1-1.7L5.4 7l-.7-1 .8.9zm.2.6v-.4.2l.7-.4zm.1.5v-.4.2l1-.5zm.3.5v-.4.2l1-.6zm.4.5v-.4.2l1-.5zm.6.3v-.4.2l.9-.5zm.5.4V10v.2l.8-.4zm.6.3v-.4.2l.5-.2zm.4.4v-.3.2l.4-.2zm.3.3v-.3.1l.5-.2zm.3.8V12v.1l.2-.1zm-.1-.4v-.2.1l.3-.2zm-1.2 2.5v-.1h-.1.3zm.7 0v-.1h-.1.3zm.2 4.1-.3-.1-.3-.1-.5-.2.5-.1-.3.1.4.2c.1 0 .2.1.2.1zm2.7-4.5v-.1H13l.3-.1zm-.6-.7.5-.2-.3.4v-.2zm-.2.9.2-.1-.2.2zm.1-1.7.5-.2-.3.4v-.2zm1.2.9v-.1h-.1l.3-.1zm.4-1.2V12h-.1.3zm.4-1.3h.3l-.2.2zm-.2 1.8-.2.2v-.1h-.1zm0-1.4-.3.2.1-.2-.2-.1zm-.5-.6h.3l-.2.2.1-.1zm-.1 1.8-.2.3v-.2h-.2zm0-.8-.3.4.1-.2h-.2zm-.2-.5-.3.2.1-.2H13zm-.6-.5h.3l-.2.2zm-.1.9-.3.4.1-.2-.2-.1zm-.8 2.1.4-.1-.3.3.1-.2zm.2-2.7h.4l-.3.2.1-.2zm0 2-.2.3V13h-.2zm-.1-.7-.2.3v-.2h-.2zm-.5-.5.3-.1-.2.2v-.1zm-.8 2.2v-.1h-.1.3zm.2.5v-.1h-.1.3zm.3-.9v-.1h-.1.3zm.2.5v-.1l-.1-.1h.3zm.3.5v-.1h-.1.3zm-1.1 2.6h-.4zc.1-.1.2-.1.2-.2h.1c.1 0 .2-.1.3-.1s.2-.1.3-.1h.5-.2l-.2.1h-.2c-.1 0-.2.1-.3.1H11l-.1.1h-.1zm2.7-.5-.3.1-.1.1c-.1 0-.1.1-.2.1l-.5.1-.3.1-.2.1c-.1 0-.1 0-.1.1h-.1l-.1.1h-.1c-.1 0-.1 0-.2.1h-.2.2l.2-.1.2-.1h.1l.1-.1.2-.1c.1 0 .2-.1.3-.1l.5-.2h.2l.2-.1zl.1-.1zm-1.1-.5q.15 0 0 0 .15 0 0 0 .15 0 0 0h.1v.2c0-.2 0-.2-.1-.2m.8-.2s.1 0 0 0c.1 0 .1 0 .1.1v.1zq0 .15 0 0c0 .1-.1 0 0 0h-.3v.2l-.3-.4-.2-.9.7.8h.2l.6.3zm1-.3q.15 0 0 0 .15 0 0 0h.1s.1 0 .1.1v.2zm.9.6h-.1c-.1 0-.2.1-.3.1s-.2 0-.3.1h-.1.1c.1 0 .2-.1.3-.1h.4zm.3-.4c.1-.1.1-.1.2-.1s.3-.1.4-.1h.6-.6c-.1.1-.3.2-.6.2m1.8 0h-1.6 1.8z"></path></symbol><symbol id="d19337775de06d7c" viewBox="0 0 32 32"><path fill="currentColor" d="M16 0a16 16 0 1 0 .01 32.01A16 16 0 0 0 16 0m-3.2 24-8-8 2.26-2.26 5.74 5.73L24.94 7.33 27.2 9.6z"></path></symbol><symbol id="49dd8d1b9676e37e" viewBox="0 0 32 32"><circle cx="16" cy="16" r="15" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2"></circle><path fill="currentColor" d="M23 7H9v18l7-3 7 3zm-2 15-5-2.18L11 22V9h10z"></path></symbol><symbol id="376fb154e7aaf042" viewBox="0 0 32 32"><path fill="currentColor" fill-rule="evenodd" d="M16 32a16 16 0 1 0 0-32 16 16 0 0 0 0 32m0-11.05 6.03 2.6V8.02H9.98v15.55z" clip-rule="evenodd"></path></symbol><symbol id="4d1b72e3f6ac55c7" viewBox="0 0 32 32"><circle cx="16" cy="16" r="16" fill="currentColor"></circle><path fill="#fff" d="M13.5 31.83q1.02.16 2.09.2h.84q1.06-.04 2.07-.2v-11.2h3.73l.7-4.62H18.5v-3c0-1.27.62-2.5 2.6-2.5h2.02V6.56s-1.83-.31-3.58-.31c-3.65 0-6.04 2.21-6.04 6.22V16H9.44v4.63h4.06z"></path></symbol><symbol id="83f0addbd2f6f2be" viewBox="0 0 32 32"><circle cx="16" cy="16" r="16" fill="currentColor"></circle><path fill="#fff" fill-rule="evenodd" d="m24 7-6.55 7.62L24.57 25h-5.23l-4.8-6.99L8.56 25H7l6.86-8L7 7h5.23l4.54 6.62L22.44 7zm-9.36 9.1.7 1 4.72 6.78h2.38l-5.8-8.31-.69-1-4.46-6.4H9.1l5.53 7.93Z" clip-rule="evenodd"></path></symbol><symbol id="dade8ead527a9e32" viewBox="0 0 32 32"><circle cx="16" cy="16" r="16" fill="currentColor"></circle><path fill="#fff" fill-rule="evenodd" d="M16.09 5c2.88 0 5.7 1.13 7.73 3.21A10.8 10.8 0 0 1 27 15.88a10.98 10.98 0 0 1-16.19 9.63L5 27l1.56-5.65A10.9 10.9 0 0 1 16.09 5m-4.98 18.55.36.18a9 9 0 0 0 9.36-.12 8.94 8.94 0 0 0 2.93-12.43 9.1 9.1 0 0 0-12.53-2.91A8.95 8.95 0 0 0 8.3 20.7l.24.35-.9 3.4zm9.6-5.47.66.3q.17.1.18.12v.41c-.07.3-.12.6-.24.84q-.1.17-.3.35l-.18.15-.18.15-.12.12-.22.13-.2.1c-.24.13-.6.24-.9.24h-.6q-.15-.04-.3-.05-.16-.02-.3-.06a11 11 0 0 1-4.32-2.26 2 2 0 0 0-.3-.31l-.18-.17-.24-.24a10 10 0 0 1-2.22-3.03l-.06-.18a3 3 0 0 1 .51-3.39l.15-.18.18-.11q.09-.08.18-.12l.06-.06.18-.03.18-.03h.66c.18.06.3.12.42.3.18.35.9 1.96.96 2.25.06.18 0 .42-.12.6l-.15.2-.15.22c-.18.17-.42.47-.42.47q-.07.1-.06.3.04.06.05.11l.07.13.06.11c.3.54.72 1.02 1.14 1.43l.21.18.21.18a6 6 0 0 0 1.74 1.13l.3.12c.06.06.18.12.24.12h.06q.2 0 .3-.18l.9-1.01q.16-.1.42-.12l.09.03.09.03c.6.3 1.56.71 1.56.71" clip-rule="evenodd"></path></symbol><symbol id="0efb5aeedd4906d0" viewBox="0 0 32 32"><circle cx="16" cy="16" r="16" fill="currentColor"></circle><path fill="#fff" d="M6 8.25h-.75v15.5h21.5V8.25zm.75 12.98V10.76l5.4 5.21zm1.1 1.02 5.39-5.23 1.05 1.01c.49.47 1.14.67 1.74.67s1.25-.2 1.73-.66l1.04-1 5.35 5.21zm17.4-1.02-5.36-5.22 5.36-5.14zM7.86 9.75h16.4l-7.54 7.2a1 1 0 0 1-.69.25q-.45-.01-.7-.25z"></path></symbol><symbol id="8b9185e0e27e46a7" viewBox="0 0 308 51"><path fill="#F7F7F7" d="M0 0h308v51H0z"></path><path fill="#EB1426" d="M0 43h34.22v8H0z"></path><path fill="#FF8111" d="M34.22 43h34.22v8H34.22z"></path><path fill="#40A9EF" d="M68.45 43h34.22v8H68.45z"></path><path fill="#F1C40F" d="M102.67 43h34.22v8h-34.22z"></path><path fill="#D84BA2" d="M136.89 43h34.22v8h-34.22z"></path><path fill="#57D68D" d="M171.11 43h34.22v8h-34.22z"></path><path fill="#6678F0" d="M205.33 43h34.22v8h-34.22z"></path><path fill="#FD5D65" d="M239.56 43h34.22v8h-34.22z"></path><path fill="#FFADE0" d="M273.78 43H308v8h-34.22z"></path><path fill="#EB1426" d="M12 30.85h39.78v2.07H12zm56.1 0h44.88v2.08H68.1z"></path><path fill="#191919" d="M61.63 27.41c-.38.33-.73.67-1.14.95a4.6 4.6 0 0 1-3.72.86 3.8 3.8 0 0 1-2.88-2.47 10 10 0 0 1-.6-3.52q-.02-1.85 0-3.7l-.04-.53-.88-.08c-.17-.32-.18-3.74-.01-4.11h6.5q.05.24.05.52l.02 2.68q.01 2.62.05 5.26c.01 1.2.9 1.8 1.98 1.36a1 1 0 0 0 .66-.75q.08-.39.09-.78v-3.65c0-.14-.03-.26-.05-.45l-1.22-.08v-4.1h6.8q.05.23.07.47.01 6.33-.01 12.68a9 9 0 0 1-.76 3.62 5.6 5.6 0 0 1-4.23 3.15c-2.17.42-4.34.26-6.5-.13l-1.53-.33-.45-.15v-4.16q.27 0 .47.04 2.55.46 5.14.37.58-.05 1.15-.2c.56-.13.99-.62 1.03-1.22.06-.5.05-1.02.07-1.53zM50.98 9.17v15.54l1 .1v4.05c-.27.14-6.16.17-6.6 0v-1.38l-.11-.03-.56.55a4.4 4.4 0 0 1-5.1.92c-1.17-.49-1.84-1.5-2.3-2.67a10 10 0 0 1-.62-3.08c-.1-1.64-.06-3.27.37-4.88.28-1.07.71-2.1 1.56-2.8a4.2 4.2 0 0 1 4.83-.56c.54.26 1 .72 1.48 1.1q.16.14.27.33l.1-.04v-2.96l-1.22-.07c-.14-.29-.18-3.59-.05-4.12l.4-.07h6.08zm-5.65 12.7q.02-.79 0-1.57-.04-1.27-1.26-1.3-1.36-.06-1.44 1.24a45 45 0 0 0 0 3.25c.03.84.55 1.27 1.4 1.25q1.24-.05 1.3-1.32.02-.75 0-1.55m-24.96 7.04v-4.1l.98-.11V19l-.97-.1v-4.07h6.6v1.45l.11.03q.38-.37.8-.72a4.7 4.7 0 0 1 4.41-1.02c1.45.4 2.3 1.48 2.7 2.92q.3 1.23.36 2.5c.05 1.4.01 2.8.02 4.2l.04.5 1.05.1c.01 1.38.02 2.72 0 4.11h-7.64c-.17-.33-.18-3.75-.01-4.1l.9-.07a1 1 0 0 0 .08-.28c-.02-1.38 0-2.78-.06-4.17-.06-1.16-1.16-1.7-2.11-1.1-.22.14-.4.45-.5.7a2 2 0 0 0-.09.74v3.63c0 .14.03.26.04.45l1 .08c.03 1.36 0 2.7 0 4.1q-.22.05-.46.07h-6.8q-.22 0-.45-.05m57.87-9.56h6.32l.07 1.25c.06 1 .15 2.01.53 2.95.31.77.82 1.3 1.67 1.36.65.05 1.23-.16 1.63-.72.52-.74.73-1.6.82-2.48q.09-1.02.15-2.06 0-.15.05-.32h6.34a11 11 0 0 1-.37 3.16 9 9 0 0 1-2.84 4.6c-2.66 2.3-7.24 2.56-10.42.58-2.97-1.86-4.1-5.5-3.95-8.32m24.51.01.03.75c.02 1.03.08 2.05.4 3.04q.2.56.52 1.05a1.8 1.8 0 0 0 2.96-.04c.48-.68.67-1.5.76-2.31.08-.68.09-1.37.14-2.05l.07-.42h6.36q.06 1.61-.4 3.18a8.7 8.7 0 0 1-2.79 4.55c-2.77 2.35-7.42 2.6-10.55.53-2.95-1.94-3.98-5.53-3.86-8.26zm11.2-.95h-6.34q0-.34-.05-.65c-.1-.85-.18-1.69-.34-2.52a3 3 0 0 0-.5-1.17 1.8 1.8 0 0 0-2.58-.58q-.33.23-.55.56a5.3 5.3 0 0 0-.74 2.6q-.05.66-.08 1.34l-.06.4h-6.32c-.19-2.14.7-5.69 3.27-7.7a9.3 9.3 0 0 1 10.41-.4c3.04 2.02 4.03 5.73 3.88 8.12m-18.12 0h-6.36l-.1-1.5a7 7 0 0 0-.62-2.58q-.77-1.4-2.27-1.04c-.55.13-.92.5-1.18.99-.36.68-.5 1.41-.57 2.17q-.09.95-.16 1.95h-6.35a10 10 0 0 1 .46-3.32 8.6 8.6 0 0 1 2.94-4.42 9.1 9.1 0 0 1 10.89.06 8.6 8.6 0 0 1 2.9 4.44q.45 1.59.42 3.25m-77.17 6.32.96.07c.17.29.21 3.72.04 4.15h-7.6V24.8l1-.08v-5.7l-1.02-.1c-.05-1.36-.03-2.7-.03-4.1h6.65zm60.19.56v3.38H68.4v-3.38h1.15c.75 0 1.05-.31 1.05-1.09v-4.27q0-.28.05-.58h6.2l.04.51v4.4q0 1.03.98 1.03zm-2.01-16.1v9.2H70.6v-4.33c-.81.38-1.47 1.05-2.4.68v-3.5l.2-.13q1.84-.95 3.7-1.86.2-.09.4-.08h3.95q.18-.01.4.02M15.37 8a2.8 2.8 0 0 1 2.78 2.86v.05a2.9 2.9 0 0 1-2.78 2.94 2.9 2.9 0 0 1-2.78-2.95c0-1.6 1.24-2.9 2.78-2.9"></path></symbol></svg><script type="application/json" id="js-globals">{"mode":"production","adTargeting":true,"domain":"independent.co.uk","ga":"","hubspot":"","siteKey":"","searchId":"","gptTag":"","userLogin":true,"userSubscribe":true,"userComments":true,"pianoEnvironment":"production","showcaseProductId":"independent.co.uk:showcase","prebidEnabled":true,"sentry":{"sampleRate":0.1,"tracesSampleRate":0.1,"release":"6.0.2","environment":"prod","cdn":"https://js-de.sentry-cdn.com/b13d2fa91fcf9109fbcf851a0c86c0f6.min.js","replaysSessionSampleRate":0.1,"replaysOnErrorSampleRate":1},"httpStatusCode":200,"lang":"en","staticHost":"static.independent.co.uk","indexExchange":{"scriptUrl":"//js-sec.indexww.com/ht/p/184658-111437137524152.js"},"ozone":{"publisherId":"OZONEESI0001","siteId":"4204204237","siteIdUS":"1500000491","tagId":"4441070001"},"MOCK_ENV":false,"ADOBE_ANALYTICS_OBJECT":"s_object","adNetworkId":931398,"manifest":{"react-archipelago.js":"/_build/react-archipelago.e1bab51f7d0e28ff2165.js","prebid.js":"/_build/prebid.8c8709e4aec9f67b9596.js","prebid_non_uk.js":"/_build/prebid_non_uk.c26d29ad0a4c99a36544.js","init_register_wall.js":"/_build/init_register_wall.e98a10cd9837490d02e6.js"},"config":{"mobileAppLinks":{"android":{"us":"https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.independent.mindsus","uk":"https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.freerange360.mpp.indy&hl=en_GB"},"ios":{"us":"https://apps.apple.com/us/app/the-independent-breaking-news/id1436169192","uk":"https://apps.apple.com/us/app/independent-premium/id499587380"}}},"adobe":{"host":"ssc.independent.co.uk","trackingServer":"sc.independent.co.uk","trackingServerSecure":"ssc.independent.co.uk","reportSuiteId":"indepdev"},"viafoura":{"endpoint":"https://livecomments.viafoura.co","section_uuid":"00000000-0000-4000-8000-a89270e0ff9b"},"featureFlags":{"feat__cmp_force_enable":false,"feat__debug_timings":false,"feat__force_piano_prod":false,"feat__debug_badge":false,"__DEBUG__":false,"feat__pride_logo_all":false,"feat__price_comparison_ab_test":false,"feat__no_amp":true,"feat__flow_no_amp":true,"feat__ad_refresh":true,"feat__ad_api":true,"feat__flags_api":false,"feat__piano_marketing_sandbox":false,"feat__nsc_tide_repurpose":false,"feat__disable_xdomain_login":false,"feat__anonymised":true,"feat__pubx_integration":true,"feat__wine_disclaimer":false,"feat__no_pixels_player":false,"feat__subscription_save_offer":false,"feat__subscribe_now_copy_header":true,"feat__fullstory":false,"feat__dynamic_pricing":true,"feat__sentry":false,"feat__disable_premium_styles":true,"feat__replace_subscribe_with_support":true,"feat__add_support_content_to_drawer":false,"feat__us_contributions_encore_component":false,"feat__support_now_donate_copy":false,"feat__newsletter_page_redesign":false,"feat__new_editions":true,"feat__live_ramp":false,"feat__selling_page_no_app":false,"feat__us_donations_ab_test":false,"feat__primis_player":false,"feat__dynamic_pricing_on_selling_page":false,"feat__navlinks_increased":true},"featureModes":{},"adConfig":{"slots":{"out-of-page":{"refresh":false},"thirdparty_05":{"refresh":false},"skin":{"refresh":false},"thirdparty01":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":150000},"thirdparty02":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":150000},"bottom_banner_0":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"mpu1":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"top_banner":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"blog_mpu_1":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"blog_mpu_2":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"blog_mpu_3":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"blog_mpu_4":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"blog_mpu_5":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"partner_ad_1":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"content":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"mpu_bottom_sb_1":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"mpu_bottom_sb_2":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"bottom_mpu_1":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"bottom_mpu_2":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"bottom_mpu_3":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"bottom_mpu_4":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"bottom_mpu_5":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"thirdparty_03":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"billboard":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000},"mobile_footer":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000}},"settings":{"refresh":true,"intervalMS":13000,"renderMarginPercent":10,"mobileScaling":1},"advertisers":{"47286525":{"name":"House ads","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"50286645":{"name":"Collective via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"71453085":{"name":"Just Premium via prebid","forceRefresh":false,"disableRefresh":true},"88411725":{"name":"AdX","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"106848405":{"name":"Ad You Like via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"5165756391":{"name":"33Across via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"5154149170":{"name":"Improve Digital via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"5101369811":{"name":"Index Exchange via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"5241892486":{"name":"JWP via prebid","forceRefresh":false,"disableRefresh":false},"5132944217":{"name":"Kargo via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"4998716592":{"name":"Mediagrid via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"5300902965":{"name":"Minute Media via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"5028025877":{"name":"Pubmatic via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"4610208380":{"name":"Rubicon via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"5154144862":{"name":"Xandr via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"5015554781":{"name":"Xandr 2 via prebid ","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"4882002162":{"name":"Yieldmo via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"5351690366":{"name":"GumGum via prebid","forceRefresh":false,"disableRefresh":true},"4736819267":{"name":"test advertiser","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"4898735440":{"name":"Ozone Project via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"5343045056":{"name":"Ozone via prebid","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false},"5366102386":{"name":"Invibes via prebid","forceRefresh":false,"disableRefresh":true},"5123865256":{"name":"Criteo via prebid","forceRefresh":false,"disableRefresh":true},"4911815442":{"name":"BEN TEST advertiser","forceRefresh":true,"disableRefresh":false}},"campaigns":{"348371":{"name":"Vauxhall Energising Britain Part 2 with The Independent","disableRefresh":true},"364263300":{"name":"INDY | Seedtag | | GLOBAL |_Outstream_| DIRECT | NOV24","disableRefresh":true},"2761961160":{"name":"ESI | Ozone Project | Direct Campaigns | UK | 2020/21/22/23 |_PMP_|","disableRefresh":true},"2990158071":{"name":"INDY | HOUSE | US+CA | MIXED FORMATS","disableRefresh":true},"3032362505":{"name":"Connor test","disableRefresh":true},"3272469977":{"name":"JNTO Unicef Critman | Test Order | Seamless Skin | 970x250","disableRefresh":true},"3272482229":{"name":" ESI | Ozone Project | Direct Campaigns | UK | BBC Earth","disableRefresh":true},"3276674834":{"name":"Stansted Express (346735)","disableRefresh":true},"3321116059":{"name":"Soreen page shells (347033)","disableRefresh":true},"3343395094":{"name":"Next Sports Multibrand (347131)","disableRefresh":true},"3375838714":{"name":"Imaginary (347350) - [ADP]","disableRefresh":true},"3391153359":{"name":"Vauxhall Energising Britain Part 1 with The Independent (347361) - [ADP]","disableRefresh":true},"3415096212":{"name":"Paloma Faith (347464) - [ADP]","disableRefresh":true},"3529478858":{"name":"INDY | FX | OMG23 | Welcome to Wrexham S3 | US |_Direct Set Up_| DIRECT | APR24 (347843) - [ADP]","disableRefresh":true},"3544888740":{"name":" BRITISH AIRWAYS TOBAGO (348315)","disableRefresh":true},"3547182442":{"name":"Vauxhall Energising Britain Part 2 with The Independent (348371) - [ADP]","disableRefresh":true},"3560348369":{"name":"ESI | Ozone Project | Direct Campaigns | UK | 2024 |_PMP_|","disableRefresh":true},"3568366254":{"name":"INDY | PHD | AUDI Q6 Wilderness Festival | Desktop Pageshells | AUG24 (349022) - [ADP]","disableRefresh":true},"3583584205":{"name":"TUI - Back to the pool partnership (349390)","disableRefresh":true},"3584170219":{"name":"E.ON Next - Making New Energy Work partnership (349361)","disableRefresh":true},"3585426443":{"name":"Order- BA Pittsburgh (349454)","disableRefresh":true},"3623982689":{"name":"M&S PLAN A PARTNERSHIP ","disableRefresh":true},"3625067926":{"name":"Heathrow Retail Partnership 2024 (349927)","disableRefresh":true},"3630257033":{"name":"Turkiye 2024 Partnership","disableRefresh":true},"3649881354":{"name":"AMEX Partnership 2024 (350094)","disableRefresh":true},"3666804916":{"name":"CV Villas 2025 Burst 1 (350295) - [ADP]","disableRefresh":true},"3668533399":{"name":"Currys Energy Efficiency partnerships Jan-Mar 2024 (350351) - [ADP]","disableRefresh":true},"3670526307":{"name":"Put your money to work (350206)","disableRefresh":true},"3684397194":{"name":"Connor creative test 2","disableRefresh":true},"3700116457":{"name":"JET2 Q1 MOROCCO (350670)","disableRefresh":true}}},"bannedWords":["poo"],"bannedDomains":[],"trackonomicsRegex":"((648q|s7so|evyy|7eer|zfrcsk|pvxt|xovt|nqn6|pkpakz|bn5x|m4ibck|vzew|7tiv|uidg|awv4zz|8utb|5d3x|eqcm|audw|tm7559|xibx|hyyc7q|wsktbf|i108736|gqce|tm7560|aqpq|qyov|syuh|oie8|wfraqy|fdcm73|a9yw|tm7562|9pctbx|u97e|2xje|79ic8e|xuok)\\.net|(sjv|pxf)\\.io|(goto.walmart|goto.bluenile|affiliates.abebooks)\\.com|(c1\\.dealnews\\.com)|(go\\.redirectingat\\.com)|(go\\.skimresources\\.com)|(fave\\.co)|(go\\.[a-zA-Z0-9].*?\\.com(\\/?)\\?id=[0-9].+?X[0-9].+?&)|(amazon\\.[\\S]*?\\/(dp|gp)\\/[\\S]*?tag=)|(amazon\\.[\\S]*?\\/[\\S]*?\\?[\\S]*?tag=[a-zA-Z0-9-]+\\-(\\d{2}))|(\\/amzn\\.)|(\\.amazon-adsystem\\.com)|(click\\.linksynergy\\.com)|(linksynergy\\.walmart\\.com)|(anrdoezrs\\.net)|(jdoqocy\\.com)|(tqlkg\\.com)|(tkqlhce\\.com)|(kqzyfj\\.com)|(ftjcfx\\.com)|(lduhtrp\\.net)|(jqoqocy\\.com)|(Kqzfj\\.com)|(dpbolvw\\.net)|(qksrv\\.net)|(awin1\\.com)|(tradedoubler\\.com\\/click)|(pf\\.tradedoubler\\.com\\/pf\\/)|(tradedoubler.com%2Fclick%3F)|(track\\.webgains\\.com)|((ebay\\.)(?=.*\\bcampid=[\\d+])(?=.*\\bmkcid=1\\b)(?=.*\\bmkrid=[\\d+]*\\b)[\\S]*)|((ebay\\.)(?=.*\\bcampid=[\\d+])(?=.*\\bmpre=[\\d+]*\\b)(?=.*\\bpub=[\\d+]*\\b)[\\S]*)|((ebay\\.).[\\S]*(mkcid%3D)[\\S]*(mkrid%3D[0-9\\-]*)[\\S]*(%26campid%3D[0-9]*)[\\S]*)|(scripts\\.affiliatefuture\\.com\\/AFClick\\.asp)+[\\S]*(affiliateID=\\d+))","trackonomics":{"customerId":"esimedia_t58ukgmjkf95_theindependent"},"sourcepoint":{"managerId":559246},"jwplayerSiteId":"g7SpqmnK","betting":{"analytics":{"url":"https://adtech.indyadvertising.com/js/ktag.js"}},"primis":{"apiId":116835,"siteId":116835},"mantis_channels":null,"permutive":{"organizationId":"5d79bce7-5d2b-427e-a6c4-b89b6c7bf048","workspaceId":"8a36876c-0af1-446c-b4da-51399e9ee198","apiKey":"481c9017-8e56-4bf8-822e-373d16c6f47b","data":{"page":{"content":{"type":"article","mantis_channels":null,"article":{"title":"Baroque farce of a ruined heritage","description":"A beautiful cathedral in Sicily is collapsing through bureaucratic inertia. Sadly, it's a typical Italian story","channel":"life-style","section":"life-style/baroque-farce-of-a-ruined-heritage-1268246.html","subsection":"","topics":["Christian Monastery","Churches","Engineering","Rome"],"authors":["Andrew Gumbel"],"content_type":"image","status":"standard"}}}}},"topictags":["christian-monastery","churches","engineering","rome","s_life-style"],"taboola":{"sectionValues":[{"category":"All","pageType":"homepage","mode":"thumbs-feed-hero-1sc-6sc-esi-inde","container":"taboola-ms-hero","placement":"MS Hero","target_type":"mix"},{"category":"All","pageType":"category","mode":"thumbs-feed-hero-1sc-6sc-esi-inde","container":"taboola-ms-hero","placement":"MS Hero","target_type":"mix"},{"category":"Sport","pageType":"category","mode":"thumbs-feed-hero-1sc-6sc-esi-inde","container":"taboola-below-category-sport","placement":"Below Category Sport","target_type":"mix"},{"category":"Culture","pageType":"category","mode":"thumbs-feed-hero-1sc-6sc-esi-inde","container":"taboola-below-category-culture","placement":"Below Category Culture","target_type":"mix"},{"category":"Asia","pageType":"category","mode":"thumbs-feed-hero-1sc-6sc-esi-inde","container":"taboola-below-category-asia","placement":"Below Category Asia","target_type":"mix"}],"accountIds":{"base":1036135},"publisherId":"eslmedia-theindependent","publisherIdIndyBest":"esimedia-indybest","ampBelowArticleMode":"thumbnails-e1","pageType":"article"},"gtm":{"containerId":"GTM-5XT7NPD"},"cmp":{"enabled":false},"braze":{"restAPIKey":"95fde924-43dd-4931-b180-e2a50f2bd8e8","sdkAPIKey":"64a95b8b-e28a-433a-a891-c7a3c398557f","sdkEndpoint":"sdk.fra-02.braze.eu","confirmationEmailCampaignId":"65c44e0a-46ab-d97c-dcff-33ffc6f15eb9","confirmationEmailCampaignIdUS":"d7e64c1c-212b-e7c9-992e-16df26d9c33d","registrationEmailCampaignId":"3224e581-1a43-e119-083a-3e406df2daff","registrationEmailCampaignIdUS":"4a94f1fb-e2da-3db8-d4d7-30f94ec068f1","brazeSdkDelayAmount":5000},"cseId":"006663403660930254993:oxhge2zf1ro","chartbeat":{"uid":"62356","domain":"independent.co.uk","title":"Baroque farce of a ruined heritage","sections":"mediatype_image,article-typenon-premium,,life-style,topic-christian-monastery,topic-churches,topic-engineering,topic-rome","authors":"Andrew Gumbel"},"videoAdUnitPath":"/71347885/_main_independent/in_life-style/in_main/video/hero_player","article":{"title":"Baroque farce of a ruined heritage","premium":false,"sections":["Lifestyle"],"authors":[{"name":"Andrew Gumbel","id":111293,"changed":"1695562801","remoteId":"95811","email":null,"firstName":null,"lastName":null,"jobTitle":null,"imageUrl":"","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"location":null,"path":"/author/andrew-gumbel","description":null,"firstLetter":"a","bundle":"author"}],"hierarchy":[{"name":"Lifestyle","path":"/life-style","id":1515,"uuid":"08fcfb79-efbd-4b58-b189-36d59a5df169","sourceId":"13191","sourceName":"Lifestyle","sourcePath":"life-style","changed":"1724867641","firstLetter":"l","hierarchy":[{"name":"Independent","id":"45"}],"hierarchicalName":"Lifestyle","bundle":"section"}],"publish":"1997-04-19T23:02:00Z","isArticlePreview":false,"sectionCategory":[{"name":"Lifestyle","path":"/life-style","id":1515,"uuid":"08fcfb79-efbd-4b58-b189-36d59a5df169","sourceId":"13191","sourceName":"Lifestyle","sourcePath":"life-style","changed":"1724867641","firstLetter":"l","hierarchy":[{"name":"Independent","id":"45"}],"hierarchicalName":"Lifestyle","bundle":"section","siteSection":"site home/life style","deep":2}],"siteSections":[["site home"],["life style"]],"isInfact":false,"isFeature":false,"isCommercial":false,"isService":false,"isFullWidth":false,"isReview":false,"isProduct":false,"isNews":true,"isLuxury":false,"isBest":false,"topics":[{"name":"Christian Monastery","path":"/topic/christian-monastery","id":38973,"uuid":"5711808d-0996-44f4-8e8a-89f1c5d0b1b0","changed":"1695657001","firstLetter":"c","bundle":"topic"},{"name":"Churches","path":"/topic/churches","id":12247,"uuid":"fb9bd319-e6a3-421f-84ad-12cc9053f384","changed":"1724679841","firstLetter":"c","bundle":"topic"},{"name":"Engineering","path":"/topic/engineering","id":28108,"uuid":"1695b738-eae0-424c-a659-2e33b800a2ad","changed":"1724820662","firstLetter":"e","bundle":"topic"},{"name":"Rome","path":"/topic/rome","id":3502,"uuid":"f3176e7b-e4c6-4114-8ddf-e2461bea3610","changed":"1724863441","firstLetter":"r","bundle":"topic"}],"heroType":"image","newsletterKey":"receiveindylifestyle","sensitive":false},"products":{"stickySummary":true},"isLiveBlog":false,"isCommercial":false,"isSection":false,"dotmetrics":{"sectionId":6665},"recaptureV3Key":"6LdQFKQUAAAAAALh9h5ypRL_GV19zbD4ZtAmj-pm","piano":{"pianoEndpoint":"https://api.tinypass.com/api/v3","pianoAppId":"SEz5CAOYyJ","pianoProductId":"zxss33hpk296","pianoSiteId":"1134082880659765068","pianoSitePrefix":"euo","pkceLoginEndpoint":"https://api.piano.io/id/api/v1/identity/login/code"},"addUnitId":"","pageType":"image","pageId":"1268246","sections":[{"name":"Lifestyle","path":"/life-style","id":1515,"uuid":"08fcfb79-efbd-4b58-b189-36d59a5df169","sourceId":"13191","sourceName":"Lifestyle","sourcePath":"life-style","changed":"1724867641","firstLetter":"l","hierarchy":[{"name":"Independent","id":"45"}],"hierarchicalName":"Lifestyle","bundle":"section"}]}</script><script src="/_build/react-archipelago.e1bab51f7d0e28ff2165.js"></script><script src="/_build/react-components-base.dfbcd20e697813f8df3b.js"></script><script defer src="/_build/react-components-article.8dfcf99de4cd73b321cf.js"></script><noscript><iframe src="https://www.googletagmanager.com/ns.html?id=GTM-5XT7NPD" height="0" width="0" class="sc-lt6hli-0 ejbrpC"></iframe></noscript><script src="https://securepubads.g.doubleclick.net/tag/js/gpt.js"></script><script src="/js/adobe.raw.js"></script> <script defer src="/_build/main.2fe6374f185843019008.js"></script><script defer src="/_build/init_register_wall.e98a10cd9837490d02e6.js"></script><script defer src="/_build/init-piano.8a52f604e6ba1148f0c5.js"></script> </body> </html>