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document.getElementById('Lifestyle-button'); if (!columnInput) return; // Sticky nav replaces the nav so element no longer exists for users in test. columnInput.addEventListener('keydown', function(e){ // keyCode: 13 => Enter key | keyCode: 32 => Space key if (e.keyCode === 13 || e.keyCode === 32) { e.preventDefault() document.getElementById('Lifestyle-checkbox-input').click(); } }) })</script><input type="checkbox" id="Lifestyle-checkbox-input" tabIndex="-1" aria-hidden="true" class="dcr-1acea34"/><label id="Lifestyle-button" aria-label="Toggle Lifestyle" for="Lifestyle-checkbox-input" aria-haspopup="true" aria-controls="lifestyleLinks" tabIndex="-1" role="menuitem" data-testid="column-collapse-Lifestyle" data-link-name="header : secondary : Lifestyle" class="selectableMenuItem dcr-yq9plo">Lifestyle</label><ul role="menu" id="lifestyleLinks" data-testid="lifestyleLinks" class="dcr-1utnfys"><li role="none" class="dcr-9ra8aa"><a href="/lifeandstyle" role="menuitem" 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srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/77fca440a945c210375fa3e8655701e6077578f6/0_192_5768_3461/master/5768.jpg?width=965&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 740px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/77fca440a945c210375fa3e8655701e6077578f6/0_192_5768_3461/master/5768.jpg?width=725&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 660px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 660px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/77fca440a945c210375fa3e8655701e6077578f6/0_192_5768_3461/master/5768.jpg?width=725&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 660px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/77fca440a945c210375fa3e8655701e6077578f6/0_192_5768_3461/master/5768.jpg?width=645&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 480px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 480px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/77fca440a945c210375fa3e8655701e6077578f6/0_192_5768_3461/master/5768.jpg?width=645&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 480px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/77fca440a945c210375fa3e8655701e6077578f6/0_192_5768_3461/master/5768.jpg?width=465&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 320px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 320px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/77fca440a945c210375fa3e8655701e6077578f6/0_192_5768_3461/master/5768.jpg?width=465&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 320px)"/><img alt="The Old Town in Aarhus, Denmark’s second city." src="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/77fca440a945c210375fa3e8655701e6077578f6/0_192_5768_3461/master/5768.jpg?width=465&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" width="465" height="279.0161234396671" loading="eager" class="dcr-evn1e9"/></picture><span class="dcr-v822l1"><div class="dcr-gup2gr"><div class="dcr-zy1nbx"><label for="the-checkbox" class="dcr-1xgwz8b"><svg width="6" height="14" fill="white" viewBox="0 0 6 14"><path d="M4.6 12l-.4 1.4c-.7.2-1.9.6-3 .6-.7 0-1.2-.2-1.2-.9 0-.2 0-.3.1-.5l2-6.7H.7l.4-1.5 4.2-.6h.2L3 12h1.6zm-.3-9.2c-.9 0-1.4-.5-1.4-1.3C2.9.5 3.7 0 4.6 0 5.4 0 6 .5 6 1.3c0 1-.8 1.5-1.7 1.5z"></path></svg></label><input type="checkbox" id="the-checkbox"/> <div id="the-caption"><figcaption data-spacefinder-role="inline" class="dcr-1ie0kc7"><span class="dcr-1inf02i"><svg width="18" height="13" viewBox="0 0 18 13"><path d="M18 3.5v8l-1.5 1.5h-15l-1.5-1.5v-8l1.5-1.5h3.5l2-2h4l2 2h3.5l1.5 1.5zm-9 7.5c1.9 0 3.5-1.6 3.5-3.5s-1.6-3.5-3.5-3.5-3.5 1.6-3.5 3.5 1.6 3.5 3.5 3.5z"></path></svg></span><span class="dcr-1qvd3m6">The Old Town in Aarhus, Denmark’s second city.</span> Photograph: Alamy</figcaption></div></div></div></span><a href="#img-1" data-ignore="global-link-styling" aria-hidden="true" tabIndex="-1" class="open-lightbox dcr-13fd1ms"><button 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style="--grid-area:title;" data-gu-name="title" class="dcr-1fnjjtg"><div class="dcr-10355cg"><div class="dcr-0"><div class="dcr-4pzc03"><span class="dcr-1v9xu6e"></span><a href="https://www.theguardian.com/publication/theobserver" data-component="series" data-link-name="article series" class="dcr-u0pbjs"><span>The Observer</span></a><span class="dcr-n4pnam"><a href="https://www.theguardian.com/travel/denmark" data-component="section" data-link-name="article section" class="dcr-1v9e6r1"><span>Denmark holidays</span></a></span></div></div></div></aside><div style="--grid-area:border;" data-gu-name="border" class="dcr-1fnjjtg"><div class="dcr-upmzd8"></div></div><div style="--grid-area:headline;" data-gu-name="headline" class="dcr-1fnjjtg"><div class="dcr-14emo0l"><div class="dcr-cohhs3"><h1 class="dcr-1w6uej9">Great Dane: a tour of Denmark’s culture, countryside and coast</h1></div></div></div><div style="--grid-area:standfirst;" data-gu-name="standfirst" class="dcr-1fnjjtg"><div class=" dcr-1mt0mpc"><p>Lakes, saunas, art, food – and Hamlet’s castle. A whistlestop tour of the best that Denmark has to offer</p></div></div><aside style="--grid-area:meta;" data-gu-name="meta" class="dcr-1fnjjtg"><div class="dcr-14emo0l"><div class="dcr-ich95x"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="100%" height="13" viewBox="0 0 1300 13" preserveAspectRatio="none" stroke="var(--straight-lines)" stroke-width="1" aria-hidden="true" focusable="false" class="dcr-194w08h"><line x1="0" x2="1300" y1="0.5" y2="0.5"></line><line x1="0" x2="1300" y1="4.5" y2="4.5"></line><line x1="0" x2="1300" y1="8.5" y2="8.5"></line><line x1="0" x2="1300" y1="12.5" y2="12.5"></line></svg></div></div><div class="dcr-bjqdol"><div class=" dcr-1v9sla6"><div class="dcr-5oiine"><div class="dcr-1kpcv08"><div><address aria-label="Contributor info" data-component="meta-byline" data-link-name="byline"><div class=" dcr-1cfpnlw"><a rel="author" data-link-name="auto tag link" href="https://www.theguardian.com/profile/genevieve-fox">Genevieve Fox</a></div></address><div style="--mobile-color:inherit;" class="dcr-1pexjb9">Sun 17 Nov 2024 14.00 GMT</div></div></div><div data-print-layout="hide" class="dcr-9dgpdq"><div class=" dcr-16lnb0w"><gu-island name="ShareButton" priority="feature" deferUntil="visible" props="{"pageId":"travel/2024/nov/17/denmark-tour-culture-countryside-coast","webTitle":"Great Dane: a tour of Denmark’s culture, countryside and coast","format":{"design":10,"display":2,"theme":4},"context":"ArticleMeta"}"><a href="mailto:?subject=Great Dane: a tour of Denmark’s culture, countryside and coast&body=https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2024/nov/17/denmark-tour-culture-countryside-coast?CMP=share_btn_url" type="button" class="dcr-bao4ku">Share<div class="src-button-space"></div><svg viewBox="-3 -3 30 30" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" aria-hidden="true"><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M19 16c1.675 0 3 1.35 3 3 0 1.675-1.325 3-3 3a2.97 2.97 0 0 1-2.975-3c0-.125 0-.275.025-.375L7.1 14.15a2.9 2.9 0 0 1-2.075.825C3.325 14.975 2 13.65 2 12a3.004 3.004 0 0 1 3.025-3.025c.775 0 1.5.35 2.075.875l8.95-4.475c-.025-.1-.025-.225-.025-.4A2.966 2.966 0 0 1 19 2c1.675 0 3 1.325 3 2.975C22 6.65 20.675 8 19 8c-.8 0-1.475-.325-2.05-.825l-8.975 4.45C8 11.7 8 11.825 8 12s0 .3-.025.375l8.975 4.45c.575-.5 1.25-.825 2.05-.825m0-12.8c-.975 0-1.8.775-1.8 1.775S18.025 6.8 19 6.8c1 0 1.825-.825 1.825-1.825S20 3.2 19 3.2m0 17.6c1 0 1.825-.825 1.825-1.8 0-1-.825-1.8-1.825-1.8-.975 0-1.8.8-1.8 1.8 0 .975.825 1.8 1.8 1.8"></path></svg></a></gu-island></div><div class=" dcr-1csot3r"><div class="dcr-14baf59"><div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="dcr-fu29fd"><span class="dcr-1lhv23l"><gu-island name="ExpandableMarketingCardWrapper" priority="enhancement" deferUntil="visible" props="{"guardianBaseURL":"https://www.theguardian.com"}"></gu-island></span></div></div></aside><div style="--grid-area:body;" data-gu-name="body" class="dcr-1upb05m"><span class="dcr-1iz7gbk"><gu-island name="ExpandableMarketingCardWrapper" priority="enhancement" deferUntil="idle" props="{"guardianBaseURL":"https://www.theguardian.com"}"></gu-island></span><div class="dcr-1a4fred"><div id="maincontent" class="dcr-1bwys2b"><div class="article-body-commercial-selector article-body-viewer-selector dcr-1q6n3e0"><p class="dcr-11uwh1i"><span style="color:var(--drop-cap);font-weight:700;" class="dcr-15rw6c2">D</span>on’t make small talk with strangers. Or talk about the weather. Or even ask people you know how they are… I read these social etiquette tips in a Denmark travel guide – four days into a 10-day trip. I’d already blown it on day one. “Look at that!” I said to the couple opposite me in the hotel’s below-ground sauna. A window looked on to the deep end of the outdoor pool. “A human fish!” Neither replied.</p><p class="dcr-11uwh1i">But there is so much to talk about, starting with our hotel, the <a href="https://guldsmedenhotels.com/bryggen-guldsmeden-4-star-resort-with-pool/?utm_source=GBP&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Bryggen+Guldsmeden+4-star+resort+with+pool&utm_content=website_button_GBP" data-link-name="in body link">Bryggen Guldsmeden Eco Resort</a>, a former shoe factory in Copenhagen’s harbour-front neighbourhood of Islands Brygge. In the reception area there are trees (fake, tasteful) of pink blossom, deer heads (also fake), wicker hanging chairs, funky stained glass – and that sauna. And then there are the Balinese bedrooms, chic pool loungers, the Babette’s Feast of a breakfast, and the silver bullet Airstream serving drinks by the pool.</p><div id="sign-in-gate"><gu-island name="SignInGateSelector" priority="feature" deferUntil="visible" props="{"contentType":"Article","sectionId":"travel","tags":[{"id":"travel/denmark","type":"Keyword","title":"Denmark holidays"},{"id":"travel/railtravel","type":"Keyword","title":"Rail travel"},{"id":"travel/road-trips","type":"Keyword","title":"Road trips"},{"id":"travel/copenhagen","type":"Keyword","title":"Copenhagen holidays"},{"id":"travel/travel","type":"Keyword","title":"Travel"},{"id":"travel/aarhus","type":"Keyword","title":"Aarhus holidays"},{"id":"travel/europe","type":"Keyword","title":"Europe holidays"},{"id":"campaign/email/guardian-traveller","type":"Campaign","title":"Guardian Traveller (newsletter 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id="1818eff5-b751-4b4d-b7df-eaf27c67b4d4" data-spacefinder-role="showcase" data-spacefinder-type="model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement" class=" dcr-5h0uf4"><div id="img-2" class="dcr-1t8m8f2"><picture class="dcr-evn1e9"><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/a571cf1e2f3b1be8494d6b8bb4649c7091bd3150/0_208_6240_3744/master/6240.jpg?width=880&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 1300px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1300px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/a571cf1e2f3b1be8494d6b8bb4649c7091bd3150/0_208_6240_3744/master/6240.jpg?width=880&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 1300px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/a571cf1e2f3b1be8494d6b8bb4649c7091bd3150/0_208_6240_3744/master/6240.jpg?width=800&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 1140px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1140px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/a571cf1e2f3b1be8494d6b8bb4649c7091bd3150/0_208_6240_3744/master/6240.jpg?width=800&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 1140px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/a571cf1e2f3b1be8494d6b8bb4649c7091bd3150/0_208_6240_3744/master/6240.jpg?width=640&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 980px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 980px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/a571cf1e2f3b1be8494d6b8bb4649c7091bd3150/0_208_6240_3744/master/6240.jpg?width=640&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 980px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/a571cf1e2f3b1be8494d6b8bb4649c7091bd3150/0_208_6240_3744/master/6240.jpg?width=620&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 660px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 660px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/a571cf1e2f3b1be8494d6b8bb4649c7091bd3150/0_208_6240_3744/master/6240.jpg?width=620&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 660px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/a571cf1e2f3b1be8494d6b8bb4649c7091bd3150/0_208_6240_3744/master/6240.jpg?width=605&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 480px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 480px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/a571cf1e2f3b1be8494d6b8bb4649c7091bd3150/0_208_6240_3744/master/6240.jpg?width=605&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 480px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/a571cf1e2f3b1be8494d6b8bb4649c7091bd3150/0_208_6240_3744/master/6240.jpg?width=445&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 320px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 320px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/a571cf1e2f3b1be8494d6b8bb4649c7091bd3150/0_208_6240_3744/master/6240.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 320px)"/><img alt="Bryggen Guldsmeden Eco Resort." src="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/a571cf1e2f3b1be8494d6b8bb4649c7091bd3150/0_208_6240_3744/master/6240.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" width="445" height="267" loading="lazy" class="dcr-evn1e9"/></picture><a href="#img-2" data-ignore="global-link-styling" aria-hidden="true" tabIndex="-1" class="open-lightbox dcr-13fd1ms"><button data-element-id="1818eff5-b751-4b4d-b7df-eaf27c67b4d4" type="button" aria-haspopup="dialog" class="open-lightbox dcr-4tmywn"><svg viewBox="-3 -3 30 30" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" aria-hidden="true"><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M23 8.75V1.5l-.5-.5h-7.25v1.25l4.5.6L14 8.575 15.4 10l5.75-5.725.6 4.475zm-22 6.5v7.25l.475.5h7.25v-1.25l-4.475-.6 5.725-5.775L8.6 14l-5.775 5.725-.575-4.475z"></path></svg><span class="dcr-194i6pr">View image in fullscreen</span></button></a></div><figcaption data-spacefinder-role="inline" class="dcr-1pvqcrw"><span class="dcr-1inf02i"><svg width="18" height="13" viewBox="0 0 18 13"><path d="M18 3.5v8l-1.5 1.5h-15l-1.5-1.5v-8l1.5-1.5h3.5l2-2h4l2 2h3.5l1.5 1.5zm-9 7.5c1.9 0 3.5-1.6 3.5-3.5s-1.6-3.5-3.5-3.5-3.5 1.6-3.5 3.5 1.6 3.5 3.5 3.5z"></path></svg></span><span class="dcr-1qvd3m6">And so to bed: Bryggen Guldsmeden Eco Resort.</span> Photograph: Nolwenn Pernin</figcaption></figure><p class="dcr-11uwh1i">We’re here on a family train and road trip, looking for a mix of urban culture, countryside and coast. After two days in Copenhagen on the island of Zealand, we drove up to the Danish Riviera before heading over to Jutland to explore the Danish Lake District and, finally, <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2022/apr/03/locals-guide-aarhus-live-music-parks-nordic-street-vibe" data-link-name="in body link">Aarhus</a>, Denmark’s terrific second city.</p><p class="dcr-11uwh1i">Our first morning was well spent. We took in the Cisterns, an underground art space created in a former reservoir. We were fortunate to catch <a href="https://frederiksbergmuseerne.dk/en/udstillinger/start-again-the-lament/" data-link-name="in body link">Start Again the Lament</a>, a sound installation by Tarya Simon exploring death, loss and grief. We walked, in the half-light, down illuminated paths floating over water, to stirring recitations by professional mourners.</p><p class="dcr-11uwh1i">Back in the light, we took a bus back to the centre and walked, via Nyhavn, the famous 17th-century harbour, to Nordre Toldbod waterfront, home to the buzzy seven-restaurant <a href="https://seasidecph.dk/en/" data-link-name="in body link">Seaside Toldboden complex</a>. We drank margaritas and watched the yachts in the sunshine. The city has nailed the communal experience, whether it’s eating and drinking or swimming in the canals or harbours. The <a href="https://www.visitcopenhagen.com/copenhagen/planning/islands-brygge-harbour-bath-gdk482346" data-link-name="in body link">Islands Brygge Harbour Bath</a>, near our hotel, is a local favourite.</p><figure id="d26d6f8d-5172-4336-aa99-85be86b1eac5" data-spacefinder-role="showcase" data-spacefinder-type="model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement" class=" dcr-5h0uf4"><div id="img-3" class="dcr-1t8m8f2"><picture class="dcr-evn1e9"><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/6983ecb10c93860b31e376601d409de575f67ddd/453_95_7499_4500/master/7499.jpg?width=880&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 1300px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1300px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/6983ecb10c93860b31e376601d409de575f67ddd/453_95_7499_4500/master/7499.jpg?width=880&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 1300px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/6983ecb10c93860b31e376601d409de575f67ddd/453_95_7499_4500/master/7499.jpg?width=800&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 1140px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1140px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/6983ecb10c93860b31e376601d409de575f67ddd/453_95_7499_4500/master/7499.jpg?width=800&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 1140px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/6983ecb10c93860b31e376601d409de575f67ddd/453_95_7499_4500/master/7499.jpg?width=640&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 980px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 980px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/6983ecb10c93860b31e376601d409de575f67ddd/453_95_7499_4500/master/7499.jpg?width=640&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 980px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/6983ecb10c93860b31e376601d409de575f67ddd/453_95_7499_4500/master/7499.jpg?width=620&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 660px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 660px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/6983ecb10c93860b31e376601d409de575f67ddd/453_95_7499_4500/master/7499.jpg?width=620&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 660px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/6983ecb10c93860b31e376601d409de575f67ddd/453_95_7499_4500/master/7499.jpg?width=605&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 480px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 480px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/6983ecb10c93860b31e376601d409de575f67ddd/453_95_7499_4500/master/7499.jpg?width=605&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 480px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/6983ecb10c93860b31e376601d409de575f67ddd/453_95_7499_4500/master/7499.jpg?width=445&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 320px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 320px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/6983ecb10c93860b31e376601d409de575f67ddd/453_95_7499_4500/master/7499.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 320px)"/><img alt="Evening at the harbour, Islands Brygge." src="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/6983ecb10c93860b31e376601d409de575f67ddd/453_95_7499_4500/master/7499.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" width="445" height="267.0356047472996" loading="lazy" class="dcr-evn1e9"/></picture><a href="#img-3" data-ignore="global-link-styling" aria-hidden="true" tabIndex="-1" class="open-lightbox dcr-13fd1ms"><button data-element-id="d26d6f8d-5172-4336-aa99-85be86b1eac5" type="button" aria-haspopup="dialog" class="open-lightbox dcr-4tmywn"><svg viewBox="-3 -3 30 30" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" aria-hidden="true"><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M23 8.75V1.5l-.5-.5h-7.25v1.25l4.5.6L14 8.575 15.4 10l5.75-5.725.6 4.475zm-22 6.5v7.25l.475.5h7.25v-1.25l-4.475-.6 5.725-5.775L8.6 14l-5.775 5.725-.575-4.475z"></path></svg><span class="dcr-194i6pr">View image in fullscreen</span></button></a></div><figcaption data-spacefinder-role="inline" class="dcr-1pvqcrw"><span class="dcr-1inf02i"><svg width="18" height="13" viewBox="0 0 18 13"><path d="M18 3.5v8l-1.5 1.5h-15l-1.5-1.5v-8l1.5-1.5h3.5l2-2h4l2 2h3.5l1.5 1.5zm-9 7.5c1.9 0 3.5-1.6 3.5-3.5s-1.6-3.5-3.5-3.5-3.5 1.6-3.5 3.5 1.6 3.5 3.5 3.5z"></path></svg></span><span class="dcr-1qvd3m6">‘We drank margaritas and watched the yachts in the sunshine’: evening at the harbour, Islands Brygge.</span> Photograph: Alamy</figcaption></figure><p class="dcr-11uwh1i">That night we ate at <a href="https://gazagrill.dk/en" data-link-name="in body link">Gaza Grill</a>, a good-value Middle Eastern spot in Vesterbro’s Meatpacking District. We got our indulgence fix the next night at the <a href="https://www.nimb.dk/" data-link-name="in body link">Nimb Hotel</a>, a Moorish fantasia with a wonderful rooftop bar. It backs on to Tivoli Gardens amusement park and its glam brasserie offers French cuisine and ringside seats on to the park.</p><p class="dcr-11uwh1i">What a contrast to the clean lines of the outstanding <a href="https://louisiana.dk/en/" data-link-name="in body link">Louisiana Museum of Modern Art</a>, a 40-minute train ride up the coast from Copenhagen. An 1870s villa and three modernist pavilions are set in a sculpture garden overlooking the sea. From there, we jumped on a 10-minute train ride up to Helsingør’s <a href="https://en.kronborg.dk/" data-link-name="in body link">Kronborg Castle</a>, the setting for Hamlet. As we made for the ramparts, the ghost scene ready to recite from one of our phones (this is Hamlet’s gaff – it had to be done!), a pair of newlyweds from Japan were posing for photographs in white silk and black sunglasses, a skull, Yorick’s presumably, held aloft. How fabulous tourists are, I thought, and gave them a rather unDanish cheer.</p><p class="dcr-11uwh1i">It was an easy 60km drive through flat, open farmland up to the Danish Riviera on the north Zealand coast, our destination - the old fishing village of Tisvilde and the rarefied <a href="https://helenekilde.com/" data-link-name="in body link">Helenkilde Badehotel</a>. With its smart lunch terrace, porch with rattan furniture, comfy-chic living rooms and a panoramic sauna with sea views, this clifftop hotel whispers restraint.</p><figure id="d095f689-25b9-4bb0-8b76-c93b53816765" data-spacefinder-role="showcase" data-spacefinder-type="model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement" class=" dcr-5h0uf4"><div id="img-4" class="dcr-1t8m8f2"><picture class="dcr-evn1e9"><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c740c9ec5cbc729a094729106af17b06c1c98cb4/0_4174_5229_3136/master/5229.jpg?width=880&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 1300px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1300px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c740c9ec5cbc729a094729106af17b06c1c98cb4/0_4174_5229_3136/master/5229.jpg?width=880&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 1300px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c740c9ec5cbc729a094729106af17b06c1c98cb4/0_4174_5229_3136/master/5229.jpg?width=800&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 1140px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1140px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c740c9ec5cbc729a094729106af17b06c1c98cb4/0_4174_5229_3136/master/5229.jpg?width=800&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 1140px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c740c9ec5cbc729a094729106af17b06c1c98cb4/0_4174_5229_3136/master/5229.jpg?width=640&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 980px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 980px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c740c9ec5cbc729a094729106af17b06c1c98cb4/0_4174_5229_3136/master/5229.jpg?width=640&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 980px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c740c9ec5cbc729a094729106af17b06c1c98cb4/0_4174_5229_3136/master/5229.jpg?width=620&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 660px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 660px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c740c9ec5cbc729a094729106af17b06c1c98cb4/0_4174_5229_3136/master/5229.jpg?width=620&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 660px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c740c9ec5cbc729a094729106af17b06c1c98cb4/0_4174_5229_3136/master/5229.jpg?width=605&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 480px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 480px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c740c9ec5cbc729a094729106af17b06c1c98cb4/0_4174_5229_3136/master/5229.jpg?width=605&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 480px)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c740c9ec5cbc729a094729106af17b06c1c98cb4/0_4174_5229_3136/master/5229.jpg?width=445&dpr=2&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 320px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 320px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)"/><source srcSet="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c740c9ec5cbc729a094729106af17b06c1c98cb4/0_4174_5229_3136/master/5229.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" media="(min-width: 320px)"/><img alt="Bathers on the shore of Lake Almind, Silkeborg." src="https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c740c9ec5cbc729a094729106af17b06c1c98cb4/0_4174_5229_3136/master/5229.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none" width="445" height="266.88085676037485" loading="lazy" class="dcr-evn1e9"/></picture><a href="#img-4" data-ignore="global-link-styling" aria-hidden="true" tabIndex="-1" class="open-lightbox dcr-13fd1ms"><button data-element-id="d095f689-25b9-4bb0-8b76-c93b53816765" type="button" aria-haspopup="dialog" class="open-lightbox dcr-4tmywn"><svg viewBox="-3 -3 30 30" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" aria-hidden="true"><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M23 8.75V1.5l-.5-.5h-7.25v1.25l4.5.6L14 8.575 15.4 10l5.75-5.725.6 4.475zm-22 6.5v7.25l.475.5h7.25v-1.25l-4.475-.6 5.725-5.775L8.6 14l-5.775 5.725-.575-4.475z"></path></svg><span class="dcr-194i6pr">View image in fullscreen</span></button></a></div><figcaption data-spacefinder-role="inline" class="dcr-1pvqcrw"><span class="dcr-1inf02i"><svg width="18" height="13" viewBox="0 0 18 13"><path d="M18 3.5v8l-1.5 1.5h-15l-1.5-1.5v-8l1.5-1.5h3.5l2-2h4l2 2h3.5l1.5 1.5zm-9 7.5c1.9 0 3.5-1.6 3.5-3.5s-1.6-3.5-3.5-3.5-3.5 1.6-3.5 3.5 1.6 3.5 3.5 3.5z"></path></svg></span><span class="dcr-1qvd3m6">Taking the plunge: bathers on the shore of Lake Almind, Silkeborg.</span> Photograph: Ian Dagnall/Alamy</figcaption></figure><p class="dcr-11uwh1i">“You haven’t got the vibe to be Danish,” my younger son said over our candle-lit dinner that night in the hotel’s lovely restaurant. I was stifling a giggle at the time. The naked, cuddling couple we’d spotted earlier on the naturist beach from a raised walkway, had just walked in. I don’t know why I found it funny to see them here, fully clothed, I just did. Not very Danish of me, I can see that now.</p><figure data-spacefinder-role="inline" data-spacefinder-type="model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.NewsletterSignupBlockElement" class=" dcr-173mewl"><a data-ignore="global-link-styling" href="#EmailSignup-skip-link-12" class="dcr-jzxpee">skip past newsletter promotion</a><aside aria-label="newsletter promotion" class="dcr-av5vqf"><div class="dcr-10et71f"><p class="dcr-1sbse14">Sign up to <span>The Traveller</span></p><div class="dcr-9ypm66"><div class="dcr-ibdtyj"><div class="dcr-1hwoqtr"><svg viewBox="-3 -3 30 30" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" aria-hidden="true"><path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M18.364 2H5.636v5.68H3.43L2 9.29l9.048 7.504h1.904L22 9.289 20.571 7.68h-2.207zm-1.819 5.68v-.946h-9.09v.946zm0-3.787h-9.09v.947h9.09zM2 20.58v-8.994l9.048 6.627h1.904L22 11.586v8.994L20.571 22H3.43zM7.455 9.574h9.09v.947h-9.09z"></path></svg></div><span class="dcr-tx2qx">Free newsletter</span></div></div></div><p class="dcr-1xjndtj">Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays</p><gu-island name="SecureSignup" priority="feature" deferUntil="visible" props="{"newsletterId":"guardian-traveller","successDescription":"Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays"}"><form id="secure-signup-guardian-traveller" class="dcr-kfi215"><label for="P0-2" class="dcr-0"><div class="dcr-1qn103b">Enter your email address </div></label><input type="email" id="P0-2" aria-required="true" aria-invalid="false" aria-describedby required name="email" class="dcr-dpem99"/><button type="submit" aria-live="polite" class="dcr-zll6x8">Sign up</button></form></gu-island><span class="dcr-1eusqlu"><strong>Privacy Notice: </strong>Newsletters may contain info about charities, online ads, and content funded by outside parties. For more information see our <a data-ignore="global-link-styling" href="https://www.theguardian.com/help/privacy-policy" rel="noreferrer" class="dcr-1rjy2q9">Privacy Policy</a>. We use Google reCaptcha to protect our website and the Google <a data-ignore="global-link-styling" href="https://policies.google.com/privacy" rel="noreferrer" class="dcr-1rjy2q9">Privacy Policy</a> and <a data-ignore="global-link-styling" href="https://policies.google.com/terms" rel="noreferrer" class="dcr-1rjy2q9">Terms of Service</a> apply.</span></aside><p id="EmailSignup-skip-link-12" tabIndex="0" aria-label="after newsletter promotion" role="note" class="dcr-jzxpee">after newsletter promotion</p></figure><p class="dcr-11uwh1i">The next day, after a rainy walk in Tisvilde Hegn pine forest, we warmed up with cinnamon buns and hot chocolate in Brød & Vin café in the village. Fortified for the Lake District leg of our trip, we took the ferry from Odden to Aarhus on Jutland’s east coast, and from there drove southwest for a night of fine dining at the Gastronomisk Institut in Ry’s <a href="https://knudhule.dk/" data-link-name="in body link">Knudehule Badehotel</a>. Set on Knudsø Lake, the hotel looks like a hiker’s motel, so our room with four-poster waterbed – it gave massages! – took us by surprise. So did our exceptional dinner, the highlight crab pottage with sour milk and herbal oil, served with a Mosel Riesling.</p><p class="dcr-11uwh1i">Knudhule’s manager, Anders Kalstrup, encouraged us to hike up to Himmelbjerget tower in the nearby town of Silkeborg, the region’s riverside hub. Danish democracy was born at Himmelbjerget: people gathered here to discuss the nation’s future in the 19th century. At 147m, the hill is Denmark’s second highest – diddy compared with the UK’s Lake District, though not in this pancake landscape of wooded highlands – but the lake views are stunning. We stayed at the comfortable, clean <a href="https://www.scandichotels.com/hotels/denmark/silkeborg/scandic-silkeborg" data-link-name="in body link">Scandic Silkeborg</a>– a great base for walkers. Here you’ll find the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tollund_Man" data-link-name="in body link">Tollund Man bog body</a> in the <a href="https://www.visitaarhus.com/aarhus-region/plan-your-trip/museum-silkeborg-gdk604548" data-link-name="in body link">Silkeborg Museum</a>, and Denmark’s oldest paddle steamer, the Hjejlen.</p><p class="dcr-11uwh1i">We scaled different heights with a visit to the circular rooftop installation by Olafur Eliasson at the <a href="https://www.aros.dk/en/" data-link-name="in body link">ARoS Museum</a> in Aarhus the next day, enjoying 360-degree views of this unsung port city. More circles spun their magic down at Aarhus Bay where the Infinite Bridge, a wooden circular fixture straddles beach and sea. We spent our last night in the gloriously eccentric <a href="https://hotelroyal.dk/?lang=en&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA57G5BhDUARIsACgCYnwuXwTs4M1Qx4qXotrOo4sVgKoHNV3pzm2BYiX-qkvJO7BCLiehHv4aAqLpEALw_wcB" data-link-name="in body link">Hotel Royal</a> beside Aarhus Cathedral. The Royal has an old-world lobby, dark and full of frescoes, and Scandinavia’s oldest working elevator with a scissor gate and even a chair to sit on. Just don’t try to strike up conversation.</p><p class="dcr-11uwh1i"><em>More information at <a href="http://visitdenmark.com/" data-link-name="in body link">visitdenmark.com</a></em></p></div></div><gu-island name="SlotBodyEnd" priority="feature" deferUntil="visible" props="{"contentType":"Article","contributionsServiceUrl":"https://contributions.guardianapis.com","idApiUrl":"https://idapi.theguardian.com","isMinuteArticle":false,"isPaidContent":false,"pageId":"travel/2024/nov/17/denmark-tour-culture-countryside-coast","sectionId":"travel","shouldHideReaderRevenue":false,"stage":"PROD","tags":[{"id":"travel/denmark","type":"Keyword","title":"Denmark holidays"},{"id":"travel/railtravel","type":"Keyword","title":"Rail travel"},{"id":"travel/road-trips","type":"Keyword","title":"Road trips"},{"id":"travel/copenhagen","type":"Keyword","title":"Copenhagen holidays"},{"id":"travel/travel","type":"Keyword","title":"Travel"},{"id":"travel/aarhus","type":"Keyword","title":"Aarhus 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