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})(window,document,"script","//bat.bing.com/bat.js","uetq");</script><script data-rh="true" type="application/ld+json">{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","author":{"@type":"Person","name":"Lisa Visentin"},"dateModified":"2024-11-28T18:45:00+00:00","datePublished":"2024-11-28T18:45:00+00:00","description":"On the streets of China’s financial and cosmopolitan hub, a caffeine-fuelled revolution is taking place.","headline":"Despite all the tea in China, in Shanghai, the coffee is 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href="/topic/inside-china-1n87">Inside China</a></li></ul><script type="application/ld+json">{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"BreadcrumbList","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"item":{"@id":"https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/world","name":"World"}},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"item":{"@id":"https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/world/asia","name":"Asia"}},{"@type":"ListItem","position":3,"item":{"@id":"https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/topic/inside-china-1n87","name":"Inside China"}}]}</script></div><h1 data-testid="headline" itemProp="headline">Despite all the tea in China, in Shanghai, the coffee is hot</h1></div></div></header><section class="_3OhA4"><div class="_2h56q _2bGxr"><div class="_3J1te"><h5 class="_3-xPQ"><span class="_3pGt1">By </span><span><span data-testid="byline"><a href="/by/lisa-visentin-hvez0" title="Articles by Lisa Visentin">Lisa Visentin</a></span></span></h5><div class=""> <span class="_2xetH"><time class="_2_zR-" data-testid="datetime" dateTime="2024-11-29T04:45:00+10:00">November 29, 2024 — 4.45am</time></span></div></div></div><div class="_2CSKo noPrint"><div class="_1KqZ_"><div class="hLTvJ"><button aria-checked="false" aria-describedby="saveTooltip" aria-label="Save article to read later" class="_31ZN0" role="switch" type="button"><svg aria-hidden="true" class="QMY9O _11R7m" focusable="false" height="1em" width="1em"><use xlink:href="#icon-save"></use></svg><span class="_3-fU6">Save</span></button><div aria-hidden="true" class="_1lwFz uXbxr" id="saveTooltip" role="tooltip"><button>Log in</button>, <a data-testid="login-register" href="https://brisbanetimes.myfairfax.com.au/channel/7SMsQ6jjgIqPyo9XFzdzWg/members/signups/new?callback_uri=">register</a> or <a href="https://subscribe.brisbanetimes.com.au/?promote_channel=HI_HL_GNL">subscribe</a> to save articles for later.</div><div><div aria-hidden="true" class="_1lwFz WUf_a _1pHo1" id="onboardingTooltip" role="tooltip"><h3>Save articles for later</h3><p>Add 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class="_1Rw6X" data-testid="article-body-top"><aside class="_2GZaf"><div class="_1q-_I _3sCHz"><div class="container"><div class="adWrapper _2UMq- noPrint" data-testid="ad"><small class="_3ToRr">Advertisement</small><div class="" id="adspot-160x600_300x250_300x600-pos2-desktop"></div></div></div></div></aside><div class="_1ysFk" data-testid="article-body"><div><div class="_5JLqO"><div class="_1Ld7U" id="beyondwords-player"></div><div class="_3Fhwk" data-testid="showPlayerOverlay"></div></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk" data-testid="body-content"><p><strong><em>What in the World, a free weekly newsletter from our foreign correspondents, is sent every Thursday. Below is an excerpt. <a href="/link/follow-20170101-p56l7u">Sign up to get the whole newsletter delivered to your inbox.</a></em></strong></p><p>On the streets of downtown Shanghai, a caffeine-fuelled revolution has taken place over the past decade or so, surprising first-time visitors who expect to find the city awash with, well, tea.</p><p>Let’s not exaggerate. Coffee poses no immediate threat to China’s 2000-year-old tea-drinking culture, but its consumption is steadily becoming a fixture of middle-class routines.</p><p>The average person in China drank 16.7 cups of coffee in 2023, a mighty increase on the nine cups of 2016 – but scarcely in the realm of the one-a-day (or more!) habit of most Australians.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/e557d6e4293a9887dcdf034965b0ee7e2544dfc1, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/e557d6e4293a9887dcdf034965b0ee7e2544dfc1 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/e557d6e4293a9887dcdf034965b0ee7e2544dfc1, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/e557d6e4293a9887dcdf034965b0ee7e2544dfc1 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="Maggie Li, 27, pours a flat white at Cafe del Volcan in Shanghai." src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/e557d6e4293a9887dcdf034965b0ee7e2544dfc1" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/e557d6e4293a9887dcdf034965b0ee7e2544dfc1, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/e557d6e4293a9887dcdf034965b0ee7e2544dfc1 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">Maggie Li, 27, pours a flat white at Cafe del Volcan in Shanghai.</span><cite class="ojLwA"><span class="_30ROC">Credit: </span>Sanghee Liu</cite></p></figcaption></figure></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk" data-testid="body-content"><p>These days, there are an estimated 400 million coffee drinkers across China driving what is now a $56 billion-a-year and growing industry, according to university research and government figures.</p><p>Nowhere is coffee more popular in China than in Shanghai, the country’s financial and cosmopolitan hub.</p><p>The city lays claim to having the most coffee shops in the world – 9553 to be exact, according to figures regularly cited by local officials. A good slice of these would be chain stores, but Shanghai has a pumping homegrown coffee culture too.</p><p>The vibrant, experimental heart of the city’s coffee scene is in the trendy former French concession district, where hundreds of independent cafes compete with vintage shops, boutiques, and cocktail bars for real estate in charming colonial buildings and converted old homes.</p><p>It’s a bourgeois-chic coffee culture that wouldn’t be out of place, in both aesthetic and quality, in Melbourne or Sydney’s inner suburbs.</p></div></div></div></section><div class="_1FVfK"><div class="container"><div class="adWrapper _2UMq- noPrint" data-testid="ad"><small class="_3ToRr">Advertisement</small><div class="" id="adspot-728x90_970x250-pos3-desktop"></div></div></div></div><section class="vPaWe" data-testid="article-body-bottom"><div class="_1ysFk"><div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk" data-testid="body-content"><p>Of course, where there is good coffee there is the flat white. Perhaps Australia’s most successful food export, it has been transported by Aussie expats to cafes across the globe with such gusto that it now appears organically, under its own milk steam, on menus in far-flung places.</p><p>Yet, I was still surprised by its ubiquity in Shanghai. In China, by the way, there’s no doubting the flat white’s origins. The Kiwis’ spurious claims to having invented it have no truck here.</p><p>“Ao bai”, as a flat white is called in Mandarin, is composed of two Chinese characters meaning “Australia” and “white”.</p><p>“A long time ago, when it started to become popular, everyone would know it as a coffee from Sydney or Melbourne,” says Maggie Li, 27, a barista at the expat-owned Cafe del Volcan. The cafe was one of the early arrivals on Shanghai’s coffee scene more than a decade ago and is renowned for roasting its own beans.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/f739c76c8912852c8f82319e68b39ecfd2938508, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/f739c76c8912852c8f82319e68b39ecfd2938508 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/f739c76c8912852c8f82319e68b39ecfd2938508, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/f739c76c8912852c8f82319e68b39ecfd2938508 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="Maggie Gu, 30, owner of Pushing Coffee, a hole-in-the-wall style cafe where customers drop off their dogs for the day." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/f739c76c8912852c8f82319e68b39ecfd2938508" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/f739c76c8912852c8f82319e68b39ecfd2938508, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.126%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/f739c76c8912852c8f82319e68b39ecfd2938508 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">Maggie Gu, 30, owner of Pushing Coffee, a hole-in-the-wall style cafe where customers drop off their dogs for the day.</span><cite class="ojLwA"><span class="_30ROC">Credit: </span>Sanghee Liu</cite></p></figcaption></figure></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk" data-testid="body-content"><p>Now the flat white is so common no one gives it a second thought, Li says.</p><p>“You can find it at every coffee shop,” she says.</p><p>Some of us watched in alarm as the price of a takeaway coffee smashed past $5 in Australia, but in Shanghai, at the fancier places,<strong> </strong>it can cost more than $8. This can make it more expensive to get coffee than to have lunch.</p><p>By comparison, at Luckin Coffee, China’s answer to Starbucks, a standard latte will set you back about 19 yuan ($4).</p><p>A few blocks away, a corgi stands sentinel in the open window of Pushing Cafe, sometimes joined on the sill by three or four pooch friends of varying sizes and breeds.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk" data-testid="body-content"><p>Barely more than a hole-in-the-wall, the cafe doubles as an unofficial doggy daycare where owners deposit their pets on the way to work. The dogs socialise while owner Maggie Gu works the coffee grinder and steams milk. Ginger and Osmanthus lattes are Gu’s specialty, but the drawcard is Gu herself.</p><figure class="_3ujPS _3x3-4 RMwbY _2XZQH" data-testid="image"><div aria-label="enlarge image" class="_1lwW_" role="button" tabindex="0"><picture class=""><source media="(min-width: 1024px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.173%2C$multiply_0.9788%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/119db7bd42999c0c597d50c34ed2c8e1c9e73ba1, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.173%2C$multiply_1.9577%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/119db7bd42999c0c597d50c34ed2c8e1c9e73ba1 2x" height="494" width="740"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.173%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/119db7bd42999c0c597d50c34ed2c8e1c9e73ba1, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.173%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/119db7bd42999c0c597d50c34ed2c8e1c9e73ba1 2x" height="512" width="768"/><img alt="A group of customers at Cofe+ take pictures in front of the coffee-making robot booth on Nanjing Road, the busiest shopping street in Shanghai." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.173%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/119db7bd42999c0c597d50c34ed2c8e1c9e73ba1" height="390" width="584" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.173%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/119db7bd42999c0c597d50c34ed2c8e1c9e73ba1, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.173%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/119db7bd42999c0c597d50c34ed2c8e1c9e73ba1 2x"/></picture></div><figcaption class="_3CZmy"><p><span class="_2Li3P">A group of customers at Cofe+ take pictures in front of the coffee-making robot booth on Nanjing Road, the busiest shopping street in Shanghai.</span><cite class="ojLwA"><span class="_30ROC">Credit: </span>Sanghee Liu</cite></p></figcaption></figure><p>A big, garrulous personality, she can be heard before she’s seen – usually in uproarious conversation with her cast of regulars who crowd the footpath, perched on stools and crates a whisker from the main road where taxis fly past.</p><p>“I feel Shanghai coffee culture was more rich 10 years ago, compared to today. It was a better environment for the exchange of ideas and studying techniques. Now, it has become more utilitarian,” she says.</p><p>It wouldn’t be a hipster cafe scene if the original trailblazers weren’t bemoaning the popularisation of their craft and the entry of newcomers with deeper pockets and expansion plans. But on the utilitarian claim she may have a point.</p></div><div class="_1lC_G"></div><div class="_1665V _2q-Vk" data-testid="body-content"><p>A short drive away in the famous Nanjing Road shopping strip, a new robot coffee cube called Cofe+ is churning out barista-free iced Americanos and hot cappuccinos for 9 yuan ($1.91). It claims to be the first of its kind and is a tourist drawcard. A robotic arm fetches an ice-filled cup, into which the machine shoots hot coffee and cold milk, before sealing it and delivering it via a chute to the customer.</p><p>A disconcerting glimpse into a rapidly encroaching automated future – and perfect if you prefer your coffee experience to be soulless. For me, I’ll take people and dogs any day.</p><p><b><i>Get a note directly from our foreign correspondents on what’s making headlines around the world. </i></b><a href="/link/follow-20170101-p56l7u"><b><i>Sign up for the weekly What in the World newsletter here</i></b></a><b><i>.</i></b></p></div></div><div class="noPrint"><div></div><div></div></div><div id="embedded-feedback"></div><div class="_22FRK _2spQv"><section class="aKWhn noPrint" id="endOfArticle"><div class="dLGbc"><div class="hLTvJ"><button aria-checked="false" aria-describedby="saveTooltip" aria-label="Save article to read later" class="_31ZN0" role="switch" type="button"><svg aria-hidden="true" class="QMY9O _11R7m" focusable="false" height="1em" width="1em"><use xlink:href="#icon-save"></use></svg><span class="_3-fU6">Save</span></button><div aria-hidden="true" class="_1lwFz uXbxr" id="saveTooltip" role="tooltip"><button>Log in</button>, <a data-testid="login-register" href="https://brisbanetimes.myfairfax.com.au/channel/7SMsQ6jjgIqPyo9XFzdzWg/members/signups/new?callback_uri=">register</a> or <a href="https://subscribe.brisbanetimes.com.au/?promote_channel=HI_HL_GNL">subscribe</a> to save articles for later.</div></div><div class="_8Cum8"><a class="_4oUp_" href="http://rightsportal.copyright.com.au/pages/republicationpage.aspx?author=Lisa%20Visentin&publication=BRT&publicationdate=2024-11-28T18%3A45%3A00Z&publisher=fxj&title=Despite%20all%20the%20tea%20in%20China%2C%20in%20Shanghai%2C%20the%20coffee%20is%20hot&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.brisbanetimes.com.au%2Fworld%2Fasia%2Fdespite-all-the-tea-in-china-in-shanghai-the-coffee-is-hot-20241127-p5ku4g.html">License this article</a></div><div class="ZFgNO"><ul class="_3Nz34"><li><a class="_2Tz1_" href="/topic/inside-china-1n87">Inside China</a></li><li><a class="_2Tz1_" href="/topic/coffee-le0">Coffee</a></li><li><a class="_2Tz1_" href="/topic/china-89a">China</a></li><li><a class="_2Tz1_" href="/subscriber-centre">For subscribers</a></li><li><a class="_2Tz1_" href="/topic/food---drink-hv8">Food & drink</a></li><li><a class="_2Tz1_" href="/topic/cafe-ldv">Cafe</a></li></ul></div></div></section><div class="_2Cg_3"><div class="iQMz1" hidden=""><div class="_1Oml5"><a class="_3NFLJ" title="Articles by Lisa Visentin" href="/by/lisa-visentin-hvez0">Lisa Visentin</a> is the North Asia correspondent for The Sydney Morning Herald and The Age. 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the streets of China\\u2019s financial and cosmopolitan hub, a caffeine-fuelled revolution is taking place.\",\"allowComments\":true,\"body\":\"<p><strong><em>What in the World, a free weekly newsletter from our foreign correspondents, is sent every Thursday. Below is an excerpt. <x-placeholder id=\\\"5651c0dbc9a2bc44bf7300d293433b4c8bbad09d\\\"></x-placeholder></em></strong></p><p>On the streets of downtown Shanghai, a caffeine-fuelled revolution has taken place over the past decade or so, surprising first-time visitors who expect to find the city awash with, well, tea.</p><p>Let\\u2019s not exaggerate. Coffee poses no immediate threat to China\\u2019s 2000-year-old tea-drinking culture, but its consumption is steadily becoming a fixture of middle-class routines.</p><p>The average person in China drank 16.7 cups of coffee in 2023, a mighty increase on the nine cups of 2016 \\u2013 but scarcely in the realm of the one-a-day (or more!) habit of most Australians.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"b5d1222bf78de27b9aabef73c3113f9ba20b379e\\\"></x-placeholder><p>These days, there are an estimated 400 million coffee drinkers across China driving what is now a $56 billion-a-year and growing industry, according to university research and government figures.</p><p>Nowhere is coffee more popular in China than in Shanghai, the country\\u2019s financial and cosmopolitan hub.</p><p>The city lays claim to having the most coffee shops in the world \\u2013 9553 to be exact, according to figures regularly cited by local officials. A good slice of these would be chain stores, but Shanghai has a pumping homegrown coffee culture too.</p><p>The vibrant, experimental heart of the city\\u2019s coffee scene is in the trendy former French concession district, where hundreds of independent cafes compete with vintage shops, boutiques, and cocktail bars for real estate in charming colonial buildings and converted old homes.</p><p>It\\u2019s a bourgeois-chic coffee culture that wouldn\\u2019t be out of place, in both aesthetic and quality, in Melbourne or Sydney\\u2019s inner suburbs.</p><p>Of course, where there is good coffee there is the flat white. Perhaps Australia\\u2019s most successful food export, it has been transported by Aussie expats to cafes across the globe with such gusto that it now appears organically, under its own milk steam, on menus in far-flung places.</p><p>Yet, I was still surprised by its ubiquity in Shanghai. In China, by the way, there\\u2019s no doubting the flat white\\u2019s origins. The Kiwis\\u2019 spurious claims to having invented it have no truck here.</p><p>\\u201CAo bai\\u201D, as a flat white is called in Mandarin, is composed of two Chinese characters meaning \\u201CAustralia\\u201D and \\u201Cwhite\\u201D.</p><p>\\u201CA long time ago, when it started to become popular, everyone would know it as a coffee from Sydney or Melbourne,\\u201D says Maggie Li, 27, a barista at the expat-owned Cafe del Volcan. The cafe was one of the early arrivals on Shanghai\\u2019s coffee scene more than a decade ago and is renowned for roasting its own beans.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"19be6b7448308e70d15988d8ba3889c27a6b2b45\\\"></x-placeholder><p>Now the flat white is so common no one gives it a second thought, Li says.</p><p>\\u201CYou can find it at every coffee shop,\\u201D she says.</p><p>Some of us watched in alarm as the price of a takeaway coffee smashed past $5 in Australia, but in Shanghai, at the fancier places,<strong> </strong>it can cost more than $8. This can make it more expensive to get coffee than to have lunch.</p><p>By comparison, at Luckin Coffee, China\\u2019s answer to Starbucks, a standard latte will set you back about 19 yuan ($4).</p><p>A few blocks away, a corgi stands sentinel in the open window of Pushing Cafe, sometimes joined on the sill by three or four pooch friends of varying sizes and breeds.</p><p>Barely more than a hole-in-the-wall, the cafe doubles as an unofficial doggy daycare where owners deposit their pets on the way to work. The dogs socialise while owner Maggie Gu works the coffee grinder and steams milk. Ginger and Osmanthus lattes are Gu\\u2019s specialty, but the drawcard is Gu herself.</p><x-placeholder id=\\\"59f52f96fd6f0a1d668f899645630b54a8bbd49c\\\"></x-placeholder><p>A big, garrulous personality, she can be heard before she\\u2019s seen \\u2013 usually in uproarious conversation with her cast of regulars who crowd the footpath, perched on stools and crates a whisker from the main road where taxis fly past.</p><p>\\u201CI feel Shanghai coffee culture was more rich 10 years ago, compared to today. It was a better environment for the exchange of ideas and studying techniques. Now, it has become more utilitarian,\\u201D she says.</p><p>It wouldn\\u2019t be a hipster cafe scene if the original trailblazers weren\\u2019t bemoaning the popularisation of their craft and the entry of newcomers with deeper pockets and expansion plans. But on the utilitarian claim she may have a point.</p><p>A short drive away in the famous Nanjing Road shopping strip, a new robot coffee cube called Cofe+ is churning out barista-free iced Americanos and hot cappuccinos for 9 yuan ($1.91). It claims to be the first of its kind and is a tourist drawcard. A robotic arm fetches an ice-filled cup, into which the machine shoots hot coffee and cold milk, before sealing it and delivering it via a chute to the customer.</p><p>A disconcerting glimpse into a rapidly encroaching automated future \\u2013 and perfect if you prefer your coffee experience to be soulless. For me, I\\u2019ll take people and dogs any day.</p><p><b><i>Get a note directly from our foreign correspondents on what\\u2019s making headlines around the world. </i></b><x-placeholder id=\\\"ad6ee592b241eec9c4c2dc3fe9da3647cfca0b06\\\"></x-placeholder><b><i>.</i></b></p>\",\"bodyPlaceholders\":{\"19be6b7448308e70d15988d8ba3889c27a6b2b45\":{\"data\":{\"altText\":\"\",\"animated\":false,\"aspect\":1.5,\"autoCrop\":false,\"caption\":\"Maggie Gu, 30, owner of Pushing Coffee, a hole-in-the-wall style cafe where customers drop off their dogs for the day.\",\"credit\":\"Sanghee Liu\",\"cropWidth\":756,\"fileName\":\"f739c76c8912852c8f82319e68b39ecfd2938508\",\"id\":\"f739c76c8912852c8f82319e68b39ecfd2938508\",\"mimeType\":\"image/jpeg\",\"offsetX\":0,\"offsetY\":0,\"originalHeight\":null,\"originalWidth\":null,\"source\":\"Fairfax Media\",\"zoom\":0.126},\"type\":\"image\"},\"5651c0dbc9a2bc44bf7300d293433b4c8bbad09d\":{\"data\":{\"id\":\"p56l7u\",\"newTab\":false,\"noFollow\":false,\"text\":\"Sign up to get the whole newsletter delivered to your inbox.\"},\"type\":\"linkArticle\"},\"59f52f96fd6f0a1d668f899645630b54a8bbd49c\":{\"data\":{\"altText\":\"\",\"animated\":false,\"aspect\":1.5,\"autoCrop\":false,\"caption\":\"A group of customers at Cofe+ take pictures in front of the coffee-making robot booth on Nanjing Road, the busiest shopping street in Shanghai.\",\"credit\":\"Sanghee Liu\",\"cropWidth\":756,\"fileName\":\"119db7bd42999c0c597d50c34ed2c8e1c9e73ba1\",\"id\":\"119db7bd42999c0c597d50c34ed2c8e1c9e73ba1\",\"mimeType\":\"image/jpeg\",\"offsetX\":0,\"offsetY\":0,\"originalHeight\":null,\"originalWidth\":null,\"source\":\"Fairfax Media\",\"zoom\":0.173},\"type\":\"image\"},\"ad6ee592b241eec9c4c2dc3fe9da3647cfca0b06\":{\"data\":{\"id\":\"p56l7u\",\"newTab\":false,\"noFollow\":false,\"text\":\"<b><i>Sign up for the weekly What in the World newsletter here</i></b>\"},\"type\":\"linkArticle\"},\"b5d1222bf78de27b9aabef73c3113f9ba20b379e\":{\"data\":{\"altText\":\"\",\"animated\":false,\"aspect\":1.5,\"autoCrop\":false,\"caption\":\"Maggie Li, 27, pours a flat white at Cafe del Volcan in Shanghai.\",\"credit\":\"Sanghee Liu\",\"cropWidth\":756,\"fileName\":\"e557d6e4293a9887dcdf034965b0ee7e2544dfc1\",\"id\":\"e557d6e4293a9887dcdf034965b0ee7e2544dfc1\",\"mimeType\":\"image/jpeg\",\"offsetX\":0,\"offsetY\":0,\"originalHeight\":null,\"originalWidth\":null,\"source\":\"Fairfax Media\",\"zoom\":0.126},\"type\":\"image\"}},\"byline\":\"Lisa Visentin\",\"closeComments\":false,\"headlines\":{\"headline\":\"Despite all the tea in China, in Shanghai, the coffee is hot\"},\"wordCount\":850},\"dates\":{\"created\":\"2024-11-27T09:28:16Z\",\"firstPublished\":\"2024-11-28T18:45:00Z\",\"imported\":\"2024-11-29T04:46:52.443228817Z\",\"modified\":\"2024-11-29T04:46:52Z\",\"published\":\"2024-11-28T18:45:00Z\",\"saved\":\"2024-11-29T04:46:52Z\"},\"editingState\":\"ready\",\"id\":\"p5ku4g\",\"featuredImages\":{\"landscape16x9\":{\"data\":{\"aspect\":1.777778,\"caption\":\"Maggie Li, 27, drinks a flat white at Cafe del Volcan.\",\"credit\":\"Sanghee Liu\",\"cropWidth\":1059,\"fileName\":\"574892e94032839091f180157b766483b0200c09\",\"id\":\"574892e94032839091f180157b766483b0200c09\",\"mimeType\":\"image/jpeg\",\"offsetX\":1055,\"offsetY\":290,\"source\":\"Fairfax Media\",\"zoom\":0.3501,\"age\":null,\"watermarkBrand\":null}},\"landscape3x2\":{\"data\":{\"aspect\":1.5,\"caption\":\"Maggie Li, 27, drinks a flat white at Cafe del Volcan.\",\"credit\":\"Sanghee Liu\",\"cropWidth\":756,\"fileName\":\"574892e94032839091f180157b766483b0200c09\",\"id\":\"574892e94032839091f180157b766483b0200c09\",\"mimeType\":\"image/jpeg\",\"offsetX\":0,\"offsetY\":0,\"source\":\"Fairfax Media\",\"zoom\":0.11745513866231648}},\"portrait2x3\":{\"data\":{\"aspect\":0.666667,\"caption\":\"Maggie Li, 27, drinks a flat white at Cafe del Volcan.\",\"credit\":\"Sanghee Liu\",\"cropWidth\":378,\"fileName\":\"574892e94032839091f180157b766483b0200c09\",\"id\":\"574892e94032839091f180157b766483b0200c09\",\"mimeType\":\"image/jpeg\",\"offsetX\":1066,\"offsetY\":182,\"source\":\"Fairfax Media\",\"zoom\":0.2774}},\"square1x1\":{\"data\":{\"aspect\":1,\"caption\":\"Maggie Li, 27, drinks a flat white at Cafe del Volcan.\",\"credit\":\"Sanghee Liu\",\"cropWidth\":378,\"fileName\":\"574892e94032839091f180157b766483b0200c09\",\"id\":\"574892e94032839091f180157b766483b0200c09\",\"mimeType\":\"image/jpeg\",\"offsetX\":937,\"offsetY\":229,\"source\":\"Fairfax Media\",\"zoom\":0.24904404567699842}}},\"participants\":{\"authors\":[{\"bio\":\"Lisa Visentin is the North Asia correspondent for The Sydney Morning Herald and The Age.\",\"id\":\"hvez0\",\"featuredImages\":{\"headshot\":{\"data\":{\"id\":\"e3b83e0cc0bded1ebecd9a7d4ebf56f2e94e07b8\"}}},\"name\":\"Lisa Visentin\",\"profiles\":[{\"avatar\":\"e3b83e0cc0bded1ebecd9a7d4ebf56f2e94e07b8\",\"bio\":\"Lisa Visentin is the North Asia correspondent for The Sydney Morning Herald and The Age. 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