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<!doctype html> <html lang="en" data-reactroot=""><head><link as="script" href="https://www.afr.com/afx_prid/2023.10.16.1/auth/ps/p202310161.js?lcsid=D3377D70-045F-4C2C-B07F-C88533E87E67" rel="preload"/><script>var afx_start = Date.now();</script><script src="https://www.afr.com/afx_prid/2023.10.16.1/auth/ps/p202310161.js?lcsid=D3377D70-045F-4C2C-B07F-C88533E87E67"></script><meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type"/><meta content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0" name="viewport"/><title data-rh="true">Carol Woolton’s new book If Jewels Could Talk explains the meaning of jewellery</title><link href="//api.ffx.io" rel="dns-prefetch"/><link href="//api.afr.com" rel="dns-prefetch"/><link href="//static.ffx.io" rel="dns-prefetch"/><link href="//www.googletagmanager.com" rel="dns-prefetch"/><link crossorigin="anonymous" href="https://adservice.google.com" rel="preconnect"/><link crossorigin="anonymous" href="https://buy-au.piano.io" rel="preconnect"/><link 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3.359V.88h1.053v5.305H97.2l-1.895-3.628v3.628h-1.052zm71.371-.006c1.365 0 2.496 1.19 2.496 2.624 0 1.433-1.131 2.623-2.496 2.623s-2.495-1.19-2.495-2.623 1.13-2.624 2.495-2.624"></path></svg></a><script type="application/ld+json">{"@context":"https://schema.org","@type":"BreadcrumbList","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","item":{"@id":"https://www.afr.com/life-and-luxury","name":"Life & Luxury"},"position":1},{"@type":"ListItem","item":{"@id":"https://www.afr.com/life-and-luxury/fashion-and-style","name":"Fashion & Style"},"position":2}]}</script><ul class="_741f9bdccbe45c6b5797"><li class="_90b3125353b062c9f570" data-testid="breadcrumb-category"><a class="_3764f7449fdd83320b98" href="/life-and-luxury">Life & Luxury</a></li><li class="_90b3125353b062c9f570" data-testid="breadcrumb-category"><a class="_3764f7449fdd83320b98" href="/life-and-luxury/fashion-and-style">Fashion & Style</a></li></ul><h1 class="a5e47a5d482238319094">How to invest in jewellery</h1><p class="_01bc10df9a78cad19c48">Covering the jewellery beat for 30 years, historian and author Carol Woolton has glittering tales, and ideas for your hard-earned cash.</p></div><div class="_562c84b42f77cf37d420"><figure class="a4385b33fe53e96b825e _6f6db0aa612a03c039e8" data-pb-type="im"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1180px)" width="620" height="620" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.135%2C$multiply_4%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_139/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_620%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.135%2C$multiply_4%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_139/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_1240%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9 2x" data-pb-im-config="{"aspectRatio":1,"type":"square1x1","width":620,"urls":["https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.135%2C$multiply_4%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_139/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_620%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9"," 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https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.135%2C$multiply_4%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_139/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_1004%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9 2x"]}"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" width="696" height="696" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.135%2C$multiply_4%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_139/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_696%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.135%2C$multiply_4%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_139/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_1392%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9 2x" data-pb-im-config="{"aspectRatio":1,"type":"square1x1","width":696,"urls":["https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.135%2C$multiply_4%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_139/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_696%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9"," https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.135%2C$multiply_4%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_139/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_1392%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9 2x"]}"/><img alt="" class="c101ad2e6ff325391dc3" data-testid="Image-image" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.135%2C$multiply_4%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_139/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_620%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.135%2C$multiply_4%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_139/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_382%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.135%2C$multiply_4%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_139/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_764%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9 2x" sizes="(max-width: 767px) 343px" data-id="52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9" data-pb-im-config="{"aspectRatio":1,"type":"square1x1","width":343,"urls":["https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.135%2C$multiply_4%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_139/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_382%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9"," https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.135%2C$multiply_4%2C$ratio_1%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_139/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_764%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/52dd5290f57fd769a815f68775a368082524c8e9 2x"]}" width="343" height="343"/></picture><figcaption class="_80bb118486236bcec2bc"><p>Author, historian and long-serving British Vogue jewellery editor Carol Woolton.  <cite class="_3c0c5a31e2deab9fe7b5"> </cite></p></figcaption></figure></div></header><section class="ae754da393b38cf0f618"><div class="d5dfe5984973a371f244"><section class="_368ce47922cc50406182" id="endOfArticle"><section class="_79ac355651a627afaf4b"><div class="_0744a0c2b755cec1309d"><span class="_4daa2b7c6a2abbd8337c"><span class="bad9c5476c04fb14be3e" data-testid="AuthorNames"><strong><a class="e8a3a96a1d96e42394a5" data-testid="AuthorURL" href="/by/eugenie-kelly-p537gs">Eugenie Kelly</a></strong></span><span class="_9d1c61c1b7efcc9b8f44">Contributor</span></span></div><section class="_288fb9f2c1f978e951fd"><div class="_4d22830be8e035459d36" data-testid="ArticleTimestamp"><time data-testid="ArticleTimestamp-time">Nov 21, 2024 – 5.00am</time></div><div class="_2a6dc840ff6bc204ff53" data-testid="ArticleTools"><div class="_9f146e4c46884f388d0e"><button aria-describedby="articleToolsLoginTooltip" class="_13dba38c2689588db954 _7cd6d3a619318b4274cf" data-click-outside-ignore="true" data-testid="SaveArticle-button" type="button"><span class="_82522fbabfe2be1d6f63"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" fill="none" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="dd6db77aa2c85e94be85" focusable="false" height="1em" aria-hidden="true" width="1em"><path stroke="#111" stroke-width="1.2" d="M6.607 5c0-.221.179-.4.4-.4H17c.22 0 .4.18.4.4v13.077a.4.4 0 0 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auction, scheduled to take place four days after our Zoom call.</p><p>“It’s three rows of collet-set cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds – so 300 carats; hinged to emulate movement so it can be worn as a necklace, a négligée, over the shoulder as an epaulette or ras-de-cou [choker] to adorn the décolletage,” she marvels. “Did you know that fashion is the number one destroyer of jewellery with pieces being dismantled and gems repurposed into new styles? 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data-id="91791bc9aa818341b03a9111b3a9f91bd72c76a0" data-pb-im-config="{"urls":["https://static.ffx.io/images/$width_140%2C$height_140/t_crop_fill%2Cq_auto:best%2Cfl_any_format/91791bc9aa818341b03a9111b3a9f91bd72c76a0"," https://static.ffx.io/images/$width_280%2C$height_280/t_crop_fill%2Cq_auto:best%2Cfl_any_format/91791bc9aa818341b03a9111b3a9f91bd72c76a0 2x"],"width":140,"aspectRatio":1,"type":"square1x1"}" width="140" height="140"/></picture></figure><span class="_1b861ab323f41ec0b7ca"><strong><a class="a189e4281d1ef17b0b4e" data-testid="AuthorURL" href="/by/eugenie-kelly-p537gs">Eugenie Kelly</a></strong></span><span class="_502fdc96c2c81588de6d">Contributor</span><span class="_528a6daccc86ac482af4">Eugenie Kelly writes on fashion, interiors, the arts, style and travel, and edits Life & Leisure's Spend pages. 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& luxury","Fashion & style"],"categoryId":122,"asset":{"about":"Covering the jewellery beat for 30 years, historian and author Carol Woolton has glittering tales, and ideas for your hard-earned cash.","allowComments":false,"body":"\u003Cp\u003EShould Carol Woolton suddenly win the lottery, she plans to splurge her winnings on Lot 1175 at \u003Cx-placeholder id=\"eeaea2e8df380035bdff1fa7f7c615e5d0f0d16b\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E Royal & Noble Jewels auction, scheduled to take place four days after our Zoom call.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s three rows of collet-set cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds – so 300 carats; hinged to emulate movement so it can be worn as a necklace, a négligée, over the shoulder as an epaulette or ras-de-cou [choker] to adorn the décolletage,” she marvels. “Did you know that fashion is the number one destroyer of jewellery with pieces being dismantled and gems repurposed into new styles? The fact this 18th-century Georgian piece has survived is incredible.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cx-placeholder id=\"612c05a57f7dd485bd2137fbf0fa388f480c87a7\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA cornerstone of the aristocratic Paget family’s collection worn by the Marquesses of Anglesey, the piece Woolton is after recently emerged from an important private Asian collection. Not only is it a stunning specimen – it has a killer backstory. “Some of its Golconda diamonds are rumoured to have come from the necklace connected to the ‘Affair of the Necklace’, where Marie Antoinette was accused of reneging on payment for a piece made by the Crown jewellers, tarnishing her reputation and leading to the French Revolution.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Woolton, these diamond tassels encapsulate the mystery and history jewellery can hold. It’s a topic the historian, seven-time author, long-serving British \u003Cem\u003E\u003Cx-placeholder id=\"d4f48a0aa65bf5157cfae7e490eb3676976f7d76\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E jewellery editor and podcast host exhaustively explores in her latest book \u003Ci\u003EIf Jewels Could Talk\u003C\u002Fi\u003E, available next month (and on pre-order now). “[The book] defines why we wear jewellery and the meaning we attach to adorning ourselves,” she explains, adding that, in an era of pandemics, climate change and political unrest, more than ever we’re gravitating towards things that possess a deeper meaning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe numbers don’t lie: after a record year, the jewellery sector is thriving, bucking luxury’s downturn – especially in the medium-priced segment where prices sit between $10,000 to $150,000. (Case in point: the 6 per cent revenue growth across \u003Cx-placeholder id=\"55b62fd8ac53476705e50576768b72e7828c9a70\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E’s jewellery maisons to €14.24 billion, or $23 billion, in fiscal 2024). “Jewellery is a way to identify, both to ourselves and others, and communicate,” she muses. “Through our jewellery choices we can be noticed, seen and heard.” Yes, she says, jewellery was once used for talismanic purposes, but even though we have more scientific means of ensuring good health and fortune these days, \u003Cx-placeholder id=\"e60436b2440846a2137a5dd9e8dd2e4942983371\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWoolton cites a recent incident at a party, where she made a chance comment about a ring \u003Cem\u003EGames of Thrones\u003C\u002Fem\u003E actress Laura Pradelska was wearing. “It led to a long emotional conversation about her Jewish family history during the Holocaust. Many of her family perished, but the stone in the ring survived to tell the tale of their resilience and determination to survive. All embodied in a diamond her fiancé had set for her.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBack in the late ’90s, when glossy magazines ruled and jewellery was relegated to fashion-accessory status (i.e. not considered worthy of its own section, like style or beauty), Woolton convinced UK title \u003Cem\u003ETatler\u003C\u002Fem\u003E to appoint her as its first jewellery editor, moving on five years later to cover the topic for British and American \u003Cem\u003EVogue\u003C\u002Fem\u003Es for more than two decades. “I fought religiously with the magazine editors to get pages away from fashion,” she says. “Now, jewellery dominates publications.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe pivotal turning point – when perceptions around jewellery changed – can be linked to the appointment of creative director \u003Cx-placeholder id=\"566462ab462078c2302c3e3dbbc73a8c62cbff8e\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E at Dior in 1999, says Woolton. “Suddenly [fine jewellery] designs became whimsical and fantastical,” she says. “She brought an unconventional attitude to what ‘precious’ could look like.” It also heralded a huge departure from the traditional formal pieces that Place Vendôme’s jewellery stores were renowned for at the time. “Everything had a new and fresh exuberance,” says Woolton. “De Castellane’s modern use of precious gemstones reflected how women lived.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESomething that hasn’t changed is the \u003Cx-placeholder id=\"332a21ce677dd18efd623ae2c9fb716957420b6a\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E. “It’s usually given as a token of esteem, friendship or love,” says Woolton. “Perhaps that’s why Cartier’s Love Bracelet is the most frequently googled piece of jewellery still today,” she muses of the piece, which debuted in 1969. “It has a special locking mechanism that makes it impossible to remove without a tiny golden screwdriver. The turner of the screw is, in effect, the keeper of their lover’s heart.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EElsa Peretti’s Tiffany Bone cuff – a thick piece of metal moulded anatomically to suit the shape of the wrist – is another piece that holds enduring appeal; Woolton terming it a “generational discovery”. “In 1977, a \u003Cem\u003ENewsweek\u003C\u002Fem\u003E cover story called it the biggest jewellery revolution since the Renaissance.” It remains a key item for the jeweller, now owned by LVMH.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf course, part of the reason Woolton is in the jewellery game is for her own love of the category. Today she wears a delicate pair of vintage peridot earrings by Dolce & Gabbana (“I wrote a book about their high jewellery for Rizzoli last year”) and a striking 1930s malachite ring by Jean Després – its heavy geometric style influenced by the French designer’s stint as an airforce mechanic during World War I. “He was part of the art modern movement, a period where jewellery was reduced to essential forms and referenced the new machine age,” she says, adding this was an era when brooches also came to be considered a revolutionary symbol, often highly embellished with hidden meanings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cx-placeholder id=\"37b65585a5692e4bf1aa48590b64728c28ef8a63\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESignalling protests and patriotism, brooches also nod to the deeply personal. Celebrities and politicians often use them to deliver messages. Woolton points to Angelina Jolie, who wore a Cartier panther brooch in white agate to the Venice Film Festival in August. Once owned by Maria Callas, Jolie wore it to pay homage to the singer; she was in Venice to promote the biopic \u003Cem\u003EMaria\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. At the Oscars earlier in the year, Cillian Murphy wore a bespoke Sauvereign HS14 gem brooch featuring eight concentric trapeziums inspired by his role in \u003Cem\u003EOppenheimer\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThirty years spent covering the category means Woolton also knows the best spots to shop for vintage should you have an eye for the unusual. “FD Gallery in New York is incredible; in London, go to Wartski, S.J. Phillips and Grays Antique Market; in Milan, it has to be Gioielleria Pennisi. But frequent your local auction houses. Everything there is incredibly undervalued.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs for the contemporary names to invest in now – the designers destined for future icon status – Woolton nominates established masters like James de Givenchy of Taffin and Ana Khouri; she also admires the work of Michelle Ong for Carnet and Glenn Spiro for their innovativeness. She has an eye on British-Italian designer Sarah Ysabel Narici, whose two-year-old brand Dyne makes Loverglyph signet rings using symbols, motifs and gemstones to represent a time capsule of the wearer’s life. “They’re like a contemporary charm bracelet in a way,” she says, “with each charm telling someone’s story.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJewellery is an incredibly crowded marketplace, says Woolton, who understands that marketplace has exploded since she first started documenting it in the 1990s. “But what I always tell young people who are trying to break into the business in the traditional ways, is that there’s always room for a new point of view and good design. Especially if it manages to capture the spirit of our era and it will last. It has to tell a story into the future.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ci\u003EIf Jewels Could Talk, Simon & Schuster, $39.99.\u003C\u002Fi\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cx-placeholder id=\"8bc66bc2fd3e5d32d48e426f9a44039d12bbbcb0\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E\u003Cx-placeholder id=\"9d36187e9f50388f39feba098b47544950558d07\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe December issue of \u003Cx-placeholder id=\"a9b8501e859b892856e2dade37784a70485f0768\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003Eis out on Friday, November 29 inside \u003Cx-placeholder id=\"75ef7b2c85b654f7857916767030d89b1febcdaa\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E. 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