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1570-1579 | Fashion History Timeline
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href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1300-1349/" data-wpel-link="internal">1300-1349</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6794" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6794"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1350-1399/" data-wpel-link="internal">1350-1399</a></li> </ul> </li> <li id="menu-item-1166" class="menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-has-children menu-item-1166"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/15th-century/" data-wpel-link="internal">15th century</a> <ul class="sub-menu"> <li id="menu-item-6697" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6697"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1400-1409/" data-wpel-link="internal">1400-1409</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6696" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6696"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1410-1419/" data-wpel-link="internal">1410-1419</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6695" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6695"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1420-1429/" data-wpel-link="internal">1420-1429</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6694" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6694"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1430-1439/" data-wpel-link="internal">1430-1439</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6693" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6693"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1440-1449/" data-wpel-link="internal">1440-1449</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6692" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6692"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1450-1459/" data-wpel-link="internal">1450-1459</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6691" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6691"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1460-1469/" data-wpel-link="internal">1460-1469</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6698" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6698"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1470-1479/" data-wpel-link="internal">1470-1479</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6690" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6690"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1480-1489/" data-wpel-link="internal">1480-1489</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6689" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6689"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1490-1499/" data-wpel-link="internal">1490-1499</a></li> </ul> </li> <li id="menu-item-1167" class="menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category current-post-ancestor current-menu-ancestor current-menu-parent current-post-parent menu-item-has-children menu-item-1167"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/16th-century/" data-wpel-link="internal">16th century</a> <ul class="sub-menu"> <li id="menu-item-6730" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6730"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1500-1509/" data-wpel-link="internal">1500-1509</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6118" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6118"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1510-1519/" data-wpel-link="internal">1510-1519</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6688" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6688"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1520-1529/" data-wpel-link="internal">1520-1529</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6117" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6117"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1530-1539/" data-wpel-link="internal">1530-1539</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6183" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6183"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1540-1549/" data-wpel-link="internal">1540-1549</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6791" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6791"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1550-1559/" data-wpel-link="internal">1550-1559</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6184" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6184"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1560-1569/" data-wpel-link="internal">1560-1569</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6185" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post current-menu-item menu-item-6185"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1570-1579/" aria-current="page" data-wpel-link="internal">1570-1579</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6207" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6207"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1580-1589/" data-wpel-link="internal">1580-1589</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6206" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6206"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1590-1599/" data-wpel-link="internal">1590-1599</a></li> </ul> </li> <li id="menu-item-1168" class="century-17th menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-has-children menu-item-1168"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/17th-century/" data-wpel-link="internal">17th century</a> <ul class="sub-menu"> <li id="menu-item-6828" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6828"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1600-1609/" data-wpel-link="internal">1600-1609</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5933" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5933"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1610-1619/" data-wpel-link="internal">1610-1619</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6814" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6814"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1620-1629/" data-wpel-link="internal">1620-1629</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5932" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5932"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1630-1639/" data-wpel-link="internal">1630-1639</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5931" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5931"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1640-1649/" data-wpel-link="internal">1640-1649</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6054" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6054"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1650-1659/" data-wpel-link="internal">1650-1659</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6494" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6494"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1660-1669/" data-wpel-link="internal">1660-1669</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6053" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6053"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1670-1679/" data-wpel-link="internal">1670-1679</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6052" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6052"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1680-1689/" data-wpel-link="internal">1680-1689</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6083" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6083"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1690-1699/" data-wpel-link="internal">1690-1699</a></li> </ul> </li> <li id="menu-item-1169" class="century-18th menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-has-children menu-item-1169"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/18th-century/" data-wpel-link="internal">18th century</a> <ul class="sub-menu"> <li id="menu-item-5920" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5920"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1700-1709/" data-wpel-link="internal">1700-1709</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5921" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5921"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1710-1719/" data-wpel-link="internal">1710-1719</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5922" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5922"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1720-1729/" data-wpel-link="internal">1720-1729</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5929" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5929"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1730-1739/" data-wpel-link="internal">1730-1739</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5928" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5928"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1740-1749/" data-wpel-link="internal">1740-1749</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5927" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5927"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1750-1759/" data-wpel-link="internal">1750-1759</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5926" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5926"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1760-1769/" data-wpel-link="internal">1760-1769</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5925" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5925"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1770-1779/" data-wpel-link="internal">1770-1779</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5924" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5924"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1780-1789/" data-wpel-link="internal">1780-1789</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5923" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5923"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1790-1799/" data-wpel-link="internal">1790-1799</a></li> </ul> </li> <li id="menu-item-1170" class="century-19th menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-has-children menu-item-1170"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/19th-century/" data-wpel-link="internal">19th century</a> <ul class="sub-menu"> <li id="menu-item-6186" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6186"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1800-1809/" data-wpel-link="internal">1800-1809</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6182" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6182"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1810-1819/" data-wpel-link="internal">1810-1819</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6181" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6181"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1820-1829/" data-wpel-link="internal">1820-1829</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6336" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6336"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1830-1839/" data-wpel-link="internal">1830-1839</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5935" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5935"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1840-1849/" data-wpel-link="internal">1840-1849</a></li> <li id="menu-item-5934" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-5934"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1850-1859/" data-wpel-link="internal">1850-1859</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6335" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6335"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1860-1869/" data-wpel-link="internal">1860-1869</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6334" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6334"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1870-1879/" data-wpel-link="internal">1870-1879</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6333" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6333"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1880-1889/" data-wpel-link="internal">1880-1889</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6332" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6332"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1890-1899/" data-wpel-link="internal">1890-1899</a></li> </ul> </li> <li id="menu-item-1171" class="century-20th menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-has-children menu-item-1171"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/20th-century/" data-wpel-link="internal">20th century</a> <ul class="sub-menu"> <li id="menu-item-6030" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6030"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1900-1909/" data-wpel-link="internal">1900-1909</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6029" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6029"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1910-1919/" data-wpel-link="internal">1910-1919</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6028" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6028"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1920-1929/" data-wpel-link="internal">1920-1929</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6027" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6027"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1930-1939/" data-wpel-link="internal">1930-1939</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6026" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6026"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1940-1949/" data-wpel-link="internal">1940-1949</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6025" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6025"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1950-1959/" data-wpel-link="internal">1950-1959</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6086" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6086"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1960-1969/" data-wpel-link="internal">1960-1969</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6085" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6085"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1970-1979/" data-wpel-link="internal">1970-1979</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6084" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6084"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1980-1989/" data-wpel-link="internal">1980-1989</a></li> <li id="menu-item-6141" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6141"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1990-1999/" data-wpel-link="internal">1990-1999</a></li> </ul> </li> <li id="menu-item-1172" class="century-21th menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-has-children menu-item-1172"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/21st-century/" data-wpel-link="internal">21st century</a> <ul class="sub-menu"> <li id="menu-item-6827" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-6827"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/2000-2009/" data-wpel-link="internal">2000-2009</a></li> <li id="menu-item-73920" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-post menu-item-73920"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/2010-2019/" data-wpel-link="internal">2010-2019</a></li> </ul> </li> </ul> </li> <li id="menu-item-107" class="menu-item menu-item-type-custom menu-item-object-custom menu-item-has-children menu-item-107"><a href="#">Essays</a> <ul class="sub-menu"> <li id="menu-item-1182" class="menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-1182"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/artwork-analysis/" data-wpel-link="internal">Artwork analysis</a></li> <li id="menu-item-1185" class="menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-1185"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/garment-analysis/" data-wpel-link="internal">Garment analysis</a></li> <li id="menu-item-1184" class="menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-1184"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/film-analysis/" data-wpel-link="internal">Film analysis</a></li> <li id="menu-item-1186" class="menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-1186"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/thematic-essays/" data-wpel-link="internal">Thematic essays</a></li> <li id="menu-item-14151" class="menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-14151"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/year-overview/" data-wpel-link="internal">Year overviews</a></li> <li id="menu-item-55578" class="menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category current-post-ancestor current-menu-parent current-post-parent menu-item-55578"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/decade-overview/" data-wpel-link="internal">Decade overviews</a></li> <li id="menu-item-55579" class="menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-55579"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/bipoc/" data-wpel-link="internal">BIPOC</a></li> <li id="menu-item-55580" class="menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-55580"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/lgbtq/" data-wpel-link="internal">LGBTQ+</a></li> </ul> </li> <li id="menu-item-3312" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-3312"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/dictionary/" data-wpel-link="internal">Dictionary</a></li> <li id="menu-item-2559" class="menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-2559"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/designer-profile/" data-wpel-link="internal">Designers</a></li> <li id="menu-item-1183" class="menu-item menu-item-type-taxonomy menu-item-object-category menu-item-1183"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/blog/" data-wpel-link="internal">Blog</a></li> <li id="menu-item-2024" class="border-menu-item menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-2024"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/source-database/" data-wpel-link="internal">Source Database</a></li> </ul> <div id="et-mobile-navigation"> <span class="show-menu"> <div class="show-menu-button"> <span></span> <span></span> <span></span> </div> <p>Select Page</p> </span> <nav> </nav> </div> <!-- /#et-mobile-navigation --> </div><!-- /#et-navigation --> </div><!-- /.container --> </div><!-- /#main-header --> </div><!-- /#main-header-wrapper --> </header> <div id="main-content"> <div class="container"> <div id="content-area" class="clearfix"> <div class="et_pb_extra_column_main"> <article id="post-6130" class="module single-post-module post-6130 post type-post status-publish format-standard has-post-thumbnail hentry category-1570-1579 category-16th-century category-decade-overview tag-1570s tag-16th-century tag-art-history tag-digital-humanities tag-fashion-bibliography tag-fashion-history tag-fashion-research tag-fashion-timeline et-has-post-format-content et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"> <div class="post-header"> <h1 class="entry-title">1570-1579</h1> <div class="post-meta"> <p>Posted by <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/author/justine_deyoung/" class="url fn" title="Posts by Justine De Young" rel="author" data-wpel-link="internal">Justine De Young</a> | <span class="updated">Last updated Aug 18, 2020 | Published on Jul 31, 2019</span> | <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/16th-century/1570-1579/" rel="tag" data-wpel-link="internal">1570-1579</a>, <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/16th-century/" rel="tag" data-wpel-link="internal">16th century</a>, <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/decade-overview/" rel="tag" data-wpel-link="internal">decade overview</a></p> </div> </div> <div class="post-thumbnail header"> <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1570-1579/" title="1570-1579" class="featured-image" data-wpel-link="internal"> <img src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/1570-1579-2-1280x640.jpg" alt="1570-1579" /> </a> </div> <div class="post-wrap"> <div class="post-content entry-content"> <div id="et-boc" class="et-boc"> <div class="et-l et-l--post"> <div class="et_builder_inner_content et_pb_gutters3"> <div class="et_pb_section et_pb_section_0 et_pb_with_background et_section_regular" > <div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_0"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_0 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_0 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><h1>OVERVIEW</h1></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_section --><div class="et_pb_section et_pb_section_1 et_section_regular" > <div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_1"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_1 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_1 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><p>Women in the 1570s believed more was more, loved intense decorative effects, and adopted some influences from menswear. Men’s dress was quite curvilinear, with a padded belly, small waist, and large bulbous melon hose at the thighs.</p></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_2"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_2 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_2 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><h2>Womenswear</h2></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_3"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_2_3 et_pb_column_3 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_3 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><p><span style="float: left; font-size: 500%; width: 0.8em; line-height: 80%;">A</span>s Jane Ashelford remarks in <em>Dress in the Age of Elizabeth I</em> (1988): “During the 1570s dress became highly inventive and offered women a wider range of styles and decoration to choose from” (11).</p> <p>Queen Elizabeth used dress politically and dressing well and in keeping with the latest styles was essential at the English court. A portrait by Nicholas Hilliard shows a favorite style of the Queen (Fig. 1), whose taste favored intense decorative exuberance; as Ashelford remarks: “The proliferation of applied decoration is typical of the Elizabethan’s pre-occupation with pattern and avoidance of plain surfaces” (82). The portrait also features a preferred color scheme: “The Queen loved to contrast lustrous white pearls against her favourite colours of black, silver and gold.” (Ashelford 87)</p> <p>A portrait of an unknown Englishwoman (Fig. 2) shares the black, white and gold color palette and the all-over surface decoration, as well as mirroring the queen’s neckline and lace-edged, closed figure-8 ruff. The chemises of both women are decorated with blackwork embroidery, which is quite visible due to the low, sloping/square-cut neckline. A late sixteenth-century chemise in the Met’s collection has extensive blackwork on it (Fig. 3). The floral designs are quite similar to those seen on a sheer embroidered partlet in another British portrait (Fig. 4). Notably that woman has embroidery not only on the sheer partlet, but also on the chemise visible below, creating quite a busy visual effect.</p> <p>A 1578 portrait of Lady Philippa Coningsby (Fig. 5) shows that the ruff will continue to grow in size over the course of the decade (achieving peak width ca. 1585). Lady Coningsby has blackwork embroidery on her chemise and white embroidery on her sheer partlet, in addition to methodically pinked sleeves.</p></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_4 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_0 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_0 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw02074/Queen-Elizabeth-I" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/mw02074.jpg" alt="Queen Elizabeth I" title="Queen Elizabeth I" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 1 - Associated with Nicholas Hilliard (English, 1547-1619). <em>Queen Elizabeth I</em>, ca. 1575. Oil on panel; 78.7 x 61 cm (31 x 24 in). London: National Portrait Gallery, NPG 190. Purchased, 1865. Source: <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw02074/Queen-Elizabeth-I" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">NPG</a></p></div> </div> </div><div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_1 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_1 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw04279/Unknown-woman-formerly-known-as-Mary-Queen-of-Scots" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/mw04279.jpg" alt="Unknown woman, formerly known as Mary, Queen of Scots" title="Unknown woman, formerly known as Mary, Queen of Scots" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 2 - Artist unknown. <em>Unknown woman, formerly known as Mary, Queen of Scots</em>, ca. 1570. Oil on panel; 96.2 x 70.2 cm (37 7/8 x 27 5/8 in). London: National Portrait Gallery, NPG 96. Purchased, 1860. Source: <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw04279/Unknown-woman-formerly-known-as-Mary-Queen-of-Scots" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">NPG</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_4"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_5 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_2 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_2 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80005191" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/41.64_F.jpg" alt="Chemise" title="Chemise" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 3 - Maker unknown (Italian). <em>Chemise</em>, late 16th century. Silk, linen, metal thread. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 41.64. Source: <a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80005191" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">The Met</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_6 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_3 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_3 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/portrait-of-an-unknown-lady-130331/search/venue:national-trust-coughton-court-5477/page/5/view_as/grid" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/NTII_COU_135556.jpg" alt="Portrait of an Unknown Lady (once called 'Catherine Parr', and then 'Catherine Vaux, Lady Throckmorton')" title="Portrait of an Unknown Lady (once called 'Catherine Parr', and then 'Catherine Vaux, Lady Throckmorton')" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 4 - British School. <em>Portrait of an Unknown Lady (once called 'Catherine Parr', and then 'Catherine Vaux, Lady Throckmorton')</em>, 1576. Oil on panel; 54.5 x 45.5 cm. Alcester: Coughton Court, 135556. Source: <a href="https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/portrait-of-an-unknown-lady-130331/search/venue:national-trust-coughton-court-5477/page/5/view_as/grid" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">ArtUK</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_7 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_4 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_4 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://collection.imamuseum.org/artwork/42052/" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/0_original-1.jpg" alt="Lady Philippa Coningsby" title="Lady Philippa Coningsby" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 5 - George Gower (English, 1530-1596). <em>Lady Philippa Coningsby</em>, 1578. Oil on panel; (37 x 27 5/8 in). Indianapolis Museum of Art, 56.107. James E. Roberts Fund. Source: <a href="https://collection.imamuseum.org/artwork/42052/" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">IMA</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_5"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_8 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_5 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_5 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Elizabeth_Littleton,_Lady_Willoughby.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/590px-Elizabeth_Littleton_Lady_Willoughby.jpg" alt="Elizabeth Littleton, Lady Willoughby" title="Elizabeth Littleton, Lady Willoughby" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 6 - George Gower (English, 1540-1596). <em>Elizabeth Littleton, Lady Willoughby</em>, 1573. Oil on canvas; 75.6 x 63.5 cm (29.7 x 25 in). Source: <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Elizabeth_Littleton,_Lady_Willoughby.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Wikipedia</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_2_3 et_pb_column_9 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_4 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><p>Hats and hairstyles adapted to counterbalance the expanding width of the ruff and silhouette in general, as Ashelford notes:</p> <blockquote> <p>“An increased desire for width can also be seen in the shape of the hair: it is now puffed out on both sides of the head and the jewel-encrusted bonnet that adorns the head is flatter and longer so that it balances the wider shape.” (28-29)</p> </blockquote> <p>All of these portraits also highlight a shift in period jewelry styles, which Millia Davenport explains with reference to a portrait of Lady Willoughby (Fig. 6)</p> <blockquote> <p>“During the reign of Elizabeth, the character of jewelry alters: jeweled collars are replaced by draped strands of pearls; and oval medallions by more elaborate pendants, showing better cut stones, increasingly naturalistic enamel work in paler colors; miniatures; cameos; mirrors; and watches of all shapes, octagonal, fat and pomander-like, or flattened. Both the form of the pendant and the spot at which it is places are now less often symmetrical. Lady Willoughby wears her enameled mermaid pendant at one side of her bodice, which is looped with strings of pearls combined with beads.” (439)</p> </blockquote> <p>Lady Willoughby also wears a man’s style hat—another popular trend of the time:</p> <blockquote> <p>“Interest in the hat now centers on its band. This carries the jewels formerly pinned to the under side of the brim; and from it, clusters of plumes emphasize the heightening crown. The male hat, much seen on women, is worn here, as was usual, with loose uncovered hair and a tiny reticulated cap, set on the back of the head. The hat, as well as the cap, is often worn indoors by women at this period, just as it is by men.” (Davenport 439)</p> </blockquote></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_6"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_10 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_6 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_6 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw02075/Queen-Elizabeth-I" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/mw02075.jpg" alt="Queen Elizabeth I" title="Queen Elizabeth I" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 7 - Artist unknown (Continental). <em>Queen Elizabeth I</em>, ca. 1575. Oil on panel; 113 x 78.7 cm (44 1/2 x 31 in). London: National Portrait Gallery, NPG 2082. Purchased, 1925. Source: <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw02075/Queen-Elizabeth-I" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">NPG</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_11 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_7 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_7 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://collections.readingmuseum.org.uk/index.asp?page=record&mwsquery=%7Btotopic%7D=%7BStory%20of%20Reading%20Gallery%7D&filename=REDMG&hitsStart=6" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/s0710109.jpg" alt="Queen Elizabeth I" title="Queen Elizabeth I" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 8 - Arist unknown. <em>Queen Elizabeth I</em>, ca. 1575. Oil on panel; 98 x 133 cm. Reading Museum, REDMG 1980.168.1. Source: <a href="https://collections.readingmuseum.org.uk/index.asp?page=record&mwsquery=%7Btotopic%7D=%7BStory%20of%20Reading%20Gallery%7D&filename=REDMG&hitsStart=6" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Reading Museum</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_12 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_8 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_8 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.bayerisches-nationalmuseum.de/index.php?id=508&tx_paintingdb_pi%5Bp%5D=10&cHash=2cd9b2365c68efc48b5179b4f217ed8c" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/T_4382-T_4403_D52107.jpg" alt="Robe of the Countess Dorothea Sabina" title="Robe of the Countess Dorothea Sabina" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 9 - Designer unknown (Italian). <em>Robe of the Countess Dorothea Sabina</em>, late 16th century. Silk, velvet, metallic thread. The Bavarian National Museum, Munich. Source: <a href="https://www.bayerisches-nationalmuseum.de/index.php?id=508&tx_paintingdb_pi%5Bp%5D=10&cHash=2cd9b2365c68efc48b5179b4f217ed8c" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Bayerisches Nationalmuseum</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_7"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_13 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_5 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><p>A portrait of Queen Elizabeth (Fig. 7) shows her wearing asymmetrically draped strands of pearls, but also the menswear influence as her dress bodice appears to be modeled on man’s doublet with a center-front fastening, high collar, and very narrow skirt/peplum—now essentially a border at the edge (Ashelford 84). Counterbalancing the masculine styling, the dress is trimmed in pale orange and made with a gold floral brocade pattern on what would originally have been a darker crimson/violet ground. Contemporary critic Philip Stubbes nonetheless complained in the 1570s that “mannes apparell is, for all the worlde” (Arnold 137). Of course, as a queen ruling an empire adopting masculine dress elements likely amplified Elizabeth’s projection of power. The doublet influence is even more evident in a portrait from ca. 1575 (Fig. 8), where her dress bodice ends in pickadils at the peplum and the wings. As Ashelford remarks: “The silhouette is becoming fuller and stiffer. The width across the upper part of the body is accentuated by a tiny waist and the wing no longer projects above the sleeve” (97). Janet Arnold notes other changes in the silhouette as well in <em>Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlock’d</em> (1988),</p> <blockquote> <p>“From the late 1560s onwards the pleats at the waist were interlined and the skirt was worn over padded cotton rolls which gradually increased in size, giving a dome shape. The waistline rose slightly over the padding in the mid-1570s still keeping the point in the front.” (19)</p> </blockquote></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_8"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_2_3 et_pb_column_14 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_6 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><p>A surviving dress in Italian fabric (Fig. 9) has similar styling, with tabs edging the doublet-like bodice. The dress still has an inverted V-shaped opening in the front to reveal a contrasting kirtle/skirt. Notably this dress has both long, loose hanging sleeves and narrow, banded tubular sleeves. Hanging sleeves like this were particularly worn in Spain as you can see in Alonso Sánchez Coello’s portrait of a lady with a fan (Fig. 10) and in his portraits of Anna of Austria (see the Fashion Icon section below). Spanish collars were particularly high on both men and women.</p> <p>For further discussion of Spanish fashion, see the analysis of Anna of Austria in the Fashion Icon section below.</p></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_15 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_9 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_9 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.museodelprado.es/en/the-collection/art-work/lady-with-a-fan/a3e55673-354d-441a-8599-a8d1f3a43108" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Lady-with-a-Fan.jpg" alt="Lady with a Fan" title="Lady with a Fan" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 10 - Alonso Sánchez Coello (Spanish, 1531-1588). <em>Lady with a Fan</em>, 1570-73. Oil on panel; 62.6 x 55 cm. Madrid: Museo del Prado, P001142. Source: <a href="https://www.museodelprado.es/en/the-collection/art-work/lady-with-a-fan/a3e55673-354d-441a-8599-a8d1f3a43108" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Prado</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_9"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_16 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_10 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_10 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.khm.at/objektdb/detail/44/" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/GG_2583x.jpg" alt="Maria de' Medici" title="Maria de' Medici" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 11 - Alessandro Allori (Florentine, 1535-1607). <em>Maria de' Medici</em>, Oil on poplar. 116 x 90. Vienna: Kunsthistoriches Museum, 2583. Source: <a href="https://www.khm.at/objektdb/detail/44/" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">KHM</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_17 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_11 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_11 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Fran%C3%A7ois_Clouet_-_Elisabeth_of_Austria_(ca._1571)_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/François_Clouet_-_Elisabeth_of_Austria_ca._1571_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" alt="Elisabeth of Austria (1554-1592), Queen of France, daughter of Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian II of Austria and Infanta Maria of Spain, wife of King Charles Charles IX of France" title="Elisabeth of Austria (1554-1592), Queen of France, daughter of Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian II of Austria and Infanta Maria of Spain, wife of King Charles Charles IX of France" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 12 - François Clouet (French, 1510-1572). <em>Elisabeth of Austria (1554-1592), Queen of France, daughter of Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian II of Austria and Infanta Maria of Spain, wife of King Charles Charles IX of France</em>, ca. 1571. Oil on panel; 37 x 25 cm (14.5 x 9.8 in). Chantilly: Musée Condé, PE 258. Source: <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Fran%C3%A7ois_Clouet_-_Elisabeth_of_Austria_(ca._1571)_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Wikipedia</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_18 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_12 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_12 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sibylle_de_Cl%C3%A8ves-Juliers-Berg,_margravine_de_Burgau_(1557-1628),_by_Monogrammist_AC.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/761px-Sibylle_de_Clèves-Juliers-Berg.jpg" alt="Sibylle de Clèves-Juliers-Berg, margravine de Burgau" title="Sibylle de Clèves-Juliers-Berg, margravine de Burgau" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 13 - Monogrammist AC (French, active unti 1577). <em>Sibylle de Clèves-Juliers-Berg, margravine de Burgau</em>, before 1577. Oil on panel; 49.3 x 36.1 cm. Private Collection. Source: <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sibylle_de_Cl%C3%A8ves-Juliers-Berg,_margravine_de_Burgau_(1557-1628),_by_Monogrammist_AC.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Wikipedia</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_10"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_2_3 et_pb_column_19 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_7 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><p>On the other hand, Italian women preferred open collars, which flared out and stood up and framed the neck; this style would later be termed a <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/medici-collar/" data-wpel-link="internal">Medici collar</a>. You can see an example in Alessandro Allori’s portrait of Maria de’ Medici (Fig. 11); her sleeves are banded like those in the surviving dress seen above. She wears a short-sleeved overdress like a Spanish <em>ropa</em>, rather than the doublet-influenced fashions seen on Queen Elizabeth.</p> <p>Elisabeth of Austria, Queen of France, (Fig. 12) wears the rather stiff, puffed fashions popular at the French court, with a symmetrical arrangement of her jewelry. Sibylle de Clèves-Juliers-Berg (Fig. 13) also wears symmetrically styled jewelry, with a larger figure-8 ruff and cuffs and rather high shoulder wings. The ensemble is very ordered and lavish in its use of gold embroidery; she wears a small mannish bonnet atop her head.</p> <p>Mette of Münchhausen (Fig. 14) displays more traditional Germanic dress styles, including the decorative pleated white apron at front. Tight pleating is also visible in her dress and skirt as well. She wears a black velvet <em>gollar</em>, or shoulder cape (Brown 86).</p></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_20 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_13 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_13 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ludger_Tom_Ring_d.J._-_Mette_von_M%C3%BCnchhausen_-_Hamburger_Kunsthalle.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Ludger_Tom_Ring_d.J._-_Mette_von_Münchhausen_-_Hamburger_Kunsthalle.jpg" alt="Mette of Münchhausen" title="Mette of Münchhausen" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 14 - Ludger Tom Ring the Younger (German, 1522-1584). <em>Mette of Münchhausen</em>, ca. 1570. Oil on pearwood; 58.1 x 38.8 cm. Hamburg Kunsthalle, 344. Gift of Consul Eduard F. Weber 1912. Source: <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ludger_Tom_Ring_d.J._-_Mette_von_M%C3%BCnchhausen_-_Hamburger_Kunsthalle.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Wikipedia</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_11"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_21 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_divider et_pb_divider_0 et_pb_divider_position_ et_pb_space"><div class="et_pb_divider_internal"></div></div><div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_8 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><h2>Fashion Icon: <strong>Anna of Austria, Queen of Spain</strong></h2></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_12"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_22 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_14 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_14 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.museodelprado.es/en/the-collection/art-work/queen-anne-of-austria-fourth-wife-of-philip-ii/5bc2e43e-9cc2-4948-91d7-9d9bfdd06e27" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Queen-Anne-of-Austria-fourth-Wife-of-Philip-II.jpg" alt="Queen Anna of Austria" title="Queen Anna of Austria" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 1 - Bartolomé González after Anthonis Mor (Spanish, 1564-1627). <em>Queen Anna of Austria</em>, ca. 1616 (based on portrait of 1570). Oil on canvas; 108.5 x 87 cm. Madrid: Museo el Prado, P001141. Source: <a href="https://www.museodelprado.es/en/the-collection/art-work/queen-anne-of-austria-fourth-wife-of-philip-ii/5bc2e43e-9cc2-4948-91d7-9d9bfdd06e27" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Prado</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_2_3 et_pb_column_23 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_9 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><p><span style="float: left; font-size: 500%; width: 0.8em; line-height: 80%;">A</span>nna of Austria (1549-1580) was the eldest daughter of Maximilian II, Holy Roman Emperor, and Maria of Spain. Anna was born in Spain, but raised in Vienna from age 4. She became Queen of Spain in 1570 at the age of 20 when she married King Philip II.</p> <p>Antonis Mor is thought to have painted Anna as she traveled to Spain to be married. In the portrait (Fig. 1) she wears a white outer robe with gold embroidery, worn open to reveal a diagonally striped doublet-like bodice with a very high collar topped by a small, figure-8 ruff. Her arms are only half covered by the outer robe’s sleeves, which stop at the elbow and then hang freely behind her forearm. Her robe sleeves are attached with large reddish pink ribbons with golden points.</p> <p>Another portrait by Mor (Fig. 2) shows her in an almost identical pose, complete with one hand gloved in black clutching a white handkerchief, except the color palette here is completely different as she wears a deep black outer robe and a canary yellow doublet-bodice. Her arms are free of the outer robe’s sleeves entirely, which hang loosely behind her. She wears a masculine-style black feathered bonnet encrusted with jewels.</p> <p>Philip II was her maternal uncle and she had previously been engaged to his son, Don Carlos, but upon Don Carlos’ untimely death plans changed. She was Philip II’s fourth wife. Their marriage was reputed to be a happy one, with Anna described as “vivid and cheerful” (Wikipedia).</p> <p>Alonso Sánchez Coello’s ca. 1571 portrait of Anna as Queen (Fig. 3) shows her in a more stiffly formal look, with her outer robe buttoned all the way up to her now larger, lace-edged ruff. The white robe is covered in gold embroidery and the surface is <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/" data-wpel-link="internal">slashed</a> all over. As in the first portrait, her arms are inserted only half through her robe sleeves, with the empty sleeves hanging behind.</p></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_13"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_24 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_15 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_15 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.khm.at/objektdb/detail/1248/" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/GG_3053x.jpg" alt="Anna of Austria, Queen of Spain" title="Anna of Austria, Queen of Spain" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 2 - Anthonis Mor van Dashorst (Netherlandish, 1516-1575). <em>Anna of Austria, Queen of Spain</em>, 1570. Oil on canvas; 161 x 110 cm. Vienna: Kunsthistorisches Museum, 3053. Source: <a href="https://www.khm.at/objektdb/detail/1248/" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">KHM</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_25 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_16 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_16 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Alonso_S%C3%A1nchez_Coello_-_Anne_of_Austria,_Queen_of_Spain_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/565px-Alonso_Sánchez_Coello_-_Anne_of_Austria_Queen_of_Spain_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" alt="Anna of Austria, Queen Consort of Spain" title="Anna of Austria, Queen Consort of Spain" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 3 - Alonso Sánchez Coello (Spanish, 1531-1588). <em>Anna of Austria, Queen Consort of Spain</em>, ca. 1571. Oil on canvas; 125.7 x 101.5 cm (49.4 x 39.9 in). Madrid: Museo Lázaro Galdiano, 8030. Source: <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Alonso_S%C3%A1nchez_Coello_-_Anne_of_Austria,_Queen_of_Spain_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Wikipedia</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_26 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_17 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_17 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.khm.at/objektdb/detail/1686/" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/GG_1733x.jpg" alt="Anna of Austria" title="Anna of Austria" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 4 - Alonso Sánchez Coello (Spanish, 1531-1588). <em>Anna of Austria</em>, 1571. Oil on canvas; 176 x 98 cm (69.3 x 38.6 in). Vienna: Kunsthistorisches Museum, GG 1733. Source: <a href="https://www.khm.at/objektdb/detail/1686/" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">KHM</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_14"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_27 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_10 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><p>Another Coello portrait (Fig. 4) features yet another hanging sleeve style, which became fashionable:</p> <blockquote> <p>“In the 1570s Anna of Austria, Queen of Spain, wore an elegant black <em>saya</em> (gown) with white accents and lavish embroidery. The gown’s long, pointed sleeves and subtle fit earned Spanish tailors international repute.” (Brown 94)</p> </blockquote> <p>Her dress style is also fashion forward in its use of ribbons as Davenport explains:</p> <blockquote> <p>“Ribbon loops (which will become extremely important in XVIIc.) have come into use on the jeweled puntas which catch her skirt and great sleeves.” (466)</p> </blockquote> <p>Anna and Philip had five children together, the youngest and only surviving son (of four) would go onto to rule Spain as Philip III. A Coello painting of 1579 (Fig. 5) shows Anna banqueting with Philip and other family and courtiers. It offers a rare rear view of dress in this period. Anna would die the next year at age 30 only eight months after the birth of her only daughter.</p></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_15"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_28 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_18 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_18 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:S%C3%A1nchez_Coello_Royal_feast.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/1024px-Sánchez_Coello_Royal_feast.jpg" alt="King Philip II of Spain banqueting with his family and courtiers" title="King Philip II of Spain banqueting with his family and courtiers" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 5 - Alonso Sánchez Coello (Spanish, 1531-1588). <em>King Philip II of Spain banqueting with his family and courtiers</em>, 1579. Oil on canvas; 110 x 202 cm (43.3 x 79.5 in). Warsaw: National Museum, M.Ob.295 (73635). Source: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:S%C3%A1nchez_Coello_Royal_feast.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Wikipedia</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_16"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_29 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_divider et_pb_divider_1 et_pb_divider_position_ et_pb_space"><div class="et_pb_divider_internal"></div></div><div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_11 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><h2>Menswear</h2></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_17"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_2_3 et_pb_column_30 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_12 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><span style="float: left; font-size: 500%; width: 0.8em; line-height: 80%;">T</span>he prominence of the peascod belly was one of the defining features of 1570s menwear. As Ashelford explains in <em>Dress in the Age of Elizabeth I</em>,</p> <blockquote><p>“a peascod, was created by stiffening the front of the doublet with pasteboard or busks and heavy padding at the point of the waist. The padding was called bombast, and could be made from horsehair, flocks, rags, cotton, flax, rags [sic] and even bran.” (47)</p></blockquote> <p>The distinctive peascod shape is visible in Frans Pourbus’s portrait of <em>George, 5th Lord Seton and his Family</em> (Fig. 1). Queen Elizabeth’s favorite, Robert Dudley sports an even more fashionable version in a ca. 1575 portrait (Fig. 2). As Hill points out, the belly’s protrusion was very localized:</p> <blockquote><p>“In the 1570s, the tailored protuberance reached such distended proportions that the garment came to be known as the peascod-belly or ‘goose-belly’ doublet. Yet the bulge was confined solely to the front of the garment. The fashion was still very much for a trim, youthful waistline despite the rotund frontal projection.” (356)</p></blockquote> <p>This is evident in the portrait of Dudley and also in that of Sir Philip Sidney (Fig. 3). Both men’s doublets are covered all over with slashing and the peplum/skirt of the doublet is now only a mere border, as was typical by 1575 (Cunningtons 91).</div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_31 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_19 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_19 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.nationalgalleries.org/art-and-artists/5289/george-5th-lord-seton-about-1531-1585-and-his-family" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/george-5th-lord-seton-about-1531-1585-and-his-fami.jpg" alt="George, 5th Lord Seton (about 1531-1585) and his Family" title="George, 5th Lord Seton (about 1531-1585) and his Family" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 1 - Frans Pourbus (Netherlandish, 1545-1581). <em>George, 5th Lord Seton (about 1531-1585) and his Family</em>, 1572. Oil on panel; 109 x 79 cm. Edinburgh: National Galleries of Scotland, NG 2275. Bequest of Sir Theophilus Biddulph 1948; received 1965. Source: <a href="https://www.nationalgalleries.org/art-and-artists/5289/george-5th-lord-seton-about-1531-1585-and-his-family" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">National Galleries of Scotland</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_18"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_32 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_20 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_20 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw03851/Robert-Dudley-1st-Earl-of-Leicester" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/mw03851.jpg" alt="Robert Dudley, 1st Earl of Leicester" title="Robert Dudley, 1st Earl of Leicester" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 2 - Artist unknown (Anglo-Netherlandish). <em>Robert Dudley, 1st Earl of Leicester</em>, ca. 1575. Oil on panel; 108 x 82.6 cm (42 1/2 x 32 1/2 in). London: National Portrait Gallery, NPG 447. Purchased, 1877. Source: <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw03851/Robert-Dudley-1st-Earl-of-Leicester" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">NPG</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_33 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_21 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_21 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait.php?search=ap&npgno=2096&eDate=&lDate=" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/mw05807.jpg" alt="Sir Philip Sidney" title="Sir Philip Sidney" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 3 - Artist unknown. <em>Sir Philip Sidney</em>, 18th century or after, based on work of ca. 1575. Oil on canvas; 115.2 x 82.3 cm (45 3/8 x 32 3/8 in). London: National Portrait Gallery, NPG 2096. Given by Harold Lee-Dillon, 17th Viscount Dillon, 1925. Source: <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait.php?search=ap&npgno=2096&eDate=&lDate=" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">NPG</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_34 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_22 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_22 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw01438/Sir-Thomas-Coningsby" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/mw01438.jpg" alt="Sir Thomas Coningsby" title="Sir Thomas Coningsby" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 4 - Artist unknown. <em>Sir Thomas Coningsby</em>, 1572. Oil on panel; 94 x 69.9 cm (37 x 27 1/2 in). London: National Portrait Gallery, NPG 4348. Purchased, 1964. Source: <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw01438/Sir-Thomas-Coningsby" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">NPG</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_19"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_35 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_23 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_23 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sir_Martin_Frobisher_by_Cornelis_Ketel.jpeg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Sir_Martin_Frobisher_by_Cornelis_Ketel.jpg" alt="Sir Martin Frobisher" title="Sir Martin Frobisher" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 5 - Cornelis Ketel (Netherlandish, 1548-1616). <em>Sir Martin Frobisher</em>, 1577. Oil on canvas; 211 x 98 cm (83 x 38.5 in). University of Oxford. Source: <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sir_Martin_Frobisher_by_Cornelis_Ketel.jpeg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Wikipedia</a></p></div> </div> </div><div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_24 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_24 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/92224.html" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/img0044.jpg" alt="Jerkin" title="Jerkin" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 6 - Maker unknown. <em>Jerkin</em>, 1571-1590. Leather, linen; l 67 cm (centre front); c 118 cm (chest); w 46 cm (shoulder); w 4 cm (shoulder tabs); l 59 cm (centre back). Museum of London, 57.127/1. Source: <a href="https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/92224.html" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Museum of London</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_2_3 et_pb_column_36 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_13 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><p>The Cunningtons describe a change in doublet/jerkin collars to accommodate the larger ruffs being worn:</p> <blockquote> <p>“After 1570 the collar subsided slightly or remained high behind, curving away in front to make room for the large ruffs of the 1570s, which were worn with a forward tilt, up behind and down in front.” (90)</p> </blockquote> <p>Ruffs are medium-sized, often arranged in a figure-8 pattern and worn closed, with the band strings tied and concealed (Cunningtons 112). There were exceptions, as in Dudley’s portrait his ruff seems to part to allow his beard to descend and Sir Thomas Coningsby’s ruff seems to be embracing a slightly anarchic spirit in its folds (Fig. 4). Sidney’s ruff (Fig. 3) is worn atop a metal gorget, which “could only be worn with civilian dress if the wearer had been on military service,” as Ashelford explains in <em>A Visual History of Costume</em> (93). These ruffs were now frequently separate from the shirt and tied on, rather than merely being an elaboration of the existing shirt collar. The shirt remained the foundational garment for menswear in this period.</p> <p>While Dudley and Sidney’s doubets feature actual slashing and pinking (regular small slits or shapes cut into the fabric’s surface), Coningsby’s doublet illustrates that embroidery to look like slashing and pinking was also popular. Indeed, as Ashelford remarks: “Experimentation with surface decoration in male and female dress in the 1570s took on an almost trompe l’oeil form” (81). Of course, some doublets and jerkins were quite plain; for example, the leather jerkin seen in the portrait of Sir Martin Frobisher (Fig. 5) and in a similar surviving example in the Museum of London (Fig. 6). Ashelford explains the leather jerkin’s origins and fashionability in <em>Dress in the Age of Elizabeth I</em>:</p> <blockquote> <p>“The leather jerkin, a military garment adapted for civilian use, was also known as the buff jerkin, as it was made of buff, an ox-hide dressed with oil. This type of jerkin, a relatively inexpensive garment went out of fashion in the mid 1570s, but remained in general use during the seventeenth century.” (47)</p> </blockquote> <p>While Dudley and Sidney wear very full <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/panes-paning/" data-wpel-link="internal">paned</a> melon hose, with a slight <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/codpiece/" data-wpel-link="internal">codpiece</a> visible, Frobisher wears much looser trunk hose as Davenport explains: “Full, loose, breeches (venetians) never have codpieces and usually fasten below the knee, and are finished here by picadill slashing” (441).</p> <p>Frobisher’s portrait reveals another practical trend that is less frequently seen in painting of this period, namely the unbuttoning of the jerkin. While this sort of casual informality will be a hallmark of 17th-century portraiture, it is less frequently seen in the 16th century. It wasn’t merely a style choice as:</p> <blockquote> <p>“These superimposed padded garments were terribly hot, and both men and women got relief by wearing them open to the waist. In the presence of the French ambassador, De Maisse, Elizabeth opened her gown to the navel.” (Davenport 441)</p> </blockquote></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_20"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_37 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_25 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_25 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Anjou_1570louvre.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Anjou_1570louvre.jpg" alt="Henry III before his ascent" title="Henry III before his ascent" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 7 - Jean de Court (French, 1530-1584). <em>Henry III before his ascent</em>, 1573-1574. Oil on panel; 35 × 25 cm (13.8 × 9.8 in). Chantilly: Musée Condé, PE 256. Source: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Anjou_1570louvre.jpg" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Wikipedia</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_38 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_26 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_26 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/437143" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/32.100.119.jpg" alt="Portrait of a Man in White" title="Portrait of a Man in White" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 8 - Monogrammist LAM (French). <em>Portrait of a Man in White</em>, 1574. Oil on wood; 41 x 24.1 cm (16 1/8 x 9 1/2 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 32.100.119. The Friedsam Collection, Bequest of Michael Friedsam, 1931. Source: <a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/437143" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">The Met</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_39 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_27 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_27 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://derniersvalois.canalblog.com/archives/henri_iii/p0-0.html" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/52742052_p.jpg" alt="Miniature of Henri III" title="Miniature of Henri III" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 9 - Artist unknown. <em>Miniature of Henri III</em>, ca. 1578. Florence: Pitti Palace. Source: <a href="https://derniersvalois.canalblog.com/archives/henri_iii/p0-0.html" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Les Derniers Valois</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_21"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_40 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_14 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><p>In France, Henri III (Fig. 7) embraced a particularly extravagant look and a much more buttoned up one than worn at the English court. His doublet and cloak are covered in gold embroidery or braid and his jewel-studded necklace is made of strands of pearls. Contemporary visitors to the French court attest to its status-dressing:</p> <blockquote> <p>“The size of a courtier’s wardrobe in Paris was described by ambassador Lippomano in 1577, who said a wardrobe of 25 to 30 costumes was necessary to be esteemed rich, and a different outfit had to be worn every day.” (De Marly 33)</p> </blockquote> <p>A small, full-length portrait of a man in white (Fig. 8) shows an elegant ensemble, with a “doublet with the sloping shoulder seen in France” (Davenport 481). Henri III is credited with pushing the ruff to new widths, as Boucher recounts:</p> <blockquote> <p>“Possibly Henri III, always on the look-out for new fashions, was attracted by the sheer extravagance of this accessory [the ruff]. In any case, in 1578 he appeared in a starched ruff made of fifteen ells of muslin half a foot wide; this provoke the comments of the Parisians, who compared it with the platter bearing the head of John the Baptist and shouted, ‘You can tell the calf’s head by the ruff’ at courtiers who ventured out thus adorned.” (240)</p> </blockquote> <p>A portrait miniature from ca. 1578 (Fig. 9) shows Henri III in just such a platter-sized ruff, which will become the fashionable norm in the <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1580-1589/" data-wpel-link="internal">1580s</a>.</p></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_22"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_41 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_28 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_28 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/524387950335218708/" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/6cc929c9036ce1b62126ac0223e15067.jpg" alt="Doublet" title="Doublet" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 10 - Maker unknown. <em>Doublet</em>, 1570s. Breeches a la sevilla, stocking and cassock made of tabby silk. Private Collection. Source: <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/524387950335218708/" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Pinterest</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_42 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_29 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_29 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/437890" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/DP-14936-005.jpg" alt="Boy with a Greyhound" title="Boy with a Greyhound" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 11 - Paolo Veronese (Paolo Caliari) (Italian, 1528-1588). <em>Boy with a Greyhound</em>, 1570s. Oil on canvas; 173.7 x 101.9 cm (68 3/8 x 40 1/8 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 29.100.105. H. O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929. Source: <a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/437890" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">The Met</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_43 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_30 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_30 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.lombardiabeniculturali.it/opere-arte/schede/C0050-00488/?view=istituti&hid=1&offset=538&sort=sort_date_int" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Moroni-Io-sono.jpg" alt="Bernardo Spini" title="Bernardo Spini" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 12 - Giovanni Battista Moroni (Italian, 1520-1578). <em>Bernardo Spini</em>, ca. 1570. Oil on canvas; 98.5 x 197.6 cm. Bergamo: Pinacoteca dell'Accademia Carrara. Source: <a href="https://www.lombardiabeniculturali.it/opere-arte/schede/C0050-00488/?view=istituti&hid=1&offset=538&sort=sort_date_int" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">LombardiaBeniCulturali</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_23"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_44 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_15 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><p>A crimson doublet, breeches and stockings ensemble (Fig. 10) from this period survives, providing further evidence of the shift in silhouette—namely, the doublet having narrow sleeves and only a narrow border at the waist rather than the fuller skirt seen earlier in the century. The breeches or melon hose are bulbous as one would expect and the whole look monochromatic like that seen in the portrait by LAM (Fig. 8). A similar style of dress is seen in the unnamed <em>Boy with a Greyhound</em> (Fig. 11) at the Met, which also features a prominent peascod belly.</p> <p>Giovanni Battista Moroni’s portrait of Bernardo Spini (Fig. 12) shows another monochromatic ensemble, though here the black of doublet, hose, and stockings is enlivened by the bright pops of white of his ruff and cuffs. The surface of his doublet is elaborately pinked. Beneath his full melon hose, he wears (rather difficult to distinguish) canions, “tight fitting extensions from the trunk hose to the knee or just below” (Cunningtons 116).</p> <p>Gloves were often worn or carried; swords were a must-have accessory even for civilian dress. Shoes tended to follow the natural form of the foot and were still often decorated with slashing.</p></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_24"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_45 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_divider et_pb_divider_2 et_pb_divider_position_ et_pb_space"><div class="et_pb_divider_internal"></div></div><div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_16 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><h2>CHILDREN’S WEAR</h2></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_25"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_3_5 et_pb_column_46 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_17 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><span style="float: left; font-size: 500%; width: 0.8em; line-height: 80%;">A</span>s in the rest of the century, in the 1570s children were dressed as miniature adults as soon as it was possible as a portrait of three unknown children demonstrates (Fig. 1). The boys’ doublets are covered in slashing and pinking, with their pendant necklaces even tucked through a pair of the slashes. The girl at center wears a particularly elaborate, lace-edged ruff and her gown and sleeves are also extensively slashed and pinked. Notably she holds a guinea pig, a New World animal, making this one of the earliest European depictions of a guinea pig.</p> <p>Siblings were often dressed in quite similar fashions as that portrait and another of a man his two children (Fig. 2) by Moroni attests. While the National Gallery says the painting features his two daughters, it is also possible the younger child is a boy as boys were dressed in skirts until often the age of 4 or 5. Lady Arabella Stuart (Fig. 3) at 23 months wears a dress with shoulder wings cut into pickadils and elaborate floral embroidery on the bodice and sleeves as was popular in womenswear of the day, but is not yet wearing a ruff, like that seen on the doll she holds. The doll “may have been made to convey fashion news and then handed down as a toy” as Arnold notes in <em>Patterns of Fashion 4</em> (158).</p> <p>A portrait of a little girl with a basket of cherries (Fig. 4) also shows her in a simpler lace collar and wearing a coral necklace—both likely concessions to her age. Coral necklaces were popular gifts for children and were thought to confer protection onto them.</div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_2_5 et_pb_column_47 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_31 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_31 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://members.optusnet.com.au/~cjfewtrell/guineasart.htm" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/ThreeElizabethanChildren.jpg" alt="Three Children" title="Three Children" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 1 - Artist unknown. <em>Three Children</em>, 1575-80. Oil on panel; 73 x 57 cm. Private Collection. Source: <a href="https://members.optusnet.com.au/~cjfewtrell/guineasart.htm" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Guinea pigs in art</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_26"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_48 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_32 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_32 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://onlinecollection.nationalgallery.ie/objects/640/portrait-of-a-gentleman-and-his-two-children" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/mlbwovpob5fb4uqu8yj4.jpg" alt="Portrait of a Gentleman and His Two Children" title="Portrait of a Gentleman and His Two Children" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 2 - Giovanni Battista Moroni (Italian, 1521-1579). <em>Portrait of a Gentleman and His Two Children</em>, ca. 1572-75. Oil on canvas; 125.3 x 98 cm. Dublin: National Gallery of Ireland, NGI.105. Purchased, 1866. Source: <a href="https://onlinecollection.nationalgallery.ie/objects/640/portrait-of-a-gentleman-and-his-two-children" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">National Gallery</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_49 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_33 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_33 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1129175" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/ntiii_hard_1129175_large.jpg" alt="Lady Arabella Stuart, later Duchess of Somerset (1575-1615), aged 23 months" title="Lady Arabella Stuart, later Duchess of Somerset (1575-1615), aged 23 months" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 3 - British School. <em>Lady Arabella Stuart, later Duchess of Somerset (1575-1615), aged 23 months</em>, 1577. Oil on panel; 75.1 x 61.5 cm. Derbyshire: Hardwick Hall, NT 1129175. Source: <a href="https://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1129175" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">National Trust</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_50 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_34 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image_fit et_pb_image_fit_34 et_pb_image et_always_center_on_mobile"> <a href="https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/follower-of-marten-de-vos-a-little-girl-with-a-basket-of-cherries" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><img decoding="async" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/N-6161-00-000014-wpu.jpg" alt="A Little Girl with a Basket of Cherries" title="A Little Girl with a Basket of Cherries" /></a> </div><div class="et_pb_text et_pb_module et_pb_bg_layout_light et_pb_text_align_left"><p class="fit-image-caption"> Fig. 4 - Follower of Marten de Vos (Netherlandish). <em>A Little Girl with a Basket of Cherries</em>, ca. 1575-80. Oil on canvas; 80.4 x 52.9 cm. London: The National Gallery, NG6161. Bequeathed by Mrs Elizabeth Carstairs, 1952. Source: <a href="https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/follower-of-marten-de-vos-a-little-girl-with-a-basket-of-cherries" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">National Gallery</a></p></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div id="decade_nav" class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_27"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_51 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_button_module_wrapper et_pb_button_0_wrapper et_pb_button_alignment_left et_pb_module "> <a id="decade_back" class="et_pb_button et_pb_custom_button_icon et_pb_button_0 et_pb_bg_layout_light" href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1560-1569/" data-icon="4" data-wpel-link="internal">1560-1569</a> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_52 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_button_module_wrapper et_pb_button_1_wrapper et_pb_button_alignment_center et_pb_module "> <a id="decade_up" class="et_pb_button et_pb_custom_button_icon et_pb_button_1 et_pb_bg_layout_light" href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/16th-century/" data-icon="2" data-wpel-link="internal">16th Century</a> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_53 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_button_module_wrapper et_pb_button_2_wrapper et_pb_button_alignment_right et_pb_module "> <a id="decade_next" class="et_pb_button et_pb_custom_button_icon et_pb_button_2 et_pb_bg_layout_light" href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1580-1589/" data-icon="5" data-wpel-link="internal">1580-1589</a> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_28"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_54 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_18 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><h5><strong>References:</strong></h5> <ul> <li>“Anna of Austria, Queen of Spain.” In <em>Wikipedia</em>, July 20, 2019. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Anna_of_Austria,_Queen_of_Spain&oldid=907146892" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Anna_of_Austria,_Queen_of_Spain&oldid=907146892</a>.</li> <li>Arnold, Janet. <em>Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlock’d: The Inventories of the Wardrobe of Robes Prepared in July 1600</em>. Leeds: Maney, 1988. <a href="http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/939897963" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/939897963</a>.</li> <li>Arnold, Janet, Jenny Tiramani, and Santina M. Levey. <em>Patterns of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women c.1540-1660</em>. Hollywood: Quite Specific Media Group, 2008. <a href="http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/909294834" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/909294834</a>.</li> <li>Ashelford, Jane. <em>A Visual History of Costume: The Sixteenth Century</em>. London: Batsford, 1983. <a href="http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/748457696" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/748457696</a>.</li> <li>———. <em>Dress in the Age of Elizabeth I</em>. London: Batsford, 1988. <a href="http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/17981612" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/17981612</a>.</li> <li>Boucher, François, Yvonne Deslandres, and John Ross. <em>A History of Costume in the West: With 1188 Illustrations, 365 in Colour</em>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1997. <a href="http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/443676264" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/443676264</a>.</li> <li>Brown, Susan, ed. <em>Fashion: The Definitive History of Costume and Style</em>. New York: DK Publishing, 2012. <a href="http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/840417029" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/840417029</a>.</li> <li>Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington. <em>Handbook of English Costume in the Sixteenth Century</em>. London: Faber and Faber, 1954. <a href="http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/362761" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/362761</a>.</li> <li>Davenport, Millia. <em>The Book of Costume</em>. New York: Crown Publishers, 1948. <a href="http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/922657048" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/922657048</a>.</li> <li>De Marly, Diana. <em>Fashion for Men: An Illustrated History</em>. London: B.T. Batsford Ltd, 1985. <a href="http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/752978274" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/752978274</a>.</li> <li>Hill, Daniel Delis. <em>History of World Costume and Fashion</em>. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Pearson Prentice Hall, 2011. <a href="http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/768100950" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/768100950</a>.</li> </ul></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_section --><div class="et_pb_section et_pb_section_2 et_pb_with_background et_section_regular" > <div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_29"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_55 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_19 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><h2>Historical Context</h2></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_30"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_1_3 et_pb_column_56 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_20 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><h5>Wikipedia: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1570s" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer external" data-wpel-link="external">1570-1579</a></h5> <h5>Rulers:</h5> <ul> <li>England: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_I_of_England" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer external" data-wpel-link="external">Queen Elizabeth I</a> (1558 – 1603)</li> <li>France: <ul> <li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_IX_of_France" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer external" data-wpel-link="external">Charles IX</a> (1560 – 1574)</li> <li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_III_of_France" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer external" data-wpel-link="external">Henry III</a> (1574-1589)</li> </ul> </li> <li>Spain: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philip_II_of_Spain" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer external" data-wpel-link="external">Phillip II</a> (1556-1598)</li> </ul></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --><div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_2_3 et_pb_column_57 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_image et_pb_image_0 et_pb_image_sticky"> <a href="https://render.fineartamerica.com/images/rendered/default/print/8.000/5.875/break/images-medium/1570-map-of-europe--from-abraham-everett.jpg" class="et_pb_lightbox_image" title="" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><span class="et_pb_image_wrap "><img decoding="async" src="https://render.fineartamerica.com/images/rendered/default/print/8.000/5.875/break/images-medium/1570-map-of-europe--from-abraham-everett.jpg" alt="" title="" height="auto" width="auto" /></span></a> </div><div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_21 et_pb_text_align_center et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><p style="text-align: center;">1570 Map of Europe. Source: <a href="https://fineartamerica.com/featured/1570-map-of-europe--from-abraham-everett.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer external" data-wpel-link="external">Fine Art America</a></p></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --><div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_31"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_58 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_22 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><h5>Events:</h5> <ul> <li>1572 – Saint Bartholomew’s Day Massacre: The marriage of Margaret Valois to the Protestant Henry of Navarre leads to an attack by the Catholics upon the Protestants across France, killing thousands of Huguenots.</li> <li>1574-89 – Reign of Henry III marked by religious civil war</li> <li>1577 – The first clock with a minute hand appears, developed by Jost Burgi, a Swiss clockmaker.</li> <li>1579 – The population of China reaches 60 million. </li> <li>1570s – Introduction of the French, or “wheel,” farthingale, with a stuffed roll around the hips and a hoop with horizontal stiffeners tied around the waist that makes the skirt stick out from the body.</li> </ul></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_section --><div class="et_pb_section et_pb_section_3 et_section_regular" > <div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_32 et_pb_row_fullwidth et_pb_gutters2"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_59 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_23 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><h2>Timeline Entries</h2></div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --><div class="et_pb_module et_pb_dpblog_portfolio et_pb_dpblog_portfolio_0 dp_ppp_module et_pb_portfolio_grid clearfix et_pb_bg_layout_light "> <div class="et_pb_module_inner"> <div id="post-24650" class="et_pb_portfolio_item et_pb_grid_item post-24650 post type-post status-publish format-standard has-post-thumbnail hentry category-1570-1579 category-16th-century category-artwork-analysis tag-16th-century tag-art-history tag-fashion-history tag-fashion-research tag-tudor et-has-post-format-content et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1572-de-heere-henry-viii/" data-wpel-link="internal"><span class="et_portfolio_image"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" class="dp_ppp_post_thumb " src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/2-1-1-400x284.jpg" alt="1572 – Lucas de Heere, The Family of Henry VIII: An Allegory of the Tudor Succession" width="400" height="284" data-lightbox-gallery="off" data-gallery-image="0"><span class="et_overlay et_pb_inline_icon" data-icon=""></span></span></a><h2 class="entry-title"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1572-de-heere-henry-viii/" data-wpel-link="internal">1572 – Lucas de Heere, The Family of Henry VIII: An Allegory of the Tudor Succession</a></h2><p class="post-meta"><span class="ppp-blog-post-categories"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/16th-century/1570-1579/" rel="tag" data-wpel-link="internal">1570-1579</a>, <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/16th-century/" rel="tag" data-wpel-link="internal">16th century</a>, <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/artwork-analysis/" rel="tag" data-wpel-link="internal">artwork analysis</a></span></p></div> <!-- .dp_blog_portfolio_item --><div id="post-13183" class="et_pb_portfolio_item et_pb_grid_item post-13183 post type-post status-publish format-standard has-post-thumbnail hentry category-1570-1579 category-16th-century category-artwork-analysis tag-1570s tag-16th-century tag-armor tag-art-history tag-digital-humanities tag-fashion-history tag-fashion-research et-has-post-format-content et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1572-devereux-earl-of-essex/" data-wpel-link="internal"><span class="et_portfolio_image"><img decoding="async" class="dp_ppp_post_thumb " src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/DP162146-400x284.jpg" alt="1572 – Unknown British Painter, Portrait of Walter Devereux (1539–1576), First Earl of Essex" width="400" height="284" data-lightbox-gallery="off" data-gallery-image="1"><span class="et_overlay et_pb_inline_icon" data-icon=""></span></span></a><h2 class="entry-title"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1572-devereux-earl-of-essex/" data-wpel-link="internal">1572 – Unknown British Painter, Portrait of Walter Devereux (1539–1576), First Earl of Essex</a></h2><p class="post-meta"><span class="ppp-blog-post-categories"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/16th-century/1570-1579/" rel="tag" data-wpel-link="internal">1570-1579</a>, <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/16th-century/" rel="tag" data-wpel-link="internal">16th century</a>, <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/artwork-analysis/" rel="tag" data-wpel-link="internal">artwork analysis</a></span></p></div> <!-- .dp_blog_portfolio_item --><div class="clearfix"></div> </div> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_section --><div class="et_pb_section et_pb_section_4 et_pb_with_background et_section_regular" > <div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_33"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_60 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_24 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><h2>Primary/Period Sources</h2> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --><div class="et_pb_module et_pb_toggle et_pb_toggle_0 et_pb_toggle_item et_pb_toggle_open"> <h5 class="et_pb_toggle_title">Resources for Fashion History Research</h5> <div class="et_pb_toggle_content clearfix"><p><em>To discover primary/period sources, explore the categories below.</em><br /> <em>Have a primary source to suggest? Or a newly digitized periodical/book to announce? <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/contact-us/" data-wpel-link="internal">Contact us</a>!</em></p> </div> <!-- .et_pb_toggle_content --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_toggle --><div class="et_pb_module et_pb_toggle et_pb_toggle_1 et_pb_toggle_item et_pb_toggle_close"> <h5 class="et_pb_toggle_title">Digitized Primary/Period Sources</h5> <div class="et_pb_toggle_content clearfix"><p><div id="zotpress-21942b2125a0598811e45336443ad424" class="zp-Zotpress zp-Zotpress-Bib wp-block-group"> <span class="ZP_API_USER_ID" style="display: none;">1341706</span> <span class="ZP_ITEM_KEY" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_COLLECTION_ID" style="display: none;">I4UHHVNC</span> <span class="ZP_TAG_ID" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_AUTHOR" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_YEAR" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_ITEMTYPE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_ITEM_TYPE" style="display: none;">items</span> <span class="ZP_INCLUSIVE" style="display: none;">1</span> <span class="ZP_STYLE" style="display: none;">chicago-fullnote-bibliography</span> <span class="ZP_LIMIT" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_SORTBY" style="display: none;">date</span> <span class="ZP_ORDER" style="display: none;">asc</span> <span class="ZP_TITLE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_SHOWIMAGE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_SHOWTAGS" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_DOWNLOADABLE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_NOTES" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_ABSTRACT" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_CITEABLE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_TARGET" style="display: none;">1</span> <span class="ZP_URLWRAP" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_FORCENUM" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_HIGHLIGHT" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZOTPRESS_PLUGIN_URL" style="display:none;">https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/plugins/zotpress/</span> <div class="zp-List loading"> <div class="zp-SEO-Content"><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-EZQT5HS7" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Biblioteca Digital Hispánica. “Códice de Trajes / Costume Book,” 16th century. <a target="_blank" href="http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000052132&page=1" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000052132&page=1</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-4MST8GLE" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Heere, Lucas d’. “Théâtre de tous les peuples et nations de la terre avec leurs habits et ornemens divers, tant anciens que modernes,” 16th century. <a target="_blank" href="https://lib.ugent.be/en/catalog?q=rug01:000794288" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">https://lib.ugent.be/en/catalog?q=rug01:000794288</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-8HJC3UJP" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Biblioteca Digital Hispánica. “Triunfo Del Emperador Maximiliano I, Rey de Hungría, Dalmacia y Croacia, Archiduque de Austria,” 1501. <a target="_blank" href="http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000012553&page=1" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000012553&page=1</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-K4NZRP7A" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Erasmus, Desiderius. <i>De Ciuilitate Morum Puerilium</i>. De Civilitate Morum Puerilium. Parisiis Paris: Ex officina Reginaldi Calderij, & Claudij eius filij, 1547. <a target="_blank" href="http://hdl.handle.net/10111/UIUCUNICA:erasde0001ciumor" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://hdl.handle.net/10111/UIUCUNICA:erasde0001ciumor</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-Z8XJ2E4B" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Biblioteca Digital Hispánica. “OMNIUM FERE GENTIUM nostraeque aetatis nationum Habitus et Effigies...,” 1572. <a target="_blank" href="http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000099490&page=1" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000099490&page=1</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-D39QJMR4" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Ockings, Joost van. “Alba Amicorum,” 1576. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.kb.nl/kbhtml/alba/frameset9.html" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">https://www.kb.nl/kbhtml/alba/frameset9.html</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-7SLNKTQ9" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Amman, Joost. “Habitus Praecipuorum Populorum, Tam Virorum Quam Foeminarum Singulari Arte Depicti...[Texto Impreso].” Biblioteca Digital Hispánica, 1577. <a target="_blank" href="http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000099924&page=1" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000099924&page=1</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-BA7YPXIF" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Alcega, Juan de. “Libro de Geometria, Practica y Traça / Tailor’s Pattern Book.” Biblioteca Digital Hispánica, 1580. <a target="_blank" href="http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000022768&page=1" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000022768&page=1</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-26WJJK2K" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Bruyn, Abraham de. “Omnium Pene Europae, Asiae, Aphricae, Atque Americae Gentium Habitus.” Biblioteca Digital Hispánica, 1581. <a target="_blank" href="http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000099918&page=1" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000099918&page=1</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-Y55MXAWF" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Bertelli, Pietro. “Diuersarū Nationum Habitus Centum, et Quattuor Iconibus in Aere Incisis Diligenter Expressi Item Ordines Duo Processionum Vnus Summi Pontificis Alter Sereniss. Principis Venetiarum.” Biblioteca Digital Hispánica, 1594. <a target="_blank" href="http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000016695&page=1" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://bdh-rd.bne.es/viewer.vm?id=0000016695&page=1</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-8AQW79PU" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">LACMA Collections. “Album Amicorum of a German Soldier,” 1595. <a target="_blank" href="https://collections.lacma.org/node/172051" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">https://collections.lacma.org/node/172051</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-R4Q4S2XF" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Della Casa, Giovanni, and Nicholas Fitzherbert. <i>Trattato ... cognominato Galateo, ovvero de’ costumi. Colla traduzione latina a fronte de Niccolò Fierberto Inglese, già pubblicata in Roma l’anno 1595 ...</i> Padova: Presso G. Comino, 1728. <a target="_blank" href="https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/008965469" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/008965469</a>.</div> </div></div></div><!-- .zp-zp-SEO-Content --> </div><!-- .zp-List --></div><!--.zp-Zotpress--> </p> </div> <!-- .et_pb_toggle_content --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_toggle --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_column --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_row --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_section --><div class="et_pb_section et_pb_section_5 et_section_regular" > <div class="et_pb_row et_pb_row_34"> <div class="et_pb_column et_pb_column_4_4 et_pb_column_61 et_pb_css_mix_blend_mode_passthrough et-last-child"> <div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_25 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><h2>Secondary Sources</h2> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --><div class="et_pb_module et_pb_text et_pb_text_26 et_pb_text_align_left et_pb_bg_layout_light"> <div class="et_pb_text_inner"><p><em>Also see the <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/16th-century/" data-wpel-link="internal">16th-century overview</a> page for more research sources… or browse our <a href="https://www.zotero.org/groups/1341706/fashion_history_timeline/items" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Zotero library</a>.</em></p> </div> </div> <!-- .et_pb_text --><div class="et_pb_module et_pb_toggle et_pb_toggle_2 et_pb_toggle_item et_pb_toggle_close"> <h5 class="et_pb_toggle_title">Online</h5> <div class="et_pb_toggle_content clearfix"><p><div id="zotpress-55b2989b42a9ed6c777249e85479b595" class="zp-Zotpress zp-Zotpress-Bib wp-block-group"> <span class="ZP_API_USER_ID" style="display: none;">1341706</span> <span class="ZP_ITEM_KEY" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_COLLECTION_ID" style="display: none;">MALCXRDJ</span> <span class="ZP_TAG_ID" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_AUTHOR" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_YEAR" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_ITEMTYPE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_ITEM_TYPE" style="display: none;">items</span> <span class="ZP_INCLUSIVE" style="display: none;">1</span> <span class="ZP_STYLE" style="display: none;">chicago-fullnote-bibliography</span> <span class="ZP_LIMIT" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_SORTBY" style="display: none;">title</span> <span class="ZP_ORDER" style="display: none;">asc</span> <span class="ZP_TITLE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_SHOWIMAGE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_SHOWTAGS" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_DOWNLOADABLE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_NOTES" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_ABSTRACT" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_CITEABLE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_TARGET" style="display: none;">1</span> <span class="ZP_URLWRAP" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_FORCENUM" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_HIGHLIGHT" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZOTPRESS_PLUGIN_URL" style="display:none;">https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/plugins/zotpress/</span> <div class="zp-List loading"> <div class="zp-SEO-Content"><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-JQB3QKPP" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">“1500–1550 in Western European Fashion.” In <i>Wikipedia</i>, n.d. <a target="_blank" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=1500%E2%80%931550_in_Western_European_fashion&oldid=818779252" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=1500%E2%80%931550_in_Western_European_fashion&oldid=818779252</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-76AVFSBQ" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">“1550–1600 in Western European Fashion.” In <i>Wikipedia</i>, n.d. <a target="_blank" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion&oldid=810773280" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion&oldid=810773280</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-57VECKDS" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">“Elizabethan Costuming Page,” n.d. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.elizabethancostume.net/index.html" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.elizabethancostume.net/index.html</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-B3KLQAZT" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Watt, Melinda. “English Embroidery of the Late Tudor and Stuart Eras.” The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, n.d. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/broi/hd_broi.htm" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/broi/hd_broi.htm</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-776EZ6H5" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Breiding, Dirk H. “Fashion in European Armor.” The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, n.d. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/afas/hd_afas.htm" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/afas/hd_afas.htm</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-MQ99QL3V" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Breiding, Dirk H. “Fashion in European Armor, 1500–1600.” The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, n.d. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/afas16/hd_afas16.htm" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/afas16/hd_afas16.htm</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-254B9ZHE" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Victoria and Albert Museum. “Fashion up to the 17th Century Reading List,” January 13, 2011. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/f/reading-list-fashion-up-to-the-17th-century/" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/f/reading-list-fashion-up-to-the-17th-century/</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-4RKFPFV9" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">“Recreating 16th and 17th Century Clothing: The Renaissance Tailor,” n.d. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.renaissancetailor.com/research_vocabulary.htm" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.renaissancetailor.com/research_vocabulary.htm</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-VLUAWP2L" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Watt, Melinda. “Renaissance Velvet Textiles.” The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, n.d. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/velv/hd_velv.htm" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/velv/hd_velv.htm</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-CVY46U98" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Breiding, Dirk H. “The Decoration of European Armor.” The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, n.d. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/deca/hd_deca.htm" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/deca/hd_deca.htm</a>.</div> </div></div></div><!-- .zp-zp-SEO-Content --> </div><!-- .zp-List --></div><!--.zp-Zotpress--> </p> </div> <!-- .et_pb_toggle_content --> </div> <!-- .et_pb_toggle --><div class="et_pb_module et_pb_toggle et_pb_toggle_3 et_pb_toggle_item et_pb_toggle_close"> <h5 class="et_pb_toggle_title">Books/Articles</h5> <div class="et_pb_toggle_content clearfix"><div id="zotpress-35566a5a664c49a4440ffdb007511dc3" class="zp-Zotpress zp-Zotpress-Bib wp-block-group"> <span class="ZP_API_USER_ID" style="display: none;">1341706</span> <span class="ZP_ITEM_KEY" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_COLLECTION_ID" style="display: none;">E5MF75G4</span> <span class="ZP_TAG_ID" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_AUTHOR" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_YEAR" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_ITEMTYPE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_ITEM_TYPE" style="display: none;">items</span> <span class="ZP_INCLUSIVE" style="display: none;">1</span> <span class="ZP_STYLE" style="display: none;">chicago-fullnote-bibliography</span> <span class="ZP_LIMIT" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_SORTBY" style="display: none;">author</span> <span class="ZP_ORDER" style="display: none;">asc</span> <span class="ZP_TITLE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_SHOWIMAGE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_SHOWTAGS" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_DOWNLOADABLE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_NOTES" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_ABSTRACT" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_CITEABLE" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_TARGET" style="display: none;">1</span> <span class="ZP_URLWRAP" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_FORCENUM" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZP_HIGHLIGHT" style="display: none;"></span> <span class="ZOTPRESS_PLUGIN_URL" style="display:none;">https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/plugins/zotpress/</span> <div class="zp-List loading"> <div class="zp-SEO-Content"><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-D5PFES5B" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Arnold, Janet. <i>Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlock’d: The Inventories of the Wardrobe of Robes Prepared in July 1600</i>. Leeds: Maney, 1988. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/939897963" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer">http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/939897963</a>.</div> </div></div><div id="zp-ID-6130-1341706-3AP9VDRV" class="zp-Entry zpSearchResultsItem"><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; padding-left: 1em; text-indent:-1em;"> <div class="csl-entry">Arnold, Janet, Jenny Tiramani, and Santina M. Levey. <i>Patterns of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women c.1540-1660</i>. 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} </style> </div> </article> <nav class="post-nav"> <div class="nav-links clearfix"> <div class="nav-link nav-link-prev"> <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1560-1569/" rel="prev" data-wpel-link="internal"><span class="button">Previous</span><span class="title">1560-1569</span></a> </div> <div class="nav-link nav-link-next"> <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1890-1899/" rel="next" data-wpel-link="internal"><span class="button">Next</span><span class="title">1890-1899</span></a> </div> </div> </nav> <div class="et_extra_other_module author-box vcard"> <div class="author-box-header"> <h3>About The Author</h3> </div> <div class="author-box-content clearfix"> <div class="author-box-avatar"> <img alt='Justine De Young' src='https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Justine-1-150x150.jpg' class='avatar avatar-170 photo avatar-default' height='170' width='170' /> </div> <div class="author-box-description"> <h4><a class="author-link url fn" href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/author/justine_deyoung/" rel="author" title="View all posts by Justine De Young" data-wpel-link="internal">Justine De Young</a></h4> <p class="note">A member of FIT's History of Art department since 2015, Dr. De Young specializes in the intersection of art and fashion. Her research and writing interests include nineteenth- and twentieth-century art and literature, visual and material culture, modernism and fashion. She is the editor of <em>Fashion in European Art: Dress and Identity, Politics and the Body, 1775-1925</em> (I.B. Tauris 2017/Bloomsbury 2019). Her work has been generously supported by grants and fellowships from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Getty, Kress and Mellon Foundations. Before coming to FIT, Dr. De Young previously taught art and fashion history at Harvard, Wellesley, Lesley and Northwestern University. She has a strong interest in curatorial work and contributed to the “Impressionism, Fashion & Modernity” exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Musée d’Orsay, and Art Institute of Chicago. She has held fellowships at the Met’s Costume Institute, the Museum of Fine Arts Boston, and Northwestern’s Mary & Leigh Block Museum of Art. She is currently completing a book on discourses surrounding fashion and feminine types in works exhibited at the Paris Salon (1864-1884).</p> <ul class="social-icons"> <li class="icon-link-twitter"><a href="https://twitter.com/addressingart" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><span class="et-extra-icon et-extra-icon-twitter et-extra-icon-color-hover"></span></a></li> <li class="icon-link-instagram"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/addressingart/" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><span class="et-extra-icon et-extra-icon-instagram et-extra-icon-color-hover"></span></a></li> <li class="icon-link-linkedin"><a href="https://www.linkedin.com/in/justinedeyoung/" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><span class="et-extra-icon et-extra-icon-linkedin et-extra-icon-color-hover"></span></a></li> <li class="icon-link-website"><a href="http://www.fitnyc.edu/history-of-art/faculty/justine-de-young.php" class="icon-link-website" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external" rel="external noopener noreferrer"><i class="et-extra-icon et-extra-icon-website"></i></a></li> </ul> </div> </div> </div> <div class="et_extra_other_module related-posts"> <div class="related-posts-header"> <h3>Related Posts</h3> </div> <div class="related-posts-content clearfix"> <div class="related-post"> <div class="featured-image"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1568-bernardino-campi/" title="1568 – Bernardino Campi, Portrait of a Woman" class="post-thumbnail" data-wpel-link="internal"> <img src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/1568-Campi-1280x768-1280x640-440x264.jpg" alt="1568 – Bernardino Campi, Portrait of a Woman" /><span class="et_pb_extra_overlay"></span> </a></div> <h4 class="title"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1568-bernardino-campi/" data-wpel-link="internal">1568 – Bernardino Campi, Portrait of a Woman</a></h4> <p class="date"><span class="updated">Last updated Oct 10, 2019 | Published on Mar 24, 2017</span></p> </div> <div class="related-post"> <div class="featured-image"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/medici-collar/" title="Medici collar" class="post-thumbnail" data-wpel-link="internal"> <img src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/medici-collar-1280x768-440x264.jpg" alt="Medici collar" /><span class="et_pb_extra_overlay"></span> </a></div> <h4 class="title"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/medici-collar/" data-wpel-link="internal">Medici collar</a></h4> <p class="date"><span class="updated">Last updated Aug 13, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017</span></p> </div> <div class="related-post"> <div class="featured-image"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/muff/" title="muff" class="post-thumbnail" data-wpel-link="internal"> <img src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/muff-1280x768-440x264.jpg" alt="muff" /><span class="et_pb_extra_overlay"></span> </a></div> <h4 class="title"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/muff/" data-wpel-link="internal">muff</a></h4> <p class="date"><span class="updated">Last updated Aug 13, 2018 | Published on Feb 24, 2017</span></p> </div> <div class="related-post"> <div class="featured-image"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/needle-lace/" title="needle lace" class="post-thumbnail" data-wpel-link="internal"> <img src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/needle-lace-1280x768-440x264.jpg" alt="needle lace" /><span class="et_pb_extra_overlay"></span> </a></div> <h4 class="title"><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/needle-lace/" data-wpel-link="internal">needle lace</a></h4> <p class="date"><span class="updated">Last updated May 15, 2019 | Published on Mar 24, 2017</span></p> </div> </div> </div> </div><!-- /.et_pb_extra_column.et_pb_extra_column_main --> <div class="et_pb_extra_column_sidebar"> <div id="search-2" class="et_pb_widget widget_search"><h4 class="widgettitle"> </h4><form role="search" method="get" class="search-form" action="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/"> <label> <span class="screen-reader-text">Search for:</span> <input type="search" class="search-field" placeholder="Search …" value="" name="s" /> </label> <input type="submit" class="search-submit" value="Search" /> </form></div> <!-- end .et_pb_widget --><div id="recent-posts-widget-with-thumbnails-3" class="et_pb_widget recent-posts-widget-with-thumbnails"> <div id="rpwwt-recent-posts-widget-with-thumbnails-3" class="rpwwt-widget"> <h4 class="widgettitle">Recent Essays</h4> <ul> <li><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/late-byzantine-silk-damask-dress/" data-wpel-link="internal"><img width="75" height="75" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Museum_of_Mystras_dress_of_the_mummy_of_mystra_riconstruction-150x150.jpeg" class="attachment-90x75 size-90x75 wp-post-image" alt="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Museum_of_Mystras_dress_of_the_mummy_of_mystra_riconstruction-150x150.jpeg 150w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Museum_of_Mystras_dress_of_the_mummy_of_mystra_riconstruction-440x440.jpeg 440w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Museum_of_Mystras_dress_of_the_mummy_of_mystra_riconstruction-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Museum_of_Mystras_dress_of_the_mummy_of_mystra_riconstruction-100x100.jpeg 100w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 75px) 100vw, 75px" /><span class="rpwwt-post-title">15th century – Late Byzantine Silk Damask Dress and Taffeta Tunic</span></a><div class="rpwwt-post-categories">In 15th century, Byzantine, garment analysis</div></li> <li><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/the-fez-and-the-ottoman/" data-wpel-link="internal"><img width="75" height="75" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mahmud_II-150x150.jpeg" class="attachment-90x75 size-90x75 wp-post-image" alt="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mahmud_II-150x150.jpeg 150w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mahmud_II-440x440.jpeg 440w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mahmud_II-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Mahmud_II-100x100.jpeg 100w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 75px) 100vw, 75px" /><span class="rpwwt-post-title">The Fez and the Ottoman Path to Modernity</span></a><div class="rpwwt-post-categories">In 19th century, 20th century, thematic essays</div></li> <li><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1869-red-silk-dress/" data-wpel-link="internal"><img width="75" height="75" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Featured-Image-e1521259844502-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-90x75 size-90x75 wp-post-image" alt="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Featured-Image-e1521259844502-150x150.jpg 150w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Featured-Image-e1521259844502-200x200.jpg 200w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Featured-Image-e1521259844502-64x64.jpg 64w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Featured-Image-e1521259844502-26x26.jpg 26w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Featured-Image-e1521259844502-440x440.jpg 440w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Featured-Image-e1521259844502-300x300.jpg 300w, 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<span style="border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c no-repeat scroll 3px 50% / 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;">Save</span></p> <p><span style="border-radius: 2px; text-indent: 20px; width: auto; padding: 0px 4px 0px 0px; text-align: center; font: bold 11px/20px 'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,sans-serif; color: #ffffff; background: #bd081c no-repeat scroll 3px 50% / 14px 14px; position: absolute; opacity: 1; z-index: 8675309; display: none; cursor: pointer;">Save</span></p> </div> </div> <!-- end .et_pb_widget --> </div> <div class="et_pb_extra_column even column-2"> <div id="woocommerce_products-2" class="et_pb_widget woocommerce widget_products"><h4 class="widgettitle">Research Sources</h4><ul class="product_list_widget"><li> <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/source-database/global-fashion/the-americas/the-jazz-age-2017/" data-wpel-link="internal"> <img width="300" height="300" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/jazzagecover1-300x300.jpg" class="attachment-woocommerce_thumbnail size-woocommerce_thumbnail" alt="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/jazzagecover1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/jazzagecover1-440x440.jpg 440w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/jazzagecover1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/jazzagecover1-150x150.jpg 150w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/jazzagecover1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/jazzagecover1-100x100.jpg 100w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/jazzagecover1.jpg 900w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /> <span class="product-title">The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s (2017)</span> </a> </li> <li> <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/source-database/global-fashion/europe/hippie-chic-2013/" data-wpel-link="internal"> <img width="300" height="300" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/hippiechiccover1-300x300.jpg" class="attachment-woocommerce_thumbnail size-woocommerce_thumbnail" alt="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/hippiechiccover1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/hippiechiccover1-440x440.jpg 440w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/hippiechiccover1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/hippiechiccover1-150x150.jpg 150w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/hippiechiccover1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/hippiechiccover1-100x100.jpg 100w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/hippiechiccover1.jpg 900w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /> <span class="product-title">Hippie Chic (2013)</span> </a> </li> <li> <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/source-database/global-fashion/europe/addressing-the-century-100-years-of-art-and-fashion-1998/" data-wpel-link="internal"> <img width="300" height="300" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Addressing-300x300.png" class="attachment-woocommerce_thumbnail size-woocommerce_thumbnail" alt="Addressing the Century" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Addressing-300x300.png 300w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Addressing-100x100.png 100w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Addressing-600x600.png 600w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Addressing-150x150.png 150w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Addressing-440x440.png 440w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Addressing-768x768.png 768w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Addressing.png 900w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /> <span class="product-title">Addressing the Century: 100 Years of Art and Fashion (1998)</span> </a> </li> <li> <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/source-database/global-fashion/europe/100-dresses-2010/" data-wpel-link="internal"> <img width="300" height="300" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/100-Dresses-300x300.png" class="attachment-woocommerce_thumbnail size-woocommerce_thumbnail" alt="100 Dresses cover" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/100-Dresses-300x300.png 300w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/100-Dresses-100x100.png 100w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/100-Dresses-600x600.png 600w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/100-Dresses-150x150.png 150w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/100-Dresses-440x440.png 440w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/100-Dresses-768x768.png 768w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/100-Dresses.png 900w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /> <span class="product-title">100 Dresses: The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art (2010)</span> </a> <div class="star-rating" role="img" aria-label="Rated 5.00 out of 5"><span style="width:100%">Rated <strong class="rating">5.00</strong> out of 5</span></div> </li> <li> <a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/source-database/global-fashion/europe/paris-refashioned-2017/" data-wpel-link="internal"> <img width="300" height="300" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-Hill-300x300.png" class="attachment-woocommerce_thumbnail size-woocommerce_thumbnail" alt="Paris Refashioned cover" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-Hill-300x300.png 300w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-Hill-100x100.png 100w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-Hill-600x600.png 600w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-Hill-150x150.png 150w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-Hill-440x440.png 440w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-Hill-768x768.png 768w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-Hill-1080x1080.png 1080w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-Hill.png 1200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /> <span class="product-title">Paris Refashioned, 1957-1968 (2017)</span> </a> </li> </ul></div> <!-- end .et_pb_widget --> </div> <div class="et_pb_extra_column even column-4"> <div id="recent-posts-widget-with-thumbnails-4" class="et_pb_widget recent-posts-widget-with-thumbnails"> <div id="rpwwt-recent-posts-widget-with-thumbnails-4" class="rpwwt-widget"> <h4 class="widgettitle">RECENT BLOG POSTS</h4> <ul> <li><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/we-were-there-harlie-des-roches/" data-wpel-link="internal"><img width="75" height="75" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/Albrecht_Dürer_-_The_Negress_Katherina_-_WGA07097-copy-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-90x75 size-90x75 wp-post-image" alt="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/Albrecht_Dürer_-_The_Negress_Katherina_-_WGA07097-copy-150x150.jpg 150w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/Albrecht_Dürer_-_The_Negress_Katherina_-_WGA07097-copy-440x440.jpg 440w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/Albrecht_Dürer_-_The_Negress_Katherina_-_WGA07097-copy-300x300.jpg 300w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/Albrecht_Dürer_-_The_Negress_Katherina_-_WGA07097-copy-100x100.jpg 100w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 75px) 100vw, 75px" /><span class="rpwwt-post-title">We Were There: Harlie Des Roches on the Black Presence in Renaissance Europe</span></a><div class="rpwwt-post-categories">In 16th century, BIPOC, blog</div></li> <li><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/hymn-to-apollo/" data-wpel-link="internal"><img width="75" height="75" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/19ecd49b-70db-4e74-b149-7d7d5b99e9d9-1-150x150.jpeg" class="attachment-90x75 size-90x75 wp-post-image" alt="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/19ecd49b-70db-4e74-b149-7d7d5b99e9d9-1-150x150.jpeg 150w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/19ecd49b-70db-4e74-b149-7d7d5b99e9d9-1-200x200.jpeg 200w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/19ecd49b-70db-4e74-b149-7d7d5b99e9d9-1-64x64.jpeg 64w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/19ecd49b-70db-4e74-b149-7d7d5b99e9d9-1-26x26.jpeg 26w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/19ecd49b-70db-4e74-b149-7d7d5b99e9d9-1-440x440.jpeg 440w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/19ecd49b-70db-4e74-b149-7d7d5b99e9d9-1-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/19ecd49b-70db-4e74-b149-7d7d5b99e9d9-1-100x100.jpeg 100w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 75px) 100vw, 75px" /><span class="rpwwt-post-title">Hymn to Apollo: The Ancient World and the Ballets Russes</span></a><div class="rpwwt-post-categories">In 1900-1909, 1910-1919, 20th century, blog</div></li> <li><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/frida-kahlo-appearances-can-be-deceiving/" data-wpel-link="internal"><img width="75" height="75" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/el176-167-fk-frida-idol-muray-archive-copy-1549054272-copy-copy-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-90x75 size-90x75 wp-post-image" alt="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/el176-167-fk-frida-idol-muray-archive-copy-1549054272-copy-copy-150x150.jpg 150w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/el176-167-fk-frida-idol-muray-archive-copy-1549054272-copy-copy-200x200.jpg 200w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/el176-167-fk-frida-idol-muray-archive-copy-1549054272-copy-copy-64x64.jpg 64w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/el176-167-fk-frida-idol-muray-archive-copy-1549054272-copy-copy-26x26.jpg 26w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/el176-167-fk-frida-idol-muray-archive-copy-1549054272-copy-copy-440x440.jpg 440w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/el176-167-fk-frida-idol-muray-archive-copy-1549054272-copy-copy-300x300.jpg 300w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/el176-167-fk-frida-idol-muray-archive-copy-1549054272-copy-copy-100x100.jpg 100w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 75px) 100vw, 75px" /><span class="rpwwt-post-title">Frida Kahlo: Appearances Can Be Deceiving</span></a><div class="rpwwt-post-categories">In 1930-1939, 20th century, blog</div></li> <li><a href="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/costume-in-poland/" data-wpel-link="internal"><img width="75" height="75" src="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Untitledcropped-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-90x75 size-90x75 wp-post-image" alt="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" srcset="https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Untitledcropped-150x150.jpg 150w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Untitledcropped-200x200.jpg 200w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Untitledcropped-64x64.jpg 64w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Untitledcropped-26x26.jpg 26w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Untitledcropped-440x440.jpg 440w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Untitledcropped-300x300.jpg 300w, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Untitledcropped-100x100.jpg 100w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 75px) 100vw, 75px" /><span class="rpwwt-post-title">Grand Opening of the Museum of Historical Costume in Poznan, Poland</span></a><div class="rpwwt-post-categories">In 1880-1889, 19th century, blog</div></li> </ul> </div><!-- .rpwwt-widget --> </div> <!-- end .et_pb_widget --> </div> </div> </div> <div id="footer-bottom"> <div class="container"> <!-- Footer Info --> <p id="footer-info">Designed by <a href="http://www.elegantthemes.com" title="Premium WordPress Themes" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">Elegant Themes</a> | Powered by <a href="http://www.wordpress.org" data-wpel-link="external" target="_blank" rel="external noopener noreferrer">WordPress</a></p> <!-- Footer Navigation --> <div id="footer-nav"> <ul id="footer-menu" class="bottom-nav"><li id="menu-item-3279" class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type 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