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of source PIANOID'); } window.location.reload(); } } if (window.nzzDebugPiano) { console.log('##piano## pianoUpdateSalutation'); } let accountSalutation = null; if (field && field.value) { accountSalutation = field.value; } /* Determine values for new custom field for TEM (here called "salutation_text_TEM") */ let salutation_text_TEM = ''; if (accountSalutation === "[\"female\"]") { salutation_text_TEM = "Sehr geehrte Frau"; } else if (accountSalutation === "[\"male\"]") { salutation_text_TEM = "Sehr geehrter Herr"; } /* Update custom field with new value */ fetch(config.handlerUrl + new URLSearchParams({ aid: window.tp.aid, uid: data.uid, /* replace correct form ID and custom field ID */ form_id: config.salutationForm.formName, custom_fields: JSON.stringify({ salutation_text_TEM: salutation_text_TEM }) }), { method: 'POST', headers: { 'Authorization': window.tp.pianoId.getToken(), 'Content-Type': 'application/json; charset=UTF-8' } }).then(() => { if (window.nzzDebugPiano) { console.log(`##piano## salutation_text_TEM updated to ${salutation_text_TEM}`); } if (window.localStorage) { window.localStorage.setItem(`nzz-salutation`, data.uid); } }).catch(e => { if (window.nzzDebugPiano) { console.log(`##piano## salutation_text_TEM error: ${e}`); } }).finally(() => { if (forceReload) { if (window.nzzDebugPiano) { console.log('##piano## pianoUpdateSalutation forceReload, because of source PIANOID'); } window.location.reload(); } });}; ((bT, clientCountryPreference, config) => { let tags = []; if (bT && bT.standard) { Object.keys(bT.standard).forEach(key => { tags.push([`set${key}`, bT.standard[key]]); }); } if (bT && bT.custom) { Object.keys(bT.custom).forEach(key => { tags.push(['setCustomVariable', key, bT.custom[key]]); }); } return function pianoMain() { if (!window.tp) { window.tp = window.tp || []; window.digitalData = window.digitalData || {}; window.digitalData.user = [{ profile: [{ attributes: { piano: { clientCountryCode: clientCountryPreference || 'CH' 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charset=UTF-8' } }); }]); window.tp.push(['addHandler', 'loginSuccess', callbackData => { if (window.nzzDebugPiano) { console.log('##piano## loginSuccess in init', callbackData.source); } window.tp.pianoId.loadExtendedUser({ extendedUserLoaded: function (data) { if (window.nzzDebugPiano) { console.log('##piano## extendedUserLoaded for salutation', data); } let salutationField = null; const customFieldValues = data.custom_field_values; if (customFieldValues && customFieldValues.length > 0) { for (const field of customFieldValues) { if (field.field_name === "account_salutation") { salutationField = field; } } } let forceReload = false; if (callbackData.source == "PIANOID") { forceReload = true; } pianoUpdateSalutation(config, data, salutationField, forceReload); }, formName: 'salutation_form' }); }]); window.tp.push(['addHandler', 'checkoutCustomEvent', event => { if (window.nzzDebugPiano) { console.log('##piano## onCheckoutExternalEvent'); } const params = 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<div class="header-main__container header-main__container--right" style="display:;">  </div></div></div></div>   </div></div> </div> <div id="page" class="nzz-page-transition" style="opacity:1;"> <div><div data-resor="false" class="article"><section data-vars-danzz-article="" data-nzz-tid="article" data-nzz-referrer="articleLink" data-nzz-article="true" class="container container--article layout--longformstandard adnz-infeed-placeholder"><div id="id-doc-1gpngnhrn0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="header" data-vars-danzz-first-article-element="true" is-new-line-child="true" class="headline"><div class="headline__highlight"><div class="headline__inner headline__inner--highlight"> <h1 class="headline__title"> <span>Ausser Kontrolle geraten: Madrooba, ein Reisbrei aus den Emiraten</span></h1></div></div> <div class="headline__inner"><p class="headline__lead">Er gilt als das Resultat von Pannen oder Nachlässigkeiten: Madrooba, ein würziger Reisbrei mit Huhn, ist ein typisches Gericht der Küche von Dubai, wird in Varianten aber auch in Bahrain, Qatar und Oman gekocht.</p> <div class="progressbar__wrapper"><div class="progressbar"><div class="progressbar__line"><div class="progressbar__line--fill" style="transform:translateX(-100%);"></div></div></div></div> <div class="headline__meta"> <div class="metainfo metainfo--content"><span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">Samuel Herzog (Text und Bilder)</span>    <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date"><time datetime="2023-03-03T04:30:00.000Z"> 03.03.2023, 05.30 Uhr </time> <span data-tooltip="Lesezeit 6 min" class="metainfo__item--reading-time"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="reading-time__icon nzz-icons--small nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="0" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round" d="M11.77 7.39v5.62l3.8 1.32"/><circle stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="1" cx="12" cy="12" r="8.5" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round"/></svg> <span>6 min</span></span></span></div> <div class="headline__meta-extra"><div class="actionbar actionbar--header">   <div class="actionbar__item actionbar__item--print"><div class="actionbar__button actionbar__button--header"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path pid="0" d="M7 16.81H4.5c-.55 0-1-.45-1-1v-7c0-.55.45-1 1-1h15c.55 0 1 .45 1 1v7c0 .55-.45 1-1 1H17" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linejoin="round"/><path pid="1" d="M7 7.81V3.5c0-.55.45-1 1-1h8c.55 0 1 .45 1 1v4.31" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linejoin="round"/><path pid="2" d="M17 14v6.5c0 .55-.45 1-1 1H8c-.55 0-1-.45-1-1V14h10z" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round"/><path pid="3" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" d="M14.34 18.95l-1.15.69-1.18-.7-1.18.7-1.17-.7m4.68-2.47l-1.15.69-1.18-.7-1.18.7-1.17-.7M5.3 9.5h1"/></svg> <span class="actionbar__label">Drucken</span></div></div> <div class="actionbar__item share" style="position:relative;"><div class="contextmenu-closed"><div class="actionbar__button actionbar__button--header"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path pid="0" d="M13.73 17.7c0 .58.34.73.75.34l6.71-6.44c.41-.4.41-1.04 0-1.44l-6.71-6.44c-.41-.4-.75-.24-.75.34v3.25c-6.2 0-11.23 3.59-11.23 9.98 0 1.12.15 2.19.44 3.22 1.35-4.83 5.67-6.04 10.8-6.04v3.24z" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round"/></svg> <span class="actionbar__label">Teilen</span></div></div>  <div data-nzz-tid="contextmenu-overlay" class="overlay--container"> </div></div> </div></div></div></div></div><figure id="id-doc-1gqbjateu1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image image--containerwidth" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/63a4ca99-ad53-484f-8fc5-532b37120b44.jpeg?width=1200&height=800&fit=crop&quality=75&auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:66.67%;"><img alt="Genossen wird der kurkumagelbe Reisbrei Madrooba im Emirat Dubai zu jeder Tages- und Nachtzeit." data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="5043" height="3362" src="https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/63a4ca99-ad53-484f-8fc5-532b37120b44.jpeg?width=750&height=500&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5043,3362,x0,y0" loading="eager" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/63a4ca99-ad53-484f-8fc5-532b37120b44.jpeg?width=1120&height=747&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5043,3362,x0,y0 1120w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/63a4ca99-ad53-484f-8fc5-532b37120b44.jpeg?width=2240&height=1493&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5043,3362,x0,y0 2240w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/63a4ca99-ad53-484f-8fc5-532b37120b44.jpeg?width=976&height=651&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5043,3362,x0,y0 976w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/63a4ca99-ad53-484f-8fc5-532b37120b44.jpeg?width=1952&height=1301&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5043,3362,x0,y0 1952w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/63a4ca99-ad53-484f-8fc5-532b37120b44.jpeg?width=736&height=491&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5043,3362,x0,y0 736w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/63a4ca99-ad53-484f-8fc5-532b37120b44.jpeg?width=1472&height=981&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5043,3362,x0,y0 1472w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/63a4ca99-ad53-484f-8fc5-532b37120b44.jpeg?width=375&height=250&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5043,3362,x0,y0 375w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/63a4ca99-ad53-484f-8fc5-532b37120b44.jpeg?width=750&height=500&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5043,3362,x0,y0 750w" sizes="(min-width: 1200px) 1120px, (min-width: 1024px) 976px, (min-width: 768px) 736px" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);">  </div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"> <div class="image-description image-description--containerwidth"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption image-description__caption--large">Genossen wird der kurkumagelbe Reisbrei Madrooba im Emirat Dubai zu jeder Tages- und Nachtzeit.</h2> </div></figcaption> </figure><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1gpngoemn0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text">Sie lässt alles stehen und liegen, rennt aus dem Haus, dem Esel hinterher, der sich losgerissen hat, vergnügt in die Wüste hinaustrottet. Als sie das einzige Reittier der Familie endlich eingefangen hat und in ihre Küche zurückkehrt, steigt ein fieser Rauch aus dem Topf mit dem Mittagessen auf. Ehe der Hühnerreis anbrennt, kann sie gerade noch Wasser angiessen, die Sache aus der Gefahrenzone rühren. Der Reis aber ist jetzt ein weicher Brei, die Geflügelstücke fallen auseinander. Was werden der Mann und die Kinder sagen? Die Jüngste, die sowieso nichts isst? Die Köchin zupft das Fleisch gänzlich vom Knochen, gibt frische Kräuter und etwas Kurkuma dazu, rettet, was noch zu retten ist. Als ihre Lieben das Ergebnis der Panne kosten, sind sie begeistert, die Kleinste verlangt in den nächsten Tagen gar wieder und wieder nach dem kulinarischen Unglücksfall.</p><div id="id-doc-ce4118d6" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="barrier" is-new-line-child="true"><div id="paywall_container"></div> <div class="disabled-overlay"><div class="disabled-overlay--show--text"><h3>Optimieren Sie Ihre Browsereinstellungen</h3> <p> NZZ.ch benötigt JavaScript für wichtige Funktionen. Ihr Browser oder Adblocker verhindert dies momentan. </p> <p>Bitte passen Sie die Einstellungen an.</p></div></div></div><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1gpngoemq0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">So stellt sich Ali M. Alrais die Genese von Madrooba vor, einem typischen Gericht der Küche von Dubai, das in Varianten auch in Bahrain, Qatar und Oman gekocht wird: «Madrooba ist im Grunde ein ausser Kontrolle geratenes Machboos oder ein Biryani, das zu lange und mit zu viel Flüssigkeit auf dem Herd gestanden hat. Es kann nur in einer Küche erfunden worden sein, die bloss über wenige Zutaten verfügte und auf eine einzige Feuerstelle, einen einzigen Kessel angewiesen war.»</p><h2 data-team-subtitle="" id="id-doc-1gqetn18g0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="subtitle" is-new-line-child="true" class="subtitle articlecomponent nzzinteraction"><span>Missgeschicke führen zu kulinarischen Höhenflügen</span></h2><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1gpngoemr0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Zahllose Spezialitäten dieser Welt gelten als das Resultat von Pannen oder Nachlässigkeiten. Gleichwohl ist die Entstehungsgeschichte bei diesem Rezept in besonderem Masse bedeutend, denn nur in Verbindung mit einer solchen Story führt der Brei in eine Zeit zurück, als in Dubai noch nicht überall Wolkenkratzer standen und die Füsse noch einen anderen Untergrund gewohnt waren als den Marmorboden einer Mega-Mall.</p><figure id="id-doc-1gqbjes190" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image nzzinteraction" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/f3aab858-8cd1-41d1-90fe-38bb86b2ee18.jpeg?width=1200&height=800&fit=crop&quality=75&auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:66.65%;"><img alt="Rania und Ali M. Alrais pflegen im Arabian Tea House von Dubai die emiratische Küche." data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="5518" height="3678" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/f3aab858-8cd1-41d1-90fe-38bb86b2ee18.jpeg?width=680&height=453&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5517,3678,x0,y0 680w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/f3aab858-8cd1-41d1-90fe-38bb86b2ee18.jpeg?width=1360&height=907&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5517,3678,x0,y0 1360w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/f3aab858-8cd1-41d1-90fe-38bb86b2ee18.jpeg?width=327&height=218&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5517,3678,x0,y0 327w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/f3aab858-8cd1-41d1-90fe-38bb86b2ee18.jpeg?width=654&height=436&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5517,3678,x0,y0 654w" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);">  </div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"> <div class="image-description"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption image-description__caption--large">Rania und Ali M. Alrais pflegen im Arabian Tea House von Dubai die emiratische Küche.</h2> </div></figcaption> </figure><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1gpngoemt0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Und diese Vergangenheit ist das, was Ali M. Alrais in seinen Restaurants verkauft. Als er 1997 das erste Arabian Tea House gründete, glaubte seine Umgebung nicht an den Erfolg: «Wer geht schon in ein Lokal, um Emirati-Küche zu essen, haben sich alle gefragt. Ich aber wusste, dass die Touristen kommen würden.» Also renovierte Ali ein stattliches Haus im Bastakia-Viertel von Dubai, am Südufer des Creek. Das alte, einst vor allem von iranischstämmigen Händlern bewohnte Quartier mit seinen schönen Palästen und Windtürmen war damals schwer heruntergekommen. Gegen Ende der neunziger Jahre allerdings besann sich auch die Stadtregierung auf ihr Erbe und machte sich daran, alles instand zu stellen. Heute wirkt die ganze Gegend perfekt stabilisiert, aufgeräumt und durchorganisiert, fast fühlt man sich wie in einer Mall mit historisierendem Dekor.</p><figure id="id-doc-1gqbji6k61" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image nzzinteraction" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/e270da93-2201-4078-bea8-18b39245b4ee.jpeg?width=1200&height=800&fit=crop&quality=75&auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:66.67%;"><img alt="Ein Spaziergang zum Bastakia-Palast am Ufer des Creek regt den Appetit an." data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="6000" height="4000" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/e270da93-2201-4078-bea8-18b39245b4ee.jpeg?width=680&height=453&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6000,4000,x0,y0 680w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/e270da93-2201-4078-bea8-18b39245b4ee.jpeg?width=1360&height=907&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6000,4000,x0,y0 1360w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/e270da93-2201-4078-bea8-18b39245b4ee.jpeg?width=327&height=218&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6000,4000,x0,y0 327w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/e270da93-2201-4078-bea8-18b39245b4ee.jpeg?width=654&height=436&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=6000,4000,x0,y0 654w" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);">  </div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"> <div class="image-description"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption image-description__caption--large">Ein Spaziergang zum Bastakia-Palast am Ufer des Creek regt den Appetit an.</h2> </div></figcaption> </figure><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1gpngoemu0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Ich treffe Ali und seine Frau Raina am Morgen früh in dem hellen Lokal mit den blauen Bänken, den weissen Marmorkieseln am Boden und den altmodischen Fotos an den Wänden. Mit einem stolzen Lächeln weist Ali mich auf all die Familien hin, die um uns herumsitzen und sich Tabletts mit Fladenbrot, Käse, Eierspeisen, Bohnen, Fisch und Salaten teilen: «Heute kommen auch viele Einheimische her, um hier zu frühstücken. Sie essen mit den Händen. Das zeigt, dass sie sich wohlfühlen. Und das freut mich ganz besonders.» Ich glaube dem grauhaarigen Herrn in der strahlend weissen Kandura, dass es ihm nicht nur ums Geschäft geht. Ali blickt auf eine erfolgreiche Karriere bei Gulf und Qatar Air zurück, das Arabian Tea House versteht er als seine Art, «etwas zurückzugeben. Es geht mir darum, unsere Kultur zu zeigen – und nichts ist so nahe bei den Menschen wie die kulinarische Kultur.»</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1gpngoen00" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Trotz allem Idealismus war sein Teehaus bald so erfolgreich, dass es heute in Dubai eine ganze Reihe von Lokalen gibt, die nach einem ähnlichen Modell funktionieren, teilweise mit fast identischen Menus. «Man könnte sich darüber aufregen», sagt Alis Frau Raina, die in Lausanne an der Hotelfachschule studiert hat, «aber eigentlich ist es doch gut, dass sich immer mehr Leute für die kulinarische Tradition unseres Landes einsetzen.»</p><h2 data-team-subtitle="" id="id-doc-1gqev6iv90" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="subtitle" is-new-line-child="true" class="subtitle articlecomponent nzzinteraction"><span>Die Rezeptur beruht auf einer mündlichen Überlieferung</span></h2><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1gpngoen10" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Das Arabian Tea House kocht nach Rezepten von Alis Mutter Marjam. «Als wir hier anfingen, gab es keinerlei Vorbild, an das wir uns halten konnten, auch keine Rezeptbücher», erinnert sich Ali: «Also habe ich meiner Mutter in der Küche zugeschaut und alles aufgeschrieben. Damit bin ich dann zu meinen Köchen gegangen, die haben das nachgemacht – und das Resultat habe ich wiederum Yuma («Mutter») zu kosten gegeben, sie hat korrigiert . . . So haben wir allmählich ein Menu zusammengestellt, das wir jetzt in all unseren Filialen anbieten.»</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1gpngoen30" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Auch für Alis Frau, die sich um die Standardisierung der Rezepte kümmert und sie als Managerin in die Bestellabläufe des Restaurants übersetzt, ist Schwiegermama die Referenz. In der Küche des Arabian Tea House zeigt mir Raina gemeinsam mit einem ihrer Chefs, wie sie Madrooba zubereitet. Man kann dieses Gericht auch mit Fisch oder Lamm kochen, die gängigste Version aber verwendet Huhn («deyay»). Gelegentlich kommen Tomaten in den Topf, und einzelne Rezepte, vor allem aus den USA, packen sehr viele verschiedene Gewürze hinein. Raina aber beschränkt sich auf Kardamom, Pfeffer und Kurkuma, ausserdem Koriander und Dill. Das überrascht mich, denn ich dachte immer, die Küchen Arabiens seien alle überreich an Gewürzen. Schliesslich trieben die Seefahrer vom Golf ja schon in der Antike Handel mit Pfeffer, Nelken und Zimt, ihnen stand also immer alles zur Verfügung.</p><figure id="id-doc-1gqbjgije0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image nzzinteraction" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/1050c387-9b75-4c6e-918a-cb28151d3570.jpeg?width=1200&height=800&fit=crop&quality=75&auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:66.67%;"><img alt="Madrooba kann mit Fisch oder Lamm zubereitet werden. Die gängigste Version verwendet Hühnerfleisch. So wird sie auch im Arabian Tea House aufgetischt." data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="5208" height="3472" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/1050c387-9b75-4c6e-918a-cb28151d3570.jpeg?width=680&height=453&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5208,3472,x0,y0 680w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/1050c387-9b75-4c6e-918a-cb28151d3570.jpeg?width=1360&height=907&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5208,3472,x0,y0 1360w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/1050c387-9b75-4c6e-918a-cb28151d3570.jpeg?width=327&height=218&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5208,3472,x0,y0 327w, https://img.nzz.ch/2023/02/28/1050c387-9b75-4c6e-918a-cb28151d3570.jpeg?width=654&height=436&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=5208,3472,x0,y0 654w" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);">  </div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"> <div class="image-description"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption image-description__caption--large">Madrooba kann mit Fisch oder Lamm zubereitet werden. Die gängigste Version verwendet Hühnerfleisch. So wird sie auch im Arabian Tea House aufgetischt.</h2> </div></figcaption> </figure><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1gpngoen50" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">«Die Küche dieser Gegend ist traditionell eher einfach und kommt oft mit wenigen Zutaten aus, die sehr bewusst eingesetzt werden», erklärt mir Raina. Gewürzorgien wie in Indien, Persien oder auch im benachbarten Kuwait sind den Emirati demnach fremd. Es gibt auch Köche, die Weizen oder Hülsenfrüchte an der Stelle von Reis verarbeiten. </p><h2 data-team-subtitle="" id="id-doc-1gqevmo760" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="subtitle" is-new-line-child="true" class="subtitle articlecomponent nzzinteraction"><span>Gutes Rühren ist ausschlaggebend für den Geschmack</span></h2><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1gpngoen70" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">«Ich würde dann nicht mehr von Madrooba sprechen», meint Raina, räumt aber ein, dass es «kein ‹richtiges› Madrooba-Rezept gibt», dass jede Familie «auf etwas andere Gepflogenheiten schwört». Der Name des Rezepts kommt von dem arabischen Wort für «schlagen» – gemeint ist das, was man mit dem Kochlöffel tut, wenn man den Reisbrei wieder und wieder umrührt. Manche mögen ihr Madrooba noch etwas körnig, andere eher breiig, einige nehmen sogar den Mixer und verwandeln so alles in eine homogene Crème. «Wenn das Madrooba gelingt, dann hat es ein Aroma, das mich zurückführt in den Winter von einst, in die gemütliche Atmosphäre der alten Häuser, die viele von uns noch aus ihrer Kindheit kennen.»</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1gpngoen90" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">In einer Stadt wie Dubai, wo es kaum möglich ist, zu Fuss unterwegs zu sein, ist ein Gericht wie Madrooba vielleicht tatsächlich die einzig mögliche Verbindung zurück in eine andere, in Jahren gerechnet eigentlich gar nicht so ferne Zeit, als noch nicht alles auf Rädern unterwegs war. Die Emirati machen allerdings nicht gerade den Eindruck, als würden sie diesen Tagen mehr als ein paar nostalgische Tränen nachweinen. Man kann sie verstehen, denn immerhin ist es doch eher unwahrscheinlich, dass sich das Reittier einer modernen Familie von allein aus der Garage losreisst und in der Wüste verschwindet.</p><div id="id-doc-1gppkn95u0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="enumeration-regular" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent nzzinteraction"><h2 class="enumeration__title">Zutaten (Hauptspeise für 4 Personen)</h2> <ul class="enumeration enumeration--regular"><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">500 g Huhn in Stücken (zum Beispiel zwei Keulen)</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">2 Zwiebeln, fein gehackt</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">3 Kardamomkapseln</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">1 getrocknete Limette, mit einer Gabel eingestochen</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">700 ml Wasser für das Huhn</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">10 g Koriandergrün, gehackt</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">10 g Dill, gehackt</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">2 TL Salz</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">1 TL schwarzer Pfeffer, gemahlen</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">1 TL Kurkuma</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">350 g gedünsteter Basmati</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">Ghee</li></ul></div><div id="id-doc-1gppkp0dg0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="enumeration-regular" data-vars-danzz-last-article-element="true" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent nzzinteraction"><h2 class="enumeration__title">Zubereitung</h2> <ul class="enumeration enumeration--regular"><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">Huhn, Zwiebel, Kardamom und getrocknete Limette in einer Pfanne mit Wasser bedecken (etwa 700 ml), zum Kochen bringen, 30 Minuten sanft garen, bis das Fleisch sich von den Knochen löst.</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">Huhn aus der Brühe heben, Haut abziehen, Fleisch von den Knochen lösen, kräftig auseinanderzupfen. Zerfasertes Fleisch zurück in die Brühe geben.</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">Koriander, Dill, Salz, Pfeffer und Kurkuma einrühren, 10 Minuten auf kleiner Flamme köcheln lassen.</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">Reis in Portionen in die Hühnersauce rühren. Sauce dabei auf kleiner Flamme halten. Mit einem Löffel weiterrühren, bis der Reis die gewünschte Konsistenz erreicht hat. Bei Bedarf immer wieder etwas Wasser zugeben.</li><li data-team-li="" class="enumeration__item">Auf Teller verteilen, grosszügig mit Ghee beträufeln.</li></ul></div><div id="id-doc-1gpngnhro1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="sharebox" is-new-line-child="true" class="nzzinteraction"><div class="sharebox"><div class="sharebox__line"></div> <ul class="sharebox__content"><li class="sharebox__item sharebox__item--bookmark"></li> <li class="sharebox__item sharebox__item--print"><a href="" aria-current="page" title="Drucken" class="sharebox__link nuxt-link-exact-active nuxt-link-active"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="sharebox__icon sharebox__icon--print svg-print nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path pid="0" d="M7 16.81H4.5c-.55 0-1-.45-1-1v-7c0-.55.45-1 1-1h15c.55 0 1 .45 1 1v7c0 .55-.45 1-1 1H17" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linejoin="round"/><path pid="1" d="M7 7.81V3.5c0-.55.45-1 1-1h8c.55 0 1 .45 1 1v4.31" fill="none" stroke="#000" 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Wir nehmen Sie mit auf einen kulinarischen Abstecher in die Ferne.</p></div> <div class="alias-teaser-embed-list__teasers"><div id="id-ld_1710095" data-nzz-tid="teaser" data-nzz-ct="" class="teaser teaser__layout--longformstandard teaser--size-alias-teaser-embed">    <div flag-item="[object Object]" flag-size="alias-teaser-embed" class="poster poster--alias-teaser-embed poster--alias-teaser-embed-longformstandard"><figure class="poster__figure poster__figure--image"><a href="/reisen/waldviertler-mohnnudeln-suesser-gruss-aus-niederoesterreich-ld.1710095" data-nzz-referrer="aliasTeaserEmbedList" class="teaser__link teaser__link--poster teaser__link--poster-alias-teaser-embed"><div class="image-placeholder poster__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:100%;"><img alt="Mohn hat kein sehr kräftiges Aroma: In diesem Rezept aber kommt sein ganzer Charme zur Geltung." src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2022/11/08/71b4f755-30b4-4f82-8d4d-47b918362a1c.jpeg?width=72&height=72&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=3277,3277,x820,y0 72w, https://img.nzz.ch/2022/11/08/71b4f755-30b4-4f82-8d4d-47b918362a1c.jpeg?width=144&height=144&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=3277,3277,x820,y0 144w" width="3277" height="3277" class="image-placeholder__image poster__image">    </div></a></figure></div>  <div class="teaser__content teaser__content--alias-teaser-embed"><a href="/reisen/waldviertler-mohnnudeln-suesser-gruss-aus-niederoesterreich-ld.1710095" data-nzz-referrer="aliasTeaserEmbedList" ordinal-number="1" class="teaser__link"><div class="teaser__wrapper">   <h2 class="teaser__title teaser__title--alias-teaser-embed teaser__title--longformstandard teaser__title--0">  <span class="teaser__title-name first">Mohnnudeln: süsse Botschafter des niederösterreichischen Waldviertels</span></h2>   </div>  </a> <div bookmark-type="article" bookmark-sub-type="teaser" class="metainfo metainfo--alias-teaser-embed metainfo--longformstandard"><div class="metainfo__main metainfo__main--longformstandard"> <div class="metainfo__wrapper"> <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">Samuel Herzog (Text und Bilder)</span> <time datetime="2022-11-11T04:30:00.000Z" class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date">11.11.2022</time>   </div> </div> <div class="metainfo__actions metainfo__actions--longformstandard ">  </div></div> </div></div><div id="id-ld_1682066" data-nzz-tid="teaser" data-nzz-ct="" class="teaser teaser__layout--longformstandard teaser--size-alias-teaser-embed">    <div flag-item="[object Object]" flag-size="alias-teaser-embed" class="poster poster--alias-teaser-embed poster--alias-teaser-embed-longformstandard"><figure class="poster__figure poster__figure--image"><a href="/reisen/nam-chup-yum-dip-mit-frischen-garnelen-aus-thailand-ld.1682066" data-nzz-referrer="aliasTeaserEmbedList" class="teaser__link teaser__link--poster teaser__link--poster-alias-teaser-embed"><div class="image-placeholder poster__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:100%;"><img alt="Was wären die Thailänder ohne ihre Relishes? 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Nach dem Bad im Ganges packt die Pilger Lust auf Süsses; da kommt die safranige Crème gerade recht." src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2021/12/28/746c8809-c66e-47cf-8242-ccc98722004f.jpeg?width=72&height=72&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=2838,2838,x709,y0 72w, https://img.nzz.ch/2021/12/28/746c8809-c66e-47cf-8242-ccc98722004f.jpeg?width=144&height=144&fit=bounds&quality=75&auto=webp&crop=2838,2838,x709,y0 144w" width="2838" height="2838" class="image-placeholder__image poster__image">    </div></a></figure></div>  <div class="teaser__content teaser__content--alias-teaser-embed"><a href="/reisen/indische-leckerei-rabri-eine-suesse-creme-aus-milch-und-safran-ld.1661867" data-nzz-referrer="aliasTeaserEmbedList" ordinal-number="5" class="teaser__link"><div class="teaser__wrapper">   <h2 class="teaser__title teaser__title--alias-teaser-embed teaser__title--regular teaser__title--4">  <span class="teaser__title-name">Rabri – göttlicher Nektar aus Indien</span></h2>   </div>  </a> <div bookmark-type="article" bookmark-sub-type="teaser" class="metainfo metainfo--alias-teaser-embed metainfo--regular"><div class="metainfo__main metainfo__main--regular"> <div class="metainfo__wrapper"> <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">Samuel Herzog (Text und Bilder)</span> <time datetime="2021-12-31T04:30:00.000Z" class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date">31.12.2021</time>   </div> </div> <div class="metainfo__actions metainfo__actions--regular ">  </div></div> </div></div></div></div><section id="id-doc-1gpngnhro2" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="moreToSubject" data-vars-danzz-last-article-element="true" is-new-line-child="true" class="pageelement pageelement--moretosubject article-tags-above nzzinteraction"><div class="pageelement__inner"><div class="container container--moretosubject"><div class="container__header-title container__header-title--moretosubject"><span class="container__header-text container__header-text--moretosubject">Passend zum Artikel</span></div></div> <div class="widget__row widget__row--noBorder"><div data-team-more-to-subject class="widget--articlelist-a"><article data-source-element-widget="" class="teaser--article teaser--articlelist-a "><div id="id-ld_1724511" data-nzz-tid="teaser" data-nzz-ct="" class="teaser teaser__layout--longformstandard teaser--size-articlelist-a">    <div flag-item="[object Object]" flag-size="articlelist-a" class="poster poster--articlelist-a poster--articlelist-a-longformstandard"><figure class="poster__figure poster__figure--image"><a href="/reisen/voellig-losgeloest-am-rande-von-dubais-wueste-steht-die-groesste-farm-mit-gruenzeug-ohne-bodenhaftung-ld.1724511" data-nzz-referrer="articleTeaser" class="teaser__link teaser__link--poster teaser__link--poster-articlelist-a"><div class="image-placeholder poster__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:100%;"><img alt="Robert Fellows, Direktor von Bustanica, im Spinat-Raum. 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In Dubai steht die grösste Hors-sol-Farm der Welt</span></h2>  <div class="teaser__lead teaser__lead--articlelist-a teaser__lead--longformstandard">Um seine Feriengäste zu versorgen, braucht Dubai gewaltige Mengen an Nahrungsmitteln. Mehr als neunzig Prozent werden importiert. Hors-sol-Kulturen sind fast die einzige Möglichkeit, in dem Wüstenstaat etwas anzubauen. Mit Bustanica hat nun die grösste vertikale Farm der Welt ihren Betrieb aufgenommen.</div> </div>  </a> <div bookmark-type="article" bookmark-sub-type="teaser" class="metainfo metainfo--articlelist-a metainfo--longformstandard"><div class="metainfo__main metainfo__main--longformstandard"> <div class="metainfo__wrapper"> <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">Samuel Herzog (Text und Bilder)</span> <time class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date">16.02.2023</time>  <span data-tooltip="Lesezeit 9 min" class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--reading-time"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="reading-time__icon nzz-icons--small nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="0" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round" d="M11.77 7.39v5.62l3.8 1.32"/><circle stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="1" cx="12" cy="12" r="8.5" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round"/></svg> <span>9 min</span></span> </div> </div> <div class="metainfo__actions metainfo__actions--longformstandard ">  </div></div> </div></div> </article><article data-source-element-widget="" class="teaser--article teaser--articlelist-a "><div id="id-ld_1715153" data-nzz-tid="teaser" data-nzz-ct="" class="teaser teaser__layout--longformvisual teaser--size-articlelist-a">    <div flag-item="[object Object]" flag-size="articlelist-a" class="poster poster--articlelist-a poster--articlelist-a-longformvisual"><figure class="poster__figure poster__figure--image"><a href="/reisen/in-der-wueste-von-katar-der-beste-burger-der-welt-ld.1715153" data-nzz-referrer="articleTeaser" class="teaser__link teaser__link--poster teaser__link--poster-articlelist-a"><div class="image-placeholder poster__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:100%;"><img alt="Reifenspuren in der Wüste Katars. 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Dort gibt es nichts. Wieso machen sie es dann?</div> </div>  </a> <div bookmark-type="article" bookmark-sub-type="teaser" class="metainfo metainfo--articlelist-a metainfo--longformvisual"><div class="metainfo__main metainfo__main--longformvisual"> <div class="metainfo__wrapper"> <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">Michael Schilliger</span> <time class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date">09.12.2022</time>   </div> </div> <div class="metainfo__actions metainfo__actions--longformvisual ">  </div></div> </div></div> </article><article data-source-element-widget="" class="teaser--article teaser--articlelist-a "><div id="id-ld_145887" data-nzz-tid="teaser" data-nzz-ct="" class="teaser teaser__layout--regular teaser--size-articlelist-a">    <div flag-item="[object Object]" flag-size="articlelist-a" class="poster poster--articlelist-a poster--articlelist-a-regular"><figure class="poster__figure poster__figure--image"><a href="/gesellschaft/reise/unterwegs-im-emirat-ras-al-khaimah-der-scheich-bittet-zu-tisch-ld.145887" data-nzz-referrer="articleTeaser" class="teaser__link teaser__link--poster teaser__link--poster-articlelist-a"><div class="image-placeholder poster__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:100%;"><img alt="Naser Bin Hasan Alkas im Empfangsraum seines Hauses. «Wichtig ist mir, den Weg in eure Herzen zu finden», sagt der Scheich seinen Gästen. 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So werden Fremde mit Gastfreundschaft geradezu überhäuft.</div> </div>  </a> <div bookmark-type="article" bookmark-sub-type="teaser" class="metainfo metainfo--articlelist-a metainfo--regular"><div class="metainfo__main metainfo__main--regular"> <div class="metainfo__wrapper"> <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">Susanna Müller</span> <time class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date">17.02.2017</time>   </div> </div> <div class="metainfo__actions metainfo__actions--regular ">  </div></div> </div></div> </article></div></div></div></section></section> <div class="cve articlepromobox"></div>  <div id="adnz_bta_combined" componenttype="bta" class="container container--adnz-bta-combined container--adnz-bta-combined-forced"></div> </div></div></div></div> <div class="pageelement games-widget"><div class="pageelement__inner"> <div class="container--headline-bta"><h3 class="container__header-title--bta container__header-title--bta--hide-mobile">Kostenlose Onlinespiele</h3> <a 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style="width:72px;height:72px;"><path pid="0" d="M366.6 403.5c-3.5 0-6.9-.5-10.3-1.5l-163.6-50c-9-2.8-16.4-8.9-20.9-17.3s-5.4-18-2.6-27L249.8 44c4.5-14.8 18.5-25.1 34-25.1 3.5 0 6.9.5 10.3 1.5l163.6 50c9 2.8 16.4 8.9 20.9 17.3s5.4 18 2.6 27l-80.6 263.6c-4.5 14.9-18.5 25.2-34 25.2z" fill="#fff"/><path pid="1" d="M283.8 28c2.6 0 5.2.4 7.6 1.1l163.6 50c14 4.3 21.8 19.1 17.6 33L392 375.8c-3.4 11-13.8 18.7-25.4 18.7-2.6 0-5.2-.4-7.6-1.1l-163.6-50c-14-4.3-21.8-19.1-17.6-33l80.6-263.6c3.4-11.1 13.8-18.8 25.4-18.8m0-18c-19 0-36.8 12.4-42.6 31.5L160.6 305c-7.1 23.4 6.1 48.4 29.5 55.5l163.6 50c4.3 1.3 8.6 1.9 12.9 1.9 19 0 36.8-12.4 42.6-31.5l80.6-263.6c7.1-23.4-6.1-48.4-29.5-55.5l-163.6-50c-4.3-1.2-8.6-1.8-12.9-1.8z"/><path pid="2" d="M355 158.1c-2.5 0-4.9-.4-7.3-1.1-13.1-4-20.5-17.9-16.5-31.1 3.2-10.5 12.8-17.6 23.8-17.6 2.5 0 4.9.4 7.3 1.1 6.4 1.9 11.6 6.2 14.7 12.1 3.1 5.9 3.8 12.6 1.8 19-3.3 10.6-12.8 17.6-23.8 17.6z" fill="#fff"/><path pid="3" d="M355 117.4c1.6 0 3.1.2 4.7.7 4.1 1.2 7.4 4 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Madrooba deyay.",origins:[{name:e,identifier:du}],imageService:C,key:dv},caption:"Genossen wird der kurkumagelbe Reisbrei Madrooba im Emirat Dubai zu jeder Tages- und Nachtzeit."},styles:{position:"image--containerwidth"},data:{_captionDirective:{}},component:bi,prevElement:do0,nextElement:f},{identifier:f,id:"doc-1gpngoemn0",content:{text:"Sie lässt alles stehen und liegen, rennt aus dem Haus, dem Esel hinterher, der sich losgerissen hat, vergnügt in die Wüste hinaustrottet. Als sie das einzige Reittier der Familie endlich eingefangen hat und in ihre Küche zurückkehrt, steigt ein fieser Rauch aus dem Topf mit dem Mittagessen auf. Ehe der Hühnerreis anbrennt, kann sie gerade noch Wasser angiessen, die Sache aus der Gefahrenzone rühren. Der Reis aber ist jetzt ein weicher Brei, die Geflügelstücke fallen auseinander. Was werden der Mann und die Kinder sagen? Die Jüngste, die sowieso nichts isst? Die Köchin zupft das Fleisch gänzlich vom Knochen, gibt frische Kräuter und etwas Kurkuma dazu, rettet, was noch zu retten ist. Als ihre Lieben das Ergebnis der Panne kosten, sind sie begeistert, die Kleinste verlangt in den nächsten Tagen gar wieder und wieder nach dem kulinarischen Unglücksfall."},component:x,prevElement:t,nextElement:cj},{id:"doc-ce4118d6",identifier:cj,prevElement:f,nextElement:f},{identifier:f,id:"doc-1gpngoemq0",content:{text:"So stellt sich Ali M. Alrais die Genese von Madrooba vor, einem typischen Gericht der Küche von Dubai, das in Varianten auch in Bahrain, Qatar und Oman gekocht wird: «Madrooba ist im Grunde ein ausser Kontrolle geratenes Machboos oder ein Biryani, das zu lange und mit zu viel Flüssigkeit auf dem Herd gestanden hat. Es kann nur in einer Küche erfunden worden sein, die bloss über wenige Zutaten verfügte und auf eine einzige Feuerstelle, einen einzigen Kessel angewiesen war.»"},component:x,paidContent:c,prevElement:cj,nextElement:D},{identifier:D,id:"doc-1gqetn18g0",content:{title:"Missgeschicke führen zu kulinarischen Höhenflügen",id:"subtitle-missgeschicke-f-hren-zu-kulinarischen-h-henfl-gen"},data:{},component:ck,contentTable:b,paidContent:c,prevElement:f,nextElement:f},{identifier:f,id:"doc-1gpngoemr0",content:{text:"Zahllose Spezialitäten dieser Welt gelten als das Resultat von Pannen oder Nachlässigkeiten. Gleichwohl ist die Entstehungsgeschichte bei diesem Rezept in besonderem Masse bedeutend, denn nur in Verbindung mit einer solchen Story führt der Brei in eine Zeit zurück, als in Dubai noch nicht überall Wolkenkratzer standen und die Füsse noch einen anderen Untergrund gewohnt waren als den Marmorboden einer Mega-Mall."},component:x,paidContent:c,prevElement:D,nextElement:t},{identifier:t,id:dw,content:{image:{originalUrl:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F02\u002F28\u002Ff3aab858-8cd1-41d1-90fe-38bb86b2ee18.jpeg",url:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F02\u002F28\u002Ff3aab858-8cd1-41d1-90fe-38bb86b2ee18.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",mediaId:"ihbbLliSEjTe",width:5518,height:3678,mimeType:r,altText:"Auf fremden Tellern, Madrooba. Rania und Ali im Alrais im Arab Tea House",origins:[{name:e,identifier:dx}],imageService:C,key:"2023\u002F02\u002F28\u002Ff3aab858-8cd1-41d1-90fe-38bb86b2ee18.jpeg"},caption:"Rania und Ali M. Alrais pflegen im Arabian Tea House von Dubai die emiratische Küche."},data:{_captionDirective:{}},component:bi,paidContent:c,prevElement:f,nextElement:f},{identifier:f,id:"doc-1gpngoemt0",content:{text:"Und diese Vergangenheit ist das, was Ali M. Alrais in seinen Restaurants verkauft. Als er 1997 das erste Arabian Tea House gründete, glaubte seine Umgebung nicht an den Erfolg: «Wer geht schon in ein Lokal, um Emirati-Küche zu essen, haben sich alle gefragt. Ich aber wusste, dass die Touristen kommen würden.» Also renovierte Ali ein stattliches Haus im Bastakia-Viertel von Dubai, am Südufer des Creek. Das alte, einst vor allem von iranischstämmigen Händlern bewohnte Quartier mit seinen schönen Palästen und Windtürmen war damals schwer heruntergekommen. Gegen Ende der neunziger Jahre allerdings besann sich auch die Stadtregierung auf ihr Erbe und machte sich daran, alles instand zu stellen. Heute wirkt die ganze Gegend perfekt stabilisiert, aufgeräumt und durchorganisiert, fast fühlt man sich wie in einer Mall mit historisierendem Dekor."},component:x,paidContent:c,prevElement:t,nextElement:t},{identifier:t,id:dy,content:{image:{originalUrl:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F02\u002F28\u002Fe270da93-2201-4078-bea8-18b39245b4ee.jpeg",url:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F02\u002F28\u002Fe270da93-2201-4078-bea8-18b39245b4ee.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",mediaId:"loMk7Jk3vy0n",width:dz,height:dA,mimeType:r,altText:"Auf fremden Tellern, Madrooba. Bastakia Palast am Creek",origins:[{name:e,identifier:dB}],imageService:C,key:"2023\u002F02\u002F28\u002Fe270da93-2201-4078-bea8-18b39245b4ee.jpeg"},caption:cl},data:{_captionDirective:{highlightedTextRanges:{PrF6XbL0zK25:{start:o,end:74,text:cl,nativeRange:{}}}}},component:bi,paidContent:c,prevElement:f,nextElement:f},{identifier:f,id:"doc-1gpngoemu0",content:{text:"Ich treffe Ali und seine Frau Raina am Morgen früh in dem hellen Lokal mit den blauen Bänken, den weissen Marmorkieseln am Boden und den altmodischen Fotos an den Wänden. Mit einem stolzen Lächeln weist Ali mich auf all die Familien hin, die um uns herumsitzen und sich Tabletts mit Fladenbrot, Käse, Eierspeisen, Bohnen, Fisch und Salaten teilen: «Heute kommen auch viele Einheimische her, um hier zu frühstücken. Sie essen mit den Händen. Das zeigt, dass sie sich wohlfühlen. Und das freut mich ganz besonders.» Ich glaube dem grauhaarigen Herrn in der strahlend weissen Kandura, dass es ihm nicht nur ums Geschäft geht. Ali blickt auf eine erfolgreiche Karriere bei Gulf und Qatar Air zurück, das Arabian Tea House versteht er als seine Art, «etwas zurückzugeben. Es geht mir darum, unsere Kultur zu zeigen – und nichts ist so nahe bei den Menschen wie die kulinarische Kultur.»"},component:x,paidContent:c,prevElement:t,nextElement:f},{identifier:f,id:"doc-1gpngoen00",content:{text:"Trotz allem Idealismus war sein Teehaus bald so erfolgreich, dass es heute in Dubai eine ganze Reihe von Lokalen gibt, die nach einem ähnlichen Modell funktionieren, teilweise mit fast identischen Menus. «Man könnte sich darüber aufregen», sagt Alis Frau Raina, die in Lausanne an der Hotelfachschule studiert hat, «aber eigentlich ist es doch gut, dass sich immer mehr Leute für die kulinarische Tradition unseres Landes einsetzen.»"},component:x,paidContent:c,prevElement:f,nextElement:D},{identifier:D,id:"doc-1gqev6iv90",content:{title:"Die Rezeptur beruht auf einer mündlichen Überlieferung",id:"subtitle-die-rezeptur-beruht-auf-einer-m-ndlichen-berlieferung"},data:{},component:ck,contentTable:b,paidContent:c,prevElement:f,nextElement:f},{identifier:f,id:"doc-1gpngoen10",content:{text:"Das Arabian Tea House kocht nach Rezepten von Alis Mutter Marjam. «Als wir hier anfingen, gab es keinerlei Vorbild, an das wir uns halten konnten, auch keine Rezeptbücher», erinnert sich Ali: «Also habe ich meiner Mutter in der Küche zugeschaut und alles aufgeschrieben. Damit bin ich dann zu meinen Köchen gegangen, die haben das nachgemacht – und das Resultat habe ich wiederum Yuma («Mutter») zu kosten gegeben, sie hat korrigiert . . . So haben wir allmählich ein Menu zusammengestellt, das wir jetzt in all unseren Filialen anbieten.»"},component:x,paidContent:c,prevElement:D,nextElement:f},{identifier:f,id:"doc-1gpngoen30",content:{text:"Auch für Alis Frau, die sich um die Standardisierung der Rezepte kümmert und sie als Managerin in die Bestellabläufe des Restaurants übersetzt, ist Schwiegermama die Referenz. In der Küche des Arabian Tea House zeigt mir Raina gemeinsam mit einem ihrer Chefs, wie sie Madrooba zubereitet. Man kann dieses Gericht auch mit Fisch oder Lamm kochen, die gängigste Version aber verwendet Huhn («deyay»). Gelegentlich kommen Tomaten in den Topf, und einzelne Rezepte, vor allem aus den USA, packen sehr viele verschiedene Gewürze hinein. Raina aber beschränkt sich auf Kardamom, Pfeffer und Kurkuma, ausserdem Koriander und Dill. Das überrascht mich, denn ich dachte immer, die Küchen Arabiens seien alle überreich an Gewürzen. Schliesslich trieben die Seefahrer vom Golf ja schon in der Antike Handel mit Pfeffer, Nelken und Zimt, ihnen stand also immer alles zur Verfügung."},component:x,paidContent:c,prevElement:f,nextElement:t},{identifier:t,id:dC,content:{image:{originalUrl:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F02\u002F28\u002F1050c387-9b75-4c6e-918a-cb28151d3570.jpeg",url:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F02\u002F28\u002F1050c387-9b75-4c6e-918a-cb28151d3570.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",mediaId:"n-1tQ-bjbP2y",width:5208,height:3472,mimeType:r,altText:"Auf fremden Tellern, Madrooba. Madrooba im Arabian Tea House",origins:[{name:e,identifier:dD}],imageService:C,key:"2023\u002F02\u002F28\u002F1050c387-9b75-4c6e-918a-cb28151d3570.jpeg"},caption:"Madrooba kann mit Fisch oder Lamm zubereitet werden. Die gängigste Version verwendet Hühnerfleisch. So wird sie auch im Arabian Tea House aufgetischt."},data:{_captionDirective:{highlightedTextRanges:{"l5V-OV-82M6N":{start:o,end:150,text:"Madrooba kann mit Fisch oder Lamm zubereitet werden. Die gängigste Version verwendet Hühnerfleisch. So wird sie auch im Arabian Tea House aufgetischt.",nativeRange:{}}}}},component:bi,paidContent:c,prevElement:f,nextElement:f},{identifier:f,id:"doc-1gpngoen50",content:{text:"«Die Küche dieser Gegend ist traditionell eher einfach und kommt oft mit wenigen Zutaten aus, die sehr bewusst eingesetzt werden», erklärt mir Raina. Gewürzorgien wie in Indien, Persien oder auch im benachbarten Kuwait sind den Emirati demnach fremd. Es gibt auch Köche, die Weizen oder Hülsenfrüchte an der Stelle von Reis verarbeiten. "},component:x,paidContent:c,prevElement:t,nextElement:D},{identifier:D,id:"doc-1gqevmo760",content:{title:"Gutes Rühren ist ausschlaggebend für den Geschmack",id:"subtitle-gutes-r-hren-ist-ausschlaggebend-f-r-den-geschmack"},data:{},component:ck,contentTable:b,paidContent:c,prevElement:f,nextElement:f},{identifier:f,id:"doc-1gpngoen70",content:{text:"«Ich würde dann nicht mehr von Madrooba sprechen», meint Raina, räumt aber ein, dass es «kein ‹richtiges› Madrooba-Rezept gibt», dass jede Familie «auf etwas andere Gepflogenheiten schwört». Der Name des Rezepts kommt von dem arabischen Wort für «schlagen» – gemeint ist das, was man mit dem Kochlöffel tut, wenn man den Reisbrei wieder und wieder umrührt. Manche mögen ihr Madrooba noch etwas körnig, andere eher breiig, einige nehmen sogar den Mixer und verwandeln so alles in eine homogene Crème. «Wenn das Madrooba gelingt, dann hat es ein Aroma, das mich zurückführt in den Winter von einst, in die gemütliche Atmosphäre der alten Häuser, die viele von uns noch aus ihrer Kindheit kennen.»"},component:x,paidContent:c,prevElement:D,nextElement:f},{identifier:f,id:"doc-1gpngoen90",content:{text:"In einer Stadt wie Dubai, wo es kaum möglich ist, zu Fuss unterwegs zu sein, ist ein Gericht wie Madrooba vielleicht tatsächlich die einzig mögliche Verbindung zurück in eine andere, in Jahren gerechnet eigentlich gar nicht so ferne Zeit, als noch nicht alles auf Rädern unterwegs war. Die Emirati machen allerdings nicht gerade den Eindruck, als würden sie diesen Tagen mehr als ein paar nostalgische Tränen nachweinen. Man kann sie verstehen, denn immerhin ist es doch eher unwahrscheinlich, dass sich das Reittier einer modernen Familie von allein aus der Garage losreisst und in der Wüste verschwindet."},component:x,paidContent:c,prevElement:f,nextElement:at},{identifier:at,id:"doc-1gppkn95u0",content:{title:"Zutaten (Hauptspeise für 4 Personen)"},containers:{enumeration:[{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppknbvk0",content:{text:"500 g Huhn in Stücken (zum Beispiel zwei Keulen)"},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppknbvm0",content:{text:"2 Zwiebeln, fein gehackt"},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppknbvn0",content:{text:"3 Kardamomkapseln"},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppknbvo0",content:{text:"1 getrocknete Limette, mit einer Gabel eingestochen"},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppknbvp0",content:{text:"700 ml Wasser für das Huhn"},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppknbvp1",content:{text:"10 g Koriandergrün, gehackt"},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppknbvq0",content:{text:"10 g Dill, gehackt"},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppknbvr0",content:{text:"2 TL Salz"},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppknbvr1",content:{text:"1 TL schwarzer Pfeffer, gemahlen"},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppknbvs0",content:{text:"1 TL Kurkuma"},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppknbvt0",content:{text:"350 g gedünsteter Basmati"},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppknbvu0",content:{text:"Ghee"},component:m}]},component:dE,paidContent:c,prevElement:f,nextElement:at},{identifier:at,id:"doc-1gppkp0dg0",content:{title:"Zubereitung"},containers:{enumeration:[{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppkp0dh0",content:{text:"Huhn, Zwiebel, Kardamom und getrocknete Limette in einer Pfanne mit Wasser bedecken (etwa 700 ml), zum Kochen bringen, 30 Minuten sanft garen, bis das Fleisch sich von den Knochen löst."},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppkp3t60",content:{text:"Huhn aus der Brühe heben, Haut abziehen, Fleisch von den Knochen lösen, kräftig auseinanderzupfen. Zerfasertes Fleisch zurück in die Brühe geben."},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppkp3t70",content:{text:"Koriander, Dill, Salz, Pfeffer und Kurkuma einrühren, 10 Minuten auf kleiner Flamme köcheln lassen."},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppkp3t71",content:{text:"Reis in Portionen in die Hühnersauce rühren. Sauce dabei auf kleiner Flamme halten. Mit einem Löffel weiterrühren, bis der Reis die gewünschte Konsistenz erreicht hat. Bei Bedarf immer wieder etwas Wasser zugeben."},component:m},{identifier:l,id:"doc-1gppkp3t80",content:{text:"Auf Teller verteilen, grosszügig mit Ghee beträufeln."},component:m}]},component:dE,paidContent:c,prevElement:at,nextElement:cm,lastContentElement:c},{identifier:cm,id:"doc-1gpngnhro1",component:"sharebox",paidContent:c,prevElement:at,nextElement:cn},{identifier:cn,id:"doc-1gpqd35b80",content:{"alias-teaser-embed-list":{service:bj,params:{type:dF,layout:[aQ],mediaId:1677236}},list:{service:"list",params:{layout:"aliasTeaserEmbedList",count:5,offset:o,listId:1505,styles:a},articles:[{metadata:{contentTypeGroup:u,significantUpdate:b,language:{groupId:"0LCAT9FCubc7",label:y,locale:p},title:"Mohnnudeln: süsse Botschafter des niederösterreichischen Waldviertels",seoTitle:"Waldviertler Mohnnudeln: süsser Gruss aus Niederösterreich",nzzAuthors:[{external:b,name:ak,id:al}],designName:z,significantUpdateTill:"2022-11-10T21:59:27.623Z",nzzEditor:[{external:b,name:au,id:am}],department:{path:i,level:k,name:g},publicationDate:"2022-11-11T04:30:00.000Z",slug:"waldviertler-mohnnudeln-suesser-gruss-aus-niederoesterreich",firstPublicationDate:dG,authorLine:w,nzzCharacterCount:8362,lastProofreadRevision:49942230,numberOfContentComponents:32,leadText:"Bis 1934 war der Waldviertler Mohn sogar an der Londoner Börse notiert. 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an.","morpheus.sharebox","morpheus.alias-teaser-embed-list","ld.1710095",3277,2838,"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nzz.ch\u002Freisen\u002Frezepte-gegen-fernweh","morpheus.moreToSubject--internal","link-box-embed","gallery","video","fullwidth","matchcard-teaser","recipe","moreToSubject--internal","Er gilt als das Resultat von Pannen oder Nachlässigkeiten: Madrooba, ein würziger Reisbrei mit Huhn, ist ein typisches Gericht der Küche von Dubai, wird in Varianten aber auch in Bahrain, Qatar und Oman gekocht.","2023-03-05T23:30:30.587Z","classification=default,relevance=default,layout=longformstandard","Article","https:\u002F\u002Fjobs.nzz.ch\u002F","https:\u002F\u002Fabo.nzz.ch\u002Ffaq\u002Fkontakt","Deutschland","\u002Fdeutschland\u002Fmobilitaet","subscription","NZZ abonnieren","main","Startseite","Neuste Artikel","departments","brand","Amerika","Leserseite","\u002Fleserseite","extra","https:\u002F\u002Fzeitungsarchiv.nzz.ch","nzzbrands","NZZ am Sonntag 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Bitte prüfen Sie Ihre Internetverbindung oder versuchen Sie es später erneut.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","bellevue","morpheus.header","Er gilt als das Resultat von Pannen oder Nachlässigkeiten: Madrooba, ein würziger Reisbrei mit Huhn, ist ein typisches Gericht der Küche von Dubai, wird in Varianten aber auch in Bahrain, Qatar und Oman gekocht.","doc-1gqbjateu1","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F02\u002F28\u002F63a4ca99-ad53-484f-8fc5-532b37120b44.jpeg","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F02\u002F28\u002F63a4ca99-ad53-484f-8fc5-532b37120b44.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","HpIcOA2F-wiY","2141595270","2023\u002F02\u002F28\u002F63a4ca99-ad53-484f-8fc5-532b37120b44.jpeg","doc-1gqbjes190","2141595271","doc-1gqbji6k61",6000,4000,"2141595268","doc-1gqbjgije0","2141595269","enumeration-regular","alias-teaser-embed-list","2022-11-10T09:59:27.623Z",4916,"Mohn hat kein sehr kräftiges Aroma: In diesem Rezept aber kommt sein ganzer Charme zur Geltung.","ld.1682066",4584,2146,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002FO=75\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fnzz-img.s3.amazonaws.com\u002F2022\u002F05\u002F31\u002F3d263872-5078-4e00-b0c7-378a874df5a4.jpeg","Was wären die Thailänder ohne ihre Relishes? Nam chup yum ist nur eine der vielen Spielarten.","2022-04-22T04:18:30.182Z","Es ist eine ungewöhnliche Kombination, aber typisch für die Costa Brava: der Reiseintopf Mar i Muntanya, der Fisch oder Meeresfrüchte mit Fleisch und Würsten vereint.","ld.1674622",2871,"«Meer und Berg» beschreibt eigentlich eine ganze Kategorie von Gerichten, die typische Zutaten aus der See (Meeresfrüchte oder Fisch) und aus den Pyrenäen (in der Regel Schweinefleisch oder Huhn, manchmal Wild, oft auch Würste) mit Reis zu einem Eintopf kombinieren.",5218,3092,"ld.1660635","Schon die alten Maya sollen, längst vor Ankunft der ersten Spanier, Fleisch in einem Erdofen geschmort haben.",4256,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002FO=75\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fnzz-img.s3.amazonaws.com\u002F2021\u002F12\u002F28\u002F746c8809-c66e-47cf-8242-ccc98722004f.jpeg","ld.1661867","Rabri gilt als die berühmteste Spezialität der nordindischen Pilgerstadt Haridwar. Nach dem Bad im Ganges packt die Pilger Lust auf Süsses; da kommt die safranige Crème gerade recht.","Der Duft der grossen, weiten Welt lässt sich auch am heimischen Herd heraufköcheln. Wir nehmen Sie mit auf einen kulinarischen Abstecher in die Ferne.","morpheus.moreToSubject","Dubai","ld.1724511","Robert Fellows, Direktor von Bustanica, im Spinat-Raum.","Am Wochenende fahren die Bewohner Katars in die Wüste. Dort gibt es nichts. Wieso machen sie es dann?","ld.1715153",1743,"Reifenspuren in der Wüste Katars.","Shaima al-Tamimi","Susanna Müller","\u002Fgesellschaft\u002Freise","ld.145887",2820,394,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002FO=75\u002Fhttp:\u002F\u002Fnzz-img.s3.amazonaws.com\u002F2017\u002F2\u002F16\u002Fb504fcad-4a2b-4892-a3c9-69946bc45477.jpeg","Naser Bin Hasan Alkas im Empfangsraum seines Hauses. «Wichtig ist mir, den Weg in eure Herzen zu finden», sagt der Scheich seinen Gästen. 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