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Most recently she’s noticed the decline of the celebrity chef and the rise of the home cook.</p><div class="sc-1da33121-0 djsVGM"><div data-testid="article-author" class="sc-1da33121-1 kqGknt"><div><a href="/goodfood/by/besha-rodell-h29n0x" class="sc-5253e565-11 sc-1da33121-2 iczfBg gVjlrJ">Besha Rodell</a><p data-testid="article-datetime" class="sc-1da33121-4 iyjeEU"><time data-testid="storytile-timestamp" dateTime="2024-12-03T04:00:00+10:00">December 3, 2024</time></p></div></div><div class="sc-1da33121-5 dDFKwf noPrint" data-testid="article-actions"><div class="sc-1da33121-6 dqNmHJ"><div class="sc-cc955f69-0 bSBcHU"><button aria-checked="false" aria-label="Save article to read later" role="switch" type="button" class="sc-cc955f69-1 llblJV"><svg fill="none" height="24" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="1.5" viewBox="0 0 24 24" width="24" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="sc-37ae8458-0 bShwMW"><path d="M5.75 4C5.75 3.86193 5.86193 3.75 6 3.75H18C18.1381 3.75 18.25 3.86193 18.25 4L18.25 19.7709L12.8004 16.9682C12.2981 16.7099 11.7019 16.7099 11.1996 16.9682L5.75 19.7709L5.75 4Z"></path></svg><span class="sc-cc955f69-2 huPHkX">Save</span></button><div aria-hidden="true" class="sc-13c8dc5a-0 hEjQGj" role="tooltip"><button type="button" class="sc-37ae8458-1 cnxnga">Log in</button>, <a href="https://brisbanetimes.myfairfax.com.au/channel/7SMsQ6jjgIqPyo9XFzdzWg/members/signups/new?callback_uri=%2Fgoodfood%2Feating-out%2Flook-at-the-magic-good-food-editor-ardyn-bernoth-signs-off-in-signature-colourful-style-20241128-p5kueg.html" class="sc-5253e565-11 sc-37ae8458-5 iczfBg bAxagq">register</a> or <a href="https://subscribe.brisbanetimes.com.au/?promote_channel=HI_HL_GNL" class="sc-5253e565-11 sc-37ae8458-5 iczfBg bAxagq">subscribe</a> to save recipes for later.</div><div aria-hidden="true" class="sc-13c8dc5a-0 hEjQGj sc-37ae8458-3 jRZUoh" role="tooltip"><p class="sc-37ae8458-4 hRXiyX">You have reached your maximum number of saved items.</p><p>Remove items from your <a href="/goodfood/saved" class="sc-5253e565-11 sc-37ae8458-2 iczfBg OqYYh">saved list</a> to add more.</p></div><div aria-hidden="true" class="sc-13c8dc5a-0 enjNLI sc-604ab955-0 kFsJZj" role="tooltip"><p class="sc-604ab955-1 bkcRSz">Save this article for later</p><p class="sc-604ab955-2 euASXg">Add articles to your saved list and come back to them anytime.</p><button type="button" class="sc-5253e565-0 sc-5253e565-6 sc-604ab955-3 clhnVQ dXpZhL gOefEG">Got it</button></div></div><div class="sc-1da33121-7 dhWbGd"></div><div class="sc-cc955f69-0 bSBcHU"><button aria-controls="shareMenu" aria-expanded="false" aria-label="Share this content" data-ffx-event-action="cta click" data-ffx-event-attribute="article top" data-ffx-event-category="share content" data-ffx-event-label="share article" data-ffx-event-value="0" data-ffx-hittype="event" role="listbox" type="button" class="sc-cc955f69-1 llblJV"><svg height="24" fill="none" viewBox="0 0 24 24" width="24" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><path d="M14 16.1961L20 11L14 5.80383V8.99999C7 8.99999 4 15 4 19C6 15 10 13 14 13V16.1961Z" fill="#0A1633"></path></svg><span class="sc-cc955f69-2 huPHkX">Share</span></button></div></div></div></div><div class="noPrint article" id="meter-prompt-piano-id"></div></header><div class="sc-ba3b934f-0 jwfccj"><div data-testid="beyondwords-accordion-content" class="sc-ba3b934f-2 cezePF"><div data-testid="beyondwords-player-container" class="sc-ba3b934f-6 kkWxpr"><div id="beyondwords-player"></div></div></div></div><div class="sc-4adf058a-0 eYjtxP"><p>Ardyn Bernoth has a go-to order at <a class="inline-link" href="/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/di-stasio-pizzeria-review-20211221-h20q51.html">Di Stasio in Carlton</a>, where she’s sitting in the leafy courtyard in one of her signature brightly coloured, smartly cut long cotton dresses. “All the snacks,” she says, “bird of the day, a salad, and the olive oil soft serve.” And, as befits a late spring afternoon, an Aperol spritz to start. </p><p>Bernoth is in the midst of a victory lap of sorts, her final week as Good Food editor after 26 years with Fairfax/Nine and 14 years heading up Good Food and <em>The Age</em> food section, Epicure. It is as bittersweet as the Aperol in her drink – mostly fun and frothy, but one wonders what she will do with all that buoyant energy, and all that passion. </p><figure class="sc-f6696da4-1 gQNkmX"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.252%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/55cc222db4c2b97fa99462059c34c88a7002d0f9, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.252%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/55cc222db4c2b97fa99462059c34c88a7002d0f9 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.252%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/55cc222db4c2b97fa99462059c34c88a7002d0f9, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.252%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/55cc222db4c2b97fa99462059c34c88a7002d0f9 2x"/><img alt="Ardyn Bernoth at Di Stasio in Carlton." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.252%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/55cc222db4c2b97fa99462059c34c88a7002d0f9" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.252%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/55cc222db4c2b97fa99462059c34c88a7002d0f9, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.252%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/55cc222db4c2b97fa99462059c34c88a7002d0f9 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption class="sc-f6696da4-0 eqmGX" data-testid="figure-caption"><span>Ardyn Bernoth at Di Stasio in Carlton.</span><cite class="sc-f6696da4-2 jZQpUD"><span class="sc-f6696da4-3 hfVqIl">Luis Enrique Ascui</span></cite></figcaption></figure><p>What has kept her passionate all these years? It’s the food, of course – as an avid cook and gardener, the years of recipes and restaurants have fed her soul. But also? “It’s the hospitality,” she says. “It’s that feeling when you walk into a place, and it’s exciting and you can feel that someone has thought of every detail.” </p><p>She points to the cornucopia of concrete vases that decorate the Di Stasio courtyard, spilling foliage and flowers. “Mallory [Wall, the restaurant’s co-owner] stayed up until 2am for weeks, scouring Facebook Marketplace, finding these vases and urns from the gardens of Melbourne nonnas,” Bernoth says, wide-eyed with respect. “And look at the magic it’s created. It’s that kind of passion that lies at the heart of hospitality.” </p></div><div class="container"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-0 fgyoRe adWrapper noPrint sc-8081bea6-3 fFvzwl" data-testid="ad"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-1 epCboS"></div><small class="sc-54c4a04e-2 hVAhMy">Advertisement</small></div></div><div class="sc-4adf058a-0 eYjtxP"><p>Bernoth was born, almost literally, into hospitality. Her father was a chef and restaurateur in the NSW Northern Rivers region, and her mother was a waitress. (Her father also led the water-ski show on the restaurant’s adjacent Tweed River, and her mother was a tutu-wearing feature of that show.) </p><p>Ardyn was born at Murwillumbah Hospital and brought home to the restaurant, where her mother began working again almost immediately, eventually bundling the new bub into a walker tied to a chair with a rope. </p><figure class="sc-f6696da4-1 dbOiGP"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09034416826003824%2C$multiply_1.2063%2C$ratio_0.666667%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/631cef1d2d6bb0ae727615a6bd826ddf70f08e00, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09034416826003824%2C$multiply_2.4127%2C$ratio_0.666667%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/631cef1d2d6bb0ae727615a6bd826ddf70f08e00 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09034416826003824%2C$multiply_1.1587%2C$ratio_0.666667%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/631cef1d2d6bb0ae727615a6bd826ddf70f08e00, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09034416826003824%2C$multiply_2.3175%2C$ratio_0.666667%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/631cef1d2d6bb0ae727615a6bd826ddf70f08e00 2x"/><img alt="As a youngster, Ardyn Bernoth scooted around the family’s restaurant in a walker." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09034416826003824%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_0.666667%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/631cef1d2d6bb0ae727615a6bd826ddf70f08e00" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09034416826003824%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_0.666667%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/631cef1d2d6bb0ae727615a6bd826ddf70f08e00, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.09034416826003824%2C$multiply_3.0899%2C$ratio_0.666667%2C$width_378%2C$x_0%2C$y_0/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/631cef1d2d6bb0ae727615a6bd826ddf70f08e00 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 gDgfiA"/></picture></div><figcaption class="sc-f6696da4-0 eqmGX" data-testid="figure-caption"><span>As a youngster, Ardyn Bernoth scooted around the family’s restaurant in a walker.</span><cite class="sc-f6696da4-2 jZQpUD"><span class="sc-f6696da4-3 hfVqIl"> </span></cite></figcaption></figure><p>When the family moved to Melbourne, Bernoth’s father switched careers to insurance sales. But eventually, the siren song of the restaurant trade called to him, and he returned to cheffing – this time aboard the 19th-century tall ship, the Polly Woodside. Ardyn followed in her mother’s footsteps, waitressing in the family business. </p><p>But she had known since she was very young that she wanted to be a journalist. “I just woke up one day knowing that’s what I wanted to do,” she says. </p></div><div class="container"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-0 fgyoRe adWrapper noPrint sc-8081bea6-3 fFvzwl" data-testid="ad"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-1 epCboS"></div><small class="sc-54c4a04e-2 hVAhMy">Advertisement</small></div></div><div class="sc-4adf058a-0 eYjtxP"><p>She got her break the way most people do – through a combination of luck, personal connections, and pluck. Her mother was working as a hospital nurse, and the hospital’s cook happened to be married to an editor at Melbourne’s now-defunct evening newspaper, <em>The Herald</em>. </p><p>Bernoth had just finished uni and was working in PR, dressing up as a blood drop to persuade people to donate their precious bodily fluids. But the cook introduced the blood drop to the editor, and he offered her a job. </p><p>It was a powerful lesson in fate, but also in the ways help from established journalists has often been the only path into the profession for younger people. “You’ve got to pay it forward,” Bernoth says. </p><figure class="sc-f6696da4-1 gQNkmX"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2768713043478261%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_12%2C$y_45/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/cb242a061ced4e67f7d2ba8777375a542aaab139, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2768713043478261%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_12%2C$y_45/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/cb242a061ced4e67f7d2ba8777375a542aaab139 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2768713043478261%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_12%2C$y_45/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/cb242a061ced4e67f7d2ba8777375a542aaab139, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2768713043478261%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_12%2C$y_45/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/cb242a061ced4e67f7d2ba8777375a542aaab139 2x"/><img alt="A collection of concrete pots decorates the courtyard at Di Stasio Carlton." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2768713043478261%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_12%2C$y_45/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/cb242a061ced4e67f7d2ba8777375a542aaab139" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2768713043478261%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_12%2C$y_45/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/cb242a061ced4e67f7d2ba8777375a542aaab139, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.2768713043478261%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_12%2C$y_45/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/cb242a061ced4e67f7d2ba8777375a542aaab139 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption class="sc-f6696da4-0 eqmGX" data-testid="figure-caption"><span>A collection of concrete pots decorates the courtyard at Di Stasio Carlton.</span><cite class="sc-f6696da4-2 jZQpUD"><span class="sc-f6696da4-3 hfVqIl">Peter Bennetts</span></cite></figcaption></figure><p>After years as a property and business journalist, including a stint in London, Bernoth landed on the lifestyle pages, and the food pages in particular. She has reviewed for the <em>Good Food Guide</em> for many years, and as a result has an understanding of dining and cooking garnered over the past two decades. </p></div><div class="container"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-0 fgyoRe adWrapper noPrint sc-8081bea6-3 fFvzwl" data-testid="ad"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-1 epCboS"></div><small class="sc-54c4a04e-2 hVAhMy">Advertisement</small></div></div><div class="sc-4adf058a-0 eYjtxP"><p>So what are the most significant changes she’s observed? “I think the era of the celebrity chef is declining,” she says. She’s not sure of the reasons. Perhaps it’s that we’ve learned that deifying a group of influential people – often men – has led to abuses of power that will no longer be tolerated. But she also thinks that the way people cook at home is changing. </p><p>“Good Food’s recipe writers used to all be chefs,” she says. “And we still have some amazing chefs writing fantastic recipes. But people want simplicity. Home cooking is far more respected than it used to be – and now some of our best recipe writers are home cooks.” </p><figure class="sc-f6696da4-1 gQNkmX"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.23195332480818417%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_188%2C$y_48/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/19c2894f28bf97fb75884ab27f8e62e44f855e85, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.23195332480818417%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_188%2C$y_48/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/19c2894f28bf97fb75884ab27f8e62e44f855e85 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.23195332480818417%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_188%2C$y_48/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/19c2894f28bf97fb75884ab27f8e62e44f855e85, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.23195332480818417%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_188%2C$y_48/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/19c2894f28bf97fb75884ab27f8e62e44f855e85 2x"/><img alt="Ardyn Bernoth photographed for the launch of Good Food in 2012." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.23195332480818417%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_188%2C$y_48/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/19c2894f28bf97fb75884ab27f8e62e44f855e85" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.23195332480818417%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_188%2C$y_48/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/19c2894f28bf97fb75884ab27f8e62e44f855e85, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.23195332480818417%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_188%2C$y_48/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/19c2894f28bf97fb75884ab27f8e62e44f855e85 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption class="sc-f6696da4-0 eqmGX" data-testid="figure-caption"><span>Ardyn Bernoth photographed for the launch of Good Food in 2012.</span><cite class="sc-f6696da4-2 jZQpUD"><span class="sc-f6696da4-3 hfVqIl">James Brickwood</span></cite></figcaption></figure><p>On the restaurant front, she points to the change in service, particularly at the high end, that has made dining out so much more joyful. “It used to be this solemn march, so self-serious,” she says of fine-dining service. “And now you see real connection, real enthusiasm, and it makes the experience so much better.”</p><p>Even that change, she muses, may have something to do with the restaurant as a whole becoming the focus of diners and journalists, rather than just the chef. We have star sommeliers now, star restaurant managers, and the recognition of those folks may have led to them finding a way to shine, to make a real and personal impact on the experience of dining. </p></div><div class="container"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-0 fgyoRe adWrapper noPrint sc-8081bea6-3 fFvzwl" data-testid="ad"><div class="sc-54c4a04e-1 epCboS"></div><small class="sc-54c4a04e-2 hVAhMy">Advertisement</small></div></div><div class="sc-4adf058a-0 eYjtxP"><figure class="sc-f6696da4-1 gQNkmX"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 1000px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1464264962231261%2C$multiply_0.9841%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_21/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/c47884f19cf45e38e1f52b8809268c3e2c8a14a8, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1464264962231261%2C$multiply_1.9683%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_21/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/c47884f19cf45e38e1f52b8809268c3e2c8a14a8 2x"/><source media="(min-width: 750px)" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1464264962231261%2C$multiply_1.0159%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_21/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/c47884f19cf45e38e1f52b8809268c3e2c8a14a8, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1464264962231261%2C$multiply_2.0317%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_21/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/c47884f19cf45e38e1f52b8809268c3e2c8a14a8 2x"/><img alt="The salt-dusted olive oil soft-serve at Di Stasio Carlton." loading="lazy" src="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1464264962231261%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_21/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/c47884f19cf45e38e1f52b8809268c3e2c8a14a8" srcSet="https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1464264962231261%2C$multiply_0.7725%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_21/t_crop_custom/q_86%2Cf_auto/c47884f19cf45e38e1f52b8809268c3e2c8a14a8, https://static.ffx.io/images/$zoom_0.1464264962231261%2C$multiply_1.545%2C$ratio_1.5%2C$width_756%2C$x_0%2C$y_21/t_crop_custom/q_62%2Cf_auto/c47884f19cf45e38e1f52b8809268c3e2c8a14a8 2x" class="sc-7e695d1d-1 hYigVs"/></picture></div><figcaption class="sc-f6696da4-0 eqmGX" data-testid="figure-caption"><span>The salt-dusted olive oil soft-serve at Di Stasio Carlton.</span><cite class="sc-f6696da4-2 jZQpUD"><span class="sc-f6696da4-3 hfVqIl">Luis Enrique Ascui </span></cite></figcaption></figure><p>Our meal has come and gone – puffy bread with garlic butter, a glorious glazed rolled and stuffed chicken, a big green salad – and dessert has arrived. The soft vanilla ice-cream is drizzled with olive oil, but that’s not what makes this dessert so transcendent. </p><p>“It’s the salt,” I say, marvelling at the way the large but pliant flakes crunch ever so slightly and give the cold sweet ice-cream new dimension. </p><p>“Oh my god!” Bernoth cries in utter glee. “It’s the salt!” And from the childlike wonder in her eyes for a dessert she’s had countless times before but has found new ways to love, you can tell that no matter what she does for a living, the love of restaurants, of food, and of hospitality, will always be front and centre. </p><aside data-testid="related-story" class="sc-19c0b090-0 iHphBG"><div class="sc-6f4f1d46-0 dJzkXj" data-an-position="1" data-testid="story-tile"><figure class="sc-8825a2fb-0 jpvxIf"><a class="sc-cba76dee-0 oQxeF" href="/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/ronnie-di-stasios-guide-to-carlton-20220907-h267tj.html" tabindex="-1"><div class="sc-7e695d1d-0 dtxwlC"><picture><source media="(min-width: 750px)" 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