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{ content: '\e01f'; } .gelicon--degraded::before { content: '\e020'; } .gelicon--calendar-mini::before { content: '\e021'; } .gelicon--calendar::before { content: '\e022'; } .gelicon--mail::before { content: '\e023'; } .gelicon--location::before { content: '\e024'; } .gelicon--load::before { content: '\e025'; } .gelicon--settings::before { content: '\e026'; } .gelicon--embed::before { content: '\e027'; } .gelicon--external::before { content: '\e028'; } .gelicon--traffic::before { content: '\e029'; } .gelicon--refresh::before { content: '\e02a'; } .gelicon--link::before { content: '\e02b'; } .gelicon--point::before { content: '\e02c'; } .gelicon--upload::before { content: '\e02d'; } .gelicon--download::before { content: '\e02e'; } .gelicon--finder::before { content: '\e02f'; } .gelicon--stations::before { content: '\e030'; } .gelicon--untitled::before { content: '\42'; } .gelicon--untitled-2::before { content: '\43'; } .gelicon--quote::before { content: '\22'; } .gelicon--playlister-add::before { content: '\e031'; } .gelicon--calendar-30::before { content: '\e032'; } .gelicon--download-desktop::before { content: '\e033'; } .gelicon--map::before { content: '\e034'; } .gelicon--previous-alternative::before { content: '\e035'; } .gelicon--next-alternative::before { content: '\e036'; } .gelicon--arrow-down::before { content: '\e038'; } /* Media icons */ .gelicon--menu, .gelicon--live, .gelicon--subtitles, .gelicon--ws, .gelicon--sd, .gelicon--hd, .gelicon--bsl, .gelicon--ad, .gelicon--3d, .gelicon--tv, .gelicon--radio, .gelicon--mobile, .gelicon--desktop, .gelicon--game, .gelicon--tablet, .gelicon--quiz, .gelicon--guidance, .gelicon--record, .gelicon--listen, .gelicon--play, .gelicon--pause, .gelicon--rewind, .gelicon--forward, .gelicon--restart, .gelicon--image, .gelicon--document, .gelicon--slideshow, .gelicon--activity, .gelicon--360, .gelicon--podcast, .gelicon--newsletter, .gelicon--rss, .gelicon--fullscreen, .gelicon--expand, .gelicon--popout, .gelicon--mute, .gelicon--music-on, .gelicon--music-off, .gelicon--windows, .gelicon--apple, .gelicon--interactive { font-family: 'gelicons-media' !important; } /* Begin Icons */ .gelicon--menu::before { content: '\e900'; } .gelicon--live::before { content: '\e100'; } .gelicon--subtitles::before { content: '\e101'; } .gelicon--ws::before { content: '\e102'; } .gelicon--sd::before { content: '\e103'; } .gelicon--hd::before { content: '\e104'; } .gelicon--bsl::before { content: '\e105'; } .gelicon--ad::before { content: '\e106'; } .gelicon--3d::before { content: '\e107'; } .gelicon--tv::before { content: '\e108'; } .gelicon--radio::before { content: '\e109'; } .gelicon--mobile::before { content: '\e10a'; } .gelicon--desktop::before { content: '\e10b'; } .gelicon--game::before { content: '\e10c'; } .gelicon--tablet::before { content: '\e10d'; } .gelicon--quiz::before { content: '\e10e'; } .gelicon--guidance::before { content: '\e10f'; } .gelicon--record::before { content: '\e110'; } .gelicon--listen::before { content: '\e111'; } .gelicon--play::before { content: '\e112'; } .gelicon--pause::before { content: '\e113'; } .gelicon--rewind::before { content: '\e114'; } .gelicon--forward::before { content: '\e115'; } .gelicon--restart::before { content: '\e116'; } .gelicon--image::before { content: '\e117'; } .gelicon--document::before { content: '\e118'; } .gelicon--slideshow::before { content: '\e119'; } .gelicon--activity::before { content: '\e11a'; } .gelicon--360::before { content: '\e11b'; } .gelicon--podcast::before { content: '\e11c'; } .gelicon--newsletter::before { content: '\e11d'; } .gelicon--rss::before { content: '\e11e'; } .gelicon--fullscreen::before { content: '\e11f'; } .gelicon--expand::before { content: '\e120'; } .gelicon--popout::before { content: '\e121'; } .gelicon--mute::before { content: '\e122'; } .gelicon--music-on::before { content: '\e123'; } .gelicon--music-off::before { content: '\e124'; } .gelicon--windows::before { content: '\e125'; } .gelicon--apple::before { content: '\e126'; } .gelicon--interactive::before { content: '\e900'; } /* Social Icons */ .gelicon--share, .gelicon--recommend, .gelicon--comments, .gelicon--blog, .gelicon--smiley, .gelicon--love, .gelicon--twitter, .gelicon--facebook, .gelicon--google-plus, .gelicon--google, .gelicon--spotify, .gelicon--pinterest, .gelicon--tumblr, .gelicon--stumbleupon, .gelicon--linkedin, .gelicon--reddit, .gelicon--digg, .gelicon--instagram, .gelicon--whatsapp { font-family: 'gelicons-social' !important; } /* GEL */ .gelicon--share::before { content: '\e200'; } .gelicon--recommend::before { content: '\e201'; } .gelicon--comments::before { content: '\e202'; } .gelicon--blog::before { content: '\e203'; } .gelicon--smiley::before { content: '\e204'; } .gelicon--love::before { content: '\e205'; } /* THIRD PARTY */ .gelicon--twitter::before { content: '\e300'; } .gelicon--facebook::before { content: '\e301'; } .gelicon--google-plus::before { content: '\e700'; } .gelicon--google::before { content: '\e701'; } .gelicon--spotify::before { content: '\e304'; } .gelicon--pinterest::before { content: '\e305'; } .gelicon--tumblr::before { content: '\e306'; } .gelicon--stumbleupon::before { content: '\e307'; } .gelicon--linkedin::before { content: '\e308'; } .gelicon--reddit::before { content: '\e309'; } .gelicon--digg::before { content: '\e30a'; } .gelicon--instagram::before { content: '\e30b'; } .gelicon--whatsapp::before { content: '\e600'; } .mapboxgl-map { font: 12px/20px Helvetica Neue,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; overflow: hidden; position: relative; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); } .mapboxgl-canvas { position: absolute; left: 0; top: 0; } .mapboxgl-map:-webkit-full-screen { width: 100%; height: 100%; } .mapboxgl-canary { background-color: salmon; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive, .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass { cursor: -webkit-grab; cursor: grab; -moz-user-select: none; -webkit-user-select: none; -ms-user-select: none; user-select: none; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive.mapboxgl-track-pointer { cursor: pointer; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-interactive:active, .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass:active { cursor: -webkit-grabbing; cursor: grabbing; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate, .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate .mapboxgl-canvas { -ms-touch-action: pan-x pan-y; touch-action: pan-x pan-y; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan, .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas { -ms-touch-action: pinch-zoom; touch-action: pinch-zoom; } .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan, .mapboxgl-canvas-container.mapboxgl-touch-zoom-rotate.mapboxgl-touch-drag-pan .mapboxgl-canvas { -ms-touch-action: none; touch-action: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left, .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right, .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left, .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right { position: absolute; pointer-events: none; z-index: 2; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left { top: 0; left: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right { top: 0; right: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left { bottom: 0; left: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right { right: 0; bottom: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl { clear: both; pointer-events: auto; -webkit-transform: translate(0); transform: translate(0); } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left .mapboxgl-ctrl { margin: 10px 0 0 10px; float: left; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right .mapboxgl-ctrl { margin: 10px 10px 0 0; float: right; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left .mapboxgl-ctrl { margin: 0 0 10px 10px; float: left; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right .mapboxgl-ctrl { margin: 0 10px 10px 0; float: right; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group { border-radius: 4px; background: #fff; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty) { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); box-shadow: 0 0 0 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl-group:not(:empty) { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 0 2px ButtonText; box-shadow: 0 0 0 2px ButtonText; } } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button { width: 29px; height: 29px; display: block; padding: 0; outline: none; border: 0; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; background-color: transparent; cursor: pointer; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button + button { border-top: 1px solid #ddd; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { display: block; width: 100%; height: 100%; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-position: 50%; } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-color: transparent; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button + button { border-top: 1px solid ButtonText; } } .mapboxgl-ctrl button::-moz-focus-inner { border: 0; padding: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 2px 2px #0096ff; box-shadow: 0 0 2px 2px #0096ff; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled { cursor: not-allowed; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { opacity: .25; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button:not(:disabled):hover { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.05); } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:focus-visible { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 2px 2px #0096ff; box-shadow: 0 0 2px 2px #0096ff; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:not(:focus-visible) { -webkit-box-shadow: none; box-shadow: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:first-child { border-radius: 4px 4px 0 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:last-child { border-radius: 0 0 4px 4px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-group button:focus:only-child { border-radius: inherit; } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-out .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 13c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h9c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-9z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-zoom-in .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M14.5 8.5c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5v3h-3c-.75 0-1.5.75-1.5 1.5S9.25 16 10 16h3v3c0 .75.75 1.5 1.5 1.5S16 19.75 16 19v-3h3c.75 0 1.5-.75 1.5-1.5S19.75 13 19 13h-3v-3c0-.75-.75-1.5-1.5-1.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23999'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-compass .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-waiting .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { -webkit-animation: mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite; animation: mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite; } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23999'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } .mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23666'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @-webkit-keyframes mapboxgl-spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(0deg); } to { -webkit-transform: rotate(1turn); } } @keyframes mapboxgl-spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(0deg); transform: rotate(0deg); } to { -webkit-transform: rotate(1turn); transform: rotate(1turn); } } a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo { width: 88px; height: 23px; margin: 0 0 -4px -4px; display: block; background-repeat: no-repeat; cursor: pointer; overflow: hidden; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 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height='100%25' fill='%23fff'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/mask%3E%3Cg opacity='.3' stroke='%23000' stroke-width='3'%3E%3Ccircle mask='url(%23c)' cx='11.5' cy='11.5' r='9.25'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b' mask='url(/web/20220113212149im_/https://www.bbc.com/%23c)'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3Cg opacity='.9' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23a'/%3E%3Cuse xlink:href='%23b'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo.mapboxgl-compact { width: 23px; } @media (-ms-high-contrast: active) { a.mapboxgl-ctrl-logo { background-color: transparent; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='88' height='23' viewBox='0 0 88 23' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' xmlns:xlink='http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 0-2.32-1.9-4.17-4.27-4.17zM60.63 5c.13 0 .23.1.23.23v3.76c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 1.88 0 3.45 1.4 3.84 3.28.13.59.13 1.2 0 1.8-.39 1.88-1.96 3.29-3.84 3.29-1.03 0-2.02-.43-2.73-1.18v.77c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V5.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-34 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fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cdefs%3E%3Cpath id='a' d='M11.5 2.25c5.105 0 9.25 4.145 9.25 9.25s-4.145 9.25-9.25 9.25-9.25-4.145-9.25-9.25 4.145-9.25 9.25-9.25zM6.997 15.983c-.051-.338-.828-5.802 2.233-8.873a4.395 4.395 0 013.13-1.28c1.27 0 2.49.51 3.39 1.42.91.9 1.42 2.12 1.42 3.39 0 1.18-.449 2.301-1.28 3.13C12.72 16.93 7 16 7 16l-.003-.017zM15.3 10.5l-2 .8-.8 2-.8-2-2-.8 2-.8.8-2 .8 2 2 .8z'/%3E%3Cpath id='b' d='M50.63 8c.13 0 .23.1.23.23V9c.7-.76 1.7-1.18 2.73-1.18 2.17 0 3.95 1.85 3.95 4.17s-1.77 4.19-3.94 4.19c-1.04 0-2.03-.43-2.74-1.18v3.77c0 .13-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V8.23c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm-3.86.01c.01 0 .01 0 .01-.01.13 0 .22.1.22.22v7.55c0 .12-.1.23-.23.23h-1.4c-.13 0-.23-.1-.23-.23V15c-.7.76-1.69 1.19-2.73 1.19-2.17 0-3.94-1.87-3.94-4.19 0-2.32 1.77-4.19 3.94-4.19 1.03 0 2.02.43 2.73 1.18v-.75c0-.12.1-.23.23-.23h1.4zm26.375-.19a4.24 4.24 0 00-4.16 3.29c-.13.59-.13 1.19 0 1.77a4.233 4.233 0 004.17 3.3c2.35 0 4.26-1.87 4.26-4.19 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.mapboxgl-ctrl.mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib { padding: 0 5px; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.5); margin: 0; } @media screen { .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact { min-height: 20px; padding: 0; margin: 10px; position: relative; background-color: #fff; border-radius: 3px 12px 12px 3px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover { padding: 2px 24px 2px 4px; visibility: visible; margin-top: 6px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover, .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover { padding: 2px 4px 2px 24px; border-radius: 12px 3px 3px 12px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib-inner { display: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:hover .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib-inner { display: block; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { content: ""; cursor: pointer; position: absolute; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.5); width: 24px; height: 24px; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; border-radius: 12px; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-right > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { bottom: 0; right: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-right > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { top: 0; right: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-top-left > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { top: 0; left: 0; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-bottom-left > .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { bottom: 0; left: 0; } } @media screen and (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } @media screen and (-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white) { .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib.mapboxgl-compact:after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='24' height='24' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill-rule='evenodd'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 10a6 6 0 1012 0 6 6 0 10-12 0m5-3a1 1 0 102 0 1 1 0 10-2 0m0 3a1 1 0 112 0v3a1 1 0 11-2 0'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); } } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib a { color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.75); text-decoration: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib a:hover { color: inherit; text-decoration: underline; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-attrib .mapbox-improve-map { font-weight: 700; margin-left: 2px; } .mapboxgl-attrib-empty { display: none; } .mapboxgl-ctrl-scale { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.75); font-size: 10px; border: 2px solid #333; border-top: #333; padding: 0 5px; color: #333; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } .mapboxgl-popup { position: absolute; top: 0; left: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; will-change: transform; pointer-events: none; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top, .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left, .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right { -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom, .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left, .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right { -ms-flex-direction: column-reverse; flex-direction: column-reverse; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-left { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-right { -ms-flex-direction: row-reverse; flex-direction: row-reverse; } .mapboxgl-popup-tip { width: 0; height: 0; border: 10px solid transparent; z-index: 1; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; border-top: none; border-bottom-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: start; align-self: flex-start; border-top: none; border-left: none; border-bottom-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: end; align-self: flex-end; border-top: none; border-right: none; border-bottom-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; border-bottom: none; border-top-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: start; align-self: flex-start; border-bottom: none; border-left: none; border-top-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: end; align-self: flex-end; border-bottom: none; border-right: none; border-top-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-left .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; border-left: none; border-right-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-right .mapboxgl-popup-tip { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; border-right: none; border-left-color: #fff; } .mapboxgl-popup-close-button { position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; border: 0; border-radius: 0 3px 0 0; cursor: pointer; background-color: transparent; } .mapboxgl-popup-close-button:hover { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.05); } .mapboxgl-popup-content { position: relative; background: #fff; border-radius: 3px; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); box-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); padding: 10px 10px 15px; pointer-events: auto; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-left .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-top-left-radius: 0; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-top-right .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-top-right-radius: 0; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-left .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-bottom-left-radius: 0; } .mapboxgl-popup-anchor-bottom-right .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-bottom-right-radius: 0; } .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer { display: none; } .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer * { pointer-events: none; -webkit-user-select: none; -moz-user-select: none; -ms-user-select: none; user-select: none; } .mapboxgl-map:hover .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .mapboxgl-map:active .mapboxgl-popup-track-pointer { display: none; } .mapboxgl-marker { position: absolute; top: 0; left: 0; will-change: transform; } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot, .mapboxgl-user-location-dot:before { background-color: #1da1f2; width: 15px; height: 15px; border-radius: 50%; } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot:before { content: ""; position: absolute; -webkit-animation: mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite; animation: mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse 2s infinite; } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot:after { border-radius: 50%; border: 2px solid #fff; content: ""; height: 19px; left: -2px; position: absolute; top: -2px; width: 19px; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 3px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.35); box-shadow: 0 0 3px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.35); } @-webkit-keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse { 0% { -webkit-transform: scale(1); opacity: 1; } 70% { -webkit-transform: scale(3); opacity: 0; } to { -webkit-transform: scale(1); opacity: 0; } } @keyframes mapboxgl-user-location-dot-pulse { 0% { -webkit-transform: scale(1); transform: scale(1); opacity: 1; } 70% { -webkit-transform: scale(3); transform: scale(3); opacity: 0; } to { -webkit-transform: scale(1); transform: scale(1); opacity: 0; } } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot-stale { background-color: #aaa; } .mapboxgl-user-location-dot-stale:after { display: none; } .mapboxgl-user-location-accuracy-circle { background-color: rgba(29, 161, 242, 0.2); width: 1px; height: 1px; border-radius: 100%; } .mapboxgl-crosshair, .mapboxgl-crosshair .mapboxgl-interactive, .mapboxgl-crosshair .mapboxgl-interactive:active { cursor: crosshair; } .mapboxgl-boxzoom { position: absolute; top: 0; left: 0; width: 0; height: 0; background: #fff; border: 2px dotted #202020; opacity: .5; } @media print { .mapbox-improve-map { display: none; } } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .partner-module { border-bottom: 1px solid #472479; border-top: 0; } .partner-module__link, .partner-module__link:visited { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; color: #444; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; padding: 0; text-decoration: none; } .partner-module__link:hover { background-color: #f5f5f5; } .partner-module__heading { display: inline-block; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22px; margin: 16px 0; } .partner-module__partner-name { font-weight: bold; } .partner-module__partner-logo { display: block; height: 31px; margin: 12px 0; margin-left: 17px; width: 88px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .author-unit { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: -0.1px; line-height: 35px; } .author-unit--small-mobile { line-height: 30px; } .author-unit .author-unit__container { color: #4a4a4a; margin: 0 auto; } .author-unit .author-unit__container--desktop { margin: 0; } .author-unit__container { -ms-flex-align: baseline; align-items: baseline; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding: 10px 0; } .author-unit__text { font-style: italic; font-weight: 600; padding-right: 10px; text-decoration: none; } .author-unit__icon { color: #6a6a6a; padding-right: 14px; position: relative; text-decoration: none; top: 1px; } .author-unit__icon:hover { color: #00bbf2; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .uppercase-label { color: #8f8d8d; font-size: 12px; font-style: condensed; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 1px; line-height: 16px; margin: 0; padding: 0; text-transform: uppercase; -webkit-transition: color 0.4s; transition: color 0.4s; } .uppercase-label--small { font-size: 11px; font-weight: 400; line-height: 14px; margin: 0; } .uppercase-label--medium { font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; } .uppercase-label--reith-condensed { font-weight: 400; } .uppercase-label--white { color: #ebebeb; } .uppercase-label--light-grey { color: #999; } .uppercase-label--dark-grey { color: #444; } .uppercase-label--large { font-size: 16px; line-height: 18px; } .uppercase-label--true-white { color: #fff; text-shadow: 0 1px 1px #193e6d; } .uppercase-label--arial { font-family: Arial; } .label-with-line { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .label-with-line__label { margin: 0 16px 0 0; } .body-text-card-inline-video { margin: 24px 0; position: relative; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ @-webkit-keyframes spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(0deg); transform: rotate(0deg); } 100% { -webkit-transform: rotate(360deg); transform: rotate(360deg); } } @keyframes spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(0deg); transform: rotate(0deg); } 100% { -webkit-transform: rotate(360deg); transform: rotate(360deg); } } .spinner { fill: #444; } .spinner__image { -webkit-animation: spin 1s linear infinite; animation: spin 1s linear infinite; } .spinner--worklife { fill: #8beed9; } .spinner--future { fill: #ffc857; } .spinner--culture { fill: #472479; } .spinner--travel { fill: #002856; } .spinner--earth { fill: #002856; } .spinner--white { fill: #fff; } .spinner--audio { height: 32px; width: 32px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .inline-video { height: 100%; } .inline-video__container { position: relative; } .inline-video__border-line { padding: 0 10px; } .inline-video .play-button__inline-video { bottom: 0; left: 0; position: absolute; z-index: 1000; } .inline-video__smp { background-color: #000; padding-bottom: 56.25%; } .inline-video__smp--loaded { background-color: unset; padding-bottom: unset; } .inline-video__description { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(106, 106, 106, 0.43); color: #737373; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; line-height: 24px; margin: 0 10px 0 3%; padding: 20px 0 12px; } .inline-video__description--desktop { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(106, 106, 106, 0.43); margin: 0 18px; padding: 28px 0 18px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .inline-image__description { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(106, 106, 106, 0.43); font-style: italic; margin: 0 10px; padding: 20px 0 12px; } .inline-image__description--desktop { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(106, 106, 106, 0.43); margin: 0 18px; padding: 20px 0 18px; } .inline-image img { border-radius: 0; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .inline-quote { border-left: 3px solid #575757; color: #575757; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: -1.69px; line-height: 32px; margin: 0; padding-left: 22px; } .inline-quote--worklife { border-left: 3px solid #8beed9; } .inline-quote--future { border-left: 3px solid #ffc857; } .inline-quote--culture { border-left: 3px solid #472479; } .inline-quote--earth { border-left: 3px solid #002856; } .inline-quote h2 { font-weight: 300; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .inline-audio-player { background: none; } .inline-audio-player__smp-container { display: inline-block; width: 100%; } .inline-audio-player__smp-container > div { /* CreateSMPAudio */ display: inline-block; width: 100%; } .inline-audio-player__smp-container > div > div { height: 50px; position: relative; /* stylelint-disable-next-line selector-max-compound-selectors */ } .inline-audio-player__smp-container > div > div > div { padding: 0 !important; } .inline-audio-player__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .inline-audio-player__cta-holder { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #ededed; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding-right: 8px; } .inline-audio-player__cta-container { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .inline-audio-player__cta-container.initialising * { cursor: initial; pointer-events: none; -webkit-user-select: none; -moz-user-select: none; -ms-user-select: none; user-select: none; } .inline-audio-player__cta-container.initialising button { opacity: 0.6; } .inline-audio-player__text { background: none; border: 0; color: #222; cursor: pointer; font-size: 18px; height: 25px; letter-spacing: -0.1px; line-height: 25px; margin-left: 12px; outline: inherit; padding: 0; } .inline-audio-player__text--offline { cursor: default; pointer-events: none; } .inline-audio-player__disclaimer { background-color: #e6711b; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; height: 25px; left: -110px; line-height: 12px; margin-left: 0; padding: 0 7px; position: relative; top: 25px; width: 66px; } .inline-audio-player__disclaimer:hover .inline-audio-player__arrow { -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); } .inline-audio-player__inner-arrow { color: #4d4d49; font-size: 10px; } .inline-audio-player__arrow-button { background-color: transparent; border: 0; margin-left: auto; outline: none; -webkit-transition: all 0.5s ease; transition: all 0.5s ease; } .inline-audio-player__arrow-button__open { -webkit-transform: rotate(180deg); transform: rotate(180deg); } .inline-audio-player__disclaimer-copy { color: #444; display: block; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0; line-height: 17px; margin-top: 16px; } .inline-audio-player__arrow { border: solid #fff; border-width: 0 2px 2px 0; display: inline-block; padding: 3px; position: relative; top: -1px; -webkit-transform: rotate(-45deg); transform: rotate(-45deg); -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .inline-audio-player__hidden { display: none; } .inline-audio-player .collapsible-container { background-color: #ededed; color: #444; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; padding: 1rem; } .inline-audio-player .collapsible-container__hide { display: none; } .inline-audio-player .previous-button__inline-audio { margin-right: 1px; } .inline-audio-player__line { margin-top: 16px; } .inline-audio-player .previous-media-button { height: 50px; margin-right: 1px; width: 50px; } .inline-audio-player .previous-button__inline-audio { margin-right: 1px; } .copyright__text { color: #737373; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; line-height: 24px; margin-bottom: 10px; text-align: center; } @media (max-width: 767px) { .copyright__text { margin-top: 12px; } } .content-embed { width: 100%; } .infographic-embed__frame { width: 100%; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .article-video { height: 100%; position: relative; } .article-video img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .article-video__overlay { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; top: 0; width: 100%; } .article-video__play-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; left: 50%; padding: 0; position: absolute; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); z-index: 1500; } .article-video__label { margin-bottom: 16px; } .article-video__image { bottom: 0; height: 100%; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .article-video__image--hide { opacity: 0; } .article-video__playercore { display: block; } .article-video__playercore--mobile { display: none; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .article-video__playercore--show { display: block; } .article-video--bordered { border-radius: 4px; overflow: hidden; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .hero-video { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 180px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: relative; z-index: 1; } .hero-video__video { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 80%; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: relative; width: 80%; z-index: 2; } .hero-video__video--desktop { left: 0; top: 65px; width: 71.5% !important; } .hero-video__video--mobile { height: 100%; width: 100%; } .hero-video__video--small-desktop { height: 70%; left: 0; top: 78px; width: 67%; } .hero-video--small-desktop, .hero-video--desktop { display: block; height: 720px; } .hero-video img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; -webkit-filter: brightness(40%); filter: brightness(40%); } @media all and (-ms-high-contrast: none), (-ms-high-contrast: active) { .hero-video img { opacity: 0.5; } } .hero-video--mobile { height: 280px; } .hero-video--medium-mobile { height: 430px; } .hero-video--tablet { height: 574px; } .hero-video--tablet .hero-video__video { margin-bottom: 10px; } .hero-video__play-button { position: absolute; z-index: 100; } .hero-video__video div div { position: inherit !important; position: unset !important; } .share-tools-popout { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #fff; border: 1px solid #979797; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; padding: 30px 0 20px; position: relative; width: 300px; } .share-tools-popout__text { color: #444; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; margin: 0 18px 18px; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; } .share-tools-popout__url-container { padding: 0 18px; width: 100%; } .share-tools-popout__articleurl { border: 1px solid #979797; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; color: #a39f9f; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: -0.5px; margin-bottom: 8px; margin-top: 0; padding: 12px 10px; text-align: center; width: 262px; } .share-tools-popout__close { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: unset; border: unset; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; position: absolute; right: 8px; top: 20px; } .share-tools-popout__close:hover .share-tools-popout__close-icon { color: #888; -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } .share-tools-popout__close-icon { color: #000; font-size: 16px; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .share-tools-popout__border-arrow { background-color: #fff; border: 1px solid #979797; border-bottom: 0; border-right: 0; height: 12px; left: 40px; position: absolute; top: -7px; -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); width: 12px; } .share-tools-popout__tools { margin-bottom: 13px; } .share-tools-popout__details { -ms-flex-item-align: normal; -ms-grid-row-align: normal; align-self: normal; color: #444; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0; line-height: 16px; margin: 0; max-width: 180px; padding-left: 14px; } .share-tools-popout__copied, .share-tools-popout__copy { background-color: #000; border: unset; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; margin-bottom: 18px; padding: 12px 6px; text-transform: uppercase; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; width: 110px; } .share-tools-popout__copy:hover { background-color: #555; } .share-tools-popout__copied .gelicon--yes { color: #ff9700; margin-left: 8px; } .share-button-with-popout { position: relative; z-index: 9999; } .share-button-with-popout__popout { max-width: 330px; padding-right: 8px; position: absolute; top: 53px; width: 100%; } .share-button-with-popout__popout--desktop { width: auto; } .article-end__line--long { margin-bottom: 24px; } .article-end__share-tools { margin-bottom: 0; } .article-end--tablet .article-end__line--long { margin-bottom: 36px; } .article-end--desktop .article-end__line--long { margin-bottom: 44px; } .article-end--desktop .article-end__share-tools { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; margin-bottom: 50px; } .article-end--desktop .article-end__share { margin-top: 0; } .article-end__share { margin-top: 5px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .article-share-tools { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .article-share-tools a, .article-share-tools button { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #e4e4e4; border-radius: 0; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; color: #979797; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 52px; margin-right: 2px; width: 52px; } .article-share-tools--dark a, .article-share-tools--dark button { color: #444; height: 54px; width: 54px; } .article-share-tools--dark a svg, .article-share-tools--dark button svg { stroke: #444; } .article-share-tools a:hover, .article-share-tools button:hover { background-color: #fff; } .article-share-tools .facebook-icon:hover { color: #3b5898; } .article-share-tools .email-icon:hover { color: #615f5d; } .article-share-tools .twitter-icon:hover { color: #47c7fa; } .article-share-tools .linkedin-icon:hover { color: #0077b5; } .article-share-tools .whatsapp-icon:hover { color: #25d366; } .article-share-tools .facebook-messenger { color: #0184ff; } .article-share-tools .ticked-icon { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #e4e4e4; border-radius: 0; -webkit-box-shadow: none; box-shadow: none; font-size: 11px; margin-right: 2px; padding: 3px; } .article-share-tools--popout > *, .article-share-tools--popout a { color: #020203; margin-bottom: 3px; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .domestic-disclaimer { background-color: #333; position: relative; } .domestic-disclaimer__content { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin: auto; max-width: 990px; } .domestic-disclaimer__content--desktop-small { max-width: 976px; } .domestic-disclaimer__content--desktop { max-width: 1248px; } .domestic-disclaimer__text { color: #d8d8d8; font-size: 13px; line-height: 14px; margin: auto; padding: 8px 16px; } .domestic-disclaimer__text--tablet { font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px; padding: 16px 54px 16px 16px; } .domestic-disclaimer__text--desktop { font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px; margin-left: 0; max-width: 890px; padding: 14px 16px; } .domestic-disclaimer__close-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: unset; border: unset; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding: 0 16px 0 0; position: relative; } .domestic-disclaimer__close-button--desktop { padding: 0 16px 0 0; } .domestic-disclaimer__close-icon { color: #d8d8d8; font-size: 16px; } .domestic-disclaimer__close-icon--desktop { font-size: 22px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .section-header-text__text { background-color: #fff; border-radius: 4px; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 20px 0 rgba(153, 153, 153, 0.5), 0 2px 5px 0 rgba(153, 153, 153, 0.5); box-shadow: 0 0 20px 0 rgba(153, 153, 153, 0.5), 0 2px 5px 0 rgba(153, 153, 153, 0.5); margin: 0 8px; opacity: 0.95; padding: 16px; position: relative; z-index: 3; } .section-header-text__text--no-margin { margin: 0; } .section-header-text__ad { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: end; justify-content: flex-end; margin: 0 8px 8px; position: relative; top: unset; } .section-header-text__ad--desktop { margin: 0 0 8px; } .section-header-text__title { display: inline-block; } .section-header-text__title--large-margin { margin: 0 40px 16px 0; } .section-header-text__title--premium { border: 1.78px solid; padding: 8px; } .section-header-text__title-content { color: #444; font-size: 22px; font-weight: bold; margin: unset; } .section-header-text__title-content--tablet { font-size: 24px; } .section-header-text__title-content--desktop { font-size: 28px; } .section-header-text__description { color: #555; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px; margin: 0; } .section-header-text__description--large { font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .section-header-unit { max-width: 1280px; position: relative; } .section-header-unit--tablet { height: 320px; } .section-header-unit--desktop { border-radius: 4px; height: 320px; overflow: hidden; } .section-header-unit__image { height: 320px; max-height: 320px; overflow: hidden; position: relative; } .section-header-unit__image img { left: 50%; position: relative; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); } .section-header-unit__image--right img { left: unset; min-width: 100%; right: 0; width: unset; } .section-header-unit__image--left img { left: unset; min-width: 100%; right: unset; width: unset; } .section-header-unit__content { position: relative; -webkit-transform: translateY(-50%); transform: translateY(-50%); } .section-header-unit__content--desktop { bottom: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; max-width: 420px; position: absolute; right: 32px; top: 0; -webkit-transform: none; transform: none; } .section-header-unit__content--advert { -webkit-transform: translateY(calc(-50% - 28px)); transform: translateY(calc(-50% - 28px)); /* - half the height of the advert so the text is still centered. */ } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .label-list { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; position: relative; } .label-list__line { width: 100%; } .label-list__content { margin: 30px 0 0 16px; width: 100%; } .label-list__content--tablet { margin: 34px 0 0 38px; } .label-list__content--desktop { margin: 42px 0 0 32px; } .label-list__list-item { margin: 0; padding: 0; } .label-list__link { color: #444; font-size: 18px; line-height: 24px; text-decoration: none; } .label-list__link:hover { color: #adadad; } .label-list__link--large { font-size: 22px; line-height: 29px; } .label-list__link:not(:first-of-type) { margin-top: 8px; } .label-list__link--large:not(:first-of-type) { margin-top: 12px; } .label-list__list-items { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; margin-top: 36px; } .label-list__list-items--tablet { margin-top: 52px; } .label-list__list-items--desktop { margin-top: 46px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .offline-reading { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .offline-reading__header { font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px; margin: 0 0 16px; max-width: 220px; text-align: center; } .offline-reading__header--desktop { font-size: 18px; max-width: 460px; } .offline-reading__buttons { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; text-align: center; } .offline-reading__buttons--desktop { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .offline-reading__top-stories { margin-bottom: 24px; } .offline-reading__top-stories--desktop { margin: 0 16px 0 0; } .offline-reading__icon { display: block; height: auto; margin-bottom: 24px; width: 120px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .rectangle-image { background-size: cover; height: 74px; max-width: 100%; overflow: hidden; position: relative; width: 132px; } .rectangle-image img { height: 100%; left: 50%; position: absolute; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); width: auto; } .rectangle-image--small { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; height: 32px; width: 56px; } .rectangle-image--large { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; height: 162px; width: 288px; } .rectangle-image--medium { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; height: 126px; width: 222px; } .rectangle-image--full-screen { padding-top: 56.25%; width: 100%; } .rectangle-image img { -webkit-transition: all 0.4s ease; transition: all 0.4s ease; } .rectangle-image__overlay { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6); bottom: 0; height: 100%; left: 0; opacity: 0; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; width: 100%; } .rectangle-image__overlay--culture { background-color: rgba(72, 41, 120, 0.6); } .rectangle-image:hover .rectangle-image__overlay { opacity: 1; } .rectangle-image:hover img { height: 108%; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .rectangle-story-item { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin: auto; max-width: 100%; width: 288px; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-image__overlay { opacity: 1; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-story-item__icon { background-color: #000; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture:hover .rectangle-story-item__icon { background-color: #482978; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container:hover .rectangle-image img { height: 108%; } .rectangle-story-item__image-container { position: relative; width: 100%; } .rectangle-story-item--tablet { width: 222px; } .rectangle-story-item__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex: 1 1 auto; flex: 1 1 auto; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin-top: 3px; width: 100%; } .rectangle-story-item__label { color: #4a4a4a; display: block; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; line-height: 16px; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 20px; padding-bottom: 3px; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; } .rectangle-story-item__label--worklife:hover, .rectangle-story-item__label--future:hover, .rectangle-story-item__label__travel:hover { background-image: none; } .rectangle-story-item__label--worklife > span:hover, .rectangle-story-item__label--future > span:hover, .rectangle-story-item__label__travel > span:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #4a4a4a; } .rectangle-story-item__label--culture:hover { background-image: none; } .rectangle-story-item__label--culture > span:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #482978; } .rectangle-story-item__line { display: block; margin: 16px 0; } .rectangle-story-item__author { color: #4a4a4a; display: block; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: 0.1px; line-height: 35px; text-decoration: none; } .rectangle-story-item__title { color: rgba(46, 46, 46, 0.85); display: block; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: -0.21px; line-height: 30px; text-decoration: none; } .rectangle-story-item__icon { background-color: #000; bottom: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 14px; height: 44px; line-height: 44px; position: absolute; text-align: center; -webkit-transition: 0.4s ease; transition: 0.4s ease; width: 44px; } .rectangle-story-item__title--white, .rectangle-story-item__author--white, .rectangle-story-item__label--white { color: #fff; } .rectangle-story-item__label--white:hover { border-bottom: 0; } .rectangle-story-item__label--white > span:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #fff; } .rectangle-article-group { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex: 1 1; flex: 1 1; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: relative; } .rectangle-article-group--tablet, .rectangle-article-group--desktop { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .rectangle-article-group__article { display: inline-block; padding-top: 12px; } .rectangle-article-group__article--tablet { padding: 0 16px 0 0; } .rectangle-article-group__article--desktop { padding: 0 24px 0 0; } .fake-ad { -ms-flex-line-pack: center; align-content: center; -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background: #f6f6f6; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; padding: 8px; } .fake-ad__body { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background: #5ae9cb; color: #fff; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex: 0 0 auto; flex: 0 0 auto; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; } .fake-ad__text { -ms-flex-item-align: center; -ms-grid-row-align: center; align-self: center; color: #444; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 1.5; text-align: right; text-transform: uppercase; } .fake-ad--mpu .fake-ad__body { height: 320px; width: 320px; } .fake-ad--mpu .fake-ad__text { width: 320px; } .fake-ad--mobile-leaderboard .fake-ad__body { height: 50px; width: 300px; } .fake-ad--mobile-leaderboard .fake-ad__text { width: 300px; } .fake-ad--leaderboard .fake-ad__body { height: 90px; width: 728px; } .fake-ad--leaderboard .fake-ad__text { width: 728px; } .body-text-card-inline-image { margin: 24px 0; position: relative; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .body-text-card { color: #444; display: block; font-size: 16px; line-height: 1.5; } .body-text-card__image, .body-text-card__video { margin: 24px 0; } .body-text-card__text { display: block; } .body-text-card__advert { margin: 20px 0; } .body-text-card__text div a { cursor: pointer; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; } .body-text-card__text a:hover { text-decoration: underline; } .body-text-card__text > div > p { margin: 0 20px 16px; } .body-text-card__text > div > p:last-child { margin-bottom: 0; padding-bottom: 0; } .body-text-card__drop-capped { float: left; margin: 0 8px 0 20px; padding-top: 6px; } .body-text-card__text--drop-capped p:first-of-type::first-letter { color: transparent; font-size: 0; } .body-text-card__text--flush-text > div > p { margin-left: 0; margin-right: 0; } .body-text-card__text--future div a:visited { color: #666; } .body-text-card__text--future div a { color: #002856; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #002856; text-decoration-color: #002856; } .body-text-card__text--travel div a { color: #589e50; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #589e50; text-decoration-color: #589e50; } .body-text-card__text--worklife div a { color: #0052a1; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #0052a1; text-decoration-color: #0052a1; } .body-text-card__text--earth div a { color: #0fbb56; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #0fbb56; text-decoration-color: #0fbb56; } .body-text-card__text--culture div a { color: #472479; -webkit-text-decoration-color: #472479; text-decoration-color: #472479; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .branding { -webkit-box-sizing: content-box !important; box-sizing: content-box !important; display: inline-block; height: 24px; padding: 12px 16px; width: 100%; } .branding__icon { display: inline-block; height: 24px; width: 100%; } .branding__icon g { fill: #fff; } .branding--medium { padding: 16px; } .branding--large { padding: 16px 24px; } .branding--worklife { background-color: #0052a1; } .branding--future { background-color: #002856; } .branding--culture { background-color: #472479; } .branding--earth { background-color: #0fbb56; } .branding--travel { background-color: #589e50; } .branding--travel svg, .branding--earth svg, .branding--culture svg, .branding--future svg, .branding--worklife svg { height: 24px; } .branding--small, .branding--small svg { height: 17px; } .branding__icon--medium, .branding--medium, .branding--medium svg { height: 22px; } .branding__icon--large, .branding--large, .branding--large svg { height: 24px; } .branding__icon--largest, .branding--largest, .branding--largest svg { height: 32px; } .branding__icon--small, .branding--travel .branding__icon--small svg, .branding--earth .branding__icon--small svg, .branding--culture .branding__icon--small svg, .branding--future .branding__icon--small svg, .branding--worklife .branding__icon--small svg { height: 17px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .swimlane-inner { background-position: center; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: auto 100%; display: block; padding: 24px 16px; } .swimlane-inner--small { padding: 24px 8px; } .swimlane-inner--tablet { padding: 28px 16px 42px; } .swimlane-inner--small-desktop { padding: 30px 16px 42px; } .swimlane-inner--desktop { padding: 38px 16px 42px; } .swimlane { overflow: hidden; position: relative; z-index: 0; } .swimlane__black { background-color: #0e0e0e; } .swimlane__background-image { height: 500px; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; width: 915px; z-index: -1; } .swimlane__background-image--mobile { height: 181px; width: 320px; } .swimlane__background-image--tablet { height: 421px; width: 752px; } .swimlane__background-image--desktop { height: 500px; width: 915px; } .swimlane__background-image--atb { background-color: rgba(51, 51, 51, 0.8); background-size: cover; height: 100%; width: 100%; } .swimlane__item { margin: 0 0 25px; width: 100%; } .swimlane__item--desktop { margin: 0; } .swimlane__item--tablet { margin: 0 16px 25px 0; width: calc((100% - 48px) / 3); } .swimlane__item--tablet:nth-of-type(3n + 3) { margin-right: 0; } .swimlane__item--two-columns { margin-right: 0 !important; max-width: 572px; width: 50%; } .swimlane__item--four-columns { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; margin-bottom: 25px; margin-right: 16px; width: calc((100% - 48px) / 4); } .swimlane__item--four-columns:nth-of-type(4n + 4) { margin-right: 0; } .swimlane__items { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; margin-top: 24px; text-align: left; } .swimlane__items--desktop { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin-top: 42px; } .swimlane__items--small-desktop { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-top: 30px; } .swimlane__items--tablet { -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin-top: 30px; } .swimlane__items--no-title { margin-top: 0; } .swimlane__content { margin: auto; max-width: 942px; text-align: center; } .swimlane__content--desktop { max-width: 1216px; } .swimlane__title { color: #fff; font-size: 14px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; text-transform: uppercase; } .swimlane__title--black { color: #010101; font-weight: 400; } .see-more-button-container-alt { color: #0e0e0e; } .follow-us-on { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; position: relative; } .follow-us-on__text { color: #fff; font-size: 16px; font-style: condensed; line-height: 20px; margin: 0 0 20px; padding: 0; text-transform: uppercase; } .follow-us-on__links { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .follow-us-on__link:first-child { margin-right: 16px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-bar { background-color: #fff; } .nav-bar__hidden-menu { display: none; } .nav-bar__visible-menu { display: block; } .nav-bar__no-scroll { max-height: 100vh; overflow: hidden; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .dot-with-label { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .dot-with-label__text { padding-left: 8px; } .dot-with-label__text a { text-decoration: none; } .dot-with-label__text:hover h2 { color: #adadad; } .sponsor-section { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; height: 100%; max-width: 530px; } .sponsor-section--menu { padding: 20px 0 16px 24px; } .sponsor-section__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; height: 100%; } .sponsor-section__container--desktop { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; } .sponsor-section__sponsor { color: #fff; padding-right: 16px; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; color: #4e4e4e; font-size: 26px; margin: 0; white-space: nowrap; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name--mobile { padding-bottom: 16px; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name--desktop { font-size: 22px; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name--menu { color: #fff; } .sponsor-section__sponsor-name--menu-desktop { font-size: 32px; } .sponsor-section__summary { color: #ebebeb; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; padding-top: 16px; } .sponsor-section__advert { display: inline-block; } .icon-with-label { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .icon-with-label__icon { padding-right: 10px; } .full-width-image-article { width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__container { min-height: 325px; overflow: hidden; position: relative; } .full-width-image-article__container--desktop { min-height: 400px; } .full-width-image-article__image { height: 100%; overflow: hidden; position: absolute; width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__image img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__text { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; color: #fff; left: 50%; max-width: 488px; padding: 0 20px; position: absolute; text-align: center; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__text a { color: #fff; text-decoration: none; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__label { display: inline-block; font-size: 14.4px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3.6px; line-height: 19px; margin-bottom: 11px; text-transform: uppercase; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__header { font-size: 24px; letter-spacing: -0.25px; line-height: 42px; margin: 0; padding: 0; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__header--desktop { font-size: 33.6px; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__author { font-size: 16.6px; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: -0.13px; line-height: 42px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 28px; } .full-width-image-article__text .full-width-image-article-text__author--desktop { margin-top: 32px; } .full-width-image-article__background { background-image: radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5, 36, 53, 0.37) 50%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0) 83%); height: 100%; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .full-width-image-article__link { color: #fff; text-decoration: none; } .more-articles { background-position: center; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: cover; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; overflow: hidden; position: relative; -webkit-transition: background-image 0.4s; transition: background-image 0.4s; } .more-articles__heading { display: inline-block; margin: auto; max-width: 1272px; padding: 20px 0 0 16px; position: relative; z-index: 5; } .more-articles__stories { margin: 10px 16px 42px; max-width: 1232px; padding: 8px; position: relative; z-index: 4; } .more-articles__stories--small { padding: 0; } .more-articles__stories--tablet { margin: 24px 16px 72px; max-width: 1216px; } .more-articles__stories--desktop { margin: 56px 48px 92px; max-width: 1152px; } .more-articles__story-container:not(:first-of-type) { padding-top: 16px; } .more-articles__line { opacity: 0.3; padding-top: 16px; z-index: 5; } .more-articles__image-overlay { background-color: rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.3); bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; z-index: 1; } .more-articles__image { opacity: 0; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; } .more-articles__image img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .more-articles__image--right img { left: unset; min-width: 100%; right: 0; width: unset; } .more-articles__image--left img { left: unset; min-width: 100%; right: unset; width: unset; } .more-articles__image--visible { opacity: 1; } .more-articles__story--two-columns, .more-articles__story--three-columns { padding-right: 16px; width: 310px; } .more-articles__story-container:nth-child(even) .more-articles__story--two-columns { padding-right: 0; } .more-articles__story-container:nth-child(3n + 3) .more-articles__story--three-columns { padding-right: 0; } .more-articles__stories--two-columns, .more-articles__stories--three-columns { -ms-flex-align: end; align-items: flex-end; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; padding: 16px; } .more-articles__stories--two-columns .more-articles-item__link, .more-articles__stories--three-columns .more-articles-item__link { pointer-events: all; } .more-articles__story-container--two-columns { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; width: 50%; } .more-articles__story-container--two-columns:nth-child(2) { padding-top: 0; } .more-articles__story-container--three-columns { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; width: 33%; } .more-articles__story-container--three-columns:nth-child(-n + 3) { padding-top: 0; } .more-articles__heading--small { padding: 20px 0 0 8px; } .more-articles__heading--desktop { max-width: 1264px; padding: 38px 0 0 16px; } .more-articles__heading--tablet { max-width: 1264px; padding: 24px 0 0 16px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .more-articles-item { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; position: relative; z-index: 5; } .more-articles-item__link { text-decoration: none; } .more-articles-item__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; width: 100%; } .more-articles-item__label { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-top: 8px; } .more-articles-item__type { margin-right: 16px; position: relative; } .more-articles-item__icon { color: #fff; font-size: 12px; margin-right: 8px; } .more-articles-item__text { color: #fff; font-size: 20px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 24px; padding: 0; position: relative; text-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.7); -webkit-transition: color 0.4s; transition: color 0.4s; } .more-articles-item__text--medium { font-size: 22px; line-height: 28px; } .more-articles-item__text--large { color: #ebebeb; font-size: 30px; line-height: 37px; } .more-articles-item__container--column { -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .more-articles-item__image-container { position: relative; } .more-articles-item--two-columns { margin-right: 16px; } .more-articles-item__label--desktop { margin-top: 16px; } .more-articles-item__label--tablet { margin-top: 16px; } .more-articles-item__link:hover .more-articles-item__text { color: #adadad; } .most-popular { background-color: #f9f9f9; } .most-popular__inner { margin: 0 auto; max-width: 894px; padding: 45px 24px 21px; } .most-popular__inner--desktop { padding: 47px 0 86px; } .most-popular__header { color: #010101; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; margin: 0; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; } .most-popular__items { display: block; } .most-popular__items--desktop { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-top: 57px; } .most-popular-item { box-sizing: border-box; padding-top: 33px; } .most-popular-item:last-of-type { margin-bottom: 42px; } .most-popular-item--desktop { padding: 0 20px; width: calc(33.333%); } .most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(3n + 2) { -ms-flex-order: 2; order: 2; padding: 38px 20px; } .most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(3n + 3) { -ms-flex-order: 3; order: 3; } .most-popular-item--desktop:nth-child(n+4) { border-left: 1px solid #dadada; } .most-popular-item--desktop:last-of-type { margin-bottom: 0; } .most-popular-item a { text-decoration: none; } .most-popular-item__content { -ms-flex-align: end; align-items: flex-end; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; margin-top: 5px; } .most-popular-item__number { color: #cbcbcb; font-size: 40px; font-style: italic; font-weight: bold; line-height: 32px; margin: 0 20px 0 0; width: 25px; } .most-popular-item__label { color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; margin: 0 0 0 45px; text-transform: uppercase; } .most-popular-item__title { color: #2e2e2ecc; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: -0.17px; line-height: 22px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; } .most-popular-item__title--desktop { font-size: 16px; } .StickyElementContent { -webkit-transition: -webkit-transform 0.5s; transition: -webkit-transform 0.5s; transition: transform 0.5s; transition: transform 0.5s, -webkit-transform 0.5s; } .StickyElementContent--is-undocked { left: 0; position: fixed; top: 0; width: 100%; } .StickyElementContent--is-hidden { -webkit-transform: translateY(-100%); transform: translateY(-100%); } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .error-page-header { position: relative; } .error-page-header__headers { margin-bottom: 16px; position: relative; z-index: 1; } .error-page-header__headers--tablet-plus { margin-bottom: 32px; } .error-page-header__description { color: #444; font-size: 16px; line-height: 20px; } .error-page-header__play-icon { margin-right: 16px; } .error-page-header__play-icon button { color: #adadad; } .error-page-header__dot-label { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .styled-list { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; } .styled-list__item { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .styled-list__item:not(:first-of-type) { padding-top: 8px; } .styled-list__item a { font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; } .styled-list__item--worklife a { color: #8beed9; } .styled-list__item--future a { color: #ffc857; } .styled-list__item--culture a { color: #472479; } .styled-list__item--earth a { color: #002856; } .styled-list__item--travel a { color: #002856; } .styled-list__text { color: #444; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; padding-left: 20px; } .styled-list__dot { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; margin-top: 8px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .image-gallery-item { margin: 26px 0; } .image-gallery-item img { height: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; width: 100%; } .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -3%; width: 106%; } @media (max-width: 1000px) and (min-width: 767px) { .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -16%; width: 116%; } } @media (max-width: 1180px) and (min-width: 1024px) { .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -8%; width: 108%; } } @media (max-width: 1365px) and (min-width: 1280px) { .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -42%; width: 142%; } } @media (min-width: 1366px) { .image-gallery-item__image--landscape { margin: 20px 0 20px -55%; width: 155%; } } .image-gallery-item__image--portrait { margin: 20px 0; width: 100%; } @media (max-width: 599px) { .image-gallery-item__image--portrait { margin-left: -3%; width: 106%; } } .image-gallery-item__image--portrait, .image-gallery-item__image--portrait img { max-height: 507px; min-height: 463px; } @media (max-width: 1279px) and (min-width: 768px) { .image-gallery-item__image--portrait, .image-gallery-item__image--portrait img { min-height: 818px; } } .error-page { position: relative; } .error-page__container { margin-bottom: 16px; } .error-page__container--tablet-plus { margin-bottom: 32px; } .error-page__title { margin-bottom: 12px; } .error-page__title--desktop { margin-bottom: 24px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .article-labels { font-size: 12px; line-height: 16px; text-transform: uppercase; } .article-labels a { color: #fff; letter-spacing: 1px; text-decoration: none; } .article-labels__text:first-child { font-weight: bold; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .rectangle-story-group { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; margin: auto; position: relative; } .rectangle-story-group__articles { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex: 1 1; flex: 1 1; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: relative; } .rectangle-story-group__articles--small-tablet { -ms-flex-pack: unset; justify-content: unset; } .rectangle-story-group__articles--full-screen { display: block; } .rectangle-story-group__article { display: inline-block; padding-left: 18px; padding-top: 16px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--tablet { padding-left: 20px; padding-top: 22px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--desktop { padding-left: 22px; padding-top: 24px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--desktop:first-of-type { padding-left: 8px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--small-tablet { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; width: 50%; } .rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen { display: block; padding: 16px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--full-screen:first-of-type { padding-top: 0; } .rectangle-story-group__article--small-desktop { padding-left: 10px; } .rectangle-story-group__article--small-desktop:last-of-type { padding-right: 8px; } .rectangle-story-group__articles-container { margin: auto; max-width: 950px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%; } .rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 16px 16px 24px; } .rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu--desktop { border-left: 1px solid #dadada; display: block; padding: 0 0 0 16px; padding-top: 0; } .rectangle-story-group__advert-mpu--small-desktop { display: block; padding: 0 0 0 8px; } .rectangle-story-group__hero--desktop { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .rectangle-story-group__article-hero--tablet { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .article-title-card-rectangle { width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image:hover .article-title-card-rectangle__overlay { opacity: 1; } .article-title-card-rectangle__overlay { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6); bottom: 0; height: 100%; left: 0; opacity: 0; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; -webkit-transition: -webkit-transform 0.5s ease; transition: -webkit-transform 0.5s ease; transition: transform 0.5s ease; transition: transform 0.5s ease, -webkit-transform 0.5s ease; width: 100%; will-change: transform; } .article-title-card-rectangle__overlay--culture { background-color: rgba(72, 41, 120, 0.6); } .article-title-card-rectangle__image { margin-right: 40px; max-height: 390px; max-width: 620px; overflow: hidden; position: relative; width: auto; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image img { display: block; min-height: 194px; min-width: 344px; width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image--tablet, .article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop { margin-right: 0; width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image--tablet img, .article-title-card-rectangle__image--desktop img { width: 110%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image--preview-article { margin-right: 0; } .article-title-card-rectangle__image--index { margin-right: 0; max-width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__container { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; position: relative; } .article-title-card-rectangle__container--tablet, .article-title-card-rectangle__container--desktop { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: row; flex-direction: row; } .article-title-card-rectangle__container--preview-article { margin-right: 8px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__container--index { -ms-flex-align: initial; align-items: initial; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box { background-color: #fff; margin-left: 40px; padding: 16px 22px 0; position: relative; top: -22px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label { color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; line-height: 20px; margin: 0; text-transform: uppercase; width: -webkit-fit-content; width: -moz-fit-content; width: fit-content; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--worklife:hover, .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--future:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #4a4a4a; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--culture:hover { border-bottom: 1px solid #482978; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index { color: #000; font-size: 20px; font-weight: 300; letter-spacing: -0.53px; line-height: 30px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index--tablet { font-size: 28px; letter-spacing: -0.74px; line-height: 44px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__label--index--desktop { font-size: 32px; letter-spacing: -0.84px; line-height: 44px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header { color: #2e2e2e; font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: -0.21px; line-height: 30px; margin-bottom: 30px; margin-top: 12px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--desktop { font-size: 28px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--tablet { font-size: 26px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__header--index { color: #3d3d3d; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: -0.12px; line-height: 31px; margin-top: 4px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author { color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: -0.1px; line-height: 35px; margin: 8px 0 0; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box__author--tablet { margin: 14px 0 0; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--tablet, .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop { left: -40px; margin: 0; padding: 40px; top: 0; -webkit-transform: none; transform: none; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--desktop { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--tablet { padding: 35px 22px 22px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index { left: 0; margin-right: 40px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index--tablet { margin-left: 50px; margin-right: 50px; padding: 30px 36px 0; top: -80px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-box--index--desktop { margin-left: 50px; max-width: 560px; top: -88px; width: 100%; } .article-title-card-rectangle__link { color: #000; text-decoration: none; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-container { display: block; max-width: 252px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--tablet, .article-title-card-rectangle__text-container--desktop { max-width: 320px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__preview-container { color: #4d4d4d; text-decoration: none; } .article-title-card-rectangle__preview-text { display: block; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; margin-top: 27px; max-width: 396px; } .article-title-card-rectangle__read-more { display: inline-block; font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 4px; margin: 25px 16px 0 0; text-transform: uppercase; } .article-title-card-rectangle__arrow { color: #bababa; display: inline-block; -webkit-transform: rotate(-90deg); transform: rotate(-90deg); } .article-headline { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; padding: 43px 0; } .article-headline .article-labels { text-align: center; } .article-headline__line--short { margin-bottom: 40px; } .article-headline--largeTablet .article-headline__text { font-size: 32px; text-align: center; } .article-headline--tablet { padding: 31px 0; } .article-headline--tablet .article-headline__collection { margin-bottom: 24px; } .article-headline--tablet .article-headline__text { font-size: 32px; letter-spacing: -0.84px; margin: 0 15px 23px; text-align: center; } .article-headline--mobile { padding: 20px 0; } .article-headline--mobile .article-headline__text { font-size: 24px; letter-spacing: -0.63px; margin: 0 15px 15px; text-align: center; } .article-headline--mobile .article-headline__collection { margin-bottom: 15px; } .article-headline__collection { margin-bottom: 40px; } .article-headline__collection a { color: #242424; } .article-headline__text { font-size: 45px; letter-spacing: -1.26px; line-height: 30px; margin-bottom: 44px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .loading-spinner { margin: 0 auto; text-align: center; } .loading-spinner__message { color: #002756; display: block; font-size: 1.2rem; font-weight: bold; margin: 12px 0; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; } .loading-spinner__image { display: block; margin: 0 auto; width: 48px; } @media only screen and (min-width: 1600px) { .hero-image { height: 900px; position: relative; } .hero-image img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 1600px) { .hero-image { height: 0; overflow: hidden; padding-top: 56.25%; position: relative; } .hero-image img { height: 100%; left: 0; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .article-hero { height: 672px; margin: 0; overflow: hidden; position: relative; width: 100%; } .article-hero--small-mobile { height: 373px; } .article-hero--mobile { height: 486px; } .article-hero--small-tablet { height: 433px; } .article-hero--tablet { height: 433px; } .article-hero--tablet .article-hero__content { padding: 60px 15px 0; } .article-hero__content { margin: auto; max-width: 1004px; pointer-events: none; position: relative; z-index: 1; } .article-hero--desktop { height: 573px; } .article-hero--desktop .article-hero__content { padding: 50px 30px 0; } .article-hero--large-desktop .article-hero__content { max-width: 1276px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content { padding: 60px 10px 0; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-title, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-title, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-title { font-size: 24px; line-height: 30px; max-width: 220px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-line, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-line, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-line { margin-bottom: 16px; margin-top: 16px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-labels, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-labels, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-labels { margin-bottom: 15px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-cta, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-cta, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-cta { line-height: 22px; } .article-hero--small-tablet .article-hero__content-cta a, .article-hero--mobile .article-hero__content-cta a, .article-hero--small-mobile .article-hero__content-cta a { letter-spacing: 3px; } .article-hero__ambient-hidden { display: none; } .article-hero__background-ambient { bottom: 0; left: 0; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; z-index: -1; } .article-hero__background::after { background-image: linear-gradient(-63deg, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0) 0%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.06) 24%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2) 51%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.32) 67%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.51) 100%); content: ''; height: 100%; left: 0; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .article-hero__background img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .article-hero__background--parallax img { -webkit-transform: scale(1.1); transform: scale(1.1); } .article-hero a { color: #fff; letter-spacing: 3px; text-decoration: none; } .article-hero__content-cta { clear: both; font-size: 16px; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: 4px; line-height: 20px; max-width: 170px; pointer-events: all; text-shadow: 0 2px 4px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5); text-transform: uppercase; } .article-hero__content-cta a { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; letter-spacing: 4px; } .article-hero__content-labels { font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 1px; line-height: 16px; margin-bottom: 20px; pointer-events: all; } .article-hero__content-line { background-color: #fff; border: 0; display: block; float: left; height: 1px; margin-bottom: 18px; margin-right: 300px; margin-top: 25px; width: 120px; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow { position: relative; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow::before { background: #fff; content: ''; height: 2px; left: 5px; margin-top: -1px; opacity: 0.4; position: absolute; top: 50%; -webkit-transition: all 0.3s ease; transition: all 0.3s ease; width: 20px; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow::after { border-right: 2px solid #fff; border-top: 2px solid #fff; content: ''; display: inline-block; height: 10px; left: 16px; margin-top: 5px; opacity: 0.4; position: absolute; -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); width: 10px; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow--small::before { opacity: 1; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow--small::after { margin-top: 6px; opacity: 1; } .article-hero__content-right-arrow img { height: 11px; margin-left: 10px; width: 19px; } .article-hero__content-title { color: #fff; font-size: 50px; line-height: 54px; margin-top: 0; max-width: 450px; pointer-events: all; text-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(51, 51, 51, 0.7); } .article-hero__content-title a { letter-spacing: -1.32px; } .article-hero__title-text { display: inline; } .article-hero__content-title > a:hover > div, .article-hero__content-subtitle > a:hover { background-image: -webkit-gradient(linear, left top, right top, color-stop(100%, currentColor), color-stop(0%, transparent)); background-image: linear-gradient(to right, currentColor 100%, transparent 0%); background-position: 0 1.15em; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 2px; } .article-hero__content-subtitle { clear: both; color: #fff; font-size: 23px; font-weight: 500; line-height: 32px; margin-bottom: 16px; margin-top: 0; max-width: 440px; pointer-events: all; text-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(51, 51, 51, 0.5); } .article-hero__content-subtitle a { letter-spacing: -1px; } .article-hero__content-title--small { font-size: 30px; line-height: 35px; } .article-hero__content-title--tablet { clear: both; font-size: 32px; letter-spacing: -0.84px; line-height: 42px; max-width: 264px; } .article-hero__content-title--small a { letter-spacing: -0.63px; } .article-hero__down-arrow { background-color: transparent; border: 0; bottom: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; left: calc(50% - 29px); margin: 0; margin-bottom: 15px; padding: 0; position: absolute; -webkit-transform: scale(0.5); transform: scale(0.5); } .see-more-button-container { color: #fff; } /* stylelint-disable */ @media screen and (min-width: 1000px) { .similar-articles-story { max-width: 900px; } } @media screen and (min-width: 601px) and (max-width: 999px) { .similar-articles-story { max-width: 600px; } } @media screen and (max-width: 600px) { .similar-articles-story { max-width: 300px; } } .related-articles { position: relative; } .related-articles__header { text-align: center; background-color: #000; color: #fff; font-size: 14px; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: 3px; margin: 0 0 20px; padding: 8px; text-transform: uppercase; } .related-articles__header--bright { margin: 20px 0 1.15ex; font-size: 13px; background-color: #d8d8d8; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.7); letter-spacing: 2px; line-height: 3; } .related-articles__list { list-style: none; padding: 0 0 1.5ex 0; margin: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: row wrap; flex-flow: row wrap; /* .with-numbers */ } .related-articles__list li { -ms-flex-preferred-size: 100%; flex-basis: 100%; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: row nowrap; flex-flow: row nowrap; -ms-flex-pack: start; justify-content: flex-start; -ms-flex-align: stretch; align-items: stretch; -ms-flex-line-pack: stretch; align-content: stretch; } .related-articles__list li > div { -ms-flex: 1 1; flex: 1 1; } .related-articles__list.with-numbers { counter-reset: related-numbers; list-style-image: url(data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7); margin: 0 35px; } .related-articles__list.with-numbers li::before { counter-increment: related-numbers; content: counter(related-numbers); font-weight: bold; font-size: 40px; -ms-flex-item-align: end; align-self: flex-end; line-height: 1.85; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: 0; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.18); -ms-flex: 0.1 0.1; flex: 0.1 0.1; -ms-flex-preferred-size: 1ex; flex-basis: 1ex; padding-right: 1ex; text-align: center; display: block; } .related-articles__list.with-numbers li { margin-bottom: 10px; } .related-articles--wide-layout { background-color: initial; margin-top: 20px; } ul.related-articles__list:not(.list-wide) li { max-width: 100%; } ul.related-articles__list:not(.list-wide).with-borders li:not(:last-of-type) { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); } ul.related-articles__list.list-wide li { max-width: 49.8%; } ul.related-articles__list.list-wide.with-borders li { border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1); } .related-article { -ms-flex-align: stretch; align-items: stretch; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: row nowrap; flex-flow: row nowrap; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 16px; min-height: 90px; } .related-article__image { width: calc(90px + 0.5ex); -ms-flex: 0.3 0.3; flex: 0.3 0.3; min-width: 90px; max-width: calc(90px + 0.5ex); margin: 0; display: block; line-height: 0; -ms-flex-order: -1; order: -1; } .related-article__image img { width: 100%; border: 0; margin: 0 12px 0 0; } .related-article__text { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: column nowrap; flex-flow: column nowrap; width: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: start; justify-content: flex-start; -ms-flex-line-pack: start; align-content: flex-start; position: relative; padding: 12px 6px 12px 0; line-height: 1.5; } .related-article__text a { width: 100%; padding-left: 12px; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; text-decoration: none; } .related-article__text a + a { margin-top: 1ex; } .related-article__text br { display: none; } .related-article__title { color: rgba(46, 46, 46, 0.85); letter-spacing: -0.01em; -ms-flex: 1 1; flex: 1 1; } .related-article__title:hover { color: #2e2e2e; } .related-article__collection { display: block; color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 2.5px; line-height: 1.2; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; } .related-article__collection span { display: none; } .related-articles__list.square-images .related-article { margin: 0.75ex 0; } .related-articles__list.square-images .related-article:hover { background-color: #f9f9f9; } .related-articles__list.square-images.list-wide .related-article { margin: 1.25ex 1.75ex; } .related-articles__list.round-images a:hover { color: #000; } .related-articles__list.round-images .related-article { margin: 1.25ex 1.75ex; } .related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__title { padding-left: 10px; } .related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__image { width: calc(90px + 15px); max-width: calc(90px + 15px); margin: 0; } .related-articles__list.round-images .related-article__image img { border-radius: 50%; } .related-articles__list.round-images.list-wide .related-article { margin: 1.75ex 1.75ex; } .vertical-story-card-item { cursor: pointer; font-family: 'ReithSans'; height: 456px; margin: 20px 10px; position: relative; width: 297px; } @media only screen and (max-width: 1007px) { .vertical-story-card-item { width: 276px; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .vertical-story-card-item { width: 276px; } } .vertical-story-card-item img { width: 100%; } .vertical-story-card-item__content-box { background-color: #fff; bottom: 0; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 0 5px #d8d8d8; box-shadow: 0 0 5px #d8d8d8; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; height: 111px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; position: absolute; right: 0; width: 275px; } @media only screen and (max-width: 1007px) { .vertical-story-card-item__content-box { width: 261px; } } .vertical-story-card-item__content-box h1 { color: #4a4a4a; font-size: 0.75rem; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; margin: 0; padding: 0 10px; text-transform: uppercase; } .vertical-story-card-item__content-box h2 { color: #3d3d3d; font-size: 1.3125rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.06px; line-height: 42px; margin: 0; padding: 0 10px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .see-more-button { border-bottom: 1px solid #979797; text-align: center; } .see-more-button__inner { background-color: transparent; border: 0; color: #6c6c6c; cursor: pointer; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; margin-bottom: 13px; position: relative; text-transform: uppercase; -webkit-transition: linear 0.6s; transition: linear 0.6s; } .see-more-button__inner-arrow { color: #6c6c6c; font-size: 10px; position: absolute; right: 9px; top: 2px; -webkit-transition: linear 0.3s; transition: linear 0.3s; } .see-more-button__inner-text { margin-right: 24px; } .see-more-button__inner:hover { color: #4a4a4a; } .see-more-button__inner:hover .see-more-button__inner-arrow { color: #4a4a4a; -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } .vertical-story-group { font-family: 'ReithSans'; position: relative; } .vertical-story-group img { -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; width: 100%; } .vertical-story-group__image-container { height: 370px; position: relative; width: 100%; } .vertical-story-group__image-container img { height: 100%; } .vertical-story-group__image-mask { background: -webkit-gradient(linear, left top, right top, from(rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6)), to(rgba(0, 0, 0, 0))); background: linear-gradient(to right, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6), rgba(0, 0, 0, 0)); bottom: 0; left: 0; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 0; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container { color: #fff; left: 50%; position: absolute; text-align: center; top: 80px; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); } @media only screen and (max-width: 599px) { .vertical-story-group__heading-container { top: 120px; } } .vertical-story-group__heading-container button { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.8); border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; font-size: 0.875rem; letter-spacing: 0.183rem; outline: none; padding: 15px 32px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container h1 { font-size: 0.9rem; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3.6px; margin-bottom: 20px; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container h2 { font-size: 2.1rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.25px; line-height: 42px; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; left: 0; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 65px; width: 70%; } @media only screen and (max-width: 599px) { .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } } .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape h1 { color: #fff; font-size: 2.25rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: 0.95px; margin: 0; } .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.8); border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; font-size: 0.875rem; height: 60px; letter-spacing: 0.183rem; outline: none; padding: 15px 32px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; width: 260px; } @media only screen and (max-width: 599px) { .vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button { margin-top: 50px; } } .vertical-story-group__container { display: -ms-grid; display: grid; grid-auto-rows: minmax(auto, auto); grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(290px, 310px)); height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; justify-items: center; margin-top: -210px; width: 100%; } @media only screen and (max-width: 599px) { .vertical-story-group__container { margin-top: -120px; } } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .mapContainer .mapTitle { background: transparent; color: #fff; display: block; font-family: 'curiousSans-Bold', Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 0.9rem; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3.6px; line-height: 1.1875em; margin-top: 2%; min-width: 25%; padding: 2%; padding-bottom: 0.375em; padding-left: 8px; padding-right: 16px; padding-top: 0.375em; position: relative; text-align: center; z-index: 100; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer .mapTitle { font-size: 2.4em; } } .mapContainer .styled-line { margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; } .mapContainer button { background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.9); border: 0; -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 60px; outline: none; padding: 2px; width: 60px; } .mapContainer button .gelicon { color: #589e50; font-size: 2.5em; vertical-align: middle; } .mapContainer button:hover { background-color: #f2f2f2; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer button { height: 50px; width: 50px; } .mapContainer button .gelicon { font-size: 2em; } } .mapContainer .navigationPanel { -ms-flex-align: end; align-items: flex-end; bottom: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; left: 50%; max-width: 1200px; padding: 10px; position: absolute; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, 0); transform: translate(-50%, 0); width: 100%; } .mapContainer .zoomControls { background-color: #fff; } .mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content { border-radius: 0; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 3px 0 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) !important; box-shadow: 0 3px 0 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) !important; cursor: default; font-family: 'curiousSans-Bold', Arial, sans-serif; max-width: 300px; padding: 0 !important; text-align: left; } .mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content img { width: 300px; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content { max-width: 190px; } .mapContainer .mapboxgl-popup-content img { width: 190px; } } .mapContainer .mapboxgl-ctrl-logo { display: none !important; } .mapContainer .map-marker svg { -webkit-transition: all 0.1s ease-out; transition: all 0.1s ease-out; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer .map-marker svg { height: 52px; -webkit-transform: scale(0.75); transform: scale(0.75); } } .mapContainer .map-marker-active svg { -webkit-transform: scale(1.3); transform: scale(1.3); } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer .map-marker-active svg { height: 52px; -webkit-transform: scale(1); transform: scale(1); } } .mapContainer__articleInfo { padding: 0 18px; } .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-vertical a { color: #4a4a4a; display: block; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; line-height: 16px; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 20px; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; } .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title { font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: -0.21px; line-height: 30px; margin: 0.725em 0; } .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title a { color: rgba(46, 46, 46, 0.85); text-decoration: none; } @media only screen and (max-width: 600px) { .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-title { font-size: 1.7em; } } .mapContainer__articleInfo .article-author { color: #4a4a4a; display: block; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; letter-spacing: 0.1px; line-height: 35px; margin: 1.45em 0; text-decoration: none; } .location-header { font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; text-transform: uppercase; } .temperature-switcher { background: transparent; border: 0; cursor: pointer; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; font-weight: 300; white-space: nowrap; } .temperature-switcher:active { color: currentColor; } .temperature-switcher__active { font-weight: bold; } .temperature-switcher span { margin: 0 0.2ex; } .day { --w-day-font-size: 14px; --w-day-temp-font-size: 20px; --w-day-temp-font-size-big: 32px; --w-day-temp-font-weight: 600; --w-day-name-font-weight: 500; -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; color: #959595; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; font-size: var(--w-day-font-size); } .day--desktop { --w-day-temp-font-size: 24px; --w-day-temp-font-weight: normal; --w-day-name-font-weight: 600; } .day:first-of-type { color: #4b4b4b; } .day__name { font-weight: var(--w-day-name-font-weight); line-height: 1; margin-bottom: 0.75em; text-transform: uppercase; } .day__symbol-header { display: block; height: 80px; margin: 7px 0 5px; width: 98px; } .day__symbol { display: block; height: 40px; margin: 7px 0 5px; width: 50px; } .day--desktop .day__symbol { height: 60px; margin-top: 15px; width: 70px; } .day__temp { font-size: var(--w-day-temp-font-size); font-weight: var(--w-day-temp-font-weight); line-height: 1.2; margin-top: 0.75em; text-transform: lowercase; } .day__temp--header { color: #4b4b4b; font-size: 32px; font-weight: bold; } .day--mobile:first-of-type { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: row wrap; flex-flow: row wrap; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 3em; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__symbol { height: 60px; margin-right: 10px; overflow: visible; width: 80px; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__temp { font-size: var(--w-day-temp-font-size-big); font-weight: bold; margin-top: 0; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location { font-size: 120%; font-weight: 500; margin: 1em 0; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name { color: #959595; } .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location, .day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name { text-align: center; width: 100%; } .weather { --w-height: 50px; --w-wrapper-margin: 24px; --w-days-flexbasis: 33%; margin-bottom: 2rem; } .weather--desktop { --w-height: 80px; --w-wrapper-margin: 50px; --w-days-flexbasis: initial; margin-bottom: 1rem; } .weather:not(.weather--desktop) .weather__days { -ms-flex-flow: row wrap; flex-flow: row wrap; } .weather:not(.weather--desktop) .day:first-of-type { -ms-flex-preferred-size: 100%; flex-basis: 100%; width: auto; } .weather__separator { border-right: 1px solid #dcdcdc; display: block; height: var(--w-height); } .weather__days { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-preferred-size: var(--w-days-flexbasis); flex-basis: var(--w-days-flexbasis); -ms-flex-pack: space-evenly; justify-content: space-evenly; margin-top: 2.5rem; } .weather__days--desktop { margin-top: 4rem; } .weather__header { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-flow: column; flex-flow: column; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: var(--w-wrapper-margin); } .weather__header button { margin-top: 1.5rem; } .weather__header--desktop { /* position the temperature switcher on desktop */ position: relative; } .weather__header--desktop button { margin: 0; position: absolute; right: 0; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .beta-btn { background-color: #e6711b; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; height: 25px; line-height: 12px; padding: 0 7px; width: 66px; } .beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow { cursor: pointer; -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); } .beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow--expanded { -webkit-transform: rotate(-35deg); transform: rotate(-35deg); } .beta-btn__copy { color: #444; display: block; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0; line-height: 17px; margin: 16px auto; max-width: 50%; } .beta-btn__arrow { border: solid #fff; border-width: 0 2px 2px 0; display: inline-block; padding: 3px; position: relative; top: -1px; -webkit-transform: rotate(-45deg); transform: rotate(-45deg); -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .beta-btn__arrow--expanded { -webkit-transform: rotate(45deg); transform: rotate(45deg); } .image-card { position: relative; } .image-card img { -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; width: 100%; } .image-card__heading-container { color: #fff; left: 50%; position: absolute; text-align: center; top: 80px; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); } .image-card__heading-container button { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.8); border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; font-size: 0.875rem; letter-spacing: 0.183rem; outline: none; padding: 15px 32px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; } .image-card__heading-container h1 { font-size: 0.9rem; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3.6px; margin-top: 0; } .image-card__heading-container h2 { font-size: 2.1rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.25px; line-height: 42px; margin-top: 0; } .image-card__heading-container-landscape { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; left: 50%; position: absolute; text-align: center; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transform: translate(-50%, -50%); width: 90%; } .image-card__heading-container-landscape__mobile { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; } .image-card__heading-container-landscape h1 { color: #fff; font-size: 2.25rem; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: 0.95px; margin-top: 0; } .image-card__heading-container-landscape button { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.8); border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; font-size: 0.875rem; height: 60px; letter-spacing: 0.183rem; outline: none; padding: 15px 32px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; width: 260px; } .destination-header { width: 100%; } .destination-header__container { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; min-height: 380px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0 16px; position: relative; } .destination-header__image { height: 100%; overflow: hidden; position: absolute; width: 100%; } .destination-header__image img { bottom: -100%; display: block; height: 100%; left: -100%; margin: auto; min-height: 100%; min-width: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; right: -100%; top: -100%; width: 100%; } .destination-header__text { color: #fff; font-size: 28px; letter-spacing: -0.95px; line-height: 37.4px; max-width: 488px; padding: 0 20px; position: relative; text-align: center; text-transform: uppercase; width: 100%; } .destination-header__text a { color: #fff; font-weight: 300; text-decoration: none; } .destination-header__text--desktop { font-size: 36px; } .destination-header__text-container { border-bottom: solid 1px #fff; display: inline-block; line-height: 1.3; padding-bottom: 17px; } .destination-header__text-container--desktop { padding-bottom: 0.75ex; } .destination-header__link-page, .destination-header__advert { color: #fff; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0.5px; margin-top: 20px; position: relative; text-align: center; } .destination-header__link-page span, .destination-header__advert span { display: block; width: 100%; } .destination-header__link-page--desktop, .destination-header__advert--desktop { margin-top: 40px; } .destination-header__link-page { left: 14px; margin: 0; position: absolute; text-transform: uppercase; top: 20px; } .destination-header__link-page--desktop { left: 25px; top: 36px; } .destination-header__background { background-image: radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5, 36, 53, 0.37) 50%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0) 83%); height: 100%; pointer-events: none; position: absolute; top: 0; width: 100%; } .destination-header a { color: #fff; text-decoration: none; } .filter { display: inline-block; max-width: 160px; position: relative; } .filter__button { background-color: #000; border: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 16px; padding: 16px; width: 160px; } .filter__content { background-color: #000; display: none; position: absolute; width: 160px; z-index: 1; } .filter:focus .filter__content, .filter:hover .filter__content { display: block; } .filter__content--open { display: block; } .filter__content button { background-color: #000; border: 0; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: block; font-style: italic; padding: 12px 16px; text-decoration: none; width: 100%; } .filter__content button:hover { background-color: #494848; } .callout-box-card { background-color: #eaeaea; color: #4a4a4a; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left; } .callout-box-card img { height: 100%; width: 100%; } .callout-box-card__container { padding: 0.2rem 1.5rem; } .callout-box-card__container h3 { font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; letter-spacing: 3px; line-height: 16px; margin: 1rem 0; text-transform: uppercase; } .callout-box-card__container h4 { font-size: 28px; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.21px; line-height: 35px; } .callout-box-card__container .body { font-size: 16px; font-weight: lighter; letter-spacing: -0.12px; line-height: 31px; } .callout-box-card__container .body a { color: #4a4a4a; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .see-more-button { border-bottom: 1px solid #979797; text-align: center; } .see-more-button-inner { background-color: transparent; border: 0; color: #6c6c6c; cursor: pointer; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 2.92px; line-height: 19px; margin-bottom: 13px; position: relative; text-transform: uppercase; } .see-more-button-inner--light { color: #b4b4b4; } .see-more-button-inner__arrow { color: #6c6c6c; font-size: 10px; position: absolute; right: 9px; top: 2px; } .see-more-button-inner__arrow--light { color: #b4b4b4; } .see-more-button-inner__text { margin-right: 24px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .load-more-button { -webkit-box-sizing: border-box; box-sizing: border-box; } .load-more-button__refresh.gelicon--refresh { margin-right: 16px; -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } .load-more-button__downarrow { color: #adadad; font-size: 22px; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; } .load-more-button__loading .load-more-button__refresh.gelicon--refresh { -webkit-animation: spin 2s linear infinite; animation: spin 2s linear infinite; } .load-more-button__downarrow:first-of-type { padding-right: 16px; } .load-more-button__downarrow:not(:first-of-type) { padding-left: 16px; } @-webkit-keyframes spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } 100% { -webkit-transform: rotate(-270deg); transform: rotate(-270deg); } } @keyframes spin { 0% { -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } 100% { -webkit-transform: rotate(-270deg); transform: rotate(-270deg); } } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .basic-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #fff; border: 1px solid #adadad; border-radius: 4px; -webkit-box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 0 #fff, 0 2px 0 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.08); box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 0 #fff, 0 2px 0 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.08); color: #193e6d; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 20px; height: 54px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; min-width: 222px; text-align: center; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; } .basic-button--worklife { color: #0052a1; } .basic-button--future { color: #002856; } .basic-button--culture { color: #472479; } .basic-button--earth { color: #0fbb56; } .basic-button--travel { color: #589e50; } .basic-button__text { color: #444; font-family: 'BBC Reith Sans Cd'; font-size: 18px; line-height: 24px; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; } .basic-button__text--white { color: #fff; } .basic-button__text--curious { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; } .basic-button__text--worklife { color: #0052a1; } .basic-button__text--future { color: #002856; } .basic-button__text--culture { color: #472479; } .basic-button__text--earth { color: #0fbb56; } .basic-button__text--travel { color: #589e50; } .basic-button::before { padding-right: 16px; } .basic-button:hover { background-color: #dedede; } .basic-button--background-light-blue:hover { background-color: #dfe8ff; } .basic-button--background-worklife { background-color: #0052a1; } .basic-button--background-future { background-color: #002856; } .basic-button--background-culture { background-color: #472479; } .basic-button--background-earth { background-color: #0fbb56; } .basic-button--background-travel { background-color: #589e50; } .basic-button--background-worklife:hover { background-color: #4494e4; } .basic-button--background-future:hover { background-color: #ffc857; } .basic-button--background-culture:hover { background-color: #472479; } .basic-button--background-earth:hover { background-color: #002856; } .basic-button--background-travel:hover { background-color: #002856; } .basic-button__text--bold { font-weight: bold; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .read-more-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-direction: column; flex-direction: column; font-weight: bold; position: relative; width: 224px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .AdFrame { display: -ms-inline-flexbox; display: inline-flex; } .AdFrame--default { background-color: #f6f6f6; } .AdFrame--dark-grey { background-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.8); } .AdFrame--centre-aligned { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .text-with-styled-background { height: inherit; position: relative; width: 100%; } .text-with-styled-background--collection { display: inline-block; width: unset; } .text-with-styled-background--center-align { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .text-with-styled-background__text { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; color: #444; display: block; font-size: 20px; line-height: 24px; padding: 0 0 0 10px; position: relative; } .text-with-styled-background__text--large { font-size: 26px; line-height: 30px; padding: 0 0 0 24px; } .text-with-styled-background__text--medium { font-size: 22px; line-height: 28px; } .text-with-styled-background__text--remove-padding { padding: 0; width: 100%; } .text-with-styled-background__text--largest { font-size: 38px; line-height: 47px; } .text-with-styled-background__text--worklife { color: #0052a1; } .text-with-styled-background__text--future { color: #002856; } .text-with-styled-background__text--culture { color: #472479; } .text-with-styled-background__text--earth { color: #0fbb56; } .text-with-styled-background__text--travel { color: #589e50; } .text-with-styled-background__text--blue { color: #0052a1; } .text-with-styled-background__text--collection { font-size: 28px; line-height: 34px; padding: 0; } .text-with-styled-background__text--collection--medium { font-size: 32px; line-height: 38px; } .text-with-styled-background__text--collection--large { font-size: 38px; line-height: 47px; } .text-with-styled-background__line-container { bottom: 0; margin-left: 13px; position: absolute; width: calc(100% - 26px); } .text-with-styled-background__line { background-color: rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.05); height: 26px; max-width: 240px; position: relative; } .text-with-styled-background__line--large { bottom: -10px; height: 42px; max-width: 340px; } .text-with-styled-background__line--narrow { height: 26px; max-width: 100%; } .text-with-styled-background__line--medium { bottom: -10px; height: 36px; max-width: 340px; } .text-with-styled-background__line--largest { max-width: 100%; } .text-with-styled-background__line-container--collection { width: calc(100% + 26px); } .text-with-styled-background__line-container--no-margin { margin: 0; } .text-with-styled-background__line--collection { height: 26px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .previous-media-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #000; border: 0; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 16px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; outline: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; } .previous-media-button__icon--white svg { fill: #fff; } .previous-media-button span { height: 18px; width: 16px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .simple-header { color: #444; font-size: 18px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 24px; margin: 0; } .simple-header--large { font-size: 28px; line-height: 34px; } .simple-header--simple { font-size: 18px; line-height: 22px; } .simple-header--small { font-size: 18px; letter-spacing: -0.5px; line-height: 28px; } .simple-header--smallest { font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; line-height: 24px; } .simple-header--medium { font-size: 24px; line-height: 28px; } .simple-header--regular { font-size: 22px; line-height: 28px; } .simple-header--condensed-bold { font-stretch: condensed; } .simple-header--condensed-bold.simple-header--large { line-height: 37px; } .simple-header--condensed-bold.simple-header--regular { line-height: 28px; } .simple-header--white { color: #fff; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .play-button__inline-audio, .play-button__inline-video { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #000; border: 0; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 16px; height: 49px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; outline: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 49px; } .play-button__inline-audio .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video .gelicon--play { color: #ececec; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; } .play-button__inline-audio--worklife .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--worklife .gelicon--play { color: #8beed9; } .play-button__inline-audio--travel .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--travel .gelicon--play { color: #002856; } .play-button__inline-audio--future .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--future .gelicon--play { color: #ffc857; } .play-button__inline-audio--culture .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--culture .gelicon--play { color: #472479; } .play-button__inline-audio--earth .gelicon--play, .play-button__inline-video--earth .gelicon--play { color: #002856; } .play-button__inline-video:hover { background-color: #ececec; } .play-button__inline-video:hover .gelicon--play { color: #000; } .play-button__inline-audio { color: #fff; font-size: 22px; height: 50px; padding: 0; width: 50px; } .play-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); border: 2px solid #5ae9cb; border-radius: 50%; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); box-shadow: 0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 22px; height: 80px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; outline: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 80px; } .play-button:hover { color: #5ae9cb; } .play-button--white { border: 4px solid #fff; } .play-button--white:hover { color: #fff; } .play-button--white .gelicon--play { color: inherit; } .play-button--worklife { border: 2px solid #8beed9; } .play-button--worklife:hover { color: #8beed9; } .play-button--travel { border: 2px solid #002856; } .play-button--travel:hover { color: #002856; } .play-button--future { border: 2px solid #ffc857; } .play-button--future:hover { color: #ffc857; } .play-button--culture { border: 2px solid #472479; } .play-button--culture:hover { color: #472479; } .play-button--earth { border: 2px solid #002856; } .play-button--earth:hover { color: #002856; } .play-button--desktop { font-size: 30px; height: 76px; width: 76px; } .play-button--background-hover:hover { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6); } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .error-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #000; border: 0; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 22px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; outline: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; } .error-button .gelicon--alert { color: #ececec; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .simple-p-tag { color: #444; font-size: 18px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 24px; margin: 0; } .simple-p-tag--large { font-size: 28px; line-height: 34px; } .simple-p-tag--medium { font-size: 27px; letter-spacing: -1.69px; line-height: 32px; } .simple-p-tag--quote { color: #575757; } .simple-header--serif-light-italic { font-style: italic; line-height: inherit; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .text-summary__text { font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; margin: 0; text-align: left; } .text-summary__text--blue { color: #193e6d; } .text-summary__text--black { color: #000; } .text-summary__text--grey { color: #6a6a6a; } .text-summary__text--dark-grey { color: #444; } .text-summary__text--left { text-align: left; } .text-summary__text--right { text-align: right; } .screen-reader-only { border: 0; clip: rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px); -webkit-clip-path: inset(50%); clip-path: inset(50%); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0; position: absolute !important; width: 1px; word-wrap: normal !important; } .inline-html { display: block; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .drop-capped { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; border: 2px solid #444; color: #444; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; float: left; font-size: 58px; font-weight: bold; height: 84px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; margin: 8px 10px 4px 0; text-transform: uppercase; width: 84px; } .drop-capped--worklife { border-color: #8beed9; } .drop-capped--future { border-color: #ffc857; } .drop-capped--culture { border-color: #444; } .drop-capped--earth { border-color: #002856; } .drop-capped--travel { border-color: #002856; } .drop-capped--desktop { margin-right: 24px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .close-nav { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: unset; border: unset; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; position: relative; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .close-nav__icon { color: #fff; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 20px; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .close-nav:hover .close-nav__icon { color: #cecece; -webkit-transform: rotate(90deg); transform: rotate(90deg); } .close-nav__label { display: inline-block; margin-right: 12px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-label { color: #4e4e4e; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22px; margin: auto; max-width: 1280px; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .nav-label:hover { color: #8e8e8e; } .nav-label--menu { color: #ebebeb; } .nav-label--menu:hover { color: #cecece; } .nav-label--white { color: #fff; } .nav-label--curiousSans { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-links__link { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; padding-right: 24px; position: relative; text-decoration: none; white-space: nowrap; } .nav-links__link--active p { border-bottom: 2px solid #002856; font-weight: bold; } .nav-links__link--active--menu p { border-bottom: unset; } .nav-links__link--active--worklife p { border-bottom: 2px solid #0052a1; } .nav-links__link--active--culture p { border-bottom: 2px solid #472479; } .nav-links__link--active--earth p { border-bottom: 2px solid #0fbb56; } .nav-links__link--active--travel p { border-bottom: 2px solid #589e50; } .nav-links__icon { background-color: #0052a1; bottom: 10px; height: 2px; position: absolute; width: 80px; } .nav-links__link--menu { display: block; padding-right: unset; } .nav-links__icon--menu { display: none; } .nav-links__icon--menu-tablet { width: 60px; } .nav-links__icon--worklife { background-color: #0052a1; } .nav-links__icon--future { background-color: #002856; } .nav-links__icon--culture { background-color: #472479; } .nav-links__icon--earth { background-color: #0fbb56; } .nav-links__icon--travel { background-color: #589e50; } .nav-links__link--menu p { font-size: 26px; padding: 0 0 32px 24px; } .nav-links__link--menu-desktop p { font-size: 32px; line-height: 42px; padding: 0 0 44px 100px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .burger-nav { background: transparent; border: 0; color: #0052a1; cursor: pointer; font-size: 20px; outline: none; padding: 0; } .burger-nav--worklife { color: #0052a1; } .burger-nav--future { color: #002856; } .burger-nav--culture { color: #472479; } .burger-nav--earth { color: #0fbb56; } .burger-nav--travel { color: #589e50; } .burger-nav--medium { font-size: 16px; } .burger-nav--small { font-size: 12px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-menu { background-color: #0052a1; display: block; height: 100%; left: 0; min-height: 100vh; opacity: 0.98; overflow: auto; position: fixed; top: 0; width: 100vw; } .nav-menu--worklife { background-color: #0052a1; } .nav-menu--future { background-color: #002856; } .nav-menu--culture { background-color: #472479; } .nav-menu--earth { background-color: #0fbb56; } .nav-menu--travel { background-color: #589e50; } .nav-menu__close-nav { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; margin: auto; max-width: 1280px; padding: 16px 8px 60px; } .nav-menu__close-nav--desktop { padding: 20px 16px 70px; } .nav-menu__sponsored { background-color: rgba(34, 34, 34, 0.5); height: 100%; margin-bottom: 32px; } .nav-menu__sponsored--desktop { margin-bottom: 44px; } .nav-menu__sponsored-container { padding: 20px 16px 16px 24px; } .nav-menu__sponsored--desktop-container { margin: auto; max-width: 1264px; padding: 20px 16px 20px 100px; } .nav-menu__follow-us { padding: 52px 0 34px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .ad-slot { display: inline-block; } .ad-slot__container { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .ad-slot__label { max-width: 120px; min-width: 112px; padding-right: 8px; text-align: right; } .ad-slot--leaderboard { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; } .ad-slot__label--mpu, .ad-slot__label--leaderboard { margin-bottom: 8px; max-width: unset; padding-right: unset; text-align: right; } .ad-slot__container--mpu, .ad-slot__container--leaderboard { display: inline-block; -ms-flex-wrap: unset; flex-wrap: unset; } .ad-slot__fake--sponsor { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 31px; min-width: 88px; } .ad-slot__fake--mpu { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 250px; min-width: 300px; } .ad-slot__fake--mpu-large { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 600px; min-width: 300px; } .ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-large { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 90px; min-width: 728px; } .ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-medium { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 50px; min-width: 320px; } .ad-slot__fake--leaderboard-small { background-color: #5ae9cb; height: 50px; min-width: 300px; } .ad-slot__label--dark { color: #dcdcdc; } .ad-slot--dark { background-color: #f6f6f6; padding: 8px; } .ad-slot--black { background-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.8); padding: 8px; } .open-nav { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: unset; border: unset; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-pack: end; justify-content: flex-end; padding: 0; position: relative; -webkit-transition: 0.4s; transition: 0.4s; } .open-nav__icon { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .open-nav__label { display: inline-block; margin-right: 12px; } .play-icon { background: transparent; border: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 12px; outline: none; padding: 0; } .play-icon--red { color: #f00; } .play-icon--grey { color: #999; } .play-icon--medium { font-size: 16px; } .play-icon--large { font-size: 20px; } .camera-icon { background: transparent; border: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 12px; outline: none; padding: 0; } .camera-icon--red { color: #f00; } .camera-icon--grey { color: #999; } .camera-icon--medium { font-size: 16px; } .camera-icon--large { font-size: 20px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .nav-build-bar { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: auto; margin: auto; max-width: 1280px; width: 100%; } .nav-build-bar--mobile { height: auto; -ms-flex-pack: justify; justify-content: space-between; } .nav-build-bar--mobile .nav-build-bar__title-content { white-space: pre-wrap; } .nav-build-bar--tablet { height: 58px; } .nav-build-bar--desktop { height: 60px; } .nav-build-bar__links { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; -ms-flex-wrap: wrap; flex-wrap: wrap; height: 100%; -ms-flex-pack: end; justify-content: flex-end; margin-left: auto; overflow: hidden; } .nav-build-bar__sponsored-brand { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; margin-left: 8px; text-decoration: none; white-space: nowrap; } .nav-build-bar__sponsored-brand--no-brand { margin-left: 0; } .nav-build-bar__branding { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding: 0 8px 0 0; } .nav-build-bar__branding--tablet { padding: 0 30px 0 0; } .nav-build-bar__branding--desktop { padding: 0 80px 0 0; } .nav-build-bar__title-content { border: 1.78px solid; color: #444; font-size: 22px; font-weight: bold; margin: unset; padding: 8px; width: -webkit-fit-content; width: -moz-fit-content; width: fit-content; } .nav-build-bar__title-content--tablet { font-size: 24px; white-space: nowrap; } .nav-build-bar__title-content--desktop { font-size: 28px; } .nav-build-bar__open-nav { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 48px; } .nav-build-bar__open-nav-button { display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; padding-left: 8px; } .nav-build-bar__sponsored { background-color: #f6f6f6; border: 1px solid #d3d3d3; height: 48px; padding: 0 16px; } .nav-build-bar__open-nav--desktop { padding-right: 16px; } .nav-build-bar__open-nav--mobile { -ms-flex-pack: end; justify-content: flex-end; max-width: 100px; width: 100%; } .info-icon { background: transparent; border: 0; color: #fff; font-size: 12px; outline: none; padding: 0; } .info-icon--red { color: #f00; } .info-icon--grey { color: #999; } .info-icon--medium { font-size: 16px; } .info-icon--large { font-size: 20px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .styled-dot { background-color: #5ae9cb; border-radius: 50%; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 1px 2px 0 rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.5); box-shadow: 0 1px 2px 0 rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.5); cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; height: 6px; width: 6px; } .styled-dot--no-cursor { cursor: unset; } .styled-dot--medium { -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; height: 10px; width: 10px; } .styled-dot--dark-blue { background-color: #193e6d; } .styled-dot--purple { background-color: #362e67; -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; } .styled-dot--black { background-color: #000; -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; } .styled-dot--grey-green { background-color: #008e9b; -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; } .styled-dot--dark-green { background-color: #589e50; -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; } .styled-dot--worklife { background-color: #8beed9; } .styled-dot--future { background-color: #ffc857; } .styled-dot--culture { background-color: #472479; } .styled-dot--earth { background-color: #002856; } .styled-dot--travel { background-color: #002856; } .styled-dot--worklife-prime { background-color: #0052a1; } .styled-dot--future-prime { background-color: #002856; } .styled-dot--culture-prime { background-color: #472479; } .styled-dot--earth-prime { background-color: #0fbb56; } .styled-dot--travel-prime { background-color: #589e50; } .styled-dot--large { -webkit-box-shadow: 0 1px 1px 0 rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.5); box-shadow: 0 1px 1px 0 rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.5); height: 16px; width: 16px; } .styled-dot--small { -webkit-box-shadow: unset; box-shadow: unset; height: 8px; width: 8px; } .styled-dot--grey { background-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .email-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 11px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .email-icon:hover { background-color: #000; } .email-icon--red:hover { background-color: #f00; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .facebook-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 15px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .facebook-icon:hover { background-color: #3b5998; } .facebook-icon--blue { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #3b5998; color: #3b5998; } .facebook-icon--blue:hover { background-color: #3b5998; color: #fff; } .facebook-icon--white { background-color: transparent; border: 1px solid #fff; color: #fff; } .facebook-icon--white:hover { background-color: #fff; color: #3b5998; } .facebook-icon--small { font-size: 20px; height: 38px; width: 38px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .hero-header { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; } .hero-header__header { font-family: 'CuriousSansBold'; color: #fff; font-size: 38px; line-height: 40px; margin: 0; text-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(25, 62, 109, 0.7); } .hero-header__header--large { font-size: 44px; line-height: 48px; } .hero-header__header--medium { font-size: 38px; line-height: 47px; } .hero-header__header--small { font-size: 28px; line-height: 34px; } .hero-header__header--black { color: #000; text-shadow: unset; } .hero-header__header--grey { color: #adadad; text-shadow: unset; } .ticked-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #13de99; border-radius: 50%; -webkit-box-shadow: 0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); box-shadow: 0 2px 4px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2); display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .ticked-icon--small { font-size: 12px; height: 38px; width: 38px; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .google-plus-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 26px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .google-plus-icon:hover { background-color: #d34836; } .google-plus-icon--red:hover { background-color: #f00; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .reddit-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 26px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .reddit-icon:hover { background-color: #ff4500; } .reddit-icon__hide { display: none; } .reddit-icon--red:hover { background-color: #f00; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .linkedin-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 13px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .linkedin-icon:hover { background-color: #0077b5; } .linkedin-icon--red:hover { background-color: #f00; } .share-button { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #fff; border: 1px solid #e4e4e4; color: #444; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; letter-spacing: 3px; padding: 18px 16px; text-transform: uppercase; -webkit-transition: 0.6s; transition: 0.6s; width: 110px; z-index: 55; } .share-button .gelicon--share { margin-right: 10px; -webkit-transition: 0.3s ease-in; transition: 0.3s ease-in; } .share-button:hover .gelicon--share, .share-button .gelicon--share-sharing { -webkit-transform: rotate(-180deg); transform: rotate(-180deg); } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .whatsapp-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 13px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .whatsapp-icon:hover { background-color: #25d366; } .whatsapp-icon--red:hover { background-color: #f00; } /* stylelint-disable property-no-unknown */ .twitter-icon { -ms-flex-align: center; align-items: center; background-color: #193e6d; border-radius: 50%; color: #fff; cursor: pointer; display: -ms-flexbox; display: flex; font-size: 13px; height: 50px; -ms-flex-pack: center; justify-content: center; text-decoration: none; -webkit-transition-duration: 0.6s; transition-duration: 0.6s; width: 50px; z-index: 55; } .twitter-icon:hover { background-color: #1da1f2; } 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data-bbc-container="article-hero" data-bbc-title="Europe's failed socialist utopia" data-bbc-metadata="{"APP":"article-hero","CHD":"card::1"}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="article-hero b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300 article-hero--gradient article-hero--small-mobile article-hero--small-tablet article-hero--desktop article-hero--large-desktop"><div class="article-hero__content"><div class="article-hero__content-labels"><div class="article-labels b-reith-sans-font b-font-weight-300"><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" href="/web/20220113212149/https://www.bbc.com/travel/columns/adventure-experience"><span>Adventure & Experience</span><span class="article-labels__delimiter b-font-weight-300"> | </span></a><a class="article-labels__text b-reith-sans-font" target="" rel="" id="" 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Taipei","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0b9258j","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0b9258j.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135648},"p0b925gz":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0b925gz","_id":"61b25e1145ceed160060a098","copyright":"Chou Yeh-Cheng","fileSizeBytes":2134481,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fb9\u002F25\u002Fp0b925gz.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Chou Yeh-Cheng)","synopsisMedium":"Taiwan is setting up federally funded hiking education centres across the country (Credit: Chou Yeh-Cheng)","synopsisShort":"Chou pictured after hiking through the Taiwanese mountains","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0b925gz.jpg","title":"Taiwan is setting up federally funded hiking education centres across the country","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0b925gz","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0b925gz.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135648},"p0b925x0":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0b925x0","_id":"61b25e1045ceed32397d71f4","copyright":"CJFAN\u002FGetty 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Taiwan","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0b925x0","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0b925x0.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135648},"p0b926fd":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0b926fd","_id":"61b25e1345ceed32397d71f9","copyright":"toonman\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":2978121,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1081,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fb9\u002F26\u002Fp0b926fd.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: toonman\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"Chou says he's walked more than 10,000km in Taiwan (Credit: toonman\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Terraced fields in the Taiwanese mountains with a lake in the background","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0b926fd.jpg","title":"Chou says he's walked more than 10,000km in Taiwan","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0b926fd","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0b926fd.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135648},"p0b926m6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0b926m6","_id":"61b25e1045ceed32397d71f5","copyright":"Jim Lin\u002FGetty 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(Credit: Jim Lin\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"A mountain peak in Taiwan","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0b926m6.jpg","title":"Can Taiwan become Asia's next great hiking destination?","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0b926m6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0b926m6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135648},"p09pldr6":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09pldr6","_id":"6183c17145ceed7466640e0f","copyright":"hadynyah\u002FGetty 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India","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","title":"GettyImages-1201530843-crop.jpg","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09pldr6","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09pldr6.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135649},"p09dxbd3":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09dxbd3","_id":"6183c16445ceed687d6eef46","copyright":"SolStock\u002FGetty 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countryside","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09dxbd3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09dxbd3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135649},"p09gvtjv":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09gvtjv","_id":"6183c11d45ceed4a347586fa","copyright":"Julian Dewert\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":2561182,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1080,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002F9g\u002Fvt\u002Fp09gvtjv.jpg","sourceWidth":1920,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Julian Dewert\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Julian Dewert\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Remote house and jetty with a boat in the Highlands of Scotland","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09gvtjv.jpg","title":"Remote house and jetty with a boat in the Highlands of Scotland","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p09gvtjv","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp09gvtjv.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135649}},"articles":{"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east","_id":"6183c23b45ceed4e685d51df","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Despite its past hardships, Poland’s capital city continues to rise from the ashes – and its once-famous elegance can still be found by those who look beyond the surface.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnce known as ‘The Paris of the East’ for its Baroque beauty, Warsaw saw more than 85% of its buildings destroyed amid the ravages of World War II. Despite its past hardships, Poland’s capital city continues to rise from the ashes – and its once-famous elegance can still be found by those who look beyond the surface.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Poland’s capital city continues to rise from the ashes","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“A wise man once told me: when you look around Warsaw, ask yourself: ‘Is that an ugly building, or a dirty building?’” said Nate Espino, a partner at PR agency \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Faldgate.pl\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAldgate Strategy Group\u003C\u002Fa\u003E who first moved here from San Francisco 20 years ago. “That has transformed my perception, and in the past two to three years some of the grotty old buildings have been sandblasted and are now gleaming.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180115-why-beijing-is-the-best-city-for-enterprising-expats\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA 3,000-year-old city that runs on AI\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171107-the-polish-phrase-that-will-help-you-through-tough-times\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Poland will never have hygge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171204-the-european-city-that-loves-strangers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe European city that loves strangers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor many Warsaw residents, the city’s true appeal doesn’t lie in exteriors at all, but in its energetic inner life. “When I was moving to Warsaw, I wasn’t sure how I would find myself in a new home,” said Karolina Lyzwa, an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.intrepidtravel.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIntrepid Travel Urban Adventures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E tour leader who moved from Łódź in central Poland. “Everything became simple after a sunny, summer season when I spent a lot of time on my bike, observing the vibrant life from the little cafes, relaxing on the Wisla [Vistula] riverbank, and reading about both the harsh and flourishing times of this astonishing city.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELong-term residents agree that Warsaw is a city where a little exploring – and a lot of patience – pays off.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhy do people love it?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPoland’s capital is full of surprises in unexpected places. “I discovered a skiing station in the middle of the city, a tropical beach on the Vistula River and a deer freely living in the Łazienki Park,” said French-Russian Sasha Naslin, who moved here from Belgium three years ago and blogs at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thealternativetravelguide.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Alternative Travel Guide\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “I was lucky to see him only the once!”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESplit by the Vistula River, the city doesn’t have a specific city centre but rather two sides with differing personalities. “The west bank is full of glam, bustling with a lively nightlife scene, while the east bank has been rediscovered by artists, offering an authentic atmosphere with attractions off the beaten track,” Lyzwa said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENaslin loves exploring the Bohemian Praga districts on the eastside riverbank, with its alternative bars, theatres and street art.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Warsaw pulses with an energy that comes from its constant state of reinvention","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EResidents especially appreciate the ‘human-sized’ city, which makes it manageable and approachable for newcomers. “Each [of the 18] districts has a local fresh food market, a park with plenty of activities in the summertime, local bars and places to discover new artists,” Lyzwa said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWarsaw pulses with an energy that comes from its constant state of reinvention and the physical rebuilding that is still ongoing in the city. “Kraków has bars that have been bars since the 15th Century, while Warsaw has seen whole nightlife districts come and go over the past decade,” Espino said. That dynamism mixed with a chip-on-the shoulder rivalry with neighbouring, more traditionally ‘tourist-friendly’ cities (Prague in particular) creates a unique energy that Espino compares to Beijing, “just on a manageable scale”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhat’s it like living there?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe first thing new residents need to learn is how get around on the chaotic streets. “Life is fast in Warsaw. You have to learn how to drive like nowhere else in Poland,” Lyzwa said. “You have to be dynamic, using all opportunities to squeeze in and making fast decisions while changing lanes.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor those who want to skip the chaos, the relatively new Metro offers a respite. “Traffic sucks, so I stick to the Metro, which is still in its infancy but pretty good, and I avoid rush hour,” Espino said. Public transportation is quite affordable, costing 69% less than in London according to price-compare site \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expatistan.com\u002Fcost-of-living\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EExpatistan.com\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, residents rave about how much more affordable the city is compared to other European capitals, with housing costing around 60% less and food costing half what it would in London or Paris.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhat else do I need to know?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENew expats should start their tenure here in spring or summer, according to locals. “The winters are grey and the days are short, both which are worse than the cold,” Espino said. Moving in the nicer, sunnier months can make that first adjustment a bit easier.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBeing happy in Warsaw depends on making local friends, and accessible online and offline social groups and activities facilitate these connections. “Join a group, a running club, rowing club, drinking club, whatever,” Espino advised. One place to start is a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Featpolska.com\u002Fvodkatour\u002Fwarsaw\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evodka tasting tour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpubcrawlwarsaw.weebly.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Pub Crawl Warsaw\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. With records showing the spirit originating in Poland as far back as the 8th Century, vodka has its own cultural importance here. Learning how to drink it correctly – with others, and straight up, not as part of a cocktail – can be the first step in fitting in with the locals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany people speak fluent English in Warsaw, so it’s easy to get around as a new Anglophone expat, but residents stress the importance of learning Polish to truly engage with Varsovians\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe name for Warsaw locals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The spirit of the city hides in stories","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Poles are different people in English than they are in Polish,” said Espino. “They are much more reserved in English, since it's a language they use for business, and can't be bothered to socialise in it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut making that investment is worth it to uncover the history and energy within Warsaw. “The spirit of the city hides in stories,” Lyzwa said. “So make friends with Varsovians and let them take you where they like to go.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-03-05T18:10:08Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The secrets hiding in Warsaw, the Paris of the East","headlineShort":"Europe’s city of unexpected surprises","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Despite its past hardships, Poland’s capital city continues to rise from the ashes – and its once-famous elegance can still be found by those who look beyond the surface.","summaryShort":"To find this city’s once-famous elegance, you need to look beyond the surface","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2018-03-04T20:00:19.76408Z","entity":"article","guid":"5b1d2350-e6cc-4013-b4d3-d9f053da3b83","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T23:57:15.324798Z","project":"travel","slug":"20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135633},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom","_id":"6183c24345ceed4eb86c9845","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Gate Two is no ordinary gate; in fact it might be the most significant gate in modern European history.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the old dockland area of Gdańsk, Poland, a fair walk from the attractive tourist hub of the Main Town, stands a striking, rust-brown building.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis is the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ecs.gda.pl\u002F\"\u003EEuropean Solidarity Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (ESC), opened in 2014. Its massive bulk and ochre-coloured panels give a hint of the former function of this location, as if a giant vessel has come aground in this former shipyard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhat really caught my eye, however, is the older structure next to it: a sturdy set of metal gates attached to a blue guardhouse, with the words Stocznia Gdańska (Gdańsk Shipyard) in huge block letters above.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis is no ordinary gate – in fact it might be the most significant one in modern European history. For this is Gate Two of what was once the Lenin Shipyard. It was near here that electrician Lech Wałęsa scaled the wall on 14 August 1980 to organise a strike by workers against Poland’s then-communist government.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Lech Wałęsa was an iconic figure who mobilized 10 million Poles","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“This is where the most important events took place,” said Dr Jacek Kołtan, deputy director for research at the ESC. “Wałęsa appeared here to talk to the people, then the strikers waited two long weeks here, before finding a solution in talks between Solidarity and the government.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESolidarity was the independent trade union formed by the workers, and its initial push for a wage raise evolved into wider demands for free trade unions, freedom of speech and the release of political prisoners.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We had the tremendous luck to have Wałęsa,” Dr Kołtan continued. “He was a simple electrician but at the same time someone with huge political skills and great political intuition, and someone who represented everything crucial to the strikers. So he was an iconic figure, and a leader who led to the mobilisation of 10 million Poles.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter negotiations faltered, strikes spread across Poland and the government was forced to cave in. It wasn’t yet evident – a decade of repression, including the imposition of martial law, was to follow – but the regime had signed its death warrant and that of European communism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter free elections in 1989, Poland effectively left the communist bloc. Soon after, the Berlin Wall fell, to be followed by communist regimes across the continent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis dramatic story is told within the walls of the ESC. Over two floors, its permanent exhibition charts the rise of Solidarity, the 1981 imposition of martial law and the eventual downfall of communism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A tiled shop interior with empty shelves depicts the shortages that sparked unrest","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere’s a lot of captioned text to take in as the complex account unfolds, but also impressive exhibits that give a sense of the struggle and the lives at stake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEvocations of the past include a replica of a communist-era sitting room, a dull affair of wood-panelled furniture, plastic flowers and a boxy television set. A tiled shop interior with empty shelves depicts the shortages that sparked unrest, and riot shields of the Milicja (Poland’s communist-era police force) relay the often-brutal methods by which the government sought to maintain control.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHope is present too, in the hand-operated printers that turned out anti-government leaflets; and in a replica of the circular table at which the regime finally agreed to surrender its monopoly on power. At the very end of the exhibition, a wall spells out the Solidarity logo composed of small red-and-white pieces of card onto which visitors have written messages.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s all very moving and I felt swept along by the drama of that decade as I walked through the exhibition, sensing the tension of the battle for freedom. In fact, Dr Kołtan hopes that visitors to the ESC feel a link between that struggle and their own lives in the 21st Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There’s the history of Solidarity and other opposition movements in Poland on one hand, but we also try to universalise this experience as a part of the history of freedom,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“In one of the last rooms of the permanent exhibition, we show the fall of communism in Central and Eastern Europe. But in the very last room we depict heroes of the 20th Century from around the world, including Mahatma Ghandi, Martin Luther King Junior, Pope John Paul II, Aung San Suu Kyi, the Dalai Lama.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“With our visitors we’re trying to discover the meaning of Solidarity, but also the meaning of non-violent philosophy and how important it still is today. That’s the message that comes from the permanent exhibition.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStepping out of the centre’s lofty, plant-filled lobby with its cafe and gift shop, it’s easy to assume the working shipyard has vanished into the past. But the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gdanskshipyard.pl\u002F\"\u003EGdańsk Shipyard\u003C\u002Fa\u003E still exists nearby as a functional facility, though shrunken from its original footprint.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s ironic that the economic reforms that followed the toppling of communism led to the shrinking of the shipyard. Its 1980 workforce of 20,000 employees has diminished to less than 10% of that number, as the now privately-owned business has struggled to find a sure footing in free-market Poland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, life goes on. In addition to the ESC, plans have been drawn up to convert much of the shipyard area to a proposed ‘Young City’, a new district of offices, shops and apartments. If completed, it would be a far cry from the heavy maritime industry that has characterised this neighbourhood since the first major shipyards were built here when Gdańsk was19th-Century German Danzig.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Gdańsk Shipyard was the epicentre of a struggle that redefined Europe","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor a decade, the Gdańsk Shipyard was the epicentre of a struggle that redefined Europe. Then it lived through a transitional period of both economic struggle and fame, the latter symbolised by concerts held here by French electronic music composer Jean Michel Jarre and Pink Floyd guitarist David Gilmour. Now the site is about to undergo a further transformation, it seems. But Gate Two will remain, attached to the European Solidarity Centre, and its impact will not be forgotten.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDr Kołtan agrees. “The birth of Solidarity in August 1980 was the moment that changed everything in Polish history – but also in Europe. It had a huge impact on the world.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-changed-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Changed the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series looking into how a destination has made a significant impact on the entire planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin over three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-08-07T20:20:22Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"What can Poland teach us about freedom?","headlineShort":"The shipyard that changed humanity","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Gate Two is no ordinary gate; in fact it might be the most significant gate in modern European history.","summaryShort":"It was the epicentre of a struggle that redefined Europe","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2017-08-06T19:34:08.471719Z","entity":"article","guid":"cbe6ad27-6d0b-4f9d-82fc-2f29ffb398e8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T23:48:14.868906Z","project":"travel","slug":"20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135634},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules","_id":"6183c24e45ceed4f2e60ba21","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Warsaw has had a long and tumultuous history, which meant that its inhabitants had to come up with ingenious ways to survive.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen the Nazis started closing in on my Jewish grandfather during World War Two, he made a fateful decision: he fled from Ukraine to Warsaw, where no-one knew him and it would be easier for him to disappear. When he arrived in the Polish capital, the first thing he saw was a woman selling bread at Central Station, right under a poster threatening death for doing so.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn his memoir, One Chance in a Thousand, he noted that while Ukrainians followed orders without questioning them, people in Warsaw seemed to ignore them. For him, this juxtaposition was an example of the city’s amazing ability to hustle – that is, to get things done in half-legal or not completely honest ways. In fact, Polish people – and Varsovians (residents of Warsaw) especially – are not so keen on rules and regulations, and the Polish language has several words to describe this trait.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Warsaw hustler is known as the biggest hustler of them all","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECwaniak\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means “hustler”, is a favourite way to refer to someone who is always trying to outsmart the system. There’s also \u003Cem\u003Ekombinować\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (to scheme or to plot); \u003Cem\u003Ecwaniakować\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (which refers to someone being cunning); and \u003Cem\u003Ezałatwić\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (which can be translated as “getting things done”, usually by using connections, charm or illegal means).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd although the ability to beat the system, to get things done, is held in high esteem throughout the country, as a 1963 Polish song by Stanisław Grzesiuk says, the Warsaw hustler is known as the biggest hustler of them all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile this might seem like an odd accolade, it was once a celebrated – and necessary – trait.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The word ‘cwaniak’ used to have a positive meaning,” explained Martyna Goździuk, a Warsaw guide and president of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fgwara-warszawska.waw.pl\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFoundation Gwara Warszawska\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Warsaw Dialect Foundation). “It was used to describe someone who can deal with life’s challenges.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secrets hiding in Warsaw\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171107-the-polish-phrase-that-will-help-you-through-tough-times\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Poland will never have hygge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat can Poland teach us about freedom?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd given the city’s tumultuous history, its inhabitants had to come up with ways to survive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 1944, the people of Warsaw started an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp023fdwh\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Euprising against the Nazis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. While some claim that the Warsaw Uprising was doomed from the start, many see it as proof that Varsovians won’t wait and see what happens but prefer to take matters into their own hands, whatever the consequences. Sadly, the uprising failed and resulted in hundreds of thousands of deaths, many of them civilian. Yet the Warsaw Uprising is still commemorated every year on 1 August to honour the courage, spirit and sacrifice of the people who took part.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut even before the uprising, Warsaw (and Poland in general) had a strong resistance movement during World War Two. The Kotwica is the most famous symbol of the Warsaw Uprising; it’s actually an amalgam of the letters P and W, which means “Polska Walcząca”, or “Fighting Poland”, and is still visible in numerous Warsaw buildings and streets. But there are many others, including the turtle, sometimes accompanied by the letters ‘pPp’ (“\u003Cem\u003Epracuj Polaku powoli”\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, literally meaning “work slowly, Pole”), encouraging Polish people to ignore orders and sabotage Nazi companies and activities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDuring the war, Warsaw was extremely heavily bombed. To help visitors better imagine scale of the near-annihilation the city went through, Hanna Dzielińska, another Warsaw guide, takes them to the Old Town and asks them to find 10 old houses. Then, she asks them to close their eyes. She tells them, “We’re at war”. And then, when they open their eyes, she explains that out of the 10 houses they picked, only one and a half are still standing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s a shocking statistic, and one that truly tested Warsaw’s resilience. Many Varsovians were forced out of their city. Those who decided to return were also the most determined; they were willing to work hard to start their lives anew in a city that had been totally destroyed. “We can call them a hustler, someone sly and clever like a fox, or we can call them attached to their birthplace. It’s all about the mindset,” Dzielińska said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe destruction of Warsaw was so complete that the post-war authorities thought about \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fculture.pl\u002Fen\u002Farticle\u002Fhow-warsaw-came-close-to-never-being-rebuilt\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emoving the capital to another city\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, since re-building a town on this scale had never been done before. But the people of Poland, my grandfather among them, took matters in their own hands. There were hordes of people arriving in Warsaw, desperate to start anew, and when they arrived in the ruined city, they started rebuilding simply because they needed somewhere to live, despite the fact that the authorities were against it. The work became more organised, and eventually turned into a big push to rebuild the capital.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 1945, the Warsaw Reconstruction Office was founded and took over the rebuilding of the city, using old city plans as well as 18th-Century paintings by Italian artist Bernardo Bellotto who then acted as court painter of the Polish king Stanisław II Augustus Poniatowski. Residents literally rebuilt their city with their own hands, clearing debris and using bricks and stones from destroyed houses in Warsaw – and occasionally from other cities – to restore the city’s Old Town to its former glory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMoreover, the idea to rebuild an entire city went against the architectural thought of the time. Other cities that were also destroyed by the war, in Italy, Germany or France, decided to rebuild only individual, most important buildings. But Warsaw went big. Now, Warsaw’s Old Town is a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F30\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe next generations of Varsovians are still reminded of the reconstruction effort as they go about their day around the Nowy Świat, the city’s most prominent street, where the words “The entire nation builds its capital” are chiselled in big letters on one of the buildings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo Dzielińska, being a Warsaw hustler is mostly about contrariness. “If you destroy our city, we’ll rebuild it and it will be twice as good as it was before. If a Varsovian doesn’t like something, they’re going to resist. They won’t just agree to something,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis contrariness was also visible in the Polish resistance against communist rule (1947 to 1989). While it was a time of censorship, food shortages and often arrests for the smallest of misdeeds, Poles reacted to their new, absurd reality with humour and flair, especially in Warsaw. Cabarets, such as Salon Niezależnych, flourished under the new regime, poking fun at politicians, censorship and the new regime in general. “Being a Warsaw hustler has to do with being smooth, confident and relaxed. It’s about facing adversities in a way that’s natural. We’ll smile and we’ll talk. We’ll charm anyone,” Dzielińska added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECommunist rule was over by 1989, but the city’s troubled history has left its marks on Warsaw that remain to this day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s about facing adversities in a way that’s natural","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven now, the Polish capital can be a challenging place to appreciate for tourists, who often describe it as sad and grey. But, as Dzielińska points out, this is not fair. Because these traits are exactly what makes Warsaw stand out compared to its possibly prettier counterparts in Western Europe with less-turbulent histories.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“There are cities where there’s beauty wherever you look. And you don’t have to work to appreciate those cities because the beauty takes care of everything. And then there are cities like Berlin, like Rotterdam, like Warsaw, where the soul of the city is not in richness and splendour. These cities are more challenging, more demanding,” Dzielińska said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd, as a proud Varsovian myself, I wholeheartedly agree.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELuckily, Warsaw has been slowly but steadily shedding its dreary image. Dzielińska says her clients are often pleasantly surprised by the clean, tree-lined streets and well-developed public transport system. And once the first negative impressions are broken, visitors are duly amazed. Many find it hard to believe that Warsaw’s Old Town was rebuilt almost from scratch. But, of course, there is much more to see in Warsaw. From the beautiful Łazienki Park, which hosts the International Chopin Piano Competition, to museums such as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.1944.pl\u002Fen\u002Farticle\u002Fthe-warsaw-rising-museum,4516.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWarsaw Rising Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.polin.pl\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPOLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Warsaw is well worth a visit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd Varsovians themselves are learning to appreciate their unique city all over again. Recent art projects such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fculture.pl\u002Fen\u002Fartist\u002Fprojekt-warszawiak\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EProjekt Warszawiak\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a band that gives old Warsaw songs a modern twist, are wonderful examples of that. Most recently, their cover version of Grzesiuk’s song, There is no Hustler Slicker than a Warsaw Hustler, has proven extremely popular.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe city has a lot to be proud of, and not just because it rose from the ashes after near-total destruction, followed by years of communist regime. “As a guide, you need to find a modus operandi that will make someone say about a city that’s not objectively pretty, ‘this city has been through a lot’,” Dzielińska said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHer clients often ask her, with amazement, “What do you mean this was all gone? You’re heroes,” she added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI like the idea of being a hero. But I think I prefer hustler.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fsoul-of-the-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESoul of the City\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel that invites you to uncover the unique characteristics of cities around the world through the stories of the people who live there.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-09-04T14:55:06Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Why Polish people hate rules","headlineShort":"Why Polish people hate rules","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Warsaw has had a long and tumultuous history, which meant that its inhabitants had to come up with ingenious ways to survive.","summaryShort":"Here, beating the system is held in high esteem","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2019-09-03T18:59:38.08033Z","entity":"article","guid":"353e7f59-935e-4fa2-95bf-3d306306b15b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:20:15.620926Z","project":"travel","slug":"20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135634},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city","_id":"61df42b545ceed7eb027f9b2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fluka-jukic"],"bodyIntro":"Once a failed post-WW2 utopia, Krakow's Nowa Huta neighbourhood has found a new lease on life and is slowly emerging as a tourist destination.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFew countries emerged from World War Two as devastated as Poland. The country lost about a fifth of its population and its capital Warsaw was almost completely razed by the Nazis, with much of its cultural heritage plundered or destroyed. Even the nation's border was moved several hundred kilometres west, forcing millions to relocate to the so-called \"recovered territories\" once part of Germany, also largely left in ruins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet out of that rubble, hope for a new world emerged. One free from the baggage of the past, which would restore the pride of a broken nation and solve the social ills that had long plagued it. Or so promised the Polish communists that took power in 1948, and, under Joseph Stalin's watchful eye, set about rebuilding the country, armed with the ideological conviction that a new society must emerge from the old.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEmblematic of this new society was a Socialist Realist city called Nowa Huta, founded in 1949 just east of Krakow and constructed over the subsequent decades. At its heart was the gargantuan Vladimir Lenin Steelworks, intended to produce more steel than the entire country was able to manufacture before the war. Nowa Huta, which literally means \"New Steelworks\" in Polish and was built to accommodate the steel workers, was the most ambitious project of urban planning in post-war Poland: a utopian socialist city that the rest of the nation could model itself after. Five large boulevards fanned out from the Central Square, giving Nowa Huta a distinctive pentagonal shape and emphasising its monumental character.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Stalin's death in 1953 and subsequent de-Stalinization saw the Socialist Realist style fall out of favour. Nowa Huta's massive town hall and theatre were never built, and the remainder of the city was finished much more modestly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy 1973, as a consolation prize, an iconic statue of Lenin – the largest in Poland – graced the Avenue of Roses, just north of the main square.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bgmpbz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The sun falls between columns down a long archway at the front of a building","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It was a planned city that didn't really work out the way anybody expected,\" said Dr Katherine Lebow, whose 2013 book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cornellpress.cornell.edu\u002Fbook\u002F9781501704383\u002Funfinished-utopia\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnfinished Utopia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offers a detailed look into how the city was built and developed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite the ideological impetus, writes Lebow, the planners themselves – some of Poland's leading architects and urban planners of the day – received no direct instructions on how the city should look. However, knowing that the city was meant to be an urban ideal, their design emphasised parks and spacious apartments, and ensured that every block had all the services it would need. Socialist Realism stressed using local styles and socialist content, seeing all forms of art as vectors of propaganda, including architecture. Cities were meant not just to be visually appealing, but to portray socialist themes and serve as a backdrop for political ritual.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor most of the original Nowa Hucians who migrated from rural Poland, it would have been like entering a new world – one that they themselves were helping build. \"The new steelworks would be a perfect expression of Soviet-style gigantomania,\" wrote Lebow, \"a colossus demonstrating the supposedly Promethean powers of socialism to transform the human and physical landscape.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is a common myth that Nowa Huta's location was chosen to intentionally scorn conservative and bourgeois Krakow, with its modernity and adherence to socialist values standing in stark contrast to Poland's medieval capital. Yet the architectural influence of Krakow's old town is unmissable in Nowa Huta, with its arcades, internal squares and other design features replicated at scale. In the end, Krakow had the last laugh when it absorbed Nowa Huta in 1951.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Nowa Huta is an increasingly attractive place to live","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Nowa Huta succeeded in many respects, its fate cannot be untangled from that of communism as a whole. By the 1990s, the 200,000-strong Nowa Huta became synonymous with drugs, crime, poverty, and hooliganism, notorious throughout Poland as one of the most depressed parts of the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot so today. Poland is one of Europe's great modern economic success stories, something that can be felt both in its grand urban centres and in once-peripheral places like Nowa Huta. \"Nowa Huta is an increasingly attractive place to live,\" said Mateusz Marchocki, English-language guide at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffundacjanh.org\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPromotion of Nowa Huta Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, pointing out the dramatic increase in rents in recent years. \"Before, all the nightlife was in Krakow.\" Now, Nowa Huta is seeing restaurants, cafes, ice cream shops, and food trucks emerge to entertain the city's population. Even the ice-skating rink, which opened for the Advent period, Marchocki insists, would have been unimaginable when he was growing up.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bgmq32"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tall geometric building featuring many triangles and sharp angles on its exterior","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETen years ago, a visitor would have had little to do in the city, but Nowa Huta has learned to capitalise on its communist heritage. The city offers foreigners and Poles alike a snapshot of communism as it once was. \"Young [Poles] nowadays have no idea what it was like,\" said Marchocki. Stepping into parts of Nowa Huta is like stepping into the worlds of their parents and grandparents: from the fully renovated People's Theatre with its Egyptian-inspired Socialist Realist style and bright neon sign, to the monuments to the Solidarity movement, which would bring down communism across Poland in 1989, and some 250 nuclear bunkers that lie beneath the city, relics of a time when people worried about nuclear apocalypse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBesides its history, which can be explored at the Museum of Nowa Huta, opened in 2019 at the site of the old movie theatre, the main draw for tourists today is Nowa Huta's remaining Socialist Realist architecture. As one of only two planned and built Socialist Realist settlements in the world, besides Magnitogorsk deep in Russia's interior, Nowa Huta is something different from the bland modernism and grey brutalism usually associated with Eastern European socialism. Exemplified by the buildings on Central Square – ironically renamed in Ronald Reagan's honour in 2004 – the Socialist Realist style can also be seen inside Nowa Huta's few original shops. For example, the highly decorative interior of the folk-art shop \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FCepelix\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECepelix\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located on the city's north-east side, designed by the top Polish interior designers of the time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secrets hiding in Warsaw\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat can Poland teach us about freedom?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Polish people hate rules\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the jewel of Nowa Huta's Socialist Realist architecture is in the former Administrative Building of the Steelworks, whose faux Renaissance exterior and luxurious interior still display the style's ideal. Though technically closed to the public, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffundacjanh.org\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPromotion of Nowa Huta Foundation \u003C\u002Fa\u003Eoffers tours of the building, with Marchocki describing it as \"the most iconic building in Nowa Huta.\" With all its pomp, it's a testament to the utopian ambitions that birthed the city – ambitions that the workers themselves would challenge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1980, when the country was rocked by strikes called by the Solidarity trade union, the Vladimir Lenin Steelworks of Nowa Huta would boast the largest workplace chapter of the union, with a membership rate of 97%. The Catholic church resolutely supported the union and the protests, forcing the ruling communists into the incredibly awkward position of standing in opposition to the workers they were meant to represent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bgmr3y"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A man walks down a crosswalk as buses and cars zoom past","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was during this period that a young Krakow bishop by the name of Karol Wojtyła – later Pope John Paul II – made his name in his support of the workers and their struggle. In keeping with the country's state-sanctioned atheism, the city was intentionally built without a church. But the workers' desire for one was so great that they began building one illegally by hand. Brick by brick, without any heavy machinery, they erected Nowa Huta's first church, known as \"the Lord's Ark\" for its unique modernist form.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The city remains a living symbol, but not the one it was meant to be","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow one of the city's architectural attractions, it was joined in 1995 by the strikingly geometric Church of Our Lady of Czestochowa. These contrasts – of what the city was intended to be with what it instead became – can be seen all over Nowa Huta: in the street names, in the churches, and even in the city's modern fate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city remains a living symbol, but not the one it was meant to be. From the grandeur of Stalinist reconstruction to the rebelliousness of anti-communist religiosity to post-socialist depravation and, eventually, recovery in a new Poland, Nowa Huta's fate mirrors that of Poland since World War Two. Nowa Huta has found a new life. Not as a socialist ideal, but instead as a new kind of ideal in a democratic, capitalist and European Poland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter called \"The Essential List\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-13T20:54:18Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Nowa Huta: The city that went from communism to capitalism","headlineShort":"Europe's failed socialist utopia","image":["p0bgmmzb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Nowa Huta's central square is laid out in a distinctive pentagonal shape","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.0769997","longitude":"20.0055293","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Nowa Huta's central square is laid out in a distinctive pentagonal shape","promoImage":["p0bgmmzb"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180304-the-secrets-hiding-in-warsaw-the-paris-of-the-east","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170803-what-can-poland-teach-us-about-freedom","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190903-why-polish-people-hate-rules"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Once a failed post-WW2 utopia, Krakow's Nowa Huta neighbourhood has found a new lease on life and is slowly emerging as a tourist destination.","summaryShort":"It has found a new life as a democratic and capitalistic ideal","tag":["tag\u002Fcity","tag\u002Farts-architecture"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-12T21:05:50.19402Z","entity":"article","guid":"13be806b-dbbd-4b3a-8476-56c277a79c3f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city","modifiedDateTime":"2022-01-13T15:12:55.030427Z","project":"travel","slug":"20220112-nowa-huta-polands-utopian-socialist-city","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fkrakow","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fpoland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_poland_krakow_europe_poland_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135633},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions","_id":"6183c28f45ceed752606ea66","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"How did a meal that combines a preserved North Atlantic fish and a potentially deadly West African fruit become Jamaica’s national dish?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAckee and saltfish is synonymous with Jamaica, as entwined with the national identity as reggae or cricket. Spiked with herbs and peppers and accompanied by rich Caribbean trimmings like plantains and breadfruit, it pays testimony to the country’s tempestuous history and multiracial roots. The world’s fastest man, Usain Bolt \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Flifeandstyle\u002F2015\u002Fapr\u002F18\u002Fusain-bolt-ackee-saltfish-breakfast-champions\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereputedly has it for breakfast\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But how did a meal that combines a preserved North Atlantic fish and a potentially toxic West African fruit become Jamaica’s national dish?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe answer is embedded in the country’s history of slavery. Ackee is a voluptuous, red-skinned fruit related to the lychee that is native to Ghana. Saltfish originates in the choppy seas of Northern Europe and Eastern Canada. The ingredients’ subsequent marriage in the kitchens and restaurants of Jamaica was a direct result of the triangular slave trade between Britain, West Africa and its Caribbean colonies in the 18th and 19th Centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Ackee was brought to the island, probably on a slave ship from West Africa, sometime in the mid-1700s,\" explained Janet Crick, director of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jamaicaculinarytours.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJamaica Culinary Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Falmouth on the island’s north coast. \"Its name is derived from the original name of the fruit in the Ghanaian Twi language: \u003Cem\u003Eankye\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Interestingly, its scientific name \u003Cem\u003EBlighia Sapida\u003C\u002Fem\u003E was accorded in 1806 in honour of Captain Bligh (of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180517-the-island-fruit-that-caused-a-mutiny\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMutiny on the Bounty fame\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), who took the plant from Jamaica to the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew, London, in 1793. Prior to this, the ackee was unknown to science.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe fruit adapted well to Jamaica’s tropical climate and quickly flourished. These days, you’ll see broad, dense ackee trees embellishing the landscape everywhere from Montego Bay’s Hip Strip to the gardens of Goldeneye, the former estate of Ian Fleming, creator of James Bond.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200921-jamaicas-port-royal-the-wickedest-city-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe wickedest city on Earth?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210303-the-uk-seafood-that-could-send-you-to-jail\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK food that could send you to jail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180517-the-island-fruit-that-caused-a-mutiny\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island fruit that caused a mutiny\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESaltfish (traditionally cod) is caught and prepared in the North Atlantic. In the days before freezers and refrigerators, drying and salting was the main means of preserving fish. By the mid-17th Century, it became economically viable to transport large quantities of salted cod from Nova Scotia in Canada to Britain’s Caribbean colonies, where it was traded for rum, sugar and molasses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat both foods became staples in colonial Jamaica was not surprising. Non-perishable saltfish is inexpensive, easy to store and high in protein. Ackee is loaded with fibre, protein and vitamin C. In Jamaica’s brutal slave society, the foodstuffs made a cheap and nutritious repast for enslaved people on the country’s hot, humid sugar plantations. There is no record of when the two ingredients were first combined in one dish; but at some point over the last century, a definitive recipe emerged.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"First you boil the ackee and saltfish together for around 20 minutes before draining and removing any fish bones,\" explained Cuthbert Binns, executive chef at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pelicangrillja.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPelican Grill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a longstanding restaurant on Montego Bay’s Hip Strip. \"In this way the ackee absorbs some of the salt.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Next, you sauté onions, tomatoes, scallions and Scotch bonnet peppers in a separate pan. Add the boiled ackee and saltfish, sprinkle with a little thyme and black pepper and it’s ready to serve.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESides can vary, but the standards, according to Cuthbert, are roasted breadfruit, boiled green banana, johnnycake (deep-fried dumplings) and pan-fried plantain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen cooked, the spongey ackee flesh turns from beige to buttery yellow. Its mild creamy flavour perfectly balances the sharp saltiness of the fish. Although technically classified as a fruit, ackee is treated more like a vegetable in the Jamaican kitchen. Tourists often mistake it for scrambled eggs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAckee and saltfish is traditionally consumed for breakfast or brunch, and Cuthbert estimates his kitchen dispenses around 50 servings per day. As an imaginative spin-off, the Pelican Grill also offers the concoction as a dinner appetizer spooned over a slice of bammy (cassava flatbread). Shop around and you’re likely to encounter vegan-friendly \"virgin ackee\", while meat variants substitute the fish with salt-cured \"corned pork\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYou don’t have to wander far from the Pelican Grill to find an ackee tree. Several of the fragrant evergreens grow wild on the road to Montego Bay’s Sangster International Airport. Ackee can be harvested year-round. \"When I was young, we had two ackee trees in our yard,\" recounted Cuthbert. \"Some months, one tree would yield fruit while the other remained unproductive. Then they would switch over. It was only during the summer months that both trees were productive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite its vivid vermillion skin, ackee has a dark side: the fruit is toxic when unripe. Eating it before it is mature induces what is known as Jamaican vomiting sickness, which, on rare occasions, can be fatal. Time Magazine has listed ackee as one of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fcontent.time.com\u002Ftime\u002Fspecials\u002Fpackages\u002Fcompletelist\u002F0,29569,1967235,00.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworld’s 10 most dangerous foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. As a result, its trade is carefully controlled. In 1973, the American FDA (Food and Drug Administration) \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Ftopics\u002Fagricultural-and-biological-sciences\u002Fackee\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebanned\u003C\u002Fa\u003E the importation of ackee into the US. After a protracted lobbying campaign by the Jamaica Ackee Task Force, the ban was partially lifted in 2000, allowing canned or frozen ackee to be imported as long as it meets tight FDA regulations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Jamaicans, there are no such restrictions. Ackee is often sold by the roadside on makeshift tables mere metres from its mother tree. \"It is safe to pick ackee when the fruit has opened naturally and you can see the yellow pods inside without forcing the fruit open,\" said Crick. \"Ackee contains a toxic gas, hypoglycin A, which is released when the red fruit pops open, meaning it is mature and ready for consumption.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Jamaican food aficionados, the nuances go further. There are two different types of ackee – cheese and butter – each with their culinary merits. \"The flesh of butter ackee has a richer, more yellow colour,\" said Crick. \"It boils quickly and mashes or disintegrates very easily when cooked. By contrast, cheese ackee is a lighter pale colour and much firmer in texture, causing it to stand up more readily to the cooking process.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAckee’s poisonous image has meant its adoption as a food delicacy outside Jamaica has been limited. In West Africa, the seeds and pods are used to make soap. In Haiti, food shortages have sometimes led to illnesses and deaths after people have eaten unripe ackee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Ackee has a dark side: the fruit is toxic when unripe","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor the Jamaican diaspora, getting fresh ackee is difficult. Most expats have to settle for the canned variety, an adequate if unspectacular substitute akin to eating tinned peaches rather than juicy market fruit. Saltfish is similarly variable. These days it is more likely to come from Norway or Guyana than Nova Scotia. While cod is still the default, depleted stocks in recent years means that other white fish such as tilapia is sometimes used.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor the real breakfast deal, Crick says an on-island experience is always better than eating abroad, not just because the ackee’s fresh, but because home-grown Scotch bonnet peppers and herbs ensure superior seasoning. Her favourite haunts are a little cookshop called Yash Bowl in her home base of Falmouth; the restaurant at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sandyhavenresort.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESandy Haven Boutique hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Negril; and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FDeliWorks\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDeliworks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at Sovereign Shopping Centre in the capital Kingston.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWherever you eat it, you are tasting a piece of Jamaica’s soul. Ackee and saltfish may have its roots in the horrors of the transatlantic slave trade, but the contemporary dish, marinated for years in Jamaica’s cultural melting pot, perfectly encapsulates a country whose motto is \"Out of many, one people\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-03-15T19:49:28.421Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Ackee and saltfish: Jamaica’s breakfast of champions","headlineShort":"The Jamaican fruit that could kill you","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"How did a meal that combines a preserved North Atlantic fish and a potentially deadly West African fruit become Jamaica’s national dish?","summaryShort":"Despite its vivid vermillion skin, it has a dark side","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-03-15T19:57:02.025712Z","entity":"article","guid":"a48d5d53-6871-436a-b54d-6702b8289ea4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:05:08.718216Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135634},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese","_id":"6183c24c45ceed1f92612adb","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Keshi yená, or ‘stuffed cheese’, is a fascinating metaphor for an island where everything is a mix of something: flavours, languages and colours.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELeftovers and cheese. It doesn’t sound like a very erudite gastronomical combination, but on the Caribbean island of Curaçao, it’s one of the most sought-after traditional dishes by tourists and culinary connoisseurs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe dish is \u003Cem\u003Ekeshi yená\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which in Papiamento, an official language of Curaçao (the other two are Dutch and English), means ‘stuffed cheese’. Originally, it was essentially a pot of baked Dutch cheese – such as Edam or Gouda – filled with a mixture of meat (often chicken), vegetables, dried fruits and spices, and is a fascinating metaphor for an island where everything is a mix of something: flavours, languages and colours in terms of people and architecture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELocals consider this dish \u003Cem\u003Edushi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the Papiamento word meaning ‘tasty’, which is also a cultural benchmark used to describe everything on the island that is beautiful, delicious and has good vibes. But keshi yená has an unexpected complexity: its origins tell the tragic story of slavery in Curaçao.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen a fork cuts into the thick, yellow cheese of the keshi yená, everything that spills out is sublime: chicken, capers, onions, raisins, peppers, garlic, curry, paprika and chilli, all marinated in more faraway flavours such as soy sauce, tomato paste or ketchup. Every bite offers both tastes brought over by long journeys to the Caribbean Sea – when ships travelled the world trading spices, seeds and other goods – and a certain sensation of homemade food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor the most part, though, this dish represents a fusion of two very different worlds: the Netherlands and a multicultural, tropical territory. But keshi yená’s start was far more turbulent than you might expect. The big, round cheeses used as the base of the dish were brought to Curaçao by 17th-Century Dutch colonists and slave traders, and the ‘leftovers’ were added by the hungry slaves \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImage":"urn:external:nitro:image:p06y5hph","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocated 60km north of the coast of Venezuela, the island of Curaçao is part of an archipelago known as the ABC islands, which includes its sister islands Aruba and Bonaire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe islands have the privilege of being situated outside of the tropical hurricane belt and enjoy a dry, sunny and breezy climate almost year-round. They’re a paradise for windsurfers, scuba divers and sun-seekers; a commerce centre for Caribbean business people; and a refuge for Venezuelans fleeing from the country’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-latin-america-36319877\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecurrent crisis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECuraçao, which can be traversed by car in less than 90 minutes, is known for the colourful facades of its Dutch-style architecture and its mosaic of humanity, with the island’s more than 160,000 inhabitants made up of more than 50 nationalities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn estimated 40% of Curaçao’s population is descended from an immigration boom produced by the establishment of an oil refinery in 1915. Workers from places like Syria, India, China, Venezuela, Madeira, Eastern Europe and other Caribbean islands were among the thousands who arrived during the first half of the 20th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the refinery was a prime economic driver of the island for many decades, the territory wasn’t always seen as ‘profitable’ to newcomers. When the Spanish arrived on the island in 1499, enslaving the Arawak indigenous peoples and occupying it for more than a century they called it ‘\u003Cem\u003Ela isla inútil\u003C\u002Fem\u003E’, or ‘useless island’, expressing their frustration for the lack of precious metals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut it was conquest by the Netherlands in the 17th Century that ultimately defined the fate of Curaçao. The Dutch created a huge international business endeavour from the island’s salt deposits, and founded Willemstad, a perfect trading harbour, as the territory’s iconic, pastel-hued capital in 1634.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 1662, the Dutch West India Company made Curaçao its Caribbean hub for the Atlantic slave trade. Over two devastating centuries, hundreds of thousands of Africans were enslaved, put on overcrowded ships and brought to the island to be processed and redistributed in the Spanish colonies – including what are now Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador and Panama – or to work on plantations in Curaçao and other Caribbean islands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, some of Curaçao’s plantations have been converted into museums, resorts and restaurants. Standouts include the impressive Knip Plantation, a must-stop museum and the site where Curacao’s slave emancipation began, and Dokterstuin Plantation, a popular creole restaurant (pictured).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe slave trade ended in 1863, and since 2010, Curaçao has been a constituent country of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Some nationals refer to the Netherlands as ‘our kingdom’ and identify strongly with the country, too. But if you ask to a local “Where are you from?”, you could be surprised by the long list of countries a single individual could say. Besides Curaçao and the Netherlands, you could hear Venezuela, Brazil, India, Indonesia, Colombia, and, of course, an African country, all in the same answer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELike the island, keshi yená is a melting pot of cultures (as much as it’s a melting pot of cheese). Curry was brought to the Caribbean by Indian labourers; capers were originally from the Mediterranean; domesticated animals, including chickens, crossed the Atlantic in European ships; many fruits and vegetables were native to Curaçao; and, of course, the cheese hailed from the Netherlands. It was the plantation slaves who first brought these ingredients together, but keshi yená has evolved over time to accommodate new flavours and influences.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKeshi yená is a recipe of our ancestors, let’s say from the time of slavery, where the ‘Shon’ [plantation owners] would have the cheese and would use the inside of it and leave the crust. The slaves would take the crust, make a dough and fill it up so they can eat a keshi yená. But it has changed now, we have transformed it, so it looks better and is more representable,” said Hensley Birginia, chef de partie at the Avila Beach Hotel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEach version of the keshi yená is unique and often depends on whatever is left over. Some have meats marinated with soy sauce and spices, or bathed in tomato paste or ketchup for a sweeter result. Many include curry powder and capers, and a green plantain side dish that marks it as irrefutably Caribbean. And at restaurants, modern and more upscale editions might include things like a popular Curaçaoan corn polenta called \u003Cem\u003Efungi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a bright and refreshing purple cabbage salad on the side, and adornments of sauces and flowers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We add some plantain because there is a lot of fat in this cheese. We add some to cut the grease because you know, so much fat is not healthy,” explained Tania Ataoellah-Henriquez, who leads a social project called Casa Hilda where she teaches Curaçaoan cooking to a wide range of people from tourists to locals looking for job opportunities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs much as the ingredients vary, there are also many different ways to make keshi yená. And the dish has evolved over time to use various baking moulds lined with cheese instead of the cheese wheels that slaves used centuries ago. While today’s restaurants often use modern-day ramekins to form the individual baked cheeses, it was not always the case for home cooks. Ataoellah-Henriquez sometimes recycles sausage tins to make individual portions of it. “People couldn’t afford to buy bowls so they used to buy cans of vegetables or sausages, and use them to bake,” she said. “We do our keshi yená in an empty can of sausages like they used to.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBirginia sometimes uses plantain leaves to build a different, ‘old-style’ baking mould: “We boil the plantain leaf to make it more flexible and to kill the bacteria,” he said. “We cross the slices of cheese, then [add] the chicken, and then I find a way to fold it and close it, as a mould. That’s the way our ancestors used to cook. They ate the keshi yená directly from the leaf, using their hands.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite its strong historical and cultural roots, keshi yená’s popularity has faded over the years. Although it’s a dish that many islanders are familiar with and many tourists enjoy at restaurants – and can also be found in Aruba and Bonaire – it is not often cooked at home today. Most islanders prefer other kinds of meals, particularly broths and stews made from goat, fish, chicken or, in some cases, iguana. Cactus soup and conch stew are also traditional, and can be found in in the famous Marshe Bieu (Old Market) in Punda, the oldest neighbourhood in Williamstad.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd while you can find different kinds of cheese in island supermarkets, it’s not an essential ingredient in a Curaçaoan’s kitchen. It’s also not affordable for many, which could explain why locals mostly eat keshi yená for special occasions like wedding and anniversaries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The older generation would eat a lot of keshi yená, but now our culture has changed, and we don’t really care about it,” Birginia said. “It’s something more of the Caribbean – the tourists like to try the keshi yená and the elderly would appreciate it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAtaoellah-Henriquez has a different take and hints how the dish might have a new life, alluding to a revived interest from tourists and its appearance in posh hotels. “It used to be a sad story but today it means luxury, party, pleasure.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fsoul-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESoul Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that connects you with cherished memories through comfort foods from around the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-01-16T18:37:52Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A ‘melting pot’ made of cheese","headlineShort":"A genius cheese dish invented by slaves","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Keshi yená, or ‘stuffed cheese’, is a fascinating metaphor for an island where everything is a mix of something: flavours, languages and colours.","summaryShort":"It’s a metaphor for an island where everything is a mix of something","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:23:11.175998Z","entity":"article","guid":"232c0638-0ff8-406d-a5e0-40ed5c1721b2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese","modifiedDateTime":"2021-11-18T11:32:49.877242Z","project":"travel","slug":"20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135635},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food","_id":"6183c25e45ceed5d141f6fd1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"While Trinidad's doubles embody a story of desperation and opportunity, the humble chickpea sandwich has a contested origin that's part of decades-long family feud.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I visited my father's Caribbean home of Trinidad & Tobago from our New York base, I'd trail behind him as he walked the streets and byways of his youth. Most exciting were the stops he made at street food vendors, who hawked everything from peppered fruits to peanuts and spiced chickpeas, hand pies stuffed with seasoned potato, and shaved iced cones liberally doused with fruit syrups and sweetened condensed milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut of these offerings only one was the indisputable king: doubles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's the street food of the twin island nation that emerges as a jewel","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDoubles is a humble sandwich made from curried chickpeas tucked between two pieces of fried flat bread and dressed in tamarind and coriander sauces, mango chutney, \u003Cem\u003Ekuchela\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (spicy, green mango chutney) and cucumber. It's sold from makeshift stalls that have changed little from the original ones nearly a century ago, as well as in popular restaurants and tiny cafes. The best doubles feature soft bread and tender chickpeas that have undergone a long simmer in a curry sauce. When the condiments are added, the punchy taste experience perfectly balances sweet, tart and spicy in one addictive little package.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA vegan snack that appeals to all Trinidadians, doubles has become anytime-fare that serves as a popular go-to for late-night clubbers, a welcome hangover cure, a Carnival staple and a fast-food breakfast for schoolchildren and commuters. In 2012, it was for doubles that Trinidad's parliament recessed during its longest-ever session of 27 hours of continuous debate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike many great food traditions, doubles are part cultural tradition and part legend. Aficionados often refer to the snack as the epitome of Trinidadian cuisine, even though they've only been on the street food scene for less than a century. This is no small accomplishment considering how Trinidadian food is rooted in the ancient cuisines of West African, Indian, Chinese and Caribbean Indigenous people. In its relatively meteoric rise, doubles represents the cross-cultural amalgam that is Trinidad society, it's beloved by everyone, including locals from all backgrounds and visitors who sing its praises on social media.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETrinidad-based photographer and food journalist David Wears says that the adoration of doubles cannot be overstated. And, he says, doubles isn't just a hot commodity in Trinidad but also \"up the islands\" – the northerly islands in the Caribbean chain like St Lucia, Grenada, all the way up to Jamaica – as well as in the US, the UK and Canada, brought there by Trinidadian immigrants. The reach of doubles is so great that 30 May is recognised as International Doubles Day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Whenever I travel, the people I'm visiting jokingly remind me to bring them some doubles – except it's not really a joke,\" said Wears, whose Facebook group called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002F1527222050903529\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFoodie Run TT\u003C\u002Fa\u003E features doubles as its main image. In addition to sharing Trinidadian food culture on Facebook, Wears organises groups of food lovers to visit culinary hotspots around the country. In 2013, he spent several months \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fm.facebook.com\u002Fstory.php?story_fbid=597738876952009&id=100001477059342\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etouring Trinidad to find the best doubles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and he has identified top contenders such as Pier 1 Doubles (Chaguaramas), Harrylal Doubles (Diego Martin), Original Sauce & Sons (Tunpuna), Franks Doubles (St Augustine), Ken's Doubles & Pies (Couva) and Dibe Green Shed Doubles (Chaguanas).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I posted a question to the group about where to find the best doubles in [Trinidad & Tobago]. There were hundreds of comments and arguments. Then I announced my plan to find Trinidad's best doubles and people got really excited. Everyone from chefs to food enthusiasts to regular people just wanted to come along,\" said Wears, who asked locals to offer up their town's best five doubles vendors from which judges would select the best.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDoubles are, in many ways, the poster child for the cuisine of Trinidad & Tobago, which was born from an eclectic and often fraught history that produced a culinary fusion from the cultures that have called this island home. The foodways and techniques of Indigenous tribes were absorbed by Spanish, French and English colonisers whose cuisine melded with that of those they enslaved and indentured: West Africans, Chinese and Indians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat evolved is the unique variety of food for which the country is known: curried local vegetables and fruits; Buss Up Shut, or torn paratha roti, from the Indian tradition; Chinese Caribbean fare like local fried rice or \u003Cem\u003Epow\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (bao) buns stuffed with barbecue pork, chicken or vegetables; stewed meats browned in caramelised sugar from West African cooking styles; and barbecue, the Indigenous method of preserving heavily spiced meat by smoking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom these culinary riches, it's the street food of the twin island nation that emerges as a jewel. Richly varied, cheap, easily available and ever-changing, Trinidad's street eats tell a story of desperation and opportunity that is most embodied in the story of doubles. And, perhaps the most intriguing layer to the story is its contested origin, with two halves of one family claiming to have created it and much of the nation taking sides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt's generally accepted that doubles were the 1930s creation of a family of Muslim Indians descended from indentured labourers in the city of Princes Town in Trinidad's south. According to his book \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.outofthedoubleskitchen.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOut of the Doubles Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Badru Deen writes that his grandfather Mamool Deen and grandmother Rasulan Ali were desperate to rise above the poverty that plagued low-wage labourers working in the nation's sugarcane and cocoa estates, a legacy that began with enslavement and continued with indenture into the early 20th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGathering meagre resources from the sale of their only goat, the couple fried \u003Cem\u003Echana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (chickpeas) in their open-fire, outdoor kitchen. Mamool sold the treat wrapped in brown paper cones from a basket at the roadside. As their wares became popular, the innovative pair expanded to include \u003Cem\u003Ebara,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or fried dough, upon which the chickpeas could be placed like a plate, along with sauces. Originally, bara was made from ground \u003Cem\u003Eurad dal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (split black lentils) but was later adapted to use cheaper wheat flour to which spices were added. The legendary name of \"doubles\" came about when customers asked the vendors to \"double up\" the bara to form a sandwich.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMamool's two sisters were married to his wife's two brothers, Asgar and Ashraff \"Choate\" Ali, a situation that led to a decades-long family feud over doubles. Deen writes that, concerned for the welfare of his extended family, Mamool brought his brothers-in-law into the business. However, trouble started when Choate began to sell doubles in Mamool's territory instead of venturing out on his own. By contrast, Araby Ali, Choate's grandson, who today sells doubles in the town of Barataria just outside the capital city of Port of Spain, claims it was instead his grandfather who started the business. Deen categorically rejects this claim, going so far as to include pages of \"testimonials\" from elders and historians verifying Mamool Deen as the doubles creator.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe feud is so prevalent that some branches of the family no longer speak. Some historians like Brinsley Samaroo, a retired historian from the University of the West Indies who studied the Indian diaspora in Trinidad, support the idea of Mamool Deen as the founder; while others like Wears believe there is some grey area. Although the name \"doubles\" has never been trademarked, the dispute goes on even as the dish has become an iconic Trinidadian food having been adopted and co-opted by many others.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210512-the-secret-history-of-angostura-bitters\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secret history of Angostura Bitters\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJamaica's breakfast of champions\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA melting pot made of cheese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of which family member invented it, with each sandwich there remains a deep tie to India, a mother country forsaken nearly 200 years ago when Indians were tricked, forced or driven by poverty into indenture to fill the gap created by the emancipation of the island's enslaved Africans. However, no-one knows for sure which Indian dish might have directly inspired the creation of doubles. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESamaroo believes that doubles are a form of \u003Cem\u003Echana \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eor \u003Cem\u003Echole bhature\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a popular street food on the subcontinent featuring chickpeas cooked in a masala (spice mix) and served with a large, puffed fried bread called \u003Cem\u003Epuri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Indian celebrity chef \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sanjeevkapoor.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESanjeev Kapoor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E claims that the word \u003Cem\u003Ebara\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the bread used in doubles) is how the word \u003Cem\u003Evada\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a doughnut-like fried treat) can sometimes be pronounced in some parts of India, notably in the north-east regions like Uttar Pradesh from which the majority of Trinidad's indentured laborers hailed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"There are many types of vada or bara in India, which are made with ground dal – split beans or pulses – of different kinds, like the original bara for doubles,\" said Kapoor, who hosts Khanna Khazana, a TV show featuring Indian cuisine with 500 million viewers worldwide. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKapoor, who has travelled the world studying Indian cuisine, has seen versions of vada or bara as far afield as Mauritius and Fiji – anywhere where Indians now live. He notes that even though doubles are unique to Trinidad and that bara has evolved to use wheat flour, that the Deens and Alis created something familiar that was more like their native Indian food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Nostalgia is a powerful preservationist,\" said the chef. \"Indians in these regions – they stick to their roots and follow customs that may even be long gone in India itself.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of the dish's origin, Wears says the ethos of the Deen-Ali family doubles business is based on a spirit of ingenuity and resilience, which helps make the case for doubles being crowned as the unofficial national food of Trinidad & Tobago. The dish is not just a symbol of the Indian population, but also for the other groups of people who have brought aspects of perseverance, creativity and strength from their native cultures to the islands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs they were for their original founders, doubles now serve as an egalitarian a way up and out of financial hardship for all Trinidadians. The ingredients are cheap, and most vendors follow the cost-effective, Deen-Ali tradition of serving them at folding tables under wide beach umbrellas from rudimentary coolers, buckets or other reused containers. Most of all, commitment to one's local doubles seller is hard-baked into the culture. Every town or village has its own vendor or vendors, who are supported like the hometown sports team.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Doubles continue to be sold everywhere,\" said Wears. \"Anyone can make some sort of living because of the community spirit around the local doubles man, the vendor who sets up shop in a neighbourhood or main thoroughfare day after day trying to get by,\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver the course of the pandemic, it has been common for Trinidadians who lost their jobs to turn to selling simple foods made in their homes, chiefly among them doubles. Araby says he has lost some customers as other vendors have opened their own doubles stands, an endeavour that has been aided by mechanised doubles factories that churn out bara and chana for vendors to buy and resell.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Our business has been slow because a lot of people have been laid off with Covid, so everyone is opening a little doubles stall somewhere,\" said Araby. \"Some of my good customers have opened up a doubles business.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile this overflow of doubles vendors – particularly those with mass-market products – potentially threatens to reduce the dish to little more than fast food a la McDonald's or Starbucks, Araby takes these developments in his stride. He remains confident that his secret technique and recipe, which includes a special curry powder, will allow his establishment to stand out and retain its place among the many potentially fly-by-night vendors who are likely to abandon the business once the economy re-stabilises.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, nearly 100 years on, doubles remain a family business for both the Deens and Alis. Araby's adult children – Ameera, Arifah and Arif – are all involved in the business, as is 14-year-old Zakiyyah, whose dream is one day to expand into the United States by starting his own dedicated doubles restaurant in New York or Miami, where there are large Caribbean populations. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Doubles have come down from our forefathers for generations,\" said Araby, who has prepared doubles around the world, including for the faithful when making Hajj, the Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca, in 2005.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I hope we can expand. I hope we can take it to the next level one day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ERamin Ganeshram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E journalist\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E historian and author of \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hippocrenebooks.com\u002Fstore\u002Fp438\u002FSweet_Hands%3A_Island_Cooking_from_Trinidad_%26_Tobago_%283rd_Edition%29.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESweet Hands: Island Cooking from Trinidad & Tobago\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-05-27T19:48:26Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Doubles: Trinidad's addictively spicy street snack","headlineShort":"Trinidad's addictive spicy street snack","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"10.6975499","longitude":"-61.7721817","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While Trinidad's doubles embody a story of desperation and opportunity, the humble chickpea sandwich has a contested origin that's part of a decades-long family feud.","summaryShort":"It serves as an egalitarian a way up and out of financial hardship","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-05-26T20:08:27.648063Z","entity":"article","guid":"e834ec03-203a-41f2-9b61-3329f806a7d9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:08:31.581822Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135635},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","_id":"61dddb8645ceed1e531c2b85","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Frosalind-cummings-yeates"],"bodyIntro":"Although the curry-spiced stew, porc-colombo, is the national dish of Guadeloupe, it's the humble bokit that has captured the hearts of the Caribbean archipelago.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the sun-scorched streets of Pointe-a Pitre, Guadeloupe, buzzy energy bubbled up from the narrow lanes and the scent of spices and frying dough mingled with the sea breeze. The first time I arrived on the archipelago, I was struck by the chaotic mix of old world and new: crayon-coloured 18th-Century buildings next to storefront mannequins dressed in patterned leggings and tanks; a graffiti artist spray painting a crumbling 19th-Century warehouse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll my senses were activated as l sipped fresh sugarcane juice and strolled around the waterfront. I understood immediately why Guadeloupe is known for \u003Cem\u003Ela belle la vie\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or the beautiful life. The zest for living is woven into every aspect of the islands' lifestyle, from the joyful rhythms of local \u003Cem\u003Ezouk\u003C\u002Fem\u003E music to the \u003Cspan\u003Erecord numbers for \u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmarketsize.net\u002Fchampaign-consumption\u002F\"\u003EC\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmarketsize.net\u002Fchampaign-consumption\u002F\"\u003Ehampagne drinking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but it's especially evident in the devoted preparation of food. I sampled complex dishes like \u003Cem\u003Eferoces \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ed'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eavocat, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ea spicy avocado salad with cassava and codfish, as well as the creole stew of breadfruit, plantains and tripe called \u003Cem\u003Ebe'bele. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EBut nothing seemed to be as ubiquitous and beloved as the source of that fried dough aroma, the almighty \u003Cem\u003Ebokit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ultimate Guadeloupan street food, bokit is a hefty sandwich fashioned from fried dough and a creative range of ingredients that's sold from stands, trucks and cafes that dot the island. I entered a tiny eatery with a faded sign and a few tables and chairs. A mind-numbing list of ingredient choices – including lamb, lobster, conch, curried chicken, pepper sauce, cheeses, curry sauce and ketchup – lined a wall over a grill where the owner was frying two long pieces of dough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI ordered saltfish with sweet peppers and Creole sauce (made of scotch bonnet peppers, onions, parsley, garlic and lime) and watched him stuff the ingredients between the fried bread and wrap it in foil. I took a bite and the flavours danced around my mouth, forming a happy mix. The satisfying blend of fat and freshness along with the array of fillings made it the perfect symbol of Guadeloupe's multicultural influences. The bokit is so much more than a sandwich; it's a portable feast and cultural symbol.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bfvq96"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Bokit taco on left and bokit skewers on right","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn overseas department of France located in the Eastern Caribbean between Antigua and Dominica, Guadeloupe is composed of five islands, with Grande Terre and Bass Terre the largest. After the abolition of slavery in 1848, indentured workers from South India were brought to the archipelago for cheap labour, creating a vibrant culture that combines African, French, indigenous and Indian influences. The simple preparation and varied fixings of bokits perfectly reflect this cultural mix, resulting in a bountiful and flavourful dish paired with the creativity of French cooking techniques.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The\u003Cem\u003E bokit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is a festive sandwich. It is a dish that unites,\" said Naike' Claudeon, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbokit-center.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBokit Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a stylish restaurant that serves healthy, gourmet versions of bokit in Pointe-a-Pitre\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\"When we think of a bokit\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E we often associate it with a family outing after visits to the cemetery or at the carnival. We also have to talk about the \u003Cem\u003Edankit \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(simple fried bread) from which the bokit is inspired.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA genius cheese dish invented by slaves\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrinidad's addictive spicy street snack\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Jamaican fruit that could kill you\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe added: \"It is a dish that has evolved a lot throughout its history. It's a dish that is not set in stone. Everyone can create their own. You may find a way to make it in Basse-Terre that you won't find in Grande-Terre. The bokit is very versatile.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe history of the bokit stretches back to the 19th Century, around the time of the abolition of slavery in Guadeloupe. Simple fried dough is typically called johnnycakes throughout most of the Caribbean, where the indigenous practice of cooking corn cakes on hot stones was adopted by enslaved Africans. The fried dough is called dankit in Guadeloupe, and stuffing it with whatever meat, cheese, or vegetables were on hand developed into a hearty meal for poor workers who needed a cheap and filling dish to sustain them during the long work day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bfvq6h"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Pile of bokit skewers covered in melted chocolate and powdered sugar","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Our very resourceful enslaved ancestors created the bokit because at that time they did not have an oven or the necessary means, but they had to eat and they had water, flour and oil,\" said Claudeon. \"Hence the idea of frying the dough instead of baking it. Most Caribbean islands have their version of bokit with a different name.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe evolution of the bokit mirrors the story of Guadeloupe. As the island developed more industries besides agriculture and the towns grew bigger with commerce, the bokit acquired more sophistication and variations. \"Originally the bokit was made without yeast and was called dankit. [But] over the years the recipe evolved and yeast was added to it [inspired by the prevalence of French bread] and it then became the bokit that we know today,\" explained Colette Chicot, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbokaraibes-restaurant.business.site\u002F?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBokaraibes,\u003C\u002Fa\u003E a bokit cafe in Basse Terre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Bokit is to Guadeloupe what the baguette is to mainland France or what the naan is to India","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Bokit is to Guadeloupe what the baguette is to mainland France or what the naan is to India,\" she added. \"The bokit is truly a sandwich that has evolved so much and is still evolving. For example, I'm known for making bokits with breadfruit flour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, I have savoured many exciting bokit variations. One option showcased the keen skills of French technique, with stewed pork topped with julienned cabbage and carrots. Sprinkled with local sugar cane syrup, the result was a sweet and savoury dish that reflected the French appreciation of a mix of flavours and textures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother time, sitting in the shade of a lush sea grape tree on the golden sands in Sainte Anne, a popular beachfront town in Grande Terre, I enjoyed a an Indian-inspired bokit bursting with chickpeas, cabbage and potatoes and dressed with turmeric and tamarind sauce. As I licked the sauce from my fingers, I leaned against the trunk and watched an eager queue of patrons line up at the small truck for bokits stuffed with everything from aubergine to mutton.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bfvqdr"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Bokit on yellow tray with cucumber and carrot","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The bokit was first marketed as a food truck sandwich,\" said Claudeon. \"Mothers would sell bokits in food trucks to make money to feed their children. At the time, we had two types of bokit: the bokit stuffed before frying; and the bokit stuffed after frying.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPreserving the textures and flavours of the stuffed ingredients has made stuffing after frying the most popular method – but everything else remains open for creative interpretation. At the Bokit Center, the dough can be made with trendy ingredients like turmeric or charcoal; while a taco-like version called \u003Cem\u003Ebokitos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is popular, as are skewers made from bokit dough called \"bokit sticks\" featuring meat and vegetables or chocolate and powdered sugar for dessert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the curry-spiced stew, \u003Cem\u003Eporc-colombo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is the national dish of Guadeloupe, bokits have captured the hearts of the Caribbean island for their versatility and easy accessibility. \"Friday is bokit day in Guadeloupe, \" said Chicot. \"It's the weekend, everybody is looking for comfort food and the bokit is practical; it's food on the go.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe added: \"The bokit is ours. It truly represents our history, our soul, our genes. To make bokits is to revive one of the most beautiful symbols of the island. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E a series from BBC Travel connecting to the rare and local foods woven into a place’s heritage.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculinary-roots"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-12T19:31:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Bokit: The fried food that defines an island","headlineShort":"The fried food that defines an island","image":["p0bfvq1x"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"16.2650","longitude":"61.5510","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bfvq1x"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210315-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-breakfast-of-champions","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190115-a-melting-pot-made-of-cheese","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210526-doubles-trinidads-favourite-street-food"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although the curry-spiced stew, porc-colombo, is the national dish of Guadeloupe, it's the humble bokit that has captured the hearts of the Caribbean archipelago.","summaryShort":"No food is as ubiquitous and beloved as the almighty bokit","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-11T19:33:19.084942Z","entity":"article","guid":"b81f0ee0-fab6-486c-9820-6524482dc993","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","modifiedDateTime":"2022-01-12T01:07:25.320091Z","project":"travel","slug":"20220111-bokit-the-fried-food-that-defines-an-island","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcaribbean"],"destinationStat":"caribbean","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135634},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing","_id":"61b7b38c45ceed3aed5d9185","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Nearly 2,000 years on, how are the Colosseum and the Pantheon still standing despite earthquakes, floods and military conflicts?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInside the Colosseum's stone and mortar bowl, visitors have ample space to picture the roaring crowds of more than 50,000 that once thronged to the arena for events ranging from bloody gladiatorial battles to opulent processions and chariot races. Also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, the venue's grand opening in 80 AD featured 100 straight days of games and gore that are said to have included the slaughter of some 9,000 animals. At four storeys tall and 188m across at its widest point, the oval structure remains the \u003Cspan\u003Elargest amphitheatre in the world\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EConstructed around 40 years later, the Pantheon houses a mind-bending dome that spans 43m of air and culminates in a pupil-like circular window at its apex known as the oculus that floods the interior with natural light. The name Pantheon, which combines the Greek words for \"all\" and \"gods\", suggests a religious function, but some historians think the monument was mainly constructed to pay tribute to Roman emperors. Despite the ravages of time, the iconic half-sphere remains intact and is still the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen it came to building big, the Romans clearly knew what they were doing. Nearly 2,000 years after they were constructed, these two enormous and technically astounding structures have withstood earthquakes, floods and military conflicts, long outlasting the empire that spawned them and becoming physical embodiments of the enduring influence of Roman culture across the globe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut how did ancient Rome accomplish such monumental, long-lasting architecture so long ago?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEngineers and materials scientists are still studying Roman structures today, and they say the secret is the marriage of ingenious design with an innovative recipe for concrete, a supremely durable and adaptable material that is still used the world over. While the Romans didn't invent concrete, they certainly raised the bar for building with it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPouring concrete allowed Roman architects to achieve almost any shape they could imagine, limited only by their ability to construct the wooden forms necessary to mould the rocky slurry. But the arches, vaults and domes that are signatures of Roman buildings were not just flights of fancy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Old cobblestone street in Rome and Pantheon in the centre, Italy","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe highest expressions of the Roman Empire's built environment confront modern visitors with an \"engineering approach\", said Renato Perucchio, a mechanical engineer at the University of Rochester in New York. \"The Romans performed sophisticated analyses that led them to these designs, which were then expressed through an extremely careful construction process.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe concrete that held these designs together was also unique and deeply considered. Roman concrete used a different recipe than modern concrete, and researchers studying this ancient material say its ingredients appear to endow the material with phenomenal resistance to degradation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, most concrete is made up of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cement.org\u002Fcement-concrete\u002Fhow-cement-is-made\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eportland cement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – a combination of silica sand, limestone, clay, chalk and other minerals that is baked around 2,000C and crushed into fine powder – and pieces of rock or sand called aggregate. Mixing the rocky aggregate, which varies in size from sand to gravel to small chunks of stone, with the cement makes the resulting concrete stronger and saves cement. Finally, adding water to the concrete mix sets off a chemical reaction in the cement that binds these elements together. For the most part, aggregate in modern concrete is carefully chosen to be as chemically inert as possible. The idea is to avoid any unwanted chemistry once this initial reaction concludes, since any additional reactions down the road usually crack or otherwise weaken the concrete.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious secret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's empire crushed by water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYemen's ancient skyscraper cities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERoman concrete, on the other hand, is a simpler mix of quicklime made from baking and crushing limestone rocks and, most importantly, volcanic rock aggregates of various types, which were abundant in the region surrounding Rome. In contrast to the aggregates used in modern concrete, these volcanic materials used by the Romans are highly reactive and the resulting concrete remains chemically active for centuries after it first hardens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Portland cements nowadays are not meant to change chemically, and if they do change it's usually going to have a bad effect,\" said Marie Jackson, a geologist at the University of Utah who has been studying Roman concrete for decades. \"Romans wanted their concrete to react. They chose an aggregate that would continue to participate in the concrete processes over time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn contrast to modern concrete, this ongoing reactivity allows Roman concrete to get stronger over time. These long-term chemical reactions can serve to reinforce small cracks that often form between the pieces of aggregate and the binding cement and prevent them from propagating farther. This regenerative capacity, made possible by the reactive volcanic minerals, is what enables Roman concrete's tremendous capacity to endure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Modern concrete construction might last 100 years with maintenance, but some Roman structures have survived for 1,000 years or more essentially unassisted","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Sure, we can produce concrete with greater tensile strength today, but so what?\" said Perucchio. \"Modern concrete construction might last 100 years with maintenance, but some Roman structures have survived for 1,000 years or more essentially unassisted.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The Oculus in The Pantheon with the light shining through","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough researchers had suspected for many years that it was the addition of volcanic minerals that gave Roman concrete its staying power, it wasn't until 2014 that Jackson and others \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdoi.org\u002F10.1073\u002Fpnas.1417456111\"\u003Erevealed the precise chemistry involved\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In their study, they tested a concrete mix based on what was used in the construction of Trajan's Markets in Rome and observed the growth of plate-like crystals of a mineral called strätlingite in the so-called \"interfacial zones\" between the chunks of volcanic rock and the cement holding the mixture together. The researchers wrote that these crystals served to reinforce these interfacial zones, which are typically the weakest link in concretes made with portland cement, rendering the Roman concrete more resistant to cracking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERecently, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdoi.org\u002F10.1111\u002Fjace.18133\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enew study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Jackson and others published in autumn 2021 suggests that crystalline strätlingite isn't the only byproduct of the ancient concrete's ongoing reactivity that keeps it holding strong. The team studied a sample of concrete from the 21m-tall cylindrical tomb of a Roman noblewoman named Caecilia Metella that was constructed around 30 BC near an ancient Roman road known as the Appian Way. This concrete, it turned out, was made using volcanic rocks that contained lots of a potassium-rich mineral called leucite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the course of the 2,000 years following the tomb’s construction, rain and groundwater seeped into the tomb's walls and dissolved the leucite, releasing its potassium into the concrete. In modern concrete, being inundated with potassium would create expanding gels and cause cracking and deterioration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Jackson and her colleagues instead found that the reactive volcanic minerals in Roman concrete facilitated a different outcome. The dissolved potassium ended up reconfiguring the chemical \"glue\" that forms the backbone of hardened concrete, which maintained and enhanced the strength of the material despite containing significantly less strätlingite than the team observed in the Trajan's Market concrete.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs for why Roman concrete’s longevity appears to have a slightly different explanation in these two contexts, Linda Seymour, who worked on the study while completing her PhD at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) in the US, said it’s partly “that these structures experienced different environments, which then resulted in different chemical processes\". Seymour said the differences can also be accounted for by “the varying chemical compositions of the aggregates the Romans used – but the common thread is this ongoing reactivity that results in a non-detrimental reconfiguration of the concrete over time\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Trajan's Market in the afternoon light","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe chemical diversity of Roman concrete likely means not everything they tried worked equally well, but in the Colosseum and the Pantheon we have two irrefutable testaments to the material's success.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the Colosseum, concrete isn't necessarily the star of the show but it has played an integral role in the arena's survival. The most prominent material at the Colosseum is travertine limestone, but concrete is what holds the amphitheatre's many iconic archways aloft. Yet, perhaps the most significant contribution of concrete to the Colosseum's longevity is out of sight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You can't see it as a tourist, but the reason the Colosseum is still standing is because of its incredibly robust concrete foundation,\" said Jackson. That concrete foundation is packed with dense, heavy lava rock aggregate and is a full 12m thick, she added. Without such a strong, long-lasting material at its foundation, the Colosseum would have been reduced entirely to rubble by the region's earthquakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENo visit to Rome would be complete without a visit to the Colosseum, but for anyone seeking the pinnacle of concrete construction in the ancient world, Perucchio says the Pantheon's unreinforced dome is a must.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside the Pantheon's rotunda, the distance from the floor to the very top of the dome is virtually identical to the dome's 43m diameter, inviting anyone inside to imagine the huge, perfect sphere that could be housed within its interior. When trying to appreciate the Pantheon's dome, \"unreinforced\" is really the key word.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPerucchio said that if an architect tried to build the Pantheon today, the plans would be denied because without reinforcement, such as the steel bars commonly used in modern concrete structures, the dome would violate modern civil engineering code\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Rome skyline at sunset with Tiber river and St. Peter's Basilica","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The dome creates very high tensile stresses, yet it's been standing for 19 centuries,\" said Perucchio. \"From this you can draw one of two conclusions: either gravity worked differently in Roman times; or there is knowledge that we have lost.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EApart from the unique chemistry of their concrete, the Roman architects behind the Pantheon deployed innumerable tricks to achieve their vision. Two such tricks were aimed at making the dome's walls as light as possible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring construction, the concrete that makes up the building's half-spherical ceiling had to be poured from the bottom up into wooden frames that formed successive concentric rings. But to ease the immense tensile stresses Perucchio mentioned, the builders used progressively lighter volcanic rocks as aggregate as they got closer to the dome's apex as well as making the walls themselves thinner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the lowest, widest part of the dome, the concrete contains large blocks of heavy basalt for strength and is about 6m thick. By contrast, the last layer surrounding the oculus uses airy pumice stone, which is so light it floats in water, as aggregate and is roughly 2m thick.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe second trick can be seen all over the inside of the dome. The curved interior of the ceiling is covered in hollowed out rectangles known as coffers. These geometric coffers are mesmerising, but they're not simply there for aesthetics. They also reduced the amount of concrete required to build the dome and made it lighter, which reduced stress on the materials.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I consider it one of the most extraordinarily beautiful structures ever built","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The Pantheon is a magical place,\" said Perucchio. \"I've been there countless times, but every time I am filled with enormous admiration for the architecture and engineering involved. I consider it one of the most extraordinarily beautiful structures ever built.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Pantheon, concrete may have achieved its most sublime form – a book on the structure declares it a \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.romanconcrete.com\u002Fdocs\u002Fpanover\u002Fpanover.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etriumph of concrete\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" – but Admir Masic, a materials scientist at MIT and co-author of the 2021 study, said that in the modern world concrete is \"somewhat evil\" despite all the useful and even beautiful things it can do. That's because producing the portland cement that goes into today's concrete is responsible for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fd41586-021-02612-5#ref-CR3\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eat least 8% of global carbon emissions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The Colosseum in Rome","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMasic and Jackson are studying Roman concrete with an eye towards making today's concrete more environmentally friendly. The biggest advantage of Roman concrete, Masic said, is that its lime-based binder only needs to be heated to around 900C, while portland cement needs to be fired at close to 1,450C.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis alone means that Roman concrete has the potential to offer massive reductions in the carbon footprint of concrete production. But Masic said the material's' longevity could also allow us to replace infrastructure less frequently.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Imagine we start to build infrastructure that lasts 500 years instead of 100 years, and that we add Roman concrete's self-healing property to every project we do,\" Masic said. \"We might sell less concrete as a result but that's exactly the problem in our current mode of infrastructure. Making things that last longer is perhaps the simplest way to improve sustainability.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJackson and her collaborators are working on a US Department of Energy ARPA-e project to develop a Roman-like concrete with the goals of potentially reducing the emissions associated with concrete production and installation by 85% and quadrupling its lifespan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmong the biggest obstacles to wider adoption of the Roman recipe are its long curing time – it can take up to six months to reach full strength, compared to standard concrete's' 28 days – and lower strength (Perucchio said it's approximately 10 times weaker than modern concrete), which means it might fail in some heavyweight modern applications.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Masic said there are ways of speeding up the chemistry involved in Roman concrete's curing process. He's working on a technique that involves injecting Roman concrete with carbon dioxide that might allow the mixture to cure in a matter of days. \"We don't' need to copy what the Romans did exactly,\" he said, \"but when it comes to making concrete more durable and more sustainable, they clearly have some things to teach us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-20T06:58:55Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"How are Rome's monuments still standing?","headlineShort":"How Rome's monuments are still standing","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"(Credit: Anton Aleksenko\u002FGetty Images)","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"41.8902","longitude":"12.4922","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"(Credit: Anton Aleksenko\u002FGetty Images)","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Nearly 2,000 years on, how are the Colosseum and the Pantheon still standing despite earthquakes, floods and military conflicts?","summaryShort":"When it came to building big, the Romans knew what they were doing","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-13T20:56:36.906234Z","entity":"article","guid":"52fe2f4e-32b8-439c-873d-c33ae5d66b81","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing","modifiedDateTime":"2021-12-20T20:41:53.419949Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135635},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy","_id":"6183c25f45ceed5b3154dc28","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The country that created the Slow Food movement is now championing slow travel with an ambitious €35m, 13-year plan to connect all of Italy's 25 national parks.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a recent evening, Elia Origoni stood at Sardinia’s south-eastern tip, watching the azure sky darken until it merged with the sea, and contemplating the most daunting leg of his ambitious trip. In two days, he would set off on a 405km paddle across the Tyrrhenian Sea in hopes of becoming the first person to traverse Sardinia, Sicily and the entire length of Italy using only his feet, a rowboat and his prodigious stamina.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"His remarkable 7,000-plus km journey is helping to highlight a newly announced trail that will span the entire Italian peninsula","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's a combination of fantasy and really hard work,\" said Origoni, a mountain guide from northern Italy. He expects to cover 30km to 40km each day, walking and camping in Sardinia, rowing to and hiking through Sicily, and then rowing again to mainland Italy, where he will walk all the way to Muggia, a small town in the far north-eastern region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. Origoni's remarkable 7,000-plus km self-propelled journey is helping to highlight a newly announced trail that will span the entire Italian peninsula and will connect all of Italy's 25 national parks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm doing this without using Google Maps or a GPS because we're losing the value of being able to move without a phone in our hands. With a physical map, you have a much wider view of where you are; you discover your surroundings and how they connect,\" Origoni told me, confessing that the Sardinia-to-Sicily paddle gave him pause. \"The next four days will be the longest of my life, because I've never done this before. In the mountains, I move confidently; in the boat, it's a new challenge.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eliaorigoni.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOrigoni\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who is making the arduous trip carrying just a 7kg backpack, is at the extreme end of a growing movement among young Italians. By embracing an ecologically friendly approach to tourism that emphasises connections with local cultures, the nation that birthed the world's Slow Food movement is increasingly championing slow, sustainable travel – and celebrating the beauty of its vast and largely unexplored wilderness in the process.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Sentiero dei Parchi will cross 20 regions, pass through six Unesco sites and stretch nearly 8,000km","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter Italy became the global epicentre for the coronavirus pandemic and imposed some of Europe's strictest \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fextra\u002Fdj3jonuhi1\u002Fcoronavirus-year-of-the-mask\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elockdown measures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E last spring, the Italian National Tourism Research Institute \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.isnart.it\u002Feconomia-del-turismo\u002Findagini-nazionali\u002Findagine-2020\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereported\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that more than 27 million Italians chose hiking trips for their summer holiday last year, with nearly half of Italians wanting an immersive nature holiday. The study, titled Covid Changes the Holidays of Italians, concluded, \"The fear of the virus… allowed Italians to discover and try a new way of going on vacation.\" The Italian financial newspaper Il Sole 24 Ore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ilsole24ore.com\u002Fart\u002Fitaliani-popolo-camminatori-e-trekking-l-attivita-piu-praticata-vacanze-2020-ADnic1CB\"\u003Etermed this trend\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"a paradigm shift caused by the need for social distance, the desire to visit small, uncrowded places and the need for air and movement\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn response, last May as restless Italians emerged from one of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.france24.com\u002Fen\u002F20200504-italy-starts-to-emerge-from-world-s-longest-nationwide-covid-19-lockdown\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworld's longest nationwide lockdowns\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Italy's Ministry of the Environment and the storied 158-year-old \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cai.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItalian Alpine Club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E announced an ambitious €35m, 13-year plan to extend Italy's existing \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsentieroitalia.cai.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESentiero Italia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the Grand Italian Route) by roughly 1,000km to form a new path connecting each of Italy's 25 national parks, including those on the islands of Sardinia and Sicily. When it's completed in 2033, the new route, known as the Sentiero dei Parchi (Path of the Parks) will cross each of the country’s 20 regions, pass through six Unesco World Heritage sites and stretch nearly 8,000km – twice the length of the US' Appalachian Trail and roughly 10 times the distance of the Camino de Santiago's complete St Jean Pied de Port to Galicia route.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe investment shows \"how much we care about our priceless heritage of biodiversity and its enhancement in terms of sustainable tourism, especially in this post-Covid recovery period when we all feel the need to be more outdoors,\" said Italy's Minister of the Environment, Sergio Costa, when he announced the initiative.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EConceived by a group of environmental journalists, the Grand Italian Route was completed in the 1990s but has been neglected in recent decades. Now, hikers, environmentalists and tourism officials are championing its new offshoot as a way to celebrate Italy's rural soul and expand many travellers' notions that the Italian landscape is limited to the rolling Tuscan countryside they see on postcards or screensavers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe birthplace of Alpine hay bathing\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210218-italys-best-forgotten-cities-and-towns\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrances Mayes on the enduring allure of Italy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn Italian town surrounded by Switzerland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, the Path of the Parks encompasses a veritable highlight reel of dramatic – if lesser-known – Italian vistas. Hikers can explore Sardinia's ancient cork forests; travel into the Apennine Mountains, Italy's mountainous backbone, and look for bear and fox in the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.parcoabruzzo.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAbruzzo, Lazio e Molise National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; search for hidden hermitages surrounded by beech forests in Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna; and come face to face with ibex in the snow-capped peaks that tower over Evian-clear lakes in the Alpine \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.pngp.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGran Paradiso National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Until now there has never been a national authority or study on the care and planning of the Italian hiking trail network,\" said Alpine Club vice president Antonio Montani. \"The work has always been carried out by volunteers who look after their own land free of charge or with occasional funds without a general vision. With this change, we hope that mountains, hiking trails and slow tourism can gain sufficient importance and dignity to be relevant at government level.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.schengenvisainfo.com\u002Fnews\u002Fcovid-19-absence-of-tourists-could-harm-italy-with-e36-7-billion-loss-wttc-says\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly expected to lose a devastating €36.7bn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from coronavirus-related tourism restrictions in 2020 and travellers potentially hesitant to cram back into Italy's many cities, museums and trattorias once international travel resumes, officials hope the new Path of the Parks will offer visitors a new, more Covid-friendly way to experience the \u003Cem\u003Ebel paese\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Officials hope the Path of the Parks will offer a new, more Covid-friendly way to experience the bel paese","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The impact of Covid on the tourism industry … has been significant,\" said Maria Elena Rossi, marketing and promotion director of the Italian National Tourist Board. \"[Italy] can benefit in the future from more diversified and innovative itineraries connected to outdoor activities, both slow and adventurous. The Path of Italian Parks connects communities, biodiversity and natural environment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESara Furlanetto, a photojournalist, echoes this point. \"Italy can’t just be known for cultural cities or the beautiful sea. It's much, much more. Most Italians are not aware that Italy is 70% mountains and hills. We wanted to shift the narrative and put the face of the mountains out front,\" she said of the hiking organisation she founded, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vasentiero.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVa' Sentiero\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBefore Covid, Furlanetto and her friends would post their Grand Italian Route hiking trips on their website and invite other outdoor enthusiasts to join them for all or part of the itinerary. Since 2016, Va' Sentiero has grown from a group of three intrepid friends to a forum for more than 2,000 fellow hikers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Now more than ever, thinking about the post-pandemic scenario, people want to reconnect with [nature],\" Furlanetto said. \"The Grand Italian Route is also a symbol for environmental protection, so it must be promoted with a slow approach. Right now, the trail crosses 16 out of the 25 national parks of Italy. I believe the idea of expanding the trail in order to reach the totality of the parks is of great value, and… can represent an important boost for the promotion of Italian natural areas.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Now more than ever ... people want to reconnect with [nature]","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESupporting local communities and encouraging multi-day hiking trips is critical to the path’s success said Montani. For now, much of the existing Grand Italian Route requires hikers to camp. But as part of the new €35m investment, Montani is working to develop a network of small hostels and bed and breakfast options at some of the stops within the national parks, as well as trails to accommodate wheelchair-bound travellers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We have a wealth of small artistic sites, like the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.santuariodioropa.it\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOropa Sanctuary\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the Alps, with frescoes from the 1500s,\" Montani said. \"Normally you'd think you have to go to Florence or Rome to see them, but if you love nature and you love art, these trails give you the possibility for both. Every 20km you get a different view, different kinds of cuisine, different cultural traditions.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat sense of discovery and wonder also inspires Francesco Paolo Lanzino, the mastermind behind \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwoodvivors.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWoodvivors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a seven-person group that recently started a six-month trip riding mules from the far southern Sicilian island of Pantelleria all the way to Turin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We're choosing to follow the Sentiero Italia because it really is a path linking every part of Italy, passing from some of the ancient and storied paths used since the time of Romans, Greeks and even before,\" he said. \"The Sentiero dei Parchi will open up new opportunities not only to explore these ancient routes, but to connect small villages along the way. The new paths show that we are not alone, but united through the rural roots of our historical connections.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlong the way, Lanzino and his team are going to shoot a documentary and television episodes about local culture, highlighting the often-overlooked regional farmers and artisanal wine and cheese producers so central to Italian culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We are looking to capture the traditions that were always passed orally from parents to children, and looking at what remains,\" Lanzino said. \"I'm convinced that from this past, which seems so far away but is still alive in rural parts of Italy, people can learn to build a more sustainable future.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne timeless tradition, so long a lure for tourists in Italy, is the country's warm hospitality. Though this has cooled by necessity in Covid-plagued cities, Origoni says the pre-pandemic social spontaneity is part of what is making his self-propelled trip so appealing. As he concluded a day of hiking and was looking for a spot to pitch his tent in rural Sardinia last month, a man saw him and invited him over for dinner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I went to his small country home and had dinner with him and his family. We had pasta, two glasses of wine and became friends. It was lovely,\" Origoni said. \"In Milan, we're under an orange alert, but in certain small rural areas, you can go back to socialising in a way that feels normal. To be welcomed by people feels great.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-05-18T22:44:56Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Sentiero dei Parchi: A new hiking trail uniting Italy","headlineShort":"The Italy most Italians don't see","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The country that created the Slow Food movement is now championing slow travel with an ambitious €35m, 13-year plan to connect all of Italy's 25 national parks.","summaryShort":"A new hiking trail aims to unite all 25 of Italy's national parks","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-05-17T22:56:04.854723Z","entity":"article","guid":"66d66755-355d-4ed0-aed8-ce9a82bc4b62","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:08:01.750552Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135635},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea","_id":"6183c26145ceed60f139f828","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Today, a team of archaeologists and engineers are developing some surprising new technologies to protect the underwater site for future generations.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“You’re sure I can cross?” I had to almost shout to be heard. Wooden slats dotted the ground before me. About 30m to my right, steam rose into the sky in thick grey-white clouds. And somewhere between where I stood now, and there, the earth turned from solid and cool to boiling and viscous. Wherever that exact change happened, I wanted to make sure I was none too close.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s very dangerous here","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“\u003Cem\u003ESì, sì,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E” said volcanologist Enzo Morra, my guide for the day. He was already climbing the hill on the other side of the wooden slats before me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI edged one foot onto one piece of wood, then the next. The ground felt firm. As I reached the far side and climbed the hilltop, I could see the source of the steam: a bubbling pool of dull gunmetal-grey mud, ominous as the contents of a witch’s cauldron and a great deal louder. The air smelled of sulphur.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s very dangerous here,” Morra welcomed me when I arrived. “More dangerous than Vesuvius.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI laughed nervously. “I wish you’d told me that when we were over there. Why are you telling me that when we’re \u003Cem\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fem\u003E?”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe were overlooking one of the fumaroles of Campi Flegrei, known in English as the Phlegraean Fields. One of 20 known “supervolcanoes” on the planet – capable of erupting with a volume thousands of times stronger than an average volcano – Campi Flegrei commands less notoriety than Mt Vesuvius, just 30km to the west. But that is largely down to luck. If Campi Flegrei were to blow at maximum capacity today, it would make the 79AD eruption of Mt Vesuvius that destroyed Pompeii look like a puppy’s sneeze. Fortunately, Campi Flegrei hasn’t had a full-force eruption in thousands of years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat isn’t to say it’s impossible. Researchers call the supervolcano \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.volcanodiscovery.com\u002Fcampi-flegrei\u002Fnews\u002F92465\u002FCampi-Flegrei-volcano-Italy-status-report-no-significant-variations-in-activity.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E“restless”\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002FNCOMMS15312\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethere are concerns it is becoming more so\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In 2012, the alert level was raised from green to yellow, indicating a need for more monitoring. Most recently, a “seismic swarm” in April 2020 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.volcanodiscovery.com\u002Fcampi-flegrei-earthquakes.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esaw 34 different earthquakes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20160902-the-bold-and-controversial-plan-to-drill-into-a-supervolcano\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe bold plan to drill into a supervolcano\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180104-ancient-romes-sinful-city-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Rome’s sinful city at the bottom of the sea\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200423-mt-etna-the-most-active-volcano-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMt Etna: The most active volcano on Earth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECampi Flegrei is more than a (fitfully) snoozing menace. It’s why the ancient Romans built one of the most magnificent resort towns on the Italian peninsula here: Baiae, famed for its hot springs and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180104-ancient-romes-sinful-city-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebad behaviour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It’s also why at least half of the town, with its precious marbles, mosaics and sculptures, sank beneath the Mediterranean over the following centuries. Now, this “restless” supervolcano is the reason why much of this archaeological site is at risk today – both indirectly, thanks to the sea’s effect on the artefacts, and directly, in terms of the threat of earthquakes or another volcanic eruption.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Romans had few ways of knowing when an eruption or earthquake was coming. They were all but helpless when it came to protecting their town against the encroaching sea. But that’s no longer true. Today, a team of archaeologists and engineers are developing some surprising new technologies to protect the underwater site for future generations. And that’s what I’ve come here to learn more about.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOver its full 13km radius, the supervolcano, almost all of it at ground level or beneath the sea, has 24 craters and more than 150 pools of boiling mud. It’s easy to see how the ancient Greeks, who settled here first, came up with the name: “Phlegraean Fields” is from the early Greek verb \u003Cem\u003Ephlégō\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (“to burn”). \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe danger of Campi Flegrei isn’t just its size and strength, but its randomness. When a volcano like Vesuvius erupts, you know where the eruption will come from: the cone at its peak. Not here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The activity isn’t ever in the same place. Every eruption has its own story and place of emission,” Morra said. “Therefore, we obviously don’t know when the eruption will happen. But we also don’t know \u003Cem\u003Ewhere \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe next eruption will happen, if there is one.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnother danger is the type of activity: more than 90% of the activity Campi Flegrei is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.geolsoc.org.uk\u002Fks3\u002Fgsl\u002Feducation\u002Fresources\u002Frockcycle\u002Fpage3599.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eexplosive\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, not effusive. In other words, when it blows, it won’t leak lava over the ground; it will punch a column of rock and lava into the air. When the detritus lands, the ash will blacken the sky and thicken the air, making both seeing and breathing near-impossible. The column’s collapse causes a pyroclastic flow: extreme heat of up to 700C that vaporises everything in its path.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat, at least, is what happened 39,000 years ago, the date of Campi Flegrei’s largest eruption. Molten rock spewed 70km high. Ashes were found as far away as Siberia. The explosion was so powerful, the volcano collapsed into a caldera. The cooling that occurred in the ensuing years \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpubs.geoscienceworld.org\u002Fgsa\u002Fgeology\u002Farticle-abstract\u002F43\u002F5\u002F411\u002F131840\u002FCampanian-Ignimbrite-volcanism-climate-and-the?redirectedFrom=fulltext\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emay even have helped bring about the end of the Neanderthals\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFifteen thousand years ago, Campi Flegrei erupted again. The eruption wasn’t as large, but it threw significant volumes of yellow tufa into the air – enough to give Naples its colour today. People carved through and built with the local stone, giving the \u003Cem\u003Epalazzi, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Echurches and even \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.napolisotterranea.org\u002Fen\u002Fnaples-underground\u002F\"\u003Eunderground tunnels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E their golden colour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe last significant eruption was in 1538. Compared to these previous two events, it was tiny. It was also big enough to throw ash and pumice 5.5km high. As the column collapsed, it \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.geo.mtu.edu\u002Fvolcanoes\u002Fboris\u002Fmirror\u002Fmirrored_html\u002FMontenuovo.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecreated a “new mountain\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (dubbed, quite literally, Monte Nuovo), measuring 123m high – and burying a village beneath it. If this happened today, in the vicinity of Italy’s third-most-populous city, Naples, the damage would be severe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo what is the possibility of such an eruption happening in our lifetimes?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Obviously we can't make estimates,” Morra said, almost languidly. “We know that an active volcano, any active volcano, can erupt. Clearly, in our heart – we hope not.” I looked worried. “Have courage!” he said. “Like Vesuvius, Campi Flegrei is continuously monitored by colleagues at the Vesuvian Observatory, the oldest volcano observatory in the world. This can make us feel more tranquil.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EClose monitoring means an eruption can be predicted months in advance. With enough warning, the hope is that the metropolitan area can be safely evacuated.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESigns of a pending eruption aren’t the only data that volcanologists collect. The Vesuvian Observatory was also the first to discover, and chart, a phenomenon known as “bradyseism”: the slow rising, and sinking, of land over time. As the magma in Campi Flegrei’s massive magma chamber moves 3km below ground, so does the land above – sometimes significantly. Over the last 15,000 years, the movement of the magma has pushed the land above it upward \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Ftentativelists\u002F2030\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eby some 90m\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. At the same time, other parts of the caldera have fallen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, like Vesuvius, Campi Flegrei has given the area around it much of what makes it special: its volcanic rocks, soft and easy for building; its volcanic soil, rich with nutrients for vineyards and lemon groves; even the crescent shape of its coast, providing a gulf for splashing and sunning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut what the supervolcano has given the area, it also can take away – even without an eruption.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E*\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn the eastern edge of the caldera, the above-ground archaeological site of Baiae overlooks the sea. A layer-cake of arches, walls and terraces, it was once the ultimate holiday spot for rich and aristocratic Romans, a kind of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180104-ancient-romes-sinful-city-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELas Vegas of the ancient world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Now stripped of most of their marble, frescoes and sculptures – many of which are now at the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.campiflegreionline.it\u002FCastello_di_Baia.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArchaeological Museum of Campi Flegrei\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – the buildings look little like they would have millennia ago. Graceful capitals, shorn of their columns, and stucco decorations, dotted with cherubs and swans, hint at its former opulence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs I walked through the site with University of Naples L’Orientale archaeologist Michele Stefanile, he pointed out to me what each structure once would have been: a villa, a bath, a theatre. In one room, I tiptoed around the red and white mosaics. In another, we admired the wall frescoes, still vibrant with ochre and crimson. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Romans came here for the same reasons we do: the sparkling Mediterranean, the balmy weather, the lush vegetation. They were also drawn to the area’s thermal springs – the result, of course, of the volcanic activity beneath their feet. When Baiae first entered the historical record in 178BC, it was as the Aquae Cumanae (Cumaean Waters).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut Baiae wasn’t just a spa retreat. It was a party town, a place for Romans to bathe and banquet, flirt and frolic. In one of his many elegies to his lover and muse Cynthia, even the poet Sextus Propertius, no great prude, wrote despairingly in 25BC:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E“But you must quickly leave degenerate Baiae;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ethese beaches bring divorce to many,\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ebeaches for long the enemy of decent girls.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EA curse on Baiae’s water, love’s disgrace!”\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fhistory\u002Fancient\u002Fromans\u002Ffallofromanrepublic_article_01.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Roman Republic lapsed into Empire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Baiae’s reputation only grew. In 39AD, Caligula built a bridge – made up of merchant ships linked together, then covered with earth – from Baiae to Pozzuoli, three miles long, then rode over it in a chariot. In 59AD, Nero had his mother, Agrippina, murdered in her villa here. The later emperor Hadrian would have a more peaceful end to his life, dying of natural causes in his Baiaen palace in 138AD. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMore straight-laced Romans stayed away, or claimed to. “It’s no wonder that men like Seneca, for example, decided to have his villa not in Baiae but in a hill in that direction – just to stay a little bit isolated,” Stefanile told me, pointing across the gulf. Even towards the end of his life in 65AD, the philosopher said: “Baiae is a place to be avoided, because, though it has certain natural advantages, luxury has claimed it for her own exclusive resort.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Luxury” was right. Not content with building on land, wealthy Romans erected pylons and built their villas directly over the sea itself. Horace, rather more prudish than Propertius, reprimanded his countrymen in 23BC for the immodesty of such actions:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E“You, on the brink of the grave,\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Econtract for the cutting of marble slabs;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eforgetful of death you fret\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eto build your mansion out from the coast\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ein the roaring sea at Baiae –\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ethe mainland shore will not suffice.”\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHorace’s reprimands aside, the effect would have been magnificent. “All of these villas, complexes and structures were conceived in order to be seen from the sea,” Stefanile said as we stood on a terrace. Beyond the ruins lay a clutch of pastel homes; past that, the glittering water. In the near distance, the slopes of Mt Vesuvius were purple in the summer haze.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We always make the mistake of putting ourselves on the ground,” Stefanile said. “But the perfect point of view to appreciate this is the sea. Just imagine being in the gulf of Baiae and seeing this leisure resort with all these terraces and the pools and the people crowded here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven as the western Roman Empire declined, Romans, and then Visigoths and Vandals, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tandfonline.com\u002Fdoi\u002Ffull\u002F10.1080\u002F09518967.2019.1595885\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econtinued to use the baths at Baiae\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But by the time Giovanni Boccaccio described it in a 1344 novel – “no sight under the sun is more beautiful or more pleasant than this”, he wrote – Baiae’s great baths and villas had fallen into ruin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBecause of bradyseism, many were also underwater. Over the last 2,000 years, much of the site has sunk between 4-6m; in some places, it’s up to 10m. About 50% of built-up area is now thought to be under the sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome of the artefacts were covered by sand, hiding them from humans and animals alike. But others weren’t so lucky. There are stories of fishermen casting their nets and hauling in ancient sculptures, and of precious objects passing into the black market. Because no-one could be sure exactly how many objects were actually within the site, no-one can be sure how much has been looted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is not a normal archaeological park","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2002, the 177-hectare underwater site was made a Marine Protected Area. While licensed scuba divers can explore the site, they must do so with one of the registered local dive shops and guides, who see themselves as the first defenders of their heritage. Today, archaeologists are less worried about looting. But other challenges remain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This is not a normal archaeological park,” Stefanile said. “You cannot put a fence around it. You cannot close it. It’s always open. And it’s exposed to marine life, to the waves, to the tides, and to the human presence.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBarbara Davidde, Stefanile’s boss and the director of the unit of underwater archaeology at Italy’s Central Institute for Restoration, has been working at Baiae since 1993. One of the main problems for the artefacts underwater, she says, is marine life. Bacteria, bivalves, sponges – a dizzying variety of organisms not only make their home in the sea but have a penchant for stone and marble materials.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“If you leave these artefacts open (for example, uncovered by sand), the marine organisms immediately start to colonise, and to live on, the surface. They start to destroy and attack the materials,” she said. Later, at her lab in Rome, Davidde showed me what she meant: while a mosaic might look undisturbed to the naked eye, under a microscope each was a web of holes and divots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt the Archaeological Museum of Campi Flegrei, one piece of artwork after another shows the damage animals can do. While it’s common to see ancient Roman statues missing arms or heads, the items in this collection are different. A veiled woman has been so disfigured, she looks as formless as a ghost; a base with a dedication to Emperor Hadrian loses all shape at the top, like a half-melted candle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMy favourite, however, is a 74cm statue of Zeus on his throne. Dating to the 1st Century BC, his right side is covered with what looks like white scrawlings, the remnants of marine encrustations. Holes that start to dot his torso turn his right arm into a handless sponge. His other side – which was presumably buried in sand – is practically pristine, the folds of his toga still sharp.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Zeus was likely stolen by looters. He wound up in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.latimes.com\u002Fentertainment\u002Farts\u002Fla-et-cm-getty-repatriation-20170613-story.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecollection of the J Paul Getty Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Los Angeles, acquired by a curator later indicted for conspiracy to traffic in illegal antiquities. He was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmediterraneoantico.it\u002Farticoli\u002Fzeus-in-trono-ritorna-a-casa-dal-getty-museum-ai-campi-flegrei\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereturned to the Campi Flegrei museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2018. The other sculptures in the museum are now safe from marine organisms. But the artefacts that remain below the sea, including the precious floors that make up the largest collection of underwater Roman mosaics the world, remain at risk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We have to find a way to protect the site","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“I don't think that you can find any other archaeological site in the world like Baiae,” Davidde said. “We have to find a way to protect the site.” \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.progettomusas.eu\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMusas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an interdisciplinary project led by Davidde to adapt new technologies for underwater sites, is doing just that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E*\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELocated in the shadow of Monte Nuovo, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.centrosubcampiflegrei.it\u002F\"\u003ECentro Sub Campi Flegrei dive centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was bustling on the day I was there. A dozen researchers, engineers and archaeologists were setting up equipment – which today included not only scuba tanks and gear, but waterproof tablets, cables and even an underwater drone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOverseeing it all was Chiara Petrioli, professor of computer science at the University of Rome La Sapienza and Musas’s scientific coordinator. She is behind one of the more ambitious aspects of Musas: its underwater wireless sensor networks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen it comes to an underwater site, a major challenge is communication. The various networks we rely on above ground – data, wifi, radio – aren’t effective in water. Wifi requires laying cables and penetrates only a couple of centimetres. Wireless optical is better but can cover only a few metres of range.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe impact on how much archaeologists are able to learn about the site, as well as how to best protect it, is enormous. Imagine you’re an underwater archaeologist excavating. Say you need a new tool. You have to rise to the surface, request it, hope they have it on the boat, and take it back down. The back-and-forth is time-intensive, and more dangerous.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps, after all that, you find a new mosaic. You start to uncover it, but all you can do is jot basic notes on a rudimentary board, perhaps take some photographs with an underwater camera. If you want to confer with anyone else, you have to wait until you’re above water. Without precise GPS, it’s also difficult to pinpoint the site’s location. When you come back a day later, the sands may have shifted, the sea floor changed. How can you be sure you’ll find it again?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe answer to all of this, scientists have found, is to try to mimic how marine mammals communicate: through sound waves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“You need to use acoustic communication,” Petrioli said. “This is really challenging, because the sea’s parameters may change.” Just as external factors can \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fenvironment\u002F2016\u002Ffeb\u002F02\u002Fships-noise-is-serious-problem-for-killer-whales-and-dolphins-report-finds\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edisturb the communication between killer whales or dolphins\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the same is true for humans using acoustic communication, too. Temperature, salinity and wind all can affect the connection between two devices. So can other sounds – a ship passing by, a jet ski. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It’s very complex, but we came up with an idea. Let's have mesh networks, like multi-rope networks, and let's use artificial intelligence techniques to keep changing the protocol we use.” If a telephone cable sends a message from A to B along a straight line, a mesh network is like a web – in this case made up of underwater wireless sensors, or nodes. When communication is sent, there are various ways it can get from point A to point B – allowing for the message to find the most efficient path to its final destination. And as the sea’s parameters change, so would the communication system. This week, the method they were testing allowed for communication over a range of up to 2km.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdl.acm.org\u002Fdoi\u002Fpdf\u002F10.1145\u002F3323679.3326632?download=true\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eunderwater wireless sensor networks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E open up a number of possibilities. Divers now can communicate in real-time, both with one another and with people above the surface, using waterproof smart tablets. Teams can pinpoint exactly where the diver – and a particular site or artefact – is located. The networks even allow data to be gathered, in real time, about the conservation status of the site – including sending images up to experts on land. And by monitoring everything from water quality to CO2 levels, they also provide extra information about the volcanic activity of Campi Flegrei.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe team was testing all of the technology when I visited, with their hope to install the sensors permanently by summer 2020. While that’s been delayed due to the global coronavirus crisis, there is still hope it will happen this year, and not just in Baiae: Musas has gotten the go-ahead to unroll the same technologies at other ancient underwater Italian sites in Puglia and Ponza.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut for now, I wasn’t sure what seemed more thrilling: the chance to finally see the underwater mosaics and ruins I’d heard so much about, or to try my hand at a technology that allowed divers to communicate like dolphins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELater that day, I back-rolled into the sea after dive guide Enzo Maione. Descending about 5m deep, we swam over a wall that once made up part of a villa. It was odd to see a ruin like this, grown over with seaweed instead of moss, fish flitting around the bricks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe were both equipped with tablets. I looked at mine. “Test,” came a message from the boat. “Test OK,” I typed back.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs we swam, statues began to appear out of the misty blue water. I paused, entranced. This was the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.parcoarcheologicosommersodibaia.it\u002Fsito.php?id_lingua=en&id=SI000029\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENymphaeum of Emperor Claudius\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a place where the 1st Century AD ruler would have strolled and admired statues. The statues here today are replicas; the originals have been moved on land for safe keeping. But it hardly mattered. Hovering in the water, looking at the statues’ faces as fish darted around us, felt ghostly and sublime.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI pressed a button on my tablet and held it up. A 3D version of how the nymphaeum would have looked appeared onscreen. This was one of the other main goals of Musas: to help divers understand the ruins they were looking at.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut the best was yet to come. Maione stopped on the sea floor and started to push the sand away. With each sweep, more of a mosaic revealed itself until we were hovering over an intricate pattern of circles and hexagons. This was once the floor of a room just off the atrium of a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F325829631_A_digital_reconstruction_of_the_sunken_Villa_con_ingresso_a_protiro_in_the_underwater_archaeological_site_of_Baiae\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emagnificent villa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, dating to the 2nd Century AD.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe’d already been down long enough that the team on the boat wanted to check in. “All OK?” I sent back a smiley face.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs we were reaching the end of our dive – an inlaid marble floor and a second mosaic later – I looked up in surprise. A large, cubic drone had descended through the water. It began to follow us, its headlights turning to look at me so seemingly intently, I felt like I’d fallen into a Pixar movie. This was one more tool in the team’s arsenal: a way for those above the water to “see” the relics below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-26"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-27"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt our final stop, the water looked strange: in small columns out of the ground, rising almost like a flame, it looked thicker, almost oily. A volcanic vent. I put my hand over it: the water was very warm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was one more reminder that we weren’t just diving in an ancient Roman resort, but a supervolcano – a volcano that could sweep all of this away in a moment’s work.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-28"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What was not possible before is now possible","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-29"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut the reason we were here at all was down to human innovation. And it was that innovation – and persistence – that now gave Baiae the chance to exist many generations into the future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI remembered what Petrioli had told me up on land, overlooking the boats being stacked with scuba tanks and cables and tablets. “Many people told us continuously, ‘You will not make it’,” she said. “We are proving them wrong. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“What was not possible before is now possible.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFilm credits:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFilmed by Pomona Pictures and underwater cameraman Roberto Rinaldi\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EReported and presented by Amanda Ruggeri\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEdited by the BBC Travel Show\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWith thanks to Musas, Centro Sub Campi Flegrei, the Archaeological Park of Campi Flegrei and the Archaeological Museum of Campi Flegrei\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ffuture-of-the-past\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFuture of the Past\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that explores important cultural heritage sites around the world that are under threat, and the innovations – both human and technological – being used to save them.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Ecalled \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea-30"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-13T00:52:01.026Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Baiae: A Roman settlement at the bottom of the sea","headlineShort":"The ‘degenerate’ city lost in the sea","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Today, a team of archaeologists and engineers are developing some surprising new technologies to protect the underwater site for future generations.","summaryShort":"It was once the ultimate holiday spot for rich and aristocratic Romans","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-07-13T00:16:30.300024Z","entity":"article","guid":"f88d9e01-6b5d-4b81-a649-0f99b90f0560","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:47:24.297559Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135636},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic","_id":"61dc9eab45ceed7c114da821","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdaniel-stables"],"bodyIntro":"Affecting travellers every year, this bizarre phenomenon sees visitors to Florence suffer psychological breakdowns after being overwhelmed by the city's abundance of great art.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGazing up at Leonardo da Vinci's Adoration of the Magi in the rarefied corridors of Florence's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.uffizi.it\u002Fen\u002Fthe-uffizi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUffizi Gallery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, I began to feel unusual. My stomach tightened and my heart raced; my knees buckled and my palms felt clammy. Were the chicken liver \u003Cem\u003Ecrostini\u003C\u002Fem\u003E from lunch coming back to bite me? Probably.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor some visitors to Florence, though, these are the symptoms of an acute illness that has nothing to do with food poisoning and everything, it would appear, to do with the city's abundance of great art.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStendhal syndrome is said to be a psychosomatic condition brought on by exposure to Florence's embarrassment of artistic riches. It takes its name from the French writer Marie-Henri Beyle, better known by the pen-name Stendhal, who, in 1817, wrote of his trip to the Tuscan capital: \"I was in a sort of ecstasy from the idea of being in Florence… I was seized with a fierce palpitation of the heart… the well-spring of life was dried up within me, and I walked in constant fear of falling to the ground.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe syndrome was clinically described as a psychiatric disorder in 1989 by Graziella Magherini, a psychiatrist at Florence's Santa Maria Nuova Hospital. Magherini observed 106 patients, all of them tourists, who experienced dizziness, palpitations, hallucinations and depersonalisation upon viewing works of art such as the sculptures of Michelangelo and the paintings of Botticelli. They were suffering \"panic attacks, caused by the psychological impact of a great masterpiece, and that of travelling,\" Magherini \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=cgIv-OpqDbs\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esaid in 2019\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECases of the syndrome continue to be reported today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc8vxt"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Florence View From Piazzale Michelangelo","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It occurs usually 10, 20 times a year in certain people who are very sensitive [and] perhaps have been waiting all their lives to come to Tuscany,\" said Simonetta Brandolini d'Adda, president of the art charity Friends of Florence. \"These iconic artworks – the Botticellis, the David – they're really overwhelming. Some people lose their bearings; it can be mind-boggling. I've often seen people start crying.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Some people lose their bearings; it can be mind-boggling. I've often seen people start crying","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBotticelli's The Birth of Venus seems to be a particular trigger. \"We've had at least one epileptic attack before the Venus,\" said Eike Schmidt, the director of the Uffizi. \"One gentleman also suffered a heart attack.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat gentleman was Carlo Olmastroni, a 68-year-old man from the Tuscan town of Bagno a Ripoli, who collapsed in the Uffizi in December 2018. \"I approached Botticelli's The Birth of Venus, and while I was admiring that wonder, my memories vanish,\" Olmastroni told me. His story was quickly taken up by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thetimes.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fbotticelli-brings-on-heart-attack-8v8h3m6hl\"\u003Emedia in Italy and abroad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and positioned as the latest high-profile example of Stendhal syndrome. However, it may more properly serve as an illustration of something else: the media's hastiness to propagate the romantic idea of Stendhal syndrome, despite it being a difficult condition to pin down. Certainly, in Olmastroni's case, something else was at play.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \"The diagnosis was not Stendhal syndrome, as some thought more romantically, but the occlusion of two coronary arteries. Perhaps, on admiring The Birth of Venus, they decided that there was nothing more beautiful to look at and contracted permanently!\" he told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThankfully, Olmastroni made a full recovery – partly thanks to a defibrillator which had been installed the day before his visit, and partly due to the nearby presence of four doctors, including two Sicilian cardiologists who happened to be visiting the Uffizi that day. He calls them his \"guardian angels\". Had he suffered his heart attack at home, it might have been a different story; perhaps, far from causing him to fall ill, Florence's treasure trove of art saved his life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc8vqm"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Masterpieces on display at the Gallerie degli Uffizi museum","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThe issue that many professionals have with describing Stendhal syndrome as its own psychiatric disorder is that its symptoms are so hard to parse from those of more general afflictions that commonly affect tourists. \"Sometimes at the Uffizi, certain visitors have heart attacks, or feel sick,\" said Cristina de Loreto, a psychotherapist who lives and works in Florence. \"But it could just be being in an enclosed space with hundreds of other people. It could be agoraphobia, not Botticelli.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing\"\u003EHow Rome's monuments are still standing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Italy most Italians don't see\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 'degenerate' city lost in the sea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAn emotional reaction to art, she said, does not constitute a psychiatric disorder, even if it leads or contributes to distressing or dangerous symptoms. \"At the moment when you're observing a piece of art, there are specific brain areas that are activated – it's like when you see a beautiful man or woman – but it isn't enough to say it's a syndrome. It's not yet validated, and you can't find it in the DSM-5, our manual of mental disorders.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDi Loreto believes that something else may be at play: that tourists' expectations of Florence are so high, fuelled by the ubiquity of its artworks in various media, that it all becomes too much when they finally visit. \"It may be a self-fulfilling prophecy, which makes some tourists feel something in the air in Florence,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn this regard, Stendhal syndrome may be related to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abc.net.au\u002Ftriplej\u002Fprograms\u002Fhack\u002Fjerusalem-syndrome\u002F9349644https:\u002Fwww.abc.net.au\u002Ftriplej\u002Fprograms\u002Fhack\u002Fjerusalem-syndrome\u002F9349644\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJerusalem syndrome\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which sees visitors to that holy city break down in psychotic religious or messianic delusions; and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002F6197921.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EParis syndrome\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which causes tourists to come down with acute psychiatric symptoms upon finding that the French capital does not match their unrealistically high expectations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStendhal's own words – \"a sort of ecstasy from the \u003Cem\u003Eidea\u003C\u002Fem\u003E of being in Florence\" – seem to lend this theory some credence. Perhaps a self-fulfilling prophecy is also at play in the media coverage of alleged cases of Stendhal syndrome, such as Olmastroni's – journalists, enchanted by the romantic idea of becoming \"art sick\", diagnose people wishfully from afar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc8vdc"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Interior of the Cathedral of Florence, Italy","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Here in Florence, as in Venice, you can breathe art,\" Paolo Molino, a psychotherapist, told me over \u003Cem\u003Elampredotto \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(tripe) sandwiches at Florence's Sant'Ambrogio Market. \"Everywhere you turn in the town centre, you stumble on something beautiful. It's like being slapped in the face.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Everywhere you turn in the town centre, you stumble on something beautiful. It's like being slapped in the face","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMolino agrees with Di Loreto, though, that it is difficult to describe Stendhal syndrome as a condition in its own right, or to separate its symptoms from those that might befall fatigued, dehydrated or otherwise overwhelmed travellers. His concern lies not so much with the question of Florence killing tourists, but rather with tourists killing Florence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Being in Florence is like being in Disneyland for art,\" he said. \"I don't like that. I like lived places – I like to come and see the lampredotto guy, to be able to walk without having to fight my way through crowds.\" Having lived in Florence since he was a schoolboy, Molino is now one of the majority of Florentines banished to live in a belt around the historical core. \"I never go to the town centre if I can avoid it,\" he said. \"It's too busy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was struck by Molino's assertion that Florence's wealth of art – which we value precisely because of what it tells us about life and the human condition – had relegated the city to no longer qualify as a \"lived place\". The comparison of the cradle of Renaissance art and humanism with Disneyland, the world's foremost symbol of corporate artifice and dumbed-down commercialism, was similarly jarring. However, it's important to remember where much of Florence's art came from.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMichelangelo and Botticelli did not carve and paint in a dark garret. They were patronised by Florence's wealthiest and most powerful people who used their artworks as a display of financial and political might. In David's original position in front of the Palazzo Vecchio, he gazed defiantly towards Rome, the seat of the encroaching Goliaths that were the Medici, an enormously powerful banking family. During the periods when they held power in Florence, it was the Medici themselves commissioning pieces like The Birth of Venus. Botticelli even included the Medici in the roles of the Three Wise Men in his paintings; and the very building that houses the Uffizi Gallery was built by the same family. These people used art to promulgate the mythology around them, consolidating their power and creating, as the philosopher Jean Baudrillard said of the American Disneyland, a kind of hyperreality.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc8tw9"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"David of Michelangelo sculpture in Florence","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Medici are long gone, but the masterpieces they helped bestow on Florence still lend the city something of the unreal and the uncanny. However, Schmidt believes that this is not unique to Florence. \"Whenever things like this happen in Florence, it makes the papers,\" he said, \"but although it's seen as a Florentine phenomenon, the same could be true of places like Venice and Verona.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegardless, as Schmidt pointed out, art for the most part is not a health hazard, but a tonic, for body and soul. \"Generally,\" he said, \"art is good for you – good for your heart and mind.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-11T20:59:52Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Stendhal syndrome: The travel syndrome that causes panic","headlineShort":"The travel syndrome that causes panic","image":["p0bc8w20"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.7696","longitude":"11.2558","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bc8vdc"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-how-are-romes-monuments-still-standing","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Affecting travellers every year, this bizarre phenomenon sees visitors to Florence suffer psychological breakdowns after being overwhelmed by the city's abundance of great art.","summaryShort":"\"It occurs usually 10, 20 times a year\"","tag":["tag\u002Farts-architecture"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-10T21:01:24.264049Z","entity":"article","guid":"aea0ff83-b6d2-4dae-8911-a93d940bdb51","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic","modifiedDateTime":"2022-01-11T19:57:08.302932Z","project":"travel","slug":"20220110-stendhal-syndrome-the-travel-syndrome-that-causes-panic","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fitaly","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_italy_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135635},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge","_id":"6183c24d45ceed54171fe030","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Reshaping previous ideas on the story of civilisation, Gobekli Tepe in Turkey was built by a prehistoric people 6,000 years before Stonehenge.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen German archaeologist Klaus Schmidt first began excavating on a Turkish mountaintop 25 years ago, he was convinced the buildings he uncovered were unusual, even unique.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAtop a limestone plateau near Urfa called Gobekli Tepe, Turkish for \"Belly Hill\", Schmidt discovered more than 20 circular stone enclosures. The largest was 20m across, a circle of stone with two elaborately carved pillars 5.5m tall at its centre. The carved stone pillars – eerie, stylised human figures with folded hands and fox-pelt belts – weighed up to 10 tons. Carving and erecting them must have been a tremendous technical challenge for people who hadn't yet domesticated animals or invented pottery, let alone metal tools. The structures were 11,000 years old, or more, making them humanity's oldest known monumental structures, built not for shelter but for some other purpose.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The structures were 11,000 years old, or more, making them humanity's oldest known monumental structures","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter a decade of work, Schmidt reached a remarkable conclusion. When I visited his dig house in Urfa's old town in 2007, Schmidt – then working for the German Archaeological Institute – told me Gobekli Tepe could help rewrite the story of civilisation by explaining the reason humans started farming and began living in permanent settlements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe stone tools and other evidence Schmidt and his team found at the site showed that the circular enclosures had been built by hunter-gatherers, living off the land the way humans had since before the last Ice Age. Tens of thousands of animal bones that were uncovered were from wild species, and there was no evidence of domesticated grains or other plants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchmidt thought these hunter-gatherers had come together 11,500 years ago to carve Gobekli Tepe's T-shaped pillars with stone tools, using the limestone bedrock of the hill beneath their feet as a quarry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gobekli Tepe archaeological site and hilltop near Sanliurfa, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECarving and moving the pillars would have been a tremendous task, but perhaps not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The pillars are carved from the natural limestone layers of the hill's bedrock. Limestone is soft enough to work with the flint or even wood tools available at the time, given practice and patience. And because the hill's limestone formations were horizontal layers between 0.6m and 1.5m thick, archaeologists working at the site believe ancient builders just had to cut away the excess from the sides, rather than from underneath as well. Once a pillar was carved out, they then shifted it a few hundred metres across the hilltop, using rope, log beams and ample manpower.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious sercret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210629-turkeys-mysterious-portal-to-the-underworld\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETurkey's mysterious portal to the universe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchmidt thought that small, nomadic bands from across the region were motivated by their beliefs to join forces on the hilltop for periodic building projects, hold great feasts and then scatter again. The site, Schmidt argued, was a ritual centre, perhaps some sort of burial or death cult complex, rather than a settlement.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat was a big claim. Archaeologists had long thought complex ritual and organised religion were luxuries that societies developed only once they began domesticating crops and animals, a transition known as the Neolithic. Once they had a food surplus, the thinking went, they could devote their extra resources to rituals and monuments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGobekli Tepe, Schmidt told me, turned that timeline upside down. The stone tools at the site, backed up by radiocarbon dates, placed it firmly in the pre-Neolithic era. More than 25 years after the first excavations there, there is still no evidence for domesticated plants or animals. And Schmidt didn't think anyone lived at the site full-time. He called it a \"cathedral on a hill\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"More than 25 years after the first excavations there, there is still no evidence for domesticated plants or animals.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf that was true, it showed that complex ritual and social organisation actually came before settlement and agriculture. Over the course of 1,000 years, the demands of gathering nomadic bands together in one place to carve and move huge T-pillars and build the circular enclosures prompted people to take the next step: to regularly host large gatherings, people needed to make food supplies more predictable and dependable by domesticating plants and animals. Ritual and religion, it seemed, launched the Neolithic Revolution.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe next day, I drove with Schmidt to the hilltop before dawn. I wandered, mystified and awestruck, among the pillars as Schmidt, his head wrapped in a white cloth to protect it from the blazing sun, oversaw a small team of German archaeologists and workers from the small village down the road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gobekli Tepe archaeological site near Sanliurfa, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lonelyplanet.com\u002Fturkey\u002Fthe-black-sea-and-northeastern-anatolia\u002Fsanliurfa-urfa\u002Fattractions\u002Fsanliurfa-archaeology-museum\u002Fa\u002Fpoi-sig\u002F1495704\u002F360911\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ESchmidt had just published his first reports on Gobekli Tepe the year before, setting the small world of Neolithic archaeology experts abuzz. But the site still had a sleepy, forgotten feel, with excavation areas covered by makeshift corrugated steel roofs and potholed dirt roads winding up to the mountaintop dig site from the valley below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESchmidt's take on the site's striking T-pillars and large, round \"special buildings\" captivated colleagues and journalists when they were first published in the mid-2000s. Breathless media reports called the site the birthplace of religion; the German magazine Der Spiegel compared the fertile grasslands around the site to the Garden of Eden.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESoon, people from around the world were flocking to see Gobekli Tepe for themselves. Within a decade, the hilltop was totally transformed. Until the civil war in nearby Syria disrupted tourism in the region in 2012, work on the site often slowed to a crawl as busloads of curious tourists crowded around open excavation trenches to see what some were calling the world's first temple and made it impossible to manoeuvre wheelbarrows on the narrow paths.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the past five years, the mountaintop on the outskirts of Urfa has been reshaped once again. Today, roads and car parks and a visitor's centre can accommodate curious travellers from around the world. In 2017, corrugated steel sheds were replaced by a state-of-the art, swooping fabric-and-steel shelter covering the central monumental buildings. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lonelyplanet.com\u002Fturkey\u002Fthe-black-sea-and-northeastern-anatolia\u002Fsanliurfa-urfa\u002Fattractions\u002Fsanliurfa-archaeology-museum\u002Fa\u002Fpoi-sig\u002F1495704\u002F360911\"\u003EŞanlıurfa Archaeology and Mosaic Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, built in 2015 in central Urfa, is one of Turkey's largest museums; it features a full-scale replica of the site's largest enclosure and its imposing T-pillars, allowing visitors to get a feel for the monumental pillars and examine their carvings up close.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2018, Gobekli Tepe was added to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1572\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage register\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and Turkish tourism officials declared 2019 the \"Year of Gobekli Tepe\", making the ancient site the face of its global promotion campaign. \"I still remember the site as a remote place on a mountaintop,\" said Jens Notroff, a German Archaeological Institute archaeologist who began working at the site as a student in the mid-2000s. \"It's changed completely.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Detail of animal sculpture at the Göbekli Tepe archaeological site","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESchmidt, who died in 2014, didn't live to see the site's transformation from dusty mountaintop dig to major tourist attraction. But his discoveries there spurred global interest in the Neolithic transition – and in the last few years, new discoveries at Gobekli Tepe and closer looks at the results of earlier excavations are upending Schmidt's initial interpretations of the site itself. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWork on foundations needed to support the site's swooping fabric canopy required archaeologists to dig deeper that Schmidt ever had. Under the direction of Schmidt's successor, Lee Clare, a German Archaeological Institute team dug several \"keyhole\" trenches down to the site's bedrock, several metres below the floors of the large buildings. \"We had a unique chance,\" Clare said, \"to go look in the lowest layers and deposits of the site.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"New discoveries at Gobekli Tepe and closer looks at the results of earlier excavations are upending Schmidt's initial interpretations of the site","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hurriyetdailynews.com\u002Fturkey-discovers-new-sites-near-famed-gobeklitepe-165875\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EWhat Clare and his colleagues found may rewrite prehistory yet again. The digs revealed evidence of houses and year-round settlement, suggesting that Gobekli Tepe wasn't an isolated temple visited on special occasions but a rather a thriving village with large special buildings at its centre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe team also identified a large cistern and channels for collecting rainwater, key to supporting a settlement on the dry mountaintop, and thousands of grinding tools for processing grain for cooking porridge and brewing beer. \"Gobekli Tepe is still a unique, special site, but the new insights fit better with what we know from other sites,\" Clare said. \"It was a fully-fledged settlement with permanent occupation. It's changed our whole understanding of the site.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hurriyetdailynews.com\u002Fturkey-discovers-new-sites-near-famed-gobeklitepe-165875\"\u003ETurkish archaeologists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E working in the rugged countryside around Urfa have identified at least a dozen other hill-top sites with similar – if smaller – T-pillars, dating from around the same time period. \"It's not a unique temple,\" said Austrian Archaeological Institute researcher Barbara Horejs, an expert on the Neolithic who was not part of the recent research efforts. \"That makes the story much more interesting and exciting.\" Turkish Culture and Tourism Minister Mehmet Nuri Ersoy went as far as saying that this area could be referred to as the \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hurriyetdailynews.com\u002Fturkey-discovers-new-sites-near-famed-gobeklitepe-165875\"\u003Epyramids of south-east Turkey\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Gobekli Tepe archaeological site near Sanliurfa, Turkey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERather than a centuries-long building project inspiring the transition to farming, Clare and others now think Gobekli Tepe was an attempt by hunter-gatherers clinging to their vanishing lifestyle as the world changed around them. Evidence from the surrounding region shows people at other sites were experimenting with domesticated animals and plants – a trend the people of \"Belly Hill\" might have been resisting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EClare argues the site's stone carvings are an important clue. Elaborate carvings of foxes, leopards, serpents and vultures covering Gobekli Tepe's pillars and walls \"aren't animals you see every day,\" he said. \"They're more than just pictures, they're narratives, which are very important in keeping groups together and creating a shared identity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I first wandered across the site more than 15 years ago, I remember a feeling of great distance. Gobekli Tepe was built 6,000 years before Stonehenge, and the exact meaning of its carvings – like the world the people there once inhabited – is impossible to fathom.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat, of course, is part of the Gobekli Tepe's tremendous magnetism. As thousands of visitors marvel at a place most people had never heard of a decade ago, researchers will continue trying to understand why it was built in the first place. And each new discovery promises to change what we now know about the site and the story of human civilisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The new work isn't destroying Klaus Schmidt's thesis; it stands on his shoulders,\" said Horejs. \"There's been a huge gain of knowledge, in my view. The interpretation is changing, but that's what science is about.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-16T21:51:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"An immense mystery older than Stonehenge","headlineShort":"An immense mystery 11,000 years old","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Central monumental buildings of Göbekli Tepe under swooping fabric-and-steel shelter","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"37.2232","longitude":"38.9224","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Central monumental buildings of Göbekli Tepe under swooping fabric-and-steel shelter","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Reshaping previous ideas on the story of civilisation, Gobekli Tepe in Turkey was built by a prehistoric people 6,000 years before Stonehenge.","summaryShort":"It has reshaped previous ideas on the story of civilisation","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-15T21:52:56.195374Z","entity":"article","guid":"da2379c5-f167-40ee-bf15-174c2b59c7e4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:12:40.479067Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135636},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival","_id":"6183c25045ceed5b5e4e48d1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Tikal was the economic and ceremonial hub of the Maya civilisation. But its stone palaces and temples would never have been constructed without mastery over one vital substance.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStanding in the ancient Mayan city of Tikal in Guatemala, visitors are surrounded by steep limestone pyramids nearly as tall as Notre Dame cathedral while the calls of howler monkeys and toucans emanate from the site's rainforest backdrop. Constructed without the aid of beasts of burden, metal tools or the wheel, these grandiose stoneworks served as the seats of power for the kings and priests who ruled over what was one of the most influential city states in the Maya realm, which spanned Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, Guatemala, Belize as well as portions of Honduras and El Salvador.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETikal was an economic and ceremonial hub of a civilisation that, in light of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200914-in-guatemala-the-maya-world-untouched-for-centuries\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecent laser-based aerial surveys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that revealed more than 60,000 structures hidden for centuries by thick jungle, may have once encompassed as many as 10 to 15 million people in total.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the presence of Tikal's massive stone palaces and temples, each one oriented to attend to the sun's daily transit across the sky, the Maya's prowess as architects and astronomers looms large. But the Maya never would have accurately predicted eclipses and these monuments never would have risen up towards the sky without the mastery of something much more elemental to Mayan survival at Tikal: water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith no rivers or lakes nearby, the Maya had to create a network of huge reservoirs at Tikal to collect and store enough rainwater during the region's prodigious wet season to last its sizable population – estimates range from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-021-91620-6#ref-CR1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E40,000\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to as many as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fscience.sciencemag.org\u002Fcontent\u002F361\u002F6409\u002Feaau0137\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E240,000\u003C\u002Fa\u003E people at the city's 8th Century peak – through the four- to six-month dry season. These reservoirs facilitated more than 1,000 years of Mayan presence at Tikal, from roughly 600 BC until the site's urban core was finally abandoned by the ruling class around 900 AD.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELast year, archaeologists using modern scientific techniques \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-75023-7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erevealed a new depth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the Maya's hydrological feats. Sediment cores taken from Tikal's reservoirs show that the Maya created the oldest known water filtration system in the western hemisphere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Stone geometrical art design engraved at Tikal, Guatemala","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Maya's water purification system was so advanced that one of its key materials, zeolite, is still widely used in water filters today. Zeolites are a type of volcanic mineral made mostly of aluminium, silicon and oxygen that forms when volcanic ash reacts with alkaline groundwater. They come in many forms and have unique physical and chemical properties that allow them to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwcponline.com\u002F2021\u002F03\u002F15\u002Fzeolite-a-superior-water-purification-material\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efilter out contaminants ranging from heavy metals to tiny microbes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Individual zeolite grains have a porous, cage-like structure, which makes them excellent physical filters, and they are also negatively charged, which means other elements will readily bind to them. This means that when water passes through zeolites, suspended particles can get physically or chemically stuck to the grains of zeolite while the water keeps flowing through the gaps.   \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200914-in-guatemala-the-maya-world-untouched-for-centuries\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya world untouched for centuries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwiterland's gravity-defying solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180619-irans-ancient-engineering-marvel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIran's ancient engineering marvel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough archaeologists only found zeolites in one of Tikal's reservoirs, now referred to as Corriental, shards of clay vessels found there suggest the purified waters of Corriental were used specifically for drinking. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe researchers behind this discovery say the Mayan use of zeolite is the oldest known use of the mineral for water purification in the world, predating its next appearance in a sand filtration system developed by British scientist \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-75023-7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERobert Bacon in 1627\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by roughly 1,800 years. The Maya's zeolite-powered water filtration system, which scholars say looks to have first been constructed around 164 BC, is predated by a cloth filter known as the Hippocratic sleeve that was developed in ancient Greece around 500 BC, but the Maya's method would have been far more effective at removing invisible contaminants such as bacteria or lead. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm Native American and I've always been bothered that archaeologists and anthropologists have traditionally assumed that the Indigenous people of the Americas did not develop the technological muscle that was found elsewhere in the ancient world in places like Greece, Egypt, India or China,\" said Kenneth Tankersley, an archaeological geologist at the University of Cincinnati and lead author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-75023-7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E documenting the Maya's use of zeolite. \"This system provided the Maya with safe drinking water for more than 1,000 years and other filtration systems known from that era were primitive by comparison – the early Greek filtration method was just bags of cloth.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I've always been bothered that archaeologists and anthropologists have traditionally assumed that the Indigenous people of the Americas did not develop the technological muscle that was found elsewhere in the ancient world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-67044-z\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ETikal is located in what is now northern Guatemala, and in this part of the world there are only two seasons: very wet and very dry. To make matters even more challenging, the wet season's torrential downpours swiftly drain away because, as rainwater seeps through the thin topsoil, it becomes acidic enough to dissolve the calcium-rich limestone that makes up the region's bedrock. This creates what geologists call a karst landscape riddled with sinkholes and caves where the water table is roughly \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-67044-z\"\u003E200m below the surface\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, well out of the Maya's reach.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWithout bodies of freshwater nearby to draw from, residents of this Central American metropolis had to devise ways of making water last when it arrived in the wet season. That's where the reservoirs came in – and because Tikal is centred around a hillock, the Maya were able to artfully utilise the slopes to funnel water into those reservoirs. Even the great central plaza, which sits between Temples One and Two and is flanked by the main acropolis, is paved with huge stones that were all placed at just the right incline to drain water into canals that emptied into the nearby Temple and Palace reservoirs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tikal ruins emerging out of dense rainforest","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EModern visitors to Tikal will need to make an extra effort to locate the reservoirs, which live on today mostly as depressions in the soil, but some of the dams and earthen berms used to impound the vast quantities of water that once slaked the city's thirst are still evident to the informed observer. The Palace reservoir is estimated to have once stored \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fscience.sciencemag.org\u002Fcontent\u002F361\u002F6409\u002Feaau0137\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E31 million litres of water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and the zeolite-purified \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-75023-7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECorriental is thought to have had a 58-million-litre capacity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in its heyday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe discovery of Corriental's filtration system emerged from fieldwork conducted around 2010, when researchers collected 10 core samples of sediment from four of Tikal's reservoirs. These cores revealed that dangerous levels of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-67044-z#ref-CR2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econtamination from the heavy metal mercury and the tell-tale signs of toxic algal blooms plagued the Palace and Temple reservoirs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E near Tikal's core around the time the ruling elites abandoned the city centree in the 9th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut almost as striking as the contamination itself was the fact that the Corriental reservoir stayed virtually pristine even as the Palace and Temple reservoirs grew toxic. When Tankersley looked more closely at the Corriental samples, he found four discrete layers of sand that featured bits of crystalline quartz and zeolites that didn't appear in any of the other reservoirs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen the team surveyed the surrounding area there were no natural sources of this type of sand, let alone zeolites, leading the researchers to suggest the material had been intentionally brought in for use in some kind of filter at the entrance to the reservoir.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy chance, one of the researchers on the project knew of a depression some 30km northeast of Tikal featuring similar-looking sand that is known as Bajo de Azúcar, which locals had told him has crystal-clear, sweet-tasting water. Testing revealed that Bajo de Azúcar's rocks and sand did contain zeolites and thus could have been Tikal's source for the zeolites at Corriental.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mayan gate in Tikal, Guatemala","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Without a time machine we don' know what happened exactly,\" said Tankersley, \"but it doesn' take a lot of deduction to imagine someone from Tikal thinking: 'If sweet, clean water is coming out of this crystalline volcanic tuff, maybe we could break some off and use it to make our water clean as well.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Maya may not have understood what the zeolite in particular was doing, but they understood the importance of keeping water clean","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe researchers hypothesise that the zeolite sand might have been sandwiched between layers of woven plant leaves called \u003Cem\u003Epetates\u003C\u002Fem\u003E to make filters. Those filters might have then been embedded in porous walls of limestone bricks that the Maya installed in the path of the water flowing into the reservoir. According to the study detailing the Maya's use of zeolite, sand by itself would have made the water look clear, but wouldn't have had any impact on microbes or mercury. With the addition of zeolite, the Maya got clear water that was also clean even by modern standards.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Maya may not have understood what the zeolite in particular was doing, but they understood the importance of keeping water clean,\" said Lisa Lucero, an anthropologist at the University of Illinois who was not involved in the paper, \"and they employed their technology and their knowledge of the environment to purify their drinking water.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe four layers of zeolite-containing sand suggest that the filter was blasted out by flood waters during particularly violent rainy seasons and subsequently rebuilt several times over.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough Corriental is the only place that this Mayan zeolite filtration system has been found, that doesn't rule out its use elsewhere. Liwy Grazioso, director of Guatemala's Miraflores Museum and co-author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41598-020-67044-z#ref-CR2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that discovered the contamination of the Palace and Temple reservoirs, says she hopes this finding will encourage more study of Mayan reservoirs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A partially excavated Mayan pyramid at Tikal with jungle stil covering parts of it","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I don't think Tikal was the only place with this technology,\" said Grazioso. \"Reservoirs were everywhere in the Maya world and only a handful have been studied, but if we don't study them, we'll never know.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Tankersley, these discoveries showcase the riches that can be found when researchers look beyond shiny material artefactse made of gold or jade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe suggests that visitors to Tikal should not just marvel at the structures, but also contemplate the people who built them 1,000 or even 2,000 years ago without machines or pack animals. \"Think about what their accomplishments were,\" he said, \"and remember that this is not an extinct people, those accomplishments are the heritage of Central America's modern Indigenous population.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-09T22:02:04Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Maya's ingenious secret to survival","headlineShort":"The Maya's ingenious secret to survival","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mayan ruins at Tikal National Park, Guatemala","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"17.2220","longitude":"89.6237","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Mayan ruins at Tikal National Park, Guatemala","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Tikal was the economic and ceremonial hub of the Maya civilisation. But its stone palaces and temples would never have been constructed without mastery over one vital substance.","summaryShort":"It proves the Indigenous people of the Americas were highly technological","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-08T22:11:47.629403Z","entity":"article","guid":"e7a89b55-d801-4839-87f9-e6cfdb392df8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-23T04:07:10.260363Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135638},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities","_id":"6183c26145ceed612a09de86","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Constructed using natural materials, Yemeni high-rises are superbly sustainable and perfectly suited to the hot and dry Arabian desert climate.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStepping through Bab-al-Yaman, the enormous gate allowing access into Yemen's old walled city of Sana'a, was like stepping through a portal into another world. Tall, skinny buildings were crammed into the narrow lanes that connected lush fruit and vegetable gardens with the ancient souq where donkeys are still sold. I saw locksmiths mending enormous metal keys that open imposing wooden doors; a vendor selling prickly pears from a cart, and the local baker pulling fresh bread from a hot-glowing hole in the ground. In a tiny room, a camel trudged in tight circles powering a millstone crushing sesame seeds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut despite all the visual stimulus, it was the architecture that dominated the scene.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESana'a is filled with buildings unlike anywhere else in the world. At street level, where mud-brick walls are only broken up by large wooden doors, there was often not much to see. But when I looked up, I realised these slender buildings, some with just one or two rooms to a floor, soared high into the sky. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the lower floors, at street level, were windowless due to their use as animal shelters or working spaces, the ornate windows higher up were either covered by stained-glass or by delicate \u003Cem\u003Emashrabiya\u003C\u002Fem\u003E screens screens protecting the privacy of the women inside. The window frames and the friezes between the floors were marked in intricate white lime to contrast the mud-coloured background, creating a gingerbread house effect. Many had rooftop terraces, which doubled as entertainment spaces as well as outdoor bedrooms on warm nights. The magnificence of the buildings, together with their simple practicality, made for an inspiring architectural vision.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom the alleyway, it was practically impossible to appreciate the true height of these buildings, but when I reached the souq, I could see that some were up to seven storeys high. I climbed up to a seventh-floor rooftop that had been converted into a cafe; the Old Town lay below me, but the neighbouring buildings were mostly as tall as the one I was on, evoking the strange sensation of being surrounded by skyscrapers. I could almost have been in Dubai or New York, only that these constructions were somewhere between 300 and 500 years old and built from mud. Some of Yemen's skyscrapers can reach up to around 30m in height, and the first modern skyscrapers in Chicago were only slightly taller than that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Two women in traditional clothing in the old town of Sana'a, Yemen","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYemen is scattered with similar soaring constructions, from those in smaller villages to bigger towns, such as the famous Shibam, dubbed in the 1930s \"The Manhattan of the Desert\" by Anglo-Italian explorer Dame Freya Stark; or the exquisitely decorated Dar-al-Hajar, the Imam's Palace of the Rock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Yemeni skyscraper style of architecture is so unique that the cities of Zabid, Shibam and the Old City of Sana'a have been recognised as Unesco World Heritage sites, with the tradition dating at least to the 8th and 9th Centuries, according to Trevor Marchand, professor of social anthropology at London's School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS) and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cambridge.org\u002Fcore\u002Fjournals\u002Fjournal-of-the-royal-asiatic-society\u002Farticle\u002Fabs\u002Farchitectural-heritage-of-yemen-buildings-that-fill-my-eye-edited-by-trevor-h-j-marchand-foreword-by-shaykh-mohamed-bin-issa-aljaber-pp-231-london-gingko-library-2017\u002F14EF802062E1D913620BFDEABFD29A8B\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArchitectural Heritage of Yemen - Buildings That Fill My Eye\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Exact dating is next to impossible, as these mud brick or adobe buildings need to be constantly patched up and restored to keep them from succumbing to the harsh elements, but \"medieval sources tell us that the Ghumdam Palace in Sana'a, allegedly built in the 3rd Century BC and the seat of Yemen's ancient Sabaean rulers, was 20 storeys high and elaborately decorated,\" Marchand said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious secret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20130430-stepping-back-in-time-in-socotra\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStepping back in time in Socotra\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn immense mystery 11,000 years old\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat makes the Yemeni skyscrapers so unique is that they are still in use, just as they were hundreds of years ago. In the Old Town of Sana'a, for example, while a few have been converted into hotels and cafes, the majority are still used as private residences. \"As children, we would play soccer in the tight alleyways and as teens we would sip coffee under the bright stained glass,\" said Arwa Mokdad, peace advocate for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyemenfoundation.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYemen Relief and Reconstruction Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I travelled around the country, marvelling at these skyscaper cities, I could not help but wonder why the Yemenis built these high-rises, considering the vast desert expanses of their country. Salma Samar Damluji, architect and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hachette.com.au\u002Fsalma-samar-damluji\u002Fthe-architecture-of-yemen-its-reconstruction\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Architecture of Yemen and its Reconstruction\u003C\u002Fa\u003E told me that construction was, in fact, traditionally restricted to small sites, meaning buildings needed to be vertical. \"Towns and cities had an outer wall, called Sur, and a further boundary from the desert,\" she said, explaining that not only were the wall and the surrounding desert a barrier to any urban development, but any agriculturally viable space was deemed too valuable to build on, so that building upwards, in tightly formed clusters, was the preferred option.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was also the need for protection that made Yemen's settlements huddle together rather than sprawl across the land. Living in an inhospitable desert, security and the ability to look out across the land for approaching enemies, together with the ability to lock the cities' gates at night, had to be considered in any town planning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Palace of Dar al-Haja, Yemen","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"An important contributing factor to Yemen's history of tower-house was the need for security against invading forces, as well as during times of local tribal dispute or civil war,\" Marchand explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EConstructed using natural materials, Yemeni high-rises are superbly sustainable and perfectly suited to the hot and dry Arabian desert climate. Roof terraces double as open-air bedrooms, while screens on the windows invite even the slightest breeze to enter the house, while also allowing light but not too much heat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Unbaked earth is an exceptional thermal mass,\" added Ronald Rael, professor of architecture at UC Berkeley who specialises in buildings made from mud, and is himself living in his great grandfather's adobe house in southern Colorado. He explained that \"it both absorbs and releases heat slowly. During the day, as the sun beats upon the wall, the heat from the sun slowly absorbs into the wall. As night falls, that heat is slowly released, [helping] earthen buildings remain a comfortable temperature.\" This simple natural effect has made adobe building still popular today and explains the endurance of Yemen's mud-architecture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIncredibly, construction usually didn't use scaffolding. Instead, master builders would start with a stone foundation, often some 2m deep, upon which mud bricks were laid in a running bond, meaning one brick is overlapped by two above. They then slowly built upwards, placing wooden joists for strength and adding floors made from wood and palm materials as they went higher up. Scaffolding was generally only used at a later date, once the house was finished and needed replastering or restoration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, according to Damluji, these building skills are on the brink of extinction. \"We are looking at structures that can stand for up to 300 years and more. Six and seven storey buildings built out of sun-dried mud brick in a way that no contemporary architect can build today.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A city of skyscrapers in the middle of Hadramaut valley, Shibam, Yemen","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo prevent this knowledge from being lost, Damluji works closely with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dawanarchitecturefoundation.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDawan Architecture Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is striving to preserve these methods of building, encouraging the use of traditional materials and methods over modern convenience.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I cannot begin to describe the pride of living in a home preserved by generations of ancestors – they are our connection to the past","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe historical buildings are also under threat from constant wind erosion, war and the economic struggles that prevent families from looking after their fragile homes properly. In 2020, Unesco surveyed some 8,000 of these architectural marvels and restored 78 that were on the brink of collapse. Unesco is doing its utmost to save as many buildings as possible, but it is difficult under the current circumstances.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It is a harrowing experience to witness history turn into rubble,\" said Mokdad. \"This destruction is a loss for all of humanity.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe added: \"Anywhere else, these buildings would be museum pieces, but in Yemen they remain homes. I cannot begin to describe the pride of living in a home preserved by generations of ancestors – they are our connection to the past.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-05T05:57:33Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Yemen's ancient, soaring skyscraper cities","headlineShort":"Yemen's ancient skyscraper cities","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mud houses in Sanaa in Yemen","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"15.3694","longitude":"44.1910","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Mud houses in Sanaa in Yemen","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Constructed using natural materials, Yemeni high-rises are superbly sustainable and perfectly suited to the hot and dry Arabian desert climate.","summaryShort":"Incredibly, construction usually didn't use scaffolding","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-04T19:55:26.926242Z","entity":"article","guid":"901297cb-8d9c-4b80-a06d-8a068643e471","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-05T12:56:30.904639Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135637},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge","_id":"61dae91245ceed150c753f81","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdebbie-olsen"],"bodyIntro":"Built by ancient Indigenous People and long considered to be sacred, the Iniskim Umaapi medicine wheel in Alberta is one of the oldest religious monuments in the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAbout a year into the Covid-19 pandemic, Laura Sitting Eagle was feeling unwell. The Blackfoot Elder, who resides on Siksika 146 – a First Nations reserve of the Siksika Nation in southern Alberta, 87km south-east of Calgary – went to see her doctor and was informed that anxiety was the issue. With a daughter working as a frontline healthcare worker and a school vice-principal son, she was worried for the health of her family and the stress was affecting her own wellbeing. She realised that she needed to get emotional, spiritual, physical and mental balance. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs her ancestors before her had done, she found relief in making a trek to the medicine wheel called Iniskim Umaapi to pray and make a spiritual offering.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the oldest religious monuments in the world, the medicine wheel sits on a windswept hill far from any signs of civilisation. It consists of a central cairn surrounded by 28 radiating stone lines that are encircled by another large ring of stones measuring 27m in diameter. The Blackfoot have many names for it, but the current commonly accepted name is Iniskim Umaapi, which means \"buffalo calling stones sacred site\". European colonists named the stone circle Majorville Medicine Wheel, after the Majorville post office and general store that was once nearby. Settlers called these structures medicine wheels because they resemble wagon wheels and are considered sacred sites by Indigenous People. Regardless of their name, these enigmatic geoglyphs are shrouded in mystery – Iniskim Umaapi more so than any others.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMedicine wheels are scattered across the Northern Plains, in Montana, Wyoming, Saskatchewan and Alberta, but Iniskim Umaapi is the oldest-known one in the world. Archaeological studies estimate the ancient stone circle to be about 5,000 years old – dating roughly the same time as the first phase of construction of Stonehenge. Located on England's Salisbury Plain, Stonehenge is thousands of kilometres and an ocean apart from Iniskim Umaapi. The fact that both stone circles are ancient and have mysterious purposes and origins led to Iniskim Umaapi being dubbed \"Canada's Stonehenge\" by Gordon R Freeman, professor emeritus at the University of Alberta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc8m2z"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Two people looking at Iniskim Umaapi, Majorville Medicine Wheel in Alberta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnlike Stonehenge, Insikim Umaapi is not easy to find. My husband and I got lost on our first attempt to reach the medicine wheel. It is surrounded by public land and sits on a high hill near a vast coulee carved by the Bow River. A maze of rough dirt roads – some with no trespassing signs – leads to the sacred site. We finally got there with the assistance of Indigenous guides from nearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.blackfootcrossing.ca\u002Findex.html\"\u003EBlackfoot Crossing Historical Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a museum and attraction dedicated to the promotion and preservation of the Siksika Nation’s language, culture and traditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe wind blasted across the prairie grass as we climbed to the lichen-covered stones at the top of the hill. Since I hadn't brought an offering, one of the guides gave me a piece of Bannock bread to lay on the stones in the central cairn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn immense mystery older than Stonehenge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious secret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYemen's ancient skyscraper cities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his book, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com.au\u002Fbooks\u002Fabout\u002FCanada_s_Stonehenge.html?id=qvMhOAAACAAJ&redir_esc=y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada's Stonehenge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Freeman postulates that Iniskim Umaapi was part of a vast, open-air sun temple. He believes the stone circle was used as a calendar to mark the changing seasons and phases of the moon. \"These discoveries show that genius existed on the North American Plains 5,000 years ago and probably much earlier than that,\" Freeman wrote. He also described the site as \"the most intricate stone ring that remains on the North American Plains\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFreeman spent years studying this stone circle and other geoglyphs around the world. He estimates that he and his wife Phyllis spent a total of seven months living at Iniskim Umaapi over his many years of study, visiting the stone circle in every season and photographing it at both sunrise and sunset. He says that four of the 28 radiating stone lines in the circle correspond to the cardinal points of the compass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc8m62"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Iniskim Umaapi, Majorville Medicine Wheel in Alberta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIniskim Umaapi is situated on one of the highest hills in the region. On a clear day, you can see for about 100km in every direction when you're standing inside the circle. The site is surrounded by grasslands, and there are stones outside the circle on at least two other high hilltops. While some archaeologists interpret the placement of the stones outside the main circle as the random results of a glacial moraine, Freeman believes they were carefully placed there. Taken all together, he believes they represent the sun, the crescent moon, the morning star and constellations. According to Freeman, the rising and setting sun on both the longest and shortest days of the year line up with rocks inside and outside the circle. The spring and autumn equinoxes, when day and night are equal, are similarly marked with uncanny accuracy and the 28 radiating lines inside the circle correspond to the length of the lunar cycle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFreeman has spent more time researching this ancient stone circle than any other scientist, but some archaeologists don't agree with his sun temple theories, despite compelling research and photographs. In fact, the exact purpose of Iniskim Umaapi is something scientists have not been able to agree upon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's a healing place that helped me gain the courage and strength I needed","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.northernc.on.ca\u002Findigenous\u002Ffour-sacred-medicines\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EHowever, the Blackfoot also see the stone circle as having four quadrants. The number four is one of the most significant numbers in Blackfoot culture, because it represents many things including the four cardinal directions, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.northernc.on.ca\u002Findigenous\u002Ffour-sacred-medicines\u002F\"\u003Efour sacred medicines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the four human needs. To Laura Sitting Eagle, the four quadrants of the medicine wheel represent emotional, physical, mental and spiritual wellbeing. The ancient stone circle is a place to find balance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Medicine wheels are sacred,\" she said. I went there to give an offering and it really helped me. It's a healing place that helped me gain the courage and strength I needed.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe greatest mystery of Iniskim Umaapi centres on its purpose, but there are also questions about the people who built it. Five thousand years ago, the original builders may have been ancestors of the Blackfoot People or they may have been another ancient Indigenous People who occupied the area. Regardless, the Blackfoot who have lived on this land since time immemorial have long used the ancient stone circle as a ceremonial site.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bc8m7p"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Close up of rocks at Iniskim Umaapi, Majorville Medicine Wheel in Alberta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"To ordinary people, the rocks in the medicine wheel are just rocks, but to us they are alive,\" explained Gerald Sitting Eagle, a Siksika Elder and husband to Laura. \"The rocks give us life and the four directions and the signs in the medicine wheel mean different things to different people. The rocks piled up in the middle look like a Sweat Lodge and some say the stone ring resembles a Sun Dance Lodge. There are many different stories about the purpose of the medicine wheel, but we know it is a place to look for the creator's help.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"To ordinary people, the rocks in the medicine wheel are just rocks, but to us they are alive","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough I have Indigenous ancestors, I didn't know how to pray in the Blackfoot way when I stood inside the ancient medicine wheel. I sat and pondered about how I could achieve better balance in my life, and when I placed my small offering next to others on the stones, I felt a sense of awe and humility.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike Stonehenge, we may never know exactly how or why Iniskim Umaapi was built. But all who spend time at the geoglyph agree that there is symbolism and power in this ancient stone circle – something that can only be felt and cannot be quantified. The Blackfoot Nation has recognised it for thousands of years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-10T13:51:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Iniskim Umaapi: Is this Canada's 'Stonehenge'?","headlineShort":"Is this Canada's 'Stonehenge'?","image":["p0bc8m0j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.6304","longitude":"112.7059","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bc8m0j"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210815-an-immense-mystery-older-than-stonehenge","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Built by ancient Indigenous People and long considered to be sacred, the Iniskim Umaapi medicine wheel in Alberta is one of the oldest religious monuments in the world.","summaryShort":"It's one of the oldest religious monuments in the world","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Fcultural-traditions"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-09T13:54:18.83849Z","entity":"article","guid":"d264a1d6-7c92-4fa3-8386-2a54940befc5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge","modifiedDateTime":"2022-01-09T13:54:18.83849Z","project":"travel","slug":"20220109-iniskim-umaapi-is-this-canadas-stonehenge","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcanada","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_canada_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135636},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture","_id":"6183c25445ceed5aac11eb69","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Nubian filmmaker Hafsa Amberkab is reclaiming the power of narrative by connecting younger generations to their language and culture that was lost in their drowned ancestral land.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the opening lines of a forgotten song called Mshkomsy, 70-year-old Haseeba is transported back to her childhood on the banks of the Nile in southern Egypt. Two hundred kilometres north of her drowned ancestral land, Haseeba's daughter Hafsa has asked her to sing something in Kenzi (also known as Mattokki) – one of two Nubian languages spoken in Egypt along with Fadicca – and from somewhere deep in her memory, Haseeba extracts part of the song she loved when she was young.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ciframe width=\"100%\" height=\"166\" src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fw.soundcloud.com\u002Fplayer\u002F?url=https%3A\u002F\u002Fapi.soundcloud.com\u002Ftracks\u002F1129118764&color=%23ff5500&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments=true&show_user=true&show_reposts=false&show_teaser=true\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca style=\"color: #cccccc; text-decoration: none;\" title=\"BBC Travel\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fuser-289861732\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E · \u003Ca style=\"color: #cccccc; text-decoration: none;\" title=\"Haseeba Singing Mshkomsy\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fuser-289861732\u002Fhaseeba-singing-mshkomsy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHaseeba Singing Mshkomsy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09wmp7y.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because even though I set out to preserve my heritage, which I could see disappearing bit by bit, I keep discovering that there's so much more beauty in Nubia that we still don't know about.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Hafsa Amberkab, filmmaker\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World – 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EI watch the boat come from afar, sails and flags rippling in the air. Where could I ever find another? I miss Nubia, I miss the mountains of Nubia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" the septuagenarian translates the only lines she remembers from an unrecorded song by Nubian artist Abdo El Saghirfor her daughter, filmmaker and organiser Hafsa Amberkab, whose chosen surname honours her family's ancestral home: the village of Amberkab. In 2019, Amberkab was making her first documentary exploring her Nubian heritage. Though she thought herself fluent in Kenzi, she didn't know her native tongue had a word for 'I miss': \u003Cem\u003Emshkomsy\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Haseeba was a young girl in the 1950s, Amberkab was still a few years away from being flooded by the construction of the Aswan High Dam in 1964, which resulted in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapnews.com\u002Farticle\u002Fdams-ap-top-news-international-news-abdel-fattah-el-sissi-cultures-caa9384544df4f708de44f7be9a78221\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etens of thousands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of people displaced, and 44 Nubian villages submerged behind the mammoth megaproject.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndigenous to southern Egypt and northern Sudan, Nubians of the eastern Sahara have been closely connected to Egypt for millennia. The Twenty-Fifth Dynasty, for instance, consisted of Nubian pharaohs from the Kingdom of Kush who ruled Ancient Egypt in the 7th Century BCE. Though the foundation of modern Egypt included the area known as Lower Nubia, the ethno-linguistic group, which now mainly lives north of Lake Nasser (called Lake Nubia south of the Sudanese border), is historically and culturally distinct from other communities in Egypt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor thousands of years, the connection to the Nile was central to Nubian civilisation and culture – though rituals, ceremonies, music and economy – until 1964, when most villages, including Amberkab, were resettled into the government project Nasr El-Nuba, in the land-bound desert near Kom Ombo, 70km northeast of the High Dam. The initial relocation also led to thousands leaving for big cities like Cairo, Alexandria and Suez in search of opportunities. Others immigrated out of the country, creating diaspora communities in the Gulf countries, North America, Europe and Australia. Known colloquially as \"Nubian\", both Kenzi\u002FMattokki and Fadicca, which is also spoken in northern Sudan, have fallen into relative disuse as people dispersed and intermingled with non-Nubian communities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"For millennia, the connection to the Nile was central to Nubian civilisation and culture","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Nasr El-Nuba, stories of ancestral lands like Haseeba's are cherished by an aging generation, who hold a tighter grasp on the language, despite being completely disconnected from the Nile. Conversely, those closer to the city of Aswan, 50km to the south, who still live by the river and work in tourism have kept some Nubian customs alive by marketing them as touristic experiences. (The Nile crocodile, a culturally significant symbol of strength, can be seen in shallow pits in many Nubian guesthouses.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe word \"mshkomsy\", and Amberkab's ignorance of it, is emblematic of the state of Nubian languages today: even those that do speak them often have glaring gaps in their knowledge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The more songs my mother sang, the more we explored, and the more we realised I didn't know,\" Amberkab recalled. Camera in hand, the young filmmaker set out on an odyssey to find all she didn't know about her home and heritage and share it with the next generation of Nubian youth through Koma Waidi, an Aswan-based education initiative focused on workshops and heritage documentation, which means \"tales of the past\" in Kenzi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210802-a-superfood-fit-for-a-pharaoh\"\u003EA superfood fit for a pharaoh\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200329-bahariya-and-farafra-egypts-bizarre-desert-landscape\"\u003EEgypt's bizarre desert landscape\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190715-does-egypt-have-the-best-falafel-in-the-world\"\u003EDoes Egypt have the world's best falafel?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI met Amberkab on the sun-baked roof of a guesthouse on Elephantine Island, a two-minute boat ride across from Aswan. We took respite from the heat, watched the boats pass over the shimmering river, and contemplated the fear and wonder of crocodile taxidermy – strewn about the owner's collection of antiques lay 3m-long stuffed and mounted crocodiles. Above them, display shelves held delicate wooden carvings of traditional Nubian houses, a cabinet housed vintage 16mm cameras and British pocket-watches, and a wall was piled high with traditional clay pots, old wooden containers and a few mass-produced souvenirs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmberkab was deep in conversation with 13-year-old Koma Waidi participants Samaa Merghany and Doha Tarek, who had joined us to talk about their experience learning to make documentaries about their heritage. Picking up item after item from the guesthouse's shelves behind her, Amberkab taught the teenagers about the old barter economy, marriage rituals and how to make traditional kohl, the eyeliner prevalent in cultures across the Middle East, South Asia and parts of Africa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hafsa Amberkab explains Nubia's traditional barter economy to Tarek and Merghany","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe whole conversation took place in Arabic, not Kenzi, which none of the girls – Samaa, Doha or 18-year-old Koma Waidi volunteer Shahd El-Rawy – speak. \"Here on the island, because we're so close to the city, we're very assimilated,\" explained El-Rawy. \"Our parents and grandparents speak the language, but the new generation usually only understands it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis language gap is due to displacement, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationalgeographic.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F140131-egypt-nubia-dams-nile-constitution-culture\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecultural marginalisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and, according to Amberkab and the three students, a perceived correlation between assimilation and career success. Amberkab also explained that parents don't want their children to be made fun of at school for being different, especially if they already have Nubian features, which tend to include a darker complexion than the average Egyptian, already marking them as \"other\" in a prevalent \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapnews.com\u002Farticle\u002Fap-top-news-international-news-poverty-sudan-immigration-50f901e74759384266bf6a189805c8f2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eanti-black society\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If I could go back in time, knowing why he didn't want to teach me, I would defend my right to learn","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the only Nubian family in an Arabic-speaking neighbourhood and school, Merghany's father didn't want her to be outcast, but now the teenager is resolved to embrace her identity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's who I am, how could I not know something like that?\" Merghany exclaimed in a shy but resolute tone. \"It's my language, it should be my mother tongue. If I could go back in time, knowing why he didn't want to teach me, I would defend my right to learn. I wouldn't ever let anyone make fun of me.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWalking around Elephantine Island, as we spoke of agricultural lands long gone and submerged Nubian mountains only visible by their summits, we never steered far from the Nile. But today, according to Amberkab, only nine Nubian villages remain on the banks of the river, and the most robust experience of Nubian culture for outsiders is around Aswan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the popular Nubian village Gharb Suhail, a 30-minute boat ride south-west of Aswan, brightly-coloured houses market authentic homestays, owners advertise crocodile visits and bustling markets overflow with piles of spices against the hotels and lodges that bear Nubian names. During the high season from October to March, restaurants and guesthouses will host live music and dance performances, where local bands perform Nubian folk music. Much of what is on display isn't truly representative of Nubian culture, but rather the fulfilment of what tourists expect to see, including long-held Egyptian stereotypes of the smiling, singing, good-natured Nubian, a trope El-Rawy tells me the young generation is exceedingly tired of.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Filmmaker Hafsa Amberkab is connecting younger generations to their Nubian culture","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAmberkab's aim is to go beyond these tired tropes, both by reclaiming the power of narrative through filmmaking and by providing younger generations with points of connection to their Nubian culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince 2018, Koma Waidi has organised the annual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgate.ahram.org.eg\u002FNews\u002F2447765.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGuardians of the Nile festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, centred around this affinity with the river, where Nubian children learn about and race modern versions of traditional \u003Cem\u003Egereidy\u003C\u002Fem\u003E boats through the same waters that their ancestors paddled through.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps her most impactful activity has been a documentary film festival, where Amberkab brought in filmmakers from around Egypt to teach Nubian teenagers how to make documentaries about their heritage. The winning film, \u003Cem\u003EAno\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"grandfather\" in Kenzi) by Merghany and Tarek's team, features a young Nubian girl who discovers an old photo album. Curious, she goes down to the docks to ask her grandfather and his fellow boatmen about their community's history of sailing the Nile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMerghany and Tarek beam as they showed me the film, and it was easy to see how the pair – along with the rest of their filmmaking teenage cohort – can usher in a new generation of Nubian filmmakers. For Amberkab, this is integral to her mission.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I can't possibly document everything myself","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I can't possibly document everything myself,\" said Amberkab. \"Even with 20 people, I could never know a fraction of the stories that can be told about Nubia. But when we invest in a generation or two like this one, they won't need me. Every one of their phones turns into a camera.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his book The Nubian Language: How We Write It, Dr Mukhtar Khalil Kabbara – who pioneered modern Nubian orthography, and passed just before the book's publication – leaves an intangible will for those that succeed him. \"It is the duty of those that care for Nubian heritage, the sons and daughters of Nubia as well as others who are interested, to preserve this valuable and endangered heritage for humanity,\" he wrote. \"This is the imperative responsibility that rests on the shoulders of the next generations, for the next generations, in Nubia.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's Amberkab's generation that Kabbara refers to, who are now carrying the torch for those that will succeed her in turn. The filmmaker is part of a generation of Nubian advocates, organisers, artists and researchers who are documenting, reviving and celebrating their home and heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sailboats pass over the shimmering Nile","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We try to correct misconceptions about Nubians and Nubia that are unfortunately very common,\" said Mohamed Kamal, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nubiangeographic.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENubian Geographic\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a virtual museum on Nubian culture. \"It's on us to address media misrepresentation, and offer our own perspectives on our own heritage, instead of others doing it for us.\" What started for Kamal as a Facebook page in 2015 has since expanded into research coordination, outreach and on-ground programming. In 2018, they launched Nubian Heritage Month, which is commemorated every year in July by a large network of social media users, institutions and initiatives dedicated to Nubian heritage conservation and revival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome, like Amberkab, are barely 100km away from their ancestral land. Others, like software programmer Momen Talosh, who developed the mobile application Nubi as a way for tech-savvy Nubian children to learn their language, are in cities like Alexandria, where displaced Nubians relocated in search of opportunities. And still others, like the team behind London-based Taras Press' upcoming collection of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.middleeasteye.net\u002Fdiscover\u002Fnubian-sudan-egypt-books-discovering-language-new-generation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efour illustrated children's books\u003C\u002Fa\u003E promoting Old Nubian script and preserving Nubian visual culture, are strewn halfway across the world, but intimately connected to memories and dreams of home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ciframe width=\"100%\" height=\"166\" src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fw.soundcloud.com\u002Fplayer\u002F?url=https%3A\u002F\u002Fapi.soundcloud.com\u002Ftracks\u002F1129120153&color=%23ff5500&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments=true&show_user=true&show_reposts=false&show_teaser=true\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca style=\"color: #cccccc; text-decoration: none;\" title=\"BBC Travel\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fuser-289861732\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E · \u003Ca style=\"color: #cccccc; text-decoration: none;\" title=\"Hafsa Singing Mshkomsy\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fuser-289861732\u002Fhafsa-singing-mshkomsy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHafsa Singing Mshkomsy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn hour's drive away from her ancestral home, Amberkab now only speaks to her mother in Kenzi. Her grasp on the language and its history, which has been steadily deepening over the years, is such that she spent a full five minutes explaining the layers of meaning behind the single verse that started her odyssey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmberkab tracked down singer Abdo El-Saghir in Alexandria to learn the rest of the song. The flags mentioned in it are actually \u003Cem\u003Etarrada\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a fringed piece of fabric woven by Nubian sailors to mark their boats, which El-Saghir imagines hitting windows in the houses of his childhood as they pass, carried by the strong unimpeded wind, as \u003Cem\u003Edabes \u003C\u002Fem\u003E– a freshwater fish native to the area – jump through the shallow waters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EWhere could I ever find another like this? I miss it,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" sung Amberkab, with both nostalgia and hope in a remembered song.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-09-23T13:01:10Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The woman reviving Egypt's Nubian heritage","headlineShort":"A revival of Egypt's Nubian culture","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A guesthouse on Elephantine Island holds treasures of Nubian culture","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"24.0866648","longitude":"32.8688361,14z","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"A guesthouse on Elephantine Island holds treasures of Nubian culture","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Nubian filmmaker Hafsa Amberkab is reclaiming the power of narrative by connecting younger generations to their language and culture that was lost in their drowned ancestral land.","summaryShort":"\"I would defend my right to learn\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-22T13:26:39.931062Z","entity":"article","guid":"f6309133-acda-44bc-b0ec-15588c51068e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-23T13:30:43.414301Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135637},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient","_id":"6183c24245ceed542b0e9093","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A scent with few natural analogues, orris is exceedingly rare; the fact that people continue to seek out this fragrance despite its high cost speaks to its enduring appeal.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAncient Greeks and Romans bottled it as essential oil. Innkeepers scented their linens with it centuries ago. Today, orris can be found throughout the world: as a flavour in tinctures, medicinal syrups and spice mixes; as a base note for aromatic spirits and cosmetics; as an iconic fragrance in perfumes and potpourris. And it can cost more than gold.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShades of raspberry, violet and pepper make up this rare scent, which is distilled from the root of the iris – not the slender ‘Siberian’ iris typically found in florist shops, but the ‘bearded’ iris, the type famously painted by Vincent van Gogh. These flowers grow widely in Tuscany, where they are cultivated and sold in shops as \u003Cem\u003Egiaggiolo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, from the Italian for iris flower.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe history of this rare essence begins where it was first harvested: the Italian countryside. Just beyond the tiny village of San Polo (about a 30-minute drive from Florence) sits the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.pruneti.it\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPruneti Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Surrounded by steep hillsides purpled by blossoms, the mill has been operational for nearly two centuries. Today, brothers Paolo and Gionni Pruneti are dedicated to preserving the traditional methods of orris extraction, a costly, labour-intensive process passed down from generation to generation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAside from extra virgin olive oil, the Pruneti farm is renowned for orris, even in a farming town famous for its iris products. Each spring, Italy’s Chianti region turns shades of periwinkle and white as blooming irises dot the landscape. San Polo even holds an \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.wechianti.com\u002Fevents\u002Ffesta-del-giaggiolo\u002F?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eannual iris festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to celebrate the flower, which has for centuries featured prominently on the Florentine coat of arms.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe resin extracted from the roots of these flowers – orris butter – is exported all over the world for use in cosmetics, perfumes and powders, making production here a unique cottage industry, one that in many ways resists mechanisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe iris flourishes in May. Seeing all these hectares of farmland turn blue is really marvellous,” said Gionni.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe farm’s stony soil and temperate climate provide ideal growing conditions for the \u003Cem\u003Eiris florentina\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which flourishes in the warmth of the Mediterranean. But years must pass before orris can be bottled, powdered or made into perfume.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt Pruneti, iris roots are left underground for four years, while a variety of ‘grubbing operations’ take place: flowers in various cycles of growth are bedded, weeded, cut and harvested, allowing for year-round production of orris. Harvest takes place in the summer months, from June to September, when the flower’s rhizomes, or bulbs, are dug up from the earth with a two-pointed hoe. Odourless when first extracted, the bulbs are cleaned, hand-peeled with a curved blade and then either left to dry in the sun or readied for distillation. A small portion is left attached to the stem of the plant, which is then replanted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese dried iris bulbs must be protected day and night against fungus and insect attack, which would destroy the producer’s valuable harvest. As they mature, the rhizomes develop a violet-like aroma, as well as natural fixative properties that can prolong other scents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImage":"urn:external:nitro:image:p06n9g73","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENothing about the cultivation of orris at Pruneti is remotely industrial. Much of the work is done by hand, in small batches, with basic tools. That might account for the aromatic’s historical significance, and its current value as a precious commodity: high-quality orris can fetch more than 50,000 euros per kg, and it takes half a ton of orris root to produce a single kilo of essential oil.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOrris cultivation also requires a considerable workforce. For years at the Pruneti farm, that meant involving the entire family: adults tended the garden or hauled plants to farmhouses (with the help of donkeys), children peeled bulbs as they would potatoes, aunts and uncles drove tractors through the pasture or ground up the dried iris roots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, the brothers make use of newer technologies, but continue to be guided by centuries-old production methods. They are particularly interested in early recipes that promote the flower’s herbal properties. Indeed, orris was first used as both a perfume ingredient and as a medicinal nostrum, sold in a medieval apothecary not far from where Pruneti farm now sits.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe spent so much time together, telling stories as we worked. Those three months side by side every day made us richer,” Gionni recalled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.smnovella.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOfficina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella\u003C\u002Fa\u003E contains a storied history of aromatic riches. At the 400-year-old apothecary (some say it is the oldest still-operating pharmacy in the world), elaborately decorated rooms are filled with cabinets containing various tonics and jars of fragrant potions first brewed by an ancient order of monks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Dominicans, an order devoted to charity, devised herbal recipes here as early as the 13th Century, when poet Dante Alighieri was penning his illustrious Divine Comedy. Friars transformed the Santa Maria delle Vigne church into a monastery, and eventually a pharmacy, where they concocted medicinal remedies and perfumes, adding alcohol to the mixtures to keep scents from turning rancid. In fact, this enterprise’s manufacture of perfumes might be what attracted the patronage of its most famous customer: Catherine de’ Medici.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen Catherine de’ Medici arrived in Paris, newly married to Henry, Duke of Orleans (and future King of France), she brought with her a trove of goods from her native Florence: various cooking utensils and techniques, powders and pomades, ballet slippers and high-heeled shoes, and a vast collection of herbs and spices. Her personal perfumer, René le Florentin, made the journey as well, and in 1612, de’ Medici commissioned a scent to commemorate her arrival: \u003Cem\u003EAcqua della Regina\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Delicate, subtle and complex, ‘Water of the Queen’ was characterised by notes of citrus and bergamot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe young queen’s sinister reputation – an interest in potions and occult arts, and even a penchant for murder – seems to have followed her through history (some blamed the death of her known enemy, Jeanne d’Albret, on a pair of poisoned gloves). Regardless, medieval Florentines were so taken with de’ Medici’s beauty regimes that concentrated perfumes (blossoms steeped in alcohol and fortified with musk or opopanax, a type of resin) quickly became fashionable throughout the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EArtisans scented leather gloves with jasmine, violet, iris and orange blossom; noblemen hung sachets of potpourris and burned incense throughout the court. Preparations called \u003Cem\u003Evinaigres de toilette \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ewere wafted under royal noses to prevent a fainting spell or to ward off bad odours (of which there were many).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECatherine de’ Medici might be considered the official sponsor of our pharmacy,” said Gianluca Foà, chief commercial officer of Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Santa Maria Novella still sells traditional elixirs as well as more contemporary skin-care products and fragrances. Dried iris bulbs are transported from Chianti here in large casks, then pulverised into a powder and mixed with water and alcohol to extract an \u003Cem\u003Eabsolute\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a stronger version of the plant’s essential oil. From distilled iris bulbs at long last comes orris butter: a waxy, yellow-coloured resin with an earthy sweetness that’s hard to replicate. This ingredient is used in countless products, including toothpaste, whitening powder, soap and perfume.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo that end, the pharmacy’s fixtures retain the spirit of the past: a simple apparatus used for distilling dried iris roots still sits beside old containers once used to hold ancient formulas and emulsions. Faded recipes line the walls, revealing that orris’ incomparable essence was once used as a treatment for various ailments, including bronchitis, liver disease and edema. Most remarkable, however, is that the provenance of its iconic botanical has not changed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf course, the factory relies on modern technology in order to meet consumers’ demands; over the years, Santa Maria Novella has expanded its operations across the globe, with locations in Paris, New York, Los Angeles, Tokyo and Paris. The factory can turn out 500 bars of soap a day in any one of 25 varieties (tobacco, almond and violet scents are popular), but each bar must be aged and hand-chiselled into its final shape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe use of this ingredient makes the difference between artistic perfumery and industrial perfumery,” said Foà.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOrris is a floral scent: versatile, tenacious and slightly feminine. Its incredible potency means that only a few drops of distilled orris absolute are needed, fanning the top notes of a perfume’s composition or flavouring botanical spirits like gin. But the language of smell, like the practice of perfumery itself, is often obscure. What, exactly, makes orris’ aroma so enchanting?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPerfumes are derived from countless natural materials – woods and mosses, resins and balsams, grasses and spices, flowers and animal by-products – many of which have been used for thousands of years. While perfumery is an ancient art, its aromatic qualities were not formally classified until the 20th Century; suddenly, a mysterious fragrance like orris could be described according to its key olfactory characteristics. Though these descriptions will only ever approximate the true scents they describe, perfume accords help us understand what distinguishes one note from another:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cul\u003E\u003Cli\u003ECitrus: light, fresh bouquets such as orange, bergamot, neroli and tangerine\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003Cli\u003EFougère: recalls damp green spaces and scented forests such as juniper, lavender or pine\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003Cli\u003EAromatic: herbal notes that exude a piquant quality, like thyme, sage and rosemary, as well as tea leaves\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003Cli\u003EFloral: succulent aromas such as jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, phlox and honeysuckle\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003Cli\u003EWoody: variously austere or tarry in scent, these include cedar, fir, oud, palo santo, neem and vetiver\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003Cli\u003EOriental: vanilla, patchouli, cinnamon and myrrh\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003Cli\u003EAmber: a golden resin derived from desert plants with warm, sweet notes\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003Cli\u003EChypre: a leathery, lingering profile most commonly found in oak moss, as well as lichens, bamboo and buxus\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith advances in extraction, more modern perfume variations have also emerged, such as ozone (a clean, androgynous smell), gourmand (scents with edible or dessert-like qualities) and green (vegetal, sharp scents). Changes in consumer taste have given rise to stranger varieties still, including brick, vinyl, lava, asphalt, rain, gunpowder and mushroom.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThroughout history, orris, however, has often played a role in fragrance, managing to enter compositions as wide-ranging as light \u003Cem\u003Eeaux de cologne\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and as intoxicating as the white floral scent of a highly concentrated \u003Cem\u003Eparfum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn a world dominated by factory farming, chemical additives and synthetic ingredients, orris is exceptional: hand-harvested, painstakingly aged and nearly impossible to duplicate. Even trace amounts of this exquisite material allow for a wide range of applications, from perfume to beverages to medicine, making Florentine orris butter a much sought-after product.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe exotic bird of the floral world, orris still conjures images of nobility, of ancient traditions both secular and sacred: daubed on a royal wrist, splashed into a gin-gimlet, rubbed as an unguent on aching limbs or crushed into a fine powder that smells of violets, white flowers and the history of an entire region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Text by \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAdrienne Bernhard; video by Elisabetta Abrami)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-worlds-rarest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe World’s Rarest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that introduces you to unparalleled treasures found in striking places all across the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient-26"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-10-09T14:37:39Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Orris: The world’s rarest perfume ingredient","headlineShort":"A scent worth more than €50,000 a kilo","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A scent with few natural analogues, orris is exceedingly rare; the fact that people continue to seek out this fragrance despite its high cost speaks to its enduring appeal.","summaryShort":"The history of this rare essence begins in the Italian countryside","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:27:12.84807Z","entity":"article","guid":"84238035-80ec-4b0f-b45f-e8bd21521831","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient","modifiedDateTime":"2021-11-18T11:37:23.285235Z","project":"travel","slug":"20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135637},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years","_id":"6183c30445ceed0caf2d770d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"One of the rarest flowers in the world, the Neelakurinji blooms just once every 12 years in India’s south-western state of Kerala, when it covers the hills in a violet hue.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Kerala – famous for its tropical vegetation, idyllic beaches and scenic backwaters – lies the sleepy town of Munnar, situated in the Western Ghats mountain range. Lying 1,600m above sea level, Munnar is known for its tea, coffee and spice plantations, which, along with the lush views and misty mountains, have made the town a beloved tourist destination.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt is here where one of India’s best-kept secrets lives: the Neelakurinji, one of the world’s rarest flowers, which blooms only once every 12 years. And this year, it has bloomed again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Neelakurinji (often shortened to ‘Kurinji’) is a Strobilanthes, which is a genus of around 350 species of flowering plants, 59 of which are spread across peninsular India. Many different species of the Strobilanthes have different blooming periods. Some bloom after four, eight, 10, 12 or even 16 years. But the growth of most of them is patchy and virtually unnoticeable. The tea and spice plantations, as well as increasing construction and widening of roads, has taken over the land where these flowers might have otherwise bloomed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Strobilanthes kunthiana, the Neelakurinji (meaning ‘blue flower’), however, is hard to miss as it blooms in mass and grows in protected areas. It carpets the hills in shades of blue that turn violet towards the end of the season, which typically begins in August and lasts until October. This ‘super bloom’, occurring once every 12 years, covers a large area, including its protected area, Kurinjimala Sanctuary, about 45km from Munnar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESeeing the Neelakurinji is extremely special, because you think, maybe I won’t be around for the next time. Twelve years down the line, maybe I’m living somewhere else because of a job or marriage... maybe I’ll be dead,” said R Mohan, environmental activist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImage":"urn:external:nitro:image:p06ny6vl","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Neelakurinji is a monocarpic plant, meaning that each shrub reproduces once after flowering and then dies, and it takes a particular period for the new seeds to bloom. The mass flowering every 12 years helps the survival of the plant, as so many seeds are produced so that predators cannot eat them all. It also provides the best chance for the flowers to be seen and studied.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA rare flower that doesn’t grow anywhere else in the world, the Neelakurinji has several cultural associations in India. Roy Mathew, a former editor at The Hindu, writes in his book, Kurinji: The Flower of the Blue Mountains, that the Muthuvan tribe, a forest-dwelling community in Kerala, believe the flower to be a symbol of love and romance. Their god, Lord Muruga, married Valli, a tribal hunter girl, by weaving a garland of Neelakurinji flowers around her neck. The Paliyan tribe, a nomadic community in the Western Ghats, calculates age by the number of Neelakurinji flowering cycles one has seen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the local lore has its own significance, the Neelakurinji bloom is also important for the area as it brings with it a surge in tourism. A super bloom means that the hills will be carpeted with the flowers in rows varying from 30 to 60cm in height, which can be easily spotted in and around town. In 2018, all of Kerala, especially Munnar, was busy preparing for surplus bookings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We renovated our resort this year,” said Harish Chawda, owner of a popular wellness retreat 4km from town. “Not just us, everyone was preparing. The government began widening the roads along the hills, local restaurants geared up, everyone was very excited.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EClose to a million tourists were expected – and then disaster struck. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDuring August’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-india-45216671\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKerala floods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, more than 483 people died, tens of thousands were evacuated and more than 10,000km of roads were destroyed. Crores of rupees in property were destroyed, and the loss of income due to tourist cancellations was unfathomable. Given the devastation to the land, how did the Neelakurinji stand a chance? The flowers need at least 10 days of continuous sunshine to bloom, and they had yet to flower when the incessant rainfall plagued the state.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Nobody expected this,” Chawda said. “The main airport of the state was closed for several days. For one whole month, we had no tourists at all. That has never happened in all the time I’ve lived here. In the beginning of September, the sun came out again, the Neelakurinji finally bloomed... but there was no-one to see them.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Feravikulam.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEravikulam National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 97-sq-km conservation area for the region’s flora and fauna, was supposed to be the main draw for tourists seeking the Neelakurinji. However, many of the shrubs here were washed away by rain, and there hadn’t been enough sunshine for the remaining flowers to bloom. Those wishing to view the Neelakurinji had to go to other destinations at higher elevations, such as Top Station and Vattavada in Kerala, and Kolukkumalai in the bordering state of Tamil Nadu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Kurinji bloom has been less than expected. The hills are generally blanketed with Neelakurinji by September, but this time we have to trek to different spots for a view,” said Antonyn Thomas, adventure tourism guide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe journey to Kolukkumalai – an area with significant Neelakurinji cover, and considered the world’s highest tea plantation sites – is a difficult one, befitting the pursuit of a rare flower. From Munnar, it’s 30km to the settlement of Suryanelli and then 18km uphill over a dirt road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt is an extremely bumpy ride that must be made in a 4x4, but the views are worth the trip, with clusters of Neelakurinji covering the edges of the Kolukkumalai peak enveloped in the area’s characteristic mist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps even more elusive than Neelakurinji flowers is the honey derived from them, called Kurinjithen. The mass flowering attracts an increase in bees for pollination, which ultimately leads to this rare honey. Yet access to the honey is very complex, if not impossible; only the local tribesmen are allowed to collect it, and it hardly ever reaches the market, barring a few shops located deep in the Shola grasslands of the mountain valleys.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe locals believe this honey has medicinal properties that prevents heart blockages, although no specific study has been done, owing to the rarity of its production. Also, it is impossible to know which flowers the honey comes from, which only adds to its complex nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“See, Munnar and surrounding protected area is home to various kinds of flora, and there is no way to know whether a bee has only been to the Kurinji flower for nectar,” Mohan said. “Most of the honey made here is a form of ‘joint honey’, a combination of different flowers. Yet during the mass flowering of Kurinji flowers, it can be conservatively estimated that at least 35 to 70% of honey, depending on which area it comes from, would be from the Neelakurinji.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese are flowers so rare they fade from living memory. They should bloom next in 2030, but after that, their survival is a big question mark,” Mohan said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the face of changing weather patterns, land development and increasing agriculture, it has become more important than ever to protect the area’s natural habitats and preserve species like the Neelakurinji. Eravikulam National Park alone is home to wide variety of rare flora, and it was with that in mind that the NGO \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.savekurinji.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESave Kurinji Campaign Council\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which raises awareness about conservation through campaigns and trekking expeditions, was started in 1989.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to campaign coordinator Ansar Mangalathop, “It was through the work of the council when in 2006 the government declared 3,200 hectares of Kurinji habitat near Munnar as a Kurinji sanctuary. If what we do brings about even a little change that enables another generation to see the Neelakurinji, it’s still worth it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Text by \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ESrishti Chaudhary; video and photos – unless otherwise noted – \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eby \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMayank Soni\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-worlds-rarest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe World’s Rarest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that introduces you to unparalleled treasures found in striking places all across the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-10-16T14:45:05Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"India's flower that blooms every 12 years","headlineShort":"One of India’s best-kept secrets","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"One of the rarest flowers in the world, the Neelakurinji blooms just once every 12 years in India’s south-western state of Kerala, when it covers the hills in a violet hue.","summaryShort":"‘Seeing the Neelakurinji is extremely special’","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:22:33.001095Z","entity":"article","guid":"50f3f29b-07c6-47e3-89df-31524c65e493","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years","modifiedDateTime":"2021-11-18T11:34:38.82867Z","project":"travel","slug":"20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135638},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know","_id":"61d7661645ceed5703716a2b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fomnia-farrag"],"bodyIntro":"Jasmine, an essential ingredient in many perfumes, grows in abundance around the Egyptian village of Shubra Beloula, which is responsible for much of the world's production.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen it comes to perfume, most people instantly think of famous French labels such as Chanel N°5, Miss Dior, Yves Saint Lauren's Opium and Guerlain's Shalimar. However, likely few would know that an essential ingredient in many of these iconic brands likely hails from a small village in Egypt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShubra Beloula El-Sakhaweya, located about 97km north of Cairo and  simply referred to as Shubra Beloula, is responsible for more than half of the world's production of jasmine. These blossoms yield a classic feminine floral scent found in many perfumes, making jasmine a \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fperfumesociety.org\u002Fingredients-post\u002Fjasmine-2\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efoundation stone in perfumery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We have reached up to 2,500 tonnes of blossoms processed per year or per season. And that accounts for about 60% plus or minus of the world production,\" said Hussein A Fakhry, owner of the leading jasmine extraction factory in Egypt and head of the executive committee of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fifeat.org\u002Fproject\u002Fexecutive-committee\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInternational Federation of Essential Oils and Aroma Trades\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (IFEAT).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Shubra Beloula has the highest density of production [in Egypt]… take a compass, you put your point on Shubra Beloula and then you draw a circle of about [a] 30km radius. And this is where all of Egypt's jasmine is coming from,\" continued Fakhry, whose father introduced jasmine planting to the village in the 1950s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost of Shubra Beloula's land, around \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=_aakmX4pKsw\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E257 acres\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is planted with jasmine, with a few farms cultivating an another aromatic tree called bitter orange. Jasmine fields are divided into rows, and when the flowers bloom at night, they give off an intense pungent exotic scent. Villagers like talking with the few visitors who traverse the town's unpaved roads about the beautiful flowers that surround them, and might even invite them to help with picking process.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bf9bxz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The village of Shubra Beloula is an essential player in the world's perfume industry","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor villagers, jasmine is not just a nice smelling flower but a major source of their livelihood. \"Everyone in this village from the eldest to the youngest picks jasmine flowers,\" said jasmine picker Mohamed Faraj. \"Kids as young as seven years old wake up by dawn, pick jasmine for a few hours then head to school. I used to do so since I was nine years old.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJasmine harvesting, which occurs from June to December, is a unique and fascinating process. Every day before sunset, jasmine fields look and smell like just any other green area with just few blossoms showing here and there. Yet, only a few hours later, the mature buds fully open and their fragrance spreads across the fields inviting the villagers to head into the darkness to collect them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"People start picking at dawn [03:00] to around 09:00, because after sunrise, unpicked blossoms lose their essence and become unusable,\" Faraj said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The plant is the queen of the night. It has basically adapted its biology to being pollinated by night insects like moths rather than bees and birds, which are basically active during the day,\" Fakhry explained. \"The blossoms open during the night and send out their best fragrance. So, you want to pick it at that moment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bf9bxs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Jasmine harvesting takes place at night when the mature buds fully open","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJasmine blossoms must be picked carefully, one by one, to keep their oils. \"When we are collecting, we need to balance between collecting quickly and at the same time not to press the flowers hard so they won't lose their oils,\" Faraj continued. \"The best thing to do is to collect the mature white-coloured buds; they will still blossom anyway after being picked within a few hours.\" The small, pink immature buds should be left for another day or two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBlossom picking from the metre-high jasmine shrubs is laborious, and in many televised interviews, pickers have expressed their frustration about their wages. Faraj shares this frustration. \"Jasmine picking is not financially rewarding for young men like me; we look for other better paying jobs. We pick jasmine all night and then we sell what we pick to the wholesale collector [who sends them to the factory] for 30 EGP [£1.44] for a kilogram of blossoms. A person picks an average of 3kg of blossoms making 90 EGP [£4.31] a day, which is little,\" he explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe low price for picked blossoms can be attributed to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fifeat.org\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2017\u002F08\u002F4-Socio-Economic-Report-JASMINE.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecompetition with India\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the second largest producer of jasmine after Egypt. Another reason, however, could be the complexity of extracting jasmine absolute – the substance used in perfumes – from the blossoms, which undergoes a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.perfumerflavorist.com\u002Ffragrance\u002Fingredients\u002Farticle\u002F21856925\u002Fjasmine-an-overview-of-its-essential-oils-sources\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etwo-step process\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: first, the blossoms are mixed with hexane, a colourless and odourless volatile petroleum derivative, to extract jasmine concrete, a butter-like intermediary product that contains both jasmine absolute and wax. Then, the jasmine absolute is separated from the wax using ethyl alcohol.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring this process, the weight of jasmine blossoms shrinks significantly. \"To pick a kilo of blossom, a picker needs to collect between 4,000 and 6,000 individual blossoms,\" Fakhry said. \"I need one tonne of blossom – about 6 million blossoms – to produce about 2.6 or 2.7kg of jasmine concrete ... and that concrete yields [1kg of jasmine absolute]\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bf9bx8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"In Shubra Beloula, Jasmine blossom picking is laborious and is not financially rewarding","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite the low wages, picking jasmine remains a main source of income for most of the villagers, especially women and the elderly, according to Faraj. \"People here wait for the jasmine season to cover their big financial commitments – they plan their weddings based on the season,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, as Shubra Beloula's jasmine harvesting has started to get more national attention due to media coverage, tour groups have begun to visit the village, opening the door for other potential sources of income for villagers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They plan their weddings based on the season","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I have been visiting Shubra Beloula since 2018… Then, I started to organise small trips for kids who are doing flexible education and exploration trips,\" said Cairene Aymanullah Ashraf, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FSoulTravelEgypt\u002F?ref=page_internal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESoul Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"But in 2020, I started organising domestic tourism trips.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen she first proposed the idea to the villagers, they doubted its success. \"They told me, 'Who will travel down here to see some trees?',\" she said. \"But I have organised 16 tourist groups in the 2020 and 2021 seasons.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bf9byw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Everyone in Shubra Beloula, including children, pick jasmine flowers","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany pickers love the presence of tourists .\"We feel happy when people visit; they take pictures with us and we feel that our work is appreciated,\" Faraj said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAshraf says that nature therapy, particularly connecting with plants, helps her boost her wellbeing, and that jasmine is particularly good for that. \"Jasmine helps with mindfulness because of its smell, colour and texture,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture\"\u003EA revival of Egypt's Nubian culture\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient\"\u003EThe world's rarest perfume ingredient\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years\"\u003EThe flower that blooms every 12 years\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJasmine essential oil – which is different from absolute in that it is produced by distillation or cold-pressing rather than through solvent extraction – is widely used in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.healthline.com\u002Fhealth\u002Fjasmine-essential-oil#benefits-and-uses\"\u003Earomatherapy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to help boost one's mood. A \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F236235613_The_effects_of_jasmine_Oil_inhalation_on_brain_wave_activies_and_emotions\"\u003Estudy published by the Journal of Health Research\u003C\u002Fa\u003E shows that inhaling jasmine essential oil increases brain waves associated with positive emotions like feeling well, active, fresh and romantic. It's also thought to decrease negative feelings, especially drowsiness. \"Inhaling jasmine or using it in aromatherapy massage improves mood and has been reported to increase positive feelings, as well as energy levels.\" Nour Walid, marketing executive at Areej Aromatherapy, explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the early 2000s, Fakhry's factory developed a method using petrol-free organic-certified solvents to cater to the aromatherapy sector. And in 2019, the factory figured out how to extract essential oil from jasmine, a feat that many industry books said couldn't be done.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We found a way of producing essential oil by steam distillation, and that's a world premiere,\" Fakhry said. \"You can imagine that being a small Egyptian company... we were quite proud of having cracked that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bf9ccq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Jasmine blossoms yield a classic feminine floral scent found in many perfumes","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDeveloping this new technique increased the aromatherapy sector's interest in Egyptian jasmine since this method does not use any petroleum derivatives. This happened at just the right time, when demand from perfumers significantly decreased in 2020 due to Covid-19.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"By being able to produce that [essential] oil, we were able to – quite simply said – probably save the sector and allow the farmers to deliver their production during 2020,\" Fakhry said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocally produced jasmine essential oil is gaining increased popularity and is being sold by multiple sellers. \"We produce jasmine oil also by steam distillation which we sell in bulk; it's much more expensive. We will introduce it to the brand soon,\" Walid added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhether jasmine from Shubra Beloula is used in perfume or aromatherapy, it touches products and people from over the world, all while continuing to provide a livelihood for thousands of villagers. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-07T10:57:36Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Shubra Beloula: The tiny Egyptian village few know","headlineShort":"The tiny Egyptian village few know","image":["p0bf9c0t"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"In Shubra Beloula, Jasmine blossoms are picked carefully, one by one, to keep their oils","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"30.9445541","longitude":"30.9213424","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"In Shubra Beloula, Jasmine blossoms are picked carefully, one by one, to keep their oils","promoImage":["p0bf9c0t"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210922-a-revival-of-egypts-nubian-culture","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181008-orris-the-worlds-rarest-perfume-ingredient","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181015-the-flower-that-blooms-every-12-years"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Jasmine, an essential ingredient in many perfumes, grows in abundance around the Egyptian village of Shubra Beloula, which is responsible for much of the world's production.","summaryShort":"It's an essential player in the world's perfume industry","tag":["tag\u002Fcultural-activities"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-06T21:58:39.443088Z","entity":"article","guid":"270df5e6-2617-4bd8-bfc0-cde28edd7ff9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know","modifiedDateTime":"2022-01-07T13:54:37.596921Z","project":"travel","slug":"20220106-shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-few-know","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fegypt"],"destinationStat":"africa_egypt","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135637},"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20210726-50-reasons-to-love-the-world-2021":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:external:travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20210726-50-reasons-to-love-the-world-2021","_id":"6183c2ad45ceed75643dc47f","name":"50 Reasons to Love the World – 2021","primaryVertical":"travel","sourceName":"50 Reasons to Love the World – 2021","sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3zIcZMd","summaryLong":"BBC Travel celebrates 50 Reasons to Love the World in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.","summaryShort":"50 Reasons to Love the World","tag":null,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-26T11:01:53.442245Z","entity":"external","guid":"1ab2b740-5be2-4174-a268-6069d6ef193a","id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20210726-50-reasons-to-love-the-world-2021","modifiedDateTime":"2021-07-28T15:18:23.030725Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210726-50-reasons-to-love-the-world-2021","image":["p09lrtz6"],"promoImage":["p09lrtz6"],"articleType":"external","headlineShort":"50 Reasons to Love the World","promoAlignment":"center","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.archive.org\u002Fweb\u002F20220113212149\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3zIcZMd","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135638},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city","_id":"61a7e3c645ceed7e455a6d32","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Angkor Wat attracts millions of visitors a year, but most know little of the intricate and vast water system that fed the empire's rise and demise.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery April during Khmer New Year celebrations, Sophy Peng, her four siblings and parents make the pilgrimage to Cambodia's most sacred mountain, Phnom Kulen. As the birthplace of the mighty Angkor Empire, fabled Kulen's gentle slopes hold a special place in the hearts of locals. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring religious festivals, Cambodians flock to its peak to be blessed by the same waters used to coronate kings since 802 AD. This was when empire founder Jayavarman II was washed with sacred water and declared a \u003Cem\u003Edevaraja\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or God King, marking the start of the Angkor Empire. The empire went on to span much of modern-day Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam, and house the world's largest pre-industrial urban hub – the city of Angkor. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo immortalise this sacred spot that sits about 50km north of Siem Reap city, 1,000\u003Cem\u003E lingas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a phallic symbol incarnation of the Hindu god Shiva – were carved into the riverbed at Kbal Spean, where water flows to the Angkor plains and into the Tonle Sap Lake. Even today, this water is regarded as sacred, and its power is believed to cure illnesses and bring luck.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is a very special place for Cambodians; it's an important part of our history,\" said Peng. \"Every year, my family visit Mount Kulen as part of our Khmer New Year rituals. We bring food donations to leave at the temple and pour water from Kbal Spean on us to bring good luck.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"River of 1,000 lingas at Phnom Kulen National Park, Cambodia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJayavarman II's spiritual blessing marked the start of the Angkor Empire's close relationship with water. However, it wasn't until the capital shifted south to Rolous and then to its final resting place for more than five centuries – Angkor – that master engineers were able to use their skills to create the intricate water system that fed the empire's rise and demise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The plains of Angkor are ideal for an empire to flourish,\" explained Dan Penny, a researcher in the geosciences department at the University of Sydney who has extensively studied Angkor. \"There are ample resources, such as good rice soil close to the Tonle Sap Lake. The lake is one of the world's most productive inland fisheries and Angkor is sitting right on the north shore of this enormous food bowl. Angkor grew to become a success on the back of these resources.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211004-yemens-ancient-soaring-skyscraper-cities\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYemen's ancient, soaring skyscrapers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious secret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210707-prahok-the-pungent-fish-elevating-cambodian-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe star ingredient in Cambodian food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the 1950s and '60s, French archaeologist Bernard Philippe Groslier used aerial archaeology to reconstruct the layout of Angkor's ancient cities. This revealed its vast reach and the complexity of its water management network and led Groslier to dub Angkor the \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.virtualangkor.com\u002Fwater-t2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHydraulic City\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince then, archaeologists have carried out extensive research into the water network and the vital role it played. In 2012, the true extent of the hydraulic system, which spans 1,000 sq km, was revealed through airborne laser scanning technology (LiDAR) led by archaeologist Dr Damian Evans, a research fellow at École Française d’Extrême-Orient.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The missing pieces of the puzzle came into sharp focus,\" said Dr Evans. \"We're working on a paper now which is the final definitive map of Angkor and shows the real picture, including the hydraulic system. Water was one of the secrets to the empire's success.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Ancient Hindu statues along the south bridge into Angkor Thom temple, Siem Reap, Cambodia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo craft a city of its size, the manmade canals carved to steer water from Phnom Kulen to the plains of Angkor were key to construction. They were used to transport the estimated 10 million sandstone bricks, weighing up to 1,500kg each, that built Angkor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs well as ensuring a year-round water supply in a monsoon climate to support the population, agriculture and livestock, the hydraulic system feeds the foundations that have kept the temples standing for centuries. The sandy soil alone is not enough to withstand the weight of the stones. However, master engineers discovered mixing sand and water creates stable foundations, so the moats that surround each temple were designed to provide a constant supply of groundwater. This has created foundations strong enough to keep the temples stable and prevent them from crumbling all these centuries later.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThroughout the empire's history, successive kings expanded, restored and improved Angkor's complex water network. This comprises an impressive web of canals, dykes, moats, \u003Cem\u003Ebarays\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (reservoirs) – the West Baray is the earliest and largest manmade structure that can be spotted from space, at 7.8km long and 2.1km wide – as well as master engineering to control water flow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There are many examples of historic cities with elaborate water management systems, but nothing like this","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Angkor's hydraulic system is so unique because of its scale,\" said Penny. \"There are many examples of historic cities with elaborate water management systems, but nothing like this. The scale of the reservoirs, for example. The amount of water the West Baray holds is incredible. Many European cities could have comfortably sat within it when it was built. It's mind-boggling; it's a sea.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, while it was water that contributed to the Angkor Empire's rise, it was also water that contributed to its demise. \"It's clear the water management network was really important in the growth of the city and led to wealth and power,\" said Penny. \"But as it grew more complex and larger and larger, it became the Achilles heel to the city itself.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Neak Pean temple reflection with the water in baray, Siem Reap, Cambodia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EResearch reveals that in the late 14th and early 15th Centuries, dramatic shifts in climate caused prolonged monsoon rains followed by intense droughts. These climate changes took their toll on the water management network, contributing to the mighty empire's eventual fall.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The whole city was being slapped around by these huge weather variations,\" said Penny. \"The scale of the network and its interdependence meant the massive disturbance of droughts and people changing the system to cope followed by very wet years blew parts apart. This fragmented the whole network, making it unusable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.science.org\u002Fdoi\u002F10.1126\u002Fsciadv.aau4029\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFurther research\u003C\u002Fa\u003E suggests these weather shifts, combined with the breakdown of the hydraulic system and increasing attacks from the neighbouring Siamese, caused the capital to shift south to Oudong.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The history books tell you the end of Angkor is because the Siamese overran it in 1431,\" said Dr Damian. \"I don't think that happened. The evidence we have indicates it was more long-term. The pressure of huge droughts, the water management system breaking down, constant attacks from the Siamese and the expansion of maritime routes all contributed.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegardless, once Angkor was abandoned, it was reclaimed by nature. While locals were aware of the ancient monuments, they were shrouded by jungle from the rest of the world until 1860, when they were \"rediscovered\" by French explorer Henri Mouhot. This sparked a series of huge restoration projects that continue today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the last two decades, Cambodia has seen a huge increase in tourists flocking to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wmf.org\u002Fproject\u002Fangkor-archaeological-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAngkor Wat Archaeological Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to stand in the shadows of Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm and Bayon temples. In 2019, 2.2 million people explored the site. The surge in hotels, eateries and visitors put huge pressure on water demand, causing drastic shortages. As the temples rely on a constant groundwater supply to remain standing, this sparked concern over the preservation of the Unesco-listed site.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tree roots growing over Ta Som temple at Angkor, Cambodia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe increase in water demand coupled with severe monsoon flooding from 2009 to 2011, triggered a mass restoration of the ancient water system. Socheata Heng, who owns a guesthouse on the outskirts of Siem Reap, recalled the 2011 floods – the province's worst in 50 years. \"It caused so much damage,\" she said. \"Crops were destroyed, communities had to be evacuated and the water came pouring into my guesthouse. It was devastating.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHeaded by APSARA National Authority, which is tasked with protecting Angkor Archaeological Park, the restoration project has seen many of the hydraulic system's barays and waterways renovated, including Angkor Thom's 12km moat, the West Baray and the 10th-Century royal basin, Srah Srang. These efforts have helped combat the water shortages triggered by the sharp rise in tourists, and also prevent the severe flooding experienced across the province between 2009 and 2011.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis means today, the vast system that dates back centuries continues to satisfy Siem Reap's thirst by providing a constant water supply, preventing destructive flooding and providing the foundations that will keep Angkor's sacred temples stable well into the future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The renovation of the barays and water systems provides water for irrigation, so they have become part of today's agrarian landscape while also helping stabilise the temples,\" said Dr Evans. \"It's truly incredible this water management system still serves Siem Reap.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-02T23:40:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Angkor: Asia's ancient 'Hydraulic City'","headlineShort":"Asia's empire crushed by water","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Angkor Wat temples reflected in water","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"13.4125","longitude":"103.8670","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Angkor Wat temples reflected in water","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Angkor Wat attracts millions of visitors a year, but most know little of the intricate and vast water system that fed the empire's rise and demise.","summaryShort":"The unexpected reason behind its rise – and fall","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-01T21:06:06.929957Z","entity":"article","guid":"41b68217-ef81-4670-8e39-1e8656b9c451","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city","modifiedDateTime":"2021-12-02T01:17:28.734618Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135639},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution","_id":"6183c29f45ceed6ad3058034","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Switzerland's 15th-Century farmers and vintners had a dangerously creative solution to irrigating their mountainous land that's still in use today.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETacked on to a sheer rock face, a series of weathered wooden channels led our hiking group across vertical cliffs at a dizzying 1,200m. It was only thanks to the mounted guardrails and safety nets that we could walk the 6km-long trail – known as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.myswitzerland.com\u002Fen-au\u002Fexperiences\u002Froute\u002Ftorrent-neuf-irrigation-water-canal\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETorrent Neuf\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – at all. The 15th- Century Rhône Valley farmers and vintners who dared to build these suspended irrigation channels had nothing more than a shovel, pickaxe and worn ropes. It was a perilous job that cost lives – but spared one corner of Switzerland from near drought.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESwitzerland may be dubbed \"Europe's water tower\", but one region, the Valais in south-western Switzerland, has historically endured aridity exacerbated by the \u003Cem\u003Efoehn\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a notoriously dry, warm wind found here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBordering Italy to the south and France to the west, the L-shaped region stretches from the mighty Matterhorn to Lake Geneva. The alluvial soils of lower Valais' gentler slopes are carpeted with fruit orchards, where some 70 varieties of apricots ripen in the region's Mediterranean-like summers. Meanwhile, in the exposed alpine pastures of German-speaking upper Valais, native breeds like Valais Blacknose sheep and horn-locking Herens cattle clang their bells in the shadow of the Alps. These same 4,000-plus metre peaks protect central Valais' terraced vineyards that green the dramatic Rhône Valley's south-east facing slopes. This is the heart of Switzerland's boutique wine industry, where endemic varieties like Amigne and Goron de Bovernier have put Swiss vintages on the world map.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite being surrounded by some of Switzerland's wettest mountains, the sun-scorched, glacier-carved region receives just 500mm of rainfall a year, presenting a unique engineering challenge for irrigation. Cue gravity-defying \u003Cem\u003Ebisses, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Edesigned to divert glacial meltwater from mountain streams to parched pastures and vineyards at lower elevations. To this day, 200 of them totalling 1,800km in length supply water to 80% of the Valais' irrigated land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A traditional wooden Swiss chalet beside a hiking trail in the Valais, Switzerland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMeasuring between 0.5m to 2m in breadth, the most primitive of Valais bisses were hewn out of rock. Others, like the 500-year-old Bisse des Sarrasins in the district of Sierre in central Valais, were hollowed from tree trunks. But the true marvels of bisse engineering were the \"hanging channels\", designed to guide water from far-off glaciers around gorges and overhangs in the region's wildest corners.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190422-the-swiss-language-that-few-know\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Swiss language that few know\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200624-iran-the-surprising-origins-of-the-postal-service\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIran's ingenious delivery solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200702-the-last-night-watchmen-of-europe\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe last Night Watchmen of Europe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocated 1,200m above the east bank of the Morge River in Savièse (a sub-region of Central Valais)\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E Torrent Neuf's 15th-Century hanging channels were built specifically to capture glacial milk before it entered a gorge. Using larch felled from the nearby Foret du Ban du Torrent, workers crafted a series of three-sided wooden conduits that could buffer against avalanches and rock-fall. A real high-wire act, the men would hang at the ends of ropes, anchoring these hanging channels to the sheer limestone cliffs with a double row of wooden beams called \u003Cem\u003Eboutzets\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter watering the thirsty plateau of Savièse for five centuries, Torrent Neuf's hanging channels were retired in 1935. Credited with heralding the golden age of bisses in the 1400s thanks to its success in irrigating unproductive land, Torrent Neuf Bisse was restored in 2013 as a piece of cultural heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Valais' lower valleys, bisses were earthen cut. The excavation debris buttressed the channel's outer banks, like in Torrent Neuf's forested downstream segment, known as Bisse de Ste Marguerite. Fed by the Tsanfleuron Glacier, Saviésans like Lydwine Bruchez continue to draw water from it. The farmer grazes horses, Héren cattle and a flock of 120 organic Suffolk sheep on her 60 hectares. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\"Thanks to the bisses we [farmers] have fodder for our animals. It is a question of survival for Valais agriculture,\" Bruchez told me. \"Water is life, quite simply.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A narrow channel of the Bisse d'Ayent attached to a sheer rock face","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a stifling hot day in May, I watched in disbelief as a lithe Bruchez launched a 5kg iron plate (a family heirloom) into the air, before plunging it into a small channel of water running through her flower-freckled meadow. The action – based on an age-old practice known as \"\u003Cem\u003Ezetti\" –\u003C\u002Fem\u003E diverts the water temporarily to flood farmers land by runoff. Minutes earlier, Bruchez had raised the sluice gate of a small bisse located scarcely 100m away to create the artificial water channel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It is a question of survival for Valais agriculture. Water is life, quite simply.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENormally the sole key-bearers of these small hand-operated sluice gates are bisse guards like Philippe Emery, whose responsibilities include maintaining and cleaning the bisse and coordinating the distribution of its water. He's been caretaker of Savièse's Bisse de Lentine – located above the Valais medieval capital of Sion – for 13 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBordered by a retaining dry-stone wall, the 4km-long Bisse de Lentine is skirted by a path overhanging stepped vineyards, stretching along the Rhône's northern bank. The sight of a scuttling scorpion is a clue to the Valais semi-arid climate, where six species of cactus thrive, alongside figs and snakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I found a 2m-long viper lurking here once,\" Emery remarked, cautiously squatting over the bisse to remove the metal plate that raises the water level. Unpadlocking the sluice gate he then redirected the bisse water to a nearby 200-litre metal barrel. These private and community-owned \"reservoirs\" are where local vintners draw water for their vineyards, usually starting in May when the rain tails off, continuing into September.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENo parcel of land is left unutilised by the region's indefatigable winemakers, who work some of the world's steepest vineyards. Owner of nearby \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.orpailleur.ch\u002F\"\u003ECave L'Orpailleur\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Frédéric Dumoulin, tends to plots measuring just 1,000sq m. Clinging improbably to 30-degree gradient slopes, his Chardonnay vines grow at 900m.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Valais farmer Lydwine Bruchez raising an iron plate to divert water in a meadow","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAll 20 of Dumoulin's grapes (including indigenous varietals like Petite Arvine) are nourished by Clavau – a bisse built in 1453 by the Bishop of Sion. Thanks to its snow-capped Alpine views and direct access to \u003Cem\u003Eguérites \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(wine bars), the Bisse de Clavau doubles as a well-trodden \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.valais.ch\u002Fen\u002Factivities\u002Fhiking\u002Fbisses\u002Fbisse-de-clavau\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehiking trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It's one of a raft of mercifully flat bisse walks in the region that have proven a boon for regional tourism. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStarting at the village of St-Romain, Bisse de Clavau's 8km-long path weaves through vertiginous vineyards that tumble down to the Rhone River – a ribbon of shimmering turquoise flanked by emerald-green slopes. I followed the sound of droning bees and babbling water that flowed alternately through the bisse's open-air concrete channels, stone tunnels and metal conduits.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne person who knows more about the region's ancient watercourses than most is bisse veteran Jean-Charles Bornet. Raised in the folds of Nendaz's sun-drenched valley – home to the Valais' largest network of bisses – the local councillor's happy place is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nendaz.ch\u002Fen\u002FV2536\u002Fbisse-du-milieu-bisse-vieux\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBisse Vieux\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"I remember hiking up here as a boy with a huge picnic rucksack that weighed more than me,\" Bornet remarked as we followed the bisse's contours beneath towering spruce trees. \"It's where I spent many a weekend, and still do.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFirst written about in 1640, 1,600m-high Bisse Vieux is unique in conveying water year-round, tapped from the Pennine Alps Grand Désert Glacier. It's also a textbook example of how this indigenous irrigation technology was adapted for challenging terrain. Midway along its 7km course, water cascades down a series of stepped metal troughs, which plunge 5m to navigate a rocky ridge. On a flatter stretch, Bornet gestured to the remains of a huge boulder resting on the bisse's bank, shattered by dynamite. \"This was a job for a local apricot farmer who happens to have a dynamite license,\" he said, explaining that rocks unstuck by melting snow and natural debris like branches can often obstruct the bisse, requiring some \"explosive\" intervention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECrossing several watersheds, longer bisses like the 26km one in the village of Saxon were an easy target for water thieves in the 1300s. The solution? A water-driven warning hammer lifted by a paddle wheel at every turn, which still works today. Guards would overnight in wooden cabins alongside them, ready to pounce if the hammer went mute, which could also signal a blockage in the bisse upstream.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A bisse flowing above elevated vinyards in the Rhone Valley, Switzerland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Nowadays a guard can know just with the sound of the water if a stone is blocking it somewhere along its course,\" Bornet said, while dislodging a branch from the bisse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile many Swiss outside of the Valais won't have heard of bisses, the 100-franc bill is adorned with an illustration of one of the most spectacular: Bisse d'Ayent. Built in 1442, its passage of hanging channels that cling to a 1,800m rocky ridge are a feat of engineering that have earned it the moniker \"King of Bisses\". \"The bisses are the result of the ingenuity and audacity of the Valais and its people,\" head of European markets for Valais Tourism Board, Emilie Morard told me. \"We are proud of this ancestral know-how.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-22T21:09:56Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Switzerland's gravity-defying solution","headlineShort":"Switzerland's gravity-defying solution","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A hiker on the Bisse du Rho trail, Switzerland","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"46.2941","longitude":"7.5335","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"A hiker on the Bisse du Rho trail, Switzerland","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Switzerland's 15th-Century farmers and vintners had a dangerously creative solution to irrigating their mountainous land that's still in use today.","summaryShort":"These ancient wooden waterways saved Switzerland from drought","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-21T21:20:24.484356Z","entity":"article","guid":"af9c3406-c561-4256-b4e6-b1a6d5bf5cac","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:11:31.097345Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135639},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","_id":"61b655db45ceed63f35cd491","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fshafik-meghji"],"bodyIntro":"A deceptively simple feat of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Index\"\u003EIn the 15th and early 16th Centuries, a small island in Lake Titicaca was one of South America's most important religious sites. Revered as the birthplace of the Sun, the Moon and the Inca dynasty, Isla del Sol (\"Island of the Sun\") drew pilgrims from across the Andes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few years ago, I followed in their footsteps, catching a boat from the Bolivian town of Copacabana across the choppy, gunboat-grey lake, which sits an altitude of 3,812m, making it the only place on the planet a traveller can \"suffer from sea-sickness and mountain-sickness at the same time\", according to British explorer Percy Harrison Fawcett, who visited in the early 1900s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter docking on Isla del Sol's north-east coast, I followed a centuries-old trail past a host of Inca and pre-Inca ruins – \u003Cem\u003Etambos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (waystations), shrines, temples, plazas, altars and a ceremonial complex that includes Titikala, a slab of sandstone from which Andean creator god Viracocha is said to have brought forth the Sun and the Moon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"These deceptively simple feats of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECaptivated by the ancient sites and the views of the snow-streaked Cordillera Real in the distance, I paid little attention to the terraced fields snaking along the hillsides of the island. Yet these deceptively simple feats of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKnown as \u003Cem\u003Eandenes \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(Spanish for \"platforms\"), these terraced fields are scattered across the central Andes. First constructed around 4,500 years ago by ancient cultures across the region, they were perfected by the Inca, who emerged in the 12th Century and were masters of adopting and adapting techniques, strategies and belief systems from other societies. Andenes, says Cecilia Pardo Grau, curator of the British Museum's current \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britishmuseum.org\u002Fexhibitions\u002Fperu-journey-time\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPeru: a journey in time exhibition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, were \"a creative way of defying the terrain… that allows for an efficient way of growing [crops]\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b7v841"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Ruins of Choquequirao on steep forested hill, Cusco, Peru","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThey allowed Andean communities to overcome challenging environments, including steep slopes, thin soils, extreme and sharply fluctuating temperatures, and scant or seasonal rainfall. Fed by artificial pools and elaborate irrigation systems, andenes significantly expanded the area of cultivable land. They also conserved water, reduced soil erosion and – thanks to stone walls that absorbed heat during the day and then released it at night – protected plants from severe frosts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis enabled farmers to grow dozens of different crops, from maize and potatoes to quinoa and coca, many of which would not otherwise have survived in the region. The upshot was a dramatic increase in the overall amount of food produced.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution\"\u003ESwitzerland's gravity-defying solution\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsia's empire crushed by water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Maya's ingenious secret to survival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond their ingenuity, andenes also have an artistic quality, forming vast geometric patterns on the landscapes of the Andes. Some look like giant green staircases carved into the mountainside, while others are made up of sets of concentric circles, capturing the attention like an optical illusion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the most impressive is the Peruvian archaeological site of Moray, which resembles a natural amphitheatre. Located around 50km north of the former Inca capital of Cuzco and 3,500m above sea level, it demonstrates how andenes were used to create a range of microclimates. Thanks to the varying designs, sizes, depths and orientations of the terraces, the temperature differential between the highest and lowest is around 15C. Moray has been described as an \"agricultural research station\": soil samples from across the empire have been discovered here and researchers argue the Inca may have used the site to experiment with practices like crop rotation, domestication and hybridisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESophisticated agricultural techniques such as andenes played a vital role in the expansion of the Inca empire, which was known as Tawantinsuyu and spanned much of modern-day Peru, western Bolivia, south-west Ecuador, south-west Colombia, north-west Argentina and northern Chile at its height. One of the oldest surviving accounts of their use comes from Garcilaso de la Vega (1539-1616), the son of an Inca noblewoman and a Spanish conquistador. After capturing a new territory, the Inca started to expand the amount of agricultural land by bringing in skilled engineers, de la Vega noted in his book, Royal Commentaries of the Incas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b7v83z"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of andenes for agricultural purposes in Peru","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Having dug the [irrigation] channels, they levelled the fields and squared them so that the irrigation water could be adequately distributed,\" he wrote. \"They built terraces on the mountains and hillsides, wherever the soil was good… In this way the whole hill was gradually brought under cultivation, the platforms being flattened out like stairs in a staircase and all the cultivable and irrigable land being put to use.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe newly expanded land was subsequently split into three parts: one for the Inca emperor; one for religious purposes; and one for the community, tranches of which were then distributed by local leaders. Although they were not taxed, farmers were required to spend time working on the emperor's and the religious lands, as well as their own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETechniques such as andenes were combined with policies such as \u003Cem\u003Emitma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, where people were moved to recently conquered territories to help cement Inca control; and \u003Cem\u003Emit'a\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a form of compulsory public service used to provide manpower to build infrastructure, including a road network tens of thousands of kilometres long.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis approach to agricultural, community and imperial organisation allowed the Inca to amass large surpluses of food for use during droughts, floods, conflicts and other lean periods. These stockpiles – which included \u003Cem\u003Echuño\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, freeze-dried potatoes produced by repeated exposure to frost and bright sunshine – were kept in huge storehouses called \u003Cem\u003Equllqas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. In the absence of a written language, the Inca used a complex system of multicoloured knotted strings known as \u003Cem\u003Equipu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (or \u003Cem\u003Ekhipu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) to maintain inventories, as well as keep track of population and astronomical data. Some academics believe quipu may even have been used to record narratives such as stories, songs and poems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrau argues that quipu – examples of which are on display in the British Museum's exhibition – were central to Inca society. \"They inherited this knowledge from the Wari, a society that existed in the southern highlands, 400 years before the Inca,\" she said. \"The Inca used a decimal system: they had a different knot for every number from one to nine, and then for tens, hundreds and thousands... the quipu was key in the way the empire functioned and was organised.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b7v83n"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"View to the Colca Canyon with the Colca river flowing","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, the andenes, stockpiles and quipus helped the Inca to steadily expand an empire that eventually dominated a great swath of South America, encompassed 12 million people and produced majestic citadels such as Machu Picchu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th Century triggered the overthrow of the Inca and the decline of the andenes. Colonial violence, epidemics of European diseases and forced displacement devastated the indigenous populations of the central Andes. European crops and agriculture practices were introduced and quickly spread throughout the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet while many andenes were abandoned or fell into disrepair, they never disappeared completely. Drawing on knowledge passed down over the generations, many Andean farmers continue to use them today, and though often overlooked by travellers, they remain a common sight in places such as Isla del Sol and the wider Titicaca region, the Sacred Valley near Machu Picchu, and the Colca Canyon in southern Peru, a fissure twice the depth of the Grand Canyon. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years, there has also been renewed academic interest in andenes as a form of sustainable agriculture that could help the world cope with the climate crisis, water scarcity and soil erosion. The Food and Agriculture Organization of the UN, for example, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fao.org\u002Fgiahs\u002Fgiahsaroundtheworld\u002Fdesignated-sites\u002Flatin-america-and-the-caribbean\u002Fandean-agriculture\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edescribes traditional Andean culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as \"one of the best examples of the adaptation and knowledge of farmers to their environment\", and highlights its sustainable approach to land usage, water management, soil protection and crop biodiversity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFour and a half thousand years after they first emerged, the terraced fields of the Andes appear to be ahead of their time. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-13T10:04:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The innovative technology that powered the Inca","headlineShort":"The technology that powered the Inca","image":["p0b7v863"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Incan agricultural site of Moray with mountains in background","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"13.3299","longitude":"72.1971","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The Incan agricultural site of Moray with mountains in background","promoImage":["p0b7v863"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210808-the-mayas-ingenious-secret-to-survival","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211201-angkor-asias-ancient-hydraulic-city","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210721-switzerlands-gravity-defying-solution"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A deceptively simple feat of agricultural engineering helped the Inca to build the largest empire in South American history.","summaryShort":"It helped them build the largest empire in South American history","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-12T20:04:36.692474Z","entity":"article","guid":"9d902331-9f60-4fdc-b7a7-cb847bf544b1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","modifiedDateTime":"2021-12-12T20:04:36.692474Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211212-the-innovative-technology-that-powered-the-inca","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-america"],"destinationStat":"south-america","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135638},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese","_id":"6183c24345ceed54183b8765","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Created thousands of years ago in the remote reaches of the Himalayas, chhurpi can be eaten for up to 20 years.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEnveloped in a thick veil of grey mist, Nepal's remote Himalayan village of Parvathy Kund was nearly deserted. One of the few people in sight was an old woman sitting in the doorway of a wooden house, who flashed a welcoming, toothless smile at my friend and I. \"Would you like to eat some \u003Cem\u003Echhurpi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E?\" my friend asked the woman, having just bought a few kilograms of the local cheese from a factory opposite her home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp09xqwhy.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because when the monsoon starts, the green pastures with wildflowers and the Himalayas here look very beautiful. You can see the snow-covered mountains, you can see the animals, you can see the plentiful grasslands and our chauris everywhere.\" \u003Cem\u003E– Pasang Darche Tamang, cheesemaker\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EReasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutSubtitle":"Why do you love the world?","calloutTitle":"50 Reasons to Love the World – 2021","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I can't finish chewing that, even in a whole year!\" she responded with a hearty laugh. After all, chhurpi is considered to be the hardest cheese in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA traditional product prepared by pastoralists in the highlands of the Eastern Himalayas, chhurpi is a protein-rich cheese with a smoky flavour and hard consistency that gradually becomes chewier the longer you gnaw at it. It is made from the milk produced by \u003Cem\u003Echauri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a cross between a male yak and a female cow – and it's a favourite snack in pockets of eastern India and much of Nepal and Bhutan. People often chew on small cubes of the stuff for hours on end, like a rock-hard bubble gum that slowly softens with time and saliva. The solid snack's uniquely hard texture is a consequence of the high-altitude climate and the harsh lifestyle of the Himalayas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe previous day, at an altitude of 4,000m, high above the village of Parvathy Kund, a chhurpi maker from the nearby village of Gatlang named Pasang Darche Tamang patiently churned chauri milk in a makeshift tent perched at the end of a precipice. Fog rolled into the tent's opening from the green valley below as relentless rain pelted its blue canvas. Smoke from the wooden fire filled the tent, where dried pieces of meat hung over the boiling milk cauldron to extend its shelf life in the harsh, Himalayan altitudes. He had been turning the handle of the machine that separates milk from cream without a break for more than three hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It needs strength,\" Tamang said. \"Without force, the machine won't even turn.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery morning, Tamang wakes up at 04:00 to start milking his 25 chauris to make chhurpi. Several yak herders from nearby pastures visit Tamang's tent to deposit fresh milk from their own chauris throughout the day. Including the milk from his herd, Tamang collects more than 300 litres per day, which has to be turned into chhurpi immediately before it goes bad.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELiving on the roof of the world with limited trade opportunities and arable land, animal husbandry has been the mainstay of many Himalayan communities for centuries. According to Mukta Singh Lama Tamang (no relation to Pasang), an anthropologist at Tribhuvan University in Kathmandu, dairy has been an inextricable part of Himalayan culture and livelihood throughout history. Mukta says chhurpi was concocted thousands of years ago out of the need to do something productive with the extra milk that can't be consumed or sold anymore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210331-bhutans-350-year-old-recipe-for-wellbeing\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBhutan's 350-year-old recipe for wellbeing\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Swedish chef who cooks solely with fire\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210323-where-people-go-to-bars-to-drink-milk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere people go to bars to drink milk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the unique features of chhurpi is that it has a very low moisture content. This makes it very hard to bite into, but it also helps the cheese stay edible for months, or even years, when fermented for six to 12 months, dried and stored properly in animal skin. In the remote Himalayan highlands, this has made chhurpi particularly desirable, as yak herders have been able to rely on it during long journeys, as well as transport and sell it at markets. Since both fermentation and dehydration extends a food's shelf life, chhurpi is particularly well suited to high altitudes where there are few fresh supplies and other protein-rich foods. Soft chhurpi, before it is smoked and dried, is often used in curries, soups and pickled along with cucumber and radish, while the hard variety is chewed by itself as a snack.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe previous night, a few hundred meters below his cheese-making tent, three young calves were packed inside Pasang's small stone shelter while his 25 chauris were tied up outside. Pasang's father, Finjo, boiled chauri milk on an open fire, and once it was ready, he, Pasang and Pasang's uncle slurped on the hot milk with great pleasure as the flickering flame illuminated the hardened lines on their sunburnt faces. The three men had been living in the alpine grasslands for weeks, grazing the chauris in the verdant pastures and collecting fresh milk that would be turned into chhurpi daily. Their lives revolved entirely around their animals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're grateful to have all the chauris and be able to make chhurpi because we are illiterate and this is the only way [we] can sustain ourselves. This is what we know, how to make chhurpi, and this is how we will survive. Not only do we get to carry on our ancient culture, but this also helps us economically,\" said Pasang.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the rain outside gathered force, Finjo recounted his memories of the past: \"There was no road, and we had no provision to get essential supplies. We only had milk and nothing else. And we used to prepare whatever we could from it, like chhurpi and butter, and trade them in villages nearby in exchange for rice, grain, salt and oil. If we needed money, we'd go to a bigger market like Trishuli to get vegetables, which we would then bring back to our village and sell for money. It was tough.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven as roads have slowly cut through the mountainous valleys here, life is still difficult for pastoralists like Pasang. He has been rearing chauris for roughly 20 years, and has spent a considerable amount of his life away from family, staying high up in the pastures with his livestock for several months each year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There is a special kind of grass that only grows at this [3,500 to 4,000m] altitude, called \u003Cem\u003Ebuggi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, he said. \"The chauris don't lose weight in the winter when they eat buggi. And they produce thicker milk that tastes better when they graze here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot only is chhurpi organic, produced from the finest milk from chauri that exclusively graze on herbs and grass in the high alpine regions, it is also considered quite healthy and nutritious because of its very low fat content and high protein value. And no preservatives or additives are needed when following the ancient preparation method that has been perfected over centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter the cream is removed, the skimmed milk is thoroughly boiled and mixed with whey from previously curdled milk and other acidic agents like lime or citric acid. Cheese curds form almost instantly, coagulating and separating from the clear whey liquid. The solid mass is strained and collected in cotton or jute bags, and the blocks are beaten and pressed tight under big stones or other heavy weights for 24 hours to remove excess water. These solid blocks of cheese are left to ferment for a few days before being cut into rectangular blocks that are dried in the shade and smoked over kitchen fires, giving chhurpi its distinct taste and texture. Properly cured chhurpi will stay edible without becoming mouldy for up to 20 years. However, the longer it is cured, the drier and harder it gets. According to Pasang, chhurpi tastes best when it's eaten within the first five to six months.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELong before visiting Pasang, I once tried to eat a chhurpi cube in Kathmandu, where it is often found in local shops, and I timed how long it would take for fun. My Nepali friend devoured a piece in six minutes 53 seconds, but after working on mine for just as long, my teeth hurt and my chhurpi had nary a scratch on it. Soft chhurpi tastes similar to crude paneer, but the harder it gets, the more flavour it loses. It Is said hard chhurpi takes anything between minutes to hours to soften, after which it tastes like a dense milky solid with a smoky flavour as it dissolves slowly. The so-called world's hardest cheese is admittedly not everyone's cup of tea, and I never could bite into one so far, but Nepalis across the country adore it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked Pasang whether he liked chhurpi, despite all the hardships involved in making it, there was a spark in his eyes. \"\u003Cem\u003EEkdum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E!\" he replied – Nepali for, \"Absolutely!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel celebrates \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fbespoke\u002F50-reasons-to-love-the-world\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E50 Reasons to Love the World\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E in 2021, through the inspiration of well-known voices as well as unsung heroes in local communities around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-06T19:57:26Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Chhurpi: The world's hardest cheese?","headlineShort":"The world's hardest cheese?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"28.15605","longitude":"85.26109","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Created thousands of years ago in the remote reaches of the Himalayas, chhurpi can be eaten for up to 20 years.","summaryShort":"It can be eaten for up to 20 years","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-05T20:04:48.454563Z","entity":"article","guid":"781eec95-1bb7-4847-acf3-86ffe1555ef4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-06T13:02:55.647411Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135639},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese","_id":"6183c26645ceed5c8c1023ad","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A political refugee who settled in the Italian Dolomites single-handedly helped to revitalise a vanishing Italian town and its endangered breed of goats.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAfter this story was reported, Agitu Idea Gudeta was tragically killed. Her \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Efamily gave BBC Travel permission to publish this story in her memory. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETucked away in north-east Italy’s Dolomite mountains, the 350-person town of Frassilongo is a collection of Alpine huts clinging to steep hillsides that climb up rugged snow-capped peaks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I was immediately struck by the wild beauty of this place","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe rolling Mòcheni Valley surrounding the tiny town, the medieval Mòcheno Germanic language spoken by the valley's 1,900 inhabitants and the hardy Mòcheni people who have been living here for the past nine centuries all share their unique name and identity with the Mòcheno goat that is native to these mountains. And today, residents of this remote corner of Europe still cling fiercely to a distinct blend of Italian and Germanic culture that rings through the valley.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet, the first time Agitu Idea Gudeta stepped foot into this Alpine setting after arriving from Ethiopia, she said it felt like home. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I was immediately struck by the wild beauty of this place,\" she said. \"It’s one of the few untamed valleys here in [the] Trentino [province].\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGudeta was the proud owner of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.lacaprafelice.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Capra Felice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (The Happy Goat), an award-winning dairy farm in Frassilongo, located 20km east of Trentino’s capital, Trento. For centuries, the Mòcheni people enjoyed a rural livelihood based on agriculture, mining and trade with the surrounding valleys. But following Italy’s post-World War Two industrialisation, many locals left their \u003Cem\u003Emasos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Alpine farms) to look for jobs in cities. In the past 50 years, Frassilongo’s population has declined by nearly half and most of its agricultural land has been abandoned. In fact, it wasn’t until 2010 that the first new business opened in Frassilongo in 30 years: Gudeta’s \"Happy Goat\" farm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGudeta's farm is now one of the only places that appears on Google Maps when you search for Frassilongo, and people often visit the tiny town from across Trentino and nearby South Tyrol province to find Agitu’s famed products.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMuch like the first Mòcheni settlers who moved to the valley from southern Germany in the 12th Century, Gudeta arrived here looking for land to start life anew. Raised by a family of nomadic shepherds in Addis Ababa, she was forced to flee her home country in 2010 when the government issued a warrant for her arrest after she led local farmers to protest against government appropriation of their land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Eighty percent of land in Ethiopia is owned by multinationals who grow export crops,\" she explained. \"When I heard that the government wanted to take over the little land that is left for farmers, I started to organise public protests.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFaced with a possible jail sentence, Gudeta decided to flee. In the early 2000s, she had studied at the University of Trento for three years, and a network of local friends were able to help her settle back in Italy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200928-the-surprising-origin-of-burrata-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe surprising origin of Italy's creamy cheese\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201208-is-this-europes-new-wellness-trend\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe birthplace of Alpine hay bathing\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200517-campione-ditalia-an-italian-town-surrounded-by-switzerland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn Italian town surrounded by Switzerland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was during her studies when she first heard of the endangered Mòcheno goat: a doe-eyed creature sporting a black-and-white mantle and sabre-shaped horns that was once a common sight in Bersntol, the local name for the valley.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Goats were used by families for wool, butter and cheese,\" said Leo Toller, curator at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bersntol.it\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstitute of Mòcheni Culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the nearby town of Palù, which, along with Fierozzo, Sant’Orsola and Frassilongo is one of the four towns still inhabited by the Mòcheni people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Toller, Mòcheni goats were traditionally an integral part of local life, and their grazing patterns shaped the seasonal movements of the Mòcheni people. Shepherds took the goats up to mountain pastures in summer and down to the valley during winter. But the combined impact of industrial farming and emigration after World War Two led to the abandonment of this practice. Plus, many commercial shepherds were not interested in raising Mòcheni goats because they produce less milk than other breeds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"By 2005, only seven Mòcheni goats remained and the breed was 'about to be extinct'","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy 2005, a census reported that \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.giornaletrentino.it\u002Fcronaca\u002Ftrento\u002Fcapra-mochena-l-estinzione-%252525C3%252525A8-evitata-1.1147208\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eonly seven Mòcheni goats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E remained and the breed was \"about to be extinct\". Four years later, a group of local shepherds teamed up to create the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tastetrentino.it\u002Fen\u002Fdiscover\u002Fbodies-and-associations\u002Fassociazione-allevatori-capra-pezzata-mochena\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAssociation of Mòcheni Goat Breeders\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a non-profit organisation that has since helped to repopulate the animals, which can reproduce up to two times a year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"When I heard that a friend of mine was involved with repopulation efforts, I decided to take on a few goats [in 2010],\" Gudeta said. Having grown up surrounded by nomadic goat shepherds, she felt she could help revive the Mòcheni population and give back to her new home. Thanks to a local law that allows citizens to take on abandoned land for herding or farming, she was able to secure an 11-hectare pasture for her new collection of 15 goats.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt first \"Agi\", as locals called Gudeta, would wake up at 06:00 to take the goats out for four hours in the fields near Val di Gresta, 56km south-west of Frassilongo, before her shift as a barista in a cafe in the nearby town of Mori. After saving some money, she decided to relocate her flock to the Mocheni valley, in an area above Frassilongo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Gudeta, most shepherds in the area had become used to raising \"high-performing\" goats that were kept indoors and fed artificial fodder so they would produce more milk. Luckily, the goat herding techniques she learned from her grandmother in Ethiopia proved effective in rearing this endangered Italian breed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"Nomadic shepherds never keep goats indoors and only feed them herbs found in fields,\" she explained. \"I avoided using man-made feed and instead took them grazing in their own indigenous environment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThanks to nutritious wild herbs, plenty of groundwater and the right mix of herding and rest, Gudeta’s 15 goats started to thrive. By 2012, Gudeta decided to put the mild-flavoured, soft caciotta cheese; yoghurt and other products she was making for her own consumption on the market. She studied local business laws and applied for a permit to start a dairy farm, but her ambition clashed with traditional local culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn an ethnically homogenous valley where labour has historically been segregated by gender, the idea of an Ethiopian woman making cheese raised a few eyebrows. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They didn’t think a woman could be a shepherd","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"People looked at me like I was crazy,\" Gudeta said. \"They didn’t think a woman could be a shepherd.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter navigating the region’s bureaucratic laws, Gudeta – who not only spoke fluent Italian but also Trentino’s dialect – was able to obtain the required permits to run her farm. With a budget of €200 and the help of an intern, she started making cheese in the basement of Frassilongo’s former kindergarten, which had been vacant for years due to a lack of pupils.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShe named her venture La Capra Felice because, as she stated, \"My goats are happy.\" Indeed, compared with most large-scale farms, Gudeta’s goats enjoy wide-open space, natural food and highly personalised treatment. Gudeta called each goat by name based on their personality: The Anarchist never follows the rest of the herd, while The Rascal often hides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESince starting her farm, Gudeta took in and trained a migrant from Mali and a refugee from The Gambia to work as shepherds in order to give a chance to two people who, like her, had to flee their countries for economic or political reasons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Gudeta's cheeses were awarded the Dairy Resistance prize by Slow Food","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGudeta’s cheese eventually earned her the respect of even the most sceptical local. According to Toller, Mòcheni goat milk has always been a staple of local gastronomy. Many centuries-old dishes, including kropfens (dumplings filled with cabbage and goats’ cheese) are made using Mòcheni milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy following the same traditional cheesemaking techniques used by locals and her family back in Ethiopia based on unpasteurised milk, rennet and salt, Gudeta was able to recreate flavours that have been part of Mòcheni gastronomy for centuries. Very often, her caciotta and goats’ milk gorgonzola incorporate distinctive seasonal flavours like thyme or ramson based on the herbs eaten by goats at different times of year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2015, her cheeses were awarded the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.slowfood.com\u002Fpress-release\u002Finaugurata-la-decima-edizione-di-cheese-con-i-protagonisti-del-premio-resistenza-casearia-2015\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDairy Resistance\u003C\u002Fa\u003E prize, an award granted by Slow Food to cheesemakers practicing traditional techniques. Many elderly locals looked up to Gudeta, and Bruno Groff, who served as mayor of Frassilongo until 2020, said Gudeta’s farm was a “breath of fresh air and the proof that everything is possible”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet, not everyone has welcomed Gudeta’s success. In 2018, a man repeatedly harassed her and her two African shepherds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"I was walking down the road that leads to our pasture and heard a man shouting at us to go back home,\" Gudeta said. At first, she and the other shepherds thought it was an isolated episode. But verbal attacks eventually escalated to physical aggression. Two of Gudeta’s goats were killed and her car was damaged. When Gudeta recorded her aggressor on video, he was finally prosecuted. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs news of Gudeta’s aggression spread, many locals took to social media and local radio stations to express their solidarity with \"Agi\". Groff also condemned the episode and publicly defended Guideta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I have been in Trentino on and off for 20 years and never perceived hostility like [that],\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The Mòcheno community has always welcomed Agitu for her inspiring story and her hard work,\" said Claudia Marchesoni, a curator at the Institute of Mòcheno Culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGudeta became a fixture in the community. She sold her cheese and goat milk body lotions from her shop in Frassilongo and at farmers’ markets around Trentino. She regularly hosted students eager to learn organic practices in exchange for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwwoof.it\u002Fit\u002Fuser\u002F156891\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eroom and board\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and organised workshops on traditional agriculture for local children. Her next plan was to create a farmstay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGuests would live in solar-powered huts and participate in cheesemaking workshops, foraging lessons and cooking classes. Gudeta hoped that learning about how food is made will spur people to adopt more sustainable practices.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut for now, Gudeta’s ultimate dream has been paused.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAgi's legacy\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETragically, after this story was reported, Gudeta was killed by one of her employees, who confessed to murdering her for economic reasons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENews of Gudeta’s death left millions of people in shock. For days, photos of the Ethiopian woman surrounded by her loving goats were on the front page of every major Italian newspaper. For a valley used to almost no crime, Gudeta’s murder came as an unfathomable trauma.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"We heard about it while we were having a city council meeting, and no-one could carry on speaking,\" said Trento’s mayor Franco Ianeselli. Two days after her passing, thousands of people gathered in Trento’s main square for a torchlight march.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-26"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-27"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It’s hard to imagine such participation for the death of a businesswoman,\" one man told national \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rainews.it\u002Ftgr\u002Ftrento\u002Fvideo\u002F2020\u002F12\u002Ftnt-fiaccolata-agitu-non-vendeva-coraggio-ma-amore-per-la-vita-83a9f9d4-a823-4f64-9cfc-dae5f0346773.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETV broadcaster RAI\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"But she was not just selling cheese, she was sharing love for life.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-28"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"She was not just selling cheese, she was sharing love for life","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-29"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, the local community is determined to not let Gudeta's death overshadow her legacy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn January, millions of people from around the world flooded the internet with poems, drawings and videos inspired by her life. And within one week of her passing, a fundraising initiative was started to continue Agitu's dream of raising local goats and opening a farmstay. To date, it has raised more than €110,000.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome of Gudeta’s closest friends – including Manuela Gualdi, a consultant for non-profit businesses who worked with her on grant applications, are working with a public notary to find a legal way to use the funds to keep Gudeta's business alive and to carry on her dream of opening a farmstay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-30"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-31"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We are discussing ways to keep her projects going as well as ways to honour her legacy,” Ianeselli said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGualdi hopes the money will be spent on projects that evoke Gudeta’s sense of hospitality like the farm stay. \"Sure, she loved her goats, her dairy-farm and going to markets,” Gualdi said. \"But what she loved the most was having people around and sharing her love for animals and for nature.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-32"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"By choosing to live here, she showed us the potential of this place","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-33"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPossible initiatives to honour Gudeta’s legacy include a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.liveworksaward.com\u002Fagitu-ideo-gudeta\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efellowship in her name\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dedicated to young female shepherds and the creation of an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.corriere.it\u002Fbuone-notizie\u002F21_febbraio_19\u002Fagitu-simbolo-pastore-una-giornata-internazionale-ricordarla-b18f2b04-7217-11eb-893c-20b27ab3b588.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einternational female shepherds day\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStefano Molter, who heads the Association for the Preservation of the Mòcheni Goat, says that Gudeta's determination is what will stay with him the most. \"We used to banter about her stubbornness,\" he said. \"Yet it's precisely her determination that left a mark in our community.\" He explains that Gudeta's example has changed the way most people think of the area. \"In a valley where most young people leave to find jobs in urban areas, it took a foreign woman to show us what can actually be done right here.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-34"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-35"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Many reporters framed Gudeta story as one of successful integration,\" Ianeselli added, \"but I think it's the other way around: by choosing to live here, she showed us the potential of this place.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese-36"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-04-02T19:41:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Ethiopian who saved an Italian goat cheese","headlineShort":"The refugee who saved an Italian town","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A political refugee who settled in the Italian Dolomites single-handedly helped to revitalise a vanishing Italian town and its endangered breed of goats.","summaryShort":"Forced to flee her home, an Ethiopian shepherd made award-winning Italian cheese","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-04-01T19:44:54.343998Z","entity":"article","guid":"aff6954d-10d6-4667-a400-1aab94d0cc78","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:05:56.71525Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135640},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200108-the-woman-saving-georgias-lost-cheeses":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200108-the-woman-saving-georgias-lost-cheeses","_id":"6183c25145ceed54171fe037","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Georgia’s artisanal cheesemaking tradition was forced underground due to an oppressive Soviet-planned economy, but one woman is dedicated to bringing the ancient varieties back.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200108-the-woman-saving-georgias-lost-cheeses-0"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-01-09T19:55:15Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The woman saving Georgia’s lost cheeses","headlineShort":"The forgotten European cheeses","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Georgia’s artisanal cheesemaking tradition was forced underground due to an oppressive Soviet-planned economy, but one woman is dedicated to bringing the ancient varieties back.","summaryShort":"People thought they’d be punished if they made them","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-01-08T20:00:02.842533Z","entity":"article","guid":"9e996544-55b0-4927-b3f4-ecd673ca9803","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200108-the-woman-saving-georgias-lost-cheeses","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:30:45.099733Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200108-the-woman-saving-georgias-lost-cheeses","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135640},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese","_id":"618c59d945ceed559237fde1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flizzie-enfield"],"bodyIntro":"Cheddar has conquered the world, but it wasn't produced in its namesake English town for years. Now, an award-winning dairy is putting Cheddar, England back on the map.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStilton, Cheshire, red Leicester. There are more than 700 cheeses produced in the UK, but in parts of the English-speaking world, a certain type is so ubiquitous that it's simply referred to as \"cheese\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECheddar is the most popular cheese in the UK, accounting for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.farminguk.com\u002Fnews\u002Fcheese-sales-in-uk-soared-last-year-figures-show_57809.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enearly half of all British cheese sales\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and according to recent polls, it's the favourite cheese among \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftoday.yougov.com\u002Ftopics\u002Fpolitics\u002Fsurvey-results\u002Fdaily\u002F2021\u002F03\u002F04\u002F06340\u002F1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmericans\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.begacheese.com.au\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2021\u002F08\u002FFY2021-Full-Year-Results-Presentation.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAussies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and one of the most-eaten types in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.statista.com\u002Ftopics\u002F4202\u002Fcheese-market-in-canada\u002F#dossierKeyfigures\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, too. But while cheddar has become a dairy staple from Wisconsin to Wales, the fact that one of the world's most-consumed cheeses has no protected designation of origin means that it's also become one of the most mass-produced. These days, industrialised cheddar is churned out in more than a dozen countries and the plastic-packaged blocks bear little resemblance to their cave-matured predecessors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut if you want to taste authentic cheddar cheese, the way it originally tasted, you need to visit the 5,400-person village of Cheddar in the county of Somerset in south-west England. Here, as far back as the late Middle Ages, cheesemakers used caves in the towering limestone cliffs of Cheddar Gorge as natural refrigerators.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b2gjyh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack then – and for centuries afterward – cheese would have been made in small individual dairies. But as a result of rationing during World War Two, most of the milk in Britain was used to make a single generic cheese dubbed \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.forces.net\u002Fmilitary-life\u002Ffood\u002Fcheese-essential-item-ww2-propaganda\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGovernment Cheddar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\". This nearly wiped out local cheese production in Britain, slashing the number of farmhouse producers from more than 3,500 before World War One to barely 100 by the end of WW2, and, for years afterward, there was no-one making traditional cheddar in Cheddar. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat finally changed in 2003 when one local couple, Katherine and John Spencer, decided to revive the cheesemaking methods that had made the name of their village world famous. And now, their Cheddar-made cheddar is winning international awards.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We spotted a gap in the market for a traditional Cheddar made where it all began,\" Katherine explained from the small office adjacent to the couples' \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cheddaronline.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECheddar Gorge Cheese Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dairy. \"Our aim was to perfect a quality handmade cheese, using raw milk from one farm that was more akin to the cheese that would have been made here hundreds of years ago than the mass-produced blocks we tend to associate with cheddar today.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the couple had a background in the cheese industry (Katherine had worked as a continental cheese importer and John in supermarket supply), this was a new direction. With three experienced cheesemakers working for them, they began researching local and historical cheese recipes. Over a six-year period, they perfected their brand of cheddar, eventually persuading local landowner Lord Bath to allow them to store some of their cheese in the same caves that gave the original cheddar its unique taste centuries earlier.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b2gkpg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to professor Paul Kindstedt, who teaches a course on the history of cheese at University of Vermont, cheddar's origins go back to the 14th Century, when local cheesemakers implemented a process known as \"scalding\" (heating the curds to high temperatures in order to force liquid whey from the cheese) before pressing the curds into a harder cheese. Since a cheese's moisture level is what makes it perishable, scalding enabled cheddar to last longer. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The superior quality of the cheese caught the attention of wealthy Londoners who visited the renowned caves of Cheddar Gorge and dined on local cheeses during their visits,\" said Kindstedt. \"They spread the word, and the cheese from Cheddar acquired a positive reputation from around the 15th Century on.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChhurpi: The world's hardest cheese?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210426-qurt-a-kazakh-cheese-of-resilience\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EQurt: A Kazakh \"cheese of resilience\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190127-italys-practically-perfect-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly's practically perfect food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, during part of Charles I's reign from 1625-1649, demand outweighed supply, and cheese from Cheddar was only available at the king's court. Even then, orders had to be placed well in advance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the mid-17th Century, London had become England's main cheese market and there was pressure on cheesemongers to increase the size of their wheels. As a result, Cheddar-area cheesemakers developed a process known as \"cheddaring\", in which they pressed milled curds to reduce the liquid whey. Decreasing the cheese's moisture levels after scalding rendered it even more solid, making it easier to shape the cheddar into larger, longer-lasting wheels that could be transported to London and beyond.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b2gl0l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The combination of scalding and cheddaring opened the door for cheesemakers all over the globe, including in America, to produce a magnificent cheese,\" Kindsted said. \"My home state of Vermont began producing this style of cheese under the revered name of 'cheddar' around 200 years ago. Vermont cheddar cheesemakers are keenly aware of the debt of gratitude that is owed to their English cheesemaker counterparts.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to the widespread replication of cheddaring and scalding, cheddar's march around the globe was further helped by two things, starting with emigration. As Brits moved to other parts of the world, they took English cheesemaking traditions with them. Many of these places – such as the US, Canada and Australia – are where cheddar continues to be wildly popular today. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe second is packaging. \"In the early 19th Century, American cheesemakers began wrapping their cheeses in cotton cloth, greased with lard which limited moisture loss during aging and storage,\" said Kindstedt. \"This evolved into waxing the cheese surface and later into wrapping cheese in vacuum-packed plastic laminated film.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis development allowed cheddar production to be scaled-up and industrialised to an extent the world had never seen. Before long, there was so much cheddar cheese being produced outside of England that the US became a major supplier of cheddar to England and led to a decline in the industry there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b2gl5c"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut while cheddar was being recreated around the globe, it remained quintessentially British. In 1840 Queen Victoria received a massive cheddar \"drum\" weighing 558kg as a wedding gift. And Royal Navy officer Robert Falcon Scott took nearly 1,600kg of the stuff with him on board The Discovery during his famous 1901 expedition of Antarctica. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Katherine, cheddar's early popularity was intrinsically tied to the climate and topography around the village where it was first produced. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Somerset we have a lot of rainfall, which produces good quality grass, and the Holstein Freisian cattle which graze it have just the right combination of fat and protein in their milk to make a quality hard cheese,\" she explained. \"Where nowadays dairies use milk from different herds, we use a single unpasteurised milk and begin cheesemaking within an hour of milking, just as our predecessors would have done.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom behind a glass viewing gallery, visitors to the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company can watch cheesemakers perform the intensely physical ritual of cheddaring. They shovel heated curds onto a cooling table, squeeze them into blocks, pull a large cheese knife through to cut the blocks before turning, stacking, squeezing and re-cutting the blocks as soon as the curds begin to knit together to remove every last remnant of whey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b2glfy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn pre-Covid times, visitors could also take a tour of the nearby caves and see the cheeses stored on high shelves behind protective wire-mesh screens (to stop the bats that also inhabit the caves from getting at them).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The humidity in the caves allows the moulds on the outside of the cheese to bloom","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The humidity in the caves allows the moulds on the outside of the cheese to bloom,\" said Katherine, as she showed me cheese surrounded with mould so white and fluffy it resembled cotton wool. \"This produces a flavour that is much more earthy and complex than other cheese. There are hints of mould and multiple layers of taste that continue to develop on the tongue.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis robust-tasting cheese made in the Cheddar caves is what captured the imagination of 17th-Century Britain, and later the world. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The story of cheddar, its spread, its bastardisation, its loss of identity and its reinvention is a very good example of… the very complex way in which society and economics and capitalist philosophies work,\" said food historian and broadcaster Dr Annie Gray. \"The return of small-scale production speaks volumes about our desire to revalue foodstuffs, to be inspired by the past and to recognise the glories of British food. But these tend to be values that only the middle classes can afford to support.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b2gm5s"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECase in point: 200g of The Spenser's cheddar costs about £5.60, whereas standard supermarket cheddar blocks can sell for as little as £1.00, but the taste is very different; the stuff from Cheddar has a sharp, strong taste that develops in the mouth, much like a fine wine. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Spencer's Cheddar has also \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cheddaronline.co.uk\u002Faward-winning-cheese\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewon many prestigious awards\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, including two gold medals at the 2021 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.globalcheeseawards.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGlobal Cheese Awards\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for its cave-matured and yellow cheddar and a silver for its vintage cheddar (which is aged up to 30 months). That's no mean feat for a small producer from a tiny town competing with larger ones all over the world. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"If cheddar had remained a small-batch West Country product, it might well have disappeared altogether, as many regional cheeses have,\" said Katherine. \"Its transition to a major global player has created international recognition, and with it, an appetite for our product that is closer to the original cheddar that would have been made here hundreds of years ago. Our success mirrors the success of cheddar as a cheese in all its forms.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-11-11T10:44:47Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The UK village that lost its cheese","headlineShort":"The UK village that lost its cheese","image":["p0b2gjbs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.2802","longitude":"2.7767","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0b2gl0l"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210401-the-ethiopian-who-saved-an-italian-goat-cheese","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200108-the-woman-saving-georgias-lost-cheeses"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Cheddar has conquered the world, but it wasn't produced in its namesake English town for years. Now, an award-winning dairy is putting Cheddar, England back on the map.","summaryShort":"For years, no-one made cheddar in Cheddar","tag":["tag\u002Ffood"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-11-10T23:46:25.874546Z","entity":"article","guid":"6537839f-c01d-4f31-8791-8e3800cdd2d9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese","modifiedDateTime":"2021-11-11T13:19:31.228424Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135639},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die","_id":"6183c25145ceed5b68165022","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"For Hindus, Varanasi is one of the holiest cities in the world, and ‘salvation homes’ have been set up across the city to house the men and women who come to live – and die – here.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a sunny November afternoon in Varanasi last year, I was standing under the shade of a huge neem tree in the courtyard of Mumukshu Bhawan guest house (‘'House of Those Seeking Salvation’). As I listened to the sound of prayer coming from a nearby room, I was accosted by a short woman holding a large packet of \u003Cem\u003Enamak para\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a crunchy ribbon-like snack made of flour or semolina, common in North India.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I won’t let you in unless you eat some of it,” declared the octogenarian, almost admonishingly, after I told her that I wasn’t hungry. Her wrinkled face broke into a tender smile as I pulled out a piece of the fried snack and savoured its salty flavour. “One should keep eating at regular intervals,” she said, looking at me affectionately. I wanted to ask her about the prayer I was listening to, but she hurried out of the courtyard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe lodge’s manager, Manish Kumar Pandey, later told me that Saraswati Aggarwal was a widow with no children, and had come here from somewhere near Varanasi around four years ago after her husband died.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When I die, I hope they will come to take me to the pyre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFellow resident Gayatri Devi from Rajasthan, who had been at the lodge for more than five years, has a son and two daughters living in other parts of India, but they rarely visit her, she told me, as we later sat on a wooden bench in the courtyard talking about everything from her family to my family to her life philosophy and women’s rights. She had a warm smile and looked happy to talk. “Things change when your kids get married,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESati Devi, who sat beside us on the bench with a blue woollen shawl wrapped around her shoulders, nodded silently in agreement. She, too, had been living at the guest house for five years. “I have no complaints though,” Gayatri Devi continued. “When I die, I hope they will come to take me to the pyre.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese three women are among the hundreds of people who have been living in Varanasi for years, waiting for death to come.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190307-the-tiny-indian-village-that-banned-shoes\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA barefoot village scared of a curse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180918-the-snake-people-of-southern-india\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Indian tribe that deals in venom\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170727-a-2500km-journey-to-the-indian-ocean\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA 2,500km journey to the Indian Ocean\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Hindus, Varanasi is one of the holiest cities in the world. When the Pandava princes, the five protagonists of the ancient Indian epic Mahabharata, won a deadly war of succession against their cousins, they journeyed to Kashi, also known as Benares or Varanasi, to atone for their wartime sins. People in search of \u003Cem\u003Emoksha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (liberation) have been travelling to this northern Indian city for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHindu scriptures say that dying here and getting cremated along the banks of the holy Ganges river allows you to break the cycle of rebirth and attain salvation. Funeral pyres burn incessantly at Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats, the steps leading down to the river, whose water, now grey from industrial and human waste, is believed to wash away the sins of even the worst transgressors. As tourists and pilgrims row past the ghats in boats, priests and the families of the deceased can be seen murmuring and chanting for the release of the dead person’s soul amid the thick cloud of smoke emanating from the melting flesh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDesignated lodges, known as salvation homes, have been set up in the city, funded by charity organisations and business groups to specifically cater to \u003Cem\u003Ekashivasis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, men and women who come to live – and die – in Kashi. Mumukshu Bhawan is one of the oldest of these establishments, with 40 of its 116 rooms allotted to kashivasis. “We get tons of applications every year, but given the limited number of rooms [that can be] occupied by people for years, we can’t welcome them all,” explained VK Aggarwal, operations manager at the lodge. “We give preference to those who appear more needy, are capable of bearing their own expenses, and have relatives to take care of their health and cremation rituals when they are gone. We do not admit anyone under the age of 60,” he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKashivasis pay a donation of about 100,000 rupees (around £1,135) depending on their personal capacity, and are allotted a room in the lodge where they can stay until their death. “They are required to make their own food arrangements; we don’t provide it. However, if someone feels unable to bear the cost, the management usually steps up for help, as for cremation,” Aggarwal said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome rooms are bigger than others and come equipped with air conditioners and spaces for cooking. Bathrooms are shared, and there are homeopathic and ayurvedic medicine centres in case someone falls ill. The residents are free to hire help for chores like cooking and cleaning. Days are spent chanting prayers and chatting with fellow residents, Gayatri Devi told me, sitting with an old transistor radio by her side.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"People come here for penance – it’s not a hotel","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt Mukti Bhawan (‘Liberation Home’), another such establishment tucked in a narrow lane in Varanasi, the set-up is radically different. “People come here for penance. It’s not a hotel. What’s the need for luxuries like an air conditioner?” said caretaker Narhari Shukla as we sat in his office one afternoon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMukti Bhawan allows a maximum stay of just 15 days. If the ailing person doesn’t die during that time, they are politely asked to leave. “We make a few exceptions though. The manager may sometimes allow for an overstay depending on the person’s health,” Shukla said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGuests pay 20 rupees (23p) per day to cover electricity costs, and are expected to spend their time worshipping god; there is a small temple on the premises where \u003Cem\u003Ebhajan \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eand\u003Cem\u003E kirtan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the chanting of hymns, take place every day. Playing cards, indulging in sexual activity, and eating meat, egg, onion and garlic, the foods deemed impure by certain sects of Hinduism, are prohibited.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I visited there were no guests staying, but I asked Shukla if he could show me around the eight-room lodge anyway. Two priests sitting by the temple looked up as we passed by. They, too, live on the premises. A green wooden door creaked open as the young man led me into a small room with stained white walls. A small window allowed shafts of sunlight to illuminate the suspended dust particles. A wooden cot lay in a corner. I immediately pictured an old woman dying on it. Shukla told me that the guest’s family members stay in the same room and bring their own bedding and other necessary items.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe also explained that the home sees an influx of guests in the cold months of December to February and the period between May and August, when the heat makes it difficult for the infirm and ailing. “We have hosted people who then went on to live for another two years after leaving. And we have had people who died the moment they reached home after waiting here for death for two weeks. It’s all in his hands, really,” he said, pointing above. “If he doesn’t wish so, you may spend years in Kashi and yet you won’t die.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI was reminded of Sati Devi at Mumukshu Bhawan, who said that she had lost track of time living in Varanasi. Another woman named Vimla Devi from Hyderabad waited for 40 years in Varanasi before she died last year at Mumukshu Bhawan, Pandey told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI wondered if Gayatri Devi and Saraswati Agarwal would have chosen to spend the last few years of their life alone at a lodge in Varanasi, had their children provided for them. But Pandey had also told me about couples who gave their successful businesses to their children in order to come to Varanasi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“People want to leave the world with some good deeds in their name,” Shukla said as we made our way back to his office, telling me that a former manager here once hosted a Naxalite, a member of a Mao-inspired insurgent group, who was often involved in conflict with the Indian government. “We have had many criminals come here,” he continued. “You see, even the worst criminals have a religion to follow and want to atone for their sins before they leave.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We do not fear death – we celebrate it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBack in his office, I looked around at the modest room with basic wooden furniture and peeling walls. Hindu scriptures and thick dusty folders containing guest records occupied the shelves. I was cautious while asking questions about the dead, but Shukla’s nonchalance about it seemed almost unsettling, as much as it put me at ease. Can death be so commonplace?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI asked him how it felt being surrounded by death. He replied, “We do not fear death. We celebrate it. People come here with hope, not fear... It’s the city of Lord Shiva.” My mind conjured up an image of Shiva sitting in a meditative pose with a trident by his side. According to Hindus, Shiva is the god of destruction, and he destroys in order to recreate. As an old local saying goes: ‘To reach the heaven, you have to die first.’\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA few weeks after I returned home, Gayatri Devi passed away. Pandey casually told me over the phone when I called him about something else and asked after the women. I was shocked. He was silent, indifferent, much like Shukla. I asked him if her daughter had come to take her to the pyre. He said she had.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-06-18T19:18:56Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"India’s city where people come to die","headlineShort":"India’s curious ‘death hotels’","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For Hindus, Varanasi is one of the holiest cities in the world, and ‘salvation homes’ have been set up across the city to house the men and women who come to live – and die – here.","summaryShort":"‘People come here with hope, not fear’","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2019-06-18T07:00:41.264326Z","entity":"article","guid":"206ae8ab-c961-479f-81a6-069812fe174d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:16:29.97095Z","project":"travel","slug":"20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135640},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake","_id":"6183c25b45ceed5ac506df42","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Nearly 80 years after the Himalayan lake first captured the world's imagination, the mystery continues to confound – even as revolutionary advances are made in understanding our past.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe rising sun was yet to shine on the freezing, snow-covered cirque where I was resting after an early morning trudge to a glacial tarn. Cold and miserable, at a dizzying height of 4,800m in the Indian Himalayas, I couldn't summon the energy to care about the pile of human skeletons stacked next to the frozen lake known as Roopkund. In 2009, when I went on the trek, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-india-56116533\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe mystery of \"Skeleton Lake\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was considered solved and Roopkund trek was well on its way to changing the course of the nascent trekking scene in India.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, more than a decade on, not only has the small lake become a victim of its fame but it continues to confound even as revolutionary advances have been made in understanding our past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1942, H K Madhwal, an Indian forest official, stumbled upon hundreds of human skeletons stockpiled in and around Roopkund lake. He reported the bizarre find – a mysterious lake where between 300 to 800 people met their tragic end – and the frigid Himalayas continued to preserve the human remains. In the late 1950s, the macabre mountain find was announced to the public, raising great interest and triggering several investigations that continue to date.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll of that was only secondary to scores of trekkers who, like me, have trekked to Roopkund in the last decade, chiefly enamoured by the unparalleled views, diverse landscapes and challenging route.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESituated five days from the nearest settlement in Uttarakhand state, the week-long trek spanning more than 50km sets off from idyllic Himalayan villages that are no more than a cluster of traditional houses. Passing through ethereal mist and moss-covered oak forests, the trail then winds along expansive wildflower-laden alpine pastures, locally known as \u003Cem\u003Ebugyals\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, that occur only above the height of 3,300m in the Himalayas. Lofty Himalayan peaks soon come into view and dominate the horizon for the next couple of days. The highest point of the trek at 5,000m is Junargali, a knife-edge-like ridge with a 360-degree view of the high Himalayas and the rugged glacial landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERoopkund lies 200m below this ridge. The treacherous, steep climb to Junargali has led to a running joke among trekkers that one wrong step could easily add more bones to the existing pile in the lake. Nearly 80 years after Skeleton Lake first captured the world's imagination, that simple joke doesn't seem too far-fetched after recent revelations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Human bones and skeletons at Roopkund lake, India","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInitially, the skeletons were thought to belong to Japanese soldiers or Tibetan traders on the Silk Road who died due to either an epidemic or exposure to the elements. Later, after forensic analysis in 2004, the best theory was that a group of Indian pilgrims, both men and women, assisted by local porters from the region, were struck by giant hail at Roopkund in a single event in the 9th Century, so concluded from the perimortem injuries on the skulls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey were believed to have been on a revered, once-in-a-12-year Hindu pilgrimage called Nanda Devi Raj Jat Yatra, an ancient tradition that continues to this day. Roopkund is on the way to Homkund, the final destination of this arduous foot journey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They were believed to have been on a revered, once-in-a-12-year Hindu pilgrimage","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EVeena Mushrif-Tripathy, professor of archaeology at Deccan College in Pune, was part of the 2004 investigation. She recounts the team concluded the pilgrim theory as most plausible as there were no weapons at the site, indicating the cause of death was not an attack and that they were not soldiers. They also found remnants of musical instruments, and there were old folk stories of pilgrims travelling on the Nanda Devi Raj Jat Yatra. The DNA analysis, Mushrif-Tripathy said, revealed it was a male-female group belonging to a wide age range, further strengthening this hypothesis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I trekked to Roopkund, a crude reduction of this theory was given as an explanation for the bones. We were also regaled with fantastical tales of angry goddesses, irreverent pilgrims and dancers turned to stone. Every campsite, every pond and so many other landmarks on the way were imbued with elaborate folklore. This heady mix of awe-inspiring nature and riveting mythology turned the morbid Roopkund into an enchanting curiosity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt isn't surprising, then, that Roopkund inadvertently drove the rapid commercialisation of the Indian trekking scene. In 2009, a Bengaluru-based company launched an affordable group trek to Roopkund that could be booked online. The IT boom in India had led to rising disposable incomes that coincided with the newly accessible slopes of the Indian Himalayas, which until that point had mostly been only explored by hardy alpine types.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tent in snow during the trek to Roopkund in Uttarakhand, India","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPredictably, Indian trekkers flocked to master the difficult yet highly rewarding Roopkund trek. Following this success, similar companies mushroomed across the country, popularising more trails across the Himalayas to meet the flourishing demand, later bolstered greatly by the rise of social media. Unfortunately, the downside of this commercialisation has been much environmental degradation in the Himalayas. Today, the same Roopkund trek that got Indians onto mountain slopes like never before is now inaccessible due to a government ban on camping in the much-exploited, ecologically fragile bugyals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210216-the-himalayan-peak-off-limits-to-climbers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe rare mountain you can't climb\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210110-an-indian-states-harmonious-approach-to-life\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA little-known 'country' inside India\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210528-how-the-indian-economy-is-built-on-generosity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Indian way to 'maximise value'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA year after my visit, in 2010, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fscience-environment-12059564\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe first ancient-human genome was sequenced\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, quickly revolutionising how we study our past. Soon, the Roopkund mystery was once again resurrected. Thirty-eight powdered bone samples prepared from skeletal remains stored at the Anthropological Survey of India, Kolkata, were sent to 16 labs worldwide for genomic and biomolecular analysis. The results of the five-year-long study, published in 2019, stunned the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImage":"urn:external:nitro:image:p09nlxt8","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoTitle":"The ancient mystery of the 'skeleton lake'","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41467-019-11357-9\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enew study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E found that the 38 skeletons belonged to three genetically distinct groups and were deposited at the lake during multiple events over a 1,000 year period. There was a South Asian group, predictably, whose bones were deposited between the 7th and 10th Centuries in multiple events. The team also found a new group of individuals of eastern Mediterranean ancestry originating in the island of Crete, who died in the 19th Century in a single event. And there was one sample that had South-East Asian origin, also from the 19th Century. Surprised by this anomalous finding, the team then did a dietary analysis to see if it supported the results of DNA analysis, and it did.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"At a site like Roopkund where the context is highly disturbed and the possibilities of full-scale excavations are low, using aDNA [Ancient DNA] provides us with direct information about the genetic ancestry of these individuals,\" said Ayushi Nayak from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.shh.mpg.de\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMax Planck Institute for the Science of Human History\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Our 2019 paper was able to add new kinds of data through different biomolecular methods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Verdant bugyals, or alpine pastures, in the Indian Himalayas","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe new evidence pointing to the presence of groups of non-Indian origin at Roopkund lake was a shock, as there isn't any historical evidence to explain who these people were and what they were doing in the far reaches of the Himalayas. \"Questions remain about the group of individuals that matched closest in ancestry to modern-day eastern Mediterranean people – in terms of their reasons for visiting Roopkund and whether they were European travellers or locals with eastern Mediterranean ancestry. Or about whether there are other sites in the region with such accumulations of human remains,\" said Nayak.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I remember my journey to Roopkund today, my mind reels as I comprehend the complexity of the mystery and the heavy legacy of the trail we trod upon so nonchalantly. Despite their intoxicating beauty on good days, the rugged high Himalayas can be deadly on bad days. Several have lost their lives in pursuit of Roopkund over the past decade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut what were the motivations of all those, including the unexpected eastern Mediterranean group, who met their untimely end at this lake centuries earlier? I also wondered how they all died. Could some of them have fallen from the Junargali ridge, as we joked? Could some of them have been killed by exposure like we feared? Could some of them have died due to acute mountain sickness, which is all too common at this altitude? It is improbable that several distinct groups of people died at Roopkund over several separate incidents spanning more than 1,000 years due to hailstorms. And yet, that's the only evidence we currently have.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"According to me, the mystery is not at all solved. We have more questions than answers","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"There are hardly six to seven skulls [with] trauma related to hail,\" said Mushrif-Tripathy, who was also part of the 2019 investigation and a co-author on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41467-019-11357-9\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe latest paper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"According to me, the mystery is not at all solved. We have more questions than answers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe site remains highly disturbed and unpreserved. Over the years skeletons have been moved around by trekkers and even taken home as souvenirs, posing a challenge to finding an accurate answer in the future, despite potential advances in science. The 2019 study's anomalous insights have understandably caused much flutter, but the more important consideration is that if an analysis of just 38 samples out of hundreds of bodies threw such a curveball, what other surprises are buried in the icy grave?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile we scratch our heads in bewilderment and wonder, the skeletons at the lake continue to confound. At Roopkund, the mystery of the dead lives on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-06T19:49:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The unsolved mystery of Skeleton Lake","headlineShort":"The unsolved mystery of Skeleton Lake","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Skeleton Lake in the Indian Himalayas","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"30.2622","longitude":"30.2622","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Skeleton Lake in the Indian Himalayas","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Nearly 80 years after the Himalayan lake first captured the world's imagination, the mystery continues to confound – even as revolutionary advances are made in understanding our past.","summaryShort":"Nearly 80 years on, the mystery continues to confound","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-07-05T19:56:41.82199Z","entity":"article","guid":"375f7eb3-c918-49ce-8be6-c6c84f0317f0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-23T04:14:47.125815Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135640},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution","_id":"6183c29b45ceed6ec0613fcf","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Scores of these restaurants around the West Bengal capital once offered cheap and comforting meals to homesick migrant workers. Now just a few remain.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Pice hotels offered both familiarity and nourishment to these homesick young men","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's easy to miss the narrow entry to Hotel Sidheshwari Ashram, tucked in the alley behind Kolkata's Sir Stuart Hogg Market (New Market), but it's the fragrant whiff of fish seared in mustard oil that directs customers to the door. It's rush hour and the restaurant, one of Kolkata's few remaining pice hotels, is packed to the gills: waiters in bright orange livery dart in and out of the kitchen; bowlfuls of vegetables, fish and meat preparations accompany mounds of rice laid out on banana leaf plates. An accountant perched between the staircase and the dining room keeps score of every serve. The seats lining the marble-top tables fill up in quick succession as hungry office workers break for lunch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERita Sen, the fourth-generation owner of this pice hotel, rushes to manage the floor. \"We've been running the place for the last 93 years, and our stream of customers has not ceased. Even the former Mayor of Kolkata used to get his lunch from our hotel,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPice hotels derive their name from the Hindi word \"\u003Cem\u003Epaisa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" – the lowest denomination of the Indian rupee. Named for their ability to provide wholesome, home-like meals for cheap, scores of pice hotels littered Kolkata's cityscape in the early 1900s when the city was a bustling metropolis, swarming with migrants who came here to work. These workers were mostly middle-class single men who did not know how to cook and missed the comforts of their family kitchens. Pice hotels offered both familiarity and nourishment to these homesick young men.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPice hotels are unique in their service; meals would be served on banana leaf plates to customers seated on mats on the floor. The recipes were strictly traditional, and often included dishes such as \u003Cem\u003Ealu posto\u003C\u002Fem\u003E with poppy seed paste, \u003Cem\u003Ekumro phool bhaja\u003C\u002Fem\u003E made from pumpkin blossoms, and the mildly spiced prawn \u003Cem\u003Echingri macher malai curry\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in coconut milk. The price and menu would change daily, depending on what was available in the market that morning. To keep the overhead costs low and to avoid waste, everything down to the last lemon sliver (and including the banana leaf) was priced individually.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough tables and chairs have now replaced the floor mats, the service at these pice hotels has not changed. Visitors still get to revel in the customary experience of eating on banana leaf plates, and a regular three-course meal is still cheap at about Rs 200 (a little more than ₤2). Even today, everyone from Indian workers to international tourists can step into these traditional eateries that follow age-old rules and recipes to savour what is arguably the most authentic Bengali cuisine in Kolkata.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"There is a lot of urban romanticism attached to pice hotels now, but for close to a century, their place in Kolkata's gastronomic universe has been to provide balanced meals at a low cost to a lower income population,\" said food historian Tanushree Bhowmik. Coffee houses catering to British residents were the first retail eateries in India. But pice hotels stand out as \"the first commercial indigenous eating places in the city\", Bhowmik added. \"People moved from rural to urban areas as the economy shifted from agrarian to industrial, and these hotels sprung up to meet its needs.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMany pice hotels started as the kitchens of \u003Cem\u003Emessbaris\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, cheap boarding houses for students and office workers. Sandeep Dutta, who inherited Hotel Mahal from his grandfather, Nandalal Dutta, spoke of his pice hotel's beginnings as a part of the famed Presidency Boarding House on North Kolkata's Ramnath Majumdar Street. \"In 1917 my grandfather started this boarding house for students who came to study in the premier institutions nearby,\" he said. \"When the boarding house eventually shut down, I turned the kitchen into a restaurant.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHotel Sidheshwari Ashram, too, started as a messbari for workers who came from nearby towns and rural areas in the early 1900s. \"By 1936, my father decided to open its doors to outsiders as well to increase his business during lunch hours,\" said Sen. \"When we set the menu, we decided to include options for office-goers who were looking for something not too heavy. \u003Cem\u003EKobhiraji jhol\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – our speciality – is a light fish curry with a medley of vegetables. In summer, we serve \u003Cem\u003Eaam shol machch\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a tangy mango and mustard curry fish that is low on spices.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPice hotels are known for the astounding range of dishes that they serve for both lunch and dinner. Hidden in a quaint corner of South Kolkata's Rashbehari junction is the 106-year-old Tarun Niketan Hotel, which serves 15 different fish dishes daily, including \u003Cem\u003Ebhetki paturi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, marinated fish fillets steamed in banana leaves; \u003Cem\u003Echitol kosha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a spicy clown knife fish curry; and the famous Bengali delicacy \u003Cem\u003EiIlish macher jhol,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E hilsa fish cooked in a mellow mustard gravy. Arun Dev, who has been running the establishment for the last 42 years, says the fish-egg fritters are particularly popular.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200120-indias-brilliant-bombay-duck\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndia's brilliant Bombay duck\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190609-the-surprising-truth-about-indian-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe surprising truth about Indian food\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201026-dosa-indias-wholesome-fast-food-obsession\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDosa: India's wholesome fast food obsession\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEating at a pice hotel is different than most Kolkata dining experiences. A list of items and their prices for the day are neatly written on a blackboard at the entrance of each hotel – and the waiters can rattle off the whole list from memory. Tables are usually shared but each seat has a separate bill. Most hotels only accept cash.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Pice menus give you the flexibility to keep adding dishes depending on your own tastes","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBengali meals are an elaborate affair with at least seven dishes. \"Food here is eaten in courses – you are first served rice with \u003Cem\u003Eshukto,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E which is a bitter vegetable curry. Then come the leafy greens. Next in line is a lentil curry to which you can add extras like fritters and a simple vegetable. This is followed by fish and then meat and finally a sweet chutney to cleanse the palette and bring you to your dessert,\" Bhowmik said. According to her, the courses move from lighter to heavier curries, from smaller to bigger fish preparations, and from bitter to sweet tastes. For a visitor, these choices may seem daunting but a little help from the waiters goes a long way toward finding the right combination. \"Pice menus give you the flexibility to keep adding dishes depending on your own tastes, while keeping the cost pocket-friendly,\" Bhowmik noted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDuring the Indian Independence Movement in the 1940s, pice hotels offered more than just cheap sustenance. Gautam Basu, a history enthusiast and regular at the Young Bengal Hotel in Kolkata's Kidderpore area, spoke of how these hotels contributed to the freedom cause by offering cheap or free meals to freedom fighters during this time. A stone's throw away from the busy College Street junction, Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel, originally known as the Hindu Hotel, was both a hideout and a venue for clandestine meetings. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The hotel upfront was a ruse. The inside room had a back exit that led to a secret passageway outside,\" said Vivek Kumar Singh, who now runs his grandfather's establishment. Stalwarts of the movement, including Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose, were regular visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESome owners even named their hotels to show their political leanings. After independence, Singh's grandfather MN Panda added \"Swadhin Bharat\", or \"Free India\", to the hotel's name. And Tarapada Guha named his hotel Young Bengal Hotel after a radical Bengali free-thinkers movement that contributed to social reform.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough steeped in history, most pice hotels have been unable to keep up with rising food prices and the changing demands of the modern city. Many have closed, and with them has gone an important part of Kolkata's food history. Guha once ran three pice hotels in the city – only the Young Bengal Hotel has survived. Pritha Ray Bardhan, Guha's granddaughter, told me of the challenges that come with keeping the place running at a time when food and overheads costs are soaring. \"We have had to increase our prices to make sure that the quality of our food is not compromised, and we can stay afloat,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Sen, who runs Hotel Sidheshwari Ashram with her sister-in-law Debjani, the road has not been easy either. \"The office crowd has thinned down over the years as several government offices have been shifted to the outskirts of the city… We once had twice the number of customers – things are different now,\" she said. While some have tried to move to digital food delivery platforms, especially during the pandemic months, often the commissions charged by such services are not cost-effective.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite the hiccups, most of the remaining pice hotel owners remain resolute. Sen still hopes that both her daughter and her niece will continue this matrilineal inheritance. And Singh at Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel explained, with a mix of determination and sorrow, \"Even if we run at a loss, we wish to carry on the legacy of my grandfather. Some things are invaluable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution-13"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-06-09T19:46:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Pice hotels: A lifeline for Kolkata's hungry workers","headlineShort":"Kolkata's first restaurants for locals","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"22.6763858","longitude":"88.0495359","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Scores of these restaurants around the West Bengal capital once offered cheap and comforting meals to homesick migrant workers. Now just a few remain.","summaryShort":"These a la carte cafes offer a taste of Bengali home cooking","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-08T20:02:49.924109Z","entity":"article","guid":"6816f642-b8e1-447d-a9ff-141c376df26c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:09:09.088691Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135641},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat","_id":"6183c24945ceed51ed4401a3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famrita-sarkar"],"bodyIntro":"Long known as one of the world's holiest cities, India's spiritual capital is now luring culinary pilgrims as it transforms into a vegetarian paradise.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInhabited since at least 1800 BC, Varanasi is well known for being among the oldest living cities on Earth, and one of the holiest for the world's estimated 1.2 billion Hindus. Every day, as the sound of ringing temple bells echo overhead, tens of thousands of devotees descend the city's 88 stone \u003Cem\u003Eghat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E steps and dip themselves into the Ganges river to wash away their sins. Bereaved relatives flock to Varanasi's two cremation grounds where funeral pyres burn around the clock, believing that Shiva himself whispers the \u003Cem\u003ETarak mantra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (chant of liberation) into the ears of all those cremated here, granting them instant \u003Cem\u003Emoksha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or salvation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, my reasons for travelling to Varanasi were quite different. I didn't come to confront death or cleanse my soul; I came to experience the city's unique vegetarian food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I didn't come to confront death or cleanse my soul; I came to experience the city's unique vegetarian food","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDriving through the city's busy streets, Rakesh Giri, chauffeur and raconteur par excellence, told me how Shiva, the destroyer of the universe, had founded Varanasi in the days of yore, according to Hindu belief. Like most Varanasi residents, Giri is a fervent Shaivite (Shiva worshipper). And since followers of Shiva believe he is a vegetarian God, he and most other Varanasi residents follow a strict \u003Cem\u003Esattvic \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(\"pure vegetarian\") diet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My family and I have been pure vegetarians for generations. We refuse to even drink water in a home where eggs are consumed,\" Giri said as he dropped me off.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b16sdm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EVaranasi may be India's spiritual capital, but it isn't exactly known for luring culinary pilgrims. Most food travellers will likely flock to the country's famous epicurean hubs of Delhi, Kolkata or Chennai before making their way to Varanasi. Yet, chefs from around the world are starting to draw inspiration from its culinary heritage, recreating its flavours in their restaurants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChef Vikas Khanna, who received a Michelin star each year from 2011 to 2016 when he ran \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.junoonnyc.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJunoon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Manhattan, said he was bowled over by the \u003Cem\u003Evrat ke kuttu \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ebuckwheat-flour pancakes served in a single Varanasi temple. \"I've tried my best to recreate it in my kitchen at Manhattan. It tastes heavenly,\" Khanna told \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lonelyplanet.com\u002Farticles\u002Fchef-vikas-khanna-on-benarasi-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELonely Planet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2020. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETwo-time Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar named his modern Indian restaurant in London \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.benaresrestaurant.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBenares\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the name of Varanasi during British rule). In his \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FBenares-Michelin-Starred-Atul-Kochhar\u002Fdp\u002F147290026X\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eeponymous cookbook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the chef showcases vegetarian fusion recipes, such as chickpea pancakes and heritage tomato salad, that highlight the sweet-and-tart flavour combinations commonly found in the city. Even Indian celebrity chef Sanjeev Kapoor has \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sanjeevkapoor.com\u002Fcuisines\u002FBanarasi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewritten about his fondness for Varanasi food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, highlighting its excellent vegetarian offerings. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOf course, in a country that is 80% Hindu and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-india-43581122\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E20% vegetarian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, meatless options are ubiquitous in India. But what makes Varanasi's vegetarian cuisine so interesting is how its sattvic and vegetarian specialties are directly influenced by its strong sense of spirituality. A sattvic menu is based on Ayurvedic principles and adheres to the strictest standards of vegetarianism prescribed by the \u003Cem\u003ESanatana dharma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an absolute form of Hinduism. As such, it forbids the use of onion and garlic in cooking, which are believed to increase anger, aggression and anxiety, among other things.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b16sbh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Almost every Hindu household in Varanasi has an altar dedicated to Shiva in the house. Eating meat at home is unthinkable,\" explained Abhishek Shukla, a \u003Cem\u003Eshastri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (priest) at Varanasi's famous \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.shrikashivishwanath.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKashi Vishwanath\u003C\u002Fa\u003E temple. \"Staying sattvic is a priority for those who wish to attain salvation because we believe that our souls would suffer like those we killed for food otherwise. Meat, onions and garlic exacerbate \u003Cem\u003Etamasic\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the opposite of sattvic) tendencies, making it difficult for people to concentrate and exercise good judgement.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETraditionally, many Varanasi restaurants have served meat to cater to Western tourists and non-vegetarian Hindu pilgrims, and local sattvic cuisine was primarily eaten at home. But in 2019, the Hindu-nationalist BJP government \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationalheraldindia.com\u002Fnational\u002Futtar-pradesh-adityanath-govt-bans-liquor-meat-consumption-around-varanasi-temples\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebanned\u003C\u002Fa\u003E the sale and consumption of meat within a 250m radius of all Varanasi temples and heritage sites. This encouraged restaurants to start featuring local vegetarian and sattvic recipes that have been passed down for generations within Varanasi homes but were previously unavailable to visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200120-indias-brilliant-bombay-duck\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndia's brilliant Bombay duck\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200901-an-indian-meal-with-more-than-60-dishes\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn Indian meal with more than 60 dishes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190513-the-worlds-oldest-vegetarian-restaurant\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's oldest vegetarian restaurant \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside the luxury hotel \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.brijhotels.com\u002Fbrijrama-palace-hotel-in-varanasi\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrijRama Palace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an imposing sandstone structure on the Ganges at Munshi Ghat, executive chef Manoj Verma applies his encyclopaedic knowledge of traditional textbook vegetarian Varanasi cooking. \"When I first took over the kitchen, I immediately included dishes like \u003Cem\u003Ekhatta meetha kaddu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sweet and sour pumpkin) and \u003Cem\u003Enimona \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(spiced mashed peas) on our menu,\" Verma said. \"These are humble dishes that our guests would have never had the opportunity to taste otherwise,\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E Verma demonstrated how he prepares nimona, reducing a green pea purée in a pan, adding boiled potatoes and pouring over a mixture of fragrant spices such as whole cumin seeds, asafoetida and green chillies tempered in hot oil. Served with a dollop of ghee over steamed basmati rice, the creamy sweetness of the peas and the contrasting bite from the potatoes is essentially Varanasi's answer to Italy's \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Ffood\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb01169l4\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecucina povera\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, in which local \"peasant\" foods are being elevated by innovative chefs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b16skd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EVerma indicated that the 2019 meat ban has fostered creativity among a new generation of chefs in Varanasi. Although he had fed his share of celebrity Indian and international guests, his greatest honour came when chef Khanna came to taste his food. In what is considered to be the ultimate mark of respect in Indian culture, the Michelin-starred chef bent down and touched Verma's feet. \"It was in the midst of other diners at my restaurant. I will never forget it, \" Verma said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAcross town, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.shreeshivay.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShree Shivay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is one of a growing number of restaurants serving local sattvic recipes. Today, locals estimate are anywhere from 40 to 200 sattvic restaurants in Varanasi, a huge jump since the 2019 meat ban. The restaurant's menu, which changes twice a day based on what is available at the local market that morning, features \u003Cem\u003Ethalis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or set offerings, with at least 12 different dishes. After months of careful experimentation, the restaurant's three chefs came up with a formula where they could mimic the taste of any sauce or gravy using five key ingredients: cashews, poppy seeds, melon seeds, tomatoes and \u003Cem\u003Echironji\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a nutty seed endemic to northern India).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMy thalifeatured items like \u003Cem\u003Ekadhi pakora\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fried chickpea flour dumplings in yoghurt sauce), \u003Cem\u003Erajma \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(red kidney beans in tomato gravy) and \u003Cem\u003Epaneer\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Indian cottage cheese). The flavour of roasted chickpea flour in the kadhi, the viscosity of the rajmasauce and the freshness of the paneer were unlike anything I had experienced across northern India. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond its restaurants, Varanasi's street food scene is as vibrant and electric as that of Bangkok or Istanbul but enjoys none of the media hype. Although many of the sattvic foods sold are unique or inventive variations of snacks found elsewhere in India, they do not benefit from the hype of Delhi's \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200602-pani-puri-indias-favourite-street-food-at-home\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Echaat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (savoury snack combining several textures and flavours) or Mumbai's \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evada pav\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (potato burger).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b16slm"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne such example is the tomato \u003Cem\u003Echaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, sold at the Kashi Chaat Bhandar stall. \"When the daughter of billionaire industrialist Lakshmi Mittal got married in France, they chose us as one of the caterers,\" said third-generation owner Yash Khetri. Made with a tangy and spicy base of mashed tomatoes bathed in a cumin-spiked sugar syrup and topped with crunchy \u003Cem\u003Esev\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (deep-fried chickpea flour noodles), the original recipe was developed in 1968 by Khetri's grandfather. Today, you won't find it anywhere else outside of Varanasi. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother example is the frothy sweetened milk tea served at the Lakshmi Chai Wale stall in terracotta cups with a side of \u003Cem\u003Emalai toast\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. This delectable accompaniment consists of two slices of bread grilled over hot coals, then slathered with fresh cream and sprinkled with granulated sugar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAcross town, the chief attraction at Varanasi's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fbaatichokhadafi\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBaati Chokha\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant is \u003Cem\u003Ebaati\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,a hard, unleavened wheat bread and a typical food in the surrounding state of Uttar Pradesh that's baked on dried cow dung cakes. In fact, as diners enter, they are greeted by the sight of dried cow dung cakes stacked up to the ceiling in an outdoor shed. The restaurant does everything in-house, from pounding their spices in stone mills to grinding the flour for the baati. The vegetables for the accompanying \u003Cem\u003Echokha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E made with eggplant, potatoes and tomatoes, are also roasted on top of the same dung cakes, before simmering in a spice mix in clay pots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocal guide, Manjeet Sahani, who frequently takes visitors to the restaurant, said, \"Initially, I thought that the sight of cow dung cakes might put people off. Honestly, most people I bring here tell me that this is the best food they have ever eaten in India.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b16s4k"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMost Indians know that Varanasi is the capital of\u003Cem\u003E paan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (betel leaf), and I was not going to leave Varanasi without having tried one. Paan is usually enjoyed at the end of a meal as it aids in digestion and functions as a breath freshener. At the Netaji Paan Bhandar stall, the original founder's grandson and the current owner, Pavan Chaurasiya, layered rose petal jam, areca nuts and slaked lime on the fresh betel leaf before folding it with origami-like precision and presenting it to me on a silver tray. On the countertop lay a laminated newspaper clipping showing when India's former prime minister, Indira Gandhi, visited their shop in 1976. I could not have asked for a more fitting end to my vegetarian Varanasi pilgrimage than the lingering sweetness of this long-beloved paan. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMillions of visitors come to Varanasi every year during non-pandemic times, and the Indian government recently announced that it will start issuing visas to international travellers \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-india-58880429\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estarting this November\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. While most may come looking for spiritual salvation, this culinary pilgrim came away enlightened by this vegetarian heaven.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-11-02T19:56:10Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Where it's forbidden to serve meat","headlineShort":"The city where you can't serve meat","image":["p0b16s27"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"25.3176","longitude":"82.9739","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0b16s27"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190617-indias-city-where-people-come-to-die","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210705-the-unsolved-mystery-of-skeleton-lake","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210608-the-indian-cafes-that-fed-a-revolution"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Long known as one of the world's holiest cities, India's spiritual capital is now luring culinary pilgrims as it transforms into a vegetarian paradise.","summaryShort":"A meat ban has fostered creativity among a new generation of chefs","tag":["tag\u002Ffood","tag\u002Freligion"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-11-01T20:12:23.081967Z","entity":"article","guid":"0c609412-8d30-4176-a151-093169294ec7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat","modifiedDateTime":"2021-11-01T20:12:23.081967Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211101-varanasi-where-its-forbidden-to-serve-meat","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Findia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_india_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135640},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050","_id":"6183c28a45ceed6dee067e26","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In 30 years, most of the world’s largest economies will be those that are emerging today, surpassing current behemoths such as the US, Japan and Germany.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E1. China\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 2. India\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 3. US\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 4. Indonesia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 5. Brazil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 6. Russia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 7. Mexico\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 8. Japan\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 9. Germany\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 10. UK\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pwc.com\u002Fworld2050\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESee the full list here\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Top 10 economies in 2050, according to PwC’s The World in 2050 report","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBrexit, coronavirus, and trade tiffs may be making economic headwinds, but despite immediate challenges, the world economy is projected to keep growing at a rapid pace over the next few decades. In fact, by 2050, the global market is projected to double its current size, even as the UN forecasts the world’s population will only grow by a modest 26%.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis growth will bring with it plenty of changes. Though it can be challenging to predict exactly how the future will unfold, most economists agree on one thing: today’s developing markets will be tomorrow’s economic superpowers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pwc.com\u002Fworld2050\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe World in 2050\u003C\u002Fa\u003E report by international professional services firm PwC, in 30 years, six of the seven of the world’s largest economies will be today’s emerging economies, surpassing the US (dropping from 2nd to 3rd), Japan (dropping from 4th to 8th) and Germany (dropping from 5th to 9th). Even relativelysmaller economies like Vietnam, the Philippines and Nigeria will see huge leaps in their respective rankings over the next three decades, according to the report.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190818-whats-it-like-to-live-in-an-over-touristed-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhat's it like to live in an overtouristed city?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190630-five-countries-on-the-frontline-of-tech\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFive countries on the frontline of tech\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190414-living-in-a-country-that-thinks-green\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELiving in a country that thinks green\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe spoke to residents living in five countries with hyper-growth potential to find out how they’re navigating the rapid changes already occurring, what benefits come with living in these places and the challenges they face as their countries climb the rankings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EChina\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs measured by GDP by purchasing power parity (PPP), which adjusts for price level differences across countries, China already has the largest economy in the world. The Asian behemoth has seen massive economic gains over the past decade, but economists promise that it is just the tip of the iceberg for what the future holds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe big economic changes are happening right in front of residents’ eyes. “My home for the last few years, the Industrial Park of Suzhou, is a glittering urban paradise of shopping malls, parks, restaurants and traffic. But when I first came to China [15 years ago], the whole area was swamp and farmland,” said Rowan Kohll, author of the \u003Cspan\u003E1-Minute Chinese\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E books.“This is a very common story in China. The whole country is changing.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe changes are attracting a brand-new set of entrepreneurs and others looking for financial opportunity amid the seemingly unstoppable growth. China’s largest city, Shanghai, is where many newcomers make their start.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E“\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EShanghai is an entrepreneurial and very commercially minded city,” said American John Pabon, founder of Shanghai-based \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fulcrum22.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFulcrum Strategic Advisors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “From the early-morning traders at the wet markets to honking motorbikes at traffic lights to late nights in the office, everyone is here to get ahead.” But unlike New York City, where Pabon lived previously and found people usually held their cards close to their chest, residents here are “always willing to listen and provide sound advice.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn order to work and live here, however, expats must learn Mandarin. “It’s no longer a nice-to-have in China,” Pabon said. “Without Mandarin, you’re going to find your options pretty limited for work and in social and cultural circles, and you may not even be allowed in at all.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIndia\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe world’s second-most-populous country is expected to see massive growth over the next three decades, averaging 5% growth in GDP per year, according to the report – making it one of the fastest-growing economies in the world. By 2050, India is projected to be the world’s second-largest economy (overtaking the United States) and will account for 15% of the world’s total GDP. The positive outcomes of that growth have already started to make an impact for residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“From the end of 20th Century and start of 21st, I have literally seen India changing in front of my eyes,” said native Saurabh Jindal, who runs the app \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftalktravelapp.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETalk Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “The economy growing has led to manifold changes in people’s lifestyles, from the vibes in the city to the attitudes in society and eventually the overall walk and talk of the country and its inhabitants.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor instance, there has been a “major upgrade” in the quality of televisions, mobile phones and car brands over the past 15 years, he said, while air travel has become increasingly accessible, and houses have become “more posh and rich”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe improvements haven’t come without challenges, though. Infrastructure spending has lagged, even as more cars take to the streets; and a lack of regulation enforcement has led to increased pollution levels, especially in urban centres like New Delhi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe growth also hasn’t always reached every citizen equality. “There are some sections of the society [that] are still living a very low quality of life,” said Jindal. “You can see slums next to high-rise buildings.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I have literally seen India changing in front of my eyes","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe attitudes toward women here also frustrate residents, as the country continues to grapple with an ongoing \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-india-43782471\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erape and sexual harassment crisis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “A country’s growth is measured by how much it respects the rights of its citizens, so we still have a long way to go,” said Namita Kulkarni, who lives in Mysore and blogs at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fradicallyeverafter.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERadically Ever After\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “Until women are safe in public spaces, no amount of ‘economic growth’ means a whit.”\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKulkarni recommends expats do their research before moving here, especially because the various parts of the county can be so different from each other. “Each state has its own unique languages, culture, cuisine and traditions,” she said. “The north-eastern states are my personal favourite.”\u003Cstrong\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EResidents also advise not trying to replicate the creature comforts of home, but rather tune into how the country works. “Adapt to India,” said Jindal. “India will not adapt to you.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBrazil\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis South American powerhouse is set to be the world’s fifth-largest economy by 2050, overtaking Japan, Germany and Russia in the process. With an abundance of natural resources, Brazil has grown its economy rapidly in the past few decades, but faces challenges as it struggles to control government corruption and inflation that has plagued the country in recent years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I witnessed all the euphoria regarding the economy in the late 2000s and early 2010s. A new middle class emerged in Brazil, and the country as a whole was feeling proud of this new, hard-earned reputation,” said Caio Bersot, who was born in Brazil. “But at the same time, large cities like Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo grew more unaffordable. It got to a point that it felt like Brazil was growing faster than it should. There weren’t enough trade corridors, rail lines, roads and ports to keep up with all that growth.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome of the challenges have enabled Brazil to be an early adopter of technology. “In many developing countries, high growth translates to high inflation. As a result of the high cost of protecting cash against inflation, Brazil became a fintech pioneer,” said intercultural strategist Annalisa Nash Fernandez, who previously lived in Sao Paulo. “Paypal and Venmo equivalents have been the daily routine in Brazil for 20-plus years, even before smartphones, via an ATM.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Brazil is one of the world’s giants of mining, agriculture and manufacturing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA 2016 recession hit the country hard, but the economy is showing some signs of re-growth, and with a new presidential administration inaugurated last year, 2020 is posed to be a “make-or-break” year for Brazil, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Farticle\u002Fus-brazil-economy-2020-analysis\u002Fbrazil-economic-stars-align-turning-2020-into-make-or-break-year-idUSKBN1YG1T7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to Reuters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “The country still faces economic challenges but is definitely working towards a bright future,” said native Silvana Frappier. “Brazil is one of the world’s giants of mining, agriculture and manufacturing, and it has a strong and rapidly growing service sector. I’m also seeing an increase in tourism investment.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of the state of the economy, newcomers are typically welcomed here, especially if they learn the language. “Brazil is a very friendly country that loves to welcome foreigners. Brazilians are less individualists and more social people. They love when a foreigner shows interest in their culture and language,” said Frappier. “Learning Portuguese will make you feel right at home.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMexico\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy 2050, Mexico is poised to become the world’s seventh-largest economy, jumping up four spots from its current 11th place in the rankings. A focus on manufacturing and exports have driven much of its growth in recent years, though current economic conditions have hampered potential gains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“For the past 10 years, Mexico’s economy has grown, but not as much as I thought it would and definitely not as much as it could,” said travel blogger Federico Arrizabalaga, who lives in Puerto Vallarta. “The price of gasoline has doubled in the last eight years [and] the Mexican peso’s value has dropped around 50% versus the US dollar in the past 10 years. But if you find opportunities and work hard, you can do very well, and your money still goes a long way compared to more expensive countries.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you find opportunities and work hard, you can do very well","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHealthcare and transportation are notably more affordable here than they are in the US, Canada and Europe. “I was just in Mexico City and the cost of an Uber to go anywhere in the city was about US$4 to $10 [approx. £3 to £8],” said American Suzan Haskins, senior editor at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Finternationalliving.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInternational Living\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who currently lives in Merida, Yucatan. As with many developing economies, infrastructure and road conditions can be challenging, but the government just unveiled a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Farticle\u002Fus-mexico-infrastructure\u002Fmexico-to-spend-44-billion-on-infrastructure-in-first-phase-of-plan-idUSKBN1Y01UQ\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E$44bn infrastructure investment\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to Reuters, to be spent over the next four years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEach region of Mexico is very distinct in terms of climate and culture, so residents advise new expats to do their research and visit different cities before relocating. That said, the local hospitality makes fitting in a lot easier, especially when it comes to learning Spanish, a definite must.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“People here will go out of their way to help you over communication hurdles,” said Haskins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENigeria\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of Africa’s largest economies, Nigeria is poised to grow by leaps and bounds by 2050, at an average of 4.2% year-on-year, rising eight places from 22nd to 14thin the rankings. While the government has struggled with corruption, residents have an entrepreneurial attitude that keeps pushing the country forward. According to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fprofile\u002FOndrej_Dvoulety\u002Fpublication\u002F329512319_Entrepreneurial_Activity_and_Its_Determinants_Findings_from_African_Developing_Countries\u002Flinks\u002F5c0bcbc4299bf139c74826f2\u002FEntrepreneurial-Activity-and-Its-Determinants-Findings-from-African-Developing-Countries.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGlobal Entrepreneurship Monitor data\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, more than 30% of Nigerian residents are new entrepreneurs or the owner-manager of a new business, among the highest rate in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“There is a ‘hustle and bustle’ culture in the air,” said Nigerian native Colette Otusheso, CEO of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Facceleratetv.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAccelerate TV\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who lives in Lagos. “Nigerians are hard workers and it almost comes naturally for us to be working on several things at once, which means there is always something going on.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven the country’s challenges, like minimal public transportation, have segued into business opportunities. “We now have an app very similar to Uber for \u003Cem\u003Eokadas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (motorbike transport), which is the most used form of transport in Nigeria but in the past has not been very reliable,” said Otusheso. “Now we can track okada drivers and locations just as you do for transport and deliveries with Uber.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There is a ‘hustle and bustle’ culture in the air","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EResidents mostly feel positive about the county’s future but are wary of government corruption and foreign investment. “We need to be careful what country we take money from, who we allow to help us improve our infrastructure and what strings are attached to it,” said Nigerian native Chizoba Anyaoha, Founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.travsolo.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETravSolo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, noting their history of other nations taking advantage of their natural resources and raw materials.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENewcomers should settle in Lagos or Abuja, both big cities with good schools and great nightlife and food. Just like any big city, street smarts are key. “The best way to acclimate here is to know someone currently living here you trust,” said Anyaoha. “It is quite easy to identify expats, making them easy targets. Keep a low profile, take precautions, always be aware of your surroundings and the people in it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fliving-in\"\u003ELiving In\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel that discovers what it’s like to reside in some of the world’s top destinations.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050-19"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-03-23T20:27:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Five superpowers ruling the world in 2050","headlineShort":"The world’s next superpowers","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In 30 years, most of the world’s largest economies will be those that are emerging today, surpassing current behemoths such as the US, Japan and Germany.","summaryShort":"These five countries will shape the future of the planet","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-03-22T20:30:50.104722Z","entity":"article","guid":"95b2ff41-6901-484d-b216-b9a83a74444e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:39:14.807698Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135641},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus","_id":"6183c23445ceed4e67021d03","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Experts have already begun assessing how a recovery might look once the Covid-19 virus is contained, and which countries stand to bounce back best.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E1. Norway\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 2. Denmark\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 3. Switzerland\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 4. Germany\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 5. Finland\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 6. Sweden\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 7. Luxembourg\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 8. Austria\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 9. US Central\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 10. United Kingdom\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fmglobal.com\u002Fresearch-and-resources\u002Ftools-and-resources\u002Fresilienceindex\u002Fexplore-the-data\u002F?&vd=1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESee the full list here\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Top 10 most resilient countries, according to the 2019 Global Resilience Index","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Covid-19 pandemic has injected an unprecedented amount of uncertainty into the global economy, as countries across the world battle growing infections, implement wide-ranging social-distancing strategies and attempt early fiscal interventions to stabilise markets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile managing the immediate health crisis is vital and necessary for economic stability, experts have already begun assessing how a recovery might look once the virus is contained and which countries stand to bounce back best.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo better understand this, we turned to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fmglobal.com\u002Fresearch-and-resources\u002Ftools-and-resources\u002Fresilienceindex\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2019 Global Resilience Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by insurance company FM Global, which ranks the resiliency of the business environment across 130 countries, based on factors like political stability, corporate governance, risk environment and supply chain logistics and transparency. Pairing these rankings with their country’s initial response to the virus, we identified the nations across the globe that have a high likelihood of maintaining stability and resilience through the crisis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe talked to residents and experts in these places to understand how they’re coping now and what they might look forward to in the hopefully near-term future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EDenmark \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERanked second in the index, Denmark scores high marks for its supply chain tracking and low governmental corruption. The country also moved quickly when it came to enacting social-distancing measures in light of the spread of the virus. It announced a shutdown of schools and non-essential private businesses on 11 March and closed its borders to foreigners on 14 March, when the country only had a handful of positive cases. But the moves have already proven effective.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Regular flu has dropped by 70% versus last year, which must be a good indicator of the effectiveness of the steps taken by the government,” said Rasmus Aarup Christiansen, managing partner of Pissup Tours, based in Copenhagen. “I was sceptical at first but seeing how almost all other countries have taken similar steps [like lockdowns and border closings] soon after Denmark, it seems the government was doing the right thing.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Most people feel a moral duty to make sacrifices for the sake of public health","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDanish culture, which tends to be trusting of authority and willing to stand together for a common cause, has also had an impact on the effectiveness of the measures. “The word ‘\u003Cem\u003Esamfundssind\u003C\u002Fem\u003E’ (which roughly translates to “civic sense” or “civic duty”) is the new buzzword in Denmark on both social and traditional media, and most people feel a moral duty to make sacrifices for the sake of public health,” said Aarup Christiansen. “No-one wants to be called out for being responsible for endangering the lives of senior citizens just because they won’t give up their usual luxuries.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat doesn’t mean there haven’t been challenges, however. Aarup Christiansen has personally seen his travel business revenues plummet. While he appreciates the governmental financial aid packages, announced on 14 March (which include covering some of the costs of worker salaries), the rules and outputs have yet to be fully defined and put in place, leading to more uncertainty and layoffs. Still, the measures, like paying 90% of wages of hourly workers and 75% of those of salaried workers affected by the crisis, are being hailed as a model for the rest of the world, by essentially “freezing” the economy until the storm subsides. The model won’t come cheap however; the measures are expected to cost 13% of total GDP.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200105-the-most-inviting-city-in-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe most inviting city in Africa?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190414-living-in-a-country-that-thinks-green\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFive countries saving the planet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's next superpowers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere’s also the sense here that this is a global crisis, and Denmark’s resilience will no doubt rely on how the rest of the world adapts and maintains open trade. “Denmark may be able to gain a relative advantage by having dodged some of the more serious consequences,” said Aarup Christiansen. In fact, the country is already talking about \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomberg.com\u002Fnews\u002Farticles\u002F2020-03-30\u002Fdenmark-raises-wage-compensation-scheme-ceiling-amid-high-demand\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eloosening some of the restrictions by Easter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E based on the containment so far, according to a Bloomberg report. “Denmark’s well-developed pharmaceutical sector may prove an advantage,” said Aarup Christiansen. “I would, however, find no pride in Denmark being better off if it comes from other countries having to suffer.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESingapore\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESingapore scores high in the index for its strong economy, low political risk, strong infrastructure and low corruption in the survey, pushing it to number 21 in the overall resilience ranking. The country also \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-51866102\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emoved fast to contain the virus\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and has had one of the flattest curves in the pandemic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Surviving this will make everyone more resilient","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“We have tremendous trust in our government, who are relatively transparent about every step they are taking to fight this crisis,” said resident Constance Tan, who works for data analysis platform Konigle. “As a general rule, if the government enforces something, we comply.” That said, there are still rule-flouters, and the country has \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.channelnewsasia.com\u002Fnews\u002Fsingapore\u002Fcovid19-coronavirus-89-work-passes-revoked-mom-12563632\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etaken away passports and work passes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for those in violation, according to a 21 March report by Channel News Asia. “But as a whole, we work together, and we do not need to worry about social unrest, people dying on the streets or economic destabilisation,” said Tan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a small country, Singapore depends on the recovery of the rest of the world to have the most successful rebound, but residents generally believe in the strength of the future here. “As a people, like everywhere else, I think surviving this will make everyone more resilient,” said native Justin Fong. “One thing for sure, this has forced the adoption of technology which will bode well for Singaporeans.” Many businesses like Konigle implemented work-from-home policies quickly, and the government released the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tracetogether.gov.sg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrace Together app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to help track the virus, which many residents have downloaded.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EUnited States \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo capture the United States’ broad geographic footprint, the index splits up the country into West, Central and East regions, but as a whole, the US ranks well (9th, 11th and 22nd, respectively) for its low-risk business environment and strong supply chain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EContaining the virus has proven challenging in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-us-canada-52094331\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emajor metropolitan areas like New York\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and unemployment has already \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-52137727\"\u003Ejumped to historic levels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in large part due to the mandatory shutdowns of more than half of US states, which has particularly hit restaurant and retail workers and other businesses that rely on foot traffic. But the US government has moved quickly to pass \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-us-canada-52070718\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estimulus measures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to stabilise the economy, and social distancing strategies enacted elsewhere in the country, which seem to be having an effect, should lessen the overall impact of the virus, allowing for a quicker economic recovery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFinancial institutions like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cnbc.com\u002F2020\u002F03\u002F31\u002Fcoronavirus-update-goldman-sees-15percent-jobless-rate-followed-by-record-rebound.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGoldman Sachs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.morganstanley.com\u002Fideas\u002Fcoronavirus-impact-on-global-growth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMorgan Stanley are predicting\u003C\u002Fa\u003E a “V-shaped” recession and recovery, with an unprecedented negative immediate impacts (as is already being seen) but a relatively quick recovery in the later quarters of the year; while consultants like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mckinsey.com\u002Fbusiness-functions\u002Fstrategy-and-corporate-finance\u002Four-insights\u002Fsafeguarding-our-lives-and-our-livelihoods-the-imperative-of-our-time\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMcKinsey\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are taking a more measured, but still optimistic view, on recovery based on the successful implementation of public health measures – like the lockdowns in place – and policy interventions like the already-announced $2t stimulus package, likely the first of many. The US is also critical to the world economy, representing a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.investopedia.com\u002Finsights\u002Fworlds-top-economies\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enearly a quarter of global GDP\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and the recovery of the global economy is highly dependent on how the US fares.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We want money, goods, services, labour and ideas to flow as freely as possible","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Generally speaking, the US economy is better-positioned to recover from large shocks and potential longer-run shifts than much of the rest of the world. The population is on average younger than much of the rest of the world with more mobility, and labour market restrictions are generally lighter, thereby facilitating greater labour reallocation” said Eric Sims, professor of economics at the University of Notre Dame. “More immediately, the Federal Reserve in the US and the Bank of England in the UK (neither of which have yet gone to negative policy rates) have a bit more space to provide monetary accommodation than other central banks around the world, such as the ECB or the Bank of Japan.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo further enhance the US’ recovery, the presidential administration \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002F52053676\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehas proposed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dividing the nation into areas that are less hard hit and allowing normal economic activity to recur. “I think those measures would go long way towards ultimately setting up the conditions for strong recovery,” said Peter C Earle, research fellow at the American Institute for Economic Research, a not-for-profit academic think tank. “We want money, goods, services, labour and ideas to flow as freely as possible, not just domestically but internationally as well.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe US’ lack of universal healthcare has been one criticism of the county’s ability to handle the crisis, and one that needs to be addressed for future resiliency. “I think eventually the world can emerge stronger after the virus is contained and I believe the US can, too. But it all depends on the lessons we learn,” said Michael Merrill, an economist and labour historian in the Rutgers School of Management and Labor Relations. “We are going to have to invest in new forms of public health and create sustainable forms of social protection and institutional resiliency if we are to return to the commercially dense, interconnected, highly networked societies that were the norm only one month ago.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERwanda\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe felt confident that the Rwandan government would handle the situation way better than in our home countries\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDue to recent improvements in corporate governance, Rwanda has made some of the largest leaps in the index in recent years, jumping 35 spots to its current rank of 77th most resilient in the world (and fourth highest in Africa). Most importantly, it looks particularly well positioned to bounce back from this type of crisis as the country successfully contained Ebola from its borders after an outbreak from neighbouring Democratic Republic of the Congo in 2019. With its mix of universal health care, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Ftechnology-43886039\u002Fdrones-deliver-blood-and-medical-supplies-in-rwanda\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emedical supply-delivering drones\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and thermometer checks at its borders, Rwanda stands to be well-equipped to maintain stability throughout the crisis, especially when compared to other countries in the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“A lot of foreign students like me stayed behind because we felt confident that the Rwandan government would handle the situation way better than in our home countries,” said Garnett Achieng, digital content curator for Baobab Consulting and student at the African Leadership University, who lives in \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200105-the-most-inviting-city-in-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKigali\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and is originally from Kenya. “Amongst foreign African students, the only anxiety comes with knowing that our families back home are not in the same situation we are in.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERwanda was the first country in sub-Saharan Africa to impose a total lockdown, and is already \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.africanexponent.com\u002Fpost\u002F7335-rwanda-distributes-free-food-social-services-in-response-to-covid-19\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edistributing free food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E door-to-door to the country’s most vulnerable. While tourism is expected to be hit hard, as Rwanda is a popular destination for many international conferences and exhibitions, Achieng is hopeful that the country will have relatively few casualties to the virus, making it well-positioned to recover quickly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENew Zealand\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERanked 12th-most resilient in the index, New Zealand scores especially high in corporate governance and its supply chain. The country has also been able to move quickly to contain the spread of the virus by shutting borders to international travellers on 19 March and enacting a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-52001578\u002Fcoronavirus-new-zealand-announces-lockdown\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enon-essential-business lockdown\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on 25 March.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s our time to sit down as a New Zealand family and decide who we want to be","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E“\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAs an island nation, it is easier to control our borders, the main source of infections. So the effective border closure makes sense,” said Auckland resident Shamubeel Eaqub, economist at consultancy Sense Partners. “Compared to other countries, the response in New Zealand has been bold and decisive.” The measures are paying off, as some epidemiologists see it as having potential to be one of few \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fworld\u002F2020\u002Fmar\u002F31\u002Ftougher-new-zealand-rules-on-covid-19-could-set-it-apart-as-normal-nation-after-lockdown\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E“normal” nations left\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to a Guardian report, eliminating all cases if measures remain strong for the coming weeks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith tourism and exports a major part of the economy, New Zealand will face some struggles to its economy in the near term, but this doesn’t necessarily have to be a bad thing. “By being insulated, we will have time to recalibrate,” said Dunedin resident Ron Bull, director of curriculum development at Otago Polytechnic. “We had already started talking about the impact of campers and backpackers on the environment, and this gives us time to weigh up what’s important against the waves of tourist dollars coming in.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOverall, the country is well-placed for a stable recovery, with low levels of government debt and the ability to enact quantitative easing to keep interest rates low. “We have fewer constraints to both blunt the impact of dealing with [the] pandemic and supercharge the recovery,” said Eaqub. “Most importantly, New Zealand remains a relatively high-trust country. This will be a strong foundation for recovery from the biggest health and economic shock in generations.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBull agrees the country has a likelihood to come out stronger. “Just like a family living in the same house, you have to get to know each other,” he said. “It’s our time to sit down as a New Zealand family and decide who we want to be and make some decisions to make us stronger and better.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fliving-in\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELiving In\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel that discovers what it’s like to reside in some of the world’s top destinations.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-04-06T22:43:01Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Five countries with the most resilient economies","headlineShort":"Which countries will recover first?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Experts have already begun assessing how a recovery might look once the Covid-19 virus is contained, and which countries stand to bounce back best.","summaryShort":"Five nations likely to maintain stability through the Covid-19 crisis","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-04-05T21:48:28.048536Z","entity":"article","guid":"3ceea73d-da22-4434-b0c3-f380b811c1cf","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:40:57.211081Z","project":"travel","slug":"20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135641},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark","_id":"6183c25245ceed4ae813741f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Samfundssind – which is loosely translated as “community spirit” or “social mindedness” – has become the buzzword of the coronavirus crisis.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETowards the end of each year, Dansk Sprognævn (the Danish Language Council) and P1 radio station select Denmark’s word of the year. Inevitably capturing the (sometimes unflattering) mood of the times, previous winners have included \u003Cem\u003Eklimatosse\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (“climate idiot”) in 2019 and \u003Cem\u003Ehvidvask\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (“money laundering”) in 2018.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAn early contender for 2020’s title is surely \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdsn.dk\u002F?retskriv=samfundssind&ae=0\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esamfundssind\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which the Danish Language Council defines as “putting the concern of society higher than one’s own interests”. More loosely translated as “community spirit” or “social mindedness”, samfundssind has become the buzzword of the coronavirus crisis: by searching a database of Danish news, the language council found that usage of “samfundssind” increased from just 23 times in February to 2,855 in March.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“There is a strong tradition of community spirit in Denmark,” said Eva Skafte Jensen, senior researcher at the Danish Language Council. “In the 19th Century, this was seen in the way people in the countryside established \u003Cem\u003Eandelsbevægelsen\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (co-operatives) focused on common goals. Dairy farmers would team up to finance jointly owned dairies [and] farmers and other country people would form consumer co-ops, thus circumventing the monopoly of private merchants of groceries… This idea was also brought into the workers’ movements where it helped to build strong unions.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Samfundssind has become the buzzword of the coronavirus crisis","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlso associated is the 19th-Century establishment of \u003Cem\u003Ehøjskole\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (folk schools), which aimed to give rural people a non-formal education in good citizenship – and still exist today. It was this association with folk schools, co-operatives and the worker’s movement, “when people pulling together achieved more than the individual,” Jensen believes, that helped samfundssind become a 2020 buzzword – as did its pointed use by the current prime minister.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEarly in the crisis, Prime Minister Mette Frederiksen appealed directly to Danes’ samfundssind. “We have to stand together by keeping our distance,” she said \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.regeringen.dk\u002Fnyheder\u002F2020\u002Fstatsminister-mette-frederiksens-indledning-paa-pressemoede-i-statsministeriet-om-corona-virus-den-11-marts-2020\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eat a press conference\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on 11 March as the country locked down, one of the first in Europe to do so. “We need community spirit. We need help. I would like to thank… all who have so far shown that this is exactly what we have in Denmark – samfundssind.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDanes responded enthusiastically. Private companies helped ease pressure on healthcare services by procuring medical equipment through the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flaegemiddelstyrelsen.dk\u002Fda\u002Fudstyr\u002Fdanmark-hjaelper-danmark\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDenmark Helping Denmark\u003C\u002Fa\u003E campaign – the response to which showed “incredible goodwill and community spirit,” according to the Danish Medicines Agency's Director General Thomas Senderovitz.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESeveral of Denmark most-loved attractions also stepped up: the Lego factory began manufacturing visors for healthcare workers; amusement park \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitcopenhagen.com\u002Fcopenhagen\u002Fplanning\u002Ftivoli-gardens-gdk424504\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETivoli Gardens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E turned into a temporary kindergarten, with social distancing guidelines in place; and double Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Falchemist.dk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlchemist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E pivoted from serving exclusive 50-course tasting menus to cooking pasta for 12 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.un.org\u002Fen\u002Fun-coronavirus-communications-team\u002Fdanish-michelin-star-chef-cooks-make-difference\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehomeless shelters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E around Copenhagen. As well as appearing often in the news, the word has proliferated as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Fsearch?q=%23samfundssind&src=typed_query\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esocial media hashtag\u003C\u002Fa\u003E highlighting acts of solidarity and kindness. But perhaps most importantly, everyday people showed community spirit by following the rules.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhich countries will recover first?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200615-why-finnish-people-tell-the-truth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Finnish people tell the truth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190217-what-to-do-when-hygge-no-longer-works\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secret to Danish happiness?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn her speech, Frederiksen emphasised the need to follow government guidelines, and to start as soon as possible. Danes largely complied without a fuss. Observing that daycares and schools were emptied the morning after the announcement, four days before the measures went into effect, associate professor David Olagnier and professor Trine H Mogensen from the Department of Biomedicine at Aarhus University, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\u002Fpmc\u002Farticles\u002FPMC7217796\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewrote\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that this illustrates that “the Danes have a strong sense of social responsibility for their community.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOlagnier and Mogensen also observed that, “Denmark is a country where trust regulates everything.” So, does the key to samfundssind lie with the simple fact that Danes trust their government, and one another, to do the right thing?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESocial trust promotes cooperation, wrote Kim Mannemar Sønderskov, professor of Political Science at Aarhus University, and Peter Thisted Dinesen, professor of Political Science at the University of Copenhagen, in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F264574693_Danish_Exceptionalism_Explaining_the_Unique_Increase_in_Social_Trust_Over_the_Past_30_Years\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea 2014 paper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The authors found that the level of social trust in Denmark is among the highest in the world and, moreover, that it dramatically increased over the 30-year period between 1979 and 2009. “In 1979, 47% of Danes expressed that ‘most people can be trusted’, whereas this share had increased to 79% in 2009.” The authors attribute this partly to “improved quality of state institutions, and a concomitant increase in citizens’ trust in these institutions”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe anti-corruption NGO \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.transparency.org\u002Fen\u002Fcpi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETransparency International\u003C\u002Fa\u003E publishes an annual ranking of the world’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.transparency.org\u002Fen\u002Fnews\u002Fcpi-2019-global-highlights\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eleast-corrupt countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. This year, Denmark topped the table, tied with New Zealand. With a responsible government, politicians in Denmark enjoy a relatively high level of trust. When politicians “behave in an incorrupt manner,” write Sønderskov and Dinesen, “they send the signal that… most people can be trusted.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMany visitors to Denmark remark upon witnessing a level of trust in the country that is rarely seen elsewhere. Driving around rural areas in the summer, for example, you’ll likely spot unattended roadside stalls selling farm produce with only an honesty box to collect payment. It’s not uncommon, either, to see prams with sleeping babies inside parked outside restaurants or cafes: a widely reported story from 1997, when a Danish woman was arrested during a visit to New York City \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F1997\u002F05\u002F14\u002Fnyregion\u002Ftoddler-left-outside-restaurant-is-returned-to-her-mother.html?\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efor leaving her baby\u003C\u002Fa\u003E outside a restaurant, illustrates this culture clash. The ease with which parents can leave children unattended in Denmark is a product of a society that is less anxious about its fellow citizens. In 2016, the Ministry of Culture held a public vote to decide \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.danmarkskanon.dk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe country’s official values\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: trust was determined to be one of the most important. “The Danish culture of trust is based on an expectation that one’s fellow citizens and public institutions are reliable,” stated the Ministry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt’s an observation that Matt Orlando, the American-born chef and owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Famassrestaurant.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmass\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another of Copenhagen’s top restaurants, has shared. “The amount of control and trust in government has been amazing,” he said, reflecting on his experience of the pandemic in Denmark. “In the sense that society has kept itself under control, because of the trust of the government: in the trust of the decisions being made [and] the transparency of everything.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The word has proliferated as a social media hashtag highlighting acts of solidarity and kindness","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOrlando is one of those who are absorbing the spirit of samfundssind into their post-pandemic lives. Alongside others in the restaurant industry, he formed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bowline.dk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBowline\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a collaborative platform aimed at strengthening and supporting the restaurant community through the crisis and beyond. His fine dining restaurant has also become more community minded by dedicating half its dining space to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Famassrestaurant.com\u002Fafc\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmass Fried Chicken & Wine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which serves more approachable food at a lower price.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPeople who relocate to Denmark from elsewhere quickly become familiar with one of the clearest examples of social trust in Denmark: its infamous tax rates. Danish residents accept some of the world’s highest taxes in the confidence that, by everyone paying their fair share, tax money will be put to good use for the common social good – universal healthcare, free university tuition and generous maternal and paternal leave, to name just a few examples. A culture where everyone is well looked after fosters trust and a sense of all being in it together. A sense of equality is also important. Denmark, according to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdata.oecd.org\u002Finequality\u002Fincome-inequality.htm#indicator-chart\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOrganisation for Economic Co-operation and Development\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (OECD), has one of the lowest levels of income inequality in the world. Sønderskov and Dinesen write that “citizens in more economically equal societies also tend to have higher levels of trust. This is explained by a stronger sense of community among citizens.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHeavily \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-38254474\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esubsidised\u003C\u002Fa\u003E through taxes, Danish daycare centres foster social mindedness early in life. “Almost everyone goes to public daycare in Denmark,” said \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.howtoliveindenmark.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKay Xander Mellish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, author of the books How to Live in Denmark and How to Work in Denmark. “Even Prince Christian, the future King Christian XI, attended public daycare.” Every child born in Denmark is guaranteed a place in daycare from six months to six years of age where the emphasis is on playing and socialising – formal education doesn’t begin until age eight or nine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A culture where everyone is well looked after fosters trust and a sense of all being in it together","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“In the first few years,” said Mellish, “children learn the basic rules for functioning as a society. They learn how to sit at a table at lunch time, wait until it is their turn to be served, and feed themselves. In the playground, they spend most of their time in “free play”, in which they make up rules for their own games.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStaff generally don’t lead play, she explained, which “allows the children to form their own groups and learn how to work together on their own.” Often, Mellish added, schools start the day by singing a song together from the popular \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstorbritannien.um.dk\u002Fen\u002Fabout%20great%20britain\u002Fdanish-traditions\u002Fthe-folk-high-school-songbook\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHøjskolesangbogen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, (the Folk High School Songbook), a cultural tradition that extends to universities, offices and, on Wednesday mornings, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Finternational.kk.dk\u002Fartikel\u002Fcopenhagen-main-library#:~:text=Communal%20singing%20is%20deeply%20rooted,needed,%20and%20anyone%20can%20attend.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECopenhagen Main Library\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Singing together is a big part of life for Danes of all ages, as anyone who’s visited at midsummer or Christmas time knows well. \u003Cem\u003EMorgensang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, communal morning singing, is beloved for the feeling of togetherness and solidarity it fosters, especially during challenging times, which explains why, during lockdown, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dr.dk\u002Fom-dr\u002Fabout-dr\u002Fbroadcast-community-sing-along-gathers-danes-through-corona-isolation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea fifth of the country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E tuned in to join the conductor Philip Faber in a daily televised communal sing-along.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“The idea that they are part of a community is impressed on Danes at a very young age,” Mellish said. “You can often win an argument in Denmark by suggesting that your opponent is \u003Cem\u003Eusolidarisk\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or “showing a lack of solidarity”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDenmark was the first in Europe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thelocal.com\u002F20200528\u002Fhow-denmark-got-its-children-back-to-school\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eto reopen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E schools and daycare centres in mid-April. The number of Covid-19 deaths in Denmark stands at under 700 at time of writing and, despite an early-autumn surge, infection rates remain relatively low. The country’s long tradition of putting society over self-interest – of considering the community stronger than the individual – seems to have been its strength.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-10-19T22:25:37Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The single word that connects Denmark","headlineShort":"The single word that connects Denmark","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Samfundssind – which is loosely translated as “community spirit” or “social mindedness” – has become the buzzword of the coronavirus crisis.","summaryShort":"The Nordic country has a long tradition of putting society over self-interest","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-10-18T21:40:26.386453Z","entity":"article","guid":"2268a994-c3b1-45e6-b0ee-9253763e822d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:55:46.299987Z","project":"travel","slug":"20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135642},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic","_id":"6183c25545ceed5c954391d3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway"],"bodyIntro":"Cities across the world have had to rethink security in the face of the Covid-19 pandemic – here are the ones doing it well.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENothing in modern memory has changed city life quite like Covid has. From the closure of city-centre offices to mask mandates to restaurant restrictions, pandemic precautions have transformed the landscape of cities across the world, likely for the long term. In fact, the pandemic is the first of its scale to happen to us as an \"urbanised\" species. When the Spanish Flu hit in the early 1900s, only 14% of humans lived in cities, but today that figure has risen to 57%, according to estimates by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpopulation.un.org\u002Fwup\u002FArchive\u002FFiles\u002Fstudies\u002FUnited%20Nations%20(1969)%20-%20Growth%20of%20the%20World's%20Urban%20and%20Rural%20Population,%201920-2000.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUN Population Division\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, cities have had to become even more vigilant in terms of health protections and overall security to better protect their populations. To clarify what changes have led to higher safety, the Economist Intelligence Unit recently released the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsafecities.economist.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2021 Safe Cities Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which ranks 60 cities based on 76 safety indicators across infrastructure, digital life, personal security, environmental factors and, of course, health – with pandemic preparedness and Covid-19 mortality included this year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose ranked at the top of the index – including Copenhagen, Toronto, Singapore, Sydney and Tokyo – all had factors that illustrate how overall safety correlates to a strong sense of social cohesion, total population inclusion and societal trust. We talked to residents in these cities to see how the changes wrought by the pandemic have made their cities more secure, inclusive and resilient; and what travellers still need to know to stay safe when they're finally able to visit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xr9td"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People relaxing in park at sunset, Copenhagen","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.copcap.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ECopenhagen\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERanked at the top of the index, Denmark's capital ranked particularly well due to the index's new environmental security pillar, which measures sustainability (including renewable energy incentives), air quality, waste management and urban forest cover. The latter absolutely had an impact in how well the city and its residents were able to cope with pandemic restrictions, which have been completely lifted as of September 2021.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The parks and green areas as well as waterways were extremely popular during the pandemic. Copenhageners were strolling around buying takeaway and enjoying the city's many breathing spaces,\" said resident Asbjørn Overgaard, CEO of non-profit \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.copcap.com\u002F\"\u003ECopenhagen Capacity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The city also continues to provide \"Corona-guides\" to assist people, as well as extensive signage and clear markings to create space between groups outdoors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe community spirit of the country, best summed up in the Danish word \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esamfundssind\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, also enables citizens of the country to work together and trust each other — including government officials – to create a safer living environment. The Safe Cities Index found a high correlation between control of corruption and safer cities, so it's no surprise that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.transparency.org\u002Fen\u002Fcpi\u002F2020\u002Findex\u002Fnzl\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDenmark's ranking as one of the world's least corrupt countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has enabled its citizens to trust its institutions and each other throughout the pandemic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECopenhagen also implemented a massive Covid testing programme, which remains free for everyone, including tourists. The data gathered allows for the detailed monitoring of outbreaks; in addition, the city will be implementing wastewater testing to catch outbreaks early.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xr9sr"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"People boating in Lake Ontario, Toronto, with cityscape behind","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.toronto.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fwith-more-than-65-per-cent-of-homebound-residents-vaccinated-team-toronto-vaccination-partners-launch-homebound-sprint-to-complete-first-doses\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EToronto\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECanada's largest city ranked a close second in the index in overall safety, with strong scores in infrastructure and environmental security. Residents credit an inclusive culture that values targeted communication across communities, especially when it comes to vaccine awareness and adoption.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToronto resident Farida Talaat points to how the city initiated a number of community-specific vaccination programmes to help make the city safer. For instance, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.toronto.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fwith-more-than-65-per-cent-of-homebound-residents-vaccinated-team-toronto-vaccination-partners-launch-homebound-sprint-to-complete-first-doses\u002F\"\u003EThe Homebound Sprint Vaccination\u003C\u002Fa\u003E plan worked to complete first doses for residents who couldn't leave their homes; and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.toronto.ca\u002Fnews\u002Fcity-of-toronto-unveils-the-black-community-covid-19-response-plan\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlack Scientists' Task Force on Vaccine Equity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was established early in the vaccination effort to ensure a more equity-based approach to inoculation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECountries with the most resilient economies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe single word that connects Denmark\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's next superpowers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocals also feel safe because of the city's long history of multiculturalism. \"In Toronto, it is normal to be born outside Canada. I've found that different ethnic and cultural groups actually interact with each other and do not live in silos,\" said Filipe Vernaza, who has lived in the city since 1998. \"A typical group of people likely has people from different ethnicities, sexual orientations and religions. Toronto is an extremely open-minded city where you can feel safe being who you are.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xr9sq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Merlion statue on waterfront at Merlion Park and city buildings in Singapore","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tracetogether.gov.sg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ESingapore\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERanking second in digital security, health security and infrastructure security, Singapore used those strengths to move fast during the early days of the pandemic, rolling out digital monitoring and contact tracing quickly. The country also boasts one of the world's highest vaccination rates (currently at 80%), but still requires strict monitoring and contact tracing in the face of new variants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Before they can enter the buildings or premises, all residents need to scan their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tracetogether.gov.sg\u002F\"\u003ETraceTogether\u003C\u002Fa\u003E token or phone app for SafeEntry check-ins,\" said Singapore resident Sam Lee, who runs an eponymous \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.samleetravel.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etravel blog\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"This allows the [authorities] to track down individuals who might have mingled or interacted with the infected ones quickly so that a quarantine order can be carried out to contain or break the virus transmission link.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravellers also need to install the TraceTogether token or rent a phone with it installed before they get into the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWorking from home has become standard across most workplaces to reduce interactions, which Lee notes has led to less crowded public transportation. Tourist attractions and shopping malls have limited entrances, and \"Safe Distancing Ambassadors'' monitor crowds to ensure the public complies with health orders; individuals who break them face hefty fines. The public can also track crowds at malls, post offices and grocery stores with the newly launched \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spaceout.gov.sg\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpace Out tool\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xr9sn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Empty city street and shops during the coronavirus pandemic, Sydney, Australia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-58496667\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ESydney\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAustralia's largest city scored fifth overall in the index, and in the top 10 for health security. Australia was one of the first countries to completely shut its borders during the pandemic and has maintained strict lockdowns in the face of rising cases – to positive effect. The per capita Covid death rate in Australia continues to be one of the lowest in the world. As vaccinations reach \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-58496667\"\u003E70% in New South Wales\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, many of those restrictions are expected to lift and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-58757888\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einternational borders are set to open\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in November.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlong with feeling protected from the pandemic, residents have long felt a strong sense of personal safety in the streets of Sydney. \"I have truly never felt as safe in a country as I have living in Sydney,\" said Chloe Scorgie, founder of Australian travel website \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpassportdownunder.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPassport Down Under\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who first moved to Sydney in 2018. \"I travelled around Sydney as a solo female traveller and never felt like I was in any danger.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city also ranked number one in digital security, which includes a city's privacy policy, cybersecurity protections and threats and overall smart city plan. Sydney has led this effort in part with its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au\u002Fstrategies-action-plans\u002Fsmart-city-strategic-framework\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESmart City strategic framework\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which outlines some of the innovations recommended for more connected, safer cities. For instance, the plan outlines how smart sensors could be placed in waste bins, streetlamps and benches to collect information on overall usage, transportation flows and pedestrian activity. Similarly, smart lighting and CCTV networks could improve after-dark safety and the night-time economy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome of these ideas are already being put to work in south Sydney in the form of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.georgesriver.nsw.gov.au\u002FCouncil\u002FAbout-Your-Council\u002FSmart-Cities\u002FSmart-ChillOUT-Hubs\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChillOUT hubs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: open-air spaces where residents can meet up under smart lighting, connect to WiFi and plug in electronics, with data on usage sent back to city leaders so they can better understand and adapt to how their citizens interact with the city's infrastructure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p09xr9sk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Two women wearing masks wipe and disinfect café counter in Tokyo","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapnews.com\u002Farticle\u002Fcoronavirus-pandemic-sports-lifestyle-business-2020-tokyo-olympics-9ac68d89a4124116a0a8d6cfc5e48eb7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ETokyo\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJapan's capital ranked fifth in the overall index and at the very top of the health security index, which measures factors like universal healthcare, pandemic preparedness, life expectancy, mental health and Covid-19 mortality. Though cases surged during the Olympics, rates have fallen dramatically as vaccinations have reached nearly 60% of the population. In light of the positive news, Japan announced the end of the federal state of emergency and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapnews.com\u002Farticle\u002Fcoronavirus-pandemic-sports-lifestyle-business-2020-tokyo-olympics-9ac68d89a4124116a0a8d6cfc5e48eb7\"\u003Egradual lifting of restrictions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as of the end of September 2021. In their place, the country plans to encourage the use of its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.japantimes.co.jp\u002Fnews\u002F2021\u002F07\u002F22\u002Fnational\u002Fvaccine-passports-explainer\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evaccine passport\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for admittance to medical facilities and large events, and even encourage businesses to offer discounts or coupons to passport holders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETokyo also scored in the top five for its infrastructure security, which includes transport safety, pedestrian friendliness and transportation networks. As a walkable city connected by rail, Tokyo was built to encourage walking and community engagement – which has, in turn, led to a stronger citizen participation in security in the forms of neighbourhood crime prevention and watches, and a shared sense of responsibility for crime prevention.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"From the various lost-and-found centres at train stations to the almost unnecessary bike locks, there's an immense amount of respect towards the wellbeing of others,\" said Sena Chang, Tokyo resident and founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theglobalyouthreview.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Global Youth Review\u003C\u002Fa\u003E magazine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe recalls a time she lost her shopping bag in the heart of the city, only to find it in the same place she had left it, along with a kind note. \"A centuries-long culture of collectivism and a great amount of respect for each other makes Tokyo the safest city I've lived in,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-07T20:09:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The world's five safest cities post-pandemic","headlineShort":"The world's safest cities in 2021","image":["p09xr9sn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Empty city street and shops during the coronavirus pandemic, Sydney, Australia","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"55.6761","longitude":"12.5683","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Empty city street and shops during the coronavirus pandemic, Sydney, Australia","promoImage":["p09xr9sn"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201018-samfundssind-the-single-word-that-connects-denmark"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Cities across the world have had to rethink security in the face of the Covid-19 pandemic – here are the ones doing it well.","summaryShort":"Covid-19 has forced cities to re-evaluate what security means for urban life","tag":["tag\u002Fcovid-19"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-06T20:09:39.15459Z","entity":"article","guid":"91abeff3-e56a-4c6d-9448-7d741aa832a3","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-06T20:09:39.15459Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcopenhagen","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ftoronto","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsingapore","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsydney","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ftokyo"],"destinationStat":"europe_denmark_copenhagen_north-america_canada_toronto_asia_singapore_australia-and-pacific_australia_sydney_asia_japan_tokyo","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135641},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world","_id":"61b7e6d145ceed3ad57a41c5","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"As of 1 December, Fiji instituted a quarantine-free travel policy to welcome vaccinated travellers from countries across the globe.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen the pandemic forced Fiji to close its borders in March 2020, the effect was immediately devastating to the island-nation's economy. In a country where the tourism industry accounts for 38% of GDP and employs more than 13% of the total population, the lockdowns meant layoffs, bankruptcies and permanent business closures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was a rough and trying time for everyone,\" said resident Leba Digitaki, programme manager for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frusticpathways.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERustic Pathways\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"The one thing that I am thankful for as a Fijian living in Fiji during the pandemic was the land and the sea. Our forefathers lived off the land and the sea sustainably for many years before the arrival and introduction of Western goods by foreigners.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the time the second wave of virus cases hit the island, many residents had planted gardens, and villages and communities began to use barter systems, with platforms and groups on social media that helped people trade crops and seafood for goods from the shops like flour, sugar, rice and clothes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThankfully, the arrival of vaccines was a \"game-changer\", said Digitaki, as the country made it mandatory to be vaccinated to go to work, to travel or to enter shops and restaurants. Cases drastically diminished. \"Over 91% of our eligible adult population, including tourism frontliners, are fully vaccinated against Covid-19,\" said Brent Hill, the CEO of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fiji.travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETourism Fiji\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It's an amazing feat for any destination.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Houses and boats of Lautoka Fiji Islands","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhy should I go now? \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe huge success in vaccination has made it possible for the country to finally reopen its borders – after 20 long months. As of 1 December, Fiji instituted a quarantine-free travel policy to vaccinated travellers from its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fiji.travel\u002Fcovid-19\u002Ftravelling-to-fiji\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETravel Partner Countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, those with high vax rates and low infections.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough the road ahead won't be easy, Digitaki and other residents are hopeful in routine returning to the islands, even if it looks a little different than before. \"It's funny to say, but there is a sense of normalcy now with the wearing of masks, vaccination cards as a sort of ID and social distancing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETravel with no trace\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite producing \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-asia-54138677\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eless than 1% of the globe's carbon emissions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Fiji's 333 islands are some of the most threatened by rising global temperatures. The nation has been a consistent voice in the importance of tackling climate issues globally but has also focused on sustainability initiatives on its homefront, especially within its tourism industry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.duavatasustainabletourism.org\u002F#vision\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDuavata\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a sustainability collective, brings together tourism businesses that have a like-minded mission to create visitor offerings that preserve the environment and integrate cultural heritage and communities, while also providing mentorship to the next generation of sustainability leaders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island welcoming digital nomads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211206-the-canadian-city-to-visit-this-winter\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Canadian city to visit this winter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's safest cities in 2021\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisitors can also make informed decisions on where they stay on the islands. Digitaki recommends resorts that have either a marine biologist or environmental officer on staff or have a clear sustainability and environmental programme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.namosieco.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENamosi Eco Retreat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is 100% Fijian owned and operated and gives visitors a chance to eat local food and sleep in traditional Fijian bures next to the Luva River – all without phones or electronics, as the retreat encourages a full digital detox. Oceanside, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.leleuvia.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELeleuvia Island Resort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located within the Lomaiviti group of islands, works to preserve its marine environment by coral planting and active monitoring of turtle nesting, whales and dolphins. The island's abundant wildlife can be spotted snorkelling, stand-up paddle boarding or atop a traditional outrigger canoe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"p0b9tbg0","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe pandemic highlighted the continued importance of embracing local ingredients and sustainable ways of eating here. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kanufiji.com\u002F\"\u003EKanu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is one of the restaurants doing it best, said Digitaki. \"The farm-to-table spot gives some of our local dishes a gourmet twist, and explains to the public the importance of reverting back to how our ancestors used to eat,\" she said. To see a local farm up close, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bulaccino.com\u002Ffarm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBulaccino Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E showcases native produce, sheep, ducks and chickens, as well as bees that produce medicinal honey for the farm's companion cafe, just 15 minutes away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EKnow before you go\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of vaccination status, visitors over 12 must provide a negative PCR test three days before departure. Upon arrival, travellers must install and activate the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcarefiji.digitalfiji.gov.fj\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EcareFiji app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which provides countrywide contact tracing. Most businesses require a check-in using QR codes within the app and proof of vaccination for entry, and masks are still required in public places like buses, restaurants and shops.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravellers must also book at least a three-night stay at a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fiji.travel\u002Fcovid-19\u002Fsafer-than-ever\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECare Fiji Commitment\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (CFC) certified property, a World Health Organization-approved programme that ensures high health and safety standards. The CFC provides an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftourismfijicomfj.sharepoint.com\u002F:x:\u002Fs\u002FCloudShare-Operations\u002FETOAEqQi5oNGrPSDNed3y2YBVef8wL36RVceXcViATLtDA?e=xdgbsc\"\u003Eupdated list\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of all the abiding businesses, which must have a completely vaccinated staff.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWithin 48 hours of arrival, visitors must take a mandatory rapid test at a CFC-certified resort – though you don't necessarily need to stay at the resort for that whole timeframe, as long as you're interacting solely with other CFC businesses and checking in with the app.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world-4"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-21T00:21:05Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The 333 islands opening to the world","headlineShort":"The 333 islands opening to the world","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Beachfront property on the island of Taveuni, Fiji","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"17.7134","longitude":"178.0650","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Beachfront property on the island of Taveuni, Fiji","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"As of 1 December, Fiji instituted a quarantine-free travel policy to welcome vaccinated travellers from countries across the globe.","summaryShort":"\"It's an amazing feat for any destination\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-14T00:35:21.989708Z","entity":"article","guid":"4e831a5b-5da1-40d0-9ce6-128c73e2eca5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world","modifiedDateTime":"2021-12-20T20:46:16.013549Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135642},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads","_id":"618adadd45ceed32f5590eb9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Boasting one of the world's highest vaccination rates, Malta is now welcoming back visitors safely with cash incentives and a recently launched Nomad Residence Permit.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Mediterranean island-nation of Malta may be small but its response to the pandemic has been mighty. Once enforcing some of the strictest restrictions in Europe, the country has finally been able to open its borders and welcome back visitors safely, boasting one of the world's highest vaccination rates.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENearly 81% of all Malta residents are fully vaccinated. In fact, Malta and Portugal are the only two nations in Europe that have reached a more than 80% vaccination rate across their total population (including teenagers age 12 to 17, who have been eligible to get the vaccine since summer 2021), according to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvaccinetracker.ecdc.europa.eu\u002Fpublic\u002Fextensions\u002FCOVID-19\u002Fvaccine-tracker.html#uptake-tab\"\u003EEuropean Centre for Disease Prevention and Control\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (ECDC). This make them two of the only places likely to avoid a winter resurgence \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.telegraph.co.uk\u002Fglobal-health\u002Fscience-and-disease\u002Fportugal-malta-safest-places-europe-winter-new-covid-wave-takes\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esays the ECDC director\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and among the safest places to travel in 2021. Visitors to Malta must be vaccinated themselves if they want to skip a 14-day quarantine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhy should I go now?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe country is more than ready to welcome back vaccinated international visitors – especially those looking to take advantage of their company's new remote work policies. In June 2021, Malta launched their \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fresidencymalta.gov.mt\u002Foverview\u002F\"\u003ENomad Residence Permit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which enables visitors to keep their current employment in another country and live in Malta for up to a year (with the opportunity for renewal). Applicants must prove they can work remotely, work for an employer or offer freelance or consulting services and earn at least the equivalent of €2,700 monthly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Typical narrow street with stairs in the city of Valetta, Malta","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gov.mt\u002Fen\u002FGovernment\u002FDOI\u002FPress%20Releases\u002FPages\u002F2021\u002FMay\u002F18\u002Fpr210926en.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EVisitors to Malta may also benefit from the tourism-boosting \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mta.com.mt\u002Fen\u002Fnews-details\u002F293\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFree Independent Traveller (FIT) scheme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which allows \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fissuu.com\u002Fvisitmalta\u002Fdocs\u002Ffit_scheme?fr=sMGQ2MDI4NTQ2MTQ\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eparticipating hotels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to give guests who stay three days or more up to €200 (€100 from the government and a matching subsidy from the hotel) in incentives (which can include a room discount or on-site perks). Book quickly though, as the special deals may end when funds for the programme run out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETravel with no trace\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMalta has been making some of the largest strides in environmental sustainability in recent years, ranking 10th in Earth.org's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fearth.org\u002Fglobal_sustain\u002Fmalta-ranked-10th-in-the-global-sustainability-index\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGlobal Sustainability Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In 2021, the country launched \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gov.mt\u002Fen\u002FGovernment\u002FDOI\u002FPress%20Releases\u002FPages\u002F2021\u002FMay\u002F18\u002Fpr210926en.aspx\"\u003Eits action plan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E toward a circular economy – one which ensures that producers remain responsible for where their products end up, encouraging reuse, recycling and overall reduction of resources.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo encourage this, the Malta Ministry for Tourism launched its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftourism.gov.mt\u002Fen\u002FDepartments-Sections-Units\u002FPages\u002FDepartments-Sections-Units%20Sub%20Pages\u002FPolicy%20Development%20and%20Programme%20Implementation\u002FDESTINATIONS%20-%20The%20Green%20Mobility%20Hotel%20Award.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreen Mobility programm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003Ee\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E for hotels in 2019, which awards hotels for encouraging sustainable modes of transport like bicycling, electric vehicles and shuttle services for its employees and guests to get to and from the hotel and urban centres. Current award winners include the five-star \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthepalacemalta.com\u002Fwere-going-green\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAX The Palace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, its four-star sister hotel \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvictoriahotel.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAX Victoria\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwaterfronthotelmalta.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Waterfront Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, conveniently located in Sliema near the ferry to capital city Valletta.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEating sustainably and serving local ingredients from local farmers and fishermen has been on the rise here as well. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.radissonhotels.com\u002Fen-us\u002Fhotels\u002Fradisson-blu-resort-malta-st-julians\u002Frestaurant-bar\u002Fle-bistro\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Bistro\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.radissonhotels.com\u002Fen-us\u002Fhotels\u002Fradisson-blu-resort-malta-st-julians\u002Frestaurant-bar\u002Fle-bistro\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERadisson Blu Resort \u003C\u002Fa\u003Enear the sandy beach of Golden Bay, works closely with local suppliers to serve Spanish- and Italian-influenced dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those looking to eat more plant-based fare, Malta resident James Cutajar, who runs the travel blog \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthetraveldeck.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Travel Deck\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, recommends The Grassy Hopper, Malta's first vegan restaurant, which recently rebranded under the name \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Ffoamandfork\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFoam and Fork\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"They offer some amazing burgers, wraps and salads,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Old buildings of Valletta, Malta at dusk","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's easy to eat green at most restaurants here, even those that aren't explicitly plant-based. \"If someone is vegan, they will not run out of places to eat,\" said Emily A Francis, an American expat who writes for the blog \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fohmymalta.com.mt\u002Fcategory\u002Feat\u002Fother_perspective\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOh My Malta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It's one of the things I really like about Malta.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBoth Francis and Cutajar recommend the chain \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eeetwell.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEeetwell\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which sources seasonal and sustainable ingredients its fast, healthy dishes (like salads and wraps), and has a handful of locations across the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's safest cities in 2021\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190107-why-are-the-maltese-so-competitive\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy are the Maltese so competitive?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211104-four-us-cities-ready-to-welcome-back-travellers-safely\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFour US cities bouncing back\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo see some of the island's natural beauty, head to the north-west to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmajjistral.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMajjistral Nature and History Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Malta's first national park aimed at preserving the natural landscape established in 2007. Navigate the park (named after the Maltese word for \"north-west region\" or \"north-west wind\") with the convenient \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fd\u002Fu\u002F0\u002Fviewer?mid=1KkyBoHmFI1lHxPX0ZtJrwIxSWZCpZC9h&ll=35.946915540879374%2C14.340885199999999&z=15\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edigital map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E marked with geological and historical points of interest. Admission is free and open 24\u002F7.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EKnow before you go\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough locals say restaurants and bars are pretty much back to business as usual, some pandemic-related regulations remain in place, like group gatherings (including restaurant seatings) limited to eight people and 1.5m distances between indoor tables at restaurants and bars. Masks are still mandatory indoors, but as of recently, not required outdoors for those who are vaccinated.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View of fort and coast at Il-Majjistral Nature and History Park","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fgianpulavillage.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EClubs in the popular St Julian's area are open. \"But contrary to the normal partying that we're used to, guests should be seated,\" said Cutajar. That said, he says that clubs and lounge bars outside of the St Julian area may be a little less strict. He recommends the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Funomalta.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUno Club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fgianpulavillage.com\u002Fclub\u002Fmarrakech-club\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMarrakech\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fgianpulavillage.com\u002F\"\u003EGianpula\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther country-wide restrictions have recently been lifted as of October, with seated events now open to 300 (up from 100) and public transportation capacity allowance up to 80% (up from 65%).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravellers should consult the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdeputyprimeminister.gov.mt\u002Fen\u002Fhealth-promotion\u002Fcovid-19\u002FPages\u002Ftravel.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMinistry of Health travel page\u003C\u002Fa\u003E before embarking on a trip here, as restrictions and requirements can change rapidly. Countries listed on the red zone list can enter Malta with official proof of vaccination (US travellers will need the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.myverifly.com\u002F#\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVerifly app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) or a 14-day quarantine, while those on the dark red list need to apply for special exemptions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E --\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-11-10T20:30:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Malta: The island welcoming digital nomads","headlineShort":"The island welcoming digital nomads","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aerial view of the boats at Marsaxlokk harbour in Malta","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"35.9375","longitude":"14.3754","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Aerial view of the boats at Marsaxlokk harbour in Malta","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Boasting one of the world's highest vaccination rates, Malta is now welcoming back visitors safely with cash incentives and a recently launched Nomad Residence Permit.","summaryShort":"It's been noted as one of the safest places to travel in 2021","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-11-09T20:32:23.12947Z","entity":"article","guid":"cdce0f12-9985-486b-8740-717bc9db366c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads","modifiedDateTime":"2021-11-09T20:55:30.873739Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135642},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","_id":"61d6169d45ceed4a955d8503","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway"],"bodyIntro":"Even as the Omicron variant has parts of Europe on lockdown again, the UAE has managed, so far, to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThroughout the pandemic, the United Arab Emirates has been one of the most resilient in the face of changing Covid variants, with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fourworldindata.org\u002Fcovid-vaccinations\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eworld's highest vaccination rate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and extensive, affordable testing. In fact, the UAE is currently ranked number one in Bloomberg's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomberg.com\u002Fgraphics\u002Fcovid-resilience-ranking\u002F?sref=d39KtWbu\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECovid Resilience ranking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which ranks 53 countries on 12 indicators like healthcare quality, virus mortality and reopening travel. Even as the Omicron variant has parts of Europe on lockdown again, the UAE has managed, so far, to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Being here now feels like a different planet to two years ago, and I love it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDue to the pandemic, its most populous city, Dubai, has also transformed itself from a global tourism hub into one more invested in its own community. \"We all had to work together to protect each other,\" said Kathy Johnston, chief chocolate officer at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmirzam.com\u002F\"\u003EMirzam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E chocolate company, who has lived in the city for more than 30 years. \"People are supporting more local concepts and projects with authenticity behind them. Things are moving a little slower and more considerately. Being here now feels like a different planet to two years ago, and I love it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EWhy should I go now?\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor one, the weather is perfect right now, say residents. \"October to May is the best time of year to visit because it's not excruciatingly hot anymore,\" said Dubai resident Tala Mohamad. That also has meant the return of outdoor events and activities and leisurely evenings spent on the city's numerous patio and rooftop seaside lounges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city is also hosting \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EExpo 2020\u003C\u002Fa\u003E until the end of March 2022, a global six-month event featuring pavilions from all over the world, showcasing unique innovations and futuristic projects. \"Don't miss [the] Expo. Just don't,\" said Johnston. \"Give yourself a whole week. Wait three hours in line for Japanese sushi and enjoy the date pudding with dukkah at [on-site restaurant] \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002Fen\u002Fplan-your-visit\u002Fwhere-to-eat\u002Fbaron\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBaron\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and dream under the stars at the Australian pavilion.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETravel with no trace\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDubai has worked diligently over the past decade to become more sustainable, with major investments in solar energy, water conservation and green building and infrastructure. Expo 2020 is also hosting a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002Fen\u002Funderstanding-expo\u002Fsustainability-district\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESustainability Pavilion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, showcasing projects like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.expo2020dubai.com\u002Fen\u002Fnews\u002F20200121-sustainability-pavilion-canopy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esolar trees\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that provide shade while creating energy and a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thenationalnews.com\u002Fuae\u002Fexpo-2020\u002F2021\u002F09\u002F14\u002Fdutch-pavilions-vertical-farm-produces-first-vegetables-at-expo-2020-dubai\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehuge vertical farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E growing 9,000 plants and herbs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bf5m1j"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Solar trees at the Sustainability Pavilion Expo 2020 Dubai","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.orfalibros.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThe pandemic unexpectedly created a boom in chefs engaging with local ingredients and talent, said Johnston, with a handful of new spaces opening up in the past two years. Some of her favourites include \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.orfalibros.com\u002F\"\u003EOrfali Bro's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for its Arabic inspirations; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftresindstudio.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETresind Studio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for its upscale dinner and breakfast; and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthebarn.de\u002Fpages\u002Fthe-barn-dubai\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Barn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E speciality coffee bar and next-door \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fhapi.ae\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHAPI\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for their sweet potato pancakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor a unique take mixing Japanese inspiration with local produce, Mohamad recommends \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.moon-rise.xyz\u002Fpages\u002Fabout\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoonrise\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at the rooftop of Eden House and its \u003Cem\u003Eomakase\u003C\u002Fem\u003E menu. \"For example, one dish is \u003Cem\u003Echutoro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E from Spain with honey from Ras Al Khaimah [the emirate 100km north-east of Dubai],\" she said. With just eight seats, it's usually fully booked so reserve in advance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe 333 islands opening to the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's safest cities in 2021\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island welcoming digital nomads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EResident Vibha Dhawan, a travel advisor with \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ovationtravel.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOvation Travel Group\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, recommends \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fboca.ae\u002F\"\u003EBoca\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which uses local ingredients like salmon from the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fishfarm.ae\u002F\"\u003EUAE's Fish Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and milk from local camel dairies; and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fthesumofusdubai\u002F\"\u003EThe Sum of Us\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the first cafes in Dubai to become eco-friendly by using avocado seed straws and offering 10% off to customers who bring a reusable takeaway cup.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor a more in-depth look at the city's sustainability initiatives, Dhawan recommends checking out the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.emiratesbiofarm.com\u002F\"\u003EEmirates Bio Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the largest private organic farm in the country. \"Book a group tour and sunset session,\" she said. \"This gives you an in-depth visit around the acres of land followed by the chance to harvest your own vegetables. They also offer pop-up dining experiences throughout the year.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo experience the natural desert of the region, she recommends the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.marriott.com\u002Fhotels\u002Ftravel\u002Fdxbam-al-maha-a-luxury-collection-desert-resort-and-spa-dubai\u002F\"\u003EAl Maha resort and spa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Located within \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20110321-dubais-first-national-park\"\u003EDubai's first national park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the five-star resort is dedicated to preserving the unique ecology of the desert, including the endangered Arabian oryx. A herd of 300, the largest in Arabia, now roams freely after decades of conservation efforts. On-site field guides give guided wildlife tours on foot, 4X4, camel and horseback.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bf5lzg"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"A farmworker harvests peppers at Emirates Bio Farm in Al Ain, United Arab Emirates","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor an experience in the heart of the city, the new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.25hours-hotels.com\u002Fen\u002Fhotels\u002Fdubai\u002Fone-central\"\u003E25hours One Central\u003C\u002Fa\u003E hotel, which opened in December 2021, celebrates the country's traditions by immersing visitors in theme of \u003Cem\u003Ehakawati\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, Arabic for storytelling. The experience starts in the lobby with the circular \"Fountain of Tales\" library with more than 5,000 books, topped with rotating art from local artists, and continues throughout the hotel with Bedouin-inspired art and décor, a tribute to both ancient and modern nomads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EKnow before you go\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Omicron variant has travel restrictions changing rapidly, so check the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fu.ae\u002Fen\u002Finformation-and-services\u002Fjustice-safety-and-the-law\u002Fhandling-the-covid-19-outbreak\u002Ftravelling-amid-covid-19\u002Ftravelling-to-the-uae\"\u003EUAE Travel to Dubai\u003C\u002Fa\u003E page for the latest notices and requirements. Currently, travel is open to vaccinated tourists with a WHO-approved vaccine, though visitors must undergo a rapid test on arrival. Unvaccinated travellers must provide a negative PCR test within 72 hours of departure. Travel is currently suspended for those coming from or transiting through \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fu.ae\u002Fen\u002Finformation-and-services\u002Fjustice-safety-and-the-law\u002Fhandling-the-covid-19-outbreak\u002Ftravelling-amid-covid-19\u002Ftravelling-to-the-uae\"\u003Ecertain African countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravellers must download the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fu.ae\u002Fen\u002Finformation-and-services\u002Fjustice-safety-and-the-law\u002Fhandling-the-covid-19-outbreak\u002Fsmart-solutions-to-fight-covid-19\u002Fthe-alhosn-uae-app\"\u003EAl Hosn app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the UAE's official contact tracing and health status app, which uses a colour-coded system (grey, red, green) to reflect test results and vaccination status. The Dubai Health Authority offers the DXB Smart app, available for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fplay.google.com\u002Fstore\u002Fapps\u002Fdetails?id=ae.gov.dha.covid19\"\u003EAndroid\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapps.apple.com\u002Fapp\u002Fcovid19-dxb-smart-app\u002Fid1504818399\"\u003EiOS\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which gives visitors real-time information about UAE's current Covid rates, tracks test results and exposures, and is used to show vaccination status within the emirate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient-6"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-06T22:06:15Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Why is this country so resilient?","headlineShort":"Why is this country so resilient?","image":["p0bf5m2f"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"25.2048","longitude":"55.2708","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bf5m2f"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-the-333-islands-opening-to-the-world","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211006-the-worlds-five-safest-cities-post-pandemic","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211109-malta-the-island-welcoming-digital-nomads"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Even as the Omicron variant has parts of Europe on lockdown again, the UAE has managed, so far, to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low.","summaryShort":"It has managed to stay open to most travellers while keeping infections low","tag":["tag\u002Fsustainability","tag\u002Fcovid-19"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-05T22:07:18.553104Z","entity":"article","guid":"06ce894b-75d2-462a-8da6-da95220ccf11","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","modifiedDateTime":"2022-01-05T22:07:18.553104Z","project":"travel","slug":"20220105-why-is-this-country-so-resilient","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Funited-arab-emirates","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmiddle-east"],"destinationStat":"middle-east_united-arab-emirates_middle-east","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135642},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea","_id":"6183c29545ceed75666c26ee","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"It is North America's only known native caffeinated plant and once threatened the British East India Company. So why has the world forgotten about it?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhat if you were surrounded by tea and didn’t know it? In an age where tea is the most consumed drink on the planet after water and is expected to become an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.statista.com\u002Fstatistics\u002F326384\u002Fglobal-tea-beverage-market-size\u002F#:~:text=The%20global%20tea%20market%20was,long%20history%20of%20popularity%20worldwide.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E$81.6bn global industry\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by 2026, the possibility of living among an endless supply of ready-to-be-picked, wild tea might seem like a far-fetched dream. But across large swaths of the southern United States, such a reality exists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor those who know what to look for, what was once the most widely consumed caffeinated beverage in the Americas comes from a plant growing in plain sight, ignored by most, but deeply rooted deep in history and intrigue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYaupon (pronounced yō-pon\u003Cem\u003E)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, is a holly bush indigenous to the south-east United States and happens to be North America's only known native caffeinated plant. Once called \"cassina\" by the native Timucua tribe that lived in southern Georgia and northern Florida, and dubbed \"black drink\" by Spanish explorers (because of the tea’s dark hue), yaupon’s native environment spans the Atlantic Coast from Virginia to Florida and along the Gulf of Mexico all the way to West Texas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The leaves yield a yellow to dark-orange elixir with a fruity and earthy aroma and a smooth flavour with malty tones","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to research conducted by Dr William Merrill of the Smithsonian Institution, the shrub was consumed by almost every Native American tribe who lived among it. When picked, roasted and boiled, the leaves yield a yellow to dark-orange elixir with a fruity and earthy aroma and a smooth flavour with malty tones. As if orchestrated specifically for the mind and body, yaupon leaves' perfect ratio of stimulating xanthines such as caffeine, theobromine and theophylline release slowly into the body, providing a jitter-free mental clarity and an ease to the stomach.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday yaupon, which is distinguished by its dense, ovular green leaves and bright red berries, continues to grow widely throughout rural and suburban America, where it can be found in forests, on coastal islands and adorning neighbourhoods as an ornamental bush. Very few people, however, know that it can be brewed. Yaupon’s role in North American history has been fragmented, and only after a centuries-old history steeped in mysticism and international fame are people now beginning to recognise that they are living among the US' forgotten native tea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe earliest origins of caffeinated beverages around the world are linked with spiritualism and medicine. According to Judith Hawley, professor of 18th-Century literature at Royal Holloway, University of London, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201119-how-coffee-forever-changed-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecoffee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E spread from Ethiopia starting in the 9th Century as a way for religious devotees of Sufism to remain alert and worship until the early hours of the morning. And according to research by Dr Chung Yang of Rutgers University, tea was consumed in China for thousands of years strictly as a medicine before becoming a popular beverage during the Tang and Song Dynasties (roughly 618–1279AD).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYaupon played a similar role for Native American tribes, including the Creek, Timucua, Chitimacha, Choctaw, Chickasaw, Cherokee, Apalachee and many others. The oldest-known evidence of yaupon consumption comes from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcahokiamounds.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECahokia Mounds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Illinois, where the holly’s residue was identified inside ornately decorated ceramic vessels dating to 1050AD. While archaeological evidence suggests that the beverage was important to Native American culture for at least 1,000 years, the most widely distributed descriptions of its use come from Europeans such as Alvar Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca, who identified yaupon while exploring the Texas coast in 1542, and English-Jamaican merchant Jonathan Dickinson, who observed several yaupon ceremonies in Florida after being shipwrecked in 1696. Though it was also consumed as an everyday, energising beverage among Native Americans, yaupon was commonly associated with purification and was incorporated into men’s-only rituals that often involved fasting, drinking and vomiting to cleanse the body and mind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Before a big decision was made, yaupon would be consumed to purify people so that their decisions were clear,” said University of South Florida ethnobotanist and medical anthropologist Dr Anna Dixon. Yaupon has no emetic properties, so historians postulate that other herbs were occasionally mixed in to induce vomiting, and that the sheer act of drinking huge volumes of yaupon on an empty stomach could have been vomit-producing on its own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Yaupon was popularly sold in London as South Seas Tea and served in Parisian salons as Apalachine","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA collection of first-hand accounts compiled by Dr William Sturtevant, past curator at the Smithsonian Institution, noted that as Europeans continued to explore and colonise the southern United States, they frequently encountered yaupon and often assimilated it into their own lives. At the Spanish outpost of Saint Augustine in northern Florida, yaupon was consumed to such an extent that in his 1615 chronicles of New World medicinal plants, botanist Francisco Ximenez noted that, “Any day that a Spaniard does not drink it, he feels he is going to die.” In his volume, Black Drink published in 1979 which explores the history of yaupon, anthropologist Dr Charles Hudson of the University of Georgia noted that by the time of the American Revolutionary War (1775-1783), the holly was grown on colonial farms, consumed widely in towns across the US South and traded to Europe where it was popularly sold in London as South Seas Tea and served in Parisian salons as Apalachine. Yaupon’s success as an international beverage, however, was not to last.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190916-a-race-to-rescue-frozen-artefacts\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA race to rescue frozen artefacts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe true story behind England's tea obsession\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190318-a-forgotten-food-of-the-american-south\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA forgotten food of the American South\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile travelling through North Carolina in 1783, German botanist Johann David Schöpf recorded in his diaries that the naturally sweet alternative to traditional black tea had become so popular by the 1780s that the British East India Company deemed it a threat to their control of the tea market, and England limited yaupon’s importation into Europe. In 1789, William Aiton, a famed botanist and the first superintendent of Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, appointed by King George III, gave yaupon its controversial scientific name, \u003Cem\u003EIlex vomitoria\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. While some believe that Aiton’s nomenclature reflected yaupon’s ritual consumption among Native Americans, others believe it was a politically motivated smear campaign to further squash the threat to the English tea trade. Whatever his underlying motivation, Aiton’s unsavoury naming tainted yaupon’s reputation and instilled a lasting fear of unwanted side effects.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy the mid-1800s, yaupon’s popularity in the US further declined as it became associated with poor, rural communities who could not afford to import traditional Chinese tea. The plant's intimate connection to Native American communities also diminished, as tribes were either wiped out or relocated to regions where yaupon didn’t grow. While yaupon ceremonies have persisted within some Native American tribes such as the Cherokee, and the beverage maintained popularity along isolated coastal areas in North Carolina, the tea became largely forgotten in the United States by the 1860s where it grew incognito for nearly 150 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2011 following a devastating drought, Texas native Abianne Falla looked out over her family’s farm and contemplated a row of healthy, green bushes that contrasted with the otherwise desiccated landscape. A few years later and 1,000 miles east in Florida, Bryon White made a similar observation while hiking through coastal forests near his home. After Falla and White independently researched the resilient plants, the two were shocked to discover that the holly not only brewed a tasty, caffeinated drink, but was also a central character in a largely forgotten story.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I just couldn’t believe that nobody knew about it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“As I began to learn more about yaupon, I was floored,” said White, “I just couldn’t believe that nobody knew about it.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThough White quickly became fascinated with the holly’s history, he also realised that trying to brew an actual drink from it would be difficult, as there was no-one left to learn from. Guided by instructions he found in colonial diaries compiled in Dr Hudson’s volume about yaupon, White began picking the leaves and experimenting with roasting techniques. In a similar fashion, Falla tried roasting her first batch of yaupon in the family kitchen, discovering that she had a natural talent for creating a delicious nutty and buttery flavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGuided by a curiosity for botany and an interest in history, Falla and White unexpectedly found themselves on parallel journeys to revive the ancient beverage, with Falla starting \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.catspringtea.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECatspring Yaupon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E outside Austin, Texas, in 2013, and White founding \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yauponbrothers.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYaupon Brothers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Edgewater, Florida, in 2015. Today, yaupon continues to grow in popularity as additional startups have begun selling and promoting the historical beverage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“When we started selling it at farmer’s markets in Texas in 2016, people were completely perplexed,” reminisced \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flostpinesyaupontea.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELost Pines Yaupon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E co-owner Heidi Wachter, who alongside her partner Jason Ellis also perfected their yaupon knowledge through at-home experimentation. “[Locals] recognised it as a landscaping plant but had no idea it was also a tea.” Once they tried it, however, customers returned week after week asking for more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYaupon’s demand has rapidly soared as it becomes increasingly recognised across the US. In 2018, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yauponamerica.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmerican Yaupon Association\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (AYA) was founded to help connect yaupon enthusiasts and to ensure that the quickly rebounding industry honoured its past in an ethical way. With success comes responsibility and a chance to reverse patterns of colonialism and exploitation that have plagued other caffeinated beverages like coffee and tea. Today, the small-scale farmers and entrepreneurs of the AYA are harvesting, roasting and selling more than 10,000lb of yaupon each year while promoting sustainability and the beverage’s indigenous roots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Yaupon is a sad symbol of erasure, and I hope that in trying to revive it we can offer a way to remind people of what’s happened and create a little bit of correction,\" said White. \"We have a chance to do it the right way.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the spirit of producing yaupon through non-exploitative and environmentally conscious practices, Yaupon Brothers works with organisations to promote indigenous rights and involve them in the yaupon trade; Catspring Yaupon offers a rehabilitative employment initiative to help at-risk individuals; and Lost Pines collaborates with Texas conservation groups harvesting wild yaupon to promote biodiversity and mitigate forest fire danger.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We understand that we didn’t invent yaupon,” said Falla, “but we hope that we can be stewards to share a beverage and its communal values that have been enjoyed and respected for thousands of years.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-02-24T20:52:28Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Yaupon: The rebirth of America's forgotten tea","headlineShort":"The drink that once threatened Britain","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"It is North America's only known native caffeinated plant and once threatened the British East India Company. So why has the world forgotten about it?","summaryShort":"Its history is deeply rooted deep in mysticism and intrigue","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-02-23T21:01:47.960133Z","entity":"article","guid":"635e0e8b-5d7d-4ce8-bcc2-3498fc90fa22","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:04:05.681596Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135643},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession","_id":"6183c22a45ceed45867d265e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A stiff upper lip and an almost genetic love of tea are what makes the English English. Except that the latter was actually influenced by a Portuguese woman.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EImagine the most English-English person you can think of. Now I’m fairly certain that no matter what picture you just conjured up, that person comes complete with a stiff upper lip and a cup of tea in their hand. Because that’s what the English do. They carry on and they drink tea. Tea is so utterly English, such an ingrained part of the culture, that it’s also ingrained in how everyone else around the world perceives that culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Tea is such an ingrained part of the culture, that it’s also ingrained in how everyone else around the world perceives that culture ","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd while it’s fairly common knowledge that Westerners have China to thank for the original cultivation of the tannic brew, it’s far less known that it was the Portuguese who inspired its popularity in England – in particular, one Portuguese woman. Think about that next time you’re sipping steaming oolong from delicate mugs at the Ritz, or standing under the portrait of Earl Grey in the Victoria & Albert Museum.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E–  \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170808-the-truth-about-japanese-tempura\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe truth about Japanese tempura\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E–  \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170717-the-country-that-cant-choose-a-side\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe country that can't choose a side\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E–  \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170615-the-town-that-split-the-world-in-two\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe town that split the world in two\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETravel back in time to 1662, when Catherine of Braganza (daughter of Portugal’s King John IV) won the hand of England’s newly restored monarch, King Charles II, with the help of a very large dowry that included money, spices, treasures and the lucrative ports of Tangiers and Bombay. This hookup made her one very important lady: the Queen of England, Scotland and Ireland. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen she relocated up north to join King Charles, she is said to have packed loose-leaf tea as part of her personal belongings; it would also have likely been part of her dowry. A fun legend has it that the crates were marked \u003Cem\u003ETransporte de Ervas Aromaticas \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(Transport of Aromatic Herbs) – later abbreviated to T.E.A.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat last bit probably isn’t true (etymologists believe the word ‘tea’ came from a transliteration of a Chinese character), but what is for sure is that tea was already popular among the aristocracy of Portugal due to the country’s direct trade line to China via its colony in Macau, first settled in the mid-1500s (visit today to sample the other end of this culinary exchange, the Portuguese \u003Cem\u003Epastéis de nata\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, aka egg custard tarts).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen Catherine arrived in England, tea was being consumed there only as a medicine, supposedly invigorating the body and keeping the spleen free of obstructions. But since the young queen was used to sipping the pick-me-up as part of her daily routine, she no doubt continued her habit, making it popular as a social beverage rather than as a health tonic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Everything from Catherine's clothes to her furniture became the source of court talk","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“When Catherine married Charles, she was the focus of attention – everything from her clothes to her furniture became the source of court talk,” said Sarah-Beth Watkins, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FCatherine-Braganza-Charles-Restoration-Queen\u002Fdp\u002F1785355694\"\u003ECatherine of Braganza: Charles II's Restoration Queen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. “Her regular drinking of tea encouraged others to drink it. Ladies flocked to copy her and be a part of her circle.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHot poet of the time, Edmund Waller, even wrote a birthday ode to her shortly after her arrival, which forever linked the queen and Portugal with the fashionable status of tea in England. He wrote:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E“The best of Queens, and best of herbs, we owe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETo that bold nation, which the way did show\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETo the fair region where the sun doth rise,\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWhose rich productions we so justly prize.”\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo be fair, tea could be found in England before Catherine arrived, but it wasn’t very popular. “Waller is recorded drinking tea in 1657, which is a whole six years before Catherine turns up,” said Markman Ellis, professor of 18th-Century Studies at Queen Mary, University of London, and co-author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002Fdp\u002FB011LDV5JO\u002Fref=dp-kindle-redirect?_encoding=UTF8&btkr=1\"\u003EEmpire of Tea: The Asian Leaf that Conquered the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E “He is a well-known aficionado for tea, which is unusual because it was so expensive and everyone was drinking coffee at this time.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe reason for the cost was threefold: England had no direct trade with China; tea from India wasn’t around yet; and the small quantities that the Dutch were importing were sold at a very high premium.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“It was very expensive because it came from China and it was taxed very heavily,” explained Jane Pettigrew, author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FSocial-History-Tea-Influence-Community\u002Fdp\u002F0983610622\"\u003EA Social History of Tea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, winner of the 2014 World Tea Awards’ Best Tea Educator and director of studies at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ukteaacademy.co.uk\u002F\"\u003EUK Tea Academy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIndeed it was so pricey (a pound went for as much as a working-class citizen made in a year), that, according to Ellis, “it ruled out anyone but the most elite and wealthiest sectors of society. So tea became associated with elite women’s sociability around the royal court, of which Catherine was the most famous emblem.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd what happens with famous people? Non-famous people imitate them. “When the queen does something, everyone wants to follow suit, so very, very gradually by the end of the 17th Century, the aristocracy had started sipping small amounts of tea,” Pettrigrew said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf course, the upper class didn’t invent the ritual of tea-drinking themselves – they were imitators too. As Pettigrew recounted, “Until tea arrived with the Dutch, we [the English] didn’t know anything about tea. No sugar spoons, no cups, no tea kettles (only kitchen kettles), so we did what always happens: we copied the entire ritual from China. We imported [Chinese] tiny porcelain tea bowls, the saucers, the dishes for sugar, the small teapots.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECatherine’s home country had a hand in in popularising this aspect of the tea experience, too. “Portugal was one of the routes [by which] porcelain got to Europe,” Ellis noted. “It was very expensive and very beautiful, and one of the things that made tea drinking attractive was all the pretty stuff that went with it, like having the latest iPhone.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESince it was so prized, porcelain was probably part of Catherine’s dowry, and, like other aristocratic ladies, she would have accrued many gorgeous trappings to pad out her tea sessions once she was living in England. Pettigrew explained, “She started it as an aristocratic habit in her palaces – very posh, very upper class, and so the ceremony that arrived from China was immediately associated with fine living. As soon as tea arrived, it had very strong connections to feminine women and very big houses, I suppose through Catherine, because the porcelain cost huge amounts of money. The poor had to make due with earthenware. So everything that was expensive had to do with the aristocracy. It’s the same as today: You buy expensive things to show how important you are.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEventually the lower classes transformed tea into a more egalitarian drink, but today, travellers to London can still experience the aristocratic pomp and circumstance at upscale hotels’ afternoon tea services, most notably at the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpalm-court.co.uk\u002F#\u002Fafternoon-tea\u002F\"\u003ELangham Hotel’s Palm Court in London\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (which claims to be the birthplace of afternoon tea), the famed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theritzlondon.com\u002Fdine-with-us\u002Fafternoon-tea\u002Fafternoon-tea-offers\u002Ftraditional-afternoon-tea\u002F\"\u003ERitz London\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.claridges.co.uk\u002Fmayfair-restaurants-bars\u002Flondon-afternoon-tea\u002F\"\u003EClaridge’s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYou can find fancy tea events in Portugal too, but even there, the link to Queen Catherine is not well known. In the historic municipality of Sintra, though, one hotel is trying to change that. At the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.minorhotels.com\u002Fen\u002Ftivoli\u002Ftivoli-palacio-de-seteais\"\u003ETivoli Palácio de Seteais Sintra Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, general manager Mario Custódio is about to launch a special afternoon tea themed after Catherine in October. “In school we don’t get this [history],” Custódio said. “I had no idea. Even the Portuguese don’t know this.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe area of Sintra, spread across lush green mountains about 30 minutes outside Lisbon, is a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F723\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage Site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, noted for its concentrated displays of European romantic architecture. The Seteais Palace, built in the 1780s by Dutch consul Daniel Gildemeester, is just one of several ornate, whimsical estate homes that dot the Sintra landscape; wedding-cake follies overlooking intricate, sprawling gardens and parks. Queen Catherine never lived here, but the concentration of old wealth and must-see mansions makes it the perfect place to reflect on what the lives of Portuguese nobility used to be like. You can easily imagine opulently dressed noblewomen gathering in opulently draped drawing rooms, clinking teacups and swapping news and gossip.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Custódio, bringing these little-known bits of history to life is what makes the travel experience special and personal for visitors. “I’m trying to [present] these things that are very unknown because that is \u003Cem\u003Eluxury\u003C\u002Fem\u003E today,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If Queen Catherine gave you a gift of marmalade, she didn’t think that much of you","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe daily tea service (open only to hotel guests), will highlight aspects of the Portuguese connection to this genteel tradition. For instance, Custódio is working with a historian to serve the type of tea Catherine would have drank (Ellis thinks it’s most likely a green tea, as no tea came out of India until the 1830s, long after she’d passed away). Marmalade will also be part of the menu, as that’s another part of the Catherine of Braganza mythology that Custódio has stumbled across in his research. The tale goes that, since some of the best oranges in the world come from Portugal, Catherine had them shipped over to her new English home regularly. The ones that didn’t make the journey in top condition were turned into marmalade. Of course, whole oranges were a more prized snack, so if Queen Catherine gave you a gift of marmalade instead of oranges, it meant she didn’t think that much of you.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe spread at the Seteais Palace will come with no such judgments. Custódio is simply hoping that by mingling with visitors during the themed tea service and by gifting them with a small book – complete with QR codes for more photos, historical facts and fun stories – he’ll be helping to share some of the culture and colour of his home and reinforce the long-term influence of a little-known transplant queen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We Portuguese want to believe that Catarina was responsible for the tea. I don’t want this history to die.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin over three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-08-28T19:47:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The true story behind England’s tea obsession","headlineShort":"Where afternoon tea really came from","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A stiff upper lip and an almost genetic love of tea are what makes the English English. Except that the latter was actually influenced by a Portuguese woman.","summaryShort":"Something to think about as you sip your next cuppa","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2017-08-27T20:22:16.534643Z","entity":"article","guid":"112181dc-41f4-46cc-aae9-a017a1dac9e4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T23:49:13.065741Z","project":"travel","slug":"20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135643},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life","_id":"6183c28c45ceed7585734532","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"While Malaysia generally stays under the radar, it is one of Asia’s most friendly and tolerant countries where its three major ethnic communities live mostly in harmony.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a newly minted resident of Kuala Lumpur, the first Malaysian word I learned was “\u003Cem\u003Elah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E”. Each time I used it in conversation, both locals and expats exclaimed in delight, “you have become a Malaysian so soon!” For that short, simple sound used as a suffix in everyday conversations encapsulates the ease and warmth with which Malaysian society embraces everyone within its fold. Indeed, although it is believed to be of Cantonese or Hokkien origin, lah is used most commonly in what is known as Manglish – Malaysian English – a delightful patois of formal English with casual smatterings of Malay, the national language.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELah is added to the end of sentences to soften or strengthen an assertion, to state an unequivocal opinion, to offer a sheepish apology or to imply that something has been said in jest. But what is most significant is that the word is a great equaliser, used by practically everyone, cutting smoothly across barriers of language, race and religion in Malaysia. I hear it in air-conditioned shopping malls and in sweltering fresh food markets, uttered by the young and the old alike. And when I spot the lah at the end of any sentence – even ones that convey anger, dismay or rejection – I know the speaker means well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAll this is to say that I have found Malaysian hospitality itself as cordial as this Manglish word. While the majority ethnic group in the country is Malay, also known as Bumiputera (meaning “son of the soil”), nearly 25% of the population is Chinese, while Indian Malaysians, mostly from the South Indian state of Tamil Nadu, comprise close to 8%. While Malaysia generally stays under the radar, overshadowed by its glitzy neighbours – the commercial hub of Singapore and tourist haven of Thailand – it is one of the region’s mostfriendly and tolerant countries where its three major ethnic communities have lived in harmony for the most part for many decades. Of late, there has been the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fblogs-trending-33572436\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erising spectre of racism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E directed towards recent incomers, but such cases are still relatively few and far between.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMalaysia's humble 'king of noodles'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210124-nigeria-the-country-that-loves-to-overachieve\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe country that loves to overachieve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200630-why-are-the-japanese-so-resilient\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy are the Japanese so resilient?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat keeps them together is not just a shared love for their country, but the spirit of \u003Cem\u003Emuhibbah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. In the Arabic language, where it comes from, muhibbah (also \u003Cem\u003Emuhibah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) means love or goodwill. In Malaysia, it is that and much more. According to Dr Kamar Oniah Kamaruzaman, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Firep.iium.edu.my\u002Fprofile\u002F2025\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Escholar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and professor of religious studies, muhibbah in Malaysia is about togetherness, or “understanding, caring, empathy and kinship”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen Malaysia gained independence from Britain in 1957, the leaders decided to adopt muhibbah as the unifying spirit of this new country to ensure there would be no tension between the various ethnic and religious groups. For example, while the country is officially an Islamic state, everyone has the right to follow their religious beliefs as well as speak their own languages. Even now, I see \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thestar.com.my\u002Fnews\u002Fnation\u002F2019\u002F10\u002F25\u002Fbring-back-the-spirit-of-039muhibbah039-says-lee-lam-thye\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elocal newspaper articles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in which politicians call upon this word as a reminder to continue with peaceful coexistence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Our \u003Cem\u003Emamak\u003C\u002Fem\u003E stalls are the perfect example of muhibbah,” said Salwah Shukor, a Kuala Lumpur resident, explaining how practically everyone eats at the fresh food restaurants run by Muslims from South India that serve cheap halal food to satisfy diverse palates. There is an easy camaraderie among mamak customers, whether their meal is a local Malay dish tossed with Chinese sauces, or a sizzling-hot \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201026-dosa-indias-wholesome-fast-food-obsession\"\u003ESouth Indian dosa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (called \u003Cem\u003Ethosai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E here) with coconut chutney on the side.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHaving grown up with Indian family friends and Chinese classmates at school, Shukor insists that it is impossible to stay isolated within one’s own community in Malaysia. “The three communities have their own strengths and weaknesses, we have learned to use them to our collective advantage and we are all better as the sum of all parts,” she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, Kamaruzaman insists that muhibbah does not mean tolerance: “To just tolerate is not really a nice feeling, it is condescending. Muhibbah is the opposite of tolerance, it means acceptance.” She also cites mamaks as an example, saying, “You can find \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191111-where-is-malaysias-national-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enasi lemak\u003C\u002Fa\u003Ethere (a Malay dish of fried rice), as well as \u003Cem\u003Eroti canai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a flatbread and curry dish of Indian origin) and \u003Cem\u003Ecendol\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a South-East Asian dessert of coconut milk, jelly noodles and shaved ice) – nobody questions where this or that dish comes from, India or China? They are all Malay cuisine now.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWriter and academic Dipika Mukherjee, who grew up in Malaysia and currently lives in the US, affirms that her experience has been all about embracing her various identities. “I could wear shorts and walk to a mamak for breakfast, and then travel on the bus wearing a sari to visit my Indian family – in either case, nobody would look at me strangely like I am in costume. Here in the US, everyone has to become homogenised into a single white identity, wearing and eating what everyone else does, but not so in Malaysia.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMalaysia’s muhibbah also means that the country’s festival calendar spreads through the year, beginning with the Chinese Lunar New Year celebrations right at the beginning; Hari Raya or Ramadan sometime in the middle; and Deepavali (another name for Diwali, the festival of lights) in the later months. And as I discovered to my pleasant surprise, there is still room for Christmas with main streets and shopping malls alike decked up with sparkly decorations and even fake snow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnother manifestation of this multiculturalism is the “open house” that Malaysians keep during festivals, where food and drinks (non-alcoholic, in the case of Muslim homes) are laid out every evening to welcome friends, relatives and even strangers. “It used to be only Malays celebrating Hari Raya with an open house, but many Indians now do it at Deepavali, and occasionally even the Chinese for their new year,” Shukor said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It is impossible to stay isolated within one’s own community in Malaysia","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENot surprisingly, the streets ring with the official language of Malay as well as Mandarin, Hokkien, Cantonese and Hainanese, and Tamil, Hindi, Gujarati and Punjabi, among other Indian languages. In fact, my Malaysian friends take great pride in a unique concept called Bahasa Rojak, meaning mixture of languages (after rojak, a local salad with often contrasting textures and flavours), often lapsing into a Malay phrase or a dismayed “Aiyyo!” in Tamil in the middle of English conversations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBahasa Rojak came into existence in the early 15th Century, as did the concept of muhibbah itself. Mukherjee explained that Malacca (and other port towns like Kedah) was an important trading hub on the spice route, and for the sake of commerce, the local governments were always accepting of new languages and cultures. “Traditionally, migratory routes were never policed in the same way as mainstream cities, and in Malacca too, it was easy for communities to intermingle, for instance, through business transactions and even marriages,” she said. The conversational pidgin adopted by traders to communicate with each other lingers on as easy code-switching among Malaysians. Add to this intermarriage among communities, and contemporary Malaysia’s multicultural DNA was created.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlong with this attitude of acceptance, Malaysia also offers economic attractions like affordable housing and healthcare, making it one of the top \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nst.com.my\u002Fbusiness\u002F2019\u002F01\u002F446462\u002Fmalaysia-among-top-5-destination-retirement-survey-showed\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epreferred retirement destinations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E across the world, thus further deepening the country's multiculturalism. Of course, nowhere is perfect all the time. What began in the 1980s as affirmative action for the Bumiputeras is now a fraught situation, with the right-wing ideology of Malay supremacy (known as \u003Cem\u003EKetuanan Melayu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) occasionally rearing its head. However, that largely remains a politically motivated stance to win the confidence of the majority Malay community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat I have seen since I moved here is an acceptance of others’ weaknesses or quirks with a fond smile and an indulgent shake of the head. Shukor told me, tongue-in-cheek, “My Chinese classmates forced me to be competitive, because they were always aiming to be at the top; and at the same time, from my Tamil friends, I learned to relax and take things easy.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd to mirror the easy-going attitude of Malaysians, Bahasa abounds with English words simplified into its most basic phonetic form – \u003Cem\u003Eminit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for minute, \u003Cem\u003Ebiskut\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for biscuit, \u003Cem\u003Emesej\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for message, \u003Cem\u003Emotosikal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for motorcycle, and so on. After all, why complicate things when an easier option is available? In Malaysia, muhibbah is the ingredient that brings together individual components into an attractive, welcoming composite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-03-09T20:38:13Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Malaysia’s harmonious approach to life","headlineShort":"Is this Asia’s most harmonious nation?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While Malaysia generally stays under the radar, it is one of Asia’s most friendly and tolerant countries where its three major ethnic communities live mostly in harmony.","summaryShort":"It is one of the continent's most friendly and tolerant countries","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-03-08T20:42:53.232458Z","entity":"article","guid":"d7957926-68cb-47a3-b7cf-d690f1a6a30e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:04:44.381099Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135643},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink","_id":"61d4b7a345ceed42ce36b0c1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmatt-stirn"],"bodyIntro":"Mixing Indian, Chinese and British influences, teh tarik embodies Malaysia in a glass and has long helped bring the diverse nation together.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn arc of piping-hot tea streamed high above my head as the waiter poured the frothy concoction from one tin cup to another, increasing the distance with each pass. In an act that seemingly defied physics, he angled the stream further over my table and channelled the miniature waterfall flawlessly into my glass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELooking up from the tableside spectacle across the smoky room, I noticed the other diners around me: a young Indian family returning from the temple across the street; a meeting of sleek-looking bankers hunched over spreadsheets; Muslim students wearing traditional \u003Cem\u003Esongkok\u003C\u002Fem\u003E hats; and a few uniformed street cleaners taking a break from their morning work. It was as if a microcosm of Malaysia was summoned here, drawn by the allure of this bubbly drink.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bbly3q"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETeh tarik\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or \"pulled tea\" in Malay, is commonly drunk in Southeast Asia, but it's the unofficial national drink of Malaysia, where it was invented. It's a relatively simple mixture of strong black tea, condensed milk and ample sugar, and if you wander through any Malaysian city at any time of day, you'll spot locals of all backgrounds crowded around plastic tables outdoors, sipping mugs of the mocha-coloured drink while chatting about anything and everything.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach family-run stall has their own closely guarded recipe, and the quality of teh tarik is measured by its \"pull\", a theatrical display that aerates the liquid, enhances its deep flavour and helps it develop its quintessential froth that sets it apart from any other tea. Whoever can master this feat becomes a local celebrity with a devout following.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Teh tarik is something that can connect people from different races, cultures and religions","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile its sweet, earthy taste is reason enough for teh tarik's popularity, its cultural significance runs much deeper, and the drink is essentially a metaphor for the country's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estrong sense of tolerance and diversity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Malaysia, we have had many years to familiarise ourselves with living in a multicultural society,\" said Salma Nasution Khoo, an author and social activist from Penang. \"[Despite our differences] everyone is aware of the importance of reverting to a state of equilibrium and mutual respect.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bblvxl"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust as Malaysia is a cultural melting pot of indigenous Malay, Chinese, British and South Indian influences, teh tarik is a liquid fusion of its cultures and customs. Black tea was first introduced by the Chinese in the 1830s; the craft of pulling was developed by South Indian street cooks after 1850, and milk and sugar were introduced nearly 100 years later during the end of British colonialism (1867-1957). Because many of the country's cultures contributed to the creation of teh tarik, most Malaysians, regardless of ethnicity, feel attached to it today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Teh tarik is something that can connect people from different races, cultures and religions,\" said Mohd Azmi, a cartoonist, author and ex tea puller from George Town. \"We can all still sit together in one place, have the same drink and briefly ignore our differences.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI first heard about this tea while in Singapore with Khim Fam, a close friend from Kuala Lumpur. While eating at a Malaysian food stall, he handed me a cup of teh tarik, exclaiming, \"This is my entire country in one glass.\" Perhaps it was my training as an anthropologist, or just my body craving the sugar, but as Fam described the history of the tea, I was enamoured and knew that I needed to learn – and taste – more. A few months later, we sat in the front seats of Fam's car, bouncing down a jungle-covered highway on the start of a 10-day road trip across Malaysia following the trail of teh tarik and its important place in the nation's history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOur journey began in the coastal city of Malacca, known for its bustling night markets and brightly painted buildings overlooking the Malacca Straight. It was near here that the Portuguese colonised the region 1511, followed by the Dutch in 1641 and eventually the British, who took control in 1824. In addition to subjugating local Malays, each newcomer also contributed to a butterfly effect of cultural exchange that would eventually shape the country we see today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bblvwh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInterestingly, the origins of Malaysian tea and the invention of teh tarik find their roots in the rubber industry. In 1877, the director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nparks.gov.sg\u002Fsbg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESingapore Botanic Garden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Henry Nicholas Ridley, imported the first rubber tree from Brazil and British Malaya quickly became the world's largest producer of rubber, relying on imported labour from China and South India to manage tens of thousands of trees. These South Indian immigrants, mostly from Chennai, brought with them a lively enterprise of selling pulled chai, which at the time, was served without milk and made from Chinese black tea. As the Indian-spiced tea became increasingly popular among rubber plantation workers, factory chai stands evolved from a place to find a quick drink to a refuge where vendors, known as \u003Cem\u003Emamaks\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"uncle\" in Tamil), welcomed tired labourers to relax and talk amongst friends. Here, the first hints of teh tarik had begun to simmer, but it would be decades before the next piece of teh tarik's origin story began to brew in the mountainous rainforest of central Malaysia. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter Malacca, we drove north into the mountains of the Cameron Highlands and the landscape changed. Flat fields of oil palms gave way to dense tropical jungle where batik-style bamboo houses peeked out of the foliage and rusty road signs warned of tigers in the area. Suddenly our view transformed as tropical ferns were replaced by fields of perfectly manicured tea bushes. As we drove through small villages of English Tudor-style houses and shops, the British influence across the highlands was unmistakable. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210118-why-noodles-are-malaysias-most-famous-street-food\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMalaysia's humble 'king of noodles'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYaupon: The rebirth of America's forgotten tea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210901-putrajaya-the-capital-city-youve-never-heard-of\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPutrajaya: The capital city you've never heard of\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200630-why-are-the-japanese-so-resilient\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFifty years after South Indian merchants first began hawking tea at Malaysian rubber factories, British-born businessman Archibald Russell discovered that the highlands of Central Malaysia were a perfect environment for growing tea. Russell imported plants from China and founded the first Malayan tea plantation in the late 1920s. Malayan tea production rapidly expanded to serve the international market, even withstanding a bloody guerrilla campaign in the region during World War Two. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the area rebuilt its economy after the end of Japanese occupation in 1945, demand for fine Malayan tea was so high that local chai sellers could no longer afford to buy the high-grade leaves from the nearby plantations. They turned to \u003Cem\u003Esarabat, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe lowest quality dust and fragments left over from processing, which was much more affordable but had an astringent taste. Adopting the British practice of adding milk and sugar to their brew, South Indian merchants turned to condensed milk to mask the tea's bitterness. Out of desperation and creativity, teh tarik was born. Next, it needed somewhere to grow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bblw47"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe seaside city of George Town, a historical trading port and the largest city on Penang Island, is considered by many Malaysians to be where teh tarik exploded in popularity shortly after World War Two. Strolling through its streets is like a whistle-stop tour of Malaysia itself: towering minarets sit next to brightly painted Hindu statues that sit opposite Buddhist temples. It's a cohesive jumble of diversity, and the perfect place for a drink born from multiculturalism to thrive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Teh tarik is taken very seriously here,\" said Fam, as we drove over the bridge connecting the mainland to Penang. \"If Malaysia is its home, this is its heart.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the city is arguably the best place to sample the tea, and it can be tasted at some of the country's most renowned mamak stalls and roti shops, like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FHeritage-Transfer-Road-Roti-Canai-1118587961632671\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoti Canai Transfer Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fwatch\u002F?ref=search&v=646812010031438&external_log_id=a5dd93f1-e960-4a2a-8067-5f081b475759&q=Roti%20Canai%20Jalan%20Argyll\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoti Canai Jalan Argyll\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FPiala.TTAM.Battle.of.Teh.Tarik\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMalaysia's only tea-pulling competition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which was originally born in Penang and now attracts thousands of spectators to the island and other rotating venues each year. As we drove into the Little India neighbourhood near Queen, Chulia and Market streets, I could see tea being majestically pulled on every street corner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bblwb1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the story of teh tarik may culminate in the cafes and stalls of George Town today, its story and impact on Malaysian culture is far from over. The drink has recently experienced a new wave of popularity as a symbol for navigating conflict. Stemming from its historical ability to unify disparate groups, organisations throughout Malaysia have begun hosting \"Teh tarik sessions\" in which participants identify common ground and embrace diversity to discuss important issues – much as they would in mamak stalls. The meetings have since been utilised by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fevenesis.com\u002Fonline-events\u002Fevent\u002Fopen-teh-tarik-session-empowering-young-minds-through-leadership\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eschools\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and nonprofits to facilitate conversations among students, and even by the national government \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thestar.com.my\u002Fnews\u002Fnation\u002F2021\u002F11\u002F30\u002Fresolve-differences-with-deputy-minister-over-teh-tarik-session-azalina-tells-mp\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eto resolve political impasses\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Multiculturalism is the future of all cities and countries,\" said Khoo, \"and in the words of anthropologist AB Shamsul, this is an era of 'talk conflict and walk cohesion'.\" In other words, people must learn to get along in order to cope with the changing world, and teh tarik might just be able to show us how.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince my return from Malaysia, I have often found myself reminiscing about the important lessons that teh tarik can teach. When the news gets depressing or the state of global affairs seems too polarised to reconcile, I find comfort in opening my carefully horded bag of Malaysian black tea and pouring a sweet cup of the soothing beverage. While I've never quite mastered the pull, I can still create a few encouraging bubbles, which remind me that sometimes all it takes is one small commonality and a spoonful of condensed milk to bring people back together.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-05T10:08:56Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Teh tarik: Malaysia's frothy 'national drink'","headlineShort":"The frothy drink that unified a nation","image":["p0bblssb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"3.1390","longitude":"101.6869","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bblssb"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210223-yaupon-the-rebirth-of-americas-forgotten-tea","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170823-the-true-story-behind-englands-tea-obsession","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210308-malaysias-harmonious-approach-to-life"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Mixing Indian, Chinese and British influences, teh tarik embodies Malaysia in a glass and has long helped bring the diverse nation together.","summaryShort":"Pouring it is a theatrical, gravity-defying display","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-01-04T21:09:48.049814Z","entity":"article","guid":"7fafffbc-2e86-44b1-a3c5-60b19dccc231","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink","modifiedDateTime":"2022-01-04T21:29:58.954906Z","project":"travel","slug":"20220104-teh-tarik-malaysias-frothy-national-drink","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmalaysia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_malaysia_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135643},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule","_id":"6187dd6745ceed205f4e8682","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Once the rural retreat of a powerboat-racing countess, this uninhabited isle is now a slow-travel paradise that's home to Scotland's most exotic mammal.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere is no graceful way to exit a tiny inflatable vessel as it crashes against the shoreline in an unexpected seiche. With my rucksack dashed over one shoulder and one leg cocked over the dank bow, I clumsily hopped out and plonked my right boot straight into Loch Lomond’s bone-chilling water. My left boot soon followed, thudding into the swampy grass on the remote island of Inchconnachan, the former summertime playground of one Fiona Bryde Gore (née Colquhoun), Countess of Arran – and home to Scotland's only colony of wallabies. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter being enamoured by Inchconnachan for years, I had finally arrived on this uninhabited, 103-acre island in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lochlomond-trossachs.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELoch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; albeit in far less style than a certain Lady Arran would have done. A member of the famous Clan Colquhoun – that, under \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lussestates.co.uk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELuss Estates\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, still own several islands and a stretch of the mainland on the west of Loch Lomond – Fiona Colquhoun fell in love with this hidden oasis and ordered a timber-framed holiday home, boathouse and pier for her personal use. All three of these are now derelict; the latter explaining my clumsy entrance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EColquhoun, born in 1918, grew up on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=feLT7Btuqpc\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebonnie banks o’ Loch Lomond\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and loved exploring the islands surrounding her childhood home at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fclankilpatrick.com\u002Fcolquhoun\u002Frossdhu.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERossdhu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, on the western shore of Loch Lomond. She often returned to Inchconnachan – meaning \"The Colquhoun's Island\" in Scottish Gaelic – over other nearby isles of Inchtavannach, Inchmoan and Inchcruin, due to its mid-loch location and secluded bays that made it ideal for powerboating.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"She would eventually earn the nickname 'the fastest granny on water'","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter taking part in a powerboat speed trial aboard the racing boat \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britishpathe.com\u002Fvideo\u002Fmiss-england-iii\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMiss England III\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Loch Lomond at the age of 13, Colquhoun's need for speed gathered pace. She would eventually earn the nickname \"the fastest granny on water\". And after becoming the first woman to travel faster than 100mph on water by hitting a blistering 103mph on Lake Windermere in 1980, she was awarded the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.royalautomobileclub.co.uk\u002Fmotoring\u002Ftrophies-and-awards\u002Fthe-segrave-trophy\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eesteemed Segrave Trophy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is given to Britons demonstrating \"outstanding skill, courage and initiative on land, water and in the air\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"From all accounts, [Lady Arran] was a quirky character,\" said Carron Tobin, the former executive director at Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park. Today, Inchconnachan remains something of a testament to the countess' quirks. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA country being unified through hiking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201213-a-new-way-to-travel-across-the-us\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210504-the-plan-to-connect-every-british-town\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe plan to connect every British town\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210727-the-birthplace-of-the-us-vacation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe birthplace of the US vacation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter marrying Sir Arthur Gore, the 8th Earl of Arran, in 1937, Colquhoun became the Countess of Arran. At their home in Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, Gore's penchant for keeping non-native animals, such as llamas, alpacas and wallabies, was well-documented. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I understand she introduced wallabies to the island shortly after World War Two, having kept them at her home in England,\" Tobin said. \"I believe there are around 50 to 60 still living on the island today. Inchconnachan is also home to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fscottishwildlifetrust.org.uk\u002Fspecies\u002Fcapercaillie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecapercaillie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an endangered Scottish woodland grouse. It is disputed, but they seem happy cohabiting with the wallabies.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EConsidered the most exotic animal species in Scotland, Inchconnachan's red-necked wallabies are a smaller relative of kangaroos. Though they're native to the temperate reaches of eastern Australia and Tasmania, the wallabies seem to have developed a particular fondness for Inchconnachan's moody climate over the years, and are even known to hop across the frozen loch and frolic in the nearby woodlands during severe winters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike Colquhoun (who passed away in 2013) and her pouched pets, I, too, have a particular fondness for Loch Lomond and have spent countless days exploring it by foot and boat over the years. The largest lake in Scotland, Lomond is laced with 22 islands and 27 islets, mostly covered in dense woodland. It's those islands, and specifically Inchconnachan, that had long piqued my interest. I was always keen to find out what – or who – was hopping around on these far-flung arboreous isles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Scotland is one of just a handful of countries in the world where wild camping is legal","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Lady Colquhoun used Inchconnachan to fuel her speed demon dreams, these days it – and most islands on Loch Lomond – is inaccessible by ferry or public boat. Instead, slow-travelling adventure seekers like myself can hire a kayak, canoe or paddleboard from the nearby village of Luss and paddle 1km across the usually calm waters to the island. Once there, another adventure awaits. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFew travellers may realise that, like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fsearch?q=sweden+law+of+wanderlust&rlz=1C5GCEM_enUS910US910&oq=sweden+law+of+wanderlust&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i22i30.2707j1j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESweden's famed law of wanderlust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Scotland is one of just a handful of countries in the world (and the only country in the UK) where \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitscotland.com\u002Faccommodation\u002Fcaravan-camping\u002Fwild-camping\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewild camping\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is legal. And while certain parts of the Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park are protected by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lochlomond-trossachs.org\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fcamping\u002Fcampingbyelaws\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewild camping byelaws\u003C\u002Fa\u003E between March and September, thanks to Scotland's 2003 Land Reform Act, anyone is free to camp on most unenclosed land throughout the country – including on Inchconnachan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter being owned by the Clan Colquhoun since the 14th Century, Scotland's uninhabited \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-scotland-glasgow-west-53345309\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewallaby island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" made headlines in July 2020 when it was put up for sale. It eventually sold in March 2021, but despite its new ownership and status as a private island, Scotland's wild camping access rights still apply – though it's important to travel responsibly. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe key thing, says Tobin, is \"to leave no trace, and to take back whatever you brought over\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you're planning a wild camping trip in Scotland, be sure to familiarise yourself with The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.outdooraccess-scotland.scot\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScottish Outdoor Access Code\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to abide by the country's leave-no-trace policy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Wild camping in Scotland","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESo, there I was, ambling around the island's soaked marshes searching for somewhere to camp. I decided on the west shore facing The Narrows, a river-like snaking stretch of calm water between Inchconnachan and Inchtavannach whose shelter from prevailing winds provides quietude. As the rain showers passed and I pitched my tent, I soon realised I had landed a suntrap – one that was a short stroll from the countess' holiday lodge. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the long-abandoned retreat resembles little more than a decaying squat, with its rotting floorboards, sodden mattresses, rusty oven and shattered bathtub all in situ. The island's charms lay elsewhere, however.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInchconnachan is fairly flat, and its handful trails lead to untouched beaches, age-old conifers and oaks (making it a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.scot\u002Fprofessional-advice\u002Fprotected-areas-and-species\u002Fprotected-areas\u002Fnational-designations\u002Fsites-special-scientific-interest-sssis\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESite of Special Scientific Interest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Scotland) and elevated lake views from the island's humble 50m summit. Sharp-eyed visitors should also look upwards to spot a pair of nesting sea eagles, which \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-scotland-57428986\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecently returned to the area\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for the first time in more than a century. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs night began to fall, I followed a trail flanked by knee-height bilberry bushes and burnt orange bracken to a sandy beach on the island's north end, which provides blissful, uninterrupted views of one of Scotland's most popular munros, Ben Lomond.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"All of a sudden, I heard something stirring beneath the trees","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThen, all of a sudden, I heard something stirring beneath the trees. I slowly turned around, torch-in-hand, to see if Scotland's rarest of beasts had appeared. It had not, so I carried on down the trail. After a few more minutes, a red-necked marsupial no taller than 50cm hopped across my path, a mere few metres away, before acknowledging my company and scurrying away. A brief, but beautiful, encounter. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs tempting as it was to sleep under the stars, the weather soon turned and reminded me that I was positively in Scotland in October. I left the solitude of the beach for my sheltered tent on other side of the island, from where I rustled up a portable stove-cooked chilli dinner and fell asleep to the sound of squawking birds, chattering ducks and – yes – frolicking wallabies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt 05:45, I was awoken by the hammering rain against the canvas and the sound of what I thought was a bellowing deer stag. I unzipped my tent, cautiously clambered outside and sat as the sun slowly appeared above the Luss Hills to the west. My unexpected alarm was indeed a red stag by the hillside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the rain relented and the mist began to clear, I spotted something in the water. What appeared to be a doe was swimming across The Narrows, possibly beckoned by the call of her new mate. In all my years exploring the Loch, this was the epitome of Scottish scenic splendour. I could see why Lady Arran kept coming back.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-11-08T14:05:44Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Inchconnachan: The British island where wallabies rule","headlineShort":"Britain's abandoned 'outback' island","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"56.0900","longitude":"4.6150","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Once the rural retreat of a powerboat-racing countess, this uninhabited isle is now a slow-travel paradise that's home to Scotland's most exotic mammal.","summaryShort":"Adventure-seekers can camp on the isle with Scotland's most exotic mammal","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-11-07T14:06:24.20897Z","entity":"article","guid":"0874f707-9bb9-4d19-a2f0-898bcb2cb706","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule","modifiedDateTime":"2021-11-10T14:34:14.004986Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135644},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara","_id":"6183c2a845ceed02d858a502","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Since 1963, Mauritania’s 2km-long Train du Desert has carried iron ore and brave passengers 704km across the Sahara Desert.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWrapping my Touareg scarf around my face to shield my eyes from the sand and dirt, I climbed the ladder, hoisted myself onto the lip of the freight wagon and surveyed the scene. An endless line of wagons stretched out to the horizon, rocking and swaying. To either side, a landscape of boundless sandy plains and low dunes was sliding past, pin-sharp in the limpid light of the Sahara. Figures sat atop the wagons ahead, facing into the wind, yelling to each other in Arabic above the deafening noise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne might imagine travelling through the Sahara by train to be a zen-like voyage. In some ways it is – but it is also an unforgiving and ceaseless assault on the body and senses. The booming and grinding; the constant tremors rippling through the body; the grit swirling through your hair in the hot breeze; the desert sun pricking your eyelids.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOpened in 1963, Mauritania’s Train du Desert operates a daily service from the port at Nouadhibou on the Atlantic coast to the iron ore mines in Zouerat in the country’s north-west. The full journey, which runs along the border of the disputed territory of Western Sahara, takes around 20 hours and covers a total distance of 704km. More than 2km long, the train is made up of three or four diesel locomotives, one passenger carriage and between 200 and 210 freight cars. When loaded on the westward journey to Nouadhibou, each car can carry up to 84 tons of iron ore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180305-the-freedom-railway-an-1860km-journey-across-africa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA 1,860km journey across Africa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180718-from-africa-to-tea-with-the-queen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFrom Africa to tea with the Queen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190516-a-journey-into-yangons-vibrant-daily-routine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Myanmar rail journey not to be missed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe train also carries passengers to and from distant desert communities, cutting up to 500km off the inconvenient journey by road, which involves a lengthy detour south to Nouakchott, Mauritania’s capital. Many Mauritanians choose – like my companion Mike and I had done – to forgo the overcrowded passenger carriage and ride “second-class” in the freight cars, free of charge. It is a noisy, dirty and dangerous journey: falls are common, and the temperature can reach well over 40C during the day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHardly strangers to discomfort, Mike and I had endured sweaty trains, rickety bunkhouses and hikes through mosquito-infested swamps in subarctic Russia. But this steel desert caravan was a new lesson in austerity – an empty, open-topped metal box, completely exposed to a constant elemental symphony of heat, wind and noise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“It’s one of the longest trains in the world,” my father would tell us at the dinner table. “Imagine travelling hundreds of miles into the Sahara desert in a cargo wagon, then getting off before dawn in the middle of the desert, praying you’ve got the right stop. Then, just as the sun’s coming up, a jeep comes over the brow of the hill.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a child, I was fascinated by the story of my parents’ journey on the iron ore train, a mysterious adventure that seemed incompatible with the world I knew. In 1971, they had sailed from the Canary Islands to a port in what is now Western Sahara, then travelled south down the coast into Mauritania. Somewhere along the way they heard it was possible to catch a freight train into the country’s austere interior, to settlements that were once stops on ancient Saharan trade routes. They disembarked roughly 400km inland at Choum, where a dirt road leads to the market town of Atar and the medieval holy city of Chinguetti.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe only visual record of their experience was a single Kodak slide, a relic of a pre-digital age in which every frame counted: figures in a sun-drenched freight car, peering over the rim into a sandy infinity. I never forgot that image, and often dreamt of riding the iron ore train myself one day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDecades later, I was sitting atop a steel wagon, rolling into the Sahara. Mike and I would attempt to retrace my parents’ journey by disembarking at Choum then going on to Atar and Chinguetti. For me this was to be a kind of homage to the spirit of my parents; the realisation of a childhood dream; the closing of a circle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Nouadhibou, a fortunate encounter prepared us for the realities of life aboard the train. Aiba, our hotel receptionist, turned out to be invaluable. His dark eyes brightened when we told him of our plans. “Ah, the train! I’ve travelled on it so many times,” he exclaimed. “My father works in the mines at Zouerat.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAiba gave us plastic bags and tape to cocoon our backpacks from the dirt and dust that would be swirling around us. Then he drove us to the station and ensured we boarded the wagon that would stop closest to our station. Given the length of the train and the tiny scale of the settlements where it stops, a traveller could end up walking more than a kilometre to reach the station on arrival if they choose their wagon unwisely.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere was an odd contradiction in passing through the vast spaces of the Sahara inside a windowless steel box just 8m by 4m. So whenever the wagon began to seem too claustrophobic, we would haul ourselves up the ladders in the corners and spend a while perched on the rim in our robes, watching the dunes and scrub scroll by.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELate in the afternoon, the train began to lose speed. The blinding oblong of sky above us had weakened in intensity as the winter sun slipped lower, and most of our wagon was now in shadow. Eventually the train came to a halt in the middle of a lonely plain, stretched out in a wide curve hundreds of wagons long.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPeople climbed down and began to congregate at the rear of the train, exchanging handshakes and greetings. Others hung back on the peripheries or watched silently from the windows of the dirt-streaked passenger carriage, an old European-built model with the inscription “Le Train du Desert” unfurling across it. It was a convivial scene that seemed oddly out of place, as if they were chatting in a theatre foyer during an intermission rather than travelling through the desert on a cargo train.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Imagine travelling hundreds of miles into the Sahara desert in a cargo wagon, then getting off before dawn in the middle of the desert, praying you’ve got the right stop","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAmong them were the traders occupying the wagons ahead of us; black Africans and Arabs alike, lean young men in leather jackets and sportswear. We had seen them at Nouadhibou, hauling overstuffed bags onto the train. Then there were older men, presumably Bidan Moors from the country’s upper caste, standing aloof in their billowing white and azure \u003Cem\u003Eboubou\u003C\u002Fem\u003E robes, their heads swaddled in Touareg headscarves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe motley composition of the group reflected the complex ethnic realities of Mauritania, a country that sits at the fault line between the Arab and Sub-Saharan worlds and truly belongs to neither. Life in this nation, which only outlawed slavery in 1981, continues to be governed by a strict caste system in which there is little social contact between the paler Bidan elite and the Haratin underclass, largely composed of Mauritanians of Berber and African descent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs I mingled with fellow passengers, the train’s role as an overland link between Nouadhibou and the remote desert communities of central Mauritania became ever clearer. Abdurahman, a young man with striking Moorish features and an intense gaze, informed me solemnly that he and his friends were travelling to Zouerat to look for work. An older man named Mohammed was on his way to visit his son in Atar, as he did several times a year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the sun sank, some walked out into the desert to pray, while others sprawled on the soft sand. Eventually a blast of the horn from the locomotive signalled that it was time to move on, and the passengers hastily sought the safety of the train, like sailors returning to their vessel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELater, as darkness enveloped the landscape and the air grew chilly, the train’s human cargo hunkered down in their wagons. Soon the sky above us was glittering with stars. Mike laid out a blanket in a part of the wagon that was free of dirt, then we slumped down and tried to sleep, wrapped in Berber robes. Later, shivering in the cold, we understood why this area was clear of dust – not only was it the cleanest spot, it was also the windiest. We swiftly relocated to the dirtiest corner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the middle of the night, tired of fruitless efforts to sleep, I sat up. The train was standing idle in the moonlight. A stillness seemed to have fallen across the world. Outside, the windows of the passenger carriage several wagons behind us were throwing an eerie halo of light into the darkened desert. In the distance, jagged black mountains rose incongruously out of the endless flat sands. I imagined my parents all those years ago, wondering anxiously if this was where they needed to disembark.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen a whoosh, a roar and several gigantic locomotives shot by in the other direction. Wagons heaped with dark hills of iron ore thundered past, bathed eerily in the glow of our passenger carriage. I picked out three figures, crouched around a charcoal heater; then herds of goats, standing motionless on the ore. Seconds later, the wagons were gone, leaving only clouds of slowly settling dust. Our train jolted to life again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAround 12 hours after leaving Nouadhibou, we shuddered to a halt in the frigid darkness at Choum. For a few seconds there was silence, then voices and torchlight. We peered over the lip of the wagon. Headlights were lazily swimming in the gloom below, and the sounds of urgent activity issued from the neighbouring wagons. Knowing we had only a few minutes, we hastily hauled our bags down the ladder to where an ancient Peugeot was waiting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA wrinkled face leaned out of the window: “Atar? Atar?” We gratefully tumbled in. Beside us, the wagons began to roll again, booming past us through the dust before vanishing into the night. The driver, who seemed to have mistaken us for locals in our robes, began chattering away in Arabic, but the gentle motion of the car soon lulled me to sleep.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn a guesthouse in Chinguetti the next evening, fronds of date palms whispering above us, my head still reverberated with the roar and rattle of rolling stock. I half-recalled fumbling with documents at police checkpoints in the darkness, wandering the dust-blown streets of Atar at dawn, stealing a couple of hours’ sleep on a carpet in the bare back room of a taxi garage, then bumping across a rocky wasteland in a creaking car, Mike dozing against the window.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EChinguetti was a place of fascinating dislocation, its ancient libraries and nameless streets collapsing slowly into piles of stones amid an endless sea of billowing golden dunes. Out of time, it was an elegiac picture of vanished glory, a place that was slowly forgetting itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd in the following days, as we languished here amid the ruins, the train that had brought us came to seem less and less real, as if the whole experience had just been the product of some feverish, chaotic dream, or perhaps an imaginary memory whose details were already beginning to blur imperceptibly with those of my parents’ journey all those years ago. But for almost a week, specks of iron ore dust continued to trickle from my ears.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-09-05T19:46:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"An exhilarating train journey across the Sahara","headlineShort":"The longest train in the world?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Since 1963, Mauritania’s 2km-long Train du Desert has carried iron ore and brave passengers 704km across the Sahara Desert.","summaryShort":"It is more than 2km long and covers a total distance of 704km","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2019-09-04T18:59:21.448659Z","entity":"article","guid":"49218a12-7c80-40aa-acd3-419661846444","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:20:26.545672Z","project":"travel","slug":"20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135644},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering","_id":"6183c23545ceed4e1c403846","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"To understand life at the top of the world, you only need to meet the Norwegians who live along the E69, the world’s northernmost highway.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENot long after Ingunn Utsi had created a fresh set of footprints to her cabin, snow began to fall across the top of the world. It covered her car in a downy layer of white and erased the faint track connecting her oceanfront cabin outside Repvåg, in northern Finnmark, to the E69, a ribbon of ice-covered tarmac at the ends of the Earth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAs the light faded to a bleak glimmer, the 69-year-old \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.nordnorge.com\u002Fen\u002Fsapmi\u002F?News=57\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESami\u003C\u002Fa\u003E artist peered out the window, seeing her connection to the outside world vanish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThere was a time when I was growing up when there were no roads here. Only boats. Life moved much slower then,\" Utsi said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ERunning 129km north from Olderfjord to Nordkapp on a finger of land at the top of Arctic Norway, the E69 is the world’s most northerly highway, a marvel of engineering along the coast of Western Europe’s northernmost peninsula. First proposed as early as 1908 by Landslaget for Reiselivet i Norge (the country’s fledgling national tourist association), yet only completed in 1999, the road is a brilliant contradiction, connecting a handful of remote and fragile fishing communities that have long proven they are capable of living without the outside world. For many, wooden boats continue to satisfy their needs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ETo drive the road today is to glimpse Norway’s wilderness at its rawest. Obsidian-black bluffs rise up over narrow sea inlets; mountains lurch into the windshield before giving way to vast plateaus pockmarked by dwarf birch; and violent storms frequently roll in from the intimidating Barents Sea. Come winter, the last stretch to Nordkapp and the abrupt cliffs of Knivskjellodden, Europe’s fabled northernmost point, becomes nearly impassable, only open for convoy driving. Without the highway, it’s easy for a first-time visitor to think that the villages along the route would be on the verge of disappearing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe creation of the E69 came about in the 1930s to counter a downturn in the fishing industry, which brooded on the horizon after Nordkapp fishermen lost control of exclusive concession rights. New sources of income for the fishermen had to be found and a mass meeting was held in 1934 in Honningsvåg, Nordkapp’s most populous village, with harbour bosses demanding the municipal council prioritise a national highway to solve the problem.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe theory was that locals could earn more netting tourists than from the Barents Sea. An almost-impossible road was the answer to their problems. Or so they hoped. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn Utsi’s garden, on the long summer days when the sun never sets, the artist sometimes gets a split-second flashback to when she was young and the prospect of such a road was but a dream.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E“Was it an isolated community back then? It depends on what you think a community should be,” she said. “Nordkapp is isolated compared to big cities, but human beings are great adapters and can get used to anything. For me this is completely normal.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ELiving this far north has many benefits, Utsi explained, particularly for a visual artist. In 1982, she returned from Oslo to her birth house in Repvåg and ever since has been working as a sculptor, inspired by Nordkapp’s extreme realms of weather and light. She has worked with dwarf birch and turned driftwood into celebrated Sami art, but her current project is more ambitious. Using plexiglass, she is trying to recreate the wind. “You cannot touch it, but you can feel it in all aspects of life here,” she said. “Along with the water, it pervades everything we do.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ESuch elemental forces of ice, wind and ocean haven’t always made for an easy life – and visitors can forget just how recently modernity arrived in this frozen wilderness. The final 14km section of road to Nordkapp, for example, was built in 1956. Though it was conceived as a summer excursion road for tourists arriving by cruise ship, it now remains in use year round, despite the whims of the weather and days when the outpost sees but a solitary visitor. One of the very last stretches, a deep sea tunnel that connects the island of Magerøya to the Porsanger Peninsula, meanwhile, only opened in 1999.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhile the road’s evolution brought with it opportunity, the dyed-in-the-wool fishing industry on which so many depend has taken a different path. Over the past decade, according to locals, the international fleet has gradually disappeared, in part a reaction to a government mandate to let fish stocks rejuvenate. In tandem, automation has increased, crews have whittled in size and the fish processing industry has moved to China. Nowadays, the just-landed catch is iced and shipped fresh to Asia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EStill, the fishing industry continues apace – the annual king crab harvest is among northern Europe’s largest, according to local fishermen – and today the harbour is crowded with bumper-to-bumper tugs and trawlers. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs long as your line is baited, there is always hope,\" says a local proverb.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EDespite fishing continuing to shape life along the seaboard, art unexpectedly flourishes on the peninsula. In the compact fishing village of Kamøyvær (population 58 people, six dogs, five cats), 63km further north from Repvåg, German artist Eva Schmutterer runs \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.evart.no\u002Flocations_EN.html#msg-box5-3z\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Gallery East of the Sun\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And like Utsi, she sources her materials in a rather unusual way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E“It’s impossible to get supplies here,” she said, while finishing her latest Northern Lights collage. “I use old magazines and unwanted brochures, which the entire community collects and donates. It helps the recycling effort, plus the winter is long so I have plenty of time to search for the right colour or shade.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAlthough the availability of art goods is limited – as well as food, drink and almost everything else, for that matter – Schmutterer believes the lack of choice engenders self-reliance. People live day to day as they did more than century ago, she explained, and learn to cope with what they have. “The road is our lifeline, our portal to another world,” she said. “But if you depend on it you won’t survive. This isn’t a limitation. It’s a freedom.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWeather dictates life along the E69. You can only do things here when nature lets you,\" Schmutterer said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ENature is often in the thoughts of those who live in Honningsvåg, the E69’s main fishing port, often referred to (though readily debated) as the northernmost town in the world. Standing in the centre, all the usual Norwegian props are in place: red, yellow and blue clapboard cabins; giant king crab fishing boats; a steel-grey harbour with trawlers. Posses of restless gulls and guillemots wheel overhead.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut this offers only one window onto life here. For Honningsvåg is equally concerned not with just cod in winter, wild salmon in spring, coalfish (as known as pollock) in summer and haddock in autumn, but with the artistic and the cinematic. If there’s a reason for coming this far north, for many it’s to seek inspiration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENorwegian feature film director Knut Erik Jensen’s imagination was sparked as a child seeing the trawlers anchor in Honningsvåg.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I used to say I was the only idiot in Norway who has stayed this far north their entire career,” he said. “All my films have been shot in Nordkapp and I’ve always taken inspiration from the sailors who have come and gone, whether they’re from Portugal, Spain or farther afield. If you come from Honningsvåg, you’ve seen quite a lot of the world without ever leaving.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESometimes I think people who live in a big town are far more isolated than I am,\" Knut Erik Jensen said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBeyond the pines, beyond the trawlers, beyond even the reindeer that congregate each summer, lies Nordkapp and the end of the E69. Where the road finally gives way to ocean, the long winter mixes all shades of darkness like watercolour, while in summer the sun lingers for months. At its tip lies Nordkapphallen, located at 71°10’ 21, with a visitor centre, an underground chapel and a museum dedicated to King Rama V, then sovereign ruler of Siam, who curiously visited by boat in 1907.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOutside, the windblown plateau might seem nerve-prickling for some, situated 307m above the swirling black waters of the Barents Sea, but it’s the very thing that has drawn people here for centuries. In times past, the massive cliffs marked the end of the world for explorers. But today Nordkapp teaches its visitors the value of something most can no longer grasp: the unpredictability of nature – especially in winter, when the land lies barren and the fall of white on white embodies the ideal of this far northern road that inspires so many.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering-25"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-01-22T21:52:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Route E69: Norway’s icy marvel of engineering","headlineShort":"Norway’s icy marvel of engineering","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"To understand life at the top of the world, you only need to meet the Norwegians who live along the E69, the world’s northernmost highway.","summaryShort":"Especially in winter, this far northern road inspires so many","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:23:26.768098Z","entity":"article","guid":"d0de97ec-976f-4223-b5d4-7ea61d4f4818","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering","modifiedDateTime":"2021-11-18T11:40:31.196268Z","project":"travel","slug":"20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135644},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road","_id":"61b8cd4045ceed06175ebf74","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsimon-heptinstall"],"bodyIntro":"Built by the Romans and considered one of Britain's most \"outrageous\" roads, it's filled with sharp hairpin turns and is the width of a bridleway.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf I'd steered hard around the hairpin bend, I'd have driven straight into a frightening gradient of crumbling road, rearing up like a tidal wave in front of me. Rainwater poured down the middle of the rough carriageway like a mountain stream. I reached to change gear and realised I was already in first. Just then, a nonchalant sheep strolled out in front of me, causing me to slam on the brakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitcumbria.com\u002Fwc\u002Fhardknott-pass\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHardknott Pass\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in England's north-west Lake District is, technically, the most direct route from the central Lake District to West Cumbria, but it is so steep and difficult that outsiders are often warned to take hour-long detours to avoid braving its twisting, single-track slalom up a mountainside. It was described as one of Britain's \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fuk-news\u002Fthe-northerner\u002F2014\u002Fjul\u002F15\u002Fin-praise-of-britains-two-most-outrageous-roads-wrynose-and-hardknott-passes\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emost outrageous roads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" by The Guardian, and locals are full of tales of cars suffering brake failures, drivers freezing with the challenge and of skids and misjudgements causing cars to plunge off the narrow carriageway. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis leaves some asking: should this extraordinary 13-mile stretch between the towns of Boot and Ambleside be closed to traffic – or celebrated as a national treasure?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bb19js"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEach year, visitors set off westwards from genteel tearooms in the tourist hub of Ambleside, hoping for a pretty potter through the England's largest national park, the Unesco-inscribed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lakedistrict.gov.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELake District\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Instead, they run straight into the most challenging stretch of road available to British drivers; a sequence of steep switchbacks climbing a bleak mountainside. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAppropriately you'll find this \"most outrageous\" of roads snaking around England's highest peak (Scafell Pike) and deepest lake (Wastwater) in the mountainous wild west of the Lake District. Many consider Hardknott a hazard. \"We put guests off from coming over Hardknott Pass,\" said local holiday-home owner Greg Poole, matter-of-factly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iamroadsmart.com\u002F\"\u003EInstitute of Advanced Motorists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E' spokeswoman Heather Butcher said: \"Depending on the rider or driver's experience, it could be one to avoid. We don't recommend putting yourself or others in danger… You can read reviews online from various sources confirming that it's a challenging road, a thrill, etcetera, but we would advise all riders and drivers to approach roads like this with caution.\" And Neil Graham, a communications officer for the Cumbria Police added, \"People shouldn't seek out the road to challenge themselves.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet, to others, this daunting route is a landmark to be celebrated; a challenge to be attempted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bb19vx"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOwner of nearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.muncaster.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuncaster Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Peter Frost-Pennington, has driven Hardknott hundreds of times and calls it \"one of the most exciting and incredible roads to drive, cycle or walk in the whole world. It should be on everyone's bucket lists.\" And while Poole may warn his holiday guests away, he chooses to take the route himself, saying, \"I love the drive. It's exciting, challenging, beautiful, sometimes scary but never boring – you won't fall asleep at the wheel for sure.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat is this notorious stretch actually like to drive? As Hardknott and its preamble, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitcumbria.com\u002Famb\u002Fwrynose-pass\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWrynose Pass\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, climb from the gentle lakeside Greenburn Beck, signs warn drivers: \"Narrow road. Severe bends\". But if you've come this far, there's no alternative route or turning back. You're about to face a sequence of ridiculous hairpins the width of a bridleway, a constantly disintegrating road surface and unguarded drops plummeting hundreds of feet down the mountainside towards rough moorland, rocks and scree. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoute E69: Norway's icy marvel of engineering\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E'Captain' Gallagher: The legend of Ireland's 'Highwaymen'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210510-the-worlds-loneliest-bus-route\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's lonelinest bus route\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHardknott's hardest section, towards the top, lasts less than a couple of miles but rises 1,037ft. A few hairpins reach 25% gradient, and the final cliff is a breath-taking 33%. The \"Unsuitable for caravans\" sign is a humorous understatement. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese gradients are steeper than most alpine routes and exceed the famous extremes of the Tour de France, Giro d'Italia and Europe's other grand cycling tours. The fitness of the few elite cyclists who manage to scale the pass is put into perspective by a 2019 Eurosport documentary called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eurosport.com\u002Fcycling\u002Fcycling-feature-why-hardknott-pass-was-the-ultimate-test-for-the-average-man_sto7718062\u002Fstory.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEngland's Toughest Climb\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. An \"average\" cyclist was given a strict six-week expert training regime as preparation for tackling Hardknott. To the programme maker's horror, he still failed to make it up the pass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bb1d0w"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy first experience of the Hardknott Pass was as a passenger alongside a super-confident team from the Royal Air Force. We were heading for Scafell Pike as part of the Three Peaks Challenge, in which participants attempt to climb the highest peaks in England, Scotland and Wales in 24 hours. Like many unsuspecting tourists, we were shocked to discover the true nature of the road, and we hit the hairpins amid torrents of water in the dark early hours of a stormy morning. The driving officer struggled to cope and the engine screamed as the wheels repeatedly lost traction. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe made it up, amid a tsunami of special force swear words. The driver stayed in the car to recover while we scaled the peak. Afterwards, he took the longer route back. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMy second visit was with an elderly businessman in his proud new Jaguar. I'd warned him about the descent but was overruled. Surely, he stated, his gleaming Jag could cope with a little Cumbrian slope. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWithin seconds of cresting the brim of the pass, however, he was tackling a sort of road he had never seen before. His wide, softly sprung luxury saloon was completely inappropriate. Red-faced and gasping, he pulled onto a rocky verge to regain breath. We proceeded to the foot of the hill at single-digit miles per hour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bb1cdl"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThen a few years ago, I set out to tackle the pass in my own car – a humble 20-year-old Volvo. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYes, at times it felt like I might have toppled over backwards, but if your car is 100%, the weather is fine and you get your revs and gearchanges right, I found it to be completely possible. (My main tip: even when the road seems to rise like a wave in front of you, don't hesitate. A missed gear change can have you rolling back off the carriageway.) \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn this age of smart motorways and self-driving cars, for driving-lovers like myself, Hardknott represents a flashback to a time when you had to concentrate on the road as if your life depended on it (it does) and wonder if your car will make it (it might not). Unlike the vast majority of Britain's roads, this short track offers a memorable driving experience every time. It's England's ultimate motoring anachronism. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, the little road has a long, colourful history. The original route was laid by the Romans around 110 AD and led to a dramatic stronghold at the top of the pass known today as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.english-heritage.org.uk\u002Fvisit\u002Fplaces\u002Fhardknott-roman-fort\u002F?utm_source=Google%20Business&utm_campaign=Local%20Listings&utm_medium=Google%20Business%20Profiles&utm_content=hardknott%20roman%20fort&utm_source=Google%20Business&utm_campaign=Local%20Listings&utm_medium=Google%20Business%20Profiles&utm_content=hardknott%20roman%20fort\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHardknott Fort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The remaining stone walls of the fortress are an English Heritage site with sweeping views across the fells and are all that's left of one of the more remote Roman outposts in Britain. After the Romans left in the 5th Century, the road lingered on as an unpaved horse and mule route until the local hoteliers association paid for improvements to the road in the 1880s, hoping to encourage scenic horse and carriage trips. A few years later, the scheme was abandoned.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0bb1cn6"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt wasn't until 1913 that the first motor vehicles drove over the pass, from the easier Eskdale side. Later, Hardknott's steep gradient was used to test tanks during World War Two. Their steel tracks chewed up the road so much that it had to be rebuilt. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the road is best tackled on a sunny day – but that's rare in the West Cumbrian fells. An average day features horizontal rain, buffeting side winds and slippery surfaces. On a bad day, the road becomes impassable. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe driver's reward for all that steering and gear changing, however, is access to an untouched mountain landscape of rare, wild beauty. The waterfalls, sheer rock faces and sudden stunning views across the fells must be much as the Romans saw them. Cliffs soar into the clouds on either side while hardy sheep wander confidently across the road. They don't worry about the traffic. After all, cars are the outsiders here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-04T22:58:28Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Hardknott Pass: Britain's wildest road","headlineShort":"The UK's most challenging road?","image":["p0bb0x6n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"54.4027","longitude":"3.2054","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0bb0x6n"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211107-inchconnachan-the-british-island-where-wallabies-rule","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190904-an-exhilarating-train-journey-across-the-sahara","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Built by the Romans and considered one of Britain's most \"outrageous\" roads, it's filled with sharp hairpin turns and is the width of a bridleway.","summaryShort":"Should this extraordinary pass be closed or treated as a national treasure?","tag":["tag\u002Froad-trips"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-13T23:02:09.189768Z","entity":"article","guid":"814408e1-652e-47cc-9f70-37d8c23f6fba","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road","modifiedDateTime":"2021-12-14T21:04:28.382718Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211213-the-hardknott-pass-britains-wildest-road","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135644},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language","_id":"6183c29045ceed77661b9671","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Bahasa Indonesia was adopted to make communication easier across the vast Indonesian archipelago, but its simplicity has only created new barriers.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe woman stood in her roadside stall in a quiet neighbourhood in the Indonesian city of Yogyakarta, chopping tomatoes, beans and spinach, plus one red chilli. Mixing everything in a peanut sauce, she handed the salad, called \u003Cem\u003Elotek\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, to customers who puttered up on motorbikes and waited on blue plastic stools. She was curious about me, full of questions, and the feeling was mutual. It was to chat with people like her that I had moved to Indonesia and enrolled in intensive language study. Yet after hundreds of hours of classes, I couldn’t understand what she was saying.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEverything she said sounded to me like it had half a syllable. I did make out familiar words, but painfully rarely. I wondered what her life was like in this city, how she felt about escalating political and cultural tension in this young democracy and the world’s most populous Muslim-majority nation. But I wasn’t to find out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShe handed me my meal wrapped in newspaper, the text of which I \u003Cem\u003Ecould\u003C\u002Fem\u003E understand. ‘\u003Cem\u003EBahasa Indonesia baku\u003C\u002Fem\u003E’, I thought to myself – textbook Bahasa Indonesia. My teachers had referred to the language as ‘baku’, or ‘standard’, in class, emphasising that it was this version of Indonesian, the nation’s official language, we were learning. The addendum hadn’t struck me as overly important, but it should have.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171217-why-south-koreans-rarely-use-the-word-me\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Asian language designed to unify\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170814-how-one-language-unites-83-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe pidgin language uniting 83 islands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170525-the-island-that-forever-changed-science\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe island that forever changed science\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBahasa Indonesia’s antecedent, Malay, evolved and spread during the last millennium because of the need in maritime South-East Asia – where hundreds of languages are still spoken across the thousands of islands that now comprise the modern nations of Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore – for a lingua franca for trade and other exchanges. Malay was seen to be grammatically simple, non-hierarchical and easier to learn than other regional languages. It was the mother tongue of few, but as people travelled around the region, it became their accepted means to communicate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen, in the early 20th Century, Indonesian nationalists, plotting independence from Dutch colonial rule, agreed that a reformed version of Malay, with an expanded vocabulary and a new name – Bahasa Indonesia – should become the official language of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-pacific-14921238\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esoon-to-be independent nation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Malay, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fecommons-new.library.cornell.edu\u002Fbitstream\u002Fhandle\u002F1813\u002F53391\u002FINDO_1_0_1107134808_89_116.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Cornell University Indonesian scholar Benedict Anderson, was “simple and flexible enough to be rapidly developed into a modern political language”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe goal for Bahasa Indonesia was to break down communication barriers and facilitate inclusion of more than 300 ethnic groups in the new nation, whose independence was officially recognised in 1949. Because no major ethnic group, including the Javanese (whose highly complex language was at the time spoken by about 40% of the population), would have its mother tongue as the official language, inequality would not be created or reinforced. Bahasa Indonesia would help draw unity out of diversity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut in reality, things aren’t so simple. Today, standard Bahasa Indonesia, which hasn’t evolved too drastically from Malay, is rarely spoken in casual conversations. People think it’s too ‘\u003Cem\u003Ekaku’\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning rigid and stiff, my language teacher Andini told me after I admitted my difficulties at the roadside stall. Moreover, people sometimes find Bahasa Indonesia inadequate to express what they want. Andini confessed she often shares this frustration, wanting to use words and expressions from a sub-dialect of East Javanese spoken in her hometown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"People sometimes find Bahasa Indonesia inadequate to express what they want","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPart of the problem lies in the language itself: Bahasa Indonesia has fewer words than most languages. Endy Bayuni of The Jakarta Post \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.thejakartapost.com\u002Fnews\u002F2015\u002F10\u002F25\u002Fview-point-is-bahasa-indonesia-stagnating-nation-s-progress.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehas written that\u003C\u002Fa\u003E foreign translations of Indonesian novels tend to read better, while Indonesian translations of foreign novels sound ‘verbose and repetitive’. But there’s also a political dimension. Because Indonesians learn Bahasa Indonesia in school, then hear it as adults primarily in political speech, they \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fanthrosource.onlinelibrary.wiley.com\u002Fdoi\u002Ffull\u002F10.1525\u002Fjlin.2007.17.2.184\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eassociate it with homogeneity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to Dr Nancy J Smith-Hefner, associate professor of anthropology at Boston University. This is exacerbated because Bahasa Indonesia was heavily promoted during the Suharto dictatorship that ruled from the mid-1960s until 1998 and stifled many forms of individual and cultural expression. Because of this, those who speak it risk looking “theatrical, bookish or pompous”, explained Nelly Martin-Anatias of the Institute of Culture, Discourse and Communication at the Auckland University of Technology.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt turns out that a means to linguistically unite the Indonesian nation has instead, due to the language’s simplicity and rigidity, created a new barrier that prevents communication on a deeper level – one that Indonesians circumvent by employing their own particularised speech, tailored to their specific regions, generations or social classes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPeople dissatisfied with Bahasa Indonesia have plenty of options. There are hundreds of regional languages and dialects, sometimes spoken intact, sometimes blended with Bahasa Indonesia. In Yogyakarta, where I am – located in the centre of Java and the traditional heartland of Javanese culture – Javanese is commonly spoken, partly as a reflection of cultural pride. A food vendor who pushes his wooden cart along my street every morning selling \u003Cem\u003Esoto ayam\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (spicy chicken soup) often breaks into Javanese, making our conversations difficult for me to follow. He recently asked me something three times before I understood. The question, when I got it, revealed a pride in his heritage: had I yet seen \u003Cem\u003Ewayang kulit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (shadow puppet play), the quintessentially Javanese cultural performance?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMeanwhile, Indonesia’s youth continue to form their own, cooler language variants, gleefully challenging older ears, with the internet becoming colloquial Bahasa Indonesia’s new frontier\u003Cem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EThe country has close to the freest speech in Asia, and young Indonesians are fanatical fans of Twitter, Facebook, WhatsApp and Instagram, using the platforms to evolve their own language with new and borrowed words. As Andini and I scrolled through Indonesian Twitter feeds during class one day, road-bumps of slang brought me to abrupt and frequent halts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy supplementing various informal and regional speeches, Martin-Anatias told me, young Indonesians “establish intimacy and identity” when conversing, so that they can more accurately convey emotions, express needs and tell jokes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet standard Indonesian – Bahasa Indonesia baku – remains the best way I have to communicate here, and for me, the language serves its original purpose. As I operate in standard Bahasa Indonesia, I’m pleased to find plenty of people happy to meet me there. When someone speaks to me in a way I easily understand, I read significance into it, knowing they are likely tailoring it for me, adapting themselves, breaking things down as a conscious act of inclusion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"By supplementing various regional speeches, Indonesians can more accurately convey emotions, express needs and tell jokes","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis happened when I took a motorbike taxi home from class. I understood my young driver near-perfectly. His questions were simply phrased: “In your country what season is it now?”; “In your country are there transport apps?”. My own questions he answered in a way designed to ensure clarity. I awkwardly said some just-memorised slang, and he offered a thumbs-up.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKnowing when to scale up speech styles and when to scale them back, and how to successfully balance differing impulses to unity and diversity – that is Bahasa Indonesia’s and this country’s challenge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Flost-in-translation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELost in Translation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series exploring encounters with languages and how they are reflected in a place, people and culture.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Travel, Capital, Culture, Earth and Future, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-07-04T17:35:26Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Why no-one speaks Indonesia's language","headlineShort":"A language people don’t want to speak","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Bahasa Indonesia was adopted to make communication easier across the vast Indonesian archipelago, but its simplicity has only created new barriers.","summaryShort":"It was adopted to make communication easier but has created new barriers","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2018-07-03T17:00:06.612325Z","entity":"article","guid":"ede174ef-cce1-4753-91be-ea663e31b4ca","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:02:24.961116Z","project":"travel","slug":"20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135645},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud","_id":"6183c23c45ceed51b94a8cd4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"By claiming South Korea's national dish as its own, China may have angered the internet, but at least now the world has heard about \"pao cai\".","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen it comes to popular pickled condiments, Germans have sauerkraut, Indians have achaar and Koreans have kimchi. The fiery fermented food is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-25840493\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouth Korea's national dish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the tradition of making and sharing it is listed as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fich.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002FRL\u002Fkimjang-making-and-sharing-kimchi-in-the-republic-of-korea-00881\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that \"reaffirms Korean identity\", and the dish is an integral part of every meal – so much so that when South Korea launched its first astronaut to space in 2008, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Fasia-pacific\u002F7243066.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eit sent kimchi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with her.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut in recent weeks, South Korea's claim to one of its most popular cultural and culinary exports has come under threat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt all started late last month when the Swiss-based International Organization for Standardization (ISO) posted new regulations for the making of \u003Cem\u003Epao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Ecai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a similar pickled vegetable dish from Sichuan, China. As \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-55129805\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC News\u003C\u002Fa\u003E reported, although the ISO listing clearly states \"this document does not apply to kimchi,\" China's state-run Global Times newspaper quickly pounced on the certification, claiming it as \"an international standard for the kimchi industry led by China\". South Korea's agricultural ministry dismissed the Chinese claims, releasing a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mafra.go.kr\u002Fmafra\u002F294\u002Fsubview.do?enc=Zm5jdDF8QEB8JTJGYmJzJTJGbWFmcmElMkY2OSUyRjMyNTQwNSUyRmFydGNsVmlldy5kbyUzRmJic0NsU2VxJTNEJTI2cmdzRW5kZGVTdHIlM0QlMjZiYnNPcGVuV3JkU2VxJTNEJTI2cGFzc3dvcmQlM0QlMjZzcmNoQ29sdW1uJTNEJTI2cGFnZSUzRDElMjZyZ3NCZ25kZVN0ciUzRCUyNnJvdyUzRDEwJTI2aXNWaWV3TWluZSUzRGZhbHNlJTI2c3JjaFdyZCUzRCUyNg%3D%3D\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estatement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E saying, \"It is inappropriate to report [the pao cai certification] without differentiating kimchi from pao cai of China's Sichuan.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, that response didn't go far enough for many Koreans, who leapt to social and local media to defend their country's quintessential comfort food and call out China for appropriation. \"China is even trying to steal Kimchi from Korea,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FDrTaraO\u002Fstatus\u002F1333248759006961665\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etweeted\u003C\u002Fa\u003E one user. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fenglish.chosun.com\u002Fsite\u002Fdata\u002Fhtml_dir\u002F2020\u002F11\u002F30\u002F2020113001551.html?fbclid=IwAR3P8qusg43C-uDr7UtN7Ex21Lu3kwNKzuVJjqQysc_K0PAAMStZJnziz-U\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Chosun Ilbo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a South Korean newspaper, called China's claim \"its latest bid for world domination\". And in the past three weeks, this online \"kimchi war\" has rekindled a decades-long feud between the neighbouring nations that encompasses everything from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-17890929\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efishing rights in the Yellow Sea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to a K-Pop band member's recent comments about \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-54513408\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina's role in the Korean War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The battle over who owns kimchi may come down to a simple misunderstanding that has gotten lost in translation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut it seems that the battle over who owns kimchi may come down to a simple misunderstanding that has gotten lost in translation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Dr Sojin Lim, the co-director of the Institute of Korean Studies at the University of Central Lancashire, Korean kimchi is often served in China under the name pao cai, and – to add further confusion – China has its own fermented dish that it also calls pao cai, which is the dish that recently won ISO certification.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Pao cai is quite different from kimchi. Kimchi is a fermented cabbage, [made with] very different kinds of spicy [and] non-spicy [ingredients]. But this pao cai, which China claims as a part of kimchi, is a pickled vegetable, which is something very different from kimchi,\" Lim \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fsounds\u002Fplay\u002Fp0901blr\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etold BBC Newshour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. She added: \"Pao cai tastes really different, [and is made] really different. But for Chinese understanding, kimchi is part of pao cai, so that is the starting point of this argument.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There should be no dispute about the origin of kimchi","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor many South Koreans, the very notion that another nation could lay claim to its national dish touches a nerve that goes beyond food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"There should be no dispute about the origin of kimchi,\" said Syuoung Park, executive chef at New York's two-Michelin-starred Korean restaurant \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fjungsik.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJungsik\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Kimchi is a traditional Korean dish that originated over 3,000 years ago. The tradition of making kimchi started as a way to ferment and store vegetables during the cold winter when many Koreans died of starvation. It is the most ubiquitous side dish on a table every day [and] a long-standing cultural heritage of Korea. I hope our culture no longer becomes distorted.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200204-is-this-the-capital-of-kimchi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this the capital of kimchi?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESichuan peppercorn: A Chinese spice so hot it cools\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow a Korean comfort food went global\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Fuchsia Dunlop, author of the book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomsbury.com\u002Fuk\u002Fthe-food-of-sichuan-9781408867556\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Food of Sichuan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and a Chinese culinary expert, \"Pao cai literally just means 'vegetables pickled in brine',\" and while kimchi is layered with ground chillies and fermented with seafood, neither of those are present in Sichuanese pao chi. Yet, just as many Koreans eat kimchi every day – even while orbiting the Earth – Dunlop explains that pao cai holds an equally strong place in the hearts and stomachs of Sichuanese.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It's incredibly important. It's an essential part of the Sichuanese traditional diet,\" she said. \"Normally with every meal, you'll have a little bit of pickles – perhaps radish, cabbage, whatever is in season. If you have breakfast in Sichuan, a typical thing to have is a thin rice porridge with a steamed bun or bread element, and then pickles. The function of the pickles is \u003Cem\u003Exiafan,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E which means \"to send the rice down\". You eat these plain foods, and you need something tasty to send the rice down. It's the same thing with an evening meal. It's very much a part of Sichuanese everyday life.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInterestingly, just as some Italians believe that \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200415-how-to-make-pizza-like-a-neapolitan-master\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\"true\" Neapolitan pizza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is only made with San Marzano tomatoes grown on the volcanic plains near Mt Vesuvius, Dunlop explained that Sichuanese pao cai aficionados believe the pickling brine used to make the condiment should ideally be made with salt that comes from the Sichuanese town of Zigong, where it has been mined for more than 2,000 years.  \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There are countless other wonderful pickled vegetables throughout China that the outside world knows nothing about","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording Clarissa Wei, a Taiwan-based journalist who travelled to Sichuan earlier this year to profile \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=wQo9bdojU1w&feature=youtu.be\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehow local residents prepare pao cai\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, this murky marinade is what really distinguishes the two regional condiments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The biggest difference is that Sichuan pickles (pao cai) use a brine of salt water and spices, whereas for kimchi, you massage the cabbage with salt and pickle it in its natural juices. Whole spices are added in the pao cai brine and the vegetable isn't broken up completely during the pickling process,\" Wei said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESo, if the two dishes are distinctly different, what is to make of China's claim to kimchi?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"China absolutely loves to pounce on stories which say the Chinese were first. But in truth, it may be a bit more complicated than that,\" Dunlop said. \"China, Korea and Japan have amazing traditions of pickling, as do many other countries in the world. Everywhere in the world, people have thought of ways to make foods last longer. You have pickling and fermentation everywhere. Of course, there are local specialties and variations, but it's very much a part of shared human culture. It's absurd for anyone to claim they invented pickling!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet, while Unesco, South Koreans and most discerning diners around the world would be quick to characterise kimchi as Korean, Dunlop argues that China likely won this most recent fermentation feud. By The New York Times, The Guardian, Reuters and other international outlets reporting on the recent row, countless readers who had never before heard of pao cai are now aware of it – a fact that is evident by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftrends.google.com\u002Ftrends\u002Fexplore?date=today%205-y&q=pao%20cai\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethis Google Trends graph\u003C\u002Fa\u003E showing searches for the Sichuanese dish at a five-year high.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Regardless of what anyone thinks about this claim, the Sichuanese have scored a huge PR victory,\" Dunlop said. \"Pao cai is a wonderful Sichuanese tradition, but only in Sichuan. There are countless other wonderful pickled vegetables throughout China that the outside world knows nothing about.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps China can leave kimchi to the Korean experts and use this moment to introduce the world to its many other mouth-watering ways to \"send the rice down\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ffood-wars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFood Wars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture’s identity.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-12-18T15:23:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"How kimchi rekindled a decades-long feud","headlineShort":"How kimchi rekindled an age-old feud","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"By claiming South Korea's national dish as its own, China may have angered the internet, but at least now the world has heard about \"pao cai\".","summaryShort":"China claimed Korea's national dish, and the internet erupted","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2020-12-17T21:02:53.163079Z","entity":"article","guid":"56e167ed-9ad5-4bfc-adaf-2e3db2c30ba2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:01:31.887386Z","project":"travel","slug":"20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135645},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre","_id":"6183c24445ceed54385f0405","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Writer Susannah Rigg discovers the hard way that Mexico’s albur, or wordplay, is not easy for foreigners to master.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a Brit living in Mexico, I’ve discovered that many people are intrigued by whether or not I eat spicy food. I once had an entire conversation with a waiter in which he asked me where I was from, what language I spoke, where exactly England was, and finally ended with the question he was really trying to ask: \u003Cem\u003Edo you eat spicy food?\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHaving experienced so much curiosity around the level of heat that I can handle, I was well prepared when a friend asked me if I like chilli while a group of us were out for drinks in Oaxaca city. I waxed lyrical about my love of chillies, the great variety found in Mexico, the level of spice of each chilli and just how much I could handle. What began as stifled giggles among the group became full-on belly laughs, with some of the group almost crying with laughter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Albur would have me both intrigued and confused for years to come","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI giggled along nervously, like a child who doesn’t understand a joke, while I rapidly ran through what I had said, looking for possible mistakes in my Spanish that could have caused such amusement. Suppressing giggles, one of my friends said, “so you really like Mexican chilli, then?” and the whole table fell about laughing again. At that moment, it clicked: ‘chilli’ must have a double meaning, and it didn’t take long to work out what that double meaning was. My cheeks went puce as I ran back over what I had been saying through their filter, my blushing face making everyone laugh even more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis was my introduction to \u003Cem\u003Ealbur\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a Mexican play on words that would have me both intrigued and confused for years to come.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170725-the-confusing-way-mexicans-tell-time\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe confusing way Mexicans tell time\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171001-how-italians-influenced-a-south-american-dialect\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe slang that transformed Spanish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171126-in-mexico-city-pleasantries-help-keep-the-city-afloat\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe city where people don’t get angry\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMost albures have to do with sex. “[It’s a] way of talking about sex without talking about it,” said Dr Lucille Herrasti, professor of linguistics at the Autonomous University of Morelos. Like in many societies, many Mexicans view sex as a taboo subject. “Using albur is a way to generate the meaning behind the words without using the actual words,” Herrasti added, noting that albures have to be funny in order to make the ordinarily prohibited subject more approachable. She explained how objects that have phallic characteristics – such as the chilli – are used to craft double entendres. The result is that one can be innocently talking about making salsa from chilli, and someone else will hear something more salacious.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It’s a way of talking about sex without talking about it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGrowing up in England, I am no stranger to the double entendre. The UK is rather fond of double meanings, and I learnt at a young age that often what people say isn’t what they really mean. I spent my youth watching shows ripe with covert sexual references, like Are You Being Served, Blackadder and ‘Allo ‘Allo!, and listening to the incredible linguistic wordplays on the BBC Radio 4 show, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb006qnwb\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EI’m Sorry I Haven’t A Clue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Even Shakespeare gave us multiple double entendres in his work. The title of his play, Much Ado About Nothing, is a cheeky play on words where ‘no-thing’ was a reference to female genitalia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHerrasti explained that, in Mexico, albures can take multiple forms. There is the use of hidden meanings in words, as well as the rearranging of words and phrases to create new meanings. Some more tame albures also come from using words with similar sounds to create alternatives to traditional expressions, in much the same way that Brits might say ‘oh sugar’ rather than using a more charged swear word. While some see albur as childish or in bad taste, for Herrasti it is an art form, where the quick-witted speaker has “a really good ability with language”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI love playing with words – I am a writer, after all, and a love of words comes with the job. Learning Spanish opened my world up to a whole new language with which to toy. However, wordplay in a second language is a greater challenge than wordplay in your mother tongue, and despite having a solid grasp of Mexican Spanish, albur can still leave me for dust.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI am not alone, apparently. Gregorio Desgarennes, who teaches Mexican slang to non-native speakers in his home city of Oaxaca, says that foreigners not only have to translate the words but then look for the hidden meaning behind them, which makes understanding albures – often passed back and forth between friends in rapid fire – extremely difficult. Beyond that, he explains that the hidden meanings can be so well veiled that they are hard for even Mexicans to understand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe origins of albur are as hard to pin down as the quick tongues of its users. Herrasti explained that academics who have been investigating the origins of albur believe it to have come from the mines of central Mexico, where groups of miners used it as a way to entertain each other. Yet most Mexicans whom I have spoken to claim that its roots go much further back to the Spanish conquest, with the indigenous population finding a way to play with the Spanish using the language imposed on them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDesgarennes explains that as he sees it, albur represents resistance “to speaking ‘well’” and a transgression from the norm. He describes albur as short form among the working class that tells the other person, “we both come from the \u003Cem\u003Ebarrio\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [a lower-class neighbourhood]” and automatically creates a sense of trust. The more complicated and complex the albures get, the more trust is built.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlbur is such a recognised part of Mexican culture that there is now a competition every year to find Mexico’s best \u003Cem\u003Ealbureros, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eor wordplay masters\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E Each contestant comes to the table with an original albur to which their opponent must respond within five seconds with another albur. This back and forth continues until one person is unable to retaliate and is knocked out of the competition. Almost like a display of masculinity, the albur competition was long dominated by men until 20 years ago when Lourdes Ruiz, a female market vendor from Tepito, a working-class neighbourhood of Mexico City, was crowned the ‘Queen of Albur’, a title that no-one has been able to strip her of since.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Queen of Albur is now leading the way in the world of wordplay, and Mexico City residents can enrol in a diploma in \u003Cem\u003Ealbur fino\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or ‘refined albur’, taught by Ruiz herself. Offered free of charge, the course attracts participants from across the socioeconomic spectrum who want to learn from the best. For Alfonso Hernández and Rusbel Navarro, who run the course alongside Ruiz, albur should be seen as far more than just funny sexual euphemisms. For them, it is a kind of “mental chess” that involves a linguistic mastery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Albur transforms everyday words into another transgressive language experience","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn important form of cultural identity among Mexico’s often marginalised working class, albur, Hernández and Navarro explain, is also a way of using humour to laugh in the face of power – and more importantly – horror. “Albur transforms everyday words into another transgressive language experience. Therefore, with albur, those who survive tragedies can live [with] them with humour.” It is much like the old saying, “if you don’t laugh you will cry.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis explanation makes a lot of sense in a country as complex as Mexico. Mexicans see tragedy in the news daily, and yet laughter and playfulness are everywhere you go. Film director Guillermo del Toro spoke further to this point when asked how he was able to reconcile his dark films with his always-happy personality. His response was simple: “I am Mexican.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOpinions about albur seem to be divided in the country: some consider albur linguistic poetry, while others feel it is juvenile and derogatory. Between 2014 and 2016, it was widely reported in Mexico that Unesco had declared albur to be of intangible cultural heritage, which, while apparently untrue, sparked a debate among Mexicans about this form of speech. According to a study conducted by the Strategic Communications Cabinet, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmexico.quadratin.com.mx\u002Fecharse-albur-mal-gusto-mayoria-mexicanos-gce\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eonly 21% of the population\u003C\u002Fa\u003E felt that albur was a form of Mexican ingenuity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIngenious or not, for us foreigners, it will likely continue to be a source of confusion. Despite my training, from Shakespeare to Blackadder, I am resigned to the fact that for as long as I live in Mexico I may never truly be safe when talking about how well I can handle my chilli.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Flost-in-translation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELost in Translation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series exploring encounters with languages and how they are reflected in a place, people and culture.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-05-28T12:34:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Mexican art of double entendre","headlineShort":"Be careful what you say in Mexico","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Writer Susannah Rigg discovers the hard way that Mexico’s albur, or wordplay, is not easy for foreigners to master.","summaryShort":"Mexico’s art of wordplay is likely to leave foreigners confounded","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2018-05-27T12:03:52.206674Z","entity":"article","guid":"4b4b12cc-f497-468c-ac23-af06a2285290","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:00:43.654094Z","project":"travel","slug":"20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135645},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude","_id":"61b81ad245ceed167c0d811a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fvivian-song"],"bodyIntro":"Though considered impertinent in many cultures, asking someone's age in South Korea is a social contract that establishes the pecking order between speakers.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe first time British expat Joel Bennett understood he had committed a major linguistic faux pas was when he thanked a restaurant owner for a good meal during his first trip to South Korea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe owner was a female in her 60s and Bennett, then 23, said \"\u003Cem\u003Egomawo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\", which translates to a breezy \"thanks\" in English. He thought he was being polite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnbeknownst to him, Bennett, now 33, had used a casual, informal version of \"thank you\" that would have been construed as rude and insulting had he been Korean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I didn't realise there were so many ways to say thank you,\" Bennett said. \"I always just thought thank you was thank you.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut in Korean culture, as a person several decades younger than the owner, Bennett was expected to have used the honorific form of the Korean language, a complex linguistic system with multiple levels of speech that has been described as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.koreatimes.co.kr\u002Fwww\u002Fnation\u002F2017\u002F12\u002F181_240261.html\"\u003Eone of the most complicated languages in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as it requires constantly assessing one's seniority, social status and level of intimacy in relation to the addressee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is why, in South Korea, shortly after meeting someone new, you will be invariably asked to reveal your age. Freely sharing your age or your year of birth is not merely a social convention. It's a social contract that establishes the pecking order and hierarchy between speakers. Because even the difference of one year can dictate everything from the way people speak to each other to the way they eat and drink in each other's company.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The number one factor when determining which speech style to use is age,\" explained Jieun Kiaer, a professor of Korean language and linguistics at the University of Oxford. \"This is why people are always asking each other their age. Not because they're necessarily interested in how old you are, but because they really need to find the suitable form of speech style.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b9vzfj"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Illuminated buildings and city street at night in Seoul, South Korea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor some Westerners, inquiring after a new acquaintance's age could be seen as inappropriately intrusive. But to fully understand why age isn't just a number in Korean society requires understanding the lasting impact of neo-Confucianism in South Korea, an ancient ideology centred on filial piety, deference to elders and social order, which governed the country for more than 500 years throughout the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) and continues to dictate social norms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"All of Confucianism can be summarised in two words,\" said Ro Young-chan, a professor of religious studies and the director of the Korean Studies Centre at George Mason University in Fairfax, Virginia. \"Humanity and ritual.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language\"\u003EA language people don't want to speak\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow kimchi rekindled a decades-long feud\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBe careful what you say in Mexico\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe teachings of Chinese philosopher Confucius (551 to 479BC) were born during a period of upheaval in Chinese history, Ro explained. To restore order throughout the country, the philosopher believed that humanity could be saved by establishing a social structure based on a strict code of propriety and ceremonial rites in which everyone occupied a certain role – and everyone understood their place within it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn neo-Confucianism, social harmony can be achieved by respecting the natural order within five central relationships known as \u003Cem\u003Eoryun\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Korean: king and subject; husband and wife, parent and child; sibling to sibling; and friend to friend. Those who occupy the senior role – parent, husband, king – are to be treated with respect and humility, while those on the lower rungs of the social hierarchy are cared for with benevolence in return.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut out in larger society, when meeting someone new, who gets assigned the higher position – and gets to command the respect, courtesies and honorific formalities that go along with it? \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat's where age comes in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b9vzd5"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Back of two women dressed in hanbok walking through traditional houses in Seoul, South Korea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the honorific Korean language system has as many as seven levels of speech and writing styles, everyday conversation can be divided into two levels: \u003Cem\u003Ebanmal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the casual, informal form; and \u003Cem\u003Ejondaemal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the more formal, deferential form of speech which is generally expressed by adding the ending \"yo\" to a sentence. \u003Cspan\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It requires a lot of care and negotiation to find the right speech styles,\" said Kiaer. \"And if you use the wrong one, it can create a lot of conflict and you won't be able to talk successfully with the other person.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBecause while age plays a big part in determining speech style, it's not a hard and fast rule, Kiaer explained. There are a host of nuances and factors to consider: the context; the socio-economic status between speakers; levels of intimacy; and whether you're in a public or private setting. Thanks to the global popularity of Hallyu, or Korean wave – be it K-pop, the film Parasite or the recent Netflix export Squid Game – the principles are becoming easier to teach, she said, but can still be confounding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A fascinating thing is that this is difficult not only for non-Koreans, but Koreans too","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's all so confusing, in fact, that even native Korean speakers can get it wrong. In a 2019 paper published in the journal Discourse and Cognition, Kiaer found that more than 100 conflicts involving serious incidents of physical assault in South Korea between 2008 and 2017 were caused after one of the speakers was perceived to have shifted to \u003Cem\u003Ebanmal,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or informal speech, inappropriately.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A fascinating thing is that this is difficult not only for non-Koreans, but Koreans too,\" Kiaer said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt this point in the conversation, I, a second-generation Korean Canadian with mediocre Korean language skills, entered a mild panic and sifted through a mental checklist of all the times I could have offended my elders, as well as those younger than myself. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI shamelessly seized the opportunity to ask the linguistic expert a personal question: When I first met my sister-in-law's younger sister, almost 20 year my junior, did I err when I switched to banmal a few hours following our initial encounter?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere was a pause. I could tell Kiaer was trying to break it to me gently. Though I was clearly the elder in this situation, she was my in-law, a very particular relationship in Korean culture, and I had just met her. Either I could have continued using jondaemal, or I should have negotiated and asked her permission to address her casually, Kiaer said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b9vz9n"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Four hands holding glasses filled with beer in a restaurant, South Korea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"To find the right speech style, the first step is always to negotiate. Because if you switch to the other speech style without negotiation, that's what leads to people feeling offended.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBefore moving to South Korea in August, Toronto expat Delia Xu was strategic about learning Korean to avoid doing just that. \"I think it's really important when you're first learning, to learn the formal grammar structures,\" she said. \"Because you don't ever want to accidentally come off as rude.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are likewise a raft of non-verbal gestures and behaviours that go along with being on the lower rung of the social hierarchy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a 2016 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=B5dmM02P43U\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYouTube video\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that has been viewed more than 1.2 million times, expat Bennett was given a lesson on proper drinking etiquette in South Korea when in the company of elders. The rules are dizzying: as a sign of respect, you must pour the drink using two hands; turn your head away from the elder when drinking; never let the elder's glass stay empty for long; and to wait for the elder to set down their glass first before lowering your own. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You're not on edge, but you're aware,\" Bennett said. \"I'm looking at the speed at which they're drinking their beer and I'm going to match that. I make sure that they're topped up so that when we go to cheers, it's not an awkward moment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EXu also admits that learning the code of drinking conduct can be daunting. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's definitely a lot of pressure because suddenly, you're bestowed with a lot of responsibilities,\" she said. \"If you take a drink of alcohol and you don't look away, you've suddenly offended someone. It can definitely be consuming but I'm sure it's something you get used to.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b9vz8t"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Customer and shop owner discussing leather shoes in boutique","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt this point, it might be easy to call out the Korean social structure as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.koreaherald.com\u002Fview.php?ud=20210113000769\"\u003Ean oppressive form of both ageism and sexism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as women are also expected to obey and submit to their husbands under traditional Confucian doctrine. But as Bennett soon learned, the role of being an elder also comes with its own responsibility.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A lot of that authority is quite beautifully about serving,\" he said. \"If I'm the elder person, who is more ahead in terms of my career and in life, I will look after you as I'm older.\" In contemporary Korea, that might mean paying for the younger person's dinner or serving as a professional and personal mentor\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EWhen giving and receiving money, do so with two hands\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EWhen in doubt, always use the formal, polite speech style regardless of their age\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EIn general, ending sentences with \"yo\" and \"nida\" denotes the polite, jondaemal form\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EAdd the suffix \"nim\" to names and titles to show respect\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ways to convey respect","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We have to revitalise and reinterpret our traditions and make them make sense to modern society","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's a concept that circles back to the principle of filial piety and honorifics. In more intimate relationships, older female friends aren't called by their names but by the generic term \"older sister\" (unni when it's a female speaking, noona for males). Older male friends are also called \"older brother\" (\u003Cem\u003Eobba\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for female speakers, \u003Cem\u003Ehyung\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for male speakers).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In Korea, social ethics is an extension of the family,\" Ro explained. \"We have to understand society as a larger family. If you meet an older person, you treat them like your older brother or sister. It's an interesting way to see society, the nation and the world. That humanity is just an extension of our family.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Ro acknowledges that somewhere along the way, the Confucian principle of reciprocity between senior and junior; younger and older; male and female relationships may have got lost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInstead of mutually beneficial relationships where respect is offered in exchange for care, and deference is given in return for guidance, the hierarchical system can be ripe for abuse and power imbalances. In the Korean workplace, for example, the phenomenon of authoritative bosses harassing lower rank-and-file subordinates is so common it spawned a modern term to denote workplace bullying called \u003Cem\u003Egapjil\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. And when it comes to gender equality, South Korea consistently posts the largest gender pay gap among the 38 member states of the OECD. In addition, a growing backlash led by conservative South Korean men against the feminism movement has been gaining momentum in recent years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne modern Korean scholar, Kim Kyung-il, even called for the demise of Confucianism altogether in \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.koreaherald.com\u002Fview.php?ud=20170822000239\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea controversial book\u003C\u002Fa\u003E titled Confucius must die for this nation to live.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Ro, however, what ails South Korean society is not Confucianism, but a poor understanding of it. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E“Confucianism is a living tradition,\" he said. \"We have to revitalise and reinterpret our traditions and make them make sense to modern society. Confucianism is 2,500 years old. We cannot simply abandon all this. In one way or another, we are indebted to this tradition.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Flost-in-translation\"\u003ELost in Translation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series exploring encounters with languages and how they are reflected in a place, people and culture.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Flost-in-translation","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-01-03T01:29:27Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Where asking someone's age isn't rude","headlineShort":"The one question all Koreans ask","image":["p0b9vzg7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Young woman walking down Myeongdong street market in Seoul, South Korea","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"35.9078","longitude":"127.7669","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Young woman walking down Myeongdong street market in Seoul, South Korea","promoImage":["p0b9vzg7"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180527-the-mexican-art-of-double-entendre"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Though considered impertinent in many cultures, asking someone's age in South Korea is a social contract that establishes the pecking order between speakers.","summaryShort":"It's a social contract that establishes the hierarchy between speakers","tag":["tag\u002F20141118-language"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-14T04:17:15.549895Z","entity":"article","guid":"de798841-7dd2-4915-89cc-6079432c279e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude","modifiedDateTime":"2022-01-05T10:29:25.054485Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211214-where-asking-someones-age-isnt-rude","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-korea","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_south-korea_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135644},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam","_id":"6183c25a45ceed5a91091124","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Opened in 1908 from Damascus to Medina, the Hejaz Railway was built to bring the Ottoman Empire closer together. Much has changed, but the line continues to entrance travellers today.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocated on the side of a dusty road, Amman’s Hejaz Railway station is easy to miss. To get there, you must leave the labyrinthine streets that spiral through the city’s historical centre, swirling up hills and eddying around better-known sites like the ancient citadel or Roman theatre. The drive out to the station is about 5km; when there is traffic, as there often is in Jordan’s capital, it can feel longer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EStep through the stone gate, though, and it feels like you’ve entered a different era. Here, steam locomotives are still king. The Ottoman sultan controls a swath of land from modern-day Bosnia-Herzegovina to the Black Sea and Basra to Beirut.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd hopes are high that a railway can unite the Muslim world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOrdered by Sultan Abdul Hamid II in 1900, the Hejaz Railway was constructed to make it easier and safer to reach Mecca during \u003Cem\u003Ehajj\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the pilgrimage Muslims are expected to make at least once in a lifetime. Previously, pilgrims travelled for weeks, if not months, by camel caravan. The section from Damascus to Medina alone took 40 days, and many pilgrims died en route in the dry deserts and harsh mountains. The railway shortened the 40-day journey to five.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter the Damascus-Medina section finished, the plan was to extend the line north to the Ottoman capital of Constantinople and south to Mecca itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut the railway’s importance to Islam didn’t end there. Unusually for a transportation project at the time, it was financed entirely by donations from Muslims, Ottoman state revenues and taxes – and without any foreign investment. As a result, even today, the route is considered \u003Cem\u003Ewaqf\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: an asset that belongs to all Muslims. “It is not owned by a country. It’s not owned by any one person. It’s owned by all the Muslims in the world,” said Azmi Nalshik, director general of Jordan Hejaz Railways. “It’s like a mosque: it can’t be sold.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAny Muslim in the world – even from Indonesia or Malaysia  – can come and claim, ‘I have shares in this’,” Nalshik said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Sultan Abdul Hamid II, uniting the Muslim world wasn’t just a spiritual imperative: it had pragmatic benefits. Over the last few decades before the railway was built, rival empires had nibbled away at Ottoman territory. The French had taken Tunisia; the British invaded Egypt; Romania, Serbia and Montenegro gained independence. By connecting people from across the Ottoman world, the sultan wanted to unite not only Muslims – but his empire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt didn’t exactly turn out that way. In 1908, the first train ran from Damascus to Medina. The next year, the sultan was overthrown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Freligion\u002Freligions\u002Fislam\u002Fhistory\u002Fottomanempire_1.shtml\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOttoman Empire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a memory. So is the lack of borders that once characterised the route, which now runs through five nations (Turkey, Syria, Jordan, Israel and Saudi Arabia. Despite carrying 300,000 passengers a year by 1914, the Hejaz Railway’s heyday would last only a decade. After the Turkish army began to use it in World War I, conflict cut up the line; it was attacked by British officer \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-nottinghamshire-37803035\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETE Lawrence\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, nicknamed Lawrence of Arabia, and other soldiers in the Arab Revolt. After the war, when the British and French carved up the Levant between them, maintaining a railway that united Muslims was anything but a priority. Most of the line fell into disrepair.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, steam locomotives stand idle at the railway’s main station in Amman, colourful but quiet. A one-room \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.jhr.gov.jo\u002Fnode\u002F375\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emuseum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E showcases the century-old flotsam and jetsam of the once-popular line: old tickets and photographs, lanterns and railway ties. One car, lovingly restored in early 20th-Century style – plush velvet chairs, gilded lamps – gives a sense of the era’s optimistic opulence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“The story of the Hejaz Railway is a literal tragedy,” wrote scholar Sheikh Ali Attanttawi after the line had fallen largely defunct. “The line is there, but no train in motion… the stations exist, but with no passengers.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut this is not simply a story of dashed hopes and neglect.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOver the years, some of sections have been revived, if piecemeal. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.haaretz.com\u002Fisrael-news\u002Fbusiness\u002Ftrain-makes-inaugural-trip-on-new-northern-israel-line-1.5430747\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIsrael opened a re-built section from Haifa to Beit She’an\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2016. The line from Amman to Damascus ran as late as 2011 – so popular that several locals said, wistfully, how they used to enjoy taking it for weekend outings to Syria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd in Jordan, two parts of the line are accessible to the public today. There is a summer-only steam locomotive, primarily for tourists, which runs through the desert in Wadi Rum – the same line that Lawrence of Arabia once attacked. And there is a weekly train that operates year-round from Amman to Al-Jizah station, used mostly by locals for leisure outings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd so, on a recent Saturday morning, Amman’s Hejaz Railway station bustled with families. Women in bright headscarves carried enormous bags of food. Children toted footballs and toys. We were taking the train from Amman to Al-Jizah: a 35km journey south that, on the narrow-gauge track where trains are allowed to go a maximum of 15km per hour, would take two hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut the journey was the point.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the train pulled out of the station, children squealed. Crowding into each carriage’s outdoor cab, they hung over the railings, pointing as the city rattled by. As we crawled through Amman’s outskirts, the landscape wasn’t particularly picturesque. Incongruously, the historical track sometimes ran alongside, or over, a modern road; at one intersection we chugged past parked cars, a pick-up truck laden with boxes of fruit and roosters scrabbling for food on the pavement.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAn old man and his grandson peeked at us through a hole in a wall. Small children ran up to the train, throwing plastic cups at us in their own game of Arab revolutionaries against the Hejaz. One, overcome by the noise, stopped still and put her hands over her ears.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt didn’t matter: the children on the train were entranced. Many of them, I found out, were children from Amman, excited to see their city in such a different way. And one small group – beaming the same big smiles as the others – were Syrian refugees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor all of them, the Hejaz Railway was an adventure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInside, meanwhile, the party was heating up. The women turned music up, loud, on small stereos they’d brought with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I passed through one carriage, the women were standing in the aisles, dancing; they dissolved with embarrassed laughter when I entered, and shook their heads, still chuckling, when I asked if I could take their picture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETwo hours later, pulling up to Al-Jizah station, everyone piled out, heading for tables in the shade of the olive trees. Jugs of tea came out; so did za’atar-topped \u003Cem\u003Emanakish\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a pizza-like flatbread), \u003Cem\u003Emo’ajanat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fried, rolled savoury pastries) and falafel. Around the back of the station, the older kids puffed on a hookah they’d brought for the occasion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis is what the track is mostly used for today: leisure, tourism, fun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut there are hopes that, as in its heyday, the Hejaz Railway could be something more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-26"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFirst, there is its practical potential: 600,000 people make the 30km commute from Zarqa to Amman each day, Nalshik said, but there is little public transport. A feasibility study is being done to see if rehabilitating the Hejaz Railway between these two cities could help with traffic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnother ambition is more outward-focussed: to introduce more people to the history of the Hejaz Railway. “So many people pass by and don’t know this station exists, and that it’s been in operation for 110 years,” Nalshik said. “I’m working to help put it on the tourism map for Jordan.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-27"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-28"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne goal is to have the railway inscribed on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Ftentativelists\u002F6026\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage list\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; Saudi Arabia submitted it for consideration in 2015 (the country hasn’t revived the line for actual transport like Jordan has, but it has a small museum and considers the railway part of its heritage, too). In Amman, a new museum is being built at the station, a contemporary 3,000 sq m construction expected to be finished by the end of 2018. In a symbolic twist, the museum is being funded by the Turkish Development Agency (TIKA).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt seems hard to imagine a time when the train will again carry travellers from Syria to Saudi Arabia. But as long as the heritage of the Hejaz Railway is kept alive – and recognised – both the hope, and the potential, will endure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam-29"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-07-17T17:54:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Where steam locomotives are still king","headlineShort":"The rail that ‘belongs to all Muslims’","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Opened in 1908 from Damascus to Medina, the Hejaz Railway was built to bring the Ottoman Empire closer together. Much has changed, but the line continues to entrance travellers today.","summaryShort":"The line continues to entrance travellers today","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:33:12.10118Z","entity":"article","guid":"6c42e94a-38f6-40d5-b442-356e09adca36","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam","modifiedDateTime":"2021-11-18T11:35:49.280314Z","project":"travel","slug":"20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135646},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue","_id":"6183c29e45ceed7562705732","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Despite a changing way of life, some tenets of Bedouin culture have remained surprisingly consistent. And one is the warmth with which they welcome guests.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA baby goat just had been thrust into my arms when one of the girls got an idea. “Gift!” she exclaimed. “Gift for you!” Before I had time to worry that she meant the goat itself, 11-year-old Muna was running back to her family’s tent. She returned with a smile, holding a travel-sized tube of foot lotion in her palm. It was half used. “Gift,” she repeated. Her 13-year-old sister, Nida, was not to be outdone. It was her turn to disappear and return, this time with a plastic bracelet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe girls would not take no for an answer. I fished the only object I had out of a pocket to give them in return: a pot of lip balm. “Oooh,” Muna said. “Thank you.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETogether, we returned to the shade of the tent, sitting cross-legged on goat-hair rugs. As their mother watched us shyly, pouring cup after cup of tea, they showed me their drawings, taught me Arabic words, asked me to taste the ball of \u003Cem\u003Ejameed\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – a hard, chalky goat’s milk cheese, sun-dried on top of the tent – that they pressed into my hands. Across the partition, a handwoven blanket that separated the women’s and men’s quarters, I could hear as my guide to the desert chatted with his father in Arabic. A rooster crowed; one of the sheep baa-ed. The hearth filled the tent with the cosy smell of wood smoke.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis, I thought, was what I had come to Jordan to find.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20171220-the-iraq-city-that-opens-its-doors\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy Iraqis are so generous\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170823-the-fijian-villages-that-require-approval-to-enter\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA village that requires approval to enter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe railway that united Islam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy the time I arrived in Wadi Rum, I had been beginning to think my trip to Jordan was a mistake. I’d had high hopes for the tiny Middle Eastern kingdom. Friends had told me about its striking sights and delicious food. But they had gushed about one thing in particular: the country’s warmth and hospitality. That’s what I had been looking forward to most.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn my first 48 hours, I’d experienced little of it. In Aqaba, a resort town on the Red Sea where I began my journey, I was leered at, laughed at and, finally, groped. “Men here are not used to a woman alone,” one policeman shrugged. I wanted to shut myself in my hotel room and not come out again until my flight home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EInstead, I went to the desert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E*\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELocated near Jordan’s southern border with Saudi Arabia, Wadi Rum intrigues visitors with its undulating hills of white and red sand and unearthly-looking towers of rock. But the real reason to visit Wadi Rum isn’t the landscape. It’s the people who make their home here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany foreigners were first introduced to the area’s Bedouins by Wadi Rum’s most famous Western visitor, TE Lawrence – the British officer who adapted so completely to Bedouin life that he was nicknamed Lawrence of Arabia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne aspect of Bedouin culture Lawrence described was the importance of treating guests well. This was so key, he wrote, it almost ruined the Arab Revolt. The Arabs had planned to raise the flag, announcing their revolution against the Turks, on arriving in Medina. But at the last moment, they were joined on their journey by a couple of Turkish military officers. Some thought the officers should simply be despatched – after all, they were about to be sworn enemies. But the Bedouin code of hospitality made this inconvenient. Technically, after all, they were “two uninvited guests to whom, by the Arab law of hospitality, [they] could do no harm,” Lawrence wrote. (The guests were escorted back to Damascus before the flag was raised).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the decades since Lawrence’s visit, the Bedouin way of life has changed; closed borders have cut off their long-ranging, nomadic way of life, while technology and tourism have provided both opportunities and challenges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut some tenets of Bedouin culture have remained surprisingly consistent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“You want to know about Bedouin hospitality?” asked Attayak Ali al Zilabia, the director of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bedouinroads.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBedouin Roads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E camp where I was staying, when I arrived at the village of Wadi Rum. “Don’t worry. We will show you hospitality.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI soon realised that asking a Bedouin to explain hospitality was as superfluous as asking someone to describe how a sand dune feels between the toes. You don’t have to ask about it. It’s just there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E*\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMy guide to the desert was Abu Rashid, a slight, handsome man who wore his \u003Cem\u003Eagal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E rope, the black cord that keeps his red-and-white \u003Cem\u003Eshemagh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (traditional Middle Eastern scarf) in place, at a rakish angle. (His full name, he told me with a laugh when I asked, was Sabbah Abu Rashid al Zalabiyah, but even that wasn’t complete: Bedouin naming practices mean that a man’s full name includes a first name, father’s name, grandfather’s name, specific tribe name and larger ‘parent’ tribe name).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was easy to tell that Abu Rashid had lived his whole life in Wadi Rum. I quickly learned he could walk up near-vertical canyon walls as quickly and gracefully as a spider, make camels walking a mile away halt and look up by yodelling out a simple call, and, perhaps most impressively of all, keep his white \u003Cem\u003Ethoab\u003C\u002Fem\u003E – the long, loose clothing traditionally worn by Bedouin men – pristine even after a day of scrambling through red sand dunes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“I am Bedouin,” he would say with a shrug and a smile when any of these skills seemed to surprise me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne day, Abu Rashid and I had been driving for an hour without seeing another human. The sea of sand turned from red to white, with streaks of purple in the distance. We had come far south of the central touristic artery, an area that – while wild – was dotted with overnight camps and well-known sights like Lawrence’s Spring, where Lawrence was said to drink (and where Peter O’Toole did, too, in the 1962 film Lawrence of Arabia).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI had lost any sense of where I was; even the dozens of rock formations, so bizarre they could have come from the Moon, were starting to look the same. I only knew that we weren’t driving in circles because Abu Rashid kept pointing out each pillar from our 4x4. “All of the mountains have names – all of them,” he explained. That applied as much to a ‘mountain’ no bigger than 10m high as it did to titans like Jebel Umm al-Ishrin, a massif that soars 700m above the sand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the end of the day, when I asked Abu Rashid to trace our route on the map, I was shocked to see that we’d covered only about one-fifteenth of the desert. I shouldn’t have been; Wadi Rum’s protected area alone is 720 sq km, about the size of the entire New York City metropolitan area, all five boroughs included. Abu Rashid knew every metre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo those who were raised here, the desert is more than their backyard: it is home itself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis, after all, is the meaning of the word Bedouin. It comes from \u003Cem\u003Ebedu \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ein Arabic – ‘desert dwellers’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBedouin I met throughout Jordan told me how they felt that their true home wasn’t a place with a bed and a roof, but the desert wilderness. This was true in Wadi Rum, too, where several guides said that even when there’s a tent available at the camps, they often prefer to sleep in an open-top 4x4 or even on the sand, under the stars.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E*\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite being a popular tourist destination, Wadi Rum remains wild today. The small village at the desert’s edge is its only fixed settlement. If you arrive with a car, you must leave it there: camels, donkeys and 4x4s are the only way through the desert. There are no signs or roads, and barely any mobile phone service, either.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, seeing someone else in the desert almost always has been a cause for celebration. It has shaped a code of hospitality that is more than romantic; it’s pragmatic. Even if one day you are helping a stranger who stumbles upon your tent – hungry, thirsty and in need of a night’s sleep – the next time, you could be the one in need of aid.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENow, as we crossed from red sand to white near Um Sabatah, we ran into camels loping along slowly, nibbling at the bushes. Abu Rashid stopped the 4x4 and jumped out. He greeted the camel shepherd by name and gave him some food we were carrying with us, a pastry packaged in plastic. The shepherd wasn’t a cousin or Bedouin; he was an African immigrant, relatively new to Wadi Rum. But in the desert, everyone is a friend.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELater, Abu Rashid and I visited his 75-year-old father, Sheikh Ali Lafi al Zalabiyah. The sheikh goes to the village every week or so to visit his first wife and to get supplies and news. But his true home is the desert, where he lives with his second wife and his two daughters. His location changes every couple of months.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo reach him, we had to drive far south, just a couple of kilometres from the Saudi Arabian border. The family’s tent stood in the shade against a rock mountain. There was no other settlement, or person, within sight. As we entered, Ali Lafi smiled and gestured for me to sit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“A guest is treated as a guest whether you know him or not, whether he’s a stranger or not,” he told me as Abu Rashid translated. “You should accept him either way. And by Bedouin tradition, when he arrives, you don’t ask where he came from. Maybe he just has come for a visit and he continues on his way. But if he stays more than one day, two days, maybe you ask him – because perhaps he wants to talk to you about something, or needs something. Then you have to ask him and if he needs help, you help him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“But the most important thing is that you tell him ‘Welcome.’ Whether he is from the same tribe or a different tribe, from Jordan or outside of Jordan, he is a guest.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked which rules I should be following in return, he chuckled. “You are foreign,” Abu Rashid translated. “He accepts your behaviour because you are not Bedouin.” There was how I’d sat with the men, for a start: “If you were Bedouin, you would use the Bedouin system for women. When a lady comes, she goes straight to the lady place. And you would have to cover your body and your head. Your face is your choice.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAssuming I were a Bedouin man, I’d be offered coffee, Ali Lafi went on. Once I’d finished one cup, if I wanted more, I should move my cup forward in a straight line, not lifting it up or down. If I didn’t want any more coffee, I should give the empty cup a little shake. And I should only have three cups: any more is seen as greedy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut the coffee could symbolise that I needed something more than hospitality. “The man of the house, like my father, he would say, ‘Drink your coffee’,” Abu Rashid said. “The guest would say ‘No. We drink our coffee only if you do something for us.’ My father would say, ‘If I can do it, without breaking a rule of Allah, I will do it.’” That could be settling a blood feud (though those are rare these days, Abu Rashid said) or arranging a marriage (if the bride agrees). If he can do it, Abu Rashid said, he’ll say “Okay, drink your coffee.” And if he can’t? “The guest leaves angry,” Abu Rashid said, laughing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFood should be offered, too. “If you have guests from far away, or you love them and they are your friends, you should kill a goat for them, if they agree to let you do that,” Abu Rashid said. The goat is to make \u003Cem\u003Emansaf\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: a traditional dish of meat, flatbread and rice, drizzled with a broth made from jameed, the same hard goat’s cheese I tried with the girls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrom killing the goat to cooking the yoghurt, mansaf takes several hours to make. So if guests are in a hurry, the alternative is \u003Cem\u003Ezarb\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: a dish of vegetables and meat, like lamb, slow-cooked in an underground pit that is the Bedouin answer to barbecue. Although zarb can be left for two or three hours, it can also be ready in a third of the time, and it doesn’t need to be watched – making it a faster, and more convenient, alternative. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E*\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESeveral hours later, my wrist still adorned with the plastic bracelet Nida and Muna had given me, I was back at the camp, watching Abu Rashid and the camp’s cook, Muhammed, lifted a three-tiered grill arranged with lamb, zucchini and potatoes into a hole in the sand. Closing it with a lid, they shovelled it over with desert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOver the next couple of hours, there was almost no sign that the zarb was being cooked: sealed beneath sand, not even the scent of smoke gave it away. After the sun had gone down, we ate in front of the campfire as one of the guides strummed a \u003Cem\u003Erebab\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a traditional Bedouin string instrument. If this was the second-best meal for guests, it certainly wasn’t bad.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwelcome-to-our-house\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWelcome to Our House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series celebrating human kindness in all its forms through uplifting, feel-good tales of hospitality and connection.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue-24"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-09-04T19:21:54Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Zarb: The Bedouin answer to barbecue","headlineShort":"The Bedouin answer to barbecue","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Despite a changing way of life, some tenets of Bedouin culture have remained surprisingly consistent. And one is the warmth with which they welcome guests.","summaryShort":"In one of Earth’s most inhospitable places, hospitality is the highest virtue","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2018-09-03T18:55:17.596436Z","entity":"article","guid":"23f65c9b-6e8b-472f-8a28-092cd7c74c16","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:05:14.360973Z","project":"travel","slug":"20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135646},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking","_id":"6183c25145ceed5b5e4e48d4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Decades after a civil war littered its landscape and scarred its national psyche, Lebanon is using hiking to teach tourists about the country, and its people more about themselves.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPushing past the urban sprawl of Beirut, our bus made its way along the gently rolling hills of Lebanon's coastal highway, with the Mediterranean glimmering on one side and craggy peaks rising in the distance on the other. We then turned inland and climbed a narrow road into the mountains of the country's northern Koura District, overlooking terraced hillsides and the red-tiled rooftops of villages below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we wound through Koura's olive and fruit groves and past roadside shrines of local saints, our guide, Michel Moufarege, who has memorised the landscape and history of nearly every pocket in the country, pointed out scenes of historical or social interest to a group of about a dozen hikers onboard: a Roman temple, a grotto dedicated to a saint who disguised herself as a man to join her father in a monastery, and mountainsides eaten away by mining to feed the country's ravenous cement production industry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter passing through the ancient cedar forests of Bsharri and stopping in the village of Arz to meet local women preparing \u003Cem\u003Emanakeesh \u003C\u002Fem\u003E– a typical Lebanese dish of flatbread topped with cheese or thyme-and sesame \u003Cem\u003Eza'atar \u003C\u002Fem\u003E– we arrived at our final destination: a trail leading up towards the dramatic 3,000m bald peak of Dahr al Qadib, one of the highest mountains in Lebanon. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we ascended the steep limestone ridge, some of the younger hikers were left gasping for breath, but not Moufarege. At 77, the veritable elder statesman of Lebanon's hiking scene seemed unfazed as he steadily climbed upward at a deliberate pace. Born with a condition that left his arms disabled, he relies on his incredibly sure footing for balance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"For a country that's half the size of Wales, Lebanon is tremendously diverse","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the peak, the fog that had enveloped the mountain at the beginning of the trek had cleared away, revealing a panoramic view of the plains and lakes of the Beqaa Valley below. Moufarege refuses to name a favourite hike in Lebanon, but he spoke with a certain reverence about this one.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The area over the cedars, the highest chain of mountains, is very special to me because of the purity of the air, because of the colour of the soil, because of the expanses that open in front of you,\" he said. \"That is a great, great place.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMoufarege has been leading groups of hikers to the Lebanese mountains for nearly a quarter century since he founded the nation's first ecotourism company, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flibantrek.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELiban Trek\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in 1997. While informal hiking groups existed in Lebanon previously, the country's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-middle-east-14647308\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E15-year civil war\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (1975-1990) kept people from moving freely about the country, and its aftermath left many hikers seeking the safety of experienced guides to help navigate the poorly marked trails and undetonated landmines that still litter the landscape. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEight years after launching Liban Trek, Moufarege played a key role in the creation of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lebanontrail.org\u002Fhome\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELebanon Mountain Trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (LMT), a 470-km path spanning the country from north to south and connecting more than 75 ethnically diverse towns and villages. Inspired by the US' Appalachian Trail, the route \"showcases the natural beauty and cultural wealth of Lebanon's mountains\", and has helped to put the small Mediterranean country on the international hiking map. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201213-a-new-way-to-travel-across-the-us\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA new hiking route between Europe and Asia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210504-the-plan-to-connect-every-british-town\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe plan to connect every British town\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210517-the-sentiero-dei-parchi-a-new-hiking-trail-uniting-italy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA new hiking trail uniting Italy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUsing his encyclopaedic knowledge of the country's terrain and old Lebanese Army maps, Moufarege took the lead in delineating the trail's initial route. He became the first president of the LMT Association when the route opened in 2007.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThrough Liban Trek and the LMT, Moufarege is working to create a new national hiking culture that aims to teach Lebanese and international hikers about the country's diverse landscapes – from the wild oak and pine forests of the northern Akkar District to the lakes and vineyards of the Beqaa basin to the monasteries and chapels set into the mountainsides of the Qadisha Valley – while also to teaching Lebanon's often-fragmented sects more about each other.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"One of the things [Moufarege] did is to link hiking to local communities,\" said Omar Sakr, the current president of the LMT Association. \"He actually was behind the idea of identifying guest houses on the way to sleep in when people were hiking. It was not common before.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the LMT Association follows Moufarege's immersive, slow travel approach in the annual through-hikes it organises on the trail, with hikers spending each night in local accommodations and eating home-cooked meals with local residents. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERafic Saliba, who first joined Moufarege's hiking excursions some 20 years ago, grew up in the primarily Christian district of Matn in the mountains east of Beirut. In his village, an evening meal would typically be accompanied by a glass of wine or the anise-flavoured spirit \u003Cem\u003Earak\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. With Liban Trek, he fell in love with the dramatic peaks and valleys of the northern Akkar District – and in his stays in the Sunni villages there, where alcohol is off-limits, he found that he could talk and laugh just as easily over a cup of tea or coffee after a hearty meal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThrough exchanges like this, Moufarege is not only introducing international travellers to Lebanon, but also reintroducing the country's divergent communities to each other after years of sectarian violence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When you live with [different kinds of people], you have your own experience, you don't need to listen [to] what people tell you about them,\" Saliba said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor a country that's half the size of Wales, Lebanon is tremendously diverse. The country's population is split roughly evenly between Sunni Muslims, Shia Muslims and Christians, and the state officially recognises 18 different sects. Sectarian divisions played a role in the country's bloody civil war, and more than 30 years after the war ended, many of these divisions remain. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJoelle Rizk, a regular hiker with Liban Trek, recalled that as a girl, she was confined to her own neighbourhood in East Beirut. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There was the war – we couldn't even pass to West Beirut,\" she said. Now, on her weekly outings with Moufarege, she finds herself sitting on hillsides in areas that once would have been off-limits, chatting with shepherds about the weather and the local landscape. The experience has inspired in her a new love of her country, Rizk said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I was always sad that I was born Lebanese, you know, we had the war and hardship,\" she said. \"And every time I travelled, I was so sad when I came back to Lebanon. Now, I'm so happy that I'm Lebanese. This is all because of the hiking.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMoufarege's own passion for hiking began when he was a boy, spending summers in the northern mountain villages of Ehden and Hasroun with his family. \"Since my childhood, I was attracted by those peaks and high mountains, before even being able to hike,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis formal introduction to hiking began in the early 1970s when he joined a hiking group called Le Club des Vieux Sentiers (\"The Club of Old Footpaths\") that hiked along ancient trade routes. Even the outbreak of Lebanon's civil war in 1975 did not deter the club members' enthusiasm for hiking. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"During the war, we went where we could go,\" Moufarege recalled. \"During the day, we used to go up in the mountains and we would come back. There would be a lot of bombing and shelling in Beirut that we did not even notice. It kept us in good spirits, and we never stopped.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1997, seven years after the war ended, Moufarege chose to leave his job at an insurance company to pursue hiking full time. \"I finally decided that I had devoted so much of my time [to hiking] that I would give up my ordinary work and start Liban Trek.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe company's weekly guided group hiking trips quickly became popular for both social and practical reasons. Before the creation of the LMT, many of the Lebanon's trails were unmarked paths worn by shepherds and other locals trekking between villages. Moufarege and the other guides would keep hikers on course, while also keeping them safe from the unexploded remnants of the war. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENorbert Schiller started joining the Liban Trek hikes in the early 2000s after a close call in which he and a friend unwittingly hiked onto a field full of undetonated landmines before being alerted to the danger by a group of nearby goat herders. Although other hiking groups have since sprung up in Lebanon catering to a younger, more social media-savvy trekkers, Schiller noted that Moufarege \"has got this incredible loyal following like myself. People say to me, 'Why don't you hike with somebody else?' I say, 'Well, I can't. I feel kind of indebted to him.'\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond Moufarege's impressive knowledge of the terrain, Schiller explained that he has an uncanny ability to connect with anyone, on any trail in the country. While some hiking guides prefer to stick to areas where their own sect is present, Schiller said, Moufarege \"looks at Lebanon as being one\" and is never afraid to talk to the local people. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"He's always the first one to go and introduce himself to a shepherd, or a militia man or a UN soldier,\" Schiller said. \"I feel very safe with him in the mountains. He knows everything and everybody.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to LMT Association officials, before the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Ftopics\u002Fc8qy8zrj69et\u002Flebanon-protests\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emass protests\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and economic crisis that began in late 2019, and the pandemic and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-middle-east-58076999\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBeirut port explosion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2020, Lebanon had become an increasingly popular destination for international hikers. While foreign tour groups have not been coming over the past two years, Moufarege said he has been pleasantly surprised to see how many international visitors continue to travel to Lebanon on their own. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen asked why international hikers should explore Lebanon, Moufarege ticked off a long list: the varied terrain and flora in a small geographic area, the historical sites and the cuisine and hospitality of the Lebanese people, among other things. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Lebanon is a very nice destination for hiking, a fantastic one I would say, and this is my personal aim: to make it a worldwide destination,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-11-04T15:06:02Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A country being unified through hiking","headlineShort":"A nation you can walk from end to end","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"34.2990","longitude":"35.8089","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Decades after a civil war littered its landscape and scarred its national psyche, Lebanon is using hiking to teach tourists about the country, and its people more about themselves.","summaryShort":"This 470-km path connects more than 75 ethnically diverse towns","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-11-03T19:44:08.788984Z","entity":"article","guid":"2de12ffc-911a-4f5f-8017-3fa51f16e6f1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking","modifiedDateTime":"2021-11-04T13:49:35.889651Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135646},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity","_id":"61b7b2e445ceed40607e54fd","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmarta-vidal"],"bodyIntro":"This small Jordanian city where minarets and church towers share the skyline was deemed a \"place of tolerance and urban hospitality\" by Unesco.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe dawn call to prayer echoed through a still sleepy valley before the first rays of sun started illuminating golden limestone houses clustered on the slopes of three mountains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EAllahu Akbar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (\"God is great\"), the voice of the \u003Cem\u003Emuezzin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E rose up above the domes of the city. \"\u003Cem\u003EHayya 'ala-s-salah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (\"Hurry to the prayer\"), called loudspeakers from the minarets that dot the rugged landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMoments later, the city's winding streets filled with the ring of church bells announcing the morning mass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe were in As-Salt, the Middle East's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F689\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Enewest Unesco World Heritage site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. This small Jordanian city where minarets and church towers share the skyline was deemed a \"place of tolerance and urban hospitality\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocated at the crossroads of trade and pilgrimage between the Mediterranean Sea and the Arabian Peninsula, As-Salt grew into a thriving town in the late 19th Century during a period of reforms intended to \"modernise\" the Ottoman Empire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the city's historic centre, hundreds of heritage limestone buildings – dating to the late 19th and the early 20th Centuries – with arched doorways, carved columns and high windows glowed in the sun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b8lnzd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Thaira Arabiyat embroiders the hems of a scarf in her shop","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The yellow stone buildings are important, but they're not the reason why As-Salt is so unique,\" said Thaira Arabiyat, a shop owner who trains local women in traditional needlework, as she poured me a cup of coffee fragrant with cardamom.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe sat surrounded by embroidered dresses and scarves at her small shop in the city centre, where I first found her sewing the knotted fringes of a \u003Cem\u003Eshemagh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a traditional Jordanian scarf. She interrupted her work to tell me more about her hometown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What makes this city so special is the people here, their kindness","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"What makes this city so special is the people here, their kindness,\" said Arabiyat after filling my cup a second time. She then asked me, \"Did you have breakfast? Come eat with me.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile exploring the city's winding streets and narrow alleys, I received repeated invitations for lunch, coffee or tea. Traditions of hospitality and generosity towards visitors have deep roots in As-Salt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor centuries, the city was an important stop for merchants and pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem, Damascus, Baghdad or Mecca. Residents would welcome visitors and offer them food and lodging.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the 19th Century, As-Salt became the region's administrative headquarters, attracting merchants from different religious and cultural backgrounds. Many ended up settling in the hillside town, creating prosperous neighbourhoods where local Bedouin tribes mixed with Levantine traders and craftsmen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b8m28h"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"As-Salt has about 650 significant historical buildings with European and Ottoman styles","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"As-Salt became a meeting place between east and west, between the desert and the urban centres,\" said Ayman Abu Rumman, former director of tourism at the local Balqa governorate (one of Jordan's 12 governorates), adding that the city's diversity is reflected in its architecture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe best example of the city's blend of Ottoman styles, European influences and local traditions might be the sumptuous \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitas-salt.com\u002Fen\u002FExperinces\u002F55\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAbu Jaber House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, built in local limestone with Italian frescoed ceilings, Art Nouveau stained glass windows, ornamented columns and ceramic tiles from Syria. The house belonged to Abu Jaber, a wealthy merchant family who settled in As-Salt at the end of the 19th Century. In 2009, the building was converted into a museum that takes visitors through the history and traditions of the Ottoman town.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Amman was chosen the capital of the Emirate of Transjordan in 1928, As-Salt lost its regional importance. Spared the intense urbanisation of Amman, As-Salt has managed to retain its character.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Jordanian architect Rami Daher, who prepared the city's nomination file for World Heritage listing, the city is unique not just because of the historic limestone buildings, but also because of the way it has preserved traditions of hospitality and tolerance over the centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b8m20r"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"As-Salt residents put up a sofa where they meet to play manqala, a popular board game","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The topography of the city has fostered a sense of community and proximity. Neighbours live very close to each other and support each other in many different ways,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA network of interlinked stairways, shared courtyards and public squares has encouraged the development of a tolerant, multi-faith society and brought a sense of belonging to a shared space. Most of the traditional buildings feature communal courtyards or terraces where neighbours can cook, eat and drink together.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe railway that nited Islam\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Bedouin answer to barbecue\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA country being unified through hiking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"People here still live like they are part of the same family, there is no segregation between them,\" said Abu Rumman as we sat together in a room at the Abu Jaber museum with a panoramic view of the city's mountains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe gestured towards the square across from the museum, where elderly men from different backgrounds meet every day to play rounds of backgammon and \u003Cem\u003Emanqala\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an ancient board game popularised by the Ottomans. He then pointed to the mosque and church in front of it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b8lply"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hammam street is a busy alleyway full of shops and is named after old Turkish baths","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The church is facing the mosque and they share the same entrance,\" he said. \"Muslims and Christians participate in each other's celebrations. They share what they have with their neighbours.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is perhaps most evident in the city's oldest church. Built in 1682 around a cave where it is said Saint George appeared to a shepherd, the church is known in Arabic as Al-Khader, an Islamic figure syncretised with Saint George in the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Christians and Muslims both go there to pray, everyone is welcome","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe church's vaulted stone interior is full of icons and mosaics that depict Saint George slaying dragons, and what remains of the cave is visited by people from different background who come to light candles and leave handwritten wishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Christians and Muslims both go there to pray, everyone is welcome,\" said Sabreen Dababneh, who works in the neighbouring Orthodox Church, Dormition of Virgin Mary.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDababneh told me this interfaith harmony is what makes As-Salt so special.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The church keeper who works with me, Ali, is a Muslim,\" she said. \"There are no differences between us. We live here as brothers and sisters.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":true,"displayDate":"2021-12-22T20:52:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"As-Salt: The Middle East's city of tolerance and generosity","headlineShort":"A world heritage city of tolerance","image":["p0b8m25j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Occupied since the Iron Age, As-Salt became a thriving trade centre","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"32.032393","longitude":"35.655972","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Occupied since the Iron Age, As-Salt became a thriving trade centre","promoImage":["p0b8m25j"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180716-the-railway-that-united-islam","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180903-zarb-the-bedouin-answer-to-barbecue","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This small Jordanian city where minarets and church towers share the skyline was deemed a \"place of tolerance and urban hospitality\" by Unesco.","summaryShort":"Interfaith harmony is what makes As-Salt so special","tag":["tag\u002Fcultural-traditions"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-13T20:53:48.90163Z","entity":"article","guid":"92771c1e-305e-45d9-91b5-30594559ed10","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity","modifiedDateTime":"2021-12-22T15:37:31.909394Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211213-as-salt-the-middle-easts-city-of-tolerance-and-generosity","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fjordan","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmiddle-east"],"destinationStat":"middle-east_jordan_middle-east","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135645},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy","_id":"6183c24d45ceed57d776b997","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Although these mysterious formations have appeared worldwide, south-west England is the unlikely world capital of crop circles, baffling locals and farmers alike.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEars of wheat prickled my shins and the sun beat down on my neck as I trudged through the tractor lines of a golden field on Wiltshire's Hackpen Hill. It was August – the height of crop circle season – and I'd been directed here by frenzied online reports of a new formation, which had appeared, as they are wont to do, overnight; apparently unseen by observers. From the ground, I could make out nothing but intersecting lines of trampled wheat – but photographed from above the pattern resembled a crosshair.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWas this the nexus for some kind of potent Earth energy? Or, terrifyingly, a target for extra-terrestrial weaponry? In this instance, something more mundane. \"That's the logo of the Barge Inn down in Honeystreet,\" chuckled a fellow visitor, a potbellied man in a Dark Side of the Moon T-shirt. \"Probably man-made, this one.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough such formations have appeared worldwide, from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-us-canada-25557319\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECalifornia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thejakartapost.com\u002Fnews\u002F2011\u002F01\u002F25\u002Fmysterious-crop-circle-found-farmer-yogyakarta.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erice paddies of Indonesia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, south-west England is the world capital of crop circles. They are particularly concentrated in the county of Wiltshire, where a treasure trove of ancient history includes the Neolithic sites of Stonehenge and Avebury – both crop circle hotspots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECarving artwork into the landscape is an age-old tradition in these parts; chalk horses adorn eight hillsides in Wiltshire; while the UK's oldest geoglyph, the stunning Bronze Age \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.uk\u002Fwhite-horse-hill\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUffington White Horse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, sits just across the border in Oxfordshire. Reports of mysterious patterns appearing in wheat, barley and corn fields in the area began to circulate in the 1970s, but it was in the late '80s that the phenomenon exploded. Circles began to appear more frequently and became far more ornate: some resembled \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.livescience.com\u002F26540-crop-circles.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etrippy fractals\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; others rune-like hieroglyphs; others stylised animals recalling those of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-latin-america-54593295\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENazca Lines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Peru.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Flattened wheat forming Hakpen Hill crop circle, Wiltshire","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe intricacy and size of the formations, coupled with the fact that they would appear overnight, seemingly out of nowhere, baffled locals and farmers alike. In 1996, a crop circle \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.livescience.com\u002F26540-crop-circles.html\"\u003Eappeared opposite Stonehenge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E depicting a mathematical fractal called a Julia set; a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Fbooks\u002F2020\u002Fjul\u002F13\u002Fmichael-glickman-obituary\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esimilar formation that emerged on Milk Hill in 2001\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was one of the largest ever, stretching 900ft. A 2008 formation near the Iron Age hill fort of Barbury Castle required \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.telegraph.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fnewstopics\u002Fhowaboutthat\u002F2144652\u002FMost-complex-crop-circle-ever-discovered-in-British-fields.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edecoding by an astrophysicist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who concluded that it was a geometric representation of the first 10 digits of pi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe phenomenon peaked in the 1990s and early 2000s, but continues today; an average of 30 crop circles appear each year in the UK, around 80% of them in Wiltshire. Formations reported \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ukcropcircles.co.uk\u002F?page=crop-circles\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ein 2021\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have included a hexagonal pattern overlaid with spirals in Avebury, and a pattern of concentric \"bubbles\" in Tidworth Down. Crop circle season usually begins at the end of May, with the first ripening of the barley, and ends by September when the harvesting of the crops cuts away the circle canvasses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210606-cornwall-the-uks-forgotten-fifth-nation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK's forgotten 'fifth nation'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210729-the-british-shipwreck-that-changed-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe shipwreck that changed the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210715-the-contentious-origins-of-englands-famous-pudding\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEngland's disputed national treasure\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the number of crop circles has grown, so has the mythology surrounding them. Some invoke the theory of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20191104-the-ancient-network-that-links-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eley lines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: mystical seams of spiritual energy that intersect at sacred sites like Avebury and Stonehenge. Others claim that the circles are created by an extra-terrestrial intelligence attempting to warn humanity about climate change, nuclear war and similar existential threats. One even appeared in May 2020 in the shape of a coronavirus, leading to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=oDhBwt-fFok\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efeverish speculation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that crop circles are trying to give us clues about immunology and Covid-19.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmong those who discount the alien hypothesis, a common theory is that human circle makers \"tap into\" some kind of collective consciousness, perhaps explaining the prevalence in crop circles of universal mathematical patterns that also occur in nature – the fractal branching of snowflakes and blood vessels and the spiralling shells of molluscs, for example.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A common theory is that human circle makers \"tap into\" some kind of collective consciousness, perhaps explaining the prevalence in crop circles of universal mathematical patterns that also occur in nature","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cropcircleaccess.com\u002Finformation\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EThe community of seekers who devote their time to researching the paranormal possibilities of crop circles are known as \"croppies\". Eminent among them is Monique Klinkenbergh, who left behind a life in art publishing in the Netherlands to establish the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cropcircleaccess.com\u002Finformation\u002F\"\u003ECrop Circle Exhibition & Information Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in the Wiltshire village of Honeystreet. This tiny hamlet has become an unlikely hub for paranormal research; in addition to Klinkenbergh's exhibition centre, it is home to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthebargeinnhoneystreet.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBarge Inn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where croppies gather to swap reports of new crop circles and speculate on their origins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"White Horse on Cherhill Down, Wiltshire","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fphysicsworld.com\u002Fa\u002Fcoming-soon-to-a-field-near-you\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EKlinkenbergh's life changed in 2007 when she saw a picture of an ornate geometric crop circle. \"Having a background in art, I failed to understand how 13-fold geometry could appear in a cornfield in such a short time span, in darkness, on uneven terrain and unnoticed,\" she said. \"The more I learnt about the phenomenon, the more I was amazed. Credible people were witnessing incredible things.\" She has now devoted her time to the study of one of England's most enduring mysteries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EReports of cameras suddenly breaking and car engines turning themselves on in the vicinity of crop circles are common. \"I've seen several orbs of light,\" said Klinkenbergh. \"I once saw a UFO; not a classic flying saucer, but a strange object hanging stationary in the air and eventually flying away with enormous speed. According to locals, these lights and strange objects have been witnessed for centuries.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen there are the sceptics. As long ago as the 19th Century, scientist John Rand Capron described basic flattened circles in crops and suggested they could be caused by \"cyclonic wind\", a theory later \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fphysicsworld.com\u002Fa\u002Fcoming-soon-to-a-field-near-you\u002F\"\u003Eechoed by Stephen Hawking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but this does not explain the complex formations more common today. \"The true course of meteorological research got overwhelmed by the efforts of hoaxers,\" the Tornado and Storm Research Organisation (TORRO) told me in a statement. \"All the complex circles of the last 30 years are manmade.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"According to locals, these lights and strange objects have been witnessed for centuries","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EForemost among the hoaxers are Doug Bower and Dave Chorley, who in 1991 claimed to have created hundreds of circles using ropes to measure the formations and wooden planks to flatten the crops. They \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=dYV_zpCXYtc\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edemonstrated this technique\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for waiting television crews – but not everyone is convinced by their evidence. \"Some of the formations are so intricate and so big that I can't see two people doing them,\" said Tim Carson, a farmer in the Wiltshire village of Alton Barnes. \"Some of them are 300m long and they go over the brow of a hill. How would you know the other person's doing the same thing you are?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Neolithic standing stones at Avebury at sunrise","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECarson is more qualified than most to comment, having seen hundreds of crop circles appear in his fields – ravaging thousands of pounds worth of crops in the process. It all began in 1990, when a famous formation known as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-wiltshire-33649458\"\u003EEastfield Pictogram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E appeared overnight in one of Carson's fields. It caught the attention of the world's press, and a photograph of the crop circle was even used as cover art by Led Zeppelin. \"Within days we had thousands of people turning up,\" Carson said. \"We charged people a pound a time, had keyrings and T-shirts made. It became probably our most profitable quarter of an acre ever.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo some, this supports the theory that crop circles are nothing more than a money-making enterprise between the hoaxers, farmers and photographers. The process was explained to me as follows by circle maker Dene Hine: \"Circle makers make a formation; drone pilot flies the formation; [they then use] social media platforms to spam all the pages with videos. Each video can make £500 from YouTube alone.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESocial media is not just a marketplace for the crop circle business. It is a battleground for the toxic, parasitic relationship between the croppies and the hoaxers: conjoined twins who profess to hate one another yet feed on the other for their existence. To the sceptical mind, after all, there would be no crop circles without the hoaxers. Yet, without the mystique and intrigue generated by the croppies, it's hard to imagine the hoaxers would bother at all. Nevertheless, barbs are exchanged, and not just virtually; more than one croppie told me they had been physically threatened by hoaxers and photographers. \"I've seen fistfights break out,\" said Kathy Rossellini, an energy healer and psychic medium who I met at the Crop Circle Exhibition & Information Centre. \"But I don't get involved with all that. It's been hijacked by ego.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere is much that remains enigmatic about crop circles, even to farmers like Carson, who has tired of the whole thing and now deters visitors by cutting out any formations as soon as they appear. He spoke of watches stopping inside circles and recording equipment inexplicably failing during a visit from the BBC's Newsround in 1991. He has allowed companies including Nissan to build corporate crop circles in his fields for use in advertising, but claims that just a basic design took professionals 12 hours of daylight to produce, in contrast to the suggestion that hoaxers produce circles quickly in the dead of night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Crop circles in wheat fields near Alton Barnes, Wiltshire","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Some of the circles are mysterious, without doubt,\" he said. \"Sometimes the crops appear woven, lying one way and another on top of each other. That would take hours and hours to do by hand.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat, then, to make of crop circles? Are they the work of human hands, driven by some emergent cosmic subconsciousness; aliens; hoaxers? Does it matter?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Even in the manmade circles, a phenomenon exists, which for me is where the mystery lies,\" said Rossellini. \"People say to me, 'Are they real?' Of course they are. You're standing in it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-08-23T23:10:26Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"England's crop circle controversy","headlineShort":"England's crop circle controversy","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Crop circle in Wiltshire, UK","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.3531","longitude":"1.8508","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Crop circle in Wiltshire, UK","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although these mysterious formations have appeared worldwide, south-west England is the unlikely world capital of crop circles, baffling locals and farmers alike.","summaryShort":"They're one of the UK's most enduring mysteries","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-08-22T23:10:59.934418Z","entity":"article","guid":"35cc5a5a-41e2-4846-8b93-5f9671a874af","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:13:00.95367Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135647},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad","_id":"6183c23945ceed4f991e2746","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"An English market town celebrates the punchy plant with an extravagant annual watercress festival and pristine heritage railway.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a sunny July day and I felt as though I was standing in a 19th-Century film set. The whistle of the steam train sounded as I waited on the perfectly preserved Victorian platform at Alresford station in Hampshire. The pale yellow and green station palette, barley twist lamp posts and original signage was virtually the same scene as 100 years ago, and colourful blooms amplified the serene setting. The historical hissing sound marked the beginning of my journey back in time to when the county's famed watercress began to spread nationwide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough watercress may not be frequently used in many countries, in Britain, where it has been cultivated commercially for hundreds of years, it is a commonplace and popular addition at mealtimes. Related to the mustard family, its Latin name, \u003Cem\u003ENasturtium officinale\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, is aptly translated as \"nose twister\", which anyone crunching on its punchy, peppery leaves can attest. Traditionally it's used as the base of watercress soup or to perk up salads and sandwiches, while more modern uses include watercress pesto or hummus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWatercress is undeniably nutritious. Rich in vitamin A (from beta-carotene) and vitamin C, a source of calcium, iron and vitamin E, it also contains useful amounts of vitamin K and vitamin B6. It was known for its health benefits by the ancient Greeks and Romans, and named as a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wwf.org.uk\u002Fsites\u002Fdefault\u002Ffiles\u002F2019-02\u002FKnorr_Future_50_Report_FINAL_Online.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFuture 50 Foods in a 2019 report by the World Wildlife Federation and Knorr\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which considered it a \"superfood\" and noted its versatility: \"both the delicate green leaves and paler stems can be eaten sautéed or fresh, and are great mixed in soups, salads, tarts and omelettes\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe handsome market town of Alresford has been the home of watercress for centuries, with the flat, chalky downlands offering the perfect conditions for the plants to flourish. It's known as \"the watercress capital of the UK,\" said Andy Elworthy, senior farms manager at local producer \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vitacress.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVitacress Salads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. He explained that the area provides a constant supply of crystal-clear chalk spring water in which the cress grows, containing essential minerals such as calcium, which is required by the plant. \"The water comes out the ground at a constant 10 to 11C,\" he added, \"which is necessary to protect the crop during winter and cool it in summer.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWatercress was far too perishable to be transported by horse and cart along poor roads since its delicate leaves are best delivered quickly for freshness. It was the opening of Britain's public railways in the 19th Century – particularly the Mid-Hants railway link in 1865, which connected Alresford to London – that ensured its nationwide success. The new rail links meant that watercress could be rapidly transported to the capital and beyond; and while the Mid-Hants railway transported freight from turnips to racehorses, it was soon dubbed the \"Watercress Line\" owing to the huge quantities sent to London's Covent Garden Market each day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Steam train on the heritage Watercress Line, Alresford","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Watercress is equally a symbol of poverty and of great entrepreneurship in the history of London,\" said culinary historian Regula Ysewijn. In fact, watercress was nicknamed \"poor man's bread\" by the Victorians, and street sellers in London sold bunches of it in paper cones to be eaten as a snack, jazzing up what would have been, for many, a plain diet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Watercress is equally a symbol of poverty and of great entrepreneurship in the history of London","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIts popularity continued over the decades. During both world wars, watercress sandwiches in Britain at high tea became a national institution as people rejoiced in homegrown, healthy produce. And in 2003, in a bid to get Brits to eat more greens and to view watercress as more than a garnish, the campaign \"Not Just a Bit on the Side\" from British farmers restarted its notoriety. Even today in the most quintessential place for afternoon tea in London – \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theritzlondon.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Ritz\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – an egg mayonnaise, chopped shallots and watercress brioche roll always features on the menu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190424-the-english-vegetable-picked-by-candlelight\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe English vegetable picked by candlelight\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190710-the-strange-story-of-britains-oldest-sweet\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe strange story of Britain's oldest sweet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210810-englands-delectable-fleeting-vegetable\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEngland's delectable, fleeting vegetable\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the 20-mile Mid-Hants line was closed in 1973 due to British Rail discontinuing loss-making branch lines, volunteers raised finances and eventually reopened it in 1985 as a heritage line, running a 10-mile route from Alresford to Alton.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, visitors flock to Alresford to travel on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwatercressline.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWatercress Line\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, lured by the quintessentially English countryside and Georgian town with pastel-coloured mansions, as well as for the opportunity to learn about the history of the railway and its historical link to watercress.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring my July visit, I noticed the original sidings that would have linked the main railway track to the busy goods yard, in what is now the station car park. This is where the watercress would have been unloaded onto train wagons by farmers, who would bring the watercress by horse and cart from local farms and pack it into wooden boxes with ice and water to prevent it from perishing. A handwritten note detailing the watercress' final destination would be attached to the outside of the wagon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The railway allowed the commercialism of watercress, which occurs naturally in the area, and the cress was taken to London, Southampton, Nottingham and Northampton in four to five hours,\" said Simon Baggott, general manager of the Watercress Line. \"We think Amazon is amazing, but railways were delivering fast even in those days.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBaggott told me that out of their fleet of steam and diesel locomotives, the oldest train in working condition here is 97 years old and the station is still lit by gas. \"The train wagons that were used were built in Eastleigh, 15 miles away; we have an example of a typical wagon from that period – all wooden apart from the wheels and suspension items. They were much smaller than today, so if you didn't have a locomotive, you could use a horse to shunt the wagons around,\" he explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Morris dancers and entertainers at the Alresford Watercress Festival","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe entire hop-on-and-off train journey is curated with care, from the smartly dressed train conductor waving us off from the platform to the lovingly restored wooden cabin to the jam-packed information boards, education rooms and viewing galleries illuminating the past. Although it wasn't open when I visited, due to Covid, Baggott told me that the onboard dining service – called the Watercress Bell – always serves a watercress course, whether a crisp salad in summer or vibrant soup in winter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those who prefer walking, The Watercress Way charity, established in 2016, promotes public awareness and use of the old Watercress Line (and the defunct Didcot-Newbury-Southampton Railway) with a 27-mile waymarked circular route for walkers. Running alongside disused sections of track, the route passes through magnificent rolling chalk Hampshire downland as well as Alresford itself, where you can see the buildings that rose from the ashes of the great fires of the 17th Century and, on the outskirts, a 1980 eel trapping house and disused watercress beds where locals would have left honesty boxes outside years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is only fitting that watercress is celebrated here with an extravagant event, and the\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.watercressfestival.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E Alresford Watercress Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which takes place each May, does just that. It started life in 2006 with just a few traders; 15 years on, it covers the four main streets in the town centre and features more than 180 stalls from local artisan food to crafts. Highlights include the Watercress King and Queen parade with a horse and cart holding a newly harvested crop, watercress recipe demonstrations and a Watercress Eating Championship (last year's winner Glen Walsh ate an 80g bag in 27.75 seconds in a socially distanced competition in someone's back garden). There is also a \"Most Awesome Use Of Watercress\" contest, with past entrants presenting watercress hummus, pork and apple watercress sausages and watercress pesto-filled scotch eggs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisitors will also find watercress on many local menus. Whilst eating a cheese and watercress scone from a nearby farm shop, my eyes came alive and my nose wrinkled with the tingling peppery taste. My thoughts turned back to where my journey began, onboard The Watercress Line, where the window views over watercress beds served as a picturesque reminder of the town's long history with the ingredient.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Historic photo of watercress workers in Alresford, Hampshire","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-09-27T10:17:09Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"England's 'nose-twisting' superfood salad","headlineShort":"The UK's love of 'poor man's bread'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Farmer examining his watercress crop for quality control before harvest. Alresford","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.0856","longitude":"1.1656","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Farmer examining his watercress crop for quality control before harvest. Alresford","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"An English market town celebrates the punchy plant with an extravagant annual watercress festival and pristine heritage railway.","summaryShort":"It's now deemed a superfood","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-26T23:17:44.935158Z","entity":"article","guid":"d419e8a4-85c9-4762-9d0a-61ab0874482f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-03T04:14:13.176862Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135647},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars","_id":"6183c27545ceed649652d694","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In 1888, Bertha Benz set out to prove that her husband Carl’s Motorwagen was safe and ready to sell. Fast forward, and Germany is still the country of premium cars and car culture.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the edge of the Black Forest in south-western Germany, Edgar Meyer turned onto a medieval road barely the width of an ATV. Vines curled overhead and drooped down over discreet garden gates, while birdsong and the hum of Meyer’s vintage BMW were the only sounds. We were driving through the busy town of Dossenheim, yet we were completely alone on this peaceful little lane.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETechnically, the lane is a slight detour off the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bertha-benz.de\u002Findexen.php?inhalt=home\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBertha Benz Memorial Route\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a themed drive conceived by Meyer. But according to the retired sales executive, it’s the closest thing to experiencing the primitive carriageways that Bertha and her teenage sons encountered in August 1888 as they set out on the world’s first road trip in the world’s first petrol-powered car.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow Fiji changed the way we travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181024-the-ingenious-story-behind-michelin-stars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe ingenious story of Michelin stars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA treaty that changed how we travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo much of Bertha’s 194km round-trip drive between the Benz family home in the city of Mannheim and her mother’s place in Pforzheim, typifies the fearlessness of automotive pioneers. Her ride – taken without husband Carl Benz’s knowledge – was the Benz Motorwagen No 3, a slightly tweaked version of Carl’s original Motorwagen, which had been patented in 1886, the year generally agreed as the debut of the automobile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBertha had invested her wedding dowry to help finance her husband’s work, but the Motorwagen was struggling, barred from Mannheim’s roads by skeptical government officials (one disastrous early test drive had even ended with horses and dogs, terrified at the motor noise, bolting into the crowds). So taking the prototype out for a highly illegal spin was both a radical declaration that it was safe and ready to sell, and a private message to Carl, willing him the courage to carry on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It wasn’t only Carl who invented the automobile; it was the team of Carl and Bertha","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“It wasn’t only Carl who invented the automobile; it was the team of Carl and Bertha. They both believed in the Motorwagen and were constantly working on it together,” said Meyer, who researched and mapped the route – which loops through the various cities, towns and villages that Bertha visited – in 2008 as a passion project. “I wanted to give her the place in history that she deserves.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn an era before road maps and GPS, Bertha had only rivers and railroad tracks to guide her to her mother’s home. Imagining her jostling over blackened cobblestones in a buggy with wooden wheels and a 2-hp, four-stroke engine, I realised how brave she was. Maybe a little crazy, too. And maybe that’s the reason her plan succeeded.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EExploring Germany’s place in automotive history was what brought me to the industrial heartland of the south. I was road-tripping through Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria – the states where Germany’s luxury carmakers are based – visiting an extraordinary concentration of car-culture attractions and museums. “When you dissect a country from a completely different perspective, like automotive history, you’re really discovering it anew,” Meyer said as we navigated the countryside. “That’s the adventure.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBertha’s road trip jumpstarted the era of the automobile. Instead of ending up in history’s dustbin, by the end of 1888, the Motorwagen No 3 had gone into production, and by 1900, Benz & Cie had become the world’s largest automaker.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFast forward to today, and Germany is still \u003Cem\u003Ethe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E country of premium cars and car culture. According to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flibrary.fes.de\u002Fpdf-files\u002Fwiso\u002F14450.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published by German think tank Friedrich-Ebert-Stiftung in 2018, over half of passenger vehicles destined for Europe and almost two-thirds of all luxury cars sold worldwide were German-designed in 2016. The question is: why?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“You could say ‘something was in the air’ across Europe,” said Gerhard Heidbrink of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mercedes-benz.com\u002Fen\u002Fclassic\u002Fhistory\u002Fcorporate-archives\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMercedes-Benz Corporate Archives\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, referring to mechanisation taking hold of 19th-Century early-industrialised Britain, France and Germany. Meanwhile in Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria, complex inheritance laws were splitting family farms into ever-shrinking parcels, making agriculture unprofitable. Successive generations had to get creative in earning a living. So when Carl Benz graduated and began working as a mechanical engineer, he found himself surrounded by fellow inventors within a region that was, by his time, a hot-bed of entrepreneurship and heavy industry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECertain classic German traits may have influenced the automakers’ success, too – qualities such as \u003Cem\u003ELeidenschaft\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (passionate fervour) and \u003Cem\u003EDetailverliebtheit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (attention to detail). For instance, at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.en.technoseum.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETechnoseum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Mannheim, an authentic Porsche factory car-assembly line from 1990 has been reassembled piece by piece as a life-sized diorama – right down to the bottles of beer that workers received during shifts. If that isn’t Detailverliebtheit, what is? And not for nothing did Gottlieb Daimler – founder of Daimler-Motoren-Gesellschaft (DMG), today Daimler AG, creator of the Mercedes-Benz brand – and his lifelong business associate Wilhelm Maybach coin the corporate motto \u003Cem\u003EDas Beste oder nichts \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(‘The best, or nothing’).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“Typically, good isn’t good enough,” mused a tour guide from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.audi.de\u002Fde\u002Fforen\u002Fen\u002Faudi-forum-ingolstadt\u002Faudi-museum-mobile.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAudi’s heritage museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the Bavarian city of Ingolstadt. “Not to say all 82 million of us are like this,” said another from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.porsche.com\u002Fmuseum\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPorsche Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Stuttgart, “but to be \u003Cem\u003Efleissig \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(industrious) is a very German quality and something we strive for.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the German auto industry progressed, it was shaped by the ebb and flow of companies starting up and winding down, merging and demerging, always fighting for top engineering talent. Corporate rivalries have alternated between fierce and forgotten – such as when arch-competitors Benz, based in Mannheim, and Daimler in Stuttgart, finally merged their companies in 1926. However, allegiances are as well-entrenched as ever. “If you don’t want trouble here, just don’t say Daimler invented the automobile,” quipped a tour guide in Mannheim, only somewhat in jest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShifting rivalries that shook up the status quo weren’t necessarily a bad thing; often they had the effect of spurring the innovators on. The typical automotive pioneer in southern Germany was a \u003Cem\u003ETüftler \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(tinkerer), doggedly improving through trial and error, explained Frank Jung, Porsche AG’s head archivist. “After all, if you aren’t striving for perfection, there’s no need to tinker.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you aren’t striving for perfection, there’s no need to tinker","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt Germany’s automotive heritage museums, you begin to understand how these inventors followed up the Motorwagen with an even longer list of automotive firsts. Among them were Daimler and Maybach’s carburetor, which made it possible to use gasoline as fuel; the Daimler company’s first Mercedes 35 PS, which, in 1900, introduced the shape and concept of the modern car; Porsche AG’s iconic 1948 Porsche 356 inspired by the simplicity of German Bauhaus design; BMW’s first electric concept car, the 1972 BMW 1602e; the 2019 Audi A8’s advanced AI-assisted self-driving. And on, and on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EApart from a burst of French inventiveness in the 1890s, German manufacturers have remained at the industry’s forefront. They’ve done it through ingenuity, shaping car development with each successive era, said Heidbrink: “Innovation and luxury have always gone hand in hand.” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor instance, each year Audi AG workers around the world volunteer thousands of ideas for improvement. Many of those suggestions end up implemented at Audi Forum Ingolstadt, the global headquarters and main assembly plant an hour north of Munich.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPeople here clearly share a visceral passion for cars – making them, improving them, but also enjoying them and enjoying the drive. “Germany, in the summer, is the perfection of the beautiful,” author Mark Twain wrote about his extensive travels in the country’s south-west. The view out my windshield was of precision-edged farmland, yellow fields of rapeseed in full bloom, low mountain ridges and occasional patches of thick forest interspersed with castles, and medieval villages brimming with wood-beamed \u003Cem\u003EFachwerkhäuser\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (half-timbered houses). Compact, scenic, well-traversed by the Autobahn and secondary carriageways, it’s a landscape tailor-made for road tripping – and for Germans, an excuse to appreciate their inventions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECars are rooted far deeper in German culture than as a mere means of transport, confirmed Winfried A Seidel, who used proceeds from creating \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.veterama.de\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVeterama\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a classic car and auto-parts marketplace, to open the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mercedes-benz.com\u002Fen\u002Fclassic\u002Fcommunity\u002Fdr-carl-benz-car-museum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAutomuseum Dr Carl Benz\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the village of Ladenburg, where the Benzes eventually settled. “We are a nation of collectors, and I see a lot of very valuable cars on the road,” he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEn route from Ladenburg to Munich and the headquarters of BMW Group, I followed a short section of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.romantischestrasse.de\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERomantische Straße\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Romantic Road), Germany’s classic, roughly 350km-long scenic drive through Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd after a visit to the showrooms of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bmw-welt.com\u002Fen\u002Fexperience.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBMW Welt\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and its attached BMW Museum in Munich, the thrill of being able to wring every last RPM out of my rented Volkswagen Tiguan on the mighty Autobahn was the most fun I’ve had behind the wheel in years. To my surprise, speed limits did kick in at times on the national road system, and it was fascinating to watch a new legal limit appear, not on any road sign, but directly on the Tiguan’s dashboard – technology that’s surely years ahead of what I'd find in any rental fleet back home in Canada.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMore than a century after Bertha Benz invented road tripping, it seems Germans are still finding ways to perfect the drive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-08-22T18:39:18Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"How Germany became the country of cars","headlineShort":"How Germany became the country of cars","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In 1888, Bertha Benz set out to prove that her husband Carl’s Motorwagen was safe and ready to sell. Fast forward, and Germany is still the country of premium cars and car culture.","summaryShort":"One highly illegal road trip jumpstarted the era of the automobile","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2019-08-21T19:39:26.601837Z","entity":"article","guid":"bea27eae-74f8-429f-a250-40a5e6c07eeb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T00:19:07.584316Z","project":"travel","slug":"20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135647},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels","_id":"61bba5ea45ceed169d154f1a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fdaniel-stables"],"bodyIntro":"While \"vanlife\" is far better established in the US, on British shores the trend retains the enthusiastic camaraderie and frontier spirit of a new movement.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The whole time I was building the truck, I had the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.northcoast500.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorth Coast 500\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in my head; those beautiful landscapes,\" said \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.duckworthoverland.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETom Duckworth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who spent three years living in an ex-army truck he converted into a tiny home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It took two years before I managed to get up there, but when I did, it was amazing: 2,500 miles in 18 days, all the way up to and around the north coast of Scotland.\" Whisky tasting in Thurso, hikes through the Fairy Pools of Skye and spectacular hairpin drives on the Applecross peninsula lay ahead – not that it was a smooth ride all the way. \"The majority of it is single-track roads, so driving it in a 9.5-tonne truck with no power steering was… interesting.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESuch are the joys and challenges of life for a growing cohort of young Brits who are ditching the strictures of the 9-to-5 (not to mention council tax) and embracing \"vanlife\", converting vans and lorries into boho mobile homes and moving wherever the feeling takes them. The artistry of their builds and the beauty of their destinations are tailor-made for Instagram, where some 10 million posts bear the #vanlife hashtag – though the trend is far better established in the US than it is on British shores.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the UK, vanlife retains the enthusiastic camaraderie and frontier spirit of a new movement, and it has breathed new life into the staid image of traditional British campervanning, lending a voguish cachet to what was once the preserve of budget-conscious families and gently adventurous retirees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b7vlx1"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Man sitting on roof of truck playing guitar","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's hard to imagine a more British vanlife build than Duckworth's, which he christened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCFEhbCQBJbD\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGenghis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Housed in a decommissioned Bedford MJ British army truck, it recalls the study of an intrepid Victorian explorer with its wine-red Chesterfield sofa, copper kettle and vintage maps plastered on the walls. A bed swings down from the ceiling; there's a rooftop \"beer terrace\" complete with real ale tap; and solar panels generate more than enough electricity for a hot rain shower in the tiled bathroom, which is decked out in vintage brass fittings. It's all very professional, but the build involved more than a touch of the British tradition of \"make do and mend\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I had to be quite resourceful – at one point I was using beer cans to build the roof,\" said Duckworth. Half of what he used came out of skip bins; in all, he spent around £15,000 on the restoration. \"Not bad for a house,\" he pointed out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe coronavirus pandemic has only fuelled Britons' already burgeoning appetite for slower, more immersive travel. A 2019 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhiddenscotland.co\u002Flatest-survey-reveals-83-of-people-prefer-slow-travel-to-tick-box-tourism\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esurvey by Hidden Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E found that 83% of people prefer \"slow travel\" to \"tick-box tourism\"; while GlobalData \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.globaldata.com\u002Fslower-travel-methods-next-big-tourism-trend-sustainability-features-heavily-consumer-decisions\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econcluded in May 2021\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the increased hassle of international travel and a growing population of remote workers meant that longer trips, which foster \"a connection with local people, culture, food and music\", are set to become the norm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's a slower form of travel, which means you can enjoy the journey","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEnter: vanlife. \"It's a slower form of travel, which means you can enjoy the journey,\" Duckworth said. \"Go 50 miles a day, and you can bop in and out of loads of awesome places en route.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe environment is another matter of pressing concern for young Brits, 41% of whom said they wanted to be more environmentally and socially conscious on their travels \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.independent.co.uk\u002Fclimate-change\u002Fsustainable-living\u002Fyoung-adults-green-travel-environment-b1802413.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ein a recent poll\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Vanlife's future, like that of motoring generally, is electric, and forward-thinking vanlifers are also \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.floatingorb.earth\u002Fblog\u002Fvanlife-as-a-deaf-woman-in-a-biodiesel-westfalia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econverting diesel engines into biodiesel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, running on vegetable oil.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b7vlv7"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Van with back doors open to show styled interior parked in a field","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"There's been an awakening to climate change, and a desire to consume less in all aspects of our lives,\" said \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fchannel\u002FUCsdmVfN31z_pSCIH4_sWmCQ\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMatthew Payne\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an adventurer and filmmaker who, like Duckworth, has converted an ex-military truck into a home on wheels. \"Living in an old vehicle that has already lived a life and been saved from the scrapheap is far better for the environment than building and heating housing.\" It can also be very comfortable; while from the outside Payne's truck, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCPsxqQihXB7\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMatilda\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, has a brutish, militaristic aspect, its interior gingham cushions and rustic worktops recall a farmhouse kitchen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK's love of 'poor man's bread'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow Germany became the country of cars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEngland's crop circle controversy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch of vanlife's appeal lies in the opportunities it presents to learn new skills on the job, and the movement chimes with the British tradition of eccentric amateurism. It's easy to imagine that it attracts the same kind of people who would once have spent their weekends building \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-devon-23417142\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ejet-propelled shopping trolleys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or honing the perfect \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mirror.co.uk\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-news\u002Fwallace-gromit-style-machine-serves-8316768\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eall-in-one Wallace and Gromit-style breakfast machine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In vanlife, as in all things, mistakes are part of the journey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOr, as Duckworth put it, \"You need to mess things up and pipes need to explode for you learn how to do it better next time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVanlifers congregate to compare their builds and share stories of their adventures on the road at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.quirkycampers.com\u002Fuk\u002Fcampervan-festival\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECamp Quirky\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an annual festival in Northamptonshire where tents house workshops on solar panel installation, carpentry and insulation, among other essential van-building skills.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of those for whom the vanlife was a leap into the unknown is \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Finstagram.com\u002Ffreelance_amy\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmy Nicholson\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who tours the UK full time in her \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCQ_nQGvBveG\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econverted Vauxhall Vivaro\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Originally from Kent, Nicholson's first taste of van living was that classic Antipodean adventure: touring New Zealand in a campervan. She now works remotely as a freelance marketing consultant from wherever she's pitched up.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I fell in love with the simple life that vanlife brings,\" she said. \"Because you are living in such a small space you can't have that much stuff, so it makes me less materialistic. It allows me to travel and explore the world while still being able to have all my stuff together and work from the road.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b7vb4r"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Interior of van","imageGallery":["p0b7vb70"],"imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENicholson's homely, wood-panelled van has a bright pink feature wall depicting a woman on a surfboard – a nod to one of her passions, which vanlife allows her to indulge from Devon's southern beaches to Scotland's Dunnet Bay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You can enjoy a morning swim in the sea and be hiking on a mountain the same afternoon","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe UK's variety and compactness make it particularly well suited for vanlife adventures. \"It doesn't matter if you're more of a beach bum or a countryside lover,\" said Lindsay Berresford, founder of Camp Quirky. \"You can enjoy a morning swim in the sea and be hiking on a mountain the same afternoon.\" She explained that the UK's small size compared to the US or Canada means that you're never far from help in the event of a breakdown, and that you're always bumping into other vanlifers. There are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002Fvanlifemeetupuk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook groups\u003C\u002Fa\u003E aimed at helping vanlifers meet up while on the road, and Duckworth spoke of impromptu beach barbecues, ocean swims and surfing sessions with new friends who had parked their mobile home next to his.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Britain's landscapes may be tailor-made for the lifestyle, not all Britons look so kindly on it, according to Payne. \"Trying to live in the UK full time can have its issues. Many people are prejudiced towards people living in a van and will complain about you or make comments. Many car parks restrict campers. We are undesirables.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf vanlife still carries a tinge of outlaw excitement, that may diminish as the movement enters the mainstream. While for its full-time adherents it represents the ultimate bohemian lifestyle, a part-time taste of vanlife is becoming particularly sought after by Brits seeking domestic, socially distanced adventures as they emerge from a series of lockdowns.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b7vlts"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Red ex-military truck parked in a green field","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Campervan holidays encourage you to slow down and appreciate your own backyard and make the 'getting there' all part of the adventure,\" said Berresford. \"They allow you to be more spontaneous and discover new places that may not be typical tourist destinations.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey're also more sustainable, she added. \"Compare a family of four flying to Lanzarote for a week – flights alone will produce 8 tonnes of CO2. With a family of four hiring a campervan for a week, typically they will drive an average of 100 miles per day, producing just 0.22 tonnes of CO2. That's a 97% reduction. As a form of accommodation, they are very low energy and low impact. You are naturally encouraged to consider your water and electricity consumption more carefully.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhether as an all-in lifestyle or a weekend away, vanlife offers flexibility in a world where relying on fixed plans is increasingly imprudent. \"I don't have much of a plan,\" said Nicholson, \"but that is the beauty of the way I am living life at the moment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor her and a growing generation of intrepid British vanlifers, home, as the movement's mantra goes, is where you park it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-17T20:45:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The UK's tiny 'dream homes' on wheels","headlineShort":"The sexy side of British caravanning","image":["p0b7vlxt"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"View out of back of van onto the sea","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"55.3781","longitude":"3.4360","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"View out of back of van onto the sea","promoImage":["p0b7vb4r"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210822-englands-crop-circle-controversy","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210926-englands-beloved-nose-twisting-salad","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190821-how-germany-became-the-country-of-cars"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While \"vanlife\" is far better established in the US, on British shores the trend retains the enthusiastic camaraderie and frontier spirit of a new movement.","summaryShort":"It has the enthusiastic camaraderie and frontier spirit of a new movement","tag":["tag\u002Froad-trips","tag\u002Fcamping"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-16T20:47:30.552889Z","entity":"article","guid":"21c288d3-6582-4cbd-a29c-312db51ac623","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels","modifiedDateTime":"2021-12-17T04:03:46.457749Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211216-the-uks-tiny-dream-homes-on-wheels","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135647},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language","_id":"6183c29b45ceed7799049c3f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Doric, a little-known form of North East Scots, is undergoing a pandemic-inspired renaissance.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Slaverin, slubberin, gibberin, gabberin, roon wi a wallop, a sklyter, a sweel,” recited the poet. “Yonder’s the burn – in its bairnhood, it’s blabberin. Heich-lowpin puddock, wi virr in its heel…”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESheena Blackhall, a celebrated laureate from Garthdee, a suburb south of Aberdeen, was in her element performing the opening stanza of her poem. She was reading “Allt Darrarie”, her lyrical tribute to a stream in the East Grampians of Aberdeenshire, straining each syllable with a gruff rasp. “Now, did that make any sense to you?” she prompted, gently. “Ach, I widnae be surprised if it didn’t.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBlackhall, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.scottishpoetrylibrary.org.uk\u002Fpoet\u002Fsheena-blackhall\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eauthor of more than 1,400 poems, songs, stories and ballads\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – or “a creative screivin fellow”, as she puts it — is a native speaker of Doric, Scotland’s little-known fourth “language” after English, Gaelic and Scots. Colourful yet guttural, the rural north-east dialect is a subset of vernacular Scots, officially protected by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.coe.int\u002Fen\u002Fweb\u002Feuropean-charter-regional-or-minority-languages\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEuropean Charter for Regional or Minority Languages\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut it is also the one most Scotland natives have problems deciphering. Its ragged tones, cadences and irregular verbs are often mocked as unsophisticated and socially awkward.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Doric doesn’t have nearly the same prestige as English or Gaelic and it’s common for people to be embarrassed to speak it publicly","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis “mither tongue” (mother tongue) is spoken widely from Peterhead in Aberdeenshire to Nairn in the Highlands, where one in two people speak it, according to the University of Aberdeen. And yet it remains a paradox: it was once forbidden to be taught in schools and its currency is such that plenty of Scots do not even know Doric exists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn simple terms, Scotland is a country divided by common languages. Everyone speaks English, but the farther north you travel, the more Scots, Gaelic and Doric lilts fill the air. Scots is spoken by around a third of the population – with pronunciation, grammar and vocabulary differing from its English-language cousin – while indigenous Gaelic is a Celtic dialect of Irish descent and predominantly the tongue of the Outer Hebrides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDoric, however, is nudged to the north-east of the map, taking the building blocks of Scots, but rearranging them in its own inimitable manner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Doric doesn’t have nearly the same prestige as English or Gaelic and it’s common for people to be embarrassed to speak it publicly,” Blackhall told me. “We’re often accused of linguistic hypocrisy by switching to English to be understood, but this is more linguistic courtesy. I’ve been laughed at too many times to count for speaking Doric and that’s something we’ve all experienced in Aberdeenshire. It is snobbery and it is enough to make me want to give someone a ‘cloot aroon the lug’ (clip around the earhole).”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut it turns out the Doric-speaking community currently have plenty to shout about. For the dialect, maligned for so long, is undergoing a revival.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe green shoots to empower Doric speakers are plentiful. There is a new online \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.doricfuture.co.uk\u002Fdoric-tv\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETV station\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A new \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abdn.ac.uk\u002Fregistry\u002Fcourses\u002Fundergraduate\u002F2020-2021\u002Fethnology_and_folklore\u002Fef1005\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eundergraduate university degree course\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abdn.ac.uk\u002Felphinstone\u002Fpublic-engagement\u002FNESLB.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorth-East Scots language board\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abdn.ac.uk\u002Felphinstone\u002Fmap\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einteractive cultural map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to help visitors discover Doric’s living oral, cultural and social history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECreating art, music, literature and TV is about growing the Doric world and there is also a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdoricfilmfestival.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDoric Film Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as well as Doric-themed food and drink tours with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bothiesandbannocks.co.uk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBothies and Bannocks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Doric hip hop (courtesy of Aberdeen rapper \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fjackill.bandcamp.com\u002Falbum\u002Fa-day-with-the-jackal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJackill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.aberdeencity.gov.uk\u002FAAGM\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAberdeen Art Gallery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a proud champion of Doric culture, which reopened in November 2019 after a four-year restoration project.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven so, for visitors with an untrained ear, it is feasible to walk up and down Union Street in Aberdeen, admiring its silvery-grey granite steeples and spires, or hunt down the perfect Cullen Skink (smoked haddock soup) in Moray, and wonder if the dialect even existed. At times, this is a language lost inside most homes in the north-east.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDoric speakers aren’t like normal Scots language speakers, so many claim. No, their attachment to their dialect runs deeper. Blackhall describes it as a “tongue to be spoken around home and hearth in local communities”. Chris Foy, CEO of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitabdn.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVisit Aberdeenshire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, says the local lexicon is “tricky to understand but woven with complexities, glorious variances and brimming with the most wonderful, colourful expressions”. Dr Thomas McKean, director of the University of Aberdeen’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abdn.ac.uk\u002Felphinstone\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EElphinstone Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a centre for the study of ethnology and folklore, says it is “a window into who people in the north-east are”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200802-scotlands-10000-year-old-wild-heartland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOne of the last wild places in Britain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180703-why-no-one-speaks-indonesias-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA language people don't want to speak\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210222-ghillies-scotlands-little-known-highlanders\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScotland's little-known Highlanders\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, McKean talks of being “captured by Doric ballads” while growing up half a world away in Boston, Massachusetts. Rarely do people talk about their love of the English language this way. “I grew up listening to Doric accents because of my parents' love of traditional folk music, which is especially strong here,” McKean told me. “That’s what first drew me to the north-east of Scotland – I wanted to see the places and little villages that I knew so well from the songs I loved.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIf you want to shout about your culture, it’s helpful to have a plentiful supply of ballads, poems and folk stories. McKean’s favourites include The Jolly Beggar (“There wis a jolly beggar man, and he wis dressed in green, And he wis seekin’ lodgins in a hoose in Aiberdeen”) and The Bonnie Earl o’ Moray (“Ye heilands and ye lowlands, O whaur hae ye been? They hae slain the Earl o’ Murray, And laid him on the green”). But the academic believes there is a wealth of Doric material, even if its value as a language in public life has been devalued. That’s one reason, he told me, why the Elphinstone Institute has launched the first ever undergraduate academic course in Doric and is in the throes of developing further plans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDoric’s resurgence mirrors a heightened awareness around preserving indigenous languages. Over the past few years, increasing attempts to halt or reverse the decline of indigenous languages have been made, from First Nations societies in Canada to Saami communities in Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. As a result, oral culture is being increasingly safeguarded and becoming more accessible in ways never possible before. The Elphinstone Institute’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abdn.ac.uk\u002Felphinstone\u002Fmap\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EElphinstone Map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for instance, is opening up a whole new world of Doric songs, supernatural tales and folk stories through its interactive multimedia map for visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“Doric is a language that is both a response and interaction to the landscape and history of north-east Scotland,” said McKean. “The way we speak and words we use are such a vital way to connect with our emotions, and when learning another language these deeper thoughts aren’t as accessible to you. We don’t just lose words and sounds – we lose different world views. So Doric is a huge asset for the area, and it adds another dimension to people’s tourism experience.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPart of the West Germanic language family, Doric shares commonalities with Friesian and Norwegian, but also with Ancient Greece. The name “Doric” was originally \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201215-the-last-speakers-of-ancient-sparta\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eapplied in Ancient Greece\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to help distinguish the pure, rural lingo of Doric from the Athenian dialect, and it has sometimes been suggested that the name was adopted by Scots because of the predominantly urban-rural divide between the Lowlands and Highlands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnother theory is that it stuck because Edinburgh was once nicknamed “Athens of the North” in the early 19th Century due to its neo-classical architecture, and the name \"Doric\" for this rural dialect was a bit of a snub by Lowlands Scots. But gradually, Doric fell out of use as many places experienced Anglicisation and strong industrial growth, particularly during the oil boom of the 1970s. Indeed, attempts were made 30 years prior to suppress Doric in schools, with a public education report branding it as “not the language of ‘educated’ people anywhere”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESuch linguistic history is documented at the village of Turriff’s \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdoricneuk.weebly.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDoric Neuk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E cultural museum, with its beginners' language classes and book collection, including Blackhall’s Doric version of The Gruffalo and Spikkin Doric, a dictionary of 600 selected words.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut while coronavirus restrictions continue to impact international travel, it is still possible to be transported into the language of Scotland’s north-east to glimpse Doric communities from afar. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.doricfuture.co.uk\u002Fdoric-tv\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDoric TV\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is one such entry point, having accumulated more than 100 videos on its dedicated YouTube channel since launching last March. Its focus lies not in the tales of farmers and fisherfolk, who once worked the fields and coastline of Aberdeenshire, but rather in the vibrant, contemporary stories of today and tomorrow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Doric speakers aren’t like normal Scots language speakers, so many claim","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E“One of the driving forces is for our voices to be heard for centuries to come,” Doric filmmaker Jill McWilliam told me. “I want to capture our way of life, to pass on our cultural history as a digital archive to the next generation. It’s an oral, living, social history that helps connect people and places – and hopefully it lets others feel something of the privilege we have in living where we do.” To her great surprise, viewers have so far tuned in from Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Canada.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETune in yourself and you might hear phrases like “Fit like?” (How are you?) and “gie’s a bosie” (give me a hug). Or words such as fair forfochan (exhausted), loon (a boy), quine (a girl), contermaschious (argumentative) or vratch (a nuisance). A personal favourite is foggie bummer (bumble bee). Then, in keeping with the north-east’s damp climate, there are at least 20 words to describe rain (pick from dreich, drookit and smirr, also frequently used in Scots), sough (for the sound of the wind), plooter (for splash in mud), hummel dodies (for fingerless mittens) and curious terms like cappie (ice-cream cone), fooge (play truant) and hallyrackit (disorganised).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDoric terms and stories are everywhere, if one looks hard enough. They can be found in the dramatic coastlines from Balmedie to Boddam. In the paths that meander in and out of Aberdeenshire’s spectacular cliffs. In the clay grounds, tended and nourished into the fertile farmlands found today. This sense of visceral connection with the land is vital in Scotland’s north-east. It is a memory of the people Doric speakers once were, but also a reminder of what they could become again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEDITOR'S NOTE: A previous version of this article stated that Doric is p\u003C\u002Fem\u003Eart of the North Germanic language family. This has now been corrected.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Flost-in-translation\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELost in Translation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series exploring encounters with languages and how they are reflected in a place, people and culture.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-03-22T21:07:27Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Scotland’s little-known fourth \"language\"","headlineShort":"The UK language with 20 words for rain","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Doric, a little-known form of North East Scots, is undergoing a pandemic-inspired renaissance.","summaryShort":"Plenty of Scots do not even know Doric exists","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-03-21T21:17:43.188418Z","entity":"article","guid":"260129d2-ef4e-473d-93c0-2a007be3f089","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:05:23.558983Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135648},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","_id":"61b118d045ceed2eb74dbcd1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Just 30 permanent residents live on Foula, which lays claim to being Britain's most remote inhabited island and operates on a different calendar to the rest of the UK.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EI learned several new words during my time in Shetland, the distant island chain drifting between Scotland and Norway. One of them was \u003Cem\u003Eequinoctial\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. It means \"of or relating to the equinox\". It is frequently used to describe equinoctial gales, which can feel relentless this far north when the seasons change in spring and autumn. In a place as exposed to the elements as Shetland, they can be definitive; on its most distant island of Foula, they can act as a sort of gatekeeper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003E\"Things are likely to get pretty entertaining,\" said pilot Marshall Wishart as we boarded his BN-2B Islander to fly from the airport outside Shetland's largest town, Lerwick, to the airstrip on Foula, 31 miles west. Our departure had already been delayed by the gales for many hours and for a time the forecast said that no flying would be possible for several days. Instead, however, half-an-hours' notice was given to scramble to the airport and make a narrow weather window.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIn a year dominated by domestic travel, Foula has perhaps been the most extreme option available to Brits. Sometimes referred to as Ultima Thule – Latin bywords for extremely remote destinations – it is said to be the most remote inhabited British island, reached by an unpredictable ferry or the frequently hectic 17-minute flight from the Shetland Mainland. Travel due west beyond it and there is nothing but the tumultuous North Atlantic until the east coast of Greenland. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EOn the day I flew, the equinoctial gales were strong enough to decapitate any white horses forming below. By that point in early October, the island's ferry hadn't sailed for a couple of weeks and wasn't expected to try again for several more. This meant that the 30 or so permanent residents on the island depended wholly on the vagaries of light aircraft to bring them supplies. \"It could be like this until the next equinox really,\" said Sheila Gear, Foula resident of almost 60 years. \"It's only really late April or May that the wind finally stops. You have to be well-stocked, but you're used to it if you live here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Foula sheep lying on grass","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003ENonetheless, there is a limited amount of tourism, with just two guest houses – \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.selfcateringfoula.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Burns\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitscotland.com\u002Finfo\u002Faccommodation\u002Fristie-self-catering-p1502271\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERistie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – and a few camping sites providing accommodation. The majority of visitors are birders, drawn here by the tens of thousands of birds that make this blustery island home over summer. Otherwise, Foula offers few distractions for those not interested in the outdoors: there is no wi-fi, no pubs or bars, not even a shop to buy basic supplies. Visitors must bring everything with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003ETo some people this is a surprise, but it is not the only one on Foula. Before making the long journey north, I asked some Shetlander friends what to expect. Not only had none of them been before, but they also didn't even know anyone who had.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210915-a-british-beast-rarer-than-the-panda\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA British beast rarer than the panda\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211110-the-uk-village-that-lost-its-cheese\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe UK village that lost its cheese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211129-the-scottish-isle-where-native-ponies-roam\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA small Scottish isle with a big story\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIf outsiders know anything at all about the island it is likely to be that the residents still adhere to a version of the Julian calendar, having refused to change to the more modern Gregorian calendar in line with the rest of the country in 1752. They may also know that this was the last place in the United Kingdom to speak a Norse language, Norn. However, they may not be aware that the reason the language finally died out was because of a pandemic – not Covid-19, but smallpox, lethal waves of which washed over the island in the 18th Century, killing the majority of residents. When Foula was repopulated by English-speaking Shetlanders, Norn was lost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EMany of the words that endure today are names of seabirds. There are maalie (northern fulmars), tystie (guillemots), solan gos (gannets) and many more besides. Above them all, stands the great skua, or bonxie as it's known locally. The huge, brown gull-like birds can be difficult creatures to love.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EEven Gear, who has spent most of her life around them, finds their characteristics to be challenging, bordering on disgusting. \"The real problem is that fishing boats discarding catch has created an artificially high population, beyond what the natural ecosystem can support,\" she told me, between bonxie stories too upsetting to repeat here. \"Where's that going to end? It's not sustainable.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"House with sea stack behind in Foula, Shetland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EThe bonxie has no claws with which to kill its prey. It does, however, have the instincts of a predator, meaning it must use its barbed beak to pitilessly peck at its victims. Lambs are not safe, and even Shetland pony foals can be targeted. One night I saw a dead rabbit on the side of Foula's only significant road; by morning, great skuas had disassembled it to something unrecognisable. The smaller Arctic skua (skooty aalin) is hardly a shrinking violet itself, but even it loses chicks to the bonxies. The island's sturdy crows may have larger brains and a reputation for similarly callous behaviour, but they too give way to the piratical bonxies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EYet even these screaming brigands can't face Foula in winter, instead flying south to Africa to scavenge, rob and kill on a whole new continent before returning in spring. \"For all I've said about them,\" continued Gear, as though trying to strike a conciliatory tone, \"we're still really glad to see them come back each time. They're part of life here and we're fond of them, even if we're not so fond of their behaviour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EBirds aside, there is extraordinary beauty on Foula, too. The majority of the settlement is on the east side of the island, sheltering from the most violent of the North Atlantic's furies. Disparate farms are surrounded by peat moss bogs that are dutifully patrolled by mismatching Foula sheep and Shetland ponies. While these scenes can look pretty, especially with the island's satisfying ruddy hills in the background, the north coast is significantly more beautiful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EIt's there that Garda stands, a hulking three-pronged sea stack under constant attack from the ocean. The same is true nearby at the sensational Da Kame, the site of most of Foula's birds' nests. They have picked an exceptionally scenic spot; among the highest cliffs in Europe, this vast avian city looks especially dramatic at day's end when the sun's dying rays bounce off its mighty walls as waves crash in below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EThe granite landscape does a lot better here than metal – salty gales eat at vehicles, meaning they rarely last more than a few years. Up and down the road, I saw abandoned cars stripped to skeletons by the elements. When I took a walk to the island's graveyard, I found that the same wind had feasted on headstones, leaving most of them unreadable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Coastline of Foula, Shetland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EI explained to Gear that while I thoroughly enjoyed my time on her island, I had no notion to move there. I would wilt in the face of its challenges. \"It can be a difficult place, especially in winter,\" she replied with a slight chuckle. \"There's the darkness and the continual wind and rain. Just going outside can be very difficult, and yet you can grow to miss it. The first time I went abroad was to Madeira and I found myself missing the weather. It was ridiculous.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp align=\"left\"\u003EA hard island for hard people and even harder birds. Magnus Holbourn, owner of the Burns cottage, summed it up on one especially windy morning. \"This is not a place where humanity is in the ascendency,\" he said. \"It's just clinging on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fhidden-britain\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHidden Britain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that uncovers the most wonderful and curious of what Britain has to offer, by exploring quirky customs, feasting on unusual foods and unearthing mysteries from the past and present.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-09T20:41:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Foula: Britain's most remote inhabited island","headlineShort":"Britain's most remote inhabited island","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Cliffs and sea at Foula, Shetland","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"60.1313","longitude":"2.0695","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Cliffs and sea at Foula, Shetland","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Just 30 permanent residents live on Foula, which lays claim to being Britain's most remote inhabited island and operates on a different calendar to the rest of the UK.","summaryShort":"Only around 30 permanent residents live on Foula","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-08T20:42:48.491631Z","entity":"article","guid":"f0feb26a-d291-45df-a4fb-ece8fa8711a8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","modifiedDateTime":"2021-12-08T20:42:48.491631Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135648},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge","_id":"6183c24d45ceed4e1a3d51b2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Known as the \"Hebridean Baker\", Coinneach MacLeod is an unlikely TikTok sensation who is bringing the best of the islands' culture to the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike many people around the world, Coinneach MacLeod spent much of the past year baking during lockdown. But rather than finding a simple sourdough recipe to pass the time, MacLeod dug deep into the rich history of his homeland on the Isle of Lewis, the most northerly of Scotland's Outer Hebrides islands. Inspired by Hebridean produce and recipes he learned from his ancestors – most notably his 93-year-old aunt, Bellag – MacLeod began uploading videos of his homemade creations to TikTok in 2020 as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@hebrideanbaker\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHebridean Baker\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than 2.7m likes and 225,000 followers later, the 47-year-old has become one of the least likely celebrities on Gen Z's favourite platform.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut it isn't just MacLeod's sumptuous hot toddy choux buns, Heilan' coo cupcakes or haggis bon bons that have made the soft-spoken chef a viral sensation. By serving his food with a side of Hebridean folklore, Scottish Gaelic tongue twisters and traditional music – as well as the occasional cameo by his wee Westie pup, Seòras – Coinneach's goal is to bring the best of Hebridean culture to the world. He's also encouraging his followers to embrace the Hebrides' version of the popularised Danish comfort custom of hygge by encouraging people to forage for local ingredients, cook with loved ones and slow down while embracing simplicity – wherever they may be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-01T20:30:12Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Scotland's version of 'hygge'","headlineShort":"Scotland's version of 'hygge'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"56.5000","longitude":"6.0000","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Known as the \"Hebridean Baker\", Coinneach MacLeod is an unlikely TikTok sensation who is bringing the best of the islands' culture to the world.","summaryShort":"An unlikely celebrity chef is teaching the world about the Hebrides","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-30T20:30:41.575328Z","entity":"article","guid":"535db73b-9324-44a8-94a4-74e104f65317","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge","modifiedDateTime":"2021-10-01T14:05:07.627257Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135648},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture","_id":"61b9072d45ceed2bc32bc86c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsally-coffey"],"bodyIntro":"Since the 1970s, the town of Eilean Iarmain has been at the forefront of Scotland's Gaelic revival. Now, a new generation of locals are ready to share their culture with tourists.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe water ripples to the shoreline like a slow yawn as the little village of Eilean Iarmain on the Isle of Skye gently wakes up. There are deliveries for the hotel and pub, dog-walkers stop to greet friends with \"\u003Cem\u003EMadainn mhath\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (good morning) by the pier, and tourists breathe in the crisp air and sea views before deciding on their day's adventure. The atmosphere is unhurried and inclusive, be you a local or visitor, as is the Gaelic way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince wealthy businessman and Gaelic language activist Sir Iain Noble became the landowner of a large part of Skye's southerly Sleat Peninsula in the 1970s, the village of Eilean Iarmain has been at the forefront of a Gaelic revival in Scotland. The nearby college of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.smo.uhi.ac.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESabhal Mòr Ostaig\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, founded by Noble in 1973, has grown over the past five decades from a handful of students to become the National Centre for Gaelic Language and Culture, attracting more than 1,000 students a year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGaelic, which had been the main language in Scotland for centuries, began to be dismantled from the early 17th Century onwards, beginning with The Statutes of Iona of 1609, under the reign of King James VI, which labelled it \"barbaric\" and called upon clan chiefs to send their heirs to English-speaking schools. Mass emigrations (some forced, some voluntary) of Gaelic speakers in the 18th and 19th Centuries didn't help, and the language was further undermined in the aftermath of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-scotland-highlands-islands-56661832\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBattle of Culloden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – the Jacobites' failed last stand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b9sl7j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Eilean Iarmain (Gaelic for Isle Ornsay) was once the main port on the south of Skye","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENevertheless, in rural areas, particularly in the Western Isles and other parts of the Highlands and islands, Gaelic speaking remained strong, though increasingly by the 20th Century it was confined to the home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPrior to Noble's arrival, a lack of jobs led young people to leave Skye and look for opportunities elsewhere, and the Gaelic language was considered old-fashioned and at odds with this need to progress. Noble's belief, however, was that the Gaelic language could be utilised to stem depopulation in Skye and actually become an economic driver in its own right.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDecades on, Noble's theory has slowly been proven. Sabhal Mòr Ostaig is now one of the biggest employers on the Isle of Skye and a third of islanders speak Gaelic as either their first or second language.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe college has spawned a new generation of Gaelic speakers skilled in TV, business and other industries that have enabled them to create more jobs on the island, but now it's taking a more outward approach and thinking about how it can extend its Gaelic offering to visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a Londoner with Irish Gaelic heritage, I've long wanted to visit the village of Eilean Iarmain, and as expected it's a picturesque, though unobtrusive place. The restored Victorian whitewashed \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Feileaniarmain.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHotel Eilean Iarmain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and its adjoining pub, Am Pràban, which also forms part of the late Noble's holdings, dominate. If you arrive in daylight, you'll be drawn to the water's edge to look out across the Sound of Sleat towards the hills of Knoydart. It's like a Hollywood depiction of Scotland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b9slfn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sabhal Mòr Ostaig has become the National Centre for Gaelic Language and Culture","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's hard to imagine, looking at the little pier, but Eilean Iarmain (Gaelic for Isle Ornsay) was once the main port on the south of Skye. In the 19th Century, everything coming into the south of Skye came through here, from coal to the post, fresh fish to the news. People also arrived and, more significantly, departed from here, whether they were heading on short trips to Portree, Mallaig or Glasgow for work or to collect provisions, or to seek new lives abroad. In 1837, the William Nicol ship left here bound for Australia with 332 emigrants onboard. According to the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sleatlocalhistorysociety.org.uk\u002Findex.php\u002Ftopic\u002F48\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESleat Local History Society\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, many of those on board were forced to leave their homeland due to hardship and food shortages.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESpend more than a passing hour in Eilean Iarmain – you can also visit a stony beach, a knitwear shop, a Gaelic whisky and gin shop, an art gallery and a clutch of houses – and Noble's name will surely come up.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot a native Gaelic speaker, Noble was initially met with some scepticism. Nevertheless, his love for the language shone through and today he is widely seen as the instigator of the resurgence of Gaelic culture in south Skye. This resurgence was no doubt aided by the deep sense of belonging so prevalent among Gaelic communities, passed down through the generations by those who left on the ships as well as those left behind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Because he was looking for Gaelic speakers [to teach at the college and work in the hotel], Iain would recruit from Skye and from the Outer Hebrides and then he would headhunt those whose families were from Skye but who, because there were no jobs, were working in Aberdeen, in London and further afield,\" said Lady Lucilla, Noble's widow. \"So, he was reversing the brain drain really.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b9skd2"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hotel Eilean Iarmain forms part of the late Sir Iain Noble's holdings","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Sabhal Mòr Ostaig is still the only college in the world that delivers its learning programmes entirely in Gaelic. However, Eilean Iarmain is by no means the only part of Skye where Gaelic culture can be experienced: \"Gaelic is strong throughout the island – and certainly in the north of Skye, there are speakers and families that have always spoken Gaelic,\" Lucilla said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut she believes the college and the hotel, which both provide a real hub for the community, were catalysts for changing perceptions of Gaelic across the island, which wasn't seen as very progressive, particularly among young people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"What was amazing about the college and the young people going there, was that Gaelic became cool","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"What was amazing about the college and the young people going there, was that Gaelic became cool,\" she said. \"I've seen some really cool youngsters who are very proud of their Gaelic, and they're just full of the usual spirits of young people but absolutely revelling in what they have, which is a heritage going back hundreds of years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScotland's little-known fourth 'language'\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBritain's most remote inhabited island\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScotland's version of 'hygge'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of those young people is Emily Macdonald, a 15-year-old musician who has grown up around Eilean Iarmain and speaks Gaelic fluently, having attended a primary school in the Gaelic-medium.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs well as playing the bagpipes and the piano and being passionate about Gaelic song, Macdonald regularly converses with friends in Gaelic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b9sksb"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Am Pràban adjoined to the Hotel Eilean Iarmain hosts traditional music sessions","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"At the age that we are now, I feel like we're even more wanting to speak Gaelic to each other, just to keep it alive, because it is really important,\" she said. \"And to have this special language that we can speak to each other in, you know, is quite special.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn my visit, I was lucky enough to see Macdonald perform a few songs at a \u003Cem\u003Ecèilidh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a traditional social gathering with music and dancing) in the Eilean Iarmain hotel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I feel like the whole area around me comes through in the songs.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMacdonald's singing voice is pure and melancholic, but it's the art of storytelling through song that seems to particularly drive her. \"Most of the songs have been written by bards whose wives have gone away and such things, and they're singing from the place that they come from,\" she said. \"So, I learn quite a few songs from Skye, because I feel like the whole area around me comes through in the songs.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlistair MacKay, a freelance filmmaker, studied at Sabhal Mòr Ostaig and later returned to the island with his wife, Angela, to work at the college. They are now raising their three children on Skye.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a student, he recalls many a happy night in the Am Pràban bar, where sometimes it was so packed with revellers that you couldn't open the door. He also told me it was so much the place to be that he remembers a local lad who would walk home at the end of the night down the lonesome Ord Road, a journey of two hours or so that seems treacherous even in daytime.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETake a short course\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.smo.uhi.ac.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESabhal Mòr Ostaig\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offers week-long Gaelic language courses over Easter and summer. There's also a busy program of music, Gaelic song, song-writing, art and traditional step dance, alongside a social programme of concerts, cèilidhs, lectures and dances.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAttend a festival\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EThe Skye-based arts organisation \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.seall.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESEALL\u003C\u002Fa\u003E hosts events across the island, including the autumn Festival of Small Halls and the summer Féis an Eilean.\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ESupport local\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ENearby \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Farmadalecastle.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArmadale Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E does a lot of work supporting local musicians. Pre-pandemic, it also hosted a Gaelic Arts Week, which hopefully will make a return in 2022.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWatch a session\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EFew experiences can be more authentic than toe-tapping or foot-stomping along to a traditional music session in the wood-panelled Am Pràban pub adjoined to the \u003Ca href=\"file:\u002F\u002F\u002FUsers\u002Fsallycoffey\u002FDownloads\u002Feileaniarmain.co.uk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHotel Eilean Iarmain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Hotel Eilean Iarmain is also planning more cèilidhs and can recommend local guides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"How to live the life","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMacKay believes the island has so many stories that can help visitors connect to their surroundings and that finding a local guide who can bring the areas alive is crucial.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Having someone there that says, 'right that mountain there is Ben na Caillich, which means the mountain of the old lady, and legend has it she was a princess, the daughter of a Norwegian king, and she married a Mackinnon chief' and then suddenly you're like, 'right'. You've seen something in front of you and now it means something,\" he said. \"It's connecting the land, the people, the culture and the sense of place, rather than just driving through a landscape and thinking 'oh well, it's impressive but there's no context there'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMacKay says that though Hotel Eilean Iarmain has long had a Gaelic association and has been rooted in the community, other organisations on Skye, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.feisean.org\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFèisean nan Gàidheal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.aros.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAros Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Portree, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.seall.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESEALL\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – which runs events such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FSkyeFestival\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFèis an Eilein\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Skye Festival), a 10-day celebration of music, literature and theatre – have also long promoted Gaelic culture and encouraged people to slow down and immerse themselves in the island's rich culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMacKay isn't the only one to see the potential of Gaelic tourism. Earlier this year, VisitScotland began to advise tourism businesses on how to capitalise on this aspect of their culture. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Gaelic and its rich culture are an important part of Scotland's tourism offer and strengthens the authentic experience we know means so much to visitors,\" said Rob Dickson, VisitScotland Director of Industry and Destination Development.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We believe the language will continue to prove a valuable asset to Scotland's identity, our tourism industry and entice Scots at home to experience something new in Scotland.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow that international travellers are finally able to return to Scotland, having a meaningful visit, particularly one that may tie-in with their own heritage, will help enrich their experiences.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor my part, I left Eilean Iarmain determined to find the time to return for a course in Gaelic song at the college and reconnect with my own Irish Gaelic heritage. I will never be as melodic as Macdonald, but I think I may just be able to find some of the enjoyment in the singing that she does, and if all else fails, it will make a good story one day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--- \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-15T21:05:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A tiny village reviving Gaelic culture","headlineShort":"A tiny village reviving Gaelic culture","image":["p0b9skwp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The small town of Eilean Iarmain has been at the forefront of Scotland's Gaelic revival","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"57.1463136","longitude":"-5.8254476","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The small town of Eilean Iarmain has been at the forefront of Scotland's Gaelic revival","promoImage":["p0b9skwp"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210321-scotlands-little-known-fourth-language","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211208-foula-britains-most-remote-inhabited-island","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210930-scotlands-version-of-hygge"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Since the 1970s, the town of Eilean Iarmain has been at the forefront of Scotland's Gaelic revival. Now, a new generation of locals are ready to share their culture with tourists.","summaryShort":"A new generation of locals are now ready to share their culture","tag":["tag\u002Flanguage"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-14T21:05:41.412235Z","entity":"article","guid":"a35060d7-47d9-4689-9ba0-a3329bb56878","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture","modifiedDateTime":"2022-01-05T10:27:34.903991Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211214-a-tiny-village-reviving-gaelic-culture","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fscotland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_scotland_europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135648},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake","_id":"6183c23145ceed457a7c8b75","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Taiwan’s most gruelling cycling challenge heads from the depths of the dizzying marble Taroko Gorge to the KOM summit, ending at a green- and blue-hued lake surrounded by leafy hills.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETaiwan is a\nstriking natural paradise of forest and parkland. Dotted with hot springs and\nlakes, the country is almost divided in two by its rugged Central Mountain\nRange, which culminates at the legendary King Of Mountain (KOM) summit,\nTaiwan’s highest at 3,275m. Crowning \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.taroko.gov.tw\u002FEnglish\u002F\"\u003ETaroko National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one\nof six national parks in the country, KOM is also the centrepiece of Taiwan’s\nmost popular annual \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Ftheme.taiwanbike.tw\u002Fevent\u002F2014\u002Fen\u002Findex.html\"\u003Ecycling\nrace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cul\u003E\u003Cli\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Ffeature\u002F20130222-hiking-in-the-landslide-capital-of-the-world\"\u003ERelated article: Hiking in the landslide capital of the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENot one to take on\na gruelling one-day cycling challenge with more than 100km of elevation myself\n– I chose instead to cycle to the national park, and mirror the competitor’s\nroute from the comfort of a car: riding down into the depths of the national\npark’s dizzying marble \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.taroko.gov.tw\u002FEnglish\u002F\"\u003ETaroko\nGorge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, up to the KOM summit and back down the other side, ending at the\nidyllically named \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sunmoonlake.gov.tw\u002Fenglish\u002F\"\u003ESun\nMoon Lake\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the largest body of water in Taiwan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom bustling\nTaipei, I first cycled 22km north to Keelung City, where the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.necoast-nsa.gov.tw\u002Fuser\u002FMain.aspx?Lang=2\"\u003ENortheast\nand Yilan Coast National Scenic Area\u003C\u002Fa\u003E road runs for\nabout 200km south to the Taroko Gorge. Thick grey skies\nhung above as powerful waves crashed onto the coastline’s jagged cliffs; on the\nother side of the road, green hills towered above, peppered with small cemeteries\nof colourful shrines. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAbout 40km south from\nKeelung in the beachside town of Fulong, an off-road bike trail took us through\nglorious leafy countryside to the entrance of the 2km-long Caoling Tunnel.\nReopened in 2008 as a cycling path, the former railway was used between 1924 and\n1945, during the time that Japan occupied the island nation. Before, Taiwan was governed by\nChina, which regained control in 1945 and has regarded Taiwan as a Chinese\nautonomous territory ever since. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe longest railway of its time, Caoling is one\nof the many reminders of the country’s past. Humid and dark, we heard the old\nTaiwanese folk song Diudiudang playing\nin hidden speakers as we passed through; on the other side of the tunnel, a\nbike trail linked back to the main coastal road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe entrance to Taroko National Park is located about 200km south of\nFulong, between the counties of Yilan and Hualien. Established in 1986, the\n227,000-acre park is dotted with prehistoric sites and aboriginal villages. But\nthe top draw is the soul-stirring, 19km-long Taroko Gorge. Suspension bridges –\nsome more rickety than others – reach\nacross gorge’s dramatic depths, leading to numerous hiking trails, including the\n5km Shakadang (Mysterious Valley) path. Partially lined with delicate white\nflowering Tung trees, the trail leads to deep pools of clear water. Picturesque\nshrines hide behind low-hanging clouds in the mountains. The Changchun (Eternal\nSpring) Shrine, one of the most accessible from the roadside, features two\nnarrow waterfalls that run into the gorge like trails of white lace. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStanding on the\nedge of the gorge, close to the red Cimu Bridge, I was held in the grip of an\nunsettling sensation vacillating between flight and vertigo. Surrounded by the\nelements – the rain pounding down on the craggy peaks, the river rushing\nthrough the milky marble canyon below – it was easy to see why the Portuguese\ngave Taiwan the name of Formosa (beautiful) when they discovered the East China\nSea island in 1544. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EContinuing up to\nthe KOM summit, the road became a network of pitch-black one-way tunnels,\ncalled the Nine Turns of the Coiled Dragon. The peak offered views of the\nvalleys and mountaintops, circled with halos of fog. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe drive down the\nother side of the mountain, through the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.cingjing.gov.tw\u002Fen\u002Fabout\u002Findex.php\"\u003ECingjing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\ncountryside, can unsettle even the most stable of stomachs due to its hairpin\nbends. But the rewards once you reach the township of Puli, about 50km south, are\nincredible. Serene and very still, the mirror-like, green- and blue-hued \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sunmoonlake.gov.tw\u002Fenglish\u002F\"\u003ESun Moon Lake\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is surrounded by leafy hills and scenic\nparkland. Sun Moon Lake is best seen early in the morning for its crisp colours\nand fragrant jasmine-scented dew – and to watch the local rowing teams\npractice. Finish your trip off by biking the 12km route around the lake – it’s one\nof the most charming cycling routes in the country. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\n\u003Cstrong\u003EPracticalities\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ESun Moon Lake’s\nverdant banks and Taipei’s bright neon lights might be worlds apart, but they\nare only an hour’s high-speed train away from each other, so even travellers\nwho are not keen on cycling can get around without too much difficulty. For\ncyclists, a number of companies, such as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.giantcyclingworld.com\u002Fweb\u002Ftravel_en.php\"\u003EGiant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E,\norganise biking tours throughout Taiwan, running from nine-day island tours to\nslower-paced scenic itineraries. Make sure to ask for a guide who speaks your\nlanguage. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake-13"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2014-11-13T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"In Taiwan, a quest to reach Sun Moon Lake","headlineShort":"Taiwan’s dizzying marble gorge","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Taiwan’s most gruelling cycling challenge heads from the depths of the dizzying marble Taroko Gorge to the KOM summit, ending at a green- and blue-hued lake surrounded by leafy hills.","summaryShort":"A quest to reach Sun Moon Lake","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2014-11-12T22:27:28Z","entity":"article","guid":"5e76a2b9-dd36-4703-aaf4-a487243c2396","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-01T22:40:28.062265Z","project":"travel","slug":"20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135649},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck","_id":"6183c29a45ceed7750361a8f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"From boarding gates to baccarat tables and school exams to political races, people in the Chinese-speaking world seem particularly preoccupied with luck.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen Lu Chao boarded a Lucky Air flight in the eastern Chinese city of Anqing in February 2019, he left nothing to chance. It was the 28-year-old’s first time flying, and as he stepped aboard the Kunming-bound flight, he tried to turn luck in his favour – by tossing a pair of coins towards the jet’s engines.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There’s a pervasive idea running through Chinese culture that things aren’t random","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAirport security personnel immediately hustled Lu into detention. The remaining passengers had to wait several hours while the ground crew retrieved the coins, worth about 23p, and ensured that the plane’s engines hadn’t been damaged.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELu’s pursuit of a safe flight was widely mocked in China. Yet it was just one in a spate of similar incidents there recently. Last year alone, at least half a dozen people, ranging from an 80-year-old grandmother to a 26-year-old med student, were caught tossing coins as they boarded flights. And Lucky Air – which has suffered a string of such episodes since 2017 – began warning passengers on airport flight-status monitors that throwing money into a jet engine will buy “the sort of blessing you don’t need”.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIncidents like Lu’s are extreme examples. Yet while many countries have their own superstitions and rituals – whether that's Italians eating lentils on New Year's Eve for prosperity or Indians adding one rupee to gift money – people in the Chinese-speaking world seem particularly preoccupied with luck, from boarding gates to high-stakes baccarat tables and school exams to political races.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven something as seemingly simple as the number eight is an emblem freighted with psychic import – it’s a particularly potent symbol because its pronunciation is a homonym for “to get rich”, and a licence plate or phone number with an eight in it comes at a premium throughout China. Even underwear can be lucky: wearing red knickers for the New Year – and when playing mahjong – is a time-honoured technique for ensuring good luck.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere is obviously tremendous diversity in people’s attitudes toward luck, both in China itself and among the broader ethnic Chinese diaspora. But there are also many constants. And in the traditional Chinese calendar, the turn into each new year is a time that crackles with particular significance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Taipei, Taiwan, where I am based, Chinese New Year sees the city’s normally buttoned-up demeanour take a more raucous turn. People paste up auspicious characters and rhyming couplets, descend on lottery ticket kiosks en masse and jam into temples to pay obeisance to the full roster of gods who hold sway over the fortunes of the coming year. Even politicians are compelled to publicly try their luck, visiting temples to draw fortune sticks and gain insight into what the coming year may hold for their constituents – and themselves\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo where does this Chinese fascination with luck come from? Stevan Harrell, emeritus anthropology professor at the University of Washington, who has written about Chinese concepts of fate, says the origins of the preoccupation lie deep in the past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190210-why-china-is-obsessed-with-numbers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy China is obsessed with numbers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180905-nanjings-salted-duck-a-dish-fit-for-royalty\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere people eat 80,000 ducks a day\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E • \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young\" target=\"_self\"\u003EAsia’s anti-aging ‘red diamond’\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“This English word ‘luck’ implies randomness, but there’s a pervasive idea running through Chinese culture that things aren’t random,” Harrell said. “The whole concept of something being random just isn’t there.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat’s because, he explained, “There’s a belief in order: there’s some sort of order behind everything.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELiu Qiying is a Taoist priest in Taipei’s historic Wanhua district who performs ceremonies at temples throughout Taiwan. Traditionally, he said, many people believed in a simple maxim: “\u003Cem\u003Etian zhuding” \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(“heaven decides”).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Taoism, this notion gave rise to a complex explanatory cosmology based on the relative positions of Jupiter and a dozen stars during the planet’s 12-year orbital cycle. These workings of the heavens are believed to drive each person’s fate, and to this day they are the object of intense concern for many ethnic Chinese, and the bread-and-butter work for legions of fortune tellers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It doesn’t matter if you believe in gods. If you pray, you’ll be blessed","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis conviction in an underlying, if mysterious, order to life has also figured prominently in traditional Chinese political thought. Generations of emperors staked their legitimacy on the assertion that they personally manifested a heavenly mandate that uniquely allowed them to maintain order – and, by extension, peace – among their subjects.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet if there’s an order behind everything, might not mere mortals still be able to put their own fingers on the scales of fate? In fact, said Liu, while some higher power has plans for each person on Earth, traditional Chinese belief also holds that “heaven never seals off all the exits” – there is always a way out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis idea of wresting some control back over one’s own fate, and the astounding profusion of ways to do so, may ultimately be more remarkable than a simple fascination with fortune-telling and luck. Indeed, the broader Chinese world is home to a sprawling industry of luck-improvement services. In Taipei, for example, some temples offer full-service online packages that guarantee a priest will perform the requisite monthly rituals to dispel unlucky influences throughout the year; and even the upscale \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.eslite.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEslite Bookstore\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has a cosmological self-help section chock full of do-it-yourself fate-improvement guides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPriests and fortune tellers can help turn a string of bad luck around by helping the afflicted change their phone number, redesign their business cards or even change their names. Calling on a priest to perform a ritual known as “\u003Cem\u003Etse-kai” \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eto dispel baleful influences is, for some people, practically as common as seeing the dentist. And there’s a refreshingly nondenominational bent to the whole endeavour: the welcome sign is forever lit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E“We call [this attitude of openness] ‘\u003Cem\u003Eyoubai youbaoyou’\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,” said Liu. “It doesn’t matter if you believe in gods. If you pray, you’ll be blessed.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the gods themselves may not be too picky about who comes calling for their help, supplicants often bring a markedly tough-minded attitude to their search for a tutelary. In a place like Taiwan, with no shortage of gods and local deities from which to choose, people look for results.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd when a particular god delivers, people take notice. In fact, for centuries, this is how otherwise-obscure local heroes, saints and even ruffians have gradually won wide followings and been promoted into the bigger, culture-wide pantheon. This hard-nosed approach has led to a remarkably open and diverse space of belief with few absolute boundaries: it’s not at all unusual, for instance, for a Taoist temple to honour figures from the Buddhist tradition, and vice versa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELiu Qiying is a case in point. He has his own coin-tossing story, albeit one with a far happier ending than that of Lu Chao, the first-time flyer. Several years ago, Liu’s wife gave birth to a daughter, which was a source of great joy for the family. Yet Liu hoped for a son as well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2013, he travelled from Taiwan to the Dahuaxing Temple in southern China. The Buddhist temple honours an incarnation of the Bodhisattva Guanyin, often referred to as the Goddess of Mercy. There, below a massive hilltop statue of Guanyin sits a wishing pool with several carved dragon heads. Popular belief holds that anyone who tosses a coin into one of the dragons’ mouths will conceive a child.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELiu upped the stakes a bit, facing away from the dragons and tossing a coin backwards, over his head. The coin, he says, sailed directly into one of the dragons’ mouths.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENot long after, his wife became pregnant again, with what turned out to be a boy. And today, a small bust of Guanyin sits among the many Taoist deities that crowd the altar Liu tends in Taipei.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELu Chao, for his part, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-50979485\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eproved far less lucky\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Five months after he tossed his two coins off the jetway – and after later reportedly enlisting his brother to defend him in court – he lost his case and was fined more than 120,000 yuan (£13,650).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-02-10T20:56:30.685Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Why Taiwan has 'luck-improvement services’","headlineShort":"The Asian nation obsessed with luck","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From boarding gates to baccarat tables and school exams to political races, people in the Chinese-speaking world seem particularly preoccupied with luck.","summaryShort":"Even underwear can be lucky here","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-02-10T21:09:59.551249Z","entity":"article","guid":"e0b3cd5d-ca59-4358-b152-29bb8bd83b84","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck","modifiedDateTime":"2021-09-02T01:03:29.122936Z","project":"travel","slug":"20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135649},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village","_id":"6183c25645ceed5b5a40bbdc","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"When a former soldier learned that his village was going to be demolished 10 years ago, he picked up a brush and started painting – and he hasn’t stopped since.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EIt’s 04:00 in central Taiwan and everything is black. The city of Taichung’s 2.8 million residents are asleep, its flashing neon signs are off and the only movement cutting through the night is the silhouette of a 96-year-old man slowly painting alone in the darkness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EEvery morning, Huang Yung-fu flips on a light, shuffles out of his two-room bungalow in sandals and carries a handful of paint tins into the streets outside. While the city around him sleeps, Huang crouches on a stool for three hours and quietly decorates the drab cement walls, pavement and windows with an explosion of playful murals in kaleidoscopic colours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EWhat began years ago with a single hand-painted bird on Huang’s bedroom wall has since grown into tens of thousands of illustrations. Today, this whimsical world of cartoon-like people, abstract animals and surrealist art is splashed across every centimetre of concrete in this former military settlement – called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002F1949rainbow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERainbow Village\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And now, more than one million visitors flock to the village every year to meet its elderly artist and lone permanent resident, affectionately known as ‘Grandpa Rainbow’.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EIt’s hard not to smile when wandering the village’s paint-splattered streets. Tiny tigers leap from the walls, whiskered kittens hide in alleyways and a cheery parade of wide-eyed pandas, peacocks and people peek out from the doorways. Stay long enough and you may stumble upon dancing samurais, floating astronauts and kissing sweethearts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EWhile covering every corner of the village in a vivid dreamscape may seem like Huang’s life work, the self-taught artist only picked up a brush 10 years ago at the ripe age of 86. Not only has he transformed his Taiwanese settlement into a real-life storybook, but he saved it from demolition in the process.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E“Ten years ago, the government threatened to knock this village down,” Huang said, daubing red lines on a walkway as crickets chirped through the dark. “But I didn’t want to move. This is the only real home I’ve ever known in Taiwan, so I started painting.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImage":"urn:external:nitro:image:p06t2v0h","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EHuang was born outside Guangzhou, China, and remembers drawing with his father at age five. In 1937, he left home as a 15-year-old boy to fight the Japanese in the Second \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fstories-45644434\u002Foccupied-china-during-ww2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESino-Japanese War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. After World War Two, Huang joined the fight against Mao Zedong’s Communist government as the Chinese Civil War raged on back home. But when the Nationalist Party was defeated in 1949 and Zedong created the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-pacific-13017877\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPeople’s Republic of China\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Huang and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2009\u002F10\u002F06\u002Fworld\u002Fasia\u002F06iht-taiwan.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etwo million\u003C\u002Fa\u003E other troops and their families followed its Nationalist leader, Chiang Kai-shek, as he fled to Taiwan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003ETo accommodate this influx of refugees, retreating military families were housed in hundreds of ‘\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fenglish.sina.com\u002Fculture\u002F2016\u002F0121\u002F884010.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emilitary dependents’ villages\u003C\u002Fa\u003E’ throughout the island. These hastily built dwellings were meant to be a makeshift place for soldiers to lay low until the Nationalists could retake the mainland. That time never came, and over the years, these temporary dwellings became permanent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EAfter being stationed at various Taiwanese airbases, Huang was shot twice and critically wounded during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhistory.state.gov\u002Fmilestones\u002F1953-1960\u002Ftaiwan-strait-crises\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESecond Taiwan Straits Crisis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. When he finally retired from the military in 1978 with a gold medal for ‘Defending Taiwan’, he gathered his savings and moved into a bungalow in the village where he’s lived happily for the past 40 years. Today, visitors can find his door by looking for the illustration of a smiling soldier holding a paintbrush.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EAs the Nationalists’ dreams of recapturing mainland China faded over the decades, many military dependents abandoned their homes, and the poorly constructed dwellings that remained began to deteriorate. As a result, the Taiwanese government began an aggressive campaign to demolish the crumbling settlements in the 1980s and ‘90s, and used the prime urban real estate to build high-rise condominiums. Today, only 30 of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fenglish.sina.com\u002Fculture\u002F2016\u002F0121\u002F884010.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eoriginal 879\u003C\u002Fa\u003E military villages remain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E“When I came here, the village had 1,200 households and we’d all sit and talk like one big family,” Huang said, looking out of his bungalow window. “But then everyone moved away or passed away and I became lonely.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy 2008, developers had snatched up all but 11 of the settlement’s original 1,200 homes and Huang slowly saw his friends leave one by one. Unmarried and with no family in Taiwan, Huang had nowhere to go. So, he remained until he was the last resident left. When he received a letter from the government that summer ordering him to vacate the village, the soldier did something he hadn’t done since he was a schoolboy: he picked up a paintbrush. First came the little bird in his bungalow. Then some cats, people and aeroplanes. Soon, his colourful creations began to spill outside and onto the village’s abandoned buildings and streets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EOne night in 2010 as Huang toiled away under the moonlight, a student from nearby \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fweb.ltu.edu.tw\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELing Tung University\u003C\u002Fa\u003E stumbled upon the ageing artist and learned of his solitary battle to stave off the government’s bulldozers one brush stroke at a time. After snapping a few images of Huang’s concrete canvas, the student started a fundraising campaign to purchase as much paint for Huang as possible and launched a petition to protest the settlement’s demolition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E“People were amazed at this artist’s passion and touched by students trying to help an old man,” said Andrea Yi-Shan Yang, chief secretary of Taichung’s Cultural Affairs Bureau. “As news of ‘Grandpa Rainbow’ spread, it soon became a national issue. He had our entire society’s attention and compassion.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWithin several months, Taichung’s mayor was inundated by 80,000 emails from citizens urging him to preserve the settlement. Against all odds, it worked, and in October 2010, Taichung’s mayor ordered the remaining 11 buildings, streets and surrounding areas to be preserved as a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.taipeitimes.com\u002FNews\u002Ftaiwan\u002Farchives\u002F2014\u002F01\u002F26\u002F2003582184\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epublic park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIt touches people’s hearts looking at this man’s work and hearing his story. It wasn’t a violent protest. He wasn’t asking for any help. He just loved his home,” Yang said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003ESince saving his small settlement, Huang continues to wake up well before dawn, grab his paintbrush and report for ‘duty’ – a habit he’s kept from his strict early-morning military days. “There are many things that I can’t do anymore, but I can still paint,” Huang said. “It keeps me healthy, and adding a little colour can turn something old into something beautiful.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EIt also keeps him young. In fact, all of Huang’s art is inspired by his childhood memories and imagination, and there’s something poetic about a lifelong soldier who hadn’t picked up a brush in more than 70 years painting the puppy he loved as a boy, his favourite teachers and scenes of him and his younger brothers playing together in the Chinese countryside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E“People who come here sometimes compare his art to Spanish painter Joan Miró or Japanese animator and film director Hayao Miyazaki,” said Lin Young Kai, a staff member at Rainbow Village who helps Huang. “He just paints what he feels and what he remembers.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EAs images of Huang’s rainbow-hued hamlet have spread, the number of camera-toting visitors to the free park has grown. According to city officials, in 2016 more than \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.taipeitimes.com\u002FNews\u002Ftaiwan\u002Farchives\u002F2017\u002F11\u002F23\u002F2003682790\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E1.25 million people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E filed into Rainbow Village’s narrow, pedestrian-only alleyways. Huang usually goes outside to greet his guests in a buttoned-up collared shirt and flat cap, his hands often stained with flecks of paint from his early morning work.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EFor much of the past 10 years, Huang relied on coins left in a donation box outside his bungalow to buy his paint. Now, Lin and a group of young people help him sell postcards and illustrations of his work. Whatever proceeds don’t go towards his art are donated to local organisations that help the elderly. And whenever the mass of visitors to his village gets too much, he’ll sneak back inside his bungalow or over to a nearby stream to close his eyes and listen to the burbling water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cblockquote\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt’s inspiring – not just Grandpa Rainbow’s story but his paintings. A lot of young people create art in the streets, but nothing like this,” said Esther Yu-Hsi, a visitor from Taipei.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003C\u002Fblockquote\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EIn recent years, Huang’s health has deteriorated significantly and he’s spent a fair amount of time in the intensive care unit. ‘Sometimes it’s my heart, sometimes it’s my lungs,” he said, resting by a fan in his bungalow. “I guess I’m just getting old.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EDespite his nickname, ‘Grandpa’ has no children of his own. He had never married and figured he’d live out his days alone in his solitary settlement. But in 2013, Huang found love in the last place he ever expected: the hospital. During a dangerous bout of pneumonia, Huang fell in love with an elderly nurse tending to him and married her soon after. Now Rainbow Village’s population has doubled and ‘Grandma Rainbow’ shares Huang’s paint-crammed bungalow and the whimsical world he created outside most days of the week.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E“Ever since I met her, only my lungs hurt,” Huang smiled. “My heart is better.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter a long nap, Huang slowly shuffles back out of his bungalow and into the late afternoon heat to meet newly arrived visitors in his village. As travellers pose for pictures with the artist in residence, Grandpa Rainbow flashes the military ‘V’ for ‘victory’ sign before asking guests to please come back and visit him again soon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003ENo-one is sure how much longer Huang will be able to paint or what might happen to the colourful community he created after he's gone. There are talks of one day expanding Rainbow Village into an arts school for children or turning Huang’s bungalow into a museum. But at 96, Huang is taking things one day at a time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E“If I can get up and paint tomorrow, I will,” he said, sitting back in his chair and watching the crowds pass. “If I can’t, I will feel good knowing that this place will stay and make others happy.”\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fcustom-made\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECustom Made\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that introduces you to custodians of cultural traditions all around the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-11-29T14:25:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The 96-year-old painter who saved a village","headlineShort":"A village rescued by a 96 year old","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"24.2198468","longitude":"120.6756877","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"When a former soldier learned that his village was going to be demolished 10 years ago, he picked up a brush and started painting – and he hasn’t stopped since.","summaryShort":"A soldier picked up a paintbrush to save his home and made something beautiful","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:25:13.814829Z","entity":"article","guid":"772b5861-e7ce-4820-9c93-ca4fddc7e6ae","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village","modifiedDateTime":"2021-11-18T11:36:38.604107Z","project":"travel","slug":"20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135649},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination","_id":"61b7cd9a45ceed3ad57a41bb","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjoe-henley"],"bodyIntro":"By mapping trails, leading ascents and introducing locals to the beauty of their own backyard, one mountaineer has been working tirelessly to put Taiwan on the trekking map.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn March 1992, Chou Yeh-Cheng was high up on the slopes of Mount Dabajian in Taiwan's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spnp.gov.tw\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShei-Pa National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The 3,500m peak, mostly made up of dark, earthy sandstone, is noted for its imposing vertical rock face. It was the first mountain ascent Chou had ever attempted. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The temperature was below zero and I didn't have enough clothes,\" he recalled. \"I was with my two younger brothers, and we found a shelter. It was made from wood, so we took down the wood from the wall and made a fire to survive.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChou was beginning to display symptoms of hypothermia and he says the fire likely saved his life. Yet, the blaze presented a danger in itself. Having lit the fire indoors, Chou and his brother nearly choked to death on the smoke.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\"After that,\" Chou said, \"I realised I should take mountain climbing seriously.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b924nw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Chou is affectionately known as the \"Old Mountain Monkey\" among Taiwanese hikers, and he has hiked Taiwan's 100 3,000m-plus peaks a record 16 times each. He also holds the record for traversing those 100 peaks in the fastest time. But personal feats aside, by spreading his love of hiking and educating countless others about Taiwan's natural beauty, Chou has single-handedly changed the island's hiking culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt 70, Chou still cuts an unimposing figure: slight with bright, inquisitive eyes – a touch of mischief in their easy glint – with a wispy salt-and-pepper goatee. Even with a knee injury (the first physical ailment he claims he's ever encountered), he still walks around 20km a day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Until the 1990s, hiking in Taiwan was a fringe sport, as many mountains were off-limits during the country's period of martial law","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom 1995 until March 2021, Chou spent 100 days per year hiking the two mountain ranges running along Taiwan's spine and eastern coast. In addition to his own excursions, he also led group hikes up and down the island's 100 peaks from Hsinchu County in the north to Pingtung in the south, and extending to Hualien, Yilan and Taitung on Taiwan's eastern end. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I take every climber as a friend or relative,\" he said. \"I like to help others, and I believe helping others achieve the '100 Peaks' is a part of my responsibility.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b924vw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPart of Chou's mission has been to promote Taiwan as a premier hiking destination – and that starts by instilling a love of the mountains in locals. To get first-timers hooked on hiking, his go-to trail is the six-day \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyenhlin.smugmug.com\u002FTaiwan-Landscape-Photography-Alpine-Yen-H-Lin\u002FNenggao-Andongjun-Trail\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENenggao-Andongjun hike\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which rises high above the tree line, tracing Taiwan's spine and crossing deep valleys and vast, dreamlike meadows of dwarf bamboo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It has grass and lakes in the high mountain area, and many deer around you when you camp at night,\" said Chou. \"It looks very beautiful.” \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211207-the-michinoku-coastal-trail-japans-new-1000km-path\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's new 1,000km path\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211103-a-country-being-unified-through-hiking\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA country being unified through hiking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E• \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210408-the-man-mapping-a-nation-by-hand-telfor-bedeau\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe man who mapped a nation by hand\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChou came to hiking rather late in life. As a young man, he pushed himself to be the best at whatever he did but struggled to find an outlet outside of his electronics marketing job. For years he walked a conventional path – marriage, job, family. Still, he longed for something more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil the 1990s, Chou said hiking in Taiwan was seen as more of a fringe sport, since large swaths of the mountains were off-limits during the country's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-16178545\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E38-year-period of martial law\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which ended in 1987. As the island embraced democracy in the 1990s, the mountains were opened to the public and hiking became more widespread. After spending much of his vacation time and weekends hiking in the mid-'90s, Chou retired in 1999. He saw an opportunity to get more people involved in the sport he had fallen in love with, so he became a full-time mountain guide, working for the Linkou Mountain Climbing Association and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Feng.taiwan.net.tw\u002Fatt\u002Ffiles\u002FEasy%20Hiking_%E9%9B%BB%E5%AD%90%E6%9B%B8-%E5%B7%B2%E5%A3%93%E7%B8%AE.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eestablishing trails up and down the island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b9258j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChou's practical knowledge and unmatched awareness of the mountain terrain soon made him a sought-after guide. The Taiwanese government even began to take notice of the sport's increased popularity, thanks in no small part to Chou's efforts. In 2005, then-president Chen Shui-bian summoned Chou for a meeting, and Chou handed the leader a proposal to improve the state of hiking in Taiwan. Soon after, Taipei City started promoting hiking trails within its city limits, budgeting approximately US$2m per year to maintaining trails and linking existing trails into loops – one of which would come to be known as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftaiwan-scene.com\u002Fthe-taipei-grand-trail-discovering-the-secret-wildness-of-the-capital\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaipei Grand Trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 92km route stretching from Yangmingshan in the north of the city to the district of Muzha in the south. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2011, Chou's climbing reached its crescendo when he attempted to break the record for ascending all 100 of Taiwan's 3,000m-plus peaks in the shortest amount of time. It took the previous record-holder six months to ascend all 100 peaks, and he did so with a guide and crew who helped carry supplies up and down, day after day, in 24 separate trips. Chou thought he could do it in just eight trips, and if everything went according to plan, he could finish all 100 ascents and descents in less than three months. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We only had four people [and] 20-30kg packs,\" Chou recalled. \"No matter if there was rain, typhoon or earthquake, we had to go.\" In the end, Chou and three others who made the attempt were able to ascend the 100 peaks in just 87 days, obliterating the previous record. The accomplishment itself isn't what Chou recalls most fondly, but what they were able to do for others along the way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The most meaningful thing is that we tied lots of markers on the trail to help people find their way. In the mountains, once you get lost, you're in trouble,\" he said. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to working diligently to change hiking culture in Taiwan, Chou has also been working to make the sport safer. Taiwan's landscape is altered every year by typhoons, and Chou has often mapped out new routes to bypass those washed out by landslides while teaching hikers traditional navigation skills so that they don't rely too heavily on smartphones and other technology, which could always fail.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b925gz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThanks in part to Chou's decades-long efforts, the Taiwanese government declared 2020 the \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fi30.taiwan.net.tw\u002FEn\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaiwan year of mountain tourism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", and promoted a series of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fi30.taiwan.net.tw\u002FEn\u002FTour\u002FRecommendSubRoute\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Especially designed trail routes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E highlighting the island's ecological and cultural diversity, as well as historical paths such as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fenglish.cw.com.tw\u002Farticle\u002Farticle.action?id=2669\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDanlan Old Trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E – considered \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.taipeitimes.com\u002FNews\u002Ffeat\u002Farchives\u002F2018\u002F03\u002F02\u002F2003688514\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaiwan's oldest road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" – that once connected Taipei and Yilan during the Qing Dynasty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut then Covid struck. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow, Taiwan is in the process of setting up federally funded hiking education centres, where guides can receive safety training and the knowledge Chou has been imparting for decades will be passed onto hikers who wish to experience the splendour of Taiwan's high peaks. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMany Taiwanese have grown close to Chou after being introduced to hiking and going on guided trips around the island with him. Some have even been inspired to complete the 100 peaks themselves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJudy Ho of Danshui, New Taipei City, had climbed just eight of the 100 peaks before signing up for a hike with Chou. She had often seen pictures of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fjmlnt-en.forest.gov.tw\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJiaming Lake\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the largest high-altitude body of water on the island, with its famed mirror-like surface beautifully reflecting the sky and the surrounding vista, and dreamed of making the journey to see it in person. To get there meant, three days in, three days out, covering an average of 20km per day over rugged terrain. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We walked from dawn to dusk. The weather refused to cooperate, dumping rain on the group for the first two days, and snow for the third,\" recalled Ho. \"I was exhausted, but I felt so happy.\" With Chou’s guidance, Ho was able to see the lake she dreamt of seeing and experience a new side of her island. \"He's teaching others the skills during the trip,\" she went on, explaining how Chou passed on his encyclopaedic knowledge of local plant and animal life onto her.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b925x0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChou wants his hikers to walk away with more than just a feeling of accomplishment for arriving at a destination. They call him \"teacher\" out of respect, and he calls them \"students\". He teaches them how to survive hypothermia on the high peaks and points out wildlife many Taiwanese have only seen on nature programmes, pausing when he hears the sound of a muntjac deer or the chattering of macaque monkeys in the forest canopy. Chou describes how broadleaf elephant ear ferns can be folded into water carriers or used as a natural umbrella in the pouring rain, and talks of how to identify various snake species and what to do if one suffers a potentially fatal bite. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDue to the knee injury he is still recovering from, Chou is no longer leading tours into the mountains these days. Instead, he has devoted himself to an entirely new pursuit: walking around Taiwan – a journey known locally as the Huan Dao, or \"round the island\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince March, he has circumnavigated the island two and a half times, sometimes alone and occasionally joined by friends, both old and new. All told, including his journeys up and down Taiwan's various peaks, Chou says he's walked more than 10,000km in Taiwan. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust as he has sought out new paths in the mountains, Chou has also added new routes on his Huan Dao sojourns, mapping out what he calls a \"spiderweb\" path, with offshoots on lesser-known rural mountain trails that he hopes others will take the time to traverse and appreciate once he publishes them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0b926fd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChou has not abandoned the mountains entirely, though. He still feels their call and hopes that others will discover them as a place of unequalled beauty and serenity as he did. Looking back on that first trip to Dabajian nearly three decades ago, it wasn't the near-death experience that dominates his thoughts, but instead what he discovered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I had heard people call Taiwan 'Formosa' (the beautiful island),\" said Chou, \"but only [after hiking up into the mountains] did I understand why. I understood the beauty of Taiwan.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-12-14T22:47:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Can Taiwan become Asia's next great hiking destination?","headlineShort":"Taiwan's king of the mountains","image":["p0b926m6"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"23.6978","longitude":"120.9605","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2021-08-25T12:48:44.837297Z","Project":"","Slug":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6183c2c945ceed0d2f73335b"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0b925gz"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20140724-in-taiwan-a-quest-to-reach-sun-moon-lake","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210210-chinas-enduring-obsession-with-luck","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181128-the-96-year-old-painter-who-saved-a-village"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"By mapping trails, leading ascents and introducing locals to the beauty of their own backyard, one mountaineer has been working tirelessly to put Taiwan on the trekking map.","summaryShort":"He's circumnavigated Taiwan twice and isn't done","tag":["tag\u002Fhiking"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-12-13T22:47:46.72341Z","entity":"article","guid":"8d22ce16-1775-4813-819e-64acd5cafd4a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination","modifiedDateTime":"2021-12-14T21:28:56.828537Z","project":"travel","slug":"20211213-can-taiwan-become-asias-next-great-hiking-destination","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ftaiwan","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_taiwan_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1642108135648}},"tags":{"tag\u002Fcity":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:tag:tag\u002Fcity","_id":"6183c2c845ceed108434e5b4","assetImage":[],"description":"Explore BBC Travel’s latest stories about cities around the 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