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</li> </ul> </div> </header> <div id="content"> <div class="region region-header"> <div class="ad-leaderboard"> <div id="leaderboard" style="margin: 0 auto 40px;"></div> </div> </div> <div id="cookie-warning"> <a href="#" class="close icon-close" title="OK"></a> <p>We use cookies to enhance your visit to our site and to bring you advertisements that might interest you. Read our <a href="/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/service/privacy-policy-6925316.html">Privacy</a> and <a href="/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/service/cookie-policy-7785319.html">Cookie</a> Policies to find out more.</p> </div> <div class="tabs"></div> <div class="region region-content"> <article class="full-article" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Review"> <meta itemprop="mainEntityOfPage" content="http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/grace-dent-reviews-yosma-a-halfdecent-nightclub-currently-being-spoiled-by-ovens-a3391866.html"> <div itemprop="publisher" itemscope itemtype="https://schema.org/Organization"> <meta itemprop="name" content="Evening Standard"> <link itemprop="sameAs" href="http://www.standard.co.uk"> <link itemprop="logo" href="https://static.standard.co.uk/static-assets/brand-logo.png"> </div> <div itemprop="itemReviewed" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Restaurant"> <span itemprop="name" class="hidden">Yosma</span> <img itemprop="image" class="hidden" src="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347im_/https://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/thumbnails/image/2016/11/10/07/yosma.jpg"/> <span itemprop="datePublished" class="hidden"><span class="date-display-single">Thursday, November 10, 2016 - 07:45</span></span> <div itemprop="address" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/PostalAddress"> <span itemprop="streetAddress" class="hidden">50 Baker St, London </span> <span itemprop="addressLocality" class="hidden">Marylebone</span> <span itemprop="addressRegion" class="hidden">Greater London</span> <span itemprop="addressCountry" class="hidden">GB</span> <span itemprop="postalCode" class="hidden">W1U 7BT</span> </div> <span itemprop="servesCuisine" class="hidden">Turkish</span> </div> <header> <ol vocab="http://schema.org/" typeof="BreadcrumbList" class="breadcrumbs clearfix"><li property="itemListElement" typeof="ListItem"><a property="item" typeof="WebPage" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout"><span property="name">Going Out</span></a></li><li property="itemListElement" typeof="ListItem"><a property="item" typeof="WebPage" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants"><span property="name">Restaurants</span></a></li></ol> <h1 itemprop="headline" class="">Grace Dent reviews Yosma: A half-decent nightclub currently being spoiled by ovens</h1> <div class="intro" itemprop="description"> <p>Grace Dent is left disheartened by Yosma</p> </div> <ul class="caption meta inline-pipes-list"> <li class="author" itemprop="author" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/Person"> <span itemprop="name"><a href="/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/author/grace-dent" title="Grace Dent" itemprop="sameAs">Grace Dent</a></span> </li> <li title="10 November 2016 09:32 London"><time data-microtimes="{"published":"1478770321000","display":0,"changed":"1478770321000"}" datetime="09:32, 10 November 2016" unixtime="1478770321000">Thursday 10 November 2016 09:32 BST</time></li> <li class="comments"> <a href="#commentsDiv" id="comment-count" class="icon-comment"></a> </li> </ul> <div id="gigya-share-btns-1"></div> </header> <figure itemprop="associatedMedia image" itemscope itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" class="featured-media medium-width"> <meta itemprop="representativeOfPage" content="true"> <meta itemprop="url" content="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/https://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/thumbnails/image/2016/11/10/07/yosma.jpg"> <meta itemprop="width" content="558"> <meta itemprop="height" content="384"> <picture title="yosma.jpg">  <source srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/s3/files/styles/article_medium/public/thumbnails/image/2016/11/10/07/yosma.jpg 1x" media="(min-width: 620px) and (max-width: 929px)"/> <source srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/s3/files/styles/article_large/public/thumbnails/image/2016/11/10/07/yosma.jpg 1x" media="(min-width: 930px) and (max-width: 1239px)"/> <source srcset="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347im_/https://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_large/public/thumbnails/image/2016/11/10/07/yosma.jpg 1x" media="(min-width: 1240px)"/>  <img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347im_/http://www.standard.co.uk/s3/files/styles/article_small/public/thumbnails/image/2016/11/10/07/yosma.jpg" alt="yosma.jpg" title="yosma.jpg"/> </picture> </figure> <div class="article-wrapper clearfix"> <div class="main-content-column"> <div class="text-wrapper" itemprop="reviewBody"> <p><strong>Ambience: 2/5</strong></p> <p><strong>Food: 2/5</strong></p> <p>If you hadn’t noticed, over the past few years, fine Turkish, Middle Eastern and Berber <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants">food</a> has sprouted foodie-wings.</p> <p>It got fancier and found its way into ‘worth the queue’ lists. I know, until recently, most of us have been idiots. Probably bloody offensive ones. There has always been more to 2,000 years of ornate, geo-spanning, diaspora-driven culinary tradition than mumbling ‘lamb shish’ over a glass counter. And some of this year’s much cogitated-over chefs — Selin Kiazim, Eyal Jagermann and Marianna Leivaditaki — have rubbed our faces, almost literally, in this extended genre’s largesse and plate-lickability. Or at least, we might want to lick their plates but it’s a perpetual shoulder charge to get a table. This will not be a dilemma at newish raki-cocktail and coal-fire Turkish spot Yosma on Baker Street. Yosma is cavernous — large enough to home a quite punchy game of 7-a-side football. If one is currently banging one’s head against a desk trying to find a table for 12, or for the office party, then here’s an option. And that’s where all the pro-points on my Yosma list dry up, for it’s one of those restaurants so glaringly different up close to the one it purports to be on its delightful website that I felt fraudulently wooed into spending a Saturday evening there. </p> <div class="inline-block inline-block-quote ines_blockquote inline-block-right"> <blockquote>Yosma is cavernous — large enough to home a quite punchy game of 7-a-side football</blockquote> <div class="caption"></div> </div> <p>Yosma’s website, in its gorgeous salmon-pink hue, promises mangal delights and a <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/bars">raki-cocktail menu</a> by Matt Whiley. It tells of an evening showcasing the depth and character of Anatolian food. The menu itself boasts 11 types of ambitious cold mezze, surpassing baba ganoush and hummus and shooting off into the worlds of marinated sea bass and pit-roasted golden beetroot. Numerous hot mezze including whole red mullet and manti (Turkish neck of lamb and dumplings) sit with clay-oven börek and tepsi kebab. There are freekeh salads, barbecued day-boat fish and ali nazik lamb rump, and all this prepared in an open kitchen throbbing with heat, smoke and Turkish spirit. So off I trot and two hours later, I am eating fridge-cold baba ganoush with a spoon in what feels like a Be At One beside a bar of dirty glasses. </p> <div class="inline-block inline-block-related-single inline-block-left" data-nid="/goingout/restaurants/grace-dent-reviews-the-barbary-the-menu-lends-itself-to-ordering-far-too-much-a3311356.html"><a href="/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/grace-dent-reviews-the-barbary-the-menu-lends-itself-to-ordering-far-too-much-a3311356.html"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347im_/https://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/readmore_card/public/thumbnails/image/2016/08/03/19/barbary.jpg"/><div class="content"> <div class="context-capsule">Read more</div> <h2>Grace Dent reviews The Barbary: Seductive kitchen wizardry</h2> </div> </a></div> <p>Confoundingly, there is one — singular — type of bread for dipping and mopping up runny things on the menu. It’s a fermented freekeh bread, hiding on the menu under ‘nibbles’. This transpires to resemble and taste exactly like an Asda tiger bloomer, microwaved then festooned with dried mixed herbs. No delicious fresh Anatolian flatbread, perfect for scooping and devouring. A bland haydari — strained yoghurt with walnuts and dill — hardly begs to be hoovered up anyhow. </p> <p>At Yosma, I sense a capable kitchen crew being held back from serving bold, lascivious, love-hewn food by budgets and holding out for the sort of diner who’ll be too smashed to notice. Or in my case, haven’t been spoiled by <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/grace-dent-reviews-the-barbary-the-menu-lends-itself-to-ordering-far-too-much-a3311356.html">The Barbary.</a></p> <div class="dnd-widget-wrapper context-sdl_editor_representation type-image atom-align-undefined"><div class="dnd-atom-rendered"><div class="image"><img src="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347im_/https://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_medium/public/thumbnails/image/2016/11/10/09/yosma-review.jpg" width="564" height="376" alt="yosma-review.jpg" title="yosma-review.jpg"/></div></div><div class="dnd-caption-wrapper">Disappointing: food at Yosma is far below par</div></div> <p>The plain truth is that there is much finer food being served in the no-frills Anatolian kebab houses of Leyton. The pan-fried hellim lacked any texture and sat in a mess of lemony fried mushroom. The manti were pale, soggy and swimming in yoghurt. The highlight of dinner was a sucuk — a spicy beef sausage — with crisp, succulent potato and pickled shallot. All executed beautifully, particularly the spud section. We ordered more patatas as a side, but these could have feasibly once belonged to Aunt Bessie. Our two glasses of yeni sari raki appeared, which felt like something of a novelty to serve for the staff. If Matt Whiley wrote a cocktail list, I saw no evidence of its fruition. </p> <p>Right now, Yosma is a half-decent nightclub currently being spoiled by ovens. 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href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-clipstone-a-beauty-of-a-bistro-in-fitzrovia-a3322211.html"><u>Read the review </u></a><br/></p>  <p class="credits">Daniel Hambury/Stella Pictures</p> </li> <li data-gallery-legend="15"> <h2> <span class="counter">15/25</span>  Mora </h2>  <p>'Leytonstone gets a Sardinian sensation' <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/mora-restaurant-review-leytonstone-gets-a-sardinian-sensation-a3316326.html"><u>Read the review </u></a><br/></p>  <p class="credits">Vicki Couchman</p> </li> <li data-gallery-legend="16"> <h2> <span class="counter">16/25</span>  Grace Dent reviews The Barbary </h2>  <p>'Seductive kitchen wizardry' <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/grace-dent-reviews-the-barbary-the-menu-lends-itself-to-ordering-far-too-much-a3311356.html"><u>Read the review </u></a><br/></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="17"> <h2> <span class="counter">17/25</span>  Mustard </h2>  <p>'Hot stuff in Brook Green' <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/mustard-restaurant-review-hot-stuff-in-brook-green-a3310636.html"><u>Read the review </u></a><br/></p>  <p class="credits">Daniel Hambury/Stella Pictures</p> </li> <li data-gallery-legend="18"> <h2> <span class="counter">18/25</span>  Grace Dent reviews Ostuni </h2>  <p>'In hindsight, we deeply adored very little' <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/grace-dent-reviews-ostuni-a3305916.html"><u>Read the review </u></a><br/></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="19"> <h2> <span class="counter">19/25</span>  Grace Dent reviews Petit Pois </h2>  <p>'No room for quibbling in the face of heavy carbs and oozing Gruyère' <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/grace-dent-reviews-petit-pois-no-room-for-quibbling-in-the-face-of-heavy-carbs-and-oozing-gruy-re-a3300716.html"><u>Read the review </u></a><br/></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="20"> <h2> <span class="counter">20/25</span>  Fay Maschler reviews Sardine </h2>  <p>'French flavours will lure us in shoals' <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-sardine-french-flavours-will-lure-us-in-shoals-a3299981.html"><u>Read the review </u></a><br/></p>  <p class="credits">Daniel Hambury</p> </li> <li data-gallery-legend="21"> <h2> <span class="counter">21/25</span>  Grace Dent reviews The Woodford </h2>  <p>'Fancy, finickity, definitely likeable' <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/grace-dent-reviews-the-woodford-fancy-finickity-and-at-times-oldschool-fusty-a3295281.html"><u>Read the review </u></a><br/></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="22"> <h2> <span class="counter">22/25</span>  Grace Dent reviews Marksman </h2>  <p>'The menu is simple – but dramatically pleasing' <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/grace-dent-reviews-marksman-the-menu-is-simple-but-dramatically-pleasing-a3288676.html"><u>Read the review </u></a><br/></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="23"> <h2> <span class="counter">23/25</span>  Yard Sale </h2>  <p>'The ambience is full hipster' <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/yard-sale-restaurant-review-the-ambience-is-full-hipster-a3289521.html"><u>Read the review </u></a><br/></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="24"> <h2> <span class="counter">24/25</span>  Zia Lucia </h2>  <p>'Holloway gets a slice of the action' <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/zia-lucia-restaurant-review-holloway-gets-a-slice-of-the-action-a3289081.html"><u>Read the review </u></a><br/></p>  </li> <li data-gallery-legend="25"> <h2> <span class="counter">25/25</span>  Grace Dent reviews The Chipping Forecast </h2>  <p>'All the makings of a great chippy' <br/><br/><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20161115021347/http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/grace-dent-reviews-the-chipping-forecast-all-the-makings-of-a-great-chippy-a3283291.html"><u>Read the review </u></a><br/></p>  </li> </ul><div class="ad-mpu mpu5-container"> </div> </div> </div> </div></div></div> <h2>Yosma</h2> <p>1 Firik ekmeği £2</p> <p>1 Baba ganoush £5 </p> <p>1 Haydari £4</p> <p>1 Hellim £7 </p> <p>1 Hummus £4 </p> <p>1 Manti £7 </p> <p>1 Sucuk £6 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