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Please try again."></div> </div> </aside> </div> </header> </div> <div itemprop="publisher" itemscope itemtype="https://schema.org/Organization"> <meta itemprop="name" content="Telegraph.co.uk"/> <div itemprop="logo" itemscope itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject"> <meta itemprop="url" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/TheTelegraph_portal_black-320-small.png"/> <meta itemprop="width" content="150"/> <meta itemprop="height" content="26"/> </div> </div> <link itemprop="mainEntityOfPage" href="https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2019/11/28/sourdough-storm-bread-tin-shows-true-face-tick-box-britain"/> <meta itemprop="isAccessibleForFree" content="false"/> <div class="article__content js-article"> <div class="js-article-inner"> <div class="hero-area-wrapper"><div class="leadAsset section"> <div class="lead-asset component" itemscope itemtype="https://schema.org/ImageObject" itemprop="image"> <meta content="1278" itemprop="width"/> <meta content="799" itemprop="height"/> <meta itemprop="url" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/food-and-drink/2017/08/17/bread-ahead-sourdough-xlarge_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq7X6VyzhDDWIHt8iEvIltgrBvtnfnIFoQId2o5lve8eo.jpg"/> <div class="component-content"> <figure class="lead-asset__figure"> <span class="lead-asset-image-container"> <img class="responsive lead-asset__image" src="/web/20200214225648im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/food-and-drink/2017/08/17/bread-ahead-sourdough_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq7X6VyzhDDWIHt8iEvIltgrBvtnfnIFoQId2o5lve8eo.jpg?imwidth=450" srcset="/web/20200214225648im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/food-and-drink/2017/08/17/bread-ahead-sourdough_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq7X6VyzhDDWIHt8iEvIltgrBvtnfnIFoQId2o5lve8eo.jpg?imwidth=450 450w, /web/20200214225648im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/food-and-drink/2017/08/17/bread-ahead-sourdough_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq7X6VyzhDDWIHt8iEvIltgrBvtnfnIFoQId2o5lve8eo.jpg?imwidth=900 900w, /web/20200214225648im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/food-and-drink/2017/08/17/bread-ahead-sourdough_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq7X6VyzhDDWIHt8iEvIltgrBvtnfnIFoQId2o5lve8eo.jpg?imwidth=620 620w, /web/20200214225648im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/food-and-drink/2017/08/17/bread-ahead-sourdough_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq7X6VyzhDDWIHt8iEvIltgrBvtnfnIFoQId2o5lve8eo.jpg?imwidth=1240 1240w, /web/20200214225648im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/food-and-drink/2017/08/17/bread-ahead-sourdough_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq7X6VyzhDDWIHt8iEvIltgrBvtnfnIFoQId2o5lve8eo.jpg?imwidth=700 700w, /web/20200214225648im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/food-and-drink/2017/08/17/bread-ahead-sourdough_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq7X6VyzhDDWIHt8iEvIltgrBvtnfnIFoQId2o5lve8eo.jpg?imwidth=1400 1400w" alt="Bread Ahead sourdough" sizes="100vw,(min-width: 480px) 450px,(min-width: 730px) 700px,(min-width: 1008px) 620px"/> </span> <figcaption> <span itemprop="caption" class="lead-asset-caption">Although it takes considerable skill to make a good sourdough, the ingredients could not be simpler. Flour, water, salt</span> </figcaption> </figure> </div> </div> </div> </div> <span id="polar-ad-article-top"></span> <meta itemprop="datePublished" content="2019-11-28T19:26+0000"/> <article itemprop="articleBody" data-js="article-body" data-insert-mobile-adslot> <div class="articleBodyText version-2 section"> <div class="article-body-text component version-2"> <div class="component-content"> <p><span class="m_first-letter m_first-letter--flagged">I</span>t is possible that <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2019/11/27/row-sourfaux-bread-bakers-claim-trademark-plans-will-see-cheat/">the row over the UK Baking Industry Code of Practise for the Labelling of Sourdough Bread and Rolls </a>has passed you by. There have been other things in the news. But it’s worth paying attention to this storm in a bread tin – not just because it may affect what you eat, but because of what it reveals about the processes and pitfalls of regulation.</p> <p>A consortium of five trade bodies – among them the British Sandwich and Food to Go Association and the Association of Baking Ingredients Manufacturers – wants the Government to introduce a new standard definition for sourdough bread. It argues that, although sourdough is <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/food-and-drink/features/The-rise-and-rise-of-sourdough/">enjoying a boom in popularity</a>, “it is not at all certain that the majority of the UK bread-buying public are aware of what sourdough is, how it is produced, or what its typical characteristics should be”.</p> <p>This sounds innocent enough. And such a definition should be easy to draw up. Although it takes considerable skill <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/food-and-drink/features/secret-baking-perfect-sourdough-bread-aheads-famous-doughnuts/">to make a good sourdough</a>, the ingredients could not be simpler. Flour, water, salt. Nothing else. Job done.</p> <p>But the proposed Code is surprisingly bendy. It allows for the addition of yeast (handy for industrial manufacturers, who want their loaves to rise faster than a classically languid sourdough), and for the use of other additives “where space and skills are lacking”. It also lays out guidelines for “sourdough-flavoured” products, with ingredients including “flavourings that may impart sourdough-type acidity”.</p> </div> </div> </div> <div class="dynamicMpu section"> <div id="advert_tmg_dyn_0" class="js-advert advert " data-adtype="dyn_0"></div> </div> <div class="articleBodyText section"> <div class="article-body-text component "> <div class="component-content"> <p><span class="m_first-letter m_first-letter--flagged">I</span>ndependent bakers are, quite rightly, outraged. This isn’t regulation: it is deregulation by stealth. It sets a bar purely so that food manufacturers can limbo under it. It is clearly designed to lend a spurious legitimacy to products – I’m talking to you, Gregg’s Sourdough Chicken Katsu Pasty – that bear no relation to the real thing.</p> <p>It is also, I suspect, a revenge attack. The Real Bread Campaign, which represents artisan bakers, has been lobbying for the introduction of an “Honest Crust Act”. This would introduce a much more stringent set of regulations. “Anything containing an artificial additive,” declares this puritan manifesto, “would not be permitted to include the word bread in its name or marketing.” You can see why the likes of Hovis might panic.</p> </div> </div> </div> <div class="htmlEmbed section"><div class="html-embed component "> <div class="component-content"> <aside id="0568c092-b6e0-4548-9b45-2f76b6e3f72d" data-data-uri="https://particle-api.eip.telegraph.co.uk/particles/0568c092-b6e0-4548-9b45-2f76b6e3f72d" data-html-uri="https://cf-particle-html.eip.telegraph.co.uk/0568c092-b6e0-4548-9b45-2f76b6e3f72d.html" class="tmg-particle puff" data-reg-required="false" data-reg-redirect="" data-sub-required="false" data-sub-redirect="" data-widget-type="puff" data-widget-title="So long, sourdough: why sliced white bread is the latest restaurant trend (yes, really)" data-widget-size="inline" data-widget-static="false" data-expandable="false" data-embeddable="true"><a title="So long, sourdough: why sliced white bread is the latest restaurant trend (yes, really)" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20200214225648/https://cf-particle-html.eip.telegraph.co.uk/0568c092-b6e0-4548-9b45-2f76b6e3f72d.html">So long, sourdough: why sliced white bread is the latest restaurant trend (yes, really)</a></aside><script src="https://web.archive.org/web/20200214225648js_/https://cf.eip.telegraph.co.uk/particle-embed/js/particle.js" defer></script> </div> </div> </div> <div class="articleBodyText section"> <div class="article-body-text component "> <div class="component-content"> <p><span class="m_first-letter m_first-letter--flagged">W</span>hat’s really going on, then, is a floury arms race. Both sides – the independent bakers and the big manufacturers – are trying to kill each other with regulation.</p> <p>Even well-intentioned legislation can be a clumsy weapon. It often has an unexpectedly lowering effect, since people and businesses tend to aim directly at, rather than above, minimum standards. It can also create a false sense of security among consumers, who would otherwise use their eyes and nose and common sense to assess the quality of a product.</p> </div> </div> </div> <div class="dynamicMpu section"> <div id="advert_tmg_dyn_1" class="js-advert advert " data-adtype="dyn_1"></div> </div> <div class="articleBodyText section"> <div class="article-body-text component "> <div class="component-content"> <p><span class="m_first-letter m_first-letter--flagged">F</span>ood manufacturers use all sorts of tricks to override the saner instincts of the consumer. Pastoral-looking green packaging. The words “free from” and “less” sprinkled about lavishly, without meaningful context.</p> <p>All this is just wily marketing. But using government regulation to crush small competitors is another matter. Proponents of the sourdough Code hope deliberately to confuse the consumer, while claiming to protect us. It’s not just the bread that tastes bad: it’s the sheer, audacious cant.</p> </div> </div> </div> </article> <div class="listOfTags section"> <aside class="list-of-tags component "> <div class="js-settings" data-limit="20"></div> <div class="component-content"> <h3 class="list-of-tags__title">Related Topics</h3> <ul class="list-of-tags__list"> <li class="list-of-tags__item" aria-hidden="false"> <a class="list-of-tags__link" href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/baking/">Baking</a> </li> <li class="list-of-tags__item" aria-hidden="false"> <a class="list-of-tags__link" href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/greggs/">Greggs</a> </li> <li class="list-of-tags__item" aria-hidden="false"> <a class="list-of-tags__link" href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/bread-recipes/">Bread recipes</a> </li> <li class="list-of-tags__item" aria-hidden="false"> <a class="list-of-tags__link" href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/bread/">Bread</a> 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It is the first cabinet since British Prime Minister Boris Johnson reshuffled ministerial posts 13 February. Cobinet Meeting, London, United Kingdom - 14 Feb 2020 " width="320" height="199" class="responsive-image--fallback"/> </noscript> </div> </a> <div class="list-of-entities__item-body"> <span class="m_meta-property"> <time class="m_meta-property__date" title="14 Feb 2020, 9:30pm" datetime="2020-02-14T09:30:00" itemprop="datePublished" pubdate> <span class="m_meta-property__date-date">14 Feb 2020</span><span class="m_meta-property__date-separator">,</span> <span class="m_meta-property__date-time">9:30pm</span> </time> </span> <h3 class="list-of-entities__item-body-headline"> <a href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/politics/2020/02/14/bit-tension-downing-street-neighbours-no-bad-thing/"><span class="sr-only">Comment: </span>A bit of tension between the Downing Street neighbours is no bad thing</a> </h3> <div class="list-of-entities__item-author-name"> Charles Moore </div> <span class="premium-label">Premium</span> </div> <div class="list-of-entities__item-author-image"> <div class="list-of-entities__item-author-image-container"> <img class="responsive-image " width="320" height="320" alt=" Charles Moore" data-frz-ratio="1.00" src="/web/20200214225648im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/Author%20photos/charles%20moore-S-small.png" 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style="padding-bottom:62.19%;" data-asset-type="article"> <noscript> <img src="/web/20200214225648im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/politics/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224791795-small_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqpVlberWd9EgFPZtcLiMQfyf2A9a6I9YchsjMeADBa08.jpeg" alt="Boris Johnson, centre, gestures as he speaks during his first Cabinet meeting" width="320" height="199" class="responsive-image--fallback"/> </noscript> </div> </a> <div class="list-of-entities__item-body"> <span class="m_meta-property"> <time class="m_meta-property__date" title="14 Feb 2020, 8:00pm" datetime="2020-02-14T08:00:00" itemprop="datePublished" pubdate> <span class="m_meta-property__date-date">14 Feb 2020</span><span class="m_meta-property__date-separator">,</span> <span class="m_meta-property__date-time">8:00pm</span> </time> </span> <h3 class="list-of-entities__item-body-headline"> <a href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/politics/2020/02/14/never-has-ambitious-man-downing-st-boris-johnson-shows-hand/">'Never has there been a more ambitious man in Downing Street': Boris Johnson shows his hand with Treasury power grab</a> </h3> <span class="premium-label">Premium</span> </div> </div> </li> <li class="list-of-entities__item comment premium" data-timestamp="1581710400000"> <div class="list-of-entities__item-link"> <a href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/politics/2020/02/14/reshuffle-start-whitehall-revolution/" class="list-of-entities__item-image-container" tabindex="-1"> <div class="responsive-image list-of-entities__item-image " data-width="320" data-height="200" data-alt="Comment: Former Chancellor of the Exchequer Sajid Javid leaves his home in London" data-frz-ratio="1.60" data-src="/web/20200214225648oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/politics/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224779288_1-small_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqYO7_xiyF6r3HKBKXSTLIcWMXetSdfhWc2izRzkIKxx0.jpeg" 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style="padding-bottom:62.5%;" data-asset-type="article"> <noscript> <img src="/web/20200214225648im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/politics/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224779288_1-small_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqYO7_xiyF6r3HKBKXSTLIcWMXetSdfhWc2izRzkIKxx0.jpeg" alt=" Former Chancellor of the Exchequer Sajid Javid leaves his home in London" width="320" height="200" class="responsive-image--fallback"/> </noscript> </div> </a> <div class="list-of-entities__item-body"> <span class="m_meta-property"> <time class="m_meta-property__date" title="14 Feb 2020, 8:00pm" datetime="2020-02-14T08:00:00" itemprop="datePublished" pubdate> <span class="m_meta-property__date-date">14 Feb 2020</span><span class="m_meta-property__date-separator">,</span> <span class="m_meta-property__date-time">8:00pm</span> </time> </span> <h3 class="list-of-entities__item-body-headline"> <a href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/politics/2020/02/14/reshuffle-start-whitehall-revolution/"><span class="sr-only">Comment: </span>This reshuffle was the start of a Whitehall revolution</a> </h3> <div class="list-of-entities__item-author-name"> Juliet Samuel </div> <span class="premium-label">Premium</span> </div> <div class="list-of-entities__item-author-image"> <div class="list-of-entities__item-author-image-container"> <img class="responsive-image " width="320" height="320" alt=" Juliet Samuel" data-frz-ratio="1.00" src="/web/20200214225648im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/Author%20photos/Juliet-Samuel-small.png" 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<a href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2020/02/14/harvey-weinstein-master-universe-preyed-powerless-say-prosecutors/" class="list-of-entities__item-image-container" tabindex="-1"> <div class="responsive-image list-of-entities__item-image " data-width="319" data-height="199" data-alt="Harvey Weinstein with Taylor Swift (l) and other stars at the Beverley Hilton Hotel in 2015" data-frz-ratio="1.60" data-src="/web/20200214225648oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/news/2017/12/21/harvey-weinstein-getty-small_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqN-IJhLaQEeagjjxwYxbEQnGH_sPIAWjrrdGM3cDjpbo.jpg" 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style="padding-bottom:62.38%;" data-asset-type="article"> <noscript> <img src="/web/20200214225648im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/news/2017/12/21/harvey-weinstein-getty-small_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqN-IJhLaQEeagjjxwYxbEQnGH_sPIAWjrrdGM3cDjpbo.jpg" alt="Harvey Weinstein with Taylor Swift (l) and other stars at the Beverley Hilton Hotel in 2015" width="319" height="199" class="responsive-image--fallback"/> </noscript> </div> </a> <div class="list-of-entities__item-body"> <span class="m_meta-property"> <time class="m_meta-property__date" title="14 Feb 2020, 7:39pm" datetime="2020-02-14T07:39:50" itemprop="datePublished" pubdate> <span class="m_meta-property__date-date">14 Feb 2020</span><span class="m_meta-property__date-separator">,</span> <span class="m_meta-property__date-time">7:39pm</span> </time> </span> <h3 class="list-of-entities__item-body-headline"> <a href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2020/02/14/harvey-weinstein-master-universe-preyed-powerless-say-prosecutors/">Harvey Weinstein was 'master of the universe' who preyed on the powerless, say prosecutors as they close their case</a> </h3> <span class="premium-label">Premium</span> </div> </div> </li> <li class="list-of-entities__item comment video premium" data-timestamp="1581706395702"> <div class="list-of-entities__item-link"> <a href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2020/02/14/public-health-officials-must-openabout-coronavirus-threat/" class="list-of-entities__item-image-container" tabindex="-1"> <div class="video-icon-wrapper"> <div class="video-icon video-icon--text-image component"> <div class="video-icon__play"> <div class="video-icon__arrow"></div> </div> </div> <img class="responsive-image list-of-entities__item-image" alt="video: Public health officials must be more open about the coronavirus threat" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20200214225648im_/https://i.ytimg.com/vi/K1T0gFuZwQE/mqdefault.jpg"/> </div> </a> <div class="list-of-entities__item-body"> <div class="video-icon video-icon--text-only component"> <div class="video-icon__play"> <div class="video-icon__arrow"></div> </div> </div> <span class="m_meta-property"> <time class="m_meta-property__date" title="14 Feb 2020, 6:53pm" datetime="2020-02-14T06:53:15" itemprop="datePublished" pubdate> <span class="m_meta-property__date-date">14 Feb 2020</span><span class="m_meta-property__date-separator">,</span> <span class="m_meta-property__date-time">6:53pm</span> </time> </span> <h3 class="list-of-entities__item-body-headline"> <a href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2020/02/14/public-health-officials-must-openabout-coronavirus-threat/"><span class="sr-only">Comment: </span>Public health officials must be more open about the coronavirus threat</a> </h3> <div class="list-of-entities__item-author-name"> John Ashton </div> <span class="premium-label">Premium</span> </div> <div class="list-of-entities__item-author-image"> <div class="list-of-entities__item-author-image-container"> </div> </div> </div> </li> <li class="list-of-entities__item premium" data-timestamp="1581704844818"> <div class="list-of-entities__item-link"> <a href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2020/02/14/donald-trump-claims-has-legal-right-intervene-criminal-cases/" class="list-of-entities__item-image-container" tabindex="-1"> <div class="responsive-image list-of-entities__item-image " data-width="320" data-height="199" data-alt="William Barr has previously been criticised for appearing to defend the president's interests" data-frz-ratio="1.60" data-src="/web/20200214225648oe_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/news/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224753918-small_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqpVlberWd9EgFPZtcLiMQfyf2A9a6I9YchsjMeADBa08.jpeg" 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style="padding-bottom:62.19%;" data-asset-type="article"> <noscript> <img src="/web/20200214225648im_/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/news/2020/02/14/TELEMMGLPICT000224753918-small_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqpVlberWd9EgFPZtcLiMQfyf2A9a6I9YchsjMeADBa08.jpeg" alt="William Barr has previously been criticised for appearing to defend the president's interests" width="320" height="199" class="responsive-image--fallback"/> </noscript> </div> </a> <div class="list-of-entities__item-body"> <span class="m_meta-property"> <time class="m_meta-property__date" title="14 Feb 2020, 6:27pm" datetime="2020-02-14T06:27:24" itemprop="datePublished" pubdate> <span class="m_meta-property__date-date">14 Feb 2020</span><span class="m_meta-property__date-separator">,</span> <span class="m_meta-property__date-time">6:27pm</span> </time> </span> <h3 class="list-of-entities__item-body-headline"> <a 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Keir Starmer, Rebecca Long-Bailey, Emily Thornberry and Lisa Nandy are vying to replace Labour leader Jeremy Corbyn, who offered to step down following his party's loss in the December 2019 general election. The new leader will be announced on 4 April, 2020. 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Keir Starmer, Rebecca Long-Bailey, Emily Thornberry and Lisa Nandy are vying to replace Labour leader Jeremy Corbyn, who offered to step down following his party's loss in the December 2019 general election. The new leader will be announced on 4 April, 2020. (" width="181" height="113" class="responsive-image--fallback"/> </noscript> </div> </a> <div class="list-of-entities__item-body"> <span class="m_meta-property"> <time class="m_meta-property__date" title="14 Feb 2020, 5:58pm" datetime="2020-02-14T05:58:37" itemprop="datePublished" pubdate> <span class="m_meta-property__date-date">14 Feb 2020</span><span class="m_meta-property__date-separator">,</span> <span class="m_meta-property__date-time">5:58pm</span> </time> </span> <h3 class="list-of-entities__item-body-headline"> <a href="/web/20200214225648/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/politics/2020/02/14/trans-rights-charter-another-way-labour-put-women-intheir-place/"><span class="sr-only">Comment: </span> The trans rights charter is another way for Labour to put women in their place</a> </h3> <div class="list-of-entities__item-author-name"> Suzanne Moore </div> <span class="premium-label">Premium</span> </div> <div class="list-of-entities__item-author-image"> <div 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