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type="application/ld+json">{"@context":"https://schema.org","@type":"BreadcrumbList","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","item":{"@id":"https://www.afr.com/life-and-luxury","name":"Life & Luxury"},"position":1},{"@type":"ListItem","item":{"@id":"https://www.afr.com/life-and-luxury/food-and-wine","name":"Food & Wine"},"position":2}]}</script><ul class="_741f9bdccbe45c6b5797"><li class="_90b3125353b062c9f570 _956690f22373b593d126" data-testid="breadcrumb-label">Drinks with Max Allen</li><li class="_90b3125353b062c9f570" data-testid="breadcrumb-category"><a class="_3764f7449fdd83320b98" href="/life-and-luxury">Life & Luxury</a></li><li class="_90b3125353b062c9f570" data-testid="breadcrumb-category"><a class="_3764f7449fdd83320b98" href="/life-and-luxury/food-and-wine">Food & Wine</a></li></ul><h1 class="_9e3416b7b144f0713cde">How one man’s mission to save a rundown vineyard won him global renown</h1><p class="_954fa2ebef5f0392b2c8">When viticultural expert Dylan Grigg bought his plot of old-vine grenache in the Barossa, it was a mess. Now it’s a destination for travelling winemakers.</p><figure class="c38fa68eeed3b426ef56 _6f6db0aa612a03c039e8" data-pb-type="im"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1180px)" width="2200" height="1238" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_1440/e_sharpen:30%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_2880/e_sharpen:30%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126 2x" data-pb-im-config="{"aspectRatio":1.777778,"type":"landscape16x9","width":2200,"urls":["https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_1440/e_sharpen:30%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126"," https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_2880/e_sharpen:30%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126 2x"]}"/><source media="(min-width: 1020px)" width="1259" height="709" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_1259%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_2518%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126 2x" data-pb-im-config="{"aspectRatio":1.777778,"type":"landscape16x9","width":1259,"urls":["https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_1259%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126"," https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_2518%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126 2x"]}"/><source media="(min-width: 768px)" width="800" height="450" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_800%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_1600%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126 2x" data-pb-im-config="{"aspectRatio":1.777778,"type":"landscape16x9","width":800,"urls":["https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_800%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126"," https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_1600%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126 2x"]}"/><img alt="" class="c101ad2e6ff325391dc3" data-testid="Image-image" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_1440/e_sharpen:30%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_460%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_920%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126 2x" sizes="(max-width: 767px) 460px" data-id="d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126" data-pb-im-config="{"aspectRatio":1.777778,"type":"landscape16x9","width":460,"urls":["https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_460%2Cq_88%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126"," https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.5082%2C$multiply_2%2C$ratio_1.777778%2C$width_1059%2C$x_0%2C$y_54/t_crop_custom/c_scale%2Cw_920%2Cq_52%2Cf_auto/d6da210cfeabcf9076743393c87e163ea20b0126 2x"]}" width="460" height="259"/></picture><figcaption class="_80bb118486236bcec2bc"><p>Dylan Grigg amid the vines of Vinya Vella.<!-- --> <cite class="_3c0c5a31e2deab9fe7b5">Trim Photography</cite></p></figcaption></figure></header><section class="ae754da393b38cf0f618"><div class="d5dfe5984973a371f244"><section class="_368ce47922cc50406182" id="endOfArticle"><section class="_79ac355651a627afaf4b"><div class="_0744a0c2b755cec1309d"><span class="_4daa2b7c6a2abbd8337c"><span class="bad9c5476c04fb14be3e" data-testid="AuthorNames"><strong><a class="e8a3a96a1d96e42394a5" data-testid="AuthorURL" href="/by/max-allen-gtlsah">Max Allen</a></strong></span><span class="_9d1c61c1b7efcc9b8f44">Drinks columnist</span></span></div><section class="_288fb9f2c1f978e951fd"><div class="_4d22830be8e035459d36" data-testid="ArticleTimestamp"><time data-testid="ArticleTimestamp-time">Nov 22, 2024 – 5.00am</time></div><div class="_2a6dc840ff6bc204ff53" data-testid="ArticleTools"><div class="_9f146e4c46884f388d0e"><button aria-describedby="articleToolsLoginTooltip" class="_13dba38c2689588db954 _7cd6d3a619318b4274cf" data-click-outside-ignore="true" data-testid="SaveArticle-button" type="button"><span class="_82522fbabfe2be1d6f63"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" fill="none" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="dd6db77aa2c85e94be85" focusable="false" height="1em" aria-hidden="true" width="1em"><path stroke="#111" stroke-width="1.2" d="M6.607 5c0-.221.179-.4.4-.4H17c.22 0 .4.18.4.4v13.077a.4.4 0 0 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data-srcset="https://static.ffx.io/images/$width_140%2C$height_140/t_crop_fill%2Cq_auto:best%2Cfl_any_format/9765b06e0f8d26e15b0ea54fc0f307f7da4e1dd1, https://static.ffx.io/images/$width_280%2C$height_280/t_crop_fill%2Cq_auto:best%2Cfl_any_format/9765b06e0f8d26e15b0ea54fc0f307f7da4e1dd1 2x" data-pb-im-config="{"urls":["https://static.ffx.io/images/$width_140%2C$height_140/t_crop_fill%2Cq_auto:best%2Cfl_any_format/9765b06e0f8d26e15b0ea54fc0f307f7da4e1dd1"," https://static.ffx.io/images/$width_280%2C$height_280/t_crop_fill%2Cq_auto:best%2Cfl_any_format/9765b06e0f8d26e15b0ea54fc0f307f7da4e1dd1 2x"],"width":140,"aspectRatio":1,"type":"square1x1"}"/><img alt="Max Allen" class="c101ad2e6ff325391dc3" data-testid="Image-image" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" data-src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$width_140%2C$height_140/t_crop_fill%2Cq_auto:best%2Cfl_any_format/9765b06e0f8d26e15b0ea54fc0f307f7da4e1dd1" 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class="a189e4281d1ef17b0b4e" data-testid="AuthorURL" href="/by/max-allen-gtlsah">Max Allen</a></strong></span><span class="_502fdc96c2c81588de6d">Drinks columnist</span><span class="_528a6daccc86ac482af4">Max Allen is The Australian Financial Review's drinks columnist. 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Across the road is Yalumba’s Tri-Centenary grenache vineyard, planted in 1889. In the other direction, the \u003Cx-placeholder id=\"13045669eb8d6ba1ff2472038650b633c110e031\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E vineyard has grenache that’s nearly as old. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cx-placeholder id=\"275c1bc6465b8b06899beaed7325fb1e46080033\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGrigg is explaining how the old scraggly vines have managed to live so long in this place, weathering fluctuations in wine fashion and changes of ownership – even owners who don’t look after their vineyards properly. The environment helps: it’s windy here, and the soil is sandy, so disease pressure is low. But there’s more to it than that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Grenache can survive neglect better than other varieties,” he says. “Even in the lean years, when these vines were lying on the ground, they produced grapes that winemakers wanted. This vineyard has always seemed to be able to produce, which makes me think that it has legs for the future.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGrigg should know. He has a PhD in what makes old vines tick, and for the past 15 years he’s worked as one of Australia’s leading viticultural consultants. His list of clients includes leading wineries from Clare Valley to the Mornington Peninsula, from the Adelaide Hills to Tasmania.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut it’s at Vinya Vella that he can now put all his theory into practice in exactly the way he wants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cx-placeholder id=\"9b2d29950e101fdb2fd5315bebc7e2577eec3bc8\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGrigg bought this place, with its precious four hectares of 100-year-old grenache vines, in 2021. He wasn’t looking to buy a vineyard at the time but, looking back, it was inevitable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe grew up in the Barossa, and his first job after leaving school in the late 1990s was pruning an old vineyard.A degree in viticulture soon followed, then stints in vineyards in New Zealand and the Yarra Valley. Next came a PhD in Adelaide and then two years living in Catalonia with his young family, working with old garnacha and carinena vines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cx-placeholder id=\"2273023a6bdb7c26a3e20a015739e464e56c227a\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe family returned to Australia just before the pandemic, and Grigg soon found himself looking after the old Vine Vale vineyard for its then owners, who had bought the block a couple of years before.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEarly in 2021, Grigg called them to discuss possible picking dates, and they asked him if he knew of anyone who would like to buy the vineyard: for various reasons, much as they loved the place, they needed to sell.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“So, I phoned a few winemakers, and they were all like, Dyl, \u003Cem\u003Eyou’ve\u003C\u002Fem\u003E got to buy it!”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPete Schell (who has the Spinifex label), told him old vineyards like this only came up every 15 to 20 years, and people like Grigg needed to own them to look after them. He also offered Grigg space at his new winery to make his own wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cx-placeholder id=\"191e006c9edaa4d07dfb43e7a1663d5ac8a4ae37\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt the time, says Grigg, the vineyard was rundown: no wires, no irrigation on the young vines, no nets, no foliage wires, many of the vines were broken, fallen apart. There was a lot of work to be done, but he decided that, yes, he \u003Cem\u003Ewas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E the one to do it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENow, just three years later, Grigg is, as I say, producing one of the best old-vine grenaches in the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The vineyard is an opportunity for me to practise with the old vines and communicate a lot of the viticultural things that I see,” he says. “I get so many visits from Masters of Wine and travelling winemakers now. They come here and I just run my mouth about viticulture. I’m a bit of an introvert, but I like talking about vines. Because it’s important: if I can prove that I can rejuvenate an old site like this, then there’s hope. If we respect the vines and the wine that comes from them, they can tell stories that span multiple generations.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Ch2\u003EThe taste of old- and young-vine grenache\u003C\u002Fh2\u003E\u003Cx-placeholder id=\"5fac9934e6cc47960f86275d0c23386ddaca55b2\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E2023 Vinya Vella Old Vine Grenache [Barossa Valley]\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor a wine made from low-yielding, very old bush vines, this wine is surprisingly bright, fresh and medium-bodied. Wild-fermented with 33 per cent whole bunches, the rest whole berries, pressed into old puncheons, bottled after 10 months, the wine has a scarlet translucence in the glass, pretty aromatics – rose petals, cinnamon, crunchy red berries – and a shiny red cherry character in the mouth, supported by fine, savoury, dusty tannins. Gorgeous. \u003Cstrong\u003E$65 \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cx-placeholder id=\"dece57ca06fb2ce512f9697cbcac369a64a51b3f\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E2023 Vinya Vella Bush Vine Rosé [Barossa Valley]\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis pale, dry rosé is made from younger grenache and mataro vines at Vinya Vella, most planted 30 years ago, some planted much more recently from cuttings taken from the oldest vines on the property. It’s an elegant and savoury expression of the style, with some of the spiciness and prettiness of the red produced from the same vineyard, but less of the intensity and more freshness. \u003Cstrong\u003E$30 \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cx-placeholder id=\"dece57ca06fb2ce512f9697cbcac369a64a51b3f\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fx-placeholder\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E2023 Spinifex Sol Solice [Barossa]\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs well as producing his own wines under the Vinya Vella label, Dylan Grigg sells some of his grapes to other makers. Pete Schell of Spinifex, for example, the winery nearby where Grigg make his wines, takes some grenache from the oldest vines and blends it with grenache from a cooler, higher vineyard in the Eden Valley to produce this dark, dense and deep expression of the grape: lots of bold sweet fruit, framed by snappy, sappy tannins. 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