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Oscar Schuster – Wikipedie
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vector-page-titlebar-toc vector-button-flush-left" > <input type="checkbox" id="vector-page-titlebar-toc-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-vector-page-titlebar-toc" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox " aria-label="Přepnout obsah" > <label id="vector-page-titlebar-toc-label" for="vector-page-titlebar-toc-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--icon-only " aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-listBullet mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-listBullet"></span> <span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">Přepnout obsah</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div id="vector-page-titlebar-toc-unpinned-container" class="vector-unpinned-container"> </div> </div> </div> </nav> <h1 id="firstHeading" class="firstHeading mw-first-heading"><span class="mw-page-title-main">Oscar Schuster</span></h1> <div id="p-lang-btn" class="vector-dropdown mw-portlet mw-portlet-lang" > <input type="checkbox" id="p-lang-btn-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-p-lang-btn" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox mw-interlanguage-selector" aria-label="Přejděte k článku v jiném jazyce. Je dostupný v 1 jazyce" > <label id="p-lang-btn-label" for="p-lang-btn-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet cdx-button--action-progressive mw-portlet-lang-heading-1" aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-icon mw-ui-icon-language-progressive mw-ui-icon-wikimedia-language-progressive"></span> <span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">1 jazyk</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li class="interlanguage-link interwiki-de badge-Q17437798 badge-goodarticle mw-list-item" title="dobrý článek"><a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscar_Schuster" title="Oscar Schuster – němčina" lang="de" hreflang="de" data-title="Oscar Schuster" data-language-autonym="Deutsch" data-language-local-name="němčina" class="interlanguage-link-target"><span>Deutsch</span></a></li> </ul> <div class="after-portlet after-portlet-lang"><span class="wb-langlinks-edit wb-langlinks-link"><a href="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Special:EntityPage/Q2032969#sitelinks-wikipedia" title="Editovat mezijazykové odkazy" class="wbc-editpage">Upravit odkazy</a></span></div> </div> </div> </div> </header> <div class="vector-page-toolbar"> <div class="vector-page-toolbar-container"> <div id="left-navigation"> <nav aria-label="Jmenné prostory"> <div id="p-associated-pages" class="vector-menu vector-menu-tabs mw-portlet mw-portlet-associated-pages" > <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="ca-nstab-main" class="selected vector-tab-noicon mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Oscar_Schuster" title="Zobrazit obsahovou stránku [c]" accesskey="c"><span>Článek</span></a></li><li id="ca-talk" class="new vector-tab-noicon mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Diskuse:Oscar_Schuster&action=edit&redlink=1" rel="discussion" class="new" title="Diskuse ke stránce (stránka neexistuje) [t]" accesskey="t"><span>Diskuse</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> <div id="vector-variants-dropdown" class="vector-dropdown emptyPortlet" > <input type="checkbox" id="vector-variants-dropdown-checkbox" role="button" aria-haspopup="true" data-event-name="ui.dropdown-vector-variants-dropdown" class="vector-dropdown-checkbox " aria-label="Změnit variantu jazyka" > <label id="vector-variants-dropdown-label" for="vector-variants-dropdown-checkbox" class="vector-dropdown-label cdx-button cdx-button--fake-button cdx-button--fake-button--enabled cdx-button--weight-quiet" aria-hidden="true" ><span class="vector-dropdown-label-text">čeština</span> </label> <div class="vector-dropdown-content"> <div id="p-variants" class="vector-menu mw-portlet mw-portlet-variants emptyPortlet" > <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> </ul> </div> </div> </div> </div> </nav> </div> <div id="right-navigation" class="vector-collapsible"> <nav aria-label="Zobrazení"> <div id="p-views" class="vector-menu vector-menu-tabs mw-portlet mw-portlet-views" > <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="ca-view" class="selected vector-tab-noicon mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Oscar_Schuster"><span>Číst</span></a></li><li id="ca-ve-edit" class="vector-tab-noicon mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Oscar_Schuster&veaction=edit" title="Editovat tuto stránku [v]" accesskey="v"><span>Editovat</span></a></li><li id="ca-edit" class="collapsible vector-tab-noicon mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Oscar_Schuster&action=edit" title="Editovat zdrojový kód této stránky [e]" accesskey="e"><span>Editovat zdroj</span></a></li><li id="ca-history" class="vector-tab-noicon mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Oscar_Schuster&action=history" title="Starší verze této stránky. 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vector-page-tools-pinnable-header vector-pinnable-header-unpinned" data-feature-name="page-tools-pinned" data-pinnable-element-id="vector-page-tools" data-pinned-container-id="vector-page-tools-pinned-container" data-unpinned-container-id="vector-page-tools-unpinned-container" > <div class="vector-pinnable-header-label">Nástroje</div> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-pin-button" data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-page-tools.pin">přesunout do postranního panelu</button> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-unpin-button" data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-page-tools.unpin">skrýt</button> </div> <div id="p-cactions" class="vector-menu mw-portlet mw-portlet-cactions emptyPortlet vector-has-collapsible-items" title="Další možnosti" > <div class="vector-menu-heading"> Akce </div> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="ca-more-view" class="selected vector-more-collapsible-item mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Oscar_Schuster"><span>Číst</span></a></li><li id="ca-more-ve-edit" class="vector-more-collapsible-item mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Oscar_Schuster&veaction=edit" title="Editovat tuto stránku [v]" accesskey="v"><span>Editovat</span></a></li><li id="ca-more-edit" class="collapsible vector-more-collapsible-item mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Oscar_Schuster&action=edit" title="Editovat zdrojový kód této stránky [e]" accesskey="e"><span>Editovat zdroj</span></a></li><li id="ca-more-history" class="vector-more-collapsible-item mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Oscar_Schuster&action=history"><span>Zobrazit historii</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> <div id="p-tb" class="vector-menu mw-portlet mw-portlet-tb" > <div class="vector-menu-heading"> Obecné </div> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="t-whatlinkshere" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Speci%C3%A1ln%C3%AD:Co_odkazuje_na/Oscar_Schuster" title="Seznam všech wikistránek, které sem odkazují [j]" accesskey="j"><span>Odkazuje sem</span></a></li><li id="t-recentchangeslinked" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Speci%C3%A1ln%C3%AD:Souvisej%C3%ADc%C3%AD_zm%C4%9Bny/Oscar_Schuster" rel="nofollow" title="Nedávné změny stránek, na které je odkazováno [k]" accesskey="k"><span>Související změny</span></a></li><li id="t-upload" class="mw-list-item"><a href="//commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Special:UploadWizard?uselang=cs" title="Nahrát obrázky či jiná multimédia [u]" accesskey="u"><span>Načíst soubor</span></a></li><li id="t-specialpages" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/wiki/Speci%C3%A1ln%C3%AD:Speci%C3%A1ln%C3%AD_str%C3%A1nky" title="Seznam všech speciálních stránek [q]" accesskey="q"><span>Speciální stránky</span></a></li><li id="t-permalink" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Oscar_Schuster&oldid=23230006" title="Trvalý odkaz na současnou verzi této 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class="vector-menu-heading"> Tisk/export </div> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li id="coll-create_a_book" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Speci%C3%A1ln%C3%AD:Kniha&bookcmd=book_creator&referer=Oscar+Schuster"><span>Vytvořit knihu</span></a></li><li id="coll-download-as-rl" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Speci%C3%A1ln%C3%AD:DownloadAsPdf&page=Oscar_Schuster&action=show-download-screen"><span>Stáhnout jako PDF</span></a></li><li id="t-print" class="mw-list-item"><a href="/w/index.php?title=Oscar_Schuster&printable=yes" title="Tato stránka v podobě vhodné k tisku [p]" accesskey="p"><span>Verze k tisku</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> <div id="p-wikibase-otherprojects" class="vector-menu mw-portlet mw-portlet-wikibase-otherprojects" > <div class="vector-menu-heading"> Na jiných projektech </div> <div class="vector-menu-content"> <ul class="vector-menu-content-list"> <li class="wb-otherproject-link wb-otherproject-commons mw-list-item"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Oscar_Schuster" hreflang="en"><span>Wikimedia Commons</span></a></li><li id="t-wikibase" class="wb-otherproject-link wb-otherproject-wikibase-dataitem mw-list-item"><a href="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Special:EntityPage/Q2032969" title="Odkaz na propojenou položku datového úložiště [g]" accesskey="g"><span>Položka Wikidat</span></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </nav> </div> </div> </div> <div class="vector-column-end"> <div class="vector-sticky-pinned-container"> <nav class="vector-page-tools-landmark" aria-label="Nástroje ke stránce"> <div id="vector-page-tools-pinned-container" class="vector-pinned-container"> </div> </nav> <nav class="vector-appearance-landmark" aria-label="Vzhled"> <div id="vector-appearance-pinned-container" class="vector-pinned-container"> <div id="vector-appearance" class="vector-appearance vector-pinnable-element"> <div class="vector-pinnable-header vector-appearance-pinnable-header vector-pinnable-header-pinned" data-feature-name="appearance-pinned" data-pinnable-element-id="vector-appearance" data-pinned-container-id="vector-appearance-pinned-container" data-unpinned-container-id="vector-appearance-unpinned-container" > <div class="vector-pinnable-header-label">Vzhled</div> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-pin-button" data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-appearance.pin">přesunout do postranního panelu</button> <button class="vector-pinnable-header-toggle-button vector-pinnable-header-unpin-button" data-event-name="pinnable-header.vector-appearance.unpin">skrýt</button> </div> </div> </div> </nav> </div> </div> <div id="bodyContent" class="vector-body" aria-labelledby="firstHeading" data-mw-ve-target-container> <div class="vector-body-before-content"> <div class="mw-indicators"> </div> <div id="siteSub" class="noprint">Z Wikipedie, otevřené encyklopedie</div> </div> <div id="contentSub"><div id="mw-content-subtitle"></div></div> <div id="mw-content-text" class="mw-body-content"><div class="mw-content-ltr mw-parser-output" lang="cs" dir="ltr"><table class="infobox biography vcard" style="width:22em"><tbody><tr><th colspan="2" class="fn" style="text-align:center;font-size:125%;font-weight:bold">Oscar Schuster</th></tr><tr><td colspan="2" style="text-align:center"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/wiki/Soubor:Schuster_Oskar.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/09/Schuster_Oskar.jpg/225px-Schuster_Oskar.jpg" decoding="async" width="225" height="349" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/09/Schuster_Oskar.jpg/338px-Schuster_Oskar.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/09/Schuster_Oskar.jpg 2x" data-file-width="350" data-file-height="543" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" style="text-align:left">Narození</th><td><span class="wd"><a href="/wiki/1._%C5%99%C3%ADjen" title="1. říjen">1. října</a> <a href="/wiki/1873" title="1873">1873</a></span><br /><span class="wd"><a href="/wiki/Markneukirchen" title="Markneukirchen">Markneukirchen</a></span></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" style="text-align:left">Úmrtí</th><td><span class="wd"><a href="/wiki/5._%C4%8Derven" title="5. červen">5. června</a> <a href="/wiki/1917" title="1917">1917</a> (ve věku 43 let)</span><br /><span class="wd"><a href="/wiki/Astracha%C5%88" title="Astrachaň">Astrachaň</a></span></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" style="text-align:left">Povolání</th><td class="role"><span class="wd"><a href="/wiki/L%C3%A9ka%C5%99" title="Lékař">lékař</a></span></td></tr><tr><td colspan="2" style="text-align:center"><span typeof="mw:File"><span title="Logo Wikimedia Commons"><img alt="Logo Wikimedia Commons" src="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/20px-Commons-logo.svg.png" decoding="async" width="20" height="27" class="mw-file-element" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/30px-Commons-logo.svg.png 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/40px-Commons-logo.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="1024" data-file-height="1376" /></span></span> <b><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Oscar_Schuster" class="extiw" title="c:Category:Oscar Schuster">multimediální obsah</a></b> na <a href="/wiki/Wikimedia_Commons" title="Wikimedia Commons">Commons</a></td></tr><tr><td colspan="2" style="text-align:center;font-size: smaller; white-space: nowrap;">Některá data mohou pocházet z <a href="https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q2032969" class="extiw" title="d:Q2032969">datové položky</a>.</td></tr></tbody></table> <p><b>Friedrich Christian Oscar Schuster</b> (<a href="/wiki/1._%C5%99%C3%ADjen" title="1. říjen">1. října</a> <a href="/wiki/1873" title="1873">1873</a>, <a href="/wiki/Markneukirchen" title="Markneukirchen">Markneukirchen</a> – <a href="/wiki/5._%C4%8Derven" title="5. červen">5. června</a> <a href="/wiki/1917" title="1917">1917</a>, <a href="/wiki/Astracha%C5%88" title="Astrachaň">Astrachaň</a>) byl německý <a href="/wiki/Horolezec" class="mw-redirect" title="Horolezec">horolezec</a>, který na přelomu <a href="/wiki/19._stolet%C3%AD" title="19. století">19. století</a> a <a href="/wiki/20._stolet%C3%AD" title="20. století">20. století</a> patřil mezi světovou špičku a udal v tomto sportu směr k eticky čistému lezení jen vlastní silou bez pomoci umělých pomůcek. </p><p>Poprvé lezl ve Švýcarsku v šestnácti letech. První významný výstup vedl na alpský masiv <a href="/wiki/Diavolezza" title="Diavolezza">Diavolezza</a> z <a href="/wiki/Davos" title="Davos">Davosu</a>, kde byl umístěn v sanatoriu pro neduživé chlapce. Zde se naučil horolezeckým novinkám a posléze po návratu do <a href="/wiki/Dr%C3%A1%C5%BE%C4%8Fany" title="Drážďany">Drážďan</a> zavedl do saských <a href="/wiki/P%C3%ADskovec" title="Pískovec">pískovců</a> lehké lezečky s konopnou podrážkou a vrcholové knihy. V Sasku poprvé lezl ve skalním městě <a href="/w/index.php?title=Bielatal&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Bielatal (stránka neexistuje)">Bielatal</a>. Jeho prvovýstup Alterweg II na Schusterturm odstartoval lezecké objevování obrovského množství pískovcových věží. Zároveň využil moderní lezečky ke zvláštní lezecké technice výstupu na tření (tzv. rajbas) a umístil zde první vrcholovou knihu. Pískovcovou věž pojmenoval sám po sobě. </p><p>Na saských pískovcích vylezl na 23 nových vrcholů, vykonal 45 prvovýstupů jako prvolezec a dalších 37 prvovýstupů jako druholezec. Všechny jsou dodnes velmi oblíbené mezi horolezci. Nejlezenější jsou Schusterweg na Falkenstein<sup id="cite_ref-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> obtížnosti III a Schusterweg na Talwächter<sup id="cite_ref-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> obtížnosti II. </p><p>Jeho spolulezci byli nejčastěji <a href="/w/index.php?title=Martin_Klimmer&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Martin Klimmer (stránka neexistuje)">Martin Klimmer</a> a bratři Conrad Meurer a Friedrich Meurer. </p><p>Kromě Saska lezl v Alpách, Norsku a na Kavkaze, kde uskutečnil celkem 725 horských túr. V roce <a href="/wiki/1903" title="1903">1903</a> byl členem expedice, která vylezla prvovýstup na jižní vrchol <a href="/wiki/U%C5%A1ba" title="Ušba">Ušby</a> (4710 m n. m.), což byla tehdy prvotřídní senzace v zasvěcených kruzích. </p><p>Po studiu na několika univerzitách získal roku <a href="/wiki/1901" title="1901">1901</a> titul doktora medicíny. Nikdy se však do praxe nedostal. Celý život se věnoval jen horám a skalám, protože mu to umožnil zámožný otec. Zemřel v <a href="/wiki/Astracha%C5%88" title="Astrachaň">Astrachani</a> v internačním lazaretu na <a href="/wiki/Tyfus" class="mw-disambig" title="Tyfus">tyfus</a> a <a href="/wiki/Tuberkul%C3%B3za" title="Tuberkulóza">tuberkulózu</a> na konci 1. světové války, kam se dostal v roce 1914, když ho překvapilo vypuknutí války při horolezecké expedici na <a href="/wiki/Kavkaz" title="Kavkaz">Kavkaz</a>. </p><p>Oscar Schuster jako první v roce <a href="/wiki/1904" title="1904">1904</a> popsal lezecké možnosti v saských pískovcích v článku Felsklettern in der Sächsischen Schweiz v časopise Über Berg und Thal. Na jeho základě napsal <a href="/w/index.php?title=Rudolf_Fehrmann&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Rudolf Fehrmann (stránka neexistuje)">Rudolf Fehrmann</a> první horolezecký průvodce na světě, který pod názvem Der Bergsteiger in der Sächsischen Schweiz popsal dvě stovky skalních věží a čtyři stovky výstupů. </p> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Odkazy">Odkazy</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Oscar_Schuster&veaction=edit&section=1" title="Editace sekce: Odkazy" class="mw-editsection-visualeditor"><span>editovat</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-divider"> | </span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Oscar_Schuster&action=edit&section=1" title="Editovat zdrojový kód sekce Odkazy"><span>editovat zdroj</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Reference">Reference</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Oscar_Schuster&veaction=edit&section=2" title="Editace sekce: Reference" class="mw-editsection-visualeditor"><span>editovat</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-divider"> | </span><a href="/w/index.php?title=Oscar_Schuster&action=edit&section=2" title="Editovat zdrojový kód sekce Reference"><span>editovat zdroj</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div> <div class="mw-references-wrap"><ol class="references"> <li id="cite_note-1"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><a href="#cite_ref-1">↑</a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.horydoly.cz/horolezci/schusterweg-na-falkenstein.html">Schusterweg na Falkenstein</a></span> </li> <li id="cite_note-2"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><a href="#cite_ref-2">↑</a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" 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