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xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" fill="currentColor" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false"><path d="M256 416C247.812 416 239.62 412.875 233.38 406.625L41.38 214.625C28.88 202.125 28.88 181.875 41.38 169.375C53.88 156.875 74.13 156.875 86.63 169.375L256 338.8L425.4 169.4C437.9 156.9 458.15 156.9 470.65 169.4C483.15 181.9 483.15 202.15 470.65 214.65L278.65 406.65C272.4 412.9 264.2 416 256 416Z"></path></svg></span></button></div><div class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-container "><ul class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-menu" id="header_sub_section_crime-law"><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/crime-law/courts" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Courts</a></li></ul></div></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><div data-testid="nav-chain-section-item-subsection" class="c-stack b-header-nav-chain__subsection-anchor subsection-anchor " data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="center" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><a class="c-link" href="/property" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Property</a><button aria-expanded="false" aria-controls="header_sub_section_property" aria-label="Show Property sub sections" class="c-button c-button--medium c-button--default submenu-caret" type="button"><span><svg class="c-icon" width="20" height="20" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" fill="currentColor" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false"><path d="M256 416C247.812 416 239.62 412.875 233.38 406.625L41.38 214.625C28.88 202.125 28.88 181.875 41.38 169.375C53.88 156.875 74.13 156.875 86.63 169.375L256 338.8L425.4 169.4C437.9 156.9 458.15 156.9 470.65 169.4C483.15 181.9 483.15 202.15 470.65 214.65L278.65 406.65C272.4 412.9 264.2 416 256 416Z"></path></svg></span></button></div><div class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-container "><ul class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-menu" id="header_sub_section_property"><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/property/residential" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Residential</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/property/commercial-property" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Commercial Property</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/property/interiors" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Interiors</a></li></ul></div></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><div data-testid="nav-chain-section-item-subsection" class="c-stack b-header-nav-chain__subsection-anchor subsection-anchor " data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="center" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><a class="c-link" href="/food" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Food</a><button aria-expanded="false" aria-controls="header_sub_section_food" aria-label="Show Food sub sections" class="c-button c-button--medium c-button--default submenu-caret" type="button"><span><svg class="c-icon" width="20" height="20" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" fill="currentColor" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false"><path d="M256 416C247.812 416 239.62 412.875 233.38 406.625L41.38 214.625C28.88 202.125 28.88 181.875 41.38 169.375C53.88 156.875 74.13 156.875 86.63 169.375L256 338.8L425.4 169.4C437.9 156.9 458.15 156.9 470.65 169.4C483.15 181.9 483.15 202.15 470.65 214.65L278.65 406.65C272.4 412.9 264.2 416 256 416Z"></path></svg></span></button></div><div class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-container "><ul class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-menu" id="header_sub_section_food"><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/food/drink" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Drink</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/food/recipes" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Recipes</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/food/restaurants" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Restaurants</a></li></ul></div></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><div data-testid="nav-chain-section-item-subsection" class="c-stack b-header-nav-chain__subsection-anchor subsection-anchor " data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="center" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><a class="c-link" href="/health" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Health</a><button aria-expanded="false" aria-controls="header_sub_section_health" aria-label="Show Health sub sections" class="c-button c-button--medium c-button--default submenu-caret" type="button"><span><svg class="c-icon" width="20" height="20" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" fill="currentColor" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false"><path d="M256 416C247.812 416 239.62 412.875 233.38 406.625L41.38 214.625C28.88 202.125 28.88 181.875 41.38 169.375C53.88 156.875 74.13 156.875 86.63 169.375L256 338.8L425.4 169.4C437.9 156.9 458.15 156.9 470.65 169.4C483.15 181.9 483.15 202.15 470.65 214.65L278.65 406.65C272.4 412.9 264.2 416 256 416Z"></path></svg></span></button></div><div class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-container "><ul class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-menu" id="header_sub_section_health"><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/health/your-family" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Your Family</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/health/your-fitness" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Your Fitness</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/health/your-wellness" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Your Wellness</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/health/your-fitness/get-running" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Get Running</a></li></ul></div></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><div data-testid="nav-chain-section-item-subsection" class="c-stack b-header-nav-chain__subsection-anchor subsection-anchor " data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="center" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><a class="c-link" href="/life-style" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Life & Style</a><button aria-expanded="false" aria-controls="header_sub_section_life-style" aria-label="Show Life & Style sub sections" class="c-button c-button--medium c-button--default submenu-caret" type="button"><span><svg class="c-icon" width="20" height="20" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" fill="currentColor" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false"><path d="M256 416C247.812 416 239.62 412.875 233.38 406.625L41.38 214.625C28.88 202.125 28.88 181.875 41.38 169.375C53.88 156.875 74.13 156.875 86.63 169.375L256 338.8L425.4 169.4C437.9 156.9 458.15 156.9 470.65 169.4C483.15 181.9 483.15 202.15 470.65 214.65L278.65 406.65C272.4 412.9 264.2 416 256 416Z"></path></svg></span></button></div><div class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-container "><ul class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-menu" id="header_sub_section_life-style"><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/life-style/fashion" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Fashion</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/tags/beauty/" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Beauty</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/life-style/fine-art-antiques" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Fine Art & Antiques</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/life-style/gardening" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Gardening</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/life-style/people" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">People</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/life-style/travel" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Travel</a></li></ul></div></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><div data-testid="nav-chain-section-item-subsection" class="c-stack b-header-nav-chain__subsection-anchor subsection-anchor " data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="center" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><a class="c-link" href="/culture" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Culture</a><button aria-expanded="false" aria-controls="header_sub_section_culture" aria-label="Show Culture sub sections" class="c-button c-button--medium c-button--default submenu-caret" type="button"><span><svg class="c-icon" width="20" height="20" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" fill="currentColor" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false"><path d="M256 416C247.812 416 239.62 412.875 233.38 406.625L41.38 214.625C28.88 202.125 28.88 181.875 41.38 169.375C53.88 156.875 74.13 156.875 86.63 169.375L256 338.8L425.4 169.4C437.9 156.9 458.15 156.9 470.65 169.4C483.15 181.9 483.15 202.15 470.65 214.65L278.65 406.65C272.4 412.9 264.2 416 256 416Z"></path></svg></span></button></div><div class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-container "><ul class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-menu" id="header_sub_section_culture"><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/culture/art" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Art</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/culture/books" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Books</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/culture/film" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Film</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/culture/music" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Music</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/culture/stage" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Stage</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/culture/tv-radio" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">TV & Radio</a></li></ul></div></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><div data-testid="nav-chain-section-item-subsection" class="c-stack b-header-nav-chain__subsection-anchor subsection-anchor " data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="center" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><a class="c-link" href="/environment" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Environment</a><button aria-expanded="false" aria-controls="header_sub_section_environment" aria-label="Show Environment sub sections" class="c-button c-button--medium c-button--default submenu-caret" type="button"><span><svg class="c-icon" width="20" height="20" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" fill="currentColor" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false"><path d="M256 416C247.812 416 239.62 412.875 233.38 406.625L41.38 214.625C28.88 202.125 28.88 181.875 41.38 169.375C53.88 156.875 74.13 156.875 86.63 169.375L256 338.8L425.4 169.4C437.9 156.9 458.15 156.9 470.65 169.4C483.15 181.9 483.15 202.15 470.65 214.65L278.65 406.65C272.4 412.9 264.2 416 256 416Z"></path></svg></span></button></div><div class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-container "><ul class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-menu" id="header_sub_section_environment"><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/environment/climate-crisis" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Climate Crisis</a></li></ul></div></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><div data-testid="nav-chain-section-item-subsection" class="c-stack b-header-nav-chain__subsection-anchor subsection-anchor " data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="center" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><a class="c-link" href="/technology" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Technology</a><button aria-expanded="false" aria-controls="header_sub_section_technology" aria-label="Show Technology sub sections" class="c-button c-button--medium c-button--default submenu-caret" type="button"><span><svg class="c-icon" width="20" height="20" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" fill="currentColor" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false"><path d="M256 416C247.812 416 239.62 412.875 233.38 406.625L41.38 214.625C28.88 202.125 28.88 181.875 41.38 169.375C53.88 156.875 74.13 156.875 86.63 169.375L256 338.8L425.4 169.4C437.9 156.9 458.15 156.9 470.65 169.4C483.15 181.9 483.15 202.15 470.65 214.65L278.65 406.65C272.4 412.9 264.2 416 256 416Z"></path></svg></span></button></div><div class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-container "><ul class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-menu" id="header_sub_section_technology"><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/technology/big-tech" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Big Tech</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/technology/consumer-tech" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Consumer Tech</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/technology/data-security" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Data & Security</a></li><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/technology/gaming" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Gaming</a></li></ul></div></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><div data-testid="nav-chain-section-item-subsection" class="c-stack b-header-nav-chain__subsection-anchor subsection-anchor " data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="center" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><a class="c-link" href="/science" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Science</a><button aria-expanded="false" aria-controls="header_sub_section_science" aria-label="Show Science sub sections" class="c-button c-button--medium c-button--default submenu-caret" type="button"><span><svg class="c-icon" width="20" height="20" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" fill="currentColor" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false"><path d="M256 416C247.812 416 239.62 412.875 233.38 406.625L41.38 214.625C28.88 202.125 28.88 181.875 41.38 169.375C53.88 156.875 74.13 156.875 86.63 169.375L256 338.8L425.4 169.4C437.9 156.9 458.15 156.9 470.65 169.4C483.15 181.9 483.15 202.15 470.65 214.65L278.65 406.65C272.4 412.9 264.2 416 256 416Z"></path></svg></span></button></div><div class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-container "><ul class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-menu" id="header_sub_section_science"><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/science/space" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Space</a></li></ul></div></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><a class="c-link" href="/media" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Media</a></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><a class="c-link" href="/abroad" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Abroad</a></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><a class="c-link" href="/obituaries" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Obituaries</a></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><a class="c-link" href="/transport" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Transport</a></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><div data-testid="nav-chain-section-item-subsection" class="c-stack b-header-nav-chain__subsection-anchor subsection-anchor " data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="center" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><a class="c-link" href="/motors" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Motors</a><button aria-expanded="false" aria-controls="header_sub_section_motors" aria-label="Show Motors sub sections" class="c-button c-button--medium c-button--default submenu-caret" type="button"><span><svg class="c-icon" width="20" height="20" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" fill="currentColor" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false"><path d="M256 416C247.812 416 239.62 412.875 233.38 406.625L41.38 214.625C28.88 202.125 28.88 181.875 41.38 169.375C53.88 156.875 74.13 156.875 86.63 169.375L256 338.8L425.4 169.4C437.9 156.9 458.15 156.9 470.65 169.4C483.15 181.9 483.15 202.15 470.65 214.65L278.65 406.65C272.4 412.9 264.2 416 256 416Z"></path></svg></span></button></div><div class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-container "><ul class="b-header-nav-chain__subsection-menu" id="header_sub_section_motors"><li class="subsection-item" data-testid="nav-chain-subsection-item"><a class="c-link" href="/motors/car-reviews/" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Car Reviews</a></li></ul></div></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><a class="c-link" href="/listen/" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Listen</a></li><li class="section-item" data-testid="nav-chain-section-item"><div data-testid="nav-chain-section-item-subsection" class="c-stack b-header-nav-chain__subsection-anchor subsection-anchor " data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="center" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><a class="c-link" href="/podcasts" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1">Podcasts</a><button aria-expanded="false" aria-controls="header_sub_section_podcasts" aria-label="Show Podcasts sub sections" class="c-button c-button--medium c-button--default submenu-caret" type="button"><span><svg class="c-icon" width="20" height="20" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" fill="currentColor" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false"><path d="M256 416C247.812 416 239.62 412.875 233.38 406.625L41.38 214.625C28.88 202.125 28.88 181.875 41.38 169.375C53.88 156.875 74.13 156.875 86.63 169.375L256 338.8L425.4 169.4C437.9 156.9 458.15 156.9 470.65 169.4C483.15 181.9 483.15 202.15 470.65 214.65L278.65 406.65C272.4 412.9 264.2 416 256 416Z"></path></svg></span></button></div><div 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My salary is two-thirds the amount I was paid in my previous PAYE job</a></h3><div class="b-flex-promo-card__metadata"><span class="c-it-byline c-it-byline--list"><span>By</span><span> Jamie O'Connell</span></span></div></div></div></article></div></div><div class="c-stack grid-item " data-style-direction="vertical" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="unset" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><div class="b-newsletter-block "><div class="c-stack b-newsletter-block__vertical" data-style-direction="inherit" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="unset" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><div class="image-wrapper_top"><div style="aspect-ratio:600 / 0;background-color:var(--global-neutral-1)" class=""><img data-chromatic="ignore" alt="Food & Drink Club" class="c-image" loading="lazy" 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1.88627 1.13096 0.799122Z"></path></svg></span></h2></div></div></a></div></div><div id="lazy_6389" class="lazy_container"><div class="b-flex-chain"><div class="b-flex-chain__grid-container b-flex-chain__grid-container__444 has-divider gap-divider"><div class="c-stack grid-item " data-style-direction="vertical" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="unset" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><div direction="vertical" wrap="wrap" class="c-grid b-it-our-writers"><div class="c-stack b-it-our-writers__writer" data-style-direction="vertical" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="start" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><div class="c-stack b-it-our-writers__writer_promo image_show" data-style-direction="vertical" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="unset" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><a class="c-link" 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data-style-alignment="start" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><div class="c-stack b-it-our-writers__writer_text" data-style-direction="vertical" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="start" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><a class="c-link" href="/author/lilly-higgins/"><h3 class="c-heading b-it-our-writers__writer_name">Lilly Higgins</h3></a><a class="c-link" href="/food/2024/07/22/harissa-glazed-chickpeas-make-the-perfect-base-for-juicy-barbecued-lamb/"><h4 class="c-heading b-it-our-writers__writer_description">Harissa-glazed chickpeas make the perfect base for juicy barbecued lamb</h4></a></div><div class="c-stack b-it-our-writers__writer_image" data-style-direction="vertical" data-style-justification="center" data-style-alignment="start" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><a class="c-link" href="/food/2024/07/22/harissa-glazed-chickpeas-make-the-perfect-base-for-juicy-barbecued-lamb/"><img data-chromatic="ignore" 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0.0713963 1.88627 1.13096 0.799122Z"></path></svg></span></h2></div></div></a></div></div><div id="lazy_70254" class="lazy_container"></div><div id="lazy_72341" class="lazy_container"></div><hr class="c-divider b-it-divider-block"/><div id="arcad-feature-f0fyYsoFO75M7S1-19f21c976f7691" class="default__StyledAdUnit-sc-1moicrg-0 gKEhzJ arcad-feature" style="min-height:107px;--mobile-display:block;--tablet-display:block;--desktop-display:block"><div class="arcad-container width_100" style="max-width:970px"><div id="arcad_f0fyYsoFO75M7S1-19f21c976f7691" class="arcad ad-970x90"></div></div></div><hr class="c-divider b-it-divider-block"/><div id="lazy_3590" class="lazy_container"><div class="b-flex-chain"><div class="b-flex-chain__grid-container b-flex-chain__grid-container__84 has-divider gap-divider"><div class="c-stack grid-item grid-column-span-8" data-style-direction="vertical" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="unset" data-style-inline="false" 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href="/crime-law/courts/2025/03/20/teacher-who-denies-she-is-gaa-catfish-gets-interim-injunction-to-restrain-disciplinary-process/" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1"><img data-chromatic="ignore" alt="" class="c-image" loading="lazy" src="https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/Z2OZNR7TQVC5JAZTDFQ3NUBZYI.jpg?focal=1646%2C1108&auth=ca82f67128304d85e139dcc4496518e1a357b134dd4b7a2c0c6dab9aeb9ddf82&width=274&height=182" srcSet="https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/Z2OZNR7TQVC5JAZTDFQ3NUBZYI.jpg?focal=1646%2C1108&auth=ca82f67128304d85e139dcc4496518e1a357b134dd4b7a2c0c6dab9aeb9ddf82&width=137&height=91 137w, https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/Z2OZNR7TQVC5JAZTDFQ3NUBZYI.jpg?focal=1646%2C1108&auth=ca82f67128304d85e139dcc4496518e1a357b134dd4b7a2c0c6dab9aeb9ddf82&width=274&height=182 274w, https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/Z2OZNR7TQVC5JAZTDFQ3NUBZYI.jpg?focal=1646%2C1108&auth=ca82f67128304d85e139dcc4496518e1a357b134dd4b7a2c0c6dab9aeb9ddf82&width=548&height=364 548w" width="274" height="182"/></a></div><hr aria-hidden="true"/><div class="c-stack b-numbered-list__item" data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="unset" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><p class="c-paragraph">2</p><a class="c-link" href="/world/europe/2025/03/20/dont-blame-us-blame-musk-germanys-tesla-owning-taxi-drivers-appeal-for-customer-tolerance/"><h3 class="c-heading">Tesla-owning taxi drivers in Germany squeezed as customers boycott Musk’s cars</h3></a><a class="c-link b-numbered-list__item-image" href="/world/europe/2025/03/20/dont-blame-us-blame-musk-germanys-tesla-owning-taxi-drivers-appeal-for-customer-tolerance/" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1"><img data-chromatic="ignore" alt="" class="c-image" loading="lazy" src="https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/RHPM6K33YX7C4ORQ4VMJG6TFHQ.jpg?smart=true&auth=fc1f4ea7df255ad0da25a593c682d4cb1ff9486b36f19b47ca348710af7eacc1&width=274&height=182" srcSet="https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/RHPM6K33YX7C4ORQ4VMJG6TFHQ.jpg?smart=true&auth=fc1f4ea7df255ad0da25a593c682d4cb1ff9486b36f19b47ca348710af7eacc1&width=137&height=91 137w, https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/RHPM6K33YX7C4ORQ4VMJG6TFHQ.jpg?smart=true&auth=fc1f4ea7df255ad0da25a593c682d4cb1ff9486b36f19b47ca348710af7eacc1&width=274&height=182 274w, https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/RHPM6K33YX7C4ORQ4VMJG6TFHQ.jpg?smart=true&auth=fc1f4ea7df255ad0da25a593c682d4cb1ff9486b36f19b47ca348710af7eacc1&width=548&height=364 548w" width="274" height="182"/></a></div><hr aria-hidden="true"/><div class="c-stack b-numbered-list__item" data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="unset" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><p class="c-paragraph">3</p><a class="c-link" href="/crime-law/courts/2025/03/19/woman-who-live-streamed-high-speed-m50-chase-and-almost-struck-garda-jailed-for-two-years/"><h3 class="c-heading">Woman who live-streamed high-speed M50 chase and almost struck garda jailed for two years</h3></a><a class="c-link b-numbered-list__item-image" href="/crime-law/courts/2025/03/19/woman-who-live-streamed-high-speed-m50-chase-and-almost-struck-garda-jailed-for-two-years/" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1"><img data-chromatic="ignore" alt="" class="c-image" loading="lazy" src="https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/UYHSHKIXCD5RLTKGUQVRDXEFRU.jpg?focal=1164%2C765&auth=d34e7ea0e42900db7a2f288ed2ec0315d4d780f3ca4a7a5ef298657610cbd1da&width=274&height=182" srcSet="https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/UYHSHKIXCD5RLTKGUQVRDXEFRU.jpg?focal=1164%2C765&auth=d34e7ea0e42900db7a2f288ed2ec0315d4d780f3ca4a7a5ef298657610cbd1da&width=137&height=91 137w, https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/UYHSHKIXCD5RLTKGUQVRDXEFRU.jpg?focal=1164%2C765&auth=d34e7ea0e42900db7a2f288ed2ec0315d4d780f3ca4a7a5ef298657610cbd1da&width=274&height=182 274w, https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/UYHSHKIXCD5RLTKGUQVRDXEFRU.jpg?focal=1164%2C765&auth=d34e7ea0e42900db7a2f288ed2ec0315d4d780f3ca4a7a5ef298657610cbd1da&width=548&height=364 548w" width="274" height="182"/></a></div><hr aria-hidden="true"/><div class="c-stack b-numbered-list__item" data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="unset" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><p class="c-paragraph">4</p><a class="c-link" href="/business/2025/03/21/us-tariffs-could-cost-irish-economy-more-than-18bn-in-lost-trade/"><h3 class="c-heading">US tariffs could cost Irish economy more than €18bn in lost trade</h3></a><a class="c-link b-numbered-list__item-image" href="/business/2025/03/21/us-tariffs-could-cost-irish-economy-more-than-18bn-in-lost-trade/" aria-hidden="true" tabindex="-1"><img data-chromatic="ignore" alt="" class="c-image" loading="lazy" src="https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/OQCR2QFLDUXOQZRNA27BHBTMHU.jpg?focal=1708%2C351&auth=6860a7fca0761cb22393efea453a0c7d2769f67da7faff6e93f338994119502d&width=274&height=182" srcSet="https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/OQCR2QFLDUXOQZRNA27BHBTMHU.jpg?focal=1708%2C351&auth=6860a7fca0761cb22393efea453a0c7d2769f67da7faff6e93f338994119502d&width=137&height=91 137w, https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/OQCR2QFLDUXOQZRNA27BHBTMHU.jpg?focal=1708%2C351&auth=6860a7fca0761cb22393efea453a0c7d2769f67da7faff6e93f338994119502d&width=274&height=182 274w, https://www.irishtimes.com/resizer/v2/OQCR2QFLDUXOQZRNA27BHBTMHU.jpg?focal=1708%2C351&auth=6860a7fca0761cb22393efea453a0c7d2769f67da7faff6e93f338994119502d&width=548&height=364 548w" width="274" height="182"/></a></div><hr aria-hidden="true"/><div class="c-stack b-numbered-list__item" data-style-direction="horizontal" data-style-justification="start" data-style-alignment="unset" data-style-inline="false" data-style-wrap="nowrap"><p 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Not the <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/restaurants/\" target=\"_blank\">restaurant</a>, not the street, but the way it arrived – golden, glistening, a perfect lacquered dome – and the brief moment of panic over what I was supposed to do with it.","type":"text"},{"_id":"T6VYHUUIR5HTNE2YDYDOTTYYVM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716878},"content":"At the time, my Chinese dining experience was limited to Kites in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/ballsbridge/\" target=\"_blank\">Ballsbridge</a> and Kingsland on <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/dame-street/\" target=\"_blank\">Dame Street</a>, both in Dublin. I was in Cambridge for the <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/cambridge-university/\" target=\"_blank\">Magdalene College</a> May Ball, back when it was still a male-only college and hosted the only white-tie affair. There were plenty of nights out before and after. One evening, we went to a nearby Chinese restaurant – a group of eight, led by a Singaporean who knew exactly what he was doing.","type":"text"},{"_id":"I3UJZBL3WBCWZPBITD5Z5IP2HY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716879},"content":"Calm and precise, he assembled a pancake – hoisin, crisped skin, rich meat, cucumber, scallion – rolled it with care and handed it to me, as if it were the most natural thing in the world. He ditched law 25 years ago. Now, he owns the international Aqua Restaurant Group.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QJVF6G7MEJECRFO3LFQG7ZRH4M","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716880},"content":"So when China Tang opened in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/monkstown/\" target=\"_blank\">Monkstown</a> in February, claiming to be the first in Ireland to do Peking duck properly, I had to go.","type":"text"},{"_id":"CL2AUJ6UMJBBLK7ZE5MTKZLBTI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716881},"content":"This is the new outpost from the team behind Hakkahan in Stoneybatter, and Little Dumpling and <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/restaurants/review/2023/01/20/nan-chinese-review-i-put-my-chinese-friend-in-charge-of-ordering-a-feast-arrives/?\" target=\"_blank\">Nan Chinese Restaurant</a> on Stephen Street. A mirrored ceiling (far better than it sounds), a swanky bar and a room of circular booths, banquettes and tables for two is dramatic but inviting. I had ordered the Peking duck (€88) in advance – essential, since it takes two days of drying before hitting a bullet oven at blistering heat. They bring it when it’s ready.","type":"text"},{"_id":"RRREBAADTNG4NFNFXODLQNUJSI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716882},"content":"Which happens right as I scald my mouth on a xiao long bao (soup dumpling, €14 for three). I break through the delicate squid ink-infused skin, broth cascading down my spoon, scalding, unstoppable, just as the trolley rolls up beside us. Clearing these and the China Tang signature dumpling platter (€14 for four), becomes urgent. They’re delicious, even when inhaled at reckless speed.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WABOMSCTPVDLHNMYNDVSPSTTJE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716883},"content":"Peking duck at China Tang is theatre. It rolls in gleaming, a lacquered masterpiece, before Mr Chan – crisp whites from toque to toe – carves it with ceremony at the table. The skin is amber, glassy, brittle as spun sugar. Chan moves deftly, blade gliding, the first cut lifting a rectangle of skin, so crisp it seems weightless. This is our first bite. It cracks on contact, warm and rich, the fat melting instantly.","type":"text"},{"_id":"27BF544JEBDENF5A3WUX6PTZ6Y","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716884},"content":"He carves with precision, each piece falling away cleanly. We start assembling – house-made pancakes, soft and warm; hoisin, dark but restrained; scallions, sharp; cucumber, cool and crisp. Each bite collapses in layers – the crackle of skin, the richness of the meat, the hoisin pulling it together, the crunch of the vegetables adding freshness.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JRJLVREZQZFFTPBFWPK4GWUWT4","additional_properties":{"_id":"GGM5QRB6YNGBLG64F7WR4LOR7E"},"content":"Lena, Portobello review: This is the perfect restaurant, with the best fish dish I have eaten in years","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"ASYYM6PIN5EYBE7334PQ4L52IE","additional_properties":{"_id":1742296290653},"type":"image"},{"_id":"JI3JC7CMDZCTBHVP5O7F2MIQLA","additional_properties":{"_id":1742296290656},"type":"image"},{"_id":"LJY4AAHB5ZCBTCNHPWMS3YSXEQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1742296290657},"type":"image"},{"_id":"U6L4G4SXZBAY7CNTGPOBL6DJZY","additional_properties":{"_id":1742296290658},"type":"image"},{"_id":"DX7XWH5X4RFNXPPNIUIEK7DKJI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716885},"content":"We drink Segredos São Miguel (€30), an unremarkable but fruity Portuguese red. It’s good to see a few bottles under €40 on the wine list, but for something more serious, there’s Gaja and Château Lynch-Bages.","type":"text"},{"_id":"B5GCAXSJNVHJVCTB3GZFGBTTKA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716886},"content":"The second course of Peking duck can feel like an afterthought. Mr Chan has glided away with his trolley and the remains of the bird which are scheduled to return as either wok-fried salt and chilli duck, or in a soup of tofu and salted pickled vegetables. We have opted to have ours wok-fried. Chunks of duck on the bone arrive – darker, crispier, with just enough cumin to take it in an unexpected but welcome direction. We are too full to do it justice and ask for the rest to be packed up.","type":"text"},{"_id":"NH6IPSCZEFDKNIPDGNBTOOJJVM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716887},"content":"Dessert is pumpkin sweet wine soup with rice balls (€6). Our waitress says it’s one of her favourite dishes. In China, they eat it in the morning, at festivals, as a symbol of reunion. The rice balls float like little planets, chewy, delicate, a contrast to the silky broth. It is not overly sweet, not heavy, just comforting and warm.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WS6XAUXFXRBCRG2VDKVWU3Q6GY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716888},"content":"Of course, the big question is whether the Peking duck is worth €88. Two years ago, that price would have been a shock. Now, with restaurant prices soaring, it feels almost inevitable. Share it between two, and you’ll need little else. More importantly, you’ll be talking about it for weeks. Some dishes demand ceremony, and this is one of them – an exercise in precision, from the crackle of skin to the gleam of perfectly carved meat. The kind of meal that stays with you long after the last bite. It just might be one of the best you eat this year.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WC2Y43ZDBFFWXMAMMENMIQBSTY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716889},"content":"Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €152.","type":"text"},{"_id":"U2MGORRIGZE4NKJZZCSATHFI6M","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716890},"content":"<b>The Verdict:</b> Top tier Peking duck.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5PSNPT4FE5ENBFBK7IOVWYEZZQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716891},"content":"<b>Food provenance:</b> FX Buckley, Andarl Farm, Silverhill Ducks, La Rousse Foods, Jackie Leonard & Sons, George’s Fish Shop, and Keelings.","type":"text"},{"_id":"CSKZWEJW4REPJM5BKUFJSZK2YE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716892},"content":"<b>Vegetarian options:</b> Tofu and vegetable soup, vegetable dumpling, Sichuan stir-fried fine beans, and stir-fried baby broccoli with ginger sauce.","type":"text"},{"_id":"2AYKVRWCURBN7K2DFIZ7B3TXVE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716893},"content":"<b>Wheelchair access:</b> No accessible room or toilet.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DY56VAEPNJDXTHH4ME53SIPSBE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716894},"content":"<b>Music:</b> A chilled vibe with Cookin’ on 3 Burners and Carol Duboc.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Corinna Hardgrave"}},"name":"Corinna Hardgrave"}]},"description":{"basic":"An exercise in precision, this is the kind of meal that stays with you long after the last bite "},"display_date":"2025-03-20T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"China Tang review: You’ll be talking about the Peking duck for weeks","native":"Restaurant review: You’ll be talking about the Peking duck for weeks"},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"TSB2N3PJXVEI7FBZ44GH7UZRHM","auth":{"1":"8091b312e901fabc55e6cca34527c0f508cc08785101eb966bea6eb2059f5656"},"focal_point":{"x":4915,"y":3050},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/TSB2N3PJXVEI7FBZ44GH7UZRHM.JPG"}},"subtype":"review","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Restaurants"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/20/china-tang-restaurant-review-youll-be-talking-about-the-peking-duck-for-weeks/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/restaurants","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Restaurants"}}}},{"_id":"DF5TBFU6PBDLZC62TTXPME4LIE","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":665,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/939ab1d1-9e42-4e42-b358-e910f86d8aea/versions/1742287161/media/da11b679527c255dae1453cb2d82d494_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2025/03/18/food-on-campus-greasy-college-grub-makes-way-for-smart-student-led-initiatives/","content_elements":[{"_id":"QCMXYCVRUJE2XK7SBCDJFJ7VVM","additional_properties":{"_id":1669205010648},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/third-level/\" target=\"_blank\">College campuses</a> are transforming their <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/\" target=\"_blank\">food</a> offerings, going beyond traditional canteen fare to put colour on the table. From clubs bringing long distance commuters together to sustainable solutions and creative twists on classic dishes, these food initiatives are redefining campus dining and students’ relationships with food.","type":"text"},{"_id":"EWR6WF63IFFBXPZZORGWVQWHHQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741946364161},"content":"Sustainable solutions","type":"header"},{"_id":"W6FNCYT5XIYN3UDHHI7NENAEFI","additional_properties":{"_id":"3KSK2I2LG5CHZOTOVIL4HNRYXU"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"PW53C4TBP5FTJIRHRXMTODJ3GY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156792},"content":"Commitment to sustainability is a common thread springing up across college campuses, and <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/university-college-cork-ucc/\" target=\"_blank\">University College Cork’s (UCC)</a> pioneering Farm to Fork initiative is an exciting example of the work being done in this area.","type":"text"},{"_id":"FC3IXQYKOZCAJI6CQW4H75VWB4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156793},"content":"In an effort to reduce its carbon footprint, the university keeps its food produce as local as possible. Fruit and vegetables used in UCC’s on-campus restaurants are harvested at a farm in nearby Curraheen, run by catering firm Kylemore Services Group (KSG).","type":"text"},{"_id":"QHF4RVPQ7BD6VEM34ZOYGNGJN4","additional_properties":{"_id":1742232156049},"content":"The majority of food on offer to students comes through this effort by UCC to reduce its carbon footprint. The university became the first in the world to earn a Green Flag award in 2010, and has since received another four.","type":"text"},{"_id":"UE5IQMQ6UNF65OPI4VX2WAM6NE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156795},"content":"Cillian Cashman, general manager of KSG Catering, says the company is working with UCC to explore options that will deepen the impact of the Farm to Fork scheme. “We’re looking to use an anaerobic digester to further reduce our carbon footprint. The idea is that the food waste produced in our kitchen will go back up to our farm and be put into the soil that will make the vegetables to bring back down again,” Cashman says.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KMOFMJM7QBAV7GWLTF2HBA52KU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156796},"content":"According to Cashman “the difference in the quality [of the produce] is just phenomenal”. Students can enjoy a balanced main course meal, paired with a bowl of soup and tea or coffee for €5.30.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DS45EGWHWREMTLFTIQPLWBXJX4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156797},"content":"Elsewhere, <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/university-of-galway/\" target=\"_blank\">University of Galway</a> has set itself apart as a forerunner in the sustainability circuit, having been awarded the top university in Ireland for sustainable development for three years running. This award by Times Higher Education Impact rankings recognises progress in responding to the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals.","type":"text"},{"_id":"J5Q3JPIRZNCXFEWFPQUNS24ZC4","additional_properties":{"_id":"E652OWFG7RCDHPYMG5YHKXFZE4"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"HPE4PMP4PBBIDGJ6HUT7HYE2ZM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156798},"content":"A student of the university, Adam Mullins, has played his part in contributing to these goals by founding the Student Pantry which is “an initiative for food waste distribution and re-education”.","type":"text"},{"_id":"TJMNND6YPNGZXA3EHNGYTGX3ZU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156799},"content":"Mullins established a system where food is collected through Food Cloud, a social enterprise which creates links with local supermarkets and companies that have surplus produce.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KMEFICQI3JDSZJK5XA535ILGOQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156800},"content":"“All the food we get is either overproduced, short on its ‘sell by’ date or passing or passed it’s ‘best before’ date,” says Mullins, who stocks the pantry himself every Monday and Friday.","type":"text"},{"_id":"P3XY45CEFRFFTFE25JOKJ24LWI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156801},"content":"“The kind of items we get are anything and everything from yoghurt, ice cream, bananas, chocolate, potatoes, ready-made dinners from <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/aldi/\" target=\"_blank\">Aldi</a> and stuff like that. Literally anything you could buy in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/tesco/\" target=\"_blank\">Tesco</a>, we get.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"APGHLONHPVA7TGOYUKH6U73CPU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156802},"content":"Students are able to avail of this food for free, with the pantry “on track for last year and this year to redistribute €500,000 worth of groceries”, Mullins says. “If we didn’t take it, it would’ve gone to landfill.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"HCCBWXUVFFGXJMRMKDX2DBG3TA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156803},"content":"A spokesperson from University of Galway said the college’s Farm to Fork scheme, similar to that in UCC, is being operated by Masterchefs who run “a number of restaurants and cafes on campus”. Masterchefs have a 20-acre farm based in Ballyneety, <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/limerick/\" target=\"_blank\">Co Limerick</a>, where they grow organic vegetables and fruit for use in the university’s kitchens.","type":"text"},{"_id":"K5ZLHAPFBRGHXBBNYMINMN32AM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156804},"content":"On the University of Galway campus itself, various types of food are grown across its “organic garden, herb garden, fruit garden and a variety of fruit trees... along with blackberry bushes growing along the river banks”.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PPBBEUIMVFFQ7GJI4IUWZGBGIE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741946364175},"content":"Connecting commuters","type":"header"},{"_id":"OK3G7FQXWVFWLPNHL7SIFYUUEU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156806},"content":"Along the western seaboard, <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/atlantic-technological-university/\" target=\"_blank\">Atlantic Technological University</a> (ATU) has set up its own version of The Breakfast Club, aimed at its growing contingent of daily student commuters.","type":"text"},{"_id":"65KCWDVZWRF4NAOGVPUSXDTGW4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156807},"content":"Yvonne Kennedy, the university’s healthy campus co-ordinator who is based on the Sligo campus, says the “social connection” this provides has also become “very popular with our international students”.","type":"text"},{"_id":"YQKTHM2F4ZAUTNXETPU6MQRL4U","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156808},"content":"“The reason why we opened it originally is because a lot of our students now have to commute and get to campus early. It’s a nice spot for them, if they have arrived early, to maybe decompress before you head off to class and get a little bit to eat. For some people it could be the only food they have in the morning,” Kennedy says.","type":"text"},{"_id":"TQRBYJELQJBQBCIY3SYE26JB7Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156809},"content":"“A lot of our students could come and commute from Longford every day so for them to maybe make some friends, breakfast club is a way for them to do that.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"5SUSEN42XVDCVJSTGBXJ7DRV6I","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156810},"content":"From 8.15am on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, students can avail of a selection of cereals and fruit to fuel their busy days ahead.","type":"text"},{"_id":"IGQZJUC4HVAALN3FPH5KW6JQC4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156811},"content":"ATU Sligo’s main canteen, run by O’Hehirs, has “a mix of healthy options and the not so healthy options”. Although there’s a salad bar, this doesn’t always appeal to students – “chips will always be popular, even at 11am in the morning”, Kennedy says.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ULQ45AT6KND67HF7FD3X5YE22U","additional_properties":{"_id":1741946364182},"content":"Cooking up a storm in the classroom","type":"header"},{"_id":"SFEWBJZ22BFUXOLVISTPXHDKXY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156813},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/technological-university-dublin/\" target=\"_blank\">Technological University Dublin’s</a> (TUD) Grangegorman and Tallaght campuses are both home to tailor-made training restaurants for the university’s culinary students. These spaces are open to the public, who can pre-book a ticket and avail of a great value in-house meal. Lecturer James Sheridan advises that it’s important to remember the primary purpose of these centres is learning.","type":"text"},{"_id":"3PDSQRVXSVGSBJ2HJMGKSCVBSE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156814},"content":"“It’s a very controlled environment ... when we were in Cathal Brugha Street it was like a hidden gem I would say, and was all very local with the same people coming in. We try to give our students some real world learning experiences and part of those is a pop-up restaurant. It’s about pouring all their theory and knowledge into a practical setting,” Sheridan says.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WS57H4UF4JAOLG33RLUWRBNSBY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156815},"content":"The restaurants operate in tandem with the academic calendar, with lunch tickets ranging from €20-€30 and dinner from €35-€45 per person.","type":"text"},{"_id":"4RAXAOAJKJGIPCJTI44VKE3MJY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741946364186},"content":"Elevated basics","type":"header"},{"_id":"UCOT5EDBZ5BMTB4C3KM2JLJITY","additional_properties":{"_id":"TIJGINLAJNC2JJTCEXNF2ABYXA"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"VBK2H56A75ES3A4VQAQGDAQFFU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156817},"content":"At Dublin’s largest campus, <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/university-college-dublin-ucd/\" target=\"_blank\">University College Dublin (UCD)</a>, catering company Gather & Gather’s latest food project is represented by The Walkway which opened its doors in September 2024. The restaurant, located by the university’s central Gerard Manley Hopkins Building, has a number of novel offerings, including pasta freshly made in-house.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5OROGLJP3ZDCDMSOI2E23UELCU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156818},"content":"Pauline Fox, managing director of Gather & Gather, describes the pasta “made using only two simple ingredients – Italian durum wheat and water” as their “standout feature”, while the home-made tiramisu is “a real crowd-pleaser” too. The elevated pasta dishes range from €5-€7, and include orecchiette with broccoli, miso and chilli or radiatori pasta with a Tuscan-inspired beef brisket ragu.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WKT5L3LVGVFW5IMR2RAC65ID7A","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156819},"content":"Pizza-by-the-slice is fast becoming a popular lunchtime option too.","type":"text"},{"_id":"P75BZ3MPHFFPRKAMEZJQVNT5IA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156820},"content":"In the restaurant’s rotisserie section, dishes are priced between €5-€9. Daily specials here might include balsamic BBQ ribs, chicken Milanese or meatball marinara.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WUQCMW42GNBJ7H2CUOSKDJH6QU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156821},"content":"Giving a flavour of what goes on behind the scenes, Fox says: “We brine the chicken in a blend of sea salt, thyme, and lemon zest, handpick and wash salads meticulously, and even make our own gravy stock from the bones of the rotisserie chicken.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"UEY3V3VTNZEBNBRPQA2SISOGSQ","additional_properties":{"_id":"B6QMRVWVKFDQLMNNE3ZM7YJNVM"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"FBSLSPJVHNE6PLRVH2X6NOV4NY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156822},"content":"Also in Dublin, the <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/national-college-of-art-and-design/\" target=\"_blank\">National College of Art and Design’s (NCAD)</a> ever-so-hip subterranean cafe The Goodies is led by Siobhán Byrne, who prides herself on producing healthy options for the college’s students.","type":"text"},{"_id":"77VYOX2RIBHFXKEZH5B43C3HQQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156823},"content":"“Our food is known to be healthy. I don’t have a deep fryer, I don’t have a microwave, so we don’t do a lot of fried food,” Byrne says.","type":"text"},{"_id":"Z2Q7SWWUPFD7HNOIGPX4TJ6MVI","additional_properties":{"_id":1742232156082},"content":"“We have fun with our menu and do fun things that students might like, but my focus is on healthy food made from lovely ingredients.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"WYSN2Y4P6RHCBGJUQYL2WMADWE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156824},"content":"The cafe on Thomas Street serves student lunches with a twist. Accommodating the college’s large cohort of vegetarian and vegan students, Byrne’s menus typically include a soup (€4), novel sandwich options (from €4), a “grain pot”, gourmet sausage rolls (€4) and a selection of baked goods – from carrot cake and banana bread to gluten-free brownies.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DNJH4B6DCRGYNDESWHLC3BKX5Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156825},"content":"To give a flavour of what’s on offer, on one menu the soup of the day could be roasted Jerusalem artichoke with home-made crisps and the “sandwich” option a Vada Pav (battered spiced potato and pea burger).","type":"text"},{"_id":"I6O7M45M4JAABPXMB4TQEZBEGE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741946364196},"content":"Student-run social hub","type":"header"},{"_id":"SNPOHRPZRRDM7EWPHOS7LG3BOU","additional_properties":{"_id":"3VBHZVBEIZD3DGW6ATSA65MGPU"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"OZRO2N34B5ABJK4FSS2ORZQQ7I","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156827},"content":"Operated entirely by students, for the students, <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/trinity-college-dublin-tcd/\" target=\"_blank\">Trinity College Dublin</a> Students’ Union (TCDSU) cafe on Pearse Street offers freshly-made toasties, sandwiches and coffees – served in mugs from their eclectic collection. Their no-frills meal deal comes at the affordable price of €5.50, which includes a toasted sandwich, an americano and either crisps or a bar of chocolate.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5GT2BS7GANHJ7HSQINGMHOSF2Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156828},"content":"Laura Hennessy, one of the cafe‘s student employees, describes the atmosphere of the bustling social hub as “very homey”.","type":"text"},{"_id":"A4Q4C3BDH5AYXADH2QLSJ7MOB4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156829},"content":"“I think it’s just a nice vibe,” says Hennessy. “It’s hard to find somewhere in town where you can get for sit-in and it’s still under a tenner; that’s kind of unheard of.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"OF47LFPL3NGJTAXLDRGVUZR3TU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156830},"content":"Ordering lunch in Irish earns hungry students a 15 per cent discount, she adds pointing to a poster with some helpful phrases beside the till. The deal is certainly solid motivation to ramp up the cúpla focail.","type":"text"},{"_id":"EMHFU5IQFBDUZFKEHJNBQSRIMI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156831},"content":"A recent student council motion was passed to set aside €35,000 in emergency funds for the TCDSU cafe. During the same council meeting, €5,000 was allocated to facilitate and support a similar cafe model in Trinity Hall, the college’s designated accommodation for first-year students located in the South Dublin suburb of Dartry.","type":"text"},{"_id":"FSARF2BR75FVTDW2KWV7KR2DTY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156832},"content":"TCDSU communications and marketing officer, Beth Strahan, says that “the prioritisation of academic spaces over student respite areas” is a “huge problem” that needs to be addressed by the college.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ZELRGZG2LZCGTPMXO4PWB6GYNM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156833},"content":"“What used to be a cafe in the Old Stone Building in St James’s Hospital is now a lecture theatre, with health science students having to eat their lunches on the floor... We are having to pressurise [the] college to take student spaces seriously, and have successfully secured a student centre to open in the old Science Gallery in 2026,” Strahan says.","type":"text"},{"_id":"3FY46KW6RZFB5IS7GBXA7T37OY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156834},"content":"“This latest funding for the cafe is a step in the right direction to preserve the few student-run spaces that we have on-campus, and continue to provide cheap lunches in Dublin city centre.”","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Ella Sloane"}},"name":"Ella Sloane"}]},"description":{"basic":"From the Galway pantry tackling food waste to breakfast clubs and training restaurants, campus dining is having a moment"},"display_date":"2025-03-18T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Food on campus: Greasy college grub makes way for smart student-led initiatives","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"VPJICSAPO5DYFKJBAYSMEY5GWQ","auth":{"1":"5e166a60c3e8ddf108d36239271b95fc0e31fbc8dd143d21335b81f9db8d24a2"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/VPJICSAPO5DYFKJBAYSMEY5GWQ.png"}},"subtype":"feature","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2025/03/18/food-on-campus-greasy-college-grub-makes-way-for-smart-student-led-initiatives/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"NRB2M3DGMZDJ5IF5BHNADB5O2M","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":171,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/f0c12510-13f2-4e94-ab29-8619df8c03c1/versions/1741102436/media/0291ca6f7ef68ae2faeab2a589f1255d_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-two-irish-classics-guinness-beef-and-bacon-get-a-modern-day-makeover/","content_elements":[{"_id":"A4KPKQDMDFDT3BWWGWLERLNTXU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014807},"content":"With <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/st-patrick/\" target=\"_blank\">St Patrick’s Day</a> upon us and diplomatic trips to Washington DC and other US cities under way, thoughts turn to the modern take on Irish food in 2025. I’ve taken some inspiration this week from the classic American bar for my first recipe, while upgrading a classic for my second.","type":"text"},{"_id":"RHIRAFGDMRC4RNHLKBKEWAYWV4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014808},"content":"Traditional Irish cuisine is a much discussed topic among those connected with food or hospitality in this country. What is it? What are the dishes? What ingredients do we consider ourselves best in class at? While we still have a long way to go, the interest and conversation around food in Ireland is way ahead of where it was 20 years ago. Through the stellar work of many, down the generations, food culture has never been stronger. We just need to keep the momentum alive. When I began cooking in professional kitchens in 2008, Ireland was home to a single two-star <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/michelin/\" target=\"_blank\">Michelin</a> restaurant, along with seven one-star restaurants. Seventeen years on, and that tally has grown to five two-star restaurants and 18 one-star restaurants. Not to mention countless neighbourhood restaurants, hotels, bistros, cafes, bakeries and festivals that make up a dynamic and creative industry we can all be a part of.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QBIEERUD4RHZ7JKB7LWKTF3MWQ","additional_properties":{"_id":"G2432I6G35FNLHNW4WL5DE32LM"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"WSNKIMMCKBAQHEEUOLD7OA5NOE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014809},"content":"St Patrick’s Day and its “Global Greening” in recent years means that Ireland reaches so many eyes around the world during the festival, shining a light on all that we have to offer on our small island. This week, two recipes with wide appeal that use great Irish ingredients and can be re-created anywhere in the world. The first is a take on the mini burger or slider – bringing a touch of Irish flair to this American staple. In place of the conventional burger patty, I’ve used a piece of Irish beef cheek that has been slow-cooked and glazed in stout and treacle, then topped off with crispy onion rings, a parsley salad and some horseradish cream.","type":"text"},{"_id":"VJWOYJHOQVEJZKLRKTILZPKCSE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014810},"content":"The second recipe is a new take on bacon and cabbage, designed to be prepped in advance and cooked off as a starter or light main course. The recipe takes elements from the Spanish croquette, using a cheesy béchamel as its base to bind together slow-cooked ham hock and cabbage before being highly seasoned. It’s topped with a gribiche sauce, a fancy name for an egg salad, packed with parsley, lemon juice and capers to cut through the richness of the cake. It may not look like your traditional fare, but on the palate it hits all the touchpoints of a plate of bacon, cabbage and parsley sauce.","type":"text"},{"_id":"4ZUCEGKBRNCWLPBJBPFU5T6VKQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014811},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-crispy-bacon-and-cabbage-cakes-with-gribiche/\" target=\"_self\" rel=\"\" title=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-crispy-bacon-and-cabbage-cakes-with-gribiche/\"><b>Recipe: Crispy bacon and cabbage cakes with gribiche</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"PZCIK7SGNREHZAA6K2MVI3QFDU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014812},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/04/mark-moriarty-beef-cheek-sliders-with-crispy-onion-rings/\"><b>Recipe: Beef cheek sliders with crispy onion rings</b></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Mark Moriarty"}},"name":"Mark Moriarty"}]},"description":{"basic":"Two recipes with wide appeal, using great Irish ingredients, that can be re-created anywhere in the world"},"display_date":"2025-03-15T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"St Patrick’s Day feasts: How to make tasty modern versions of two Irish classics","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"YK3C254JP5GJLA2WQKVLATL7SY","auth":{"1":"46b0138f5b7e1fae876725aeeb74327209bf7b1803346ed0224b53326e2232e2"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/YK3C254JP5GJLA2WQKVLATL7SY.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-two-irish-classics-guinness-beef-and-bacon-get-a-modern-day-makeover/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"4F5APOAZGZDOPB3HP3QUGWOPXE","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":183,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/5469/podcasts/1dd19b71-df8b-488e-9877-ee89cdbc22fe/versions/1741103153/media/9952f6e371ba44e589fdf97868aa46b1_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/15/john-wilson-theres-more-to-new-zealand-wine-than-marlborough-sauvignon/","content_elements":[{"_id":"FYXCMFOHXBGQ3HC4II2IDDWPZE","additional_properties":{"_id":1649760379023},"content":"We have an ongoing love affair with Marlborough sauvignon in this country. Those lifted aromas, bright fresh fruit and zingy lime acidity are a winning combination that draws us back time after time. It has been 50 years since the first grapevines were planted in Marlborough, and the region has expanded hugely in that period. So what is it that makes this wine so special?","type":"text"},{"_id":"27J5PLRYOZELFNQDWQRFYKK25E","additional_properties":{},"content":"As every visitor is warned, New Zealand has high levels of ultraviolet radiation from the sun that requires the application of sun block on a regular basis. This UV light allows grapes to ripen at lower temperatures, thereby retaining acidity, while the constant wind (“our secret weapon”, one winemaker told me) keeps temperatures down. In addition, the cool night-time temperatures and warm days allow the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly. Marlborough, named “Kei puta te Wairau” or “the place with the hole in the cloud” by the Māori has even less cloud cover and more sunshine than other parts of the country. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"MXHKEVRWKRAK3F7K3WKATJMB6U","additional_properties":{},"content":"However, similar conditions can also be found in other parts of New Zealand and with other grape varieties too. Waipara and Nelson, both a short drive from Marlborough, produce some great white wines, including sauvignon. But New Zealand grows a range of other white grapes (as well as some reds) including Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris and even Albariño. All of these share the same lively acidity and succulent ripe fruit that make them a great food-friendly alternative to sauvignon blanc. One of each grape variety is featured below.","type":"text"},{"_id":"BJ5CRX4GKVACVPOJPQ47IBVXCE","additional_properties":{},"type":"image"},{"_id":"XFEE5QNJWBFQ7MFVMWGXW5LXXA","additional_properties":{},"content":"Deluxe Pinot Gris 2022, Gisborne, New Zealand","type":"header"},{"_id":"ZIXBXXHV5JAHZH3QDTLXJNGBYU","additional_properties":{},"content":"13%, €9.79","type":"header"},{"_id":"UFWESJIF65CSRMNIZQVLUAU5XE","additional_properties":{},"content":"Lightly honeyed with succulent textured nectarines, orchard fruits and vibrant acidity. This would go nicely with Asian prawn dishes. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"N7AKWOKGF5DDJHALGE7KZCJKN4","additional_properties":{},"content":"<i>From Lidl</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"A4TB5ONKJBAIDBP52DNDAUOM2I","additional_properties":{},"type":"image"},{"_id":"PA2WRHSMLRAFBBD4PEROFUH7FA","additional_properties":{},"content":"Lawson’s Dry Hills Riesling 2019, Marlborough, New Zealand","type":"header"},{"_id":"LGMGH7YPWBCWJDDDZ6DBSIDQNI","additional_properties":{},"content":"11.5%, €23","type":"header"},{"_id":"4Q24ZLQQ4REHHLVFZFZ4IGKFBE","additional_properties":{},"content":"Enticing aromas, with crisp red and green apple fruits, lively citrus acidity, a honeyed touch and a lip-smacking dry finish. This would be great with most seafood, creamy cheeses and summery salads.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PBWBBKOFBRCSVGQPHFXCP4E4B4","additional_properties":{},"content":"<i>From wineonline.ie; 64wine, Glasthule and Mount Merrion</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"6VV456V5YNHCLMOY7RCET64RXI","additional_properties":{},"type":"image"},{"_id":"NWROKD3T6BHCFMYFWUMOPQ34ZQ","additional_properties":{},"content":"Albariño 2023, Forrest Estate, Marlborough","type":"header"},{"_id":"YZU6FKT53RF4RMZ4Q3IT45T44Y","additional_properties":{},"content":"12.5%, €23","type":"header"},{"_id":"OTHU2RW2K5EPBFGZPBKKT7276Q","additional_properties":{},"content":"Zesty, snappy green apple and peach with mandarin peel. This would make a very stylish aperitif or a great partner for shellfish. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"WQB5ANFNQRDLTD3V3VX5ZRI6HE","additional_properties":{},"content":"<i>From JNWine.com; Blackrock Cellars; Swans on the Green, Naas; The Old Barracks, Birdhill; K Cellars, Magherafelt, Co Derry; The Vintage Wine Merchant, Antrim</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"JWR2MBNNHJFRHBDEESRNNQB5HE","additional_properties":{},"type":"image"},{"_id":"QCGIEKTS25CH5BPEG27PX34F2Y","additional_properties":{},"content":"Tiritiri Chardonnay 2019 Neudorf, Nelson","type":"header"},{"_id":"ZC6P52EKUZEM3J6KO7D7G4OTY4","additional_properties":{},"content":"13.5%, €29","type":"header"},{"_id":"VHPBGCSMXNEAJPJ6CX5AWIRZUE","additional_properties":{},"content":"A delightful refreshing chardonnay with smooth peach fruits with subtle toasted nuts and a crisp dry finish. Try it with baked salmon or creamy chicken dishes.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HRE2HGFXWRGF5BBUXDTSZSRYRA","additional_properties":{},"content":"<i>From JNwine.com; The Wicklow Wine Co</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"YNYRUPESLJBOXF32EQ2JJNEYFE","additional_properties":{},"content":"","type":"text"},{"_id":"5WWNZKMZQRBMHHFABTYZWYKLUY","additional_properties":{},"content":"","type":"text"},{"_id":"6BXWONI37ZGU5BXPUY6QDM5TL4","additional_properties":{},"content":"","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"John Wilson"}},"name":"John Wilson"}]},"description":{"basic":"Climate conditions allow for great chardonnay, riesling and even albariño from other regions too"},"display_date":"2025-03-15T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"There’s more to New Zealand wine than Marlborough sauvignon","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"5469"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"QEYPGVSABFATDDG6JIBK6GQG2A","auth":{"1":"1a6ce52398e1e7ac3374745d5e2df0290ecf225cbf166fd867caf8a0236e6971"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/QEYPGVSABFATDDG6JIBK6GQG2A.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Drink"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/15/john-wilson-theres-more-to-new-zealand-wine-than-marlborough-sauvignon/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/drink","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Drink"}}}},{"_id":"S3AEJKKOLVCH3EJMQCLQULFDN4","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":362,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/c29c54b5-163a-4d4a-8588-f2fdba411987/versions/1741169127/media/0c67c1b72dcc90dbfb68c5e9c2518213_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/13/first-look-lena-is-the-perfect-restaurant-the-best-fish-dish-i-have-eaten-in-years/","content_elements":[{"_id":"C46GARTZ3RANRBSAP2ZDX66NTM","additional_properties":{"_id":"CULYO42R6JG3FFKY6XGILU4A4Q"},"embed":{"config":{},"id":"review-highlights-58797","url":"/"},"subtype":"review_powerup","type":"custom_embed"},{"_id":"PEZURDVJQVEPRAUU6PWHXFBZJM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899021},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/italy/\" target=\"_self\">Italy</a> is a minefield for the hungry. Even the most promising shopkeeper – the kind who clearly eats well every day – will send you on a wild-goose chase if you don’t ask for a recommendation in the right way. The trick, I discovered, is to nod through their list of trattorias, wait for them to finish, then say, “Ah, yes, but where do you take your mother?” At which point, the real answer arrives, hushed and conspiratorial, as though passing on the co-ordinates to buried treasure.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HNGMZHV2EJGSNOGH5MHOVAOOMA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899022},"content":"A better trick is to be there at the same time as an Italian with impeccable taste and a duty to keep you fed. In this case, Enrico Fantasia (yes, real name) – a Venetian a wine importer, and a fellow who considers cream in carbonara an act of war.","type":"text"},{"_id":"C7FPDR6UCVBNFL3BMB4GUACDKE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741798620482},"content":"At Ristorante Al Covo, plate after plate arrived. Each dish, a pure expression of that morning’s Rialto market haul, fresh from the Venetian lagoon – three or four perfect ingredients, revered like holy relics.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5Q2NRNB6ZVBW7LCIIF43Z4ZMCQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899023},"content":"This steady parade of dishes, one at a time, is for me the finest way to eat Italian food. I adopt this strategy at Lena in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/portobello/\" target=\"_self\">Portobello</a> – formerly Locks, now one of the year’s most anticipated openings, led by Liz Matthews, Simon Barrett and Paul McNamara (all of <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/food-and-drink/restaurant-reviews/uno-mas-review-we-knew-etto-s-sister-restaurant-would-be-great-it-s-perfect-1.3725216\" target=\"_self\">Uno Mas</a> and Etto) – where the only way to launch into the menu of antipasti, primi, secondi, and dolci is by starting with sage and anchovy fritti (€8).","type":"text"},{"_id":"EEZ53D6UKNFWLNO6V26DUS6JOA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899024},"type":"image"},{"_id":"5Q2NRNB6ZVBW7LCIIF43Z4ZMCQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899025},"content":"Two parcels arrive – a sage leaf in spliced anchovy, crisp in golden batter, a burst of umami and salt mellowed by heat. So perfect with a glass of Colomba Bianca, “Vitese”, Grillo (€36.50) from a phenomenal wine list that has been compiled by Barrett and restaurant manager Cian Lynch, who will be familiar to Uno Mas regulars. In fact, you’ll see quite a few familiar faces, including Dovy Stasys, who has worked front of house in Locks since 2020. Already Lena feels like it has been open for years.","type":"text"},{"_id":"SINVFOWAFZEXHB7UCIEQM775XI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899026},"content":"Wild sea bass crudo (€15) from the primi section is an example of exactly why Italy remains undefeated in the business of assembling a few ingredients and making them taste like a revelation. Cured sea bass, blood orange, rosemary and opaque slices of radish – that’s it. But then you taste it – the fresh, firm sea bass, the peppery, earthy crunch of the radish, the oil from the rosemary nudging its way across the acid-sweetness of the blood orange – and the whole thing ties together magically.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DO56IFCEUJGOHMDRCEAZQ2UMAU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899027},"type":"image"},{"_id":"LANBKMVLDVE33GXVKQFXEHZ7DM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899028},"content":"Then, pici cacio e pepe (€16) – flour, water, Pecorino Romano, black pepper – nowhere to hide. The pasta, made in-house using a La Monferrina pasta machine, is thick and chewy, a muscular twirl of dough carrying its emulsified sauce with confidence. A glance around the room and I find that I’m not the only one sweeping a finger across the plate, unwilling to let a single drop of it go.","type":"text"},{"_id":"K3RIXFF6GJHEZMFUXD7YS4ERQQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899029},"type":"image"},{"_id":"LANBKMVLDVE33GXVKQFXEHZ7DM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899030},"content":"The grilled wild halibut (€33) arrives, burnished outside, trembling inside at the suggestion of a knife. A Jerusalem artichoke purée sits beneath it, adding a soft nuttiness, while crisped artichoke brings texture. Tarragon oil slices through with the precision of a lightning strike, while a beautifully balanced, buttery vermouth sauce wraps it in silk. This is the best fish dish I have eaten in years.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5VMGM4J4AREORLXYKKHDWXQ4KE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899031},"content":"And then the veal shin osso buco (€32), a contrast in weight and flavour, the bone standing proud, filled with trembling marrow. The saffron-tinted risotto, each grain distinct, shimmers with butter and the undertones of smoked bone marrow; the gremolata adds a sharp, grassy counterpoint. The slow-cooked veal is still pink inside, still carrying that umami depth, and still full of life. The risotto is al dente, and finishing it is a two-person job.","type":"text"},{"_id":"RRUPORR5GFEX5B5REZB2HAZB6Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1741798620492},"content":"2025 is going to be the hardest year yet for cafes. My salary is two-thirds the amount I was paid in my previous PAYE job","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"SQD26NY6UVERXG5DPN5ZZDS4OQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899032},"content":"The tiramisu (€10), layers of mascarpone, coffee, cocoa, and sponge, is destined to become the signature dish here, like the red wine prunes with mascarpone in Etto and the flan de queso in Uno Mas. It’s deliciously floppy, not cloying. The coffee is sharp, not bitter. The top is dusted with micro-planed chocolate. But it’s the rum baba (€10) that delivers the final, effortless knockout. It is not the usual booze-sodden sponge, but a version so light you could eat it for breakfast. Champagne and new season rhubarb bring a fresh snap of spring.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KQRHHPYH3JA5ZB7NQRYPVBVYGU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899033},"content":"Lena understands seasonality, balance and restraint at an instinctive level. Serious cooking is masked as effortless simplicity. It’s a restaurant so quietly assured in its ability that it makes others feel over-styled and under-thought. It’s not just good – it’s the perfect restaurant.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OXNNXUKOWJA3XGPG3WOXNBVIQM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899034},"content":"Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €160.50.","type":"text"},{"_id":"P2TMUIPNPNDHJEYBWDJKPGQFUY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899035},"content":"<b>The verdict</b> I am in love; this is the perfect restaurant.","type":"text"},{"_id":"BQC4BAB45NERVHTUTHCLCUFQSE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899036},"content":"<b>Food provenance</b> Glenmar, Hannan’s beef, Pigs on the Green, and McNally’s vegetables.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ZDY3MFAZTNAURD3ZOTAQFCNXHI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899037},"content":"<b>Vegetarian options</b> Focaccia, supplì al telefono, buffalo mozzarella, pici cacio e pepe, and pumpkin and ricotta mezzaluna.","type":"text"},{"_id":"W2KFKLUO5NBENOUK45TNIZS3JM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899038},"content":"<b>Wheelchair access</b> Accessible room with no accessible toilet.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KBA5NF3BCRGBTJ37H265DBBMTM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899039},"content":"<b>Music</b> Sault and soul in the background.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Corinna Hardgrave"}},"name":"Corinna Hardgrave"}]},"description":{"basic":"The former Locks in Portobello is so quietly assured that it makes others feel overstyled and underthought"},"display_date":"2025-03-13T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Lena, Portobello review: This is the perfect restaurant, with the best fish dish I have eaten in years","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"32TH7AE7GZF4BKPUINEWZKCT6A","auth":{"1":"881a06d777c3d21cce68f5f29254d4569aecdcbff85117d3ad7d2733c9a1f174"},"focal_point":{"x":2249,"y":1541},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/32TH7AE7GZF4BKPUINEWZKCT6A.JPG"}},"subtype":"review","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Restaurants"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/13/first-look-lena-is-the-perfect-restaurant-the-best-fish-dish-i-have-eaten-in-years/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/restaurants","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Restaurants"}}}}],"count":6779,"_id":"57ec473e71469caf13b91788f136c24de57aa3fe5b24a1cb2c73d3c65ad89626"},"expires":1742523902996,"lastModified":1742523602793},"{\"feedOffset\":0,\"feedSize\":5,\"offset\":0,\"query\":\"(taxonomy.primary_section._id:\\\\/food*) AND (subtype:\\\"Columnist\\\" OR subtype:\\\"Review\\\" OR subtype:\\\"Feature\\\" OR subtype:\\\"Showcase\\\")\",\"size\":5}":{"data":{"content_elements":[{"_id":"V55M2UMEGNAF5NORB4G74JPZGE","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":354,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/a73ef01b-254d-41aa-aada-06816fdc3272/versions/1741710904/media/c804e3755903b03470efbeab1227c434_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/20/china-tang-restaurant-review-youll-be-talking-about-the-peking-duck-for-weeks/","content_elements":[{"_id":"VGJKCGCNBBBR5NKKNOAHL2QPUI","additional_properties":{"_id":"MER3MJQMXZBK3BVZONLVNMUSJY"},"embed":{"config":{},"id":"review-highlights-82556","url":"/"},"subtype":"review_powerup","type":"custom_embed"},{"_id":"TWCJZZQU4VB3VKIRKBALVX4QFU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716877},"content":"I remember the first time I had Peking duck. Not the <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/restaurants/\" target=\"_blank\">restaurant</a>, not the street, but the way it arrived – golden, glistening, a perfect lacquered dome – and the brief moment of panic over what I was supposed to do with it.","type":"text"},{"_id":"T6VYHUUIR5HTNE2YDYDOTTYYVM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716878},"content":"At the time, my Chinese dining experience was limited to Kites in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/ballsbridge/\" target=\"_blank\">Ballsbridge</a> and Kingsland on <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/dame-street/\" target=\"_blank\">Dame Street</a>, both in Dublin. I was in Cambridge for the <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/cambridge-university/\" target=\"_blank\">Magdalene College</a> May Ball, back when it was still a male-only college and hosted the only white-tie affair. There were plenty of nights out before and after. One evening, we went to a nearby Chinese restaurant – a group of eight, led by a Singaporean who knew exactly what he was doing.","type":"text"},{"_id":"I3UJZBL3WBCWZPBITD5Z5IP2HY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716879},"content":"Calm and precise, he assembled a pancake – hoisin, crisped skin, rich meat, cucumber, scallion – rolled it with care and handed it to me, as if it were the most natural thing in the world. He ditched law 25 years ago. Now, he owns the international Aqua Restaurant Group.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QJVF6G7MEJECRFO3LFQG7ZRH4M","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716880},"content":"So when China Tang opened in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/monkstown/\" target=\"_blank\">Monkstown</a> in February, claiming to be the first in Ireland to do Peking duck properly, I had to go.","type":"text"},{"_id":"CL2AUJ6UMJBBLK7ZE5MTKZLBTI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716881},"content":"This is the new outpost from the team behind Hakkahan in Stoneybatter, and Little Dumpling and <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/restaurants/review/2023/01/20/nan-chinese-review-i-put-my-chinese-friend-in-charge-of-ordering-a-feast-arrives/?\" target=\"_blank\">Nan Chinese Restaurant</a> on Stephen Street. A mirrored ceiling (far better than it sounds), a swanky bar and a room of circular booths, banquettes and tables for two is dramatic but inviting. I had ordered the Peking duck (€88) in advance – essential, since it takes two days of drying before hitting a bullet oven at blistering heat. They bring it when it’s ready.","type":"text"},{"_id":"RRREBAADTNG4NFNFXODLQNUJSI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716882},"content":"Which happens right as I scald my mouth on a xiao long bao (soup dumpling, €14 for three). I break through the delicate squid ink-infused skin, broth cascading down my spoon, scalding, unstoppable, just as the trolley rolls up beside us. Clearing these and the China Tang signature dumpling platter (€14 for four), becomes urgent. They’re delicious, even when inhaled at reckless speed.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WABOMSCTPVDLHNMYNDVSPSTTJE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716883},"content":"Peking duck at China Tang is theatre. It rolls in gleaming, a lacquered masterpiece, before Mr Chan – crisp whites from toque to toe – carves it with ceremony at the table. The skin is amber, glassy, brittle as spun sugar. Chan moves deftly, blade gliding, the first cut lifting a rectangle of skin, so crisp it seems weightless. This is our first bite. It cracks on contact, warm and rich, the fat melting instantly.","type":"text"},{"_id":"27BF544JEBDENF5A3WUX6PTZ6Y","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716884},"content":"He carves with precision, each piece falling away cleanly. We start assembling – house-made pancakes, soft and warm; hoisin, dark but restrained; scallions, sharp; cucumber, cool and crisp. Each bite collapses in layers – the crackle of skin, the richness of the meat, the hoisin pulling it together, the crunch of the vegetables adding freshness.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JRJLVREZQZFFTPBFWPK4GWUWT4","additional_properties":{"_id":"GGM5QRB6YNGBLG64F7WR4LOR7E"},"content":"Lena, Portobello review: This is the perfect restaurant, with the best fish dish I have eaten in years","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"ASYYM6PIN5EYBE7334PQ4L52IE","additional_properties":{"_id":1742296290653},"type":"image"},{"_id":"JI3JC7CMDZCTBHVP5O7F2MIQLA","additional_properties":{"_id":1742296290656},"type":"image"},{"_id":"LJY4AAHB5ZCBTCNHPWMS3YSXEQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1742296290657},"type":"image"},{"_id":"U6L4G4SXZBAY7CNTGPOBL6DJZY","additional_properties":{"_id":1742296290658},"type":"image"},{"_id":"DX7XWH5X4RFNXPPNIUIEK7DKJI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716885},"content":"We drink Segredos São Miguel (€30), an unremarkable but fruity Portuguese red. It’s good to see a few bottles under €40 on the wine list, but for something more serious, there’s Gaja and Château Lynch-Bages.","type":"text"},{"_id":"B5GCAXSJNVHJVCTB3GZFGBTTKA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716886},"content":"The second course of Peking duck can feel like an afterthought. Mr Chan has glided away with his trolley and the remains of the bird which are scheduled to return as either wok-fried salt and chilli duck, or in a soup of tofu and salted pickled vegetables. We have opted to have ours wok-fried. Chunks of duck on the bone arrive – darker, crispier, with just enough cumin to take it in an unexpected but welcome direction. We are too full to do it justice and ask for the rest to be packed up.","type":"text"},{"_id":"NH6IPSCZEFDKNIPDGNBTOOJJVM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716887},"content":"Dessert is pumpkin sweet wine soup with rice balls (€6). Our waitress says it’s one of her favourite dishes. In China, they eat it in the morning, at festivals, as a symbol of reunion. The rice balls float like little planets, chewy, delicate, a contrast to the silky broth. It is not overly sweet, not heavy, just comforting and warm.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WS6XAUXFXRBCRG2VDKVWU3Q6GY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716888},"content":"Of course, the big question is whether the Peking duck is worth €88. Two years ago, that price would have been a shock. Now, with restaurant prices soaring, it feels almost inevitable. Share it between two, and you’ll need little else. More importantly, you’ll be talking about it for weeks. Some dishes demand ceremony, and this is one of them – an exercise in precision, from the crackle of skin to the gleam of perfectly carved meat. The kind of meal that stays with you long after the last bite. It just might be one of the best you eat this year.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WC2Y43ZDBFFWXMAMMENMIQBSTY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716889},"content":"Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €152.","type":"text"},{"_id":"U2MGORRIGZE4NKJZZCSATHFI6M","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716890},"content":"<b>The Verdict:</b> Top tier Peking duck.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5PSNPT4FE5ENBFBK7IOVWYEZZQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716891},"content":"<b>Food provenance:</b> FX Buckley, Andarl Farm, Silverhill Ducks, La Rousse Foods, Jackie Leonard & Sons, George’s Fish Shop, and Keelings.","type":"text"},{"_id":"CSKZWEJW4REPJM5BKUFJSZK2YE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716892},"content":"<b>Vegetarian options:</b> Tofu and vegetable soup, vegetable dumpling, Sichuan stir-fried fine beans, and stir-fried baby broccoli with ginger sauce.","type":"text"},{"_id":"2AYKVRWCURBN7K2DFIZ7B3TXVE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716893},"content":"<b>Wheelchair access:</b> No accessible room or toilet.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DY56VAEPNJDXTHH4ME53SIPSBE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716894},"content":"<b>Music:</b> A chilled vibe with Cookin’ on 3 Burners and Carol Duboc.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Corinna Hardgrave"}},"name":"Corinna Hardgrave"}]},"description":{"basic":"An exercise in precision, this is the kind of meal that stays with you long after the last bite "},"display_date":"2025-03-20T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"China Tang review: You’ll be talking about the Peking duck for weeks","native":"Restaurant review: You’ll be talking about the Peking duck for weeks"},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"TSB2N3PJXVEI7FBZ44GH7UZRHM","auth":{"1":"8091b312e901fabc55e6cca34527c0f508cc08785101eb966bea6eb2059f5656"},"focal_point":{"x":4915,"y":3050},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/TSB2N3PJXVEI7FBZ44GH7UZRHM.JPG"}},"subtype":"review","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Restaurants"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/20/china-tang-restaurant-review-youll-be-talking-about-the-peking-duck-for-weeks/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/restaurants","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Restaurants"}}}},{"_id":"DF5TBFU6PBDLZC62TTXPME4LIE","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":665,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/939ab1d1-9e42-4e42-b358-e910f86d8aea/versions/1742287161/media/da11b679527c255dae1453cb2d82d494_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2025/03/18/food-on-campus-greasy-college-grub-makes-way-for-smart-student-led-initiatives/","content_elements":[{"_id":"QCMXYCVRUJE2XK7SBCDJFJ7VVM","additional_properties":{"_id":1669205010648},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/third-level/\" target=\"_blank\">College campuses</a> are transforming their <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/\" target=\"_blank\">food</a> offerings, going beyond traditional canteen fare to put colour on the table. From clubs bringing long distance commuters together to sustainable solutions and creative twists on classic dishes, these food initiatives are redefining campus dining and students’ relationships with food.","type":"text"},{"_id":"EWR6WF63IFFBXPZZORGWVQWHHQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741946364161},"content":"Sustainable solutions","type":"header"},{"_id":"W6FNCYT5XIYN3UDHHI7NENAEFI","additional_properties":{"_id":"3KSK2I2LG5CHZOTOVIL4HNRYXU"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"PW53C4TBP5FTJIRHRXMTODJ3GY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156792},"content":"Commitment to sustainability is a common thread springing up across college campuses, and <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/university-college-cork-ucc/\" target=\"_blank\">University College Cork’s (UCC)</a> pioneering Farm to Fork initiative is an exciting example of the work being done in this area.","type":"text"},{"_id":"FC3IXQYKOZCAJI6CQW4H75VWB4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156793},"content":"In an effort to reduce its carbon footprint, the university keeps its food produce as local as possible. Fruit and vegetables used in UCC’s on-campus restaurants are harvested at a farm in nearby Curraheen, run by catering firm Kylemore Services Group (KSG).","type":"text"},{"_id":"QHF4RVPQ7BD6VEM34ZOYGNGJN4","additional_properties":{"_id":1742232156049},"content":"The majority of food on offer to students comes through this effort by UCC to reduce its carbon footprint. The university became the first in the world to earn a Green Flag award in 2010, and has since received another four.","type":"text"},{"_id":"UE5IQMQ6UNF65OPI4VX2WAM6NE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156795},"content":"Cillian Cashman, general manager of KSG Catering, says the company is working with UCC to explore options that will deepen the impact of the Farm to Fork scheme. “We’re looking to use an anaerobic digester to further reduce our carbon footprint. The idea is that the food waste produced in our kitchen will go back up to our farm and be put into the soil that will make the vegetables to bring back down again,” Cashman says.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KMOFMJM7QBAV7GWLTF2HBA52KU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156796},"content":"According to Cashman “the difference in the quality [of the produce] is just phenomenal”. Students can enjoy a balanced main course meal, paired with a bowl of soup and tea or coffee for €5.30.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DS45EGWHWREMTLFTIQPLWBXJX4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156797},"content":"Elsewhere, <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/university-of-galway/\" target=\"_blank\">University of Galway</a> has set itself apart as a forerunner in the sustainability circuit, having been awarded the top university in Ireland for sustainable development for three years running. This award by Times Higher Education Impact rankings recognises progress in responding to the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals.","type":"text"},{"_id":"J5Q3JPIRZNCXFEWFPQUNS24ZC4","additional_properties":{"_id":"E652OWFG7RCDHPYMG5YHKXFZE4"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"HPE4PMP4PBBIDGJ6HUT7HYE2ZM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156798},"content":"A student of the university, Adam Mullins, has played his part in contributing to these goals by founding the Student Pantry which is “an initiative for food waste distribution and re-education”.","type":"text"},{"_id":"TJMNND6YPNGZXA3EHNGYTGX3ZU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156799},"content":"Mullins established a system where food is collected through Food Cloud, a social enterprise which creates links with local supermarkets and companies that have surplus produce.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KMEFICQI3JDSZJK5XA535ILGOQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156800},"content":"“All the food we get is either overproduced, short on its ‘sell by’ date or passing or passed it’s ‘best before’ date,” says Mullins, who stocks the pantry himself every Monday and Friday.","type":"text"},{"_id":"P3XY45CEFRFFTFE25JOKJ24LWI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156801},"content":"“The kind of items we get are anything and everything from yoghurt, ice cream, bananas, chocolate, potatoes, ready-made dinners from <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/aldi/\" target=\"_blank\">Aldi</a> and stuff like that. Literally anything you could buy in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/tesco/\" target=\"_blank\">Tesco</a>, we get.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"APGHLONHPVA7TGOYUKH6U73CPU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156802},"content":"Students are able to avail of this food for free, with the pantry “on track for last year and this year to redistribute €500,000 worth of groceries”, Mullins says. “If we didn’t take it, it would’ve gone to landfill.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"HCCBWXUVFFGXJMRMKDX2DBG3TA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156803},"content":"A spokesperson from University of Galway said the college’s Farm to Fork scheme, similar to that in UCC, is being operated by Masterchefs who run “a number of restaurants and cafes on campus”. Masterchefs have a 20-acre farm based in Ballyneety, <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/limerick/\" target=\"_blank\">Co Limerick</a>, where they grow organic vegetables and fruit for use in the university’s kitchens.","type":"text"},{"_id":"K5ZLHAPFBRGHXBBNYMINMN32AM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156804},"content":"On the University of Galway campus itself, various types of food are grown across its “organic garden, herb garden, fruit garden and a variety of fruit trees... along with blackberry bushes growing along the river banks”.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PPBBEUIMVFFQ7GJI4IUWZGBGIE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741946364175},"content":"Connecting commuters","type":"header"},{"_id":"OK3G7FQXWVFWLPNHL7SIFYUUEU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156806},"content":"Along the western seaboard, <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/atlantic-technological-university/\" target=\"_blank\">Atlantic Technological University</a> (ATU) has set up its own version of The Breakfast Club, aimed at its growing contingent of daily student commuters.","type":"text"},{"_id":"65KCWDVZWRF4NAOGVPUSXDTGW4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156807},"content":"Yvonne Kennedy, the university’s healthy campus co-ordinator who is based on the Sligo campus, says the “social connection” this provides has also become “very popular with our international students”.","type":"text"},{"_id":"YQKTHM2F4ZAUTNXETPU6MQRL4U","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156808},"content":"“The reason why we opened it originally is because a lot of our students now have to commute and get to campus early. It’s a nice spot for them, if they have arrived early, to maybe decompress before you head off to class and get a little bit to eat. For some people it could be the only food they have in the morning,” Kennedy says.","type":"text"},{"_id":"TQRBYJELQJBQBCIY3SYE26JB7Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156809},"content":"“A lot of our students could come and commute from Longford every day so for them to maybe make some friends, breakfast club is a way for them to do that.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"5SUSEN42XVDCVJSTGBXJ7DRV6I","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156810},"content":"From 8.15am on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, students can avail of a selection of cereals and fruit to fuel their busy days ahead.","type":"text"},{"_id":"IGQZJUC4HVAALN3FPH5KW6JQC4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156811},"content":"ATU Sligo’s main canteen, run by O’Hehirs, has “a mix of healthy options and the not so healthy options”. Although there’s a salad bar, this doesn’t always appeal to students – “chips will always be popular, even at 11am in the morning”, Kennedy says.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ULQ45AT6KND67HF7FD3X5YE22U","additional_properties":{"_id":1741946364182},"content":"Cooking up a storm in the classroom","type":"header"},{"_id":"SFEWBJZ22BFUXOLVISTPXHDKXY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156813},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/technological-university-dublin/\" target=\"_blank\">Technological University Dublin’s</a> (TUD) Grangegorman and Tallaght campuses are both home to tailor-made training restaurants for the university’s culinary students. These spaces are open to the public, who can pre-book a ticket and avail of a great value in-house meal. Lecturer James Sheridan advises that it’s important to remember the primary purpose of these centres is learning.","type":"text"},{"_id":"3PDSQRVXSVGSBJ2HJMGKSCVBSE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156814},"content":"“It’s a very controlled environment ... when we were in Cathal Brugha Street it was like a hidden gem I would say, and was all very local with the same people coming in. We try to give our students some real world learning experiences and part of those is a pop-up restaurant. It’s about pouring all their theory and knowledge into a practical setting,” Sheridan says.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WS57H4UF4JAOLG33RLUWRBNSBY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156815},"content":"The restaurants operate in tandem with the academic calendar, with lunch tickets ranging from €20-€30 and dinner from €35-€45 per person.","type":"text"},{"_id":"4RAXAOAJKJGIPCJTI44VKE3MJY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741946364186},"content":"Elevated basics","type":"header"},{"_id":"UCOT5EDBZ5BMTB4C3KM2JLJITY","additional_properties":{"_id":"TIJGINLAJNC2JJTCEXNF2ABYXA"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"VBK2H56A75ES3A4VQAQGDAQFFU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156817},"content":"At Dublin’s largest campus, <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/university-college-dublin-ucd/\" target=\"_blank\">University College Dublin (UCD)</a>, catering company Gather & Gather’s latest food project is represented by The Walkway which opened its doors in September 2024. The restaurant, located by the university’s central Gerard Manley Hopkins Building, has a number of novel offerings, including pasta freshly made in-house.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5OROGLJP3ZDCDMSOI2E23UELCU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156818},"content":"Pauline Fox, managing director of Gather & Gather, describes the pasta “made using only two simple ingredients – Italian durum wheat and water” as their “standout feature”, while the home-made tiramisu is “a real crowd-pleaser” too. The elevated pasta dishes range from €5-€7, and include orecchiette with broccoli, miso and chilli or radiatori pasta with a Tuscan-inspired beef brisket ragu.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WKT5L3LVGVFW5IMR2RAC65ID7A","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156819},"content":"Pizza-by-the-slice is fast becoming a popular lunchtime option too.","type":"text"},{"_id":"P75BZ3MPHFFPRKAMEZJQVNT5IA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156820},"content":"In the restaurant’s rotisserie section, dishes are priced between €5-€9. Daily specials here might include balsamic BBQ ribs, chicken Milanese or meatball marinara.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WUQCMW42GNBJ7H2CUOSKDJH6QU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156821},"content":"Giving a flavour of what goes on behind the scenes, Fox says: “We brine the chicken in a blend of sea salt, thyme, and lemon zest, handpick and wash salads meticulously, and even make our own gravy stock from the bones of the rotisserie chicken.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"UEY3V3VTNZEBNBRPQA2SISOGSQ","additional_properties":{"_id":"B6QMRVWVKFDQLMNNE3ZM7YJNVM"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"FBSLSPJVHNE6PLRVH2X6NOV4NY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156822},"content":"Also in Dublin, the <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/national-college-of-art-and-design/\" target=\"_blank\">National College of Art and Design’s (NCAD)</a> ever-so-hip subterranean cafe The Goodies is led by Siobhán Byrne, who prides herself on producing healthy options for the college’s students.","type":"text"},{"_id":"77VYOX2RIBHFXKEZH5B43C3HQQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156823},"content":"“Our food is known to be healthy. I don’t have a deep fryer, I don’t have a microwave, so we don’t do a lot of fried food,” Byrne says.","type":"text"},{"_id":"Z2Q7SWWUPFD7HNOIGPX4TJ6MVI","additional_properties":{"_id":1742232156082},"content":"“We have fun with our menu and do fun things that students might like, but my focus is on healthy food made from lovely ingredients.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"WYSN2Y4P6RHCBGJUQYL2WMADWE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156824},"content":"The cafe on Thomas Street serves student lunches with a twist. Accommodating the college’s large cohort of vegetarian and vegan students, Byrne’s menus typically include a soup (€4), novel sandwich options (from €4), a “grain pot”, gourmet sausage rolls (€4) and a selection of baked goods – from carrot cake and banana bread to gluten-free brownies.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DNJH4B6DCRGYNDESWHLC3BKX5Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156825},"content":"To give a flavour of what’s on offer, on one menu the soup of the day could be roasted Jerusalem artichoke with home-made crisps and the “sandwich” option a Vada Pav (battered spiced potato and pea burger).","type":"text"},{"_id":"I6O7M45M4JAABPXMB4TQEZBEGE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741946364196},"content":"Student-run social hub","type":"header"},{"_id":"SNPOHRPZRRDM7EWPHOS7LG3BOU","additional_properties":{"_id":"3VBHZVBEIZD3DGW6ATSA65MGPU"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"OZRO2N34B5ABJK4FSS2ORZQQ7I","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156827},"content":"Operated entirely by students, for the students, <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/trinity-college-dublin-tcd/\" target=\"_blank\">Trinity College Dublin</a> Students’ Union (TCDSU) cafe on Pearse Street offers freshly-made toasties, sandwiches and coffees – served in mugs from their eclectic collection. Their no-frills meal deal comes at the affordable price of €5.50, which includes a toasted sandwich, an americano and either crisps or a bar of chocolate.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5GT2BS7GANHJ7HSQINGMHOSF2Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156828},"content":"Laura Hennessy, one of the cafe‘s student employees, describes the atmosphere of the bustling social hub as “very homey”.","type":"text"},{"_id":"A4Q4C3BDH5AYXADH2QLSJ7MOB4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156829},"content":"“I think it’s just a nice vibe,” says Hennessy. “It’s hard to find somewhere in town where you can get for sit-in and it’s still under a tenner; that’s kind of unheard of.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"OF47LFPL3NGJTAXLDRGVUZR3TU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156830},"content":"Ordering lunch in Irish earns hungry students a 15 per cent discount, she adds pointing to a poster with some helpful phrases beside the till. The deal is certainly solid motivation to ramp up the cúpla focail.","type":"text"},{"_id":"EMHFU5IQFBDUZFKEHJNBQSRIMI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156831},"content":"A recent student council motion was passed to set aside €35,000 in emergency funds for the TCDSU cafe. During the same council meeting, €5,000 was allocated to facilitate and support a similar cafe model in Trinity Hall, the college’s designated accommodation for first-year students located in the South Dublin suburb of Dartry.","type":"text"},{"_id":"FSARF2BR75FVTDW2KWV7KR2DTY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156832},"content":"TCDSU communications and marketing officer, Beth Strahan, says that “the prioritisation of academic spaces over student respite areas” is a “huge problem” that needs to be addressed by the college.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ZELRGZG2LZCGTPMXO4PWB6GYNM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156833},"content":"“What used to be a cafe in the Old Stone Building in St James’s Hospital is now a lecture theatre, with health science students having to eat their lunches on the floor... We are having to pressurise [the] college to take student spaces seriously, and have successfully secured a student centre to open in the old Science Gallery in 2026,” Strahan says.","type":"text"},{"_id":"3FY46KW6RZFB5IS7GBXA7T37OY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741876156834},"content":"“This latest funding for the cafe is a step in the right direction to preserve the few student-run spaces that we have on-campus, and continue to provide cheap lunches in Dublin city centre.”","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Ella Sloane"}},"name":"Ella Sloane"}]},"description":{"basic":"From the Galway pantry tackling food waste to breakfast clubs and training restaurants, campus dining is having a moment"},"display_date":"2025-03-18T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Food on campus: Greasy college grub makes way for smart student-led initiatives","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"VPJICSAPO5DYFKJBAYSMEY5GWQ","auth":{"1":"5e166a60c3e8ddf108d36239271b95fc0e31fbc8dd143d21335b81f9db8d24a2"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/VPJICSAPO5DYFKJBAYSMEY5GWQ.png"}},"subtype":"feature","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2025/03/18/food-on-campus-greasy-college-grub-makes-way-for-smart-student-led-initiatives/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"4F5APOAZGZDOPB3HP3QUGWOPXE","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":183,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/5469/podcasts/1dd19b71-df8b-488e-9877-ee89cdbc22fe/versions/1741103153/media/9952f6e371ba44e589fdf97868aa46b1_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/15/john-wilson-theres-more-to-new-zealand-wine-than-marlborough-sauvignon/","content_elements":[{"_id":"FYXCMFOHXBGQ3HC4II2IDDWPZE","additional_properties":{"_id":1649760379023},"content":"We have an ongoing love affair with Marlborough sauvignon in this country. Those lifted aromas, bright fresh fruit and zingy lime acidity are a winning combination that draws us back time after time. It has been 50 years since the first grapevines were planted in Marlborough, and the region has expanded hugely in that period. So what is it that makes this wine so special?","type":"text"},{"_id":"27J5PLRYOZELFNQDWQRFYKK25E","additional_properties":{},"content":"As every visitor is warned, New Zealand has high levels of ultraviolet radiation from the sun that requires the application of sun block on a regular basis. This UV light allows grapes to ripen at lower temperatures, thereby retaining acidity, while the constant wind (“our secret weapon”, one winemaker told me) keeps temperatures down. In addition, the cool night-time temperatures and warm days allow the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly. Marlborough, named “Kei puta te Wairau” or “the place with the hole in the cloud” by the Māori has even less cloud cover and more sunshine than other parts of the country. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"MXHKEVRWKRAK3F7K3WKATJMB6U","additional_properties":{},"content":"However, similar conditions can also be found in other parts of New Zealand and with other grape varieties too. Waipara and Nelson, both a short drive from Marlborough, produce some great white wines, including sauvignon. But New Zealand grows a range of other white grapes (as well as some reds) including Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris and even Albariño. All of these share the same lively acidity and succulent ripe fruit that make them a great food-friendly alternative to sauvignon blanc. One of each grape variety is featured below.","type":"text"},{"_id":"BJ5CRX4GKVACVPOJPQ47IBVXCE","additional_properties":{},"type":"image"},{"_id":"XFEE5QNJWBFQ7MFVMWGXW5LXXA","additional_properties":{},"content":"Deluxe Pinot Gris 2022, Gisborne, New Zealand","type":"header"},{"_id":"ZIXBXXHV5JAHZH3QDTLXJNGBYU","additional_properties":{},"content":"13%, €9.79","type":"header"},{"_id":"UFWESJIF65CSRMNIZQVLUAU5XE","additional_properties":{},"content":"Lightly honeyed with succulent textured nectarines, orchard fruits and vibrant acidity. This would go nicely with Asian prawn dishes. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"N7AKWOKGF5DDJHALGE7KZCJKN4","additional_properties":{},"content":"<i>From Lidl</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"A4TB5ONKJBAIDBP52DNDAUOM2I","additional_properties":{},"type":"image"},{"_id":"PA2WRHSMLRAFBBD4PEROFUH7FA","additional_properties":{},"content":"Lawson’s Dry Hills Riesling 2019, Marlborough, New Zealand","type":"header"},{"_id":"LGMGH7YPWBCWJDDDZ6DBSIDQNI","additional_properties":{},"content":"11.5%, €23","type":"header"},{"_id":"4Q24ZLQQ4REHHLVFZFZ4IGKFBE","additional_properties":{},"content":"Enticing aromas, with crisp red and green apple fruits, lively citrus acidity, a honeyed touch and a lip-smacking dry finish. This would be great with most seafood, creamy cheeses and summery salads.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PBWBBKOFBRCSVGQPHFXCP4E4B4","additional_properties":{},"content":"<i>From wineonline.ie; 64wine, Glasthule and Mount Merrion</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"6VV456V5YNHCLMOY7RCET64RXI","additional_properties":{},"type":"image"},{"_id":"NWROKD3T6BHCFMYFWUMOPQ34ZQ","additional_properties":{},"content":"Albariño 2023, Forrest Estate, Marlborough","type":"header"},{"_id":"YZU6FKT53RF4RMZ4Q3IT45T44Y","additional_properties":{},"content":"12.5%, €23","type":"header"},{"_id":"OTHU2RW2K5EPBFGZPBKKT7276Q","additional_properties":{},"content":"Zesty, snappy green apple and peach with mandarin peel. This would make a very stylish aperitif or a great partner for shellfish. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"WQB5ANFNQRDLTD3V3VX5ZRI6HE","additional_properties":{},"content":"<i>From JNWine.com; Blackrock Cellars; Swans on the Green, Naas; The Old Barracks, Birdhill; K Cellars, Magherafelt, Co Derry; The Vintage Wine Merchant, Antrim</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"JWR2MBNNHJFRHBDEESRNNQB5HE","additional_properties":{},"type":"image"},{"_id":"QCGIEKTS25CH5BPEG27PX34F2Y","additional_properties":{},"content":"Tiritiri Chardonnay 2019 Neudorf, Nelson","type":"header"},{"_id":"ZC6P52EKUZEM3J6KO7D7G4OTY4","additional_properties":{},"content":"13.5%, €29","type":"header"},{"_id":"VHPBGCSMXNEAJPJ6CX5AWIRZUE","additional_properties":{},"content":"A delightful refreshing chardonnay with smooth peach fruits with subtle toasted nuts and a crisp dry finish. Try it with baked salmon or creamy chicken dishes.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HRE2HGFXWRGF5BBUXDTSZSRYRA","additional_properties":{},"content":"<i>From JNwine.com; The Wicklow Wine Co</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"YNYRUPESLJBOXF32EQ2JJNEYFE","additional_properties":{},"content":"","type":"text"},{"_id":"5WWNZKMZQRBMHHFABTYZWYKLUY","additional_properties":{},"content":"","type":"text"},{"_id":"6BXWONI37ZGU5BXPUY6QDM5TL4","additional_properties":{},"content":"","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"John Wilson"}},"name":"John Wilson"}]},"description":{"basic":"Climate conditions allow for great chardonnay, riesling and even albariño from other regions too"},"display_date":"2025-03-15T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"There’s more to New Zealand wine than Marlborough sauvignon","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"5469"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"QEYPGVSABFATDDG6JIBK6GQG2A","auth":{"1":"1a6ce52398e1e7ac3374745d5e2df0290ecf225cbf166fd867caf8a0236e6971"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/QEYPGVSABFATDDG6JIBK6GQG2A.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Drink"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/15/john-wilson-theres-more-to-new-zealand-wine-than-marlborough-sauvignon/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/drink","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Drink"}}}},{"_id":"NRB2M3DGMZDJ5IF5BHNADB5O2M","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":171,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/f0c12510-13f2-4e94-ab29-8619df8c03c1/versions/1741102436/media/0291ca6f7ef68ae2faeab2a589f1255d_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-two-irish-classics-guinness-beef-and-bacon-get-a-modern-day-makeover/","content_elements":[{"_id":"A4KPKQDMDFDT3BWWGWLERLNTXU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014807},"content":"With <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/st-patrick/\" target=\"_blank\">St Patrick’s Day</a> upon us and diplomatic trips to Washington DC and other US cities under way, thoughts turn to the modern take on Irish food in 2025. I’ve taken some inspiration this week from the classic American bar for my first recipe, while upgrading a classic for my second.","type":"text"},{"_id":"RHIRAFGDMRC4RNHLKBKEWAYWV4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014808},"content":"Traditional Irish cuisine is a much discussed topic among those connected with food or hospitality in this country. What is it? What are the dishes? What ingredients do we consider ourselves best in class at? While we still have a long way to go, the interest and conversation around food in Ireland is way ahead of where it was 20 years ago. Through the stellar work of many, down the generations, food culture has never been stronger. We just need to keep the momentum alive. When I began cooking in professional kitchens in 2008, Ireland was home to a single two-star <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/michelin/\" target=\"_blank\">Michelin</a> restaurant, along with seven one-star restaurants. Seventeen years on, and that tally has grown to five two-star restaurants and 18 one-star restaurants. Not to mention countless neighbourhood restaurants, hotels, bistros, cafes, bakeries and festivals that make up a dynamic and creative industry we can all be a part of.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QBIEERUD4RHZ7JKB7LWKTF3MWQ","additional_properties":{"_id":"G2432I6G35FNLHNW4WL5DE32LM"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"WSNKIMMCKBAQHEEUOLD7OA5NOE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014809},"content":"St Patrick’s Day and its “Global Greening” in recent years means that Ireland reaches so many eyes around the world during the festival, shining a light on all that we have to offer on our small island. This week, two recipes with wide appeal that use great Irish ingredients and can be re-created anywhere in the world. The first is a take on the mini burger or slider – bringing a touch of Irish flair to this American staple. In place of the conventional burger patty, I’ve used a piece of Irish beef cheek that has been slow-cooked and glazed in stout and treacle, then topped off with crispy onion rings, a parsley salad and some horseradish cream.","type":"text"},{"_id":"VJWOYJHOQVEJZKLRKTILZPKCSE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014810},"content":"The second recipe is a new take on bacon and cabbage, designed to be prepped in advance and cooked off as a starter or light main course. The recipe takes elements from the Spanish croquette, using a cheesy béchamel as its base to bind together slow-cooked ham hock and cabbage before being highly seasoned. It’s topped with a gribiche sauce, a fancy name for an egg salad, packed with parsley, lemon juice and capers to cut through the richness of the cake. It may not look like your traditional fare, but on the palate it hits all the touchpoints of a plate of bacon, cabbage and parsley sauce.","type":"text"},{"_id":"4ZUCEGKBRNCWLPBJBPFU5T6VKQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014811},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-crispy-bacon-and-cabbage-cakes-with-gribiche/\" target=\"_self\" rel=\"\" title=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-crispy-bacon-and-cabbage-cakes-with-gribiche/\"><b>Recipe: Crispy bacon and cabbage cakes with gribiche</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"PZCIK7SGNREHZAA6K2MVI3QFDU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014812},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/04/mark-moriarty-beef-cheek-sliders-with-crispy-onion-rings/\"><b>Recipe: Beef cheek sliders with crispy onion rings</b></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Mark Moriarty"}},"name":"Mark Moriarty"}]},"description":{"basic":"Two recipes with wide appeal, using great Irish ingredients, that can be re-created anywhere in the world"},"display_date":"2025-03-15T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"St Patrick’s Day feasts: How to make tasty modern versions of two Irish classics","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"YK3C254JP5GJLA2WQKVLATL7SY","auth":{"1":"46b0138f5b7e1fae876725aeeb74327209bf7b1803346ed0224b53326e2232e2"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/YK3C254JP5GJLA2WQKVLATL7SY.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-two-irish-classics-guinness-beef-and-bacon-get-a-modern-day-makeover/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"S3AEJKKOLVCH3EJMQCLQULFDN4","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":362,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/c29c54b5-163a-4d4a-8588-f2fdba411987/versions/1741169127/media/0c67c1b72dcc90dbfb68c5e9c2518213_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/13/first-look-lena-is-the-perfect-restaurant-the-best-fish-dish-i-have-eaten-in-years/","content_elements":[{"_id":"C46GARTZ3RANRBSAP2ZDX66NTM","additional_properties":{"_id":"CULYO42R6JG3FFKY6XGILU4A4Q"},"embed":{"config":{},"id":"review-highlights-58797","url":"/"},"subtype":"review_powerup","type":"custom_embed"},{"_id":"PEZURDVJQVEPRAUU6PWHXFBZJM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899021},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/italy/\" target=\"_self\">Italy</a> is a minefield for the hungry. Even the most promising shopkeeper – the kind who clearly eats well every day – will send you on a wild-goose chase if you don’t ask for a recommendation in the right way. The trick, I discovered, is to nod through their list of trattorias, wait for them to finish, then say, “Ah, yes, but where do you take your mother?” At which point, the real answer arrives, hushed and conspiratorial, as though passing on the co-ordinates to buried treasure.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HNGMZHV2EJGSNOGH5MHOVAOOMA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899022},"content":"A better trick is to be there at the same time as an Italian with impeccable taste and a duty to keep you fed. In this case, Enrico Fantasia (yes, real name) – a Venetian a wine importer, and a fellow who considers cream in carbonara an act of war.","type":"text"},{"_id":"C7FPDR6UCVBNFL3BMB4GUACDKE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741798620482},"content":"At Ristorante Al Covo, plate after plate arrived. Each dish, a pure expression of that morning’s Rialto market haul, fresh from the Venetian lagoon – three or four perfect ingredients, revered like holy relics.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5Q2NRNB6ZVBW7LCIIF43Z4ZMCQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899023},"content":"This steady parade of dishes, one at a time, is for me the finest way to eat Italian food. I adopt this strategy at Lena in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/portobello/\" target=\"_self\">Portobello</a> – formerly Locks, now one of the year’s most anticipated openings, led by Liz Matthews, Simon Barrett and Paul McNamara (all of <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/food-and-drink/restaurant-reviews/uno-mas-review-we-knew-etto-s-sister-restaurant-would-be-great-it-s-perfect-1.3725216\" target=\"_self\">Uno Mas</a> and Etto) – where the only way to launch into the menu of antipasti, primi, secondi, and dolci is by starting with sage and anchovy fritti (€8).","type":"text"},{"_id":"EEZ53D6UKNFWLNO6V26DUS6JOA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899024},"type":"image"},{"_id":"5Q2NRNB6ZVBW7LCIIF43Z4ZMCQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899025},"content":"Two parcels arrive – a sage leaf in spliced anchovy, crisp in golden batter, a burst of umami and salt mellowed by heat. So perfect with a glass of Colomba Bianca, “Vitese”, Grillo (€36.50) from a phenomenal wine list that has been compiled by Barrett and restaurant manager Cian Lynch, who will be familiar to Uno Mas regulars. In fact, you’ll see quite a few familiar faces, including Dovy Stasys, who has worked front of house in Locks since 2020. Already Lena feels like it has been open for years.","type":"text"},{"_id":"SINVFOWAFZEXHB7UCIEQM775XI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899026},"content":"Wild sea bass crudo (€15) from the primi section is an example of exactly why Italy remains undefeated in the business of assembling a few ingredients and making them taste like a revelation. Cured sea bass, blood orange, rosemary and opaque slices of radish – that’s it. But then you taste it – the fresh, firm sea bass, the peppery, earthy crunch of the radish, the oil from the rosemary nudging its way across the acid-sweetness of the blood orange – and the whole thing ties together magically.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DO56IFCEUJGOHMDRCEAZQ2UMAU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899027},"type":"image"},{"_id":"LANBKMVLDVE33GXVKQFXEHZ7DM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899028},"content":"Then, pici cacio e pepe (€16) – flour, water, Pecorino Romano, black pepper – nowhere to hide. The pasta, made in-house using a La Monferrina pasta machine, is thick and chewy, a muscular twirl of dough carrying its emulsified sauce with confidence. A glance around the room and I find that I’m not the only one sweeping a finger across the plate, unwilling to let a single drop of it go.","type":"text"},{"_id":"K3RIXFF6GJHEZMFUXD7YS4ERQQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899029},"type":"image"},{"_id":"LANBKMVLDVE33GXVKQFXEHZ7DM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899030},"content":"The grilled wild halibut (€33) arrives, burnished outside, trembling inside at the suggestion of a knife. A Jerusalem artichoke purée sits beneath it, adding a soft nuttiness, while crisped artichoke brings texture. Tarragon oil slices through with the precision of a lightning strike, while a beautifully balanced, buttery vermouth sauce wraps it in silk. This is the best fish dish I have eaten in years.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5VMGM4J4AREORLXYKKHDWXQ4KE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899031},"content":"And then the veal shin osso buco (€32), a contrast in weight and flavour, the bone standing proud, filled with trembling marrow. The saffron-tinted risotto, each grain distinct, shimmers with butter and the undertones of smoked bone marrow; the gremolata adds a sharp, grassy counterpoint. The slow-cooked veal is still pink inside, still carrying that umami depth, and still full of life. The risotto is al dente, and finishing it is a two-person job.","type":"text"},{"_id":"RRUPORR5GFEX5B5REZB2HAZB6Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1741798620492},"content":"2025 is going to be the hardest year yet for cafes. My salary is two-thirds the amount I was paid in my previous PAYE job","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"SQD26NY6UVERXG5DPN5ZZDS4OQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899032},"content":"The tiramisu (€10), layers of mascarpone, coffee, cocoa, and sponge, is destined to become the signature dish here, like the red wine prunes with mascarpone in Etto and the flan de queso in Uno Mas. It’s deliciously floppy, not cloying. The coffee is sharp, not bitter. The top is dusted with micro-planed chocolate. But it’s the rum baba (€10) that delivers the final, effortless knockout. It is not the usual booze-sodden sponge, but a version so light you could eat it for breakfast. Champagne and new season rhubarb bring a fresh snap of spring.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KQRHHPYH3JA5ZB7NQRYPVBVYGU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899033},"content":"Lena understands seasonality, balance and restraint at an instinctive level. Serious cooking is masked as effortless simplicity. It’s a restaurant so quietly assured in its ability that it makes others feel over-styled and under-thought. It’s not just good – it’s the perfect restaurant.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OXNNXUKOWJA3XGPG3WOXNBVIQM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899034},"content":"Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €160.50.","type":"text"},{"_id":"P2TMUIPNPNDHJEYBWDJKPGQFUY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899035},"content":"<b>The verdict</b> I am in love; this is the perfect restaurant.","type":"text"},{"_id":"BQC4BAB45NERVHTUTHCLCUFQSE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899036},"content":"<b>Food provenance</b> Glenmar, Hannan’s beef, Pigs on the Green, and McNally’s vegetables.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ZDY3MFAZTNAURD3ZOTAQFCNXHI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899037},"content":"<b>Vegetarian options</b> Focaccia, supplì al telefono, buffalo mozzarella, pici cacio e pepe, and pumpkin and ricotta mezzaluna.","type":"text"},{"_id":"W2KFKLUO5NBENOUK45TNIZS3JM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899038},"content":"<b>Wheelchair access</b> Accessible room with no accessible toilet.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KBA5NF3BCRGBTJ37H265DBBMTM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899039},"content":"<b>Music</b> Sault and soul in the background.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Corinna Hardgrave"}},"name":"Corinna Hardgrave"}]},"description":{"basic":"The former Locks in Portobello is so quietly assured that it makes others feel overstyled and underthought"},"display_date":"2025-03-13T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Lena, Portobello review: This is the perfect restaurant, with the best fish dish I have eaten in years","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"32TH7AE7GZF4BKPUINEWZKCT6A","auth":{"1":"881a06d777c3d21cce68f5f29254d4569aecdcbff85117d3ad7d2733c9a1f174"},"focal_point":{"x":2249,"y":1541},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/32TH7AE7GZF4BKPUINEWZKCT6A.JPG"}},"subtype":"review","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Restaurants"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/13/first-look-lena-is-the-perfect-restaurant-the-best-fish-dish-i-have-eaten-in-years/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/restaurants","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Restaurants"}}}}],"count":6779,"_id":"1069ebc27ee6b18b5b2dbc7fef1c9a4d9577762a5c57e908e37144715f9a15a3"},"expires":1742523902986,"lastModified":1742523602796},"{\"feedOffset\":0,\"feedSize\":3,\"query\":\"(taxonomy.primary_section._id:\\\\/food*) AND -(subtype:\\\"Columnist\\\" OR subtype:\\\"Recipe\\\" OR taxonomy.tags.slug:food-and-drink-quiz OR taxonomy.tags.slug:takeaways OR taxonomy.tags.slug:shelf-help OR subtype:\\\"Review\\\" OR subtype:\\\"Opinion\\\" OR subtype:\\\"Feature\\\")\",\"size\":3}":{"data":{"content_elements":[{"_id":"2N2HJQT2BNCXRLWUE7RFUQ7HJE","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":335,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/b444b6a1-bc1a-4277-ae9c-b76dc0768747/versions/1742384387/media/d161f94a195275fd03670b533eb1e036_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2025/03/20/caviar-bump-dublin-food-trend-restaurant-ireland/","content_elements":[{"_id":"XMP3LIJM3BEJJDLRONNN56CBPI","additional_properties":{"_id":1742383176684},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/ireland/\" target=\"_blank\">Ireland</a> is setting itself up for a summer of excess. People are ready to let loose, and caviar bumps are here to accommodate. This latest fad – where a serving of tasty <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/\" target=\"_blank\">fish</a> roe is eaten straight off the back of the hand – has of course been fuelled by social media. A quick search on <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/tiktok/\" target=\"_blank\">TikTok</a> shows more than 1.7 billion views of #caviarbump videos, ranging from tutorials to clips of well-heeled friends triumphantly caviar-fist-bumping. “Those that caviar bump together, stay together,” wrote one user, fist raised, gleaming orbs of fish roe glinting in the light.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JPZTKSMLUFFCZLJ5LAPOTUSHLU","additional_properties":{"_id":1742383176685},"content":"The food trend was birthed fully formed straight from celebrity- and influencer-crowded Manhattan, gradually floating across <a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/06/07/style/caviar-bump.html\"><u>the Atlantic</u></a>, appearing in <a href=\"https://www.standard.co.uk/going-out/foodanddrink/caviar-huns-london-restaurants-ben-mccormack-b1108199.html\"><u>London</u></a> and <a href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/discover/paris-caviar-bump\"><u>Paris</u></a> before finally crossing the Irish Sea to make landfall in Irish restaurants. So far Dublin’s Seafood Cafe, <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/restaurants/review/2024/01/18/allta-review-this-is-going-to-be-my-restaurant-of-the-year/\" target=\"_blank\">Allta</a> and <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/shelbourne-hotel/\" target=\"_blank\">The Shelbourne Hotel</a> have embraced the bump.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PYM5ZST6QJEBLGTZ4NQWP3UEIQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1742383176686},"content":"Despite the swirl of hype and <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/instagram/\" target=\"_blank\">Instagram</a> glitz, the tradition of tasting caviar in a lump on the back of your hand is quite old. People have eaten caviar like this for generations. Historically, communities around the <a href=\"https://www.sohohouse.com/house-notes/issue-006/food-and-drink/caviar-bumps-explained\"><u>Caspian Sea</u></a>, once famed for its wild sturgeon, would sample caviar by placing it directly on the hand as a means of testing quality before purchasing. “It’s a traditional way to let caviar come up to body temperature,” says Niall Sabongi, owner of <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/restaurants/review/2024/12/13/seafood-cafe-restaurant-review-a-sunday-lunch-seafood-feast-is-a-wonderful-thing-especially-at-this-price/\" target=\"_blank\">Seafood Café</a> and founder of Sustainable Seafood Ireland. “You put it on your hand for a few seconds to warm, so you can really taste all its nuances.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"KL6Y6XRXONGTLOM4DS4ES4V34E","additional_properties":{"_id":1742383176687},"type":"image"},{"_id":"C2X2FUBR2NC6FJHNUKPPEYXX5A","additional_properties":{"_id":1742383176688},"content":"There’s a pleasing symmetry to a centuries-old technique finding a second life in a modern, social-media-fuelled world. But the practice may be trivialised, for some, by the brash repurposing of drug slang to describe it. It’s not the first time the language of drugs has been used to describe food. Since the 1980s we have been describing treats like cheese as “crack”, we call chocolate lovers chocoholics. These glib references to illegal substances usually come from communities that rarely face the harsher realities of addiction.","type":"text"},{"_id":"UOUCJWB76BF6VFX6CMZYTXLNK4","additional_properties":{"_id":"C63Q445VOZEL5HWMMNZGIFLO4M"},"content":"Food on campus: Greasy college grub makes way for smart student-led initiatives","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"SDFF5YLVGVBYZEGFVFL4L2DIMU","additional_properties":{"_id":1742383176689},"content":"But gluttony, lust, and intoxication have always formed a triumvirate of sensation. They’re all profoundly sensory experiences that stimulate the same parts of the brain, so the language surrounding our cravings tends to blur the boundary between permissible indulgence and illicit thrill. This means we tend to use the same words and codes to describe them.","type":"text"},{"_id":"LIXJ3QSXEVHEVBKALR3YJ7IQXA","additional_properties":{"_id":1742383176690},"type":"image"},{"_id":"Z3AK2LIW4BGMBN4K6F7AX6EYEM","additional_properties":{"_id":1742383176691},"content":"Transgression itself has always had a special place in the realm of food. St Augustine famously confessed to stealing pears solely for the thrill declaring: <a href=\"https://history.hanover.edu/courses/excerpts/260aug.html\">“It was foul, and I loved it.”</a> From that vantage point, caviar bumps can be seen as the latest iteration of subversive snacking.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OO22QZQKPRGYRGFZ5UCGHESYYU","additional_properties":{"_id":1742383176693},"content":"Some see this as a democratisation of caviar. Once considered the domain of aristocrats and oligarchs, sturgeon eggs are no longer quite so unattainable. Overfishing of wild sturgeon nearly wiped out certain species, prompting widespread restrictions and the cultivation of sustainable sturgeon farms in<a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/06/07/style/caviar-bump.html\"> France, China, Uruguay, and the US</a>. Now, with more stable (and ethically sound) production, the global supply of caviar has expanded, bringing prices down to a level where more people can afford a small taste. That shift in supply has spurred the rise of casual caviar for the not-quite-super-rich.","type":"text"},{"_id":"M6OQT5CG4VAZTO7DBIFI5JXRN4","additional_properties":{"_id":"CMNDOWGK7VG7DG7JGPDNLESCGM"},"content":"Lena, Portobello review: This is the perfect restaurant, with the best fish dish I have eaten in years","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"RZ5IVCUIUZA5HO45CT3HVUO7UE","additional_properties":{"_id":1742383176694},"content":"An early adaptor of the bump in Dublin was Seafood Cafe. Diners can indulge upper crust decadence for €14 while still wearing runners and a T-shirt. You don’t have to shell out hundreds of euro for a full ounce; a single bump, though still pricey, is more manageable and comes with a veneer of exclusivity. Sabongi sees caviar bumps as “highbrow meets lowbrow whimsy” that welcomes curious newcomers who want a small taste rather than “committing to €125 on a whole tin”. Sabongi says, “A quick bump on a Saturday night is a fun, affordable way to see if you really love the stuff.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"4H5NSCDHF5HNDDMDCKDJPKLVLM","additional_properties":{"_id":1742383176695},"type":"image"},{"_id":"NXCD64NT4NAGFHXRQFCJYZVT6U","additional_properties":{"_id":1742383176696},"content":"People who are new to caviar might struggle to differentiate between varieties: Osetra, Beluga, Sevruga, Kaluga, or even Hackleback. Venues such as The Shelbourne now offer caviar bumps to sidestep that confusion by providing a side-by-side tasting option of Asetra and Perle Imperial. Of course, caviar novices might not care about the specifics. They might only want the bragging rights of posting a short video of themselves licking roe off their hand in one of Dublin’s oldest hotels. But for those who do want a deeper appreciation, the comparative tasting can demystify caviar’s aura of grandeur.","type":"text"},{"_id":"CTSKYKKFBBBJZIIZMP2SWEZVJ4","additional_properties":{"_id":1742383176698},"content":"Shelbourne chef Garry Hughes is confident that the allure won’t fade despite growing accessibility potentially cheapening the luxury appeal. “Caviar is a beautiful experience,” Hughes said when I sampled their new bump offerings. They’ll serve a bump or two if that’s what people want to try. They’ll also keep serving it the traditional way, “on buckwheat blinis, with a dollop of sour cream.” There’s room for both.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Shamim de Brún"}]},"description":{"basic":"Yes, you read that correctly. Caviar off the back of the hand is the latest dining fad"},"display_date":"2025-03-20T05:30:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Ireland is setting itself up for a summer of excess: The caviar bump food trend has arrived","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"DMM5NEJJ65GMPG662I5LN6WJFA","auth":{"1":"24b0dcb8f388b2b83cb52efbaaeb4ceeb6cc3d3cd8cc7dabba269eb594d0cc08"},"focal_point":{"x":1477,"y":1290},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/DMM5NEJJ65GMPG662I5LN6WJFA.jpg"}},"subtype":"default","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2025/03/20/caviar-bump-dublin-food-trend-restaurant-ireland/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"G3GPGJ46GVEUPOFZUNPXYRKG5I","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":442,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/18a0ad00-13ba-4bd6-97b0-01694ecb7b13/versions/1741188445/media/81979ccaac0b169e1836e412cb892f03_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/restaurants/2025/03/08/2025-is-going-to-be-the-hardest-year-yet-for-cafes-my-salary-is-two-thirds-the-amount-i-was-paid-in-my-previous-paye-job/","content_elements":[{"_id":"A42R4G3GNZHHTKT7DT2ETEIESQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741109594639},"content":"I read a <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/business/2025/02/18/mixed-messages-on-hospitality-supports/\" target=\"_blank\">headline on an article</a> in The Irish Times recently: “If a 9% VAT rate is so important to viability of hospitality sector, why wait until next January to introduce it?” As the co-owner of an independent bakery and cafe in Kenmare, Co Kerry, I’m all too aware that more than 600 food businesses closed last year after the VAT rate was increased to 13.5 per cent in autumn 2023. Are we now going to watch another 600 businesses close in 2025, as the Government drags its feet on this issue?","type":"text"},{"_id":"LLPJLI6S7RAOJPDOQDL7JLTLEI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741109594640},"content":"I am not being dramatic in saying how this delay will impact small food businesses. For us, the initial reduction back to 9 per cent was a lifeline, not because we would have more money in our pockets, but because the auto-enrolment pension scheme begins on September 30th, 2025. This will mean, as employers, we will be matching the pension contributions that our employees will be making. This is added to the increase in the minimum wage that happened this January, meaning the cost of staffing our business has increased in a way that is becoming increasingly unsustainable. Essentially, the breathing room that the 9 per cent VAT gave meant these increased staff costs could be absorbed.","type":"text"},{"_id":"GGIUS4IHGRH4JETWBLPXZTZQXM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741109594641},"content":"It may have fallen away from the main headlines, but everyone, not just small business owners, still feels the impact of inflation. Inflation may have stabilised, but prices are still creeping up all the time. The only cost that decreased for us in 2024 was when we renegotiated our energy prices, down from the peak they were at during the first years of the war in Ukraine. Just these last two weeks, our regular 2.5-litre bottle of milk was increased by 22 cent, our other dairy supplier has put up the cost of cheeses, and I was warned yesterday by a rep that the cost of chicken breasts will go up with bird flu on the rise, which I’m assuming will also affect egg prices in the near future. This is on the back of news that the coffee harvest was bad in 2024, so bean prices are also going up.","type":"text"},{"_id":"XNZVCGQUUBAU7DUUXWQ3JTWIHM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741109594642},"content":"It was our hope that, even with these increases and the pension levy, the return of the VAT rate to 9 per cent would allow us to keep our prices steady in the cafe. We have a strong local trade that we hugely value, and we have done all we can to absorb price increases. The public needs to be aware the price increases in cafes are not so that the cafe owner makes more money but that the cafe stays in roughly the same financial condition in which it started. However, in an industry where 8 per cent net profit is considered standout (most cafes are averaging 2-3 per cent net profit), it leaves many owners no choice but to either close up shop or put up prices to cover these increasing financial pressures.","type":"text"},{"_id":"LDX3PAHE6NESNKP2XI3I4JHPDE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741109594643},"content":"One Opposition TD, since the forming of the new Government, proposed <a href=\"https://www.pbp.ie/we-should-have-3-more-bank-holidays/\" target=\"_blank\">adding two more public or bank holidays to the year</a>. How removed from reality are these people? I imagine they don’t have any realisation of how a public holiday impacts different industries. When I worked in an office environment, you got no extra day’s salary; rather the office was closed for the day, and you were expected to make up whatever work was missed on the day it was closed, making zero impact to wage costs for the business.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5IMKPAHSBVG5XDU7A5KJJJ7FZY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741439376297},"content":"Pending 9% VAT rate for food and catering sectors to cost €675m","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"3VORMRIOUZGM3COUHR4I6LJPI4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741439376298},"content":"As I understand it, in cafes and restaurants, and I can only assume retail, any employee who has worked “40 hours in the previous five weeks” before a public holiday is entitled to either double pay if they are working, or an extra day’s pay, if not. Last summer, in the peak tourist season, we had a staff of 22. Paying 22 staff an extra day’s pay amounts to somewhere between €2,500 and €3,000. It essentially means, despite the public seeing our busy premises and thinking the cafe is making “a killing”, our goal on a bank holiday weekend, as cafe owners, is to make enough sales, not so we make extra profit, but simply to cover this bill. In summer we do; in winter we don’t.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DGIWA4X6GZCBNHGGEHMW7HYB5A","additional_properties":{"_id":1741109594644},"content":"The reason this TD proposed extra holidays was because other countries in the EU have two more holidays than us. With that logic, why don’t we take on France’s higher tax rate, or Italy’s average industrial wage, which is far lower than our own? I’m not sure we should be looking to these EU economies with near-stagnant growth for inspiration.","type":"text"},{"_id":"BCQIB56WKZDXFKAIJFGPT7FEZQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741439376300},"content":"This is the reality: my salary in 2024 as joint owner/manager of a business that employed up to 22 staff was two-thirds the amount I was paid in my previous PAYE job, where I was a sales representative with no staff reporting to me. Given the responsibility and stress of paying this volume of wages in an environment that was growing ever more financially hostile, my husband and I decided the only path forward for our sanity was not to grow our business any more, but to consolidate. We sold our second premises and now have a staff of 12. You can thank the Government for that, for increasing costs on business directly with their policies, which are anti-entrepreneurship, while also refusing to challenge any big suppliers on their pricing.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QLHXMCTHAJAMFO7HLTTEEHAWFM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741109594645},"content":"To this day, we have no idea – not just as business owners but as consumers – if the inflation that has been put upon us is due to real-world financial costs or if it’s simply a case of price gouging. Other countries have completed studies, and it has been abundantly clear that much of inflation has been due to a cash grab by big business. If our farmers and small producers have never been paid less by the middleman, to a point where they need grants and subsidies to avoid bankruptcy, then how on Earth are the prices for consumers at the other end higher than they’ve ever been?","type":"text"},{"_id":"5LPIIRSSCFEOJLDGZIHYOELKGA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741439376302},"content":"How does VAT in Ireland compare with countries across Europe? A guide to a contentious tax","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"LSIZDRHY6NB65EODIMKUB2XRK4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741109594646},"content":"When the 9 per cent VAT kicks in, the Government will be essentially a year into governance; 20 per cent of their term will have been used up. Because of the delay, 2025 is going to be the hardest year yet for food SMEs in this cost-of-living crisis. In among all this there has been scandal after scandal of the Government wasting our money, notably the OPW, and that fills me with fury when I pay the colossal PAYE and VAT bills for our business and its employees each month. It’s insulting to every taxpayer. What has been more important to our elected representatives this new year is their egos, wasting time and butting heads in the Dáil, squabbling like children over speaking time, when they should be implementing policies the country is screaming out for.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DKLT3V4KNVFKBJMP3HFYUK2WRQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741109594647},"content":"","type":"text"},{"_id":"Q3C7CHPODFCSNDO2MKMRAHIFAU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741109594648},"content":"This Government would want to wake up. They have two options before them: to start listening to regular Irish people and make tangible change, or pray to God that somebody doesn’t appear with even an a semblance of competence or – worse still – no competence but just charisma, because they will be wiped out in the next election otherwise.","type":"text"},{"_id":"MHNBLZ45T5F5HLUZFJR4EVJU3M","additional_properties":{"_id":1741109594649},"content":"<i>Jamie O’Connell is a writer who, with his husband, John Hallissey, owns Bean & Batch in Kenmare, Co Kerry </i><a href=\"https://www.instagram.com/beanandbatchkenmare/?hl=en\"><i>@beanandbatchkenmare on Instagram</i></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Jamie O'Connell"}]},"description":{"basic":"More than 600 food businesses have closed last year; I blame government’s anti-entrepreneur policies"},"display_date":"2025-03-08T06:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"2025 is going to be the hardest year yet for cafes. My salary is two-thirds the amount I was paid in my previous PAYE job","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"HFOHCZOO2ZDWJZRNS3RGTOWDB4","auth":{"1":"bb9adfbc4ed0e3f95ca4bca8dcf1209ca6724e902fd8aa07d625d8edea42e5c7"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/HFOHCZOO2ZDWJZRNS3RGTOWDB4.jpg"}},"subtype":"default","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Restaurants"},{"name":"Business"},{"name":"Economy"},{"name":"Opinion"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/restaurants/2025/03/08/2025-is-going-to-be-the-hardest-year-yet-for-cafes-my-salary-is-two-thirds-the-amount-i-was-paid-in-my-previous-paye-job/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/restaurants","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Restaurants"}}}},{"_id":"VJ6GAHWKRJCRXJUFWSFY3GT4QI","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":338,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/e13d5323-a2cf-4c11-882a-b02df20c1925/versions/1741359683/media/8a84cd88f812d7bff865df0e45d6edea_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/restaurants/2025/03/07/wild-goose-grill-to-close-the-dining-out-market-has-become-too-expensive-at-the-mid-level/","content_elements":[{"_id":"HMRIRCULU5E7NJQOC4J63TRQOM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741356752418},"content":"Kevin McMahon of <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/ranelagh\" target=\"_blank\">Ranelagh</a>’s <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/restaurant\" target=\"_blank\">Wild Goose Grill</a> says when a one-time offer came to buy out the lease on his smart neighbourhood restaurant, business logic dictated only one outcome. “We’ve had a great 17 years, but it’s very difficult to envisage making a profit in the next year or two. It was an inevitable moment brought forward by the building changeover.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"KMCJ3PWIBNH25GC3Q3RYWE5Z6E","additional_properties":{"_id":1741356752419},"content":"The decision came about after the building on Sandford Road, where the popular restaurant has an upstairs premises, was sold last year. The new owner, Grand Slam Bars, a consortium led by publican Noel Anderson and former Irish rugby internationals Rob Kearney, Dave Kearney, Jamie Heaslip and Sean O’Brien, bought the premises (including McSorley’s Pub at ground level) for €5.5 million.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DE5L3NUKTVBYXCAXZHHD3KVFIQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741356752420},"content":"Handing over to Anderson and the team on good terms, McMahon says this is a sign of the times for smart dining restaurants which have become unaffordable in the current climate. “The dining out market is becoming too expensive at our level. When I saw main courses move into the €40-plus level, that was a big eye-opener. We can see them move to €50 pretty quickly. The shift is towards casual affordable dining, or very high end fine dining.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"BRITCSPP3ZEWZIHYBTPLCGHDXE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741356752421},"content":"Grand Slam Bars plan to revamp the upstairs restaurant and make it into a seven-days-a-week food, drinks and events space. McMahon sees the logic: “The idea of bringing a large group out to a restaurant for a celebration is too expensive now, but you can take a large room in a pub, put on finger food and cocktails and put a few grand behind the bar – that makes sense.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"NTTQS7HX4VAGTG5I5RLTJKTPJA","subtype":"pullquote","type":"quote"},{"_id":"Y32FQYE7QNBCNMZKNXP343AJNA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741356752422},"content":"McMahon opened the Wild Goose in 2008 after departing Ely Wine Bar. The 90-seater restaurant quickly garnered a loyal following for its high quality fare under chef Ionut Bogdan Rosoiu, and its extensive 300-bottle wine list was among the best in the city. Once the go-to diningroom for well-heeled denizens of Dublin 6, in recent years the area has seen an influx of more informal quality restaurants including Host, Gigi’s, Nightmarket, The Butcher Grill and more recently Mexican Suertudo replacing Dilingers.","type":"text"},{"_id":"2PHE5MDFMZDIZB5OTT3NHNTRNQ","additional_properties":{"_id":"6JSIU7IBX5EU7E4XPKCBMHL5MM"},"content":"‘We tried everything’: Ranelagh’s Exchequer Wine Bar announces sudden closure","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"7PAG2TJH4RABZKPHA6YHTQ7GSA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741356752423},"content":"McMahon says the demographic of the suburb has changed substantially. “When we started there were lots of people in their 50s and above, with a bit of money, no mortgage, kids grown up who were happy to dine out midweek. Now we’re seeing a lot of young families with big mortgages who will only ever dine out on the weekend.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"H5PURNG2JVBINKTF2W4KAUXW2U","additional_properties":{"_id":1741356752424},"content":"Changing living and working patterns have also had an impact. “Ranelagh is a wonderful village but a lot of older residents who would be our customers decamp for a very long summer to Portugal, Spain and the west of Ireland. Remote working has had such an impact there’s little onus to return even occasionally. People can run their businesses from these second homes for long periods.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"FNEGSJZ2JRGCRHFTF3JBP6HMDQ","subtype":"pullquote","type":"quote"},{"_id":"D7V6NH2QEVA55NCD5KLCMQS3DY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741356752425},"content":"The impact of Covid and overhanging warehoused debt has been a contributing factor in the closure of many restaurants recently, but McMahon says they were lucky in that they remained solvent throughout. “Bills have skyrocketed since Ukraine war began, and I think the utility companies have got away with murder in their pursuit of small businesses while the Government has done little to intervene. There was a rebate at one point, but it was little use after allowing the utilities to rob us in the first place.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"ERO3ORATKNAHNJBOD4TK2TJH4U","additional_properties":{"_id":1741356752426},"content":"Another tipping point was the Rugby World Cup in 2023 when thousands of Irish travelled to France for a series of matches. The impact on Ranelagh was significant: “So much money left the city for all of those weekends, and when they came back they were tired and broke. That had a huge and unexpected effect on the business.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"KR22DWLPSBH2XAQ7OALZUJVLX4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741356752427},"content":"McMahon says the decision to close now makes sense. “We were at a crossroads where we had to put money back into the business. Last time we had done so was when we opened in 2008 and invested our life savings. We made that money back quickly. But to invest heavily now, given my age and diminished profit margins the timeline to get a return could be 15 years with no guarantee you’d ever see the money again.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"MLUWLCV7FFF3XB6XSQDJ5774DI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741356752428},"content":"McMahon says he will take a short break after March and while he has ideas there are no immediate plans. The Wild Goose was originally envisaged as a casual dining wine bar when it first opened, but when they needed to put linen tablecloths over worn pine tables it suddenly made the restaurant much smarter and they quickly had to pivot to full a la carte dining. Any new venture will likely revert to a casual model. “My logic would be to flip the drink to food ratio. Where we currently do about 70 per cent food, 30 per cent bar, the preference would be 70 per cent bar. Something like a wine bar, where you have less labour, less waste.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"VJ54MA3EWBBCPJ6PEBYP274N2Y","additional_properties":{"_id":1741356752429},"content":"The closure of the Wild Goose follows closely on the heels of the closure last month of another popular Ranelagh local, The Exchequer Wine bar. Owner Peter Rock reluctantly decided to close its doors after 17 years, unable to keep up with post-pandemic warehoused tax debt and soaring costs of wages, utilities and food.","type":"text"},{"_id":"IIHDOUPVHBCVLMHMKDG2I7ZMDU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741356752430},"content":"The Wild Goose will remain open to March 29th, and vouchers can be redeemed up to that date.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Madeleine Lyons"}},"name":"Madeleine Lyons"}]},"description":{"basic":"Owner of popular Ranelagh restaurant says smart dining restaurants have become unaffordable"},"display_date":"2025-03-07T14:56:18.744Z","headlines":{"basic":"Wild Goose Grill in Ranelagh to close: ‘The dining out market is becoming too expensive at the mid level’","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"EFT7K2BWTVOM5BWKHJRAGSVPNI","auth":{"1":"3e700dc8a96191804976b3dee1b13acab77ed8aa552e9ca2e77b94caf2b931db"},"focal_point":{"x":1675,"y":935},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/EFT7K2BWTVOM5BWKHJRAGSVPNI.jpg"}},"subtype":"default","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Restaurants"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/restaurants/2025/03/07/wild-goose-grill-to-close-the-dining-out-market-has-become-too-expensive-at-the-mid-level/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/restaurants","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Restaurants"}}}}],"count":2229,"_id":"d769a3bb3c6d33ca8efbb9583e3ee64d8f1ca29b1801fcb02ae7ceaabbd87ca4"},"expires":1742524033864,"lastModified":1742523733309},"{\"arc-site\":\"irishtimes\",\"offset\":0,\"query\":\"(credits.by.slug:\\\"mark-moriarty\\\") AND (subtype:\\\"Columnist\\\")\",\"size\":5}":{"data":{"_id":"1340de5e222d575eb5dd4d3ee38ba2171f381c1fcfbc6e129f63c788e3a1954d","content_elements":[{"_id":"NRB2M3DGMZDJ5IF5BHNADB5O2M","canonical_url":"/food/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-two-irish-classics-guinness-beef-and-bacon-get-a-modern-day-makeover/","credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Mark Moriarty"}},"image":{"auth":{"1":"407a2d5f0f0acd290afc38f29841fb9033537985044b7df958b1406c45658f41"},"url":"https://s3.amazonaws.com/arc-authors/irishtimes/517fb72e-23c6-474e-8804-21b4ecb8d5eb.png"},"name":"Mark Moriarty","slug":"mark-moriarty"}]},"headlines":{"basic":"St Patrick’s Day feasts: How to make tasty modern versions of two Irish classics"},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"YK3C254JP5GJLA2WQKVLATL7SY","auth":{"1":"46b0138f5b7e1fae876725aeeb74327209bf7b1803346ed0224b53326e2232e2"},"url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/YK3C254JP5GJLA2WQKVLATL7SY.jpg"}},"website_url":"/food/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-two-irish-classics-guinness-beef-and-bacon-get-a-modern-day-makeover/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"VV5I3HYO4JCYTGQEYA3FHXK3ME","canonical_url":"/food/2025/03/08/mark-moriarty-two-dessert-classics-one-with-a-modern-makeover-the-other-unaltered-perfection/","credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Mark Moriarty"}},"image":{"auth":{"1":"407a2d5f0f0acd290afc38f29841fb9033537985044b7df958b1406c45658f41"},"url":"https://s3.amazonaws.com/arc-authors/irishtimes/517fb72e-23c6-474e-8804-21b4ecb8d5eb.png"},"name":"Mark Moriarty","slug":"mark-moriarty"}]},"headlines":{"basic":"Two dessert classics - one with a modern makeover, the other unaltered perfection"},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"OSOPDNTF3FCJHIKCDA7AKPAUQY","auth":{"1":"fa59a571daa8e052be0012b4b16f8bb6ebc2228fb29f8995ed8500d6d05735a5"},"focal_point":{"x":1947,"y":1488},"url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/OSOPDNTF3FCJHIKCDA7AKPAUQY.jpg"}},"website_url":"/food/2025/03/08/mark-moriarty-two-dessert-classics-one-with-a-modern-makeover-the-other-unaltered-perfection/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"GWXDJRTJGJGULEKLAGSHLS26HM","canonical_url":"/food/2025/03/01/schnitzel-and-scandinavian-meatballs-to-liven-up-your-midweek-menu/","credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Mark Moriarty"}},"image":{"auth":{"1":"407a2d5f0f0acd290afc38f29841fb9033537985044b7df958b1406c45658f41"},"url":"https://s3.amazonaws.com/arc-authors/irishtimes/517fb72e-23c6-474e-8804-21b4ecb8d5eb.png"},"name":"Mark Moriarty","slug":"mark-moriarty"}]},"headlines":{"basic":"Midweek chic: Schnitzel and Scandinavian meatballs to liven up your menu"},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"3HPXGBOHURGLROQFUBYYOQS4JI","auth":{"1":"a67be0c75dd0b8a0ae758f4c6aba242b612f9bcc446b8a716899b17736ea444a"},"focal_point":{"x":2620,"y":1806},"url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/3HPXGBOHURGLROQFUBYYOQS4JI.jpg"}},"website_url":"/food/2025/03/01/schnitzel-and-scandinavian-meatballs-to-liven-up-your-midweek-menu/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"GJMQPPROB5HY3EWNOJ52HLU6KY","canonical_url":"/food/2025/02/22/mark-moriarty-two-simple-and-tasty-pork-dishes-and-an-air-fryer-hack-for-perfect-crackling/","credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Mark Moriarty"}},"image":{"auth":{"1":"407a2d5f0f0acd290afc38f29841fb9033537985044b7df958b1406c45658f41"},"url":"https://s3.amazonaws.com/arc-authors/irishtimes/517fb72e-23c6-474e-8804-21b4ecb8d5eb.png"},"name":"Mark Moriarty","slug":"mark-moriarty"}]},"headlines":{"basic":"Two simple and tasty pork dishes with an air-fryer hack for perfect crackling"},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"YMKSOULJNNBAPJL766DAF7K3GU","auth":{"1":"82ecd19d60bd64ccee87594eb1a412b9b4385fc5a4daa2198563c63ddc7f1337"},"url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/YMKSOULJNNBAPJL766DAF7K3GU.jpg"}},"website_url":"/food/2025/02/22/mark-moriarty-two-simple-and-tasty-pork-dishes-and-an-air-fryer-hack-for-perfect-crackling/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"P7X5LF2KZBC7NGQHX2JS6LQHAY","canonical_url":"/food/2025/02/08/mark-moriarty-nothing-says-i-love-you-like-steak-and-oozing-chocolate-fondants/","credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Mark Moriarty"}},"image":{"auth":{"1":"407a2d5f0f0acd290afc38f29841fb9033537985044b7df958b1406c45658f41"},"url":"https://s3.amazonaws.com/arc-authors/irishtimes/517fb72e-23c6-474e-8804-21b4ecb8d5eb.png"},"name":"Mark Moriarty","slug":"mark-moriarty"}]},"headlines":{"basic":"Valentine’s Day recipes: Nothing says ‘I love you’ like steak and oozing chocolate fondants"},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"N3KBSHOLC5HW3N4LWLWLXQ43GA","auth":{"1":"3a8f6afe5355cbaaf5fe36c1034a64793b204b27fcbee7642ce737257af14870"},"focal_point":{"x":3417,"y":2451},"url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/N3KBSHOLC5HW3N4LWLWLXQ43GA.jpg"}},"website_url":"/food/2025/02/08/mark-moriarty-nothing-says-i-love-you-like-steak-and-oozing-chocolate-fondants/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","name":"Food"}}}}]},"expires":1742524033879,"lastModified":1742523733336},"{\"feedOffset\":0,\"feedSize\":5,\"offset\":0,\"query\":\"(credits.by.slug:\\\"mark-moriarty\\\") AND (subtype:\\\"Columnist\\\")\",\"size\":5}":{"data":{"content_elements":[{"_id":"NRB2M3DGMZDJ5IF5BHNADB5O2M","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":171,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/f0c12510-13f2-4e94-ab29-8619df8c03c1/versions/1741102436/media/0291ca6f7ef68ae2faeab2a589f1255d_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-two-irish-classics-guinness-beef-and-bacon-get-a-modern-day-makeover/","content_elements":[{"_id":"A4KPKQDMDFDT3BWWGWLERLNTXU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014807},"content":"With <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/st-patrick/\" target=\"_blank\">St Patrick’s Day</a> upon us and diplomatic trips to Washington DC and other US cities under way, thoughts turn to the modern take on Irish food in 2025. I’ve taken some inspiration this week from the classic American bar for my first recipe, while upgrading a classic for my second.","type":"text"},{"_id":"RHIRAFGDMRC4RNHLKBKEWAYWV4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014808},"content":"Traditional Irish cuisine is a much discussed topic among those connected with food or hospitality in this country. What is it? What are the dishes? What ingredients do we consider ourselves best in class at? While we still have a long way to go, the interest and conversation around food in Ireland is way ahead of where it was 20 years ago. Through the stellar work of many, down the generations, food culture has never been stronger. We just need to keep the momentum alive. When I began cooking in professional kitchens in 2008, Ireland was home to a single two-star <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/michelin/\" target=\"_blank\">Michelin</a> restaurant, along with seven one-star restaurants. Seventeen years on, and that tally has grown to five two-star restaurants and 18 one-star restaurants. Not to mention countless neighbourhood restaurants, hotels, bistros, cafes, bakeries and festivals that make up a dynamic and creative industry we can all be a part of.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QBIEERUD4RHZ7JKB7LWKTF3MWQ","additional_properties":{"_id":"G2432I6G35FNLHNW4WL5DE32LM"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"WSNKIMMCKBAQHEEUOLD7OA5NOE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014809},"content":"St Patrick’s Day and its “Global Greening” in recent years means that Ireland reaches so many eyes around the world during the festival, shining a light on all that we have to offer on our small island. This week, two recipes with wide appeal that use great Irish ingredients and can be re-created anywhere in the world. The first is a take on the mini burger or slider – bringing a touch of Irish flair to this American staple. In place of the conventional burger patty, I’ve used a piece of Irish beef cheek that has been slow-cooked and glazed in stout and treacle, then topped off with crispy onion rings, a parsley salad and some horseradish cream.","type":"text"},{"_id":"VJWOYJHOQVEJZKLRKTILZPKCSE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014810},"content":"The second recipe is a new take on bacon and cabbage, designed to be prepped in advance and cooked off as a starter or light main course. The recipe takes elements from the Spanish croquette, using a cheesy béchamel as its base to bind together slow-cooked ham hock and cabbage before being highly seasoned. It’s topped with a gribiche sauce, a fancy name for an egg salad, packed with parsley, lemon juice and capers to cut through the richness of the cake. It may not look like your traditional fare, but on the palate it hits all the touchpoints of a plate of bacon, cabbage and parsley sauce.","type":"text"},{"_id":"4ZUCEGKBRNCWLPBJBPFU5T6VKQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014811},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-crispy-bacon-and-cabbage-cakes-with-gribiche/\" target=\"_self\" rel=\"\" title=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-crispy-bacon-and-cabbage-cakes-with-gribiche/\"><b>Recipe: Crispy bacon and cabbage cakes with gribiche</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"PZCIK7SGNREHZAA6K2MVI3QFDU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741706014812},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/04/mark-moriarty-beef-cheek-sliders-with-crispy-onion-rings/\"><b>Recipe: Beef cheek sliders with crispy onion rings</b></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Mark Moriarty"}},"name":"Mark Moriarty"}]},"description":{"basic":"Two recipes with wide appeal, using great Irish ingredients, that can be re-created anywhere in the world"},"display_date":"2025-03-15T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"St Patrick’s Day feasts: How to make tasty modern versions of two Irish classics","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"YK3C254JP5GJLA2WQKVLATL7SY","auth":{"1":"46b0138f5b7e1fae876725aeeb74327209bf7b1803346ed0224b53326e2232e2"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/YK3C254JP5GJLA2WQKVLATL7SY.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2025/03/15/mark-moriarty-two-irish-classics-guinness-beef-and-bacon-get-a-modern-day-makeover/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"VV5I3HYO4JCYTGQEYA3FHXK3ME","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":206,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/a77bd92d-c8c9-47a7-9edb-b80dd40e480f/versions/1740572155/media/2663e8f011c13734f75c9e454dc16f7b_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2025/03/08/mark-moriarty-two-dessert-classics-one-with-a-modern-makeover-the-other-unaltered-perfection/","content_elements":[{"_id":"YBQM27XUDNGZJAN37SHX33WYXI","additional_properties":{"_id":1740504797863},"content":"This week a reimagining of a dessert everyone will have tasted at some point in their lives, and introducing a pancake recipe from the classic repertoire. When it comes to reimagining a crumble, there really aren’t many places to go. A crumble relies on heavily caramelised biscuit topping, seasonal stewed fruit with the right balance of sweetness and acidity and a creamy accompaniment, namely custard or ice cream. This format is foolproof, standing the test of time for a reason. When considering how to make this interesting, I looked at our habits at home in recent years. This may resonate with some people, others, not so much.","type":"text"},{"_id":"CGCLBCMJJRG3NCA3YR7VVCAKWY","additional_properties":{"_id":1740504797864},"content":"Dessert has become a rarity most weeks. In fact, a plated dessert is usually a treat reserved for a special occasion. We do, however, love a cup of tea and a sweet treat when we finally get to the couch in the evening. This ranges from a square of chocolate to a full wedge of tiramisu. Always with a strong cup of tea, it’s usually a moment of bliss in a busy schedule.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HXJ6K2OEVBG2DPZFQAWFOJ22MQ","additional_properties":{"_id":"SDI5GV6R4NAXVN4XBFMKIHQ4QA"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"ZHB2RSWKOFHGBFCJC7Q4GZFQEU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741086249917},"content":"Now, judging by the popularity of previous recipes such as <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/2024/11/09/mark-moriarty-these-almond-bakewell-and-carrot-cake-traybakes-are-supremely-comforting-and-hard-to-mess-up/\">almond Bakewell traybake</a> and <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/01/11/tiramisu-brownies/\">tiramisu brownies</a>, we aren’t the only family reaching for a moment of sweet release midweek. So this week I decided to turn the apple crumble into a smaller bite, designed to be taken with a cup of tea. No fancy equipment needed, the old reliable cupcake mould will do just fine – a piece of kit that most homes have lying around. The key here is to cut a triangle out of the pastry discs before lining our moulds, think Pac-man when it comes to shapes. This allows for a nice even lining that acts as the cauldron for a good spoonful of caramelised apple compote. I cook the crumble topping separately to get an even colour and add this at the end. A vanilla custard is decadent and a great recipe to have up your sleeve. These can be baked ahead of time and kept in an airtight container for up to five days. Perfect weekend baking, the results of which can be savoured throughout the week.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ZC3HULWCBBDTLNUWMZSHARLL44","additional_properties":{"_id":"O2D5AQVI5BE5FC5ESKKHULMSO4"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"ZDTN2HMZFJGVXJMUR346OI7NGE","additional_properties":{"_id":1740504797865},"content":"At the other end of the scale, I’m showcasing a simple pancake dessert that traces its roots to France in the late 1800s. The exact details are disputed, but the first crêpes suzette was more than likely created for honourable guests or royalty. Some sources say it was named in honour of a guest of the Prince of Wales on a visit to Monte Carlo’s famed Café de Paris. In any case, it involves a delicious combination of cooking crêpes in a sauce made from caramel, butter, orange juice and liqueur – either Grand Marnier or Cointreau. I first came across it in the training restaurant of Cathal Brugha Street’s catering college, where it was flambeed tableside and served using a spoon and fork. Sadly, many crêpes lost their lives on the treacherous journey from pan to plate on the northside of Dublin city. Like most recipes that have survived this long, they work, are delicious to eat and generally put a smile on people’s faces.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JDXKIAEZUJHBNPTQRROH3X2OXA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741086249919},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/08/mark-moriarty-crepes-suzette/\"><b>Recipe: Crêpes suzette</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"C2KPZ7JGG5G4LGOLNYHSFNTCIA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741086249920},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/08/mark-moriarty-mini-apple-crumble-pies-with-vanilla-custard/\" target=\"_self\"><b>Recipe: </b></a><a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/08/mark-moriarty-mini-apple-crumble-pies-with-vanilla-custard/\"><b>Mini apple crumble pies with vanilla custard</b></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Mark Moriarty"}},"name":"Mark Moriarty"}]},"description":{"basic":"Apple crumble for teatime scoffing, and crêpes suzette in all its boozy glory"},"display_date":"2025-03-08T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Two dessert classics - one with a modern makeover, the other unaltered perfection","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"OSOPDNTF3FCJHIKCDA7AKPAUQY","auth":{"1":"fa59a571daa8e052be0012b4b16f8bb6ebc2228fb29f8995ed8500d6d05735a5"},"focal_point":{"x":1947,"y":1488},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/OSOPDNTF3FCJHIKCDA7AKPAUQY.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2025/03/08/mark-moriarty-two-dessert-classics-one-with-a-modern-makeover-the-other-unaltered-perfection/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"GWXDJRTJGJGULEKLAGSHLS26HM","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":182,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/6fa2c8f6-1f9c-43fa-8df5-25c07b24870c/versions/1739969712/media/c02a51038d58a48a05514a9a632884a8_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2025/03/01/schnitzel-and-scandinavian-meatballs-to-liven-up-your-midweek-menu/","content_elements":[{"_id":"ZT2UAPQ4PNBOJFVDGKUSBKA5IA","additional_properties":{"_id":1740742227260},"content":"“Midweek chic” is how I describe this week’s recipes. This is a term that I would use to describe a lot of my food, a fine balance between restaurant technique and tips, and the practicality everyone needs to cook at home.","type":"text"},{"_id":"N3PC2M54O5DHVF5IJCBYWYBTSU","additional_properties":{"_id":1740742227261},"content":"On a recent episode of the <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/louis-theroux/\" target=\"_blank\">Louis Theroux</a> podcast, <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/jamie-oliver/\" target=\"_blank\">Jamie Oliver</a> spoke eloquently about the magic of <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/\" target=\"_blank\">recipes</a> created by chefs for people at home. In his view, chefs will often have to blur the lines of authenticity in regional dishes in favour of using accessible ingredients and approachable techniques. This can often lead to flak from critics, with Jamie arguing that encouraging people to “give it a go” and get stuck into the kitchen outweighs the watering down of often centuries-old recipes.","type":"text"},{"_id":"7PUWRUFC7ZD4JEO2VZH6PF6XWE","additional_properties":{"_id":1740742227262},"content":"I would tend to agree with him. There will always be a time and place for world class, authentic cuisine. But this is why we pay big money to go to restaurants. When feeding the masses at home, stick with these interpretations for delicious, practical cooking.","type":"text"},{"_id":"IASWO7WMXNEV3OFPMIG6DJSOQM","additional_properties":{"_id":1740742227263},"content":"This week, midweek chic introduces a new way to use mince, and a simple process for bulking up a chicken breast, adding its own egg for good measure.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KVRZ4RUJR5HFBCM3VX3V4GH6AQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1740742227264},"content":"First up, Scandinavian meatballs, cooked in an acidic cream sauce with pickled cucumbers, dill and mash. You may be familiar with a replica version in ubiquitous Swedish store <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/ikea/\" target=\"_blank\">Ikea</a> – rest assured these have added chic. Key elements include adding milk-soaked breadcrumbs to the meatballs for that softened texture and finishing the sauce with a generous spoonful of wholegrain mustard and a squeeze of lemon juice.","type":"text"},{"_id":"NIOOHYJM5ZCTLGBFCCWWPFKPDA","additional_properties":{"_id":1740742227265},"type":"image"},{"_id":"K72CPZ7TUBEJNHDG53COJQCUOI","additional_properties":{"_id":1740742227266},"content":"The mince mixture also uses half beef and half pork mince to balance the fat content, while allspice and white pepper bring the Scandi influence to proceedings. Pickled cucumber is a handy all-round recipe to have up your sleeve for packing a punch into lots of salads and dishes.","type":"text"},{"_id":"LLIWKFNLQVDG3E2EFRTB7P6GNA","additional_properties":{"_id":1740742227267},"content":"The schnitzel is a traditional dish with its roots in German and Austrian cuisine that has travelled around the world. It involves pounding a meat, usually poultry or pork, and covering in breadcrumbs before slowly frying in butter. Apart from the obvious positives of frying meat in butter, the process of lightly pounding and crumbing a meat offers more bang for your buck without compromising on flavour.","type":"text"},{"_id":"VCFL5Y4ZFZEWHNRJ45QMEXXOW4","additional_properties":{"_id":1740742227268},"type":"image"},{"_id":"TRN5MDPNUFCRFDJYPHV5GVEBUA","additional_properties":{"_id":1740742227269},"content":"This recipe includes a simple fried egg and some garlic butter (which goes well with everything). Between the butter, egg and breadcrumbs the dish will become quite rich. To counteract this add a wedge of lemon for squeezing, and a heavy handful of wholegrain mustard to the creamed leeks on the side.","type":"text"},{"_id":"T4KZNMSNEFBYXBUHVZTJ6TM7JY","additional_properties":{"_id":1740742227270},"content":"Achievable recipes to add some spark to your midweek, with a sprinkling of chic on the side.","type":"text"},{"_id":"W6TYALTPHZBCTGCKQVDRFT2I7M","additional_properties":{"_id":1740742227271},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/01/chicken-schnitzel-with-fried-egg-garlic-butter-and-creamed-leeks/\" title=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/01/chicken-schnitzel-with-fried-egg-garlic-butter-and-creamed-leeks/\"><b>Recipe: Chicken schnitzel with fried egg, garlic butter and creamed leeks</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"MTV4XVGCURBGVDN4ER74WM5UVE","additional_properties":{"_id":1740742227272},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/03/01/scandinavian-meatballs-with-pickled-cucumber-dill-and-mash/\" target=\"_self\"><b>Recipe: Scandinavian meatballs with pickled cucumber, dill and mash</b></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Mark Moriarty"}},"name":"Mark Moriarty"}]},"description":{"basic":"Two classic recipes that are both economical and easily elevated with a cheffy twist or two"},"display_date":"2025-03-01T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Midweek chic: Schnitzel and Scandinavian meatballs to liven up your menu","native":"Mark Moriarty: Schnitzel and meatballs to liven up your midweek menu"},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"3HPXGBOHURGLROQFUBYYOQS4JI","auth":{"1":"a67be0c75dd0b8a0ae758f4c6aba242b612f9bcc446b8a716899b17736ea444a"},"focal_point":{"x":2620,"y":1806},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/3HPXGBOHURGLROQFUBYYOQS4JI.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2025/03/01/schnitzel-and-scandinavian-meatballs-to-liven-up-your-midweek-menu/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"GJMQPPROB5HY3EWNOJ52HLU6KY","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":193,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/bbc9896e-c74e-4c35-8cf4-0e6ac27b8372/versions/1739352414/media/cdb6653a601ef87696a2ede81fd76790_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2025/02/22/mark-moriarty-two-simple-and-tasty-pork-dishes-and-an-air-fryer-hack-for-perfect-crackling/","content_elements":[{"_id":"WZF4K65QRVELFA4H3X4K5DHCTE","additional_properties":{"_id":1739899685020},"content":"This week we are talking pork, one of the most versatile and popular ingredients in the country. The humble pig is responsible for some of life’s great pleasures: sausages, rashers, ham, lardons, prosciutto, jamon, crackling, pork fat, pulled pork – the list goes on and on. I would go as far as saying it is my favourite ingredient to cook with, and it doesn’t cost a fortune to buy.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OKIL43MCBRDLZAIU2EALNCAXN4","additional_properties":{"_id":"Q7XIJVCE5VBGBNE2RSYDFMETC4"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"ILUKC4S6YFG5FAVJVSBEYW46IQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1739899685021},"content":"This week I’m cooking two very simple recipes. Slow-roast pork shoulder is a delicious alternative to the more traditional weekend roasts. Shoulder is a beautifully marbled piece of meat with plenty of fat to keep it moist when slow roasted. I would suggest pre-ordering it from your butcher because it’s often minced or diced instead of being placed on sale for roasting. Cooking at a low temperature in some tinfoil will keep the meat moist. Opening it up and cranking up the temperature for the final half-hour is designed to give you that crispy crackling we know and love. Some conventional home ovens often don’t reach the temperatures required to turn the skin to that blistered, popcorn-like texture, often leaving you with a teeth shattering finish and so much smoke you’ll be calling the fire brigade. I’ve discovered a handy tip for anyone who possesses an air fryer. Once the meat is soft and slow-cooked, you can add it to the air fryer and cook at “max fry” for four minutes. This will crackle the skin without the drama. Sauerkraut slaw, a favourite of central Europe, is tangy and crunchy. A perfect foil for the rich and fatty meat.","type":"text"},{"_id":"FGNBKQJA5BHFFLVV7QG55BUCSM","additional_properties":{"_id":"A7I6SQM6KNFW5FZY6PAYUVFHBA"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"5GUK35AFZFEQZMLZM6NIYVB33U","additional_properties":{"_id":1739899685023},"content":"The second recipe is inspired by travels in Thailand many years ago. Travelling by road from Bangkok to the Krabi region in the south, we stopped off in a roadside shack, dampened from 30-degree heat. Camping gear and woks were the equipment of choice as a dynamic pair of older ladies fried off pork mince (and all the extras) in a bath of fish and oyster sauce. The base was a lip-smacking combination of crispy chilli and garlic, which was finished with noodles and covered in basil freshly torn from the roadside garden. Roasted cashew nuts added the texture and bite. I will never forget the taste sensation, twinned with the idyllic setting. It remains one of my favourite meals of all time. A quick bottle of cold Chang beer and we were happily off on our way to the islands.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ZZM2OYCPQFB7ZNDD54YBBM2UE4","additional_properties":{"_id":1739899685024},"content":"This recipe uses pork steak, cut into strips. It’s a very cost-effective meat to add to your midweek repertoire. The magic moment involves the addition of cornflour to the liquids, which transforms into a thick sauce once it hits the heat. The character and ethos of the recipe remains the same as the roadside shack all you need is the setting, the people and the heat.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OKUDKJI6BNE27NDY7Y53FDNVDA","additional_properties":{"_id":1739899685025},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/02/22/crispy-skinned-pork-shoulder-wedge-with-sauerkraut-slaw/\"><b>Recipe: Crispy-skinned pork shoulder wedge with sauerkraut slaw</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"GYBLNYU3FNB3RA2OLBJPS77HAA","additional_properties":{"_id":1739899685026},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/02/22/mark-moriarty-thai-style-fried-pork-steak-noodles-with-chilli-basil-and-cashew-nuts/\" target=\"_self\"><b>Recipe: Thai-style fried pork steak noodles with chilli, basil and cashew nuts</b></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Mark Moriarty"}},"name":"Mark Moriarty"}]},"description":{"basic":"A slow roast pork for a Sunday alternative and a quick Thai-inspired pork steak stir-fry "},"display_date":"2025-02-22T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Two simple and tasty pork dishes with an air-fryer hack for perfect crackling","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"YMKSOULJNNBAPJL766DAF7K3GU","auth":{"1":"82ecd19d60bd64ccee87594eb1a412b9b4385fc5a4daa2198563c63ddc7f1337"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/YMKSOULJNNBAPJL766DAF7K3GU.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2025/02/22/mark-moriarty-two-simple-and-tasty-pork-dishes-and-an-air-fryer-hack-for-perfect-crackling/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"P7X5LF2KZBC7NGQHX2JS6LQHAY","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":263,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/21d2091b-22e9-450f-b215-09b7dd61e5bd/versions/1738074434/media/ee97b04cb4bbc861fe2aff8288304c0b_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2025/02/08/mark-moriarty-nothing-says-i-love-you-like-steak-and-oozing-chocolate-fondants/","content_elements":[{"_id":"CCYMEB7W7VALJECWPQIFFQKR74","additional_properties":{"_id":1739447555401},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/valentines-day/\" target=\"_self\">Valentine’s Day</a> is upon us. One of the great days in the restaurant calendar, when some of the most interesting and unique dining experiences occur. I won’t divulge any industry secrets, but this day brings out the inner cynic in me. Before sitting down to write, I went in search of some inspiration. This week I found it in the depths of the Oxford Dictionary: “Cliche” is defined as “a phrase or opinion that is overused and betrays a lack of original thought”.","type":"text"},{"_id":"K63P3RWHRRALPASR6MPKE4EJNE","additional_properties":{"_id":1739447555402},"content":"Thankfully, the Oxford dictionary is now online. If it wasn’t, I would never have come across the associated article titled “The seven worst Valentine’s Day cliches and what to do instead”. To give you a flavour, the cliches include “A box of chocolates”, with the suggested alternative being “an aphrodisiac”. Then “a romantic stroll” is supplanted with “a romantic adventure”. Very good. Finally, there is a suggestion that offers me the perfect segue into this week’s recipes: “A romantic dinner in a fancy restaurant” is replaced with “Why don’t you go and cook dinner yourself?” Perfect. What better way to make a lasting impression? It has certainly served me well. So what’s on the menu?","type":"text"},{"_id":"V2AGOL3PJJAN3AFVEMBPA5ZCQQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1739447555403},"content":"First up is a classic main course using some alternative ingredients. Steak, Béarnaise sauce and chips is my favourite dish of all time. Béarnaise is the mother of all sauces. Steak can often be very expensive without the payback in flavour and texture.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KWRFICY57VDQLPMRDKWBLUYWLU","additional_properties":{"_id":1739447555404},"content":"This week I’m slow-cooking a short rib of beef in the oven before cooking it in butter like you would a traditional steak. Why? The short rib lends itself to slow cooking to produce a tender end result that doesn’t turn to mush or lose all of its moisture. It’s also half the price of a fillet steak and, for me, is far more interesting and delicious. By slow-cooking it, you can prepare it in advance and all you have to do before serving is caramelise it in butter. As it’s slow cooked, you also won’t have to worry about rare, medium or well done temperatures.","type":"text"},{"_id":"NAGI34LH2VAH5MWZ3JTKVLAKSU","additional_properties":{"_id":"KLUTYN257FDZROYNA3KBBULP64"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"CX5K6YYITNGINAQLBPLU56BZS4","additional_properties":{"_id":1739447555406},"content":"Béarnaise is simpler to make than many think. It starts with a basic hollandaise base. I don’t faff around at home with reductions and infusions either. All it involves is placing a bowl over some steaming water, like you would when melting chocolate. Whisk up some egg yolks, vinegar, mustard and lemon juice until it goes pale and thickens. I then remove the bowl from the heat, and add in some melted butter until it thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Simple. Once the heat comes out of it slightly, it will thicken further. For the Béarnaise, I add some chopped tarragon, chives and finely diced shallot along with some more salt. Butter and eggs are rich and can absorb seasoning, therefore this will take a lot of lemon and salt for maximum impact to cut through the richness of that beef. Then it’s time to whip out the air fryer. Of all the things this device is useful for, potato wedges are the number one for me. As you’ll see, I have it down to a finely timed system of cutting, seasoning, oil distribution and cooking times with shaking. Follow each step and you’ll never encounter a soggy wedge again.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ID2HF4RRJJA5BJNECELASAP5DA","additional_properties":{"_id":"N3KJ5DYGSJETPIHEXYFI33KDAU"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"6KE4H4RHEJABTLJTBFCDLJ3NZU","additional_properties":{"_id":1739447555408},"content":"For dessert, I’m cheating. We all need some help. Make these chocolate fondants in advance and have them in the fridge, ready to impress. The road to culinary greatness is littered with failed fondants. By adding a little chocolate sauce or ganache ball to each one, you guarantee a liquid centre no matter how long you cook them for. As an added bonus, you can roll the balls in cocoa powder for your own home-made chocolates.","type":"text"},{"_id":"BFMIX7B6PNG4JKOGXEFZHOTQAE","additional_properties":{"_id":1739447555409},"content":"Who said romance was dead? Best of luck.","type":"text"},{"_id":"BRFJNAXJ3ZE2JNNN7SJKEXAHUQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1739447555410},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/02/08/slow-cooked-short-rib-steak-bearnaise-sauce-and-air-fried-wedges-2/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Recipe: Slow-cooked short rib ‘steak’, Béarnaise sauce and air-fried wedges </b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"QDPB536A5VHL5AJSUOMTXAZEWU","additional_properties":{"_id":1739447555411},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2025/02/08/mark-moriarty-cheats-chocolate-fondant-with-pistachio-ice-cream/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Recipe: Cheat’s chocolate fondant with pistachio ice-cream</b></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Mark Moriarty"}},"name":"Mark Moriarty"}]},"description":{"basic":"Forget overpriced, overcrowded restaurants - this easy home-made main course and dessert are the way to anyone’s heart"},"display_date":"2025-02-08T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Valentine’s Day recipes: Nothing says ‘I love you’ like steak and oozing chocolate fondants","native":"What to cook for Valentine’s dinner? Mark Moriarty’s easy recipes of perfect steak and oozing chocolate fondants"},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"N3KBSHOLC5HW3N4LWLWLXQ43GA","auth":{"1":"3a8f6afe5355cbaaf5fe36c1034a64793b204b27fcbee7642ce737257af14870"},"focal_point":{"x":3417,"y":2451},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/N3KBSHOLC5HW3N4LWLWLXQ43GA.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2025/02/08/mark-moriarty-nothing-says-i-love-you-like-steak-and-oozing-chocolate-fondants/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}}],"count":71,"_id":"1340de5e222d575eb5dd4d3ee38ba2171f381c1fcfbc6e129f63c788e3a1954d"},"expires":1742524033879,"lastModified":1742523733336},"{\"arc-site\":\"irishtimes\",\"offset\":0,\"query\":\"(credits.by.slug:\\\"grainne-okeefe\\\") AND 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O'Keefe","slug":"grainne-okeefe"}]},"headlines":{"basic":"Under the weather? These three dishes packed with antioxidants, vitamins and minerals should help"},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"5KWO2H44LFBCDDDABV5UIR5JXA","auth":{"1":"ab66f4831af481b9caf43de9ef6eaee2c92c1cd487858321923bacf23cd58f42"},"url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/5KWO2H44LFBCDDDABV5UIR5JXA.jpg"}},"website_url":"/food/2023/09/30/under-the-weather-these-three-dishes-packed-with-antioxidants-vitamins-and-minerals-should-help/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","name":"Food"}}}}]},"expires":1742524033739,"lastModified":1742523733338},"{\"feedOffset\":0,\"feedSize\":5,\"offset\":0,\"query\":\"(credits.by.slug:\\\"grainne-okeefe\\\") AND (subtype:\\\"Columnist\\\")\",\"size\":5}":{"data":{"content_elements":[{"_id":"CTFJVFEITFDQDKXZ2DFJZICEVM","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":146,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/9036751/media/bb2837fd399aae7e00a2d0017186a535_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2023/10/28/the-trick-and-treat-of-pumpkin-dishes-smaller-varieties-are-much-easier-to-prepare/","content_elements":[{"_id":"WMPXNYH5XNHCXIFI7RFCEGDQQ4","additional_properties":{"_id":1697704522289},"content":"Pumpkin is often associated with Halloween, more specifically, pumpkin carving, a tradition that originally started with turnips. Pumpkin is the last sign of autumn, its vibrancy being a last dash of colour that leads us into winter.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HLYVCORIGVHNFHGK2KGKFLN3NQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1697704522290},"content":"It’s common to see pumpkin and squash on menus in restaurants at this time of year, usually paired with sage and nuts and lots of cheese. Pumpkin risotto is one of my favourites, paired with some blue cheese to balance the natural sweetness of the cooked pumpkin. It’s this natural sweetness that makes it so versatile, and one of the few vegetables that make a great dessert as well as savoury dishes.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OETIFC3TSVG6BKAE3G3QGNIFCQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1697704522291},"content":"People can be put off buying pumpkins due to the laborious nature of preparing them, but the trick is to buy smaller varieties such as the Crown Prince or Hokkaido. They are much easier to prepare and you can even eat the skin. I also prefer their flavour to that of regular pumpkins, and you can find them quite easily in most good food shops.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OWUWAZOSEJBZLCUMVH2WEHYR4E","additional_properties":{"_id":1697704522292},"content":"Using thin slices of baked pumpkin instead of pasta sheets is a great way to make a gluten-free lasagne, and the natural sweetness works great in this dish, providing a contrast of flavours.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HC4NHTCTJJDU7IWT72LIR5BMPU","additional_properties":{"_id":1697704522293},"content":"The baked pumpkin dish is perfect as a side, or even as a dish on its own. You can swap out any of the fillings and change the cheese if you aren’t a blue cheese fan. Goat’s cheese pairs really well, as would a smoked cheddar.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QL7FWBWYMZE2ZEV24AVVI7TVG4","additional_properties":{"_id":1697704522294},"content":"Pumpkin purée is a very American ingredient, and can be found in shops such as Lotts & Co and Fallon & Byrne, as well as online, or you can make your own. Velvet Cloud sheep’s milk yogurt is delicious with the pumpkin tart, adding a slightly savoury note to counteract the sweetness.","type":"text"},{"_id":"YXMGEPJFIBFNXHB6KHVRS3UCJ4","additional_properties":{"_id":1697704522295},"content":"It is time to say a huge thank you to all who have read my recipes here over the past year. It has been an incredible experience and a pleasure to see you cooking my recipes and enjoying them at home. I hope to be back writing some time in the future (when I am perhaps a little less busy).","type":"text"},{"_id":"2UT6UZOF45CCXCGGCHPQ4KBWNQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1697704522296},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2023/10/28/pumpkin-and-beef-short-rib-lasagne/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Recipe: Pumpkin and beef short rib lasagne</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"Q26JNY76MVGYNH3MX6AJBWRDEI","additional_properties":{"_id":1697551874693},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2023/10/28/roasted-pumpkin-stuffed-with-orzo-and-blue-cheese/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Recipe: Roasted pumpkin stuffed with orzo and blue cheese</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"7RRBGQ7F6ZAYXHU7UNW4MBTC2Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1697551874694},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2023/10/28/pumpkin-tart-with-velvet-cloud-sheeps-milk-yogurt/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Recipe: Pumpkin tart with Velvet Cloud sheep’s milk yogurt</b></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Gráinne O'Keefe"}},"name":"Gráinne O'Keefe"}]},"description":{"basic":"Gráinne O’Keefe: Crown Prince and Hokkaido are much less of a horror show to prep and they taste better, too"},"display_date":"2023-10-28T04:15:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"The trick and treat of pumpkin dishes: smaller varieties are much easier to prepare","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"},"basic":{"display":true,"text":"Food Month"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"BIKCY7HOMBHMFP6MKNRUVUDQYE","auth":{"1":"4429e5d430b8462fe3078253663fab62ff1c1b133f3f53fe666c6c07d907314f"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/BIKCY7HOMBHMFP6MKNRUVUDQYE.jpg"},"overline_logo":{"_id":"ODAASV4SBNHATJHOBHB3XTYX7U","auth":{"1":"01de107310c65c790f0e72a62f7eb87cddfc1fe10f2cdce99735ddc6dcb0cb41"},"url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/ODAASV4SBNHATJHOBHB3XTYX7U.png"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2023/10/28/the-trick-and-treat-of-pumpkin-dishes-smaller-varieties-are-much-easier-to-prepare/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"WGEJO7CQDJDZZOX22JQIIMLOBU","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":135,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/8894896/media/42f2d7c69a3365f793b529cb9edac7b9_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2023/10/21/three-simple-bakes-anyone-can-make-fudgy-chocolate-cake-cinnamon-swirl-traybake-and-some-savoury-scones/","content_elements":[{"_id":"3FUJWIV5YNB25EPOLBVFLJFR5Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1697020914645},"content":"The first thing I ever baked was an apple crumble, in home economics class when I was in school. I can still remember eating a piece of the raw cooking apple and the tartness of it. It was the first time I realised that it’s the process of preparation and the science of cooking that can turn a bitter, inedible apple into something sweet, jammy and bursting with flavour.","type":"text"},{"_id":"3CGNSLEW4NBNBGR7CYVXSQREO4","additional_properties":{"_id":1697020914646},"content":"Baking is a science and requires patience, discipline and a steady hand. I studied pastry when I was in Dublin Institute of Technology (now TU Dublin), and then also did pastry in my first job and for the first few months of my second job. It was then that I realised that I didn’t want to continue working solely as a pastry chef, and that the hot kitchen was more my calling. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"K5IAGFFYUFGOJHRUEOYIB2RLDI","additional_properties":{},"content":"I think that every chef should learn the basics of pastry, and understand the science behind it, and then make a decision on which career path to choose.","type":"text"},{"_id":"R5UCHUPMWJGFFK34ANSSQ5WBG4","additional_properties":{"_id":"ETMTWNADDNEXLO6DZNFB4C6EJY"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"HUQQTUKIKRBAHHCDJGVHI5DDWY","additional_properties":{"_id":"YXK5DPKEUZCDJJRRPIPWVE4ITU"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"YI3JEH7NPFEFLLOY4FOH5W6U6U","additional_properties":{"_id":1697020914647},"content":"This chocolate cake is one of my favourite recipes, and is very simple. It’s slightly fudgier than most chocolate cakes and the smoked almonds give it a salty kick to cut through the chocolate. If you are using regular almonds, sprinkle a little sea salt on top instead. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"QFZY635UERGJDCY6BRHGY474OU","additional_properties":{},"content":"The trick with cakes is to wait until they are cooled completely to cut and decorate them; consider making the cake itself the day before.","type":"text"},{"_id":"XWZWN6I74BFRZFETKUTEPVMOVQ","additional_properties":{},"content":"Scones are the simplest of all recipes. I like to make them savoury, with bacon and brown butter spread, with the smoked cheese and jalapeños giving a nice kick. To make sweet scones instead, just take out the cheese, jalapeños and salt and add sugar.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QOMCFEKM4ZHV7NT5TXC3V526G4","additional_properties":{"_id":1697020914648},"content":"The cinnamon swirl traybake is perfect for making to share and you can make a batch of dough and freeze it to have handy for a sweet breakfast treat. The cherries and crème de cassis give it a black forest-type flavour. It is a delight for people with a sweet tooth.","type":"text"},{"_id":"BVCRSMHGZNETXNCYLZ6U3I7YYU","type":"list"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Gráinne O'Keefe"}},"name":"Gráinne O'Keefe"}]},"description":{"basic":"Gráinne O’Keefe: These recipes are perfect for sharing or making a batch for the freezer"},"display_date":"2023-10-21T04:15:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Three simple bakes anyone can make: fudgy chocolate cake, cinnamon swirl traybake and some savoury scones","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"LG7ZG3TXQNFN5AS2AV7GBXRARU","auth":{"1":"843704422bf8520482c7e97868d62e2b9892856718c4cebdc714dede08b21df2"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/LG7ZG3TXQNFN5AS2AV7GBXRARU.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2023/10/21/three-simple-bakes-anyone-can-make-fudgy-chocolate-cake-cinnamon-swirl-traybake-and-some-savoury-scones/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"Z5AUHVNF35BRJGMRSHPNPGFZBU","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":146,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/8783642/media/61060552fbca22954ac395bc261a82b5_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2023/10/14/the-return-of-the-big-roast-dinner-the-simple-way-to-cook-it/","content_elements":[{"_id":"EXQFYEL65FAU7EWDCOXXPODBIA","additional_properties":{"_id":1696327846932},"content":"When I was growing up in the 1990s, roast dinners were a big deal. It was usually on a Sunday, when we would be subjected to peeling potatoes and the air would be filled with the aroma of cabbage being boiled in the ham water.","type":"text"},{"_id":"SMS7BP4W7ZBXNNQZWDWN4PY7UQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1696327846933},"content":"When I visited my grandparents, though, there was a roast dinner every day. My grandparents were farmers in Leitrim and they always had an early start on the day so dinner would be at around 2pm and was always a mountain of fluffy potatoes, with some form of roast meat and vegetables buried underneath.","type":"text"},{"_id":"2AEJSW53JVGEBAJNK63LEHVBUI","additional_properties":{"_id":1696330555709},"content":"Being raised in Dublin, I had only half digested my hot Weetabix a couple of hours before dinner was put in front of me. After dinner was tea, with sandwiches being made from the remnants of dinner, and then the very few scraps being tossed out secretly to the wild cats. No meal will ever live up to those ones and no sandwiches have ever tasted as good.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JI55NCVPD5ETDAYJ7DX4GTR5JE","additional_properties":{"_id":1696327846934},"content":"As I got older, I started to lament these dinners, even the roast that I had at home as a kid, that I didn’t want. I have so little time now to spend with family and friends that every time I make a roast dinner, it’s a very special occasion.","type":"text"},{"_id":"YAMCWDF5LNGCRCAUHYBZFBKFCY","additional_properties":{"_id":1696327846935},"content":"Roast chicken is one of my all time favourites and I have already shared a few recipes for great chicken but I also love a great veggie Wellington, made in the same style as the a beef version, but filled with sweet, earthy root vegetables. Cheese can be added to make it an extra decadent vegetarian roast dinner.","type":"text"},{"_id":"MOW2EJJZKNG2TCQM4XY33IX62Y","additional_properties":{"_id":"ROQFRSVJOBBZFDZMPUHD4YEQQI"},"content":"Lentil and beef cottage pie","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"KLD6UA7AI5ATLKGOJGMV6HHBC4","additional_properties":{"_id":1696327846936},"content":"Roast pork is a classic but often can be too fatty, with flabby bits of the rind making for an unpleasant dining experience. The key is to buy a lean piece from your butcher and ask them to trim off any excess fat. You can, of course, stuff the pork, but I find that this walnut salsa verde is the perfect accompaniment.","type":"text"},{"_id":"MHVLRSCNWFE6NAEKNI66FXOV7I","additional_properties":{"_id":1696327846937},"content":"Potato dauphinoise, broccoli and horseradish sauce are staples to serve alongside most roasts and can be served family-style, to share, making a roast dinner that bit more manageable.","type":"text"},{"_id":"MKPIDYYPHVF2ZNKQHOLWKSI4PQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1696330555714},"content":"<b>Recipe: </b><a href=\"https://irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2023/10/14/vegetarian-wellington-with-walnut-salsa-verde/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Vegetarian Wellington with walnut salsa verde</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"XOKCS4T2B5ETNLERUQOUIV7KKI","additional_properties":{"_id":1696330555715},"content":"<b>Recipe: </b><a href=\"https://irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2023/10/14/crispy-roast-pork-with-sage-and-jalapeno-salsa/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Crispy roast pork with sage and jalapeño salsa</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"AOD2W4N3WVAB3NDWKLESNNEQDA","additional_properties":{"_id":1696330555716},"content":"<b>Recipe: </b><a href=\"https://irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2023/10/14/roast-dinner-sides-potato-dauphinoise-broccoli-gratin-and-horseradish-sauce/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Roast dinner sides: Potato dauphinoise, broccoli gratin and horseradish sauce</b></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Gráinne O'Keefe"}},"name":"Gráinne O'Keefe"}]},"description":{"basic":"Gráinne O’Keefe: As I got older, I started to lament the dinners I had when I was growing up in the 1990s"},"display_date":"2023-10-14T04:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"The return of the big roast dinner: the simple way to cook it","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"UYRVC46675CQZIM5ZV2V56WXEM","auth":{"1":"a7d7765971680e9d6bf115caca9c76cd24adfaef2b9e2bbb6183499ebeac2561"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/UYRVC46675CQZIM5ZV2V56WXEM.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2023/10/14/the-return-of-the-big-roast-dinner-the-simple-way-to-cook-it/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"E3AQ7SV5ZFDITH3FV2S2VJMRJQ","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":166,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/8684633/media/86edd8a8e39cfa5a0608138c082d2d80_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2023/10/07/three-comforting-slow-cooker-dinners-for-busy-days/","content_elements":[{"_id":"GRYDS4BQUJHHDKQCYNBKADFUDY","additional_properties":{"_id":1695652173699},"content":"October until February is slow cooker season. It is the perfect time of year to dust your slow cooker off, as robust root vegetables come up from the ground and we begin to crave comforting hot stews and soups. I love to get a cheaper cut like ham hock or stewing beef and combine with soaked beans, veggies, stock and potatoes, slow cook for a few hours until everything is tender and delicious, and get it set for mopping up with a huge slice of sourdough lathered in salted butter.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PV4FLD4YYJHL7OZO7BOZQBCIEU","additional_properties":{"_id":1695652173700},"content":"Slow cooking is the perfect method for busy people, especially if you are cooking for more than one person, and with minimal time involved you can create some flavourful comfort foods in minutes (well, hours, if you include the actual slow cooking part). Although it’s tempting to throw everything into the slow cooker at once and hope for the best, it’s worth adding a few minutes’ prep time to sear the meat and sauté the vegetables, thus creating a deeper flavour. You can skip this step in each of the recipes below, with the exception of the stuffed peppers (though if you figure out a way to make this recipe entirely in the slow cooker, do let me know).","type":"text"},{"_id":"MP53Z5ZMIZHBRNJS2IEECSJT2Y","additional_properties":{"_id":"RGEEHZ763JAFBLS2T5JBWE4YKE"},"subtype":"pullquote","type":"quote"},{"_id":"SZGGLT4EIJBU7EFJQYQ5REIFXE","additional_properties":{"_id":1695652173701},"content":"In professional kitchens, slow cooking is a daily ritual, depending on the menu. Currently in Mae we have slow cooked Iberico pork, confit duck legs and a jus gras, all of which require some form of slow cooking. Marinating beforehand brings more flavour and tenderness to meaty dishes. I prefer to use cheap cuts if I’m cooking for myself, as they tend to have a higher fat content and better flavour. I use chicken thighs for my soup, but breasts will work just as well – you will need to reduce the cooking time, however. Wild rice is lower in carbs than white rice, and is also a complete protein. It holds its texture much better when slow cooking, and doesn’t overcook in the same way that white rice would.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QQJ5LZR5WVGVJGEMXXRVVKQYWA","additional_properties":{"_id":1695652173702},"content":"The pulled pork is very simple, and if you aren’t a fan of eating cheek you can swap it out for shoulder, collar, loin or even belly. The chimichurri is far simpler than my usual recipe, to allow the sweetness of the barbecue sauce to shine.","type":"text"},{"_id":"AGBRSGUU7JHZHNWAXLOOULURVY","additional_properties":{"_id":1695652173703},"content":"The peppers are a great vegetarian option and can be stuffed with any fillings. You can even make them more kid-friendly by doing a pizza-style stuffed pepper with pepperoni, cheese, breadcrumbs and some more hidden veggies.","type":"text"},{"_id":"NXUDFEDY4VBXVM2SP27NXD5MN4","additional_properties":{"_id":"3UOU3OFKEFABDLBWG77OCRUFJE"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"AKTMSDL3OBBSHPJYF2FADM2H5I","additional_properties":{"_id":1695715918385},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2023/10/07/pulled-pork-sandwiches-with-barbecue-sauce-and-chimichurri/\" target=\"_blank\">Pulled pork sandwiches with barbecue sauce and chimichurri</a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"PODJZHLSR5D5TESKUN6WW4GVOY","additional_properties":{"_id":"PHDURNYG2BGLZKWHHM326OLDBE"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"W22VNRWLVZFJXO6WKPLULIIKDY","additional_properties":{"_id":1695715918386},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2023/10/07/creamy-chicken-soup-with-wild-rice-and-leeks/\" target=\"_blank\">Creamy chicken soup with wild rice and leeks</a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"L7SYXP6ZDRD43J74B2MD2CZBJU","additional_properties":{"_id":"HTP4YWZ55BB25AU2ZPWJRNHTWY"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"GS7S2KO5VFHTHJD6KSPSEVIFIE","additional_properties":{"_id":1695715918387},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2023/10/07/spinach-and-mushroom-stuffed-bell-peppers-in-a-tomato-and-tarragon-sauce/\" target=\"_blank\">Spinach and mushroom stuffed bell peppers in a tomato and tarragon sauce</a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Gráinne O'Keefe"}},"name":"Gráinne O'Keefe"}]},"description":{"basic":"Gráinne O’Keefe: As the evenings get darker and cooler, we’re craving tasty stews and soups"},"display_date":"2023-10-07T04:20:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Three comforting slow cooker dinners for busy days","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"OWWIB5XKQRGI3EZAB52UBS7XKE","auth":{"1":"f05581a4b827d19680465fca79bc12fffd2c3a0fd6f75dceec4abbc592fbf6a5"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/OWWIB5XKQRGI3EZAB52UBS7XKE.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2023/10/07/three-comforting-slow-cooker-dinners-for-busy-days/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"JAW3LI6I5RHQ5GEEBBQSO7LSHY","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":155,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/8602940/media/415df0482a496d2146ec84e8edee2a2b_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2023/09/30/under-the-weather-these-three-dishes-packed-with-antioxidants-vitamins-and-minerals-should-help/","content_elements":[{"_id":"SSKCLZ5WOFB3XKMADCTG7FS3PE","additional_properties":{"_id":1695134077553},"content":"Many years ago, at a staff party, I and eight others got food poisoning from eating oysters at a restaurant. I don’t remember ever being as sick as I was in the following days. After the initial sickness had subsided, I still felt very ill and I found in the following months that my energy levels had decreased. I got extremely tired after eating, and would get very bad stomach pains, for no apparent reason.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DGQWQZUNNNEYHJWJNWW4MAPPVQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1695138704546},"content":"Eventually, I got a referral to check for H.pylori, which is a bacterium found in the stomach that causes ulcers and other gastrointestinal issues. It is difficult to treat as it can be very resistant to antibiotics. Eventually, I had a biopsy that allowed my medical team to devise a treatment to finally get rid of it. This worked and I was incredibly thankful that it did. The entire experience, however, has altered my immune system and made me far more conscious of it and how I can support it by adding simple things to my diet and schedule.","type":"text"},{"_id":"LTPOHZN25BADZJJH44TGZAVPRM","additional_properties":{"_id":1695134077555},"content":"When I have a cold, I drink chamomile tea with honey, lemon and whiskey. When I have a sore throat, I eat hot and sour soup. I have found that, over the years, what really helped me was focusing more on what I was consuming, and how it was beneficial to my body.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WEKDU7JLMRBPLM2ZNNSRIGV2CQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1695134077556},"content":"My recipes this week are dishes packed with natural antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. The key is to buy the freshest produce available, organic if you can, and to eat plenty of it.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JZUX7T7TENGNHLLNLWKANNTFCM","additional_properties":{"_id":1695134077557},"content":"Salt-baking is a particular favourite technique of mine. It works well with vegetables, but also fish, meat and rice. Steaming inside a salt crust results in deep layers of seasoning and tender vegetables. Be careful not to burn yourself when opening the salt crust, and don’t eat it, it won’t be pleasant. Discard it as it has done its job.","type":"text"},{"_id":"SBLS3BBRRVHZVOCJB5J5D4J7B4","additional_properties":{"_id":1695134077558},"content":"When buying salmon, buy organic. If you buy fresh fillets, ask your fishmonger to pin-bone and scale the salmon. If you prefer smoked, I get mine from Sally Barnes of Woodcock Smokery.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5KWO2H44LFBCDDDABV5UIR5JXA","additional_properties":{"_id":"FZA7VWVSZBAGLN2A6NHBWG6GO4"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"W7MYOFYAJFCIXAEILYSWBLGLBA","additional_properties":{"_id":1695134077559},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2023/09/30/ginger-and-garlic-marinated-salmon-with-pak-choi/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Recipe: Ginger and garlic marinated salmon with pak choi</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"PQBA3G3QSRDBXAVJXVHVLUGHMA","additional_properties":{"_id":"S3KOOCRYCJE4TCR3HYITCXVZDM"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"QL2VVOE5TRG4LLGYD2FTBUS7ZA","additional_properties":{"_id":1695076314749},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2023/09/30/quinoa-and-kale-salad-with-smoked-mackerel-tahini-dressing-and-a-soft-boiled-egg/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Recipe: Quinoa and kale salad with poached mackerel, tahini dressing and a soft boiled egg</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"2V77GLK5ZBDYDM4CU73TYP56VM","additional_properties":{"_id":"UCH5KUNGPRFJBGF4D62RFQJDVU"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"2VH23RSSSFGVVOXKXEBXT2I2MQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1695076314750},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2023/09/30/salt-baked-turmeric-glazed-vegetables/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Recipe: Salt-baked turmeric-glazed vegetables</b></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Gráinne O'Keefe"}},"name":"Gráinne O'Keefe"}]},"description":{"basic":"Gráinne O’Keefe: The key is to buy the freshest produce available and to eat plenty of it"},"display_date":"2023-09-30T04:15:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Under the weather? These three dishes packed with antioxidants, vitamins and minerals should help","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"5KWO2H44LFBCDDDABV5UIR5JXA","auth":{"1":"ab66f4831af481b9caf43de9ef6eaee2c92c1cd487858321923bacf23cd58f42"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/5KWO2H44LFBCDDDABV5UIR5JXA.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2023/09/30/under-the-weather-these-three-dishes-packed-with-antioxidants-vitamins-and-minerals-should-help/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}}],"count":51,"_id":"744c56b8694dc614f3d68c019c6393fbc5d6614c1508a54c03196cdd7040cb09"},"expires":1742524033739,"lastModified":1742523733338}},"story-feed-tag":{"{\"feedOffset\":0,\"feedSize\":1,\"tagSlug\":\"dinner-dash\"}":{"data":{"content_elements":[{"_id":"BCT4KHFWQZC43GYHZOQ7VN265I","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":132,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/9601873/media/8d10d7d87b3452f36ea40c66eadd4e72_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2023/11/30/taz-kellehers-fridge-clear-out-traybake/","content_elements":[{"_id":"SRZEKFED4NFN5ACSPGNLRMFULA","additional_properties":{"_id":1701165457901},"content":"This recipe (that almost does not warrant a recipe) is one of the meals I make most often. It is super easy, quick, tasty and helps to dramatically cut down on your food waste. Before doing a grocery shop, I love to take stock of what is in my fridge and cook up as much as possible before buying more stuff.","type":"text"},{"_id":"H3WUJDECIRCV5HUSYITBANXSJY","additional_properties":{"_id":1701173159104},"content":"Food waste is such a large driver of environmental harm, carbon emissions, biodiversity loss and soil degradation, the list goes on. For food to be produced and then wasted is just nonsensical and expensive too. The best way to cut down on your food waste is to simply take stock of what you are throwing away each week and figure out ways to cut that down.","type":"text"},{"_id":"MKIXGURBE5CJ5M3R7ELJ3LUHIQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1701165457902},"content":"With that in mind, I want to use up all the odds and ends that sneakily find their way into the depths of the fridge. Half an onion here, a bit of carrot there, or a half-empty can of beans – sound familiar? Well, this is one of my solutions: a fuss-free, tasty traybake.","type":"text"},{"_id":"VEIGQCVHKVFDJMJ57M7NBF56FA","additional_properties":{"_id":1701173159106},"content":"The ingredients are totally interchangeable for this and the amounts are approximate. Any type of potatoes will work and the same goes for veggies – carrots, courgettes, tomatoes, leeks, onions, whole cloves of garlic, squash, peppers, and cauliflower. Feel free to experiment and get creative. The orange rind is not essential but great if you have it, or even lemon or lime. I always keep a stash of peel in the freezer for flavouring water or traybakes.","type":"text"},{"_id":"55AAXN5VCBDVLNEYSB7SFKP63U","additional_properties":{"_id":1701165457903},"content":"I will usually serve this with a soft-boiled egg and some salad leaves. And another bonus, traybake leftovers make a fantastic lunch as is, or can be spread generously on toast with hummus.","type":"text"},{"_id":"CRLTTCEEOZABFBRUENC2S2XMLU","additional_properties":{"_id":1701165457904},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2023/11/30/taz-kellehers-fridge-clear-out-traybake/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Recipe: Taz Kelleher’s fridge clear-out traybake</b></a>","type":"header"},{"_id":"SRZEKFED4NFN5ACSPGNLRMFULA","additional_properties":{"_id":1701165457905},"content":"<i>Taz Kelleher runs The Useless Project, an awareness-raising and events collective that aims to show people that you don’t need to feel useless in the face of the climate crisis, once you start small, connect more and use less. Follow for more Taz Kelleher </i><a href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tazkelleher/\" target=\"_blank\"><i>here </i></a><i>on Instagram and The Useless Project </i><a href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theuselessproject/\" target=\"_blank\"><i>here</i></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"3GYAN7ADOVBATORHMTLCAJOV44","additional_properties":{"_id":1701165286336},"content":"<i><b>Discover more delicious and healthy meals at </b></i><a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/dinner-dash\" target=\"_blank\"><i><b>Dinner Dash</b></i></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Taz Kelleher"}]},"description":{"basic":"Taz Kelleher’s recipe is super easy and one of the meals she makes most often"},"display_date":"2023-11-30T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"A fuss-free traybake to help cut down on your food waste","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"},"basic":{"display":true,"text":"Food Month"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"7FSYK4K53NBX5IH6LXRP7M73ZI","auth":{"1":"e48b27d4af5db8c222f75987175aee39f6c26a9f4d4fd0fcef6619d3bb422565"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/7FSYK4K53NBX5IH6LXRP7M73ZI.png"},"overline_logo":{"_id":"ODAASV4SBNHATJHOBHB3XTYX7U","auth":{"1":"01de107310c65c790f0e72a62f7eb87cddfc1fe10f2cdce99735ddc6dcb0cb41"},"url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/ODAASV4SBNHATJHOBHB3XTYX7U.png"}},"subtype":"feature-smaller","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2023/11/30/taz-kellehers-fridge-clear-out-traybake/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}}],"count":48,"_id":"f0cd4e0433b0e8b3dc21d14db6d5a4ae2f459931ad223b0fcc9e7f3965b98f1a"},"expires":1742523902937,"lastModified":1742523602767},"{\"feedOffset\":0,\"feedSize\":1,\"tagSlug\":\"takeaways\"}":{"data":{"content_elements":[{"_id":"UERFE6GX2FAZ7GD7MGS5FFXPQU","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":215,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/9867002d-ac84-4c49-85ce-5a7c25d9f739/versions/1741166854/media/c6da9bdf9eac3543105b5a58e9ce6d81_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/restaurants/2025/03/14/dalang-takeaway-korean-food-that-hasnt-been-dulled-down-for-irish-tastes/","content_elements":[{"_id":"YC4PWGZZNFABRJOW7QBUNQDERM","additional_properties":{"_id":"2LXT5XGCW5DBDMOBHO4YRXWCZE"},"embed":{"config":{},"id":"review-highlights-16811","url":"/"},"subtype":"review_powerup","type":"custom_embed"},{"_id":"VZTWIDAMJVABHA67ZILMR54YZU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162682},"content":"What’s on offer?","type":"header"},{"_id":"22HRLH6UV5ACZCRWJQ553EDUMQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162683},"content":"Dalang opened under its current owners in summer 2022, but has been on the go in one form or another since 2017. It is run by Koreans and Chinese, and the idea is to offer a taste of their homes. The kimchi and dumplings are home-made, and you’ll find an extensive menu that includes sushi, soup, spring rolls, tempura, ramen, Korean-style noodles, Korean fried chicken, bibimbap, spice bags and charcoal barbecue. The sauces, from the Asia Market, get a few in-house tweaks to punch up the flavours. There is no mention of food provenance, and I was unable to ascertain where the chicken is from.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ENBIXFV6C5DNHBQFNWZQOEEK4I","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162684},"content":"What did we order?","type":"header"},{"_id":"2A3IUUHHIFDKRODHKNLZAWQFMM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162685},"content":"Vegetable tempura, pan-fried dumplings, bibimbap with beef, mixed seafood soup, fried kimchi and pork with tofu and pan-fried tofu.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JOHNOWNONRGZPID3KY3CVJBJZA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162686},"content":"How was the service?","type":"header"},{"_id":"4NT6P25CUJGQPLZIEBP7BP5QYA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162687},"content":"Ordering online was straightforward and the food was delivered promptly.","type":"text"},{"_id":"LN6UGYZONJHSDGL7WJVEAHOOWI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162688},"content":"Was the food nice?","type":"header"},{"_id":"LB5FRM4OL5AKZH354GKXF6K4NE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162689},"content":"The vegetable tempura was a disappointment. Even though this is a reminder that it’s not the best thing to order for delivery, the batter was completely overcooked. Six pan-fried pork dumplings were considerably better and worked well dipped in soy sauce with chopped spring onion.","type":"text"},{"_id":"6AGYVZPQGJG3JC5YYQBYGDH3TU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162690},"content":"The bibimbap came with steamed rice mixed with sautéed vegetables and beef, topped with a fried egg. I was impressed to see the yolk was still soft. It tasted a bit bland, lacking in gochujang and heat, though I may have missed ticking the chilli oil option when ordering.","type":"text"},{"_id":"2F2542OQBZEBNLWY6XLXDXQEGQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162691},"content":"Dalang takeaway: Korean food that hasn’t been dulled down for Irish tastes","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"7YBG2AMTHJFKFAWHW43EJILB2M","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162692},"content":"The mixed seafood soup had a selection of prawns, mussels, fish, squid, tofu and vegetables in a fiery, spicy broth. It was very tasty, though the squid was tough. The fried kimchi and pork with tofu was another strong dish, a generous portion, with the flavour of the kimchi coming through well. Crunchy Bok choi, mixed with the pork and plenty of sauce, worked nicely.","type":"text"},{"_id":"AV5OIPBZPNB4VAE7XNJEY6ZR4M","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162693},"content":"What about the packaging?","type":"header"},{"_id":"S5MPTXUYY5F5NFSWFJEM3MMAGY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162694},"content":"The delivery came in a plastic bag. All of the containers were plastic, so recyclable, but far from ideal. There are plans to switch to compostable packaging.","type":"text"},{"_id":"XSSENHKNVRCSZK3OQ4Q72S4SSM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162695},"content":"What did it cost?","type":"header"},{"_id":"N5RHPXCZQZEJNMAVIXAKMQ2TKY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162696},"content":"€61.09 for dinner for three people: vegetable tempura, €8.50; pan-fried dumplings, €8.90; bibimbap with beef, €12.90; mixed seafood soup, €13.90; fried kimchi and pork with tofu, €13.90; plus service fee, €2.99.","type":"text"},{"_id":"FQBKOPDWJVGDNEPVIBAIIHTSN4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162697},"content":"Where does it deliver?","type":"header"},{"_id":"YVCZY4WYJ5BMVD4L5PCXXOKOQI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162698},"content":"Open daily, noon-11pm. Prices are lower at lunchtime – noon-4pm – to cater to the student crowd. Deliveroo, Just Eat and Uber Eats deliver within a 5km radius.","type":"text"},{"_id":"RB5ZSYXXONBEFIUPVDTWNZQT3M","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162699},"content":"Would I order it again?","type":"header"},{"_id":"VU3LKJWYZ5ELNLUAIOTQXSEWME","additional_properties":{"_id":1741879162700},"content":"Yes. It’s good value, and the food doesn’t feel overly adapted for the Irish palate. The menu includes both familiar and more unusual dishes. I’d skip the tempura and bibimbap next time.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Corinna Hardgrave"}},"name":"Corinna Hardgrave"}]},"description":{"basic":"The kimchi and dumplings here are home-made, while a few sauce tweaks punch up the flavours"},"display_date":"2025-03-14T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Dalang takeaway: Korean food that hasn’t been dulled down for Irish tastes ","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"F4HZFKAP3BCT7PSXNM6GKLZC44","auth":{"1":"3a0202cc014049f3838c84a9799ebfd128c602bf25573507a73dafc25e5390c1"},"focal_point":{"x":999,"y":687},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/F4HZFKAP3BCT7PSXNM6GKLZC44.jpg"}},"subtype":"default","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Restaurants"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/restaurants/2025/03/14/dalang-takeaway-korean-food-that-hasnt-been-dulled-down-for-irish-tastes/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/restaurants","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Restaurants"}}}}],"count":126,"_id":"d51abe4d77b0a9ab697d8d2fae3b9ccd2a769bb03d61cbceb1165600caf1b601"},"expires":1742523902970,"lastModified":1742523602741},"{\"feedOffset\":0,\"feedSize\":1,\"tagSlug\":\"shelf-help\"}":{"data":{"content_elements":[{"_id":"VLXOKCGGZJFGZFOQ7K4PWZDMEY","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":116,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/11840176/media/c0e7cb4934b1411a4034e69e8472822b_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2024/05/28/a-delicious-and-highly-versatile-dip-from-fallon-byrne/","content_elements":[{"_id":"2OMVON4SNBFU3HPFOO7HSHJZTY","additional_properties":{"_id":1715851574972},"content":"What is it?","type":"header"},{"_id":"MM5DDORBUJA2LKROTLGL2GVMWQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1715851574973},"content":"Fallon & Byrne Cashel Blue cheese, sour cream and chive dip (€5.50/180g. Two for €10).","type":"text"},{"_id":"VUT6EGQVOFAW3C734OJAGFY5N4","additional_properties":{"_id":1715851574974},"content":"What’s good about it?","type":"header"},{"_id":"TKSKX47F6RBB7MPIC52WWH6PCM","additional_properties":{"_id":1715851574975},"content":"Summer is when a good dip comes into its own, and this is one of the best I have tasted. It has a strong blue cheese flavour and a light creamy consistency, with plenty of fresh chopped chives to balance the cheese. Despite being a fresh product, requiring refrigeration, it has a relatively long shelf life.","type":"text"},{"_id":"4652L5YYYZE4PJO46SH4UQ4J4I","additional_properties":{"_id":1715851574976},"content":"How do I use it?","type":"header"},{"_id":"7L3ASVXXMFBJZJXYGIIMV53OF4","additional_properties":{"_id":1715851574977},"content":"The obvious choice is to serve it with hot sauce chicken wings. It is also good with crudités. Any selection of crunchy, raw vegetables works well, but it is particularly good with slices of red pepper and cucumber and carrot batons. I have also used it as a dressing for a platter of grilled vegetables, as a sauce on the side with steak, and spooned it generously over a baked potato. Its versatility is one of its best qualities.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JLDXX2S3HJEZHFLWBU65FAHZ3U","additional_properties":{"_id":1715851574978},"content":"Where can I get it?","type":"header"},{"_id":"JOA67OGG35GJ3CIN3VSHGDXZZI","additional_properties":{"_id":1715851574979},"content":"You will find this one in the chill cabinets at Fallon & Byrne on Exchequer Street in Dublin 2 and online at <a href=\"https://www.fallonandbyrne.com/shop/groceries/chefs-to-go-range/dips/cashel-blue-cheese-dip-gf-180g/\" target=\"_blank\">fallonandbyrne.com</a>. However, it is easy to make at home. Just mash some ripe Cashel Blue and mix in sour cream and yoghurt or mayonnaise to taste. You can loosen it with a little milk if it is too thick.","type":"text"},{"_id":"R5XNUSTT65FPJL5UIH7UVVYM5E","additional_properties":{"_id":"HJ5RD22XCNGVVL4EU7NZD7YHLA"},"content":"Gorgeous spiced sausages that are 96% Irish pork","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"DUL62LABSRCSZH74FCXWJOVLBU","additional_properties":{"_id":1715851574980},"content":"Anything else?","type":"header"},{"_id":"KV6ZL4DCZBAG7NSRDVSQQHBWAA","additional_properties":{"_id":1715851574981},"content":"If you are picking this up in store, be sure to add a tub of Fallon & Byrne paté from the same section. It is one of the best I have tasted, and the two-for-€10 offer brings the cost down.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PDCOHYSUE5EBFECUVEW7QR67YA","additional_properties":{"_id":"MHAEH2G6ARF7DJ342X6ONDBSHQ"},"content":"A really great quality frozen pizza, streets ahead of the competition","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"73AEJHMMHRERNHEM2G2MQDENOM","additional_properties":{"_id":1715851574982},"content":"<i><b>Send your Shelf Help product suggestions to </b></i><a href=\"mailto:marieclaire.digby@irishtimes.com\"><i><b>marieclaire.digby@irishtimes.com</b></i></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Marie Claire Digby"}},"name":"Marie Claire Digby"}]},"description":{"basic":"Cashel Blue cheese, sour cream and chive dip works with everything from chicken wings to carrot batons and baked potato"},"display_date":"2024-05-28T04:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"A delicious and highly versatile dip from Fallon & Byrne","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"3DZKR57CWFGGFJC5EXTNHLWV5Y","auth":{"1":"cc9ed36c7455a2ef34971c55e88951a6c725f4ccb03e0ffc103222d11c1e394d"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/3DZKR57CWFGGFJC5EXTNHLWV5Y.jpeg"}},"subtype":"feature-smaller","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2024/05/28/a-delicious-and-highly-versatile-dip-from-fallon-byrne/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}}],"count":67,"_id":"2bd6102bf403089d92f0876caedff4677b95b11efe5b7e0b9c873527cb855441"},"expires":1742523902971,"lastModified":1742523602765},"{\"feedOffset\":0,\"feedSize\":1,\"tagSlug\":\"food-and-drink-quiz\"}":{"data":{"content_elements":[{"_id":"WZZNSMBAUBASJNPNODN7J2VQFI","additional_properties":{},"canonical_url":"/food/2025/03/14/food-drink-quiz-which-country-is-the-worlds-largest-producer-of-olive-oil/","content_elements":[{"_id":"ABL66C5UXJA3ZG4EW6T7D7ODUU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741874920092},"content":"Test your knowledge of all things gastronomic with these 10 questions set by Michelle and Greg Bowe. The Bowes run the <a href=\"http://www.thegreedycouple.com/\">Greedy Couple</a> website, where you can find their restaurant and food shopping guides.","type":"text"},{"_id":"GIIZ35UB5BGQZDMC5ASN72YB4E","additional_properties":{"_id":1741874920093},"content":"<div class=\"riddle2-wrapper\" data-rid-id=\"gjrXQY7P\" data-auto-scroll=\"true\" data-auto-scroll-offset=\"100\" data-is-fixed-height-enabled=\"false\" data-bg=\"#fff\" data-fg=\"#00205b\" style=\"margin:0 auto; max-width:100%; width:800px;\" data-embed-url=\"https://www.riddle.com/embed/a/gjrXQY7P?lazyImages=true&staticHeight=false\"><script src=\"https://www.riddle.com/embed/build-embedjs/embedV2.js\"><\/script><iframe title=\"Food & Drink Quiz for March 14\" allow=\"autoplay\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin\"><section data-block=\"SingleChoice\"><h3>Which herb is typically used in a classic Béarnaise sauce?</h3><ul><li>Tarragon </li><li>Basil</li><li>Parsley</li><li>Chives </li></ul></section><section data-block=\"SingleChoice\"><h3>Which country is famous for the dish bibimbap?</h3><ul><li>Thailand </li><li>South Korea</li><li>Japan </li><li>China</li></ul></section><section data-block=\"SingleChoice\"><h3>Which grape variety is primarily used to produce Barolo wine?</h3><ul><li>Nebbiolo </li><li>Merlot </li><li>Tempranillo</li><li>Sangiovese</li></ul></section><section data-block=\"SingleChoice\"><h3>Which city is known for its cheesesteak sandwich?</h3><ul><li>Chicago </li><li>New York</li><li>Philadelphia</li><li>Dallas </li></ul></section><section data-block=\"SingleChoice\"><h3>Which nut is most commonly used in pesto alla Genovese?</h3><ul><li>Almonds </li><li>Pine nuts </li><li>Walnuts </li><li>Cashews</li></ul></section><section data-block=\"SingleChoice\"><h3>Which of these cheeses is traditionally made from sheep milk?</h3><ul><li>Pecorino </li><li>Gouda</li><li>Brie </li><li>Cheddar </li></ul></section><section data-block=\"SingleChoice\"><h3>Which of these wine regions is most associated with Riesling?</h3><ul><li>Bordeaux </li><li>Rioja </li><li>Mosel</li><li>Napa Valley</li></ul></section><section data-block=\"SingleChoice\"><h3>Which of these pasta shapes is not typically stuffed?</h3><ul><li>Ravioli </li><li>Tortellini </li><li>Fusilli </li><li>Agnolotti </li></ul></section><section data-block=\"SingleChoice\"><h3>What is the primary ingredient in the French dish brandade?</h3><ul><li>Duck </li><li>Salt cod</li><li>Anchovies </li><li>Escargot </li></ul></section><section data-block=\"SingleChoice\"><h3>Which is the biggest olive oil producer in the world?</h3><ul><li>Italy </li><li>Spain </li><li>Greece</li><li>Turkey</li></ul></section></iframe></div>","type":"raw_html"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Michelle Bowe"},{"additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Greg Bowe"}]},"description":{"basic":"Plus: Where’s the best place to eat a cheesteak 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weeks"},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"TSB2N3PJXVEI7FBZ44GH7UZRHM","auth":{"1":"8091b312e901fabc55e6cca34527c0f508cc08785101eb966bea6eb2059f5656"},"focal_point":{"x":4915,"y":3050},"url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/TSB2N3PJXVEI7FBZ44GH7UZRHM.JPG"}},"website_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/20/china-tang-restaurant-review-youll-be-talking-about-the-peking-duck-for-weeks/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/restaurants","name":"Restaurants"}}}}]},"expires":1742524033944,"lastModified":1742523733297},"{\"feedOffset\":0,\"feedSize\":5,\"query\":\"(taxonomy.primary_section._id:\\\"/food/restaurants\\\") AND (subtype:\\\"Review\\\")\",\"size\":5}":{"data":{"content_elements":[{"_id":"V55M2UMEGNAF5NORB4G74JPZGE","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":354,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/a73ef01b-254d-41aa-aada-06816fdc3272/versions/1741710904/media/c804e3755903b03470efbeab1227c434_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/20/china-tang-restaurant-review-youll-be-talking-about-the-peking-duck-for-weeks/","content_elements":[{"_id":"VGJKCGCNBBBR5NKKNOAHL2QPUI","additional_properties":{"_id":"MER3MJQMXZBK3BVZONLVNMUSJY"},"embed":{"config":{},"id":"review-highlights-82556","url":"/"},"subtype":"review_powerup","type":"custom_embed"},{"_id":"TWCJZZQU4VB3VKIRKBALVX4QFU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716877},"content":"I remember the first time I had Peking duck. Not the <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/restaurants/\" target=\"_blank\">restaurant</a>, not the street, but the way it arrived – golden, glistening, a perfect lacquered dome – and the brief moment of panic over what I was supposed to do with it.","type":"text"},{"_id":"T6VYHUUIR5HTNE2YDYDOTTYYVM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716878},"content":"At the time, my Chinese dining experience was limited to Kites in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/ballsbridge/\" target=\"_blank\">Ballsbridge</a> and Kingsland on <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/dame-street/\" target=\"_blank\">Dame Street</a>, both in Dublin. I was in Cambridge for the <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/cambridge-university/\" target=\"_blank\">Magdalene College</a> May Ball, back when it was still a male-only college and hosted the only white-tie affair. There were plenty of nights out before and after. One evening, we went to a nearby Chinese restaurant – a group of eight, led by a Singaporean who knew exactly what he was doing.","type":"text"},{"_id":"I3UJZBL3WBCWZPBITD5Z5IP2HY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716879},"content":"Calm and precise, he assembled a pancake – hoisin, crisped skin, rich meat, cucumber, scallion – rolled it with care and handed it to me, as if it were the most natural thing in the world. He ditched law 25 years ago. Now, he owns the international Aqua Restaurant Group.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QJVF6G7MEJECRFO3LFQG7ZRH4M","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716880},"content":"So when China Tang opened in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/monkstown/\" target=\"_blank\">Monkstown</a> in February, claiming to be the first in Ireland to do Peking duck properly, I had to go.","type":"text"},{"_id":"CL2AUJ6UMJBBLK7ZE5MTKZLBTI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716881},"content":"This is the new outpost from the team behind Hakkahan in Stoneybatter, and Little Dumpling and <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/restaurants/review/2023/01/20/nan-chinese-review-i-put-my-chinese-friend-in-charge-of-ordering-a-feast-arrives/?\" target=\"_blank\">Nan Chinese Restaurant</a> on Stephen Street. A mirrored ceiling (far better than it sounds), a swanky bar and a room of circular booths, banquettes and tables for two is dramatic but inviting. I had ordered the Peking duck (€88) in advance – essential, since it takes two days of drying before hitting a bullet oven at blistering heat. They bring it when it’s ready.","type":"text"},{"_id":"RRREBAADTNG4NFNFXODLQNUJSI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716882},"content":"Which happens right as I scald my mouth on a xiao long bao (soup dumpling, €14 for three). I break through the delicate squid ink-infused skin, broth cascading down my spoon, scalding, unstoppable, just as the trolley rolls up beside us. Clearing these and the China Tang signature dumpling platter (€14 for four), becomes urgent. They’re delicious, even when inhaled at reckless speed.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WABOMSCTPVDLHNMYNDVSPSTTJE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716883},"content":"Peking duck at China Tang is theatre. It rolls in gleaming, a lacquered masterpiece, before Mr Chan – crisp whites from toque to toe – carves it with ceremony at the table. The skin is amber, glassy, brittle as spun sugar. Chan moves deftly, blade gliding, the first cut lifting a rectangle of skin, so crisp it seems weightless. This is our first bite. It cracks on contact, warm and rich, the fat melting instantly.","type":"text"},{"_id":"27BF544JEBDENF5A3WUX6PTZ6Y","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716884},"content":"He carves with precision, each piece falling away cleanly. We start assembling – house-made pancakes, soft and warm; hoisin, dark but restrained; scallions, sharp; cucumber, cool and crisp. Each bite collapses in layers – the crackle of skin, the richness of the meat, the hoisin pulling it together, the crunch of the vegetables adding freshness.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JRJLVREZQZFFTPBFWPK4GWUWT4","additional_properties":{"_id":"GGM5QRB6YNGBLG64F7WR4LOR7E"},"content":"Lena, Portobello review: This is the perfect restaurant, with the best fish dish I have eaten in years","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"ASYYM6PIN5EYBE7334PQ4L52IE","additional_properties":{"_id":1742296290653},"type":"image"},{"_id":"JI3JC7CMDZCTBHVP5O7F2MIQLA","additional_properties":{"_id":1742296290656},"type":"image"},{"_id":"LJY4AAHB5ZCBTCNHPWMS3YSXEQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1742296290657},"type":"image"},{"_id":"U6L4G4SXZBAY7CNTGPOBL6DJZY","additional_properties":{"_id":1742296290658},"type":"image"},{"_id":"DX7XWH5X4RFNXPPNIUIEK7DKJI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716885},"content":"We drink Segredos São Miguel (€30), an unremarkable but fruity Portuguese red. It’s good to see a few bottles under €40 on the wine list, but for something more serious, there’s Gaja and Château Lynch-Bages.","type":"text"},{"_id":"B5GCAXSJNVHJVCTB3GZFGBTTKA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716886},"content":"The second course of Peking duck can feel like an afterthought. Mr Chan has glided away with his trolley and the remains of the bird which are scheduled to return as either wok-fried salt and chilli duck, or in a soup of tofu and salted pickled vegetables. We have opted to have ours wok-fried. Chunks of duck on the bone arrive – darker, crispier, with just enough cumin to take it in an unexpected but welcome direction. We are too full to do it justice and ask for the rest to be packed up.","type":"text"},{"_id":"NH6IPSCZEFDKNIPDGNBTOOJJVM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716887},"content":"Dessert is pumpkin sweet wine soup with rice balls (€6). Our waitress says it’s one of her favourite dishes. In China, they eat it in the morning, at festivals, as a symbol of reunion. The rice balls float like little planets, chewy, delicate, a contrast to the silky broth. It is not overly sweet, not heavy, just comforting and warm.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WS6XAUXFXRBCRG2VDKVWU3Q6GY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716888},"content":"Of course, the big question is whether the Peking duck is worth €88. Two years ago, that price would have been a shock. Now, with restaurant prices soaring, it feels almost inevitable. Share it between two, and you’ll need little else. More importantly, you’ll be talking about it for weeks. Some dishes demand ceremony, and this is one of them – an exercise in precision, from the crackle of skin to the gleam of perfectly carved meat. The kind of meal that stays with you long after the last bite. It just might be one of the best you eat this year.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WC2Y43ZDBFFWXMAMMENMIQBSTY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716889},"content":"Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €152.","type":"text"},{"_id":"U2MGORRIGZE4NKJZZCSATHFI6M","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716890},"content":"<b>The Verdict:</b> Top tier Peking duck.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5PSNPT4FE5ENBFBK7IOVWYEZZQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716891},"content":"<b>Food provenance:</b> FX Buckley, Andarl Farm, Silverhill Ducks, La Rousse Foods, Jackie Leonard & Sons, George’s Fish Shop, and Keelings.","type":"text"},{"_id":"CSKZWEJW4REPJM5BKUFJSZK2YE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716892},"content":"<b>Vegetarian options:</b> Tofu and vegetable soup, vegetable dumpling, Sichuan stir-fried fine beans, and stir-fried baby broccoli with ginger sauce.","type":"text"},{"_id":"2AYKVRWCURBN7K2DFIZ7B3TXVE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716893},"content":"<b>Wheelchair access:</b> No accessible room or toilet.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DY56VAEPNJDXTHH4ME53SIPSBE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741603716894},"content":"<b>Music:</b> A chilled vibe with Cookin’ on 3 Burners and Carol Duboc.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Corinna Hardgrave"}},"name":"Corinna Hardgrave"}]},"description":{"basic":"    "},"display_date":"2025-03-20T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"China Tang review: You’ll be talking about the Peking duck for weeks","native":"Restaurant review: You’ll be talking about the Peking duck for weeks"},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"TSB2N3PJXVEI7FBZ44GH7UZRHM","auth":{"1":"8091b312e901fabc55e6cca34527c0f508cc08785101eb966bea6eb2059f5656"},"focal_point":{"x":4915,"y":3050},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/TSB2N3PJXVEI7FBZ44GH7UZRHM.JPG"}},"subtype":"review","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Restaurants"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/20/china-tang-restaurant-review-youll-be-talking-about-the-peking-duck-for-weeks/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/restaurants","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Restaurants"}}}},{"_id":"S3AEJKKOLVCH3EJMQCLQULFDN4","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":362,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/c29c54b5-163a-4d4a-8588-f2fdba411987/versions/1741169127/media/0c67c1b72dcc90dbfb68c5e9c2518213_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/13/first-look-lena-is-the-perfect-restaurant-the-best-fish-dish-i-have-eaten-in-years/","content_elements":[{"_id":"C46GARTZ3RANRBSAP2ZDX66NTM","additional_properties":{"_id":"CULYO42R6JG3FFKY6XGILU4A4Q"},"embed":{"config":{},"id":"review-highlights-58797","url":"/"},"subtype":"review_powerup","type":"custom_embed"},{"_id":"PEZURDVJQVEPRAUU6PWHXFBZJM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899021},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/italy/\" target=\"_self\">Italy</a> is a minefield for the hungry. Even the most promising shopkeeper – the kind who clearly eats well every day – will send you on a wild-goose chase if you don’t ask for a recommendation in the right way. The trick, I discovered, is to nod through their list of trattorias, wait for them to finish, then say, “Ah, yes, but where do you take your mother?” At which point, the real answer arrives, hushed and conspiratorial, as though passing on the co-ordinates to buried treasure.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HNGMZHV2EJGSNOGH5MHOVAOOMA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899022},"content":"A better trick is to be there at the same time as an Italian with impeccable taste and a duty to keep you fed. In this case, Enrico Fantasia (yes, real name) – a Venetian a wine importer, and a fellow who considers cream in carbonara an act of war.","type":"text"},{"_id":"C7FPDR6UCVBNFL3BMB4GUACDKE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741798620482},"content":"At Ristorante Al Covo, plate after plate arrived. Each dish, a pure expression of that morning’s Rialto market haul, fresh from the Venetian lagoon – three or four perfect ingredients, revered like holy relics.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5Q2NRNB6ZVBW7LCIIF43Z4ZMCQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899023},"content":"This steady parade of dishes, one at a time, is for me the finest way to eat Italian food. I adopt this strategy at Lena in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/portobello/\" target=\"_self\">Portobello</a> – formerly Locks, now one of the year’s most anticipated openings, led by Liz Matthews, Simon Barrett and Paul McNamara (all of <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/food-and-drink/restaurant-reviews/uno-mas-review-we-knew-etto-s-sister-restaurant-would-be-great-it-s-perfect-1.3725216\" target=\"_self\">Uno Mas</a> and Etto) – where the only way to launch into the menu of antipasti, primi, secondi, and dolci is by starting with sage and anchovy fritti (€8).","type":"text"},{"_id":"EEZ53D6UKNFWLNO6V26DUS6JOA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899024},"type":"image"},{"_id":"5Q2NRNB6ZVBW7LCIIF43Z4ZMCQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899025},"content":"Two parcels arrive – a sage leaf in spliced anchovy, crisp in golden batter, a burst of umami and salt mellowed by heat. So perfect with a glass of Colomba Bianca, “Vitese”, Grillo (€36.50) from a phenomenal wine list that has been compiled by Barrett and restaurant manager Cian Lynch, who will be familiar to Uno Mas regulars. In fact, you’ll see quite a few familiar faces, including Dovy Stasys, who has worked front of house in Locks since 2020. Already Lena feels like it has been open for years.","type":"text"},{"_id":"SINVFOWAFZEXHB7UCIEQM775XI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899026},"content":"Wild sea bass crudo (€15) from the primi section is an example of exactly why Italy remains undefeated in the business of assembling a few ingredients and making them taste like a revelation. Cured sea bass, blood orange, rosemary and opaque slices of radish – that’s it. But then you taste it – the fresh, firm sea bass, the peppery, earthy crunch of the radish, the oil from the rosemary nudging its way across the acid-sweetness of the blood orange – and the whole thing ties together magically.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DO56IFCEUJGOHMDRCEAZQ2UMAU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899027},"type":"image"},{"_id":"LANBKMVLDVE33GXVKQFXEHZ7DM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899028},"content":"Then, pici cacio e pepe (€16) – flour, water, Pecorino Romano, black pepper – nowhere to hide. The pasta, made in-house using a La Monferrina pasta machine, is thick and chewy, a muscular twirl of dough carrying its emulsified sauce with confidence. A glance around the room and I find that I’m not the only one sweeping a finger across the plate, unwilling to let a single drop of it go.","type":"text"},{"_id":"K3RIXFF6GJHEZMFUXD7YS4ERQQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899029},"type":"image"},{"_id":"LANBKMVLDVE33GXVKQFXEHZ7DM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899030},"content":"The grilled wild halibut (€33) arrives, burnished outside, trembling inside at the suggestion of a knife. A Jerusalem artichoke purée sits beneath it, adding a soft nuttiness, while crisped artichoke brings texture. Tarragon oil slices through with the precision of a lightning strike, while a beautifully balanced, buttery vermouth sauce wraps it in silk. This is the best fish dish I have eaten in years.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5VMGM4J4AREORLXYKKHDWXQ4KE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899031},"content":"And then the veal shin osso buco (€32), a contrast in weight and flavour, the bone standing proud, filled with trembling marrow. The saffron-tinted risotto, each grain distinct, shimmers with butter and the undertones of smoked bone marrow; the gremolata adds a sharp, grassy counterpoint. The slow-cooked veal is still pink inside, still carrying that umami depth, and still full of life. The risotto is al dente, and finishing it is a two-person job.","type":"text"},{"_id":"RRUPORR5GFEX5B5REZB2HAZB6Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1741798620492},"content":"2025 is going to be the hardest year yet for cafes. My salary is two-thirds the amount I was paid in my previous PAYE job","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"SQD26NY6UVERXG5DPN5ZZDS4OQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899032},"content":"The tiramisu (€10), layers of mascarpone, coffee, cocoa, and sponge, is destined to become the signature dish here, like the red wine prunes with mascarpone in Etto and the flan de queso in Uno Mas. It’s deliciously floppy, not cloying. The coffee is sharp, not bitter. The top is dusted with micro-planed chocolate. But it’s the rum baba (€10) that delivers the final, effortless knockout. It is not the usual booze-sodden sponge, but a version so light you could eat it for breakfast. Champagne and new season rhubarb bring a fresh snap of spring.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KQRHHPYH3JA5ZB7NQRYPVBVYGU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899033},"content":"Lena understands seasonality, balance and restraint at an instinctive level. Serious cooking is masked as effortless simplicity. It’s a restaurant so quietly assured in its ability that it makes others feel over-styled and under-thought. It’s not just good – it’s the perfect restaurant.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OXNNXUKOWJA3XGPG3WOXNBVIQM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899034},"content":"Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €160.50.","type":"text"},{"_id":"P2TMUIPNPNDHJEYBWDJKPGQFUY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899035},"content":"<b>The verdict</b> I am in love; this is the perfect restaurant.","type":"text"},{"_id":"BQC4BAB45NERVHTUTHCLCUFQSE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899036},"content":"<b>Food provenance</b> Glenmar, Hannan’s beef, Pigs on the Green, and McNally’s vegetables.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ZDY3MFAZTNAURD3ZOTAQFCNXHI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899037},"content":"<b>Vegetarian options</b> Focaccia, supplì al telefono, buffalo mozzarella, pici cacio e pepe, and pumpkin and ricotta mezzaluna.","type":"text"},{"_id":"W2KFKLUO5NBENOUK45TNIZS3JM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899038},"content":"<b>Wheelchair access</b> Accessible room with no accessible toilet.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KBA5NF3BCRGBTJ37H265DBBMTM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741712899039},"content":"<b>Music</b> Sault and soul in the background.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Corinna Hardgrave"}},"name":"Corinna Hardgrave"}]},"description":{"basic":"    "},"display_date":"2025-03-13T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Lena, Portobello review: This is the perfect restaurant, with the best fish dish I have eaten in years","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"32TH7AE7GZF4BKPUINEWZKCT6A","auth":{"1":"881a06d777c3d21cce68f5f29254d4569aecdcbff85117d3ad7d2733c9a1f174"},"focal_point":{"x":2249,"y":1541},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/32TH7AE7GZF4BKPUINEWZKCT6A.JPG"}},"subtype":"review","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Restaurants"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/13/first-look-lena-is-the-perfect-restaurant-the-best-fish-dish-i-have-eaten-in-years/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/restaurants","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Restaurants"}}}},{"_id":"PTMG2CBCVZB6JISNSMQRV3O2EY","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":362,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/9c4459d4-3b36-40b8-ac81-a087225a03da/versions/1740478969/media/0e74ec873a55ae89e7b33535e328174b_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/06/the-bucks-head-review-beat-a-path-to-this-co-down-spot-with-serious-michelin-pedigree/","content_elements":[{"_id":"25LV4BQA3ZAQ3IVSSY25LXJ2DY","additional_properties":{"_id":"IJLP77SRXFECLCSUFRO2B5ZWII"},"embed":{"config":{},"id":"review-highlights-58204","url":"/"},"subtype":"review_powerup","type":"custom_embed"},{"_id":"MPIF2AIALVC4XB5OYNLAS43FLM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848428},"content":"From the outside, The Bucks Head still looks like the village pub it has always been – a perfect spot for a pint and a bite after a hike in the <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/down/\" target=\"_blank\">Mournes</a>. Step inside and there’s a cosy front bar, but head towards the back and you’ll find the newly built diningroom – brighter, sleeker but still relaxed.","type":"text"},{"_id":"CUSAOIRLHJEJDFV6SN2GWKT3KE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848429},"content":"Chef Alex Greene and Bronagh McCormick – both veterans of <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/belfast/\" target=\"_blank\">Belfast</a>’s now-closed Deanes Eipic – bought and refurbished the property, reopening it in April last year. Greene’s name will be familiar to anyone with an interest in Northern Irish food. After stints at Petrus and Claridge’s under <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/gordon-ramsay/\" target=\"_blank\">Gordon Ramsay</a>, appearances on Great British Menu, and a <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/michelin/\" target=\"_blank\">Michelin</a> star at Eipic, he’s back where it all began – scrubbing potatoes and washing dishes as a teenager in this very kitchen.","type":"text"},{"_id":"3KIERLT3M5DFPDQJCER6SEYL2A","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848430},"content":"The new open kitchen juts into the room, Greene in plain sight as he finishes the plating under the heat lamps. There’s no chef’s table, no bar stools, and no theatre – just the quiet focus of a team getting on with the job.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OE2GECNA4ZH2PPIRVKTY4U7DS4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848431},"content":"The menu, spanning snacks, starters, mains and desserts, strikes a clever balance of comfort and ambition. There’s a snack of bread and butter pudding (£5.95), a savoury version, with thick slices of custardy bread sandwiched together with mushroom and black garlic, finished with a snowfall of Parmesan. The mushroom delivers a deep umami hit, while the black garlic adds a sweet, earthy depth, somewhere between miso and balsamic. It’s superb.","type":"text"},{"_id":"XCGQPIO5YNAAVGGOIJS5KFEWDI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848432},"content":"Then there’s the mushroom tart (£9.95) – about six different mushroom varieties, roasted, pickled, and sliced raw – sitting on top of bacon jam in a filo pastry tartlet, finished with a herb and mushroom powder. Crunchy pastry, earthy mushrooms and the sharp tang of a brown butter sauce. It’s an assembly job, so convenient for the kitchen, but still very tasty.","type":"text"},{"_id":"TWCIBGKBWVDUXE3QLB4IBDM6GU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848433},"type":"image"},{"_id":"XEBSTB7R65ADLPGCCOXETWADZU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848434},"content":"More intricate is the ravioli (£13.95), three black pasta parcels filled with crab and pork. A langoustine sauce is poured over at the table, splitting the verdant pool of coriander oil. Rich but not cloying, it’s a light-handed reduction. The pasta is thin, delicate, and expertly made, while apple matchsticks and a scattering of chervil add freshness. A spoon arrives for the sauce, which tells you everything you need to know.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WHJYWHFHBRET5MTBSPFQA65AEE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848435},"content":"A 500ml carafe of Picpoul de Pinet (£22.95) from a list that offers 13 options by the glass and 11 by the carafe is a refreshing match with our fish-based dishes.","type":"text"},{"_id":"IJWUL5ZVWNFKHGWSUJJNJ3PJFY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848436},"content":"For mains, large Kilkeel scallops (£28.50) arrive seared – golden-brown and caramelised on the outside. They sit with roast cauliflower in a foamy beurre blanc, studded with a small dice of potato and a few pearls of salmon roe. The sauce is rich but light, with just enough chive oil to lift the flavour without overwhelming the scallops.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ORI62N452VBCDG2QRTFQX47O44","additional_properties":{"_id":"FBWZXV2SCJFA3JCC65QWEVQHHI"},"content":"San Sab takeaway review: Tasty Thai street food and a spice bag with twist","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"JB4FVLFBRBBPJBQMKVCXSTVDV4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848437},"type":"image"},{"_id":"F5M6BQN5FFB57BCZ4JRSJTUL5U","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848438},"type":"image"},{"_id":"BZM6WEKSLRH7JE2FU4GXCGKYKM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848439},"type":"image"},{"_id":"5H2IBPXEDVGPPLBS4PS5SIDZX4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848440},"type":"image"},{"_id":"GXJRZH56X5GV5AHUL3KS3DHHNQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848441},"content":"The halibut – today’s market fish, at £32 – is equally well-judged, served with a side of baby potatoes roasted in their skins. It’s a generous piece of fish, golden and crisp on top, with charred broccoli, a tangle of lightly blanched kale, and a garlic and herb butter that’s rich enough to feel indulgent without being heavy.","type":"text"},{"_id":"UCUTSEHWBRHKDMCL6APAIYGKNI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848442},"type":"image"},{"_id":"WB3MZ62SMFAFDEZTENM3IHHMSE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848445},"content":"Desserts are well-priced at £7.95. The apple crumble is straightforward – apple slices with a hazelnut crumble, whiskey creme Anglaise, and vanilla ice cream. It’s good, though those expecting the heft of a traditional crumble might be left wanting. The lemon tart, served as an individual portion in buttery pastry, is sharp, sweet and neatly done, with honey drizzled over the ice cream. Both are enjoyable, though after the precision of the savoury dishes, they lean more Bib Gourmand than Michelin star.","type":"text"},{"_id":"MBO6AFQKWNG6DPSW4YDIILAJAE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848446},"content":"‘Great places to eat at moderate prices in Ireland’: Michelin’s Bib Gourmand restaurants 2025","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"KIRKUBY76ZG2TAAI4F3KT7BQE4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848447},"content":"Still, that’s The Bucks Head’s charm. It is more interested in its diners than chasing stars. Some people want steak and chips, others scallops and langoustine ravioli, and that’s absolutely fine. Greene and McCormick have breathed new life into this 18th-century inn, balancing fine-dining finesse with crowd-pleasers. Underpinning this is Greene’s Michelin pedigree, with confident, unfussy cooking, and sauces that are skilfully executed.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KTGEYAUX65EJNAFR2GWBICMYFM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848448},"content":"This balance of ambition and accessibility sets The Bucks Head apart. Whether it’s scampi and triple-cooked chips in the bar or halibut and a glass of wine in the diningroom, the care and attention are the same. Some dishes wouldn’t look out of place in a Michelin-starred kitchen; others are simpler but just as satisfying. Either way, you leave planning your next visit – and wondering if you might even stay the night.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ONS5UYRG6RBKHPLD7PJYHVCJ2Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848449},"content":"Dinner for two with a 500ml carafe of wine and 10 per cent service charge was £142.67 (€172).","type":"text"},{"_id":"LUN6KADPFNH73B6WLG7EKGEPIU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848450},"content":"<b>The Verdict:</b> 8.5/10. Confident, unfussy cooking, skilfully executed","type":"text"},{"_id":"2ROUSQI7VVF4LH2ICBSI7PPLR4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848451},"content":"<b>Food provenance:</b> Mushrooms, foraged and Hearty Growers, Belfast; seafood and fish, locally sourced; Carnbrook salt aged beef; and Rockvale Poultry.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ENIOTJC6CZAVPE3L45FWTRLOJY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848452},"content":"<b>Vegetarian options:</b> Spiced carrot soup with sourdough, mushroom tart, and potato gnocchi with squash and hazelnut.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PDZBNOFYEBAOPMZMCACAIWUW2E","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848453},"content":"<b>Wheelchair access:</b> Fully accessible with an accessible toilet.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DPPXBEPOH5HWJBJQFI74FQM2CU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741102848454},"content":"<b>Music: </b>Planet Wave House and Soulway in the background.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Corinna Hardgrave"}},"name":"Corinna Hardgrave"}]},"description":{"basic":"    "},"display_date":"2025-03-06T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"The Bucks Head review: This historic venue has serious Michelin pedigree, but the focus is on pleasing customers","native":"Restaurant review: This historic venue has serious Michelin pedigree - but the focus is on pleasing customers"},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"DQTWMVTWDZGALPSP4HZOQZOP6A","auth":{"1":"842fcc1ae13cd2820b47ec5662d83c74e11b6bfcb128ae7bee7a829e96752ad1"},"focal_point":{"x":1495,"y":1058},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/DQTWMVTWDZGALPSP4HZOQZOP6A.jpg"}},"subtype":"review","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Restaurants"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/03/06/the-bucks-head-review-beat-a-path-to-this-co-down-spot-with-serious-michelin-pedigree/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/restaurants","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Restaurants"}}}},{"_id":"ON2LLODZABBLVJDQY6NJ5O67EA","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":368,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/30ce235d-a3ba-4c2b-9626-d2f050c1b65e/versions/1739894806/media/29eecdcc0b4784cb1a33e8d0adf7b814_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/02/27/caribou-restaurant-review-this-is-first-and-foremost-a-hip-bar-but-it-takes-its-food-seriously-3/","content_elements":[{"_id":"CNMJJ5IHPFHJPF72RQYOZ6H53U","additional_properties":{"_id":"AWASGN3TM5GD5FWMNBBRDMZLHM"},"embed":{"config":{},"id":"review-highlights-59396","url":"/"},"subtype":"review_powerup","type":"custom_embed"},{"_id":"TXPBMDGDKZHHPD2E5JU7HQQE5Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175648},"content":"Caribou is not a <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/restaurants/\" target=\"_blank\">restaurant</a>. It is not a place where you book a three-course lunch, sit through a solemn parade of amuse-bouches, and sigh wistfully over wine pairings. It is, first and foremost, a bar – but one where the food is taken seriously.","type":"text"},{"_id":"6EB5D2KMBZCBXHKPGD46V2SACI","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175649},"content":"The owners – Hugh O’Farrell, Shane Clifford, and Declan Murphy – have been running bars for years. They started with Caribou in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/galway/\" target=\"_blank\">Galway</a> in 2016 (since closed), before adding Impala (<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/cork/\" target=\"_blank\">Cork</a>), Bonobo (Smithfield), Kodiak (<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/rathmines/\" target=\"_blank\">Rathmines</a>), and Jackal (Navan). They worked for the group behind <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/food-and-drink/barfly-p-macs-stephen-street-lower-dublin-2-1.2460131\" target=\"_blank\">P Macs</a>, so when the lease came up, they took it over and reopened under the Caribou name. It’s still lively, still packed, but now with a strong food offering alongside the drinks.","type":"text"},{"_id":"7ZK2SCJ4ORDMLI73OBYA5LRRRU","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175650},"content":"Inside, it’s a world away from its former life as P Macs, with its dive bar vibe and dark colour palette. Now, it’s all warm woods, bright light from the large windows – perfect for people-watching – and a wraparound bar lined with serious beer taps. Music pumps at full volume, a reminder that this is, primarily, a place to drink. Big communal tables fill the room, a snug or two at the back, and front-row seating outside.","type":"text"},{"_id":"4K44Y5GUGFHHBP5MMM3CIBRYCQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175651},"content":"It’s walk-in only, which makes sense, but when you’re here for the weekend roasts – four of us, giving the menu a proper workout – it would be nice to have the certainty of a table. The waitress lets us know there’ll be a short wait before ordering – the kitchen likes to manage the flow – but before we even have time to think of it as an inconvenience, she’s back with a complimentary dish of smoked almonds.","type":"text"},{"_id":"TSPHUN4IJZDKLMT6J2V5J2354Y","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175652},"content":"There are no starters, just “bites” if you fancy something to pick at. Bigger plates include roasts, a double smash burger, karaage chicken burger, IPA-battered fish sandwich, full fish and chips, a Caesar salad, and a squash toastie. The drinks list leans on craft beer, top-notch cocktails and a functional wine selection with the occasional ringer from <a href=\"https://grapecircus.ie/\" target=\"_blank\">Grapecircus</a>, one of the country’s top wine importers.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ELZ26BBVDNGEJEBLA5CRD4LBYM","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175653},"content":"A new gastropub on Dublin’s north side, without the usual cliches","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"5IFGAT2YFBEC3ELL3WSNH7LVHU","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175654},"content":"We start with gildas (€7 for two) – plump Gordal olives, anchovy and guindilla pepper, salty and sharp, the kind of thing that wakes up your palate. A Guinness (€6.90), a Poacher’s soda (€3.50), a no-alcohol Down in My Plums (€10) – tart, fruity, well-made – and a glass of Zweigelt (€9.50), a juicy Austrian natural wine, set us up for what’s to come.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WWAMUPBGF5BOVCDUD7SQXZLLAA","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175655},"content":"The bacon and cabbage (€22) arrives with three thick Buckfast-glazed slices of meat, the glaze giving it a glossy, sticky sweetness. It has been cooked ahead of time and reheated, which is fair enough for service, but you can tell. It is not the heart-swelling, just-carved stuff you hope for. The cabbage is excellent, silky in parsley sauce, the plate stacked with roasties, miso-glazed carrots and parsnips, and a scoop of celeriac purée beneath the mash. A slightly hipster touch. It is buttery, rich, almost sweet, though it could do with a little acidity to keep it in check.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PPZCFAJ7WFBPLJXSOC7SPRMQJE","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175656},"type":"image"},{"_id":"FX3MB4D2QZBOBOI7E3U6HKOFUA","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175657},"content":"The roast rump of beef (€22) comes in two cuts – one thick, rare and a little tough; the other sliced from a different joint, more tender and cooked to medium. The Yorkshire pudding is magnificent, the size of a baby’s head – craggy, golden, perfect. Charred tender-stem broccoli adds green to the plate which also includes mash, celeriac purée and roasties. The Guinness gravy is dark, but one-note, with a touch of sweetness rather than savoury depth. A spritz of lemon would sharpen it up. The vegetarian dinner (€22) has properly roasted celeriac, caramelised, soft but structured, with an earthy sweetness.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JBY7RUB775G3XAEDZ3XOZ425SY","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175658},"type":"image"},{"_id":"3DGGWS4JGFGIRN5WK7XWGVNI4U","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175659},"content":"But the best thing on the menu isn’t a roast – it’s the fish and chips (€20). Crisp golden batter cracking apart to reveal pearly, perfectly cooked cod. The triple-cooked chips could be hotter, but they’re solid, properly crunchy. The crushed peas are fresh and bright, and the home-made chunky tartare sauce is sharp with lemon and capers.","type":"text"},{"_id":"G42ZSCEVO5FENP3RJR7HGHDII4","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175660},"content":"100 great restaurants, cafes and places to eat in Ireland","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"7V7RWPH7EVEADANJXDKWSHWT4E","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175661},"content":"There is no dessert. Nothing to round things off, which is a bit of a disappointment, but four packets of “Be Mine” Lovehearts arrive with the bill, a small but thoughtful touch.","type":"text"},{"_id":"6XSPDF23CZC73M2P5JDR42IT5E","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175662},"content":"No one rushes us out. The music stays loud, the tables keep filling. For a bar that serves food, Caribou gets a lot right. The roasts are big, generous, well thought out – if not perfectly executed. The service is sharp, the room lively, the fish and chips first rate. And in a city where good roasts are still too hard to find, that’s reason enough to come back.","type":"text"},{"_id":"M6UOLUL4JVERLP6M43ULWJPGK4","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175663},"content":"Lunch for four with four drinks was €129.50.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DAD7HHXZZRD55GAWJWHO2SKWQQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175664},"content":"<b>The Verdict: </b>Good food in one of Dublin’s hippest bars.","type":"text"},{"_id":"T3RAMHYET5GTZMVXUSXKGII3VE","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175665},"content":"<b>Food provenance:</b> Free-range pork from Hugh Maguire jnr, free-range chicken from McLoughlin’s, fish from Kish Fish and bread from Oak Smoke Bakery.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OY2NMIVBUBFQ7P4OHJTICGSLJU","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175666},"content":"<b>Vegetarian options:</b> Roast celeriac with Yorkshire pudding and vegetables; and butternut squash toastie.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HHGM6X3AIJDCJNJBKCSOKFKICM","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175667},"content":"<b>Wheelchair access:</b> Fully accessible with an accessible toilet.","type":"text"},{"_id":"VJWV5NYCXJHWPNW6OJ7CGCOTTA","additional_properties":{"_id":1740570175668},"content":"<b>Music:</b> English Teacher, Lola Young and indie tunes at high volume.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Corinna Hardgrave"}},"name":"Corinna Hardgrave"}]},"description":{"basic":"    "},"display_date":"2025-02-27T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Caribou restaurant review: A hip Dublin bar where the best thing on the menu isn’t even the roast","native":"Restaurant review: A hip Dublin bar where the best thing on the menu isn’t even the roast"},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"BQLJYJUI75BGVNY3SLDERQKZGM","auth":{"1":"db412b8b1fa71b03456ddef37192f6efef12c6e78e93d61b796cec2505d2b960"},"focal_point":{"x":2190,"y":995},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/BQLJYJUI75BGVNY3SLDERQKZGM.JPG"}},"subtype":"review","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Restaurants"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/02/27/caribou-restaurant-review-this-is-first-and-foremost-a-hip-bar-but-it-takes-its-food-seriously-3/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/restaurants","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Restaurants"}}}},{"_id":"JFFWCC2B6ZF67OL7AYCJALMI3U","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":387,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/41278361-6a16-415f-b254-09a6a012e9fb/versions/1739274897/media/d028c561aab1a9dd3110fb9c5f84470f_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/restaurants/review/2025/02/20/hana-izakaya-review-not-everything-is-perfect-at-dublins-new-japanese-restaurant-but-its-fun-and-friendly-with-lots-to-like/","content_elements":[{"_id":"SYVDXMI5LRCPBI4HFGNC6GI6DM","additional_properties":{"_id":"V2YIQAFTOVATPITYB6UJEMM6EY"},"embed":{"config":{},"id":"review-highlights-56388","url":"/"},"subtype":"review_powerup","type":"custom_embed"},{"_id":"K7AQ3HFCFZARXF6DEI4LOZ77FY","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141042},"content":"I discovered yakitori the proper way, in a Tokyo back alley, at a counter in a nondescript izakaya, squeezed between male suits and labourers. The chef barked out orders as he flipped skewers of chicken thigh, heart and impossibly crisped skin, crackled into submission over a floor-level grill. The air was thick with tare-scented smoke, and the rhythm was relentless – order, cook, serve, repeat. There was no plating, no ceremony, just skewers dragged straight from flame to hand.","type":"text"},{"_id":"UGSWBIVGTVFQRPJ5IJUAB5O4IQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141043},"content":"But tradition, like fire, catches on. And it was Yardbird in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/hong-kong/\" target=\"_self\">Hong Kong</a> that took this primal, hole-in-the-wall experience and sanded down its rougher edges for a crowd that wanted its yakitori with better lighting and a natural <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/wine/\" target=\"_blank\">wine</a> list. Chef Matt Abergel stripped it back to its core – beak-to-tail cooking with a singular focus on chicken – but framed it in a setting that felt more Brooklyn than Shinjuku. It is on my bucket list; for now, I have his cookbook, Chicken and Charcoal, to ponder.","type":"text"},{"_id":"N4YXIY7IIREUFHQP5BAXH2T5JI","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141045},"content":"Its influence, of course, has spread – it has a <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/michelin/\" target=\"_self\">Michelin</a> star and featured on the World’s 50 best list – and my most recent brush with this style of cooking was in Athens, where Birdman delivers Yardbird’s brand of modernised, binchotan-fuelled chicken worship, in the kind of slick operation that repackages a centuries-old format as the only way to eat.","type":"text"},{"_id":"LAMS232DURE6NFPNGDROOOIJQE","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141046},"content":"Bringing something of that ilk, but with a broader menu, is Hana Izakaya on <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/capel-street/\" target=\"_blank\">Capel Street</a>, which was opened by the people behind <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/food-and-drink/restaurant-reviews/musashi-noodles-and-sushi-bar-proper-sushi-at-a-snip-1.493141\">Musashi</a> at the beginning of February. The menu leads with charcoal-grilled skewers – chicken, beef, pork belly, prawn, squid, octopus and vegetables – cooked over binchotan (Japanese charcoal) and served salted or glazed in tare (Japanese sauce). Tempura joins sushi – hosomaki (salmon, tuna, avocado), nigiri (eel, sea bream, ikura), indulgent rolls (flamed salmon, soft-shell crab) – plus udon and Japanese curries. Sake, plum wine and a wine list with a few bottles hitting the €30-€40 mark keep things lubricated. A 200ml flask of cold sake (€9.50) sees us through.","type":"text"},{"_id":"LAMS232DURE6NFPNGDROOOIJQE","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141048},"content":"Thankfully, they let you order in waves here, which is exactly how an izakaya should run – no forced commitment to a full meal plan up front, just rounds of food as you fancy. In fact the service is notably good. Plates of sushi fly past, mostly soft-shell crab rolls, a house favourite, but we go for sashimi – three pieces of bluefin tuna (€9), generous, nicely cut, fresh tasting. Tuna hosomaki (€9.50 for six pieces) though, is a let-down, looking suspiciously like they’ve been prepped hours ahead, the nori (seaweed) soft and chewy. The ikura nigiri (€6.95) is better. The nori, although not toasted, is notably crisper, and the salmon roe has a briny pop.","type":"text"},{"_id":"GSIBWSGKVJBW5FLGARMFUQOF5I","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141049},"content":"The skewers, which I had expected to be a highlight, are less convincing. Octopus (€6.95) arrives, well-charred, looking promising, but the first bite gives it away. It’s been in the fridge, finished too briefly on the grill, barely warm inside. Tender and lacquered, yes, but lacking the deep, caramelised intensity binchotan should give a good tare. Without it, yakitori feels one-dimensional.","type":"text"},{"_id":"GSIBWSGKVJBW5FLGARMFUQOF5I","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141051},"content":"The minced chicken (€5.95) is forgettable (the chicken is from Poland and not free range), although the chicken thigh (€5.95) fares better in flavour. So too does the beef belly (€6.50). Both are properly cooked through, though, once again, I find myself searching for the flavour of the tare; it tastes more like a straight-up soy sauce glaze.","type":"text"},{"_id":"Y6E3EMAC3FAI5BPHGAY4UAUIYM","additional_properties":{"_id":1739978396466},"content":"First Look: Portobello’s new Italian restaurant from the people behind Uno Mas and Etto","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"YEA56OZOSJCM7G73DMJYHUMNUU","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141052},"content":"Then come the fried dishes, and here’s where it picks up. Gyoza (€8.50) are blisteringly hot and pleasingly crisp-edged, packed with a chicken and vegetable filling that looks properly house-made, rather than pulled from a freezer bag. Prawn and vegetable tempura (€12.50) is even better – light enough batter, if not the most intricate lacy sort, but fried to a satisfying crunch. Aubergine is the standout, craggy outside, silk-soft inside, the dipping sauce warm and properly seasoned.","type":"text"},{"_id":"TC6HIJM7ABAQ7EW5VZTFUJUGCM","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141044},"type":"image"},{"_id":"533QIKS42JG7FM4JXWHSE4GS6Y","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141047},"type":"image"},{"_id":"C2YFWJXRP5BPZCLQA4UR6VK5MY","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141050},"type":"image"},{"_id":"P6JAKTDOUFFMJO2PUZEK4F4GNI","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141053},"content":"There’s just one dessert option, a matcha Basque cheesecake (€9.50), which leans deliciously into its savoury side, creamy, with an almost roasted popcorn-like depth. A strong finish.","type":"text"},{"_id":"SPS6K7V4AZG3XOHQUPGNSUQZMU","additional_properties":{"_id":1739978396472},"content":"‘Great places to eat at moderate prices in Ireland’: Michelin’s Bib Gourmand restaurants 2025","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"RQHFULIWQJD4TKMV3ALE6BBCMU","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141054},"content":"Hana isn’t quite in full flow the night I visit, but there’s plenty to like. The menu covers a lot of ground, and a final scan suggests a smarter approach next time: dodge the grill unless they’ve got the fire properly roaring. The chicken doesn’t justify its place, so skip it in favour of smaller dishes – fried avocado and soft-shell crab – and go in again on the tempura. It’s a fun, friendly spot with plenty to graze on – a solid addition to the city. It will do well.","type":"text"},{"_id":"MWLQA5AMGVCJVAP7J3LJVINATA","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141055},"content":"Dinner for two with a bottle of sake was €93.75.","type":"text"},{"_id":"2X7NYY7XARFN3BAD7OTTGRL65Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141056},"content":"<b>The verdict: </b>A fun, friendly spot for grazing.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ADQS4JI7GRDSHMNVYZLVZBFXOI","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141057},"content":"<b>Food provenance:</b> Glenmar seafood, Doyles Meat, chicken from Poland (not free range); and pork (not free range).","type":"text"},{"_id":"FS4SDQ72IJE2BBWBFWPPKMEIVQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141058},"content":"<b>Vegetarian options:</b> Many options, including avocado dragon roll, grilled mushroom skewers, tempura and tofu katsu curry.","type":"text"},{"_id":"6ZXJXDGEMBGQJOFBI44K5XBMXQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141059},"content":"<b>Wheelchair access:</b> Fully accessible with an accessible toilet.","type":"text"},{"_id":"VOLF4IOBABCD5AJDCBD572NWOI","additional_properties":{"_id":1739945141060},"content":"<b>Music:</b> Vindu and Japanese lo-fi.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Corinna Hardgrave"}},"name":"Corinna Hardgrave"}]},"description":{"basic":"    "},"display_date":"2025-02-20T05:57:56.365Z","headlines":{"basic":"Hana Izakaya review: This fun and friendly Dublin restaurant is a solid addition to the city. 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"},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"XDJ7XG7B5RBPVJD7JD4HYLQ7U4","auth":{"1":"cb3b399b68971118954092414b450278801637e20f638db22b38b5d9ed2ffd47"},"focal_point":{"x":941,"y":522},"url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/XDJ7XG7B5RBPVJD7JD4HYLQ7U4.jpg"}},"website_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/08/mayo-women-winemakers-everything-in-life-is-harder-as-a-woman-you-always-have-to-prove-yourself-a-bit-more/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/drink","name":"Drink"}}}}]},"expires":1742524158188,"lastModified":1742523858037},"{\"feedOffset\":0,\"feedSize\":5,\"includeSections\":\"/food/drink\"}":{"data":{"content_elements":[{"_id":"4F5APOAZGZDOPB3HP3QUGWOPXE","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":183,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/5469/podcasts/1dd19b71-df8b-488e-9877-ee89cdbc22fe/versions/1741103153/media/9952f6e371ba44e589fdf97868aa46b1_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/15/john-wilson-theres-more-to-new-zealand-wine-than-marlborough-sauvignon/","content_elements":[{"_id":"FYXCMFOHXBGQ3HC4II2IDDWPZE","additional_properties":{"_id":1649760379023},"content":"We have an ongoing love affair with Marlborough sauvignon in this country. Those lifted aromas, bright fresh fruit and zingy lime acidity are a winning combination that draws us back time after time. It has been 50 years since the first grapevines were planted in Marlborough, and the region has expanded hugely in that period. So what is it that makes this wine so special?","type":"text"},{"_id":"27J5PLRYOZELFNQDWQRFYKK25E","additional_properties":{},"content":"As every visitor is warned, New Zealand has high levels of ultraviolet radiation from the sun that requires the application of sun block on a regular basis. This UV light allows grapes to ripen at lower temperatures, thereby retaining acidity, while the constant wind (“our secret weapon”, one winemaker told me) keeps temperatures down. In addition, the cool night-time temperatures and warm days allow the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly. Marlborough, named “Kei puta te Wairau” or “the place with the hole in the cloud” by the Māori has even less cloud cover and more sunshine than other parts of the country. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"MXHKEVRWKRAK3F7K3WKATJMB6U","additional_properties":{},"content":"However, similar conditions can also be found in other parts of New Zealand and with other grape varieties too. Waipara and Nelson, both a short drive from Marlborough, produce some great white wines, including sauvignon. But New Zealand grows a range of other white grapes (as well as some reds) including Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris and even Albariño. All of these share the same lively acidity and succulent ripe fruit that make them a great food-friendly alternative to sauvignon blanc. One of each grape variety is featured below.","type":"text"},{"_id":"BJ5CRX4GKVACVPOJPQ47IBVXCE","additional_properties":{},"type":"image"},{"_id":"XFEE5QNJWBFQ7MFVMWGXW5LXXA","additional_properties":{},"content":"Deluxe Pinot Gris 2022, Gisborne, New Zealand","type":"header"},{"_id":"ZIXBXXHV5JAHZH3QDTLXJNGBYU","additional_properties":{},"content":"13%, €9.79","type":"header"},{"_id":"UFWESJIF65CSRMNIZQVLUAU5XE","additional_properties":{},"content":"Lightly honeyed with succulent textured nectarines, orchard fruits and vibrant acidity. This would go nicely with Asian prawn dishes. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"N7AKWOKGF5DDJHALGE7KZCJKN4","additional_properties":{},"content":"<i>From Lidl</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"A4TB5ONKJBAIDBP52DNDAUOM2I","additional_properties":{},"type":"image"},{"_id":"PA2WRHSMLRAFBBD4PEROFUH7FA","additional_properties":{},"content":"Lawson’s Dry Hills Riesling 2019, Marlborough, New Zealand","type":"header"},{"_id":"LGMGH7YPWBCWJDDDZ6DBSIDQNI","additional_properties":{},"content":"11.5%, €23","type":"header"},{"_id":"4Q24ZLQQ4REHHLVFZFZ4IGKFBE","additional_properties":{},"content":"Enticing aromas, with crisp red and green apple fruits, lively citrus acidity, a honeyed touch and a lip-smacking dry finish. This would be great with most seafood, creamy cheeses and summery salads.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PBWBBKOFBRCSVGQPHFXCP4E4B4","additional_properties":{},"content":"<i>From wineonline.ie; 64wine, Glasthule and Mount Merrion</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"6VV456V5YNHCLMOY7RCET64RXI","additional_properties":{},"type":"image"},{"_id":"NWROKD3T6BHCFMYFWUMOPQ34ZQ","additional_properties":{},"content":"Albariño 2023, Forrest Estate, Marlborough","type":"header"},{"_id":"YZU6FKT53RF4RMZ4Q3IT45T44Y","additional_properties":{},"content":"12.5%, €23","type":"header"},{"_id":"OTHU2RW2K5EPBFGZPBKKT7276Q","additional_properties":{},"content":"Zesty, snappy green apple and peach with mandarin peel. This would make a very stylish aperitif or a great partner for shellfish. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"WQB5ANFNQRDLTD3V3VX5ZRI6HE","additional_properties":{},"content":"<i>From JNWine.com; Blackrock Cellars; Swans on the Green, Naas; The Old Barracks, Birdhill; K Cellars, Magherafelt, Co Derry; The Vintage Wine Merchant, Antrim</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"JWR2MBNNHJFRHBDEESRNNQB5HE","additional_properties":{},"type":"image"},{"_id":"QCGIEKTS25CH5BPEG27PX34F2Y","additional_properties":{},"content":"Tiritiri Chardonnay 2019 Neudorf, Nelson","type":"header"},{"_id":"ZC6P52EKUZEM3J6KO7D7G4OTY4","additional_properties":{},"content":"13.5%, €29","type":"header"},{"_id":"VHPBGCSMXNEAJPJ6CX5AWIRZUE","additional_properties":{},"content":"A delightful refreshing chardonnay with smooth peach fruits with subtle toasted nuts and a crisp dry finish. Try it with baked salmon or creamy chicken dishes.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HRE2HGFXWRGF5BBUXDTSZSRYRA","additional_properties":{},"content":"<i>From JNwine.com; The Wicklow Wine Co</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"YNYRUPESLJBOXF32EQ2JJNEYFE","additional_properties":{},"content":"","type":"text"},{"_id":"5WWNZKMZQRBMHHFABTYZWYKLUY","additional_properties":{},"content":"","type":"text"},{"_id":"6BXWONI37ZGU5BXPUY6QDM5TL4","additional_properties":{},"content":"","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"John Wilson"}},"name":"John Wilson"}]},"description":{"basic":"Climate conditions allow for great chardonnay, riesling and even albariño from other regions too"},"display_date":"2025-03-15T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"There’s more to New Zealand wine than Marlborough sauvignon","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"5469"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"QEYPGVSABFATDDG6JIBK6GQG2A","auth":{"1":"1a6ce52398e1e7ac3374745d5e2df0290ecf225cbf166fd867caf8a0236e6971"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/QEYPGVSABFATDDG6JIBK6GQG2A.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Drink"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/15/john-wilson-theres-more-to-new-zealand-wine-than-marlborough-sauvignon/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/drink","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Drink"}}}},{"_id":"OMN4XOOKAFCBXEHAFROTAB62VM","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":120,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/5469/podcasts/2d877b71-1d6a-4a1a-8e50-6190fc987173/versions/1741263691/media/dfb76783c117c4bea0bd1dc13b3b0c9f_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/14/how-many-types-of-wine-glass-do-i-need/","content_elements":[{"_id":"5RS7CQBX2NHQNLIMQOW2CCXRNU","additional_properties":{"_id":1660732290123},"content":"Every wine shop, supermarket and department store offers a range of glasses of varying shapes and sizes. The Austrian glass firm Riedel has made a fortune selling a specific glass for every wine or spirit. The argument is that an aromatic wine such as pinot noir smells and tastes a lot better in one glass, whereas a cabernet sauvignon is best drunk from another. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"6YKG4HBOWNBBZCYWE667RCCSJY","additional_properties":{},"content":"This may be true but there are times when life is too short, and for most of us storage space is at a premium. I have been the recipient of large, expensive glasses over the years. I use them very occasionally as they are very fragile and don’t fit in a dishwasher. Because I am clumsy, accidents are frequent. Instead I have two glass options that I have used for years. I use the fairly robust Riedel Vinum Riesling Zinfandel (about €20 per stem) for posh events or when I am serving very good wines. Otherwise (and this will probably upset the glass anoraks) for everyday use I use Riedel O Series Riesling/Sauvignon glasses (about €12 each). These are stemless, so I am less likely to break them, and they fit neatly into the dishwasher. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"IQLSFHU2TVBY7P4RWCHNC4HD6E","additional_properties":{},"content":"It is traditional to have smaller glasses for white wines and larger for red but there is no real reason for this, other than aesthetics. If you cannot rise to the Riedel glasses, Schott Zweisel are a good, less expensive option. Both of these two brands are available from good wine shops. Alternatively, Dunnes Stores, Ikea, Marks & Spencer and many others have very good, inexpensive glasses. What you need is a reasonably sized tulip-shaped glass – one that tapers towards the rim. This releases the aromas and funnels them towards your nose. A long stem looks elegant and may stop your hand warming the wine. This glass will do for all wines, including sparkling wines, which these days are served in normal wine glasses. ","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"John Wilson"}},"name":"John Wilson"}]},"description":{"basic":"How to Drink Better: There is no real reason, other than aesthetics, to have smaller glasses for white wines and larger for red "},"display_date":"2025-03-14T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"How many types of wine glass do I need?","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"5469"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"QE6QDGOOZBCPVK27B43XOLVY4U","auth":{"1":"e356e511a5dbc78f4b0eb2e5c68896e771971359a48a9f52f3ba27b8d4858017"},"focal_point":{"x":931,"y":514},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/QE6QDGOOZBCPVK27B43XOLVY4U.jpg"}},"subtype":"opinion","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Drink"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/14/how-many-types-of-wine-glass-do-i-need/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/drink","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Drink"}}}},{"_id":"U4EV5FGBQBHQ7GIRFQFXTJGEDA","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":93,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/5469/podcasts/9b8e99cf-598b-484c-a8f3-e23a3b0464ac/versions/1741790544/media/ea8376e2a9d1fdd17987f4b427665802_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/14/john-wilson-two-modern-classics-that-irish-consumers-love/","content_elements":[{"_id":"UYEZJX47RVHGDAIKAL2IHJQSZM","additional_properties":{"_id":1651422838740},"content":"Two modern classics this week, <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/wine/\" target=\"_self\">wines</a> that have become firm favourites with Irish consumers over the last decade or so.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JMAQZQXNINBDBD5R3GEJHON3GI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741878640572},"content":"Marlborough sauvignon will be familiar to many. The Marlborough region of <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/new-zealand/\" target=\"_self\">New Zealand</a> has a unique climate that allows grapes to ripen perfectly, enjoying a long, slow maturation period that preserves acidity. The flavours are unmistakable; lifted, powerful aromas and racy, succulent fruit.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ZYQM5IQGK5H3JL4Q6JSPCV2S5I","additional_properties":{"_id":1741878640573},"content":"Malbec originates in south-west France but has been widely grown in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/argentina/\" target=\"_self\">Argentina</a> for over a century where it is the most popular grape variety. While most of the wines can be full-bodied and powerful, the Uco Valley is a sub-region noted for producing wines with an elegance and freshness.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HIAOZPGJFNCYTBGOQF7UAYI2CU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741878640574},"content":"Both wines are part of the deluxe range from <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/lidl/\" target=\"_self\">Lidl</a>.","type":"text"},{"_id":"VFUYQM3I35FI5MHYZIPAC4EPYE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741878640575},"type":"image"},{"_id":"KBAJNUIQFRFRTJGPK3LCZECJUE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741878640576},"content":"Deluxe Sauvignon Blanc 2023","type":"header"},{"_id":"H3O5MDFCQNGNJLLMKRSEZQSM7E","additional_properties":{"_id":1741878640577},"content":"13% abv, €11.49 from Lidl","type":"header"},{"_id":"W27TCHGVSJDT7C7LIT7RXXCHRA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741878640578},"content":"Pungent floral and herbal aromas, refreshing gooseberry, citrus and peach fruits with zingy acidity. A good sipping wine that would make a great partner for herby Asian chicken and fish dishes.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KTUYKH457VBSBGKTYSKOOIZL4A","additional_properties":{"_id":1741878640579},"type":"image"},{"_id":"XE5YMXFTZBELJCHCVKOBGEAW74","additional_properties":{"_id":1741878640580},"content":"Deluxe Malbec 2023","type":"header"},{"_id":"PW6VVE65ZFBWLJL5E7XGNHA64U","additional_properties":{"_id":1741878640581},"content":"13.5% abv, €8.99 from Lidl","type":"header"},{"_id":"Y7WSAYQJWVCGDIF7CFZS2KKPZQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741878640582},"content":"Vibrant, juicy, dark cherry and plum fruits, with peppery spice and light tannins on the finish. The local favourite would be grilled steak, but this would go nicely with any red meat or rich vegetable dish.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"John Wilson"}},"name":"John Wilson"}]},"description":{"basic":"Wines for the Weekend: Both the Marlborough sauvignon from New Zealand and Argentinian malbec are part of Lidl’s deluxe range"},"display_date":"2025-03-14T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"John Wilson: Two modern classics that Irish consumers love","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"5469"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"BIJBGZFSIJHVRJZO5J7BTGAMU4","auth":{"1":"76992b087ade0b1e0ac97ddd96a604d894dc8ff12d76c0a25e7a139ddca50719"},"focal_point":{"x":1285,"y":662},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/BIJBGZFSIJHVRJZO5J7BTGAMU4.jpg"}},"subtype":"opinion","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Drink"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/14/john-wilson-two-modern-classics-that-irish-consumers-love/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/drink","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Drink"}}}},{"_id":"67XZPPBVW5CLFFVJY3VMY7736E","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":137,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/5469/podcasts/27b64c7c-a62b-4a37-a4fe-6680096d3c59/versions/1740486731/media/70c6587cdc97034fe72069cb4086ad65_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/09/what-is-the-best-way-to-store-wine-in-the-absence-of-a-cellar-2/","content_elements":[{"_id":"U67EX7QFQFEGHB2USIJ4SG7KKU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104390469},"content":"A <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/wine/\" target=\"_blank\">wine</a> cellar sounds very grand, conjuring up images of <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/culture/film/downton-abbey-a-new-era-review-both-aristocrats-and-servants-sound-too-middle-class-1.4862362\" target=\"_blank\">Downton Abbey</a> and other great houses, where the butler oversees hundreds of bottles of cobweb-covered wine in a large underground vault, all meticulously recorded in ledgers.","type":"text"},{"_id":"X6IIXXZXZBFE7PSQAVJC7A35VE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104390470},"content":"A wine cellar is really just somebody’s collection of wines, which can mean anything from hundreds of bottles if they are an avid wine drinker, or a box in the corner of your garage containing a few bottles of wine for the next weekend.","type":"text"},{"_id":"XDQFP6QV7RHBNDXTS5Y34IAKWY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104390471},"content":"The vast majority of wine is ready <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/how-to-drink-better/\" target=\"_blank\">to drink</a> the day you buy it. Most won’t taste any better (or worse) if you keep it for a few weeks. Any longer and you really need to have an appropriate storage place. Ideally you need somewhere cool, dark and moist where the temperature won’t fluctuate too much. Not many modern houses and flats have such a space, so if you do intend building up a serious collection it might be worth investing in an air-conditioned wine cabinet, but these cost thousands of euro.","type":"text"},{"_id":"6TF4TBRMOFAM7BB7224TNJ6LIM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104390472},"content":"Why might you need a cellar? If you buy wine bottle by bottle as you need it, then you probably don’t. But a small stash might save you a mad last-minute dash to the wine shop before dinner. It means you can have your favourite wines to hand whenever you need them, if friends drop around unexpectedly or you feel like spoiling yourself on a Friday night.","type":"text"},{"_id":"FAQPTJ3H45BRDABWW3STH5S3SY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104390473},"content":"But mostly cellars are for wine lovers. As an inveterate collector who cannot stop buying bottles of wine, I understand. I love to buy special hard-to-find bottles from the best vintages. I love to look at them slowly maturing. Leaving aside what I said earlier, some inexpensive wines will improve.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5EWALKE52NCDTAUSFVEUTTO2CI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104390474},"content":"When in doubt should I order the second-cheapest wine on the wine list?","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"42RCHQVYK5B7FF6ZMM243RXRD4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104390475},"content":"I recently tried a bottle on Aldi’s Monsigny Champagne (€22.99) that I had kept for a year. It was fantastic, better than a bottle directly from the supermarket. But I have to admit that I keep many of my wines far too long, waiting for the perfect moment that never happens, and they have been past their best when I finally do uncork them.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OY4E7YQY6NCXHE4IRLJCPESR7I","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104390476},"content":"Most of the time I drink current vintages of wines bought from local wine shops, so I probably really only need one box or at most two of wine at any time. But that wouldn’t be as much fun so I will continue buying and make an effort to start drinking my old bottles.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"John Wilson"}},"name":"John Wilson"}]},"description":{"basic":"How to Drink Better: The vast majority of wine is ready to drink the day you buy it"},"display_date":"2025-03-09T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"What is the best way to store wine in the absence of a ‘cellar’?","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"5469"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"T2QUFLVMD5BWZIXUUK76HR5PLY","auth":{"1":"b2f3a58616acb7f58f7a1b56daeeb0088ba78e7c8c9be68ebc44d62dfa4348f5"},"focal_point":{"x":1400,"y":935},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/T2QUFLVMD5BWZIXUUK76HR5PLY.jpg"}},"subtype":"opinion","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Drink"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/09/what-is-the-best-way-to-store-wine-in-the-absence-of-a-cellar-2/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/drink","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Drink"}}}},{"_id":"WDDU3NRBFZENHMS7XFU7TZGVW4","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":330,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/5469/podcasts/1505313d-5a81-4c16-a68f-a963c9619d66/versions/1740399846/media/b6d8bcaf3560c26ff7345eff93786cf0_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/drink/2025/03/08/mayo-women-winemakers-everything-in-life-is-harder-as-a-woman-you-always-have-to-prove-yourself-a-bit-more/","content_elements":[{"_id":"6HZ3HWCIEBGIXEJHP6QXXVL5SU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777852},"content":"From <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/mayo/\" target=\"_blank\">Ballyhaunis</a>, Roisín Curley celebrates 10 years making wine in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/wine/\" target=\"_blank\">Burgundy</a> this year. She still works part-time as a pharmacist in the family business.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QGDGITKP7JBMNBEWMTMMEOB6UA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777853},"content":"“I have one foot in Burgundy and one in Ballyhaunis” she says. “I love both. I spend August to November in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/france/\" target=\"_blank\">France</a> and visit every month too.” In 2023 she made 14 different wines. “I am a workaholic and I love it.” She says she also has “a spinal cord of loyal close family and friends who help make it happen”.","type":"text"},{"_id":"XFPQUVHEEZE7LIN3GURRRMMPRY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777854},"content":"Did she find it difficult as a woman and foreigner to be accepted in Burgundy, a very traditional winemaking region? “I thought it would be a challenge, but everyone has been so nice and so helpful. Being a woman, it is harder. But everything in life is harder as a woman; you always have to prove yourself a little bit more.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"STJWWLMK2BBL5PDR2ZMUSPXKWM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777856},"content":"Formerly a sommelier in top restaurants straddling three continents, during lockdown Brigid O’Hora moved from Dublin to Achill Island with her young triplets where she began her hugely successful <a href=\"https://www.instagram.com/brideys_wine_chats/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\">Bridey’s Wine Chats</a> profile on Instagram. Last year her book The Home Sommelier was published.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PEWZHCOZWZAQHL56TXLTJAVX5Y","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777855},"type":"image"},{"_id":"WN3CXQB7KNDEXENHZHGJAKOGBQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777856},"content":"“Our family home is in Achill, so I have been going down there since I was a child. To be honest, I tired of the rat race. We were originally here for six months to save for a house but after three months something in me said ‘no, I’m staying here'.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"YXRAFV74TZBTPPV5555COKR7RI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777858},"content":"“I fell pregnant and that’s when I started online. I now work with an importer but I’m still doing my own stuff promoting the book and doing Instagram. It keeps me in touch with everyday people, which is what I love.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"KHGTN4JZRRDOXGWZBKU7FCCMGA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777859},"content":"Originally from Co Down, Sinéad Cabot moved to Westport 20 years ago. Since then, with her husband Liam, she has been running a firm of wine importers in Mayo, while growing grapes and making critically acclaimed wine in Slovenia.","type":"text"},{"_id":"EQ3RA43B5NESJG6Z5ICKNBJ42Y","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777860},"type":"image"},{"_id":"CIEKGLCQNFAPJJG3N3NCN5XFNU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777861},"content":"“I’ve worked in wine for 25 years: from retailing to importing to winemaking in Slovenia. I can start the day wearing wellies in the vineyard and end it by wearing high heels at an event presenting our wines. It’s a great life. As well as a certain amount of physicality, winemaking calls for intuition, multitasking and a holistic approach – things we women have in spades.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"Z7UFQJVD3VC7NF6KDBBZ6B5DII","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777862},"type":"image"},{"_id":"UHF7SZFFHVHG7DGJLGY23SGA3A","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777863},"content":"Like many people, Maureen O’Hara didn’t set out to pursue a career in wine. “The closest connection Killala has with wine is that French ships landed there in 1798. At the last minute, I chose a business degree rather than home economics teacher training. I think part of me wanted to see the bright lights of Dublin.","type":"text"},{"_id":"MMJQWE5GLNCSDADKSOX2QVJFSI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777864},"content":"‘She has an amazing nose’: Ireland’s female sommeliers on the changing industry","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"G4R5HINJ5NAHTODRLN2PRPNM5Y","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777865},"content":"“I was a marketing manager for many years. Wine courses gave me confidence dealing with customers and suppliers. In 2010, I set up Premier Wine Training. One aspect I really enjoy is food and wine pairing. My initial love of food and teaching has come together.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HHPWVZTQLFFY5HLRKHM4GTE4QM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777866},"content":"“I love the fact that wine education empowers people to do their job well. Students have gone on to run wineries, write wine articles, and everything in between. When I set up Premier Wine Training, some were sceptical that I could earn a living from it. Wine education is stronger now than ever. I could do more but would need a suitable partner.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"QKSIDGL7H5EVNMIRAPP2EBO35A","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777867},"type":"image"},{"_id":"LJYYU5UOXVACLCV3GQJ3UP5TKQ","additional_properties":{},"content":"Roka Furmint 2022, Kog, Slovenia, Organic","type":"header"},{"_id":"KOGHB2S37NH7BB3TU6UC2UFZVQ","additional_properties":{},"content":"12%, €32","type":"header"},{"_id":"3SO6TII74RCR5A6H6KKIM5UW6A","additional_properties":{"_id":1741103777870},"content":"Sinéad Cabot: “A wine that both energises and soothes. 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If you don’t want it too spicy, leave out the chilli seeds or just add less.","type":"text"},{"_id":"V2YCGEH7W5DA5NEUZ5PFP6LFE4","additional_properties":{},"content":" Making your own harissa is a great way to use home-grown produce like chillies, peppers, garlic and herbs. You can even add dried rose petals for a beautifully floral and fragrant hot sauce.","type":"text"},{"_id":"XBAVTFF3GZFHJEPBEJ6WFPN3NE","additional_properties":{"_id":1721212451452},"content":"Recipe: <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2024/07/22/lamb-steaks-with-harissa-glazed-chickpeas/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Lamb steaks with harissa-glazed chickpeas</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"F3ZAROQSLVAINI4G22SC74TXRE","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533525214},"content":"Lilly’s Kitchen Tips:","type":"header"},{"_id":"TIBORQH525AGJH2Y5HXH4I3WZU","additional_properties":{},"type":"list"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Lilly Higgins"}},"name":"Lilly Higgins"}]},"description":{"basic":"Harissa is a simple-to-make hero sauce that works brilliantly with vegetables and meat dishes"},"display_date":"2024-07-22T04:01:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Harissa-glazed chickpeas make the perfect base for juicy barbecued lamb","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"IDKYEBF2MBE6POJBGHCFBHUAPQ","auth":{"1":"41bc7b2e027b8fc52aee16b6cc7c91e8d7a5763adb44bdb4585757f0e118012e"},"focal_point":{"x":1237,"y":1440},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/IDKYEBF2MBE6POJBGHCFBHUAPQ.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2024/07/22/harissa-glazed-chickpeas-make-the-perfect-base-for-juicy-barbecued-lamb/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"PYEOSYNBPFF45OONWFN3ZDZQE4","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":58,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/d6db8db2-7512-456a-9cc6-4a434f661ad8/versions/1720707823/media/1161bcf52fc0c1042c724483f84db35e_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/recipes/2024/07/22/lamb-steaks-with-harissa-glazed-chickpeas/","content_elements":[{"_id":"M5OX67CHDBG27NMGT4X7CU65SU","additional_properties":{"_id":"QLPDJ5W4R5G35AHLIRBNHLVTUU"},"embed":{"config":{},"id":"recipe-highlights-37646","url":"/"},"subtype":"recipe-highlights-powerup","type":"custom_embed"},{"_id":"VA6EA4KXUBCLFK2ZU3NBCRKQKI","additional_properties":{"_id":1720437269702},"content":"Marinade the lamb steaks in the lemon zest, juice, olive oil and salt. Set aside.","type":"text"},{"_id":"2JVLJC23S5G4RLY7MPYEUDV36M","additional_properties":{"_id":1720437269703},"content":"Mix the harissa, garlic, salt, honey, paprika and olive oil together until smooth. Fold in the chickpeas gently ensuring they’re well covered in the spicy mix.","type":"text"},{"_id":"NBFWV322MVBF5KRHHVETQPCATA","additional_properties":{"_id":1720437269704},"content":"Place a wide frying pan over a medium heat. Add the harissa chickpeas. Cook for 8-10 minutes stirring frequently so they don’t stick or burn. Once they are heated thoroughly add the lemon juice and finely chopped parsley. Stir gently and set aside.","type":"text"},{"_id":"IC46GFWMHZAYVBUXSZNKK6PBMY","additional_properties":{"_id":1720437269705},"content":"Preheat the BBQ or grill pan. Cook the lamb steaks for 3-4 minutes each side depending on thickness. Leave to rest for five minutes before slicing. Serve on top of the glazed chickpeas and sprinkle with more parsley before serving.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Lilly Higgins"}},"name":"Lilly Higgins"}]},"description":{"basic":"Juicy meat pairs with spicy chickpeas for a protein-packed meal"},"display_date":"2024-07-22T03:45:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Lamb steaks with harissa-glazed chickpeas","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"IDKYEBF2MBE6POJBGHCFBHUAPQ","auth":{"1":"41bc7b2e027b8fc52aee16b6cc7c91e8d7a5763adb44bdb4585757f0e118012e"},"focal_point":{"x":1120,"y":1610},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/IDKYEBF2MBE6POJBGHCFBHUAPQ.jpg"}},"subtype":"recipe","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Recipes"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/recipes/2024/07/22/lamb-steaks-with-harissa-glazed-chickpeas/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/recipes","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Recipes"}}}},{"_id":"CULJBCGFUBFFJE4F332V6V72DE","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":166,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/515ddfe3-0e95-4e3e-a818-dadc7677a5f9/versions/1719993423/media/22e97f2043018489aa09db1325ddebe2_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2024/07/15/lilly-higgins-tonnato-summer-salad/","content_elements":[{"_id":"2CTBSD6POFGZZHSECT7VYHHR34","additional_properties":{"_id":1719934622468},"content":"Tonnato is a creamy tuna mayonnaise made with anchovies, capers and lemon juice. It hails from northern Italy and is the perfect sauce for summer. Serve a bowl of creamy tonnato with grilled broccoli spears hot off the barbecue or use it instead of regular mayonnaise for a potato salad. The tonnato sauce is equally good drizzled over a platter of sliced summer tomatoes and scattered with a few extra caper berries.","type":"text"},{"_id":"T3XKQSZGFJGMLCY7RAG4AYQBVY","additional_properties":{"_id":1719934622469},"content":"The sharp, bright, salty flavours from the sauce work surprisingly well with meat, and traditionally tonnato is served with thinly sliced veal for the dish vitello tonnato. I love it best served with a big bowl of finely shredded salad leaves and soft-boiled eggs. It’s got all the flavours of a Niçoise salad scattered with plump olives. Another option is to pop cherry tomatoes in the air fryer for a few minutes instead of serving them raw. A little heat condenses their flavour, charring them in spots and making them jammy and delicious. Often this sauce is made from scratch with egg yolks and olive oil, but I like to use a nice mayonnaise. A good-quality olive oil-based version is best. The sharpness of the lemon juice and Dijon mustard cuts through the oil and anchovies.","type":"text"},{"_id":"G34SBN4DOVFZ3BBCJV2E6UOGAA","additional_properties":{"_id":1719934622470},"content":"All this salad needs is a few slices of buttered sourdough toast to pile those incredible tomatoes and punchy tonnato sauce on. Make this a heartier meal by folding some butter beans through the salad leaves or some cooked rigatoni pasta. The traditional Niçoise salad has baby potatoes, and this is amazing served with boiled new potatoes too.","type":"text"},{"_id":"47LB4BZNAJBHPJ2YC2LEAMMURU","additional_properties":{"_id":1719934622471},"content":"This is a wonderful way to stretch a good-quality tuna to feed a crowd. There are plenty of brands I love to use, such as Ortiz, or Irish tuna such as Shine’s Wild Irish Tuna in olive oil. Shine’s tuna is delicious straight from the jar or in a tuna melt. This tonnato sauce is a great way to make a little go a long way.","type":"text"},{"_id":"2FTW3NVDXVF3TMG7CA5CCRXEVA","additional_properties":{"_id":1720616030723},"content":"<b>Recipe: </b><a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2024/07/15/lilly-higgins-tonnato-summer-salad/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Tonnato summer salad</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"K73TXQSBFJBKFEHCGKYYOJRPQE","additional_properties":{"_id":1719934622472},"content":"Lilly’s kitchen tips","type":"header"},{"_id":"PNOKERPXLFCJFLM7RFNRM66J74","additional_properties":{},"type":"list"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Lilly Higgins"}},"name":"Lilly Higgins"}]},"description":{"basic":"Tuna mayonnaise will bring your summer salads to new heights"},"display_date":"2024-07-15T04:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"An Italian summer salad with sharp, bright, salty flavours","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"KT3IA4QN25C2HBDZ5REICIGQHM","auth":{"1":"dd214651b8cf753b759c84c77c8dab38bca4fcdf8d40ecbe3c4fd9058fab8943"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/KT3IA4QN25C2HBDZ5REICIGQHM.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2024/07/15/lilly-higgins-tonnato-summer-salad/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"F42ISJI6BJAORLRJY3VHJUZTOY","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":55,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/765e9765-a4c7-480a-ac6b-d700fd156139/versions/1719993129/media/e7aaaa69bb293f1fb78c4ac9f4ac5d7a_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/recipes/2024/07/15/lilly-higgins-tonnato-summer-salad/","content_elements":[{"_id":"XUZEOGOJFJAHNMQPUDAJK7NEDI","additional_properties":{"_id":"QIYLXKNYJ5FSZG4JVQTWR3SADA"},"embed":{"config":{},"id":"recipe-highlights-71058","url":"/"},"subtype":"recipe-highlights-powerup","type":"custom_embed"},{"_id":"TMDHRNGTG5D3ZAXUDOMJOGCYQI","additional_properties":{"_id":1719935647986},"type":"list"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Lilly Higgins"}},"name":"Lilly Higgins"}]},"description":{"basic":"This simple sauce makes the most of good-quality tuna"},"display_date":"2024-07-15T03:55:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Tonnato summer salad","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"KT3IA4QN25C2HBDZ5REICIGQHM","auth":{"1":"dd214651b8cf753b759c84c77c8dab38bca4fcdf8d40ecbe3c4fd9058fab8943"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/KT3IA4QN25C2HBDZ5REICIGQHM.jpg"}},"subtype":"recipe","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Recipes"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/recipes/2024/07/15/lilly-higgins-tonnato-summer-salad/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/recipes","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Recipes"}}}},{"_id":"HQRKNRVAIRH3ZAVPX3G72GBOQU","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":167,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/465b2d42-c198-435a-9a75-5fca31a9262a/versions/1719408449/media/49f514d10aafeb667703cb3a93f27f93_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2024/07/08/the-swedish-sandwich-cake-perfect-for-a-celebration-picnic/","content_elements":[{"_id":"PZ5Z3M4OUFD2NPXS7HLDV4LGLE","additional_properties":{"_id":1719395943688},"content":"This gorgeous summery Smörgåstårta recipe is perfect for a celebration picnic. It’s a traditional treat popular in Sweden, Iceland and Estonia. It looks very much like a kitsch 1970s cake but is made from layers of sandwiches. It’s ideal for when you’re looking for something celebratory but savoury. My kids love these.","type":"text"},{"_id":"VQWWGQS75NEBROPD5ITM5WC3PI","additional_properties":{},"content":" You can add any filling you like. My favourite is smoked salmon and cream cheese with radish, cress and cucumber. I always pack plenty of vegetables in for a balanced healthy lunch. I like to make these in a long, rectangular loaf tin. You could also use a lunchbox or any foodsafe container. They look beautiful when made in a round springform tin, but it makes it more difficult to cut into slices, and it can be impractical.","type":"text"},{"_id":"RGZR2NAISZFEPL22RI5SGVUHK4","additional_properties":{"_id":"5BYMAU4PZFGWJGNMSBDOCD6LDI"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"GB6QOYSD7NB7PJ5XWZQXLEFBVU","additional_properties":{"_id":1719395943689},"content":"These huge rectangles are usually served at parties, the tops adorned with bright pink prawns and curled-up roses of salmon, pops of cherry tomatoes and frilly cress. A very typical filling is liver pâté, ham and cheese. Often seafood and meat are mixed, and the decorative garnishes on top reflect the filling. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"HLRDZJ6WLNAOJHU2YYEBSTRKSY","additional_properties":{},"content":"I like the smoked salmon version better. I also made an egg salad version once and it worked a treat.","type":"text"},{"_id":"C2ZHLAEFMZBFVN5W5HVLCZONZA","additional_properties":{"_id":1719395943690},"content":"A white sliced batch loaf works best for this, or a light sourdough or rye. You want bread with a little body so avoid the gummy grey sliced pans and opt for something a little more robust. This cake is like building a lasagne, with layers of bread and filling, finishing with a slice of bread on top to seal it all securely. The “cake” is then left to set in the fridge before turning out and covering with more cream cheese just before serving. ","type":"text"},{"_id":"BRWB4VINQVACDMAIYXMU6OA2FU","additional_properties":{},"content":"Edible flowers are very handy to have in the garden for decoration and flavour. Nasturtiums grow very easily, and the peppery petals are pretty and delicious in salads and on cakes such as this.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QEJGTE246FBIPKVJNJIPBMLZVM","additional_properties":{"_id":1719907707863},"content":"<b>Recipe: </b><a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2024/07/08/lilly-higgins-smorgastarta-recipe/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Smörgåstårta</b></a>","type":"text"},{"_id":"6CRP3OVFEBHXTOKN45ZMPHVAH4","additional_properties":{"_id":1719395943691},"content":"Lilly’s kitchen tips","type":"header"},{"_id":"N5LI36YQ4JBK5BRGKVBLKPNRL4","additional_properties":{},"type":"list"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Lilly Higgins"}},"name":"Lilly Higgins"}]},"description":{"basic":"Lilly Higgins: Smörgåstårta is a popular Swedish savoury cake of layered sandwiches that will brighten any picnic"},"display_date":"2024-07-08T04:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"The Swedish sandwich cake perfect 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But to me it’s the flavour of the land’"},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"IDOIH5CDEJFYNGUGXJCEUX3V6I","auth":{"1":"a1a13292affddb734d82bd48394bc59c921411d44526f0256d840f1b5310cce1"},"focal_point":{"x":3387,"y":1463},"url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/IDOIH5CDEJFYNGUGXJCEUX3V6I.jpg"}},"website_url":"/food/2024/07/30/from-farmer-to-artisan-cheese-maker-raw-milk-was-an-object-of-fear-but-to-me-its-the-flavour-of-the-land/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","name":"Food"}}}}]},"expires":1742524033898,"lastModified":1742523733346},"{\"authorSlug\":\"/russ-parsons\",\"feedOffset\":0,\"feedSize\":5}":{"data":{"content_elements":[{"_id":"ZPL6XIQ7JVA7TOMSIZRUQACNY4","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":330,"audio_url":"https://beyondwords-cdn-b7fyckdeejejb6dj.a03.azurefd.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/75330f30-c2ba-45b0-8102-27e36fda9eee/versions/1739354514/media/a2586c99f581638b368fb21b3b69a847_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2025/03/10/they-see-paddington-eating-it-it-must-be-good-wexford-marmalade-makers-on-ensuring-its-not-just-the-preserve-of-the-old/","content_elements":[{"_id":"IFGYBQTSSZE2REHL45ZYQ3OYLE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818282},"content":"Many people (and at least one small bear) are mad for marmalade. But few will go to the extremes that Tom and Laura Sinnott have.","type":"text"},{"_id":"62BHQR7UTFGGXO6YV2BX4YIPNA","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818283},"content":"Especially at this time of year, there can be few things better than a spoonful of bittersweet, intensely citrusy marmalade on thickly buttered toasted brown bread. It can bring a ray of sunshine to even the scutteriest grey morning.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OU3JEJZCVNEKDMIZ57RTRBSCOE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818284},"content":"At my house we might go through a jar every couple of weeks. The Sinnotts go through 3,000-4,000 a day.","type":"text"},{"_id":"RJICAZ356JGJ3L73L36XTL7MZI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818285},"content":"They own Wexford Home Preserves in New Ross. And though their products range across all sorts of jams, chutneys, preserves and sauces, it’s marmalade that has pride of place, especially during the winter months.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KJOZG3T3NVDETOYNG2C3L23OSI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818286},"content":"On a recent trip to Ardkeen Quality Food Store in Waterford, I found no fewer than a dozen different types of marmalade from them. There were the expected – orange, three-fruit and pink grapefruit. Then there were those flavoured with poitín, Irish whiskey and even one with spiced whiskey. Some more were made from oranges from Seville, and others made with blood oranges, from lemons and from clementines from Sicily.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WSXKBBIPMZCXDOJJB4FRWAQ4PY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818287},"content":"And that’s just a sampling.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OYOOSB3IOZCU3EL3UAJ6WRZ3KI","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818288},"content":"Each is made in small batches as close to the traditional way as possible – the fruit is seeded by hand, the peel shredded and left to soak overnight, The next day it is simmered to soften further before the sugar is added and the cooking is finished. The seeds are collected and cooked to make pectin to set the preserves.","type":"text"},{"_id":"AUUGRWFB6NEUXDCIANU5P6UPYQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818289},"content":"Taking that kind of care has paid off. Last year Wexford Home Preserves’s Seville Orange Marmalade won gold at the World Marmalade Competition held at the Dalemain Mansion in Cumbria, competing against artisan makers from as far away as Japan. The Three-Fruit and Sicilian Orange won silvers, and the basic Orange took bronze.","type":"text"},{"_id":"F2NEE5P4BZGD3GUFIIFTZEIMG4","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818290},"type":"image"},{"_id":"W6CKGC3P5BH6LBHSCGHVUHG5ZU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818291},"content":"Closer to home the producers have a raft of awards from Blas na hÉireann and Great Taste.","type":"text"},{"_id":"J74B6IJBVJC63DFHTNO64UX55Y","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818292},"content":"“There aren’t too many people doing this the way we do, I suppose,” says Tom Sinnott. “Our ethos is shooting for the best at whatever we do. That’s not going to change.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"JD7X4OEHSZGU3GJSF272F55Q5E","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818293},"content":"In fact, not that much in their production method has changed since the business was started back in 1988 by Tom’s aunt Ellen O’Leary. Working on the family farm in Broadway near Rosslare Harbour, she began making jams in her home kitchen from leftover strawberries they grew.","type":"text"},{"_id":"3DNGUPMQWBENRIEK5CYBO53IVE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818294},"content":"These sold so well that she began buying blackcurrants, blackberries and rhubarb from her neighbours and even making regular trips to the produce centre in Dublin to pick up more fruit, including oranges for marmalade. Eventually the business grew to the point that she had to build a commercial kitchen in her garden.","type":"text"},{"_id":"6RHDOO6ZEJDEBDM63KQAMGQATQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818295},"content":"When the economic crash happened in 2008, Tom’s building business suffered and Laura was made redundant from her job in pharmaceuticals, just as Ellen was reaching retirement age.","type":"text"},{"_id":"UWN6IRCTT5FZVHUCY6AHU4PGDE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818296},"content":"The solution was readily apparent. Ellen stayed on for a year to teach the Sinnotts the ropes and make sure they absorbed all the lessons she had learned that made the products so great.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KTYMQELE3VEVDDCWSVX7OOZ2MU","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818297},"content":"Chief among these was selecting the best-quality suppliers for raw materials. Although that was fairly easy to do with most fruits – indeed, most were sourced from within Co Wexford – there isn’t a lot of citrus grown in Ireland.","type":"text"},{"_id":"7M47HVMVHRHFTK6MPFLL3IHNGE","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818298},"content":"“It was a big thing for us that we get our produce locally from small farmers, so we decided, right, why don’t we have the same kinds of farmers for our marmalade?” says Tom.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HAKAXAGEXBDC7LADAMGZFGLA6I","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818299},"content":"The Waterford beekeeper: ‘I got four or five stings on my face today, but you wouldn’t know it’","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"YNFTNTY3EBFSPFQIDMGAEPFX7A","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818300},"content":"After much searching they found Jose Manuel Bautista and his wife, Amadora, at Gaspo Citrus near Seville and Giangiacomo Borghese and his wife, Virginia, at Il Biviere farm in Sicily, both small, family-owned companies.","type":"text"},{"_id":"2TQEBGLMKJETVAONM6ITLPP5GM","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818301},"content":"“They were just what we wanted,” says Tom. “We wanted that connection. We didn’t want fruit from just anywhere. We wanted that lovely connection with family growers. They’re a family business, we’re a family business.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"IESZL4IZM5BXLGFUJZ5FYX62RQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818302},"content":"It has certainly proved a winning combination. When the Sinnotts took over, they were making 800 jars of jam and marmalade a day. Now this has been ramped up to 3,000 to 4,000 jars daily.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DGX3FVCQJJBVLBINGQNSTLZ27E","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818303},"content":"With a full range of more than two dozen products marketed under their own brand, Wexford Home Preserves products are sold all over Ireland by grocers including SuperValu, Tesco and Dunnes. They also make a large range of different products for Dunnes Stores under its Simply Better store label.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PKNRJOXJRBCWXDFJ35MKVNEJMY","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818304},"content":"In the past, marmalade was popular mainly with the older demographic, but Laura says that’s changing now. “Younger people are more willing to try different things,” she says “They travel more, and food is a big thing in everybody’s lives.","type":"text"},{"_id":"EUH3TRBY75H2BPAFTRKHOHO77A","additional_properties":{"_id":1741104818305},"content":"And, of course, there is the Paddington effect. “We run a competition and give away tickets when a new movie comes out,” says Laura. “That gets the really young people. They see Paddington eating it, it must be good.”","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Russ Parsons"}},"name":"Russ Parsons"}]},"description":{"basic":"Wexford Home Preserves produces more than two dozen jams and marmalades, and has increased production from 800 to nearly 4,000 jars a day"},"display_date":"2025-03-10T05:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"‘They see Paddington eating it, it must be good’: Wexford marmalade makers on ensuring it’s not just the preserve of the old","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"EUIN4Z3OCVD4ZNF4J4RH242AMQ","auth":{"1":"a8cf62e2d28d5ed6b713393024a4c4e140ec442c1408d048abd69a17b084923d"},"focal_point":{"x":1965,"y":1336},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/EUIN4Z3OCVD4ZNF4J4RH242AMQ.JPG"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2025/03/10/they-see-paddington-eating-it-it-must-be-good-wexford-marmalade-makers-on-ensuring-its-not-just-the-preserve-of-the-old/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"I7WG4DQI6FFS7GWJUCPLKY7ELM","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":372,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/9de27c0d-9f7a-48fb-8aca-ed02f576922e/versions/1729765057/media/4a235e5c4896bd063e642b993788239c_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2024/11/05/the-waterford-beekeeper-i-got-four-or-five-stings-on-my-face-today-but-you-wouldnt-know-it/","content_elements":[{"_id":"BJEBOLPDUZHD3NYDWYEY4KE424","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459502},"content":"Most artisanal food products are the result of the labours of a few dedicated employees. Conor Trihy numbers his workforce in the tens of thousands.","type":"text"},{"_id":"4TSIJI2JZ5D75DM44HCKXW7GFQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459503},"content":"As the 29-year-old makes the rounds of one of his workplaces on a sunny early fall afternoon, they are all abuzz. Trihy is a beekeeper, and he and his workers make some of the best honey you’ll ever taste.","type":"text"},{"_id":"7U52CFYLNND5XFOJG7LMIWQYUQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459504},"content":"Because of the prevalence of the industrialised product – sometimes little more than sugar water – we have become used to the idea of honey being nothing more than a neutral sweetener.","type":"text"},{"_id":"YU2YVGMZ7VDWHF4SZMIKIT65AE","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459505},"content":"But real honey is a glorious thing, richly flavoured from whatever flowers the bees that produce it were feeding on. True wildflower honey offers intriguing hints from summer clover and budding trees.","type":"text"},{"_id":"Y6LX5MN4YVCRDAC7WMNG4ED7KM","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459506},"content":"There is another step above even that, however. And this is where Trihy’s Comeragh Raw Heather Honey comes in. Really great honeys such as this balance that complex sweetness with a subtly bitter undertone that serves to balance the flavours in the same way that acidity lends structure to wine. Trihy’s wildflower honey, labelled Whitfield Raw Honey, is gorgeous, with a dark, musky floral character. It is only produced in the summer, mainly from clover, blackberry and lime tree flowers.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ZNBP3J6ZWVHPNCKXUDWSCPVMOA","additional_properties":{"_id":"LET3LIXVHRBLBJ4JPJQG56AUZA"},"subtype":"pullquote","type":"quote"},{"_id":"T4R2GT444VE53OISR7BQXKALUE","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459508},"content":"The heather honey is thick and even more intensely flavoured, and can be collected for only about a month every year and sometimes only for a couple of weeks. It makes up only about 10 per cent of Trihy’s total production.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QM3G2SYRJZBXDJOTANYU3OTL7A","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459509},"content":"Naturally, great honey costs more than the industrial product. And there isn’t much of it. The relative scarcity is reflected in the price. Heather honey runs €12.95 for a 230g jar, while the Whitfield wildflower costs €6.50 for 230g. Distribution is very limited – Ardkeen Quality Foods in <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/waterford\" target=\"_blank\">Waterford</a>, Cove Stores in Tramore, and the <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/dun-laoghaire\" target=\"_blank\">Dún Laoghaire</a> and Mahon Point markets.","type":"text"},{"_id":"6YHDSHHFNNH4JJK6ZHCYLYEF4Q","additional_properties":{"_id":"MV4X5HPDPBG7VJ3O773OON2DIU"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"PJN65MR635BSVLV5MPTNFATMFE","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459510},"content":"One September afternoon Trihy is preparing to collect the heather honey from a group of 18 hives on a ridge low on the Comeragh mountains. Below stretches a patchwork of green farm fields clear to the sea. Behind is a shallow stand of conifers that offers some protection from the wind, because behind that is the naked heather-strewn expanse of the mountain face. Trihy manages another four or five heather honey hive locations in the foothills and more wildflower honey hives in the flatlands. Most of the locations are arranged by word-of-mouth or by cold-calling on local farmers.","type":"text"},{"_id":"7G47GBX6L5FLJHBEC447FVFQ4M","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459512},"content":"Trihy is kitted up in a well-used beekeepers’ suit that covers him from head to toe, but that doesn’t stop the bees from paying attention. Sometimes their buzzing gets so loud that it is difficult to hear what he is saying.","type":"text"},{"_id":"7O7H5AEAXZBENMMCNOMIMDKNQQ","additional_properties":{"_id":"Q7VGPKCLBNAUTNUIBRJG6J2DMY"},"content":"I thought beekeeping would be easy. The bees had other plans","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"C4PCWT4V2RAZVLEAP5HIOBKP64","additional_properties":{"_id":"VB2A5JIBHREH7H76YLLXEBPVJU"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"75IEYNJ2WVDU5OAWDX3NFQ5QEM","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459513},"content":"It is hard to exaggerate just how many bees there are. When Trihy pulls the top off of a hive, all you see is a heaving mass. For the most part they are pretty well-behaved. He jets in a few puffs of smoke before starting and that seems to have a calming effect. Still, while he works the hives, the swarm surrounds him, mostly out of curiosity it seems rather than anger.","type":"text"},{"_id":"GUEBMMDMYREUROBPUHRFCQKYSE","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459514},"content":"Not that his job is without peril. “I get stung most days in summer,” he says. “It just becomes a non-event after a few years. I got four or five stings on my face today, but you wouldn’t know it.","type":"text"},{"_id":"TSAWJTST7JH3NBTMXVO52CQDC4","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459515},"content":"“Most of the stings are my own fault. Maybe I’m getting nosy and come in to have a look at a hive without fully suiting up. And when they’re on the heather for some reason they’re not always in the best of humour.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"JHTAWLIA65EIRKBFI2VOKWWCK4","additional_properties":{"_id":1730455202974},"content":"Though there has been much concern about the decline of wild bee populations, Trihy uses domesticated European bees (Apis mellifera) for his honey and says he hasn’t seen more than the normal swings in numbers. Bees are short-lived in the best of conditions and he says the 10 per cent of hives he normally loses in the course of the working year are easily made up in the spring.","type":"text"},{"_id":"XJETU4RT6ZCA3MFPWLOS4XAX74","additional_properties":{"_id":"YEIJIFFRPBALRJO56E7777L2QM"},"subtype":"pullquote","type":"quote"},{"_id":"I5LPVEHS5JEJTHTQE455XCOG5Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459517},"content":"Trihy began keeping bees as a teenager, helping out his grandfather Paddy Trihy, who lives near Portlaw. After studying agriculture at what was then Waterford Institute of Technology, he started keeping bees full-time seven years ago.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5V4HP4G56VBPJOUDQER5E2HMGM","additional_properties":{"_id":"NMKYHK4R3NFRJDC3VSGYISNF54"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"JHE2KVRNTBETPJ4WJU4TSLHAVA","additional_properties":{"_id":1730455202978},"content":"These hives are two-storey affairs made from rough wooden boxes. The top floor is where the bees store the honey, the bottom is the domain of the queen, who keeps producing more bees. For ease of production, the two levels are separated by a board called a queen excluder. Before collecting the honey, Trihy removes the excluders, which allows the bees working the top story to congregate around the queen.","type":"text"},{"_id":"7QRM52E7RBHVVJVRQAQTBQTVKA","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459519},"content":"The bees deposit the honey on thin vertically hung frames. To collect it, Trihy removes the wax caps, then agitates the honeycomb capsules with needles to liquefy the honey. Finally, he runs the honey through a centrifuge to separate the last of the wax.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5CYOJM3ZYZCZLGXDKHWP6IBOZE","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459520},"content":"The heather honey usually yields only about 10-15lb per hive. The summer honey is more productive, usually double that.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OHJA2SVC4FDXXFEOG7TAJ2OPH4","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459521},"content":"The actual production of the honey is only a small part of Trihy’s work. Most of his effort goes into keeping his workers healthy and ready to produce.","type":"text"},{"_id":"VTMTXD2Z3VGK3K5XDMROHRGCAY","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459522},"content":"This is particularly important in Ireland where good summer weather seems to come only in short unpredictable spurts. “In Ireland we have just a limited chance to make honey,” says Trihy. “So my job is having the bees ready for when that chance comes.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HCRADJDOEFFPLOYTJX5H77IILY","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459523},"content":"“The whole year revolves around keeping them strong and vigorous in hopes that they get some break in the weather and can make the most of it and put away enough honey to last.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DAUOAMHWMJDYVJX72XWFMLBTJE","additional_properties":{"_id":1729760459524},"content":"“That’s what all the management revolves around. Lots of little things.”","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Russ Parsons"}},"name":"Russ Parsons"}]},"description":{"basic":"Real Irish honey is a glorious thing, richly flavoured from whatever flowers the bees that produce it were feeding on ... industrial honey is often little more than sugar water"},"display_date":"2024-11-05T07:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"The Waterford beekeeper: ‘I got four or five stings on my face today, but you wouldn’t know it’","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"RSOFOKXAWFG7HPCYCWXHFVHNAU","auth":{"1":"93c1525c19b5712a7532b60b0e8ecfedc7719250e68ec4be7207a100ec66f2f5"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/RSOFOKXAWFG7HPCYCWXHFVHNAU.jpg"},"overline_logo":{"_id":"7AJ6WIC3YBEBRBYXFUN6REA6SI","auth":{"1":"3cd678dc8ef9d4f3a015c296f7cf1780fd38380a4fd1afc54c300eee76617185"},"url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/7AJ6WIC3YBEBRBYXFUN6REA6SI.png"}},"subtype":"feature","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2024/11/05/the-waterford-beekeeper-i-got-four-or-five-stings-on-my-face-today-but-you-wouldnt-know-it/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"47OZVOQTJBHXRI7RS65EGWG4BA","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":386,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/999eae7a-9a67-4097-a807-f62898485722/versions/1727867670/media/30d4b5ae9a049101691b039b798e0609_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2024/10/23/food-editor-russ-parsons-on-moving-to-waterford-after-30-years-in-los-angeles-ireland-feels-like-a-balm-2/","content_elements":[{"_id":"QWLI7YVOP5H7JGVMULQQKHBI2A","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185881},"content":"Early this autumn, I was picking wild blackberries at my secret spot by the football pitch, nudging aside the brambles and gingerly plucking the darkest, shiniest berries into my bucket. Three different dog walkers passed and started chatting happily about their memories of doing the same when they were young ones.","type":"text"},{"_id":"XEMDLCCC6VGHDFTSHRPCDYXIWE","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185882},"content":"Back home, while I was cooking the berries down to make jam, it occurred to me that maybe what I’m really doing is finally living my Irish childhood – at almost 70 years old.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PE27HXKCXFCF5DMPINE7JJPIJU","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185883},"content":"Five years ago this Christmas, my wife and I rented out our house in southern California, put most of our belongings into storage and flew to <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/ireland/\" target=\"_blank\">Ireland</a> with five suitcases to begin what we thought would be a year-long adventure.","type":"text"},{"_id":"GWIBSM5G45BXNJYCFRAUQ72EMM","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185884},"content":"We planned to use <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/waterford/\" target=\"_blank\">Waterford</a> as a home base, spending precious time with our wee grandbabies and jetting off regularly to visit friends and explore <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/world/europe/\" target=\"_blank\">Europe</a>.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5XHISJ6L4VGQZDY2EPZC2AAWHQ","additional_properties":{"_id":"QVITGX7EPZEXPNZNYMB4LSPEFY"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"ROKH7S2T6VCEBFPD227MHZ7KPE","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185885},"content":"Funny how life turns out, isn’t it?","type":"text"},{"_id":"5L7SJ2UE7FB3XBXAOPOXV7BMAU","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185886},"content":"Now here we are, comfortably ensconced in a wonderful home, in a terrific city, surrounded by family and dear friends. It has been an adventure, indeed. Within a couple of months of our arrival, Ireland and the rest of the world went into the deep pandemic lockdown. Instead of heading for Italy, it felt like an adventure walking the dog to People’s Park.","type":"text"},{"_id":"MJQUA2K5TZCH7PUCL4H3SVPVWY","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185887},"content":"When we emerged, my wife and I no longer felt like tourists in Ireland. Rather, it seemed like we almost belonged – at least as much as a couple of blow-ins can in a town where everyone seems to have known each other since creche. I even passed my Irish driver’s test.","type":"text"},{"_id":"GXNOFKFGMRCMJN6ZWHCEFYCTPY","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185888},"content":"No small part of that for me has been writing this <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/author/russ-parsons/\" target=\"_blank\">regular column</a> for the Irish Times. What started as a one-off after Marie Claire Digby saw my tweet about moving to Ireland with only three knives, has now, to my amazement, stretched to nearly 50 columns.","type":"text"},{"_id":"I23HTWKLWFA5DDKODKKBCWI22A","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185889},"content":"After 30 years in Los Angeles, Ireland feels like a balm. I can sum up the difference in the two places quite simply: We loved California when we lived there for its excitement; we love Ireland now for its peace: the soft days, the deep green woods, the rocky beaches, and the friendly bit of craic with strangers.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JAC6UJINDBD57IDIF7HXVH2KPQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185890},"content":"As the food editor at the Los Angeles Times, part of my job for almost 30 years was staying on top of what might be the busiest food scene in the world.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HHPR2GZOFNBCBC5EWEE3UXPM5Y","additional_properties":{"_id":"N6R325JFKREYHJIFV2O5PAH5YA"},"content":"Russ Parsons: Some of the best oysters I’ve tasted are Irish but why are they so rarely for sale here?","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"VQQKA76K7BEV7OSO2NAMLOOLQI","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185891},"content":"We lived within a 30-minute drive of a half-dozen different ethnic “villages” each with its own markets and restaurants catering to a demanding and knowledgeable audience – Little Tokyo, Little Saigon, Koreatown, the predominantly Chinese San Gabriel Valley, as well as the nearly ubiquitous influences of Mexico and central America.","type":"text"},{"_id":"SVQTUTAQBBFW3NGLYCDHFR4APM","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185892},"content":"As a columnist specialising in cooking and sourcing, I was at farmers markets nearly every week, seeking out the best growers and developing recipes using their fruits and vegetables. I even wrote a book about it.","type":"text"},{"_id":"G5TN77ZWRVEXBJRKNGDHER3TLU","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185893},"content":"In those days, I tracked the changing of seasons not by the weather (pretty much always sunny and hot), but by the food I was cooking – citrus and greens in the winter, peaches and tomatoes in the summer.","type":"text"},{"_id":"BQ7VV5MTIZDLZAVTFMZAWNJDRI","additional_properties":{"_id":"VN3TAQGITFF47HQKFV6LPYZLSM"},"content":"Ireland is a cabbage wonderland: take it from this blow-in chef","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"JE75YSPXCFHPZOO55MFXWBRWRA","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185894},"content":"I don’t need to tell you that no such guide is necessary in Ireland, where the changing of seasons is, shall we say, more emphatic (even when they all come on the same day).","type":"text"},{"_id":"I4VRIPGDOZHP5NNGGR52IVDQYM","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185895},"content":"But everything in its season. While my choice of ingredients in Ireland might not be as wide-ranging as it was in Los Angeles, I like to think my appreciation of what I have has become deeper.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ZOHZIIJ2GFDADKYGX422DXTL2U","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185896},"content":"I do have my seasonal markers still – rhubarb starting in early spring, then Wexford strawberries, then apples from my neighbour’s 100-year-old tree, and my foraged blackberries.","type":"text"},{"_id":"LICTVUYCSFCVXLOPJKWMGWLYAQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185897},"content":"And I’ve become familiar with ingredients about which I previously knew relatively little – the differences between savoy and sweet heart cabbages, and between roosters and queens. I’ve come to appreciate more deeply the complexities possible in even seemingly simple ingredients such as carrots and parsnips.","type":"text"},{"_id":"YKDJHPAM3BFSHO5DIJ7OZIIJ6U","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185898},"content":"Don’t even get me started about bacon, which in the US is only smoked and streaky, fried to a salty crispness. Is there a more soulful dish anywhere than good Irish bacon simmered with cabbage, served with steamed potatoes and a ladle of broth?","type":"text"},{"_id":"GXWIMTR2QZGI3DSBMBI6MYBEKI","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185899},"content":"Indeed, the meat in general here is so far superior to what I was used to, whether it’s the beef, pork or lamb, locally grown and cut to order from Kearney’s, my neighbourhood butcher, or the terrific duck from Silver Hill that seems to be in every supermarket.","type":"text"},{"_id":"4M2SOT4QMNBQ5AQLFIWEPKNVUI","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185900},"content":"The same goes for seafood. It’s still a bit puzzling to me that more Irish eaters aren’t enthusiastic about it. Irish oysters are among the best I’ve ever had. And fresh-off-the-boat mackerel is one of my favourite treats. My seafood market (located in a convenience store in Dunmore East) specialises in locally landed fish – John Dory, turbot, various types of sole. And my neighbourhood SuperValu is almost as good.","type":"text"},{"_id":"6OR3F62QUBFIZBNC4VYBJGU3SI","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185901},"content":"Irish cheeses and dairy products need no additional praise from me – suffice to say that St Tola, Cashel, Cooleeney and others are the equals of anything anywhere. It seems every time I walk past the Sheridan’s kiosk, there is a new treasure waiting for me. Just the other day I picked up some raw milk cheddar from Mount Leinster that knocked my socks off.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QQ7MGFUZA5F2XIZNBNVRLXVZCI","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185902},"content":"Cooking is still the centre of my day – my mindfulness practice. The time spent chopping, slicing and sautéing centres me and gives me peace.","type":"text"},{"_id":"MHKJD7YXJJAXTIMHO7DWFNSJ3E","additional_properties":{"_id":"D6QWZPBX5ZF5FHIJAPO4TOR2CE"},"content":"Russ Parsons: Lamb that tastes of the Irish mountainside on which it is reared","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"W4P73NDKDFEFZFFWLULBJZ2SPM","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185903},"content":"I start planning what to have for dinner as soon as I’ve finished lunch. What’s the weather like? What do I have in the refrigerator? Most important: what do I feel like making?","type":"text"},{"_id":"LL44VISSFVATRKQDNAVVL2HXJE","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185904},"content":"Freed from the demands of creating a half-dozen recipes a month for work, I find myself falling into an easy rhythm of my favourite dishes, shuffled as the mood strikes, with the occasional wild card inspiration tossed in to keep me fresh.","type":"text"},{"_id":"VNZ5N5U7EFBMHG3EMXTTOA5DDI","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185905},"content":"When she was growing up, my daughter used to ask at suppertime: “Is this dinner, or is this a recipe test?”","type":"text"},{"_id":"MM6JLOMEMFC3NKAWRVJSNO7B7E","additional_properties":{"_id":1727301185906},"content":"These days, it’s always dinner.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Russ Parsons"}},"name":"Russ Parsons"}]},"description":{"basic":"Five years ago this Christmas, the former LA Times food editor and his wife came to Ireland for a year... now they call Waterford home"},"display_date":"2024-10-23T04:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Moving to Waterford: ‘After 30 years in Los Angeles, Ireland feels like a balm’","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"GX75QVHWTBGAPDCHQ25KDLDCWQ","auth":{"1":"4856ff444d233286534106f8e1b05d6cfbc14cd3e2370b6bd9da03601e047a93"},"focal_point":{"x":3021,"y":1532},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/GX75QVHWTBGAPDCHQ25KDLDCWQ.JPG"}},"subtype":"feature","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2024/10/23/food-editor-russ-parsons-on-moving-to-waterford-after-30-years-in-los-angeles-ireland-feels-like-a-balm-2/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"GXXCRPNITRERPPXXFIM2EWRRU4","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":305,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/a785412f-7746-436e-85dc-56dbae65d687/versions/1724325565/media/49e6f4929d50c675f0c1a4dee94eac15_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2024/09/09/smoked-fish-might-not-be-exotic-in-ireland-but-whats-not-rare-is-still-wonderful/","content_elements":[{"_id":"2S2QS2PDSVATXHA7QXXU6N25D4","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217592},"content":"It’s all well and good to be a genius creative cook, delivering inspired dishes for dinner every night of the week. Or at least it must be, I imagine. Despite 40 years of cooking, I can only dream of that.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PZAIRQWX5FGVJPCZ2BJVP2RODQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217593},"content":"Truth be told, if you’re an everyday cook like I am, you probably have a short repertoire of recipes you fall back on for all of those days when inspiration is lacking. We all have our staple ingredients we keep in the refrigerator or pantry for those nights. One of my favourites is Union Hall’s smoked mackerel.","type":"text"},{"_id":"M3OVMI7U45DFTOOEHCSOW34AWA","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217594},"content":"It’s a funny thing about being a blow-in – a food that most of you might take for granted is exotic to me. I don’t remember seeing smoked mackerel in the US outside of a few gourmet shops. The fact that this wonderful product is available at my neighbourhood Tesco and SuperValu seems like something of a miracle to me.","type":"text"},{"_id":"GMDE6U3GEFD65HWCNUN6KY62FE","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217595},"content":"Union Hall’s smoked mackerel is dense and meaty with only a hint of smoke and just the right amount of saltiness. I use it all the time for impromptu dinner salads.","type":"text"},{"_id":"N6LY443QOZABZCDVLOS5KG7WEA","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217596},"content":"One of my favourites combines smoked mackerel, Little Gem lettuces and grapefruit sections — the acidity from the grapefruit is the perfect foil for the oily fish.","type":"text"},{"_id":"FTK2BH4P5JDWLAIFJXRKXSQNMU","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217597},"content":"It could hardly be easier to make. Peel the skin from the mackerel (this is one of my dog Izzy’s favourite treats) and tear the fish into large flakes. Make a good mustardy vinaigrette. Peel the grapefruit and section the flesh (call them supremes, if you’re feeling fancy). Add any juice from the grapefruit to the vinaigrette and dress the lettuce lightly (don’t drench it). Arrange the mackerel over top and then the grapefruit sections.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DWU3MMFKMZD4HJDH4QQRSW6XTQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217598},"content":"Done and dusted in 15 minutes.","type":"text"},{"_id":"EIFYPYN7FVE5DFLLUE7EGJR6GQ","additional_properties":{"_id":"X33SHHUDA5BM3N5J7JNMY7OMCM"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"FC3PGOTP3JG2VI6JR3SW7J7QYI","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217599},"content":"This smoked mackerel is also really good in a salad with new potatoes. Steam the potatoes until they’re tender and, while they’re still hot, dress them with salt and a bit of vinegar (this way the seasonings penetrate the potato before the flesh cools and becomes waxy). Again toss with the mustardy vinaigrette and flaked mackerel, but finish with chopped chives or green onions. When I have horseradish in the house, a bit of that is delicious, too.","type":"text"},{"_id":"M7DA6DQ4D5BRVIVBOPW4EOB3KY","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217600},"content":"Union Hall is a family business run out of the town by the same name in west Cork. What started as basically a backyard experiment has grown into national distribution. Union Hall now supplies roughly 50-60 tonnes of smoked mackerel every year (it comes both plain and peppered).","type":"text"},{"_id":"EVAPYCIXIBF4FBTHLR67ZZWXNY","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217601},"content":"It also produces a similar amount of smoked salmon. Most of it is cold-smoked but it also makes a bit of very good “barbecued”, which is salmon that is first cold-smoked, then briefly hot-smoked, changing the texture from silky to firm and flaky.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ZNGT3LLI5JAE3AJ62YCAOPPLRY","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217602},"content":"Union Hall does whipped pâtés from both salmon and mackerel, mixed just with mayonnaise, lemon juice and black pepper.","type":"text"},{"_id":"G63XOJYZW5ENVLY7DBAVUZRCNY","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217603},"content":"And it has a line of kippers, which seem to be making something of a comeback. The company does about 20 tonnes of kippers every year.","type":"text"},{"_id":"SQDXICVPZFEOPJQ3IG7XL75OJU","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217604},"content":"The mackerel and herring for kippers are fished off Donegal. The salmon is farmed from Scotland and Norway.","type":"text"},{"_id":"3DFAJJ7FHBCBPCZLC7H7EFTGRA","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217605},"content":"When the salmon fillets arrive they are brined, then arranged on large racks and wheeled into the smoking chamber, which is like a room-sized oven where they are smoked over oak chips at 21-23 degrees for 12-14 hours. The barbecued, which accounts for only about 10 per cent of the salmon total, is then finished at 75 degrees for another 2½-3 hours. The mackerel is handled similarly, but in a smaller chamber that allows the smoke to circulate more quickly.","type":"text"},{"_id":"TEDDGHFTRNCTBGTYUNSPAGCCYY","additional_properties":{"_id":"I73M5PDPEFHSJJNBIJDAQHIVM4"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"MZ6VXUIHLZGMHGXSS5PMRU2WIM","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217606},"content":"All this is a far cry from the way the business began. It was started by Sean’s father, John Nolan. He was a fisherman from nearby Baltimore who married Elmar O’Driscoll from a farming family at Union Hall. The business is still on the old family farm.","type":"text"},{"_id":"5JRMG66KWVE3DPJNVJZ4IAHR3M","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217607},"content":"“My parents started smoking some fish for their own use,” says Sean. “Then they started supplying some local businesses. The two of them were messing around a bit when they were retired. They didn’t look for it to grow, it just happened. It just grew itself.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"7GLFJPTPJNHVLDNUITM5AETWVU","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217608},"content":"The big push came when they got a contract with John Field of Field’s SuperValu in Skibbereen. That was when Sean joined the company while in his 30s, having started work fishing off trawlers.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ZKZIVDDUWNGLDC4BQUQN24JIIQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217609},"content":"“It’s not the easiest life,” he says. “Every day is different. When we started, we did mostly herring. Then kippers went away, but now the taste for them is improving and they’re coming back again.","type":"text"},{"_id":"SVTELM67RVC2LCHAFIDCJ2HQWQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1724165217610},"content":"“Mackerel is the big thing for us now and it’s getting bigger. We’re not doing too bad.”","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Russ Parsons"}},"name":"Russ Parsons"}]},"description":{"basic":"Sean Nolan’s parents started smoking fish for themselves in retirement, and soon the Union Hall institution was born"},"display_date":"2024-09-09T04:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Smoked fish might not be exotic in Ireland, but what’s not rare is still wonderful","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"CUGNJJOPO5GU5NVQ6N3WFVCMBE","auth":{"1":"50e0b954b2c7988b7b55daddbfb42cd02e26a7bdb93e75b7866bc88bcb48f8f6"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/CUGNJJOPO5GU5NVQ6N3WFVCMBE.jpg"}},"subtype":"feature","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2024/09/09/smoked-fish-might-not-be-exotic-in-ireland-but-whats-not-rare-is-still-wonderful/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"NSFBU24HUBFXBNHOYIPBOFKPVA","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":337,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/5469/podcasts/ada83714-8f14-4de1-ab6d-1722778b425c/versions/1721142082/media/9012bbba339271e30517e06d84048b88_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2024/07/30/from-farmer-to-artisan-cheese-maker-raw-milk-was-an-object-of-fear-but-to-me-its-the-flavour-of-the-land/","content_elements":[{"_id":"GYHSUNWSVZASLL6NNH5RNHNZFI","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460761},"content":"Eamonn Lonergan’s light bulb moment came watching a documentary on RTÉ. It was the mid-1980s and he had taken over running his family’s dairy farm in the townland of Ballyneety, in west <a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/tags/waterford\" target=\"_blank\">Waterford</a>’s Knockanore parish.","type":"text"},{"_id":"GVSGAVR25BDF5IQAEJJ2PCRJSI","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460762},"content":"The show featured Veronica Steele from west Cork’s pioneering Milleens Cheese. The first thing that struck Lonergan was the process, which reminded him of his childhood visiting an uncle who worked at a dairy.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QS6HWODVRNBWXDZCZR355BM3TA","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460763},"content":"“Even as a boy I was fascinated by that time when milk becomes curds and whey,” he says. “It’s like magic.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"ILQOJF3JXJHYDEZUV3F62DGJX4","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460764},"content":"The second thing was that the Steeles were doing this with milk that came from cows on poor, stony soil, nothing like the rich grass that grows in the Blackwater Valley.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DX5UTEVBPJAQNNDRM6IHDG2HHE","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460765},"content":"“It seemed to me we had better land this side of the country and much better milk,” says Lonergan.","type":"text"},{"_id":"IBTZGKP2T5GOXJTTJYWBJJQPSA","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460766},"content":"So off he went to University College Cork, Ireland’s incubator of fine cheeses, and in 1987 he started making cheese seriously as part of the first wave of modern Irish artisanal cheesemaking pioneers. Milleens had started in the mid-1970s, followed by Cashel Blue in 1984 and Cooleeney Farm in 1986.","type":"text"},{"_id":"GL3EFCA2MBF6NMZWZEGGHFWTPU","additional_properties":{"_id":"MLSUEX4ATRCF3DRNHUYVFF6IZQ"},"subtype":"pullquote","type":"quote"},{"_id":"K7DKIR7QZJELHPWP6PEF63ETL4","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460767},"content":"Nearly 40 years later, Knockanore Farmhouse cheddar, made only with milk from the farm’s herd of Friesian cows and only during the warmer months when they are feeding on grass from the roughly 200-acre farm, is regarded as one of Ireland’s standout cheeses.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ESNEU275UJCRHAS3C2ICJJAB4A","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460768},"content":"Knockanore Farm cheddars are vacuum-packed for ageing, so stylistically they are somewhere between industrial cheeses and the more austere, granular traditional farmhouse cheddars.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QPE4NLZHKZCZTJHK3LCQ54RW6I","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460769},"content":"Tasted side by side with a mass-market cheddar, the difference is unmistakable. The flavour is multilayered and complex rather than the simple one-note with which we’re so familiar.","type":"text"},{"_id":"YIAOJYDQCVHS7LZH6EGCS37CYA","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460770},"content":"Making a great cheese like this is a challenge in itself, but as if that wasn’t enough, Lonergan set himself two further hurdles.","type":"text"},{"_id":"LKX4PBFLZBH2BCSRNXZAXNK4AI","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460771},"content":"First, he chose to stake his claim on cheddar – competing directly against the big industrial dairies. “There were a few people at the time doing cheddar, but they weren’t doing it at any great level,” he says. “So I thought maybe here’s a chance. Plus, it let me make more volume and have increased shelf life.”","type":"text"},{"_id":"TQRVFKU2RZFMVD5FWJ4AD2RK7M","additional_properties":{"_id":"I6QC3Z7BUFD2ZDCMOUYVBOGIME"},"content":"Gourmet getaways: The best places to eat and drink in Connemara","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"66AV6MKFGJCBDMXJE76NDX2OIA","additional_properties":{"_id":"J2OU6GH2CZCYNHJK5SDVX5DMHY"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"TUCAIXQZ2BDZXHG5XTYPABHQ54","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460773},"content":"Furthermore, he chose to make that cheese from raw milk rather than pasteurised, one of the first of its kind in Ireland and even today one of only a dozen or so raw milk cheeses of any kind made here. At that time it flew in the face of warnings from food professionals, but Lonergan knew the long ageing of cheddar would make it safe.","type":"text"},{"_id":"6U6RQQ3DWNC57P5NJVS5577WUM","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460774},"content":"“There was a bit of fighting against it,” he says. “Raw milk was an object of fear then. They wanted everyone to go pasteurised. But to me, it was a point of difference for us. It’s the flavour of the land. Using raw milk gives the flavours of the environment, gives the flavour of the countryside, of where the cows are grazing. Why would you kill something that gives some of the flavour?”","type":"text"},{"_id":"HC6UMCPSNFHDBMUOCTAI5HOELU","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460775},"content":"Having established Knockanore cheddar as a prize cheese, Lonergan didn’t rest on his laurels. In 1992 he decided to introduce a smoked cheese. At first he used an old freezer in the dairy yard and smoked wheels of cheddar over oak scraps.","type":"text"},{"_id":"3LK2QUUXVFD3HEKUVFCLYZGJDM","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460776},"content":"This smoked cheddar became so popular it soon became Knockanore’s flagship product. Today the cheese is smoked in a room-sized chamber that can handle up to 300 wheels at a time. But it is still smoked over real wood chips – no artificial flavouring added. Today, of the roughly 15,000-20,000 wheels of Knockanore cheddar made every year, about 65 per cent ends up being smoked.","type":"text"},{"_id":"4C33IB7NF5FZZFL5IEFGUIOANM","additional_properties":{"_id":"ROQWBCL7LRHJHBYI7BV6NOVOSQ"},"content":"Restaurants offering seriously good food and great value for summer get-togethers","type":"interstitial_link"},{"_id":"MLJ72RD4JFGIRJHYBH2MZFDUPQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460777},"content":"The innovation continues to this day. While selling a prize-winning cheese like Knockanore has its rewards, financially it can be a struggle. Growth is limited to the size of the dairy herd your land can support, which is governed by EU regulations.","type":"text"},{"_id":"VAGGLQZTCJHKRNWRWPSQXPQCSM","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460778},"content":"With that in mind, in 2019 Lonergan started a brand of flavoured cheddars called Bride Valley, made with pasteurised cheeses from other farms, which are then ground, flavoured with anything from sun-dried tomatoes to horseradish, and re-pressed into wheels. This now accounts for an additional 7,000-10,000 wheels of cheese.","type":"text"},{"_id":"6VXY77YW5BETHPBILA7SNX5U5A","additional_properties":{"_id":"KGUVEQ3UAZCZRKNEPP5R3VW4SI"},"subtype":"pullquote","type":"quote"},{"_id":"PWRNQ5GE3ZBX5N5MCCKCOFONQQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460779},"content":"He also makes own-brand cheeses for several grocery chains and even custom-cuts and packs cheeses for other cheesemakers from all over Europe.","type":"text"},{"_id":"BDOLREOQWRHHZH7PANJKPPDU3A","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460780},"content":"This multifaceted approach really paid off when Lonergan’s 31-year-old son, Edward, decided to return to the farm after his training as a chartered accountant. He had been working for Musgrave’s, parent company of SuperValu and Centra, picking up valuable retail experience.","type":"text"},{"_id":"4EREVMTRTJDOFKGFKB6YDTEUYE","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460781},"content":"“The challenge then was to get the business to a point where it could support two families,” says Lonergan.","type":"text"},{"_id":"WZ26YT5BIBETZCPK3MDSLF26P4","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460782},"content":"With Eamonn, who is now 67, ready to slow down a bit, this diversification is key to ensuring that Knockanore Farm thrives into the next generation, says Edward.","type":"text"},{"_id":"PSJ7CRQECNBZNEKINC6ZS6IFMM","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460783},"content":"“It’s incredibly hard to grow a farm, even with the best will in the world, mainly because you need the land to do it and land is scarce,” he says. “If you’re just doing a raw milk cheese, that’s a premium product, and not everyone loves that. This is a way of diversifying by making a quality pasteurised cheddar at a lower price point and getting into more customers’ baskets.","type":"text"},{"_id":"IMKEVVJDKBAMXJZAEFOEJ5Z7MM","additional_properties":{"_id":1720533460785},"content":"“Cheddar is the largest cheese produced around the world, but artisan cheese farmers are such a small part of that. This is our way of trying to increase our market share and not be fully reliant on the artisan product.”","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"premium"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Russ Parsons"}},"name":"Russ Parsons"}]},"description":{"basic":"Taking on industry giants and using raw milk in the 1980s proved to be two big hurdles for the Waterford producer"},"display_date":"2024-07-30T04:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"From farmer to artisan cheese maker: ‘Raw milk was an object of fear. But to me it’s the flavour of the 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any type of stone fruit will enhance its flavour many times; a cheat if you will. This works particularly well if your fruit happens to be slightly underripe as it helps it along and concentrates all that sweet honey fruitiness.","type":"text"},{"_id":"SOOK5YJBJ5H73I2E4MYD7HGYLM","additional_properties":{"_id":1660670286280},"content":"I adore plums. Their slight sourness is the draw for me, lip-puckering and tangy. I welcome the change from the sweet fruit of the summer once the weather starts to get cooler. Plums are such a beautiful and versatile fruit, great in jams, compotes, or baked into tarts. There are always various coloured plums on the supermarket shelves at this time of the year, each with a slightly different flavour.","type":"text"},{"_id":"3STEJB7AGBBC7P2NF5ZTQYY4QE","additional_properties":{"_id":1660670286281},"content":"This cake is one of my favourite recipes I’ve ever written for this column. It is stunning in its rustic simplicity, but still gives a wow-factor. The plums are sliced and arranged in concentric circles around the base of a cake tin and a light hazelnut sponge is piled on top, so that once baked, the plums burst and meld into each other and into the sponge, before being turned out to reveal a gorgeous ruby-red upside-down plum cake. Use a mix of plums if you can find them.","type":"text"},{"_id":"63MI2PVSFZBVXF3I2BJHYUC6NI","additional_properties":{"_id":"SLUVHOU4OBCDFK2T7YJG2LLATM"},"type":"image"},{"_id":"IYMNGCQEVJBRDKCHAND52X43O4","additional_properties":{"_id":1660670286282},"content":"The hazelnut works well with the plums here to give it a nutty, slightly earthy flavour, along with cinnamon and some orange zest, giving another nod to the changing seasons. There is another addition to the recipe to ensure a super shiny finish on the plums once the cake is turned out: a mixture of melted honey and butter is poured on the base of the tin before the plums are arranged. This extra step adds flavour as well as giving the plums shine and is well worth including.","type":"text"},{"_id":"7MM5KZVGJNAFXCLSDHQY6YOVQ4","additional_properties":{"_id":1660670286283},"content":"Use a loose bottomed tin if you have one, it always makes it much easier to remove the cake once baked, just wrap a sheet or two of foil around the outside of the base of the tin to ensure that no melted butter and honey mix seep out.","type":"text"},{"_id":"CPRIUK6RQJA4LGG3H2GE6LS6BM","additional_properties":{"_id":1660670286284},"content":"This week’s recipe will unfortunately be the last in my bake column for The Irish Times Magazine as I move on to my next venture in sunny Sydney, Australia. I have thoroughly enjoyed writing, recipe testing and connecting with so many readers over the past two years through this column. Hopefully I have managed to inspire a few budding bakers around the country.","type":"text"},{"_id":"XHU7W76SVFD2DCPV7ITN5VA3F4","additional_properties":{"_id":1661170662350},"content":"<a href=\"https://www.irishtimes.com/food/recipes/2022/08/27/plum-hazelnut-cake/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Recipe: Plum hazelnut cake</b></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Aoife Noonan"}},"name":"Aoife Noonan"}]},"description":{"basic":"There are various coloured plums available now, each with a slightly different flavour"},"display_date":"2022-08-27T04:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Aoife Noonan: One of my favourite recipes ever — plum hazelnut cake","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"VYRUXEUAIBFBXO7XQ6OPMFEHRU","auth":{"1":"d375f879d2749aacd405d69b5963e385fa32f7ec4d549f997241216b685bcbb5"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/VYRUXEUAIBFBXO7XQ6OPMFEHRU.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2022/08/27/aoife-noonan-for-my-final-column-one-of-my-favourite-recipes-ever-plum-hazelnut-cake/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"5IQNFTYJF5C6FMVKPSLEVG3YCY","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":109,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/4877447/media/cf7c9a02131062840170976bd80cafaf_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/recipes/2022/08/27/plum-hazelnut-cake/","content_elements":[{"_id":"P2DD2N54ONHA3K7M3VVDPKNHDU","additional_properties":{"_id":"XKUSBP3CC5FY5LSAZOUZDHIPAE"},"embed":{"config":{},"id":"recipe-highlights-42439","url":"/"},"subtype":"recipe-highlights-powerup","type":"custom_embed"},{"_id":"VOGKNEHUQVGAVB4X2ZUZK5DTVA","additional_properties":{"_id":1660671854097},"content":"<i>For the plums</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"VJWHVE2PSNCATAC5AWUXLKAE4M","additional_properties":{"_id":1660671854099},"content":"<b>1</b> Grease a 20cm loose bottomed cake tin with a little butter. Wrap a sheet or two of foil around the outside of the tin. Preheat the oven to 180 degrees or 160 degrees if using a fan oven.","type":"text"},{"_id":"AP62QVIN5RAU5ENJQL7SOGR4YQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1660671854100},"content":"<b>2</b> Heat the honey and butter in a small saucepan, or microwave-safe bowl in the microwave until just melted. Pour the mixture on to the base of the cake tin and spread out to ensure it is evenly distributed.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KMWHB4KKKJG6LDICBCJAIXGQJI","additional_properties":{"_id":1660671854101},"content":"<b>3</b> Halve the plums and remove the stones, then slice each half into thin slices, about ½ cm thick. Then, starting from the outside of the tin, arrange the slices in a circle, with the plums slightly overlapping. Repeat to make another circle and continue until you have filled in the centre. Set aside while making the sponge.","type":"text"},{"_id":"ZIN6X4ZS55EN3KDOMZCJRXA664","additional_properties":{"_id":1660671854102},"content":"<i>For the sponge</i>","type":"text"},{"_id":"SOJVM4NLWZEQXA3RBDXBZRNOMI","additional_properties":{"_id":1660671854103},"content":"<b>1</b> Cream the butter and sugar together in large bowl or using a stand mixer (with the paddle attachment) until pale and soft. Add in the oil followed by the eggs one by one, beating well until smooth.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DAZOKZIDXVECJLXEKRKAYDCLSA","additional_properties":{"_id":1660671854104},"content":"<b>2</b> Add in the ground hazelnuts and grated orange zest. Sift in the flour and cinnamon and mix gently until just combined. Add the milk and fold through.","type":"text"},{"_id":"BNMBAACOUVB7HC5YO3EISYS7DY","additional_properties":{"_id":1660671854105},"content":"<b>3</b> Scrape the batter on top of the plums and gently spread out, taking care not to move the plums around.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JGQITUBGRVDJ3JFEPD63R2ZNNM","additional_properties":{"_id":1660671854106},"content":"<b>4 </b>Bake in the preheated oven for 40-45 minutes, until well risen and golden brown, or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HWOZZIK7XZGFXC445SH6M6XP5M","additional_properties":{"_id":1660671854107},"content":"<b>5</b> Remove from the oven and leave to cool in the tin for five minutes before carefully turning out on to a wire rack to cool completely.","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Aoife Noonan"}},"name":"Aoife Noonan"}]},"description":{"basic":"Aoife Noonan’s recipe for an autumnal dessert made from multicoloured plums"},"display_date":"2022-08-27T03:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"Plum hazelnut cake","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"VYRUXEUAIBFBXO7XQ6OPMFEHRU","auth":{"1":"d375f879d2749aacd405d69b5963e385fa32f7ec4d549f997241216b685bcbb5"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/VYRUXEUAIBFBXO7XQ6OPMFEHRU.jpg"}},"subtype":"recipe","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Recipes"},{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/recipes/2022/08/27/plum-hazelnut-cake/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food/recipes","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Recipes"}}}},{"_id":"6KEVM2UT7BFUHFBNALXSZ2PJCU","additional_properties":{"audio_duration":147,"audio_url":"https://d22tbkdovk5ea2.cloudfront.net/audio/projects/8948/podcasts/4800638/media/ff5f141c5d249fbf43790371872b310c_compiled.mp3"},"canonical_url":"/food/2022/08/20/the-secret-to-great-chocolate-chip-cookies/","content_elements":[{"_id":"P3J4CLE4ONE5XFHGSWAOBXQR3M","additional_properties":{"_id":1660054875651},"content":"Condensed milk is not something I use much of when cooking. When I was growing up it was always there at the back of the cupboard gathering dust, behind the jam sugar, another ingredient that wasn’t used much either.","type":"text"},{"_id":"RCGV3UERVVCPNPTBEKVWKVLWZ4","additional_properties":{"_id":1660054875652},"content":"The only thing that little tin ever seemed good for was boiling for hours to make a sticky caramel to be used as a middle layer in millionaires shortbread, but even making this was a stretch. Patience is not one of my virtues.","type":"text"},{"_id":"KIEUVCGIBFAZ3CHMV3QB7BKOTA","additional_properties":{"_id":1660054875653},"content":"Using condensed milk in cookies, however, is a different ball game. Cookies are one of the quickest bakes to make and provide instant joy. Condensed milk gives them a soft milkiness in flavour and helps achieve a beautiful texture; crumbly but still sturdy and a little chewy.","type":"text"},{"_id":"UWQW2SH4WFESLMNJAG6742LE6Q","additional_properties":{"_id":1660054875654},"content":"I add some finely chopped toasted hazelnuts to mine; they add delicious crunch and an earthy, nutty flavour throughout. These can be omitted if you prefer, or if baking for someone with a nut allergy. You can also throw in other nuts: pecans, almonds, or pistachios will all work wonderfully in place of the hazelnut and all tend to pair well with chocolate.","type":"text"},{"_id":"CH6RAPV46VBAFDBAEZYJ5RVGPM","additional_properties":{"_id":1660054875655},"content":"The chocolate I use when baking is always dark — anywhere upwards of 55 per cent cocoa solids is perfect. The dark chocolate adds a slight bitterness, which is something I want running through a sweet cookie to balance the flavours. The condensed milk will also add a little sweetness, so this is worth remembering here if you are tempted to use milk chocolate, which is much sweeter.","type":"text"},{"_id":"EOEWQAEUTNAHDOPOQYTC3WWUPM","additional_properties":{"_id":1660054875656},"content":"I buy good quality bars of chocolate and chop them by hand, for two reasons. The first is that whole bars in most supermarkets are usually better quality than chocolate drops (but please don’t use cooking chocolate bars), and secondly, when cut roughly by hand, you end up with various-sized shards of chocolate dotted throughout your cookie, which create gorgeous melty pockets of chocolate just warm from the oven.","type":"text"},{"_id":"DRNETBV66VDCDHHFBPRK7G2GHI","additional_properties":{"_id":1660054875657},"content":"This batch will make about 16 decent-sized cookies. They will spread a little in the oven, sometimes in a shape other than a perfect circle. Wiggle a large, round cookie or scone cutter around the warm cookies once baked to help attain that picture-perfect cookie shape.","type":"text"},{"_id":"MKBT4UWXZBE53FGSMPQ2ZPB7TM","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055508405},"content":"<a href=\"http://www.irishtimes.com//food/recipes/2022/08/20/chocolate-chip-and-hazelnut-condensed-milk-cookies/\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Recipe: Chocolate chip and hazelnut condensed milk cookies</b></a>","type":"text"}],"content_restrictions":{"content_code":"metered"},"credits":{"by":[{"additional_properties":{"original":{"byline":"Aoife Noonan"}},"name":"Aoife Noonan"}]},"description":{"basic":"Aoife Noonan: Use condensed milk, good-quality dark chocolate (never cooking chocolate) and a dash of nuts"},"display_date":"2022-08-20T04:00:00Z","headlines":{"basic":"The secret to great chocolate chip cookies","native":""},"label":{"audio_project_id":{"text":"8948"}},"promo_items":{"basic":{"_id":"KZ35MGACVNDNLBVGYVLV5QUBWA","auth":{"1":"702880121674e38c13153110a3958ec97a474ddd032c87b262516a37d7b7c8e6"},"type":"image","url":"https://cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/irishtimes/KZ35MGACVNDNLBVGYVLV5QUBWA.jpg"}},"subtype":"columnist","taxonomy":{"sections":[{"name":"Food"}]},"type":"story","website_url":"/food/2022/08/20/the-secret-to-great-chocolate-chip-cookies/","websites":{"irishtimes":{"website_section":{"_id":"/food","additional_properties":{"original":{}},"name":"Food"}}}},{"_id":"XFKS5NY4GVGDNKTBHSF2CRBNUE","additional_properties":{},"canonical_url":"/food/recipes/2022/08/20/chocolate-chip-and-hazelnut-condensed-milk-cookies/","content_elements":[{"_id":"37H2A7RSDFE67DMNHUQ6W2LAPA","additional_properties":{"_id":"LZMIFA3LAJFUJFJKWGMYZKL6BE"},"embed":{"config":{},"id":"recipe-highlights-34272","url":"/"},"subtype":"recipe-highlights-powerup","type":"custom_embed"},{"_id":"RYZR527PH5BBDDISQL5YWCWAMQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055098839},"content":"1. Preheat the oven to 195 degrees, or 175 degrees if using a fan. Line two baking trays with parchment paper.","type":"text"},{"_id":"XFORVSEVAZHJDPIYYGKTTGDWHM","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055098840},"content":"2. Place the hazelnuts on a separate tray or small dish and place in the oven for about 10 minutes, until lightly toasted. Leave to cool slightly, then place on a chopping board and finely chop. Set aside.","type":"text"},{"_id":"UCM2OCHE7JEHHAK3VTYRWV4NT4","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055098841},"content":"3. Roughly chop the chocolate into small chunks and set aside.","type":"text"},{"_id":"HY3CNXGZBRG5DKNJRHWLDRPKIQ","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055098842},"content":"4. Cream together the butter and soft brown sugar in a large bowl by hand, using an electric whisk or in a stand mixer, until pale and soft.","type":"text"},{"_id":"JSO6KUQESVHFDANPHO6LV3QKOA","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055098843},"content":"5. Add the condensed milk and continue to beat together until the mixture is smooth.","type":"text"},{"_id":"U7TH2GDVBFDJVMDXC6ATF3S2KM","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055098844},"content":"6. Sift in the dry ingredients (the flour, salt, and baking powder), and add the cooled chopped hazelnuts and chopped chocolate chunks.","type":"text"},{"_id":"6UC3AHK3MZFRXE5QT5FIKTZFKI","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055098845},"content":"7. Mix everything together to form a lumpy cookie dough; the chocolate and hazelnuts should be evenly dispersed throughout the dough.","type":"text"},{"_id":"4AQVLSSUKBEU3FA24MWM7I3SBI","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055098846},"content":"8. Divide the dough into about 16 and roll into walnut-sized balls. If you want to be precise, the balls should weigh about 45g each.","type":"text"},{"_id":"OWHZVVNIIZGQRODRN7NAXFFV6U","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055098847},"content":"9. Place on the baking trays, leaving a few centimetres between each. If you are short on oven space or don’t have enough trays as needed, you can cook the cookies in batches.","type":"text"},{"_id":"EYJEEXXHNRD5HLATSUFQ7UAQFA","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055098848},"content":"10. Bake the cookies for about 12-15 minutes. Remove from the oven and tap the trays on the work surface to help flatten them and give them their signature crackle.","type":"text"},{"_id":"YJ62IMICYNH4VD3GRG2RWXFKT4","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055098849},"content":"11. If the cookies aren’t a perfect circle once baked, use a large cookie or scone cutter (slightly bigger than your cookies) to help shape the cookies into circles. Swirl each cookie in the cutter until they become perfectly round.","type":"text"},{"_id":"7VUM22CB7JG25HJYNURTNZ7CKU","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055098850},"content":"12. Leave the cookies to cool, they will continue to cook a little on the tray.","type":"text"},{"_id":"QE6F5YCBG5BB5HPICXBBEODXZU","additional_properties":{"_id":1660055098851},"content":"13. Once cool, the baked cookies can be drizzled with melted chocolate or sprinkled with a little sea salt for added flavour. 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