CINXE.COM

<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> <html xmlns:og="http://opengraphprotocol.org/schema/" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en" dir="ltr"> <head><script type="text/javascript" src="/_static/js/bundle-playback.js?v=HxkREWBo" charset="utf-8"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="/_static/js/wombat.js?v=txqj7nKC" charset="utf-8"></script> <script>window.RufflePlayer=window.RufflePlayer||{};window.RufflePlayer.config={"autoplay":"on","unmuteOverlay":"hidden"};</script> <script type="text/javascript" src="/_static/js/ruffle/ruffle.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> __wm.init("https://web.archive.org/web"); __wm.wombat("http://www.caravanmagazine.in:80/letters/domestic-tourism-pakistan-super-savari-express","20150806061707","https://web.archive.org/","web","/_static/", "1438841827"); </script> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/_static/css/banner-styles.css?v=S1zqJCYt" /> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/_static/css/iconochive.css?v=3PDvdIFv" />  <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"/> <meta http-equiv="X-UA-Compatible" content="IE=8"/> <meta http-equiv="X-UA-Compatible" content="IE=7"/> <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"/> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707cs_/https://cdnjs.cloudflare.com/ajax/libs/WebRupee/2.0/font.min.css"></link> <link type="text/css" rel="stylesheet" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707cs_/http://fonts.googleapis.com/css?family=Droid+Sans|Droid+Sans:bold|Droid+Sans+Mono|Droid+Serif|Droid+Serif:italic|Droid+Serif:bold|Droid+Serif:bolditalic"/> <style type="text/css" media="screen, projection, tty, tv, print">  </style> <meta property="og:title" content="Domestic Tourism | Pakistan"/> <meta property="og:description" content="EARLY ON A SUNDAY MORNING IN MARCH, a bus stood parked near the Karachi Gymkhana, close to the city centre. It sported the signature kitsch of the city&rsquo;s public buses&mdash;kaleidoscopic paintwo"/> <meta property="og:image" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/domestic-tourism_courtesy-super-savari-express_the-caravan-magazine_july2015_02_0.jpg"/> <meta property="og:type" content="article"/> <meta property="og:url" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/domestic-tourism-pakistan-super-savari-express"/> <meta property="og:site_name" content="The Caravan - A Journal of Politics and Culture"/> <link rel="shortcut icon" href="/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/caravanmag_favicon.jpeg" type="image/x-icon"/> <title>Domestic Tourism | Pakistan | The Caravan - A Journal of Politics and Culture</title> <link type="text/css" rel="stylesheet" media="all" href="/web/20150806061707cs_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/css/css_e3cdb7607067aafec8e802cb19aef209.css"/> <link type="text/css" rel="stylesheet" media="print" href="/web/20150806061707cs_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/css/css_f68b2b7175f13ff2a519f486b7be461d.css"/> <script type="text/javascript" src="/web/20150806061707js_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/js/js_4fbe382ae3ba4f66d5f4ebb579251e0e.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script>    </head> <body class="not-front not-logged-in page-node node-type-story one-sidebar sidebar-right ">  <div id="wrapper"> <div class="head-banner-bg"></div> <div id="container" class="clear-block"> <div id="header"> <div class="ad-banner"><div class="head-banner"><div id="block-block-20" class="clear-block block block-block"> <div class="content"><script async src="//web.archive.org/web/20150806061707js_/http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>  <ins class="adsbygoogle" style="display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1059364442115504" data-ad-slot="3303371735"></ins> <script> (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script> <style type="text/css">  </style></div> </div> <div id="block-views-adds-block_3" class="clear-block block block-views"> <div class="content"><div class="view view-adds view-id-adds view-display-id-block_3 view-dom-id-10"> <div class="view-content"> <div id="views_slideshow_singleframe_main_adds-block_3" class="views_slideshow_singleframe_main views_slideshow_main"><div id="views_slideshow_singleframe_teaser_section_adds-block_3" class="views_slideshow_singleframe_teaser_section"><div class="views_slideshow_singleframe_slide views_slideshow_slide views-row-1 views-row-odd" id="views_slideshow_singleframe_div_adds-block_3_0"><div class="views-row views-row-0 views-row-first views-row-odd"> <div class="views-field-nothing"> <span class="field-content"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/digital-subscriptions" target="_blank"><img class="imagefield imagefield-field_images" width="215" height="85" alt="" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/ipad_top_right.jpg?1377242025"/></a></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div></div> <div id="logo-floater"> <a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/" title=""><img src="/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/all/themes/caravanmag/logo.png" alt="" id="logo"/></a> <ul class="links secondary-links"><li class="menu-5859 first"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/about-us" title="">About Us</a></li> <li class="menu-6207"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/events" title="">Events</a></li> <li class="menu-752"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/advertise" title="Advertise">Advertise</a></li> <li class="menu-3104 last"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/user/register?destination=/" title="Registration page link">Register</a></li> </ul><div class="u-login"> | <a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/user?destination=/">Login</a></div> <div class="block block-theme"><form action="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/domestic-tourism-pakistan-super-savari-express" accept-charset="UTF-8" method="post" id="fuzzysearch-box-form"> <div><div class="container-inline"><div class="form-item" id="edit-keys-wrapper"> <input type="text" maxlength="128" name="keys" id="edit-keys" size="15" value="" class="form-text"/> </div> <input type="submit" name="op" id="edit-submit-2" value="Go" class="form-submit"/> </div><input type="hidden" name="form_build_id" id="form-JIGR1_k9g2W1VAriPOHTDZYqgfn4rNNjZsbQI--f8SY" value="form-JIGR1_k9g2W1VAriPOHTDZYqgfn4rNNjZsbQI--f8SY"/> <input type="hidden" name="form_id" id="edit-fuzzysearch-box-form" value="fuzzysearch_box_form"/> </div></form> </div> </div> <div id="superfish-region" class="clear-block"><div id="block-superfish-1" class="clear-block block block-superfish"> <div class="content"><ul id="superfish-1" class="sf-menu primary-links sf-navbar sf-style-none sf-total-items-9 sf-parent-items-6 sf-single-items-3"><li id="menu-2290-1" class="first odd sf-item-1 sf-depth-1 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/current-issue" title="Current Issue" class="sf-depth-1" id="dhtml_menu-2290">Current Issue</a></li><li id="menu-14829-1" class="middle even sf-item-2 sf-depth-1 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/vantage" title="" class="sf-depth-1" id="dhtml_menu-14829">Vantage</a></li><li id="menu-5427-1" class="middle odd sf-item-3 sf-depth-1 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/archive" title="Archive" class="sf-depth-1" id="dhtml_menu-5427">Archive</a></li><li id="menu-2031-1" class="middle even sf-item-4 sf-depth-1 sf-total-children-6 sf-parent-children-0 sf-single-children-6 menuparent"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reporting-and-essays" title="" class="sf-depth-1 menuparent" id="dhtml_menu-2031">Reporting & Essays</a><ul><li id="menu-2038-1" class="first odd sf-item-1 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reporting-and-essays/reportage" title="reporting-and-essays/reportage" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-2038">Reportage</a></li><li id="menu-2035-1" class="middle even sf-item-2 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reporting-and-essays/essay" title="" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-2035">Essays</a></li><li id="menu-2039-1" class="middle odd sf-item-3 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reporting-and-essays/letters-from" title="" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-2039">Letters From</a></li><li id="menu-2036-1" class="middle even sf-item-4 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reporting-and-essays/photo-essay" title="" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-2036">Photo Essay</a></li><li id="menu-6076-1" class="middle odd sf-item-5 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reporting-and-essays/thelede" title="" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-6076">The Lede</a></li><li id="menu-12055-1" class="last even sf-item-6 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/periscope" title="" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-12055">Periscope</a></li></ul></li><li id="menu-743-1" class="middle odd sf-item-5 sf-depth-1 sf-total-children-2 sf-parent-children-0 sf-single-children-2 menuparent"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/opinions" title="Opinions" class="sf-depth-1 menuparent" id="dhtml_menu-743">Opinions</a><ul><li id="menu-6446-1" class="first odd sf-item-1 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/opinions/perspectives" title="" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-6446">Perspectives</a></li><li id="menu-6447-1" class="last even sf-item-2 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/opinions/editors-corner" title="" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-6447">Editor's Corner</a></li></ul></li><li id="menu-744-1" class="middle even sf-item-6 sf-depth-1 sf-total-children-2 sf-parent-children-0 sf-single-children-2 menuparent"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/books" title="Books" class="sf-depth-1 menuparent" id="dhtml_menu-744">Books</a><ul><li id="menu-745-1" class="first odd sf-item-1 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/books" title="Features index" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-745">Reviews and Essays</a></li><li id="menu-746-1" class="last even sf-item-2 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/books/bookshelf" title="Bookshelf" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-746">Bookshelf</a></li></ul></li><li id="menu-747-1" class="middle odd sf-item-7 sf-depth-1 sf-total-children-2 sf-parent-children-0 sf-single-children-2 menuparent"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/arts" title="Arts" class="sf-depth-1 menuparent" id="dhtml_menu-747">Arts</a><ul><li id="menu-748-1" class="first odd sf-item-1 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/arts" title="Features index" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-748">Reviews and Essays</a></li><li id="menu-749-1" class="last even sf-item-2 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/arts/showcase?field_location_showcase_value=All" title="Showcase" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-749">Showcase</a></li></ul></li><li id="menu-750-1" class="middle even sf-item-8 sf-depth-1 sf-total-children-2 sf-parent-children-0 sf-single-children-2 menuparent"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/fiction-poetry" title="Fiction & Poetry" class="sf-depth-1 menuparent" id="dhtml_menu-750">Fiction & Poetry</a><ul><li id="menu-5966-1" class="first odd sf-item-1 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/fiction-poetry/fiction" title="" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-5966">Fiction</a></li><li id="menu-5967-1" class="last even sf-item-2 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/fiction-poetry/poetry" title="" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-5967">Poetry</a></li></ul></li><li id="menu-751-1" class="last odd sf-item-9 sf-depth-1 sf-total-children-2 sf-parent-children-0 sf-single-children-2 menuparent"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.delhipress.in/Brand.aspx?id=13" title="Subscribe" class="sf-depth-1 menuparent" id="dhtml_menu-751">Subscribe</a><ul><li id="menu-6075-1" class="first odd sf-item-1 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/digital-subscriptions" title="" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-6075">Digital</a></li><li id="menu-6074-1" class="last even sf-item-2 sf-depth-2 sf-no-children"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.delhipress.in/Magazine.aspx?id=13" title="" class="sf-depth-2" id="dhtml_menu-6074">Print</a></li></ul></li></ul></div> </div> <div id="block-block-4" class="clear-block block block-block"> <div class="content"><div class="social"> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.facebook.com/TheCaravanMagazine"><img src="/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/all/themes/caravanmag/images/facebook.jpg"/></a> <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://twitter.com/thecaravanindia"><img src="/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/all/themes/caravanmag/images/twitter.jpg"/> </a><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/storyfeed.xml"><img src="/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/all/themes/caravanmag/images/rss.jpg"/></a></div></div> </div> </div> <div id="blog-top-region" class="clear-block"></div> </div>  <div class="breadcrumb"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/">Home</a> › <a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reporting-and-essays">Reporting & Essays</a> › <a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reporting-and-essays/letters-from">Letters From</a> › Domestic Tourism | Pakistan</div> <div id="center"><div id="squeeze"><div class="right-corner"><div class="left-corner"> <div class="story-cat"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reporting-and-essays/letters-from">Letters From</a></div> <h2>Domestic Tourism | Pakistan</h2> <div class="clear-block"> <style> .description, .form-required{ display:none; } </style> <script> jQuery(function ($) { $('#read-more-modal').click(function (e) { $('#basic-modal-content').modal(); return false; }); }); </script> <div id="basic-modal-content"> <div> <img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/all/themes/caravanmag/images/cvn_login_modal_header.png" style="width:100%;"> </div> <div class="modal-bottom-row-container"> <div class="modal-bottom-column-left"> <a style="color:white;" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/user/register?destination=welcome-caravan"><button class="button-modal-register">REGISTER HERE</button></a> <img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/all/themes/caravanmag/images/cvn_login_modal_logo.png" style="margin-top: 143px;"> </div> <div class="modal-bottom-column-center"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/all/themes/caravanmag/images/cvn_login_modal_mock_middle_panel.png"></div> <div class="modal-bottom-column-right"> <button class="button-modal-login">LOGIN BELOW</button> <form action="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/domestic-tourism-pakistan-super-savari-express" accept-charset="UTF-8" method="post" id="user-login"> <div><div class="form-item" id="edit-name-wrapper"> <label for="edit-name">Username or e-mail address: <span class="form-required" title="This field is required.">*</span></label> <input type="text" maxlength="60" name="name" id="edit-name" size="60" value="" class="form-text required"/> <div class="description">You may login with either your assigned username or your e-mail address.</div> </div> <div class="form-item" id="edit-pass-wrapper"> <label for="edit-pass">Password: <span class="form-required" title="This field is required.">*</span></label> <input type="password" name="pass" id="edit-pass" maxlength="128" size="60" class="form-text required"/> <div class="description">The password field is case sensitive.</div> </div> <input type="hidden" name="form_build_id" id="form-LRVK4W3ynRzOtMuiXhfJkSD6UUTyew5C_KOGvtLut_U" value="form-LRVK4W3ynRzOtMuiXhfJkSD6UUTyew5C_KOGvtLut_U"/> <input type="hidden" name="form_id" id="edit-user-login" value="user_login"/> <input type="submit" name="op" id="edit-submit" value="Log in" class="form-submit"/> </div></form> <p>To reset your password, click <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/user/password">here</a>.</p> </div> </div> </div> <script language="javascript"> function popupstory() { document.write("<div id='floatdiv' style='position:absolute; width:325px; height:220px; left:0px; top:0px; padding:0px; background-image:url(http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/full_story_popup.gif); border:0px solid #B1470D; z-index: 899;'><div style='height:25px;padding-top: 5px; color:#990000;'><div style='float:right; padding:4px;'><a href='#' style='cursor:hand;' onclick='return floatingMenu.hide()'><img src='https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/close.gif' style='border:none;' /></a></div></div><a href='https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.magzter.com/IN/Delhi-Press/The-Caravan/News/' target='_blank' style='cursor:hand;'> <div style='height:190px;'></div></a></div>"); } </script> <script> $("#menu-2031-1").addClass("story-active"); $("#menu-2039-1").addClass("story-active"); </script><div class="subhheading"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/domestic-tourism-pakistan-super-savari-express">A bus tour throws light on Karachi’s urban geography</a></div><div class="authorndate">By <a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/profile/9874">SABA IMTIAZ</a> | <span class="date-display-single">1 July 2015</span></div><div class="full-image-view"><div class="show-image" style="display:block"><div class="f-image"><a rel="lightbox[lightbox_full_image][The Super Savari Express, started in December, strives to show a part of Karachi to Karachiites who would not brave the city by themselves.<br /><br /><a class="lb-credit"> courtesy Super Savari Expres</a>]" title="The Super Savari Express, started in December, strives to show a part of Karachi to Karachiites who would not brave the city by themselves." href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/imagecache/lightbox_full_image/domestic-tourism_courtesy-super-savari-express_the-caravan-magazine_july2015_02.jpg"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/imagecache/story_carousel/domestic-tourism_courtesy-super-savari-express_the-caravan-magazine_july2015_02.jpg" alt="" title="" width="653" height="435" class="imagecache imagecache-story_carousel"/></a></div><div class="f-credit">courtesy Super Savari Expres</div><div class="f-caption">The Super Savari Express, started in December, strives to show a part of Karachi to Karachiites who would not brave the city by themselves.</div></div><div class="show-image-10486" style="display:none"><div class="f-image"><a rel="lightbox[lightbox_full_image][The Super Savari Express, started in December, strives to show a part of Karachi to Karachiites who would not brave the city by themselves.<br /><br /><a class="lb-credit"> courtesy Super Savari Expres</a>]" title="The Super Savari Express, started in December, strives to show a part of Karachi to Karachiites who would not brave the city by themselves." href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/imagecache/lightbox_full_image/domestic-tourism_courtesy-super-savari-express_the-caravan-magazine_july2015_02.jpg"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/imagecache/story_carousel/domestic-tourism_courtesy-super-savari-express_the-caravan-magazine_july2015_02.jpg" alt="" title="" width="653" height="435" class="imagecache imagecache-story_carousel"/></a></div><div class="f-credit">courtesy Super Savari Expres</div><div class="f-caption">The Super Savari Express, started in December, strives to show a part of Karachi to Karachiites who would not brave the city by themselves.</div></div></div> <div class="share-with"> <span class="st_facebook_hcount" displaytext="Facebook"></span> <span class="st_twitter_hcount" displaytext="Tweet"></span>  <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707js_/https://apis.google.com/js/plusone.js"></script>  <g:plusone href="http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/domestic-tourism-pakistan-super-savari-express"></g:plusone> <div class="print-email"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/print/5450">Print</a>|<a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/printmail/5450">E-Mail</a>|</div><a href="javascript:void(0);"><div class="single-page">Single Page</div><div class="multipage">Multiple Page</div></a></div> <script type="text/javascript">var switchTo5x=false;</script> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707js_/http://w.sharethis.com/button/buttons.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript">stLight.options({publisher:'8014eb0d-feae-4f08-9056-b8b78a153569'});</script> <div class="fullpage-body"><div class="detailBody"><div class="view view-story-page-views view-id-story_page_views view-display-id-block_1 view-dom-id-1"> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first views-row-last"> <div class="views-field-body"> <div class="field-content"><p class="rtejustify"><strong>EARLY ON A SUNDAY MORNING</strong><strong> IN MARCH,</strong> a bus stood parked near the Karachi Gymkhana, close to the city centre. It sported the signature kitsch of the city’s public buses—kaleidoscopic paintwork, Urdu couplets, chintzy decals. Close by, a knot of men tucked into parathas at a tea stall, and a stray dog went at a plastic bag. Some 40 people gradually congregated and began to board, using a plastic crate as a makeshift step. They took pictures of themselves, and of each other, incessantly. Inside, one young man asked people to raise their hands if this was their first time on a bus in Karachi. Almost everyone did.</p> <p class="rtejustify">Karachi’s buses are a cardinal part of its cityscape, and vast numbers of its 24 million residents rely on them for transport all across this megalopolis. Not so, however, for the city’s elite, who have for years derided and avoided public buses and the bulk of the areas they serve. Karachi is famously unsafe—extortion, political assassination, kidnapping, militancy, gang warfare and sectarian murder are all common—and the buses are ramshackle, overfull and grimy, with female passengers squeezing onto a dozen or so seats reserved for them, trying to avoid the groping hands of men. Now, a new company hopes to take rich Karachiites out of the handful of neighbourhoods where they live and show them, onboard a bus, parts of the city they don’t dare brave themselves. But the fact that wealthy Karachiites are such strangers to the city they call home says much about its history, and the nature of its present development.</p> <p class="rtejustify">Every Sunday, the Super Savari Express welcomes aboard anyone willing to pay 2,000 Pakistani rupees—roughly $20. Tourists join in, but the organisers pointedly target young people from the city itself. The itinerary varies every weekend, and Super Savari also sporadically runs a cuisine tour on weekday evenings. Since the tours launched in December, they have been praised by the media and by passengers—Instagram has hundreds of glowing photos tagged #superkarachiexpress—and now come with a wait list. On the Sunday I joined in, we headed out on a six-hour tour of Saddar, Karachi’s crumbling and eclectic city centre, which contains everything from crowded new flats to historical colonial buildings, and even a market selling exotic animals and kidnapped pets.</p> <p class="rtejustify">Our tour group consisted mostly of 20-something-year-old Karachi hipsters, several of them aspiring artists, with a smattering of others coming along: a local architect, a middle-aged Pakistani-American couple, a consultant visiting from London. Despite the early hour, there was no lack of accessorising or blowout hairdos. Also onboard, standing out in a pair of fluorescent Peshawari sandals, was Atif bin Arif, who co-founded the tours with his friend Bilal Hassan. The two had planned our route through Saddar, which Arif described to me as a “mosaic of cultures.”</p> <p class="rtejustify">The area’s heterogeneity traces back to before Pakistan’s independence, in 1947. Arif Hasan, a noted urban planner and architect who has long chronicled Saddar’s evolution, has written of its pre-independence guise—a neighbourhood where Hindu, Zoroastrian and Goan communities all developed businesses alongside their British rulers. After Partition, refugees flocked to Saddar and adjoining neighbourhoods, increasing their population by over 400 percent. But even so, Saddar remained a place where the “wives of government officials and foreign diplomats went shopping for their provisions.” By the 1980s, however, all that was gone. “Saddar’s old institutions are no more,” Hasan laments in an article from 1986. “The city’s cultural centre is dead, clogged up with traffic, pollution and commercialisation.” In present-day Karachi, Saddar functions mainly as a transit hub, a place where you go in order to get elsewhere. But traces of its old glory remain.</p> <p class="rtejustify">Our first stop was on Zaibunnisa Street: one of Saddar’s main roads, formerly Elphinstone Street but renamed after Zaib-un-Nissa Hamidullah, a pioneering female journalist, in 1970. One woman ran into the middle of the road to pose for a photograph, arms outstretched—a feat only possible in the early hours of a Sunday, since for the rest of the week the road is surrendered to vehicles. One of our two teenaged, English-speaking guides spieled that, in colonial times, this was the “Piccadilly of Karachi.” Nostalgia is a large part of Saddar’s draw for Karachi’s upper classes. Until 1977, before the government banned the general sale of alcohol, the area boasted a thriving nightlife. At a later stop on Club Road, the guides explained that the thoroughfare got its name from the large number of clubs once on it—enough for it to also earn the name of Scandal Point.</p>  <p class="rtejustify">We got off on Zaibunissa Street to take photographs before the Mohamedali Building, a looming colonial-era landmark. Behind shutters covered in graffiti, the structure sheltered bank branches and shoe stores that were pale shadows of the exclusive establishments it once hosted. Times are difficult for those still doing business here, as extortionists run unchecked. On the pavement outside, I got to chatting with Amtul Baweja, who looked much younger than her 23 years of age. It was her second time on the Super Savari Express. “I learned so much about the city,” she said of her first tour. Saddar was new ground for her. “I’ve been to Zainab Market a lot,” she said, referring to a nearby plaza famous for selling export-reject denim. “That’s in Saddar, right?” Beyond that, she’d never had reason to come to the area. “I didn’t even know there was anything worth seeing here,” she said.</p> <p class="rtejustify">After climbing back onboard, we made our way through streets strewn with garbage to the Kutchi Memon Masjid, built in 1893 by an eponymous ethnic group originally from Kutch, in modern-day Gujarat. The compact building, with elaborate façade details painted in green and red, slotted in beside its neighbours as neatly as a Lego piece. It is a far cry from the expansive mosque complexes now fashionable in Pakistan. A flyer inside advertised a religious sermon geared specifically towards traders, who throng the mosque and the neighbourhood. Arif told me that the tour was meant to emphasise “the richness of culture, diversity and religion which really does coexist in harmony if you look beyond the sectarian violence and all of that.” The idea, he said, was to give Karachiites “a sense of liberation and pride.”</p> <p class="rtejustify">But where Arif sees cause for pride, others see only desolate reminders of a collective spirit long lost. Roland DeSouza, an executive member of Shehri, a non-profit working to stem Karachi’s environmental and social decline, questioned if there was anything left of the city’s history worth seeing. He had read of the Super Savari tours, he told me over the phone in May, and considered them a good thing, “but what people will see out there is nothing like it was.” He mourned “a vibrant, pluralistic culture, which doesn’t exist in Pakistan anymore.”</p> <p class="rtejustify">When I visited Talat Aslam, a senior editor at the daily <em>The News</em> who has lived in Saddar for over 20 years, he pointed out that modern-day Karachi is characterised by the “ghettoisation of the rich.” The city’s elite lives in a few self-contained areas—most famously Clifton and Defence—with their own markets, cinemas, cafes, and home-delivery services for bootleg alcohol, tiramisu and more. “I’m not romanticising this,” Aslam told me, sitting in his unadorned office in Karachi’s financial and media district in April, “but there were once public spaces in Karachi where the rich, poor, middle-class could somehow mingle—educational institutions, cinema halls, shopping.” But the generation that grew up with such heterogeneity “has been replaced by a group of people that only meets and shops with its own kind.” Aslam said the city has seen the “end of public spaces,” which has exoticised places such as Saddar in the minds of the rich. On either side of the socio-economic divide now, “people don’t even know what the rest of the town is doing.”</p> <p class="rtejustify">The tour wound on. We stopped at Karachi’s main fire temple, the H J Behrana Parsi Dar-e-Mehr, built in 1848 and the spiritual centre of a Zoroastrian community now down to less than 2,000 members. Its pale yellow walls gleamed in the sun, almost unstained by the city’s grime. The place is off limits to non-Zoroastrians, so our group milled around outside the gate, taking pictures. Fazal Rizvi, a 28-year-old artist, stood nearby, having drifted off from the crowd. Rizvi knew Saddar better than most others on the tour: until recently, he used to switch buses here every day to get to college. He didn’t look pleased. “I think for most people here the excitement is about the bus,” he said. “It’s a novelty.”</p> <p class="rtejustify">We walked on to the Sunday-morning fabric sale at Bohri Bazaar, to photograph traders unfurling cotton and voile with flowery prints, and food vendors tossing raw puris into hot oil. As we walked, almost no one on the tour spoke with anyone we met on the street. We stopped at the quiet, imposing Taheri Masjid, holy to the Dawoodi Bohras, a Shia sect. Arif advised us to make use of the mosque’s clean lavatories.</p> <div style="page-break-after: always;"> <span style="display: none;"> </span></div> <p class="rtejustify">We got on the bus again, and some young passengers climbed up to the roof. A short drive later, the bus parked in front of the 166-year-old Shri Swaminarayan Temple, on Muhammad Ali Jinnah Road, which served as a refuge for Hindus during Partition. The guides warned that photography was prohibited, setting off grumbling and groans. We followed the sound of a blaring bhajan into a courtyard surrounded by Hindu homes. A priest pointed out statues of Radha and Krishna in the temple. Devotes walked around us, trying to ignore the strangers in their midst. Marco Pezzotta, a visiting Italian artist, lit a cigarette in the courtyard. “I’m not really enjoying this,” he told me, puffing away. “Because of the feeling you get—occupying the places. It feels like a safari.”</p> <p class="rtejustify">A few stops on, we arrived for a late breakfast of tea and parathas at Jahangir Restaurant, down the road from Bohri Bazaar. People gushed loudly about having discovered the area, though of course not everyone on the tour was giddy with delight. But Pezzotta, Rizvi and their ilk held their peace. Rizvi, I noted, was particularly subdued. Earlier, at the fire temple, he had observed that the whole excursion was as much a presentation of Karachis’ cloistered elite to the rest of the city as it was vice versa. Who, he wondered, was out to see who? “Is this a spectacle?” he had said. “Are <em>we </em>becoming the spectacle?”</p></div> </div> <div class="views-field-phpcode"> <span class="field-content"><div class="shortbioview"><p><strong>Saba Imtiaz</strong> is a journalist based in Pakistan. Her writing has appeared in the <em>New York Times</em>, the <em>Guardian</em> and the <em>Christian Science Monitor</em>. She is the author of <em>Karachi, You’re Killing Me!</em> and the forthcoming <em>No Team of Angels</em>. </p> </div></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div></div><div class="detail-body"><div class="detailBody"><div id="paging-pager-5450" class="paging-pager-contents"><p class="rtejustify"><strong>EARLY ON A SUNDAY MORNING</strong><strong> IN MARCH,</strong> a bus stood parked near the Karachi Gymkhana, close to the city centre. It sported the signature kitsch of the city’s public buses—kaleidoscopic paintwork, Urdu couplets, chintzy decals. Close by, a knot of men tucked into parathas at a tea stall, and a stray dog went at a plastic bag. Some 40 people gradually congregated and began to board, using a plastic crate as a makeshift step. They took pictures of themselves, and of each other, incessantly. Inside, one young man asked people to raise their hands if this was their first time on a bus in Karachi. Almost everyone did.</p> <p class="rtejustify">Karachi’s buses are a cardinal part of its cityscape, and vast numbers of its 24 million residents rely on them for transport all across this megalopolis. Not so, however, for the city’s elite, who have for years derided and avoided public buses and the bulk of the areas they serve. Karachi is famously unsafe—extortion, political assassination, kidnapping, militancy, gang warfare and sectarian murder are all common—and the buses are ramshackle, overfull and grimy, with female passengers squeezing onto a dozen or so seats reserved for them, trying to avoid the groping hands of men. Now, a new company hopes to take rich Karachiites out of the handful of neighbourhoods where they live and show them, onboard a bus, parts of the city they don’t dare brave themselves. But the fact that wealthy Karachiites are such strangers to the city they call home says much about its history, and the nature of its present development.</p> <p class="rtejustify">Every Sunday, the Super Savari Express welcomes aboard anyone willing to pay 2,000 Pakistani rupees—roughly $20. Tourists join in, but the organisers pointedly target young people from the city itself. The itinerary varies every weekend, and Super Savari also sporadically runs a cuisine tour on weekday evenings. Since the tours launched in December, they have been praised by the media and by passengers—Instagram has hundreds of glowing photos tagged #superkarachiexpress—and now come with a wait list. On the Sunday I joined in, we headed out on a six-hour tour of Saddar, Karachi’s crumbling and eclectic city centre, which contains everything from crowded new flats to historical colonial buildings, and even a market selling exotic animals and kidnapped pets.</p> <p class="rtejustify">Our tour group consisted mostly of 20-something-year-old Karachi hipsters, several of them aspiring artists, with a smattering of others coming along: a local architect, a middle-aged Pakistani-American couple, a consultant visiting from London. Despite the early hour, there was no lack of accessorising or blowout hairdos. Also onboard, standing out in a pair of fluorescent Peshawari sandals, was Atif bin Arif, who co-founded the tours with his friend Bilal Hassan. The two had planned our route through Saddar, which Arif described to me as a “mosaic of cultures.”</p> <p class="rtejustify">The area’s heterogeneity traces back to before Pakistan’s independence, in 1947. Arif Hasan, a noted urban planner and architect who has long chronicled Saddar’s evolution, has written of its pre-independence guise—a neighbourhood where Hindu, Zoroastrian and Goan communities all developed businesses alongside their British rulers. After Partition, refugees flocked to Saddar and adjoining neighbourhoods, increasing their population by over 400 percent. But even so, Saddar remained a place where the “wives of government officials and foreign diplomats went shopping for their provisions.” By the 1980s, however, all that was gone. “Saddar’s old institutions are no more,” Hasan laments in an article from 1986. “The city’s cultural centre is dead, clogged up with traffic, pollution and commercialisation.” In present-day Karachi, Saddar functions mainly as a transit hub, a place where you go in order to get elsewhere. But traces of its old glory remain.</p> <p class="rtejustify">Our first stop was on Zaibunnisa Street: one of Saddar’s main roads, formerly Elphinstone Street but renamed after Zaib-un-Nissa Hamidullah, a pioneering female journalist, in 1970. One woman ran into the middle of the road to pose for a photograph, arms outstretched—a feat only possible in the early hours of a Sunday, since for the rest of the week the road is surrendered to vehicles. One of our two teenaged, English-speaking guides spieled that, in colonial times, this was the “Piccadilly of Karachi.” Nostalgia is a large part of Saddar’s draw for Karachi’s upper classes. Until 1977, before the government banned the general sale of alcohol, the area boasted a thriving nightlife. At a later stop on Club Road, the guides explained that the thoroughfare got its name from the large number of clubs once on it—enough for it to also earn the name of Scandal Point.</p> </div></div><div class="paging"><div class="links"><div class="go-to-page">Go to Page: </div><div class="item-list"><ul class="pager"><li class="pager-current first">1</li> <li class="pager-item"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/domestic-tourism-pakistan-super-savari-express?page=0,1" title="Go to page 2" class="active">2</a></li> <li class="pager-next"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/domestic-tourism-pakistan-super-savari-express?page=0,1" title="Go to next page" class="active">next ›</a></li> <li class="pager-last last"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/domestic-tourism-pakistan-super-savari-express?page=0,1" title="Go to last page" class="active">last »</a></li> </ul></div></div></div></div> <div class="text-size-bottom"> <div class="views-as">View as</div> <a href="javascript:void(0);"><div class="single-page">Single Page</div><div class="multipage">Multiple Page</div></a></div> <div class="story-tags"> <div class="story-block1"><div class="view view-story-related-tag view-id-story_related_tag view-display-id-block_1 view-dom-id-1"> <div class="view-header"> <h3 class="subject-heading">More From This Section</h3> </div> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/germany-searching-shelter-asylum-germany">Germany | Searching for Shelter</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-2 views-row-even"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/over-troubled-water-united-states">Over Troubled Water | The United States</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-3 views-row-odd"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/france-wages-truth-whistleblowers-Europe">France | The Wages of Truth</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-4 views-row-even"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/south-africa-words-prophet">South Africa | Words of the Prophet</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-5 views-row-odd"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/scotland-independent-will">Scotland | Independent Will</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-6 views-row-even views-row-last"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/nepal-hindu-right-kingdom-come">Nepal | Kingdom Come</a></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="story-block3"></div> <div class="story-block2"><div class="view view-story-related-tag view-id-story_related_tag view-display-id-block_2 view-dom-id-2"> <div class="view-header"> <h3 class="subject-heading">Keywords</h3> </div> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first views-row-last"> <div class="views-field-tid"> <span class="field-content"></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="comment_count">READER'S COMMENTS [0]</div><script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707js_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/all/themes/caravanmag/js/floating-script.js" type="text/javascript"></script> <div id="comments"> <div class="box"> <h2>Leave comment</h2> <div class="content"><div id="comment-preview"></div><form action="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/comment/reply/5450" accept-charset="UTF-8" method="post" id="comment-form"> <div><div class="form-item" id="edit-name-1-wrapper"> <label for="edit-name-1">Name: <span class="form-required" title="This field is required.">*</span></label> <input type="text" maxlength="60" name="name" id="edit-name-1" size="30" value="" class="form-text required"/> </div> <div class="form-item" id="edit-mail-wrapper"> <label for="edit-mail">Email: <span class="form-required" title="This field is required.">*</span></label> <input type="text" maxlength="64" name="mail" id="edit-mail" size="30" value="" class="form-text required"/> <div class="description"><div class="Email-desc">email addresses will not be disclosed</div></div> </div> <div class="form-item" id="edit-homepage-wrapper"> <label for="edit-homepage">Homepage: </label> <input type="text" maxlength="255" name="homepage" id="edit-homepage" size="30" value="" class="form-text"/> </div> <div class="form-item" id="edit-comment-wrapper"> <label for="edit-comment">Comment: <span class="form-required" title="This field is required.">*</span></label> <textarea cols="60" rows="15" name="comment" id="edit-comment" class="form-textarea resizable required"></textarea> </div> <ul class="tips"><li>Use <em></em> to create page breaks.</li></ul><p><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/filter/tips">More information about formatting options</a></p><input type="hidden" name="pid" id="edit-pid" value=""/> <input type="hidden" name="form_build_id" id="form-TPaqBcukMZkrU7vk-13JUOjeAl8dR13pnx4_dbpainA" value="form-TPaqBcukMZkrU7vk-13JUOjeAl8dR13pnx4_dbpainA"/> <input type="hidden" name="form_id" id="edit-comment-form" value="comment_form"/> <fieldset class="captcha"><legend>CAPTCHA</legend><div class="description">This question is for testing whether you are a human visitor and to prevent automated spam submissions.</div><input type="hidden" name="captcha_sid" id="edit-captcha-sid" value="20600890"/> <input type="hidden" name="captcha_token" id="edit-captcha-token" value="f44a484d9eb40cf75ad5f5174c9b9003"/> <img src="/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/image_captcha/20600890/1438841826" class="captcha_image" id="captcha_image_20600890" alt="Image CAPTCHA" title="Image CAPTCHA"/><div class="form-item" id="edit-captcha-response-wrapper"> <label for="edit-captcha-response">What code is in the image?: <span class="form-required" title="This field is required.">*</span></label> <input type="text" maxlength="128" name="captcha_response" id="edit-captcha-response" size="15" value="" class="form-text required"/> <div class="description">Enter the characters shown in the image.</div> </div> </fieldset> <input type="submit" name="op" id="ajax-comments-submit" value="Save" class="form-submit"/> </div></form> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div></div></div></div>  <div id="sidebar-right" class="sidebar"> <div id="block-block-18" class="clear-block block block-block"> <div class="content"><script async src="//web.archive.org/web/20150806061707js_/http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>  <ins class="adsbygoogle" style="display:inline-block;width:250px;height:250px" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1059364442115504" data-ad-slot="7733571338"></ins> <script> (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script></div> </div> <div id="block-block-19" class="clear-block block block-block"> <div class="content"><script async src="//web.archive.org/web/20150806061707js_/http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>  <ins class="adsbygoogle" style="display:inline-block;width:250px;height:250px" data-ad-client="ca-pub-1059364442115504" data-ad-slot="1687037738"></ins> <script> (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script> </div> </div> <div id="block-views-story_datails-block_6" class="clear-block block block-views"> <h2><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reporting-and-essays/reportage" class="block-title-link">REPORTAGE</a></h2> <div class="content"><div class="view view-story-datails view-id-story_datails view-display-id-block_6 view-dom-id-2"> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first views-row-last"> <div class="views-field-field-story-include-fid"> <div class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reportage/doing-needful-essar-industry-influence"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/imagecache/story_details_right/doing-the-needful_the-caravan-magazine_august-2015_01.jpg" alt="" title="" width="65" height="44" class="imagecache imagecache-story_details_right imagecache-default imagecache-story_details_right_default"/></a></div> </div> <div class="views-field-phpcode-1"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/opinions/reportage">Reportage</a></span> </div> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reportage/doing-needful-essar-industry-influence">Doing the Needful</a></span> </div> <div class="views-field-field-story-dop-value"> <span class="field-content"><div class="story-created">By <span class="by"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/profile/66">KRISHN KAUSHIK</a></span> | <span class="date-display-single">1 August 2015</span></div></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div id="block-views-story_datails-block_1" class="clear-block block block-views"> <h2><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/opinions" class="block-title-link">OPINIONS</a></h2> <div class="content"><div class="view view-story-datails view-id-story_datails view-display-id-block_1 view-dom-id-3"> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first views-row-last"> <div class="views-field-field-story-include-fid"> <div class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/perspectives/blinkered-justice-aseemanand-hindu-terror"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/imagecache/story_details_right/blinkered-justice_photo-by-vivek-singh_the-caravan-magazine_august-2015_01.jpg" alt="" title="" width="65" height="44" class="imagecache imagecache-story_details_right imagecache-default imagecache-story_details_right_default"/></a></div> </div> <div class="views-field-phpcode-1"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/opinions/perspectives">Perspectives</a></span> </div> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/perspectives/blinkered-justice-aseemanand-hindu-terror">Blinkered Justice</a></span> </div> <div class="views-field-field-story-dop-value"> <span class="field-content"><div class="story-created">By <span class="by"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/profile/369">LEENA GITA REGHUNATH</a></span> | <span class="date-display-single">1 August 2015</span></div></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div id="block-views-story_datails-block_7" class="clear-block block block-views"> <h2><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/vantage" class="block-title-link">VANTAGE</a></h2> <div class="content"><div class="view view-story-datails view-id-story_datails view-display-id-block_7 view-dom-id-4"> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first views-row-last"> <div class="views-field-field-blog-feature-fid-2"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/blog/what-bjp-manifesto-doesn%E2%80%99t-say"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/imagecache/story_details_right/bjp_manifesto_0.jpg" alt="" title="" width="65" height="44" class="imagecache imagecache-story_details_right imagecache-default imagecache-story_details_right_default"/></a></span> </div> <div class="views-field-phpcode-1"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/vantage">Vantage</a></span> </div> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/blog/what-bjp-manifesto-doesn%E2%80%99t-say">What the BJP Manifesto Doesn’t Say</a></span> </div> <div class="views-field-field-story-dop-value"> <span class="field-content"></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div id="block-views-story_datails-block_2" class="clear-block block block-views"> <h2><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/fiction-poetry" class="block-title-link">FICTION</a></h2> <div class="content"><div class="view view-story-datails view-id-story_datails view-display-id-block_2 view-dom-id-5"> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first views-row-last"> <div class="views-field-field-story-include-fid"> <div class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/fiction-poetry/hyena-stories"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/imagecache/story_details_right/fiction_3.jpg" alt="" title="" width="65" height="44" class="imagecache imagecache-story_details_right imagecache-default imagecache-story_details_right_default"/></a></div> </div> <div class="views-field-phpcode-1"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/fiction-poetry">Fiction & Poetry</a></span> </div> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/fiction-poetry/hyena-stories">The Hyena Stories</a></span> </div> <div class="views-field-field-story-dop-value"> <span class="field-content"><div class="story-created">By <span class="by"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/profile/494">Sayyid Muhammad Ashraf</a></span> | <span class="date-display-single">1 April 2013</span></div></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div id="block-views-story_datails-block_3" class="clear-block block block-views"> <h2><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/books" class="block-title-link">BOOKS</a></h2> <div class="content"><div class="view view-story-datails view-id-story_datails view-display-id-block_3 view-dom-id-6"> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first views-row-last"> <div class="views-field-field-story-include-fid"> <div class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/books/colonial-divisions-India-role-second-world-war"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/imagecache/story_details_right/yasmin-khan.jpg" alt="" title="" width="65" height="44" class="imagecache imagecache-story_details_right imagecache-default imagecache-story_details_right_default"/></a></div> </div> <div class="views-field-phpcode-1"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/books">Books</a></span> </div> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/books/colonial-divisions-India-role-second-world-war">Colonial Divisions</a></span> </div> <div class="views-field-field-story-dop-value"> <span class="field-content"><div class="story-created">By <span class="by"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/profile/500">OMAR WARAICH</a></span> | <span class="date-display-single">1 August 2015</span></div></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div id="block-views-story_datails-block_4" class="clear-block block block-views"> <h2><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/arts" class="block-title-link">ARTS</a></h2> <div class="content"><div class="view view-story-datails view-id-story_datails view-display-id-block_4 view-dom-id-7"> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first views-row-last"> <div class="views-field-field-story-include-fid"> <div class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/arts/passage-shimla"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/imagecache/story_details_right/a-passage-to-shimla_the-caravan-magazine_may-2015_01.jpg" alt="" title="" width="65" height="44" class="imagecache imagecache-story_details_right imagecache-default imagecache-story_details_right_default"/></a></div> </div> <div class="views-field-phpcode-1"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/arts">Arts</a></span> </div> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/arts/passage-shimla">A Passage to Shimla</a></span> </div> <div class="views-field-field-story-dop-value"> <span class="field-content"><div class="story-created">By <span class="by"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/profile/811">Manik Sharma</a></span> | <span class="date-display-single">1 May 2015</span></div></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div id="block-quicktabs-comment" class="clear-block block block-quicktabs"> <div class="content"><div id="quicktabs-comment" class="quicktabs_wrapper quicktabs-style-sky"><ul class="quicktabs_tabs quicktabs-style-sky"><li class="qtab-0 active first"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/domestic-tourism-pakistan-super-savari-express?quicktabs_comment=0#quicktabs-comment" id="quicktabs-tab-comment-0" class="qt_tab active">MOST READ</a></li><li class="qtab-1 last"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/domestic-tourism-pakistan-super-savari-express?quicktabs_comment=1#quicktabs-comment" id="quicktabs-tab-comment-1" class="qt_tab active">MOST COMMENTED</a></li></ul><div id="quicktabs_container_comment" class="quicktabs_main quicktabs-style-sky"><div id="quicktabs_tabpage_comment_0" class="quicktabs_tabpage"><div id="block-views-most_read-block_1" class="clear-block block block-views"> <div class="content"><div class="view view-most-read view-id-most_read view-display-id-block_1 view-dom-id-8"> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/lede/sensitive-touch-india-braille-monthly-white-print">Sensitive Touch</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-2 views-row-even"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/lede/foreign-returned-kumaon-stories-russian">Foreign-Returned</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-3 views-row-odd"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/lede/past-post-aslam-kader-vasant-shinde-rival-jockeys">Past the Post</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-4 views-row-even"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/over-troubled-water-united-states">Over Troubled Water | The United States</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-5 views-row-odd"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/letters/domestic-tourism-pakistan-super-savari-express" class="active">Domestic Tourism | Pakistan</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-6 views-row-even views-row-last"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/perspectives/majority-rule-BJP">Majority Rule</a></span> </div> </div> </div> <div class="view-footer"> <span style="margin-top: 15px;"></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div><div id="quicktabs_tabpage_comment_1" class="quicktabs_tabpage quicktabs-hide"><div id="block-views-most_read-block_2" class="clear-block block block-views"> <div class="content"><div class="view view-most-read view-id-most_read view-display-id-block_2 view-dom-id-9"> <div class="view-content"> <div class="views-row views-row-1 views-row-odd views-row-first"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/essay/upon-this-rock-ashoka-edicts">Upon This Rock</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-2 views-row-even"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/perspectives/other-house-legislative-councils">The Other House</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-3 views-row-odd"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/lede/sensitive-touch-india-braille-monthly-white-print">Sensitive Touch</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-4 views-row-even"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/showcase/fifth-elephant-conference">THE FIFTH ELEPHANT (CONFERENCE)</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-5 views-row-odd"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reportage/battle-bihar-jitan-ram-manjhi-caste-politics">The Battle for Bihar</a></span> </div> </div> <div class="views-row views-row-6 views-row-even views-row-last"> <div class="views-field-title"> <span class="field-content"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/showcase/aha-children%E2%80%99s-theatre-festival-theatre">AHA! CHILDREN’S THEATRE FESTIVAL (THEATRE)</a></span> </div> </div> </div> <div class="view-footer"> <span style="margin-top: 15px;"></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div></div></div></div> </div> <div id="block-block-17" class="clear-block block block-block"> <div class="content"><div id="follow-us-on" class="clearfix"> <div class="title-follow"><h2><a class="block-title-link" href="#">Follow us on</a></h2></div> <div class="follow-facebook"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.facebook.com/TheCaravanMagazine" target="_blank"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://w.sharethis.com/images/facebook_32.png"/></a></div> <div class="follow-twitter"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://twitter.com/thecaravanindia" target="_blank"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://w.sharethis.com/images/twitter_32.png"/> </a></div> <div class="follow-youtube"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.youtube.com/user/TheCaravanMagazine" target="_blank"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://w.sharethis.com/images/youtube_32.png"/> </a></div> <div class="follow-gplus"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/https://plus.google.com/+CaravanmagazineIndia/posts" target="_blank"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://w.sharethis.com/images/googleplus_32.png"/> </a></div> </div></div> </div> <div id="block-block-1" class="clear-block block block-block"> <h2><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.facebook.com/TheCaravanMagazine" class="block-title-link">Facebook</a></h2> <div class="content"><script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707js_/http://connect.facebook.net/en_US/all.js#xfbml=1"></script> <p> <fb:recommendations border_color="" font="" header="false" height="300" site="http://www.caravanmagazine.in" width="227"></fb:recommendations></p> <div id="fb-root">  </div></div> </div> <div id="block-block-3" class="clear-block block block-block"> <h2><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://twitter.com/thecaravanindia" class="block-title-link"></a></h2> <div class="content"> <a class="twitter-timeline" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/https://twitter.com/search?q=%23TheCaravanIndia+OR+%40TheCaravanIndia+OR+TheCaravanIndia" data-widget-id="346168516992462848">TWITTER</a> <script>!function(d,s,id){var js,fjs=d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0],p=/^http:/.test(d.location)?'http':'https';if(!d.getElementById(id)){js=d.createElement(s);js.id=id;js.src=p+"://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js";fjs.parentNode.insertBefore(js,fjs);}}(document,"script","twitter-wjs");</script> </div> </div> <div id="block-block-16" class="clear-block block block-block"> <div class="content"><div id="digital-subscriptions" class="digital-subscriptions clearfix"> <div class="digi-container"> <div class="digi-title"><h2><a class="block-title-link" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/digital-subscriptions">Digital subscription at</a></h2></div> <div class="digi-image"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://estore.delhipress.in/The-Caravan" target="_blank"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/digital-subs/digi-image.jpg" border="0"/></a></div> <div class="magzter"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.magzter.com/IN/Delhi-Press/The-Caravan/News/" target="_blank"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/digital-subs/magzter.gif" border="0"/></a></div><div class="zinio"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://in.zinio.com/www/browse/product.jsp;jsessionid=BF68C5AC754A20EFFA79A22425B4B358.ns102a?productId=500601146" target="_blank"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/digital-subs/zinio.gif" border="0"/></a></div><div class="readwhere"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.readwhere.com/publication/5326/The-Caravan?utm_source=readwhere&utm_medium=autosuggest&utm_campaign=autosuggest&utm_content=carava" target="_blank"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/digital-subs/readwhere.gif" border="0"/></a></div> </div> </div></div> </div> <div id="block-views-adds-block_7" class="clear-block block block-views"> <div class="content"><div class="view view-adds view-id-adds view-display-id-block_7 view-dom-id-12"> <div class="view-content"> <div id="views_slideshow_singleframe_main_adds-block_7" class="views_slideshow_singleframe_main views_slideshow_main"><div id="views_slideshow_singleframe_teaser_section_adds-block_7" class="views_slideshow_singleframe_teaser_section"><div class="views_slideshow_singleframe_slide views_slideshow_slide views-row-1 views-row-odd" id="views_slideshow_singleframe_div_adds-block_7_0"><div class="views-row views-row-0 views-row-first views-row-odd"> <div class="views-field-nothing"> <span class="field-content"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://delhipress.in/The-Caravan" target="_blank"><img class="imagefield imagefield-field_images" width="250" height="250" alt="" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/himal-caravan-web-banner1.jpg?1436353750"/></a></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div id="block-views-adds-block_8" class="clear-block block block-views"> <div class="content"><div class="view view-adds view-id-adds view-display-id-block_8 view-dom-id-13"> <div class="view-content"> <div id="views_slideshow_singleframe_main_adds-block_8" class="views_slideshow_singleframe_main views_slideshow_main"><div id="views_slideshow_singleframe_teaser_section_adds-block_8" class="views_slideshow_singleframe_teaser_section"><div class="views_slideshow_singleframe_slide views_slideshow_slide views-row-1 views-row-odd" id="views_slideshow_singleframe_div_adds-block_8_0"><div class="views-row views-row-0 views-row-first views-row-odd"> <div class="views-field-nothing"> <span class="field-content"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/caravan-quarters" target="_blank"><img class="imagefield imagefield-field_images" width="253" height="322" alt="" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/cq-add.gif?1427191995"/></a></span> </div> </div> </div> <div class="views_slideshow_singleframe_slide views_slideshow_slide views-row-2 views_slideshow_singleframe_hidden views-row-even" id="views_slideshow_singleframe_div_adds-block_8_1"><div class="views-row views-row-0 views-row-first views-row-odd"> <div class="views-field-nothing"> <span class="field-content"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.delhipress.in/Magazine.aspx?id=13" target="_blank"><img class="imagefield imagefield-field_images" width="250" height="322" alt="" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/default/files/subscribe.gif?1436353620"/></a></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div>  </div>  <div id="footer-wrapper"> <div id="footer_menu" class="footer-menu"> <div class="footer-left-menu"> <a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/" title="Home" rel="home" id="logo-footer"> <img style="width: 181px; height: 50px; margin-bottom: 2px;" src="/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/all/themes/caravanmag/logo.png" alt="Home"/> </a> <div class="footer-copy"> Copyright © 2015 <a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/" title="Home" rel="home" id="home-link">The Caravan</a>. All rights reserved<br> </div> <div class="disclaimer"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/terms-service">Terms of Service</a></div> <div class="privacy"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/privacy-policy">Privacy Policy</a></div> </div> <div class="footer-right-menu"> <div class="footer-footer-menu"> <div class="footer-about-us"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/about-us">About Us</a></div> <div class="footer-masthead"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/masthead">Masthead</a></div> <div class="footer-submissions"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/submissions">Submissions</a></div> <div class="footer-copyright"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/copyright-policy">Copyright Policy</a></div> <div class="footer-careers"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/careers">Careers</a></div> <div class="footer-contact-us"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/contact-us">Contact Us</a></div> <div class="footer-about-us"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/stores/delhi-ncr">Store Locator</a></div> </div> <div class="footer-social">Follow us on <div class="footer-facebook"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.facebook.com/TheCaravanMagazine">Facebook</a></div> <div class="twitter"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://twitter.com/thecaravanindia">Twitter</a></div> <div class="youtube"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.youtube.com/user/TheCaravanMagazine">YouTube</a></div> <br/><div class="footer-rss"><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/storyfeed.xml"><img src="/web/20150806061707im_/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/sites/all/themes/caravanmag/images/rss.jpg"/>Rss</a></div> </div> <div class="footer-pri-menu"><div class="menu-block-1 menu-name-primary-links parent-mlid-0 menu-level-1"> <ul class="menu"><li class="leaf first menu-mlid-2290 dhtml-menu "><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/current-issue" title="Current Issue" id="dhtml_menu-2290-1">Current Issue</a></li> <li class="leaf menu-mlid-14829 dhtml-menu "><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/vantage" title="" id="dhtml_menu-14829-1">Vantage</a></li> <li class="leaf menu-mlid-5427 dhtml-menu "><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/archive" title="Archive" id="dhtml_menu-5427-1">Archive</a></li> <li class="leaf menu-mlid-2031 has-children dhtml-menu "><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reporting-and-essays" title="" id="dhtml_menu-2031-1">Reporting & Essays</a></li> <li class="leaf menu-mlid-743 has-children dhtml-menu "><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/opinions" title="Opinions" id="dhtml_menu-743-1">Opinions</a></li> <li class="leaf menu-mlid-744 has-children dhtml-menu "><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/books" title="Books" id="dhtml_menu-744-1">Books</a></li> <li class="leaf menu-mlid-747 has-children dhtml-menu "><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/arts" title="Arts" id="dhtml_menu-747-1">Arts</a></li> <li class="leaf menu-mlid-750 has-children dhtml-menu "><a href="/web/20150806061707/http://www.caravanmagazine.in/fiction-poetry" title="Fiction & Poetry" id="dhtml_menu-750-1">Fiction & Poetry</a></li> <li class="leaf last menu-mlid-751 has-children dhtml-menu "><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://www.delhipress.in/Brand.aspx?id=13" title="Subscribe" id="dhtml_menu-751-1">Subscribe</a></li> </ul></div> </div></div> </div> </div> <script type="text/javascript"> setTimeout(function(){var a=document.createElement("script"); var b=document.getElementsByTagName("script")[0]; a.src=document.location.protocol+"//web.archive.org/web/20150806061707/http://script.crazyegg.com/pages/scripts/0027/3605.js?"+Math.floor(new Date().getTime()/3600000); a.async=true;a.type="text/javascript";b.parentNode.insertBefore(a,b)}, 1); </script> <script type="text/javascript"> <![CDATA[//><!]]> </script> </body> </html>