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The main Cuillin ridge is also called the '''Black Cuillin'''<ref name="munros"/> to distinguish it from the '''Red Cuillin''' (''{{lang|gd|na Beanntan Dearga}}''), which lie to the east of Glen Sligachan.<ref name=grahams>R. Anderson & Tom Prentice. ''The Grahams & The Donalds - Scottish Mountaineering Club Hillwalkers' Guide'', pp. 304–309. Published 2015.</ref> The peaks of the Black Cuillin are mainly composed of [[gabbro]], a very rough [[igneous rock]] which provides a superb grip for [[mountaineering|mountaineers]]; and [[basalt]], which can be very slippery when wet.<ref name=munros>D. Bennet & R. Anderson. ''The Munros: Scottish Mountaineering Club Hillwalkers Guide'', pp. 258–275. Published 2016.</ref> The rocks forming the ridge of the Black Cuillin (and outliers such [[Blà Bheinn]]) are dark, particularly in the shade, but when in sunlight the Black Cuillin can appear grey to brown.<ref name="nsa-review"/> The main ridge forms a narrow crest, with steep cliffs and [[scree]] slopes.<ref name="JNCC"/> The ridge is about {{convert|14|km|mi|frac=2|abbr=off}} long (from Gars-bheinn in the south to [[Sgùrr nan Gillean]] in the northeast), and curves in an irregular semi-circle around [[Loch Coruisk]], which lies at the heart of the range.<ref name=sheet32>[[Ordnance Survey]] Landranger 1:50000, Sheet 32</ref><ref name=JNCC>{{cite web |url=http://jncc.defra.gov.uk/default.aspx?page=1890 |title=SPA description for Cuillins |publisher=Joint Nature Conservation Committee |year=2011 |access-date=21 February 2018}}</ref> The highest point of the Cuillin, and of the Isle of Skye, is [[Sgùrr Alasdair]] in the Black Cuillin at {{cvt|992|m}}.<ref name="munros"/> The Red Cuillin are mainly composed of [[granite]], which is paler than the gabbro (with a reddish tinge from some angles in some lights) and has weathered into more rounded hills with vegetation cover to summit level and long scree slopes on their flanks. These hills are lower and, being less rocky, have fewer scrambles or climbs.<ref name="nsa-review"/> The highest point of the red hills is [[Glamaig]] at {{cvt|775|m}}, one of only two [[Corbett (hill)|Corbetts]] on Skye (the other being Garbh-bheinn, part of the small group of gabbro outliers surrounding Blà Bheinn).<ref name=corbetts>R. Milne & H Brown. ''The Corbetts and Other Scottish Hills - Scottish Mountaineering Club Hillwalkers' Guide'', pp. 262–263. Published 2002.</ref> The scenic beauty of the Cuillin has led to it being designated a [[national scenic area (Scotland)|national scenic area]],<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.gov.scot/Resource/Doc/921/0109886.pdf |title=Map: Cuillin Hills National Scenic Area |publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage |date=20 December 2010 |access-date=21 February 2018}}</ref> one of forty such areas in Scotland.<ref name="National Scenic Areas">{{cite web |url=https://www.nature.scot/professional-advice/safeguarding-protected-areas-and-species/protected-areas/national-designations/national-scenic-areas/ |title=National Scenic Areas |publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage |access-date=17 January 2018}}</ref> A [[NatureScot|Scottish Natural Heritage]] review of the special qualities of the Cuillin stated: {{Blockquote|The mountains rise up dramatically from the sea creating formidable, enclosed sea lochs, with the absence of foothills enhancing their vast scale. Many iconic views of Scotland are centred here, whether Sgurr nan Gillean soaring above Sligachan, Loch Scavaig and the Cuillin ridge from Elgol, or Bla Bheinn above Torrin.|Scottish Natural Heritage<ref name="nsa-review"/>}} ==Etymology== [[File:Isle of Skye UK relief location map labels.jpg|alt=A map of Skye and the surrounding islands|thumb|upright=1.2|Skye and the surrounding islands, showing the location of the Cuillin.]] There are several theories about the derivation of the name 'Cuillin'. One suggestion is that it comes from the [[Old Norse]] word ''kjölen'', which literally means the [[keel]] of a boat, suggesting a similarity with an upturned [[Viking]] [[longship]]. Peter Drummond, in ''Scottish Hill and Mountain Names'' (1991), noted that this is also a name of the [[Scandinavian Mountains]] and says it can mean 'high rocky mountain'.<ref name="Drummond">{{cite book |last1=Drummond |first1=Peter |title=Scottish Hill and Mountain Names |year=1991 |publisher=Scottish Mountaineering Trust |pages=3, 54–55}}</ref> Drummond later considered the [[Irish language|Irish]] placename element ''cuilleann'', meaning 'a steep slope', which is found in mountain names such as [[Slieve Gullion]]. However, he pointed out that the element is rare, and that most mountain names around Skye come from Norse.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Drummond |first1=Peter |title=Scottish Hill-Names - The Irish Connection |journal=[[Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal]] |date=1997 |volume=36 |issue=188 |page=276 |url=https://simrich.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/SMCJ/Number%20188%20-%20Vol%2036%20-%201997%20Reduced.pdf}}</ref> Another suggestion is that it comes from [[Scottish Gaelic|Gaelic]] ''cuilionn'', meaning '[[holly]]', because of the mountains' jagged shape.<ref name="Drummond"/> The name has also been linked to [[Irish mythology|Gaelic mythology]], with the hills being the place where [[Cú Chulainn|Cúchullin]] learnt [[archery]] from the female warrior [[Scáthach]].<ref name=nsa-review>{{cite web |url=https://www.nature.scot/sites/default/files/2017-07/Publication%202010%20-%20SNH%20Commissioned%20Report%20374%20-%20The%20Special%20Qualities%20of%20the%20National%20Scenic%20Areas.pdf |title=The special qualities of the National Scenic Areas. Scottish Natural Heritage Commissioned Report No.374 |publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage |year=2010 |access-date=14 February 2018}}</ref> ==Natural history== The Cuillin are a diverse and complex geological landscape, and there is a clear distinction visible between the two mountain types.<ref name="nsa-review"/> The mountains formed from the remains of the [[Caldera|magma chambers]] which fed volcanic eruptions.<ref name=snh-geology>{{cite web |url=http://www.snh.org.uk/publications/on-line/geology/skye/roots.asp |title=The Roots of Volcanoes - Scottish Natural Heritage online |publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage |access-date=22 February 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180223050636/http://www.snh.org.uk/publications/on-line/geology/skye/roots.asp |archive-date=23 February 2018 |url-status=dead}}</ref> In the Black Cuillin the rocks cooled to form [[gabbro]], the coarse-grained rock that makes up much of the range. Cracks and fissures in the rock provided pathways for later [[magma]] intrusions, leading to [[dike (geology)|dykes]] of [[basalt]] which are commonly seen across Skye.<ref name="snh-geology"/> The Red Cuillin also have volcanic origins, being formed from a later intrusion of acidic, [[granite|granitic]] rock.<ref name="nsa-review"/> This granite was more uniformly eroded by wind and water than the gabbro and basalt, causing the red hills to have smoother outlines.<ref name="snh-geology"/> The Cuillin provide classic examples of [[Glacial period|glacial]] topography and were the subject of an early published account by [[James David Forbes|James Forbes]] in 1846 (who had become a fellow of the [[Royal Society of Edinburgh]] aged only nineteen).<ref>{{cite EB1911|wstitle=Forbes, James David |volume=10 |page=638}}</ref><ref>Forbes, James D. (1846) ''Notes on the topography and geology of Cuchullin Hills in Skye, and on traces of ancient glaciers which they present''. Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal No. 40. Pages 76–99.</ref> He partnered [[Louis Agassiz]] on his trip to Scotland in 1840 and although they subsequently argued, Forbes went on to publish other important papers on Alpine glaciers.<ref>Forbes, James D. (1846) ''On the Viscous Theory of Glacier Motion'' Abstracts of the Papers Communicated to the Royal Society of London, Vol. 5, 1843–1850. pp. 595–596.</ref> In 1904 [[Alfred Harker]] published ''The Tertiary Igneous Rocks of Skye'', the first detailed scientific study of an extinct volcano.<ref>McKirdy ''et al.'' (2007) pages 164–5 and 280.</ref><ref>Harker, Alfred, (1904) ''The Tertiary Igneous Rocks of Skye''. Geological Survey of Scotland Memoir.</ref> The Cuillin encompasses a wide range of habitats, changing with altitude. At the base there are [[conifer]] plantations, coastal [[woodland]]s and areas of [[Calluna|heather]] [[moorland]] and rough grassland. The lower slopes are covered by various different types of bog, with grassland on the better-drained slopes that are found above {{cvt|400|m}}. Higher up, the rocky hills are largely bare, with exposed rock and scree.<ref name="JNCC"/> The entire area is designated as a [[Special Protection Area]] under the [[Natura 2000]] programme due particularly for its importance to [[golden eagle]]s. The site is of European importance for these birds, and holds one of the highest-density populations in Britain, having an unusually high breeding productivity.<ref name="JNCC"/> Eleven pairs were estimated in 1992; this representing about 3% of the breeding population in Great Britain at that time.<ref name="JNCC"/> The Cuillin are protected as a [[national scenic area (Scotland)|national scenic area]], defined so as to identify areas of exceptional scenery and to ensure its protection from inappropriate development.<ref name="National Scenic Areas"/> The areas protected by the designation are considered to represent the type of scenic beauty "popularly associated with Scotland and for which it is renowned".<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.gov.scot/Topics/Environment/Countryside/Heritage/Areas |title=Countryside and Landscape in Scotland - National Scenic Areas |publisher=Scottish Government |date=4 July 2017 |access-date=31 January 2018 |archive-date=31 January 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180131201226/http://www.gov.scot/Topics/Environment/Countryside/Heritage/Areas |url-status=dead}}</ref> The ''Cuillin Hills National Scenic Area'' covers {{convert|27,320|ha}}, of which {{cvt|22,726|ha}} is on land, with a further {{cvt|4594|ha}} being marine (i.e. below [[Mean low water spring|low tide level]]).<ref name=nsa-area>{{cite web |url=http://www.gov.scot/Topics/Environment/Countryside/Heritage/Areas/maps |title=National Scenic Areas - Maps |publisher=SNH |date=20 December 2010 |access-date=27 March 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180612140337/http://www.gov.scot/Topics/Environment/Countryside/Heritage/Areas/maps |archive-date=12 June 2018 |url-status=dead}}</ref> ==History== [[File:Isle Of Skye A863 The Cuillins.jpg|thumb|350px|right|Views of the Cuillin Mountains on the [[A863 road|A863]] towards [[Sligachan]] on the Isle of [[Skye]], Scotland.]] {{See also|Skye#History}} Due to the rocky nature of the Cuillin they have historically been of little use for agriculture: this contrasts with the majority of the highlands, where the hills were used to provide [[transhumance|seasonal grazing]] for [[cattle]] and [[sheep]]. Despite the lack of earlier human presence in the hills themselves, there is much evidence of historic settlement in the surrounding glens, with prehistoric hut circles found in Glenbrittle,<ref>{{Canmore|num=11238|desc=Skye, Glen Brittle|access-date=27 February 2018}}</ref> and a [[stone circle]] identified in Glen Sligachan.<ref>{{Canmore|num=150648|desc=Skye, River Sligachan|fewer-links=yes|access-date=27 February 2018}}</ref> [[Rubha an Dùnain]], an uninhabited peninsula to the south of the main ridge, has a variety of archaeological sites dating from the [[Neolithic]] onwards. There is a 2nd or 3rd millennium BC [[chambered cairn]], an [[Iron Age]] promontory fort and the remains of another prehistoric settlement dating from the [[Bronze Age]] nearby. Loch na h-Airde on the peninsula is linked to the sea by an artificial "Viking" canal that may date from the later period of [[Norsemen|Norse]] settlement.<ref>[http://www.arcl.ed.ac.uk/arch/annrept/skyesurv.htm "Skye survey"] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110928060223/http://www.arcl.ed.ac.uk/arch/annrept/skyesurv.htm |date=28 September 2011}}. University of Edinburgh. Retrieved 15 March 2008.</ref><ref>{{Canmore|num=11028|desc=Skye, Rubh' An Dunain, 'Viking Canal'|fewer-links=yes|access-date=3 January 2013}}</ref> The Norse held sway throughout the Hebrides from the 9th century until after the [[Treaty of Perth]] in 1266. In the post–Norse period the most powerful clans on Skye were [[Clan MacLeod]], originally based in [[Trotternish]], and [[Clan Macdonald of Sleat]]. Following the disintegration of the [[Lord of the Isles|Lordship of the Isles]], the Mackinnons also emerged as an independent clan, whose substantial landholdings in Skye were centred on Strathaird.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.mackinnon.org/mackinnon-short-history.html#Beginnings |title=The Clan Mackinnon: a short history |last=Mackinnon |first=C. R. |year=1958 |access-date=30 April 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100527071109/http://www.mackinnon.org/mackinnon-short-history.html |archive-date=27 May 2010}}</ref> The MacDonalds and the MacLeods were bitter rivals, and two major battles of this period were fought between the clans at Harta Corrie and Coire Na Creich in the Cuillin: *In 1395 a force of [[clan MacDonald|MacDonald]] clansmen landed at Loch Eynort, and headed north along Glen Sligachan, intending to invade [[Clan MacLeod|MacLeod]] land.<ref>T. Marsh. ''The Isle of Skye'', p. 170. Published 2012.</ref> They were met by a force of MacLeods at Harta Corrie, below [[Sgùrr nan Gillean]] at the head of Glen Sligachan.<ref name="RCAHMS-2">{{Canmore|num=11235|desc=Skye, Bloody Stone, Harta Corrie|fewer-links=yes|access-date=26 February 2018}}</ref> The battle was a victory for the MacDonalds, who "fought the entire day till not one Macleod was left, and the bodies of the slain were piled round the base of a huge rock, topped by a [[Rowan]] tree and still called the 'Bloody Stone'" according to [[Mary Ethel Muir Donaldson|MEM Donaldson]].<ref>MEM Donaldson. ''Wanderings in the Western Highlands and Islands'', Revision. 2nd. Paisley. p. 147 RCAHMS Shelf Number: D.6.DON</ref> *The [[Battle of Coire Na Creiche]], the last [[Scottish clan]] battle fought on Skye, was fought on the slopes below [[Bruach na Frìthe]], near the head of [[Glenbrittle]] in 1601. The MacDonalds of Sleat defeated the MacLeods after a bitter feud.<ref name="RCAHMS-1">{{Canmore|num=11233|desc=Skye, Coire Na Creiche|fewer-links=yes|access-date=11 November 2021}}</ref> [[James Boswell|Boswell]] and [[Samuel Johnson|Johnson]] visited Skye during their [[A Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland|tour of the Western Isles]] in 1773, and observed snow falling on the summits of the range in September.<ref name=b&j>S. Johnson & J. Boswell (ed. R. Black). ''To the Hebrides: "Journey to the Western Isles of Scotland" and "Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides"'', pp. 257–258. Published by Birlinn, 2007.</ref> Boswell described the Cuillin as "a prodigious range of mountains, capped with rocks like pinnacles in a strange variety of shapes".<ref name="b&j"/> Uniquely for a group of Scottish mountains there are no records of the majority of the Cuillin summits having been climbed prior to the start of [[mountaineering]] as a leisure activity in the [[Victorian era]],<ref name=mitchell>Ian R Mitchell, ''Scotland's Mountains Before the Mountaineers'', p. 159. Published 2013, Luath Press.</ref> a situation reflected in the fact that around half the summits had no recorded name prior to this period, although names for corries and other features were in existence.<ref name=mitchell2>Ian R Mitchell. ''Scotland's Mountains Before the Mountaineers'', p. 171. Published 2013, Luath Press.</ref> Many of the summits are thus named after early climbers such as [[John MacKenzie (mountain guide)|John MacKenzie]] ([[Sgùrr MhicChoinnich]]), [[Alexander Nicolson]] ([[Sgùrr Alasdair]]), and [[J. Norman Collie|Norman Collie]] (Sgùrr Thormaid).<ref name="munros"/> ===Ownership=== The Cuillin now consists of two estates divided by Glen Sligachan.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.whoownsscotland.org.uk/geo/index.htm#zoom=11&lat=57.24719&lon=-5.96644&layers=B0TT |title=Map Search |publisher=Who Owns Scotland |access-date=21 February 2018 |archive-date=7 March 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180307193717/http://whoownsscotland.org.uk/geo/index.htm#zoom=11&lat=57.24719&lon=-5.96644&layers=B0TT |url-status=dead}}</ref> The hills on the west side of Glen Sligachan (the Black Cuillin) remained the property of Clan MacLeod despite the long history of conflict between them and Clan MacDonald. The earliest formal record of MacLeod ownership was in a land grant from [[the Crown]] in 1611.<ref name=scotsman2017>{{cite web |url=https://www.scotsman.com/lifestyle/when-the-black-cuillin-mountains-went-on-the-market-for-10m-1-4585259 |title=When the Black Cuillin mountains went on the market for £10m |publisher=[[The Scotsman]] |date=12 October 2017 |access-date=20 February 2018}}</ref> In 2000 the Cuillin were put on sale for £10&nbsp;million by the clan chief, [[John MacLeod of MacLeod]], in a scheme of land in exchange for repairs to [[Dunvegan Castle]],<ref name=autogenerated1>{{cite web |url=http://news.scotsman.com/cuillinhills/Black-Cuillin-may-be-gifted.2526927.jp |title=Black Cuillin may be gifted to nation in clan castle deal |work=[[The Scotsman]] |date=8 May 2004 |access-date=30 April 2012}}</ref> however there was a dispute over ownership, as opponents of the sale argued that the charter referred to the MacLeod's Tables which stand across the loch from Dunvegan Castle and not to the Cuillin themselves. A deal was cut for the property to be gifted in return for repairs to the clan castle,<ref name="autogenerated1"/> although it later fell through, with opponents arguing that the cost was out of proportion compared to other equivalent land sales.<ref name="scotsman2017"/> Following the death of John MacLeod in 2007 his successor, [[Hugh Magnus MacLeod of MacLeod]], found alternative funding sources, and as of 2017 ownership of the main range remains in the MacLeod family.<ref name="scotsman2017"/> The ''[[Strathaird]], [[Torrin]] and [[Sconser]] Estate'' lies on the eastern side of Glen Sligachan, encompassing the Red Cuillin and [[Bla Bheinn]]: it is owned by the [[John Muir Trust]],<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.johnmuirtrust.org/assets/000/000/195/v746-aw-02-skye-sm_lr_original.pdf?1432221438 |title=Introducing Sconser, Strathaird and, Torrin |publisher=John Muir Trust |year=2012 |access-date=21 February 2018}}</ref> a charity that seeks to protect and enhance wild places.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.johnmuirtrust.org/ |title=Homepage |publisher=John Muir Trust |access-date=21 February 2018}}</ref> Strathaird Estate was formerly owned by musician [[Ian Anderson]], the frontman for [[Jethro Tull (band)|Jethro Tull]], who sold the estate to the trust in 1994, for around £750,000.<ref>{{cite news |title=Pop singer sells Skye estate to trust |author=Elizabeth Buie |url=http://www.heraldscotland.com/sport/spl/aberdeen/pop-singer-sells-skye-estate-to-trust-1.477052 |newspaper=[[The Herald (Glasgow)|The Herald]] |access-date=22 February 2011}}</ref> ==Climbing and hillwalking== [[File:main ridge of the cuillin in skye arp.jpg|thumb|300px|The main ridge]] The summits of the Cuillin are bare rock, jagged in outline and with steep cliffs and deep cut [[cirque|corries]] and gullies. Twelve Black Cuillin peaks are listed as [[Munros]], though one of them, [[Blaven]], is part of a group of outliers separated from the main ridge by Glen Sligachan.<ref name="munros"/> The [[scrambling|scrambler]] can access most of the individual peaks by their easiest routes. Only the [[Sgùrr Dearg#The Inaccessible Pinnacle|Inaccessible Pinnacle]] is a [[grade (climbing)|graded]] rock climb (Moderate) by its simplest line but several of the other summits require scrambling skills. Navigation on the ridge is difficult due to jagged terrain and magnetic abnormalities that make compass reading unreliable.<ref name="munros"/> The majority of scramblers heading on to the Black Cuillin do so via routes from Glenbrittle (where there is a campsite and a [[youth hostel]]) or Sligachan for the northern peaks: due to the remoteness of Loch Coruisk, which can only be reached by boat or a {{circa}} {{cvt|10|km}} walk from [[Elgol]], routes starting from this side are less frequented.<ref name="munros"/> {{ImageAnnotations|inline=show |thumb=show |shared=show }} [[File:Cuillin ridgs, Scotland, sketch map.svg|thumb|300px|Sketch map of main Black Cuillin ridge]] In addition to climbing individual peaks, there is the challenge of a full [[traverse (climbing)#In mountaineering|mountain traverse]] of the main Black Cuillin ridge. Although only {{cvt|7|mi|km|order=flip}} in length, the average traverse is likely to take 15–20 hours from sea level at [[Glenbrittle]] to the bar of the [[Sligachan]] Hotel, owing to the difficulty of the terrain and route-finding problems. The first recorded traverse in under 24 hours was on 10 June 1911 by Leslie Shadbolt and Alastair C. McLaren, in 12 hours 18 minutes top to top<ref>{{cite book |author=Calum Smith |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-FnxDwAAQBAJ |title=The Black Cuillin: The Story of Skye's Mountains |page=179 |publisher=Rymour Books |year=2020 |isbn=9780954070441}}</ref> (16.75 hours in total<ref>{{cite journal |author=H. E. L. Porter|title=Leslie Garnet Shadbolt (1883–1973) |journal=[[Alpine Journal]] |volume=|pages=284–85 |year=1974 |url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1974_files/AJ%201974%20279-286%20In%20Memoriam.pdf}}</ref>). The record for the full traverse, set by [[Finlay Wild]] in October 2013, stands at 2 hours, 59 minutes and 22 seconds<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68413 |title=Finlay Wild Breaks Cuillin Record - Again}}</ref> (though this time is from Gars-bheinn to [[Sgùrr nan Gillean]] and does not include the initial ascent from [[Glenbrittle]] or the final descent to Sligachan).<ref>Colin Wells, [http://www.sundayherald.com/sport/nationalsport/display.var.1429069.0.running_in_heaven.php Running in Heaven] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070930031706/http://www.sundayherald.com/sport/nationalsport/display.var.1429069.0.running_in_heaven.php |date=30 September 2007}}. ''Sunday Herald'' (accessed 14 June 2007).</ref> A further issue for those attempting the full traverse is the fact that there are no natural sources of water on the ridge (except for winter snows and melt water), although there are a few high burns just off the main ridge from which water can be obtained.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/how-to-scramble-the-cuillin-ridge |title=How to scramble: the Cuillin Ridge |publisher=The BMC |date=4 August 2015 |access-date=28 February 2018}}</ref> Some believe the ultimate mountaineering experience of the UK is the full traverse of the Cuillin Ridge, especially under winter conditions.<ref>{{cite web |last=Begley |first=Alastair |title=A Winter Cuillin Traverse |url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6139 |website=ukclimbing.com |access-date=19 March 2016 |date=February 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |last=Lates |first=Mark |title=The Cuillin Ridge: Tips for success by Mike Lates |url=http://skyeguides.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/2007_Ridge_Download.pdf |website=skyeguides.co.uk |access-date=19 March 2016}}</ref> The Isle of Skye's position in the warm [[Gulf Stream]] makes genuine winter conditions rare, and the very short winter days probably make a 24-hour traverse impractical. The first recorded, over two days, was in 1965 by D. Crabbe, B. Robertson, [[Tom Patey|T. Patey]] and [[Hamish MacInnes|H. MacInnes]].<ref>{{cite journal | title = The first Winter Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge | journal =Scottish Mountaineeering Club Journal| date= 1965| first =Tom | last = Patey | volume =#28 | issue= 156 | pages= 69-86 | access-date = 26 June 2024 |url = https://simrich.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/SMCJ/Number%20156%20-%20Vol%2028%20-%20May%201965_Reduced.pdf }}</ref> A longer challenge, known as the "Greater Traverse" includes all the Skye Munros, though omitting some gabbro outliers: this involves continuing on to [[Clach Glas]] and [[Blaven]] totalling some {{cvt|20|km}} distance and {{cvt|4000|m}} ascent. This traverse was first done independently by two parties, in the summer of 1939, with I. Charleson and W. Forde claiming precedence over W. H. Murray & R. G. Donaldon a few weeks later (see [[W. H. Murray]]'s book<ref>{{cite book | title = Mountaineering in Scotland | date=1947| first = William H| last = Murray |publisher =J.M.Dent and Sons Ltd |pages=148-167 | access-date = 27 June 2024 | url =https://archive.org/details/mountaineeringin00murr/page/148/mode/2up?q=%22the+cuillin+ridge+and+blaven%22 }}</ref> for details of his traverse).<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=Trendall |first=Adrian |title=Skye's Cullin Ridge Traverse |publisher=Cicerone |year=2020 |isbn=978-1-78631-043-9 |pages=53–5}}</ref> Extending the Greater Traverse even further is the Cullin Round. This takes in most of the major peaks of the Black and Red Cullin, totalling {{cvt|54|km}}, {{cvt|7000|m}} ascent and 12 Munros. The fastest time of 16 hours 46 minutes was set by Mark Shaw in 2002.<ref name=":0" /> The Trans Cullin Challenge is yet to be completed in under 24 hours. It is an east-west traverse of every Cullin top between Gars-bheinn and [[Beinn na Caillich (Red Hills)|Beinn na Caillich]], totalling some {{cvt|61|km}}, {{cvt|9000|m}} ascent and 70 tops.<ref name=":0" /> ===List of summits=== The list below shows all the [[Munro]]s, [[Corbett (hill)|Corbetts]] and [[Graham (hill)|Grahams]] of the Cuillin. It, therefore, excludes peaks such as [[Clach Glas]], which do not meet the criteria for these hill listings. {| class="wikitable" |- ! Summit !! Range !! Classification !! Absolute height (m)!! [[Relative height]] (m)!! Grade of easiest route !! Easiest route(s) |- | [[Sgùrr nan Gillean]] || Black Cuillin || Munro || 964 || {{c.|204}} || Grade 3 scramble || South-east ridge<ref name="munros"/> |- | [[Am Basteir]] || Black Cuillin || Munro || 934 || {{c.|55}} || Grade 2 scramble || East ridge avoiding the "Broken Step" on the left<ref name="munros"/> |- | [[Bruach na Frìthe]]|| Black Cuillin || Munro || 958 || {{c.|125}} || Walk || Ascent via Fionn Choire<ref name="munros"/> |- | [[Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh]]|| Black Cuillin || Munro ||918 || {{c.|71}} || Grade 2/3 scramble || North-west or south ridges<ref name="munros"/> |- | [[Sgùrr a' Ghreadaidh]] || Black Cuillin|| Munro || 973 || {{circa|123}} || Grade 3 scramble || North ridge<ref name="munros"/> |- | [[Sgùrr na Banachdaich]]|| Black Cuillin || Munro ||965 || {{c.|114}} || Walk || Ascent via Coire nan Eich<ref name="munros"/> |- | [[Inaccessible Pinnacle]] ([[Sgùrr Dearg]])|| Black Cuillin || Munro ||986 || 182 || Moderate rock climb || East ridge of Inaccessible Pinnacle<ref name="munros"/> |- | [[Sgùrr MhicChoinnich]] || Black Cuillin || Munro || 948 || {{c.|56}} || Grade 2 scramble || North ridge<ref name="munros"/> |- | [[Sgùrr Alasdair]] || Black Cuillin|| Munro ||992 || 992 || Grade 2 scramble || North-east ridge from top of Great Stone Chute<ref name="munros"/> |- | [[Sgùrr Dubh Mòr]]|| Black Cuillin || Munro ||944 || {{c.|89}} || Grade 2 scramble || From Coir' a' Ghrunnda<ref name="munros"/> |- | [[Sgùrr nan Eag]] || Black Cuillin|| Munro ||924 || {{c.|127}} || Grade 1/2 scramble || From Coir' a' Ghrunnda<ref name="munros"/> |- | [[Blà Bheinn]] || Outlier (Blaven group) || Munro ||928 || 301 || Walk || Ascent via Coire Uaigneis<ref name="munros"/> |- | [[Garbh-bheinn_(Skye)|Garbh-bheinn]] ||Outlier (Blaven group) || Corbett || 808 || 172 || Walk || From head of Loch Ainort<ref name="corbetts"/> |- | [[Glamaig]] || Red Cuillin || Corbett || 775 || {{c.|480}} || Walk || From Sligachan<ref name="corbetts"/> |- | [[Marsco]] || Red Cuillin || Graham || 736 || 413 || Walk || From Sligachan<ref name="grahams"/> |- | [[Beinn_Dearg_Mhor_(Sligachan)|Beinn Dearg Mhòr]] ||Red Cuillin || Graham|| 731 || 152 || Walk || From Sligachan<ref name="grahams"/> |- | [[Belig]] ||Red Cuillin || Graham || 702 || 246 || Walk || From head of Loch Ainort<ref name="grahams"/> |} == Cultural references == * The Cuillin is a key thematic device in the Gaelic-language family film ''[[Seachd: The Inaccessible Pinnacle]]''.<ref>{{cite news |title=Gaelic film up for Scots BAFTAs |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/highlands_and_islands/7071116.stm |website=BBC |date=31 October 2007}}</ref> * One of [[Sorley MacLean]]'s best known poems is the epic ''{{lang|gd|An Cuillithionn}}'' ("The Cuillin").<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.scottishpoetrylibrary.org.uk/poetry/poets/sorley-maclean |title=Sorley MacLean |publisher=Scottish Poetry Library |access-date =22 February 2018}}</ref> *"{{lang|gd|'Stu Mo Leannan}}/Nightfall on [[Marsco]]" is a track on the 1981 album ''Recovery'' by the band [[Runrig]].<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.discogs.com/release/900099 |title=Runrig: Recovery |publisher=Discogs.com |access-date=22 February 2018}}</ref> * The song "[[The Road to the Isles]]" mentions the Cuillin in the first verse and in each chorus. * The murder mystery novel ''[[Wildfire at Midnight]]'' by [[Mary Stewart (novelist)|Mary Stewart]] is set in and around the Cuillin.{{citation needed|date=February 2018}} * The spy novel ''[[Mr Standfast]]'' by [[John Buchan]] has a chapter set around The Cuillin ("Coolins" in the book). * The Inaccessible Pinnacle is the scene of a death in Val McDermid's ''Trick of the Dark''.{{citation needed|date=February 2018}} * In the 2012 film [[Prometheus (2012 film)| ''Prometheus'']], archaeologists discover an ancient petroglyph star map on the Isle of Skye in the Cuillin Hills. * The 2012 film [[Brave (2012 film)|''Brave'']] contains a song which refers to a legendary bear being "bigger than a Cuillin".{{citation needed|date=February 2018}} * In Jethro Tull's song "Broadford Bazaar", reference is made to "wee plastic Cuillins".<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.songlyrics.com/jethro-tull/broadford-bazaar-lyrics/ |title=Jethro Tull - Broadford Bazaar Lyrics |website=SongLyrics |access-date=22 February 2018}}</ref> * The Black Cuillin Traverse is featured in episode 2 of ''Running Wild with [[Bear Grylls]]''.{{citation needed|date=February 2018}} * [[Mountain bike trials|Trials]] cyclist [[Danny MacAskill]], who grew up on the Isle of Skye, filmed the mountain bike edit ''The Ridge'' on the Cuillin.<ref>{{cite news |last=Merrill |first=Jamie |title=Video: Thrill-seeker Danny MacAskill takes death-defying ride along the 992-metre drop of The Cuillin Ridge |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/sport/cycling/video-stunt-bmx-rider-danny-macaskill-takes-deathdefying-ride-along-the-992metre-drop-of-the-cuillin-ridge-9770564.html |access-date=4 October 2014 |work=[[The Independent]] |date=2 October 2014}}</ref> * ''The Truth Is a Cave in the Black Mountains'', an illustrated novella by [[Neil Gaiman]] and [[Eddie Campbell]], features a legendary cave of gold in the Black Cuillin.{{citation needed|date=February 2018}} * There is a legend that the Cuillins are haunted by the ghost of an outlaw called MacRaing.<ref>{{cite book |last=Ash |first=Russell |year=1973 |title=Folklore, Myths and Legends of Britain |publisher=Reader's Digest Association Limited |page=449 |isbn=9780340165973 }}</ref> == Gallery == [[File:Black Cuillin Mountains Panorama from Blaven.jpg|thumb|690px|center|Panorama of the Black Cuillin from Blà Bheinn]] <gallery mode=packed> File:Elgol Cuillin Hills geograph-3215406-by-Ben-Brooksbank.jpg|The Black Cuillin seen from Elgol File:North Cuillin from Portree.jpg|The north Cuillin viewed from Portree File:View towards Kilbride and Bla Bheinn - geograph.org.uk - 1593951.jpg|[[Blà Bheinn]] from Loch Slapin File:The Black Cuillin.jpg|The Black Cuillin viewed from Loch Scavaig File:The Cuillin and Loch Coruisk - Flickr - Graham Grinner Lewis.jpg|[[Loch Coruisk]] in the Cuillin File:Sgurr nan gillean arp.jpg|Sgùrr nan Gillean File:Sgurr alasdair.jpg|Sgùrr Alasdair, the highest peak File:In Pin.jpg|The 'Inaccessible Pinnacle', with climbers on the summit of Sgùrr Dearg File:Marsco from Bla Bheinn - geograph.org.uk - 1771555.jpg|The Red Cuillin, with the Black Cuillin in the distance File:The Red Cuillin, Isle of Skye, Scotland 01.jpg|The Red Cuillin (Glamaig and An Coileach, Beinn Dearg Mòr, Drum na Ruaige) </gallery> == References == {{Reflist}} == External links == {{Commons category|Cuillin}} * [http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/skye/cuillin.shtml Cuillin walks guide] {{NSAs in Scotland}} {{Skye}} {{Authority control}} [[Category:Mountains and hills of the Isle of Skye]] [[Category:Volcanoes of Scotland]] [[Category:Paleogene volcanism]] [[Category:Extinct volcanoes of Europe]] [[Category:Mountain ranges of Scotland]] 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