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button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 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xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media (-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23999'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 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button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' 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class="article-headline__collection"><div class="article-labels b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300"><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710025516/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/places-that-dont-belong"><span>Places That Don't Belong</span><span class="article-labels__delimiter b-font-weight-300"> | </span></a><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220710025516/https://www.bbc.com/travel/tags/borders">Borders</a></div></div><div class="article-headline__text b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300" tabindex="-1">Europe's island that swaps nationalities</div><div class="article-share-tools"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/mailto:/?subject=Shared from BBC:Europe's%20island%20that%20swaps%20nationalities&body=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bbc.com%2Ftravel%2Farticle%2F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities%3Focid%3Dww.social.link.email" class="email-icon gelicon--mail" 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media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cj91l5.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cj91l5.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91l5.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91l5.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cj91l5.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cj91l5.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="(Credit: EQRoy/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91l5.jpg" alt="(Credit: EQRoy/Alamy)" id=""/></picture></div></div><div class="article__container"><div class="article__main"><div class="article__subcontainer"><article class="article__body"><div class="article__author-unit"><div class="author-unit"><div class="author-unit__container author-unit__container--desktop"><a class="author-unit__text b-font-family-serif" target="" rel="" id="">By Mike MacEacheran</a><span class="b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300">7th July 2022</span></div><div class="author-unit__line"><div class="styled-line styled-line--dark-grey styled-line--large"></div></div></div></div><div class="article__body-content"><div class="article__intro b-font-family-serif">Pheasant Island, located between France and Spain, bizarrely changes countries twice a year. But why?</div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="drop-capped b-reith-sans-font drop-capped--travel">F</div><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--drop-capped body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p class="Default">From the sublime viewpoints above <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://www.sansebastianturismoa.eus/en/" target="_blank">San Sebastián</a> in the Basque Country, a hiker can see one of the world's oldest, most romantic, most biblical of paths. The <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20190411-the-camino-de-santiagos-ancient-secret" target="_blank">Camino de Santiago pilgrimage</a> passes this way, and the Homerian traverse to Saint James' tomb in the far western corner of northern Spain is well-trodden, proselytising many and capturing minds for centuries.</p> <p class="Default">Each year, long-distance hikers and pilgrims come here in their hundreds of thousands, but I was not one of them. Instead of the cracked valleys winding towards churches, my destination was somewhere else entirely. A strange, uninhabited place called Pheasant Island.</p> <p class="Default">Looking to understand Spain's <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://tourism.euskadi.eus/en/" target="_blank">Basque Country</a> better, I accidentally stumbled upon the two-acre sliver of land while browsing through illustrated maps of the Western Pyrenees. Sheltered in the borderlands between <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://www.hendaye-tourisme.fr/en/" target="_blank">Hendaye, France</a>, and <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://tourism.euskadi.eus/en/towns/irun/aa30-12375/en/" target="_blank">Irun, Spain</a>, on the Bidasoa river flowing to the Bay of Biscay, the perplexing island is presided over by each nation for six months in turn and is a historical record of the rivalry between the countries.</p> <p class="Default">Border irregularities are found throughout Europe – and the world – but a 200m-long island that swaps countries biannually is unfathomably odd. And few, curiously, know much about Pheasant Island at all.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--landscape"><div id="travel/article/20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-p0cj91kl"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cj91kl.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cj91kl.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cj91kl.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cj91kl.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91kl.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91kl.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cj91kl.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cj91kl.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="Pheasant Island is located on the Bidasoa River between Hendaye, France, and Irun, Spain (Credit: Agefotostock/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91kl.jpg" alt="Pheasant Island is located on the Bidasoa River between Hendaye, France, and Irun, Spain (Credit: Agefotostock/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">Pheasant Island is located on the Bidasoa River between Hendaye, France, and Irun, Spain (Credit: Agefotostock/Alamy)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p>I learnt this much before I arrived to see the mysterious island for myself this spring. I was in the company of P<strong>í</strong>a Alkain Sorondo, an archaeologist who now leads <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://www.bidatour.com/" target="_blank">walking tours</a> of the region, and, like most people in this part of Spain, she feels a duty to keep the histories of the Basque Country alive. No matter how unusual they might be.</p> <p class="Default">"I love telling the story of our heritage," Sorondo told me, as we strolled along the French-Spanish border east of San Sebastián, and, in a way, back in time. Behind us was a collection of industrial lots, apartments and tapas-like <em>pinxtos</em> bars, but in front of us were archaeological Roman remains of an ancient bridge and the bygone island itself. "There is medieval history hidden all along this riverbank, but most people walk by here without knowing any of it. That's what I'm trying to change."</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__pull-quote"><blockquote class="inline-quote b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 inline-quote--travel"><h2 class="simple-header b-reith-sans-font b-font-family-serif b-font-weight-300 simple-header--serif-light-italic simple-p-tag--medium simple-p-tag--quote">To learn the backstory here is like a discovery. It is almost a ghost island</h2></blockquote></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p class="Default">When we reached our destination, a riverside park facing the isle, we were greeted by a sight like few others. Pheasant Island, browed with trees and elliptical in shape, lies just 10m from the Spanish side of the river and 20m from the French. It's of such historical importance that it's only rarely opened to visitors. At the centre was an enormous, inscribed monolith, shaped like a cenotaph, that gave a sense of the weight of centuries of history to the place. Tomb-like and grandstanding, it commemorates the meeting where the <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://www.britannica.com/event/Peace-of-the-Pyrenees" target="_blank">Treaty of the Pyrenees</a> was negotiated in 1659.</p> <p class="Default">"To learn the backstory here is like a discovery," Sorondo told me. "It is almost a ghost island." </p> <p class="Default">Throughout history, there has been a succession of different monikers for Pheasant Island. For starters, today's name – Isla de los Faisanes in Spanish, Faisai Uhartea in Basque, Île des Faisans in French – is a mistake. "There are no pheasants on Pheasant Island," complained French novelist Victor Hugo when he visited in 1843. In fact, there are only green crested mallards and migratory birds.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--square"><div id="travel/article/20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-p0cj91j9"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:624px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1024x1024/p0cj91j9.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:624px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1024x1024/p0cj91j9.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x976/p0cj91j9.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x976/p0cj91j9.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x624/p0cj91j9.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x624/p0cj91j9.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="At the centre of the island, a monument commemorates the meeting where the Treaty of the Pyrenees was negotiated in 1659 (Credit: Mike MacEacheran)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x624/p0cj91j9.jpg" alt="At the centre of the island, a monument commemorates the meeting where the Treaty of the Pyrenees was negotiated in 1659 (Credit: Mike MacEacheran)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">At the centre of the island, a monument commemorates the meeting where the Treaty of the Pyrenees was negotiated in 1659 (Credit: Mike MacEacheran)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p class="Default">In Roman times, the island was known as "Pausoa", the Basque word for passage or step. Then the French translated this as "Paysans", meaning peasant, before transposing it as "Faisans", for pheasant. Over time, the name Île des Faisans stuck.</p> <p class="Default">The humble island finally came into prominence in 1648, following a ceasefire at the end of the <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m0001fv2" target="_blank">Thirty Years' War</a> between France and Spain, when it was chosen as a neutral space to demarcate the new borderlands. In fact, 24 summits took place, with military escorts on standby should talks breakdown. Eleven years later, the Treaty of the Pyrenees peace accord was struck.</p> <p class="Default">To honour the occasion, a royal wedding was mooted, and, in 1660, French King Louis XIV married the daughter of King Philip IV, Maria Theresa of Spain, on the spot of the declaration. Wooden bridges were built to ease passage, royal parties arrived in state barges and carriages, and tapestries and paintings were commissioned. Diego Velázquez, court painter to Philip and whose magnum opus remains <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://www.museodelprado.es/en/the-collection/art-work/las-meninas/9fdc7800-9ade-48b0-ab8b-edee94ea877f" target="_blank">Las Meninas</a> (a portrait of Margaret Theresa with her maids of honour) was put in charge of arranging much of the festivities.</p> <p class="Default">So symbolic was Pheasant Island as a metaphor of peace, in fact, that it was decided both countries would have joint custody of the territory. Spain would hold stewardship from 1 February to 31 July each year, while Pheasant Island would become an official part of France for the other six months. In that moment, the world's smallest condominium was born.</p> <p class="Default">By definition, condominiums are places determined by the presence of at least more than one sovereign state. The sense is derived from Latin, with "com" implying "together" and "dominium" meaning "right of ownership". And over the centuries, numerous countries have become embroiled in geographic tug o' wars over condominiums, with governments spending decades happily arguing the finer points of who owns what and why. Most aren't centres of empire, but rather experimental, geopolitical addendums.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--landscape"><div id="travel/article/20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-p0cj91hz"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cj91hz.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cj91hz.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cj91hz.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cj91hz.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91hz.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91hz.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cj91hz.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cj91hz.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="The Treaty of the Pyrenees peace accord, which was negotiated here, established the border between the two countries (Credit: Prisma Archivo/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91hz.jpg" alt="The Treaty of the Pyrenees peace accord, which was negotiated here, established the border between the two countries (Credit: Prisma Archivo/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">The Treaty of the Pyrenees peace accord, which was negotiated here, established the border between the two countries (Credit: Prisma Archivo/Alamy)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p class="Default">At least for now, there are eight in the world, including <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://www.bodensee.eu/en" target="_blank">Lake Constance</a>, the tridominium between Austria, Germany and Switzerland; the Brčko District shared by Bosnia and Herzegovina; and the disputed territory of the <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://www.vladars.net/eng/Pages/default.aspx" target="_blank">Republika Srpska</a>. Then there is the Joint Regime Area, a shared maritime zone between Colombia and Jamaica; and the Abyei Area contested by South Sudan and Sudan.</p> <p>Another is the Moselle river and its tributaries the Sauer and the Our – a riverine condominium shared between Germany and Luxembourg; while the Gulf of Fonseca is a tripartite condominium portioned up by Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua. Antarctica is the last but also the largest and most momentous, a theoretical continental condominium, governed by the 29 signatories of the Antarctic Treaty that have consulting status.</p> <p class="Default">On the day of my visit to Pheasant Island, the territory was in the hands of the Spanish. A group of kayakers was exploring its nooks from the water, and, on land, only one passer-by stopped to take photographs. Besides administering the gardening, maintaining the boat landing site, discussing fishing rights and monitoring the water quality, there isn't much for the Spanish to do on a month-to-month basis. Visitors are only allowed onto the island on rare occasions: either on one of the bi-annual handover days, when the island is abuzz with activity during the official ceremony, with flags, delegates, diplomats and plenty of formal pomp; or as part of ad-hoc, occasional heritage tours.</p> <p class="Default">One alarming development reverberating around the border communities, however, is the number of immigrants trying to illegally cross the river from Spain into France. The day before I arrived, a foreign national had drowned while attempting to swim across and, as Sorondo and I talked history and Basque politics, a police boat sifted through the waters looking for the body.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="article-body__image-text article-body__image-text--landscape"><div id="travel/article/20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-p0cj91hg"><div><picture><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cj91hg.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0cj91hg.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cj91hg.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0cj91hg.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91hg.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91hg.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cj91hg.webp" type="image/webp"/><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0cj91hg.jpg" type="image/jpeg"/><img draggable="false" title="The island is only opened to the public on one of the bi-annual handover days or as part of heritage tour (Credit: EQRoy/Alamy)" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516im_/https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0cj91hg.jpg" alt="The island is only opened to the public on one of the bi-annual handover days or as part of heritage tour (Credit: EQRoy/Alamy)" id=""/></picture><div class="inline-image__description b-reith-sans-font inline-image__description--desktop"><div class="text-summary"><p class="text-summary__text text-summary__text--grey text-summary__text--left">The island is only opened to the public on one of the bi-annual handover days or as part of heritage tour (Credit: EQRoy/Alamy)</p></div></div></div></div></div><div><div class="body-text-card b-reith-sans-font"><div class="body-text-card__text body-text-card__text--travel body-text-card__text--flush-text"><div><p class="Default">Current figures from <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://euskalherriaharreraherria.info/cas/quienes.html" target="_blank">Irungo Harrera Sarea</a>, Irun's NGO, estimates that up to 30 migrants arrive every day seeking safe passage north into France. As a tidal channel, the Bidasoa has an abrupt 3-4m height differential, with the river flowing up and downstream from the official border on the National Road bridge like a full-frontal attack.</p> <p class="Default">"This is still a place of new hope for so many," Sorondo said, "but it is also a death trap."</p> <p class="Default">With such sorrowful words lingering in the air, just one clinching thought played around in my head before I left. Pheasant Island may be an unremembered, historical footnote of an island. But in our ever-variegated, unpredictable world of border disagreements and land grabs, it is a symbol of peace and one that we should never forget.</p> <p><em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/http://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/places-that-dont-belong" target="_blank">Places That Don’t Belong</a> is a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.</em></p> <p class="Default">--</p> <p><em>Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on </em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://www.facebook.com/BBCTravel/" target="_blank">Facebook</a><em>, or follow us on </em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://twitter.com/BBC_Travel" target="_blank">Twitter</a><em> and </em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://www.instagram.com/bbc_travel/" target="_blank">Instagram</a><em>.</em></p> <p><em>If you liked this story, </em><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/http://pages.emails.bbc.com/subscribe/?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup" target="_blank">sign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter</a><em> called "The Essential List". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.</em></p></div></div></div></div><div class="article__end"><div class="article-end article-end--desktop"><div class="article-end__line--long"><div class="styled-line styled-line--travel styled-line--medium"></div></div><div class="article-end__share-tools"><div class="article-share-tools article-share-tools--popout article-share-tools--dark"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/mailto:/?subject=Shared from BBC:Europe's%20island%20that%20swaps%20nationalities&body=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bbc.com%2Ftravel%2Farticle%2F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities%3Focid%3Dww.social.link.email" class="email-icon gelicon--mail" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" id=""><span class="screen-reader-only">Share using Email</span><div id="EmailIcon"></div></a><a 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soldiers","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0829hbg","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0829hbg.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413144},"p0829hck":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0829hck","_id":"62b41e2d1f4b7b1a2e5bf5c7","copyright":"Matthias Schumann\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2457,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F82\u002F9h\u002Fp0829hck.jpg","sourceWidth":4368,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Matthias Schumann\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"An imperious statue of Lenin guards Transnistria’s Brutalist parliament building (Credit: Matthias Schumann\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"An imperious statue of Lenin guards Transnistria’s Brutalist parliament building","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0829hck.jpg","title":"An imperious statue of Lenin guards Transnistria’s Brutalist parliament building","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0829hck","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0829hck.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413144},"p0829hd1":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0829hd1","_id":"62b41e2e1f4b7b7e1073b081","copyright":"Sarah Reid","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2639,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F82\u002F9h\u002Fp0829hd1.jpg","sourceWidth":4692,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Sarah Reid)","synopsisMedium":"Makeshift boxing rinks are part of the fun on Independence Day (Credit: Sarah Reid)","synopsisShort":"Makeshift boxing rinks are part of the fun on Independence Day","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0829hd1.jpg","title":"Makeshift boxing rinks are part of the fun on Independence Day","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0829hd1","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0829hd1.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413144},"p0829hg4":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0829hg4","_id":"62b41e2d1f4b7b55d375759e","copyright":"Sarah Reid","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2797,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F82\u002F9h\u002Fp0829hg4.jpg","sourceWidth":4973,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Sarah Reid)","synopsisMedium":"On Independence Day, many locals wear colourfully embroidered traditional regional dress (Credit: Sarah Reid)","synopsisShort":"On Independence Day, many locals wear colourfully embroidered traditional regional dress","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0829hg4.jpg","title":"On Independence Day, many locals wear colourfully embroidered traditional regional dress","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0829hg4","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0829hg4.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413144},"p0829hgr":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0829hgr","_id":"62b41e2d1f4b7b062b0c02e5","copyright":"Sarah Reid","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2839,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F82\u002F9h\u002Fp0829hgr.jpg","sourceWidth":5046,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Sarah Reid)","synopsisMedium":"The 16th-Century Bendery Fort has on-site museums and views over the Dniester River (Credit: Sarah Reid)","synopsisShort":"The 16th-Century Bendery Fort has on-site museums and views over the Dniester River","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0829hgr.jpg","title":"The 16th-Century Bendery Fort has on-site museums and views over the Dniester River","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0829hgr","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0829hgr.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413144},"p0829hhz":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0829hhz","_id":"62b41e2e1f4b7b1ce85b54f3","copyright":"Loop Images\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":2869,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F82\u002F9h\u002Fp0829hhz.jpg","sourceWidth":5100,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Loop Images\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Celebrating a nation that doesn’t exist (Credit: Loop Images\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Celebrating a nation that doesn’t exist","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0829hhz.jpg","title":"Celebrating a nation that doesn’t exist","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0829hhz","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220710025516\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0829hhz.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413144}},"articles":{"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity","_id":"62b420331f4b7b2e3b5775d5","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flarry-bleiberg"],"bodyIntro":"Surrounded by Switzerland, but owned by Germany, the tiny enclave of Büsingen am Hochrhein has managed a binational existence for centuries.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites. Click \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fbest-of-bbc-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E for the full list).\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn 1 August, Switzerland’s National Day, summer holidaymakers are out in force. Flotillas of rafts and canoes bob along the Rhine River, sunbathers lay out on the grassy shore, and on the largely empty streets an occasional public bus rumbles by, decorated for the festivities with Switzerland’s familiar red flag with a white cross.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s a perfect holiday scene, except for one nagging detail. All this merrymaking marking the anniversary of Switzerland’s confederation is taking place in Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Our spirit and heart are Swiss","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“To make holidays here, it’s attractive,” explained Roland Güntert, deputy mayor of the town of Büsingen am Hochrhein in Germany. “This is just something you do. Our spirit and heart are Swiss.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe reason? This tiny spot of Germany is entirely surrounded by Switzerland, which makes it both an enclave and exclave, geographic oddities to trivia fans, but confounding to everyone else.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07npcfv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor the cartographically curious, an enclave is a territory or section of a territory completely surrounded by another entity – a prime example is the tiny nation of Lesotho encircled by South Africa. It’s closely related to an exclave: a portion of a territory separated from its main part by another territory. Büsingen meets both definitions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181014-uupis-a-tiny-republic-of-free-spirits\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny ‘nation’ you’ve never heard of\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEurope’s strange border anomaly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171105-the-us-canada-border-runs-through-this-tiny-library\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA town split between two countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe village’s eastern border lies a mere 700m from the rest of the Federal Republic of Germany. And while politically this town of about 1,450 inhabitants belongs to Germany, economically it’s part of Switzerland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJust like Switzerland, Büsingen operates outside of the European Union, and the town has been cited as a model for post-Brexit cooperation. Three years ago, a politician representing Belfast South suggested that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.irishtimes.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld\u002Fuk\u002Fa-few-in-westminster-begin-looking-at-border-controls-1.2730262\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorthern Ireland could be granted a special customs status\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, similar to the one governing Büsingen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs with Büsingen and Switzerland, there would be limited customs or immigration controls between Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland, proposed MP Alasdair McDonnell, meaning that Northern Ireland could leave the EU with Brexit but remain tied to the Republic of Ireland. “There is a precedent for this in the German town of Büsingen,” he said in a speech. Others, however, aren’t convinced, countering that the hamlet of Büsingen is hardly a stand-in for Northern Ireland, which has a population topping 1.8 million.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07npk37"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGüntert says at its heart, Büsingen’s arrangement is pretty simple. “We have German laws and German government, and on the other part, we have the Swiss economy.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENowhere is the division more evident than at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.waldheim-buesingen.ch\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERestaurant Waldheim\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A line painted across its outdoor dining terrace marks the international border, so it’s possible to be served a plate of schnitzel in Switzerland, and then reach into Germany to grab a stein of beer from the other side of the table.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStill, for residents, living a binational life brings up daily contradictions and choices. Although commerce is typically conducted in Swiss francs and most residents work in nearby, larger Swiss towns, they still must pay the higher German income taxes. Children go to a local (German) primary school, but parents decide in which country they’ll attend high school. Likewise, Büsingen locals have both German and Swiss postal and international telephone codes: callers can dial either Germany’s +49 or Switzerland’s +41, and still ring a resident. And perhaps most notably, the town’s football club is the only German team allowed to play in the Swiss league.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was all an adjustment for Sarah Biernat, who lives 30 minutes away in Singen, Germany, and crosses multiple international borders during her daily commute to Büsingen. She knew nothing about the area, having come to the town only once as a child for a dental appointment. Then, 11 years ago, she took a job at Büsingen’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Falte-rheinmuehle.ch\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlte Rheinmühle hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and on her first day of work found herself giving a customer change in Swiss francs. “It was like play money to me,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven a decade later, the town still feels and sounds Swiss to her. “They talk like the Switzer. Their German is different.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07npk4b"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs with most of the globe’s enclaves and exclaves, there’s quite a backstory behind this territorial identity crisis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Büsingen, the problem began in 1693, long before Germany existed. The village was under Austrian control when a family feud over religious allegiance led to the kidnapping of the Catholic-leaning feudal lord of Büsingen. His cousins hauled him to the nearby Swiss (and Protestant) town of Schaffhausen, where he was sentenced to life in prison. It took six years and the threat of Austria invading Schaffhausen to finally free the lord.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They said it would never go back to Switzerland – never, ever, ever","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA few decades later, when Austria sold its local holdings to the Swiss canton of Zurich, it held on to Büsingen – strictly out of spite, according to historians. “They said it would never go back to Switzerland. Never, ever, ever,” the deputy mayor said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat meant that when parts of the Austrian Empire were later absorbed by Germany in the 19th Century, Büsingen was claimed by the new republic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe orderly Swiss tried to clear up the mess in 1919 when it held a referendum that saw Büsingen residents voting by 96% to leave Germany. But Berlin wasn’t interested in giving the town up because Switzerland offered nothing in return.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07npk1r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven in the chaos of World War Two, the arrangement remained. Before German soldiers could return home to Büsingen on leave, they had to check their guns at the border and cover up their military uniform with a cape, said Güntert, whose relatives served in the German army. After the war, the division continued, turning daily shopping trips into an exercise in global trade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It was complicated,” said Elizabeth Arpke, who grew up in the area but was visiting Büsingen for the holiday. “When you bought meat in Germany, you’d have to cross the border [into Switzerland] and fill out forms.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFinally, in 1967, Germany and Switzerland agreed to add Büsingen to the Swiss customs area, which removed border controls and checkpoints around the village of less than 8 sq km.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07npcrl"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the problem is taxes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBecause the cost of living is higher in Switzerland than Germany, Büsingen residents typically earn larger salaries than their fellow countrymen. But since Germany has a higher tax rate, workers end up paying more than their Swiss neighbours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf course, there’s a flip side too. Taxi driver Caroline Major estimates her rent is 50% less in Büsingen than if she lived a few kilometres away in Switzerland. She relocated from the German town of Friedberg two years ago and couldn’t be happier. “I love my life. There’s good energy here. It’s so, so nice here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOthers have discovered that too. Because Germany offers a tax break for pensioners, Büsingen attracts retired Swiss residents. The result: “The young people go to Switzerland, and the old people come here. The village gets older every day,” said Rainer Krause, whose daughter runs Restaurant Waldheim on the international border.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07npk0p"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPolitics aside, Büsingen makes for a lovely Rhine Valley getaway.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThose intrigued by Büsingen’s centuries-old spat can hike a well-marked path, which the town interchangeably calls the Enclave or Exclave Trail. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.buesingen.de\u002Fde\u002FFreizeit-Tourismus\u002FExklavenweg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 11-stop excursion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E takes in river views, international border markers and even a vineyard, where terraces of German Riesling and Pinot Noir grapes ripen before they’re trucked a few kilometres away to be made into Swiss wine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps the trail’s first stop, a town hall mural on the village’s main street, explains it best: a smiling worker holds a pole flying a German flag, while a Swiss one sticks out of his jacket pocket.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p07npjx1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite the confusion of living in a no-man’s land, life seems pretty good here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe deputy mayor notes how his village is ideally located under an hour by train from Zurich airport and a 10-minute bus ride to the Swiss town of Schaffhausen. As he sips an espresso at an outdoor cafe overlooking the Rhine, he points to the river where he played as a child and across the bank to the forest, a nature preserve protected from development.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe town, he says, “is like paradise” – another place, it’s worth noting, whose borders have never quite been defined.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity-18"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fbest-of-bbc-travel","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-09-23T14:47:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Germany’s tiny geographic oddity","headlineShort":"Germany’s tiny geographic oddity","image":["p07npcfv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p07npcfv"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Surrounded by Switzerland, but owned by Germany, the tiny enclave of Büsingen am Hochrhein has managed a binational existence for centuries.","summaryShort":"The small enclave of Büsingen has managed a binational existence for centuries","tag":["tag\u002Fborders"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:37:50.727171Z","entity":"article","guid":"d2088c89-db70-4810-a629-0855d9ec2899","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:56:54.383818Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413136,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgermany"],"destinationStat":"europe_germany"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel","_id":"62b420311f4b7b27dc4f2ea4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The now-renowned Schengen Agreement was signed in a tiny village in Luxembourg’s south-east, a location that was drenched in symbolism.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBlink, and you could pass through Europe’s smaller nations without realising. Take Luxembourg, which can be crossed by car in just over an hour at its widest point. Before you know it, you’ve popped out into the surrounding countries of France, Germany or Belgium, with only the eagle-eyed spying the border sign and the striped flags of the Grand Duchy far behind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe ability to do this is partly down to its petite size, but also thanks to a Luxembourgian legacy: a treaty signed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.schengenvisainfo.com\u002Fschengen-agreement\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emore than 30 years ago\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the tiny village of Schengen in the country’s far south-east. The now-renowned \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-13194723\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchengen Agreement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dramatically changed the way we travel within Europe, and continues to evolve today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENot-so-little Luxembourg\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn the surface of things, Luxembourg could be viewed as a starchy \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-17548470\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecentre of commerce\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where European bigwigs busy themselves and money is made. It also appears to take up very little space on the map and, as a result, is often unwittingly overlooked as a destination in favour of its more sizeable neighbours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEurope’s strange border anomaly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180325-switzerlands-invisible-linguistic-borders\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe invisible lines through Switzerland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180425-im-from-a-country-that-no-longer-exists\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E‘I’m from a country that no longer exists’\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA founding member of what is now the European Union, the diminutive country is home to one of the EU’s three capitals – Luxembourg City (along with Brussels and Strasbourg) – and remains a key player in the running of the union.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt stands out as a constitutional monarchy wedged between the two giant republics of France and Germany, and has paid the price for its location in not one, but two world wars, ensuring there’s plenty of history on offer. There’s a flourishing domestic wine industry, an impressive restaurant scene, countless museums and memorials (from the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fluxembourg.public.lu\u002Fen\u002Fvisiter\u002Fque-faire\u002Fart-et-culture\u002Funesco\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco-listed fortress and old city centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fluxtimes.lu\u002Farchives\u002F3091-general-patton-s-grave-and-how-luxembourg-nearly-lost-it\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egrave of General George S Patton Jr\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), and a seemingly inherent love of seafood, cheese and all things pastry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 1985, Luxembourg was also instrumental in the creation of a landmark legislation: the signing of the Schengen Treaty, a unilateral agreement ensuring border-free travel within European member countries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn the trail of this historic spot, I travelled down the Moselle Valley, a quiet, unassuming part of eastern Luxembourg. The Moselle River lazily acting as a natural border between Luxembourg and Germany. The valley is evidently central to the country’s wine production, with row upon row of vineyards draped over the low-lying hillsides interrupted only by a scattering of towns and villages.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJust as I thought I was running out of country, I arrived at tiny Schengen, tucked in among the vines on the western bank of the Moselle. With fewer than 520 residents, it’s certainly not the big-name, bright-lights destination one might expect for an agreement that would change the way people travelled in Europe. Nevertheless, it was here, on a murky morning on 14 June 1985, that representatives of Belgium, France, Luxembourg, West Germany (as was) and the Netherlands gathered to officially seal the deal on this revolutionary new border-free zone.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EA bit of background\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe number of European treaties, alliances, cross-alliances and counter-treaties that emerged during the second half of the 20th Century is near mind-boggling. The list screams bureaucracy, but understanding something of the various allegiances at this time goes a long way to setting the scene in Schengen, so stay with me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs World War Two drew to a close in 1944, Belgium, Luxembourg and The Netherlands joined together to establish the Benelux. This party of three recognised the benefits that would come over the following, inevitably difficult, decades from working together, and were hoping to encourage trade through a customs agreement.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBuilding on Benelux, the 1957 Treaty of Rome created the European Economic Community (EEC), an expanded customs union of six founding member states (Benelux plus West Germany, France and Italy).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy the early 1980s, there were 10 EEC members, and while only quick border checks were being enforced between the nations, the reality was that this still stopped the flow of traffic, required man-power and was increasingly seen as unnecessary red tape. The concept of unilateral internal border-free travel split the members, however, with half wanting free movement for EU nationals only and thus remaining committed to internal border checks to distinguish between EU and non-EU nationals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs Martina Kneip, manager of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitschengen.lu\u002Fen\u002Feuropean-museum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEuropean Museum Schengen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, explained: \"The idea of open borders in 1985 was something extraordinary – like a kind of utopia. Nobody really believed that it could become reality.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was left to the remaining five members (Benelux, France and West Germany), keen to implement the free-flowing movement of all people and goods, to spearhead the creation of the area to which Schengen would give its name.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhy Schengen?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs Luxembourg was soon to take over the EEC presidency, the small nation was entitled to choose where the signing of this treaty would take place. It just so happens that Schengen is the only place where France and Germany both join with a Benelux member, securing it as the destination of choice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs the meeting place of three countries, the choosing of Schengen was drenched in symbolism. To ensure it was a neutral affair, the signatories were assembled on a pleasure cruiser, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitluxembourg.com\u002Fen\u002Fplace\u002Flakesrivers\u002Fpleasure-boat-ms-princesse-marie-astrid\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMS Princesse Marie-Astrid\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, to put pen to paper. The cruiser was moored as close as possible to the tri-point border, which runs down the middle of the Moselle River.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERegardless, the signing in Schengen failed to attract a great deal of support or attention at the time. As well as the five EEC member states who were against it, many officials from all sides simply didn't believe it would come into force or succeed. So much so, there wasn’t a single head of state from the five signing nations present on the day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrom the outset, the agreement was underestimated, “considered an experiment and not something that would last,” according to Kneip. This was compounded by the inevitable red tape that ensured the complete abolition of internal borders within the five founding countries didn’t materialise until 1995.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Schengen Area today\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, the Schengen Area comprises 26 member states. Of these, 22 are members of the EU, while four (Iceland, Switzerland, Norway and Liechtenstein) are not.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESchengen has its critics now as it did then. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-13194723\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecent migrant crisis and the 2015 Paris attacks undermined Schengen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, giving those against open borders plenty of ammunition to strike at the inclusive efforts made by the agreement. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite this, the Schengen Area continues to grow, even if the process of joining remains cumbersome. Politics still determine who can join, since new members must be unanimously voted in. Bulgaria and Romania, for example, have repeatedly been vetoed from joining Schengen largely due to concerns over domestic corruption and the security of their external borders. In fact, no country has joined the Schengen Area for several years; Liechtenstein was the last addition in 2011.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, the pros of Schengen far outweigh the cons for the majority of people. As Kneip observes: “The Schengen Agreement is something that affects the everyday lives of all the Schengen member states – some 400 million people.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor locals, this can mean anything from visiting friends and going to work to nipping into Luxembourg to take advantage of the country's relatively \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eea.europa.eu\u002Fdata-and-maps\u002Findicators\u002Ffuel-prices-and-taxes\u002Fassessment-2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elow tax on fuel when compared with its neighbours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, diesel in particular.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs for travellers, the Schengen Agreement grants immediate access to all member countries, making travel – be it by road, rail or air – quicker and easier. Add to this the Schengen visa, which allows non-EU travellers to apply for a single visa valid for 90 days with entry to all participating countries, and its appeal is blindingly clear, saving travellers both time and money.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhat of Schengen itself?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESince Schengen is removed from any major artery, you’re only likely to find yourself there if you make a conscious effort to go. Around a 35km drive from Luxembourg City, the route takes you through forests, over farmland and down into the Moselle Valley. The landscape changes quite noticeably as you descend the rural hills to the town of Remich. From here, it's a pleasant riverside drive, winding between vine-clad slopes and the Moselle River to the epicentre of Schengen, the European Museum. Here, the story of how the Schengen Area came to exist is expertly told through interactive displays inside and a variety of monuments outside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDon’t miss the cabinet of official border control caps from the member states at the time they joined the area, each a piece of national identity that was surrendered in order to make Schengen work. Poignant sections of the Berlin Wall sit perfectly placed in front of the museum, set there to remind us all that walls – in this case, world-famous reinforced concrete from one of its founding members, no less – don’t have to remain in place forever. Further along the jetty in front of the museum, you’ll find three \u003Cem\u003Esteles\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or steel slabs, each with their own star commemorating the founding members. Finally, there are the striking Pillars of Nations that beautifully detail iconic sights from each member of the Schengen Area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOf course, there’s more to this laidback border village than international legislation. Visitors can extend their stay to enjoy a river cruise on the Moselle, go hiking or cycling in the surrounding hills, or set about sampling some \u003Cem\u003Ecrémant\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the region’s revered sparkling white wine) to get a true taste of life in Schengen, the tiny rural village now committed to the annals of history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECORRECTION: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EA previous version of this story incorrectly stated the direction in which the Moselle River flows. We have adjusted the text accordingly.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-changed-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Changed the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series looking into how a destination has made a significant impact on the entire planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-12-03T21:10:04Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Schengen: A tiny village that changed European travel","headlineShort":"A treaty that changed how we travel","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The now-renowned Schengen Agreement was signed in a tiny village in Luxembourg’s south-east, a location that was drenched in symbolism.","summaryShort":"It’s regarded as a hugely successful example of international diplomacy","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:26:25.805698Z","entity":"article","guid":"ab033567-9379-415c-9e0e-e6b1a3f5c86f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:40:46.142202Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413134},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation","_id":"62b420411f4b7b0e367e0813","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran"],"bodyIntro":"An afterthought on the map of Austria, the exclave of Jungholz has carved out its own identity, even if the reality for those living there is far from straightforward.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThere is a mountain in the Allgäu Alps that is probably the most ludicrous in all of Europe. It is called the Sorgschrofen, it is 1,636m high, and it is marked by a G\u003Cem\u003Eipfelkreuz\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or summit cross, which stands above a sheer-sided cliff face of white-webbed rock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFormed from reef limestone, the knuckle looms above the triangle-shaped village of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jungholz.tirol\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJungholz\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the western Tirol of Austria. While it pales in significance to other mightier Alpine peaks, it fires the mind of cartophiles for a wholly unusual reason.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFor the cross at its top – an almost abstract feature on any map – marks the only geographical point where the Tirolean village and the rest of Austria meet. And almost unbelievably, this strip of connecting land is less than 1m wide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENo matter the absurdity, it is utterly necessary. Because Jungholz, population 302, is as Austrian as Vienna or Salzburg – yet it is surrounded by Germany on all sides, with no road connection to Austria. The only way Austrians in the exclave can reach their homeland is via Bavaria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EJungholz had never crossed my mind prior to this winter, and it is highly likely you have never heard of it either. Many Austrians are also unfamiliar with the mountain village; before making the trip, I asked locals in the Tirolean towns of Kitzbühel and Innsbruck what to expect and no one was any wiser than I. My interest in its incongruous geography deepened.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bnzy03"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Sorgschrofen summit cross with grassy hills","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EIt is also very common to meet tourists from the nearest German cities of Munich and Stuttgart who aren't aware of its geographic complexity. On a busy winter's day, some 3,000 of them journey to the exclave to ski Jungholz's modest collection of chairlifts and T-bars, besieging the village in helmets and with ski poles. The paradox, of course, is that most of them think they are still in Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist\"\u003EThe 'nation' with a useless passport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustria's town that lost its visitors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermany's tiny geographic oddity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EEven Elze-Jan Hoek, a Dutch transplant who came from outside Utrecht with his wife to set up a farm and raise his children, was first brought to Jungholz by accident. \"My parents loved southern Bavaria and we used to drive down from the Netherlands for long summer holidays in nearby Pfronten,\" he told me, wistfully. \"So it felt natural to decide to move to Germany – but almost by mistake we found a B&B just over the border in Jungholz instead.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EToday, it is guesthouse owners like Hoek, as well as the ski lift company, who keep the Austrian village alive. It is extraordinarily tiny and from the top of its highest T-bar lift at 1,390m it is possible to see all of Jungholz, from the atypical Tirolean church to the multi-winged \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fberghoteltirol.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBerghotel Tirol\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in one swift head turn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I drive 20km from Austria, up and over the Oberjoch Pass and through Germany, then back into Austria to work every day","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"So many oddities exist here,\" said Arnold Holl, managing director of the ski lift company, as we stood absorbing what little there was of the panorama. \"Locals speak with a German dialect and have a German way of thinking. The staff are mostly from Germany. And I drive 20km from Austria, up and over the Oberjoch Pass and through Germany, then back into Austria to work every day. I'm a Tiroler, and for me this is not the Tirol.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENonetheless, on arrival into Jungholz, a different message is proclaimed vividly in Germanic script on a gable-end mural on one of the first farmhouses visitors see when crossing the German-Austrian border. \"Grüß Gott im Land Tirol,\" it reads. \"May God bless you in the Land of Tirol.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bnzxzv"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Jungholz covered in snow","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe fault lines that carved out Jungholz's place in history can be traced in the village's archives at the bottom of the main chairlift. And it is here that an outsider can learn how the land first changed hands on 24 June 1342, from Hermann Häselin, a farmer from Wertach in Germany, to Heinz Lochpyler, an Austrian taxman from nearby Tannheim. Also here, one can learn how the tiny exclave was ruled by Austria over the next half millennium, despite feudalism fizzling out in medieval Europe and the modern borders of Germany and Austria tightening their grip around Jungholz's edges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe last thing I read is how, on 3 May 1868, a state treaty between Austria and Bavaria enveloped the rural backwater into the German economic area – meaning, unlike the rest of Austria, Jungholz traded freely with its close neighbour for almost 90 years before the European Economic Community was created and a century before the European Union came into being.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe village might have felt constricting after a day had it not been for its fascinating history and spirited locals. When they told me how complex life could be here, they didn't just mean its bizarre geography.  They meant that most people are born in Germany (since the nearest Austrian hospital is too far away), but everyone gets an Austrian passport. That food and drink comes from Germany, but telephone and internet from Austria. That they have two different postal codes and, until the 1990s, two telephone codes. That they use doctors and dentists in Germany because there are none in Jungholz. That there is no secondary school, but an agreement that lets children go to a German school, 40 minutes away in Bavaria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIt was a lot to take in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bnzxwt"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Welcome sign on Jungholz farmhouse","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EChief among recent challenges has been how the Covid pandemic has further isolated the exclave from the rest of Austria. As well as all the closest testing and vaccination centres being in Germany, border control was introduced at the end of the village by Bavarian State Police, meaning residents were effectively cut off from the outside world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIt was a move that strengthened their resolve and, when the second of four national lockdowns in Austria was announced in November 2020, Mayor Karina Konrad negotiated an exemption for residents to essentially be treated as German citizens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I grew up in Jungholz and it was normal for us that we weren't normal","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"We've always had problems because of our geographical situation, so this was yet another example of how we're treated in a different way from other Austrians,\" Konrad told me. \"I grew up in Jungholz and it was normal for us that we weren't normal. In Germany, they said we weren't German and in Austria they said we weren't Austrian. In daily life we are neither Austrian, nor Tirolean, but Jungholzer.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ESmall-town affection aside, there is another extraordinary element about Jungholz: thanks to a legal loophole and tax technicality, the village once had the highest density of banks in the world. This El Dorado of the banking scene became Bavaria's \"off-shore\" banking capital and gave German investors lucrative tax benefits. At the height of Jungholz banking in 2008, the village's Volksbank, Sparkasse and Raiffeisenbank Reutte had more than €4bn in their vaults – significantly more than the entire Tirolean state budget at the time. Indeed, it became a sort of Alpine Wild West, with cars arriving in the dead of night piled with suitcases full of black money. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"Switzerland was famous for its banking secrets, but Jungholz has the same history,\" said Hoek, who saw his guesthouse booked almost every night. \"Bagmen would arrive with suitcases handcuffed to their wrists, enter their room, lock the door and never leave until the banks opened. It happened all the time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bnzxwf"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Old advertisement and logo of Jungholz Bank near a church in Jungholz","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.connys.info\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EMuch has changed since then. The EU demanded greater levels of transparency, and cross-border tax evasion was placed under greater scrutiny in 2014, putting an end to Jungholz's status as an \"offshore\" capital. In turn, the billions invested in Jungholz vanished almost overnight and the banking exodus began. Now, the investors are gone, tourism has filled the void and the banks have been repurposed. One is a self-catering apartment block, while another hosts a permanent art exhibition, with a mural painted by Thierry Noir, the first artist to paint the Berlin Wall in the 1980s. The last building is still for sale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAn unusual village, in unusual circumstances, in unusual times. Before I left, I asked Conny Lochbihler, owner of visitor shop \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.connys.info\u002F\"\u003EConny's Ski Alm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, what it is about Jungholz that had kept her in this pocket kingdom for all of her life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"This is a place where you can see everything from every point,\" she said. \"The world is often too big, but here you can never get lost.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETravel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-15T07:21:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Jungholz: A ski town stuck in the wrong nation","headlineShort":"A ski town stuck in the wrong nation","image":["p0bnzy07"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"47.5739°","longitude":"10.4471","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bnzy07"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"An afterthought on the map of Austria, the exclave of Jungholz has carved out its own identity, even if the reality for those living there is far from straightforward.","summaryShort":"Life for the locals is far from straightforward","tag":["tag\u002Fborders","tag\u002Fsnow-skiing"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-14T20:25:21.429056Z","entity":"article","guid":"2e104879-c424-4cf2-87ab-587ee0abb1ea","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-01T23:16:29.048528Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413135,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustria","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_austria_europe"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border","_id":"62bb95f11f4b7b4c5c68f524","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flarry-bleiberg"],"bodyIntro":"Perhaps the world's most complicated boundary, a narrow bike trail offers a window into a region that has been the battleground of Europe and is where culture and geography intersect.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENicolai Meyer stepped away from his restaurant's deep fryer to offer a quick lesson in geography.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're in Belgium,\" he explained, then pointed through the window. \"The road is Germany. Then it's Belgium. Then Germany.\" The entire area he described spanned perhaps 50m.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI picked up one of his chips, which he assured me was a true Belgium \u003Cem\u003Efrite\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, dipped it in mayonnaise and took a bite as I tried to make sense of this patchwork quilt borderland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat may be the world's most complicated boundary centres on a narrow ribbon of bike trail. Its history offers a window into a region that at times has been the battleground of Europe and an area where culture and geography intersect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe cycling route follows an 1899 railroad called the Vennbahn, or Fens Railway, which connects the city of Aachen, Germany, with Luxembourg. Built by Germany's Prussian State Railway to haul coal, iron and steel, the railway fuelled industrial growth and prospered through World War One, when it was used to carry military supplies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen hostilities ended, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fevent\u002FTreaty-of-Versailles-1919\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E1919 Treaty of Versailles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E awarded Belgium contested German land, along with the railroad and its tracks that connected it. That included a 28km corridor that left several pockets of German land completely cut off from the rest of the country. One section was annexed by Belgium and later returned to Germany in 1958, but five others remain as enclaves – a territory completely surrounded by another territory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chm09q"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, one of the enclaves created by the Vennbahn covers just 1.5 hectares and contains a single farm. Others include small towns or sections of villages, the biggest covering about 1,800 hectares.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the latter part of the 20th Century, traffic died down on the once-crucial rail line and a preservation group briefly tried to operate a tourist railroad. But in 2013, the former railway found new life when it was dedicated as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vennbahn.eu\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E125km paved bike path\u003C\u002Fa\u003E stretching through Germany, Belgium and Luxembourg. Cyclists now come from across Europe to pedal past medieval towns, nature reserves and misty farm fields dissected by centuries-old hedgerows. They also marvel at the preposterous border they're weaving in and out of. But the locals rarely pay attention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's crazy – crossing the border for frites","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChristian Strutz, a banker who lives in Germany, said it doesn't register that he's leaving his country when he drops by Meyer's restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FNickis-Imbiss-168000860462574\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENicki's Imbiss\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in German-speaking east Belgium. \"It's very normal for us,\" he said, then stopped for a moment to think about it. \"It's crazy – crossing the border for frites.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chm0bp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, life generally flows smoothly across the international boundaries, thanks largely to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-13194723\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchengen Treaty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which, when implemented in 1995, eliminated most internal European border controls. In one area, a German bus stops on a Belgian street to pick up passengers. In another, a postman must pass through Belgium every day to reach a German subdivision of small homes, and to pick up parcels left in a canary-yellow Deutsche Post mailbox.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut during the global pandemic, residents were reminded once again that they were straddling two nations. Inevitably, the Belgium and German responses to Covid-19 didn't completely align, which meant on some days proof of vaccine could be required for dining on one side of the border, but not the other.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough it seems isolated, this region has repeatedly found itself at the crossroads of history. Charlemagne ruled his medieval empire from Aachen, where the Vennbahn begins. Later, Napoleon ordered the construction of a road linking towns that would eventually be connected by the railway. Hitler seized the region and rail line in 1940, and cyclists can still see the \"dragon's tooth\" concrete barriers that were part of the defences erected by the Third Reich to stop the advance of Allied tanks. Four years later, US troops fought their way past the barriers and reached what is today the enclave of Roetgen, which became the first German village liberated during World War Two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter the war, the area saw action of another sort. Locals found they could make a tidy profit by smuggling coffee beans from Belgium into Germany, where the prices were three times higher, giving the region a new nickname, the \"sinful frontier\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chm0br"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome carried the contraband across the High Fens, a preserved region of wetlands not far from the Vennbahn that's known for its moody weather and porous border. But most the smuggling centred on Mutzenich, one of the Vennbahn enclaves. The town now honours the criminals with a bronze statue of a man with a sack of coffee over his back crouching behind a rock in the middle of the road. Over a five-year period, the smugglers carried more than 1,000 tons of coffee across the border, bringing badly needed cash into an area impoverished by WW2.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMayor Jaqueline Huppertz, whose father was involved in the illegal trade, jokingly calls the activity an \"early type of regional development\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The coffee carriers played an increasingly brazen cat-and-mouse game with authorities","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe coffee carriers played an increasingly brazen cat-and-mouse game with authorities that sounds straight out of a Hollywood thriller. Men would travel by foot, bicycle and car, even stowing coffee beans in an ambulance and a hearse. When police gave chase, the smugglers dropped sharpened metal spikes on the roadway to stop the pursuit. The German authorities, who were using specially equipped, high-speed vehicles, responded by attaching a plough to the front of their cars to clear the hazards, a creation locals called a \"broom Porsche\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chm0bh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, about 50 of Mutzenich's citizens were caught and imprisoned near Cologne; a blow to the small town, which lost its economic livelihood and a such a large chunk of its male population that its municipal football team couldn't compete because it lacked players. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMany of the smugglers had donated money to help rebuild Mutzenich's war-damaged church, and the town's Catholic priest visited the inmates in prison to plead for their release. \"Even today, this church is popularly known as St Mocha,\" the mayor said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, the men received reduced sentences, possibly because German authorities realised that the town might eventually vote in a referendum to join Belgium, Huppertz explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the border is wide open, and the only indication you are entering a different country might be an easily overlooked street sign. Along the side of the Vennban, an occasional concrete marker sticks out of the weeds, marked B on one side and D on the other, abbreviations for Belgium and Deutschland. But the most convoluted border is the stretch near Meyer's chip shop in Raeren, Belgium.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0chm0cb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter eating my share of frites, I embarked on an international journey, stepping off the pavement to briefly leave Belgium and then dart across German Highway 258 to reach the Vennbahn, which put me back into Belgium again. I entered a trailside restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kaffeefee-roetgen.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKaffeefee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which gets its electricity and water from Germany, although the business is regulated and licensed by Belgium. Café owners Waltraud and Norbert Siebertz live another 200m further east in Germany.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWaltraud said most of her customers are typically cyclists who have no idea where they are. \"The criss-crossing and zig-zagging is quite a surprise to them – in a special way. They think they're illegally crossing the border.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter she serves them a beer or cappuccino and perhaps a cherry strudel, she offers the riders a bit of advice. Although the trail itself is in Belgium, they're actually much closer to German cities and services. \"If they have an accident, I tell them they should roll to the German side,\" she said, \"because the ambulance will come faster.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPlaces That Don't Belong\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-29T10:21:52Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The world's weirdest border?","headlineShort":"The world's weirdest border?","image":["p0chm0hg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.6479887","longitude":"6.1813807","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0chm0hg"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220214-jungholz-a-ski-town-stuck-in-the-wrong-nation"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Perhaps the world's most complicated boundary, a narrow bike trail offers a window into a region that has been the battleground of Europe and is where culture and geography intersect.","summaryShort":"It's been nicknamed the \"sinful frontier\"","tag":["tag\u002Fborders"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-06-28T23:59:27.642867Z","entity":"article","guid":"2387e77b-3cc6-44da-bcc6-02864eb91e63","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-30T16:05:08.212247Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbelgium","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgermany","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_belgium_europe_germany_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413133},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland","_id":"62b420341f4b7b2e3d399685","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"For 300 years, the Debatable Lands flourished as an anarchic no-man's land; not independent, but too dangerous for either Scotland or England to be able – or want – to take control of.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile travelling is on hold due to the coronavirus outbreak, BBC Travel will continue to inform and inspire our readers who want to learn about the world as much as they want to travel there, offering stories that celebrate the people, places and cultures that make this world so wonderfully diverse and amazing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor travel information and stories specifically related to coronavirus, please read \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe latest updates from our colleagues at BBC News\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Our coverage during coronavirus","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world – and this is one our favourites. Click \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201218-best-of-bbc-travel-2020\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the full list).\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENowhere does a brooding winter sky quite like the west coast of Scotland. As I looked across the open estuary of the River Esk, pale yellow sunlight filtered through streaks of low-lying cloud, reflected in the mirror-like ribbons of water and ripples of sand exposed by the retreating tide. All around, fields dipped gently to flatten out along the shore of the channel, which snakes its way westwards to the Solway Firth. The lowland coastline, flanked by rolling hills, expands until the firth meets the Irish Sea, creating a natural break in the land between Dumfries and Galloway in Scotland and Cumbria in northern England.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStanding firm against a determined breeze, I was surveying the scene from what marks the south-western end of the border between Scotland and England. Peacefully admiring nature at work, it was hard to believe that this seemingly tranquil, rural landscape was once at the edge of one of Britain's most lawless, and for a time, bloodiest, regions: the area known as the Debatable Lands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, this once troublesome region is a laidback, quiet part of the border where hardy animal breeds are reared and a sense of community reverberates among the long-established towns and villages. This lesser-visited corner of the UK is also where you can get close to the story of those who called the Debatable Lands home: feuding clans known as the Border Reivers. It’s a place where local histories and scant ruins linger among wooded valleys, fast-flowing rivers and open moorland that lend themselves to letting your imagination fill in some of the blanks of its much under-told story.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd what a fascinating tale it is. The Debatable Lands is believed to have been the last great territorial division in Britain. Here, from the 13th to the 16th Centuries, the region's clans plundered land and livestock and endless blood was shed. Straddling the border, the Debatable Lands flourished as a sort of anarchic no-man's land, not independent but too dangerous and lawless for either Scotland or England to be able – or want – to take control of.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK's real-life treasure island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200311-a-tiny-country-between-france-and-switzerland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA tiny 'country' between France and Switzerland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190924-the-lost-villages-of-the-derwent-valley\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe eerie remains of a drowned village\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis was highlighted in a remarkable parliamentary decree issued by the governments of both countries in the mid-16th Century, some 300 years into the Debatable Lands’ story: “All Englishmen and Scottishmen are and shall be free to rob, burn, spoil, slay, murder and destroy, all and every such person and persons, their bodies, property, goods and livestock… without any redress to be made for same.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile this decree was made into law, it was more of a legal “out” for England and Scotland. Neither side wanted the responsibility of dealing with the Debatable Lands; and as they could not agree on who owned it or how it was divided, neither could be held responsible for it, either. As Dr Anna Groundwater, principal curator, Renaissance and Early Modern History, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nms.ac.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Museums Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, told me, “It was not a valuable piece of land, high ground and poor farming potential, so it was probably seen as not particularly worth fighting for or defending.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was also a small area, something that struck me as I examined the map while waiting for a much-needed warming tea in the Cinebar Kitchen in the Scottish town of Gretna. The Debatable Lands ran just more than eight miles across at its widest, and roughly 13 miles from the elevated north down to the sandy-flats of the south with Gretna at its south-western tip and around one-third of the area extending into northern England. Gretna also proved perfectly placed as a launching pad for my foray, only a short detour from the A7, the artery that connects Edinburgh and Carlisle and cuts through the middle of what was the Debatable Lands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was probably seen as not particularly worth fighting for or defending","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGretna and its Green may be affectionately known as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fmagazine-28679430\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea safe haven for young lovers looking to elope\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but the town also has an illustrious industrial heritage owing to the production of munitions for World War One, which drastically reshaped the community. The architecture reflects the early 20th Century well, such as the once-upon-a-time colonial revival-style cinema, whose adjoining cafe I was thawing out in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe line between Scotland and England was established with the Treaty of York in 1237. As Graham Robb writes in his 2018 book, The Debatable Land: The Lost World Between Scotland and England\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E it is “probably the oldest national boundary in Europe”. But when it was finalised, it seems that it drew a line through lands that were essentially familial, dividing some held territory in two. Therefore, the border symbolised state-led authority and the Debatable Lands became the flashpoint of a rebellion of sorts, where powerful families plundered each other in both Scotland and England and neither government was committed to sorting it out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe region became a no-go zone, a hazardous region frequented by the Border Reivers; “\u003Cem\u003Ereiving”\u003C\u002Fem\u003E being a Scots word for plundering or raiding. Reivers busied themselves with a cat-and-mouse style game of stealing each other’s livestock. As Groundwater points out, that this occurred both “across the border and within each kingdom” shows that it was “not only English versus Scottish but internal crime, too”. Although raids weren’t confined solely to the Debatable Lands, most of the bloodiest took place in this untouchable territory, and it essentially became Britain’s fourth country, sitting alongside England, Wales and Scotland: a miniature, no-go area abiding by its own rules.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"[It is] probably the oldest national boundary in Europe","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe wild, often barren landscape, punctuated only by small communities, certainly adds to the effect. Towns such as Canonbie and Langholm are now local centres for fishing and hiking but grew from the remains of family settlements within the Debatable Lands. There are other well-marked ways of getting personal with the outdoors here. The coast-to-coast \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Freivers-route.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReivers Cycle Route\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for example, is a 173-mile stretch from that takes in many Borderland highlights including the Debatable Lands, although, you can pick and choose sections.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETaking another brief detour from the A7, I found myself in Rowanburn, a village with a well-kept public garden and the unmissable imposing wooden carving of Lang Sandy, so-called for his considerable height at more than 6ft, very tall for the 16th Century. Full name Alexander Armstrong, he was the last chief of the all-powerful Scottish Armstrong clan in the Debatable Lands, and a much revered and feared reiver. He long resisted attempts at pacification by the Crown and was eventually hanged with his 11 sons in around 1610, a fate that was to befall many of the region’s reivers.   \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe place I really wanted to visit, however, was nearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgilnockietower.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGilnockie Tower\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Mere minutes from Rowanburn, I was soon ambling up the driveway to what is one of the finest remaining examples of a lowland Pele tower – a compact fortified keep built for defence, unique to the border region – and now home to the Clan Armstrong Centre, a small museum and essential Debatable Lands stopping point.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EConfusingly it’s also known as Hollows Tower due to its adjacent location to Hollows Village, something that Ian Martin, project manager at the tower, explained as we headed inside the depths of the more than 500-year-old building.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps because there are few tangible remains from the period, Gilnockie Tower is a space in which the Debatable Lands comes alive. It’s every bit the defensive tower, from its impenetrably thick stone walls to its tiny high windows and roof-top lookout where you can easily picture a guard keeping watch. The tower, which endeavours to open all year, houses a small exhibition and cafe, and, as Martin tells me, offers tours (booked in advance) that “are designed to take people well into the 16th Century, deep enough to give them a flavour of family life at that difficult period”, including, for example, everyday conditions and the daily chores and traditional dining habits of those living through this unruly time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDiscussing my route along the A7, Martin tells me that there’s a desire to see a more concerted effort in attracting visitors to the region: “As you drive up the road to Canonbie, Gilnockie Tower, Langholm and on through the Borderlands,” he said, “the history of the textile industry, both woven and knitted wear, is presented in some wonderful exhibitions [in the likes of Hawick, close to the Debatable Lands]. Much more of these experiences are being developed, all in the effort to open up a visitor route through the A7 corridor that has fundamentally been ignored for years.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe region’s remoteness, however, was of no concern to the reivers of their day. The Debatable Lands existed in its isolated manner until, officially speaking, 1551, when an agreement between the two countries prompted the building of Scots’ Dike in 1552, which “settled the exact boundary between the countries of Scotland and England,” according to Martin. This man-made embankment, little of which is visible today, was a three-and-a-half-mile-long barrier that finally divided the Debatable Lands in two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was initially more symbolic than practical, as this barrier did nothing to stem the flow of reiving. It wasn’t until 1603 that the border areas became a real focus for the unifying monarch, King James VI & I, King of Scotland and the first Stuart King of England, following the Union of the Crowns. New wardens were put in charge of tidying up the region and prominent reivers were rounded up. Some, like Lang Sandy, were hanged, many were exiled, and the process of instilling a semblance of law and order began in earnest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWinding northwards up the A7, with Gilnockie Tower in the rear-view mirror, I struggled to get my head around how this small patch of land, the most debatable of areas, had excelled at such remarkable lawlessness with colourful characters and tales to boot, while, simultaneously, remaining so very under the radar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd that’s where the appeal in the Debatable Lands lies; the intrigue of this unfathomable period and, by association, the surrounding towns and villages of the Borderlands, whose natural landscapes remain – almost – as wild and untamed as in the days of the reivers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland-17"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-05-05T00:54:13Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The tiny ‘country’ between England and Scotland","headlineShort":"Britain's lawless 'fourth' country","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For 300 years, the Debatable Lands flourished as an anarchic no-man's land; not independent, but too dangerous for either Scotland or England to be able – or want – to take control of.","summaryShort":"This miniature, no-go area abided by its own rules","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:48:40.153704Z","entity":"article","guid":"91c3e464-207b-4245-bdd9-29dfcf69f111","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:08:31.260771Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413137},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly","_id":"62b4202e1f4b7b2e49026886","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Dutch municipality of Baarle-Nassau is home to more than 20 Belgian enclaves, some of which contain Dutch enclaves.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn a quiet corner of northern Europe there exists a geopolitical anomaly, where many buildings have an international border running right through them. It’s a place where a person might be in the same bed as his or her spouse, but sleep in different countries. A place where people move their front doors for economic advantage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They look like cartographic amoebae","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENot far from the Belgian border, the Netherlands municipality of Baarle-Nassau is home to nearly 30 Belgian enclaves, known collectively as Baarle-Hertog. On the map, they look like cartographic amoebae, some of them with Dutch nuclei inside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20170927-canadas-tiny-disputed-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe strange US-Canada border dispute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161107-the-village-divided-by-a-border\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe village divided by a border\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171105-the-us-canada-border-runs-through-this-tiny-library\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe library straddling two nations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis whole confused mess dates to the Middle Ages when parcels of land were divvied up between different local aristocratic families. Baarle-Hertog once belonged to the Duke (\u003Cem\u003Ehertog\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is the Dutch word for ‘duke’) of Brabant, while Baarle-Nassau was the property of the medieval House of Nassau. When Belgium declared independence from the Netherlands in 1831, the two nations were left with an international muddle so complicated that successive regimes were deterred from defining exact jurisdictions. The borders were not actually finalised until 1995, when the last remaining piece of no man’s land was attributed to Belgium.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn first impression, it’s not easy to tell the territories apart, as they look no different from any typical red-brick small Dutch town. Around three-quarters of the region’s roughly 9,000 total residents are Dutch passport holders, and the Dutch municipality also has by far the larger share of land (76 sq km compared to 7.5 sq km). But after a while the differences become apparent, albeit with the help of pavement markings – white crosses with ‘NL’ on one side and ‘B’ on the other – and house numbers which are marked with the appropriate flag.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Dutch properties are more uniform in appearance than their Belgian counterparts, and Dutch pavements are lined with lime trees, their limbs carefully pruned and braided like vines. The Belgian areas tend to be more architecturally diverse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf I had an ear for it, I’d be able to differentiate accents, too, explained Willem van Gool, chairman of the Baarle tourist office (himself a Dutch passport holder, though his mother is Belgian). Although French is taught in the Belgian schools, Dutch is the primary language of both communities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, van Gool noted, “With the Belgians it is more like a dialect, and with the Dutch it is more… clean.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat, and the less prescriptive approach to residential landscaping on the Belgian side, has led to a tendency on the part of some of the Dutch to look down on their neighbours. “Back in the days when the schools emptied out at the same time, teenagers would fight,” recalled van Gool, but that all stopped in the 1960s when the town’s two mayors (one Dutch and one Belgian) altered the school timings so that they didn’t overlap and combined the youth club to promote positive interactions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, many residents of Baarle-Nassau and Baarle-Hertog have dual citizenship and both a Belgian and a Dutch passport. The peaceful interweaving of the two nations has \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.timesofisrael.com\u002Fnetanyahu-looks-to-belgium-holland-border-for-settlement-solution\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eattracted the interest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of advisors to Israeli prime minister Benjamin Netanyahu, as an example of how two different communities can live harmoniously together.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESo is all this border obscurity to Baarle-Nassau and Baarle-Hertog’s benefit? It certainly attracts tourists, said van Gool. “The number of shops, hotels and cafes we have would be more suited to a town of 40,000 rather than 9,000. And when the Belgian shops have to close on Sunday, the Dutch don’t.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe complexities can still prove difficult, however, especially when it comes to infrastructure. Building permits can be particularly tricky, said Leo van Tilburg, mayor of the Belgian municipality, whose town hall is bisected by the border. Because of its location, Belgium had to seek Dutch permission to build part of their mayoral building – the part delineated by the brightly illuminated border strip running right through the meeting room.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Everything is a matter of negotiation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMuch of Tilburg’s time is devoted to sorting out the delivery of services – education, water, infrastructure – in co-operation with his Dutch counterpart, Marjon de Hoon. Resurfacing the roads is his particular bugbear, as roads can cross borders several times within a few hundred metres. And then there are issues like the planning of sewage pipes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The road under which the pipe is being installed may be all Belgian, but who pays if the pipework has to be enlarged thanks to Dutch houses nearby? And who pays to service the streetlights, where the pavement is Belgian but the light shines on Dutch windows?” Tilburg said. “[But] if there are 100 problems, 98 of them will turn out to be no problem – after plenty of discussions, of course.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEverything is a matter of negotiation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGiven that Belgium’s planning laws are less restrictive than the Netherlands’, there are clear advantages to having a front door in Belgium, as Kees de Hoon (no relation to the Dutch mayor) explained when I met him at his border-straddling apartment block. A Dutch passport-holder living in Baarle-Hertog, Kees wanted to redevelop the original building, but the front door was in the Netherlands and he couldn’t get planning permission from the Dutch town hall. He solved the problem by simply installing a second front door, adjacent to the first but on the other side of the border. So now with two front doors to the building, one of his apartments is Dutch, and the other three are Belgian.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was done on both sides of the border","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKees isn’t the only one who has taken advantage of jurisdictional loopholes; many long-established families and business owners will admit to have benefited in some small way. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com\u002Fbooks?id=DcixBgtKMwUC&pg=PA132&lpg=PA132&dq=baarle+nassau+femisbank+1971&source=bl&ots=TJOZiB_u6u&sig=Jf9WF77SC9nSUXP48EQ0mJc03CA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjY5sPlj_PXAhUKMd8KHeAvC6EQ6AEIKTAA#v=onepage&q=baarle%20nassau%20femisbank%201971&f=false\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emost flagrant example\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a former bank that was built right on top of the border so paperwork could be moved from one side of the building to the other whenever one nationality’s tax inspectors came calling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough loophole-exploiting isn’t as common as it once was, I couldn’t help imagining the glory days of cross-border rule-bending. The cattle that mysteriously changed fields overnight. The shop stock that was acquired in one country and sold in the other without bothering the tax man. “It is a subject the locals like to talk about,” agreed van Gool, “and it was done on both sides of the border.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat doesn’t mean the two jurisdictions are without friction. The drinking age in the Netherlands is 18 but Belgians can legally drink beer and wine at 16, so if a Dutch barkeeper refuses to serve a crowd of teenagers, they can just thumb their nose at him and walk across the road. And the many fireworks shops in the Belgian parts of town are a source of irritation to the Dutch authorities. In the Netherlands, the sale and carriage of fireworks is illegal (except for around the New Year). So when I came to the end of my November visit in Baarle-Nassau\u002FBaarle-Hertog, I had to face Dutch police who were scrutinising everyone leaving town.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt seems that, in this laboratory of trans-frontier co-operation, there are still a few outstanding issues to be resolved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-12-11T20:41:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Europe's strange border anomaly","headlineShort":"Europe's strange border anomaly","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Dutch municipality of Baarle-Nassau is home to more than 20 Belgian enclaves, some of which contain Dutch enclaves.","summaryShort":"Where people move their front doors for economic advantage","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:11:30.495648Z","entity":"article","guid":"defb65e1-5348-46e7-8949-da0a3a11eee4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:21:22.45375Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413137},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language","_id":"62b4202f1f4b7b2e710b4109","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Despite Romansh being one of Switzerland’s four national languages, less than 0.5% percent of Swiss can speak it.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EDiscurras ti rumantsch?\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite Romansh being one of Switzerland’s four national languages, less than 0.5% percent of Swiss can answer that question – ‘Do you speak Romansh?’ – with a ‘yes’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERomansh is a Romance language indigenous to Switzerland’s largest canton, Graubünden, located in the south-eastern corner of the country. In the last century, the number of Romansh speakers has fallen 50% to a meagre 60,000. Travellers in the canton can still see Romansh on street signs, or hear it in restaurants when they’re greeted with ‘\u003Cem\u003EAllegra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E!’ (Welcome in). But nearly 40% of Romansh speakers have left the area for better job opportunities in places like Zürich and it’s rare that you will see or hear Romansh outside the canton. In such a small country, can a language spoken by just a sliver of the population survive, or is it as doomed as the dinosaur and dodo?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180325-switzerlands-invisible-linguistic-borders\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe invisible lines through Switzerland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170719-the-mysterious-origins-of-europes-oldest-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe mysterious origins of Europe’s oldest language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171008-why-italy-is-racing-to-save-the-game-of-bocce\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe town that’s losing its language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERomansh is believed to have originated around 15BC when the Romans conquered Rhaetia, which is now Graubünden. Romansh is the result of the combination of the Vulgar Latin spoken by soldiers and colonists, and Rhaetian, the language of the native people. This new hybrid language became the primary language of the area until the 15th Century, when the canton first came together in a loose confederation known as the Free State of the Three Leagues.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe leagues used German as their primary language, and because local villages were isolated in the mountainous area’s 150 valleys, Romansh fragmented into five somewhat different dialects, each with its own written language. This lack of a uniform standard hindered Romansh’s ability to grow the way German or French did in the country. More and more Germans came to the area, and by the 19th Century, the canton encouraged its Romansh residents to learn German. Today German is the prominent language in Graubünden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYou might think that would be the end of Romansh, but the Swiss are proud of their culture and in 1938 more than 90% of the country voted to make Romansh an official national language. The Swiss government spends about 7.6 million CHF annually to promote and preserve Romansh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBecause the economics and practicality of having an official language with five idioms was cumbersome, in 1982 an artificial, unified version of Romansh, Rumantsch Grischun, was developed by Heinrich Schmid, a linguist from the University of Zürich, and the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.liarumantscha.ch\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELia Rumantscha\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a non-profit organisation dedicated to preserving and promoting Romansh language and culture. Since 1996, the unified Romansh has served as the administrative language, but the people of Graubünden have resisted giving up their own dialects in favour of the common version.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The individual speakers regard unification as a major threat to their own original dialect or idiom,” explained Daniel Telli, head of the Unit Lingua at Lia Rumantscha. “They frequently consider the unified language as artificial, whereas the variety they use is the language of the heart.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Without language you will lose many aspects of the culture","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELanguage exists to convey a people’s culture to the next generation, so it makes sense that each area is protective of its unique dialect. When the world loses a language, as it does every \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thestar.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld\u002F2013\u002F04\u002F15\u002Fdying_languages_scientists_fret_as_one_disappears_every_14_days.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etwo weeks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, we collectively lose the knowledge from past generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Language is a salient and important expression of cultural identity, and without language you will lose many aspects of the culture,” said Dr Gregory Anderson, Director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flivingtongues.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELiving Tongues Institute for Endangered Languages\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWithout the Romansh language, who is to say if customs like Chalandamarz, an ancient festival held each 1 March in the Engadine Valley to celebrate the end of winter and coming of spring, will endure; or if traditional local recipes like \u003Cem\u003Ecapuns\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – spätzle wrapped in greens – will be forgotten.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Romansh contributes in its own way to a multilingual Switzerland,” Telli said. “And on a different level, the death of a language implies the loss of a unique way to see and describe the world.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut the number of Romansh speakers continues to dwindle as Graubünden residents place a bigger value on more mainstream languages."},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EThe dialects are divided into Rhine (more German influenced), and Engadine (more Italian influenced).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERhine: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESursilvan:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E The most common of the dialects is found in the Surselva area of the Vorderrhein Valley. Around 60% of the population considers it their primary language.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESutsilvan: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EOnly a small percentage of the 1,000 people in the Hinterrhein Valley still speak their dialect of Romansh. It is the least spoken dialect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESurmiran\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E: This version is spoken in the Albulatal and Vaz\u002FObervaz area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEngadine:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPuter:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E Spoken in the Upper Engadine Valley, it is the primary language of 30% of the area’s residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EVallader:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E Spoken in the Lower Engadine Valley, it is the second most popular dialect and nearly 80% of the population there considers it their primary language. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"The five dialects of Romansh","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"In many Graubünden schools, German is the main language of instruction, with only a handful of smaller villages continuing to teach in a mix of their specific dialect and the unified Romansh. Most schools offer Romansh language lessons, but it is not a required course. Maja Gartmann, a public relations professional who lives in Graubünden, for example, elected to learn French, Italian and English instead, languages that will make her more marketable in a globalised economy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, there is hope on the horizon: in recent years, there has been a slight uptick of interest in Romansh that could help revive the language.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIronically, globalisation might be driving the trend.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Years ago no-one wanted things that were traditionally Swiss, but now people are tired of everything being the same everywhere. It’s seen as hip and cool to go back to your roots and be more local than global,” Gartmann said. “Now people are proud to speak Romansh because it’s different and rare, and anything that is rare and exclusive is interesting today.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The death of a language implies the loss of a unique way to see and describe the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere is a Romansh TV and radio station and a Romansh newspaper, all of which use a mix of the unified language and the different dialects; and bookstores like \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fprovini.ch\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EProvini Il Palantin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which carries one of the largest selections of Romansh books in the canton. There is even a hip-hop group who rap in Romansh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Everyone in the band grew up in Grison [Graubünden],” said Johannes Just, a member of Liricas Analas (Ass Lyrics) “The language in rap is a tool for expression, and if you don’t rap in your mother tongue you’re more absorbed with the usage of that tool than the free expression of thoughts and ideas. It was never the idea to promote the language by our musical work, but if we can do our part [promoting Romansh] it is a welcome effect.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd technology is helping resuscitate fading languages like Romansh. The language lives on websites and blogs; online apps like Memrise help teach the language; online translators like Romansh English Translator APK can aid communication; and social media sites allow Romansh speakers to connect, especially among younger people. Technology behemoth Google launched \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.endangeredlanguages.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Endangered Languages Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, to preserve the world’s most at-risk languages, including Romansh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA line from 19th-Century poem Al pievel romontsch (To the Romansh people) by Giachen Caspar Muoth instructed people to ‘Stand up and defend your ancient language, Romansh!’ What remains to be seen is whether enough canton residents believe that preserving the area’s historic culture and language is a worthy thing to do in the 21st Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Travel, Capital, Culture, Earth and Future, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-06-28T19:40:30Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Switzerland’s mysterious fourth language","headlineShort":"Switzerland’s secret fourth language","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Despite Romansh being one of Switzerland’s four national languages, less than 0.5% percent of Swiss can speak it.","summaryShort":"Less than 0.5% percent of Swiss can speak it","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:19:41.571406Z","entity":"article","guid":"a79be999-10c4-44bd-a1b9-9c86cca43dcb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:32:16.591822Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413138},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language","_id":"62b4203b1f4b7b2e4c481bd2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Frichard-collett"],"bodyIntro":"Geographically, Spain's Val d'Aran should be part of France, but it's neither French, Spanish nor Catalan in culture, history or even language.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBorders are supposed to be simple in the Pyrenees. On the southern side of the mountain range, you're in Spain. On the northern side, you're in France. Visit Val d'Aran, though, and geopolitics takes a more complicated turn. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVal d'Aran is on the wrong side of the mountains. Geographically, this small mountain valley with its population of 10,000 people should be in France. But Val d'Aran is the only community within Spain's contiguous borders that's located on the northern slopes of the Pyrenees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOfficially, Val d'Aran is within the administrative boundaries of Catalonia, but despite being caught between larger kingdoms and nation-states for centuries, Val d'Aran has never surrendered its local identity. Key to that local identity is the Aranese language, which alongside Catalan and Spanish, is officially recognised as the third language of Catalonia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We are Aranese because we speak Aranese,\" said Jusèp Loís Sans Socasau passionately, when I stepped into his office in Vielha, Val d'Aran's capital. It was early December and there was an ever-thickening layer of snow as the valley prepared for ski season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Aranese is the language of our valley,\" Sans Socasau added. \"And it's the language of our culture.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bfcmpn"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Vilac town in Val d'Aran decorated with flowers during summer","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESans Socasau is the president of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.institutestudisaranesi.cat\u002F\"\u003EInstitut d'Estudis Aranese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Institute of Aranese Studies) and his office was stacked with historical manuscripts and Aranese dictionaries and novels. \"Aranese is a Romance-based language,\" he explained, as I warmed up with a fresh coffee. \"It's very close to Latin, but it's evolved very differently to Spanish and French.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAranese is a distinct dialect of the Occitan language, which, in its medieval heyday, was spoken from the Pyrenees to Piedmont, located in what is now northern Italy. \"This was the territory of the Occitan language,\" Sans Socasau said proudly, pointing at a historical map. \"And it was the territory of the Troubadours\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEurope's strange border anomaly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwitzerland's mysterious fourth language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny 'country' between England and Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the 11th and 12th Centuries, there was an explosion of Occitan poetry across Europe. The language was spread far and wide by Troubadours, Occitan-speaking poets and writers who composed and performed medieval romances. Even Richard I of England – better known as Richard the Lionheart, and who held lands in France – spoke Occitan as a first language (his mother, Eleanor of Aquitaine, came from an Occitan speaking region). In later centuries, though, Occitan would be replaced by other languages, and in southern France, where there are still tens of thousands of Occitan speakers, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180911-occitan-the-language-the-french-forbade\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe language has never been made official or \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180911-occitan-the-language-the-french-forbade\"\u003Eafforded government protections\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Val d'Aran, the Occitan language survived as Aranese, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fllengua.gencat.cat\u002Fweb\u002F.content\u002Fdocuments\u002Fdadesestudis\u002Faltres\u002Farxius\u002Fdossier_eulp-2018_aranes.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egovernment figures suggest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that around 4,000 Val d'Aran residents – about 40% of the population – can read, write and speak Aranese. Despite being suppressed most recently during the Francisco Franco regime, which lasted until the dictator's death in 1975, Aranese received official recognition when Val d'Aran was granted autonomy by the Catalonian government in 1991. And in 2010, Aranese was proclaimed to be co-official alongside Spanish and Catalan, not just in Val d'Aran, but everywhere in Catalonia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchool children in Val d'Aran study in Aranese; there's a wealth of Aranese literature and articles; and radio shows and news programmes are broadcast in the language. \"The language still lives here, in our valley,\" said Sans Socasau, whose daughter tours across Europe singing and songwriting solely in the Aranese language. \"And this is the only place where the language is protected, where it is official.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bfcmpl"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Val d'Aran town with mountain view in the background","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESince Val d'Aran is separated from the rest of Spain by the Pyrenees, my six-hour winter bus ride from Barcelona was only possible thanks to a 5km-long tunnel through the mountains that opened in 1948. When I arrived, snow capped the mountain tops that surround Vielha, while the buildings, with their pitched roofs, were distinctly different from the flat roofs of Catalonia's capital. All things considered, \"remote\" seemed like a good descriptor, and surely, I thought, this remoteness was a cause for the survival of the Aranese language.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Val d'Aran has always been a place of trade. It's a valley of communication, not of isolation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECarla del Valle, an expert in medieval studies and director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitmuseum.gencat.cat\u002Fen\u002Fmuseu-dera-val-d-aran\"\u003EMusèu \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvisitmuseum.gencat.cat\u002Fen\u002Fmuseu-dera-val-d-aran\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edera Val d'Aran\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, told me otherwise. \"Traditionally, it's said that Val d'Aran is an isolated place and that's why we've preserved our unique culture,\" she said. \"But that's not actually true, because Val d'Aran has always been a place of trade. It's a valley of communication, not of isolation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDel Valle – whose surname means, \"of the valley\" – explained how Aranese has survived despite the influence of other languages, of which there are many in Val d'Aran. Del Valle, like most Aranese I met in the valley, is a polyglot. She joked how she spoke four and a half languages: Aranese, Catalan, Spanish, English and a bit of French.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the museum, information boards were written in three languages, Aranese, Catalan and Spanish. Displayed next to one another, the similarities and differences between the three Romance languages became more apparent. The most obvious difference was in the prepositions. For example, the phrase \"Artistic Legacy\" was written in Spanish as \"El Legado Artistico\". In Catalan, this became \"El Llegat Artistic\", while in Aranese, it was \"Eth Legat Artistic\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDel Valle explained that before the tunnel connecting Val d'Aran to Spain was built, the Aranese always looked to France for trade. Until the 18th-Century French Revolution, Val d'Aran was also religiously administered by bishops from the Diocese of Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges in France.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bfcmml"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Houses of Vielha along the Garona River at sunset","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPolitically, though, Val d'Aran has for centuries been aligned with Spanish kingdoms, who were always looking to conquer the gateway to Catalonia. Fiercely independent, Val d'Aran played larger kingdoms against each other and always pledged its allegiance to the ruler that allowed the valley the most privileges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1313, Val d'Aran signed the Querimonia, a Magna-Carta like document that granted the valley semi-independence. The Querimonia was drawn upon in 1991, when Val d'Aran was again re-granted its historical right to self-rule after being integrated into Catalonia in the 19th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's all very game of thrones,\" said del Valle with a laugh. \"The history of Val d'Aran can be simplified to fighting and then negotiating. Always trying to remain independent. But we weren't quite as successful as Andorra. They succeeded there, and they are still independent. And they now pay less taxes than us!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Aranese flag was flying proudly outside the offices of the Conselh Generau d'Aran\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E the local autonomous government, where I met with Juan Manuel Morell, who works for the local tourism board. He explained how geography has not only shaped Val d'Aran's history, but has shaped what it means to be Aranese.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Here, it's all about the mountains and snow,\" Morell said. Val d'Aran has an Atlantic climate rather than a Mediterranean climate, a result of the River Garona flowing through the valley on its long journey to Bordeaux where it eventually empties into the Atlantic Ocean. \"Val d'Aran is the only Atlantic facing valley in all of Catalonia,\" he added. \"And that makes you different.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo experience the region's mountain culture firsthand, Marta Peruga, who works in Vielha's tourist information office, recommended visiting the village of Bagergue, which, at an altitude of 1,424m, is the highest village in Catalonia. \"Get off the bus in Salardu,\" she told me. \"Then take the walking trail to Bagergue. It's a beautiful walk, even in the snow, and at the top you can try the cheese!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bfcmkq"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Village of Unha with church tower and stone houses in front of mountain","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the hiking trail was snowed under when I jumped off the bus. Without snowshoes or cross-country skis, I took the 2km-long tarmacked road instead. Churches rise high above every village in Val d'Aran, and there was one standing tall at the entrance to Bagergue. Constructed in a local Romanesque style that was popular in the Middle Ages, Val d'Aran's churches were built not only as places of worship, but as castles, watchtowers and fortifications designed to guard the frontier.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBagergue is home to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.quesosdelvalledearan.com\u002F\"\u003Ethe highest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.quesosdelvalledearan.com\u002F\"\u003E-\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.quesosdelvalledearan.com\u002F\"\u003Ealtitude cheese shop\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Catalonia, where local producers have revived a traditional mountain recipe that's regained its popularity throughout Val d'Aran; while testament to the weather and the alpine-esque culture, the villages I'd walked past to reach Bagergue – Salardu and Unha – had a museum dedicated to Pyrenean exploration and a museum solely dedicated to snow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMorell said that as much as 92% of the valley's economy relies on tourism: hiking, mountain biking and rafting in the summer; and snow sports in the winter. Despite its official status and legal protections, Sans Socasau had mentioned that increasing tourism and immigration in Val d'Aran was resulting in Aranese being slowly being pushed out by larger languages like Spanish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Not enough people speak Aranese,\" Sans Socasau said. \"Only around 20% of people in Val d'Aran speak the language regularly, at home. The language is in danger, and in 20 or 30 years, it might not even exist.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDel Valle sees things differently. Even if she speaks Spanish or Catalan as a way to communicate with tourists or newcomers, she also speaks Aranese at work, and she knows the second generation of migrant families settling in Val d'Aran all learn and are taught in Aranese at school. Indeed, the government estimates that around 80% of people who live in the valley understand Aranese, even if they don't always speak it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"If you talk to the president of the Aranese language society,\" del Valle told me, \"he will say that Aranese is about to die. But Aranese is an official language in \u003Cem\u003Eall \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eof Catalonia. That gives our language some power, and even though we might speak Catalan or Spanish in the valley to understand each other, I don't think Aranese is in danger, at least not anytime soon.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-18T20:43:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Aranese: Spain's little-known language","headlineShort":"The Spanish town lost in France","image":["p0bfcn6n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"42.7440","longitude":"0.7913","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bfcn6n"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180627-switzerlands-mysterious-fourth-language"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Geographically, Spain's Val d'Aran should be part of France, but it's neither French, Spanish nor Catalan in culture, history or even language.","summaryShort":"It has been caught between larger kingdoms and nation-states for centuries","tag":["tag\u002Flanguage","tag\u002Fborders"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-17T20:43:22.372366Z","entity":"article","guid":"c9716d5c-c50d-4876-8109-af3f69151067","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:40:20.796032Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fspain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_spain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413137},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities","_id":"62c5f67b1f4b7b40a05b5554","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran"],"bodyIntro":"Pheasant Island, located between France and Spain, bizarrely changes countries twice a year. But why?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFrom the sublime viewpoints above \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sansebastianturismoa.eus\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESan Sebastián\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the Basque Country, a hiker can see one of the world's oldest, most romantic, most biblical of paths. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190411-the-camino-de-santiagos-ancient-secret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECamino de Santiago pilgrimage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E passes this way, and the Homerian traverse to Saint James' tomb in the far western corner of northern Spain is well-trodden, proselytising many and capturing minds for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EEach year, long-distance hikers and pilgrims come here in their hundreds of thousands, but I was not one of them. Instead of the cracked valleys winding towards churches, my destination was somewhere else entirely. A strange, uninhabited place called Pheasant Island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ELooking to understand Spain's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftourism.euskadi.eus\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBasque Country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E better, I accidentally stumbled upon the two-acre sliver of land while browsing through illustrated maps of the Western Pyrenees. Sheltered in the borderlands between \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hendaye-tourisme.fr\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHendaye, France\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftourism.euskadi.eus\u002Fen\u002Ftowns\u002Firun\u002Faa30-12375\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIrun, Spain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, on the Bidasoa river flowing to the Bay of Biscay, the perplexing island is presided over by each nation for six months in turn and is a historical record of the rivalry between the countries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBorder irregularities are found throughout Europe – and the world – but a 200m-long island that swaps countries biannually is unfathomably odd. And few, curiously, know much about Pheasant Island at all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj91kl"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI learnt this much before I arrived to see the mysterious island for myself this spring. I was in the company of P\u003Cstrong\u003Eí\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003Ea Alkain Sorondo, an archaeologist who now leads \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bidatour.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewalking tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the region, and, like most people in this part of Spain, she feels a duty to keep the histories of the Basque Country alive. No matter how unusual they might be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"I love telling the story of our heritage,\" Sorondo told me, as we strolled along the French-Spanish border east of San Sebastián, and, in a way, back in time. Behind us was a collection of industrial lots, apartments and tapas-like \u003Cem\u003Epinxtos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E bars, but in front of us were archaeological Roman remains of an ancient bridge and the bygone island itself. \"There is medieval history hidden all along this riverbank, but most people walk by here without knowing any of it. That's what I'm trying to change.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"To learn the backstory here is like a discovery. It is almost a ghost island","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhen we reached our destination, a riverside park facing the isle, we were greeted by a sight like few others. Pheasant Island, browed with trees and elliptical in shape, lies just 10m from the Spanish side of the river and 20m from the French. It's of such historical importance that it's only rarely opened to visitors. At the centre was an enormous, inscribed monolith, shaped like a cenotaph, that gave a sense of the weight of centuries of history to the place. Tomb-like and grandstanding, it commemorates the meeting where the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fevent\u002FPeace-of-the-Pyrenees\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETreaty of the Pyrenees\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was negotiated in 1659.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"To learn the backstory here is like a discovery,\" Sorondo told me. \"It is almost a ghost island.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThroughout history, there has been a succession of different monikers for Pheasant Island. For starters, today's name – Isla de los Faisanes in Spanish, Faisai Uhartea in Basque, Île des Faisans in French – is a mistake. \"There are no pheasants on Pheasant Island,\" complained French novelist Victor Hugo when he visited in 1843. In fact, there are only green crested mallards and migratory birds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj91j9"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn Roman times, the island was known as \"Pausoa\", the Basque word for passage or step. Then the French translated this as \"Paysans\", meaning peasant, before transposing it as \"Faisans\", for pheasant. Over time, the name Île des Faisans stuck.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe humble island finally came into prominence in 1648, following a ceasefire at the end of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fm0001fv2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThirty Years' War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E between France and Spain, when it was chosen as a neutral space to demarcate the new borderlands. In fact, 24 summits took place, with military escorts on standby should talks breakdown. Eleven years later, the Treaty of the Pyrenees peace accord was struck.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ETo honour the occasion, a royal wedding was mooted, and, in 1660, French King Louis XIV married the daughter of King Philip IV, Maria Theresa of Spain, on the spot of the declaration. Wooden bridges were built to ease passage, royal parties arrived in state barges and carriages, and tapestries and paintings were commissioned. Diego Velázquez, court painter to Philip and whose magnum opus remains \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museodelprado.es\u002Fen\u002Fthe-collection\u002Fart-work\u002Flas-meninas\u002F9fdc7800-9ade-48b0-ab8b-edee94ea877f\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELas Meninas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a portrait of Margaret Theresa with her maids of honour) was put in charge of arranging much of the festivities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ESo symbolic was Pheasant Island as a metaphor of peace, in fact, that it was decided both countries would have joint custody of the territory. Spain would hold stewardship from 1 February to 31 July each year, while Pheasant Island would become an official part of France for the other six months. In that moment, the world's smallest condominium was born.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBy definition, condominiums are places determined by the presence of at least more than one sovereign state. The sense is derived from Latin, with \"com\" implying \"together\" and \"dominium\" meaning \"right of ownership\". And over the centuries, numerous countries have become embroiled in geographic tug o' wars over condominiums, with governments spending decades happily arguing the finer points of who owns what and why. Most aren't centres of empire, but rather experimental, geopolitical addendums.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj91hz"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAt least for now, there are eight in the world, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bodensee.eu\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake Constance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the tridominium between Austria, Germany and Switzerland; the Brčko District shared by Bosnia and Herzegovina; and the disputed territory of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vladars.net\u002Feng\u002FPages\u002Fdefault.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERepublika Srpska\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Then there is the Joint Regime Area, a shared maritime zone between Colombia and Jamaica; and the Abyei Area contested by South Sudan and Sudan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother is the Moselle river and its tributaries the Sauer and the Our – a riverine condominium shared between Germany and Luxembourg; while the Gulf of Fonseca is a tripartite condominium portioned up by Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua. Antarctica is the last but also the largest and most momentous, a theoretical continental condominium, governed by the 29 signatories of the Antarctic Treaty that have consulting status.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOn the day of my visit to Pheasant Island, the territory was in the hands of the Spanish. A group of kayakers was exploring its nooks from the water, and, on land, only one passer-by stopped to take photographs. Besides administering the gardening, maintaining the boat landing site, discussing fishing rights and monitoring the water quality, there isn't much for the Spanish to do on a month-to-month basis. Visitors  are only allowed onto the island on rare occasions: either on one of the bi-annual handover days, when the island is abuzz with activity during the official ceremony, with flags, delegates, diplomats and plenty of formal pomp; or as part of ad-hoc, occasional heritage tours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOne alarming development reverberating around the border communities, however, is the number of immigrants trying to illegally cross the river from Spain into France. The day before I arrived, a foreign national had drowned while attempting to swim across and, as Sorondo and I talked history and Basque politics, a police boat sifted through the waters looking for the body.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0cj91hg"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ECurrent figures from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Feuskalherriaharreraherria.info\u002Fcas\u002Fquienes.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIrungo Harrera Sarea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Irun's NGO, estimates that up to 30 migrants arrive every day seeking safe passage north into France. As a tidal channel, the Bidasoa has an abrupt 3-4m height differential, with the river flowing up and downstream from the official border on the National Road bridge like a full-frontal attack.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"This is still a place of new hope for so many,\" Sorondo said, \"but it is also a death trap.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWith such sorrowful words lingering in the air, just one clinching thought played around in my head before I left. Pheasant Island may be an unremembered, historical footnote of an island. But in our ever-variegated, unpredictable world of border disagreements and land grabs, it is a symbol of peace and one that we should never forget.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-07-07T20:43:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Europe's island that swaps nationalities","headlineShort":"The isle that France and Spain share","image":["p0cj91l5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.3428","longitude":"-1.7655","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0cj91l5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220628-the-worlds-weirdest-border","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220117-aranese-spains-little-known-language","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Pheasant Island, located between France and Spain, bizarrely changes countries twice a year. But why?","summaryShort":"This curious geographic transaction has been going on for more than 350 years","tag":["tag\u002Fborders"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-06T20:54:01.370635Z","entity":"article","guid":"7e646ff5-0f96-4445-96a8-432617556f6a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-08T13:06:28.057714Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220706-europes-island-that-swaps-nationalities","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ffrance","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fspain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_france_europe_spain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413132},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist","_id":"62b420341f4b7b28d576035e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsarah-reid"],"bodyIntro":"Most people haven’t even heard of Transnistria, the breakaway state of Moldova that hugs its border with Ukraine. And that’s partly what makes it so fascinating to visit.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy the time the morning sun had crept above the city’s Soviet-era apartment blocks, the crowd-control barriers lining Suvorov Square in downtown Tiraspol were already three-deep with families dressed in their Sunday (in this case, Monday) best. Their collective excitement was almost palpable on this surprisingly warm September day; anyone would have thought a royal wedding was on the cards.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-18284837\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETransnistria\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (also spelled Trans-Dniester), a sliver of land tracing Moldova’s border with Ukraine for 400km, the capital’s Independence Day celebrations are the highlight of the year. Never mind that the tiny Eastern European nation, formally called the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic (PMR), doesn’t officially exist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0829h5w"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnrecognised as a nation by any member of the United Nations despite declaring its independence in 1990, a year before the Soviet Union crumbled, Transnistria is a wonderfully peculiar place. Less than 70km south-east of the Moldovan capital of Chisinau, Tiraspol (pop: 130,000) is often described as being stuck in the USSR. Indeed, from the imperious statue of Lenin guarding Transnistria’s Brutalist parliament building to its streets named after Communist luminaries and significant dates, it’s certainly not short on Soviet-era relics.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We have our own constitution, government, military, currency and even passports","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith highlights including a fancy rifle-twizzling routine and military commanders zooming around in Soviet-era jeeps saluting assembled troops, the 2019 military parade marking Transnistria’s 29th year of self-declared independence didn’t exactly challenge the stereotype. That was until the band launched into a rendition of American rock group Survivor’s 1982 hit “Eye of the Tiger”, providing the first hint that, despite technically being part of Moldova and bankrolled by Russia, this proud little “country” marches to its own beat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It makes us sad that our independence isn’t officially recognised, but we feel independent,” explained public servant Vera Galchenko as she helped a nonagenarian military veteran into a taxi following the 45-minute parade, his frail body buckling under the weight of World War Two medals. “We have our own constitution, government, military, currency and even passports,” she said proudly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0829hbg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut with no direct access to the only three states that recognise Transnistria (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-18175030\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAbkhazia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-18270325\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENagorno-Karabakh\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, also known as the Republic of Artsakh; and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-18269210\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouth Ossetia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – all also disputed territories), the passport is essentially useless to its 500,000-odd residents. However, most hold dual or triple nationality with Russia, Moldova or Ukraine, so they’re not exactly trapped in this landlocked enclave characterised by sleepy villages, abandoned Soviet factories, and vineyards that supply Tiraspol’s enormous Kvint brandy distillery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESince Transnistria declared independence 30 years ago, Tiraspol’s population has actually decreased by at least a third, with most residents having left to seek work in Russia due to declining economic prospects following the fall of the USSR. But while life is not easy in this presidential democracy, where wages are even lower than in Moldova (one of Europe’s poorest countries), while exploring the region I learned that many are content with the life here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEurope's strange border anomaly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170114-the-places-that-dont-exist\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe places that don't exist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170824-the-us-land-lost-in-canada\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe US land lost in Canada\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We’ve got a good climate, good local products like fruits and vegetables and there’s help from abroad,” said Andrey Smolenskiy, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftransnistria-tour.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETransnistria Tour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Smolenskiy explained that his company became Tiraspol’s first travel agency to work with tourists coming from abroad in 2011. By “abroad”, he means Russia, which builds hospitals and schools in Transnistria, supplies its power and subsidises the pensions of its ageing population.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0829hck"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETransnistria makes no bones about its love for what Smolenskiy refers to fondly as the “mother country”. While Transnistria’s three main ethnic groups are similar in size, Russian is the common tongue. Russian flags flutter alongside Transnistrian flags (the world’s only national flag that still bears the hammer and sickle insignia) on the city’s buildings, and during the Independence Day parade, in which Russian soldiers also take part, novelty flags are sold with both flags on the same stick.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Transnistria has historically considered itself a part of the Russian cultural space,” explained Anatolii Dirun, academic supervisor at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.edinstvopmr.ru\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETiraspol School of Political Studies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “Not to mention the fact that Russia is the guarantor of peace for Transnistria.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite nearly a third of its 1,500 troops forming part of a trilateral peacekeeping force, the Operational Group of Russian Forces (OGRF)’s presence in Transnistria irks Moldovan and Western officials. But with one of the largest USSR weapons dumps in Europe under their guard just 2km from the Ukrainian border, it’s no wonder Russia has ignored calls from the UN to withdraw its troops. Plus, it has the support of Transnistria’s pro-Russian government, which considers the ORGF (which also takes part in the Independence Day parade) an essential stabilising force.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0829hd1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGiven Transnistria’s rocky start on its road to independence, it’s easy to understand why. In the late 1980s, growing nationalist sentiments in the Moldovan Soviet Socialist Republic (Moldovan SSR; one of the 15 republics of the USSR and now known as the Republic of Moldova) unsettled the primarily Russian-speaking ethnic minorities in Transnistria (then part of the Moldovan SSR). A move to ban the Russian language was the last straw, prompting Transnistria to safeguard its cultural heritage by proclaiming the independent Pridnestrovian Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic (PMSSR) on 2 September 1990.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDesperate to keep a fracturing Soviet Union together, then-leader of the USSR Mikhail Gorbachev declared the proclamation of the PMSSR null, paving the way for the Moldovan SSR to declare its own independence – with its territory encompassing Transnistria – in 1991. Tensions between the two regions escalated to a military conflict in March 1992, and by the time a ceasefire was declared a few months later in July, at least 1,000 people had died. Aside from a few ceasefire violations in the early years, however, Transnistria has been at “peace” ever since. Not that you’d know it from the headlines – or the travel advisories.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Stories about the tense situation in the region are a product of the myth of instability in the region,” said Durin. “Everyone who has been to Tiraspol notes how calm it is.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile there’s no denying regional political tensions continue to run high, with Moldova at the centre of a seemingly never-ending \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-48572304\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etug-of-war between Russia and the EU\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, I discovered that “calm” is a fair description of Tiraspol. Despite the strangeness of this semi-deserted city from a bygone era, rarely have I felt safer wandering the streets of a European capital. And while big crowds are something I would usually avoid in a frozen conflict zone, the Independence Day celebrations couldn’t have been more family-friendly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0829hg4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the last battalion of soldiers marched out of Suvorov Square, 25th October St (Tiraspol’s main boulevard) morphed into what can perhaps best be described as a multi-ethnic sideshow alley. Between browsing street stalls peddling nationalist trinkets and artisanal bread decorated with Communist symbols, I paused to watch a gaggle of grannies with Pavlovsky shawls knotted under their chins jig to Russian folk music blaring from portable speakers. Nearby, children queued to have their photo taken brandishing a vintage \u003Cem\u003Eshashka\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a sabre sword used by the Cossacks, and small groups of students milled about wearing colourfully embroidered traditional regional dress.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe celebrations spilled into a leafy park sandwiched between 25th October St and the lazy steel-blue curve of the Dniester River, which roughly marks Transnistria’s border with Moldova. Here I watched pre-teens pummel each other in a makeshift boxing arena, joined families queuing for plates of pork shashlik sizzling on mobile grills, and looked on amused as children gleefully clambered over the Soviet-era tanks, anti-aircraft guns and other artillery wheeled out to showcase Transnistria’s military might.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We need to make it easier for people to come and experience Transnistria","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the sun began its retreat for the day, setting the golden domes of the Church of the Nativity behind Suvorov Square aglow, a series of scantily clad popstars took turns belting out Eurovision-esque hits on the temporary stage that had been erected for the morning’s presidential address. Having expected the revelry to kick on beyond the 21:00 fireworks, I was surprised to emerge from a local restaurant shortly afterwards to find the city quiet once more, save for the rattle of Soviet-era trolley buses rumbling along cracked concrete streets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0829hgr"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith few attractions and even less tourism infrastructure beyond Tiraspol, many of Transnistria’s estimated 20,000 annual visitors come on day trips from Moldova. Indeed, with regular buses from Chisinau to Tiraspol and visa-free entry to Transnistria (a hotel reservation must be produced at the border posts maintained by the Transnistrian military to stay more than one day), it’s relatively easy to visit – although navigating the nation as a non-Russian speaker is no simple task. It’s a shame, for the semi-restored 15th-Century Bendery Fort near the Moldovan border and the serene 19th-Century Noul Neamț Monastery in Chitcani, not to mention the quirky Soviet monuments hidden in Tiraspol’s backstreets, make it well worth staying for a few days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Tourism is something we need to work on,” Galchenko told me before we parted ways at the parade. “We need to make it easier for people to come and experience Transnistria.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut while increased tourism could no doubt give Transnistria’s flagging economy a boost, exploring Eastern Europe’s forgotten frontier before it’s on the map – the tourist map, at least – is half the fun. With Moldova reluctant to give it up, and Russia unlikely to get out, becoming a truly independent nation may remain a pipedream for the people who call Transnistria home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-02-06T20:37:15Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Celebrating a nation that doesn’t exist","headlineShort":"The ‘nation’ with a useless passport","image":["p0829hhz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0829hhz"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Most people haven’t even heard of Transnistria, the breakaway state of Moldova that hugs its border with Ukraine. And that’s partly what makes it so fascinating to visit.","summaryShort":"It’s Europe's forgotten frontier","tag":["tag\u002Ffestivals","tag\u002Fcultural-activities","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:44:05.065754Z","entity":"article","guid":"7d8c16a4-5e7c-4752-817a-e441b4dd4ffa","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:03:38.54865Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413144,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmoldova","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_moldova_europe"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers","_id":"62b420361f4b7b28cd2509ef","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Usually Hallstatt would open its doors to almost 10,000 visitors a day. But amid Covid-19, everything has changed for the near-800 locals who call this charming Austrian village home.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESelena Taylor makes her living road-tripping across continents and flying to disparate locations, but each place she visits must have a certain aesthetic. As a travel blogger and photographer, Taylor hunts out the world’s most charming destinations and shares her exploits with her \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Ffinduslost\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E175,000 Instagram followers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Knowing your audience is key,” said Taylor on what makes a post popular.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn February 2020, Taylor visited the village of Hallstatt, located in Austria’s Salzkammergut region, that’s beloved by Instagrammers and influencers for its scenic beauty. She was drawn to the “charming homes and cafes, beautiful backdrops and prime location on the water,” she said. “Hallstatt has grown popular in recent years and it checks a lot of boxes that make it appealing.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The world had stopped turning. It was frightening, quiet and calm","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETaylor spent several days wandering the streets of this fairy-tale village, drinking coffee amongst the mountain landscape and watching the sun set across the lake. But a month after Taylor ticked Hallstatt off her bucket list, this tiny village went from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.harpersbazaar.com.sg\u002Flife\u002F10-most-instagrammable-places-world-jetsetting-influencers\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eone of the most Instagrammed places on Earth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to Harper’s Bazaar, to experiencing something it hasn’t for years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESilence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt this time of year, the village of near 800 people would ordinarily open its doors to almost 10,000 daily visitors. The sound of reversing coaches and conversation in countless languages would fill the air, and the sky would be illuminated by flashes from digital cameras.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn 16 March, though, lockdown was implemented across Austria, changing everything for the locals who call Hallstatt home. “It was like living in a ghost village,” said Hallstatt resident Sonja Katharina. “The world had stopped turning. It was frightening, quiet and calm. There were no cars, no buses and no tourists. We could even hear the swans swimming.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190805-does-this-schnitzel-define-vienna\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDoes this schnitzel define Vienna?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170818-how-innsbruck-sold-bells-to-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow Innsbruck sold bells to the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20150513-viennas-recipe-for-living-well\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVienna's recipe for living well\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs the initial shock made way for the warmer spring months, Katharina has been enjoying the benefits of solitude. She can drive through the streets without risk of oncoming pedestrians and spends her days cycling the Seestraße, or “Lake Street”, Hallstatt’s most photographed road that would usually be packed with around 4,000 tourists per day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The positives were that we had time to speak to each other – from a distance of course,” Katharina laughed. “We don’t have to hurry, and you learn to think about what is really important in life.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike Katharina, others are cherishing the change in pace. “The drop in tourism happened more or less completely unexpectedly,” said local musician Gerhard Hallstatt. “All of a sudden, Hallstatt has gone back to its roots.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA decade ago, the village received around 100 visitors a day. Now, pre-Covid-19, reports  more than 1 million overnight stays per year. In the summer months, many travel from across Asia, the US and UK; while in autumn and winter, tourists from nearby countries like Poland, Hungary, Germany and Czech Republic are enticed by the many mountain biking, climbing and hiking trails open at points throughout the year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhy is Hallstatt so popular? Some reasons are easily explained. Hallstatt and the surrounding region was awarded in 1997 for its magnificent Alpine landscape and ancient salt mining tradition. Its salt mine – one of the world’s oldest – welcomed 19,700 visitors from January until 15 March this year, all keen to learn the history of these 7,000-year-old tunnels or stare out at the mesmerising views of the salt lake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESince lockdown hit, it’s been zero. And while locals may be reconnecting with their roots, this also brings uncertainty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Hallstatt has always been a tourist hot spot, so a lot of people have lost their work or have reduced working hours,” said Kurt Reiger, CEO of the Hallstatt salt mine. “It doesn't feel like having an old town back because our old town was always filled with tourists, a situation we love.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"All of a sudden, Hallstatt has gone back to its roots","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOther reasons for Hallstatt’s allure are more unexpected. In 2006, episodes of the popular South Korean soap opera Spring Waltz were filmed in and around Hallstatt, which introduced the village to millions in Asia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd Chinese tourists flock here too, partly thanks to the Chinese mining company Minmetals, which in 2012 unveiled a life-size replica of Hallstatt in the Chinese province of Guangdong. Since then, tourists have travelled thousands of miles to experience the real thing. The build reportedly cost more than 6.5bn yuan (£738m) and acts as a high-end property development for the wealthy, rather than the “pearl of Austria” as the original is known.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETravellers also descend on Hallstatt thanks to the hugely popular animated film Frozen. Many people believe that Hallstatt’s spires and frosted mountaintops are the inspiration behind much of Frozen’s fictional fantasy land, the kingdom of Arendelle. There is just one problem to this claim. It isn’t true.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“When it comes to Frozen, that’s just rumours,” said Gregor Gritzky, CEO of the local tourist board \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdachstein.salzkammergut.at\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDachstein Salzkammergut\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “We’ve had international press ask about it, but it’s all rumour.” In reality, the true inspiration behind Frozen is found in several locations across Norway, from Oslo’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitoslo.com\u002Fen\u002Fproduct\u002F?TLp=14900\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAkershus Fortress\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.visitbergen.com\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fbryggen-in-bergen-p878553\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eold merchant quarter of Bryggen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Bergen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat can be accurately believed, however, is that the village’s reputation as Austria’s most beautiful location has perhaps made Hallstatt too Instagram-friendly. Searching #Hallstatt on Instagram brings up more than 600,000 perfectly framed holiday snaps from tourists in choreographed poses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Tourism has two sides of the coin. There have been challenges with the number of guests, but it’s good for the municipality to have tourists,” Gritzky said. “We want people to do more than just take a picture, not get off the bus and go to the next place.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The people of Hallstatt are glad to share the beauty of the village with friends and guests from all over the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile bringing obvious financial benefits, this level of tourism, has come with side effects. Some locals have complained of tourists turning up unannounced in their gardens, and drones are a common grievance. In January, Hallstatt's tourism chiefs took steps to limit tourist buses to 50 per day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut, while more recent travel restrictions due to Covid-19 have given locals some well-deserved rest, many residents are beginning to miss the visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“It’s a beautiful feeling to have some empty lanes for ‘ourselves’, but the people of Hallstatt are glad to share the beauty of the village with friends and guests from all over the world,” Gerhard Hallstatt said. “The villagers – like all those who live in touristy areas – have a certain love-hate relationship to tourism, but a huge amount of the population depends on it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere is good news for the village’s recovery, as local tourists are beginning to return as lockdown measures ease across Austria. In mid-May, Simon König and his partner, who live around an hour’s drive from Hallstatt, took the golden opportunity to “visit this beautiful place without the mass tourism”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s never been so beautiful,” König remembered. “When we arrived, there were literally no people around except the locals working on their properties. Around midday, some people came from the surrounding communities for the same reason we did.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Hallstatt, some hotels have just reopened, and so too have the famous salt mines. There are still more challenges to come: “I think tourism will take time [to return], but one of the biggest questions is who will be able to come and in what timespan?” said Gritzky.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut for Taylor, Hallstatt hasn’t lost what makes it special, even if it remains off limits “Hallstatt is particularly unique,” she said. “It is one of the few ‘trendy’ destinations that really exceeds expectations in person.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-06-04T21:05:21Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Austria’s tiny village with 10,000 day-trippers","headlineShort":"Austria’s town that lost its visitors","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Usually Hallstatt would open its doors to almost 10,000 visitors a day. But amid Covid-19, everything has changed for the near-800 locals who call this charming Austrian village home.","summaryShort":"\"It was like living in a ghost village\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:50:13.813499Z","entity":"article","guid":"ab26d510-9b5c-44f1-97e5-9c5db3f4c225","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:10:17.122475Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200603-hallstatt-austrias-tiny-village-with-10000-day-trippers","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413136},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land","_id":"62b420371f4b7b2e3835a074","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Foliver-smith"],"bodyIntro":"In 2020, Covid-19 saw Offa's Dyke reawaken from centuries of slumber, with lockdowns in England and Wales meaning the border was effectively shut for the first time in centuries.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe old rules were simple. Legend tells that every Englishman found west of the dyke was hanged. Every Welshman who ventured east of the dyke had their ears chopped off.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This year has seen this sleepy borderland thrust into the spotlight","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe dyke in question is Offa’s Dyke, a 1,200-year-old earthwork that spans the length of the England-Wales border. Like Hadrian’s Wall, The Great Wall of China (and, come to think of it, The Wall from Game of Thrones), Offa’s Dyke divided lands. It marked a threshold between Anglo-Saxons and Celts, plains and mountains, life and death, ears and no ears.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut unlike Hadrian’s Wall and the Great Wall of China, there is not much of it left to see. Today, dandelions and nettles sprout where battlements once rose. Generations of sheep have trodden on the dyke. It is now only a small bump – a hiccup in the fields. If an invading army were to cross it today, the best you could hope for is that they trip over the dyke and go home with a sprained ankle. Or maybe a nosebleed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09131r6"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI was walking a section of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrail.co.uk\u002Fen_GB\u002Ftrails\u002Foffas-dyke-path\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOffa’s Dyke Path\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 285km-long trail that travels the ruined sections of the dyke and weaves in and out of England and Wales, like a needle sewing a stitch. Being part-Welsh and part-English, I’ve long had an affinity with this mongrel path – having walked many parts of it over the years. Some of the UK’s footpaths stride heroically through the landscape, but Offa’s Dyke Path seems to bumble indecisively between the two countries, as if it were looking for something it never quite finds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis summer I followed the Wye Valley section in South Wales. Over two days I passed woodlands where toadstools sprout under ancient oaks; lofty hills where you step in and out of low clouds; cider orchards quiet but for the thud of falling apples. In one of my favourite parts, the path passes the Devil’s Pulpit – a rocky outcrop on the edge of England – where legend tells Satan himself would preach, trying to tempt the monks of Tintern Abbey across the river in Wales. To me, both sides looked celestial in the morning sunshine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELike the dyke itself, the England-Wales border is mostly invisible. Looking at a map, I could see it following rivers and streams, vaulting over garden fences. Further to the north, the border is more mischievous. It runs through \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-merseyside-54660888\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea professional football club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, trespasses on the fairway of a golf course and elbows its way through a pub car park. For hikers on the Offa’s Dyke Path, walking with this border is rather like walking a dog: sometimes it trots obediently by your side, sometimes it disappears into a bush. Still, you know it’s always somewhere nearby, keeping you company.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09131nh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis year has seen this sleepy borderland thrust into the spotlight. England and Wales have shared a single set of laws since the 16th Century (among other things, they also share a police federation and a cricket team). But throughout Covid-19 they have taken separate paths. In June and July – as the first lockdown was initially eased in England, the Welsh authorities were more cautious, enforcing a far stricter set of rules for longer. Welsh police \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-wales-politics-52704929\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eissued fines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to visitors crossing over from England. Homemade signs – “Wales is closed, go home!” – appeared on the roadsides. Again, in October and November, Wales and England enforced lockdowns at different times, with police even setting up checkpoints on the border. In 2020, a boundary whose porousness had long been taken for granted has been, at various points, effectively shut. There is, perhaps, the faintest echo of the Middle Ages, when the dyke was part of a hostile frontier that few dared cross.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny country between England and Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191008-the-british-isle-that-doesnt-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe British island that's not in the UK\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe British town with a third 'nationality'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EInto the political debate surrounding Covid-19 has come Offa’s Dyke. Some on social media have made calls to “rebuild Offa’s Dyke” to stop infections arriving from England. With some in England prevented from visiting family over the border in Wales, a few have referred to the dyke as a “Berlin Wall”. It is not the first time the dyke has been politicised: years before, then-prime minister David Cameron called Offa’s Dyke “\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-wales-politics-26956254\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe line between life and death\u003C\u002Fa\u003E”, referring to Wales’ National Health Service.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Borders have that ability to be manipulated in different directions,” said Howard Williams, professor of archaeology at Chester University and editor of  \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Foffaswatsdyke.wordpress.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Offa’s Dyke Collaboratory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “The dyke has been weaponised – but the reality is a much more complex story.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09131mc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWilliams works in England and lives close by in Wales: he commuted over Offa’s Dyke and the border prior to Covid-19 and has witnessed first-hand the two countries’ different approaches to lockdown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe insists Offa’s Dyke isn’t a useful analogy for modern times: not least because it was never built to divide England from Wales. It was most likely built in the 8th Century by Offa, King of Mercia (in the present-day Midlands) as a defence against various competing Welsh kingdoms to the west. It might have had timber ramparts, with thorny plants growing in a ditch below. It’s speculated it was used to control trade and levy taxes. But Howard believes that the dyke was primarily a statement of Offa’s power to his own Mercian subjects – a continuing tradition of rulers building walls to suit political agendas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Offa is trying to make himself look like a Roman emperor,” said Williams. “It’s as if he’s saying: ‘Make Mercia great again!’\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere is no section of the Offa’s Dyke Path greater than the Black Mountains, a day or so’s hike north-west from the Wye Valley. Here, the frontiers of England and Wales touch on the crest of a mountain ridge, as if the two countries were tectonic plates colliding and rearing up out of the land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor about 14km, the path itself marks the border. I made my way north: left boot in Wales, right boot in England. The last of the summer swallows darted through the cool mountain air and wild ponies skipped about the heather. From these windy heights, you get a god-like perspective on both nations. To the east was England with its web of hedgerows, a putter of combine harvesters, the rolling Herefordshire hills that inspired the cadences of Edward Elgar. And to the west were the Brecon Beacons on whose treeless summits storms stew; a range that seemed to mutter of ancient Welsh myths.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09131l0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI came back down to Earth to the tiny market town of Hay-on-Wye (mostly in Wales, although the local supermarket is in England), snuggled in a fold of the hills. One local told me that one or two residents had been sneaking over the border to visit English pubs. But when I visited in late August, Welsh pubs had just reopened and tourists had returned. I stopped to rest my legs and have a pint.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The dyke has been weaponised – but the reality is a much more complex story","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor now, both England and Wales will be facing stricter restrictions over the Christmas period. But beyond coronavirus, it seems likely Offa’s Dyke will pop up again in political discourse. Though the popularity of Welsh nationalism lags far behind its Scottish counterpart, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.walesonline.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fwales-news\u002Fsupport-welsh-independence-soars-new-16911177\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea poll by YouGov\u003C\u002Fa\u003E last year shows support for an independent Wales soaring – with strong approval among young people in particular. To walk the Offa’s Dyke Path today is to travel the longest and the oldest seam in the union of the United Kingdom – the seam whose breaking would mean its final and total undoing. It is currently under more strain than at any time in recent memory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStill, the path north from Hay-on-Wye to Knighton felt far from these considerations. It is distant from the governments of Westminster and Cardiff Bay, and there was often no phone signal to check debates on social media. It was hard to think of a more peaceful place than these dark woods and slow rivers on the margins of two countries. It still felt like a no-man’s land: a place often glanced out a car window on the road to elsewhere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09131jc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn my way out of Hay-on-Wye, I met Chris Stuart, a civil celebrant at funerals, from Worcester, about 50km east of the border. He is a veteran of long-distance paths and had come for the weekend to revisit the trail he conquered years before. We agreed the appeal of walking the Offa’s Dyke Path is never being sure which country you are in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s strange because for 50 yards you’re in England, for 50 yards you’re in Wales,” he said. But Stuart also thinks there is another division at play. “When you’re out walking the landscape and you meet someone, they chat to you – but once you get into the towns, there are day trippers; they don’t want to engage. The path has its own camaraderie.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI said goodbye to Stuart, an Englishman who feels alive when he is walking the green hills of Wales. And nearby I expect there were Welshmen on the trail, listening to the birdsong of England with their ears still attached.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-12-21T13:31:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Offa’s Dyke: Britain’s unmarked ‘no-man’s land’","headlineShort":"Britain’s ancient, resurrected border","image":["p09131l0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p09131l0"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In 2020, Covid-19 saw Offa's Dyke reawaken from centuries of slumber, with lockdowns in England and Wales meaning the border was effectively shut for the first time in centuries.","summaryShort":"This year has seen this part of the UK thrust into the spotlight","tag":["tag\u002Fhiking"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:59:09.526501Z","entity":"article","guid":"6ce2fe82-0c5a-45f8-946a-8ae0f5529e02","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:19:51.268487Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201215-offas-dyke-britains-unmarked-no-mans-land","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fwales"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain_wales","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413138},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality","_id":"62b420491f4b7b2940527949","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran"],"bodyIntro":"Berwick-upon-Tweed has long existed on the borders of change between England and Scotland – a predicament that’s led to the creation of an altogether different identity.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHere’s a quick geography quiz. Picture a town with attractions including the salmon-stocked River Tweed and Scotsgate, part of a boundary of carefully preserved defensive walls. Nearby, there is a museum dedicated to the history of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kosb.co.uk\u002Fmuseum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe King’s Own Scottish Borderers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E infantry regiment. A Royal Bank of Scotland and a Bank of Scotland stand almost adjacent to each other on a main street, while The Rob Roy B&B, to the south, overlooks mist rolling in from the sea. One final clue: the local team plays in the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fslfl.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELowland League\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the fifth tier of Scottish football. Where are you?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Berwick was a ping-pong ball for centuries","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s a trick question, of course.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYou’re not in Scotland, but in the northernmost town in England. This is \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Fuk_news\u002Fpolitics\u002Felection_2010\u002Fengland\u002F8640148.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBerwick-upon-Tweed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a harbour settlement on a hooked-shaped estuary on the sand-blasted Northumberland coast. And yet, historical quirks and head-scratching peculiarities from all perspectives make you think of the country’s northern neighbour, just 4km away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08qcr5m"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat’s because, long before the town became English, Berwick-upon-Tweed was as Scottish as Edinburgh, Dundee or Glasgow. In the 1120s, it was one of only two royal burghs in Scotland, with a teeming quayside that laboured as one of the biggest ports in Britain. For almost 200 years, merchants took wool and yarn to Flanders, France and beyond, with history claiming that the port generated a quarter of the equivalent tax revenue for all of England. This was Berwick-upon-Tweed’s lucrative golden age and the \"Alexandria of the North\", as the town was known, was the most important economic anchor in Scotland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat, according to Derek Sharman, a local historian who’s been studying the town’s tangled timeline for 33 years, is just the start of the story. Because from this point in Berwick-upon-Tweed’s curious history, the tiny harbour town then feverishly swapped sides in a political and economic tug of war between the two nations. In fact, it did so a bewildering 13 times.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Berwick was a ping-pong ball for centuries,” said Sharman, when we met on an aglow July morning for a walk through the town’s living history. “It was captured, controlled, sacked, traded and fought over, time and again. Both nations wanted control of Berwick. But these shifting allegiances have led to the town having its own inimitable sense of independence – and today there’s not any feeling of English or Scottish sentiment or nationalism.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08qcr4j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs Sharman puts it, the town now has a palpable third identity. “People here are genuinely first and foremost Berwickers,” he said. “Do we have a third ‘nationality’? You bet we do. And I say this with feeling: I’m a proud Berwicker.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETake a short stroll around the town’s historical centre today and it’s clear to see that Berwick-upon-Tweed remains a place pulled in opposing directions. If not exactly a town divided, it is one with a complex sense of its own uncommon identity. You feel you are not so much in a town as in a scrapbook of British history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo begin, start on St Andrews Place near to Queen Victoria’s Fountain and The Elizabethan Town House B&B. Wallace Green, a historical marketplace that may or may not be named after mythic Scottish warrior William Wallace, looks on to \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sawg.org.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESt Andrew’s Wallace Green and Lowick Church of Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Also in view nearby is the town’s undoubted highlight: an imposing curve of fortified walls and ramparts built during the reign of Elizabeth I.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA tiny 'country' between England and Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermany's tiny geographic oddity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191209-unst-a-real-life-treasure-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK's real-life treasure island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe most expensive and ambitious project during the English monarch’s dogged regime, the arrowhead-shaped bastions were built 450 years ago to keep out the unwelcome Scots. From here, you can see the one-time border country, home to some 30 battlefields and fought over for centuries by the two warring nations. Not for lack of history, there are no souvenir stalls, no postcards, no other visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis understatement is typical of Berwick-upon-Tweed: only a laminated plaque hints at the structure being one of the best-preserved examples of fortified walls in Europe. Elsewhere, the platform of the town’s railway station is built where the Great Hall of Berwick Castle once stood. All manner of kings and nobles – King David I of Scotland, Edward I of England, banner-wavers Robert the Bruce and Richard the Lionheart among them – played a role in the fortress’ history during the border squabbles. Not that the commuters rushing through to elsewhere today would ever know.          \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08qcr41"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The border has never mattered to locals,” said Jarman, as we walked with views over the River Tweed, which helped establish the England-Scotland border in its current form in 1237. “But Berwickers have great pride in what the town has been over the centuries. It’s a warranted pride, not a pin-on-your-shoulder pride. Our identity – though complicated – runs deep.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Do we have a third ‘nationality’? You bet we do.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, there is a sense that this complex third “nationality” is driven not only by nuances in dialect, attitude and self-reliance, but by the service town’s isolation and anxiety over creeping financial disparity from the rest of north-east England. Though not geographically far from Newcastle, at just more than 100km north, there is a lack of sustainable industry, and Berwickers feel cut off, economically, psychologically and otherwise. As if, in fact, their town is an island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnother peculiarity about Berwick-upon-Tweed: it took until 1746 – nearly 40 years after the formal union between England and Scotland in 1707 – for an act of parliament to officially recognise the town as part of Britain. Captured for the final time by the English in 1482, it wasn’t until the Wales and Berwick Act 1746 – nearly three centuries later – that Berwick-upon-Tweed was fully annexed to England, rather than its previous status of being ruled by England but not officially part of it. How does the historian explain that?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08qcr2g"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Prior to 1746, Berwick had been ‘of the Kingdom of England, but not in it’,” Jarman said, reading from a photocopy of an archive document. “It’s a contradiction in terms, of course, and a direct result of the Treaty of Perpetual Peace brokered by James IV of Scotland and Henry VII of England in 1502. What it meant was that Berwick was semi-independent – it was a little kingdom all of its own.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If we go to Newcastle, we’re Scottish. But if we go to Edinburgh, we’re English.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAway from the town’s historical core, along the cobbles to the quayside, place names reflect the borderland geography. The River Tweed, meaning “border” in an ancient Celtic tongue, flows almost between the two nations, while old salmon shiels, a Scots word describing antiquated huts for fishermen, dot the banks deep upriver into Scottish territory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the foreground, commanding the western horizon, is the magnificent Royal Border Bridge. Opened by Queen Victoria in 1850, it provided the final rail link between the two capitals, London and Edinburgh (today a four-hour ride south and 40-minute ride north-west, respectively). Rather handily, a new gateway to Scotland – and to the Queen’s holiday home \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.balmoralcastle.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBalmoral\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Aberdeenshire – was born.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08qcr1s"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESeen from the prow of a boat named “Border Rose”, while drifting upstream in the company of born-and-bred Berwicker David Thompson, the stone bridge is one of the architectural highlights of north-east England. Or as Thompson, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.berwickboattrips.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBerwick Boat Trips\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, put it, “\u003Cem\u003Emuckle bari”,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E meaning “really pretty” in the local dialect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“To be a proper Berwicker, there was a time you had to be born there,” said Thompson, pointing ahead to the town’s historical maternity hospital, which sits just beyond the bridge. “Growing up here, it’s common to feel you are in no-man’s land. If we go to Newcastle, we’re Scottish. But if we go to Edinburgh, we’re English.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo a remarkable extent, the reality of Berwick-upon-Tweed’s third “nationality” is that it has even more complications. Within the confines of the town’s broader limits, there are a number of other clearly defined identities. If you come from Tweedmouth, on the south bank of the river estuary, you are a “Twempy”. Live farther south in Spittal, meanwhile, and you are a “Spittaler”. If ever there was a setting where the concept of three places, two nations, one town, makes sense, it is here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We’re all different, of course,” said Thompson, proudly. “But we’re also part and parcel of the same broad-church, if you know what I mean. We’re all Berwickers and proud.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08qcr0r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality-18"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-09-28T23:58:03Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The British town with a third ‘nationality’","headlineShort":"Britain’s town with a split personality","image":["p08qcr4j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p08qcr4j"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Berwick-upon-Tweed has long existed on the borders of change between England and Scotland – a predicament that’s led to the creation of an altogether different identity.","summaryShort":"Its tangled history has led to an inimitable sense of independence","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:55:36.650096Z","entity":"article","guid":"ce2cc0b0-91ac-4813-ad9b-cdb18eb3d6de","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:15:58.061678Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_europe_great-britain_england","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413139},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia","_id":"62b420361f4b7b03f84bae28","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Frichard-collett"],"bodyIntro":"Fifty years ago, this remote micronation declared independence in a story of princes and princesses, taxes and treason and wheat quotas and war.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI’d never met royalty before.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EParked outside the unassuming entrance to a remote farmstead in the boundless emptiness of the Western Australian outback, I was covered in red dust and preparing to meet a “prince”. This gateway is all that separates Australia from the self-declared Principality of Hutt River, a hereditary monarchy and micronation founded on 21 April 1970 by the late Leonard Casley, a wheat farmer turned outback ruler.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We never seceded for crowns or titles. We seceded to fight injustices","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI was about to be swept up in a surreal story that’s been unfolding in this sunburned Aussie landscape since Prince Leonard’s declaration of independence 50 years ago; a story of princes and princesses, taxes and treason and wheat quotas and war.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI wiped the red dust from my sweat-soaked eyes, swatted away the flies and crossed the border.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08ms3b1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Good afternoon, Hutt River, Prince Richard speaking”. A tanned man wearing a well-worn chequered shirt had just picked up the phone as I strolled purposefully into the micronation’s “Government Offices”, single-storey building that is part museum, part immigration office and part souvenir shop. Momentarily thrown and entirely unsure of the formalities or ceremony that might surround a meeting with Hutt River royalty, I engrossed myself in the colourful Hutt River dollar notes and newspaper clippings on display while waiting somewhat nervously for “Prince” Richard Casley to finish answering questions from his caller on the subject of stamps in the micronation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Welcome to the Principality of Hutt River,” the prince addressed me formally once he’d hung up the phone. He leaned over the counter for a more laid-back, Aussie-style handshake. “I’m Prince Richard. And I’ll need your passport.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s a long road that leads to the Hutt River, and I’d driven 500km north from Perth to acquire this unusual stamp in my passport. But nation building is never easy, and my visit coincided with what was clearly a turbulent time for the self-declared country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPrince Richard informed me of the current state of affairs within the Principality while he scanned my passport with a fluorescent blue light – to detect forgeries, he said – before stamping me into the micronation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08ms37y"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Prince Leonard is in hospital in Australia,” Prince Richard explained. “And Prince Graeme is attending to important royal duties outside the Principality.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPrince Leonard would pass away on 13 February 2019, aged 93, not long after my visit to the Principality. In ailing health, he’d already abdicated in February 2017, selecting his youngest son Graeme Casley to inherit the throne.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this Australia's best-kept secret?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA treaty that changed how we travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA peculiar 'nation' off England's coast\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.principality-hutt-river.org\u002Fgov\u002FMOS\u002FPHR_MOS.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHis Royal Highness Prince Graeme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E took over the mantle as Sovereign and Head of State, in addition to holding a plethora of eccentrically charming regal and ministerial titles, including the likes of Duke of Gilboa and Grand Master of the Order of Wisdom and Learning. His brother, Prince Richard, meanwhile, holds the posts of Minister of Postal Services and Grand Master of the Illustrious Order of Merit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith a fresh stamp in my passport, I was keen to learn more about the inner workings of a micronation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We’ve had visitors from all over the world,” Prince Richard said, as he guided me back outside and into the baking-hot Hutt River sun. “We have a lot of tourists from Taiwan and Hong Kong; I think they understand what we are trying to do here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08ms366"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECalled Nain, after a town in Galilee, the capital is a small collection of dusty but well-kept buildings that’s surrounded by a lonely expanse of farmland. At 75 sq km in area, the Principality’s “borders” encompass the entirety of the Casley family’s private farm. If this micronation had formal recognition, it would be many times larger than the Vatican City, Monaco, or San Marino – all sovereign nation-states.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We have a lot of tourists from Taiwan and Hong Kong; I think they understand what we are trying to do here","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPrince Richard pointed out the buildings and structures that make up Nain, including an enormous sculpture of Prince Leonard’s head, a multi-denominational chapel and a room dedicated to both souvenirs and history (yes, I did purchase a $10 Principality of Hutt River souvenir T-shirt).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPrince Richard also made sure that I visited Princess Shirley’s Sacred Educational Shrine, built to honour his mother, Shirley Casley, who passed away in 2013. Prince Richard lamented that his mother toiled as tirelessly for the family, the farm and the country as Prince Leonard did.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Hutt River is still a working farm,” Prince Richard said, as the tour continued. Tourism has played a major role in the micronation’s economy, but the history is firmly rooted in agriculture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08ms350"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe story started when a low wheat quota imposed on Western Australian farms in 1969 would have left the Casley family with thousands of hectares of wheat they couldn’t legally sell. A frustrated Leonard took the extreme measure of declaring independence from Australia in 1970 to protest the low quotas and enable them to “export” the wheat instead. These practical, financial reasons for secession soon became blurred, however, as Leonard delved into archaic laws in search of a legal defence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELeonard justified his secession based on his personal interpretation of obscure English common laws (part of the basis of Australian law) and international laws that he believed allowed him to form what he termed an independent “Self Preservation Government”. Soon enough, he was styling himself His Royal Highness Prince Leonard I of Hutt and handing out regal titles to his family and supporters, while defiantly continuing to sell wheat across their newly founded international borders with Australia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut was this the emergence of a megalomaniac outback prince or was this all part of a savvy, political game? The answers proved to be as subjective as the very notion of sovereignty Prince Leonard strove to prove.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08ms340"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to records of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Finherit.stateheritage.wa.gov.au\u002FPublic\u002FInventory\u002FPrintSingleRecord\u002F7fdbc0c0-acd4-483e-8aa8-b916b262064e\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EState Register of Historic Places\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – in which the Principality is listed as a place of “high historic and social significance” within Australia – Leonard declared himself a prince to take legal advantage of the archaic English “Treason Act 1495”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe act was passed by a medieval English parliament, and Leonard interpreted it as protecting a de facto ruling monarch such as himself from charges of treason within the Commonwealth. He further believed that if the Australian government attempted to stop the formation of a Hutt River government, then they themselves would be committing treason against Queen Elizabeth II, the constitutional monarch of both “countries”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We have always been loyal to the Queen,” remarked Prince Richard. “We never seceded from the Crown.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EImportantly, Prince Leonard only ever claimed independence from Australia, and he would spend the rest of his life trying to prove his micronation’s sovereignty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08ms326"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Principality of Hutt River has created all the trappings that you’d expect of a sovereign nation. There’s a national flag and anthem, postal stamps and a national currency. Visitors can spend the day exploring the Principality’s museum, chapel and gardens, before spending the night under the stars at Nain’s campsite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We have always been loyal to the Queen. We never seceded from the Crown","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe real novelty of a visit to the Principality of the Hutt River, though, is having the opportunity to meet with “royalty” and to learn first-hand their story during guided tours of the micronation’s capital. Admittedly, tours don’t take too long. Although the Principality claimed a worldwide citizenry numbering in the thousands (and even issued passports to their subjects), the permanent population of Nain was never more than 30 people, consisting of Leonard and his descendants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs we walked around, Prince Richard told me that his nation’s quirky history has often been conflicted, nonchalantly mentioning that the Hutt River once went to war, “With Australia of course”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn 2 December 1977, Prince Leonard declared war on Australia, not long after losing a tax-related court case brought about by the Supreme Court of Western Australia. Two days later, he declared the war over.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08ms31x"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“War was declared, but not for the purposes of war,” Prince Richard informed me cryptically, before musing that he may or may not have seen a fighter jet flying over the Principality during the course of hostilities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was another political move, and a presumably bemused Australia said nothing. Prince Richard explained that because the Hutt River had emerged from the war undefeated, Australia should have entered into diplomatic relations with the micronation, thereby recognising the nation’s sovereignty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut Australia never recognised the independence of Hutt River. The last decade has been particularly unkind to the Principality, too. In 2017, four years on from mourning the loss of the nation’s mother, Princess Shirley, the micronation lost its latest battle in the Supreme Court of Western Australia and was subsequently handed a A$3 million bill by the Australian Tax Office.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis last court case made the Australian government’s position absolutely clear when Justice Rene Le Miere ruled that “anyone can declare themselves a sovereign in their own home, but they cannot ignore the laws of Australia or not pay tax,” \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.watoday.com.au\u002Fnational\u002Fwestern-australia\u002Fwas-hutt-river-royals-must-pay-3-million-tax-bill-after-gobbledegook-defence-fails-20170616-gwsjm3.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eas reported by WA Today\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08ms2zb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite Prince Leonard’s death last year, his family continued to raise the blue, gold and white standard of the Hutt River above the red plains of the Australian outback until 31 January 2020, when external pressure on the Hutt River’s borders and finances finally proved insurmountable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe principality at first announced that the border would be closed and government operations put on “hiatus”. A decline in agricultural and tourist revenue, alongside the high costs of running a country, were cited as the main reasons for this border closure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen, while in the middle of its 50th anniversary year and under the looming threats of a worldwide pandemic and an ever-growing tax bill, Prince Graeme bowed out. On 3 August 2020, it was announced that the Principality of Hutt River would be ceded back to Australia, and the Casley family farm would be sold to pay debts owed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe future of this remote farmstead is far from certain, but the bust of Prince Leonard’s head that stands by the border is a steadfast reminder that this isn't a story that will simply drift away into the shifting outback sands. Spectacle never strays too far from Hutt River, and yet another dramatic twist or turn in this half-century long, princely tale would be far from surprising.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Principality and its eccentric history inspired thousands to apply for citizenship, while thousands more have travelled to this remote farm in search of a unique passport stamp or a meeting with royalty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEvery nation needs a narrative, and for Prince Richard that narrative is undeniably clear.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We never seceded for crowns or titles,” he said as I prepared to cross back across the dusty outback border to Australia, “we seceded to fight injustices.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia-22"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-08-12T22:05:24Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A tiny ‘nation’ in outback Australia","headlineShort":"The micronation you can't visit","image":["p08ms37y"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p08ms37y"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Fifty years ago, this remote micronation declared independence in a story of princes and princesses, taxes and treason and wheat quotas and war.","summaryShort":"The last decade has been particularly unkind to the principality","tag":["tag\u002Fborders"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:53:33.930912Z","entity":"article","guid":"92817a3b-9fdc-48cc-96f8-249bda219ea6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:14:03.565334Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200811-a-tiny-nation-in-outback-australia","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia"],"destinationStat":"australia-and-pacific_australia","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413142},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast","_id":"62b420341f4b7b28d5760364","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran"],"bodyIntro":"Located 12km east of Suffolk in the North Sea, the Principality of Sealand is a micronation that claims to be the world’s smallest country.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis story starts with an email that I will never forget.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn a late spring morning in mid-May, Prince Michael of Sealand, leader of a micronation called the Principality of Sealand, messaged me with five clear-cut words: “You can speak to me”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was a peculiarly short prologue to a barely believable story that would take me on a historical journey through the realms of self-proclaimed kings, territorial claims, historical anomalies and World War Britain. And, as unlikely as it sounds, pirate radio stations and cockle fishing, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08j9t4m"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother fact about this exchange: it thrilled me. I’d never received an email from a prince before, and it was unlikely to ever happen again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf course, I’d come across the story of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsealandgov.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESealand\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a tiny principality off the English coast of Suffolk that claims to be the world’s smallest country, before. The micronation, in fact a solitary World War Two-era anti-aircraft platform, was first erected in 1942 as HM Fort Roughs, an armed sea fort outside of Britain's then territorial limit in the North Sea. From being occupied by up to 300 Royal Navy personnel at the height of the war to its final evacuation in 1956, the gun station was soon abandoned and left to fall into disrepair. That is, until 1966, when a former British Army major occupied it, giving birth to a new, tiny micronation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I certainly didn’t think it’d be a story that’d carry on for 50-odd years","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, it remains 12km offshore, visible up close only by boat. To look at, it is nothing special: a blasted-looking platform with a smattering of container-like buildings on top. To disembark requires braving whipping winds and moshing waves while being winched up by a crane.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut there was plenty more I didn’t know. Stories about dawn helicopter raids for one. Others about devious gangsters and an attempted coup by shady European businessmen. Even a revelation from a declassified UK government document describing the frontier as a “Cuba off the east coast of England”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08j9t35"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt all sounded like the plot to a B-movie, born from the pen of a Hollywood scriptwriter. Not from the determination of a working-class family from Essex who turned this outpost into a micronation. And yet here, in this lonely North Sea spot, dreams were born, freedom from authority was granted and British eccentricity — in all its pomp and pageant — ruled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E •  \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny 'country' between England and Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E •  \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEurope's strange border anomaly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 'nation' with a useless passport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFour days later, Prince Michael of Sealand answered my call. The micronation leader was armed with riveting tales, many of which appear in his memoir, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsealandgov.org\u002Fshop\u002Fholding-the-fort-by-michael-of-sealand\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHolding The Fort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And he was ready to divulge Sealand’s story, which largely remains unknown by the rest of the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I was only 14 when I first came out during my school summer holidays to help my dad, and I thought it’d only be a six-week adventure,” he said, speaking from his main home, a bungalow on the Essex coast. “I certainly didn’t think it’d be a story that’d carry on for 50-odd years. It was a strange upbringing, as sometimes we stayed for months on end, waiting for the boat to bring supplies from the mainland. I’d look out at the horizon and all I could see from morning to night was the North Sea.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESuch nostalgia of a place shouldn’t dilute the complexities of Sealand’s contested geopolitical circumstances. No country formally recognises Sealand, even if Prince Michael says the micronation has never asked for recognition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08j9t2h"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“We don’t expect any either,” he added, bluntly. “Remember, the platform was built illegally outside British territorial waters during a time of war – but everyone was too busy to care. The British should have destroyed it when they had the chance, but they never got ‘round to it. Now, decades later, Sealand is still here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy virtue of their size – just 0.004 sq km in Sealand’s case – micronations require us to reset our sense of scale. But what draws people to creating their own in the first place? For George Dunford, co-author of Micronations: The Lonely Planet Guide to Home-Made Nations, it’s a dissatisfaction with their current government and “wanting to do things their own way”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Sealand is a special case because it has got away with it for so long and ducked laws,” said Dunford. “In the United States, the family would have been seen as dissidents, but the UK was a more tolerant place back in the 1960s – and bureaucrats probably thought it more trouble than it was worth to tackle the problem. They had a few tries and there were takeover attempts, but it survived. It’s a real survivor of the micronations community.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a rule, most micronations trace their de facto recognition back to 1933 when the Montevideo Convention on the Rights and Duties of States was signed by international leaders, including then US President Franklin D Roosevelt. In it, the legislation sets out four main criteria for statehood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08j9t1y"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The Montevideo Convention is mostly commonly used to define a micronation, which calls for a population, territory, government and relations with other states,” Dunford explained. “It’s the last one that makes micronations most agitational because they often try to provoke other states into recognising them. Sealand eschews it by saying it’s a sovereign state with its own ruler.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The British should have destroyed it when they had the chance, but they never got round to it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery nation has a convoluted origin story and Sealand’s is more Kafkaesque than most. It begins in 1965 when Prince Michael’s father, Paddy Roy Bates, a former British Army major turned fisherman, began Radio Essex. This pirate radio station was located offshore on Knock John, another disused naval fort near HM Fort Roughs. Such was the popularity of the illegal offshore stations at the time, the UK government then rolled out the Marine Broadcasting Offences Act of 1967. It had one purpose: to shut them all down.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESeeing an opportunity, Bates moved his operation onto HM Fort Roughs — further out to sea and, and more importantly, further into contested international waters. Like Knock John, it was tenantless and in a state of disrepair – and, whether legal or not, Bates assumed control of the outpost on Christmas Eve 1966. Nine months later, on 2 September 1967, he declared it the Principality of Sealand – a romantic gesture on his wife Joan’s birthday. Shortly after, the entire family moved in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt its peak, in the early 1970s, Sealand had 50 people living on the platform, including extended family and friends and maintenance personnel. At the same time, it became an unlikely symbol of anti-authority protests in the UK; but behind the scenes, the bohemian operation was run on a far more basic level.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08j9qvq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Nothing worked,” Prince Michael told me. “We started with candles then upgraded to hurricane lamps and pump-up generators. The good thing was it is as dry as a boat; if you didn’t know you were out at sea you could never tell. I spent years and years out there – but, you know, it was home.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEver since, the rogue state has embraced nationhood. It introduced its own coat of arms and constitution. There’s a flag, football team and anthem, while the currency bears the portrait of “Princess Joan” and around 500 passports have been issued. The motto of the micronation, over which Prince Michael and his three children (James, Liam and Charlotte) and second wife (Mei Shi, a former major in the Chinese People’s Liberation Army) continue the Sealand dynasty, reflects a love of unshackled independence. “E Mare, Libertas” it reads. Or, “From the sea, freedom”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“My father never set out to start his own country,” explained Prince Michael, who is also owner of a cockle fishing business that exports seafood to Spain. “He was principally offended by the UK government wanting to close his pirate radio station. And ever since, we’ve fought the British government all the way – and won. Sealand still maintains its independence.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy any measure, the most controversial episode in Sealand’s history took place in 1978. Buoyed by thoughts of an international takeover, a group of German and Dutch mercenaries stormed Sealand one August night, only to be captured at gunpoint by the Bates family and held hostage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08j9qvp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“It led to the German ambassador and an official delegation coming from the embassy in London by helicopter to hold negotiations for his release,” Prince Michael said nonchalantly, playing down the drama of the incident. “So, by negotiating, they in fact gave us de facto recognition.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In the United States, the family would have been seen as dissidents","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhat’s not up for debate is that independence doesn’t come cheap. To fund Sealand’s operational costs – including two full-time security personnel who live on the micronation year-round – Sealand’s online store sells T-shirts, stamps and royal titles. A Lord, Lady, Baron or Baroness peerage costs £29.99.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe usual customs and immigration norms don’t apply either, of course. It’s only possible to visit with an official invitation from the prince, who visits two to three times a year, and beyond the shoestring staff, no-one currently lives here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Sealand has always teetered on being precarious, but the current prince runs the place on more of an even keel these days,” said Dunford. “That’s what I love about micronations. The way they parody the pomp of real nationalism is fabulous.” As a case in point, Sealand receives in excess of 100 emails a day, with requests from wannabe citizens from Delhi to Tokyo keen to pledge allegiance to the flag.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08j9qvh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Our story still fires people up,” Prince Michael concluded. “We don’t live in a society where people like being told what to do, and everybody loves the idea of liberty and freedom from government. The world needs inspiring territories like us – and there aren’t many places like this that exist.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn Bates’ life, one thing has remained reassuringly constant: Sealand still stands tall, watching silently over the North Sea. For the rest of us, it is a curious place so near to the UK and yet so far – an elsewhere of this world so extraordinary and different that it almost feels impossible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast-20"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-06T00:21:04.907Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Sealand: A peculiar ‘nation’ off England’s coast","headlineShort":"A tiny ‘nation’ of British eccentricity","image":["p08j9t35"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"62b420921f4b7b5d34253c8b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p08j9t35"],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Located 12km east of Suffolk in the North Sea, the Principality of Sealand is a micronation that claims to be the world’s smallest country.","summaryShort":"It’s been described as a “Cuba off the east coast of England”","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Fadventure"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:51:47.618919Z","entity":"article","guid":"3bd1ac90-72c6-4bb8-aa7d-037d9470b414","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:12:05.694865Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-sealand-a-peculiar-nation-off-englands-coast","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england","cacheLastUpdated":1657421413143},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland","_id":"62b420361f4b7b2e6c399cf1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flarry-bleiberg"],"bodyIntro":"Residents of Campione d’Italia are used to their quirky status, which stretches back more than a millennium. However, the future of this Italian corner of Switzerland is in doubt.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile travelling is on hold due to the coronavirus outbreak, BBC Travel will continue to inform and inspire our readers who want to learn about the world as much as they want to travel there, offering stories that celebrate the people, places and cultures that make this world so wonderfully diverse and amazing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFortravel information and stories specifically related to coronavirus, please read \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200319-covid-19-bbc-travels-coverage-during-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe latest updates from our colleagues at BBC News\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Our coverage during coronavirus","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStrolling the promenade of Lake Lugano, palm trees frame a view of snow-covered mountains, offering a hint of the Mediterranean in the middle of the Alps. The area’s beauty so entranced Victorian-era travellers that they named a section of the waterfront “Paradiso”, the Italian word for paradise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut in the tiny town of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.comune.campione-d-italia.co.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECampione d’Italia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E things aren’t as heavenly as they appear.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe town, an outpost of Italy entirely surrounded by Switzerland, has been caught in a diplomatic realignment since the first of the year. Unemployment is soaring and basic government services have been disrupted, all of which have only been exacerbated by the coronavirus pandemic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s like you love a woman who is dying. It is the same,” said lifelong resident Antonio Mariniello, perhaps proving the point that the village’s soul brims with Italian passion, not traditional Swiss reserve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08ckt5d"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe town is a geographic rarity known as an enclave – a territory completely surrounded by another territory. It’s also an exclave, a closely related term describing a portion of a territory separated from its main part by another territory. While it’s less than a mile hike to the Italian border through the wooded hillside above town, it’s a 40-minute drive to Como, the Italian region’s governmental centre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EResidents are accustomed to their quirky status, which stretches back more than a millennium. Under a long-established agreement between the two countries, they worked in the Swiss customs territory, paid bills with Swiss francs and were served by Italian police that drove Swiss-licenced cars. Municipal services, from rubbish collection to education, were supplied by Switzerland. The town of just more than a square mile attracted tourists from the Swiss city of Lugano on the opposite side of the lake, who were drawn by its most notable landmark, Europe’s oldest and biggest casino, Casino d’Campione.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut two years ago, the gaming house declared bankruptcy, throwing nearly 500 employees out of work in a town of just 2,000 residents. Empty storefronts now line its main street, and the cash-strapped town has closed its kindergarten and cut city services. Pensioners saw their monthly stipend slashed, forcing some to turn to food banks for groceries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen on the first day of 2020, Campione was forced to re-join the Italian economy and thus the EU, a move initiated four years ago by government leaders in Rome. The move has been called a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ticinonews.ch\u002Fticino\u002F493168\u002Fcampione-d-italia-una-brexit-al-contrario\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E“\u003Cem\u003EBrexit al contrario\u003C\u002Fem\u003E”\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (reverse Brexit) by the head of the local citizen’s committee opposing the change.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFinally, came the coronavirus, which has further complicated daily life. The Lugano municipal bus, which used to circle through the town several times a day to serve commuters, shoppers and tourists, can no longer enter Italy due to the country’s strict quarantine travel restrictions. So now residents must walk to the border to catch a ride.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190922-germanys-tiny-geographic-oddity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGermany’s tiny geographic oddity\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171210-europes-strange-border-anomaly\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEurope’s strange border anomaly\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181014-uupis-a-tiny-republic-of-free-spirits\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny nation you’ve never heard of\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite all these disruptions, one factor minimises the sting. The village has a prime lakefront location in the middle of a region world-famous for its beauty and glamour. Bernard Fournier, a chef who owns \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdacandida.ch\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDa Candida\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Campione’s Michelin-starred restaurant, remembers his first visit felt like he was in the French Riviera. “It reminded me of Saint-Tropez.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, residents say there’s a different feeling to Campione.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s the best of both worlds,” said Frances Coates, who was raised near Manchester, England, but moved here with her Italian husband 20 years ago. Now widowed, the former teacher works as a sanitation worker. She says she loves her adopted hometown, which balances Swiss order with Italian verve. “People are a bit gossipy and complaining, but with a sense of humour. Above all, there’s a certain \u003Cem\u003Ecuore\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the Italian heart.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08cksy1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut joining the European Union has been tough on Campione, leading to a multitude of changes, many unanticipated. With the agreement not finalised until 20 December, the town wasn’t ready for the changes that came on 1 January.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EResidents found they had to drive 20 miles to Como to pick up packages too large to be left by the village’s sole postman. Since no one in town has an Italian licence to sell tobacco, smokers have had to cross into Switzerland to buy a pack of cigarettes. Car owners will soon have to trade in their Swiss number plates for EU tags, and now there are occasional customs and immigration checks at the border, which had been largely unguarded for decades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECampione’s unusual status dates to the Middle Ages. Originally settled by the ancient Romans, the property was eventually controlled by a lord who left his holdings to the archbishop of Milan in the year 777. Over the centuries, it became known for its skilled masons and artists. When the surrounding area was transferred to Switzerland in the late 18th Century, tiny Campione remained a Papal state and eventually was absorbed by Italy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIts fortunes changed during World War One, when Italy granted a licence to open Casino d’Campione, hoping it could collect intelligence from foreign diplomats lured to its baccarat tables. It closed after a few years, but in the 1930s, Italian dictator Benito Mussolini reopened the municipal gaming house. Proceeds would support the city, which he renamed Campione d’Italia (Campione of Italy) to make its ownership clear.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08cksxp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBecause it was surrounded by neutral Switzerland, the town’s location led the US Office of Strategic Services, the precursor to the CIA, to open an office here to monitor activities in Fascist Italy. The city saw its share of intrigue, including the capture of Cesare Rossi, one of Mussolini’s rivals. He had fled to Switzerland but was lured to Campione by a mistress who was secretly working for Mussolini. As soon as his car crossed onto Italian soil, he was arrested.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor decades after the war, the town prospered from the casino’s jobs and steady flow of cash. It served as an under-the-radar tax haven and hideaway for high-rollers and occasional fugitives like Welshman \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-wales-34465454\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHoward Marks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who was one of the world’s biggest cannabis dealers. When forced to flee, he hid one of his passports in a public garden, where it remined buried until it was found years later by a German tourist who had seen a television documentary about Marks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUnlike comparatively staid Lugano, Campione pulsed with nightlife, with the casino staying open until 06:00 on weekends.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You could see celebrities. VIPs from all over the world came here like in Monaco and Monte Carlo. We had constant festivals. I was never bored,” said Valentina Valmaggia, whose parents owned a bar in the village.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite the activity, Campione kept a friendly, small-town atmosphere. “Everybody knows everyone here,” said the mother of three. She went to college in Geneva but chose to return to raise her family. “It’s a quiet place. It’s a safe place, and I still imagine my children’s [economic] future in Switzerland.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08ckt8p"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2007, the city replaced the casino building with a new towering 10-floor, yellow-block landmark designed by renowned Swiss architect Mario Botta. But the timing was terrible. The $160 million property’s debut coincided with the rise of online gambling, a drop in the value of the euro and the 2008 financial crisis. It never prospered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the casino suddenly closed in July 2018, Fournier, the Michelin-starred chef, wasn’t surprised. He said the city had grown too dependent on what had once been easy money and had been reluctant to diversify. “If you eat too much caviar, you will get sick,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe night the casino shut down, he opened two bottles of Dom Perignon Champagne, not to celebrate, he said, but to toast the town’s new beginning. And while many residents still hope the gaming house will re-open, Fournier believes it’s time to move on. “People have to change their mentality. It is finished, the casino.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe sees the town’s future as a tranquil getaway from busier Lugano, a metropolitan area with more than 150,000 residents. The town, he notes, graced with gorgeous lake views and charming winding streets, could promote itself as a wellness retreat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p08cktbk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile some disagree, many citizens were united against returning to the Italian economy. Last year, more than three-quarters of residents signed a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpetiport.secure.europarl.europa.eu\u002Fpetitions\u002Fen\u002Fpetition\u002Fcontent\u002F0293%252F2019\u002Fhtml\u002FPetition-No-0293%252F2019-by-Michele-Canesi-%2528Italian%2529%252C-on-behalf-of-the-Campione-d%25E2%2580%2599Italia-Citizens%25E2%2580%2599-Committee%252C-bearing-1-605-signatures%252C-against-the-inclusion-of-the-municipality-of-Campione-d%25E2%2580%2599Italia-in-the-EU-customs-territory-and-in-support-of-its-continued-status-as-Swiss-territory\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eformal petition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the European Parliament to remain in the Swiss customs territory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut their plea was ignored. And now, even months after the switch, Mariniello, the resident who compared Campione to a dying woman, says his neighbours still have many questions about the change. But answers have been slow in coming.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Rome,” he said, “is far away from here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Don’t Belong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that delves into the playful side of geography, taking you through the history and identity of geo-political anomalies and places along the way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland-11"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fplaces-that-dont-belong","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-05-18T23:39:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Campione d’Italia: An Italian town surrounded by Switzerland","headlineShort":"A piece of Italy lost in Switzerland","image":["p08cktbk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. 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fill="#FA6400" d="M422,424H258c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S256,422.552,256,422V90c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S257.448,88,258,88h164c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S424,89.448,424,90v332c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S422.552,424,422,424z"></path></g></svg><span>Sounds</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-bitesize"><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20220710025516/https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize"><svg class="product-icon" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewbox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true"><g><path fill="#6100A8" d="M134,400H78c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S76,398.552,76,398V162c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414 S77.448,160,78,160h56c0.552,0,1.052,0.224,1.414,0.586S136,161.448,136,162v236c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414 S134.552,400,134,400z"></path><path fill="#7222C6" 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