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Transcript: The oldest cuisine in the world (2024)
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data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" style="display:block" data-ad-format="auto" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-adtest="off" > </ins> <script> (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script> </div> <article class="article-detail"> <section class="entry-content paragraph"><article data-attribute="article-content-body" data-component="article-content-body"><p><em>This is an audio transcript of the </em><span>Life and Art from FT Weekend</span><em> podcast episode: ‘</em><span>The oldest cuisine in the world</span><em>’</em></p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Hi, listeners, this is Lilah. I am jumping on before we begin, because it’s that time of the year, an annual tradition where we prepare for our predictions episode. As you may remember, this is where we look back on last year’s cultural predictions and predict what we think will happen culturally next year. We always do it with our great friend and FT Magazine editor-at-large Matt Vella. So we want your suggestions. What do you think 2025 will look like when it comes to music, film, sports, books, the arts? Send me your predictions by email, I’m lilahrap@ft.com. Also on Instagram, I’m @lilahrap. L-I-L-A-H-R-A-P, and it’s our last one. So, I don’t know, enjoy it extra. OK. On with the show. </p><p>Welcome to <em>Life and Art from FT Weekend</em>. I’m Lilah Raptopoulos. If you go to the Yale University Library, you will find four clay tablets that are about 3,700 years old. They hold the oldest recorded recipes in history. Stews, breads, pies. They’re from Mesopotamia, which makes up parts of present-day Iran, Iraq, Syria and eastern Turkey. And they were likely written down by the Assyrians. </p><p>You probably know about the Assyrian empire. They ruled way back before the Ottomans, the Romans and the Greeks. They’re known for their early libraries. But what you may not know is that there are still 3mn-5mn Assyrians living in diaspora around the world today. This cuisine is amazing because it’s so ancient. My family are Greeks and Armenians from eastern Turkey right around this region. And I’ve always been obsessed with its food because this is the birthplace of so many things that we eat and drink all the time, of wine, beer, cheese, bread. It’s the literal Fertile Crescent. </p><p>So when a cookbook came out this year called <em>The Oldest Kitchen in the World</em>, I couldn’t wait to cook from it. Its writer, Matay de Mayee, has collected the recipes of his mother, Smuni Turan, recipes that her ancestors have been passing down orally for centuries. Matay and Smuni are with me in the studio today, visiting from the Netherlands where they live. Hi to you both. Welcome to the show.</p><p><strong>Smuni Turan <br></strong>Thank you.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Thank you for having us.<div class="sm:flex sm:items-center sm:justify-center sm:flex-row sm:space-x-1 insert" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;"><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div></p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Thanks for being here. So I should say Smuni doesn’t speak English. She speaks Dutch and Aramaic and Turkish. So Matay, I’ll ask you most of the questions and maybe you can translate as we go. Cool.</p><p>OK, so why don’t we start this interview the same way that you probably start a lot of your interviews? Can you tell me a little bit about the Assyrian people — where they’re from, what the back story is? Yeah.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>The Assyrians, they have several names. They’re known for, like, Chaldeans or Syriacs. For example, in Germany they talk about Arameans. But yeah, these people, they are indigenous to the Middle East. And they’ve been persecuted for a long, long time. That’s the dark side of our history. But if you go a little bit further in time, you’ll find that these people had a very comprehensive and rich culture, both intellectual and cultural, but also in terms of food, culinary-wise. So agriculture was developed first in Mesopotamia and then especially, specifically in the northern part, which is called Assyria and the art of cooking is also developed or invented in this region.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Isn’t it crazy that agriculture, just as a word, was invented in this area? Yes. And cooking. Yeah. Tell me the story about the oldest recipes in the world, about finding that out and . . . </p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah, well, I was cooking with my mother and listening to her stories. I was thinking, let’s deep dive a little bit more in our heritage and our culture. And then I found out that, I think in 1927, there were four clay tablets found in cuneiforms and on these clay tables, once they were translated, they found out over 35 recipes on these clay tablets.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>What is cuneiform?</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Cuneiform is . . . It’s not just spoken language, but it was the written language. And the written language in the Assyrian empire was not for the normal people but more for the established. Yeah. They could read that and write it. Yeah.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>And so when the recipes were deciphered, they realised or we found out, you know, thousands of years later that people were using ingredients like lamb and onion and beets and leeks and beer and even cumin and coriander. It’s really wild that those existed and were being used. And I imagine you found a lot of direct lines from those ancient recipes to what your mother cooks.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yes, That was one of the things that I have found out. And what I’m trying to visualise in this book or writing this book is to show the link between the recipes that were written there with the kitchen of my mom. </p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Yeah.What surprised you? What did you see that surprised you or interested you that were similar? What sorts of things?<div class="sm:flex sm:items-center sm:justify-center sm:flex-row sm:space-x-1 insert" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;"><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div></p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Well, for example, one of the recipes that my mom still makes — it’s not my favourite recipe, but it is among the generation of my mom —is the stuffed intestines.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Yes.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah. And basically, that is actually the first sausage in the world ever created, right?</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Right.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>My mom, she still loves them. And she . . . Yeah, she buys the intestines and they are like seven metres long right from sheep. And then she stuffs them, like minced meat and a lot of parsley and garlic and also some wheat, some bulgur.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Yeah. Bulgur.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah. And you’ve got a basically beautiful mix in the stuffing, and they look like sausages, right? And then she cuts them in pieces and then she boils them.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>I never thought of stuffed intestines as early sausages. That’s true. It’s its casing. Yeah, yeah.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>If you look at those recipes, they are not full recipes as we know recipes in cookbooks nowadays. The way they make it or how long they need to be prepared, you won’t find it in those recipes. </p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Right. But that’s interesting because, like, we’ve been, I mean, everyone who makes a meatball puts some sort of like a wheat or a bulgur or something into that filling, or breadcrumbs to keep it, like, its shape. That’s over, you know, 55,000 years old. Wow. This must have been fun.<div class="sm:flex sm:items-center sm:justify-center sm:flex-row sm:space-x-1 insert" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;"><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div></p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah, because, once you read it and then you don’t realise that it was already used at that time, right? The ingredient and like, the technique. Yeah. You take all these things for granted, but then if you deep dive a little bit more in history and you think, wow, those people were inventing it, yeah.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>They were inventing . . . even modern cuisine. Yeah. I want to get to the recipes in your cookbook soon, but before I do, I should say that as you mentioned earlier, the modern-day history of Assyrians is tragic for many of the same reasons that the Armenian history is tragic. Both of our cultures survived the persecution and genocide under the Ottoman Empire and Young Turks in 1915. Do you know much about how your family was able to survive?</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>I know a part of it, and then I thought I knew it completely but while writing this book, talking to my mom, then I realised that her mother and her grandfather were the only survivors from my mother’s side. I never realised that the brothers and sisters of my grandma, the mother of my mother, were persecuted. And I never knew that the grandpa of my mother and his second wife was Armenian. Yeah, I never knew that my grandmother was Armenian from my mother’s side. Yeah.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Can I ask you to translate a question for your mother? </p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Sure. Yeah. <div class="bg-primary-100 rounded-lg my-6 px-2 py-3 font-semibold insert" style="color: rgb(37, 99, 235)"><div class="text-common !leading-common ml-1 insert" style="margin-top: 0.2rem; margin-bottom: 0.2rem">See Also</div><a class="list-item toc-h2 py-1" style="border-bottom: none" href="https://juxtasoftware.com/article/slaughter-practices-of-different-faiths-in-different-countries/7318" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Slaughter practices of different faiths in different countries</a></div></p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>I imagine food is important for you as a way to keep the culture alive. Is that true?</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language]</p><p><strong>Smuni Turan </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language]</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah. My mom is saying that the traditional food that she’s making is key for her to have that connection with her roots. And to have that connection, it means to her that she feels better in her overall wellbeing. The food that she’s making, she learned from her mother and her mother from her grandmother. And they were all passed down orally. Yeah. She feels very responsible to pass that on.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Yeah. Yeah. <div class="sm:flex sm:items-center sm:justify-center sm:flex-row sm:space-x-1 insert" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;"><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div></p><p>[MUSIC PLAYING]</p><p>Should we talk about some recipes? OK. So I would love to start with one that I know is very important to your family. It’s on the cover of the book. It is called kutle. It’s called kutle. It is similar to kibbeh, right? I think other cultures might call this dish kibbeh.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah, they call it kibbeh. So it has a lot of similarities. The only difference that we have and which I like better is that we serve them with butter.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Oh, you batter them? Yeah.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah, we batter them with butter. And then we fry them.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>OK. All right. OK, so what it is, just for listeners who don’t know, is basically it’s almost like an ancient dumpling. It’s a bulgur crust with meat inside. It’s almost like a like a meatball wrapped in bulgur. Or you could think of it as a sort of . . . </p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Wheat pouch, yeah.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos </strong><br>A wheat pouch, right, with bulgur inside. They are about, I don’t know, the size of your hand or so. And they’re delicious. You cut it open and it steams out and they’re just like kind of packets of insanity. Other cultures’ versions of it, the Turks and Armenians call it içli köfte. The Greeks call it koupes. Yeah. So can you tell me how to make it?</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah. So the filling consists of parsley, onion and garlic. And then we have a few other ingredients in there. It’s mostly herbs. So you can put a little bit of mint in there. You can add a little bit of cumin if you want. And you need lean and nimble fingers, yeah, to make it.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>So it sounds like the most sort of important part of this is really time and . . . <div class="sm:flex sm:items-center sm:justify-center sm:flex-row sm:space-x-1 insert" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;"><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div></p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Patience . . . </p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Patience, time, and also experience, right? You really need to do that, sort of shape each of those balls right, that you place there.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>It’s actually this signature dish of the Assyrians, right? Yeah. And we all love them. Everyone knows them. And it’s also nice to do it together because back in the day, my mom and also my grandma and the women come together and not only cooking together, but it’s also the moment to share rumours that they’ve heard.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Oh, right. Gossip. Yeah.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Gossips, yeah. And they make them in big quantities. Yeah. And it’s a festive dish. It’s for social gatherings and festivities. This will be always on the menu. I love them. I remember with my six brothers and sisters, we will be on a table with a staple of, for example, like 70 up to 100 of these pouches . . . </p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Oh, wow.A hundred of these kutle must have taken all day.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>It does. Yeah. Yeah.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Can I ask Smuni? What is the secret? What should we know if we are making kutle?</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language]</p><p><strong>Smuni Turan </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language]<div class="sm:flex sm:items-center sm:justify-center sm:flex-row sm:space-x-1 insert" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;"><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div></p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>She’s using kind of two finger . . . You’re using two fingers to sort of show how you open the pouch . . . </p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>So there’s a two-finger technique and you dip your fingers wet.</p><p><strong>Smuni Turan </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language] (Laughter)</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>So the best advice of my mom is start early. Like, she was eight years old when she started because her mom warned her and reminded her all the time that if you don’t learn this dish, you’ll never find someone who wants to marry you. So start early.(Laughter)</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>So start early. Learn how to do it right, or you won’t find your husband. Good. </p><p>[MUSIC PLAYING]</p><p>OK. The second thing I want to ask you both about is yoghurt. I know that Smuni makes homemade yoghurt. Katiro — is that how you . . . </p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah. Katiro</p><p><strong>Smuni Turan <br></strong>Katiro. Yeah.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Katiro. Yoghurt is one of the oldest dairy products in the world. It originates, it won’t surprise listeners to know, from this region, from Mesopotamia. The Armenians like to claim that they brought it to America in the 1920s. But something I think that a lot of Americans and Brits don’t know is that you can easily make yoghurt at home. A lot of Assyrian families and Armenian and Greek families make it at home and there’s always some yoghurt starter in the fridge. And my grandmother used to, like is in this recipe, sort of cover the yoghurt as it was being made in blankets or in sweaters to keep it warm as the bacteria fermented. Tell me about yoghurt. How do you make this yoghurt?<div class="sm:flex sm:items-center sm:justify-center sm:flex-row sm:space-x-1 insert" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;"><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div></p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Oh, the yoghurt is very exciting to make because as a child, my mom, she would have a pan, fill it up with milk — milk that she just bought from the farmer — and she would cover it with a blanket, and then we would go to bed. And then early morning, we would wake up to go to school. And then suddenly this liquid turned into yoghurt. It’s just magic, right? And then the taste, I mean, this is one of the products that the taste is so much different than what you buy in the grocery store. And yeah, I love this recipe. So, yeah, basically, you don’t need that much. You go to a farmer and you buy the milk, right?</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Good milk. Don’t just get bad supermarket milk . . . </p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>No, no, no. You buy it from the farmer, you need it as fresh as possible. So I know from a place that I grew up on the eastern part of the Netherlands, we go to our farmer and the cows produce two times a day with milk. And literally just a few seconds after they gave the milk, you buy a can, you go home, and then you boil it. Boil, boil, boil, until a certain heat. And I explain it in the book as well how you know when it’s hot enough. And then once you reach that level, you put a scoop of yoghurt in there — this can be any yoghurt, yoghurt from the supermarket, but if you make yoghurt that often, you can use the yoghurt that you’ve got at home.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>The old yoghurt from the last batch, basically. Yeah.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Exactly. Yeah. And then you keep on cooking. And then, yeah, once it’s boil again, you let it cool down. And then you cover it with a blanket. Yeah. And then you put it somewhere in a dark corner.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>It’s so funny you just have this kind of living thing in the corner covered in a blanket. Can you tell her about my grandmother who used to cover her yoghurt?</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language]</p><p><strong>Smuni Turan </strong><br>Yeah . . . [Speaking in foreign language]</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Yeah. Can you . . . And then I just wanted to ask as one follow up, you said that it tastes different than what you can buy at the supermarket. What’s different about it? How would you explain the difference? It is better.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language]<div class="sm:flex sm:items-center sm:justify-center sm:flex-row sm:space-x-1 insert" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;"><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div></p><p><strong>Smuni Turan </strong><br>Yeah . . . [Speaking in foreign language]</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>She looks . . . insinuates, disgusted.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Because she says the taste from the supermarket is not as rich and the structure is not as silky as the organic we have. Yeah.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>It is a little tangier, too, I think. It’s a little stronger, the taste. I like it better.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Maybe a little bit sour. Yeah. It’s beautiful. Yeah.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Yeah. Yeah. You can take that yoghurt and then make a number of things, right? You could make a yoghurt sort of drink. You can make a labaniyeh. Yeah, which is a very old . . . </p><p><strong>Smuni Turan </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language]</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah, she’s saying, the drink.Yeah, yoghurt drink . . . </p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Yes, which is a very ancient . . . There’s the yoghurt with hold wheat in it, the breakfast food</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah. All of that.<div class="sm:flex sm:items-center sm:justify-center sm:flex-row sm:space-x-1 insert" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;"><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div></p><p><strong>Smuni Turan </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language]</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Or sometimes we dip it just with bread.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos </strong><br>Oh, really?</p><p><strong>Smuni Turan </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language]</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos </strong><br>Just dip the bread in the yoghurt and eat it. Yeah.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Sometimes I have it as a dish as well, the fresh yoghurt and then the warm bread that my mom makes and it’s an excellent combination. And then we have also a really nice dips, with dill, cucumber.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Right, like tzatziki.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Like tzatziki, yeah. And it’s good that you mentioned it because often, in all these books, I mean, you see overlap, right, between the Greek and the Turkish and the Lebanese cuisine. There’s slightly differences, but the only thing that I never found in these cookbooks was calling these recipes by the name that we have, right?And that’s what I found difficult often in these books that they are not called in Assyrian, in the names that we grew up with. </p><p>That’s what I’ve tried to do in this book — give them the names that I was raised with for these recipes and, yeah, finally I see now recipes with the names that are familiar to me and to many of us, of our people. And it’s nice. And my dream would be that one of these recipes with these names are also on a menu in a restaurant.</p><p>[MUSIC PLAYING]<div class="sm:flex sm:items-center sm:justify-center sm:flex-row sm:space-x-1 insert" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;"><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div></p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>As we wrap up, I have a few kind of bigger-picture questions for both of you. One is, you say at the beginning of the cookbook you have this beautiful quote, which is, you say, my mother is essentially the author of this cookbook. However, there’s one small problem. My mother grew up in a place and time when girls didn’t learn to read or write. Therefore, I am writing it on her behalf. I guess I’m wondering sort of where you think and where does she think, where those recipes have been held in your mother, like in her hands, in her head . . . They must be so instinctual as she’s passed them down. And I’m wondering if you can reflect on that a little.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah, I’ve been always surprised by the number of all these recipes just being in one, someone’s head. Right?How is that possible without going to internet or reading, you know, a recipe in a newspaper? They are just in all the heads of all these, all these women. Isn’t that interesting?</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>It’s amazing.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>I read an article about people who are not able to read nor write. They seem to be excellent in memory, and memories of, for example, recipes. But they’re also great storytellers. That reminded me of my mom because she’s really good in both storytelling and listening. And also her memories are very strong. And I think for my mom, like going through step by step through a recipe, which was not common for her because it all goes automatically in and, you know, she comes up with all these amazing dishes within 10 minutes. And just for me to write down one recipe took a few hours. And I was asking all these questions, why and how and what’s the measurement, pushed her also to think about it. And then I was like, what’s the story behind this recipe? When would you eat it? What time of the day? It reminded her also of her childhood. And she was sharing her losses and happinesses during these stories.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>What was it like for you to learn these stories through this cooking process together?</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>They were, for me, very, very important, but I realised only when I was writing the book. Before I heard a lot of stories from my parents or from my mother, and in my childhood I was a little bit reluctant. I was like, mom, stop telling all these stories. I don’t know what to do with it. I don’t understand them. Don’t bother me with these stories. (Smuni laughs) But during this book, they were so important for me because they, yeah, everything came together. All the recipes, they have an introduction and I write the history and then you understand how rich and comprehensive our culture is. And it tells a lot about myself, even about my identity, which I wasn’t always aware of. And now I’m just embracing that.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>What made your mother laugh? Is it that you guys weren’t interested in her cooking until you became adults?</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah. She’s got seven children and we all, until a few years ago . . . And I mean, that’s also on behalf of a lot of other kids from my generation, right? Yeah. Like, the feedback that I had, they’re all so happy that everything is written down, that they can cook the food their mothers make as well.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Smuni, what do you think about the fact that your children didn’t care about your cooking and now they all want to know it and write it down?</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language]<div class="sm:flex sm:items-center sm:justify-center sm:flex-row sm:space-x-1 insert" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;"><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div></p><p><strong>Smuni Turan </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language]</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>Yeah. She’s very, very thankful, grateful and happy that not only her children know, but also everyone, for example, in the Netherlands know about us, because often if you see a list with minorities, it’s always in this chapter “other”, where we are. And now, you know, with all the press that we received, we are mentioned by our names. And it’s good that people know that we are there and become also aware of our history.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Yeah, yeah. That’s very beautiful. I find this very moving that it is all written down. Yeah. </p><p>Smuni, I wanted to ask you what it’s like to think about the journey you made from rural Turkey to sitting in this studio in New York with your recipes published in English with your son. What is it like for you? What are you thinking on this trip?</p><p><strong>Smuni Turan </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language]</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee </strong><br>[Speaking in foreign language]</p><p><strong>Smuni Turan <br></strong>Yes . . . In New York, in this studio . . . </p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Smuni just blew me a kiss.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>You can hear in her voice, she’s still very emotional about it. And growing up in a time without any electricity and running water, without chairs, without a table. And now, you know, just walking and signing this Monday on Fifth Avenue, who could have ever imagined? But it is possible. Yeah. And all these, all these ladies have beautiful stories to tell. And I’m really, really happy that I could be one of the persons to give them a voice in this book.</p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Yeah. I think there are many moving things to me about this book, but the most is that part of what’s hard about this region, or so emotional about this region, is that it’s a region that’s hard for a lot of people who are from there to go back to. What’s, when they go back, the culture that was there is not the same. Much of it is lost. <div class="sm:flex sm:items-center sm:justify-center sm:flex-row sm:space-x-1 insert" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;"><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script><ins class="adsbygoogle sm:w-1/2" style="display:block; text-align:center;" data-ad-layout="in-article" data-ad-format="fluid" data-full-width-responsive="true" data-ad-slot="9194510535" data-ad-client="ca-pub-9900459938067640" data-adtest="off"></ins><script>(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});</script></div></p><p>So I think a lot, for our cultures have that in common, is that there are all these ways that we’re trying to keep it alive. And this book does that so beautifully. And so it’s such an honour to have both of you on the show. Thank you for being here.</p><p><strong>Smuni Turan <br></strong>Thank you.</p><p><strong>Matay de Mayee <br></strong>You’re welcome. </p><p><strong>Lilah Raptopoulos <br></strong>Thanks.</p><p>[MUSIC PLAYING]</p><p>That’s the show. Thank you for listening to <em>Life and Art from FT Weekend</em>. I’ve included more information on the oldest cookbook in the world in the show notes. Also in the show notes are ways to send me your predictions. You can email me at lilahrap@ft.com. Message me on Instagram @lilahrap. I can’t wait to read them. </p><p>I’m Lilah Raptopoulos and here’s our wonderful team. Katya Kumkova is our senior producer. Lulu Smyth is our producer. Our sound engineers are Joe Salcedo, Sam Giovinco and Breen Turner, with original music by Metaphor Music. Topher Forhecz is our executive producer and our global head of audio is Cheryl Brumley. 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