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Karpaten: In Rumänien entsteht Europas grösster Nationalpark

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Dort leben Bären, Wölfe, Luchse und bald auch wieder Bisons. Ein ambitioniertes Naturschutzprojekt soll dazu beitragen. Spoiler: Die Initiatoren setzen auf sanften Tourismus."><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="news_keywords" name="news_keywords" content="Wandern in Transsilvaniens Wäldern, wo Europas Yellowstone Park entstehen soll,Reisen, Nachrichten, NZZ"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="last-modified" name="last-modified" content="2024-07-21T18:00:28+02:00"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="date" name="date" content="2024-07-19T07:30:00+02:00"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="email" name="email" content="online.redaktion@nzz.ch"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="copyright" name="copyright" content="2024 Neue Zürcher Zeitung AG, Schweiz"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="fb:app_id" property="fb:app_id" content="138008459595436"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="fb:pages:0" property="fb:pages" content="143694099006529"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="fb:admins:0" property="fb:admins" content="1592685173"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="og:title" property="og:title" content="Karpaten: In Rumänien entsteht Europas grösster Nationalpark"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="og:image" property="og:image" content="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/a4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg?width=1200&amp;height=674&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3720,2092,x0,y388&amp;wmark=nzz"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="og:image:type" property="og:image:type" content="image/jpeg"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="og:image:width" property="og:image:width" content="1200"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="og:image:height" property="og:image:height" content="674"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="og:description" property="og:description" content="Zwei Drittel der letzten Urwälder Europas liegen in Rumänien. Dort leben Bären, Wölfe, Luchse und bald auch wieder Bisons. Ein ambitioniertes Naturschutzprojekt soll dazu beitragen. Spoiler: Die Initiatoren setzen auf sanften Tourismus."><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="og:type" property="og:type" content="article"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="og:canonical" property="og:url" content="https://www.nzz.ch/reisen/wandern-in-transsilvaniens-waeldern-wo-europas-yellowstone-park-entstehen-soll-ld.1771574"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="og:locale" property="og:locale" content="de-CH"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="og:site_name" property="og:site_name" content="Neue Zürcher Zeitung"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="twitter:title" name="twitter:title" content="Karpaten: In Rumänien entsteht Europas grösster Nationalpark"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="twitter:image" name="twitter:image" content="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/a4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg?width=1200&amp;height=674&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3720,2092,x0,y388&amp;wmark=nzz"><meta data-n-head="ssr" data-hid="twitter:description" name="twitter:description" content="Zwei Drittel der letzten Urwälder Europas liegen in Rumänien. 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16.287h1.443V9.528c0-2.81.055-4.39.194-5.457.049-.535.261-1.1.826-1.346.724-.315 1.9-.316 1.9-.316V.924L15.026.923v1.49z" _fill="#000"/></svg></a></div> <div class="header-main__container header-main__container--right" style="display:;"><!----> <!----> <!----></div></div></div></div> <!----> </div></div> <!----></div> <div id="page" class="nzz-page-transition"><!----> <div><div data-resor="false" class="article"><section data-vars-danzz-article="" data-nzz-tid="article" data-nzz-referrer="articleLink" data-nzz-article="true" class="container container--article layout--longformstandard adnz-infeed-placeholder"><div id="id-doc-1hi4b7pnj0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="header" data-vars-danzz-first-article-element="true" is-new-line-child="true" class="headline"><div class="headline__highlight"><div class="headline__inner headline__inner--highlight"><!----> <h1 class="headline__title"><!----> <span>Wandern in Transsilvaniens Wäldern, wo Europas Yellowstone Park entstehen soll</span></h1></div></div> <div class="headline__inner"><p class="headline__lead">Zwei Drittel der letzten Urwälder Europas liegen in Rumänien. Dort leben Bären, Wölfe, Luchse und bald auch wieder Bisons. Ein ambitioniertes Naturschutzprojekt soll dazu beitragen. Spoiler: Die Initiatoren setzen auf sanften Tourismus.</p> <div class="progressbar__wrapper"><div class="progressbar"><div class="progressbar__line"><div class="progressbar__line--fill" style="transform:translateX(-100%);"></div></div></div></div> <div class="headline__meta"><!----> <div class="metainfo metainfo--content"><!----> <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">Diana Laarz (Text),Sascha Montag (Bilder)</span> <!----> <!----> <!----> <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date"><time datetime="2024-07-19T03:30:00.000Z"> 19.07.2024, 05.30 Uhr </time> <span data-tooltip="Lesezeit 10 min" class="metainfo__item--reading-time"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="reading-time__icon nzz-icons--small nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="0" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round" d="M11.77 7.39v5.62l3.8 1.32"/><circle stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="1" cx="12" cy="12" r="8.5" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round"/></svg> <span>10 min</span></span></span></div> <div class="headline__meta-extra"><div class="actionbar actionbar--header"><!----> <div class="actionbar__item"><button class="actionbar__button button actionbar__button--header"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path pid="0" d="M20.5 14.13h-2.84c-.55 0-1 .45-1 1v4.38c0 .55.45 1 1 1h1.84c.55 0 1-.45 1-1V12c0-4.69-3.81-8.5-8.5-8.5h0c-4.69 0-8.5 3.81-8.5 8.5v7.5c0 .55.45 1 1 1h1.84c.55 0 1-.45 1-1v-4.38c0-.55-.45-1-1-1H3.5" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round"/><path pid="1" d="M13.86 17.54c.18-.11.18-.3 0-.42l-3.53-2.24c-.18-.11-.33-.02-.33.2v4.5c0 .22.15.32.33.2l3.53-2.24z" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round"/></svg> <span class="actionbar__label">Hören</span></button></div> <!----> <div class="actionbar__item actionbar__item--print"><div class="actionbar__button actionbar__button--header"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path pid="0" d="M7 16.81H4.5c-.55 0-1-.45-1-1v-7c0-.55.45-1 1-1h15c.55 0 1 .45 1 1v7c0 .55-.45 1-1 1H17" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linejoin="round"/><path pid="1" d="M7 7.81V3.5c0-.55.45-1 1-1h8c.55 0 1 .45 1 1v4.31" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linejoin="round"/><path pid="2" d="M17 14v6.5c0 .55-.45 1-1 1H8c-.55 0-1-.45-1-1V14h10z" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round"/><path pid="3" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" d="M14.34 18.95l-1.15.69-1.18-.7-1.18.7-1.17-.7m4.68-2.47l-1.15.69-1.18-.7-1.18.7-1.17-.7M5.3 9.5h1"/></svg> <span class="actionbar__label">Drucken</span></div></div> <div class="actionbar__item share" style="position:relative;"><div class="contextmenu-closed"><div class="actionbar__button actionbar__button--header"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path pid="0" d="M13.73 17.7c0 .58.34.73.75.34l6.71-6.44c.41-.4.41-1.04 0-1.44l-6.71-6.44c-.41-.4-.75-.24-.75.34v3.25c-6.2 0-11.23 3.59-11.23 9.98 0 1.12.15 2.19.44 3.22 1.35-4.83 5.67-6.04 10.8-6.04v3.24z" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round"/></svg> <span class="actionbar__label">Teilen</span></div></div> <!----> <div data-nzz-tid="contextmenu-overlay" class="overlay--container"><!----> <!----></div></div> <!----></div></div></div></div></div><figure id="id-doc-1i29538211" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image image--containerwidth" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/a4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg?width=1200&amp;height=800&amp;fit=crop&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:66.67%;"><img alt="Um illegalem Holzeinschlag entgegenzuwirken, will die Stiftung Conservation Carpathia mehr als 250 000 Hektaren Land schützen: Der Guide Nico Cosdan betrachtet die Waldkarpaten mit ihren Buchenurwäldern." data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="3720" height="2480" src="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/a4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg?width=750&amp;height=500&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3720,2480,x0,y0" loading="eager" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/a4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg?width=1120&amp;height=747&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3720,2480,x0,y0 1120w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/a4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg?width=2240&amp;height=1493&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3720,2480,x0,y0 2240w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/a4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg?width=976&amp;height=651&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3720,2480,x0,y0 976w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/a4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg?width=1952&amp;height=1301&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3720,2480,x0,y0 1952w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/a4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg?width=736&amp;height=491&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3720,2480,x0,y0 736w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/a4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg?width=1472&amp;height=981&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3720,2480,x0,y0 1472w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/a4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg?width=375&amp;height=250&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3720,2480,x0,y0 375w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/a4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg?width=750&amp;height=500&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3720,2480,x0,y0 750w" sizes="(min-width: 1200px) 1120px, (min-width: 1024px) 976px, (min-width: 768px) 736px" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);"> <!----> <!----></div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"><!----> <div class="image-description image-description--containerwidth"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption image-description__caption--large">Um illegalem Holzeinschlag entgegenzuwirken, will die Stiftung Conservation Carpathia mehr als 250&nbsp;000 Hektaren Land schützen: Der Guide Nico Cosdan betrachtet die Waldkarpaten mit ihren Buchenurwäldern.</h2> <!----></div></figcaption> <!----></figure><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojg0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text">Gulasch und Obstbrand. So startet man keine Weitwanderung. Aber so beginnt unser Abenteuer in den Karpaten, wo wir uns irgendwann auf eine unerwartete Schatzsuche begeben. Das Schicksal (und unsere Reiseplanung) wollten es wohl so, dass ausgerechnet am ersten Tag der Wanderung über das Fagaras-Gebirge ein Gulasch-Festival stattfindet.</p><div id="id-doc-0f493b8a" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="barrier" is-new-line-child="true"><div id="paywall_container" class="disabled-overlay"></div></div><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojh0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Schon in den frühen Morgenstunden wurden in Cobor die Feuer entfacht. Das Dorf schläft noch, die Sonne kämpft gegen den Hochnebel an, legt aber bereits einen gelben Schimmer auf Häuser, Höfe und Hunde.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nboji0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">In acht Kesseln schmoren Rindfleisch, Zwiebeln und Speck. Acht Teams wetteifern darum, wer bis zum Mittagessen das beste Gulasch in den südlichen Karpaten kocht.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nboji1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Einige verwenden Paprika, die sie extra aus dem benachbarten Ungarn über die Grenze nach Rumänien geschafft haben. Andere fügen Fenchel oder Schwarzbier hinzu. Wieder andere behaupten, sie kochten «das Original», aber mit Liebe und Leidenschaft, das würde reichen.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nboji2" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Und irgendwann, als die Suppen mit all den geheimen und weniger geheimen Zutaten in den Kesseln vor sich hin blubbern, machen die ersten Flaschen Palinka, der rumänische Obstbrand, die Runde. Ein gutes Gulasch braucht Zeit, und während wir warten, leeren sich die Flaschen.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojj0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Wir testen am Mittag ein paar Probierportionen Gulasch (und ein paar Gläser Palinka). Das Gulasch mit Fenchel schmeckt am besten. Die Jury rund um einen rumänischen Fernsehkoch dreht noch ihre Runde, als wir mit vollen Bäuchen und leichten Köpfen unsere Rucksäcke schultern und uns von Cobor verabschieden. Ein letzter Blick auf die mittelalterliche Kirchenburg, bei der allein der Glockenturm dem Verfall trotzt.</p><div id="id-doc-1i2bh7ihf0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="q-embed" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent q-embed widget--qembed nzzinteraction"><div></div></div><h2 data-team-subtitle="" id="id-doc-1ht9ngvc00" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="subtitle" is-new-line-child="true" class="subtitle articlecomponent nzzinteraction"><span>Land der Extreme</span></h2><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojj1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Ehe wir uns versehen, sind wir inmitten einer Landschaft, die uns an das Hügelland der Hobbits aus «Herr der Ringe» erinnert. Weit entfernt liegen die nächsten grösseren Orte Sibiu und Fagaras. Weil wir uns von asphaltierten Strassen fernhalten, begegnen wir mehr Pferdefuhrwerken als Autos. Wir sind in Transsilvanien, einem Land der endlosen Wiesen und Wälder, und denken an Graf Dracula und blutrünstige Legenden. Andere nennen das Gebiet Siebenbürgen und denken an deutsche Siedler, die im 12. und 13.&nbsp;Jahrhundert in dieser Gegend eine Heimat fanden.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojj2" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Es ist auf jeden Fall ein grosser Flecken Wildnis, und Rumänien ein Land der Extreme. Wenn es um wirtschaftliche Statistiken geht, liegt das Land EU-weit sehr oft an letzter Stelle. Wann immer aber Natur und Umwelt abgefragt werden, führt Rumänien die Ranglisten an. Die höchste Biodiversität, die höchste Population grosser europäischer Raubtiere. Die Karpaten überziehen das grösste Waldgebiet Europas. Zwei Drittel der verbliebenen Urwälder des Kontinents liegen in Rumänien.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojk0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Radu Micu hat sich tief hinuntergebeugt. Mit einer Hand fährt er die Konturen eines Abdrucks im feuchten Boden nach. «Ein Bär», sagt er. «Etwa drei Stunden her.» Kurze Pause, und dann: «Und hier noch eine Spur. Eine kleinere. Vermutlich eine Bärenmutter mit ihrem Jungen.»</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojk1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Micu steht auf, geht entschlossen weiter. Nur die Flasche mit dem Bärenspray trägt er nun nicht mehr in seinem Rucksack, sondern vorn an einer Schnalle seines Gürtels.</p><figure id="id-doc-1i1peps3s1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image image--containerwidth nzzinteraction" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/f2da1da2-14de-4cff-be91-3a7d5e54f015.jpeg?width=1200&amp;height=800&amp;fit=crop&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:66.67%;"><img alt="Der Stausee Pecineagu in den südlichen Karpaten Rumäniens ist Teil des Piatra-Craiului-Nationalparks. Seine Wälder beherbergen eine aussergewöhnliche Vielfalt an Raubtieren wie Wölfen, Braunbären und Luchsen." data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="3960" height="2640" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/f2da1da2-14de-4cff-be91-3a7d5e54f015.jpeg?width=1120&amp;height=747&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3960,2640,x0,y0 1120w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/f2da1da2-14de-4cff-be91-3a7d5e54f015.jpeg?width=2240&amp;height=1493&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3960,2640,x0,y0 2240w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/f2da1da2-14de-4cff-be91-3a7d5e54f015.jpeg?width=976&amp;height=651&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3960,2640,x0,y0 976w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/f2da1da2-14de-4cff-be91-3a7d5e54f015.jpeg?width=1952&amp;height=1301&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3960,2640,x0,y0 1952w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/f2da1da2-14de-4cff-be91-3a7d5e54f015.jpeg?width=736&amp;height=491&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3960,2640,x0,y0 736w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/f2da1da2-14de-4cff-be91-3a7d5e54f015.jpeg?width=1472&amp;height=981&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3960,2640,x0,y0 1472w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/f2da1da2-14de-4cff-be91-3a7d5e54f015.jpeg?width=375&amp;height=250&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3960,2640,x0,y0 375w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/f2da1da2-14de-4cff-be91-3a7d5e54f015.jpeg?width=750&amp;height=500&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3960,2640,x0,y0 750w" sizes="(min-width: 1200px) 1120px, (min-width: 1024px) 976px, (min-width: 768px) 736px" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);"> <!----> <!----></div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"><!----> <div class="image-description image-description--containerwidth"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption image-description__caption--large">Der Stausee Pecineagu in den südlichen Karpaten Rumäniens ist Teil des Piatra-Craiului-Nationalparks. Seine Wälder beherbergen eine aussergewöhnliche Vielfalt an Raubtieren wie Wölfen, Braunbären und Luchsen.</h2> <!----></div></figcaption> <!----></figure><h2 data-team-subtitle="" id="id-doc-1ht9o68t70" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="subtitle" is-new-line-child="true" class="subtitle articlecomponent nzzinteraction"><span>Umarmung eines Bären</span></h2><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojk2" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Zwei Guides begleiten uns auf dieser Wanderung. Radu Micu sieht aus wie ein Mann, der entweder Ski läuft, wandert oder surft, auf jeden Fall immer in Bewegung ist. Micu arbeitete dreizehn Jahre auf einem Kreuzfahrtschiff. Er hat die Welt gesehen, zumindest eine Hälfte: Hawaii, Kuba, Panama und den Ozean darum herum. Dann entschloss er sich, mit seiner Familie in die Heimat zurückzukehren. Weil es dort am schönsten ist. Micu kennt Wege über die rumänischen Berge, die sonst nur die Tiere und die Hirten mit ihren Schafen begehen.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojl0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Der zweite Begleiter heisst Nico Cosdan, er ist kleiner und drahtiger als Radu Micu, und er lacht viel öfter. Als Junge umarmte er einmal einen wilden jungen Bären (er wusste nicht, was er tat, und würde es nie wieder tun). Später zog er ein Rehkitz und ein Wildschwein-Frischling mit der Flasche auf. Nico Cosdan weiss alles über Spechte, Wacholder, Hagebutten und Gottesanbeterinnen.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojl1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Die beiden Männer sind zuverlässige Wegweiser im Urwald. Und sie kochen die karpatenweit beste «Mountain-Pasta» aus allem, was sie in ihren Rucksäcken über die Berge schleppen. (Behaupten sie!)</p><h2 data-team-subtitle="" id="id-doc-1ht9nvhag0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="subtitle" is-new-line-child="true" class="subtitle articlecomponent nzzinteraction"><span>Wo der Fuchs bei den Hühnern schläft</span></h2><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojl2" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">An einem Abend kochen die beiden nicht. Wir kehren im Dorf Sinca Noua in einem Gästehaus ein. Ein grosses Gebäude mit holzverkleideten Giebeln. Rundherum weiden Pferde oder stehen in Unterständen, die meisten von ihnen sind Shagya-Araber, Vollblüter. Ihre Vorfahren stammen aus der Österreichisch-Ungarischen Monarchie.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojl3" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Dieses Gehöft ist Gästehaus und Reitstall in einem. Auch ein bisschen Bauernhof – mit Schweinen, Kürbissen und Brombeeren. Eine Mitarbeiterin erzählt, sie habe nur ein paar Wochen zuvor eines Morgens einen Fuchs schlafend im Hühnerstall vorgefunden – und alle Tiere seien noch wohlauf. Eine wahre Geschichte. Sie hat ein Foto davon gemacht. So ein friedlicher Ort ist der Reiterhof in Sinca Noua.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojl4" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Im rechten Flügel des Hauses wohnen Barbara und Christoph Promberger. Ihnen gehört der Hof. Und von ihnen stammt die Idee zum neuen Wanderweg.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojl5" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Die Prombergers kamen Mitte der 1990er Jahre als Wolfsforscher in die Karpaten, untersuchten das Verhalten der Rudel, und als sie damit fertig waren, blieben sie in Rumänien.</p><figure id="id-doc-1i1per4km2" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image image--containerwidth nzzinteraction" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/0ef8a70a-3fcf-43a6-b3c4-b448863b6a44.jpeg?width=1200&amp;height=800&amp;fit=crop&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:66.68%;"><img alt="Barbara und Christoph Promberger kamen Mitte der 1990er Jahre als Wolfsforscher in die Karpaten. Sie gründeten 2009 die Stiftung Conservation Carpathia, um eine der urwüchsigsten Gegenden Europas zu schützen." data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="3577" height="2385" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/0ef8a70a-3fcf-43a6-b3c4-b448863b6a44.jpeg?width=1120&amp;height=747&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3577,2385,x0,y0 1120w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/0ef8a70a-3fcf-43a6-b3c4-b448863b6a44.jpeg?width=2240&amp;height=1493&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3577,2385,x0,y0 2240w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/0ef8a70a-3fcf-43a6-b3c4-b448863b6a44.jpeg?width=976&amp;height=651&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3577,2385,x0,y0 976w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/0ef8a70a-3fcf-43a6-b3c4-b448863b6a44.jpeg?width=1952&amp;height=1301&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3577,2385,x0,y0 1952w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/0ef8a70a-3fcf-43a6-b3c4-b448863b6a44.jpeg?width=736&amp;height=491&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3577,2385,x0,y0 736w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/0ef8a70a-3fcf-43a6-b3c4-b448863b6a44.jpeg?width=1472&amp;height=981&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3577,2385,x0,y0 1472w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/0ef8a70a-3fcf-43a6-b3c4-b448863b6a44.jpeg?width=375&amp;height=250&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3577,2385,x0,y0 375w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/0ef8a70a-3fcf-43a6-b3c4-b448863b6a44.jpeg?width=750&amp;height=500&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3577,2385,x0,y0 750w" sizes="(min-width: 1200px) 1120px, (min-width: 1024px) 976px, (min-width: 768px) 736px" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);"> <!----> <!----></div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"><!----> <div class="image-description image-description--containerwidth"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption image-description__caption--large">Barbara und Christoph Promberger kamen Mitte der 1990er Jahre als Wolfsforscher in die Karpaten. Sie gründeten 2009 die Stiftung Conservation Carpathia, um eine der urwüchsigsten Gegenden Europas zu schützen.</h2> <!----></div></figcaption> <!----></figure><h2 data-team-subtitle="" id="id-doc-1ht9o8gpf0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="subtitle" is-new-line-child="true" class="subtitle articlecomponent nzzinteraction"><span>Ambitioniertes Nationalparkprojekt</span></h2><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojm0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Im Jahr 2009 gründete das Paar die Stiftung Conservation Carpathia. Die Stiftung sammelt Spendengelder und kauft damit Wälder auf, um sie vor illegalem Holzeinschlag und Wilderei zu schützen. Bislang stehen mehr als 25&nbsp;000 Hektaren unter Schutz. Irgendwann einmal sollen es mehr als 250&nbsp;000 Hektaren sein – vom Tal des Olt-Flusses im Westen bis zur Gebirgskette Piatra Craiului im Osten.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojm1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">In Europa gibt es mehr als 300 Nationalparks, aber weltweit berühmt ist keiner davon. Das möchten die Prombergers ändern. Ihr Schutzgebiet soll einmal Europas grösster Nationalpark werden, von Ansehen und Schönheit vergleichbar mit dem Yellowstone Park in den USA oder dem Krüger-Nationalpark in Südafrika. Ein ehrgeiziges Projekt, eines der ambitioniertesten europäischen Naturschutzprojekte.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojm2" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Lange spielte Tourismus bei den Planungen der Stiftung keine grosse Rolle. Das ändert sich nun mehr und mehr. «Wir nehmen hochproduktive Wälder aus der Nutzung», sagt Barbara Promberger. Soll heissen: Die Bewohner der Karpaten können und sollen das Holz ihrer Wälder nicht mehr schlagen, kein Geld mehr damit verdienen. Und das heisst auch: Sie brauchen eine alternative Erwerbsquelle. «Der Tourismus ist nicht die einzige, aber eine logische Alternative», sagt die Stiftungsgründerin.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojm3" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Die Prombergers planen einen sanften Tourismus, vor allem am Rand des Schutzgebietes, mit ausschliesslich geführten Touren. «Natürlich bedeutet Naturschutz, dass der lokalen Bevölkerung Restriktionen auferlegt werden», sagt Barbara Promberger. «Mit dem Tourismus bekommen die Menschen etwas zurück.»</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojm4" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Der neu geplante Wanderweg verbindet Seminarhäuser der Stiftung, Wildbeobachtungshütten und lokale Gasthäuser miteinander. 120 Kilometer verteilen sich auf sieben Etappen.</p><h2 data-team-subtitle="" id="id-doc-1ht9od2ef0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="subtitle" is-new-line-child="true" class="subtitle articlecomponent nzzinteraction"><span>Wilde Tiere beobachten</span></h2><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojm5" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Die Wildnis ist in den Karpaten nie weit entfernt. Ein paar Stunden sind wir bergauf gewandert, umgeben von Ebereschen, Bergulmen, Ahornen und Eiben. Bäumen, die in diesen Bergen schon seit Jahrtausenden ungestört wachsen. Radu Micu erzählt vom Saft der Birken, streichelt zwei Jahre alte Fichten («so gross wie mein kleiner Finger») und versucht 35 verschiedene Minzsorten aus dem Gedächtnis aufzuzählen.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojn0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Da taucht auf einer Hochgebirgswiese ein hölzerner Bau auf, lange ist nur das begrünte Dach zu sehen. Unscheinbar schmiegt sich die Wildbeobachtungshütte Comisu an den Hang. Drinnen fühlen wir uns dennoch wie in einem gedeckten Aussichtsturm. Durch das Panoramafenster blicken wir weit ins menschenleere Land hinein, von hier oben betrachtet, sehen die Wälder aus wie ein farbenfroher Flickenteppich.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojn1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Radu Micu macht ein Feuer im Ofen, bereitet die Pasta zu, und wir sitzen still auf Hockern, starren durch die Scheiben auf die Landschaft, die langsam von bunt zu grau zu schwarz wird.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojn2" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Später lesen wir im Tagebuch der Hütte von zahlreichen Beobachtungen: «20.&nbsp;Mai, zwei Wildschweine geniessen den letzten Tagesschimmer.» «22.&nbsp;Mai, ein junger männlicher Bär wanderte genau vor die Hütte, stand auf seinen Hinterbeinen und verschwand wieder im Wald.» Noch ein Bär, ein wenig Rotwild, wieder ein Bär.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojn3" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Wir sehen zwei Eichelhäher – sonst nichts. Dennoch blicken wir immer noch nach draussen, als die Nudeln längst aufgegessen sind. Kerzenschein taucht das Innere der Hütte in warmes Licht. Es fühlt sich zunehmend so an, als beobachteten wir nicht nur die Natur, sondern würden ein Teil von ihr.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojn4" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Die rumänische Wildnis ist bedroht. In den vergangenen Jahrzehnten wurden die Wälder massiv abgeholzt. Jährlich verschwinden etwa 20 Millionen Kubikmeter Holz. Das ist mehr, als legal geschlagen wird. Der Kahlschlag frisst sich tiefer und tiefer hinein in den Urwald.</p><h2 data-team-subtitle="" id="id-doc-1ht9oj8nu0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="subtitle" is-new-line-child="true" class="subtitle articlecomponent nzzinteraction"><span>Sanfte Hügel und hochalpine Steilhänge</span></h2><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojn5" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Am Morgen glimmt noch Glut im Ofen (weil Nico Cosdan während der Nacht wiederholt Holz nachgelegt hat). Und wir sehen das erste Tier. Eine Maus zappelt in der Lebendfalle. Wir lassen sie draussen frei. Dort ist die Welt über Nacht eingefroren. Stockstarr liegt das Gras auf den Wiesen am Boden, der Frost hat es zu Boden gedrückt. Die Berggipfel entlang unserer Route verstecken sich in dicken, schweren Wolken.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojo0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Radu Micu schaut skeptisch in ihre Richtung. Es ist windig, beim Aufstieg wird der Sturm noch zulegen. Wir entscheiden uns trotzdem zum Weitergehen. Schon bald schleudert uns der Sturm Eiskristalle in die Gesichter. Wir sinken in Schneewehen, das Trinkwasser gefriert in den Flaschen, wir flüchten für eine kurze Atempause in eine Nothütte nahe dem Gipfel Berevoescu Mare.</p><figure id="id-doc-1i1peu80b1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image image--containerwidth nzzinteraction" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/b49c2956-59b7-49ce-975f-5445990cbedb.jpeg?width=1200&amp;height=800&amp;fit=crop&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:66.66%;"><img alt="Über Nacht brachte ein Kälteeinbruch Frost. Vor der Wildbeobachtungshütte Comisu liegt eine weite Lichtung, oft Schauplatz faszinierender Bärenbeobachtungen." data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="3704" height="2469" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/b49c2956-59b7-49ce-975f-5445990cbedb.jpeg?width=1120&amp;height=747&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3704,2469,x0,y0 1120w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/b49c2956-59b7-49ce-975f-5445990cbedb.jpeg?width=2240&amp;height=1493&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3704,2469,x0,y0 2240w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/b49c2956-59b7-49ce-975f-5445990cbedb.jpeg?width=976&amp;height=651&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3704,2469,x0,y0 976w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/b49c2956-59b7-49ce-975f-5445990cbedb.jpeg?width=1952&amp;height=1301&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3704,2469,x0,y0 1952w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/b49c2956-59b7-49ce-975f-5445990cbedb.jpeg?width=736&amp;height=491&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3704,2469,x0,y0 736w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/b49c2956-59b7-49ce-975f-5445990cbedb.jpeg?width=1472&amp;height=981&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3704,2469,x0,y0 1472w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/b49c2956-59b7-49ce-975f-5445990cbedb.jpeg?width=375&amp;height=250&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3704,2469,x0,y0 375w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/b49c2956-59b7-49ce-975f-5445990cbedb.jpeg?width=750&amp;height=500&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3704,2469,x0,y0 750w" sizes="(min-width: 1200px) 1120px, (min-width: 1024px) 976px, (min-width: 768px) 736px" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);"> <!----> <!----></div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"><!----> <div class="image-description image-description--containerwidth"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption image-description__caption--large">Über Nacht brachte ein Kälteeinbruch Frost. Vor der Wildbeobachtungshütte Comisu liegt eine weite Lichtung, oft Schauplatz faszinierender Bärenbeobachtungen.</h2> <!----></div></figcaption> <!----></figure><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojo1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Die Karpaten haben zwei Gesichter. Eines mit sanften Hügeln, dichten Wäldern und Dörfern, die Vergangenheit atmen. Einsamkeit, gepaart mit Geborgenheit. Das andere Gesicht zeigt hochalpine An- und Abstiege, raue und abweisende Steilhänge. Einsamkeit und Erschöpfung.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojo2" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">In einem grossen Bogen zieht sich die mächtige Gebirgskette durch Europa – von Österreich bis in den Osten Serbiens. Im rumänischen Teil stapfen wir einen über 2300 Meter hohen Grat entlang, äusserlich nun auch gefroren, aber innen drin voller Eifer und Begeisterung.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojo3" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Nico Cosdan breitet die Arme aus und brüllt gegen den Wind an. Weit und breit keine Menschen ausser uns.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9onub71" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Cosdan ist schon vor einiger Zeit aus seiner Stadtwohnung ausgezogen und hat sich einen Obstgarten und einen Bauwagen gekauft. Nach Jahren der Sinnsuche in Büros und Diskotheken weiss er, was er möchte: näher an die Natur heran. Pilze züchten und Beeren ernten. Vielleicht ist das auch etwas, was die Karpaten mit den Menschen machen. Sie behalten die Ehrfurcht vor der Natur. Oder entdecken sie wieder.</p><h2 data-team-subtitle="" id="id-doc-1ht9op6260" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="subtitle" is-new-line-child="true" class="subtitle articlecomponent nzzinteraction"><span>Die Tiere beobachten die Beobachter</span></h2><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojo4" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Als wir an einem anderen Tag langsam aus der Höhe absteigen, verwandelt sich die Landschaft. Zunächst verschwinden die Wolken, dann der Schnee. Irgendwann hängen nur noch dünne Eisplatten zwischen den Grashalmen. Und dann ist es plötzlich ein strahlend schöner Spätsommertag. Nur die unwirklich wirkenden weissen Gipfel in der Ferne erinnern daran, wo wir herkamen.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojp0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Während wir über die Wiesen wandern, erzählen Radu Micu und Nico Cosdan von den Tieren und Pflanzen der Karpaten. Braunbären gibt es dort selbstverständlich, auch Wölfe, Gemsen, Wildschweine, Luchse. Bisons werden gerade wieder angesiedelt. Hier haben die kleinen, aber vor allem die grossen Tiere Europas noch genug Platz zum Leben.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojp1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Ich fühle mich inzwischen so wenig als Besucherin, dass ich fest damit rechne, hinter der nächsten Hügelkuppe eine Bärenmutter zu treffen, ein paar Bergziegen vielleicht oder einen streunenden Wolf. Ich freue mich darauf. Allein: Sie tauchen nicht auf.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojp2" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Nico Cosdan dreht sich augenzwinkernd zu mir um. «Wir sehen die Tiere nicht. Aber sie sehen uns.» Bären, Luchse und Wölfe nehmen Menschen viel früher wahr als wir sie. Sie ziehen sich zurück, beobachten diejenigen, die eigentlich sie beobachten wollen. Wildnis bedeutet eben auch, dass die Verhältnisse auf den Kopf gestellt werden. Wir Wanderer sind zwar Teil der Natur, aber noch lange nicht Teil des wilden Lebens.</p><h2 data-team-subtitle="" id="id-doc-1ht9ouk9e0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="subtitle" is-new-line-child="true" class="subtitle articlecomponent nzzinteraction"><span>Am Scheideweg: Wildnis roden oder bewahren?</span></h2><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojp3" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Als wir von einer Anhöhe in ein weiteres Tal schauen, sehen wir plötzlich Spuren der Verwüstung am Hang. Von weitem sieht es aus, als habe jemand ein riesiges Stück aus einem grünen Teppich geschnitten. Es ist ein sogenannter Kahlschlag. Eine illegale Baumrodung, der Hang ist braun statt grün.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojp4" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Mehr als zehn Jahre alt ist dieser Kahlschlag. Radu Micu berichtet, über viele Monate seien jeden Tag fünfzig Lastwagen aus dem Wald gefahren, beladen mit Baumstämmen. Warum hat niemand etwas dagegen unternommen? Micu zuckt mit den Schultern. «Mafia. Es ist sehr einfach, dafür zu sorgen, dass bestimmte Stellen wegschauen. Man bezahlt sie.»</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojp5" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Auch dieser verwundete Teil der Karpaten gehört inzwischen der Stiftung Conservation Carpathia. Die hat mittlerweile 142 Hektaren gerodetes Land wieder aufgeforstet. Zunächst werden die tiefen Furchen, die die Fahrzeuge in den Boden gerissen haben, mit Erde und Kies aufgefüllt und befestigt, damit neue Pflanzen Halt finden können. Dann setzen Saisonarbeiter Ulmen, Bergahorne, Ebereschen und Eiben in den Boden. Es sind schmale, schwindsüchtige Setzlinge, die Jahrzehnte um ihr Überleben kämpfen werden. Die Wunden des Waldes heilen langsam.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojq0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Barbara Promberger hat bei unserem Besuch auf dem Pferdehof gesagt, dass es für Rumänien noch nicht zu spät sei. Noch sei genügend unberührter Urwald vorhanden. Andere Länder in Europa hätten ihre Wildnis vor langer Zeit verloren. Rumänien könne sich noch entscheiden, ob es wild bleiben möchte. «Das Land kann die grüne Lunge Europas sein. Es ist ein grüner Schatz.»</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojq1" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Fast alle Menschen (und das sind nicht viele), die wir auf dieser Wanderung treffen, sprechen von der Natur der Karpaten wie von einem legendären Schatz. Wie von einer Rarität, einer Kostbarkeit, die bislang nur von wenigen entdeckt wurde.</p><figure id="id-doc-1i1pnjj4f2" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="image" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent image image--containerwidth nzzinteraction" style="position:relative;"><div data-nzz-tid="image-placeholder" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/ImageObject" itemid="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/c61e4398-3a66-46b2-a4d5-067093ccc908.jpeg?width=1200&amp;height=800&amp;fit=crop&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp" class="image-placeholder image__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:66.67%;"><img alt="Blick auf ein Tal auf dem Weg nach Nucsoara im Herzen der rumänischen Karpaten." data-nzz-tid="article-image" width="3774" height="2516" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/c61e4398-3a66-46b2-a4d5-067093ccc908.jpeg?width=1120&amp;height=747&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3774,2516,x0,y0 1120w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/c61e4398-3a66-46b2-a4d5-067093ccc908.jpeg?width=2240&amp;height=1493&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3774,2516,x0,y0 2240w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/c61e4398-3a66-46b2-a4d5-067093ccc908.jpeg?width=976&amp;height=651&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3774,2516,x0,y0 976w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/c61e4398-3a66-46b2-a4d5-067093ccc908.jpeg?width=1952&amp;height=1301&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3774,2516,x0,y0 1952w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/c61e4398-3a66-46b2-a4d5-067093ccc908.jpeg?width=736&amp;height=491&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3774,2516,x0,y0 736w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/c61e4398-3a66-46b2-a4d5-067093ccc908.jpeg?width=1472&amp;height=981&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3774,2516,x0,y0 1472w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/c61e4398-3a66-46b2-a4d5-067093ccc908.jpeg?width=375&amp;height=250&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3774,2516,x0,y0 375w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/07/08/c61e4398-3a66-46b2-a4d5-067093ccc908.jpeg?width=750&amp;height=500&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=3774,2516,x0,y0 750w" sizes="(min-width: 1200px) 1120px, (min-width: 1024px) 976px, (min-width: 768px) 736px" class="image-placeholder__image" style="cursor:pointer;transform:scale(1);"> <!----> <!----></div> <figcaption class="articlecomponent__description"><!----> <div class="image-description image-description--containerwidth"><h2 data-nzz-tid="image-description-caption" data-team-image-caption="true" class="image-description__caption image-description__caption--large">Blick auf ein Tal auf dem Weg nach Nucsoara im Herzen der rumänischen Karpaten.</h2> <!----></div></figcaption> <!----></figure><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojq2" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Die Stiftungsgründerin Promberger berichtete von uralten Buchen in dem Dorf Nucsoara und verglich sie mit «Juwelen». Ein Koch beim Gulasch-Festival blickte von seinem Kessel auf in Richtung der Hügel Siebenbürgens und sagte versonnen: «Sie leuchten golden.» Und der Wander-Guide Nico Cosdan sah in jedem durchsichtig scheinenden Pilz am Wegrand ein «Schmuckstück». In all den Worten funkelte und glitzerte die Freude über die Überfülle der Natur.</p><p data-team-paragraph="" id="id-doc-1ht9nbojq3" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="p" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent text nzzinteraction">Am letzten Tag unserer Wanderung gehen wir durch ein Tal. Die Oberschenkel schmerzen von den Aufstiegen, noch stärker allerdings von den Abstiegen. Der Bach neben uns läuft viel schneller als wir. Felsen versperren den Blick in den Himmel. Nico Cosdan sagt: «Wusstet ihr, dass Eichhörnchen in Astgabeln Pilze zum Trocknen ablegen? Kleine, clevere Kerlchen.» Nun blicken wir genauer in alle Astgabeln. Vielleicht entdecken wir ihn ja auf unserer unerwarteten Suche. Den kleinen Schatz eines Eichhörnchens.</p><p data-team-footnote="" id="id-doc-1i2bg5kru0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="footnote" data-vars-danzz-last-article-element="true" is-new-line-child="true" class="articlecomponent footnote nzzinteraction">Karten und weiterführende Informationen: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.travelcarpathia.com">www.travelcarpathia.com</a></p><div id="id-doc-1hi4b7pnj2" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="sharebox" is-new-line-child="true" class="nzzinteraction"><div class="sharebox"><div class="sharebox__line"></div> <ul class="sharebox__content"><li class="sharebox__item sharebox__item--bookmark"><!----></li> <li class="sharebox__item sharebox__item--print"><a href="" aria-current="page" title="Drucken" class="sharebox__link nuxt-link-exact-active nuxt-link-active"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="sharebox__icon sharebox__icon--print svg-print nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path pid="0" d="M7 16.81H4.5c-.55 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7.34z"/></svg></a></li></ul> <div class="sharebox__line"></div></div> <!----></div><section data-grws-bta="default" id="id-doc-1hi4b7pnk0" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="moreToSubject" is-new-line-child="true" class="pageelement pageelement--moretosubject nzzinteraction"><div class="pageelement__inner"><div class="container container--moretosubject"><div class="container__header-title container__header-title--moretosubject container__header-title--bta-moretosubject"><span class="container__header-text container__header-text--moretosubject">Passend zum Artikel</span></div></div> <div class="widget__row widget__row--noBorder widget__row--bta-moretosubject"><div data-team-more-to-subject class="widget--articlelist-a"><article data-source-element-widget="" class="teaser--article teaser--articlelist-a "><div id="id-ld_1748354" data-nzz-tid="teaser" data-nzz-ct="" class="teaser teaser__layout--longformstandard teaser--size-articlelist-a"><!----> <!----> <!----> <!----> <div flag-item="[object Object]" flag-size="articlelist-a" class="poster poster--articlelist-a poster--articlelist-a-longformstandard"><figure class="poster__figure poster__figure--image"><a href="/reisen/reisen-runterkommen-beim-raufgehen-ld.1748354" data-nzz-referrer="articleTeaser" class="teaser__link teaser__link--poster teaser__link--poster-articlelist-a"><div class="image-placeholder poster__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:100%;"><img alt="Die acht Tageswanderungen des Nockberge-Trails führen auf den Falkert und auf weitere Kuppen mit prächtigen Weitsichten. 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Falsch – auch von den meisten Schweizer Städten aus lassen sich wunderbare Fussmärsche unternehmen. Hin kommt man bequem und unkompliziert, unter anderem mit der Bahn. Ideal also, um nach dem Lockdown wieder langsam in die Gänge zu kommen.</div> <!----></div> <!----> <!----></a> <div bookmark-type="article" bookmark-sub-type="teaser" class="metainfo metainfo--articlelist-a metainfo--longformvisual"><div class="metainfo__main metainfo__main--longformvisual"><!----> <div class="metainfo__wrapper"><!----> <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">Andreas Staeger (Text), Corinna Staffe (Illustration), Kaspar Manz (Karten)</span> <time class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date">23.05.2020</time> <!----> <!----> <!----></div> <!----></div> <div class="metainfo__actions metainfo__actions--longformvisual "><!----> <!----> <!----></div></div> <!----></div></div> <!----></article></div></div></div></section><section data-grws-bta="default" id="id-doc-1i2h5ugh40" content="" pagetype="Article" componenttype="moreToSubject" data-vars-danzz-last-article-element="true" is-new-line-child="true" class="pageelement pageelement--moretosubject nzzinteraction"><div class="pageelement__inner"><div class="container container--moretosubject"><div class="container__header-title container__header-title--moretosubject container__header-title--bta-moretosubject"><span class="container__header-text container__header-text--moretosubject">Passend zum Artikel</span></div></div> <div class="widget__row widget__row--noBorder widget__row--bta-moretosubject"><div data-team-more-to-subject class="widget--articlelist-a"><article data-source-element-widget="" class="teaser--article teaser--articlelist-a "><div id="id-ld_1748354" data-nzz-tid="teaser" data-nzz-ct="" class="teaser teaser__layout--longformstandard teaser--size-articlelist-a"><!----> <!----> <!----> <!----> <div flag-item="[object Object]" flag-size="articlelist-a" class="poster poster--articlelist-a poster--articlelist-a-longformstandard"><figure class="poster__figure poster__figure--image"><a href="/reisen/reisen-runterkommen-beim-raufgehen-ld.1748354" data-nzz-referrer="articleTeaser" class="teaser__link teaser__link--poster teaser__link--poster-articlelist-a"><div class="image-placeholder poster__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:100%;"><img alt="Die acht Tageswanderungen des Nockberge-Trails führen auf den Falkert und auf weitere Kuppen mit prächtigen Weitsichten. 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Dazu baute eine Zürcher Primarlehrerin einen ausgedienten Quartierbus um. Was sie fand, war eine langsamere Welt, in der das Internet eine entscheidende Rolle spielt.</div> <!----></div> <!----> <!----></a> <div bookmark-type="article" bookmark-sub-type="teaser" class="metainfo metainfo--articlelist-a metainfo--longformstandard"><div class="metainfo__main metainfo__main--longformstandard"><!----> <div class="metainfo__wrapper"><!----> <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">Muriel Gnehm</span> <time class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date">12.07.2024</time> <!----> <span data-tooltip="Lesezeit 8 min" class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--reading-time"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="reading-time__icon nzz-icons--small nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="0" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round" d="M11.77 7.39v5.62l3.8 1.32"/><circle stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="1" cx="12" cy="12" r="8.5" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round"/></svg> <span>8 min</span></span> <!----></div> <!----></div> <div class="metainfo__actions metainfo__actions--longformstandard "><!----> <!----> <!----></div></div> <!----></div></div> <!----></article></div></div></div></section></section> <div class="cve articlepromobox"></div> <div componenttype="bta" class="container container--bta adnz-bta-fixed-placeholder"><!----> <!----> <!----> <div data-bta-tags="true" data-test-variant="more-and-newest-standard"><section data-nzz-container="" data-source-element="Container-BTA-same-topic" class="pageelement bta pageelement--moretosubject"><div class="container--headline-bta"><h3 class="container__header-title--bta container__header-title--bta--hide-mobile"> Mehr zum Thema Rumänien </h3> <a href="/themen/rumanien" data-nzz-referrer="btaLinkTopic" class="bta-link"><h3 class="container__header-title--bta container__header-title--bta--show-mobile"> Mehr zum Thema Rumänien </h3> <span class="container__header-title--bta--hide-mobile"> Alle Artikel zum Thema </span> <svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="little-chevron nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill nzz-icons--right nzz-icons--small"><path pid="0" d="M6 15l6-6 6 6" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round"/></svg></a></div> <div class="widget__row widget__row--bta-newest"><div data-source-element-widget="Rumänien" class="widget--1of2 widget--article"><article data-source-element-widget="Rumänien" class="teaser--article teaser--1of2 "><div id="id-ld_1858428" data-nzz-tid="teaser" data-nzz-ct="" class="teaser teaser__layout--regular teaser--size-1of2"><!----> <!----> <!----> <!----> <div flag-item="[object Object]" flag-size="1of2" class="poster poster--1of2 poster--1of2-regular"><figure class="poster__figure poster__figure--image"><a href="/international/vergnuegungsreise-nach-monaco-affaere-im-wahlkampf-in-rumaenien-ld.1858428" data-nzz-referrer="btaArticleTeaser" class="teaser__link teaser__link--poster teaser__link--poster-1of2"><div class="image-placeholder poster__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:56.25%;"><img alt="Rumäniens sozialdemokratischer Regierungschef Marcel Ciolacu ist der aussichtsreichste Kandidat im Rennen um das Amt des Staatspräsidenten. (Octav Ganea / Inquam / Reuters)" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/11/20/d37189f0-e3ec-4fc4-9fc5-7296f46917c9.jpeg?width=520&amp;height=292&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4944,2777,x0,y515 520w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/11/20/d37189f0-e3ec-4fc4-9fc5-7296f46917c9.jpeg?width=1040&amp;height=584&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4944,2777,x0,y515 1040w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/11/20/d37189f0-e3ec-4fc4-9fc5-7296f46917c9.jpeg?width=464&amp;height=261&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4944,2781,x0,y515 464w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/11/20/d37189f0-e3ec-4fc4-9fc5-7296f46917c9.jpeg?width=928&amp;height=522&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4944,2781,x0,y515 928w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/11/20/d37189f0-e3ec-4fc4-9fc5-7296f46917c9.jpeg?width=352&amp;height=198&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4944,2781,x0,y515 352w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/11/20/d37189f0-e3ec-4fc4-9fc5-7296f46917c9.jpeg?width=704&amp;height=396&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4944,2781,x0,y515 704w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/11/20/d37189f0-e3ec-4fc4-9fc5-7296f46917c9.jpeg?width=380&amp;height=214&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4944,2781,x0,y515 380w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/11/20/d37189f0-e3ec-4fc4-9fc5-7296f46917c9.jpeg?width=760&amp;height=427&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4944,2781,x0,y515 760w" width="4944" height="2781" class="image-placeholder__image poster__image"> <!----> <!----> <!----> <!----></div></a></figure></div> <!----> <div class="teaser__content teaser__content--1of2"><a href="/international/vergnuegungsreise-nach-monaco-affaere-im-wahlkampf-in-rumaenien-ld.1858428" data-nzz-referrer="btaArticleTeaser" ordinal-number="1" class="teaser__link"><div class="teaser__wrapper"><!----> <!----> <!----> <h2 class="teaser__title teaser__title--1of2 teaser__title--regular teaser__title--0"><!----> <!----> <span class="teaser__title-name">Vergnügungsreise nach Monaco: Eine Affäre mischt den Wahlkampf in Rumänien auf</span></h2> <!----> <div class="teaser__lead teaser__lead--1of2 teaser__lead--regular">Die Bekämpfung der Korruption ist eine der grossen Herausforderungen für Rumänien. Der Skandal um den aussichtsreichsten Kandidaten für das Präsidentenamt zeigt das deutlich.</div> <!----></div> <!----> <!----></a> <div bookmark-type="article" bookmark-sub-type="teaser" class="metainfo metainfo--1of2 metainfo--regular"><div class="metainfo__main metainfo__main--regular"><!----> <div class="metainfo__wrapper"><!----> <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">Volker Pabst, Bukarest</span> <time class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date">21.11.2024</time> <!----> <span data-tooltip="Lesezeit 3 min" class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--reading-time"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="reading-time__icon nzz-icons--small nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="0" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round" d="M11.77 7.39v5.62l3.8 1.32"/><circle stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="1" cx="12" cy="12" r="8.5" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round"/></svg> <span>3 min</span></span> <!----></div> <!----></div> <div class="metainfo__actions metainfo__actions--regular "><!----> <!----> <!----></div></div> <!----></div></div> <!----></article></div> <div data-source-element-widget="Rumänien" class="widget--1of2 widget--article"><article data-source-element-widget="Rumänien" class="teaser--article teaser--paginated "><div id="id-ld_1851949" data-nzz-tid="teaser" data-nzz-ct="" class="teaser teaser__layout--regular teaser--size-paginated"><!----> <!----> <!----> <!----> <div flag-item="[object Object]" flag-size="paginated" class="poster poster--paginated poster--paginated-regular"><figure class="poster__figure poster__figure--image"><a href="/international/kontroverses-urteil-in-rumaenien-machtmissbrauch-oder-schutz-der-demokratie-ld.1851949" data-nzz-referrer="btaArticleTeaser" class="teaser__link teaser__link--poster teaser__link--poster-paginated"><div class="image-placeholder poster__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:56.25%;"><img alt="Die rumänische Europaabgeordnete Diana Sosoaca hat das Parlament unter anderem als Haus Satans bezeichnet und eine Säuberung durch einen Priester gefordert. (Johanna Geron / Reuters)" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/10/10/c91e44f3-b0c0-4b6a-97d8-6bb815eb3a25.jpeg?width=240&amp;height=135&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4243,2387,x0,y442 240w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/10/10/c91e44f3-b0c0-4b6a-97d8-6bb815eb3a25.jpeg?width=480&amp;height=270&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4243,2387,x0,y442 480w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/10/10/c91e44f3-b0c0-4b6a-97d8-6bb815eb3a25.jpeg?width=200&amp;height=113&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4225,2387,x0,y442 200w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/10/10/c91e44f3-b0c0-4b6a-97d8-6bb815eb3a25.jpeg?width=400&amp;height=226&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4225,2387,x0,y442 400w" width="4243" height="2387" class="image-placeholder__image poster__image"> <!----> <!----> <!----> <!----></div></a></figure></div> <!----> <div class="teaser__content teaser__content--paginated"><a href="/international/kontroverses-urteil-in-rumaenien-machtmissbrauch-oder-schutz-der-demokratie-ld.1851949" data-nzz-referrer="btaArticleTeaser" ordinal-number="1" class="teaser__link"><div class="teaser__wrapper"><!----> <!----> <!----> <h2 class="teaser__title teaser__title--paginated teaser__title--regular teaser__title--0"><!----> <!----> <span class="teaser__title-name">Rumänische Richter werfen eine Präsidentschaftskandidatin aus dem Rennen – ist das Machtmissbrauch?</span></h2> <!----> <div class="teaser__lead teaser__lead--paginated teaser__lead--regular">Das Verfassungsgericht schliesst die rechtsradikale Politikerin Diana Sosoaca aus. Das Urteil sorgt für breite Kritik und wirft Fragen auf, die auch über Rumänien hinaus von Belang sind.</div> <!----></div> <!----> <!----></a> <div bookmark-type="article" bookmark-sub-type="teaser" class="metainfo metainfo--paginated metainfo--regular"><div class="metainfo__main metainfo__main--regular"><!----> <div class="metainfo__wrapper"><!----> <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">Volker Pabst</span> <time class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date">11.10.2024</time> <!----> <span data-tooltip="Lesezeit 4 min" class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--reading-time"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="reading-time__icon nzz-icons--small nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="0" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round" d="M11.77 7.39v5.62l3.8 1.32"/><circle stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="1" cx="12" cy="12" r="8.5" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round"/></svg> <span>4 min</span></span> <!----></div> <!----></div> <div class="metainfo__actions metainfo__actions--regular "><!----> <!----> <!----></div></div> <!----></div></div> <!----></article><article data-source-element-widget="Rumänien" class="teaser--article teaser--paginated "><div id="id-ld_1848361" data-nzz-tid="teaser" data-nzz-ct="" class="teaser teaser__layout--regular teaser--size-paginated"><!----> <!----> <!----> <!----> <div flag-item="[object Object]" flag-size="paginated" class="poster poster--paginated poster--paginated-regular"><figure class="poster__figure poster__figure--image"><a href="/panorama/hochwasser-und-unwetter-in-mitteleuropa-elbe-erreicht-sechs-meter-marke-in-dresden-es-gilt-alarmstufe-3-ld.1848361" data-nzz-referrer="btaArticleTeaser" class="teaser__link teaser__link--poster teaser__link--poster-paginated"><div class="image-placeholder poster__placeholder" style="padding-bottom:56.25%;"><img alt="Ein Boot des Bevölkerungsschutzes beobachtet die Lage in Frankfurt an der Oder. (Sabine Gudath / Imago)" src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==" loading="lazy" srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2024/09/25/df35c62e-9b34-4754-b39f-ac2d0ff331cc.jpeg?width=240&amp;height=135&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=8064,4536,x0,y602 240w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/09/25/df35c62e-9b34-4754-b39f-ac2d0ff331cc.jpeg?width=480&amp;height=270&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=8064,4536,x0,y602 480w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/09/25/df35c62e-9b34-4754-b39f-ac2d0ff331cc.jpeg?width=200&amp;height=113&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=8029,4536,x0,y602 200w, https://img.nzz.ch/2024/09/25/df35c62e-9b34-4754-b39f-ac2d0ff331cc.jpeg?width=400&amp;height=226&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=8029,4536,x0,y602 400w" width="8064" height="4536" class="image-placeholder__image poster__image"> <!----> <!----> <!----> <!----></div></a></figure></div> <!----> <div class="teaser__content teaser__content--paginated"><a href="/panorama/hochwasser-und-unwetter-in-mitteleuropa-elbe-erreicht-sechs-meter-marke-in-dresden-es-gilt-alarmstufe-3-ld.1848361" data-nzz-referrer="btaArticleTeaser" ordinal-number="1" class="teaser__link"><div class="teaser__wrapper"><!----> <!----> <div class="teaser__flag teaser__flag--colored teaser__flag--live teaser__flag--paginated teaser__flag--paginated-regular"><span class="teaser__flag--text"> Live </span> <!----> <!----> <!----></div> <h2 class="teaser__title teaser__title--paginated teaser__title--regular teaser__title--0"><!----> <!----> <span class="teaser__title-name">Hochwasser und Unwetter in Europa: Wasserstand an der Oder in Deutschland geht weiter zurück</span></h2> <!----> <div class="teaser__lead teaser__lead--paginated teaser__lead--regular">Die wichtigsten Neuigkeiten zur Hochwasser- und Unwetterlage in Mitteleuropa im Überblick.</div> <!----></div> <!----> <!----></a> <div bookmark-type="article" bookmark-sub-type="teaser" class="metainfo metainfo--paginated metainfo--regular"><div class="metainfo__main metainfo__main--regular"><!----> <div class="metainfo__wrapper"><!----> <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">NZZ-Redaktion</span> <time class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date">27.09.2024</time> <!----> <span data-tooltip="Lesezeit 26 min" class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--reading-time"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="reading-time__icon nzz-icons--small nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="0" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round" d="M11.77 7.39v5.62l3.8 1.32"/><circle stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="1" cx="12" cy="12" r="8.5" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round"/></svg> <span>26 min</span></span> <!----></div> <!----></div> <div class="metainfo__actions metainfo__actions--regular "><!----> <!----> <!----></div></div> <!----></div></div> <!----></article></div></div> <div class="widget__row widget__row--bta-newest"><div data-source-element-widget="Rumänien" class="widget--1of3 widget--article"><article data-source-element-widget="Rumänien" class="teaser--article teaser--companion-feed-bta "><div id="id-ld_1847930" data-nzz-tid="teaser" data-nzz-ct="" class="teaser teaser__layout--regular teaser--size-companion-feed-bta"><!----> <!----> <!----> <!----> <div flag-item="[object Object]" flag-size="companion-feed-bta" class="poster poster--companion-feed-bta poster--companion-feed-bta-regular"><figure class="poster__figure poster__figure--image"><a href="/international/abschiessen-oder-nicht-die-debatte-ueber-russische-luftraumverletzungen-in-rumaenien-betrifft-die-ganze-nato-ld.1847930" data-nzz-referrer="btaArticleTeaser" class="teaser__link teaser__link--poster teaser__link--poster-companion-feed-bta"><div class="image-placeholder poster__placeholder"><picture data-alt="Rumänische F-16 Kampfjets kontrollieren den Nato-Luftraum. Sollen sie russische Drohnen künftig abschiessen? (Andreea Alexandru / AP)" class="image-placeholder__image poster__image" style="display:block;min-height:1rem;"><source srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2023/12/06/33d4758d-a810-485c-8b38-bb055ee68c15.jpeg?width=72&amp;height=72&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=2557,2557,x1778,y770 72w,https://img.nzz.ch/2023/12/06/33d4758d-a810-485c-8b38-bb055ee68c15.jpeg?width=144&amp;height=144&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=2557,2557,x1778,y770 144w,https://img.nzz.ch/2023/12/06/33d4758d-a810-485c-8b38-bb055ee68c15.jpeg?width=380&amp;height=380&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=2557,2557,x1778,y770 380w,https://img.nzz.ch/2023/12/06/33d4758d-a810-485c-8b38-bb055ee68c15.jpeg?width=760&amp;height=760&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=2557,2557,x1778,y770 760w" media="(max-width:767px)"><source srcset="https://img.nzz.ch/2023/12/06/33d4758d-a810-485c-8b38-bb055ee68c15.jpeg?width=200&amp;height=112&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4314,2427,x945,y926 200w,https://img.nzz.ch/2023/12/06/33d4758d-a810-485c-8b38-bb055ee68c15.jpeg?width=400&amp;height=225&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4314,2427,x945,y926 400w,https://img.nzz.ch/2023/12/06/33d4758d-a810-485c-8b38-bb055ee68c15.jpeg?width=280&amp;height=157&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4314,2427,x945,y926 280w,https://img.nzz.ch/2023/12/06/33d4758d-a810-485c-8b38-bb055ee68c15.jpeg?width=560&amp;height=315&amp;fit=bounds&amp;quality=75&amp;auto=webp&amp;crop=4314,2427,x945,y926 560w" media="(min-width:768px)"></picture> <!----> <!----> <!----> <!----></div></a></figure></div> <!----> <div class="teaser__content teaser__content--companion-feed-bta"><a href="/international/abschiessen-oder-nicht-die-debatte-ueber-russische-luftraumverletzungen-in-rumaenien-betrifft-die-ganze-nato-ld.1847930" data-nzz-referrer="btaArticleTeaser" ordinal-number="1" class="teaser__link"><div class="teaser__wrapper"><!----> <!----> <!----> <h2 class="teaser__title teaser__title--companion-feed-bta teaser__title--regular teaser__title--0"><!----> <!----> <span class="teaser__title-name">Abschiessen oder nicht? Die Debatte über russische Luftraumverletzungen in Rumänien betrifft die ganze Nato</span></h2> <!----> <div class="teaser__lead teaser__lead--companion-feed-bta teaser__lead--regular">Am Wochenende sind erneut russische Drohnen in den Luftraum von Nato-Staaten eingedrungen. Rumänien hat für den Abschuss der Fluggeräte hohe rechtliche Hürden. Die Forderungen werden lauter, diese zu senken.</div> <!----></div> <!----> <!----></a> <div bookmark-type="article" bookmark-sub-type="teaser" class="metainfo metainfo--companion-feed-bta metainfo--regular"><div class="metainfo__main metainfo__main--regular"><!----> <div class="metainfo__wrapper"><!----> <span class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--author">Volker Pabst</span> <time class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--date">12.09.2024</time> <!----> <span data-tooltip="Lesezeit 3 min" class="metainfo__item metainfo__item--reading-time"><svg version="1.1" viewBox="0 0 24 24" class="reading-time__icon nzz-icons--small nzz-icons--icon nzz-icons--fill"><path stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="0" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round" d="M11.77 7.39v5.62l3.8 1.32"/><circle stroke="currentColor" fill="none" pid="1" cx="12" cy="12" r="8.5" fill="none" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" _stroke-linejoin="round"/></svg> <span>3 min</span></span> <!----></div> <!----></div> <div class="metainfo__actions metainfo__actions--regular "><!----> <!----> <!----></div></div> <!----></div></div> <!----></article></div><div data-source-element-widget="Rumänien" class="widget--1of3 widget--article"><article data-source-element-widget="Rumänien" class="teaser--article teaser--companion-feed-bta "><div id="id-ld_1842393" data-nzz-tid="teaser" data-nzz-ct="" class="teaser teaser__layout--longformstandard teaser--size-companion-feed-bta"><!----> <!----> <!----> <!----> <div flag-item="[object Object]" flag-size="companion-feed-bta" class="poster poster--companion-feed-bta poster--companion-feed-bta-longformstandard"><figure class="poster__figure poster__figure--image"><a href="/zuerich/buntmetall-diebstahl-wie-rumaenische-banden-schweizer-firmen-pluendern-ld.1842393" data-nzz-referrer="btaArticleTeaser" class="teaser__link teaser__link--poster teaser__link--poster-companion-feed-bta"><div class="image-placeholder poster__placeholder"><picture data-alt="Das Metall der Begierde für Kriminelle: Kupfer. 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So startet man keine Weitwanderung. Aber so beginnt unser Abenteuer in den Karpaten, wo wir uns irgendwann auf eine unerwartete Schatzsuche begeben. Das Schicksal (und unsere Reiseplanung) wollten es wohl so, dass ausgerechnet am ersten Tag der Wanderung über das Fagaras-Gebirge ein Gulasch-Festival stattfindet."},data:{},prevElement:O,nextElement:dQ},{id:"doc-0f493b8a",identifier:dQ,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojh0",content:{text:"Schon in den frühen Morgenstunden wurden in Cobor die Feuer entfacht. Das Dorf schläft noch, die Sonne kämpft gegen den Hochnebel an, legt aber bereits einen gelben Schimmer auf Häuser, Höfe und Hunde."},data:{},paidContent:c,prevElement:dQ,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nboji0",content:{text:"In acht Kesseln schmoren Rindfleisch, Zwiebeln und Speck. Acht Teams wetteifern darum, wer bis zum Mittagessen das beste Gulasch in den südlichen Karpaten kocht."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nboji1",content:{text:"Einige verwenden Paprika, die sie extra aus dem benachbarten Ungarn über die Grenze nach Rumänien geschafft haben. Andere fügen Fenchel oder Schwarzbier hinzu. Wieder andere behaupten, sie kochten «das Original», aber mit Liebe und Leidenschaft, das würde reichen."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nboji2",content:{text:"Und irgendwann, als die Suppen mit all den geheimen und weniger geheimen Zutaten in den Kesseln vor sich hin blubbern, machen die ersten Flaschen Palinka, der rumänische Obstbrand, die Runde. Ein gutes Gulasch braucht Zeit, und während wir warten, leeren sich die Flaschen."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojj0",content:{text:"Wir testen am Mittag ein paar Probierportionen Gulasch (und ein paar Gläser Palinka). Das Gulasch mit Fenchel schmeckt am besten. Die Jury rund um einen rumänischen Fernsehkoch dreht noch ihre Runde, als wir mit vollen Bäuchen und leichten Köpfen unsere Rucksäcke schultern und uns von Cobor verabschieden. 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Weit entfernt liegen die nächsten grösseren Orte Sibiu und Fagaras. Weil wir uns von asphaltierten Strassen fernhalten, begegnen wir mehr Pferdefuhrwerken als Autos. Wir sind in Transsilvanien, einem Land der endlosen Wiesen und Wälder, und denken an Graf Dracula und blutrünstige Legenden. Andere nennen das Gebiet Siebenbürgen und denken an deutsche Siedler, die im 12. und 13.&nbsp;Jahrhundert in dieser Gegend eine Heimat fanden."},data:{},paidContent:c,prevElement:v,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojj2",content:{text:"Es ist auf jeden Fall ein grosser Flecken Wildnis, und Rumänien ein Land der Extreme. Wenn es um wirtschaftliche Statistiken geht, liegt das Land EU-weit sehr oft an letzter Stelle. Wann immer aber Natur und Umwelt abgefragt werden, führt Rumänien die Ranglisten an. Die höchste Biodiversität, die höchste Population grosser europäischer Raubtiere. Die Karpaten überziehen das grösste Waldgebiet Europas. Zwei Drittel der verbliebenen Urwälder des Kontinents liegen in Rumänien."},data:{},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojk0",content:{text:"Radu Micu hat sich tief hinuntergebeugt. Mit einer Hand fährt er die Konturen eines Abdrucks im feuchten Boden nach. «Ein Bär», sagt er. «Etwa drei Stunden her.» Kurze Pause, und dann: «Und hier noch eine Spur. Eine kleinere. Vermutlich eine Bärenmutter mit ihrem Jungen.»"},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojk1",content:{text:"Micu steht auf, geht entschlossen weiter. Nur die Flasche mit dem Bärenspray trägt er nun nicht mehr in seinem Rucksack, sondern vorn an einer Schnalle seines Gürtels."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:O},{component:bm,identifier:O,id:"doc-1i1peps3s1",content:{image:{originalUrl:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002Ff2da1da2-14de-4cff-be91-3a7d5e54f015.jpeg",url:fq,mediaId:"YOZ2cToOYtKk",key:"2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002Ff2da1da2-14de-4cff-be91-3a7d5e54f015.jpeg",width:3960,height:2640,mimeType:o,origins:[{name:d,identifier:fr}],imageService:q},caption:"Der Stausee Pecineagu in den südlichen Karpaten Rumäniens ist Teil des Piatra-Craiului-Nationalparks. Seine Wälder beherbergen eine aussergewöhnliche Vielfalt an Raubtieren wie Wölfen, Braunbären und Luchsen."},styles:{position:bn},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:v},{component:ah,identifier:v,id:"doc-1ht9o68t70",content:{title:"Umarmung eines Bären",id:"subtitle-umarmung-eines-b-ren"},contentTable:b,paidContent:c,prevElement:O,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojk2",content:{text:"Zwei Guides begleiten uns auf dieser Wanderung. Radu Micu sieht aus wie ein Mann, der entweder Ski läuft, wandert oder surft, auf jeden Fall immer in Bewegung ist. Micu arbeitete dreizehn Jahre auf einem Kreuzfahrtschiff. Er hat die Welt gesehen, zumindest eine Hälfte: Hawaii, Kuba, Panama und den Ozean darum herum. Dann entschloss er sich, mit seiner Familie in die Heimat zurückzukehren. Weil es dort am schönsten ist. Micu kennt Wege über die rumänischen Berge, die sonst nur die Tiere und die Hirten mit ihren Schafen begehen."},paidContent:c,prevElement:v,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojl0",content:{text:"Der zweite Begleiter heisst Nico Cosdan, er ist kleiner und drahtiger als Radu Micu, und er lacht viel öfter. Als Junge umarmte er einmal einen wilden jungen Bären (er wusste nicht, was er tat, und würde es nie wieder tun). Später zog er ein Rehkitz und ein Wildschwein-Frischling mit der Flasche auf. Nico Cosdan weiss alles über Spechte, Wacholder, Hagebutten und Gottesanbeterinnen."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojl1",content:{text:"Die beiden Männer sind zuverlässige Wegweiser im Urwald. Und sie kochen die karpatenweit beste «Mountain-Pasta» aus allem, was sie in ihren Rucksäcken über die Berge schleppen. (Behaupten sie!)"},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:v},{component:ah,identifier:v,id:"doc-1ht9nvhag0",content:{title:"Wo der Fuchs bei den Hühnern schläft",id:"subtitle-wo-der-fuchs-bei-den-h-hnern-schl-ft"},contentTable:b,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojl2",content:{text:"An einem Abend kochen die beiden nicht. Wir kehren im Dorf Sinca Noua in einem Gästehaus ein. Ein grosses Gebäude mit holzverkleideten Giebeln. Rundherum weiden Pferde oder stehen in Unterständen, die meisten von ihnen sind Shagya-Araber, Vollblüter. Ihre Vorfahren stammen aus der Österreichisch-Ungarischen Monarchie."},data:{},paidContent:c,prevElement:v,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojl3",content:{text:"Dieses Gehöft ist Gästehaus und Reitstall in einem. Auch ein bisschen Bauernhof – mit Schweinen, Kürbissen und Brombeeren. Eine Mitarbeiterin erzählt, sie habe nur ein paar Wochen zuvor eines Morgens einen Fuchs schlafend im Hühnerstall vorgefunden – und alle Tiere seien noch wohlauf. Eine wahre Geschichte. Sie hat ein Foto davon gemacht. So ein friedlicher Ort ist der Reiterhof in Sinca Noua."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojl4",content:{text:"Im rechten Flügel des Hauses wohnen Barbara und Christoph Promberger. Ihnen gehört der Hof. Und von ihnen stammt die Idee zum neuen Wanderweg."},data:{},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojl5",content:{text:"Die Prombergers kamen Mitte der 1990er Jahre als Wolfsforscher in die Karpaten, untersuchten das Verhalten der Rudel, und als sie damit fertig waren, blieben sie in Rumänien."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:O},{component:bm,identifier:O,id:"doc-1i1per4km2",content:{image:{originalUrl:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002F0ef8a70a-3fcf-43a6-b3c4-b448863b6a44.jpeg",url:fs,mediaId:"3jNtmAsZiwiJ",key:"2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002F0ef8a70a-3fcf-43a6-b3c4-b448863b6a44.jpeg",width:3577,height:2385,mimeType:o,altText:"zu Besuch auf dem Pferdehof Equus Silvania in Sinca Noua bei Barbara und Christoph Promberger ",origins:[{name:d,identifier:ft}],imageService:q},caption:"Barbara und Christoph Promberger kamen Mitte der 1990er Jahre als Wolfsforscher in die Karpaten. Sie gründeten 2009 die Stiftung Conservation Carpathia, um eine der urwüchsigsten Gegenden Europas zu schützen."},styles:{position:bn},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:v},{component:ah,identifier:v,id:"doc-1ht9o8gpf0",content:{title:"Ambitioniertes Nationalparkprojekt",id:"subtitle-ambitioniertes-nationalparkprojekt"},contentTable:b,paidContent:c,prevElement:O,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojm0",content:{text:"Im Jahr 2009 gründete das Paar die Stiftung Conservation Carpathia. Die Stiftung sammelt Spendengelder und kauft damit Wälder auf, um sie vor illegalem Holzeinschlag und Wilderei zu schützen. Bislang stehen mehr als 25&nbsp;000 Hektaren unter Schutz. Irgendwann einmal sollen es mehr als 250&nbsp;000 Hektaren sein – vom Tal des Olt-Flusses im Westen bis zur Gebirgskette Piatra Craiului im Osten."},data:{},paidContent:c,prevElement:v,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojm1",content:{text:"In Europa gibt es mehr als 300 Nationalparks, aber weltweit berühmt ist keiner davon. Das möchten die Prombergers ändern. Ihr Schutzgebiet soll einmal Europas grösster Nationalpark werden, von Ansehen und Schönheit vergleichbar mit dem Yellowstone Park in den USA oder dem Krüger-Nationalpark in Südafrika. Ein ehrgeiziges Projekt, eines der ambitioniertesten europäischen Naturschutzprojekte."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojm2",content:{text:"Lange spielte Tourismus bei den Planungen der Stiftung keine grosse Rolle. Das ändert sich nun mehr und mehr. «Wir nehmen hochproduktive Wälder aus der Nutzung», sagt Barbara Promberger. Soll heissen: Die Bewohner der Karpaten können und sollen das Holz ihrer Wälder nicht mehr schlagen, kein Geld mehr damit verdienen. Und das heisst auch: Sie brauchen eine alternative Erwerbsquelle. «Der Tourismus ist nicht die einzige, aber eine logische Alternative», sagt die Stiftungsgründerin."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojm3",content:{text:"Die Prombergers planen einen sanften Tourismus, vor allem am Rand des Schutzgebietes, mit ausschliesslich geführten Touren. «Natürlich bedeutet Naturschutz, dass der lokalen Bevölkerung Restriktionen auferlegt werden», sagt Barbara Promberger. «Mit dem Tourismus bekommen die Menschen etwas zurück.»"},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojm4",content:{text:"Der neu geplante Wanderweg verbindet Seminarhäuser der Stiftung, Wildbeobachtungshütten und lokale Gasthäuser miteinander. 120 Kilometer verteilen sich auf sieben Etappen."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:v},{component:ah,identifier:v,id:"doc-1ht9od2ef0",content:{title:"Wilde Tiere beobachten",id:"subtitle-wilde-tiere-beobachten"},contentTable:b,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojm5",content:{text:"Die Wildnis ist in den Karpaten nie weit entfernt. Ein paar Stunden sind wir bergauf gewandert, umgeben von Ebereschen, Bergulmen, Ahornen und Eiben. Bäumen, die in diesen Bergen schon seit Jahrtausenden ungestört wachsen. Radu Micu erzählt vom Saft der Birken, streichelt zwei Jahre alte Fichten («so gross wie mein kleiner Finger») und versucht 35 verschiedene Minzsorten aus dem Gedächtnis aufzuzählen."},data:{},paidContent:c,prevElement:v,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojn0",content:{text:"Da taucht auf einer Hochgebirgswiese ein hölzerner Bau auf, lange ist nur das begrünte Dach zu sehen. Unscheinbar schmiegt sich die Wildbeobachtungshütte Comisu an den Hang. Drinnen fühlen wir uns dennoch wie in einem gedeckten Aussichtsturm. Durch das Panoramafenster blicken wir weit ins menschenleere Land hinein, von hier oben betrachtet, sehen die Wälder aus wie ein farbenfroher Flickenteppich."},data:{},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojn1",content:{text:"Radu Micu macht ein Feuer im Ofen, bereitet die Pasta zu, und wir sitzen still auf Hockern, starren durch die Scheiben auf die Landschaft, die langsam von bunt zu grau zu schwarz wird."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojn2",content:{text:"Später lesen wir im Tagebuch der Hütte von zahlreichen Beobachtungen: «20.&nbsp;Mai, zwei Wildschweine geniessen den letzten Tagesschimmer.» «22.&nbsp;Mai, ein junger männlicher Bär wanderte genau vor die Hütte, stand auf seinen Hinterbeinen und verschwand wieder im Wald.» Noch ein Bär, ein wenig Rotwild, wieder ein Bär."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojn3",content:{text:"Wir sehen zwei Eichelhäher – sonst nichts. Dennoch blicken wir immer noch nach draussen, als die Nudeln längst aufgegessen sind. Kerzenschein taucht das Innere der Hütte in warmes Licht. Es fühlt sich zunehmend so an, als beobachteten wir nicht nur die Natur, sondern würden ein Teil von ihr."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojn4",content:{text:"Die rumänische Wildnis ist bedroht. In den vergangenen Jahrzehnten wurden die Wälder massiv abgeholzt. Jährlich verschwinden etwa 20 Millionen Kubikmeter Holz. Das ist mehr, als legal geschlagen wird. Der Kahlschlag frisst sich tiefer und tiefer hinein in den Urwald."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:v},{component:ah,identifier:v,id:"doc-1ht9oj8nu0",content:{title:"Sanfte Hügel und hochalpine Steilhänge",id:"subtitle-sanfte-h-gel-und-hochalpine-steilh-nge"},contentTable:b,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojn5",content:{text:"Am Morgen glimmt noch Glut im Ofen (weil Nico Cosdan während der Nacht wiederholt Holz nachgelegt hat). Und wir sehen das erste Tier. Eine Maus zappelt in der Lebendfalle. Wir lassen sie draussen frei. Dort ist die Welt über Nacht eingefroren. Stockstarr liegt das Gras auf den Wiesen am Boden, der Frost hat es zu Boden gedrückt. Die Berggipfel entlang unserer Route verstecken sich in dicken, schweren Wolken."},paidContent:c,prevElement:v,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojo0",content:{text:"Radu Micu schaut skeptisch in ihre Richtung. Es ist windig, beim Aufstieg wird der Sturm noch zulegen. Wir entscheiden uns trotzdem zum Weitergehen. Schon bald schleudert uns der Sturm Eiskristalle in die Gesichter. Wir sinken in Schneewehen, das Trinkwasser gefriert in den Flaschen, wir flüchten für eine kurze Atempause in eine Nothütte nahe dem Gipfel Berevoescu Mare."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:O},{component:bm,identifier:O,id:"doc-1i1peu80b1",content:{image:{originalUrl:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002Fb49c2956-59b7-49ce-975f-5445990cbedb.jpeg",url:fu,mediaId:"odbB4zsbHnSF",key:"2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002Fb49c2956-59b7-49ce-975f-5445990cbedb.jpeg",width:3704,height:2469,mimeType:o,altText:"Schnee am Morgen bei der Comisu-Wildbeobachtungshütte, Schnee kann es hier von Oktober bis Mai geben ",origins:[{name:d,identifier:fv}],imageService:q},caption:fw},styles:{position:bn},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojo1",content:{text:"Die Karpaten haben zwei Gesichter. Eines mit sanften Hügeln, dichten Wäldern und Dörfern, die Vergangenheit atmen. Einsamkeit, gepaart mit Geborgenheit. Das andere Gesicht zeigt hochalpine An- und Abstiege, raue und abweisende Steilhänge. Einsamkeit und Erschöpfung."},paidContent:c,prevElement:O,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojo2",content:{text:"In einem grossen Bogen zieht sich die mächtige Gebirgskette durch Europa – von Österreich bis in den Osten Serbiens. Im rumänischen Teil stapfen wir einen über 2300 Meter hohen Grat entlang, äusserlich nun auch gefroren, aber innen drin voller Eifer und Begeisterung."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojo3",content:{text:"Nico Cosdan breitet die Arme aus und brüllt gegen den Wind an. Weit und breit keine Menschen ausser uns."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9onub71",content:{text:"Cosdan ist schon vor einiger Zeit aus seiner Stadtwohnung ausgezogen und hat sich einen Obstgarten und einen Bauwagen gekauft. Nach Jahren der Sinnsuche in Büros und Diskotheken weiss er, was er möchte: näher an die Natur heran. Pilze züchten und Beeren ernten. Vielleicht ist das auch etwas, was die Karpaten mit den Menschen machen. Sie behalten die Ehrfurcht vor der Natur. Oder entdecken sie wieder."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:v},{component:ah,identifier:v,id:"doc-1ht9op6260",content:{title:"Die Tiere beobachten die Beobachter",id:"subtitle-die-tiere-beobachten-die-beobachter"},contentTable:b,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojo4",content:{text:"Als wir an einem anderen Tag langsam aus der Höhe absteigen, verwandelt sich die Landschaft. Zunächst verschwinden die Wolken, dann der Schnee. Irgendwann hängen nur noch dünne Eisplatten zwischen den Grashalmen. Und dann ist es plötzlich ein strahlend schöner Spätsommertag. Nur die unwirklich wirkenden weissen Gipfel in der Ferne erinnern daran, wo wir herkamen."},paidContent:c,prevElement:v,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojp0",content:{text:"Während wir über die Wiesen wandern, erzählen Radu Micu und Nico Cosdan von den Tieren und Pflanzen der Karpaten. Braunbären gibt es dort selbstverständlich, auch Wölfe, Gemsen, Wildschweine, Luchse. Bisons werden gerade wieder angesiedelt. Hier haben die kleinen, aber vor allem die grossen Tiere Europas noch genug Platz zum Leben."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojp1",content:{text:"Ich fühle mich inzwischen so wenig als Besucherin, dass ich fest damit rechne, hinter der nächsten Hügelkuppe eine Bärenmutter zu treffen, ein paar Bergziegen vielleicht oder einen streunenden Wolf. Ich freue mich darauf. Allein: Sie tauchen nicht auf."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojp2",content:{text:"Nico Cosdan dreht sich augenzwinkernd zu mir um. «Wir sehen die Tiere nicht. Aber sie sehen uns.» Bären, Luchse und Wölfe nehmen Menschen viel früher wahr als wir sie. Sie ziehen sich zurück, beobachten diejenigen, die eigentlich sie beobachten wollen. Wildnis bedeutet eben auch, dass die Verhältnisse auf den Kopf gestellt werden. Wir Wanderer sind zwar Teil der Natur, aber noch lange nicht Teil des wilden Lebens."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:v},{component:ah,identifier:v,id:"doc-1ht9ouk9e0",content:{title:"Am Scheideweg: Wildnis roden oder bewahren?",id:"subtitle-am-scheideweg-wildnis-roden-oder-bewahren"},contentTable:b,paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojp3",content:{text:"Als wir von einer Anhöhe in ein weiteres Tal schauen, sehen wir plötzlich Spuren der Verwüstung am Hang. Von weitem sieht es aus, als habe jemand ein riesiges Stück aus einem grünen Teppich geschnitten. Es ist ein sogenannter Kahlschlag. Eine illegale Baumrodung, der Hang ist braun statt grün."},paidContent:c,prevElement:v,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojp4",content:{text:"Mehr als zehn Jahre alt ist dieser Kahlschlag. Radu Micu berichtet, über viele Monate seien jeden Tag fünfzig Lastwagen aus dem Wald gefahren, beladen mit Baumstämmen. Warum hat niemand etwas dagegen unternommen? Micu zuckt mit den Schultern. «Mafia. Es ist sehr einfach, dafür zu sorgen, dass bestimmte Stellen wegschauen. Man bezahlt sie.»"},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojp5",content:{text:"Auch dieser verwundete Teil der Karpaten gehört inzwischen der Stiftung Conservation Carpathia. Die hat mittlerweile 142 Hektaren gerodetes Land wieder aufgeforstet. Zunächst werden die tiefen Furchen, die die Fahrzeuge in den Boden gerissen haben, mit Erde und Kies aufgefüllt und befestigt, damit neue Pflanzen Halt finden können. Dann setzen Saisonarbeiter Ulmen, Bergahorne, Ebereschen und Eiben in den Boden. Es sind schmale, schwindsüchtige Setzlinge, die Jahrzehnte um ihr Überleben kämpfen werden. Die Wunden des Waldes heilen langsam."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojq0",content:{text:"Barbara Promberger hat bei unserem Besuch auf dem Pferdehof gesagt, dass es für Rumänien noch nicht zu spät sei. Noch sei genügend unberührter Urwald vorhanden. Andere Länder in Europa hätten ihre Wildnis vor langer Zeit verloren. Rumänien könne sich noch entscheiden, ob es wild bleiben möchte. «Das Land kann die grüne Lunge Europas sein. Es ist ein grüner Schatz.»"},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojq1",content:{text:"Fast alle Menschen (und das sind nicht viele), die wir auf dieser Wanderung treffen, sprechen von der Natur der Karpaten wie von einem legendären Schatz. Wie von einer Rarität, einer Kostbarkeit, die bislang nur von wenigen entdeckt wurde."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:O},{component:bm,identifier:O,id:"doc-1i1pnjj4f2",content:{image:{originalUrl:"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002Fc61e4398-3a66-46b2-a4d5-067093ccc908.jpeg",url:fx,mediaId:"pgE75ohDRjIn",key:"2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002Fc61e4398-3a66-46b2-a4d5-067093ccc908.jpeg",width:3774,height:2516,mimeType:o,altText:"Wanderung durch die Fagaras-Berge ",origins:[{name:d,identifier:fy}],imageService:q},caption:"Blick auf ein Tal auf dem Weg nach Nucsoara im Herzen der rumänischen Karpaten."},styles:{position:bn},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojq2",content:{text:"Die Stiftungsgründerin Promberger berichtete von uralten Buchen in dem Dorf Nucsoara und verglich sie mit «Juwelen». Ein Koch beim Gulasch-Festival blickte von seinem Kessel auf in Richtung der Hügel Siebenbürgens und sagte versonnen: «Sie leuchten golden.» Und der Wander-Guide Nico Cosdan sah in jedem durchsichtig scheinenden Pilz am Wegrand ein «Schmuckstück». In all den Worten funkelte und glitzerte die Freude über die Überfülle der Natur."},data:{},paidContent:c,prevElement:O,nextElement:e},{component:m,identifier:e,id:"doc-1ht9nbojq3",content:{text:"Am letzten Tag unserer Wanderung gehen wir durch ein Tal. Die Oberschenkel schmerzen von den Aufstiegen, noch stärker allerdings von den Abstiegen. Der Bach neben uns läuft viel schneller als wir. Felsen versperren den Blick in den Himmel. Nico Cosdan sagt: «Wusstet ihr, dass Eichhörnchen in Astgabeln Pilze zum Trocknen ablegen? Kleine, clevere Kerlchen.» Nun blicken wir genauer in alle Astgabeln. Vielleicht entdecken wir ihn ja auf unserer unerwarteten Suche. Den kleinen Schatz eines Eichhörnchens."},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:dT},{component:"footnote",identifier:dT,id:"doc-1i2bg5kru0",content:{text:"Karten und weiterführende Informationen: \u003Ca target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.travelcarpathia.com\"\u003Ewww.travelcarpathia.com\u003C\u002Fa\u003E"},data:{},paidContent:c,prevElement:e,nextElement:dU,lastContentElement:c},{component:"sharebox",identifier:dU,id:"doc-1hi4b7pnj2",paidContent:c,prevElement:dT,nextElement:bo},{component:fz,identifier:bo,id:"doc-1hi4b7pnk0",content:{title:fA},containers:{"moreToSubject-area":[{component:bp,identifier:bq,id:"doc-1hi4b7pnk2",content:{"link-box-embed":{service:br,params:{type:bs,layout:[F,bt,bu,bv,bw,bx,aH,by,H,aP,aQ,bz,aR,aS,aT,aU,aV],mediaId:fB}},article:{metadata:{teaserAuthor:X,contentTypeGroup:s,firstTitle:bY,significantUpdate:b,teaserGallery:{images:[],style:a},language:{groupId:fC,label:aW,locale:p},title:bY,seoTitle:fD,nzzAuthors:[{external:c,name:ai,id:aj,shortName:aI}],designName:w,nzzPrintTitle:fE,premium:b,teaserCarouselStyle:a,significantUpdateTill:fF,nzzEditor:[{external:b,name:bZ,id:b_,shortName:b$}],department:{path:G,premium:b,level:k,name:t},publicationDate:ca,slug:fG,printPublicationDate:fH,firstPublicationDate:ca,owner:r,authorLine:fI,nzzCharacterCount:fJ,lastProofreadRevision:fK,numberOfContentComponents:fL,seoDescription:fM,leadText:fN,publicationLastUpdated:fO,nzzArticleSnippet:fP,urlPath:fQ,teaserImage:{imageService:q,width:cb,originalUrl:fR,mimeType:o,crops:[{x:f,width:cb,name:x,y:fS,isAutomatic:b,url:fT,height:fU,ratio:A},{x:fV,width:cc,name:y,y:fW,isAutomatic:b,url:fX,height:cc,ratio:k},{x:fY,width:fZ,name:B,y:k,isAutomatic:b,url:f_,height:f$,ratio:C},{x:ga,width:gb,name:D,y:gc,isAutomatic:b,url:gd,height:ge,ratio:E}],mediaId:gf,url:gg,key:gh,height:gi},nzzId:bA,url:gj,dependencies:{},layout:H,estimationWordCount:gk,nzzPrintSubtitle:gl,nzzAbstract:gm,embeds:{images:[{author:X,caption:gn,origins:[{identifier:go,name:d}],url:gp},{author:gq,caption:gr,origins:[{identifier:gs,name:d}],url:gt},{author:X,caption:gu,origins:[{identifier:gv,name:d}],url:gw},{author:X,caption:gx,origins:[{identifier:gy,name:d}],url:gz},{author:X,caption:gA,origins:[{identifier:gB,name:d}],url:gC},{author:gD,caption:gE,origins:[{identifier:gF,name:d}],url:gG}],q_embeds:[{id:gH}],videos:[]},breadcrumbs:[{path:G,name:t}],teaserCaption:gI,documentId:gJ,product:z}}}},{component:bp,identifier:bq,id:"doc-1hi4b7pnk3",content:{"link-box-embed":{service:br,params:{type:bs,layout:[F,bt,bu,bv,bw,bx,aH,by,H,aP,aQ,bz,aR,aS,aT,aU,aV],mediaId:1556141}},article:{metadata:{teaserAuthor:gK,contentTypeGroup:s,flag:a,significantUpdate:b,language:{label:aW,locale:p},title:"Wandern in der Schweiz: die 15 schönsten Touren in Stadtnähe",seoTitle:"Wandern in der Schweiz: Die 15 schönsten Touren in Stadtnähe",nzzAuthors:[{external:c,name:ai,id:aj}],designName:w,significantUpdateTill:"2020-05-22T20:20:57.014Z",nzzEditor:[{external:b,name:"Susanna Müller (sm)",id:1373722}],department:{path:G,level:k,name:t},publicationDate:"2020-05-23T03:30:00.000Z",slug:"wandern-in-der-schweiz-die-15-schoensten-wanderungen-in-stadtnaehe",firstPublicationDate:"2020-05-22T08:20:57.014Z",nzzCharacterCount:17488,authorLine:"Andreas Staeger (Text), Corinna Staffe (Illustration), Kaspar Manz (Karten)",lastProofreadRevision:28899747,numberOfContentComponents:125,seoDescription:"Wandern kann man nicht nur in den Bergen. 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Dort leben Bären, Wölfe, Luchse und bald auch wieder Bisons. Ein ambitioniertes Naturschutzprojekt soll dazu beitragen. 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Ein Amerikaner erzählt von seiner Zeit bei TSMC, dem Konzern, der die Hightech-Industrie zurück in die USA bringen soll.",5464,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=5464,3073,x0,y166&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=3640,3640,x1824,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=4853,3640,x299,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=2730,3640,x1882,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","Hier schreibt Arizona Geschichte: die riesige TSMC-Baustelle in der kargen Landschaft der Sonora-Wüste.","Caitlin O’Hara \u002F The Washington Post \u002F Getty","Illustration Simon Tanner \u002F NZZ","«Der Körper ist eine Maschine, dessen Verschleissprobleme es zu lösen gilt»: Jährlich tagen in Gstaad die Superreichen und suchen nach dem ewigen Leben","Die Longevity-Konferenz ist halb Investorentreffen und halb seriöser Wissenschaftskongress mit Forschern wie dem britischen Bioingenieur Aubrey de Grey. Gemeinsam wollen die Teilnehmer den Tod abschaffen. Wie weit sind sie?","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1536,864,x0,y290&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",164,1214,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1214,1214,x164,y164&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1536,1152,x0,y192&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1024,1365,x194,y80&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","Martin Valentin Menke \u002F WDR","Die Kamera im Rotlichtmilieu: Dieser «Tatort» wäre gerne ein Dokumentarfilm","In «Siebte Etage», dem neuen «Tatort» aus Köln, hat sich das Opfer weitherum unbeliebt gemacht, der Kreis der Verdächtigen ist gross. Aber der Film interessiert sich mehr für das Milieu als für den Mörder.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F21\u002F7c0e2014-1e86-4d81-836b-57f4df740cc1.jpeg?crop=889,500,x48,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F21\u002F7c0e2014-1e86-4d81-836b-57f4df740cc1.jpeg?crop=494,494,x412,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F21\u002F7c0e2014-1e86-4d81-836b-57f4df740cc1.jpeg?crop=702,527,x69,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F21\u002F7c0e2014-1e86-4d81-836b-57f4df740cc1.jpeg?crop=371,494,x382,y57&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","Cosima Adam ist eine Angestellte vom Eroscenter-Geschäftsführer Gerald Kneissler – und wird des Mordes verdächtigt.","Anthony Anex \u002F Keystone","Sowohl beim Ausbau der Nationalstrassen als auch bei der Gesundheitsreform sagen die Umfragen ein knappes Rennen voraus. In Basel wird der Eurovision Song Contest zum Politikum.",6334,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F2a8303e2-91d4-4fd1-acca-7f42aa6e125a.jpeg?crop=6334,3563,x0,y330&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F2a8303e2-91d4-4fd1-acca-7f42aa6e125a.jpeg?crop=4223,4223,x1056,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F2a8303e2-91d4-4fd1-acca-7f42aa6e125a.jpeg?crop=5631,4223,x352,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F2a8303e2-91d4-4fd1-acca-7f42aa6e125a.jpeg?crop=3167,4223,x1583,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F2a8303e2-91d4-4fd1-acca-7f42aa6e125a.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","Der Verkehrsminister Albert Rösti hat bisher alle seine Abstimmungen gewonnen. Beim Autobahnausbau wird es knapper, als ihm lieb ist.","Hat Deutschland noch offene Kriegsschulden? Ein Völkerrechtler sagt: Nein","Deutschland hat im Zweiten Weltkrieg grosses Leid verursacht. Dafür verlangen Griechenland und Polen noch immer Reparationen. Nach Ansicht von Frank Schorkopf widerspricht das der Grundidee der Europäischen Union.",3678,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F5b184164-cdf8-43f6-9c60-310926876f08.jpeg?crop=3678,2069,x0,y240&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F5b184164-cdf8-43f6-9c60-310926876f08.jpeg?crop=2452,2452,x1226,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F5b184164-cdf8-43f6-9c60-310926876f08.jpeg?crop=3269,2452,x135,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F5b184164-cdf8-43f6-9c60-310926876f08.jpeg?crop=1839,2452,x1607,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F5b184164-cdf8-43f6-9c60-310926876f08.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","Kurz nach Hitlers Überfall auf Polen im Jahr 1939 bombardierte die Luftwaffe Warschau. Für das Leid, das Deutschland im Zweiten Weltkrieg angerichtet hat, fordert Polen noch heute Reparationen.","anonymous","font\u002Fwoff2","font","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002Fa4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",3720,2480,"morpheus.barrier","morpheus.q-embed","remote","morpheus.footnote","morpheus.sharebox",1500,"PD","bylinepoc","Wie die Füsse auf neue Ideen kommen","2024-06-21T03:34:00.000Z",3950,"Isabelle Baudet","2024-07-12T03:33:00.000Z","2024-07-19T03:30:00.000Z","2024-07-21T14:00:28.820Z","Volker Pabst (pab)",1373368,"pab","884526","Andreas Ernst (ahn)",1371808,"ahn","2024-11-21T04:30:00.000Z",2604,"\n window.twttr = (function (d, s, id) {\n var t, js, fjs = d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0];\n if (d.getElementById(id)) return;\n js = d.createElement(s); js.id = id;\n js.src= \"https:\u002F\u002Fplatform.twitter.com\u002Fwidgets.js\";\n fjs.parentNode.insertBefore(js, fjs);\n return window.twttr || (t = { _e: [], ready: function (f) { t._e.push(f) } });\n }(document, \"script\", \"twitter-wjs\"));\n window.twttr.ready(function(twttr){\n twttr.widgets.load();\n });\n ","embeds.twitter","Johanna Geron \u002F Reuters","Rumänische Richter werfen eine Präsidentschaftskandidatin aus dem Rennen – ist das Machtmissbrauch?","2024-10-11T03:30:00.000Z","Das Verfassungsgericht schliesst die rechtsradikale Politikerin Diana Sosoaca aus. Das Urteil sorgt für breite Kritik und wirft Fragen auf, die auch über Rumänien hinaus von Belang sind.","2024-08-08T03:00:00.000Z",290,"Kai Pfaffenbach \u002F Reuters","classification=default,relevance=default,layout=longformstandard","Article","https:\u002F\u002Fjobs.nzz.ch\u002F","https:\u002F\u002Fabo.nzz.ch\u002Ffaq\u002Fkontakt","\u002Fdeutschland\u002Fmobilitaet","subscription","NZZ abonnieren","main","Startseite","Neuste Artikel","departments","brand","Amerika","Leserseite","\u002Fleserseite","extra","https:\u002F\u002Fzeitungsarchiv.nzz.ch","nzzbrands","NZZ am Sonntag Magazin","\u002Fnzz-am-sonntag-magazin","https:\u002F\u002Fbellevue.nzz.ch\u002F","\u002Ffolio","\u002Fgeschichte","dossiers","Sponsored Content","Marktplatz","https:\u002F\u002Fjobs.nzz.ch","Weiterbildung","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nzzdomizil.ch","Trauerportal","https:\u002F\u002Ftrauer.nzz.ch","contact","Text\u002FBild-Lizenzen","https:\u002F\u002Fcorporate.nzz.ch\u002Fsyndication","AGB","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nzz.ch\u002Fagb","https:\u002F\u002Fabo.nzz.ch\u002Fkampagne\u002F?lp=99002143&trco=20007930-04-24-0103-0029-005317-00000006","\u003Cp\u003EEs ist ein Fehler aufgetreten. Bitte prüfen Sie Ihre Internetverbindung oder versuchen Sie es später erneut.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E",864,"Kann man beim Black Friday wirklich viel Geld sparen? Wie bereitet man sich am besten vor? Und was für Tricks wenden die Händler an? Die wichtigsten Fragen und Antworten",3285,"bellevue","morpheus.header","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002Fa4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg","ORJgwWnUs6PO","2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002Fa4feea71-e1d6-42d4-978d-e8adbc1df82d.jpeg","2157791120","b27f1973e5719eb9acb4e7a2875a9876","content","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002Ff2da1da2-14de-4cff-be91-3a7d5e54f015.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","2157790852","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002F0ef8a70a-3fcf-43a6-b3c4-b448863b6a44.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","2157790853","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002Fb49c2956-59b7-49ce-975f-5445990cbedb.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","2157791128","Über Nacht brachte ein Kälteeinbruch Frost. Vor der Wildbeobachtungshütte Comisu liegt eine weite Lichtung, oft Schauplatz faszinierender Bärenbeobachtungen.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F07\u002F08\u002Fc61e4398-3a66-46b2-a4d5-067093ccc908.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","2157791109","moreToSubject","Passend zum Artikel",1748354,"2j6lRcv6Q2-_91AM47XCE","Nockberge-Trail: Wirkt Wandern wie ein Antidepressivum?","Runterkommen beim Raufwandern","2023-09-15T17:22:01.696Z","reisen-runterkommen-beim-raufgehen","16.09.2023","Christian Schreiber",13948,57507560,35,"Runterkommen beim Raufgehen? Ein Selbstversuch auf dem Nockberge-Trail in Österreich.","Antworten liefert ein Selbstversuch auf dem österreichischen Weitwanderweg Nockberge-Trail sowie wissenschaftliche Studien.","2024-06-20T08:47:23.489Z","Antworten liefert ein Selbstversuch auf dem österreichischen Weitwanderweg Nockberge-Trail sowie wissenschaftliche Studien.","\u002Freisen\u002Freisen-runterkommen-beim-raufgehen-ld.1748354","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F08\u002F28\u002F9dcd195f-8c3b-4251-9dc4-230d9690f3a9.jpeg",548,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F08\u002F28\u002F9dcd195f-8c3b-4251-9dc4-230d9690f3a9.jpeg?crop=7360,4140,x0,y548&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",4140,2027,1897,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F08\u002F28\u002F9dcd195f-8c3b-4251-9dc4-230d9690f3a9.jpeg?crop=1345,1345,x2027,y1897&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",199,6549,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F08\u002F28\u002F9dcd195f-8c3b-4251-9dc4-230d9690f3a9.jpeg?crop=6549,4911,x199,y1&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",4911,1481,2300,1399,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F08\u002F28\u002F9dcd195f-8c3b-4251-9dc4-230d9690f3a9.jpeg?crop=2300,3067,x1481,y1399&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",3067,"sKGRUSacYC2g","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F08\u002F28\u002F9dcd195f-8c3b-4251-9dc4-230d9690f3a9.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","2023\u002F08\u002F28\u002F9dcd195f-8c3b-4251-9dc4-230d9690f3a9.jpeg",4912,"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nzz.ch\u002Freisen\u002Freisen-runterkommen-beim-raufgehen-ld.1748354",2176,"Wirkt Wandern tatsächlich wie ein Antidepressivum? Antworten liefert ein Selbstversuch auf dem österreichischen Fernwanderweg Nockberge-Trail sowie wissenschaftliche Studien. Von Christian Schreiber.","Runterkommen beim Raufgehen ","Die acht Tageswanderungen des Nockberge-Trails&nbsp;führen auf den Falkert und auf weitere Kuppen mit prächtigen Weitsichten.","2147232837","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F08\u002F28\u002F9dcd195f-8c3b-4251-9dc4-230d9690f3a9.jpeg?crop=7360,4907,x0,y3&quality=75&auto=webp","Lewald \u002F Imago","Der Weitwanderweg schlängelt sich in acht Etappen durch die Bergwelt.","2147807393","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F09\u002F14\u002Ffd15f3f3-4c1c-4e63-8d32-56680426a29c.jpeg?quality=75&auto=webp","Eine Rast am arvengesäumten&nbsp;Turracher See&nbsp;erquickt den Körper, während der Geist weiterwandelt.","2147232847","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F08\u002F28\u002F0b328e9f-0e23-457c-92eb-0bd7c19eb3a4.jpeg?quality=75&auto=webp","Für Entspannung sorgen Sitzbänke vor blumengeschmückten Almhütten wie der&nbsp;Priesshütte.","2147232890","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F08\u002F28\u002Fc5f98b9e-6a53-46f4-9cd2-e6fb98aa40e9.jpeg?quality=75&auto=webp","Die Landschaft spiegelt sich im Windebensee, der in den windfreien&nbsp;Momenten vollkommen eben daliegt und so zu seinem Namen kam.","2147232889","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F08\u002F28\u002F32c50794-5fbb-47bd-8aaf-3e7d28766da0.jpeg?quality=75&auto=webp","Michael Stabentheiner \u002F&nbsp;MBN-Tourismus","Wandern hat nicht nur gesundheitsfördernde Effekte auf den Körper, es wirkt sich auch positiv auf die Psyche aus.","2147232844","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F08\u002F28\u002F82cfede9-e1bb-4582-837a-ba16f0b2cde7.jpeg?quality=75&auto=webp","26c346117f533a83893f90bce28c3bbb","Die acht Tageswanderungen des Nockberge-Trails führen auf den Falkert und auf weitere Kuppen mit prächtigen Weitsichten.","1748354","Christoph Ruckstuhl \u002F NZZ",2000,"ld.1556141","Illustration Corinna Staffe","Wandern baut Stress ab. Eine Fernwanderung im Monte-Rosa-Gebiet wirkt deshalb wie Medizin. Und sie verleiht erst noch der Kreativität einen Schub.",3121,"ld.1744120","Das wenig frequentierte Monte-Rosa-Massiv ist für erfahrene Berggänger ein Wanderparadies: Pfad zum Monte-Moro-Pass.","Unterwegs im umgebauten Mini-Postauto: auf Entdeckungsreise in den hohen Norden",33,"Sie wollte dem Alltag entfliehen und Europa bereisen. Dazu baute eine Zürcher Primarlehrerin einen ausgedienten Quartierbus um. Was sie fand, war eine langsamere Welt, in der das Internet eine entscheidende Rolle spielt.",6240,347,"ld.1748422","Allein in der Natur, weit weg vom Alltag: Isabelle Baudet baute in 2 Monaten und 26 Wochenenden ein ausrangiertes Mini-Postauto zum Tiny-House mit Rädern um.",{},1223,{},"\u002Fthemen\u002Frumanien",{},"Octav Ganea \u002F Inquam \u002F Reuters","Vergnügungsreise nach Monaco: Eine Affäre mischt den Wahlkampf in Rumänien auf","Die Bekämpfung der Korruption ist eine der grossen Herausforderungen für Rumänien. Der Skandal um den aussichtsreichsten Kandidaten für das Präsidentenamt zeigt das deutlich.",4944,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002Fd37189f0-e3ec-4fc4-9fc5-7296f46917c9.jpeg?crop=4944,2781,x0,y515&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",692,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002Fd37189f0-e3ec-4fc4-9fc5-7296f46917c9.jpeg?crop=2604,2604,x1303,y692&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002Fd37189f0-e3ec-4fc4-9fc5-7296f46917c9.jpeg?crop=3473,2604,x854,y692&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002Fd37189f0-e3ec-4fc4-9fc5-7296f46917c9.jpeg?crop=2472,3296,x1410,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",3296,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002Fd37189f0-e3ec-4fc4-9fc5-7296f46917c9.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","Rumäniens sozialdemokratischer Regierungschef Marcel Ciolacu ist der aussichtsreichste Kandidat im Rennen um das Amt des Staatspräsidenten.","Kontroverses Urteil in Rumänien: Machtmissbrauch oder Schutz der Demokratie?","Volker Pabst",4243,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F10\u002F10\u002Fc91e44f3-b0c0-4b6a-97d8-6bb815eb3a25.jpeg?crop=4243,2387,x0,y442&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",774,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F10\u002F10\u002Fc91e44f3-b0c0-4b6a-97d8-6bb815eb3a25.jpeg?crop=774,774,x1633,y1222&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",314,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F10\u002F10\u002Fc91e44f3-b0c0-4b6a-97d8-6bb815eb3a25.jpeg?crop=3353,2515,x377,y314&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",2515,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F10\u002F10\u002Fc91e44f3-b0c0-4b6a-97d8-6bb815eb3a25.jpeg?crop=1886,2515,x1221,y314&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","Die rumänische Europaabgeordnete Diana Sosoaca hat das Parlament unter anderem als Haus Satans bezeichnet und eine Säuberung durch einen Priester gefordert.","Sabine Gudath \u002F Imago","2024-09-27T05:55:54.325Z","Die wichtigsten Neuigkeiten zur Hochwasser- und Unwetterlage in Mitteleuropa im Überblick.",8064,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F09\u002F25\u002Fdf35c62e-9b34-4754-b39f-ac2d0ff331cc.jpeg?crop=8064,4536,x0,y602&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F09\u002F25\u002Fdf35c62e-9b34-4754-b39f-ac2d0ff331cc.jpeg?crop=5739,5739,x1163,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F09\u002F25\u002Fdf35c62e-9b34-4754-b39f-ac2d0ff331cc.jpeg?crop=7652,5739,x206,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F09\u002F25\u002Fdf35c62e-9b34-4754-b39f-ac2d0ff331cc.jpeg?crop=4304,5739,x1880,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F09\u002F25\u002Fdf35c62e-9b34-4754-b39f-ac2d0ff331cc.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","Patrick Pleul \u002F dpa","David Tanecek \u002F Imago","Kacper Pempel \u002F Reuters","2083c683e736c9bc3a8fac78f8940d22","1817534fa8e6318b10ab4027afe592c8","Abschiessen oder nicht? Die Debatte über russische Luftraumverletzungen in Rumänien betrifft die ganze Nato","2024-09-12T03:30:00.000Z","Am Wochenende sind erneut russische Drohnen in den Luftraum von Nato-Staaten eingedrungen. Rumänien hat für den Abschuss der Fluggeräte hohe rechtliche Hürden. Die Forderungen werden lauter, diese zu senken.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F12\u002F06\u002F33d4758d-a810-485c-8b38-bb055ee68c15.jpeg?crop=4314,2427,x945,y926&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",2557,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F12\u002F06\u002F33d4758d-a810-485c-8b38-bb055ee68c15.jpeg?crop=2557,2557,x1778,y770&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F12\u002F06\u002F33d4758d-a810-485c-8b38-bb055ee68c15.jpeg?crop=3409,2556,x1409,y765&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F12\u002F06\u002F33d4758d-a810-485c-8b38-bb055ee68c15.jpeg?crop=2426,3236,x1895,y422&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2023\u002F12\u002F06\u002F33d4758d-a810-485c-8b38-bb055ee68c15.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","Rumänische F-16 Kampfjets kontrollieren den Nato-Luftraum. Sollen sie russische Drohnen künftig abschiessen?",5315,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F02\u002F12\u002F010565b4-0459-425a-b9a3-e273c887c3e8.jpeg?crop=5315,2990,x0,y336&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",1966,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F02\u002F12\u002F010565b4-0459-425a-b9a3-e273c887c3e8.jpeg?crop=1966,1966,x2825,y775&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F02\u002F12\u002F010565b4-0459-425a-b9a3-e273c887c3e8.jpeg?crop=4724,3543,x290,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp",3543,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F02\u002F12\u002F010565b4-0459-425a-b9a3-e273c887c3e8.jpeg?crop=1866,2488,x2692,y1001&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","Das Metall der Begierde für Kriminelle: Kupfer.","Ronald Wittek \u002F EPA",2,"Die aktuellsten Meldungen rund um die Fussball-Europameisterschaft 2024 im Überblick.",3244,"François Letexier pfiff schon den EM-Achtelfinals zwischen Spanien und Georgien.","Abedin Taherkenareh \u002F EPA","Michaela Stache \u002F Reuters","Ebrahim Noroozi \u002F AP","Peter Klaunzer \u002F Keystone","Wolfgang Rattay \u002F Reuters","Paul Currie \u002F Imago",{},"Wandern in Transsilvaniens Wäldern, wo Europas Yellowstone Park entstehen soll,Reisen, Nachrichten, NZZ","2024-07-21T18:00:28+02:00","2024-07-19T07:30:00+02:00",138008459595436,143694099006529,1592685173,{},"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fnzz","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fnzz\u002F","online.redaktion@nzz.ch","2024 Neue Zürcher Zeitung AG, Schweiz","index, follow, noarchive, noodp, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1",{},Array(0),"de","Sun, 24 Nov 2024 05:19:36 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Snackbar","\u003Cp\u003ESie sehen nun die Ausgabe für Deutschland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","DECH - Country Switch Snackbar","\u003Cp\u003ESie sehen nun die Schweizer Ausgabe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","Tote auf der Baustelle und Sicherheitsanweisungen auf Mandarin: Über den Konzern aus Taiwan, der in Arizona Hightech-Chips bauen soll, häufen sich Klagen","olgnt1R-88Vt","Tote auf der Baustelle und Sicherheitsanweisungen auf Mandarin: Die hässliche Seite des Chip-Booms in Arizona","Marie-Astrid Langer (lma)",1373049,"lma","514871","Forrest Rogers (fr)",1651003,"fr","Tote auf der Baustelle und Sicherheitsanweisungen auf Mandarin","tote-auf-der-baustelle-und-sicherheitsanweisungen-auf-mandarin-ueber-den-konzern-aus-taiwan-der-in-arizona-hightech-chips-bauen-soll-haeufen-sich-klagen",17554,"Marie-Astrid Langer, Phoenix; Forrest Rogers",59,"TSMC baut in Arizona eine Fabrik für Hochleistungs-Chips - doch nun erheben Mitarbeuter schwere Vorwürfe wegen Diskriminierung, auch Tote gab es.","\u002Ftechnologie\u002Ftote-auf-der-baustelle-und-sicherheitsanweisungen-auf-mandarin-ueber-den-konzern-aus-taiwan-der-in-arizona-hightech-chips-bauen-soll-haeufen-sich-klagen-ld.1854049","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg",166,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=5464,3073,x0,y166&width=2048&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=5464,3073,x0,y166&width=620&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=5464,3073,x0,y166&width=320&quality=75&auto=webp",3073,1824,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=3640,3640,x1824,y0&width=2048&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=3640,3640,x1824,y0&width=620&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=3640,3640,x1824,y0&width=320&quality=75&auto=webp",299,4853,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=4853,3640,x299,y0&width=2048&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=4853,3640,x299,y0&width=620&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=4853,3640,x299,y0&width=320&quality=75&auto=webp",1882,2730,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=2730,3640,x1882,y0&width=2048&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=2730,3640,x1882,y0&width=620&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg?crop=2730,3640,x1882,y0&width=320&quality=75&auto=webp","3EPbjSmFzZLR","2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F11a2d13c-8e20-4184-9677-55bbcc58e4f9.jpeg","ld.1854049","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nzz.ch\u002Ftechnologie\u002Ftote-auf-der-baustelle-und-sicherheitsanweisungen-auf-mandarin-ueber-den-konzern-aus-taiwan-der-in-arizona-hightech-chips-bauen-soll-haeufen-sich-klagen-ld.1854049",2621,"2163072729","Die Bauarbeiten gehen weiter: Als TSMC 2020 ankündigte, Hochleistungschips auch&nbsp;in den USA zu fertigen, war das eine Sensation.","2163072462","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002F76831fe1-403b-4c43-a614-a071d9254567.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","Das Unternehmen diskriminiere Amerikaner und stelle bevorzugt Taiwaner ein, die man zu Hunderten einfliege, klagen Gewerkschaften.","2163072450","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002Fd29cdd00-ed02-449a-95f1-9930853801b0.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","Jonathan Ernst \u002F Reuters","Die amerikanische Regierung jubelt: Präsident Joe Biden besucht die TSMC am 6. Dezember 2022.","2159806482","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F20\u002Fb6e75150-28e4-44cf-b558-6212d071ec25.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","Marie-Astrid Langer","Die erste von drei geplanten Chipfabriken in Phoenix ist fertig, mit&nbsp;silberfarbenem Anstrich und einer Luftbrücke.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F13\u002Ff8d78495-6bb6-433d-a312-615458b98143.jpeg?crop=4032,2688,x0,y39&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","e9c318ad32f2e3ef820c9e6f2369fa48","b32c8632c73a756a315235fe7c842380","1854049","wTyfDUmN6Sjk4_ZN2AIup","Longevity-Trend: Superreiche in Gstaad und die Suche nach dem ewigen Leben","«Der Körper ist eine Maschine, dessen Verschleissprobleme es zu lösen gilt» \u002F\u002F\u002F Die Superreichen treffen sich, um ewig zu leben","Roman Bucheli (rbl)",1373493,"rbl","3003","der-koerper-ist-eine-maschine-dessen-verschleissprobleme-es-zu-loesen-gilt-jaehrlich-tagen-in-gstaad-die-superreichen-und-suchen-nach-dem-ewigen-leben",11033,"Benedikt Herber",23,"\u002Ffeuilleton\u002Fder-koerper-ist-eine-maschine-dessen-verschleissprobleme-es-zu-loesen-gilt-jaehrlich-tagen-in-gstaad-die-superreichen-und-suchen-nach-dem-ewigen-leben-ld.1858165","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1536,864,x0,y290&width=2048&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1536,864,x0,y290&width=620&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1536,864,x0,y290&width=320&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1214,1214,x164,y164&width=2048&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1214,1214,x164,y164&width=620&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1214,1214,x164,y164&width=320&quality=75&auto=webp",192,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1536,1152,x0,y192&width=2048&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1536,1152,x0,y192&width=620&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1536,1152,x0,y192&width=320&quality=75&auto=webp",1152,194,80,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1024,1365,x194,y80&width=2048&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1024,1365,x194,y80&width=620&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?crop=1024,1365,x194,y80&width=320&quality=75&auto=webp",1365,"UBGalVn33kvI","2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F1d5beb4a-8e2b-41e3-80b2-90b3ca17d16e.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","ld.1858165","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nzz.ch\u002Ffeuilleton\u002Fder-koerper-ist-eine-maschine-dessen-verschleissprobleme-es-zu-loesen-gilt-jaehrlich-tagen-in-gstaad-die-superreichen-und-suchen-nach-dem-ewigen-leben-ld.1858165",1709,"(Jährlich tagen in Gstaad die Superreichen auf der Suche nach der Unsterblichkeit). Die Longevity-Konferenz (in Gstaad) ist halb Investorentreffen und halb seriöser Wissenschaftskongress aus Forschern wie dem britischen Bioingenieur Aubrey De Grey. Gemeinsam wollen sie den Tod abschaffen. Wie weit sind sie?","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F22\u002F8afe6edc-0b35-4b31-97b3-68581cb7f1f9.png?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","1858165","Onnie A Koski \u002F Getty","Kawaii oder die Infantilisierung der modernen Welt: Die Begeisterung für Kitsch und Konsum verbindet in Japan eine Gesellschaft, der die Kinder fehlen","Japan steht am Ursprung jener Populärkultur der Herzigkeit, die mittlerweile die halbe Welt erobert hat. Die Begeisterung für das Kleine, Liebliche und Süsse ist höfischen Ursprungs.",5184,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F21\u002Fd6d7c0a9-2c09-4ab5-9203-fa3196c2b6a8.jpeg?crop=5184,2916,x0,y270&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F21\u002Fd6d7c0a9-2c09-4ab5-9203-fa3196c2b6a8.jpeg?crop=3456,3456,x864,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F21\u002Fd6d7c0a9-2c09-4ab5-9203-fa3196c2b6a8.jpeg?crop=4608,3456,x288,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F21\u002Fd6d7c0a9-2c09-4ab5-9203-fa3196c2b6a8.jpeg?crop=2592,3456,x1296,y0&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F21\u002Fd6d7c0a9-2c09-4ab5-9203-fa3196c2b6a8.jpeg?width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","l9koTZnT4ez3aUhdvUSt3","Tatort «Siebte Etage»: Mord im Milieu ","Marion Löhndorf (mlö)",1373198,"mlö","Kamera im Rotlichtmillieu","Tatort 'Siebte Etage': Dunkelheit und Rotlicht ","Ueli Bernays (ubs)",1373927,"ubs","514779","tatort-siebte-etage-mord-im-milieu",3734,"Marion 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Kölner Tatort 'Siebte Etage' wäre gerne ein Dokumentarfilm ","2163100640","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.nzz.ch\u002F2024\u002F11\u002F21\u002F7c0e2014-1e86-4d81-836b-57f4df740cc1.jpeg?crop=818,534,x41,y1&width=1024&quality=75&auto=webp","1858585","Abstimmungen: Nervosität vor ersten Hochrechnungen ist gross – Befürworter des Autobahnausbaus müssen zittern","4bZYhncDO_6y6PpOk9p-c","Abstimmungen: Nervosität vor ersten Hochrechnungen ist gross – Autobahnbefürworter müssen zittern","Abstimmungen: Autobahnausbau und Gesundheitsreform Efas auf Kippe","Erich Aschwanden (ase)",1371893,"ase","165938","abstimmungen-nervositaet-vor-ersten-hochrechnungen-ist-gross-befuerworter-des-autobahnausbaus-muessen-zittern",4797,"Erich 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